PA SHA ANN HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY THE MARITIME PROVINCES: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AMD HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. With Four Maps and Four Plans. THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. AND CO. PA BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 1884. tom159-5-3,5 V I HARVARD UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1944 Helhert & Greene 1595,3,5 can COPYRIGHT 1876 AND 1883, · BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & co. UNIVERSITY PRESS: Joux WILSON AND Son, CAMBRIDGE. 10 ostoru EASTERN ILROAD TRAVELLERS, Whether for Business or Pleasure, will find this the MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE Between BOSTON And St. John, Halifax, Cape Breton, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, Or any part of the MARITIME PROVINCES. Special Attention is being paid to forming a Through Line between Boston and the Provinces, which shall supply the MAXIMUM OF COMFORT AND SAFETY And consume the MINIMUM OF TIME AND MONEY. With these ends in view, new trains have been added for the Summer of 1883, by which passengers, leaving Boston at 12.30, noon, reach St. John the following morning, and Halifax the following evening; or, leaving Boston at 7.00 P. M., arrival is made at St. John the next afternoon, and Halifax the second morning. West-bound passengers leaving Halifax in the evening, reach St. John at 6.00 A. M., connecting there with the 7.00 A. N. train, REACHING BOSTON AT 10.00 P. M. THE SAME DAY; or, leaving Halifax in the morning and St. John in the evening, passengers reach Boston the following day at 6 30 A. M. Time tables giving latest information will be inailed free at any time upon application. Boston an wie Railroad. FROM THE CREAT SEA-SHORE ROUTE BOSTON PORTLAND, BANGOR, ST. JOHN & HALIFAX, WELLS, KENNEBUNK, OLD ORCHARD, & SCARBORO BEACHES. The Only Line running in Direct Connection with Steamers running the TO * Also the Direct Route to ENTIRE LENGTH OF LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE.. This line makes Direct Connections with the Maine Central, Grand Trank, and Portland & Ogdensburg Railroa is at Portland, and with the Portland, Bangor, & Machias, and International Steamboat Lines, and thus affords The Most Direct Line to the WHITE MOUNTAINS, SEBAGO LAKE, V MOUNT DESERT, Campobello, Machias, Jonesport, Lamoine, and the ? · RANGELEY and MOOSEHEAD LAKES. PARLOR CARS ON ALL TRAINS. Trains leave Boston for Portland at 9 A.M., 12.30, 3.30, and 7 P.M. | BOSTON CITY OFFICE, 280 WASHINGTON STREET. Generai Offices in Station in Haymarket Sq., Boston. " For Information and Circulars apply to D. J. FLANDERS, M. L. WILLIAMS. :/: Gen. Ticket Agent, Boston, . :: Ticket Agent, Portland, F. 'D. GOUKLEY, Travelling Agent. i s Or to any of the Ticket Offices on the Line. *JAMES T. FURBER, Gén: Supt. ars apply to PREFACE. The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans 6"f the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statisties of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are iv PREFACE. incorporated with the accounts of the places made classic by them. The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which are commemorated in "Evangeline" are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- scribed at length in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the .routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any. bona fide cor-: rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. . . , ..i . '.. .. •, ...rv The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant M. F. SWEETSER, Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks, tll Tremont St., Boston. CONTENTS. i L Plan op Toue II. Newfoundland and Larrador . III. Honey and Travelling Expenses IV. Railways and Steamroats. V. Round-Trip Excursions VI. Hotels VII. Language VIII. Climate and Dress 8 IX Pishing 8 f '- X. Miscellaneous Notes 9 I I i NEW BRUNSWICK. route .... General Notes ....... . . . IS L St. John . . ....... . . . . ... 15 2. The Environs of St. John. . . . . . . . . . .22 L Lily Lake. Marsh Road .............. 22 ...: . 2. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge . ... . .. . . .23 ; 8. Carleton ....... . . ........ . . 24 8. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passahaquoddy Bay . 25 4. Grand Manan 28 78. Camporello ........... . .' • . . . 30a 5. St. John to St. .Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaqooddy Bay S0 1. St George. Lake Utopia 82 2. St Andrews. Chameook Mountain 33 i . S. St Stephen. Schoodie Lakes . . 85 .6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 7. St. John to Bangor .37 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River . . . . 39 . 1. Kennebccasis Bay 40 2. Belleisle Bay 42 3. Fredericton 44 4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 9. Washademoak Lake . . ... . . . . . .47 10. Grand Lake 48 1L Fredericton to Woodstock 49 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, ry the St. John River ... 61 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere do Loup . . . .63 vi CONTENTS. KollTE PAGE 1. Toblqne to Bathurst 54 2. The St. John to the Restigouche 66 3. The Madawaska District 67 4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 63 14. St. John to Shediac * 69 15. The Bay of Chaleor and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 1. Chatham to Shippigan 61 2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 3. Bathurst to Caraquette 66 4. Campbellton to St Flavie 69 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 70 1. Quaco. . Sussex Vale '71 2. Albert County.. Moncton to Quebec ...... 72 5. Dorchester. Sackville 73 NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax . . . . . . .78 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia 81 18. St. John to Halifax, ry the Annapolis Valley ... 83 1. Annapolis Royal . . . . 85 2. The Annapolis Valley . . . ... . . . 88 8. Kentville to Chester .90 19. Halifax . . . . . 93 20. The Environs of Halifax • . -. -100 1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant . 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 - L, Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or.-.-.. . . . 103 2. The Basin of Minas '. .104 22. The Land of Evangeline 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 .1. The Clare Settlements 113 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 24. Diory Neck 116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 118 2. Liverpool ;. . . .120 3. Shelburne 121 4. Cape Sable .123 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, ry the Shore Route .... 126 1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 2. Chester to Liverpool 128 27. The Liverpool Lakes . . '. .129 28. Halifax to Tangier . 131 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotla 1SS 80. Sable Island 134 CONTENTS. vii eoute paoe 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 186 S3. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BRETON. General Notes 141 33. The Steait of Canso 142 34. Arichat and Isle Madame . 145 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney. Cape Breton .... 146 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 87. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 88. The Fortress of Louisrouro 154 89. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 1. St Anne's Bay; 158 2. St. Paul's Island 160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 1. Baddeck 162 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 4L Baddeck to Marou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh . . . . . . 167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton ....... 168 1. Port Hood. Mabou. 169 . % Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown . . . . 174 '1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. Pictod to Prince Edward Island .... . . . 175 45. Charlottetown . ....... . . . 175 1. Environs of Charlottetown . . . . . . . . 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tionish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island . . . . . 177 '1. Bustico. Summerside 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to Somas . . .' 182 49. The Maodalen Islands . . 183 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 63. The Environs of St. John's . . . . . . . . 195 1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 195 64. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 viii CONTENTS. BollTE PACK L The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 55. St. John's to Larrador. The Northern Coast or Newfoundland 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 56. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 67. Trinity Bay :208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 69. Placentia Bay . . . . . 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 218 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . '216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle . . 220 LABRADOR. General Notes . . . 223 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions . . . 226 63. The Larrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . . . 227 64. The Larrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 1. The Mingan Islands . . . . . 231 2. The Seven Islands . ....... .' . 282 65. Anticosti 284 PROVINCE OP QUEBEC General Notes .' . . .' 235 66. Pictou to Qoerec. The Coasts of Gasps' . . . . . .238 1. Paspebiac . . . .' . - 240 2. PerceV 242 "3. Gaspe 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence .' 246 1. Father Point Rimouski .260 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles ..»."'. .251 3. St Anne de la Pocatiere. • Llsjet 263 6a Querec . . . . .' 265 1. Durham Terrace . ... . • 269 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica . 261 3. Seminary 202 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. E6tel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 ".6. The Lower Town . . . .271 - 69. The Environs of Querec . 276 . 1. Ileauport. Montmorenci Falls . . . . . . 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 '. 8. .Chateau Bigot Sillery: .... : : . ' . 280 :- 4. Point Levi. Chsndiere Falls . - '.' ;' : '.'--. . 282 CONTENTS. IX route paoe 70. Querec to La Bonne Ste. Anne 283 1. The Falls of St Anno 286 71. The Isle of Orleans 288 72. Querec to Cacouna and the Saouenay River .... 291 L St Paul's Bay 292 2. Murray Bay 294 3. Cacouna 296 73. The Saouenay lit ver 297 1. Tadousac 299 2. Chicoutimi 300 3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St John 301 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 74. Querec to Montreal. The St. Lawbence River .... 805 75. Montreal 809 1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 311 2. The Gesu. St. Patrick's Church 813 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Groat Seminary .... 314 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount RoyaL Victoria Bridge .... 816 76. The Environs of Montreal 818 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au llecollet 818 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga 319 8. Belceil Mt St Anne 820 Index to Localities 821 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions . . . . 332 Index to Quotations I 833 Index to Railways and Steamroats . 834 f List or Authorities Consulted 834 / HARVARD \ UNIVERSITY LIBRARY \944 ^ c:. ^^M^Cch-^M^ c*n I5^s.3,^ COPYBIGHT 1875 AND 1883, Br JAMES E. OSGOOD (£ CO. University Press: John Wilson and Son, Camrridge. - :aster$n !lroab TRAVELLERS, Wlietlier Tor Business or Pleasure, will.find this the MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE Between :BOSTON" And St. John, Halifax, Cape Breton, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, Or any part of the MARITIME PROVINCES. Snechil Attention is being paid to forming a Through Line between Boston and tho Provinces.-wbichshall supply the MAXIMUM Or COMFORT AND SAFETY And consume the MINIMUM OF TIME AND MONEY. With theso ends in view, new trains have been added for .the Summer of 18f:3,by which passengers, leaving Boston at 12.30, noon, reach St. John the following morning, and Halifax the following evening; or, leaving Boston' at 7.00 P. H., arrival is made at St. John the next afternoon, and Halifax" the second morning. West-bound passengers leaving Halifax in the evening, reach St. John at 6.00 A. M., connecting there with the 7.00 a. m. train, REACHING BOSTON AT 10.00 P. M. THE SAME DAY; or,- leaving Halifax in the morning and St. John in the evening, passengers reach Boston the following day at 6 30 A. H.' Time tables giving latest information will be mailed free at any time upon application. '- ' . ,'e upon' . MAPS. 'L Map or the Maritime Provinces. 2. Map of Newfoundland and Larrador. <3. Map of the Acadian Land. * 4. Map of the Saouenay River. • 5. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River. PLANS OP CITIES. 1. St. John: between pages 14 and 15. '2. Halifax: between pages 92 and 93. 3. Querec: between pages 244 and 255., . 4. Montreal: between pages 308 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. —North, Northern, etc. 8. —South, etc. E—East, etc . W. — West, etc . N. B. — New Brunswick. N. a —Nova Scotia. N. F. — Newfoundland. Lab. — Labrador. P. E, L — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. —Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right L —left ft—foot or feet hr. — hour. min. —minute or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. INTRODUCTION. I. Plan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to inclnde as many as pos- sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant. The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, affording rare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the English settlements are quaintly ultra-Anglican (in the secular sense of the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- tume, idiom, and social manners. All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for stndy or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 1 A 2 INTRODUCTION. will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. The following tour would inclnde a glimpse at the chief attractions of the country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite :— Boston to St. John 1} days. St. John .- . . .1 St. John to Annapolis and Halifax . . . . 2 Halifax 1 Halifax to Sydney ....... 1J The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) 4 Quebec 8 Quebec to Boston 1 Failures to connect 3 . 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaqnoddy Bay, the St. John River, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. Either of these side-trips will take from two to four days. If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick; An- napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia; Baddeck, in Cape Breton; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- ing scenery is attractive. II. Newfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from which France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. 3 coast by the steamship lines from Halifax to St. John's, N. F., and thence to Battle Harbor. This route takes a long period of time, though the expense is comparatively light; and the accommodations on the steam- ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, which coasts along the entire S. shore of the island, and runs down to Sydney, C. B., once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- nightly. Sea-Sickness. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the invigoration of the bracing air of the northern sea. Persons who are liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewards are neither as numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against the mal du mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of Labrador. The chief rule, to which the others are but corollaries, is, Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon feel ill at ease in his lungs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting vicissitndes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep on deck as much as possible, warmly wrapped up, and inhaling the salty air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the funnel, where the smell of oil is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. INTRODUCTI0N. i in. Honey and Travelling Expenses. . The tourist will experience great inconvenience from the lack of a uni- form currency in the Provinces. If he carries New-Brunswick money into Nova Scotia or Quebec, it can only be passed at a discount; and the same is true with Nova Scotia or Quebec bills in either of the other Provinces. Dominion notes for small amounts are in circulation. To save frequent discounts, it is best for the tourist to carry notes of the Bank of Montreal, or U. S. money, changing it, in each Province, for the amount of local currency that he will be likely to need there. Respectable shop-keepers in the cities take U. S. money in payment for their goods, valuing it at the rate at which it is quoted on the local exchange. It is, however, more economical and convenient to take' the U. S. money to an exchange office and buy as much of the local currency as will be needed during the so? journ. The shop-keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people who have American money. Canada bills are issued for one and two dollars. American silver is very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 20 to 24 cents in the same city and on the same day, the rate of exchange apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the shop-keeper. Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy discount in New* foundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. ., IV. Railways and Steamboats. The new-born railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to . be had in the second-class cars. Pullman cars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be retained there during the summer seasons. They have been used on the European and North American road for some years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers to take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation INTRODUCTION. 5 on the chief railways, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-class. The latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. The steamships which ply along these coasts afford material for a naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports fleet were captured blockade-runners; the Edgar Stuart was one of the most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was nearly the cause of a battle between the Spanish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall; the M. A. Starr was built for a British gunboat; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. man-of-war; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- ward Island. The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- modations, and the Yarmouth and.North Shore vessels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- portation of. freight, and for successfully encountering rough weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system and have retained the OkL World customs, it. will be found expedient, in many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of money." .As the results thereof, the state.-rooms.will be better cared for, and the meals will be more promptly and generously served.' The Mail-Stages.—rThe remoter districts of the Provinces are visited by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- oquent titles of "Royal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Route," and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three. exceptions, the Provincial stages are.far from corresponding to such ex- pectations; being, in most cases, the rndest. and plainest carriages, some- times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The fares, however, are very low, for this class' of transportation, and a good rate of speed is usually kept up. V. Round-Trip Excursions. f During the summer and early autumn the railway and steamship com- panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained of Lucins Turtle, General Pas- senger Agent of the Eastern R. R., Boston; W. H. Kilby, of the In- ternational Steamship Co., Boston; and Leve & Alden, Passenger Agents, INTRODUCTION. 15. State Street, Boston, and 207 Broadway, New York., Small books are issued every spring by these companies, each giving several hundred combinations of : routes, :with their prices. They may be obtained on application, in person or by, letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privileges of first-class tickets. The following tours, selected from the books of the three companies, will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip from Boston through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. :.':. ... INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. · Halifax Round Trip Excursion. -Boston to St. John by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ;- Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $18. Three Provinces Excursion. - Boston' to St. John by International Steam- ship Co.'s Steamers; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers; Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway ; Pic- tou to Charlottetown by P. E. 1. Steamers ; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. E. I. Railway ; Summerside to Shediac by P. E. I. Steamers; Shediac to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship, Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $ Eastport Excursion. - Boston to Eastport, and return, by International Steam- ship C9,8 Steamer, Fare, $ 7.50. st. John Excursion. - Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Inter- national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, $8.50.ors sous Ens hand must EASTERN RAILROAD.' •*...*;'::' as 'n 19721 W Grand-Fals, N. B., and Return, via Fredericton." '.,ns: 113 Boston to Portlaod...2...1.0.7........ Eastern Railroad. :: :. Portland to Bangor................... Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro'... ..... European and North American 1 Vanceboro' to Woodstock..........., New Brunswick and Canada R’y. ;. . Woodstock to Grand Falle............... New Brunswick Railway.. , Grand Falls to Gibson (opposite Frederic, ton).......... ........New Brunswick Railway.* . Fredericton to Fredericton Junction...... Fredericton Railway.. Fredericton Junction to Vanceboro'......St. John and Maine Railway. Vanceboro to Bangor.................. European and North American Railway. Bangor to Portland .... .. ..........Maine Central Railroad. Portland to Boston..... .......... Eastern Railroad. Rate from Boston.... $ 19. .: I . Halifax, N. S., and Return. Boston to Portland:..................... Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor.... ..............Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro'.......... .......... European and North American R'y. Vanceboro' to Carleton... ............St. John and Maine Railway.. Carleton to St. John.................... Ferry. St. John to Annapolis...... .......Union Line Steamers. Annapolis to Halifax.... ...... Windsor and Annapolis Railway. Return same route. n . Rate from Boston ....$ 21.75. Halifax, N. S., and Return, via Quebec and Montreal. Boston to Portland....! .............. Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor.....................Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro ................... European and North American R’y. Vanceboro' to Carleton ..................St. John and Maine Railway. INTRODUCTION. 7 Carleton to St. John .'.Terry. ^ '- '-'-"' St. John to Halilux -....Intercolonial Railway. Halifax to Quebec Intercolonial Railway, Quebec to Montreal Grand Trunk Railway. Montreal to Portland .Grand Trunk Railway. •-.-'' Purtlarid to Boston '. 1 .'. Eastern Railroad. Ratefroiu Boston §40.50. i The route-book of the Boston & Maine Railroad may be. obtained by- sending to the General Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston. The prices of its excursion-tickets arc about the same as those of the Eastern Railroad. , , '•' VI. Hotel*. The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and thereby the pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly lessened for the sybaritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- tels of the second-class Li $2 a day; and the village inns and country tav- erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. VII. Language. "The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires to visit the more remote districts of .Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more seclnded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole families, not one of wliom can speak English, . ...-. ~ . , In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is nearly unknown. The relation of this, language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible .patois." This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries] ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav. ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of .Quebec speak as pure an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St Germain. 8 INTRODUCTION, This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- clndes science, theology) history, romance, and poetry. It has also numerous newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of the Dominion and Provincial Parliaments, and speeches and pleadings in French are allowable before the Parliaments and courts of Canada. Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has travelled much in Old France. But if the language is unknown to him, he will be subjected to many inconveniences and hardships. Till. Climate and Dress. The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold are much farther apart than in the corresponding latitndes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of southern regions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three months of fog," the people df Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These statements are not borne out by the facts; and, though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern rStates. The meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- boreans; and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in snddenly from the sea and brood over the cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen underclothing should be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. "Anglers in the United States who desire to fish a salmon-river in the Dominion of Canada should club together and apply ifor the fluvial parts INTRODUCTION. 9 of rivers. .... The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised hy the gov- ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river; and if a gen- tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to sir hundred dollars- a year for from three to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's "Fishing in American Waters.") "The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-145; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. "Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower Quebec. "Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. "The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleor, the Sague- nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. IX. Miscellaneous Notes. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- pers. The names of the agents of these Hues have also been given here- 10 INTBODUCTION.: inaf ter, - and further information may be obtained by writing to their addresses..- ''..' - "..'. ---'--. ''-\•' .. ''!' '. tv The custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon the actual laws than upon the mien who execute them. The examination of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods offered them by shop-keepers, since the lavish and unquestioning extravagance of American tourists has somewhat influenced the tone of commercial morality. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest. .1 :.''.:... '! -.'. i - ''- ( -- '•i-^-.v /. -\ '-;..'::- : .'' :'..' ' v... \ - .-. :• • I K0T7TES FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. .1. By Railway. The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines form the usuul mode of ap- proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St, Boston, and run through to Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of the European & North American B. K., which runs E. through the great forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St John. Between Boston and Portland this route. traverses a peculiarly interesting country,' with frequent glimpses of the. sea;, but the-'country between Bangor and St John is almost devoid of attractions. .... - - -_'.. The Boston rf Maine R.R. may also be used as an avenue to the Eastern Provinces, connecting at Portland with the lines to the Eastward, with good accommodations and swift trains, parlor cars, and other first-class accommodations. This route is identical with the preceding, beyond Portland. -.'::..- .-.-.',.-.-,.-. .'' .. .v- - "•' 2. . By Steamship. The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times weekly from June 15 to October 1, Ieaying Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A.M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, which is left at 6 p. m.; and afterwards they run along the Maine coast, calling at Eastport and traversing. Passamaquoddy Bay. Tares, —- from Boston to Easfport, $5; to St. John, $5.50. The Nova Scotia S. S. Co. (.Clements' Line) affords the most convenient route to visit the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western coun- ties of Nova Scotia. Their steamships leave T Wharf, Boston, once a week, for Yarmouth, Lunenburg, and Lockport, giving an exhilarating voyage across the open sea. Another stanch vessel of this line plies reg- ularly between Boston, Digby, and Annapolis (22 hours at sea). 12 FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line de- spatch vessels from Nickerson's Wharf, Boston, every Saturday. After reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso. They call at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at Port Hawkesbury, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other parts of the island of Cape Breton. These vessels connect at Halifax with the railways for Windsor, etc., and the Newfoundland steamships; and Port Hawkesbury with the Bras d'Or steamers; and at Pictou with the steamships of the Quebec S. S. Co., for Quebec and Montreal. 3. Routes by way of Montreal and Quebec. Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the Mon- treal & Boston Short Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Eastern and Grand Trunk Lines. These routes are all described in Osgood's New England: a Handbook for Travellers. The most picturesque route from Quebec to the Maritime Provinces is by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company, which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec and Nova Scotia, connecting with the local lines of travel. The Intercolonial Railway extends around from Quebec to St. John'and Halifax, but runs through a desolate region.* 1. .l ent . * min . r .!! " i sii!... 4. Newfoundland. vyspori • Passengers bound for the remoter East, for Newfoundland or Labrador, will find the best' accommodations on the steamships of the Allan Line, which run from Halifax and Baltimore to St. John's, N. F. (and thence to Liverpool, etc.). The smaller vessels of the Cromwell Line (from New York) and the Acadian Line (from Montreal) also run to St. John's. Further particulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days on which they depart for Boston, etc., may be found in their advertise- ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The main question for the summer tourist will naturally be whether he shall go eastward by rail or by a short sea-voyage. The Editor has travelled on each of the above-mentioned lines (with one exception) and on some of . them several times, and has found them well equipped and comfortable. >-; MARITIME-PR0VINCES HANDB00K. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the. £., and Nova Scotia and the. Bay of Fundy on the S.- It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. .and E. shores, and is broken by. many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140;M. long by 30'— 60 M. wide; .the latter being 90 M. long by 10-25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great bays and in the Gulf are of immense value, employing many, thousand men, and attracting large American fleets., They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and Imvn been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners.'' During the past 60 years 6,000 vessels have Jreen built in this Province,;valued at nearly $80,000,000. The lumber business js conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product (amounts to .$. 4,000,000 a year.' :•-•;', -:-::. :':.:;;: The'country is/generally,level,.and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. :There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous character.: The interior is traversed :by the rivers St. John,. Restigonche, Miramicbi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. ; :The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese; but farming operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The.mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the winter, 17^°; spring, 87^*; summer, 68°; autumn, 44§°. The thermom- " - NEW BRUNSWICK. eter ranges between —22° and 87° as the extremes marked during the past ten years. The present domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two distinct nations, of Indians., The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Algon- quin' race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were powerful and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetes were from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They were less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint mythological legends. **e! :: This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie' (or Acadia), which was granted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, in 1603. Dé Monts explored the St. John River, and planted an ephemeral colony on the St. Croix, in'1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John River was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and"Charnisay.Olivér Cromwell sent án' expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but it was 'restored to Fránce by Charles II. in 1670. After the war of 1689- -97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its W. boundary was located at the St. George River, W. of Peñobscot Bay. *Meantime the shores'ðf the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set., tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New Englanders invaded the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia" was ceded to England. 41. 1421 * The Frenchi limited the cession to Nova Scotial and fortified the line of the Missiguash River; to protect the domains to the N. In 1655' a naval expedition from Boston took'tlíese forts, and also the post at St. John; and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. .?? » The Americans måde several attacks on northern Acadia' during the Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country by the British fleets at 'Halifax.7+ At the close of the war imany thousands of American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, having been previously dependent oñi Nova Scotiaz' and in 1788 the capi- tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now commenced, and the forests began to give 'tay before the lumbermen. In 1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troops on account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent affair." In 1865 New Brunswick refused, by a popular vote, to enter the Dominion of Canada; but it accepted the plan the next year, and became à part of the Dominion in 1867:19:11 mo* m9mfoni 2 29 Tin Out -The population of New Brunswick was 74,176 in 1824, 154,000 in 11840, 285,777 in 1871, and 321;233 in 1881.1360TE : 17 1 1 ST. JOHN. RoiUel. 15 . . 1. St. John. Arrival from the Sea.— Soon after passing Negro TTead, the steamer runs In by Partridge Isiand, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the upland are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam foghorn and the light- house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Ntgrotown Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed St. Jnde's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Mili- tary Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. . Hotels.—The Hotel Duflerin, at the corner of Charlotte St. and King Square, is the best ($2.50 aday). The New Victoria is a good hotel, on Princess St., near Germain St., The Park Hotel is on the N..E. side of King's Square, and several smaller houses of Varying grades are in the same vicinity. The Waverley' is on KittgSt., and Is an old-fashioned British public-house. ' • '' ''' '..-•• '.•'-'• -- Amusements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St., near Duke St. The Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the ball of the Mechanies- Institute; near the head of Germain St. ;,, Reading-Rooms'—The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlotte St.,'near King Square; open from 9 a. m. until 10 p.m. The Mechanies' Institute, near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety. of British papers on file. '' Carriages« — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each additional one. For each half-hour, 50c:' If the river is crossed the passenger pay's the toll, which Is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. Omnibuses run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the' river steamboat-Iines,'at Indian town'. . Railways. - - The St. John and Maine Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M., connecting there with .the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. from fit. John. The same road also has a branch to Frederic ton. The Intercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec.' -•''" Steamships«—The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally. between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The International Steamship. Com- pany despatch their sea-worthy vessels from St: John for Boston;-touching at East- port and Portland, and connecting with steamers for St. Andrews, St. Stephen, Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Feb. they leave St. John on Thursdays; from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to Jan , they leave on Mondays and Thurs- days ; and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Sail- ing time, 8 a.m. Fare to Boston, 9 5.50. Time, St. John to East port, 4 hn*.; to Portland,'19 hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of Fundy to Dighy and Annapolis several times weekly, at 8 a.m., connecting at An- napolis with the railway for Halifax. During some seasons, steamers run from St. John to Yarmouth, to the Basin of Minas (Parrsboro' and Windsor), and to St. Andrews. and St. Stephen, The railway to St. Stephen la finished. St. John River Lilies. —The steamers of the Union Line leave Indian town daily at 9 a. m , for Fredericton and the intermediate landings Three times a week there Is a night-boat, leaving at 5 p. m., for Fredericton and the intermediate land-'. ings. The Fawn leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. m , for Gagetown and Grand Lake. Boats to the Washademoak Lake are uncertain. The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 9.80 p.m.' Fare, 3 c. ; for one-horse carriages, 9c. ; for two-horse carriages, 15 c. 16 Route 1. ST,'JOHN. St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of Canada," and claims the prond position of the fourth port of the British Empire, next after London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The city has 20,127 inhabitants (census of 1881), and the contiguous city of Portland has 15,227 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets liave been cut at great expense; and the plan of the streets is regular, inclnding a succession of rectangular squares. The general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy, owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of paint. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by tho high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John Kiver. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleasing marine views. The fire department has 3 steam-engines, but is seldom called into service. There are 41 churches in St. John and Portland, of which the Church of England claims prece- dence in point of numbers. There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekly papers. King Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal'shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most. part, left to hold themselves np on the mnddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shops, and several banks and hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt district. King Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, stndded with trees, ami adorned in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was adorned with a pretentious trinmphal arch, erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, ami afterwards utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. AV. of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasinm, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 F. m., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $ 38,000, and ST. JOHN. Route 1. 17 was dedicated in 1S72, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying-Ground, con- taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church extends from Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- cess St., and is the finest church-building in the Maritime Provinces, being massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest of the hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Royal Arms from Trinity Church, New York, brought here by the Loyalists in 1783. This venerable building was destroyed in the great fire of 1877. Not far from Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its printing-office and book-store. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, — a carelessly kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A short dis- tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institu- tion, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in tjie Prov- ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, with a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whoso officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to Hie r. The * Post-Office is an elegant building of gray sandstone, at the corner of Princess St; opposite which is the new City Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- ter sandstone, costing $ 250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- drum. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- signal station which receives warnings from "Old Probabilities" at Wash 1.8 Route IK ST.: JOHN.? ington.. The. street ends at Reed's Point, the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. . At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of tho Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- terian); and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- chanies' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2£ to 6 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station in the Valley. The Roman Catholic »Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich^ The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose; Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft long, and 110 ft. wide at;the' transepts. The Bishop's Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St.' On the other side of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice^ over the Cathedral portal adjacent'to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the' Last'Sripper (after Leonardo Da Vinci'spainting at Milan). '"-' From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge,'at the head of Courtena'y Bay. By ascending' Cliff St. for a short distance, a "point may be reached from which are seen the Valley,' with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Feed's Castle is prominent. •- .- The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building" with'one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John Eiver flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature.' .. . -. ST. JOHN. Route 1. 19 That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley is St. Paul's Church (Kpisconal), a graceful wooden edifice with transepts, a clcrc-story, and a tail spire. The windows arc of stained glass. The brick church of St. Stephen and the wiiite Zion Church (Reformed Kpi-':opal) are also situated in the Valley, and the road to Lily Lake di- verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the K., 'm the City Iload, is the Skating JUnk, a round wooden building, 100 It. in diameter, covered with a domed roof. This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from one of the directors. The site of St. John was the Menagires of ancient Mteniae tradition, where the divine Glooscap once had his home. Hence, during Ilia absence, his attendants were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who tied with them to Grand Man an, Cape It re ton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Glooscap, who rode much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Pacing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, where lie assumed such a stature that the clonds rolled about bis head. The cvil- doing wizard was soou found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were set five. The site of St. John was discovered by Cham plain and De Monts, ou St. John's Day (June 24), 1004, but was not occupied for 30 years after. Clande de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earliest of the French adven- turers in this region, and. received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Kazilly, and the young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Clande). Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape lire ton. Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'AuU nay Charuisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XHI. finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 1034, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1043 this stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ship Qtmerit, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor with 11l l Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. "On the one hand.it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained in chap. xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour; while, on the other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites agtiinst the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehorain against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present,and did not reprove the King of Jndah.!' But when they had assured themselves that it would bo allowable fur thuni to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- nay \s forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 03 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. Some mouths later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side (the fort was in Carletou, near Navy Island). Alter three days of fighting a treach- erous Swiss scotry admitted the enemy into the works; and even then Madame La Tour led her troops eo gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 20 Route 2. ST. JOHN. terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came bock to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696. while the Chevalier de Villebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts Font three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'Ibervillc's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Prqfond, and eoou lay dis- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Prqfond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouilian; but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by the Indians, "Catholies and allies of France." In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort 11 owe In 1775 a naval expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- dering and bombarding the village. May 18,1783, a British fleet arrived m the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled "United Empire Loyalists," Americans who were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year. and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church was founded; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839 - 42) the citizens were all eurolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was by their closing for'ed to draw heavily on the American Provinces. The last his- toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trt.ni affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts of peace and industry. "Here is picturesque St. John, with Its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- ments of the territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and solid English culture; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for a day, says it Is naught." (Warner's Baddeck.) The great exodus to the United States has recently seriously reduced the popula- tion of St. John, and all the Etstcrn Provinces. In October, 1883, St. John cele- brates its tei>'*""«al anniversary, by a grand Dominiou-of-Canada Exhibition. ST. JOHN. RouU 1. 21 "To the winds give our bannerl Bear liomeward again!*' Cried the Lord of Acadia, Cried Charles of Estienne; Front the prow of hia shallop He gazed, us the sun. From its bed in the ocean. Streamed up the St. John. Oer the blue western watera 'That shallop had passed. Where the mists of Penobscot Clung damp on her mast. St. Savior had looked On the heretic sail. As the songs of the Huguenot (lose on the gale. The pale, ghostly fathers Remembered her well. And had cursed her while passing, With taper and bell. But the men of Mon began, Of Papists abhorred. Had welcomed and feasted The heretic Lord. 'They had loaded his shallop With dun-fish and ball, "With stores for hia larder. And steel for hia wall. Pemeq-iid, from her bastions And turrets of atone. Had welcomed hia coming; With banner and gun. And the prayers of the eldera Mad followed his way, As homeward he glided Down Pentecost Iiav. O.well sped La Tonr I For, in peril and pain, His lady kept watch For his coming again. O'er the Isle of the Pheasant The morning sun shone. On the plane-trees which shaded The shores of St. John. "Now why from yon battlements: Speaks not my love? Why waves there no banner My fortress above?" Dark and wild, from his deck St. Estienne gazed about, On fire-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt' From the low shattered walla Which the flame had o'errun, There floated no banner. There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priest of Rome, In hia cloak and his hood. Withthe bound of a lion La Tour sprang to land. On the throat of the Papist He fastened his hand. "Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sin I What wolf has been prowling My castle within?" From the grasp of the soldier 1 he Jesuit broke. Half In scorn, half in sorrow. He smiled as he spoke: St. John. 1647. "No wolf, Lord of Estienne, Has ravaged thy hall. But thy red-handed rival. With fire, steel, and baJll On an errand of mercy I hithcrward came. While the walls of thv castle Yet apouted with flame. "Pentagoet s dark vessels Were moored in the bay. Grim sea-lions, roaring Alond for their preyi" "But what of my lady?" Cried Charles of Estienne. "On the shot-crumbled turret Thy lady was seen: "Half veiled in the smoke-clond, Iler hand grasped thy pennon, while her dark tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon 1 But woe to the heretic, Evermore woe! When the son of the church And the cross is his foel "In the track of the shell. In the path of the ball, Pentagoet swept over The breach of the wall! Steel to steel, gun to gun, One moment, — and then Alone stood the victor. Alone with his men I "Of its sturdy defenders, Thy lady alone Saw the cross-blazoned banner Float over St. John." "Let the dastard look to it I** Cried fiery Estienne, "Were D Aulnay King Louis, I d free her again 1" "Alas for thy lady 1 No service from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord hath set free: Nine days, in stern silence, Her thraldom she bore. But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her door I" As if snddenly smitten. La Tour staggered back; His hand grasped his sword-hilt, His forehead grew black. He sprang on the deck Of his shallop again. "W.c cruisc now for vengeance I Give way l " cried Estienne. "Massachusetts shall hear Of the Huguenot s wrong. And from island and crcekside Her fishers shall throng! Pentagoet shall rue What his Papists have done. When his palisades echo The Puritan's gun!" O, the loveliest of heavens Hung tenderly o er him. There were waves in the sunshine. And green isles before him: But a pale hand was beckoning The Huguenot on; And in hlackness and ashes Behind was St. John: John G. Whittikk. 22 Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 2. The Environs of St. John. * Lily Lako is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- ing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the laUe, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky banks. The environs are thickly stndded with clumps of arbor-vitas and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. The Marsh Road is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At lj M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. 1J M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three- Mile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mile course which is much used for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - i M. farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryburn Howe, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister' s Face on the farther shore. Pass- ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and pienic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, inclnding the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route t. 23 city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is ?- 4 M. be- yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. "An clerated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- rowest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suIT.t in comparison with many cither of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond."—Prof. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than themuch- Tisited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenny Bay. The Poor House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which inclndes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but pretty forest-pond. The * Suspension Bridge is about \ M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by omnibuses, passing through the city of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on cither side. The stream ru6hes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further dlsturbei by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 24 Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN.' ft., and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost $ 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and fendal air to the land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The * view from this point is broad and beautiful, inclnding St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gnt. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hilraiear the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jnde's Episcopal Church. The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Ked Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sca-wced and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamous plants are found. The Mahogany1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Manawagonish, applied to the neighboring buy, CAMPOBELLO. Route S. 25 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Passamaquoddy Bay. The commodious vessels of the International Steamship Company leave the Reed's Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday. Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 a. m., and reach Eastport (60 M. distant) a little alter noon. A connection is made there with a smaller steamboat, which ascends Passamaquoddy Bay and tho St. Croix River to St. Andrews and St Stephen. The Grand Southern Railway runs from St. John to St. Stephen, 86 M. W., and it is hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to Ban- gor, crossing the frontier at Calais, and running around through the coast counties. It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with running in a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled coast. The localities which it approaches are more particularly described on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. Stations. — St. John to Spruce Lake 7 M ; Musquash, 9; Lancaster, 16; Lepreaux, 24; New River, 29; Peunfield, 30; St. George, 47; Bonny River, 58; Dyer's, 62; Oak Bay, 67; St. Stephen, 82. After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, and soon passes Split Rock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner: "A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- house, a rnde cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests,— this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused by the sndden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clonds. Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. 2 EASTPORT. Route 3. 27 In 1684 the Passatnaquoddy islands were granted by the King of France to Jean Sarreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French Bettlers about Passa- maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jrrsey, 48, and Gosport, 32. They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigation, then returned and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. They visited Moose Island and the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fair wind arose Tu 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on the St. John liiver; and in 17(10 the tribes sued for peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass ) visited the bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. During the War of the Involution the Passaniaquoddy Indians were loyal to the United States, and declined nil offers from the British agents. The boundary questiou began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier; but Massachusetts, supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaginidavic was the true St. Croix; while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain; but Moose, Dndley, and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan wore raised, and a detachment of troops was sta- tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms,and the hostile fleet, headed by the tiami- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The river-steamboat, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Sybaik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund- from the Republic. They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons; and the pictu- resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes, since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the Schoodic Lakes. The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie, '' pollock- place ." Others say that Quoddy means ''pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanli^ a term which signifies "it goes up into the open field." 28 Route 4. GRAND MANAN. As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., ure the highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the boat rounds in at St Andrews. St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 4. Grand Manan. This "paradise of cliffs" is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reaclied from Eastport (during fair winds), with which it has a mail communication. The summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs; and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple tare may there be obtained for $ 4 - 7 a week. "As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. "As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home." (Ds Costa.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their dar- ing and expertness in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England); while the advantages. of free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, "Happy Mananites, who, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea!" The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the great cliffs on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usually pertains to small and Insulated maritime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- ican marine painters, who find excellent stndies in its picturesque cliffs and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian GRAND MANAN. Routed 29 auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland and the coast of Maine. Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Andu- bon stndied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal• Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the J., inclnding the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its rnde resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest-path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7 - 8 M. long, and is firm and well-made. 14 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Spragne'i Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- turesque costumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para-. phemalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-TaU Bead is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. "Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 30 Routes, grand manan. beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- tween are the blue sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lard Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Gove). Beyond this point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop's Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand'Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3-400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- mantic scenery about Dark Cove; near which is Money Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Passa- maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of Long's Eddy. "When the cliff Is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, with oil the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and reach, until he snddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his dinner." (De Costa.) "Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, Is the very throne of the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beau- tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noale ) Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which Fcems to have passed away from these shores: "It is even asserted that at % of a league off Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- ered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de'llazilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." "But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary wlldness and grandeur is to be found only In the 'Great (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern Head. Landing from the Eastport steamer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown road skirts along the E. shore for the most part, showing us in succession the half-dozen peaceful fishing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat churches and their remarkably handsome and commodious scboolhouses. After 3 hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at 'Harvey's,' a very small but roost home- like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that leads to the' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For the first i M. the path takes us across elevated pasture-land, showing us the open sea upon three sides. For another quarter it plunges into a dense forest, and presently descends to the edge of the water, which it reaches at a little stony level known as 'Southern Head Beach.' Crossing this, and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until at the end of a short mile we emerge from the shrubbery to find ourselves on the top of 'Hay Point,' gazing perpendicularly down at the sea, which dashes, at the CAMPOBELLO. RouU 78. 30 a base of the cliff over which we lean, some 250 feet below! A few rods further on, and we come to the new Southern I lead Lighthouse. From hence for a mile fur- ther we pace along the deeply indented edge of this dizzy height, as upou a lofty esplanade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild screams of hun- dreds of circling sea-gulls, until at last we arrive opposite the ' Old Maid-'" A stanch steamboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- necting with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and crossing" to the island in 2 hrs. There is a good pier at Flagg's Cove (North Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near North Head (the Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly grown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cable runs hence to Eastport. There are 5 telegraph-offices on the island. There are also several livery stables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed here. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 78. Campobello. Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. Tho Owen is an aesthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, devoted to office, billiard-room. kitchen, and dining-room, and the main building, a huge modem erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the old mansion, by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are plunsantly laid out, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial. Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's hawthorn hedges. The Tyn-y-Coedd (House in the Wood) is another large summer-hotel, per- taining to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of families, being quieter and more seclnded than the Owen. Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, lying off the Bay of Fundy, and pertaining to the Province of New Brunswick. It has 1,160 inhabi- tants, most of whom live in two villages, — Wehkpool, on a pretty harbor to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently burned their houses and schooners, but "were finally obliged to allow them to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended by new highways opened by the Campobello Company, and afford beauti- ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evergreen forests, and out on sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens; but the chief source of income is the fishing business. The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its imported vicar praying for the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the usual English intonation; its great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with the three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- sented by Sister Portia, Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other church on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's Birthday and Dominion Day (July 1). Glen Severn (the ancient Herring Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer 30 b Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. shore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous lake of fresh water. Friar's Head, within 1£ M. of the Owen, is a rocky pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lighthouses at the ends of the island, and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west- ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties-of Passamaquodd Ba}f, around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. Campobello, the ancient Passamaqitfuldy Island, was granted by the British Crown to Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his heirs, of a noble naval family, occupied the domain for more than a hundred years. The Admiral built a quarter-deck over the rocks, on which he used to promenade in full uniform. lie was buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little Episcopal church, where his descendants have since followed him. There are num- berless quaint legends of the old regime hero; of Sir Robert Peel's visit, and the advent of British frigates; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other marvels. After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-law, Captain ttobinson, of the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and setcled upon the island. There was great excitement here in 1866, when many armed Irish patriots came to Eastport. apparently with a design of invading Campobello. and twisting the tail of the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitants; British frig- ates and American cutters cruised in the adjacent waters; St. Andrews and St. Stephen were garrisoned by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport with a detachment of United States regulars. The last of the Owens moved to Eng- land, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobello was purchased by a syndicate of Boston and New York capitalists, to be made into a summer-resort. Besides the great hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being erected here by well-known families from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. The new development of this remote island as a summer-resort has been rapid and secure, and already Campobello bids fair to become a formidable rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of view, although its scenery is in almost every way inferior. The novel and original architecture and equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and surroundings combine with the insular and provincial quaintnesses of the islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. 32 Route 5. ST. GEORGE. St. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft wide, and falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- brated for its production of a fine granite of a rose-red color which receives a high polish, and is extensively used for ornamental columns and monu- ments. It is pronounced by competent jndges to be superior to the Scotch granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite ''), and is beautifully tinted. The construction of the Grand Southern Railway affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. "The Tillage, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render this part of the country peculiarly picturesque; indeed, the neighborhood of St. George, the Digdeguash, Chameook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of the finest scenery *n America." (Dr. Gesner.) Lake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression, along whose slopes ledges of red grrnite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St George, and 6 M. long, and connects with the Magaguadavic River 3 M. above the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, which is well bordered by magnificent forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and anglers en route to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient and mysterious temple, all traces of which 'have now passed away. Here also was found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St- John. For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft- long. The lake abounds in silvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River arc the favorite haunts of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, . and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- tlers, and will soon become extinct in this district. The Magagu&davic River (an Indian name meaning "The River of the Hills ") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N W\, within a short portage of the Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. J'-hn. Traversing the great Lake of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole" Much of its lower valley is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and Magaguadavic settlements. After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the ST. ANDREWS. Route 5. 33 estuaries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge of the Chameook Mt. .,.**. i— St Andrews (Central Exchange, $ 1.50 a day), the capital of Charlotte County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix River which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few quiet 'old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was founded about a centurv ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for Great Brilain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity Treatv, and for manv years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of the pleasant scenery and the 'facilities for boating, fishing, and excur- sions. St. Andrews was once strongly fortified by the British Government, and some remains of these works still exist. It is hoped that the Canadian Pacific Railway, which is now building across Maine, from I-ake Megan- tic by Moosehcad, will make its chief winter-port here. Fogs are very rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs are lovely. The town is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- ord office, and marine hospital; and there are a number of neat private residences, inclnding that of Sir Leonard- Tilley, K. C. B., Finance Min- ister of the Dominion. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argyll," a large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened in 1881 as a summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are uurivalled. Trains of the Now Brunswick Kail way run to and from St. Andrews, connecting with trains for Woodstock, Houlton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland, and Boston. The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 M. N. of St. Andrew, and its base is reached by-a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the view, which inclndes "the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvins, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village of Robbinston is seen, on the American shore. On the r. the bold bluffs of 34 Route 5. ST. CROIX RIVER. Cliaracook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses are seen along the shores. 5 -6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side of Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay Short* In the year 1604 Henri IV.of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Moots, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local Indian word. De Mouts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- pressed vagabonds, gentlcmeu-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy. the voyagers ascended the l'assamaquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the bouses of De Monts and Cham plain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. "It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to them that never were there; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by (from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the sides; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair. and admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to seek out his seat, and find out a land that might like him. Which be having done, had no need to sojourn there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and hoary snowy father being come, that is to say, Winter, then they were forced to keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our men had three special discommodities in this island: want of wood (for that which was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that bad lodged them- selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them much more than of infidels." (Lescarrot's NouvelU France.) In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So,after longsearchingamong the bushes and jungle, the boundary-commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross,—the upright arm being formed by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow ST. STEPHEN. Route 5. 35 channel, between sterile shores. 2-8 M. above is the antiquated marine hamlet called The Ledge (L bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- ent on the sea for their living. 4 M. above this point the steamer reaches her dock ot St. Stephen. St. Stephen (Queen Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial town, situated at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city of Calais. The population is about 5,000, with 6 churches, 1 newspaper, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will probablv be devoted to general manufacturing purposes after the lumber supply begins to fail. A covered bridge connects St. Stephen with Calais (The American House; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-officers, St. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. The New Brunswick & Canada Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodic Lakes by railway, and with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. W. (fare, S 7.50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam- boat leaves Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi-weekly in winter, for Eastporc, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and Boston (see also Route 3, and Osgood's New England). Fares, Calais to Portland, $4.50; to Boston, by water, $ 5.50; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. The Schoodic Lakes. A railway runs 21 M. N. W. from Calais to Lewey's Island (2 inns), in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and picturesque Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The Grand Lake Stream is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. ing. and to guide their coarse from lake to lake. There is a large village of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Big Lake. A two hours' portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and beautiful forest-sea, with gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transparent waters. The cry of the loon is often heard here, and a few bear and deer still lurk along the shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller and yet more remote lakes may be entered; and portages conduct thence to the navigable tributaries of the Machias and Penobscot Rivers. "One of the most picturesque portions of the western Schoodic region is Grand Lake. This noble sheet of water is broken here and there by islets, and surrounded, even to the water's edge, with forests of pine and hard wood, whilst its bottom is covered with granitic bowlders, which, in combination with drift, are spread iar and wide among the arboreal vegetation around." "While the fog is lifting from Schoodic Lake, And the white trout are leaping for flies, It '■ exciting sport those beauties to take. Jogging the nerves and feasting the eyes." Gkkio C. Scott. 6. St Andrews and St Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. By the New Brunswick & Canada Railway. Fare from St. Stephen to Wood- stock, $ 2.90. Distances. — St. Andrews to Chameook, 6 M.; Bartlett's. 11; Waweig, 13; Roix Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; Rolling Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 27 (St. Stephen to Watt Junction, 19); Lawrence, 29; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam Junction, 43; Deer Lake, 59; Canterbury, 65; Eel River, 75; Wickham, 80; Debeo Junction, 90 (Houlton, 98); Hodgdou, 98; Woodstock, 101. The country traversed by this line is one of the most irredeemably des- olate regions in North America. The view from the car-windows pre- sents a continual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks. The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in this gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest occupants; and Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with which she rndely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- Time inviting immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains in language which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism; but in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: "Excepting the intervales of the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the general quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but pas- turage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of soft-wood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hard- wood districts. For a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Then the great mass of Chameook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and rounded summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay (see page 84). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash ST. JOHN TO BANGOR. Route 7. 37 Biver, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to lie Adam Junction, where it intersects the European & North American Railway (page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor and from St. John. The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- bury (small inn), the centre of extensive operations in lumber. Running N. VV. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at Debec Junction the passengor changes for Woodstock. A train runs thence 8 M. N. VV. to Houlton (Snell House, BuzzeU House), the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine (see Osgood's Neva England, Route 50). The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South Brook, and in about 6 M. emerges on the highlands above the valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 7. St John to Bangor. By the St. John & Maine Railway in 10-12 hra. Distances. — St. John; Carleton, \ M.; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand Bay, 12; Westfleld, 16; Nerepis, 20; WeUford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaui, 33; Euniskillen, 36; Hoyt, 39; Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic, 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 91; Vanccboro', 92; Jackson lirook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 150; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbnsh, 182; Costigan, 187; Milford, 192; Oldtown,193; Great Works 194; Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin Mills, 198; Veazie, 201; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 233; Waterville, 260; Augusta, 281; Brunswick, 315; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Newburyport, 415; Bos- ton, 451.) The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St John to Carleton, and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher grades broad and pleasing views over the city, the harbor, and the Bay of Fundy. It soon reaches Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes,—Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 38 Route 7. CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up the valley of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford (small inn). The country now grows very tame and uninteresting, as the Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Clarendon Set- tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gas- pereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 M. S. W., among the highlands, a seclnded sheet of water about 5 M. long, abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train passes the prosperous village of Blissville; and at Fredericton Junction a connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 M. N. Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads S. 7-8 M. from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 M. long and 8 - 4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, "near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to the N. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the sta- tion), where it intersects the New Brunswick and Canada Railway (see Route 6). 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at Vanceboro' (Chiputneticoolc House). This is the station whence the beau- tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Chlputnetlcook Lakes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, and are from % to 10 M. Id width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of the multitnde of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which . shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masoury. "Uni- versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 65 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- ST. JOHN RIVER. Route 8. 39 wamkeag River. The station of Mattawamkeag is at the confluence of the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivers; and the railway from thence follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island just above Oldtown is the homo of the Tarratine Indians, formerly the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at first well-dis- posed towards the colonists, but after a scries of wrongs and insults they took up arms in 167S, and inflicted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. Afterdestroying the fortress of Pein- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Cast in, they remained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of $ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom are half-breeds. Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- ton, see Osgood's New England. 8. St. John to Fredericton.— The St. John River. The steamers David JFestonand Star, of the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- town) at 9 a. m. daily. See also Routes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hndson River. Dinner is served on board J and Fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday there is a night-beat, leaving St. John at 6 p. m. ; and returning from Fredericton at 4. i-\ u., reaching St- John at 11 p. m. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Relleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy sunnner-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it "the Rhine or America," and another prefers it to the Hndson. This is wide exaggeration; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances.—(The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M.; Westficld, 17; Greenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Bclleisle Bay), 29; Wickham, 32: Hampstead, 36; Otuabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper Gagetown, 58; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75; Glasier's, 81; Fredericton, 80. Fares. — St. John to Fredericton, SI. 40 Route 8. KENNEBECASIS BAY. This river was called Looshtoolc (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and Ouangondie by the Micmaes. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviere de la Grande Bate. But no exam- ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Monts and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to And by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. "The extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration.'' At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on Its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Chandiere; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch them in the Chandiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being '' the most finely watered country in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E-, and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the great basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Bellcisle and Kennebecasis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. E., and afford good facilities for inland navigation- The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chalcur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). Immediately after leaving the dock at St John a fine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful suspension-bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boar's Head, a picturesque rocky promon- tory, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. abov0 Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open ing on the 1. rear. The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Valley, and through South Bay into Manawagonish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quite recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills was once unbroken and served to divert the stream. LONG REACH. Route 8. 41 On the banks of the placid Eennebecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Beaver, "feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that his brother was vulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root; and he had told Mal- sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass that Malsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-c-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- bition); wherefore with hl.i arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap arose unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- quash say, '' Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get thee hence, thou with a tail like a file; what need hast thou of pigeon's wings f" and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy forest; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. "And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then'asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, '' No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said: "Go your ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo! their feet became rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond the days of men, but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the I., and on the r. is the large island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are passed on the r.; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis River. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the Long Beach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the Devits Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 42 Route 8. BELLEISLE BAY. for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary is nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on ther., beyond which the bay extends to the N. E. for 12 - 14 M., with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of 5 - 6 M. for 30 M., between the Kennebecasis Bay and river on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. XV. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Pickwaakert, occu- pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The village is most easily reached from Rothesay (see page 22). 'Pennant's Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly opposite Long Point village); from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 4 M. beyond is Springfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the 'Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the head of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4 - B M. above Belleisle Bay Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wickham. A short distance beyond, on tire W. bank, is Ilamp- stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Washademoak Lake (see Route 9). "This part of the Province, inclnding the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is Intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. Itis the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- point for a broad tract of farming-country. After leaving this point, the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg- Eiver. About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers.,' It was provided MAUGEKVILLE. Route 8. 43 with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel" 6 paces square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition sent out by Oliver Cromwell; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by "a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemaeg was granted by the French Crown to the ancient Breton family of Damour des Chaffour. In 1686 it was occupied by the seignorial family, and in 1(J98 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis Uc Vandreuil, who had 116 colonists in the domain of Jcmseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, under the command of M. de Villcbon; and after the removal of the seat of govern- ment to Fort Nashwaak (Frcdericton), the Jcmseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of British attack,and was finally abandoned. About the .year 1776, 600 Indian warriors gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- peased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River Is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10$. Beyond this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the seat of the Sheffield Academy. "The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and Water- borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, inclnding the three noble islands opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable for 22 M. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In Way, 1776, the inhabitants of Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces were justified in re- sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and money should be raised for the American service: saying also, " we arc Ready with our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutious were signed by all but 12 of the people; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, ascended the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was joined by nearly 50 men. Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great cemeteries has recently been found here When the hostile tribes concentrated on the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate- the river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near the mouth of the Oromocto, and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. "The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings; and, from the constant change of posi- tion, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords on interesting 44 Route 8. FREDERICTON. spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the cur- rent. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack,all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- face of the stream and Eend it rippling to the shore. In the midst of this landscape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery." (Gesner.) Fredericton. Hotels. Barker House, Queen St., $2aday; Queen'sHotel, QueenSt., $ 2aday. Stages leave tri-weekly for Woodstock (62 M.; fare, $ 2.50) ; and tri-weekly for Boiestown and the Miramichi (105 AX. ; fare, SO). Railways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in about 64 M. : fare, 82. The New Brunswick Railway from Gibsou (across the river) to Woodstock, Aroostook, and Edmundston, 176 M. Fare to Woodstock, $ 1.7o (page 50). . Steamboats* Daily to St. John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, $ 1.50. In the summer there are occasional night-boats, leaving Fredericton at 4 p. m. When the river has enough water, steamboats sometimes run from Fredericton, 65-70 M. N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Fails. Ferry-steamers cross to St. Mary's at frequent intervals. Fredericton, the capital of the Province of New Brunswick, is a small city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1882 it had 6,006 inhabitants, with five newspapers and a bank. It is prob- ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with line old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle-" ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river. At its W. end is the Government Souse, a plain and spa- cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Building, a handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative Council, and Supreme Court (with its law library). The Legislative Library, in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, inclnd- "ing Louis Philippe's copy of Andubon's " Birds" (open during session, and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city," with an important British and West-Indian trade. * Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Parliament Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled FREDERICTON. Route 8. 45 after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Montreal. The beauty of the English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each of which bears the inscription: "Ave Pater, ilex. Creator, Ave Simplex. Ave Trine, Ave Fili, Lux, Siilvutor, Ave Regniins in Sublime, Ave Sniritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine fine, Ave Beat* UniUis. Ave Sancla Triniuu." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen St. and the river are the substantial City Hall and Post-Office, and the well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of the Province are trained. The University of New Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed by the Province, and does an important work in carrying on the higher education of the country, despite the competition of denominational col- leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston: "From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is V feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful rivtv St John. ' . ' : Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on; full to its banks, and re- flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its shores, it has all the beauty of a loug lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- sories arc as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- ing. and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva): though among European scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." St. Mary's and Nashwaiiksis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of the St. John, and are reached by a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great lumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Highlanders;. 46 Route 8. FREDERICTON. In the year 1690 the French government sent out the Chevalier de Villebon as Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis). his capital, he found that Sir William. Phipps's New-England fleet had recently captured and de- stroyed its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- tal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maine. In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships Arundel, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de Villebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- tachments were put'in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sicurde Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Mouts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Fredericton has become dormant. 7 M. above Fredericton is Aukpaque, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their '* august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque hud been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about 500 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, and household goods across a long portage; then they ascended the rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake. and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Scboodic Lake, and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the Machias River. Floating down that stream, they reached Machiasi in time to aid in beating off the British squadron from that town. From Fredericton to the Miramichi. Through the Forest. The Royal Mail-stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at a very early hour, and the passenger gets breakfast at Eastman's, and sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $6 (exclusive of hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far the greater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the road leaves much to be desired. After crossing the ferry at Fredericton 1 Machias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi), and it la held that it was discovered by the ancient French explorer! on the Festival of the Magi. GRAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 lighthouse rising from the E. shore; and the steamer passes around into White's Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor near the villages of MaquapH and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove and Wiggings Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay- Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg's Corner is at the head of navigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good authority that the fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills; but that very good sport may be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner. Visitors to this district must be provided with full camp-equipage. A road also leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) to Blissviile, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 SI. 11 Fredericton to Woodstock. By tbe New Brunswick Railway, which is now completed to Edmundston. The company hopes that the line will be carried through to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. Stations. — Gibson; St Mary's, 1 M.; Douglas, 3; SpringhilL 6|; Rockland, 10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16J; Lawrence, 17J; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22£; Burnside, 25; Upper Keswick, 28*; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, 36£ ; Millville, 38*; Nackawic, 43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstock Junction, 52; Newburgh, 57; River- side, 60; Northampton, 61J. Fare from Frederictou to Woodstock, $ 1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland (61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the steam ferry-boat (5 c.), from Fredericton to Gibson; and the terminal station of the railway is near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 3 D 50 Route 11. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. of the prosperous and happy settlements which have been founded here by Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Nashwaaksis River is crossed. Then follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which are clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springhill (see page 51); and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 1783, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The line next passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick Land Company, an association which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, and purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They established their capital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the forest, settled a large company of people from the Isle of Skye upon their lands, and expended $500,000 in vain attempts to colonize this district. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- hind, and the open valley of the St John is approached, beyond Jfeto- burgh. For the last few'miles of the journey beautiful views are given from the high grades of the line, inclnding the river and its intervales and surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- way bridge. Woodstock (.American House, comfortable), the capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff over the St. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertrnde are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other partof New Brunswick. The bold bluffs over the St. John are generally well- wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- mills at the mouth of the Meduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock WOODSTOCK. Route 12. 51 is the American village of Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- tecture and its society. "Of the quality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to spcik too highly, espe- cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor-plate manufacturers in England- On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly in- dented by au Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best Quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic Inch of Wood- stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from the village,and arc being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the British iron-clad frigates. The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (see page 36); fare, $2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton; fare, $ 1-75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Grand Falls, when the river is high enough. Trains run N. to Grand Falls, and W. to Houlton. 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the mail-stage. The distance is 62 M.; the fare is $2.50. The stage is uncovered, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M.; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- tol (Kingsclear), 16; Lower Prince William, 21; Prince William, 25; Dumfries, 32; Pokiok Falls,39; Lower Canterbury,44 ; Canterbury,51; Lower Woodstock; Wood- stock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William (Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George, where an antimony-mine is being worked; 3 M. beyond which is Magu.ndy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Rangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pokiok^ with large lumber-mills, 3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place"), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-raff and rubbish from the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Cuiputneticook Lakes and Passania- quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the rocks by the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Villcbon to many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1684 to the Sieur Clignancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts from the fort on the Jemseg. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Rapids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of Allan's retreat, on page 46.) Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the steamboats sometimes find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon approaches the N. B. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. "The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, Is one of the pleas- ante.it drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, and the comfortable farm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the FLORENCEVILLE. Rout« IS- 53 windings of the great river, the picturesque knolls, and the gay appearance of the pretty straggling little town, all giving au air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- looking country." (Gordon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup. The New-Brunswick Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to Edmundstou, through a rather picturesquo and diversified country, with cliarming river-views, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 73 M., where the St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 2£ M. above Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hills enclosing lake-like reaches of river, graceful islands, and fair meadows. Stations.—Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M.; Newburgh Junction, 6; Hartland, 13; Peel,17; Florenceville, 23; Kent,26; Hath, 29; Muniac,41; Perth, 49; Andover (Tobique), 51; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M.; E. Lyndon, 14; Caribou, 19; Presque Isle, 34); Grand F'alls, 73; St. Leonard's, 87; Green River, 104; St. Basil, 107; Edmundston, 113. It is 80 M. by stage from Edmundston to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Law- rence (S5). The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — tall crops of maize, ripening iields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitnde. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under line willows, or through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hox. Akthuk Gordon.) The train runs Out E. from Woodstock across the St. John vallev to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N. on the main line, and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are qniet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- tural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large hotel) is a pretty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. "Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river. 5 M. S. W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794. 54 Route 13. TOBIQUE. From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through rich hill and forest scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fish- ing. (For guides, etc., write to Richards & Son, Fredericton, N. B-). Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant (butrather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the landscape. Tobique (/. A. Perley's inn), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobique River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. Fort Fairfield (Fort Fairfield House) is 7 M. N. W. of Tobique, and is an American border-town, with 900 inhabitants, 5 churches, and several small fac- tories. This town was settled by men of New Brunswick in 1816, at which time it was supposed to be inside the Provincial line. A road runs from Fort Fairfield S. W. to Presque Isle (Presque hU Hotel), a village of about 1 000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, an academy, several factories, and a newspaper (the " Presque Isle Sun- rise"). This town is 42 M. N. of Houlton, on the U. S. military road which runs to the Madawaska district, and is one of the centres of the rich forming lands of the Aroostook Valley, parts of which are now occupied by Swedish colonists. From Tobique to Bathurst. Through the Wilderness. Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. About 1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narrows, where the rapid cur- rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 50 -100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on cither side. Tbe first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near the foot of the reach is the settlement of Arthurette, with about 400 inhabitants. The Red Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and descend between high shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream; and by the evening of the second day the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian name signifies "a river with a wall at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M., through a region of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 31 M. above the mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the Fhore, and blue hills more remote, en- gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster's Cove on tbe N. bank, and running along the shores of Dismond and Long Island, 44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the K., and navigable by canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this confluence are passed, occasional glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days lrom Tobique.). NICTOR LAKE. , Route 13. 55 The Campbell River here comes in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique Lake and other remote wilderness-waters: the Momozcket descends from the N., and from the N. W. comes the Nictor, or Little Tobique Kiver. It is a good day's tourney from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nictor; and another day conducts to the * N ictor Lake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other locality I have seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Chaleur. Close to its southern ed»e a granite mountain rises to a height of nearly d,»UO ft., clothed with wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray shinglv slopes Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- esque" forms arc on other sides; and in the lake itself, in the shadow of the moun- tain is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes2-d hours to ascend the mountain (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very flue. The ake lies right at our feet, —millions of acres of forest are spread out before llS like a map finking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst ICatah- din and .Mars Hill in Maine, Traradiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the Uestigouchc andlireen Mountain in Victoria,are all distinctly visible." (Gordon.J Froin°the head of Nictor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the Nepisiguit Lake, on whose E. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount Tenenffe Near the outlet is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Nepisiguit Rtver to the Great Palls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between distant ranges of bare granite hills. Tho Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. the scenery is very interesting, with noble red cliffs, and canons, seething rapids, hill- girt lakes, and true forest wildness. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream in New Brunswick. Grand Falls (Grarul-FaUs Hotel, a new- summer-resort; American; Master's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British garrison, and now capital of Victoria County, has latterly become famous as a watering-place, the attractions being the noble river and gorge and hill scenery adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing- grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands oil a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French habitans and Danish immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound here, in the fall, and furnish good sport; and the strawberries of July are delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen from the old mill above, from the Wells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with grand prospect of the canon and rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over tie profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-inspiring. There are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft. above), the village, inclnding Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- mon-River and Blue Mts. The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 56 Route IS. GRAND FALLS. 68 ft high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for $ M. through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 100 to 240 ft. high. "It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Fulls when a raft is about passing over. 3-4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Rapide de Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, 65 M. distant. It is a tradition of the Micmaes that in a remote age two families of their tribe were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- tack the lower Micmac villages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. A few miles above the falls they asked their unwilling guides if the stream was all smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together into a raft, and went to steep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile war- riors, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmaes on the river be- low, and the brave women were ever afterward held in high honor by the tribe. Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E. bank of the stream, and soon enters the Acadian-French settlements and farming- districts. 8-10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michand families. The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand River (in 1863): "The whole aspect of the farm was that of a vidtairie in Nor- mandy; the outer doors of the house gandily painted, the panels of a different color from the frame. — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shining floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel,—the French costume and appearance of Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, —all carried me back to the other side of title Atlantic." Grand River (TardifTs inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. beyond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The St. John River to the Restigouche. A rugged wilderness-journey may be made on this line, by engaging Acadian guides and canoes at the Madawaskasettlements. 3-4 weeks wilt be sufficient time to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. John the voyagers ascend the Grand River to its tributary, the Waagansis. A port- age of 6-6 M- from this stream leads to the Waagan, down whose narrow current the canoes float through the forest until the broad Restigouche is entered (see Route 15 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in " Vacation Tourists" for 1862 - 63, p. 477). MADAWASK A. Route IS. 5 7 6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond arc some islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all of whom are Acndians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond the populous village of Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to the Acadian settlement of Edmundston (Whitney's Hotel), at the con- fluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is the centre of the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. This district is stndded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftiljr situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crnde, but the scenery about it, inclnding the great river, the rich meadows, the far- away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and whitefish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds each) is to be enjoyed in this vicinity, particularly in Fish River and the Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. This people is descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the Bay of Fandy and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves divided by a national boundary; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 8,000 persons in these settlements. "It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- waska Valley; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on uur right, and the river on our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited bead- waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prop. Johnston.) The American village of Madawaska (two Inns) is opposite Edmundston, and has over 1,000 inhabitants. The TJ. S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce); in 1869 was incorporated as Dickey vllle, in honor of some local statesman; and in 1871 received the name of Frenchville, "as describing the nationality of its settlers." From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland, a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with. Lake Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 3* 58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort K«i(,an old border-post of ttaeU.S. Army. It has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (inclnding the adjacent farming settle- ments). and is the terminus of the mail-route from Van Buren. From this point stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian Tillage of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. The latter stream, flowing from the N. W., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- stookwaagamis, Pechtawcekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of tho St. Francis, the St. John River is luclnded in the State of Maine, and flows through that imrcenf c and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest of Germany ut its largest expanse in modern times. The 8tates of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehcad Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. Tlie Eagle Lakes, in Maine, arc visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) by a portage of 5} M. from Frenchvitle, 5 M. above Edmundston, to Long Lake, whence, by Mnd, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- scend through beautiful scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There are famous burbot aud whitefish ill these lakes. At Edmundston the Royal mail-route leaves the St. John River, and ascends the VV. shore of the Madawaska. But few settlements are passed, and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. About 25 M. from Edmundston tlie road reaches the foot of the picturesque Temiscouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it overlooks the lake. Temiscouata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake is 30 M. long by 2-3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the Cabineau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is the Tuladi River, which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows down through a chain of seclnded and rarely visited iakelets. The chief settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late as 1850. At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of whitefish were taken in the fall run of 1378. 1 M. up are falls, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for lb M., to the Forks, where the fishing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other game abound In these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads froni Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M. , then a portage oT 2^ M. to Mnd Lake; then a long and delightful canoe-descent to Fourth fequa-took Lake; then down into Third Squa-took, from whose shore rises the noble-viewing Squa-took Peak; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to ienus- couata Lake. 'The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Lonp is 40- 50 M. long, and descends through a wild region into which few settlers have advanced. SHEDIAC. Rout« 14. 59 14. St. John to Shediac. Distances- — St. John to Moncton, 89 M.; Painsec Junction, 97; Dorchester Iload, 102; Shediac, 106; Point du Obene, 108. St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. Passengers for Shediac and Point du Chene change cars at Painsec Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. Shediac (Weldon's; Waverley) is a village of 500 inhabitants, with 3 churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew's, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters (Ottrea canadensis) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "L« Moniteur Acadien." Point du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chene House) is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers run from Point du Chene to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make con- nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43) for Char- lottetown and all parts of the island. Passengers leave St. John at 8 A. M., and reach Charlottetown at 8 p. M. The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages ran E. from Shediac by Point du Chene to Barachois, 8 M.; Tedish, 17; Great Sheinogue (Avard's Hotel), 22; and Little Shemoguc, 24. These settlements contain about 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom arc Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogue. 10 -12 M. N. of Shediac (mail-stago daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,500 inhabitants, seven eighths of whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villages. 21S1. from Shediac is Buctoucke (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 59 a Route 77. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. 77. St. John and Halifax to Quebec. The Intercolonial Railway is the gigantic and costly outgrowth of the Canadian National sentiment, which has established here a perfectly equipped railway route of vast extent, through a region which can never pay the cost of its operation, being thinly settled, and exposed to very serious climatic vicissitndes. It was deemed essential to hnve a first-class route between the maritime and inland prov- inces, entirely on Canadian territory, even though the distance is nearly double that across New England. The first road was surveyed by Major Yule, R. E., before 1840, and ran across the present Northern Maine, then claimed and partly held by Canada. In 1846-48 a new route was carefully laid out by officers of the Royal Engineers. The construction began in 1869, and was finished in 1876. This great military route runs from tho E. terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, at Riviere du Loup, to Rimouski, where it leaves the St. Lawrence, and crosses the lonely high- lands of Quebec, reaching grades 743 ft. above the sea, and descends to the Bay Chaleur. Thence it runs down the north shore of New Brunswick, and down across Nova Scotia, to Halifax, its magnificent winter-harbor. From the main line there are branches to Dalhousie, Chatham, Richibucto, Point du Chene, St. John, and Pictou. The entire length of track is about 850 M. Stations (Moncton to Quebec).—Moncton to Berry's Mills, 8 M.; Canaan, 19; Coal Branch, 28; Weldford,37; Kent Junction, 48; Rogersville, 57; Barnaby River, 69 j Chatham Junction, 72; Derby, 75; Newcastle, 78; Beaver Brook, 88; Bartibogue, 99 ; Red Pine, 109; Bathurst, 122; Petite Roche, 134; Beliedune, 142; Jacquet River, 151; New Mills, 161; Charlo, 167; Dalhousie, 177; Campbellton, 185; Metapedia, 198; Mill Stream, 208; Assametquaghan, 219; Causap£ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. W. Arm opena on the 1. Parsing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on Point Plcasaut, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. Arrival by Kail way. — The nil way has been prolonged, bv a system of costly works, to a terminus within the city, where a large and handsome ter- minal station has been erected, with all modern conveniences. It is not tar from the Queen's Duck Yard. 94 Route 19. HALIFAX. Hotels — The*Halifax,107HolliaSt.,$2 a day; the'International, on Hol- lis S° 8175-2 a day iCarlton House,'57 Argylo St small but anatocratioj Royal Argyll St.: Mansion House, H9 B^ugton St.; Waverley I IcasantSt. j Almon\ Seville St.; and numerous small second-class houses. Halifax needs a "bSSJSSS. —*&.. P«try, and confectionery may be obtained at the shops on Barrh,gton" ,fd Hollis Sts. American beverages are compounded at the bar in thkeadlnK-Room8.—The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of Gran»?lto and Pr"n°™Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Par lament Buildings; an™"htwo"htof hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Holla St ; ,and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir William Young) is at 286 Bmr- rmato"St and is open from 3 to 6 P. m. The Merchants' Exchange and Beadlug- Ki» at i58 HollisSt. The Church of England Institute (Library and Gyinna- "C^-SuelilliL Club has an elegant house at 155 UiK^.O* lie Young Men's Club, Starr St. (open from 2 to 10 ^ L Th^CvaUMfax British St George's, Charitable Irish, and Germania Societies. The Koyalllal tax Yacht Club bi a house at Richmond, with billiard and reading rooms, and a line of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. «,„,._ Amusements.—There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, calfemthe Acnaa"my of Music ; and several Lecture Halls. During the »>nter»m. fine skating is enjoyed at the Rink, in the Public Gardens Good games o'cricket and indifferent SSeball playing may be seen on the Gam on Cricke * ^ But Halifax is chietiy famous for the interest it takes in trials of ski bet'veett yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur frequently during ^Omnibuses traverse the chief streets throughout the city, at a lo'v rate of fare. The horse-car tracks have been taken up. There are also a great number or car- riages of various kinds, but their fares are not low. Bailwavs. — The Intercolonial, running to St. John, N. B., in 2i6 M. (see Routes 10 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31); the Windsor & Annapolis, prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). Steamships.—The Allan Line, fortnightly, for St. John's, N. F., Queens- town and Liverpool, Norfolk, and Baltimore. Fares, Halifax to Liverpool, $ 75 and S 25; to Norfolk or Baltimore, 5 20 and $ 12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, N F. and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) leave'Halifax for Bermnda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at St. Thomas with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanish The Carroll and Worcester leave Esson's Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- days. Fare, $8; with state-room, S9. The Carroll or the Worcester leaves Esson's Wharf every Monday noon Tor the Strait of Canso and Charlottctown, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, *4; cabin state-room, 86; saloon state-room, $6. The George SKattiick leaves Cor- 915. The passenger steamers Alhambra and Comma, of the Cromwell Line, ply between Halifax and New York at intervals of about 10 days. The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South Ferry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25 c.). The steam- ferry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The Goliah makes frequent trips up the Bedford Basin. Staees leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne ana Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 A. M Stages leave at 6 A. M, on Monday, Wednesday, and Fridav for Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). Halifax, the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of the British Empire in the Western Hemisphere, occupies a commanding position on one of the finest harbors of the Atlantic coast. It HALIFAX. RrnUe 19. 95 has 36,100 inhabitants (census of 1881), with 7 banks, 5 daily papers and several tri-weeklies and weeklies, and 26 churches (7 Anglican, 7 Presby- terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The city occupies a picturesque position on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1S69 the imports amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to 8 3,169,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was 316,753,812. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jots over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- cient fire department, with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2£ M., and is about \ M. wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: "Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation.'' Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of tho buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between Hollis, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assembly; and on the S. is the chamber of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and I. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King William IV., Jndge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military heroes, Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. The new Provincial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft in area. It is built of brown freestone, in 96 Route 19. HALIFAX. aa ornate style of architecture, and cost $120,000. The lower story is occupied by the Post-Office; and the third floor contains the * Provincial Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relies, curiosities from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 1862 and 1870,—6 tons, 8 cwt., valued at S 3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. On the corner of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on Hollis St. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are admitted and allowed to pass around the ramparts under escort of a soldier, after regis- tering their names at the gate. The attendant soldier will point out all the objects of interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become hopelessly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The works were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father of Queen Victoria, who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He em- ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the present inimenso stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massive nia- toury of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensiro barracks within arc said to be bomb-proof. During the years 1878-74 the artillery has been changed, and the previous nnxed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the best prospect is that from the S- E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the slopes below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage; the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns; and at the S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- tary quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. "But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing flags of all nations arc at anchor, and then let your vision sweep past and over the inlands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-banks that loom ominously at the boundary-line of the horizon, you will see a picture of marvellous beauty; for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of blue HALIFAX. Route 19. 97 water; and as we walk down Citadel Hill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its quaint mouldy old gables, its soldiers and Bailora, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities." (Cozzens.) Lower Water St. borders the harbor-front, and gives access to the -wharves of the various steams!lip and packet lines. It runs from the Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- vation. near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi- dated appearance throughout its entire length. The Queen's Dockyard occupies £ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is much used by the frigates of the British navy, botli to repair and to refit, and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- nic Majesty. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (inclnding the present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy-Yards), Inclnding the figure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, the Chesapeake, which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in kindly recognition of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperial Government has lately caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent will generally admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. In the N. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of offi- cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of German immigrants. On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9£ A. m. Near this building is the Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and has the same line of stndies as an American high-school. Farther out on Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- station. From the plateau on which the seclnded Admiralty House is 5 o '98 Route 19. HALIFAX. located, the visitor can look down on the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, and the inner harbor. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden Road, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and honored cemetery, on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to Welsford and Parker, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. (Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad granite base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care of the Rev. Mr. Laing). Above the Cathedra1, on the Spring Garden Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The Horticultural Gardens are on the Spring Garden Road, and are well arranged and cared for. They were purchased by the city in September, 1874, and were then united with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of Citadel Hill. Military music is given here by the garrison bands during the summer. Near the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a stately building situated in pleasant grounds. The Protestant Cemetery adjoins the Horticultural Gardens on the W., and contains a great number of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are the new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and till lately the immense Poor Asylum, completed at a cost of $ 260,000, and recently burned. The Government Honse is a short distance beyond St Matthew's Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official residence of the Lieutenant- Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S., on Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At tho foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from vhose wharf the lower harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Island, on which is a powerful modern fortress, bearing a heavy armament from which immense chilled- iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position is the key to the harbor, and converges its fire with that of Fort Clarence, a low but massive casemated work, 1 M. S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could swoop the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries on the N. W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the corner of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie College and University is at the corner of Duke and Barrington Sts., and was founded by the Earl of Dalhousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to HALIFAX. Route 19. 99 provide means for the liberal education of young men who did not wish to go (or were debarred from going) to King's College, at Windsor. There are 7 professors in the academic department, and the medical school has 13 professors. In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland- It was commanded by the Duke d'Anville.and was composed of the linc-of-battlc ships Trident, Ardent, Mars, and Alcidt, 64 guns each ; the Northumberland, CariUon,Tigre, Leopard, and lOnommi*, GO guns each; the Diantant, 50; Megire, 30; Argonaute, 26; Prince d'Orange,2Q\ the Par/ait, Mercure, Pnlmr, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, with 30 transports, carrying an army of 8,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to '' occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New England." The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anvillu reached Ciiebucto liny (Halifax) on Sept. 10, *vith only 2 ships of the lino and a few transports. Six days Liter tiie unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Vice-Admiral D:Estoumellc com- mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and immense barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1,200 nien had died from scurvy on the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 French soldiers and 2 - 300 Micmac Indians died around the Basin and were buried near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the line and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis Royal; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged to retire from the American waters. The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and tho French named it La Bate Saine, "on account of the salubrity of the air.'' In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scotia, partly In prospect of commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports and the sloop-of-war Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,376 colo- nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July,and was named in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. Tho Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submission; but in 1751 the suburb of Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 500 Germans settled here in 1751-52, but it was found difficult to preserve the col- ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great fleets and armies of London and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against Louisbourg and Quebec; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. After the close of the Revolutionary War, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took refuge here; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edward. The ancient palisade-wall inclnded the space between the present Salter, Barring- ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor; and its citadel was the small Government House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. The growth of Halifax during tho present century has been very slow, in view of its great commercial advantages and possibilities. The presence of largo bodies of troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain effect in deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Haligonians were warmly enlisted in favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern ports. The cessation of the war put a stop to this lucrative trade; but it is now hoped that the completion of the Inter- colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit Halifax. There is a rivalry between St. John and Halifax which resembles that between Chicago and St. Louis, and leads to similar journalistic tournaments. St. John claims that she has 100 Route tO. THE ENVIRONS OF HALIFAX. a first-class hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not; and the Nova-Scotian city answers, in return, that she has the best cricket-club and the champion oarsman of America. Sir William Fenwick Williams, of Kars, Bart., K. C. B., D.C. L-, was born at Hali- fax in 1800. After serving in Ceylon, Turkey ,and-Persia, he instructed the Moslem artillery, and fortified the city of Kars. Here he was besieged by the Russians, under Gen. Mouravieif. He defeated the enemy near the city, but was forced to surrender after a heroic defence of six months, being a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was afterwards Commander of the Forces in Canada. Admiral Sir Provo Wallis was born at Halifax in 1791, and was early engaged in the great battle between the Cleopatra, 32, and the French Vilte de Milan, 46. Ho afterwards served ou the Curieux, the Gloire, and the Siiannon, to whose command he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. 20. The Environs of Halifax. The favorite drive from Halifax is to the Four-Mile Bouse, and along the shores of the * Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of water is 6 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, with from 8 to 36 fathoms of depth. It is entered by way of the Narrows, a passage 2^ - 3 M. long and £ M. wide, leading from Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200-330 ft. in height, between which are 10 square miles of secure anchoring-ground. The village of Bedford is on the "W. shore, and has several summer hotels (Bellevue, Bedford, etc.). The steamer Gollah leaves Halifax for Bedford at 11 A. m. and 2 p. u. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the Royal Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily; and exciting rowing- matches sometimes come off near the Four-Mile House. Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and hospitals of the French Armada, in 1746, and 1,300 men were buried there. Their remains were found by subsequent settlers. The first permanent colonies along these shores were made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. Hammond's Plains are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1815 by slaves brought away from the shores of Maryland and Virginia by the British fleets. This is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughout the Province, dirty and dilapi- dated to the last degree. To the N. W. is the Poekwock Lake, 4 M. long, with di- versified shores, and abounding in trout. "The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies 'Kissing Bridge,' which the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. Who gathers toll nobody knows, but —" Point Pleasant projects between the harbor and the N. W. Ann, and is covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrow roads, and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is Fort Ogilvie, a garrisoned post, whose artillery commands the channel. A short distance to the W. is the antiquated structure called the Prince of Wales's Tower, from which fine views are afforded. The Point Pleasant Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer passage. The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and J M. wide, and is a river-like inlet, which runs N. W. from the harbor to within 2 M. of the Bedford Basin. DARTMOUTH. Route tl. 101 Its shores are high and picturesque, and on the Halifax side are several fine mansions, surrounded by ornamental grounds. In the upper part of the Arm is Melville Island, where American prisoners were kept during the War of 1812. Ferguson's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. Arm, inhabited chiefly by fishermen and pilots. The steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the N. W. Arm, and to McNab's Island, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Micmac leaves the South Kerry Wharf at 10 A. M. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. M. Dartmouth (Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merchants; and at about £ M. from the village is the spacious and imposing building of the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 6 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the Ind;ans. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 2L The Basin of Minas.—Halifax to St. John, Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). The steamboat-route from Windsor to St. John is here described. This line has been withdrawn, but may be replaced. The Evangeline and other boats cruise on the Basin, and the description given below may serve for characterizing the various ports. As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 2-3 M. below is Hanlsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Grand Pre*, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Comwallis 102 Route tL CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the L, bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs of Chivirit, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- ally approaches blomidon. Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with strong marks of volcanic action. "The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surluce, the precipi tered hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the meadows just beyond the railway-station of Grand Pre*, the traveller reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the station, he sees a large tree at the corner of the field on the left front. Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction effected by the British troops was complete, and there are now no relies of the an- cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basin of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the Cornwallis River is discharged. The early Acadians reclaimed these rich meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grand Pre", but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very productive and val- uable. In 1610 the broad meadow between Grand Pre* and Wolfville was enclosed by new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 108 Route tt. GRAND PB& Noble's Massachusetts regiment was cantoned at Grand Pre in the winter of 174(1 7. Dining ii heavy suow-storm, before dawn on Feb. 11, the town was at- torked by IMti French troops, arranged in 10 divisions, and commanded by Coulon de VilllurK. The sentinels were vigilant,and gave the alarm as soon as the hostile columns were tvnn over the- lotty snow-drifts; but the assailants dashed in fearlessly and soon carried the strongest of the barracks. Col. Noble was slain while fighting In his shirt. 134 Americans were killed and wounded and 69 were made prisoners; '21 of the attacking party were killed and wounded. In the morning 350 of the Mu.trmrhiiM'lt« men were concentrated in a stono building, and fought with much bravery, the combat being waged from house to house through the streets. By noon their ammunition was expended, and they surrendered to the French, being paroled and allowed to march out with the honors of war. A convivial dim.or was then enjoyed by the officers of the whilom hostile forces, and the Americans were m'nt to Annapolis under an Acadian guard, while the French soon afterward retired to Itoaulmwdn, hearing their captured artillery and four stands of colors which had been taken in the battle. The tdiorea of the Ibis in of Minas wero settled In the early part of the 17th century by Immigrants from La Roehellc, Saintonge, and Poitou. They scon erected dikes by which the tldo was Kept off from tho meadows, and from these rich reclaimed lands they gathered givat crops. Several cargoes of grain were exported to Boston pvery jeiir, and (ho rettlenient soon became large and prosperous. The lndians regarded these new neighbors with affection, and lived on terms of perfect peace with them. Dining tho wars between France end Great Britain, the Acadians were strongly patriotic, and took up arms in the cause of their native land. Intenfcly devoted to tho Itoinau Catholic Church, and considering these wars as in the nature of crusades, they fought valiantly and well. Hut when Nova Scotia was finally ceded to Great Britain (in 1713), their pontlon bcramo very awkward and italnful. Many of them refufed to take the oath of alle- giance, and for others a modified formula was framed. The emissaries of the French power at Loulsbourg and Quebec circulated among them and maintained their loy- alty to Franco at a fever hint, while their priests acted continually on the same policy, and kept up tho hostility to the conquerors. The British Provincial govern- ment was located at Annapolis, and though its laws were mi.d and clement, It could not command respect on account of Its physical weakness. Under these circum- stances, hundreds of tho Acadians joined the French armies during every war be- tween tho two powers, and proved dangerous focmen, on account of their knowledge of tho land. British settlers were unwilling to locate among these people on account of their hostility, and tho fairest lands of the Province were thus held by an alien and hostilo population. The great conflict between England and France in the New World was still In full course, and the latter power was in possesion of the Cumulus. The majority of tho Acadians were doubtless peaceful and honest, occupied only with their local affairs; but some of them were hostilo and troublesome, and the anomalous position of these alien subjects was a source of Incessant danger to the English power. It was therefore determined in the council at Halifax, in 1755, that they must cither take an unconditional oath of allegiance to Great Britain or leavo the country. Deputations were callcd In from all the French settlements, and the alternatives were clearly set forth before them. Almost unanimously they refufed to take tho oath, preferring (they said) exile and confiscation to such an act, and teeming to regard their neutrality of the past 45 years as having become a vested right. It seems as if diplomacy and argument were tried to their utmost limit upon these unyielding recusants, and it then became necessary for the honor and safety of tho Province, to resort to sterner measures. It was resolved that the whole Aca- dian people should be banished to the southern American colonies, and that their estates and buildings, cattle and vessels, should be declared forfeited to the Crown. The Acadians were taken by surprise. A British detachment and fleet destroyed all the villages, farms, and churches, on the Chignecto Basin and the Petitcodiac River, sweeping up many prisoners and meeting with some sharp fighting. Monc- ton destroyed Shediac, Remsheg, and other towns on the Gulf coast; Murray gath- ered up the people about Windsor and to the E.; and Handfield put the French Aunapolitans on shipboard, except a few who escaped into the woods. W inflow collected 1,923 persons at Grand Pr6 and embarked them, and burned 255 houfes, 276 barns, and 11 mills. (Winslow was a Massachusetts officer, and 20;eair later his own family was driven into exile for hostility to America.) The people of Grand Pro were sent to North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland. GRAND PR& Route 22. 109 '« While we see plainly that England could never really control this Province while they remained in it, all our feelings of humanity aro affected by the removal itself, and still more by the severity of the attendant circumstances They were the victims of great error on their own part, and of delusive views that false friends bad instilled into their minds, and the impulses of national ambition and jealousy precipitated their fate. It is, however, some consolation to know that very many of the cxiles returned within a few years to their native land, and though not restored to their native farms, they became an integral and respected portion of our popula- tion, displaying, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited,— the same modest, humble, ami peaceable disposition, that had been their early attri- butes."' (Murdoch) (Sec also Clare, Chezzltcook, and Traoaiue.) In 1760 a large colony of families from Connecticut, in a lleet of 22 vessels con- voyed by a man-of-war, arrived at Grand Pre and occupied the deserted farms. "They found 60 ox-carts and as many yokes, which thu unfortunate French had used in conveying their baggage to the vessels that carried thein away from tho country; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- tle, that, deserted by their owners, had perished in winter from the lack of food. They also met with a few straggling families of Acadians who had escaped from the scrutinizing search of the soldiers at the removal of their countrymen, and who, afraid of sharing the same fate, had not ventured to till the land, or to appear in the open country. They had eaten no bread for five years, and had subsisted on vegetables, flsh, and the more hardy part of the cattle that had survived the sever- ity of the first winter of their abandonment.'' (Halirurton.) "This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight. Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. Lond from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. "This is the forest primeval; but where aro the hearts that beneath it Leaped like the roc, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, — Men whose lives glided on like rivers that water tho woodlands, Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven? Waste are those pleasant farms, and the farmers forever departed! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand Pr6. "In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, seclnded, still, the little village of Grand Pre Lay In the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant, Shut out the turbulent tides; but at certain seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Heuries. Thatched were the roofs, with dormer-windows; and gables projecting Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway. There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset ~" Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens. 110 RouUtt. GRAND PREL Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. Reverend walked he among them; and up rose matrons and maidens, Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome. Theu came the laborers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed- Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelus founded, nnd over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clonds of incense ascending, Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republies. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows; Rut their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners; There the richest was poor, and the iroorest lived in abundance." The poet then describes "the gentle Evangeline, the pride of the vil- lage." "Fair was sho to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, Rlack were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thorn by the wayside, Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses! Sweet was her breath as the breath of kino that feed in the meadows. When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noontide Flagons of home-brewed ale, ah! fair in sooth was the maiden. Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, while the bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. Down the long street she passed, with her chaplet of beads and her missal, Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtlc of blue, and the ear-rings, — Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. But a celestial brightness —a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession, Homeward serenely she walked, with God's benediction upon her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadian*, and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of Grand Pre", and the weary exile of the villagers. "So passed the morning away. And lo! with a summons sonorous Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard, Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. Then came the guard from the ships, and marching prondly among them Entered the sacred portal. With lond and dissonant clangor Echoed the sound of their brazen drums from ceiling and casement,— Echoed a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. 'Ye are convened this day,' he said,' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind has he been; but how have j*ru answered his kindness, Let your own hearts reply! To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and obey, and deliver the will of our monarch; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattlt* of all kinds Forfeited be to the crown; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there Ever as faithful subjects, a happy and peaceable people! Prisoners no— ^declare you; for such is his Majesty's pleasure.' GRAND PR& RoutetZ. Ill There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and stir of embarking. Busily plied the freighted boats; and in the confusion Wives were torn from their husbands, and mother.-!, too late, saw their children Left on the land, extending their arms, with wildest entreaties. Snddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the blood-red Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o'er the horizon Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling hup' shadows together. Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the root's of the village, Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. Columns of shining smoke uprose, and Hashes of tlauie were Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. Then as the wind seized the gleeds and the burning thatch, and uplifting, Whirled them aloft through the air, at once from a hundred house-tops Started the sheeted smoke, with dashes of (lame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr'5, When on the filling tide the freighted vessels departed, Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, Exile without an end, and without an example in story. Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed; Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Bauks of Newfoundland. Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city, From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas, — From the bleak shores of the sea, to the lands where the Father of Waters Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean, Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. Friends they sought and homes; and many, despairing, heartbroken, Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. Written their history stands on tablets of stoue in the churchyards." Longfellow's Evangeline. "Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, — and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the valley of Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its Ger- trnde, the other its Evangeline." (Cozzens. ) "Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- ently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas, and here escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prospect, the beauti- ful verdant vale of the Oaspereaux; the extended township of Ilortou interspersed with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the clond-capped summit of the lofty cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt., form an assemblage of objects rarely united with so striking an effect." "It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is beheld' from the hill tliat overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Horton. The Grand Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles and blue highlands of the opposite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields; in the calm beauty of agricultural scenery; and in the romantic wilduess of the distant forests. During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of cattle are seen quietly cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie; while numerous vessels plying on the Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resources of this fertile dis- trict." (LtALlIillaTON.) 112 Route tS. ST. MARY'S BAY. 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth.— The Tns- ket Lakes. From St. John or Halifax to Annapolis Royal. see Route 18. The Western-Counties Railway was begun in September. 1874, and runs from Dighy to Yarmouth, and is being built between Digby and Annapolis. Stations. — Dighy to Jordantown, 4 M.; Bloomfickl, 9; North Range. 11; Plynipton, 14; Port Gilbert, 16: Weymouth, 22; Delliveau, 20; Church Point, 30; Little Brook, 32; Saulnierville, 34: Meteghan, 37; Hectanooga, 46; Norwood, 49; Lake Jessie, 51; Brazil, 54; Green Cove, 57 ; Ohio, 00 ; Hebron, 02 ; Yarmouth, 67. We add also the distances on the old highway. Itinerary. — Annnpolis Roval; Clementsport, 8.', M.; Victoria Bridge, 184 J Smith's Cove, 16; Digbv. 20'. ; St. Marv's Bav, 27.',-; "Weymouth Road, 32; IVc'v- mouth Bridge, 38; Bclliveau "Cove, 43; ('lare, 50; M'eteghau Cove, 6D; Cheticam'p, 63; Bear River, 74; Yarmouth Likes, 81; Yarmouth, 90. The railway lies farther inland than the highway, traversing a com- paratively new country, where beautiful lakes and ponds abound on every side. The fare from Yarmouth to Weymouth is $1.05; to Digby, $2.45; to Annapolis, 83; to St. John, 83.50; to Halifax, S6.50; to Boston (lim- ited), $7. Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages 84, 85 (reversed). On leaving Digby the line runs S. W., traversing the farming set- tlement of Marshalltown, and crosses the isthmus between the An- napolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful * St. Mary's Bay, which is about 85 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the opposite shore are the highlands of Digby Neck (see Route 24), a continu- ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and the bay, and the water-front is occupied by numerous farms. In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the Sieur de Monts lay for two weeks, in 1604, while the shores were being explored by boat's-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the woods for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took him off. The name Bait de Ste. Marie was given by Champlain. Brighton is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agricultural village with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (or Specht's Cove) and Gilbert's Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth (two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth of the Sissiboo River, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of Neu> Edinburgh. Across St. Mary's Bay is the maritime village of Sandy Cove. The line now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymouth Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- mouth. It is 4 M. from the mouth of the river; and 2 - 3 JI. to the E. are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is regained at Belli- veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet chiefly devoted to agriculture CLARE. Route £3. 113 and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver River, and beyond through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Acadian- French. The Clare Settlements were founded about 1763 by the descendants of the Acadians who had been exiled to New England. After the conquest of Canada these unfortunate wanderers were suffered to return to Nova Scotia, but they found their former domains about the Hasin of Minas already occupied by the New-Englanders. So they removed to the less fertile but still pleasant shores of Clare, and founded new homes, alternating their farm labors with Ashing-voyages on St. Mary's Bay or the outer sea. This little commonwealth of 4-5,000 people was for many years governed and directed by '*the amiahle and venerated Abbe Segoigne,"a patrician priest who had fled from France during the Revolution of 1793. His power and influence were unlimited, and were exerted only for the peace and well-being of his people. Under this benign guidance the colony flourished amain; new hamlets arose along the shores of the beautiful bay; and an Acadian village was founded in the oak-groves of Tusket. M. Segnignc also conciliated the Micmaes, learned their language, and was highly venerated by all their tribe. *' When the traveller enters Clare, the houses, the household utensils, the foreign language, and the uniform costume of the inhabitants excite his surprise; because no parish of Nova Scotia has such a distinctive character. The Acadians are far behind their neighbors in modes of agriculture: they show a great reluctance to enter the forest, and in place of advancing upon the highlands, they subdivide their lands along the shore and keep their children about them. They preserve their language and customs with a singular tenacity, and though commerce places them in constant communication with the English, they never contract marriage with them, nor adopt their manners, nor dwell in their villages. Thisconduct is not due to dislike of the English government; it must be attributed rather to ancient usage, to the national character, and to their systems of education. But if they are infe- rior to the English colonists in the arts which strengthen and extend the influence of society, they can prondly challenge comparison in their social and domestic vir- tues. Without ambition, living with frugality, they regulate their life according to their means; devoted to their ancient worship, they are not divided by religious discord: in fine, contented with their lot and moral in their habits of life, they en- joy perhaps as much of happiness and goodness as is possible in the frailty of human nature." (ILvlirurton.) '' Still stands the forest primeval; but under the shade of its branches Dwells another race, with other customs and language. Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile Wandered back to their native land to die in its bosom. In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom arc still busy; Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story, While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wall of the forest." Longfellow's Evangeline. The road runs S. W. from Belliveau Cove to Grosses Coques (300 inhabi- tants) and Port Acadie, Clare, and Saulnierville, a line of hamlets whose inhabitants are engaged in farming and the fisheries. A road runs 7 M. E. to New T sket, an Anglo-Acadian village in the interior, near the island-stndded Lake Wentworth. Meteghan (German's Hotel) is a bay- side village of 500 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are Acadians and farm- ers. There is a small church here, and half-a-dozen stores for country trade among the neighboring farmers. Meteghan is the last village on St. Mary's Bay, and the road now turns to the S. and passes the inland 114 Route t3. YARMOUTH. hamlet of Cheticamp. Cape Cove is an Acadian settlement, and is finely situated on a headland which faces the Atlantic. The line leaves the vicinity of the sea and strikes inland through a region of forests and lakes; reaching Yarmouth about 13 M. S- of Beaver River. Yarmouth (United States Hotel, S6-8 a week; American Hotel) is a wealthy and prosperous seaport on the S. W. coast of Nova Scotia, and is situated on a narrow harbor 3 M. from the Atlantic. It has 6,280 in- habitants, with 9 churches, 2 banks, 4 local marine-insurance companies, and 2 weekly newspapers. It has a public library and a small museum of natural history. The schools are said to be the best in the Province, and occupy conspicuous buildings on the ridge back of the town. The Court-House is in the upper part of the town; near which is the spacious Baptist church, built in Novanglian architecture. The Episcopal church is a new building, and is one of the best in Nova Scotia. 1 M- out is a rural cemetery of 40 acres. Yarmouth is built along a line of low rocky heights, over a harbor which is nearly drained at low tide. It receives a goodly number of summer visitors, most of whom pass into the Tusket Lakes or along the coast to the E-, in search of sport Yarmouth has been called the most American of all the Provincial towns, and Ifl endowed with the energy and pertinacity of New England. Though occupying a remote situation on an indifferent harbor, with a barren and incapable back coun- try, this town has risen to opulence and distinction by the indomitable industry of its citizens. In 1761 the shipping of the country was confined to one 25-ton fishing- boat; in 1869 it amounted to 284 vessels, measuring 93,896 tons. and is now fur in advance even of that figure. It is claimed that Yarmouth, for her population, is the largest ship-owning port In the world. In addition to these great commercial fleets, the town has established a steamship-line to St. John and Boston, and is building, almost alone, the Western-Counties Railway to Annapolis. It is expected that great benefit will accrue from the timber-districts which wilt be opened by this new line of travel. "Yarmouth's financial success is due largely to the practical jndgment and sagacity of her mariners. She has reared an army of shipmasters of whom any country might be prond/' and it is claimed that a large proportion of the Cape-Ann fishing-captains are natives of this country. On the adjacent coast, and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford (Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darling's Lake (Short Bcach), and Deerfleld. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabitants in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- serted shores were taken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds; and the present population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogiaiik, which means " Land's End." Steamships run between Yarmouth and Boston once or twice a week. When the Western-Counties Railway is finished to Annapolis. this will afford the quickest route between Boston and Halifax. The sea journey from Boston to Yarmouth takes 19-20 hrs.; the railway journey to Halifax will take 9 hours more. TUSKET LAKES. Route t3. 115 The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago. The township of Yarmouth contains 80 lakes, and to a bird flying overhead it must seem like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. They are nearly all connected with the Tusket ttiver, stnd are generally small, very irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., and are strung along the course of the - river and its tributaries, joined by narrow aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often ascend in mistake for the main channel In the lower lakes, where the tide flows, near Argylc Bay, are profitable eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue Mts., afford good trout-fishing. The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 5 M. out on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerjield, near the Salmon-River Lukes. or passing over to the settlement :it Lake George (12- 14 M. from Yarmouth), which is l£ M. wide and 3-4 M. long, and is the largest lake in the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrtngton telegraph- road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket (two inns), a large and prosperous shipbuild- ing village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the Tusket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature being the many green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- clnding the centra! group of the Tuskers, and terminating at the island- strewn Lake Went worth. The best place is found by following the road which runs N. E. 15- 18 M-, between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of Kempt (small hotel), near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N- E. (to the Liv- erpool Lakes), or for 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelburne settlements), without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Great Spirit once appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmaes, and offered to reward his virtue by granting his utmost desire. After long meditation the chief asked the Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon which the mandate was issued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has been querulous at the sight of man. This great forest was formerly the paradise of mooi=e-hunters, but is now closed to that sport by the recent Provincial law which forbids the killing of moose for the next three years. Poaching is, of course, quite possible, since the forest cannot be stndded with game-keepers; but men of culture and foresight will doubtless approve the action of the government, and will abstain from illegally pursuing this noble game, which must become extinct in a very few years unless carefully protected. S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stnd- ding the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most other collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 116 Xoutegj. DIGBY NECK. 365 in number, though they do not claim to possess an intercalary islet like that on Lake George (New York), which appears only every fourth year. The Tuskets vary in size from Morris Island, which is 3 M. long, down to the smallest tuft>-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of scenery. The outer fringe of the archipelago is threaded by the Halifax and Yarmouth steamship (see page 125). "The scenery of Argyle Bay is extremely beautiful of its kind; innumerable islands and peninsulas enclose the water in every direction Cottages and cul- tivated land break the masses of forest, and the masts of small fishing-vessels peep- lug up from every little cove attest the multiplied resources which Nature has pro- vided for the supply of the inhabitants." (Oapt. Mookson.) Among these uarrow passes hundreds of Acadians took refuge during the persecu- tions of 1758 - 60. A British frigate was scut down to hunt them out, but one of her boats' crews was destroyed by the fugitives among the islands, and they were not dislodged. There are now two or three hamlets of Acadians in the region of the upper lakes. [The Editor deprecates the meagreness of the foregoiog account of the Tusket Lakes. It was too late in the season, when he arrived at Yarmouth, to make the tour of this district, and the landlord of the United States Hotel, the best authority on the sporting facilities of the lake-country, was then attending a party of Boston sportsmen among the Blue Mts. The foregoing statements about the district, though obtained from the best accessible sources of information, arc therefore given under reserve; and it would be best for gentlemen who wish to summer among the Tuskets to make inquiries by letter of the proprietor of the United States Hotel, Yarmouth, N. S.j 24. Digby Neck. Tri-weekly stages leave Dighy for this remote corner of Nova Scotia. Fare to Sandy Cove, 81.50; to West Port, $ 2. Distances. — Dighy to Rossway, 8^ M.; Waterford, 12; Centreville, 15; Lake- side, 17; Sandy Cove, 20; Little River, 25; Petite Passage, 30; Free Port; West Port, 40. The stage runs S. W. from Digby, leaving the settlements of Marshall- town and Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt River. The first hamlet reaclied is Rossway, whence a road crosses to Gulliver's Cove on the Bay of Fuiidy. For over 20 M. the road descends the remarkable peninsula of Digby Neck, whose average width, from bay to bay, is about lj M. On the 1. is the continuous range of dark hills which marks the W. end of the North Mt. range, where it is sinking towards the sea. Among these hills are found fine specimens of agate and .jasper, and the views from their summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches of blue water on either side. Fogs are, however, very prevalent here, and are locally supposed to be rather healthy than otherwise. On the 1. of the road are the broad waters of St. Mary's Bay, far beyond which are the low and rugged Blue Mts. Sandy Cove (small inn) is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 inhabitants and two churches. Its people live by farming nnd fishing, and support a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. i M. S. E., across St. Mary's Bay, is the port of Weymouth (see page 112). Beyond Little Biver village the stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Route 25. 117 the Petite Passage, which separates Digby Neck from Long Island. This strait is quite deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-and-white flashing light on its N. W. point (Boar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passage is a village of 390 inhabitants (mostly fishermen), and the stage now runs down Long Island on the Bay of Fundy side. If there is no fog the view across the bay is pleasing, and is usually enlivened by the sails of passing vessels. Long Island is about 10 SL long, and 2 M. wide, and its village of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. Near the end of Long Island another ferry-boat is taken, and the trav- eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Port (Denton's Hotel), a village of 600 inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen, shipbuilders, or sea- captains. This town is on Brier Island, the S. E. portal of the Bay of Fundy, and is 5 M. long by 2 II. wide. On its E. side are two fixed white lights, and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible for 15 M. 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. — The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia. The steamers of Fishwick's Express Line ply along the coast of Nova Scotia, leaving Halifax for Yarmouth weekly. Another vessel of this line plies between Halifax, Cape Canso, Guysborough, Port Hastings, Port Mulgrave, and Antigonish, giving access to all the North-Shore ports, and connecting with the Bras d'Or steamboats, for Cape Breton. Fares. —Halifax to Lunenburg, $2; to Liverpool, S 3.50; to Shelburne, $4.50; to Yarmouth, $6. Lunenburg to Liverpool, S3; to Shelburne, $3.50; to Yar- mouth, $4.50. Liverpool to Shelburne, $2; to Yarmouth, $3.50. Shelburne to Yarmouth, $2.50. Berths are inclnded in these prices, but the meals are extra. "The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, is pierced with innumerable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined with rocks and thousands of islands; and although no part of the country can properly be con- sidered mountainous, and there are but few steep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the whole, if not romantically sublime, is exceedingly picturesque; and the scenery, in many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscape which the head of Mahone Bay, in particular, presents can scarcely be surpassed.'' (M'Gregor's British America.) "The jagged outline of this coast, as seen upon the map, reminds us of the equally indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia; and the character of the coast as he sails along it— the rocky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forests — re- call to the traveller the appearance and natural productions of the same European country." (Prof. Johnston.) The steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see page 93), and gains the open sea beyond Chebucto Head and the lighthouse on Sambro Island. She usually makes a good offing before turning down the coast, in order to avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks the ocean steam- ship Atlantic was wrecked. 118 Route 25. LUNENBURG. This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the British war-vessels North and Helena were wrecked near Sambro. and 170 men were drowned. Mars Head derives its name from the fact that the British linu-of-battle shtp Mart, 70 guns, was wrecked upon its black ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Viper, 22, attacked H. M. S. Resolution, just ofl Sambro, and captured her after a long and desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Cape Sambro was named by the mariners of St. Malo early in the 17th century; and it is thought that the present form of the name is a corruption of St. Cenr!rr, the original designation- The ancient Latin book called the Now.« Orbis (published by Elzevir: Amsterdam, 1633) says that the islands between Cape Sambro (Sesambre) and Mahone Bay were called the Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been mas- sacred by the heathen Indians. Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and Mahone Bay make in on the N. , and "breezy Aspotoeon Lifts high its summit blue." The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the openings of these bays. The course is laid for Cross Island, where there are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to the Indians as Malagash, or " Milky," on account of the whiteness of its stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. "The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, and to a military traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other in Nova Scotia, the upper houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to bear upon all approaches." (Capt. Moorson.) Lunenburg (King's Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. Together with its immediate environs, it has 4,000 inhabitants, of whom over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is still retained, though not so completely as in their rural settlements; and the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buildings of Lunenburg County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fish is carried on, in addition to the southern exports. There are numerous farming communi- ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26); 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- side ledges called the Blue Rocks; to the S. E. is the rural settlement of Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens* This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Mala^ash. In 1745 the British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands In 17",3, 200 families of Germans and Swiss settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and three years' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the Indians ceased hostilities. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American priva- IRONBOUND ISLAND. Route 25. 119 tecrs, who landed detachments of armed men and occupied the principal buildings. After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors sailed away rejoicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on the robes of war and anxiously yearn for another naval attack, for whose reception spirited provisions were made. Among the people throughout this county German customs are still preserved, as at wedding.« and funerals; the German language is spoken; and sermons are deliv- ered oftentimes in the same tongue. The cows are made to do service in ploughing, and the farming implements arc of a primitive pattern. A large portion of the out- door work in the Holds Is done by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its lighthouse on the 1., and descends between the knob-like hills of the outer harbor. On the r. arc the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The Ovens (distant from Lunenburg, by road, 10 -12 M.). The low cliffs along this shore are pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. wide at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea dashes into these dark recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep booming reverberations. Certain features in the formation of these caves have led to the supposition that they were made by human labor, though the theorists do not state the probable object for which they were exca- vated. In 1861 gold was discovered on the Ovens peninsula, and 2,000 ounces were obtained during that autumn, since which the mining fever has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way of quartz-crushing. Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of Rose Bay is seen on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a sufficient offing has been made, the course is laid S. W. £ W. for 8£ M. Point Eurage* is soon passed, and then the vessel approaches * Ironbound Island. This re- markable rock is about \ M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in smooth curves of dark and iron-like rock, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a revolving light, which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Ironbound, on the r., is seen the deep estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridgewater, a distance of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence through a valley between high and knob-like hills. At Fort La Here in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Lieutenant-General of Acadie, and Captain of the West." He was a relative of Cardinal Richelieu, and had fought in the campaigns of La Rochelle and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- mains from Clande de ilazilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to Port Royal. By 1654 the colony had recovered itself, having "undoubtedly the best port and the best soil in the whole country." It was then attacked by the Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its houses and the chapel. At a later day the new Fort La Heve was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were beaten off several times with the loss of some of their best men. But the brave Frenchmen were finally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. In 1705 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston privateers. 120 Route 25. LIVERPOOL. When off Cape Lahave the steamer takes a course W. by S., which is followed for 15| M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the shore S. W. of Cape Lahave; and when about 9 M. from the cape, the entrance of Port Medway is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and l£ M. wide, and receives the waters of the Port Medway and Pedley Rivers. Port Med- way (Dunphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- fin's Island, and turns to the N. W. up Liverpool Bay. The shores are well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Harbor on the 1., and Brook- lyn (or Herring Cove) on the r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool River, with a line of wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. Liverpool ( Village Green Hotel, a comfortable summer-house; and two other inns) is a flourishing seaport with 3,102 inhabitants, 5 churches, a weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are lumbering, fish- ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth of the Liverpool River, and its streets are adorned with numerous large shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and lakes (see Route 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill-Village Road, and around the shores of the bay. Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of Ogumhegeok, made classic in the traditions of the Micmaes by the celebrated encounter which took place here between the divine Glooscap (sec page 106) and the great sorceress of the Atlantic coast. The struggle of craft and malevolence against superior power are quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- test ends in the defeat of the hag of Ogumktgtokt who is rent in pieces by the hunting-dogs of Glooscap. In May, 1604, the harbor of Liverpool was entered by Pierre du Guast, " Sieur de Monts of Saintonge, Gentleman inordinary of the Chamber, and Governor of Pons," who had secured a monopoly of the fur-trade between 40° and 54° N. latitnde- He found a ship here trading without authority, and confiscated her, naming the har- bor Port Rossignol, after her captain, "as though M. de Monts had wished to make some compensation to the man for the loss he inflicted on him, by immortalizing his name." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred to the large and beautiful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool River. About 1634 a shore-fishery was established here by M. Denys and Gov. Razilly. This enterprise was for a long time successful, but was finally crippled by the cap- ture of its heavily laden freighting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of D'Aulnay Charnisay, and the settlement was broken up. By the year 1760 a thriving village stood on this site,and in the War of 1812 many active privateers were fitted out here. In 1832 the port owned 25,000 tons of shipping. On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds Western Head and runs S. W. i S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port Mouton, partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of Port Mouton, with 350 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- ploring ship of the Sieur de Monts in 1604, and received the name which SHELBURNE. Route 25. 121 it still bears because a sheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and was drowned. The shoves were settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valiant service in the Carolinas. In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Mouton, " and discovered three very pleasant harbors and went ashore in one of them, which, after the ship's name, they called Llfke's Hay, where they found, a great way up, a very pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of the same they did sec very delicate meadows, having Hoses white and red growing thereon, with a kind of white Lily, which had a dainty smell." These shores, which were hardly so fair as the old mariner painted them, were soon occupied by a French post, after whose destruction they remained in solitnde for over a century. On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer runs W. S. VV. 15 II.; then Port Joli opens to the N. W., on which is a fishing-village of 200 inhabitants. About 3 M. beyond is Port Herbert, a deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Farther VV. is the mouth of Sable River; but the steamer holds a course too far out to distinguish much of these low shores. 3£ M. N. is Ram Island, W. of which are the ledges off Rngged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Locke's Island (two inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India trade and the Bank fisheries arc carried on. During the season of 1874 70,000 quintals offish (valued at $250,000) were exported from this point. On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of Gull Rock lies outside of the harbor, and has a powerful white light. Beyond Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaries of Green Harbor and the Jordan River, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The course is changed to N. W. £ N., and Bony's and Government Points are passed on the r. On the 1. Cape Roseway is approached, on which are two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- sel turns N. by E., leaving Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- burnc. The last few miles are traversed between the picturesque shores of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called "the best in the world, except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." Shelbur ne (Port Roseway House ; English and American Hotel) is the cap- ital of Shelburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. It is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 5-7 fathoms of water, without any shoals or flats. It is completely land- locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the fact that it is frozen solid during the winter, there being no river currents or strong tides to agitate the water. There are granite-ledges near the village, and the Roseway River empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch- town is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1783. The country back 6 122 Route 25. PORT LATOUR. of Shelburne is unimproved, and the roads soon terminate in the great for- ests about the Blue Mta. Stapes run from this town E. and W. Fares, Shelburne to Liverpool, $2.50; to Barrington, $1.50; to Yarmouth, $4. "The town of Shelburne is situated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M. in length and 2-3 M in breadth, in which the whole royal navy of Great Britain might lie completely landlocked." In 1783 large numbers of American Loyalists settled here, hoping to erect a great city on this uurivalled harbor. They brought their servants and equipages, and established a cultured metropolitan society. Shel- burne Foon ran ahead of Halifax, and measures were taken to transfer the feat of government here. Within one year the primeval forest was replaced by a city of 12,000 inhabitants (of whom 1,200 were negroes). The obscure hamlet which had been founded here (under the name of New Jerusalem) in 1764 was replaced by a metropolis; and Gov. Parr soon entered the bay on the frigate La Sophie, amid the roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city Shelburne. But the place had no rural back-country to supply and be euriched by; and the colonists, mostly patricians from the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engage in the fisheries. The money which they had brought from their old homes was at last exhausted, and then " Shelburne dwindled into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to notoriety." Many of its people returned contritely to the United States; and the population here soon sank to 400. "It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, with decayed timbers and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will lead him to conclnde that those wharves must once have teemed with shipmasters and sailors. The streets of the town arc changed into avenues bounded by stone fences on either side, in which grass plants contest the palm of supremacy with stones." Within two years over $2,500,000 were sunk in the founding of Shelburne. The steamer leaves Shelburne by the same course on which she entered, •with the stunted forests of McNutt's Island on the r. Rounding Cape Roseway within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Island, pass- ing Round Bay and the hamlet of Black Point, on the bold headland of the same name. Negro Island is then seen on the r., and is occupied by a population of fishermen; while its N. E. point has a powerful red-and- white flashing light. Inside of this island is the broad estuary of the Clyde River, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape Negro. Cape Negro was so named by Champlain, in 1604, ''on account of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes the Salvage Rocks, off Blanche Island (Point Jeffreys), and opens the broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of stirring events during the 17th century, and the remains of the fort of Clande de la Tour are still visible here. "Clande Turgis de St. Estienne, Sieur de la Tour, of the province of Champagne, quitted Paris, taking with him his son Charles Amador, then 14 years old, to settle in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, who was then engaged in founding Port Royal." 17 years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of Biencourt, Poutrincourt's son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the present Port Latour. Meantime Clande hod been captured by the English and carried to London, where he was knighted, and then married one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Being a Huguenot, he was the more easily seduced from his allegiance to France, and ho offered to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two frigates, and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering him high honors at London and the supreme command in Acadia, on behalf of the English power. "Clande at once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up the place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his master while he had a breath of life. That he esteemed. highly the dignities offered him by CAPE SABLE. Route 25. 123 the English king, hut should not boy them at the price of treason. That the prince he."erred was able to requite him; and if not, that fidelity was its own best recom- pense." The father employed affectionate intercession and bold menace, alike in Tain; and the English naval commander then landed his forces, hut was severely reputed from the fort, and finally gave up the siege. A traitor to France and a cause of disaster to England, the unfortunate La Tour dared not return to Europe, but advised his patrician wife to go back with the fleet, since naught now remained for him but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in whatever condi- tion he might be placed, she would always be his faithful companion, and that all her happiness would consist in softening his grief." lie then threw himself on the clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection with military vigilance, and wel- comed the elder IaTour, with his family, servants, and equipage, giving him a house and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither himself nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and comfort for many years. (See also page 19.) The hamlet of Port Latour is seen on the inner shore, and the vessel rounds the long low promontory of Baccara Point, on which is a small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 M.)- On the W. is Cape Sable Island, which is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, and has a population of lt636, with three churches. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, who had prosperous little hamlets on the shores. In August, 1758, 400 soldiers of the 35th British Regiment landed here and destroyed the settle- ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 the island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whose de- scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an outer islet at the extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 8- 9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of the Norse discoverers, " flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were far around where they west, and the shore was low." In the year 99-1 this point was visited by Leif, the son of Eric the Red, of Brattahlid, in Greenland. He anchored his ship off shore and landed in a boat; and when he returned on board he said: "This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Marklaxd 'i (woodland). Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- tained colonies. In the year 1007 Mark land was again visited by Thorfinn Karlsefne, who, with 160 men, was sailing south to Vinland. These events are narrated in the ancient Icelandic epies of the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of Thorfinn Karlsefne. In 1347 a ship arrived at Iceland from the shores of Markland, which is de- scribed by the Annales Skalholtini and the Codex Flateyensis as having been smaller than any Icelandic coasting-vessel. In such tiny craft did the fearless Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. In the autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off the cape between H. M. S. Albany and the French war-vessel St. Francis. The engagement lasted four hours, and ended in the surrender of the St. Francis, whose convoy. however, escaped and reached its destination. In July, 1812, the Salem privateer Polly was cruising off Cape Sable, when she sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- men; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a hot fire upon the incau- tious Polly, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- ate's boats and launch attacked the privateer, but were repulsed by heavy dis- charges of musketry and langrage. The Polly made her escape, and during the chase and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- ison, and was sent into Salem. In the same vicinity (Aug. 1,1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured the British ship Royal Bounty, 10 guns, after a battle of one hour's duration. The TUSKET ISLANDS. Route 25. 125 cask; and from this bay making W. about 6 leagues, crossing a bay which runs In 2-3 leagues to the N., we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sea, which may contain, some 2, others 3 leagues, and others less, according to my jndgment. They arc mostly very dangerous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides and rocks level with the water. These islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, and aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of birds called tangivux that they may he easily kuorkc-d down with a stick. In another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, marmettes, bustards, ptrroqnets dr mrr, snipes, vultures, and other birds of prey, maiines, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, goitlants, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, nppoilst crows, cranes, and other sorts, whieh make their nests here." (Ck Am PLAIN.) *' Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4 5 M. distant from the main- land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the multitnde of birds, are called tsles aux Tangueux; others are called Isles aux Loups Manns (Seal Islands):' (Novus Orris.) N. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pubnico Har- bor, on whose shores is the great fishing-village of Pubnico (Carland's Hotel), with 2,500 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acadian-French, the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. There are valuable eel-fisheries off this coast, and the Acadians own 65 schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Argyll, a settlement of 800 inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. The steamer now crosses the mouth of Argylc Bay and the estuary of the Tusket River (see page 116), and enters the archipelago of the *Tusket Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the Ellen- wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Ellenwood, Allen, and Murder Islands, and a multitnde of others. The islands are of great variety of size and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and sturdy trees; and the channels between them are narrow and very deep. The frequent kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either side, and the fascinating commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the scenery of the Thousand Islands cr the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets are not even embayed; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the continent, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest tides of the ocean. Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mnd on either side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the wharves of Yarmouth. Yarmouth, see page 114. 126 Route 26. ST. MARGARET'S BAY. 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route. — Chester and Mahone Bay. The easiest route to the chief ports on this coast is by the steamship line (see Route 25); and the new Western-Counties Railway, from Yarmouth to Annapolis, will, when completed, furnish a still more expeditious line of travel. But many points on the Atlantic front of the Province are, and will be, accessible only by stages. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts, and the accommodations for wayfarers are indifferent. Distances. — Halifax to St. Margaret's Bay, 21 M.; Hubbard's Cove (McLean's), 32: Chester, 45; Mahone Bay, 62 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.); Bridgewater, 70; Mill Village, 88; Liverpool, 97; Port Mouton, 107; Port Joli, 112; Sable River, 122; Jordan River, 130; Shelburne, 137; Harrington, 157; Pubnico, 175; Tusket, 191; Yarmouth, 201. (Certain facta ascertained while travelling over this route have led the Editor to state the distance between Bridgewater and Chester as 4 M. less than that given in the official itinerary.) Fares. — Halifax to Chester, $2.50; Mahone Bay, $3.50 (Lunenburg, $4); Bridgewater, $ 4; Liverpool, $6; Shelburne, $8.50; Harrington, $ 10; Yarmouth, $12. The stage rattles up the hilly streets of Halifax at early morning, and traverses the wide commons N. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to the level of the Northwest Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauphi- ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long by 6 M. wide, and is entered by a passage 2 M. wide; and is supposed to have been named (Bate de Ste. Marguerite) by Champlain, who visited it in May, 1603. There are several small maritime villages on its shores, and the dark blue waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of large ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by shingly and stony strands on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the huts of fishermen's hamlets, with their boats, nets, and kettles by the road- side. Hubbard's Cove has a small inn, where passengers get their midday meals. There was an ancient water-route from this point to the Basin of Minna. 2 M. from the Cove is Dauphiney'« Lake, which is 4 M. long, whence a carry of 1£ M. leads into the Ponhook Lake, a river-like expanse 8 M. long, and nowhere so much as 1 M. wide. A short outlet leads to the Blind Lake, which winds for 7 M. through the forests W. of the Ardoise Mt., and is drained by the St Croix River, emptying into the Avon at Windsor. 7 M. S. W. of Hubbard's Cove the stage crosses the East River, "a glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks tumbling into it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the 1.), as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to CHESTER. Route 26. 127 Chester (two good inns), a village of about 900 inhabitants, finely situ- ated on a hill-slope which overlooks the Chester Basin and Mahone Bay. It has three churches, and a pleasant summer society. This town was settled about the year 1760 by 144 Xew-Englanders, who brought an outfit of cattle and farming-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon wearied of fanning and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- lage is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- charged; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, or white pipe-clay. Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admirer of this town, and says: "Three pleasant seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands some stores. There is a large tree, under which I have placei some seats; and off the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomeods, and cunners, in any quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islands in the bay, where one can bathe and pienic to heart's-conteut. There are sailing-boats for lobster-spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go to Gold River he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou quietly feeding on the natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond Beech Hill is a trackless forest, filled with moose, with which two old hunters living near oft hold familiar inter- course." (The FLihing Tourist.) One of the pleasantest excursions in this district is to Deep Cove and Blandford, 16 M. from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of Mahone Bay. From Blandford the ascent of Mt. Aspotogon is easily ac- complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine* view, inclnding the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the deep, calm waters of St. Mar- garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape Sambro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also drive down the Lunenburg and Lahave road, which affords pretty sea- views. A rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N., passing through an almost unbroken wilderness of hills, and following the course of the Avon Lakes and River. Semi-weekly stages run from Chester to Kentvillc (see page 90). * Mahone Bay opens to the S., E. and W. from Chester, and may be explored by boats or yachts from that village. It is stndded with beau- tiful islands, popularly supposed to be 365 in number, the largest of which are occupied by cosey little farms, while the smaller ones are covered with bits of forest The mainland shores are nearly all occupied by prosperous farms, which are under the care of the laborious Germans of the county. The fogs prevail in these waters to a far less extent than on the outer deep, and it is not infrequently that vessels round the point in a dense white mist and enter the sunshine on the Bay. Boats and boatmen may be obtained at the villages along the shore, and pleasant excursions may be made among the islands, in pursuit of fish. "The uurivalled beauty 128 Route 26. MAHONE BAY. of Mahone Bay" has been the theme of praise from all who have visited this district. In June, 1813, the line-of-battle-ship La Hogue and the frigate Orpheus chased the American privateer Young Teazer in among these islands. Though completely overpowered, the Yankee vessel re- fused to surrender, and she was blown up by one of her officers. Tbe whole crew, 94 in number, was destroyed in this catastrophe. Oak Island is celebrated as one of the places where it is alleged that Capt. Kidd's treasure is hidden. About 80 years ago 3 New-Englanders claimed to have found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the sauio effect. Digging down, they passed regular layers of flag-stones and cut logs, and their successors penetrated the earth over 100 ft. farther, finding layers of timber, charcoal, putty, West-Indian graes, sawed planks, and other curious substanceK, together with a quaintly carved stone. The pit became flooded with water, and was pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants invested in the enterprise, and great stone drains were discovered leading from the sea into the pit. After much money and labor was spent in the excavation, it was given up about 10 years ago, and the object of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- tery Big Tancook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It contains 500 inhabitants, who aro engaged in farming and fishing. Between this point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, with 60 inhabitants. These islands were devastated, in 1756, by the Indians, who killed several of the Settlers. *' This bay, the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not surpassed by any landscape in America, is about 10 II broad and 12 deep, and contains within it a multitnde of beautiful wooded islands, which were probably never counted, but are said to exceed 200." Soon after the Yarmouth stage IeaVes Chester " we come to Chester Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove; and far out to sea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- land said to be the highest land in Nova Scotia ( V ). The road follows the shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others for several miles above at longer intervals." Mahone Bay (Victoria Hotel) is a village of 800 inhabitants, situated on a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 churches, and its inhab- itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity are several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg (see page 118). This point was known to the Indians by the name of Afushamush. and was fortified by the British in 1754. The stage now traverses a dreary inland region, inhabited by Germans, and soon reaches Biidgeioater (two inns), a thriving village on the Lahave River, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and is largely engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the United States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have proved fatal to the fish (see page 119). The road now traverses a dismal region for 18 M., when it reaches Mill Village (small hotel), on the Port Mcdway River. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- LIVERPOOL LAKES. Route 27. 129 factory, and its population numbers about 400. It is near the Doran and Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from the Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. S. W. is Liverpool (see page 120). From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays and across the intervening strips of land. The chief stations and their distances are given in the itinerary on page 126; the descriptions of the towns may be found in Route 25. 27. The Liverpool Lakes. This system of inland waters is most easily reached from Halifax or St. John by passing to Annapolis Royal and there takiog the stage which leaves at 6 a. m. dailv. Instances. — Annapolis; Milfonl, 14 M.; Maitland,27: Northfield,30; Kempt, 33; ilrookHeld, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Pouhook), 50; Middlelield, 56; Liverpool, 70 Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's River, which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milfurd (small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured at Milfonl this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with hill-ranges in the distance; and flow through regions which are as yet but little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant and not too coy; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- able this summer. Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Nova Scotia. All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in every way infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- lock.) "In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue, their shores fringed with rock bowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." (Capt. Haiidi.) The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the Hoot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few miles beyond is Nortlifield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 6* I 130 Route 27. LIVERPOOL LAKES. shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a beautiful island-strewn sheet of water 4 M. long. The road now enters Brookjield, the centre of the new farming settle- ments of the North District of Queen's County. Several roads diverge hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced. 5-6 M. S. E. is the Malaga Lake, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands. The road passes on to Greenfield, a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted by the other road, which runs S. from Brookfield through Caledonia Corner (small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, '' the headquarters of the Micmaes and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River." This Indian village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with every rod of the lake-district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake Rossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. "A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of the lake. The breeze fell rapidly with the sua and enabled us to steer towards the centre, from which alone the size of the lake could be appreciated, owing to the number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shape and size, — from the grizzly rock bearing a solitary stunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches Here and there a bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembarkation; and fre- quent sv Ivan scenes of an. almost fairy-land character opened up as we coasted along the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with water- lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky groves of hemlocks.'' (Capt. Hardy.) At the foot of Lake Rossignol is a wide oak-opening, with a fine greensward under groves of white oaks. Near this point the Liverpool River flows out, passing several islets, and affording good trout-fishing. In and about this oak-opening was the chief village of the ancient Micmaes of this region; and here are their nearly oblit- erated burying-grounds. The site is now a favorite resort for hunting and fishiog parties. The name Ponhook means " the first lake in a chain "; and these shores are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Miggtnndhghee, or " Micmac Land," that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the Segum-Sega Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. W. shore (several portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens may also be visited thence, af- fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmaes of Ponhook are the best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant solitndes, and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is only about 15 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. Liverpool, see page 120. CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 28. Halifax to Tangier. The Royal mnil-stage leaves Halifax at 6 A. u. on Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- day (returning tin: alternate days., for the village.-) along the Atlantic shore to the E. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but there is pretty coo--t-scenery along the route. LHstaures. — Halifax; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Innis's), 16?, M.; Chczzet- oook Road (Ormon's), IS'S; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28',: 1-akeville (Webber's), 40; Ship Harbor, 48; Tangier, 50 j Sheet Harbor, 74; Heaver Harbor, 84. After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs K. through a lake-strewn coun- try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little Salmon River it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861-62, but they are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like expanse of Porter's Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same name. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is Chezzetcook Harbor, with its long shores lined with settlements of the Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes: — "But we are again in the Acadian forest; let ua enjoy the scenery. The road we are on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, but the ocean is hidden from view by the thick woods. As we ride ulong, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets that frequently break in upon tho landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent; some- times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into view; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." Here "the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in the pictures of the most ultramarine painters. Here and there a green island or a fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. Tor miles and miles the eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of the harbor, and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray theexquisitc line of creamy saru i that skirted their edges and melted off in the clear margin of the water. Occasional little cottages nestle among these green banks,—not the Acadian houses of the poem, 'with thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-wcathercocked. .... The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of Halifax, and as soon as the sun is up vanish like the dew. They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple commerce." Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the long subsequent wars. After tho British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many of the old families returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied by its early settlers. They formed an agricultural community, and grew rapidly in prosperity and in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the Acadians of the Basin of Minas. (Sec pages 108 and 113.) The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake (1.) and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodoboit Harbor is soon reached, and its head is crossed. This is the harbor where Capt. Hardy made his pen-picture of this romantic coast: — "Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of Nova Scotia, — their innumerable island■ and heavily-wooded shores fringed with 132 Route 28. TANGIER. the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the fishermen's clearings, .... the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect reflection of the islands and of the little fishing-schooners, the wreaths of blue smoke rising from their cabin stoves, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful sounds of awakening life from the clearings." Near Musquodoboit are some valuable gold-mines, with two powerful quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of Jeddore Harbor, and then crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Ship Harbor is reached. A few miles N. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly to the Boar's Back Ridge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width of 2-4 M. To the N. are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to which the Indians gave the onomatopoetic name of Ahmagopakegeek, which signifies "tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters the once famous gold-bearing district of Tangier. These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the ground was honeycombed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, and only patience and hard work could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shore-washings were engaged in for some time, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about S0 square miles, and has 12 lodes of auriferous quartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, and their average yield is $ 400-500 per miner each year. Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry Bay, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor (Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. From this point a road follows the shore to the N. E. to Sherbrooke, about 50 M. distant, passing the obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Nee um Tench, Ekum Sekum, Marie Joseph, and Liscomb Harbor. The- back-country on all this route is yet desolate and unsettled. There arc so many islands off the shore that this portion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Bait de Tout a Us Isles), although it is not embayed. Sherbrooke, see page 133. GUYSBOROUGH. Route 29. 133 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. This district is reached by passing on the Intercolonial Railway (see Routes 16 and 17) from St. John or Halifax to New Glasgow, and thence taking the Royal mail-stage to Antigonish (see Route 32). From Antigonish a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, S2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). This is a village on the 1- bank of the St. Mary's River, the largest river in Nova Scoria, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- rives considerable interest from the fact that in the vicinity is one of the broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. GoUlenville is 3 M. from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. This district covers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, having yielded as high as $ 2,000 per man per year, or about three times the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- ous lodes are operated at Goldenville only, where there are several quartz- crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on the first day over $500 worth of gold was found here. Systematic mining operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal has since been very satisfactory. The Wine-Harbor Gold-field Is several miles 9. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton Is small, yet the breadth and continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district H seamed with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the N. E. side of the harbor were soon opened Of later years the Wine-Harbor district has greatly declined In popularity and productiveness. The Stormont Gold-fields are 36 M. N. E. of Sherbrooke, and are most easily reached by direct conveyance from Antigonish. Gold was discovered here by the Indians in 1861, and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, this region has remained undeveloped, ami its total yield in 18^9 was but 227 ounces (34,540). The chief village in the district is at the head of Country Harbor, a pic- turesque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carolina. Guysborough and Cope Canso. Guysborough (Grant's Hotel) is reached by daily mail-Mages from Heatherton, on the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway. After leaving the valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, and descends through the Intervale Settlement and Manchester to Guvs- borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It has about 1,700 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the bay. 134 RouteSO. SABLE ISLAND. A strong post was established at Chedabucto, on the site of Guysborough. in 1636, by M. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a strong fort here, together with 120 men. Merc he received and supported the exiled children of D'Auluay Char- nisay; and here also he was vainly besieged for several days by La Girandicrc and 100 men from Canso- In 1690 the works were held by De Montorgucuil, and were bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under Sir William Phipps. Finally, when the buildings of the fort were all in flames about him, the gallant Frenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The ruins of the ancient fort arc now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. A bold ridge runs 31 M. E. from Guysborough along the S- shore of Chert- abucto Bay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A road follows the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export trade. Several islands lie off this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of -which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. White Haven is on the S. side of the great peninsula of Wilmot, 30 M. from Guysborough, and is a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy of access, of capacious breadth. and free from ice in winter. Its E. point is White Head, usually the first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- tnde, on which is a fixed white light. Just W. of White Haven is the fishermen's hamlet of Molasses Harbor, near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 30. Sable Island. The Editor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its usclessness to the summer tourist. It may also be of service to voyagers on these coasts who should chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed snddenly in a strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may get. A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and arc chartered by the Canadian government to carry provisions and stores to the lighthouse people and patrols, and to bring back the persons who may have been wrecked there during the pre- vious year. Sable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by storms, under whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by the shifting of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. "Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- proaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a bouse and a barn dot the western extremity, — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- itor does is to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhere much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, inclnding the dry bars, and holding a shallow lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it all lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy SABLE ISLAND. RouleSO. 135 hill and sandy valley fading away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost men galloping their rough ponies into headquarters, recalled by the flag flying over his head; the West-end house of reluge, with bread and matches, firewood and kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-staff on the adjoin- ing hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll with a dead man's name or old ship's tradition,— Baker's Hill, Trott's Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- ditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated their social crimes,—the little burial-ground netting in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to the re- pose of many a sea-tossed limb; and '2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side house and barn, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. farther down, bv the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-staff at the foot of the lake, and 5 M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes arc heading their young broods on the mirror-tike poads. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or piied like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow's how, the Maskonemet' s stern, the Eust Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide, are spotting the sands, each with its talc of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- ribbed sand" "Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- ward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash,—now fords the shallow lake, looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned; and coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof with a reck- less -nia-h goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts his pony to her mettle to escape the clond of angry birds which, arising in countless numbers, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his pony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting their wave-tossed limbs,—great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Da. J. B. Gilpin.) For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of the old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddling gait, and chestnut or piebald colors. Once a year the droves arc all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 of the best are taken out to be scut to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here; and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean steamship Georgia and the French frigate L' Africainr. Iu the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning from Newfoundland (of which he had taken possession in the name of the English Crown), his little fleet became entangled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. The officers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a pinuace for many d-iys, were finally rescued- The other vessels, the Squirrel and the Golden HitvJ, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off the Azores the Squirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept past tiie Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter: "Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the Squirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went down with all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the noblest and best of men in an age of great men." In 1508 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sieur Baron de Leri ct de St. Just, Vic mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that afterwards saved many lives. In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- rying 200 convicts from the French prisons. He determined to found a settlement 136 Route 31. NEW GLASGOW. on Sable Island, and left 40 of his men there to commence the work. Soon after, De la Roche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these unfortunate colonists. Witbout food, clothiog, or wood, they suffered intensely, until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a Frenchshipon the island. For seven years they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, dressed in seal-skins, and living on fish. Then King ileuri IV. rent out a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 survivors, gaunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back to France, where they were pardoned and rewarded. An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonize Cape Bre- tou in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was transporting the Spaniards and their property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou. By the Pictou Branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Railway at Truro. station* St John to Pictou. St. John to Truro, 215 M.; Valley, 219; Union, 224; Kiversdale, 228; West River, 23G; Glengarry, 243; Hopewell, 250; Stellarton, 255; New Glasgow, 258; Pictou Landing, 260; Steamboat Wharf, 267. Stations.— Halifax to Pictou. Halifax to Truro, 61 M.; Valley, 65; Union, 70; Riversdalc. 74; West River, 82: Glengarry, 89; Hopewell, 96; Stellarton, 101J New Glasgow, 104; Pictou Landing, 112; Steamboat Wharf, 113. St. John lo Truro, see Routes 16 and 17. Halifax to Truro, see Route 17 (reversed). The train runs K. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enters a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Range, and the valley of the Salmon River is followed by several insignificant forest stations. Riversdale is surrounded by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the N. is the thriving Scottish settlement of Earltown. Beyond West River the train reaches Glengarry, which is the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hopewell (Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories; and a short dis- tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East River. Stellarton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- trolled (for the most part) by the General Mining Association, of London. There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and would doubtless return a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. Kew Glasgow (three inns) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, largely en- gaged in shipbuilding and having other manufactures, inclnding foundries and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the East River, and has large coal-mines in the vicinity. Here are the main offices and W. terminus of the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway, running 75 M. E. to the Strait of Canso. The train now descends by the East River to Fisher's Grant, opposite the town of i'ictou, to which the passengers are conveyed by ferry. PICTOU. Route 31. 137 Pictou (Eureka; Wavertey ; Revere, etc.) is a flourishing town on the Gulf shore, with 3,500 inhabitants, six churches, a masonic hall, two weekly papers, the public buildings of Pictou County, three banks, a handsome Y. M. C A. building, and the Pictou Academy, founded on the plan of a Scottish University in 1818, and now occupying a large and handsome new building, with museum, library, convocation hall, etc. The harbor is the finest on the S. shore of the Gulf, and can accommodate ships of any burden, having a depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of the harluir; and nearly opposite, the basin is divided into three arms, into which flow the East, Middle, and West Rivers, on which arc the ship- ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale Coal Com- panies, whence immense quantities of coal are exported. There is very pleasant scenery in the vicinity of Pictou, and good sea-bathing on the adjacent beaches. Pictou has a large coasting trade; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-nnlls, several saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, and with the large freestone quarries in the vicinity. Stages leave Pictou several times weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, Pugwasb, and Amherst (see page 81). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou forChar- lottctown, Summerside, and Shediac, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, on the arrival of the Halifax train (see Route 44); also for the Gulf ports and Quebec, every Tuesday at 7 a.m., and alternate Fridays at 1 p. m (see Route 69); also for Port Hood and the Magdalen Islands (see Route 49); and for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso. After the divine Glooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning" Bubbling," or *' Gas-exploding," and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he created the tortoise tribe, in this wise: Great festivals and games were made in his honor by the Indians of Pictook, but he chose to dwell with a homely, lazy, and despised old bachelor named Mikehickh, whom, after clothing in his own robe and giving him victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- ducing his size by a rnde surgical operation. The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, and in 1763 the French made futile preparations to found a colony here. In 1765, 200,000 acres of land in this vicinity were granted to a company in Philadelphia, whence bands of settlers came in 1767 - 71. Meantime the site of the town had been given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle. The Pennsyl- vanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the soil, and no progress was made in the new colony until 1773, when the ship Hector arrived with 180 persons from the Scottish Highlands. They were brought over by the Philadelphia company, but when they found that the shore lands were all taken, they refused to settle on the company's territory, and hence the agent cut off their supply of provisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little flour from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber to Britain, and planted wheat and potatoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 15 destitute families from Dumfriesshire; and at the close of the Revolutionary War many disbanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1786 the Rev. James McGregor came to Pictou and made a home, and as he was a powerful preacher in 138 Route SB. ANTIGONISH. the Gaelic language, many Highlanders from the other parts of the Province moved here, and new immigrations arrived from Scotland. In 1788 the town was com- menced on its present site by Deacon Patterson, and in 1792 it was made a shire- town. Great quantities of lumber were exported to Britain between 1805 and 1820, during the period of European convulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and while the British navy was the main hope of the nation. The place was captured in 1777 by an American privateer. Coal was discovered here in 1798, but the exporta- tion was small until 1827, when the General Miniog Association of Londou began operations. J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S., was born at Pictou in 1820, and graduated at the University of Edinburgh in 1840- He stndied and travelled with Sir Charles Lyell, and has become one of the leaders among the Christian scientists. His greatest work was the " Acadian Geology." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the McGill College, at Moutreal. 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton. By the Halifax and Cape Breton Railway. This comparatively new route leaves the Intercolonial Railway (Pictou Branch) at New Glasgow (see page 138), 104 M. from Halifax, and 253 M. from St. John, and runs down to the Strait of Canso, where it connects with a steam ferry-boat to Cape Breton, and with steamboats to various ports on the island. A trip eastward by this route, and a voyage on the Bras d'Or, gives a deeply interesting excursion. Stations. — New Glasgow to Glenfalloch, 5£ M.; Merigomish, 9$; French River, 13*; Piedmont, 18; Avondale, 22; Barney's River, 23£; Marshy Hope, 26; James River, 30^; Brierly Brook, 34^; Antigpnish, 40: South River, 45 j Taylor's Road, 47; Pomquet, 50; Heatherton, 52$; Afton, 56; Tracadie, 60; Giroirs, 61$; Little Tracadie, 65 ; Harbor au fiouche, 69; Cape Porcupine, 69; Strait of Canso, 74; Wylde's Cove, 75. Express-trains run daily, leaving New Glasgow after the arrival of the train from Halifax. On reaching the open country beyond New Glasgow, the road passes on for several miles through an uninteresting region of small farms and recent clearings. At the crossing of the Sutherland River, a road diverges to the N. E., leading to Merigomuh, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a safe and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, the latter of which are worked by the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with n capital of $400,000. Beyond the hamlet at the crossing of French River, —" which may have seen better days, and will probably see worse," — the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the N. E. Thence it descends through a sufficiently dreary country to the relay-house at Marshy Hope. "The sun has set when we come thundering down into the pretty Catholic village of Antigonisli. the most home-like place we have seen on the island. The twin stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom up large in the fading light, and the bishop's palace on the hill, the home of the Bishop of Arichat, appears to be an im- posing white barn with many staring windows. .... People were loitering in the street; the young beaux going up and down with the belles, after the leisurely manner in youth and summer. Perhaps they were stndents from St. Xavicr Col- ANTIGONISH. Route St 139 lege, or visiting gallants from Guysborough. They look into the post-office and the fancy store. They stroll and tike their little provincial pleasure, and make love, for all we can sec, as if Antigonish were a part of the world. How they must look down on Marshy Hope ami Addingtou Forks and Tracadic! What a charming place to live in is this!" (Baddeck.) Antigonish.1 (two good inns), the capital of the county of the same name, is situated at the head of a long and shoal harbor, near St. George's Bay. Some shipbuilding is done here, and many cargoes of cattle and butter are pent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the harbor are valuable deposits of gypsum, which arc sent away on coasting- vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a prosperous and pleasant town. The College of St. Francis Xavier is the Diocesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the residence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. The Cathedral of St. Ninmn was begun in 1S67, and was consecrated Sep- tember 13, 1874, by a Poutificol High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 priests assisted. It is in the Roman Basilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the facade, between the tall square towers, is the Gaelic inscription, Tight Dhe (" the House of God "). The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior has numerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- resents Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish saints, Nmian, Col umbo, and Margaret, Queen of Scotland. This splen- did structure is not too large for the numerous congregation every Sunday from the village and surrounding country, mostly Highland-Scotch, who frequently hear sermons in their own Gaelic tongue from the Cathe- dral pulpit. A few yards from the Cathedral there is a neat three- story building recently erected for a Ladies' Academy, to be conducted by the Montreal Sisters of the Congregation. The other denominations having churches in Antigonish arc the Presbyterians, the Anglicans, and the Baptists. The Presbyterian Church, on Main Street, is a handsome structure with a tall spire. The village has two branch banks and two weekly newspapers, — The Aurora, the organ of the Bishop of Arichat, and The Casket. The county has a population of 18,100, devoted chiefly to agricultural pursuits. Its capital is a pretty village with pleasant drives in the vicinity. Nearly all the people of the county do their shop- ping in the village, and hence the numerous stores along its main street, some of them large brick buildings. The harbor is ill-suited for shipping, but the railway now supplies the deficiency. l Antigonish, — accent on the lust syllable. It i) an Indian word, meaning "the River of Fish." 140 Route St. TRACADIE. Stages run daily from Antigonish S. to Sherbrooke bj Lochaber and College Lake. N. W. of the village are the bold and picturesque highlands long known as the Ant iyonish Alts., projecting from the line of the coast about 15 M. N. into the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft high, and hare a strong and well- marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly stages run N from Antigonish to Morristown and Georg«vilU, respectively 10 and 18 M. distant. 8-10 M. N. of tho latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. Georjre, on which. 400 ft above the sea, is a powerful revolving white light, which is visible for 25 M. at sea. From this point a road runs S. W. to Malignant Cove, which is also accessible by a ro- mantic road through the hills from Antigonish. This is a small seaside hamlet, which derives its name from the fact that It. B. M. frigate Malignant was once caught in these narrow waters during a heavy storm, and was run ashore here in order to avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M. beyond the Cove is ArisaiR", a romantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholies.who named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It has a long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against east-winds between Antigonish and Merigomish. The first important station between Antigonish and the Strait is Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A daily stage connects the railway at this station with Guysborvugh, a town on the Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatherton, and the capital of the county of Guysborough (sec page 133). Tracadie is in a French district of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, pertaining to the aus- tere order of the TrappUts. Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in num- ber, are from Belginm. They are excellent farmers, and have their land thoroughly cultivated. There is also a Convent of Sisters of Charity in the vicinity. The people of Tracadie, like all the 41,219 French inhab- itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and romantic history is allnded to on pages 108 and 113. "And now we passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the Nor- man kirtlc and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline appear, and then pass like a day-dream." (Cozzens.) Harbor au Bouche is a French district of 2,140 inhabitants. The village is out of sight of the station, on St. George's Bay, and has two churches and two inns. Beyond this point the line soon reaches its terminus, on the Strait of Canso, where passengers for Cape Breton take steamers. CAPE BRETON. The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M. long by 80 M. wide, and has an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-fields, which cover 250 square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a great lake of salt water, ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is provided with good harbors on the E. and S. shores. The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- merce of the Gulf. The upland soils are of good quality, and produce valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton" (London: 1869) will be of interest to the tourist: "The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may challenge comparison with those of any country within the temperate regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern coast, between the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days, with balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes. Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often suffer from too little than too much." "To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by hill and shore, by woods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of personal comfort, I would commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay, and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better content himself with reading of this island." (Norle. ) The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1713 the French authorities bestowed upon it the new name of Vide Royale, during the 142 Route SS. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- ish Crown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Cape Breton; and in August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbourg was founded. During the next half-century occurred the terrible wars between France and Great Britain, whose chief incidents were the sieges of Louisbourg and the final demoli- tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to the Province of Nova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, and continued as such until 1820, when it was reannexed to Nova Scotia. In 1815 Cape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1S71 its popula- tion amounted to 75,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- tish Highlands. 33. The Strait of Canso. The Gut of Canso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of Canso, is a picturesque passage which connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from the shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous covered with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce seems worthy of its poetic appellation of " The Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- raltar. It is not only the shortest passage between the Atlantic and the Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds and bad weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in great swirling eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by Dawson as " a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the drift period," and portions of its shores are of the carboniferous epoch. The Strait of Canso is tnversed by several thousand saiHog-vessels every year, and also by the large. steamers of the Boston and Colonial Steam-hip Company. "So with renewed anticipations we ride on toward the strait 'of unrivalled beauty,' that travellers say ' surpasses anything in America.' And, indeeU,Canseau can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. It is a grand marine highway, hav- ing steep hills on the Cape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other shore; a full, broad, mile-wide space between them; and reaching, from end to end, fifteen miles, from the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence.'' (Cozzexs.) Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the Nova-Scotian shores near Cope Canso (see page 134), whose lights and islands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and VV. N. W. towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry Island will be heard giving out its notes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm PORT HASTINGS. Route S3. 143 weather, and 5-8 M. in stormy weather and against the wind. On the 1. is Chedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guysborough, lined along its S. shore by hills 3 - 700 ft. high; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 28-30 M. beyond Cape Canso the vessel passes Eddy Point, on which are two fixed white lights (visible 8 M). On the starboard beam is Janvrin Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford Creek (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each other, and half-way up the strait. Fort Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the Nova-Scotia side of the strait. It is engaged in the fisheries, and has a harbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is found in the vicinity; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Hawkesbury, \ M. distant, in connection with the Halifax and Cape-Breton Railway, running down from New Glasgow, through Antigonish (sec page 138). Port Hawkesbury (Hawkesbury Uottl, comfortable; Acadia Hotel) is a village of about U00 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haven for vessels of 20-ft. draught, marked by a fixed red light on Tupper Point. This is the best harbor on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- tered appearance, and has four small churches. There are several wharves here, which are visited by the Boston and Halifax steamers, and other lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway has been surveyed to the latter point. The steam- ships that ply between Boston and Prince Edward Island weekly, call at Port Hawkesbury. Port Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 3 M. above Port Hawkesbury, on the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the bluffs over a small harbor in which is a Government wharf. From this point the Cape-Breton mails are distributed through the island by means of the stage-lines. The village is much smaller than Port Hawkesbury, and has a lucrative country-trade, besides a large exportation of fish and cat- tle to Newfoundland and the United States. It derives its chief interest from being the point where the Atlantic-Cable Company transfers its mes- sages, received from all parts of Europe and delivered under the sea, to the Western Union Telegraph Company, by which the tidings are sent away through the Dominion and the United States. The telegraph-office is in a small building near the strait The hotel at this village has been justly execrated in several books of travel, but occupies a"noble situation, overlooking, from a high bluff, the Strait of Canso for several miles to the S. E. Near this building is the consulate of the United States, over which floats the flag of the Republic. 144 Route $3. CANSO. Nearly opposite Port Hastings is the bold and shaggy headland of Cape Porcupine, attaining a height of 040 ft., and contracting the strait to its narrowest part. The stream now widens slowly, with 16-20 fathoms of water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a lighthouse, which sustains a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft, above the water, and visible from Cape St. George to Port Hood. Canso was in the earlier days called Campseau, or Canseau, and the word is derived from the Indian Catnsoke, which signifies " facing the frowning cliffs." It is also claimed that the name is derived from the Spanish word Ganso, signifying '' goose," in allusion to the great flocks of wild geese eometirr.es wen here. Hero the Miemac traditions locate the marvellous transit of the divine Glnoscap (fee page 106), who was stopped by these deep waters while on his way to attack a mighty wiz- ard in Newfoundland. He summoned from the sen a whale, who bore him across the strait, like a new Arion, and landed him on the Breton shores. For many years the Stniit of Canso was called the Passage Ue Ftonsae, on all the old French maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur de Fronsac, the able and enter- prising Governor of Cape Breton; and in 1518, over a century before Plymouth was founded, it was visited by the Baron do Lery, who designed forming a settlement on these shores, and left a considerable number of swine and cattle here. Savalctte frequented this vicinity, for the purposes of fishing, from the year 1563; and in 1604 De Monks found here four Bosque ships (from St. Jean de Luz) trading with the Indians. Three years later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- ble hostility of the Indians by rifling the graves of their dead in order to strip off the heaver-skins in which the corpses were wrapped Pontgrave cruised about these waters for a Ion; time, protecting the monopolized fur-trade. A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at the harbor of Canso. In 1688 the Canso station and the sedentary fishery were plundered by an expedition from Boston, consisting of a crew of West-Indian pri- vateersmen. They entered these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a barealonga, and carried away a French ship from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the New-England fishermen occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings and warehouses. Iu 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by powerful Indian bands, and completely plundered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their vessels. They loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raid, and then retired to the forest. In 1722 the Massachusetts fishing-vessels were captured here by the Indians, and were followed by armed vessels of that Province, who retook them after a naval battle. H M.S. Squirrel seized some illegal French traders herein 1718; and in 1724 a prize-vessel was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso, and all its crew were killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New England bad 1,500 - 2,000 men here in the fisheries, and in 1733( 46,000 quintals of dry fish were exported hence. When the war-clonds were lowering, in 1737, the British had 100 soldiers in garrison here, and H. M. S. Ettham was kept in the Strait as a guard- ship. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Can.-o at the head of 670 men, French Aca- dians and Micmaes, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 1745 Peppcrell reached Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and New-Hampshire and Connecti- cut regiments, and here he remained for some weeks, drilling his men and erecting fortifications. At a later day Commodore Warren arrived here with the British West-Indian fleet, the Superb, 60, Launceston, 40, Mermaid, 40, Ettham, and other ships. The British war-vessel Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Canso In 1781, when she met two Marblehead privateers. Securing a favorable position near Petit de Gnit, a shore-battery was formed, and the cutter was anchored with springs on her cable. After a sharp action, one of the privateers was crippled and forced to surrender, and the other made haste to escape. The Americans were paroled at Petit de Gnit, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. After the close of the American Revolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso was occupied by a colony of Loyalists from Florida, who suffered terribly from the com- parative inclemency of the climate. The present inhabitants of these shores are mostly of Scottish descent, a hardy and intrepid people. So late as the year 1787 there was not one settler on the Breton side of the strait, and the immigration has mostly occurred during the present century. AEICHAT. Route S4. 145 31 Arichat and Isle Madame. A mail-stage runs daily from Port Hawkesbury to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., passing near the sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French fishing-settlement of Grand Digue, the passenger is ferried across the Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle Madame from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. Isle Madame is 16 M. in length from E. to W., and about 5 M. in breadth. Its surface is very irregular, though of but moderate elevation, and the central part is occupied by a small lake. It was settled over a century ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the land, and are pious Catholies and daring seamen. In 1760 the French explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who live as they can," on a sterile soil, aud barely maintained by some petty fisheries. He closes his account by saying, '' We quitted this country with no regret, except that we must leave there so many miserable people." Arichat (two indifferent inns) is the capital of Richmond County, and is the most important fishing-station between Halifax and St. John's, New- foundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- ments on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- camp, Gaspe\ and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located here, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the steep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by Jerseyman Island, and is "capable of containing any number of the largest ships." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- vided with a chime of bells, and is the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of Arichat, whose diocese inclndes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova Scotia. It is claimed that "The Sisters of the Congregation of Notre Dame, of Montreal, have a grand and flourishing academy for female edu- cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is the Richmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There are also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- ners through the Crid Passage and into the harbor. To the W. is the settlement of Little Arichat, extending along the coast for several miles, and having undeveloped coal deposits. There are over 1,600 inhabitants in this town, all of whom are French. 3-4 M. E. of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, with nearly 2 000 inhabitants; and D'Escoime is another place of similar pursuits, on the other side of the Bay of Rocks. 7 J 146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. By the way of the land, through St. Peter's. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hawke?bury every morning, some time after the arrival of the Antigonish stage, and runs E. and N. E. to Sydney. Fare, ff 5. This is one of the most arduous routes by which Sydney can be approached, and leads through a thinly settled and uninteresting country until St. Peter's is reached. Beyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d'Or and St. Andrew's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. Distances. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Hawkesbury to Grand Anse, 21 M.: St. Peter's. 35; Red Island, 62; Irish Cove. 64; Sydney. 100. There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the journey. After leaving Port Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing E. to the River Inhabitants. Crossing that stream where it begins to nar- row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon it reaches the narrow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay, on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Or side. At this point is situated the village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement near the bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open com- munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is £ M. long, 26 ft. wide, and 13 ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through. S. E. of St. Peter's are the bluff heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W. are the uninhabited highlands which are called on the maps the Sporting Mts. St. Peter's was founded by M. Denys, about the year 1636, to command the lower end of the Bras d'Or, as his post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. lie built a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several cannon. The Indians residing on the most remote amis of the Bras d'Or were thus enabled to visit and carry their furs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property here, was captured soon after by a naval force sent out by M le Borgne. But in 1656 Denys retook his posts, guarded by a charter from King Louis. A few years later St. Peters was captured by La Girandiere, but was afterwards restored to Denys, who, however, abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed by fire. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, the commandant at Louisbourg; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, it was captured and plundered by Col. Moulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1752 St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Micmaes, and was sur- rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulouse, and was connected with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count de Raymond. Besides the garrison of French troops, there was a civil population of 230 souls; and in 1760 Port Toulouse bad grown to be a larger town than even Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded the Count de Ray- mond for constructing his military road, saying that it would afford the English an opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. Peter's are the UArdoist settlements (so named because a slate-quarrv was once worked here). In 1750 there was a large French village here, with a garrison of ranch villa THE BRAS D'OR, Route 35. 147 troops, and L'Ardolse was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Indians. At Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set- tlement would indicate, were history silent, that the towns beyond that point were originally founded by the French. They are now occupied exclusively by the Scotch, whose light vessels put out from the harbors of Grand River, L'Archcveque, St. Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. A few miles N. K. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Reserva- tion nerr Louis Cove. Chapel Island is a little way off shore, and is the largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs Bask. and Tomma, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel where all the Micmaes of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, otf which are the Red Islands. "The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving Sydney you ride beside the Spanish River a short distance, until you come to the portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amidst pri- meval trees,— not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but familiar growths of maple, beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack,— imperishable for shipcraft; now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surface of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in alt its native grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime-'' (Cozzens.) About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the way-office and vil- lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10-12 M. S. E- across the highlands to the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond, a picturesque sheet of water 6-6 M. long, stndded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. N. of Loch Uist, and about 7 M. from the Bran d'Or, is a remarkable saline spring, containing in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodinm, 308 of chloride of cal- cinm, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesinm and potassinm. This water is singularly free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very efficient in cases of asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for visitors. About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 18-20 M. to the N. E., and is bordered by lines of bold heights. Near its N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 8 to 32 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- yond which is Cape Khumore. 3-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to Edoobekuk, 148 Route S6. THE BEAS D'OR. between the heights and the blue water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal village is called Escasoni, and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay now diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of Tweednogie. The aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses the narrow isthmus (4-5 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks Lake and the Spanish River, to the town of Sydney. Sydney, see page 150. 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. By the Sea. There are several routes by sea between Halifax and Sydney, the lares being S 8-10. The tourist should send a note to the steamship-agents, at Halifax, for par- ticulars. The easiest route from Boston is by steamship to Port Hawkesbury, on the Strait of Canso, and thence up the Bras d'Or. There are now several steamboats plying on the Bras d'Or, giving the best of facilities (from the Provincial point of view) for visiting the various ports and villa- ges of this lovely inland sea. Halifax Harbor, see page 93. The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, a cold, dark, and rock-bound coast, off which are submerged ledges on which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 28 and 29; but of its aspect from the sea the Editor can say nothing, as he was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night- After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- abucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Point, on Cape Breton, the open- ing is about 30 M. wide, inside of which are Isle Madame (Route 34) and St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after crossing this wide open- ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- out character, and is stndded with white fishing-hamlets. St. Esprit is visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast- About the middle of the lost century the British frigate Tilbury, 64, was caught on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work off, in spite of the utmost exertions of her great crew. The Tilbury Kocks, off St Esprit, still commemorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 sailors v crc cither drowned or killed by being dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 15 officers were saved from the waves by the French people of St. Esprit, who nour- ished and sheltered them with tender care. England and France being then at war, the survivors of the Tilbury's crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the French frigate Hcrmione. This vessel was, however, captured in the English Chan- nel , and the sailors were released. Beyond St. Esprit the coves of Framboise and Fourchu make in from CAPE BKETON. Route 36. 149 the sea, and above the deep inlet of Gabarus Bay the lighthouse of Louis- bourg (see Route 38) may perhaps be seen. In 1744 the French ships Notre Dame dela Delivrance, I.ouis £rasme, and Marquis d'Antin sailed from Callau (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure on board, con- cealed' under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off the Azores by the British privateers Prince Frederick and Duke, but during the 3 hours' action the Notre Dame escaped. Not daring to approach the French coast while so many hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- bourg. 20days later she sighted 3catari,aud it seemed that hur valuable cargo was already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S, by a British fleet, and became a prize. Among the people captured on the Noire Dame was Don Antonio d'Ulloa, the famous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Cape Breton. The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester, and their crews had great prize-money,—for over $4,000,000 was found oa tho Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. In 1756 the French frigate Arc-en-Ciel, 50, and the Amitii were captured in these waters by Il. B. M. ships Centurion and Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels Ifiros, 74, lllustre, 64, and two 36-gun frigates met H B. M. ships Grafton, 70, Net- tingham, 70, and the Jamaica sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark. The action was indecisive, and each fleet claimed that the other stole away at night. The loss of men on both sides was considerable. In May, 1745, a gallant naval action was fought hereabouts between the French ship-of-thc-line Vigilant and Com. Warren's fleet, consisting of the Superb (60-gun ship), and the Launceston, Mermaid, and Eltham (40-gua frigates). The Vigilant was carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisbourg, and met the Mer- maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and tied toward the squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the British fleet. Warren's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept his colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British shot, the rndder was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers of the crew wounded or dead. The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which maintain a uniform depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low headland, off which is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. There is an old French tradition to the effect that Verazzano, the eminent Floren- tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found a fortified settlement. But being snddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- age (in 1525). It is believed that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 1593; whereof it is written: "Here diners of our men went on land vpon the very cape, where, at their arrinall they found the spittes of oke of the Sauages which had roasted meate a little before. And as they viewed the countrey they saw diners beastes and foules, as blacke foxes, decres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, where her crew landed to get water, but were driven offshore by the Indians. The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and Basque fishermen, who in those days frequented these seas. Cape Breton was at that timo a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It was frequented by the Huguenot» about this time, and had large fleets engaged in the fisheries. By the changing of the course of tho Adour River, and the driftiog of sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken awaytand in 1841 ithad but 920 inhabitants. (IJietionnaire Encyclopidiquc.) In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Arran, came out with 60 colonists, 150 Route 36. SYDNEY. and founded a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The headstrong Scottish noble was arbitrary in his dealings with the French fishermen on the coast, and was soon attacked by a strong body of Normans. The armor-clad Scots for a time defended their fort bravely, but were at last compelled to surrender, and were carried off as prisoners, inclnding Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he possessed, and was sent to France in the hold of the Great St. Andrew. In 1725 the French frigate Z> Chameau, 60, was wrecked on Porto Nucvo Island, and all on board were lost. Among these unfortunate people were M de Chazcl, Intendant of Canada; M de Louvigny, Governor of Trois Itivieres, numerous other colonial dignitaries, and several ecclesiasties. '' This misfortune in the course of a single night brought more grief and loss upon the French colonies than they bad suffered during 20 years of warfare." (Charlevoix.) Scatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Cape Breton, and lies on the 46(li parallel of N. latitnde. It is a rock-bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and is a favorite resort of sea-birds. On the E. point is a powerful revolving whito light, and on the W. end is a fixed red light The Halifax and Syd- ney steamers sometimes run inside of Scatari, through the Main-a-Dieu (or Menadou) Passage, near the obscure fishing-hamlet of Main-a-Dieu. N. and W. of Scatari is the wide, deep, and unsheltered Mira Bay. After crossing the broad mouth of Mira Bay, the shallower bight of Cow Say is seen on the 1. The vessel steams to the N., by the dark and rug- ged rock of Flint Island, and then runs about N. W. by the great coal-dis- tricts of Glace Bay and Lingan (see Route 37). Rounding the lighthouse on Low Point (or Flat Point), she ascends Sydney Harbor, passing the mines and villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts and works, hamlets and churches, of the General Mining Association on the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. Bar, the opening of the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. Sydney, formerly the capital of the Island-Province of Cape Breton, occupies a favorable position on one of the finest harbors on the Atlantic coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 3,600 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-House of Cape Breton County. The principal article of trade is coal, of which vast quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, whence they are sent away on vessels. Cattle and provisions are also exported from this point to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- ing, surrounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier and a flag-staff. This little estate is the headquarters of the French fleet in the North At- lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is usually a frigate of this fleet lying off the village, and their bands fre- quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over the harbor from the old fort on Barrack Point. It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- can colonies, that it " is capable of containing the whole British navy." This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor by the best authority, Capt. p ^"Ik B. N., the marine surveyor who made the NORTH SYDNEY. Route 36. 151 Admiralty charts for the British North-American coast. The deep water continues above the wharves, and as far up as Sydney Bridge. Over 600 vessels called at this port in the summer of 1874, most of which were here freighted with coal. The harbor is usually ice-bound during the winter, from Jan. 1 to April 1, and on this account is less valuable than others more to the S. The town of Sydney is not attractive in its external aspects, though it is said that Its society is of a high order of culture and exclusive dignity. It possesses many of the social attributes of an old colonial capital, though them are now no vestiges of its former position save the descried barracks and decaying batteries. The stranger in Sydney will be able to see all that he cares to of the town in less than an hour, for it is devoid of interest, notwithstanding the prominent position which it holds in the world's marine intelligence and shipping news. Svdncy is 750 M. from New York, 000 M. from Boston, 240 M- from Halifax, 400 M. from St. John's (N. F.), and 720 M. from Quebec. Rail road-trains run from Sydney to Lo isbourg (see page 154) ; stages, to Lingan, Little Glace Bay, and Cow Bay; ferry-boats to N. Sydney ; steamboats to Baddeck, the Bras d'Or, and the Strait of Canso; and steamships to St. John's (Newfound- land), Halifax, etc. There are several small hotels and boarding-houses at Sydney and N. Sydney, but the large and comfortable hotel which the custom of the locality seems to warrant has not yet been built. The steamship officers can recommend the best stopping- places. North Sydney is 6 - 8 M. N. W. of Sydney, with which it is connected by the steam ferry-boat Lady of the Lake, making three trips daily. It is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, and the shipping-depots of the Sydney coal-mines. There are several taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point was for many months occupied by the hulks and wrecked vessels which were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. W. is the French Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and a road runs 30 M. S. W. over the uninhabited highlands of the peninsula of St. Andrews, to the Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. The harbor of Sydney was visited In 1587 by the English ship Hopewell, which drove out a Biscay an vessel and plundered all the fish-stages along the shore. Many savages here visited the ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, and their queene, to whom also we gaue coats and knines and other trifles. These Sauages called the harborow Cibo. In this place are the greatest multitnde of lobsters that euer we beard of; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw net aboue 140." This harbor soon received the name of Baie des Espagnols, be- cause during the troublous times of the 16th century, it was the favorite resort of the Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg was of the English, and St. Anne's of the French. In 1696 the French frigates UEnvieux and JrVo/onrf, commanded by the valiant Iberville, entered the harbor of Sydney, and summoned to its shores the Indian warriors of Cape Breton. A chosen force of Micmaes were soon embarked,and then they sailed away to the destruction of Pemaquid. This was also the station of the powerful French squadron under the Chevalier du Palais. After Admiral Walker's terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf (in 1711), the remainder of his fleet was gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war-vessels then assembled formed the most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in the roadstead, abreast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- scription erected on the shore: — "In nomine Patru, F#«, «' Spiritvs Saneti, Amen. Omnibus in Christi Fideli- bus Salutem. Anna, Dei Gratia, Magn. Britannia, Francia, el Hibernice, Regina,* 152 Route 37. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Totinsque America Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In Cujus harum insularum vulqo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimoninm, Hoc Erexit Monumtntum, Sua- Majestatis Servus, et Subditus fidelissimus, 1). Hovendcn Walker, Equcs Auraius, Omninm in America Karinm Regalinmt Tiozfeclus et Tiialassiarcha. Monte Septtmbris, Anno Satutis MDCCXI." The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) -was Major Desbarres,a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley, Lake George, Ticonderoga, Louisbourg. and Quebec. One of his chief steps was to select a site for the new capital of the Uland, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus established was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. "In the spring of 1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuylcr (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. Y.) came from Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the foiests, and erected buildings. In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the French frigates VAstice and VHermwnt (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- ing of the CJiarlestown, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack, 6, and the armed transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little Jack surren- dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it uot been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, who started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Vanikoro. 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.—The Sydney Coal- Fields. The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- nected with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 76c.). They are on the level land inclnded between the Little Bras d'Or and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- lage has a population of 2,500. The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E- of Sydney, and are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $500,000. The sea- shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 M. from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- ness. The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage from Sydney (15 M.; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied and fortified by the British early in the 18th century, and a garrison of 60 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal from this point, and several cargoes were sent away. During the summer THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all destroyed. The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $ 1). They are situated on Glace Bay and Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the most extensive on this coast. They are 22 51. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full sweep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during the Lord's-Day Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and many yet sadder relies of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint Island, bearing a revolving white light. The coal-beds of Cape Breton were first described by Denys, in 1672, and from 1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg -was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians by fortified outposts. The Abbe Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749.:' But this trade was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers " still carried on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased rapidly, and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. "In travelling from Hawkesbury to Port Hood, and Baddeck and back again, by the Bras d'Or Lakes, one traverses a country in some places thickly settled, but all apparently well settled by a nice of men physically the fcuperior of any other on the face of this continent. They are chiefly of Highland Scotch desceut, with a sprink- ling of French Canadians, and as a matter of course nearly all Roman Catholies in their religious belief. , . . The Cape Bretoners seem to be very prolific in the propaga- tion of their species. No immigration is wanted here; only give them time, and they will compass the same ends themselves. Nothing under ten children is consid- ered a large family, and those who fall short of this generally consider it necessary to explain the unusual circumstance." 154 Route 33, LOUISBOURG. 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg. Louisbourg is reached by railway (running occasional passenger-cars) from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs hence 15-18 M. N. E. along an in- teresting coast, to Cape Breton (see page 149), passing the hamlets of Big and Little Loran, "named in honor of the haughty house of Lorraine." Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated by the deep haven of Baleine Cove, and just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevot rising boldlv from the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dien the Mira Bay road passes the hamlet of Catalogue (18 M. from Sydney), at the outlet of the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the Mira River from the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, where the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 14 M. to Marion Bridge^ a Scot- tish settlement near the long and narrow Mira Lake. The road ascends thence along the valley of the Salmon River to the vicinity of Loch Uist and Loch Lomond (see page 147). Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and Mira Lakes. Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- bor is entered through a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white light on the N. E. headland, and is a capacious basin with 5-7 fathoms of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city. "The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (blown up by gunpowder), present a melancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capa- cious magazine, once the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- modious shelter for flocks of peacefut sheep, which feed around the burial-ground where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited; while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England became mistress of her colonies on the shores of the Western Atlantic. Desolation now sits with a ghastly pmile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the lond reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return in the dusky solitnde of eve to their singular folds.'* (MojrrcoKERT MarttO '' If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burytng-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of hundreds of brave New-Englanders. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm, sing an everlasting requiem over the graves of the departed heroes." (R Brown.) The port of Louisbourg was called from the earliest times Havre d PAngtois, but no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland and Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. O vide de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg; and the work of building the fortress was t">gun about 1720- THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 155 The powerful defences of'' the Dunkirk of America" were hurried to completion, and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louis- bourg. who.-»! towers rose like giants above the northern seas.'' Over 30,000,000 livres were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the forti- fications of Louisbourg; and numerous cargoes of building-stone were sent hither from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New- England vessels bore lumber and brirks to the new fortress; and the Acadi:ins fcut in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French }.roveriimeiit devoted all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of thefc fortifications. Inhabitants were drawn to the place In bounties: and Lunisbourg soon had a large trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 "impounders, on Goat Island; and by the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. On the landward eidi' was a deep moat and projecting bastions; and the great carecning-dock was opposite. The land and harbor tides of the town were defended by lines of rampart-! and bastions, ou which 80 guns were mounted; and the West Gate was overlooked by a battery of 10 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, nunuery, and hospital of St. Juan de Dieu. The streets crossed each other at right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a largo garrison. Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, gave the military command to Col Win. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,250 men; New Hampshire, 300; and Connecticut, 500; and George Whitcficld gave the motto for the army, " ,Y'7 desperandum, Christo dure,'' thus making the enterprise a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's West-India fleet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,500 militia, and the assailants were " 4,000 un- disciplined militia or volunteers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- tions, uever seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, .... and sadly deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor were set on fire by Vaughan'sNew-Hampshire men; and the black smoke drove down on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guns and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the West Gate, and a breaching battery was reared at night within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- tenable by the American cannonade. On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, Sunderland, Canterbury, and Princess Mary, 60 guns each; and the Launceston, Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and Ettham, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off the harbor; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours flying to the assault of the West Gate" But Gov. Duchambon saw these ominous preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage. "As the troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the first time sank within them. 'God has gone out of his way,' said they, ' in a re- markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French to give up and deliver this strong city into our hand-'" Pepperell attributed his success, not to his artillery or the fleet of linc-of-battle ships, but to the prayers of New Eng- land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. "The news of this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment." Boston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated; the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a baronet, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports; the siege-batteries were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls; and in the follow- ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian Smollet designated 156 Route SS. THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. the capture of Louisbourg, " the most important achievement of the war of 1745 "; and the authors of the " Universal History " considered it " an equivalent for all the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described (with maps) in Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton," pages 108-248. "That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only bv the smaller Province of New Hampshire; that tliey should equip both land and sea forces to attack a redoubtable fortress called by British officers impregnable,and on which the French Crown had expended immense sums; .... that 4,000 rustic militia, whose officers were as inexperienced in war as their men, although supported by naval forces, should conquer the regular troops of the greatest military power of the age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short of miracle." (Beamish Murdoch.) So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisbourg that the great French Armada was sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Host on. After the disastrous failure of this expedition (see page 99), La Jonquiere was despatched with 18 men-of-war and 28 other vessels, on the same errand, but was attacked by the fleets of Anson and Warren off Cape Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and 9 8,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargoes. In 1749 the war was ended, Louisbourg and Cape Breton were restored to France, and " after four years of warfare in all parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war ended just where it began." When war broke out again between England and France, in 1755, Louisbourg was blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-battle ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing 6,000 soldiers, to reduce the fortress; but France was too prompt to be surprised, and held it with 17 sail of the line and 10,000 men. The vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and then recoiled, aailed to Halifax, and soon broke up, sending the army to New York and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfort, to reinforce Louisbourg; but the Fondroyant, 84, the Orpheus, 64, and other vessels were captured. Six men-of-war and sixteen transports reached Louisbourg, with a great amount of military supplies. Great Britain now fitted out an immense fleet at SpUhead, consisting of the Namur, 90 guns; Royal William,80; Princess Amelia, 80; Terrible, 74; the North- umberland, Oxford, Burford, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each; the Devonshire, Bedford, Captain, and Prince Frederick, 64 each; the Pembroke, Kingston, York, Prince of Orange, Defiance, and Nottingham, 60 guns each; the Centurion and Sutherland, 50 each; the frigates Juno, Grammont, Nightingale, Hunter, Boreas, Hind, Trent, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Kennington, Scar- borough, Squirrel, Hawk, Beaver, Tyloe, and Halifax; and the fire-ships Etna and Lightning. There were also 118 transports, carrying 13,600 men, in 17 regiments. Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe was one of the briga- diers. This powerful armament soon appeared off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of June, 1758, the British troops landed atGabarus Bay, and pushed through the fatal Burf of Freshwater Cove, amid the hot fire of the French shore-batteries. After losing 110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French fell back on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege of 1745, and was defended by 3,400 men of the Artillery and the regiments of Volon- taires Etrangers, Artois, Bourgogne, andCambise, besides large bodies of militia and Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prndent, 74; Entreprenant, 74 j Capricieux, 64; r«7c&re,64; B'enfaisant, 64: Apollon, 50; Diane,36; Arithuse, 36; Fidele, 36; Echo, 32; Biehe, 16; and Chevre, 16. Wolfe's brigade then occupied the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the city, the French fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- stroyed by Wolfe's tremendous cannonade; and since the harbor was thus left unguarded, Gov. Drucour sank the frigates Diane, Apollon, Biche, Fidele, and Chdvre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erecting works on Green Hill and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French ramparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indians. During a bloody sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald and many of the Grenadiers were killed. The heavy siege-batteries were advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barracks. The magazine of the Entreprenant, 74, blew up, and the Capricieux and Celeore, THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route S8. 157 catching the fire Id their sails, were burned at their moorings. The Arithuse and Echo ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only two French frigates remained, and those were both captured by boats from the fleet, after a daring attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered the city, with 5,037 men, 23 j pieces of artillery, and immense amount» of stores and supplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the siege All England rang with the tidings of the fall of" the Dunkirk of America,'' special prayers and thanksgivings were read in all the churches of the kingdom; and 11 sets of colors from Louisbourg wore presented to tlic King at Kensington Palace, whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance on Anglo-American vessels fill at once from 30 to 12 per cent, because the French privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. In 1759 the great fleet nod army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at I-ouisbourg and sailed away to the Conquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louisbourg; so sappers and miners were scut therein the summer of 1700, and " in the short space of six months all the fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, —the walls and glacis levelled into the ditch, —leaving. In fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps of stones and rubbish. Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements,— in short, everything of the slightest value, even the hewn stones which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." The British garrison was withdrawn in 1708, and after the foundation of Sydney "the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France " was completely deserted by its people. During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would restore Louisbourg to more than its former importance. It is proposed to construct a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought that the freight and passenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements on the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- steamships, for whose use this safe and accessible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This port is on the 00th parallel of W. longitnde, and is 11 degrees E of Ronton and 14 de- grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. When the through railway Is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought that most of the better class, at least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save time and nearly 1,000 M of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taking the steamship here. Extensive surveys have already been made in this vicinity, and real estate In Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. "Raddeck was settled by Scotch Royalists, principally from the Highlands and the Islands of Mull, Lewis, and Skye. The people are prond of their descent, and still keep up many of their aucieut customs. Gaelic is yet the common language among those living in the back country, and, while nearly everybody understands it to some extent, there are many who cannot speak English. Every Sunday services are held In Gaelic, which are very interesting, — the singing especially is wild and thrill- ing. Once a year the annual * Scotch Gathering' takes place at Baddeck, and the various clans gather in all their forces, and lor one day the quiet little village is full of excitement. '1 he sounds of the fiddle and bagpipe are heard in every direction, and on wooden platforms the lads and lasses, with solemn visages, go through their flings in sets of four or eight. . . . The people raise very little grain or corn, but potatoes thrive. Strawberries ripen the latter part of July, and last until the mid- dle of August, when raspberries take their place. Some years they have very good apples in the last of September. The walks and drives through the country are very interesting, not only from the beauty of the scenery, but also for the insight into the quaint, old-fashioned homes of the descendants of the Highlanders. They show true Scotch hospitality, will not take pay for food or drink, but ask you in their bouses, and say 'please yourself, mon,' with everything inside, and if you desire to purchase anything will ask five times its value.'' (Chandler ) 158 RouUS9. ST. ANNE'S BAY. 39. The North Shore of Cape Breton. — St. Anne's Bay and St Paul's Island. Conveyances may be hired at Baddeck (see page 162) by which to visit St. Anne's. The distance is about 10 M. to the head of the harbor. The first part of the way leads along the shores of Baddeck Bay, with the promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. The road then crosses a cold district of dennded highlands, and descends to the * Valley of St. Anne. As the harbor is approached, the traveller can see the amphitheatrical glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of the people arc held. These quaint Presbyterian camp-meetings are said to bo a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The shores of the harbor were occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among the tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt., which is 1,070 ft. high, and pushes forward cliffs 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. '' There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne's harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, delicious air," arc found here in abundance. About opposite the light- house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Point, on which the French batteries were established. Near this point is the hamlet of EnglishtowTii chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous "Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown are over 1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. Imray's Sailing Directions states that" on the N. side the land is very high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may reach the fresh water." As to the harbor, the ancient description of Charlevoix still holds good: — "Port Stc. Anne, as already stated, has before it a very sure roadstead between the Cibou Islands. The port is almost completely closed by a tongue of land, leav- ing passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly two leagues in circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can everywhere approach the land, and scarcely perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding mountains. .... The Ashing is very abundant; great quantities of good wood are found there, such as maple, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building and masts, being 28- 3S ft high; marble is common; most of the land good, — in Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half ofT, the soil is very fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers." In St. Anne's Bay the English ship Chanctwti l waa wrecked In 1597, and while she lay aground " there came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men euen to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauage manner; whcrcas they should rather as Christians haue aided them in that distresse." In ltr29 this harbor was occupied by the Great St. Andrew and the Marguerite, armed vessels of France, whose crews, together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to command the entrance. It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was garrisoned by 40 men. The commander of the lleet rained the arms of the King and of Cardinal Richelieu over its walla, and erected a chapel, for whose care he left two ■lieu over its w INGONISH. Route 39. 159 Jesuits. lie then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that winter more than one third of the troops died of the scurvy, and the commandant assas- sinated his lieutenant on the parade-ground. In 1034 the Jesuits founded an In- dian mission here, but both this and the garrison were afterwards withdrawn. Some years later a new battery and settlement were erected here by Nicholas Denys,Sieur de Fronsac, who traded hence with the Indians of the N. of Cape Breton. The Tallcy of the N. Arm of St. Anne's was granted, in 1713, to M. de Rouville, a captain in the infantry of France, and brother of that Hertcl de Itouvillc who led the forces that destroyed Schenectady, Deerfield, and Haverhill. The N. Arm was long called Kouville's River. At a later day Costabelle, Beaucourt, Soubras, and other French officers had fishing-stations on the bay. In 17-1.") a frig-tte from Coin. Warren's licet (then blockading I*ouisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all the property on its shores. St. Anne's Hay was afterwards called Port Dauphin by the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. The perfect security of the harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Anne's. The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges from the St. Anne road before reaching the harbor, and bears to the N. E., along the W. Branch. It rounds the North-River Valley by a great curve, and then sweeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — "The mountain! look on Marathon, And Marathon looks on the sea." "Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which furrow the hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped with the clond from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the far-distant hori- ton." (Brown.) The prond headland of Cape Smoky (the Cap Enfumi of the French) is 950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the W. there are peaks 1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- sive hills, and facing Cape Smoky, is the village of Ingonish, inhabited by Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. Ingonish was one of the early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church Tvas built here, whose foundations only remain now; and in 1S49 a church-bell, marked St. Malo. 1729, and weighing 200 pounds, was found buried in the sands of the beach. The settlement here was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces In 1740 Ingonish was the second town on the island, and its fleet caught 13,500 quintals of fish. It was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com. Warren's fleet. The highland region back of Ingonish has always beeu famous for its abundance of game, especially of moose and caribou. In the winter of 17S9 over 9,000 mooso were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each; and for many years this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew when they wcro approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by the occupation of Ingonlih by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain the 160 Route 39. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. moose-hunters at whatever cost. Of Into yean the moose have been nearly exter- minated by city sportsmen and by the Indians, who kill them while helplessly en- tangled in the deep snow-drifts. The scenery between Baddeck and Ingonish resembles that of the North of Scotland, but is even more picturesque. Many officers from the Halifax garrison have sought its moose and trout. The highway ends at Ingonish, and a trail crosses the mountains to the N. N. W. to Aspy Bay, an open bight of the sea, into which several large lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked off this bay early in the pres- ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy storms. In 1856 the first Atlantic Cable was landed here. On the N. W. shore of Aspy Bay is the lofty Sugar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cape North runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. high. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two points is the&*. Lawrence Bay, on whose remote shores are about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North are nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, Newfoundland, the distance is 65 M., and through this wide strait is the middle entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. St. Paul's Island. St. Paul's Island is 13 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- rounded by tall cliffs which reach far below the water, and indented by the Trinity and Atlantic Coves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries around the island are very valuable; and the adjacent waters are of great depth, and form a constant current to the S. E. St. Paul's Island has 9 inhabitants; a fixed white light (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point; a pro- vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove; a steam fog-whistle in Atlantic Cove; and on the S. point a revolving white light of the first class, visible for 20 M. This island has been one of the most fatal points on the Atlantic coast, stretching, as it does, across euch an important route of marine travel. Thousands of lives have been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anchors, chains, and other relies of disaster were found in the neighboring waters. The Acadians of Cheticamp used to visit the island every spring, in order to secure the valuable parts of cargoes and v. recks which the sea threw up on the shore. Among the largest of the vessels lost here were the Horatio, Canada, Duncan, Venus, a transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steam ship Norwegian, and the ship Jessie. The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 30 of her people were lost; but 11 reached the shore, and wandered about until they were all frozen to death. With the present system of lights, whistles, and cannon, most of the danger of this island is removed. "A dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist, one of nature's peniten- tiaries, which no living man would own, and so has been deeded to St. Paul: Mclita Is Eden to it. The saints, it appears to me, have been gifted with the ruggedest odds and ends. Wherever, ou all these cast-iron shores, there is a flinty promontory, upon which Prometheus himself would have shnddered to be chained, there the name of an apostle has been transfixed. Yonder is Cape North, the stony arrow- head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitndinous group of mountain head- lands, draped with gloomy grandeur, against the black cliffs of which the surf is now firing its snowy rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- turesque isle Steep and lofty, its summits are darkened by steepled evergreens,and its many sides gashed with horrid assures and ravines." (L. L. Noale.) THE BRAS D'OR LAKES. Route 40. 161 40. The Bras d'0r Lakes. The "Inland Routt" between Sydney and Halifax. There are several steamers plying on the Bras d'Or, milking daily trips in siimnicr. They leave Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canto, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train, and run out eastward, by Isle Madame, and up St. Peter's May. Traversing the recently completed St. Peter's Canal by St.. Petrr's village, the holt-' descend St.. Peter's Inlet, bv Chapel Island and the Micmac Indian Reservation (for all this region, see pages 146-7), and run out into the Great Bras d'Or After visiting the various ports on the lakes, they round Point Aenni, and run around to Sydney daily. The agent at Halifax can give particulars of sailings, etc.. The construction of the rail- way from New Glasgow to the Strait, and of the canal, have made the Bras d'Or very accessible, and removed the trials which hedged about this delightful trip The routes taken down the lakes are various. We give the old route of the Nep- faute, although the usual jouruey now is down the Great Bras d'Or. After leaving the wharves of Sydney, the steamer passes up to N. Syd- ney, where she makes a short stop, then runs to the N. E. out of Sydney Harbor, with the shafts and villages of the Sydney Mines on the 1. After rounding Cranberry Head the course is N. W. for 8-9 M., in the ocean, passing the surf-beaten Bird Hock on the 1., while the stately mountains towards St. Anne's and Ingonish (see page 159) are seen in advance. When within 2-3 M. of Point Aconi the vessel turns in to the 1., and soon enters the strait called the * Little Bras d'Or, a narrow and river-like pas- sage through which the tide sweeps rapidly, and which is impassable for large craft. The water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so tortuous and landlocked is the channel; and there are several small and picturesque hamlets on the shore, mostly inhabited by immigrants from the Hebrides. On the r. side of the channel is Boularderie Island, which is about 35 M. long by 2 - 8 M. wide, and supports a small farming population. In 1713 this rich and beautiful island was granted by the French Crown to M. de la Boularderie, an officer of the French navy, who had greatly dis- tinguished himself in the defence of Port Royal and of Placentia. It is now occupied by Highlanders, who number about 1,300, and have several small hamlets. On the N. end of the island is the coal-field of Point Aconi, which has not been operated for several years. The * Great Bras d'Or is the channel on the W. side of Boularderie, and is always used by ships and large coasters bound into the lakes. It has from 5 to 38 fathoms of water, and is much grander in scenery than is the E. channel. The lake-steamers usually traverse this strait, rounding Point Aconi, and approaching the sea-repelling mountains of St. Anne's and Ingonish. On the N. are seen the Ciboux Islands, sheltering St. Anne's Bay (see page 158), and marked by a revolving red-and-white light, which is visible for 14 M. On the r. the dark and wind-swept Cope Dauphin is approached, terminating, in a peak 1,045 ft. high, the massive ridge which occupies the peninsula of St. Anne. Beyond the lighthouse on Black Rock Point (1. side), the steamer passes through a strait £ M. wide, and then enters the Great Bras d' Or, which is 1 - 3 M. wide, and is followed to the 162 Route 40. BADDECK. S. W. for nearly 30 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the high- lands of Boularderie. The Neptune soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or and enters a broader bay. Beyond Grove Point it reaches a beautiful sound which is followed for 25 M., and is 3-4 M. wide. (It is called St. Andrew's Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- plied to the East Bay.) Near George Mt., on the I., are the low shores of Long Island; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- dale. The course is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, the S. extremity of Boularderie Island, and passes Coffin Island on the r., beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course is nearly N. W., and lies between Red Point (r. side) and Mackay Point (1. side), which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeok, while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St Patrick's Channel to the 1. Baddeok ( Telegraph Bouse, comfortable; Bras aV Or Botel) is the capi- tal of Victoria County, and the chief village on the Bras d'Or. It has three churches, a court-house, and a quaint little jail, and is the centre of a group of farming-settlements whose aggregate population is 1,749. The harbor can accommodate vessels of 600 tons, and from this point several cargoes of produce are annually sent to Newfoundland. Gold has been found in the vicinity, and there is a saline spring farther down the shore. This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the name Bedeque, since Scotticized to Baddeck (accent on the last syllable). It was first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Royal Rangers, and in 1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. w Although it was Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddeck was a clean- looking village of white wooden houses, of perhaps 7-800 inhabitants; that it stretched along the shore for a nnle or more, straggling off into farm-houses at each end, lying for the most part on the sloping curve of the bay. There were a few country-looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a few schooners lay at anchor near them; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peaceful and perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place "Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness continued. I have no doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to ■ail; but the tourist felt that be had come into a place of rest. The promise of the red sky the evening before was fulfilled in another royal day. There was an inspira- tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, it seemed like soma new and gentle compound of sea-air and land-air, which was the perfection of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to flow over all these Atlantic isles at this season, one endures a great deal of exercise with little fatigue; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Mere living Is a kind of happiness, and the easy-going traveller is satisfied with little to do and less to see. Let the reader not understand that we are recommending him to go to Baddeck. Far from it There are few whom it.would pay to go a thousand miles for the sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the sun goes down, and watching the purple lights on the islands and the distant hills, the red flush on the horizon and on the lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can see all this as well elsewhere? I am not so sure. There is a harmony of beauty about the BADDECK. Route 40. 163 Bros d'Or at Baddeck which is lacking in many scenes of more pretension." (Charles Dudlky Warner's Baddeck; and that Sort of Thing.) The tourist who stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which occupies a grassy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of the Micmac tribe, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received with a not unkindly indifference, and may here stndy Indian domestic life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the wigwam. Some of the people can talk English. The visitor should en- deavor to see one of the Micmac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at the Trappist mon- astery in Tracadic. The camp at Baddeck is broken up in the autumn and the people retire to their reservations near the hunting-grounds. The Micmaes of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic coast. They number about 1,600 (and 1,400 in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservations in the Province, where they are cared for and protected by the Dominion govern- ment. Under this paternal care (strongly contrasting with the Indian policy of the United States) the aborigines are steadily increasing in numbers and approaching a better standard of civilization, and are loyal and useful subjects of their '' great mother," Queen Victoria. The discipline of families is well preserved by the use of corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and the subordination of the women is still maintained, though ameliorated by the in- fluences of civilization. The Micmaes have exchanged their former belief in and worship of the hostile principles of good and evil for the creed of the Roman Cath- olic Church, of which they are devout communicants. Their language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Gaelic race, and Is said to be '' copious, flexible, and expressive." Philologists have also traced a marked analogy between the Greek and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp rebuke to Kenan's flippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America. Baddeck to Whycocomagh, see Route 41. Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to the forks of the Big Baddeck River, where trout are found. To the N. are the Baddeck Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- tends for 100 M. to the N., as far as Cape North, with a breadth of 15-25 M. This mountain-region has been a favorite hunting-ground for moose and caribou, which are now carefully preserved by Provincial game-laws; and it also contains bears, wolves and foxes, rabbits and hares, beaver, mink, and muskrats. The Mar gar ee River may be reached from Baddeck (in 28 M.) by a picturesque road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Hunter's Mt., with fine views over the Bras d'Or. The pleasant rural district of the Middle Valley is then traversed, and the road leads through a remark- able pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the Margaree, famous for its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usually board in the farm-houses, where plain and substantial fare is given. The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeck, and is approached by the Whyco- comagh road (Route 41)- The valley has over 1,000 inhabitants, of the Gaelic High- land race, many of whom are unacquainted with the English language. Near their settlements are prolific trout-streams, where fine sport may be enjoyed In the early summer. The chief settlements are respectively 12, 13, and 16 M. from Baddeck, and near the head of the river is an undeveloped gold district. A few miles up this 164 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. river is '' a Gaelic settlement of farmers. The river here flows through lovely mead- ows, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of the few peaceful inhabited spots in the world. Z could conceive of no news coming to these High- landers later than the defeat of the Pretender." In 1801 the total population of the Island of CapaBreton was 2,513, inclnding Englishmen, Acadians, and Micmaes. In 1802 the first emigrant-ship arrived at Sydney from Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have landed and settled on this island. They rapidly 6pread over the W. coast and occu- pied the shores of the Kras d'Or and its connected waters, and Cape Breton is now, and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland clans and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it more profitable to devote their estates to cattle-raising than to maintain the old ten- antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their hold- ings and their ancient homes to make room for deer-parks or sheep-farms among the glens. Driven forth against their will, they crossed the Atlantic to settle on the New-World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. "Many who had friends in the colonies, and knew what they had to expect, emigrated with great alacrity; but thousands, who had no such desire, on the contrary the greatest repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiar hills, and the green elopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by a thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is peculiarly adapted to develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- ations of the climate, which range from 32° below zero to 96° above. The descend- ants of these immigrants are superior to the native Highlanders, both physically and mentally, and pay more attention to the education of their children and to the general estate of the nation. On leaving Baddeck the steamer runs out around Mackay's Point, and ascends the * Little Bras d' Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water is 6-6 M. wide, and is bordered on the E. by the peninsula of St. Andrew and the hills back of Sunacadie and Christmas Island, and on the W. by the highlands of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. "The most electric American, heir of all the nervous diseases of all the ages, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beauty, and sail on into a great and deepening contentment. Would the voyage could last for an age, with the same sparkling but tranquil sea, and the same en- vironment of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away in lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to carry the imagination beyond the earth. "Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we had taken passage to the Fortunate Isles It was enough to sit on deck forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the delicious day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery always present, sin in this world would soon become an impossibility." (Warner's Baddeck.) 12-15 M. from Baddeck is the * Strait of Barra (or Grand Narrows), so named because the inhabitants of the adjacent shores came from the island of Barra, in the Hebrides. The strait is picturesque, and is 2 M. long and 1 M. wide. On the shore are a conspicuous Catholic church and a lighthouse; and the inhabitants are nearly all Campbells and McNeils. The steamer now enters the * Great Bras d'Or Lake, a noble expanse of water with a depth of from 15 to 57 fathoms. It is difficult to state its THE BRAS D'OR. Route JO. 165 size, on account of the numerous deep bays, but from the Strait of Rarra to the S. shore it is 18 M. long (N. and S.), and from Malagawdatchkt it is nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to the head of East Bay, a vessel could sail in a straight course nearly 50 M, '' The Bras d'Or is the moat beautiful salt-water lake I have ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a body of salt water could be The water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bringing into the recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the Havor of salt, and the fish and mollusks of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a fresh- water lake. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh-water lake, with all the advan- tages of a salt one. In the streams which run into it arc the speckled trout, the shad, and the salmon; out of its depths are hooked the end and the mackerel, and in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about 100 M. long, if you meas- ure it skilfully, and in some places 10 M. broad; but so indented is it, that I am not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never more than 5-600 ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and offer everywhere pleasing lines." (Warner's Batttteek) Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the River Denys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, whence the Portage Inlet runs N. to within £ M. of the Whycocomagh Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, and is sometimes visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River Denys debouches into the S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham- lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants each, situated on the basins and the river, most of the people being from the Western Isles of Scotland. The ancient Indian name for the Bras d'Or was Bideauboch; St. Patrick's Channel was called Onamech; the River-Denys Basin, Mirminiguash; the West Bay, Paquc* lacaUie; and the East Bay, Piseabouaxh. For the convenience of trading with the numerous Indians who inhabited these shores, M. Denys established his forts at St. Peters and St. Anne's; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where "Escnsoni s fountains Pour down their crystal tide." The beautiful basin and river of Denys were named in honor of their discoverer, Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1654, '' Governor and Lieu tenant-General " of Cape Breton and the adjacent shores. When the steamer is about 4 M. from the Strait of Barra, Benacadie Point is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10- 12 M. below the strait is the opening of the long and sinuous harbor of Malagawdatchkt^ which approaches the marble formations of the western highlands, and has a village of 350 in- habitants. To the S. E. arc the islands off St. Peter's Inlet. Opening away on the right is the S. W. arm of the Great Bras d'Or, which is called the West Bay, or St. George's Channel, and is about 15 M. long and 7 M. wide. It contains numerous islands, and is separated from 166 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. the Rircr-Denys Basin bj a range of massive highlands on the N. The N. shore hills arc 700 - 770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 250 - 620 ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited, and the only hamlets are at the head. "The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or offered us before we reached West Bay was the finest show of medusjc or jelly-fish that could be produced. At first there were dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, starring the water like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon run into a school of them, a convention, a herd as extensive as the vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water like the leaves of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beautiful contracting and expanding forms I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes in all the world." (Warner's Badder.k.) ''The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rocky cliffs and escarpments rise in some places abruptly from the water's edge; in others, undulating or rolling hills predominate, fringed on the shores by low white cliffs of gypsum or red conglomerate; whilst the deep basins and channels, which branch off in all directions from the central expanse of waters, stndded with innumerable islets covered with a rich growth of spruce and hemlock, present views the most picturesque and diversified imaginable" (Brown.) "The scenery of this vast inlet is in some places beautifully picturesque, and in some others monotonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad valleys and wooded mountains, and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning in stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers and inlets.ii (M'Grecor.) "So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a coasting journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlantic. Besides the distant mountains that rise prondly from the remote shores, there are many noble islands in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscape there broods a spirit of primeval solitnde For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- less piece of water in this part of the world; highly favored as it is by nature, land- locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of acce=s on the Gulf side, free from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of land, about J M. wide; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum,and valuable for its fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for want of that element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.'' (Cozzens.) "The climate of Baddeck In summer is delightful, the nights being always cool and the heat of the day never oppressive; on only one occasion last July did the thermometer indicate 80°. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown in lower latitndes during the summer months. . . . The water-view is one of the finest to be found on the Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d Or, here seven or eight miles wide. are apparently hemmed in by ranges of mountains, which in some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plaster or gypsum, worn by the action of water into strange and fantastic forms. Thesc white cliffs, fringed with dark evergreens, form, with the red conglomerate and bright green fields stretching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- priately framed with long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of the sea, has here a tide of only from six to eighteen inches, so that those fond of aquatic pursuits are not burdened with a head current when homeward bound." (CHAKdLER.) ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. Ro.de 41. 167 41. Baddeck to Mabou aDd Port Hood. — St Patrick's Channel and Whycocomagh. This route is traversed by the Royai mail-stage on Monday and Wednesday, leav- ing Baddeck at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Mabou at 9 p. m. The distance is about 50 M.: the fare is 3 2 50. The Royal mail-stage on this route is a ouc-horsc wagon with a single scat, so that the accommodations for travel are limited. Mr. Warner thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " From the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in coustant sight of its imignificeut water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill- side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands Sometimes we opened upon a broad water plain bounded by the Watchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over hill after hill receding into the soft and hazy blue of the land beyond the great mass of the Bras d'Or. The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Bay of Naples and the Cornice Road; we did nothing of the sort; we held on to the seat, prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression to our wonder and delight." St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is made highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its general course is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Little /farrows, about which there arc 150 inhabitants. A road leads N. W. 5 M into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Alnslle Lake, which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River Its shores are broken and rugged, and arc occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page 169). Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M- long and 3-5 M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make their way, and are here laden with timber for Europe. On his second trip up this Basin, the Editor was startled, on rounding a promontory, at seeing a large Liverpool ship lying here, at anchor, with her yard-arms almost among the trees. The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt Mt*, a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive views are gained from its upper reaches. The water is of a rich blue, partly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 20 fathoms. Whycocomagh (Inverness House) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, 168 RouU 42. WHYCOCOMAGH. whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6-8 ft, high; and foxes are often seen among the hills. It ia claimed that valuable deposits of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. Stages run 30 M. S. VV. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tamo and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line. "What we first saw whs an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the driver Hogamah Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs of graceful hills, like the tapes ot" some poitic sea-coast .... A peaceful place, this Whycocomagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music all along the quiet street; the bay lay smiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- theatre of hills rose beyond." (Warner's Baddeck.) On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skyt Glen, a long, narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley, with the mountainous mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glitter- ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mabou. The stage for Port Hood (10 M. S.) leaves at noon, reaching Port Hastings at 7.30 P. M. (see Route 42). The Bras d'Or steamer ascends St. Patrick's Channel to Whycocomagh every week, on its alternate trips passing around from Sydney to the Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, $ 2). This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most striking phases. 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton.—Port Hood and Mar- garee. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastings every evening, at about 4o'clock, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, S2; $ 1 by steamer, in summer. Distances- — Port Hastings to Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9; Long Point, 14; Jndiqne, 18; Little Jndique, 24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38; Broad Cove Inter- vale, 66; Margaree Forks, 68j Margaree, 76; Chcticamp, 88. The first portion of this route is interesting, as it affords frequent pleas- ant views of the Strait of Canso and its bright maritime processions. The trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W.. and a suc- cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Jitdiquct inhab- PORT HOOD. Route 42. 169 ited by Scottish Catholies, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. The Jndiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Jndique usually come off victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- itants. Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- Englanders, in 1790. "This port affords the only safe anchorage on the W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Offshore is Smith's Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which arc the high shores of Heury Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see page 167). Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached by a daily stag* passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of Lake Ainslie (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets among the glens. "The angter who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the shores of the lake, launehed his canoe upon its broad waters, and enlered its swiftly running stream, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its very mouth." A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of Brand Cute Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to the Gulf abreast of Sea- Wolf island,on whose cliffs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 8 170 Routt 42. MAKGAREE. high. Margaret Forks is a rural village at the junction of the N- E. and S- W. Branches of the famous Margaree River, where salmon abound from June 15 until July 15, and rare sea-trout fishing is found. "In Cape Breton the beautiful Margaree is one of the most noted streams for sea- trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, winding through intervale mead- ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and backed by wooded hills over a thousand feet in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf.'' There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population of over 4,000. Margaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the Chimney-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fleet of fishing-vessels. A shore-road runs N. E. 12 M. to Cheticamp, a district containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian race. It is a fishing station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 1784, and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor is suitable for small vessels, and is formed by Cheticamp Island, sheltering the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. at sea. N. E. and E- of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of the N. part of Cape Breton (sec page 163), an unexplored and trackless land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and the most northerly point of the Province, Cape St. Lawrence (see page 159), is 30 M. N. E. by E. £ E. from the N. part of Cheticamp Island. The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape Breton and in the darrow seas to the W., towards Prince Edward's Island and the Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C- Sted- man. The L.ord'8-Day Gale. In Gloucester port lie Ashing craft,— More staunch and trim were never seen: They ore sharp before and sheer abaft. And true their lines the musts between. Alone the wharves of Gloucester Town Their fares are tightly landed down. And the laden flakes to sunward lean. Well know the men each cruising-ground, And where the cod and mackerel be: Old Eastern Point the schooners round And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee: Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold, That brave December's surges cold On George's shoals in the outer sea. And some must sail to the hanks far north And set their trawls for the hungry cod,— In the ghostly fog creep back anil forth By shronded paths no foot hath trod; Uoon the crews the ice-winds blow. The bitter sleet. the frozen snow. — Their Uvea are in the band of God: New England! New England! Needs sail they must. so brave and poor. Or June be warm or Winter storm. Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door I Three weeks at home, three long months gone. While the patient good-wives sleep alone. And wake to hear the breakers roar. The Grand Bank gathers in its dead, — The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet; Who does not George's billows dread That dash together the drifting fleet? Who does not long to hear, in May, The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Day, The fairest ground where fishermen meet? There the west wave holds the red sunlight Till the bells at home are rung for nine: Short, short the watch, and calm the night. The fiery northern streamers shine; The eastern sky anon is gold. And winds from piny forests old. Scatter the white mists oil'the brine. THE LORDS-DAY GALE. Route 42. 171 New England! New England! Thou Invest will thine ocean mnin I It spreadeth its locks anutna thy rocks, And Ion? "pa'tiSt "'.V heart hath lain; Thy ships upon its bosom ride And feel the heaving of i" li'*«: To thee its secret speech is plain. Cape Breton and Edward Isle between. In strait and gulf the schooner■ lay: The scft was alUt pence, I ween. The night before thnt August day: Was never :i (Gloucester skipper (here. But thought erelong, with a right good fare, To sail lor home from Saint Lawrence Ba. Bay. New England! New England! Thy giant's love was turned to hate I The winds control his fickle soul. And in Wis wrath he hath no mate. Thy shores his angry scourges tear. And for thy children in his care The sudden tempests lie in wait. The East Wind gathered all unknown, — A thick sea clond hia course before; lie left by night tlie frozen zone And smote the cliffs of Labrador; He lashed the coasts on cither hand. And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland Into the Bay his armies pour. He caught our helpless cruisers there As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold; A sleet - a darkness - tilled the air, A shnddering wave before it rolled: That Lord s-Day morn it was a breeze, — At noon, a blast thnt shook the seas, — At night — a wind of Death took hold! It leaped across the Breton bar, A death-wind from the stormy East I It scarred the land, and whirled afar The sheltering thatch of man and beast; It mingled rick and roof and tree. And like a besom swept the sea, And churned the waters into yeast. From Saint Paul's Light to Edward's Isle A thousand craft it smote amain: And some against it strove the while. And more to make n port were fain: The mackcrcl-gulls flew screaming past. And the stick that bent to the noonday blast Was split by the sundowu hurricane. O, what can live on the open sea, Or moored in port the gale outride? The verv craft that at anchor he Are dragged along by the swollen lldel The great storm-wave came rolling west. And tossed the vessels on its crest: The ancient bounds its might defied 1 The ebb to check it had no power' The surf ran up to an untold height; It rose, nor yielded, hour by hour, A night and day, a day and night; Far up the seething shores it cast The wreck of hull and spar and mast. The strangled crews, — a woful sight! There were twenty and more of Breton sail r ust anchored on one mooring-ground: Each lav within his neighbors hail. When the thick of the tempest closed thcra round: All sank at once in the gaping sen, — Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, Toe foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned. On reef and bar our schooners drove Before the wind, before the swell; By the steep sand-cliffs their ribs were stove,— f^ong, long their crews the talc shall tell I Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks threescore; Of the Province sail two hundred more Were stranded in that tempest fell. The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town That Sabbath n ight rang soft and clear: The sailors' children laid thcin down,— Dear Lord I their sweet prayers couldst thou hear '( 'T is snid that gently blew the winds; The good-wives, through the seaward blinds. Looked down the bay and had no fear. New England I New England I Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn; The twin capes yearn for their return Who never shall be thither borne; Their orphans whisper as they meet; The homes arc dark in many a street. And women move in weeds forlorn. And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear? Ah, no: though widows' cheeks arc pale, The lads shall say: "Another year, . And we shall be of «ge to sail!" And the mothers' hearts shall iill with pride. Though tears drop fast for them who died When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord's- Day gale. '' The island became as Gaelic as the most Gaelic part of Scotland. It continues pn to this day. What of Cape Breton is not Highland Scottish is Acadian French The old allies of the Middle Ages live together in ,.mity on this fair outpost of the new world. The Highland immigrants had a hard time of it for many a long day. They wore poor, unskilled in agriculture, and utterly ignorant of wooderaft or forest life. But their morale was superb. Like men they set the stout heart to the stac brne. Hardy, patient, frugal. God-fearing, they endured hardships th-t would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradually and painfully they learned to wield the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the clumsy hoe and spade of their native isles. The lakes and streams, the Bras d'Or and the rough Atlantic, gave generous supplies of food. Their log-huts in the green woods were their own And their children have exchanged the primitive shanty lor comfortable frame houses, and the few sheep their fathers owned for fat Hocks and hardy horses that they rear for the Svdney and Newfoundland markets. Take up your summer quarters on the Gut of Canso, or at St. Peter's, Baddeck, Whycocomagh, Sydney, Louisbourg, Mar- parec. or any other local centre, and though you may not get ' all the comforts of the Snutmarket,' you will R«t what is better. The more Gaelic you can speak the less muuey you need to have in your purse." (Ret. George M. Grant.) PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Primce Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, nnd is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable waters. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth, 34 M.; and the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- modious and accessible. The island is divided into 3 counties, inclnding 13 districts, or 67 town- ships and 3 royalties. It has 108,891 inhabitants, of whom 47,115 are Cath- olies, 33,835 are Presbyterians, 13,485 Methodists, and 7,205 Episcopalians. The majority of the people are of Scottish origin, and there are 300-400 Micmac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Executive Council (9 members) and the House of Assembly (30 members), and the political parties which form about the petty questions of the island dis- play a partisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with gov- ernor and cabinet, supreme and vice-admiralty courts, and a public domain, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives con- siderable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through quiet rural scenery, broken every few miles by the blue expanses of the broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and eggs. It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the name of /.' Isle St. Jean. TJuwhole country was then covered with stately for- PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 ests, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac Indians, who called it Epayguit ("Anchored on the Wave")- It was inclnded in the broad domain of Acadia, over which France and England waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by Haliburton that the island was captured by the Now-Englanders in 1745, but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail from Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- itants in 1758. In that year Lord Rollo took possession of it, according to the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was surveyed in 1764-6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were stationed there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from tho old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the Province. 174 Route 4S. CAPE TRAVERSE. 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown. — The Northumberland Strait. St. John to Shediac, see Routes 14 nnd 16. It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company will leave Shediac (Point du Chene) every day during the summer season, on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare from Shediac to Summerside is SI.50 ; and from Summerside to Charlottetown, S 1.50. The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of K., and the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmont, with its lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit, signifying "Anchored on the Wave." After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the estuary of the Dunk River on the r. Summerside, see page 179. Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., and, after running by Salutation Point, enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- derlies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- pand, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- ing on the E. "Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliff's of Blockhouse and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to the westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first time, should a setting sun gild the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- quately represent." Charlottetown, see page 175. CHARLOTTETOWN. Route U- 175 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island. To Charlottetown. The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company leave Pictou for Charlottetown every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, on arrival of morning train from Halifax. Fare, 32. The distance is a little over 50 M. Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer approaches Pictou Island, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are pleasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia; and the vessel moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. "Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con- veys to one; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, we arc informed." After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and enters the harbor of Char- lottetown. Pictou to Georgetown. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for Georgetown every Tuesday and Friday; leaving Georgetown for Pictou on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 70 M. The chief incidents of this short voyage are the views of Pictou Island; the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by hills 200 ft. high; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- tween Boughton and Panmure Islands. Georgetown, see page 181. 45. Charlottetown. Arrival« —The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (l.)and Governor's Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between Blockhouse Point (on the 1., with a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and Elliot Rivers (or East, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. Hotels*—St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, near the steamboat wharf; Rankin House. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boarding-houses of average grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being made to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to warrant such an enterprise. Steamships' — The Worcester or the Carroll leaves Charlottetown every Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon state-room, S 6; cabin state-room, S5; cabin, SI; Halifax to Boston, $9, $7.50, 176 Route 45. CHARLOTTETOWN. and S 5.50. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company-'s vessels St. Lawrence and Princess of Wales run between Charlottetown, Shediac, and Pictou (see Routes 43 and 44). The Heather Belle plies about the bay and up the Hillsborough River, making also trips to Crapand and Orwell. She runs up the Hillsborough River to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; to Crapand on Wednesday; and to Orwell on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (time-table of 1874). Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is situated on gently rising ground on tho N. side of the Hillsborough River, and fronts on a good harbor. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, with 2 daily and 4 weekly newspapers, 4 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the citv is very regular, and consists of 6 streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and W., intersecting 9 streets running from N. to S. There are 4 squares. The Colonial Building is the finest structure in the city. It stands on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- Scotia freestone (at a cost of $ 85,000). The halls of the Legislative Coun- cil and House of Assembly are on the second floor, and are handsomely furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward Island. On the same floor is tho Colonial Library, containing a good col- lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristies of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. Just beyond is the Market House, a great wooden structure covered with shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and occupies a modern brick building. The Prince of Wales College and tho Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- ernment House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the harbor. In 1748 the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, -whose residence was established at the W. eutrance to the harbor of Port la Joie (Charlottetown), where they had a battery and a small garrison. It is said that the first French sailors who entered the inner harbor were so pleaded with its trauquil beauty that they named it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British frigates in 1746, but was ravaged by 200 Micmaes under the French Ensign Montesson. All the English found on the Eliore were captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. In 1768 Morris and Deschamps arrived here with a small colony, and erected huts. They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was soon established as the capi- tal of the island. In 1775 it was captured by two American Mar-vessels, which had been cruising in the Gulf to carry otf the Quebec storesbips. The sailors plundered the town, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington lib- erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. Charlottetown "has the appearance of a place from which something has de- parted; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 something. .... That the productive island, with its system of free schools, is about to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Chariottetown is soon to become a place of great activity, no one who converses with the natives can doubt, and I think that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there; but it is necessary to say that the rosy induccmeuts for tourists to spend the summer there exist only in the guide-books." Environs of Chariottetown. The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and overlooks the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 stndents. St. Dunstan's College is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty villas in the vicinity of Chariottetown; and the roads are very good during dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scenery of these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of the whole island. Southport is a village opposite Chariottetown, in a pretty situation on the S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat, which crosses every hour. 3 M. from this place is the eminence called Tea Hill, whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- tained. A few miles beyond is the village of Pownal, at the head of Fownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 46. Chariottetown to Summerside and Tignish.— The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge road which has recently been built by the Canadian government. This line was opened late in 1874. Trains run from Chariottetown to Summerside in 5 hrs.; to Tiguish in 10 hrs. Stations. —Chariottetown to St. Dunstanvs, 2 ; Cemeterv. 4; Royalty Junction, 6: Vfinsloe, 6S; Milton, 10; Colville, 131; N- Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21; Fredericton. 25: Elliotts. 27£; Breadalbane, 29£ ; County Lane, 32; Freetown, 351; Blueshank, 39; Kensington, 41; New Annan, 42; Summerside, 49; Miscouche, 54: Wellington, 61; Richmond, 651; Northam,68; Port Hill, 71; Kilerslie, 721; Conwav. 77: Portage, 80: Brae. 86;, O'Learv, 89: Bloomflcld, 95; Elmsdale, 100; Alberton, 104; Montrose, 108; De Blois, 1121; Tignish, 117. After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Char- iottetown, the train sweeps around the city, turning to the N. from the bank of the Hillsborough River. The suburban villas are soon passed, and the line traverses a level country to Royalty Junction, where the tracks to Souris and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train now enters the main line, and runs W. through a fertile farming country, — "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The hamlets are small and the dwellings are very plain, but it is expected that the stations of the new railway will become the nuclei of future villages. The train soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N. Wiltshire, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 4 11. beyond th:s point is the station of Hunter River, whence a much- 8» L SUMMERSIDE. Route 40. 179 potatoes, 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels of the famous Bedeque oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly small wooden buildings. Considerable shipbuilding is done here. The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, and is patronized by American tourists. There arc accommodations for fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies between the island and the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores and the Strait of Northumberland. "Thia little seaport is intended to be attractive, and it would give these travellers great pleasure to describe it if they could at all remeint'er how it looks. I'.ui it is a place that, like some faces, makes no sort of impression on the memory. We went ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the Shipbuilding, and in the little oysters which the harbor yields; but whether we did take an interest or not has passed out of memory A small, unpicturesque, woodeu town, in the languor of a provincial summer; why should we pretend an interest in it which we did not feel? It did not disturb our reposeful frame of mind, nor much interfere with our enjoy- ment of the day." (Wars tit's Eaddeck.) On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 1\ M. from Summerside. 8 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Afiscouche, inhabited by French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which. flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont are a few miles to the S. VV. The line passes on to Port Hill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island, which is reserved for the Micmac Indians, and is inhabited by about 150 persons of that tribe. Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, which is composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward shores. The train runs N- W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish Inlet and the Percival and En more Rivers, and soon enters the North Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes near Brae, a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine hamlet of West Point, whore a town has been laid out and preparations made for a commerce which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 6 M. from West Point to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. Alberton (two Inn-') is one of the northern termini of the railway, and is a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, with five churches and an GEORGETOWN. Route $7. 181 dered to the British expeditionary forces. To the N. W. are the Gaelic villages of Covehead and Tracadie, now over a century old; near which is the sandy lagoon of Tracadie Harbor. At the place called Scotch Fort the French built the first church on the island, and in this vicinity the earliest British settlers located. From the French Catholic church on the lofty hill at St. Andrews, a few miles to the N. E., a beautiful view is obtained over a rich rural country. Mount Stewart (two inns) is a prosperous little shipbuilding village, whence the steamer Heather Belle runs to Charlottetown. The train crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of the Morrell and Pisquid Rivers. There are several small lakes in this region, and forests are seen on either hand. At Cardigan (small inn) the line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. Georgetown (Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on the long peninsula between the Cardigan and Brndenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. The chief business of the town is in the exportation of produce, and ship- building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but its growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Picton, and the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 49). The harbor is reached by ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head and St. Andrew's Point. Montague Bridge (Montague House) is reached from Georgetown by a ferry of 6 M. and 11 M. of staging. It has 350 inhabitants and several mills. To the S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is Murray Harbor, on which there are several Scottish villages. From Cape Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. "No land can boast more rich supply, That e'er was found beneath the sky; No purer streams have ever flowed, Since Heaven that bounteous gift bestowed. And herring, like a mighty host, And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." "In this fine island, long neglected, Much, it is thought, might be effected By industry and application, — Sources of wealth with every nation." 182 Route 48. ST. PETER'S. 48. Charlottetown to Souris. By the Prince Edward Island Railway. Stations. —Charlottetown; Royalty Junction, 5 M.; Mount Stewart, 22; Mor- rell, 30 i St. Peter's, 38£; Harmony, 55; Souris, 60£. Charlottetown to Mount Stewart, see page 181. At Mount Stewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's Bay. St. Peter's (Prairie Hotel) was from the first the most important port on the N. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict the fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the ports exqept St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small, though the salmon-fishery is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs 7 M. into the land, but it is of little use, since there is only 6 ft. of water on its sandy bar. From this inlet to Kast Point the shore is unbroken, and is formed of a line of red sandstone cliff's, 33 M. long. "The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbors of Prince Edward Island, espe- cially in June, when the fish first rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent. They average from 3 to 5 pounds each. I found the best fishing at St. Peter's Bay, on the N. side of the island, about 28 M. from Charlottetown. I there killed in one morning 16 trout, which weighed 80 pounds. In the bays and along the coasts of the island they are taken with the scarlet fly, from a boat under easy sail, with a 'mackerel brcese,' and sometimes a heavy ' ground swell.' The fly skips from wave to wave at the end of 30 yards of line, and there should be at least 70 yards more on the reel. It is splendid sport, as a strong fish will make sometimes a long run, and give a good chase down the wind." (Perlet.) Harmony station is near Rollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord Rollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1768. There is a small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of Dnndas, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic Highlanders, pleasantly situated on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the produce of the adjacent country is shipped from Souris to the French Isle of St. Pierre (see page 185). There is a long sandy beach on the W. of the village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by the Acadians in 1748; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. The East Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souris, and inclndes the sea-shore hamlets of Red Point, Bothwell, East Point, North Lake, and Fairfield. The East and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 130 ft. above the sea and is visible for 18 M. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 49. 183 49. The Magdalen Islands. These remote islands are sometimes visited, during the summer, by fishing-par- ties, who find rare sport in catching the white sea-trout that abound in the vicinity. The accommodations for visitors are of the most primitive kind, but many defects are atoned for by tiie hospitality of the people. The mail-steamer Albert leaves Pictou for Georgetown (P. E. I.) and the Magdalen Islands every alternate Wednesday. She also leaves Pictou for Port Hood (Capo Breton) every Monday evening, returning ou the following morning. (Time-tablo of IS74 ) Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, S4.60; to Georgetown, f 4.10; to the Magdalen Islands, $ 8. Further particulars may be obtained by addressing James King, mail- contractor, Halifax. The Magdalen Islands ure thirteen in number, and are situated at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from Kast Point (P. E. I.), 60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M. from Cape Ray (N. F.), and 150 M. from Gaspe\ When they are first seen from the sea, they present the ap- pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer approach several of them are seen to be connected with each other by double lines of sandy beaches, forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly Acadian fishermen (speaking French only), devoted to the pursuit of the immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoons are filled with hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- vincial. Seal-hunting is carried on here with much success, as extensive fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On one occasion over 6,000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to be the best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have received the fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal village, the custom-house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M.; and the hills in the interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which opens on the S. of Pleasant Bat|, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- dreds of vessels sometimes weather heavy storms in safety. 1 M. N. W. of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 ft. high), whence the bay and a great part of the islands may be seen. Grindstone Island is 5-6 M. N. of Amherst, and is connected with it by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called Basque Harbor. It is 5 M. long, and has a central hill 550 ft. high, while on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the 184 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Acadians call Cap de Meule. On the same side is the thriving hamlet of Vttang du Nord. On the E., and containing 7 square miles, is Alright Island, terminated by the grayish-white cliffs of Cape Alright, over 400 ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. E. 10 M. from Grindstone to Wolf Island, a sandstone rock \ M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. farther to the N. E. to Grosse Island, on the Grand Lagoon. This island has another line of lofty cliffs of sandstone. To the E. is Coffin Island, and 4 M. N. is Bryon Island, beyond which are the Bird Isles. Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, off the entrance to Pleasant Bay, and is the most picturesque of the group. Near the centre is a hill 580 ft. high, visible for 25 M., and from whose summit the whole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wonderful cliffs of red sandstone which line the shores of this island are very picturesque in their effect, and reach a height of 400 ft. Deadman's Isle is a rugged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives its name from the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid out for burial. While passing this rock, in 1804, Tom Moore wrote the poem which closes: "There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore Of cold and pitiless Labrador, Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost, Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. "Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck, And the dim blue fire that lights her deck As ever yet drank the churchyard dew. "To Headman's Isle in the eye of the blast. To Den d man's Isle she speeds her fast; By skeleton shapes her soils are furled, And the hand that steers is not of this world." The Bird Isles are two bare rocks of red sandstone, \ M. apart, the chief of which is known as Gannet Rock, and is 1,300 ft. long and 100-140 ft. high, lined with vertical cliffs. These isles are haunted by immense num- bers of sea-birds, gannets, guillemots, puffins, kittiwakes, and razor-billed auks. "No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at once for the number and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- tities of eggs are carried thence by the islanders, but to a less extent than formerly. This great natural curiosity was visited in 1632 by the Jesuits (who called the rocks Lea Colombiers), by Heriot in 1807, by Andubon, and in 1860 by Dr. Bryan. The Dominion has recently erected a lighthouse here at great expense,and to the imnnnent peril of those engaged in the work, since there is no landing-place, ar,d in breezy weather the surf dnshes violently against the cliffs all around. The tower bears a fixed white light of the first class, which is visible for 21 M. Charlevoix visited these islands in 1720,aud wondered how," In such a Multitnde of Nests, every Bird immediately finds her own- We fired a Gun, which gave the Alarm thro' all this flying Commonwealth, and there was formed above the two Islands, a thick Clond of these Birds, which was at least two or three Leagues around.'' The Magdalen Islands were visited by Cartier in 1534, but the first permanent sta- tion was founded here in 1663 by a company of Honfleur mariners, to whom the islands were conceded by the Company of New France In 1720 the Duchess of Orleans granted them to the Count do St. Pierre. In 1763 they were inhabited by 10 Acadian families, and in 1767 a Bostonian named Gridley founded on Amherst ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. RotUe 50. 185 Island an establishment tor trading and for the seal and walrus fisheries. During the Revolution American privateers visited the islands, and destroyed everything accessible. Gridley returned after the war, but the walrus soon became extinct, and the inlanders turned their attention to the cod and herring fisheries. When Admiral Coffin received his grant there were 100 families here; in 1831 there were 1,000 inhabitants; and the present population is about 3,500. In the mean time three colonies have been founded and populated from these islands, on Labrador and the N. shore. The Lord's-Day Gale (see page 170) wrought sad havoc among the fleets in these waters. Tradition tells that when Capt. Coffin was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- chester to Canada in his frigate, a furious storm arose in the Gulf, and the skilful mariner saved his vessel by gaining shelter under the lee of these islands. Dorches- ter, grateful for his preservation, secured for the captain the grant of the islands "in free and common soccage," with the rights of building roads and fortifications reserved to the Crown. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now belongs to his nephew, Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estate of the family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- Srietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and tho lingan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. The Anglo-French Steamship Company dispatches the steamer George Skattuck from Halifax to Sydney and St. Pierre every alternate Saturday during the season of navigation- She leaves St. Pierre every alternate Friday. The voyage to Sydney has recently been made by way of St. Peter's Canal and the Bras d'0r, but it is not likely that that route will be adopted in preference to the outside course. Fares from Halifax to Sydney, cabin, $ 10, steerage, $0; to St. Pierre, cabin, $ 15, steerage, $8; Sydney to St. Pierre, cabin, 859, steerage, S6. The price of meals is inclnded in the cabin-fares. Further information-may be obtained by ad- dressing Joseph S. Belcher, Boak's Wharf, Halifax. St. Pierre may also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from St. John's, N. F (see Route 60). There are several French cafes and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which the traveller can find indifferent accommodations. The best of these is that at which the telegraph-operators stop. On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Galantry Head, on which Is a red-ami-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one white and one red, which are visible for 6 M.; and the IsU aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing-village. The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M. from Point May, on the New- foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of a striking and singular character. Back of the village is the hill of Cal- vaire, surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. VV., beyond Ravenel Bay, is the lakelet called DEtang da Savoyard. The town is compactly built on tho harbor at the E. of the island, and most of its houses are of stone. It is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to keep the multitndes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and of the Franco-American cable, which runs E. to Brest and S. W. to Dux- bury, in Massachusetts. The only good house in the town is that of the Governor; and the Cath- NEWFOUNDLAND Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the Strait of Belle Isle, and on the K. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From N. to S. it is 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., giving an estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- per are being worked with much success, and there arc large undeveloped deposits of coal on the W coast. "Up go the surges on the coast of Newfoundland, and down afrain into the sea The huge island .... stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the ocean, a mon- strous mass of rock and gravel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the bottom of the great deep, lifted up snddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- ing to the watery darkness out of which it has been reared. The eve accustomed to richer and softer scenes tin-Is something of a strange and almost startling beauty in its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side against the sky Inland, sur- rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coasts, is a vast wilderness of moss, and rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high- These little trees are so close and stiff and flat-topped that one can almost walk on them. Of course they are very hard things to make way through and among. . ... In March or April almost all the men go out in fleets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and to kill the seals that come down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of mil the people go, by families, in their schooners, to the coast of Labrador, and !pend the summer fishing there; and in the winter, half of them are living in the woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women sow, and plant, and tend the little gardens, and dry the fish; in short, they do the land-work, and are the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island are thus quaintly set forth by Whithourne (anno 1622): "Neither are there any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever were knowne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitndes that fatal results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored regions, stndded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these solitndes roam countless thotisands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- mac hunters. Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations- 188 Route 51. NEWFOUNDLAND. There is good reason for supposing that it was frequented by Breton and Norman fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island was formally discovered by John Cabot, who was voyaging under the patron- age of Heury VII. of England. The explorations of Gortereal (1501), Ve- razzano (1524), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- fleets began to visit the surrounding seas. Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of Newfoundland in tlio name of England, in 1583, making this the most ancient colony of the British Empire. The settlements of Guy, Whithourne, Calvert, and others were soon established on the coast. The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and levying heavy taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, the pirates captured 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large fleets of vessels. Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. shores. By the Treaty of Utrecht the French received permission to catch and euro fish along the W. coast (see Route 61). In 1728 Newfoundland was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was valued at $10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was convened; in 1838 a geological survey was made; and in 1858 the Atlan- tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has re- fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is still governed directly by the British Crown. 51. Halifax to St John's, Newfoundland. The ocean steamships between Halifax and Liverpool call at St John's fortnightly. Their course after leaving Halifax is directly to the N. E. across the open sea.giTing Cape Race a wide berth. The fare on these vessels is higher than it Is on the Virgo, and the accommodations are superior: but the voyager does not get the interesting views of the Canso and Cape-Breton shores. Cromwell-Line steamships run fortnightly between New York, Hali&x, and St. John's. The fare is 815 or 85. They are well arranged for passenger-traffic. Also, steamships of the Allan Line. Halifax to Sydney, see page 14S. After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of E., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim blue hills of Pf pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast 190 Route 5i. ST. JOHN'S. Mail-wagons leave St. John's for Portugal Cove, daily; to Bay Bulls and Ferryland, weekly; to Salmonier and lMacentia. on the day of arrival of the Hali- fax mail. Railroad to points on Conception Bay. Steamships. — For Bay-de-Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavlsta, King's Cove, Greenspond, Fogo, Twiliingatc, Exploits Island, Little Bay Island, Tilt Cove, Bctt's Cove, Nipper's llarbor, and the Labrador coast; to Ferryland, Renewse, Trepassey, Burin, St. Lawrence, Grand Bank, St. Pierre. Harbor Briton, Gaultois, Great .lervois, Burgeo, Little Bay (La Poile), Rose Blanche Channel, and Sydney. Fares (meals inclnded) to Bay-de-Verds or Ferryland, 13 s.; Trinity or Placentia, 20 s.; Catalina or Burin, 20s.: Fogo or St. Pierre, 32s. 6d.; Tilt Cove, 40s.; Rosa Blanche, 50s. ; Sydney, 70s. These steamships to the Northern and Western out- ports leave about every ten days, and connect with the Hercules for Labrador. The Valetta and PoHftft run from St. John's to Pictou and Montreal every fort- night, in summer. The Cromwell Line runs fortnightly steamships from St. John's to Halifax and New York. The Allan-Line steamships run from Baltimore or Hali- fax to St. John's fortnightly; and thence continue on to Liverpool. St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in latitnde 47J 33' 6" N., and longitnde 52" 44' 7" W., and is built on the slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- bor. At the time of the census of 1S69 there were 22,555 inhabitants in the city (there are now over 35,000): but the population, owing to the peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the citizens are connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and largo fleets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, or the arrival of the sealing-steamers, with their great crews, brings new life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general " rows" as re- quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass the fleets which bring in provisions from the Provinces and States to the S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, lor the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone has a trade amounting to S 12,000,000 a year. For about one month, during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests are served by three banks and a chamber of commerce; and the literary standard of society is maintained by the St. John's Athenajum and the Catholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and water is brought in from a lake 4£ M. distant, by works which cost $ 360,000. "In trying to describe St. John's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjec- tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with words which at once give their predominant characteristic: London the richest, Paris the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect the chief town of New- foundland has, 1 believe, no rival; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of inodera capitals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying In the sun, or rather the air, for there h ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 191 not much of the former to depend upon The town is irregular and dirty. built chiefly of wood, the dampness of the climate rendering stone unsuitable." (Eliot Warrurton.) The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the water is always smooth. Here may generally be seen two or three British and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- steamers. Along the shores arc the fish-stages, where immense quantities of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready fur exportation. On the S. shore are several wharves right under the cliffs, and also a float- ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either side rise precipitous walls of sand- stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an altitnde of 520 ft., and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels coming m from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows until close upon it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was closed by a chain drawn across the Narrows, but the batteries are now in a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are mostly low and unpainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- walks, and the genera1! appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main business thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbor shore for about li M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which supply "fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household re- quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall and the Host-Office. To the S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial maimer, and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- nent British architect of the present era, and is in the early English Gothic 192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds (for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral is but partly finished, but since 1880 much work has been done upon it, largely by fishermen volunteers. The lofty proportions of the interior and the fine Gothic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. The * Roman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view over the city and harbor and adjacent country, and looking through the Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral terrace on a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, but the whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered about the cathedral are the Bishop's Palace, the convent and its schools, and St. Bonaventure's College (5 professors), where the missionaries are disciplined and the Catholic youth are'taught in the higher branches of learning. Catholicism was founded on the Island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and by the Bishop of Quebec; suffered persecution from 1762 to 1784, when all priests were banished (though some returned in disguise); and afterwards gained the chief power as a consequence of Irish immigration, upon which the bishops became arro- gant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral Hill. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height cost over $500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, being collected by the priests, who board the arriving fishing-vessels and assess their people. The Irish Catholies form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Royal Newfoundland Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Military Road runs along the crest of the heights, and affords pleasant views over the harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building, a substantial structure of gray stone, well retired from the carriage-way, and adorned with a massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official man- sion of the governor of the Province (Sir Heury Fitzhardinge Berkeley Maxse, K. C. SI. G). It was built In 1828-30, and cost 8240,000. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly diversified with groves, flower-beds, and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during the short but brilluuit summer season. ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 193 Passing out through the poor suburb called " Maggotty Cove," a walk of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. "High above, on our r., a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Crow's Nest), marks the site of an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hollow, a black bog lies sheltered amid the bare bones of mother earth, here mainly composed of dark red sandstones and conglomerate, parsing down by regular gradations to the slate below. A sndden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 3,0 ft. above the sea, in which the guardian rocks reflect their purple laces, and where the ripple of the musk rat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hiJeous- looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- tery, from the parapets of which we look down down, almost 500 ft perpendicu- larly, right into 'the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the broad Atlantic with the oval harbor within The great south-side bids, covered with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the strait so close that one might fancy it almost possible a stone could Hy from the hand to the opposite shore. On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock — between us and Gatway: on our right, at the other end of the uanow neck of water directly beneath, the inner basiii, expanding towards the city, with t ic back- ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken only in their continuous out- line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from nil points perform- ing their mission of couspicuity. Right below us, 400 ft. perpendicular, wo lean over the grass parapet and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heavy chains stretched from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the silver spoils of the day glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western evening breeze. Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still they come, round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-CoL. McCrea.) "After dinner we set off for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the country, both by nature and art Little rills rattled by; paths wound among rocky notches and grassy chasms, and led out to dizzy ' over-looks' and ' short-offs.' The town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to enjoy the spectacle of sails and colors in the harbor Wo struck into a fine military road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers" families, goats and little gardens. Prom the observatory, situated on the craggy peninsula, both the rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noale.) "Britones et Nonnani anno a Christo nato MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere "; and In August, 1527,14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were shel- tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sieur de Robcrval, Viceroy of New France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec. He found 17 vessels at auchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier and the Quebec colonists, discouraged, and returning to France. Roberval ordered him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned to France. A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mary of Guilford, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal Wolsey. In August, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see page 135) entered the harbor of St. John's, with a fleet consisting of the Delight, Gotten Hind, Swattow, and Squirrel. He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, receiving the obedience of 36 ship-masters then in the harbor. Hut the adventurous mari- ners were discontented with the rndeness of the country, and the learned Parme- nins wrote back to Hakluyt: "My good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country what shall I say, when I see nothing but a very wtldernesse." In view nf the date of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the prond distinction of being the most ancient colony of the British Empire. In 1584 St. John's was vi-ited by the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a line of burn- ing wrecks behind. In 1696 the town was so strongly guarded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition of the daring Iberville was more successful, and occupied the place. In November, 1704, 9 ii 194: Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. a fleet from Quebec landed a Trench and Indian force at Placentia, whence they advanced about the middle of January. They were about 400 strong, and crossed the Peninsula of Avalon on snow-shoeF. The town of Bay Bulla (Btboutte) surren- dered on their approach, and a long and painful midwinter march ensued, over the mountains and through the deep snows. The French militia of Placeutia were sent in at dawn to surprise the fort at St. John's, but could not enter the works for lack of scaling-ladders; so they contented themselves with occupying the town and Quiddy Viddy. The fort was now besieged for 33 days, in a season of intense cold, when even the harbor was frozen over; but the Knglish held out valiantly, and showered balls and bombs upon the town, finally succeeding in dislodging the en- emy and putting them in full retreat. In June, 1762, the Count d'llausonville entered the Bay Bulls with a powerful French fleet, consisting of the Hobuste, 74; L'Evtilli, 64; La Garonne, 44; and La Licorne, 30. He escorted several transports, whence 1,500 soldiers were landed. This force marched on St. John's, which surrendered on summons, together with the English frigate Graminont. Lord ColvHle's fleet hastened up from Halifax and blockaded Admiral Da Ternay in the harbor of St. John, while land forces were de- barked at Torbay and Quiddy Viddy, The last-named detachment (Royal Ameri- cana and Highlanders) proceeded to storm the works on Signal Hill, but the French fought desperately, and held them at bay until the English forces from Torbay came in and succeeded in carrying the entire line of heights. In the mean time, a dense fog had settled over the coast, under whose protection De Ternay led his squadron through the British line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In 1796 a formidable French fleet, under Admiral Richery (consisting of 7 line-of-battle ships and several frigates), menaced St. John's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James Wallace. Strong batteries were erected along the Narrows; fire-ships were drawn up in the harbor; a chain was stretched across the entrance; and the entire body of the people was called under arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill; and after an ineffectual attempt at attack, sailed away to the S- Feb. 12, 1816, a disastrous fire occurred at St. John's, by which 1,500 persons were left homeless; and great suffering would have ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which $2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third dis- astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in the abandonment of the colony, and the people were goaded by hunger to a succession of deeds of crime and to organized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove); in 1833 the first session of the Colonial Parliament was held; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived here in 1840. In I860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-religious causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Companies was ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon in the twilight, when they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the rioters to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview. the next day, be- tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was ended. In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing business, and their crews amounted to 1584 men. In 1869 (the latest accessible statisties) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- tered this port; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 4,937 men. The ne* railroad, the first to be built in Newfoundland, now runs from St John's to Holy rood, 65 M., and to Harbor Grace. It is being built by a New-York company, and will be extended as rapidly as possible to the copper-mines at Hall's Bay, 340 M. distant, opening up a valuable mining and farming country. It wilt cost £3,000,000, and the company receives a subsidy of $185,000 a year for 35 years, and a land-grant of 1,700,000 acres. PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 53. The Environs of St. John's. "On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rug- ged coast, at an average radins from the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet ami enjoyable summer, all persons who can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties. Each little bay is but a slice of the high cliffs scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- lantic waves; and leading dowu to iu shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-bum pours back the waters evaporated from the parent surface."' (Lt.-Coi.. McCrra.) The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable Canning population. The roads are tine, being lor the most part macadamized and free from mnd 3 SI- beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasautly situated in a small forest. Quiddy- Vkldy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St. John's. The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that lias been de- scribed as possessing a "sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the Windsor Lake, or Twenty-Mile Pond, "a large picturesque sheet of water, with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours from St. John's. Barges run from St. John's to Topsail. "The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good road from St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village is very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and shut out everything but their conical or mammitlated peaks, covered with wild stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. Turning snddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle Isle." (.Sir R. Bonnycastls.) "On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape SU Francis, and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the mouth of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upon Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Prof. Jukes.) Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the seclnded domain of Virginia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. in circumference, "indented with little grass-edged bays, fringed and feathered to the limpid edge with dark. dense woods." Beyond this point the drive may be protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting cliffs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. 196 R&uU54. TORBAY. Logie Bay is remarkable for the wildness of its rock and cliff scenery. "Nothing like a beach is to be found anywhere on this coast, the descent to the sea being always difficult and generally impracticable. In Logie Bay the thick-bedded dark sandstones and conglomerates stand bold and bare in round-topped bills and preci- pices 3-400 ft. in height, with occasional fissures traversing their jagged cliffs, and the boiling waves of the Atlantic curling around their feet in white eddies or leaping against their sides with huge spouts of foam and spray." (Prof. Jukes.) "Torbay is an arm of the sea, — a short, strong ami with a slim hand and finger, reaching into the rocky land and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pretty brook. Here is a little village, with ilomish and Protestant steeples, and the dwell- ings of fishermen, with the universal appendages of fishing-houses, boats, and Hakes. One seldom looks upon a hamlet so picturesque and wild." On the N. shore of the bay is a long line of cliffs, 3-400 ft. high, surf-beaten and majestic. and finely observed by taking a boat out from Torbay and coasting to the N. '' At one point' where the rocks recede from the main front and form a kind of headland, the strata* 6-8 ft. thick, assume the form of a pyramid, from a broad base of a hundred yards or more running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast cave has partly fallen out, and left the resemblance of an enormous tent with cavernous recesses and halls, in which the shades of evening were already lurking, and the surf was sounding mournfully. Occasionally It was musical, pealing forth like the low tonea of a great organ with awful solemnity. Now and then, the gloomy silence of a min- ute was broken by the crash of a billow far within, when the reverberations were like the slamming of great doors." "After passing this grand specimen of the architecture of the sea, there appeared long rocky reaches, like Egyptian temples, old dead cliffs of yellowish gray checked off by lines and seams into squares, and having the resemblance, where they have fallen out into the ocean, of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone." (Noale.) 54. The Strait Shore of Avaloa —St. John's to Cape Race. That portion of the Peninsula of Avalon which fronts to the eastward on the Atlantic has been termed the Strait Shore, on account of its generally undeviating line of direction. Its outports may be visited either by the Friday mail-con- veyance, through Petty Harbor, Bay Bulls, Ferryland, and Renewse, or by the Western Coastal steamer (see Route 60). Distances by Road.— St. John's to Blackhead, 4 M.: Petty Harbor, 10: Bay Bulls, 19; Witless Bay, 22; Mobile, 24; Toad Cove, 26; La Manche, 82; Brigus, 34; Cape Broyle, 38; Caplin Cove, 42; Ferryland, 44; Aquafort, 48; Fer- meuse, 51; Renewse, 54 ; Cape Race, 64. "The road, one of the finest I ever saw, — an old-fashioned English gravel-road, smooth and hard almost as iron, a very luxury for the wheels of a springless wagon, — keeps up the bed of a small river, a good-sized trout-stream, flowing from the in- land valley into the harbor of St. John's. Contrasted with the bold regions that front the ocean, these valleys are soft and fertile. Wc passed smooth meadows, and sloping plough-lands, and green pastures, and houses peeping out of pretty groves. One might have called it a Canadian or New-Hampshire vale." The road passes several lakelets and trout-streams, and gives fine views of the ocean on the 1., being also one of the most smooth and firmly built of highways. "No nation makes such roads as these, in a land bristling with rugged difficulties, that has not wound its way up to the summit of power and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely resemble the Cordillera peaks; and from the bald summiU on the W., Trinity Bay may be seen. The mail-road running S. from St. John's passes Waterford Bridge and soon approaches Blackhead, a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore whose great cliffs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and attrition of the Atlantic surges. Near this place is Cape Spear, the most easterly point of North America, 1,656 M. from Valentia Bay, in Ireland. On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-white striped tower sustair' ^yolving light which is visible for 22 M. BAY BULLS. RouU54. 197 The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- dulating country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the I. the slopes stretch up to the breezy headlands, beyond which there is nothing but sea and clond from this to Europe." Petty Harbor is 4 M. S. W. of Cape Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Off this point II. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1S14, and 60 men were drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor arc situated in a narrow glen at the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the foot of this ravine is small and insecure. The dark lulls to the W. attain a height of 700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls; and at about 4 M. from Petty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- ward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain -vhich is seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches Ionclay Hill (810 ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay Bulls, a village of 700 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bay, but most of the inhabitants are engaged in the cod-fishery, which is carried on from large open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great vicissitndes during the conflicts between the French and the English for the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed by Admiral Bichery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during the season for several days' adventure hereabouts. In 1696 the French frigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendange. Philippe, and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sapphir* off Cape Spear, and chased it into Day Bulls. A naval battle of several hours' duration was closed by the complete discomfiture of the British, who set fire to the shattered Sapphire and abandoned her. The French sailors boarded her immediately, but were destroyed by the explosion of the magazine. Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a large and prominent Cat hoi'c church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Beyond the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road reaches Cape Broyle. In 1628 Cape Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French war- vefsels, who also took the fishing-fleet then in the harbor. But Sir George Calvert pent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and sev- eral hundred men, on whose approach '* the French let slip their cables, and made to sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French stations at Trepassey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean de Luz. Cap« Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near fie mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (552 ft high). There is good fnhnon-fishingon the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot of Hell Hill. 198 Route 5f. FERRYLAND. Fairyland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-Cove settlement, and is the capi- tal of the district of Ferryland. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is well located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Off this point are the slender spires of rock called the Hare'i Ean, projecting from the sea to the height of 50 ft. In 1014 (1022) King James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and Placentia Bays to Sir George Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named his new domain Avalon, in honor of the district where Christian tradition claims that the Gospel was lirst preached In Britain (the present Glastonbury). It was de- signed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable company of settlers, under the govern- ment of Capt. Wynne, and a colony was planted at Ferryland. The reports sent back to Eugland concerning the soil and productions of the new country were so favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under his administration an equitable government was established, fortifications were erected, und other improvements instituted. Lord Baltimore had but little pleasure of his settlement in Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harass him; and Erasmus Stourton, one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- more's priests said mass and had "all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, in the ample manner as 'tis used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by schismaties. Lord Baltimore died (in 1632), leaving to his son Cecil, 2d Lord Balti- more, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the king In that more favored southern clin-e afterwards arose the great city which com- memorates and honors the name of Baltimore. In 1637 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- lished himself at Ferryland. He hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- tained a strong (and sometimes harsh) rule over the island. At the outhreak of the English Revolution (1642), Kirke's brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and established a powerful and well-armed fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in his domain; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, was sailing to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts, Sir David was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1651), to be tried on various charges: but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was released, returning to Ferry- land, where he died in 1656, after having governed the island for over 20 years. At a later day this town became a port of some importance, and was the scene of re- peated uaval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was takeu and plundered by 4 Dutch frigates. In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying h arc abundant in these woods and waters, since it is but once in years that the all-Flaying white man reaches the pond, and the prndeut Indians kill only enough for their own actual needs. There is a lofty island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and ravinc-like channels of the pond, with an enormous depth of water. The route to Hall's Bay (see page 211) leads up the river from the N. E. corner of the pond for about 35 M-, passing through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe is carried for £ M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. V. of the inlet of this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid stream which leads to the Humber River and Deer Pond in 8- 10 M.,and is passable by canoes, with frequent portages. Near the N. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle between the M icmaes and the Red Indians, which resulted in the extermination of the latter nation. The Micmaes were a Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who had moved over to Newfoundland, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the Red Indians, or Boeothies. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- mination and spirit were shown by the Bceothies, invaded here in their innermost retreats. But they had only bows and arrows, while the Micmaes were armed with guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians of this section was left alive. This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), alternating with ''the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. Gov. Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- laid with luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- toes there is "no country out of England or Egypt superior to it." The intense and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclnde agriculture on a large scale. These inland solitndes are adorned, during the short hot summer, with many brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild roses, violets, irises, pitcher-plants, heather, inaiden-bair, and vividly colored lichens; while (says Sir R. Bonny castle)" in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 1822- He was ac- companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The maps of Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and hypothetical lakes. The British Admiralty chart of Newfoundland (Southern Por- tion) omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pond, and River of Ex- ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into the sea, and 5 M. beyond is Red Island, surrounded by dark red cliffs. 25 M. farther to the N. E. is the entrance to Port au Port, a great double harbor of noble capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. wide, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery in the Province, and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are found here in large quantities. There are about 1,000 inhabitants about the bay, most of whom are * ^^^iHk &© herring-fishery. '%■* th- HUMBER RIVER. Route 61. 219 At the head of the hay is the mouth of the Humber River, the largest river in Newfound land. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known as the Humber Sound, and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50 - 60 fathoms deep, with lofty and rugged hills on either side. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- mon fisheries arc of considerable value. The river flows into the head of the sound in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer Fond. Occa- sional cabins and clearings are wen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy pioneers. 3 M above the "head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque, — lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 3 -400 ft , and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and over their summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow for 6 M. above the rapids, when' another series of rapids is met, above which are the broad waters of * Deer I'ond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micmac Indians still visit these solitndes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas of the shore (Sec also pages 211 and 218.) "Beyond the forest-eovered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which How to the bay under the name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more romantic scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also a bay of streams and in- lets, an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters, where the summer voyager would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkling with pictures." Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort of American and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herring are caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect; and the rivers which empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range. The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingorna- choix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white flashing-light which is visible for 18 M.; and 2 M. E. is the fishing-station of Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives the River of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and abounding in salmon. "^\^hat a region for romantic excursions! Yonder are wooded mountains with a sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing from a country almost unexplored; and here are green isles spotting the sea, — the islands of St. John. Behind them is au expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through. which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indiaus, now extinct or banished." The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations of New Ferolle and Old FeroUe. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 220 Route 61. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. The Strait of Belle Isle. The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at 30 M. beyond Green Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revolving light upheld on the bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly point of Newfoundland. The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon. is approached. Tins place is situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devoted to the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- tndes of seals are caught off this point, in the great current which sets from the remote N. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape Bauld is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly point of the Province. 14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the entrance of the strait. It is 9>£ M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterly barren and unprofitable. On its S- point is a lonely lighthouse, 470 ft. above the sea, sustain- ing a fixed white light which is visible for 28 M. During the dense and blinding snow-storms that often sw«p over the strait, a cannon is fired at regular intervals; and large deposits of provisions are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners. Between Dec. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for these northern seas are then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is but one point where the island can be approached, which is \% M. from the lighthouse, and here the stores are landed. There is not a tree or even a bush on the island, and coal is imported from Quebec to warm the house of the keeper,—who, though visited but twice a year, is happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. In the year 1527 "a Canon of St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New World with two ships, which were fitted out by King Heury VIII. After they had gone to the westward for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reached "the mayne land, all wildernesse and mountalues and woodes, and no naturall ground but all xnosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts." They entered the Strait of Belle Isle, and then " there arose a great and a maruailous great stornie, and much foul weather," during which the ships were separated. The captain of the Mary of Guilford wrote home concerning his consort-ship: " I trust in Almightie Jesu toheare good newes of her"; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the strait, with all on board. The islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called the Isles of Demons in the remote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with "devils ram- pant, with wings, horns, and tails." They were said to be fascinating but malicious, and Andre Thevet exorcised them from a band of stricken Indians by repeating a part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted shores, and '' wheu they passed this way, they heard in the air, on the tops and about the masts, a great clamor of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, such as you may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place j whereupon they well knew that the Isle of Demons was not far off." The brave but superstitious Normans dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, belieTing that those gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible griffins. These quaint legends STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Route 61. 221 undoubtedly had a good foundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle Isle were ravaged by bands of immense wolves, who devoured several human beiogs and besieged the settlements for weeks. An ancient MS. of 1586 retates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- pany on the fleet which was conducted through the Straits to Quebec in 1542, were the Lady Marguerite, niece of the Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Their conduct was such as to have scandalized the licet, and when they reached the Isle of Demons, Koberval, euraged at her shame lew ness, put her on shore, with her old nurse. The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the ticet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell hegau their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their hut at ni^lit, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the forest. lint the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. l/ong thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a lishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of her tire, and rescued her, after two years of life among demons. From Cape BauUl the coast runs S. by the French sealing-stations of Griguet, St. Lunairc, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep indentation of Hare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for the French fleets and a coaling-station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last degree. To the S. E. arc the large islands of Groais (7 X 3£ M. in area)and Belle Isle(9 X 6 M.)- Running now to the S. W. by Cape llouge and Botitot, Conche Harbor is seen on the starboard bow, and Canada Bay is opened on the Hr. This great bay is 12 M. long, and is entered through an intricate passage called the Narrows, beyond which it widens into a safe and capacious basin. The shores are solitary and de- serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges called The Clonds. 7 M. to the 8. W. Is the entrance to Hooping Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is t'ourchette, 12 M. beyond which is Great Harbor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth of water that vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the W. eutrance of White Bay, and is 16 M. from Partridge Point, the E entrance. White Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10- 15 M wide. It is very deep, and has no islands except such as are close in shore. The fisheries are car- ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm, Chouse Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Cove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the W and S. of White Ray are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered from Hall's Bay or Green Bay. 3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from the simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its head. Kunning thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are the St. Barbe, or Horse Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle ment on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S- 7 M. from this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Notre Dame (see page 211); and 5 M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of the French Shore on the Atlantic. "The Cape Is in full view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the fiends of Pandemoninm, rather thau the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib- beted on the black and dismal crags. .... As we bear down toward the Cape, we pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks delicately wreathed with lace-like mists. Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you will see this little outpost and 222 Route 61. CAPE ST. JOHN. breakwater of Cape St. John." (Noale.) The Cape presents by far the grandest scenery on the E. coast of Newfoundland, and is an unbroken wall of black rock, 4-600 ft. high and 5 M. long, against whose immediate base the deep sea sweeps. ''op the lakdes of larrador and baccalaos, lying west and north-west from Englande, and reings parte of the firme lands of the West Indies. "Many haue traualyed to search the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to the intente to knowe howe farre or whyther it reachcthe, as also whether there bee any passage by sea throughe the same into the Sea of Sur and the Islandes of Malucat which arts under the Equinoctiall line : thinkynge that the waye thy thershuldegreatly bee shortened by this vyage. The Spanyardes, as to whose ryght the sayde islandes of spices perteync, dyd fyrst seeke to fynde the same by this way. The Portugales also hauynge the trade of spices in theyr handes, dyd trauayle to fynde the same: although hetherto ncyther anye sue he passage is founde or the ende of that lande. Iu the yea re a thousande and fine hundredth, Caspar Cortesreales made a vyage thyther with two carauelles; but found not the streyght or passage he sought..... lie greatly maruayled to beholde the honge quantitie of snowc and ise. For the sea is there frosen excedyngly. Thinhabitauntes are men of good corporature, al- though tawny like the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte theyr bodyes, and weare braselettes and hoopes of syluer and copper. Theyr apparel is made of the skynnes of martcraes and dyvers other beastes, whiche they weare with the heare inwarde in wynter, and outwarde in soommer. This apparell they gyrde to theyr bodyes with gyrdels made of cotton or the synewes of fysshes and beastes. They eate fysshe more than any other thynge, and especially salmons, althouglie they have loules and frute. They make theyr houses of timber, whereof they haue great plentie: and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It is said also that there are grifes in this land: and that the beares and many other beastes and foules are white. To this and the islandes aboute the same, the Biitons are accustomed to resorte: as men of nature agreeable vnto them, and born voder the same altitnde and temperature. The Norways also sayled thyther with the pylot cauled John Seoluo: and the Englyshe men with Sebastian Cabot. "The coaste of the lande of Baccalaus is a greatc tracte, and the altitnde thereof is xlviii degrees and a halfe. Sebastian Cabot was the fyrst that browght any knowl- eage of this land. For being in Englande in the dayes of Kyng Heury the Seuenth, he furnyshed two shippes at his owne charges or (as some say) at the kynges, whom he persuaded that a passage might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and that spices myght bee browght from thense soner by that way, then by the vyage the Portugales vse by the Sea of Sur. He went also to knowe what maner of landes those Indies were to inhahite. He had withe hym 300 men, and directed his course by the tracte of islande uppon the Cape of Laborador at lviii degrees: afflrmynge that in the monethe of July there was such could and heapesof Ue that he durst passe no further: also that the dayes were very longe, and in maner withowt nyght, and the nyghtes very cleare. Certeyne it is, that at the lx degrees, the longest day is of xvlii houres. But consyderynge the coulde and the straungeness of the un- knowne lande, he turned his course from thense to the West, folowynge the coast of the land of Baccalaus vnto the xxxviii degrees, from whense he returned to Eng- lande. To conclnde, the Brytons and Danes have sayled to the Baccalaus; and Jacques Cartier, a Frenchman, was there twyse with three galeons. ''Of these lands Jacobus Bastaldus wryteth thus: 'The Newe land of Baccalaus is a coulde region, whose inhabytauntes are idolatours, and praye to the soone and moone and dyvers idoles. They are whyte people, and very rustical. For they eate flesshe and fysshe and all other thynges rawe. Sumtymes also they eate mans flesshc prinilye, so that theyr Caciqui have no knowleage thereof. The apparell of both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although they have sables and martemes, not greatly esteemed because they are lyttie. Some of them go naked in soomer, and weare apparell only in wynter Northwarde from the region of Baccalaus is the land of Laborador, all full of mountaynes and great woodes, in whiche are manye beares and wykle hoares. Thinhabitauntes are idolatoures and warlike people, apparelled as are they of Baccalaus. In all this newe lande is neyther citie or castell, but they ly ve in companies lyke heardes of beastes.'" LABEADOE Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the ocean, and Hndson's Bay. It extends from about 50° N. latitnde to 60°, and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Nain being 32^ C. The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowlders. There are no forests, and the inland region is dotted with lakes and swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; but their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm with fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of cod and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls. "The coast of Labrador is the edge of a vast solitnde of rocky hills, split and blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible along its almost Interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid - nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to the south. Hero and there upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the sea, in which the fancy may roughly shape all the structures of human art, —castles, palaces, and temples. Im- agine an entire side of Broadway piled up solidly, one, two, three hundred feet in height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the door- ways, dashing in at the windows, sweeping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very cornices with silvery spray, falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- very foam; and yet, all this imagined, can never reach the sentiment of these precipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the sea-slopes, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection of all that is picturesque and rough, —a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standing, a savage scene that scares away all thoughts of order and design in nature This is the rosy time of Labrador (July). The blue interior hills, and the stony vales that wind up among them from the sea, have a summer-like and pleasant air. I find myself peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men toil in the fields away there; no women keep the house off there; there no children play by the brooks or shout around the country school-house; no bees come home to tho hive; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney; no orchard blooms; no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows in the twilight. There is nobody there; there never was but a miserable and scat- 226 Houie 6%. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. of bold bluffs whose shadows seemed almost to meet midway in the narrow channel that separated them. Through this grand gloomy portal there was an unbroken vista. for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water from view; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." On the N. shore of the Narrows is the Hndson's Bay Company's post of Kigolette, occupying the site of an older French trading-station. At the head of the Narrows is Melville Lake, a great inland sea, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won- derful volcanic peaks of the lolly Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Kigolette, by this route, Is the H. B. Company's post of Norwcst, situated a little way up the N. W. River, near great spruce forests. This is the chief trading-post of the Moun- taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the West, and a tall, graceful, and spir- ited people. In 1840 they first opened communication with the whites. It was this tribe, which, issuing from the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- minated the Esquimaux of the coast. 300 M. from Fort Norwest is Fort fcaseopie, situated on the Heights of Land, far in the dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- ity are the Grand Falls, which the voi!fu'curs claim are 1.000 ft. high, but Factor M'Lcan says are 400 ft. high, — and below them the broad river flashes down through a canon 300 ft. deep, for over 30 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of Ungava Bay. (The Esquimaux-Bay district is well described in an article by Charles Hallock, Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a prond and enterprising people, low In stature, with coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The men are expert in fishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful boat called the kayak, which outrides the rndest surges of the sea; while the women are skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the country is covered with snow and ice for a great part of the year. They call them- selves Innuits ("men"), the term Esquimaux (meaning "eaters of raw flesh") being applied to them by the hostile tribes to the W. On the 500 M. of the Atlantic coast of Labrador there are about 1,000 of these people, most of whom have been converted by the Moravians. They live about the missions in winter, and assemble from the remotest points to celebrate the mysteries of the Passion Week in the churches. They were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- vian Brethren occupied the coast under permission of the British Crown- They were formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practice of polygamy has ceased among the tribes, and their marriages are celebrated by the Moravian ritual. The missionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed during seasons of famine. At each station are a church, a store, a mission-house, and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilised Esquimaux, who are fast learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. Ilopedale is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isle, and Is one of the chief Moravian missions on the Labrador coast. It was founded in 1782 by the en- voys of the church, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this dreary coast. Its last statisties claim for it 35 houses, with 46 families and 248 per- sons; 49 boats and 49 kayaks; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 baptized children. The mean annual temperature here is 27° 82'. The church is a neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and German hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. Natn is about 80 M. N. W. of Hopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 95 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- Tians in 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, facing the ocean from the bottom of a narrow haven. It is in 57° N. latitnde (same latitnde as the Hebrides), and the thermometer sometimes marks 75° in summer, while spirits freeze in the intense cold of winter. Okkak is about 120 M- N. W. of Nain, towards Hndson Strait, and is a very successful mission which dates from 1776. The station of Hebron is still farther up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. Far away to the N. £., across the broad openings of Davis Strait, U Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of Julianshaab. CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. At Battle Harbor the Northern Coastal steamer connects with the Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St. Charles Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or St. Charles Harbor, entering be- tween Fishflake and Blackbili Islands. This harbor is deep and secure (though small), and is a favorite resort for the fishermen. As the steamer passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M. inland, and is noticeable as the loftiest highland in this district. Niger Sound and the Camp Islands (250-300 ft. high) are next passed, and a landing is made at Chimney Tickle. 1-i M. S. W. of the Camp Islands is Torrent Point, beyond which the vessel passes Table Head, a very pic- turesque headland, well isolated, and with a level top and precipitous sides. It is 200 ft. high, and is chiefly composed of symmetrical columns of basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of the Peterel Isles and St. Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. E. may be seen the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is the bold promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now opens to the N. W-, guarded by the cliffs of York Point (1.) and Chateau Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil sheet. Within is the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 6 M. long, and lined by lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r. is the ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent village, with a church and a large area of fish-stages. In the autumn and winter its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which is afforded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the remarkable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trouting-streams up Temple Bay; and vast numbers of curlews visit the islands in August. "This castle is a most remarkable pile of basaltic rock, rising in vertical columns from an insulated bed of granite. Its height from the level of the ocean is upward of 200 ft. It is composed of regular five-sided prisms, and on all sides the ground is strewn with single blocks and clusters that have become detached and fallen from their places [It1 seemed like some grim fortress of the fendal ages, from whose embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth flame and smoke. On the very verge of the parapet across stood out in bold relief in the gleaming moonlight, like a sentinel upon his watch-tower." (Hallock, describing Castle Island.) Chateau was formerly considered the key of the northern fisheries, and its pos- session was hotly contested by the English and French. At the time of the de- population of Acadia a number of its people fled hither and established a strong fortress. This work still remains, and consists of a bastioned star-fort in masoury, Kith gun-platforms, magazines, and block-houses, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- yond which were earthworks and lines of stockades. It was abandoned in 1753, and is now overgrown with thickets. In 1763 a British garrison was located at Chateau, in order to protect the fisheries, but the place was captured in 1778 by the American privateer Minerva, and 3 vessels and £70,000 worth of property were carried away as prizes. In 1796 the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the shore-batteries, and it was not until their ammunition was exhausted that the British troops retreated into the back country, after having burnt the village. In 1535 the French exploring fleet under the command of Jaques Cartier assembled here. 228 Route 63. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. After emerging from Chateau Bay, the course is laid around York Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 M. E. )' The Labrador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the stern front of its frowning cliffs slightly indented by the insecure havens of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island is now seen, with its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. - Large forests are seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the Little St. Modesto Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. farther to the W. the steamer enters Loup Bay^ rounding high red cliffs, and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Loiip (which views the Newfoundland coast from Point Ferolle to Cape Nor- man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 I1., to round Point Amour, which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 155 ft. high, and visible for 18 M. From the Red Cliffs, on the E. of Loup Bay, it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Newfoundland. "The Battery, as sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2-3 M. in extent, with horizontal lines extending from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures resembling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out with grand proportions toward the sea, it has a most military and picturesque appearance. At one point of this huge citadel of solitnde there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous piers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of the frost, and the eye darts up the rnddy ruins in surprise. If there was anything to defend, here is a Gibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its precipitous cliffs the debris slopes like a glacis to the beach, with both smooth and broken surfaces, and all very hand- somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then sweep out gracefully with an ample lap to the margin. No art could produce better effect. The long terraced galleries are touched with a tender green. and the well-hollowed vales, now and then occurring, and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded hills, look green and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks In white cascades. Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-fleets and dwell- ings." (Noale.) The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- copal church and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the best in the strait, and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the cliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay contains large numbers of salmon. 230 Route 64 . ESQUIMAUX BAY. liraclore Bay Is of great extent, and Is stndded with clusters of islets, which make broad divisions of the roadstead. It was known in ancient times as La Bate des Itettes, and was granted by France to the Sieur Le Oardeur de Courtemanche (who, according to tradition, married a Princess of France, the daughter of Heuri IV.). That nobleman sent out agents and officers, named the new port Phelypeaux, and built at its entrance a bulwark called Fort Poutchartrain. From him it de- scended to Sieur Foucher, who added the title '' de Labrador " to his name ; and there still exists a seini-uoble family in France, bearing the name of Fouchet de Labrador. On tliis bay was the town of Brest, which, it is claimed, was founded by men of Brittany, in the year 1508. If tbis statement is correct, Brest was the first Euro- pean settlement in America, antedating by over thirty years the foundation of St. Augustine, in Florida. In 1535 Jaques Cartier met French vessels searching for this port. About the year 1600 Brest was at the height of its prosperity, and had 1,000 permanent inhabitant-;, 200 houses, a governor and an almoner. and strong fortifica- tions. After the subjugation of the Esquimaux by the Moutaignais, it was no longer dangerous to establish small fishing-stations along the coast, and Brest began to decline rapidly. Kuins of its ancient works may still be found here. The Bay of Bonne-Esperance is one of the most capacious on this coast, and is sheltered from the sen by a double line of islets. The port is called Bonny by the American fishermen, who resort here in great numbers during the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by Jaques Cartier, who said that they were "so numerous that it is not pos- sible to count them." They were formerly (and are sometimes now) called Les Isles de la Demoiselle; and TheVet locates here the tragedy of Rober- val's niece Marguerite (see page 221). Esquimaux Bay is N. of Bonne-Esperanee, and is 8 M. in circumference. 2 M. above Esquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the mouth of the river, abounding in salmon. There is a great archipelago between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands an ancient fort was discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and turf, and was surrounded by great piles of human bones. It is supposed that the last great battle between the French and Montaignais and the Esquimaux took place here, and that the latter were exterminated in their own fort. 13 M. W. of Whale Island are Mistanoque Island and Shecatica Bay, beyond Lob- ster and Rocky Harbors. Port St. Augustine is 15 M. W. of Mistanoque, beyond Shag Island and the castellated highlands of Cumberland Harbor. A line of high Islands extends hence 21 M. W. by S. to Great Meccatina Island, a granite rock 2x3 M. in area, and 500 ft. high. The scenery in this vicinity is remarkable for its gran- deur and singular features. 58 M. from Great Meccatina Island isCape Whittle; and in the intervening course the Watagheistic Sound and Wapitagun Harbor are passed. A fringe of islands extends for 6-8 M. off this coast, of which the outermost are barren rocks, and the large inner ones are covered with moss-grown hills. "Now, brothers, for the iceberg! Of frozen Labrador, Floating spectral in the moonshine Along the low hlack shore! Where like snow the gannet's feathers On Bradors rocks are shed. And the noisy tnurr arc flying. Like black scuds, overhead: "Where in mist the r"ek is hiding. And the sharp reef lurks below, And the white squall lurks in summer. And the autumn tempests blow; Where, through gray and rolling vapor, From evening unto morn, A thousand boats are hailing, liorn answering unto horn. "Hurrah' for the Red Island, With the white cross on its crown I Hurrah ! for Meccaiina, And its mountains bare and brown I Where the Caribou's tull antlers Oer the dwarf-wood freely toss. And the footstep of the Mick mack Has no sound upon the moss. "Hurrah I — hurrah !— the west-wind Comes freshening down the bay, The rising sails are filling, — Give way, my lads, give way I Leave the coward landsmen clinging To the duil enrth, like a weed,— The stars of heaven shall guide ua, The breath of heaveu shall speed 1" Joiix G. Wiiittiek 5 Song of the Fishermen. 232 Route 64. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. are taken 30-35,000 quintals of cod, without counting other fish." "The once desolate coasts of Mingan have acquired, by immigration, a vigorous, moral, and truly Catholic population. The men are generally strong and robust, and above all they are hardy seamen." On the W. edge of the Mingan Islands are the Perroquets, a cluster of low rocks where great numbers of puffins burrow and rear their young. On these islets the steamships Clyde and North Briton were wrecked (in 1657 and 1661). A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to the St. John River, a distance of 18-20 M. The river is marked by the tall adjacent peak of Mount St. John (1,416 ft. high); and furnishes very good fishing (see G. C. Scott's " Fishing in American Waters "). The Mamtou River is 34 M. W. of the St. John, and at H M. from its mouth it makes a grand leap over a cliff 113 ft. high, forming the most magnificent cataract on the N. -lion'. The coast Indians still repeat the legend of the invasion of this country by the Micmaes (from Acadia), 200 years ago, and its heroic end. The hos- tile war-party encamped at the falls, intending to attack the Montaignais at the portages, for which purpose forces were stationed above and below. But the local tribes detected their presence, and cut off the guards at the canoes, then surprised the detachment below the falls, and finally attacked the main body above. After the unsparing carnage of a long night-battle, the Micmaes were conquered, all save their great wizard-chief, who stood on the verge of the falls, singing soogs of de- fiance. A Montaignais chief rushed forward to take him, when the bold Micmac Seized his opponent and leaped with him into the foaming waters. They were both borne over the precipice, and the falls have ever since been known as the Manitousin (Conjurer's) Falls. The Moisic River is about 40 M. W. of the Manitou River, and empties into a broad bay which receives also the Trout River. At this point are the Moisic Iron Works, near which there are about 700 inhabitants, most of whom are connected with the mines. This company has its chief office in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see page 231). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $6 a week (no liquors on the premises). Large quantities of codfish and sal- mon are exported from Moisic. The Seven Islands are a group of barren "mountain-peaks, starting snddenly from the ocean," and situated several leagues W. of the mouth of the Moisic River. They were visited by Cartier (1535), who reported that ho saw sea-horses here; and in 1731 they were inclnded in the Domaine du Hoi. The trading-post which was established here by the French, 140 years ago, subsequently reverted to the Hndson's Bay Com- pany, and is visited by 3-400 Nasquapee Indians. Since the departure of the H. B. Company, the post itself has lost its importance, but all ves- sels trading on the N. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. The Montaignais Indians had a broad trail running thence up a vast and desolate valley to Lake St. John, 300 M. S. W., and the Moisic River was part of the canoe-route to Hndson's Bay. The Montaignais were here secure from the attacks of the dreaded Mohawks on the one side, and the maritime Esquimaux on the other, and here they received the Jesuit mis- sionaries. THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Route 64. 233 The scenery of the Bay of ScTen Islands is famed for its wild beauty and weird desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands and a mountainous promoutory on the \V\ The immediate shore is a fine sandy bench, back of which are broad lowlands, and '' the two parallel ranges of mountains, which add so much to the beauty of the distant scenery of this bay, look like huge and impenetrable barriers between the coast and the howling wilderness beyond them"' In the spring and autumn this bay is visited by myriads of ducks, geese, brant, and other wild fowl, and the salmon-fishing in the adjacent streams is or great value. The Great Bou.e is the loftiest of the Seven Islands, reaching an altitnde of 700 ft. above the sea, and commanding a broad and magnificent view. There are about 300 inhab- itants here, a large proportion of whom arc Indians who arc engaged in the fur- trade. On Carrousel Island is a fixed light, l'.C, ft. above the sea, which is visible for 20 M- From Carrousel Island to the St. Margaret River it is 8 M.j to the Cawee Islands, 24; to Sproulc Point, 28; and still farther W. are the Pentecost River and English Point, olT which are the Egg Islands, bear- ing a revolving white light, which warns off mariners from one of the most dangerous points on the const. In the spring of 1711 the British government sent against Quebec 15 men-of-war, under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and 40 transports containing 5,000 veteran soldiers. During a terrible August storm, while they were ascending the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the fleet drove down 0n the Egg Islands. The frigates were saved from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with 1,3&3 men on board, and ''884 brave fellows, who had passed scathless through the sanguinary battles of Blenheim, Ramillies,- and Ondenarde, perished miserably on the desolate shores of the St. Lawrence." This terrible loss was the cause of the total failure of the ex- pedition. The French vessels which visited the isles after Walker's disaster " found the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from which the cannon and best articles had been re- moved, and nearly 3,000 persons drowned, and their bodies lying along the shore. They recognized among them two whole companies of the Queen's Guards, dis- tinguished by their red coats, and several Scotch families, intended as settlers in Canada," among them seven women, all clasping each other's hands. The regi- ments of Kaine, Windresse, Seymour, and Clayton were nearly annihilated in this wreck. '« The French colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched singularly over its preservation, and which, not satisfied with rescuing it from the greatest danger it had yet run, had euriched it with the spoils of an enemy whom it had not had the pains to conquer; hence they rendered Him most heart- felt thanks.'' (Charlevoix.) Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point and the deep bight of Trinity Bay is Point de Monts (or, as some say, Point aux Demons), 280 M. from Que- bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. beyond is Godboul, with its fur-trading post; and 9 M. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- las. 18 M. from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. W. of which is the great Indian trading-post at the Bersimis River, where 700 Indians have their headquarters; thence to Cape Colombier it is ll£ M.j and to the church and fort at Port Ntuf' is 12 M. Point Mi lie Vaches is opposite Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the Sault de Afouton, a fall of 80 ft. There are several settlements of French Catholic farmers along the shore. At Les Escoumains there are 500 inhabitants and considerable quantities of grain and lumber are shipped. The coast is of granite, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to Petite Bergeronne, whence it is 6£ M. to the mouth of the Saguenay River. 234 Route 65. ANTICOSTI. 65. Anticosti The island of Anticosti lies in the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, and is 118 M. long and 31 M- wide. In 1871 it had about 80 inhabitants, in charge of the government lights and stations, and also 50 acres of cleared land and 3 horses. Fox River is 60 M. distant; the Mingan Islands, 30 M.; and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately been the scene of the operations of the Anticosti Land Company, which designed to found here a new Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited success. Anticosti has some woodlands, hut is for the most part covered with black peaty hogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bogs resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted trees. The shores are lined with great piles of driftwood and the frag- ments of wrecks. There are many bears, otters, foxes, and martens; also partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. The months of July and August are rendered miserable by the presence of immense swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. Large whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also found here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places; and marl and peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, S. Point (and a fog-whistle), W. Point (and an alarm-gun), and Heath's Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores since the terrible wreck of the Granicus, on the S. E. point, when the crew reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour each other. None were saved. In 1690 one of Sir William Phipps's troop-ships was wrecked on Anticosti, during the retreat from Quebec, and but 5 of its people survived the winter on the island. When the ice broke up, these brave fellows started in a row-boat for Boston, 900 M. distant; and after a passage of 44 days they reached their old home In aafety. The island was granted in 1691 to the Sieur Joliet, who erected a fort here, but was soon plundered and ejected by the English- In 1814 H. B. M. frigate I.eopard, G0, the same vessel which captured the l). S. frigate Chesapeake was lost here. "The dangerous, desolate shores of Anticosti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human suffering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds; by the slowest and ghastliest of deaths they died, — starvation. Washed ashore from maimed and sinking ships.saved to destruction, they drag theirchilled and battered limbs up the rough rocks; for a moment, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- ing eyes for shelter, — and there is none; the failing sight darkens on hill and forest. forest and hill, and black despair. Hours and days waste out the lamp of life, until at length the withered skeletons have only strength to die." (Euot W&BsllBToN-) PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Querec is bounded on the W. by the Province of Ontario, on the N. by the wilderness towards Hndson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- land, and New York. It covers 18S,GS8 square miles, and its scenery is highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the Province from S. W. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which are beautiful lakes and glens. The Province of Quebec has 1,350,02" inhabitants (census of 1881), the vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,170,718 of the people are Roman Catholies, and the laws of education are modified to suit the system of parish-schools. There are 08,797 Church-of-England people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and 39,221 Methodists; 1,073,820 are of French origin, 123,749 Irish, 81.515 English, and 54,923 Scottish. The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (appointed by the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 80 senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) and 208 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 17,000 souls, or 89 for Ontario, 05 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 10 for New Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 for Manitoba. There arc 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military school at Kingston; and the navy consists of S armed screw-steamers (on the lakes and the Gulf). In 1800 Canada had 210,000 inhabitants; in 1825, 581,920: in 1851, 1,842,205; in 1871, 3,657,887; and in 1831, 4,324,810. Between 1842 and 1872, 831,108 emigrants from Great Britain entered Canada; and in the same period, 4,33S.08G persons, from the same king- dom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and imports of Canada amount to about S 90,000,000 a year. Her chief trade is with Great Brit- ain and the United States, and the main exports are bre.idstuffs and tim- ber. The Dominion has nearly 10,000 M. of railways, and tiiere are more than 0,000 post-offices. The first European explorer who visited this country was Jacques Car- 236 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. tier, who landed at Gaspé in 1534, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the site of Montreal during the following vear. Seventeen years later the ill-fated Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for over half a century Canada was unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while the labors of explorations, missions, and fighting the Iroquois were carried on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under Sir David Kirke, but it was restored to France in 1632. The Company of the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627, to erect settlements in La Nouvelle France, but the daring and merciless in- cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated the unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of Mon- treal and many of its people (1689). The long and bitter wars between Canada and the Anglo-American colonics had now commenced, and New York and New England were ravaged by the French troops and their allied Indians. Naval expeditions were sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting was done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French troops were sent home; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies when they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. Montgomery took Montreal and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to oppose the Americans; and when Arnold was defeated in his attempt to storm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada were formed, in order to stop the discontent of the French population, who were thus separated from the English and Loyalist settlements to the W. In 1791 representative government was established, and in 1793 slavery was abolished. The War of 1812 was waged beyond the boundaries of Lower Canada, except during the abortive attempt of the Americans to capture Montreal. In 1837 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various parts of Carada, and were only put down after much bloodshed. In 1840 the two Provinces were united, after which the seigniorial tenures were abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laws were codified, and other CARLETON. Route 66. 239 turning, the steamer leaves Montreal on Monday, and Quebec on Tues- day, and arrives in Pictou on Saturday morning. Connections are made -with steamboats for the inner ports of the Bay of Clialeur, at Perce, and travellers may thus reach the line of the Intercolonial Railway at Camp- belllon. Halifax to Pictou, see Route 81. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10-12 M. N. are the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear weather. Beyond Baie Vcrte the steamer passes through the narrow part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The course is next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- bor of Shediac is entered. The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in Route 15 (page 60). It- is to be remembered, however, that the Gulf- Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Restigouche, the red sand- stone cliffs of Maguacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Tracadiegash Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales from the N. and E. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there are any passengers or freight to be landed. 240 Route 66. PASPEBIAC. "Carleton is a pretty town, to which a steamer pometimcs runs from Camp- bcllton, rendering the salmon streams in the vicinity quite accessible. When the sun shines, its white cottages, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash Mountain, glisten like snow-Hakes against the sombre background, and gleam out in lovely contrast with the clonds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of the Alleghany range." (Hallock.) The steamer now passes out upon "the undulating and voluptuous Bay of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contours, which the wind caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- ing of the waves without a murmur." On the N. is Cascapediac Buy, on whose shores arc the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and New Richmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. New Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure River, and is the capital of Bonaventure County. It has 700 inhabitants, and is en- gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitors. The churches and court-house occupy a conspicuous position on the high bank which overlooks the bay. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- ists, who received from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, and farming-implements. $400,000 was expended in establishing this settlement and Douglastown. Paspebiac (Clarke's Hotel) is a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the N. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 M. from Quebec. Its harbor is formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M. long, curving to the S., and forming a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The church and houses of the village are built above the red cliffs of the shore, and present the neat and orderly appearance of a military post. On the line of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile establishments which sustain the place. Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles Robin, who established here a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M. frigates Hunter and Piper, but Robin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 1783 he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumulated a great fortune. The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the most powerful on all these coasts, and keeps large fleets employed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy establishments. The heads of the firm live in Jersey, and their officers and man- agers on this coast are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- ploys 750 men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors; and the LcBoutilliers have 580 men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the West Indies and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with all needed products of other countries. Paspebiac receives $100,000 worth of goods yearly, and exports $300,000 worth of fish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in bulk, the second grade goes in tubs to Brazil, and the poorest ».s shipped in casks to the West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in May, spends the summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar- ket is supplied by the Cape-Ann fleet in these waters; and the proceeds of the au- tumnal months are sold in Upper Canada. The annual yield of the Bay of Chaleur is estimated at 26,000 quintals of dry codfish, 600 quintals of haddock, 3,000 bar- PERClL Route 66. 243 and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and Perce" Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the highway near Trench Town, inclnding a vast area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full of interest; and the road through the hills to Gaspe is picturesqnc, though rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Job and the Table Roulante. Upon its red-sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz crystals. *Bonaventure Island forms a great natural breakwater before the Perce shores, and is surrounded by deep channels. It is 2^ M from the main- land, and the passage around the island in a small boat affords a pleasant excursion. Bonaventure is 2.^ M. long and $ M. wide, and is a vast pile of red conglomerate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-500 ft. high, facing the Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There are about 300 French Catholies on the shores, connected with the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. "Perce is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the fantastic stories, to which tradition adds it.-! prestige, that rest about this formidable rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious dread mingled with anguish. Perce proper is a village of 200 firesides, established on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence: this promontory is not lofty, nor does it compare with our northern mountains; but it U wrinkled, menacing, full of a fierce grandeur; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has revealed to it its strength and the power which it holds from God to restrain the waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an archer of the Middle Ages, covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the blows of the enemy. la face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, but immovable as a decree of licaveu, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mur- mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fallen god who expiates in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perce fills us at once with. a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity." (Arthur Buies.) Perce" was visited by Cartier in 1534, and thereafter became a celebrated fishing- station for the French fleets. The coast from Canso to Cape Rosier was granted soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac, who founded a permanent village here, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscans here in 1673 to look after the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perce and the Church of St Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with all Us vessels, by two British frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at Perce and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through the picture of St. Peter. In 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, and the French ships Hiros and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 a desperate naval combat took place off Perce Rock, between the American pri- vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- vessels Wolf and Diligence. Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon- shot of the Rock. 244 RauU 66. GASP& After leaving her anchorage off Perce" the steamship runs N. across the openings of Mai Bay, and at 9 M. out passes Point St. Peter, with its fish- ing-village. The course is next laid to the N. W. up Gaspe Bay, with the fatal strand of the Grand Greve on the r. To the I. is Douglastown, on the broad lagoon at the mouth of the St. John River (famous for salmon). This town was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inhabited by Irish and French people. The vessel now steams in through the narrow strait between the grand natural breakwater of Sandy beach and the N. shore, and enters the * Gaspe Basin. The bay is 20 M. long and 5 M. wide, and the basin is a secure and land-locked harbor at its head. As the steamer rounds the lighthouse on Sandybeach, beautiful views are pre- sented of the broad haven, with the North River Mts. to the W. "The mountains of Gaspe are fair to behold, With their neckings of shadow and gleamings of gold.'' Gaspe (Gulf House) is a town of 800 inhabitants, beautifully situated between the mountains and the sea, and fronting on the S. W. arm of the basin. It is the capital of the county and a free port of entry, and is de- voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of schooners. The Gaspe" codfish are preferred, in the Mediterranean ports, to the Newfoundland fish, because they are not so salty. The chief establishment here is that of the LeBoutilliers, who have also a fine mansion near the village. Petroleum has been found here, and wells 7 - 800 ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gaspe" is visited by 2-300 city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool and sparkling air, and the conveniences for yachting and for fishing. The York and Dartmouth Rivers empty into the basin, and are famous for their game-fish. The adjacent shores are fertile and are thickly settled, and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a hill to the S. is Fort Ramsay, a line of guns among the trees. This is the first point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. Fort- nightly mail-packets run from Gaspe" to Esquimaux Bay, on the Labrador coast (see page 230). '• What a glorious sight! Imagine a bay 20 M. long ending in a basin where a fleet of a thousand vessels could be sheltered. On right and left, two rivers, which are parted by the port, sweep around the amphitheatrical shores; hills here and there of savage outline or covered with rounded lawns; below, a little line of piers, fishing-vessels, schooners and some brigs swinging their slackened sails in the light breeze which blows from the shores ; something wild, fresh, and vigorous, like the first spring of a great creation. The Gasp6 Basin has traits of the giant and of the infant; it astonishes and charms; it has a harmony at once delicate and striking." (AETHua Buies.) The Indians of Gaspe were distinguished, in a remote age, for unusual advances In civilization. They knew the points of the compass, traced maps of their country, observed the positions of the stars, and worshipped the symbol of the cross. They informed the early Jesuit missionaries that in far distant ages they were scourged by a fatal pestilence, until a venerable man landed on their shore, and arrested the progress of the disease by erecting the cross (see Peue Leclerc's Nouvelle Relation de CAPE ROSIER. Route 67. 247 the summit of Cape Diamond to see the ' porpoises, white as snow/ sporting on the surface of the harbor of Quebec. In Cham plain's day it was commonly called ' the Great Itivex of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogilby's * Amer- ica of 1670,' in (he map Novi Dtt^i, it is called ' De Groote Kivicr van Niew Ne- derlandt' It rises ucar another father of waters, the Mississippi, issuing from a remarkable spring far up in the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 M. in circum- ference; and several other springs there are thereabouts which teed it. It makes such a noise in its tumbling down at one place as is heard all round the world. Douchette, the Surveyor-General of the Canadas, calls it ' the most splendid river on the globe '; says that it is 'J,000 M. long (more recent geographers make it 4 -500 M. longer ); that at the Riviere du Snd it is 11 M. wide; at the Paps of Matanc, 25; at the Seven Islands, 73; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Mingan Settle- ments in Labrador, 90 M. wide. It has much the largest estuary, regarding both length and breadth, of any river on the globe- Perhaps Charlevoix describes the St Lawrence truly as the most navigable river in the world. Between Montreal and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is feit as far up as Three Rivers, 432 M.f which is as far as from Boston to Washington. The geographer Guyot ob- serves that the Maranon is 3,000 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surface of 1,500,000 square M.; that the Mississippi is also 3,000 M. long, but its basin covers only 8-900,000 square M.; that the St. Lawrence is 1,800 M. long, and its basin covers 1.000,000 square M. ; and speaking of the lakes, he adds: 'These vast fresh- water seas, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square M.,and it has been calculated that they contain about one half of all the fresh water on the surface of our planet.' Pilots say there are no soundings till 150 M. up the St. Lawrence. McTagjiart, an engineer, observes that ' the Ottawa is larger than all the rivers in Great Britain, were they running in one.' The traveller Grey writes: 'There is not perhaps in the whole extent of this immense continent so fine an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, in general, a level country for many miles inland; here you are introduced at once into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls.' We have not yet the data for a minute com- parison of the St. Lawrence with the South American rivers; but it is obvious that, taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its falls, it easily bears off the palm from all the rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed from Thoreau's A Yankee in Canada.) 'Bien loin de sci courbia, aoua l'ombrc dei platanea, L'Arahe au blanche burnous qui suit les caravancs Sur les sables errant Decoiivre moins joycux son oasis humide, Que lei Canadiens sous la saison torride Lcur fleuve Saint-Laurcot. 'A nous ses champs d'azur et ses f ratchet rctraites, Les Hots couronncs de mourantea aigrettes, Les inonts andacieux. Les ar6mcs piquants que la mer v depose Et son grand horizon oil votre ceil se repose Com me 1 eloile aux cieux." L. J. C. Fiset. "Sur cea bordt enchantca, notre mere, la France, A laissu de sa gloire un immortcl sillon, Precipitant ses flats vers 1'ocean immense, Le noble Saint-Laurent redit eocor son nom. "Salut, o ma belle patric' Salut, 0 bonis du Saint-Laurent Tcrre que I'etrenger envic, Et qii'ii rcgrettc en la quittant- Hcureux qui pcut passer sa vie, Toujours fid tie a te servir; Et dans tes bras, mere chcric, Pcut rendreson dernier soupir. 'Salut, o ciel de ma patrie I Salut, 6 noale Saint-Laurent I Ton nom dans mon ame attendrle Rcpaml un parfum enivrant. O Canada, nls de la France^ Qui te couvrit dc ses bienfaits, Toi, notre amour. notrc espcrance, Qui pourra toublier jamais?" O. Ckkhazik. Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 fcf. beyond Cape Gaspe*, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose month at this point is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone lighthouse tower, 112 ft. high, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn. The hamlets of Grand Greve, Griffin's Cove, and Cape Rosier are in this vicinity, and are inhabited by French people, who are de- 248 Route 67. CAPE MAGDELAINE. pendent on the fishing-establishment of William Hyman & Sons, of Gasp':. "The coast between Cape Rosier and Cape Chatte is high and bold, free from dangers, and destitute of harbors," and is lined with a majestic wall of mountains composed of slate and graywacke. They are covered with forests, and afford successions of noble views, sometimes of amphithe- atrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges of the rivers. "How can it be that men inhabit this harsh, arid, rough, almost hateful country, which extends from Cape Chattc to the Gaspe' Ba^in? One can scarcely imagine. Yet, ns you see, here and there appear parcels of tilled land, bouses scattered along the banks, anil little churches at various points." "The peninsula of Gaspe, the land's end of Canada towards the E., from Its geo- logical formation of shale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges toward the sea and dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling cliffs running down to a narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting-place even to the fishermen, except where they have been cut down by streams, and present little coves and bays open- ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that stand rank after rank behind the great sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between." 7 M. N. VV. of Cape Rosier the settlement at Griffin's Cove is passed; and 6 M. farther on is Fox River (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with one of the Isle-of-Jersey fishing-establishments, a large Catholic church, and a court-house. The cod and mackerel fisheries are followed in the adjacent waters, and large American fleets are often seen off the port. The grand highway from Quebec ends here, but a rugged road runs down to Gaspe in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M. farther W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- laine (red-and-white revolving light, visible 15-20 M.) at the mouth of-the River Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. "Where is the Canadian sailor, familiar with this coast, who has not heard of the plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered by the Braillard Ue la Magdelaine? Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by himself in this locality, wherein a troubled spirit seeks to make known the torments it endures? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner ask tug for Christian burial for its bones, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose? Is it the voice of the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witnessed its commission? . . . - For it is well known that Gaspe wreckers have not always contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometimes sought conceal- ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is silent and reveals not its secrets." The Abbe Casgrain attributes these weird sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was lost by dying unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, and the sound of his moaning has ever since been heard off these dark shores. An- other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- out the stormy night. "Where La Magdelaine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers of limestone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and waves, assume the most fantastic shapes, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose." The strange wailing which is heard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the wind through the pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh creaking. CAPE CHATTE. Route 67. 249 Pleurese Point is 12 M. from Cape Magdelaine, and is near the remote hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild cliffs front the shore for the next 28 M., to Cape St. Anne, near which is the French Catholic village of St. Anne des Monts, which has 250 inhabitants and a consulate of Itaiv. The adjacent waters abound in mackerel, cod, halibut, and herring, and great quantities of salmon and trout arc caught in the River St. Anne. The stately peaks of the * St. Anne Mountains are seen on the S., com- mencing 12 M. S. W. of Cape St. Anne and running in a S. W. course for 40 M., nearly parallel with the river and 20-25 M. inland. These moun- tains are the most lofty in Canada, and are visible for 80-90 M. at sea, in clear weather. The chief peak is 14 M. from Cape Chatte, and is 3,973 ft. high. "All those who come to New France know well enough the mountains of Notre Dame, because the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river which is opposite to those high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new passengers, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this baptism which is made to flow plentifully on their heads." (Lalemant, lti-iS.) Cape Chatte is 15 M. N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white flashing light which is visible for 18 M. Cape Chatte was named in honor of the officer who sent out the expedition of 1603, under Pontgrave and Lescarbot. His style was Eymard de Chaste, Knight of Malta, Commander of Lormetan, (irand Master of the Order of St. Lazarus, and Governor of Dieppe. Somewhere in this broad reach of the river occurred the chivalrous naval battle between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Emery de Caen (son of Lord de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing against Tadousac, when she was attacked (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abigail cut away a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. The loss on each ship was considerable. The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 35 M. wide, and on the N- shore is Point de Monts (see page 233). It is 33 M. from Cape Chatte to Matane, in which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire and St. Felicite. In 1688 the Sieur Riverin established a sedentary fish- ery at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 300 in- habitants, devoted to farming and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy beach. There is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane River. The remarkable peaks called the Caps of Matane .are to the S.W., in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Commit may be seen, 40 M. distant, S. W. by W. J W., like an island on the remote horizon. The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. VV. 22 M. to Petit Metis, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Kail- way. Metis is a little way W.f and is occupied by 250 French Catholies 11* 250 Route 67. EIMOUSKX. and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf; and the people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse and telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- habitants. Here the outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near this place are the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see paae 70). A few miles S. E. is Ml. CamUle, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father Point (Pointe au Pert) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and brant are killed here in great numbers during the long easterly storms. St. Germain de Rimouski (Hotel St. Laurent; Rimouski Hotel) is 6 M. from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an important station on the Intercolonial Railway, and the capital of Rimouski County and of a Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200-1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and other public buildings. The Canadian government has built a large and substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. Rimouski was founded in 1688, and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bishopric- "Rimouski, the future metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, a little city full of promise and fur- rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of refuge where the great ocean-steamers will stop in passing, and will attract all the commerce of the immense region of the Me taped ia, the future granary of our country." The Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of trout. Barnaby Island is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of Rimouski. It was known by its present name in 1629, when the Heet of the Kirkes assembled here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who avoided women and passed most of his time in hitt oratory. Some say that he was wrecked off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, that he had been disappointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people from Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog licking his chilling face. BIc Island was formerly called he Pic, but was named St. Jean by Cartier, who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. It was inclnded in the scheme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17th century) for the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- time fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But this Moot St. Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place was taken by Wolfe's British fleet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759; and when the Trent affair threatened to involve the United States and Great. Britain in war, in 1301, British troops were landed at Bic, on the main shore, from the orcan-stcamship Persia, and were carried hence in sleighs to Riviere du Loup. Near this point is IS Islet au Massacre, where, according to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were once sur- prised at night by the Iroquois. while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful enemy silently filled the rave's mouth with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting the unfortunate Micnmes ss they leaped through the flame». 195 of the latter were elain, and it is clai™™' "^Mjtetr bones strewed the islet until within a few yean. TROIS PISTOLES. Route 67. 251 Ste.-Cdcile du Bic (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- lage of 600 inhabitants, with a good harbor and a large and ugly church. It is 9 M. from Rimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. The Bay of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to be overlooked in one glance; a shore cut into deep notches, broken with fiats, enpes, and beaches; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the world's material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, affording beautiful views. Wonderful mirages are seen off this port, and out towards Point de Mouts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft. high; and the bay receives two rivers, which descend tn cascades and rapids from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the S- will attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthicu, with its great quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway; and St. Simon, near a pretty highland lake. The rocky islets of Rosade are 2 M. off the shore of Notre Damedes Anges,and are decorated with a large cross, in memory of a marvellous escape. Some 30 years ago the St. Lawrence froze for (J M. out from the parish, and many hundreds of scats were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange visitors, but the ice snddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were now 4 M from the shore. Their families and friends bade them an eternal farewell, and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution in preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upon the isle of Rosade- Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwards erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitnde. Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has induced several Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, who was tending his nets near his rnde hut, what he would charge to ferry him across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. "What is the name of this river?" asked the traveller. "It has no name; it will be baptized at a later day." "Well, then,'' said the traveller, "name it Trois Pistoles." The river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. "That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and Goose I .-bunt is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. The water is salt, but clear nnd cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The white porpoise yields an oil of the best quality, and its skin makes good leather. 252 Route G7. KAMOURASKA. The Gulf-Ports steamship does not stop between Father Point and Quebec, but the villages described in this itinerary may be visited from Quebec; those on the S. shore by railway, and St. Paul's Bay, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Rimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore from Cape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Route 72. The vessel steams up by Green Island, which is 6-7 M. long, and shel- ters the large manufacturing village of hie Verte, whence fine butter is sent to Quebec. On the r. is Red Island, with its tall stone lighthouse, off which is a lightship. Cacouna and Riviere du Loup (see Route 72) are next passed, on the I., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep islets called the Brandy Pots (Pots-a-Feau-de-vie) on the r. The S. islet bears a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convoying frigates. N. of these islets is Hare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the five remarkable islets called The Pilgrims, about l£ M. from the S. shore and 4 4 M. in aggregate length. The Long Pilgrim is 300 ft. high and par- tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the pretty village of Kamouraska (Albion Hotel), with its great Church of St. Louis and Congregationnl Convent. The river-water at this point is as salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. Lawrence before Cacouna arose. '' Who does not know Kamouraska t Who does not know that it is a charming village, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the river like a naiad, and coquettishly viewing the reflections of its two long ranges of white houses, .... so near the river that from all the windows the great waves may be contemplated and their grand voices heard? On all sides, except towards the S-, the horizon extends as far as the eye can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue curtain of the Laurentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea. .... These isles are the favorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bathe, or seek other amusements. Le pique-nique is much in vogue there, and the truest joys are felt." St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 6 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk Railway. "Bel endroit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, Ses coutcaux, ses vallons, sa route sinueuse! Cost la Suisse ou l'Auvergne avee leurs gais chalets, Leurs monts, leurs pres en pente et leurs jardins coquets." Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Murray Bay (see Route 72). On the level plains to the S. is seen the tall Church of St. Denis, with its attendant village; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- lage of Riviere Ouelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Near this point is the quaint Casgrain manor-house, now over a century old. This parish is named for Madam Houel, wife of Comptroller-General Houel, who was captured here by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beach is a rock which ST. ANNE DE LA POCATlfiRK Route 67. 253 bears the plain impress of three snow-shoes, and formerly had the marks of human feet and hands. In 1690 the priest of Riviere Onellc led his parishioners, and drove back the New-Englanders of Sir William Phipps's fleet.* Back among the hills are the hamlets of St. Onisime and St. Pacome. St. Anne de la Pocatiere (two hotels) is a large and prosperous town, 72 M. below Quebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper (La Gazette des Campagnes), and a convent. ''Nature has given to St. Anne charm- ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Anne's College is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous chapel. It has 30 professors (ecclesiasties) and 230 stndents, and is main- tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and beauty. As the steamer passes St. Anno the frowning mass of Mt. Lboulcments is seen on the N. shore. A faw miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. Roch-des-Aulnaies is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is St. Jean-Port~JoU, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of De Gaspe's popular romance, "Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux Condres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the islet called the Stone Pillar, on which there is a lighthouse, and l4 M. farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- perous village of L'lslet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island (Z/ Isle aux Grues) by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, -when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a breeding-place. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. During the French regime these islands (Les Isles de Sts-Marguerite) were erected Into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He built a massive stone house on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane; but this report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the island was regarded with dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at last he died. Beyond the S. shore village of Cap St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. The College Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Snd falls 30 ft. On the r., beyond St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive Cape Tourmente frowns. QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 68. Quebec. Arrival.— If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or the hotel omnibus to the Upper Town. The caliche is not adapted for carrying lug- gage. Hotel:*.—The *St. Louis Hotel is a largo house near the Dufferin Terrace, kept by Willis Russell, an American gentleman. It accommodates 500 guests, and charges $ 2.50 -3.50 a day. The Russell House is a large modern hotel, near the St. Louis, and under the same management. Its terms are lower than those of the St. Louis. The Albion Hotel is on Palace St., and charges S2.50 a day. Hencbey's Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and moderate, for gentlemen travelling en jargon. The Mountain-Hill House, on Mountain-Hill St., and Itlanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame des Victoires, are second-class houses, charging about $ 1.50 a day. There arc several good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Ixmis St.; Mrs. MeDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss Lane, 44 St. Anne St.; Mis. Boyce, l Garden St. Comfortable quarters may bo ob- tained at these houses for about S 10 a week. Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- thedral, and beyond St. John's Gate. The carriages in the I^oworTown are less ele- gant and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excursions in the suburbs in summer are from $3 to S4 for 1-3 persons (to Moniinorcuci Falls, Lorctte, Cap ilouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. Tho caliche-iirivers of the Lower Town usually demand .$2 for carrying 1-2 persons to the outer suburban resorts. The caiiche is a singular and usually very shabby- looking vehicle, perched ou two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, "Marche-donc.'" Horse-Gars run between St. Onrs, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain Market, every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare is 5c. Reartlng-Rooms.—The elegant library of the Quebec Literary and His- torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Institut Canadien is at 57 Fabrique St.; and the Y. M. C. Association Hall is a splendid building, erected in 1879-80, on St. John St., just outside the gate. Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-offices, but are kept on sale by the booksellers. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity of the French Cathedral, or Basilica. Railways. — The Grand Trunk Railway has Its terminal station at Point Levi, 317 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from New York. Passengers take the Grand Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The North Shore Railway runs from Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa, along the N. shore of the St. Lawrence. The Quebec and Lake St. John Railway runs to St. Raymond, a hand- some French village of 1,600 inhabitants, 42 M. distant, and is being prolonged to Lake St. John. Stages run from its station of St. Ambroise to Indian Lorette and from Valcartier Station to Valcartier. Steamships- —The steamships of the Allan line leave Quebec for Lough Foyle and Liverpool and Glasgow every Saturday, during the season of summer-navigation. The Dominion Line also sends steamships weekly to Liverpool. The vessels of the Quebec S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, 176 M. ; Metis, 207; Gaspe, 443; Perce', 472; Summerside, 710; Charlotte town. 784; and Pictou, 820. The St. Lawrence S. N. Co. runs to Bay St. Paul, 55 M.; Eboulement, 6li; Murray Bay, 82j Riviere du Loup, 112; Tadousac, 134; L'Anse St. Jeau, 106; Ha! Ha! Bay, 207; Chicoutimi, 235. Smaller boats run to Pointo aux Trembles, 21, Les ficu- reuils, 27; Platon and Portneuf, 36; Deschambault, 45; Grondines, 48; and St. Anne de la Perade, 58; also to St. Lambert, 9; and St. Jean, 17 ; also, during the pilgrimage-season, to St. Anne de Beau pre. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi several times an hour; and to the Isle of Orleans. 256 Route 68. QUEBEC. Querec, "the Gibraltar of America," and the second city in the Do- minion of Canada, is situated on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, 160 M. from Montreal, and over 400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 75,000 inhabitants, with 6 banks, 6 Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- ling and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence shore, above the city, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- erable export trade in grain is also done here, and the various supplies of the populous counties to the N. and E. are drawn from this point. Ship-building is a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size have been launched from the shipyards on the St. Charles; but the business has fallen of! very considerably of late. Of late years several important manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, and the city is expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here of several lines of railway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, and making it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduction of an abun- dant and powerful water supply from Lake St. Charles and the establish- ment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the city, during late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which it was for- merly scourged. A second main was laid in 1883. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the former standing on an enwalled and strongly forti- fied bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crooked, and often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediaeval- looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. "Take mountain and plain, sinuous river, and broad, tranquil waters, stately ■hip and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flow- ery garden and sombre forest, — group them all into the choicest picture of ideal beauty your fancy can create, arch it over with a clondless sky, light it up with a radiant sun, and lest the sheen should be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze over all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose,—you will then have seen Quebec on this September morning." (Eliot Warrurton.) "Quebec recalls Angouleme to my mind: in the upper city, stairways, narrow streets, ancient houses on the verge of the cliff; in the lower city, the new fortunes, commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shops and much activity.'' (M. Sand ) "The scenic beauty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic appearance of Cape Diomond and the fortifications,— the cupolas and minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling In the sun, — the loveliness of the panorama, — the noble basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety a hundred sail of the line, — the graceful meandering of the river St. Charles, — the numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence,— the fertile fields dotted with innumerable cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the distant Falls nf MafjgKM«nci, — the park-tike scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous Isle of Orl feaore distant still, the frowning Cape Tourmente, and the lofty QUEBEC. Route 68. 257 range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, unite to form a coup d'ait, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world." (Hawkins.) "I rubbed my eyes to be sure that I was in the nineteenth century, and was not entering one of those portals which sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black- letter volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. It was such a reminiscence of the Middle Ages as Scott's novels. "Too much has uot been said about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of Cape Diamond are omnipresent. You travel 10, 20, 30 M up or down the river's banks, you ramble 15 M- among the hills on cither side, and then. when you have long since forgotten them, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the road or of your body. there they are still, with their geometry against the sky No wonder if Jaques Carticr's pilot exclaimed in Norman-French, Que Lee! (' What a peak!') when he saw this cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller invol- untarily uses a sinnlar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been compared by European travellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind in Europe, such as from Edinburgh Castle, Gibraltar, Cintra, and others, and pre- ferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli- tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remember the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver In the sun, — the answering head- lands of Point Levi on the S. E , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptly bounding the seaward view far in the N. E., — the villages of Lorettc and Charlesbourg on the N., —and farther W. the distant Val Cartier, sparkling with white cottages, hardly removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few blue mountains along the horizon in that direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills, according to the guide-book, forms ' the portal of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hndson's Bay-'" (Thoread.) '' There is no city In America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the sur- rounding scenery reminds one of the uurivalled views of the Dosphorus, the airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh Quebec may be best described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had been encased in amber) transported by magic to Canada, and placed ou the summit of Cape Diamond." "Quebec, at least for an American city, Is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- tary town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants; most compactly and permanently built, — stone its sole material; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls. and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon; . . . . founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country; 3-400 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent,and yet displaying fleets of foreign mer- chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- port; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous declivities; situated in the latitnde of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia; governed by a people of different language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious: such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. A scat of ancient Dominion, — now hoary with-the lapse of more than two centuries, — formerly the seat of a French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of illustrious commanders, —throned on a rock,and defended by all the prond defiance of war! Who could.approach such a city without emotion! Who in Canada has not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (Prof. Siluman; in 1820.) "Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- mercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean; an American city Inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch regiments; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government; a European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren nits. of the North; a city with about the same 258 Route 68. QUEBEC. latitnde as Paris, while successively combining the torrid climate of southern regions with the severities of an hyperborean winter; a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterrupted along- side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuge under the regis of British Puritanism." (X. Marjcier's Lttlres sur VAmerique, 1860.) "Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and posterns. cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs of burnished tin, like those of Liege; processions of the Host; altars decked with flowers; statues of the Virgin; sabots; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British lines- man,— all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched- They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did their Norman sires, — and keep up the fieur-dt-lys and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the French are the Lower Canada habitant. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here." (Sir Charles Dilke.) "Curious old Quebec! of all the cities of the continent of America the most quaint! It is a peak thickly populated! a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the same time smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the bouses and castles, although according to the ordinary laws of matter they ought to fall off like a bur- den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the [houses and castles bold there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on this side of the ocean. U'e traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere! When Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up near Hndson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new Ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort la vogue in the 19th century." (Henry Ward Bercher.) "On l'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fleuve ses creneaux beauts. Le voyageur s'^tonne, apres avoir admire les bords verdoyants et fleuris du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissantes raniures pleines de mysteres et d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout a coup cette ville qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait moins etrange sur les bords du Rhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Quebec ifest pas une ville oil IV tranger vienne se distrain; et chercher d'oubli un theatre a grands luxes, i grands spectacles C'est peut-etre la seule ville du monde ou les gens aient droit de se plaindre et ou lis ne se plaignent pas. J'ai cent que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable; elle cleve son front superbe et se cambre avec fiertc dans sa robe de pierre. Kile a conserve un air des temps chevalerepques, elle a soutenu des sit'ges, elle a rer;u son bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse tlevi'e comme un nid d'aigle sur un roc sourcilleux, on se croirait dans une ville du moycu Age, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumtes aux bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence drune sentinelle. Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d'evenements ont etc accompli! Quelle lutte plelne de poesie hcroique! Que de vicissitndes! et quel courage! En quelque lieu que vous allies, a la basse-ville, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur lea rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parte & voi yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierref menies sont autour de vous comme les fantomes qui reflichissent le passe." QUEBEC. RotUe 6S. 259 The Dufferin Terrace is on the rirerward edge of the Upper Town, and begins on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620, and extends for a quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- nade of the sort in the world- It was opened on June 10, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined bv (ire. The terrace is 182 tt. above the river, and commands a *view of surpassing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the lofty fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- yond are seen the farms of L'Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fercol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river. and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. On the site cf the Old Chateau erected in 1779 for the British Governors a great modern hotel is in process of construction. "There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the guard-chips' masts. Acre upon acre of tinilx'r comes floating down the stream abo.e the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon tin* height.«; and beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- ing the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be seen.'' (Sir Charles Dilks) "On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Lower Town has illuminated its narrow streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, tho scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities; it might be called a city of France or Italy transplanted; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is deeded to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America."' "At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces had acquired the rndiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St Louis was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised an Immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans.. The banner which fir-: streamed from the battlements of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this Inriod the coun- cil chamber of the castle wan the scene of many a mi Inight vigil, many a long delib- eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic. lily At another period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British anus, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which the Castle of Quebec «w the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- tinent north of Mexico." (Hawkins.) 260 Route 68. QUEBEC. The Anglican Cathedral occupies the site of the ancient Recollet Con- vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 135 ft. long, with a spire 152 ft. high. It was built by the British government in 1803-4, and received its superb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, which makes pleasant music on Sundays; and the windows are of rich stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hung the old Crimean colors of the 69th Regiment of the British army. Under the altar lie the remains of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- ernor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, on a background of black marble. Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, "If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difficulty.M "How so?" said the king. Mountain answered, "If you had faith, you would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done" It was. Between the cathedral and the Dufferin Terrace is a pretty little park called the Place (V Arnies, beyond which are the crumbling ruins of the court-house, destroyed by fire in 1871. Beyond the court-house (on St Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time structures of the St. Louis Hotel and the ancient Crown-Lands building, known as the Kent House, from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Oppo- site the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber- shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs out through the ramparts, traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and is prolonged beyond the walls as the Grand Alle*e, passing the magnifi- cent new Parliament Buildings. The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town. The Jesuits' College has recently been torn down, and its place remains drearily empty. Markets are not now held on the Square, but outside St. John's Gate. "A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, where a little belated traffic still lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering over baskets of Mich fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved mechanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the arch of which were still the letter' I. H S. carved long ago on the keystone; and the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, hud every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint ■tone houses — ions and shops—formed the upper side of the square, while the modern buildinga of the Hue Kabiiquc on the lower side might serve very well for 2G2 Route 68. QUEBEC. on Christ, Restoul (in the choir); the Nativity, copy from Annibale Ca- racci; Holy Family, Blanchard. The Basilica occupies the site of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Recou- vrancc, built in 1033 by Cham plain, in memory of the recovery of Canada by France. Within its walls arc buried Bishops Laval and Plessis; Cbamplain, the heroic ex- plorer, founder and first Governor of Quebec; and the Count de Frontenac, the fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 168S to 1698. After his death his heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to bis widow, in France, but the prond countess refused to receive it, saying that she would uot have a dead heart, which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful Anne de la Grand-Trianon, surnamed The Divine'') was the friend of Mudnuie de Sevigne, and was alienated from Froiiteuac on account of his love-alTuir with the brilliant Vcrsaillaise, Madame de Montespau. Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, were bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of the Archbishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- ment Building and the Grand Battery. The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N-, and covers several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seminaire and Lt Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the stndy of litera- ture and science (for boys), and the course extends over nine years. Boarders pay $ 150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- ing. The stndents may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar uniform. The quadrangle, with its old and irregular buildings; the spot- less neatness of the grounds; the massive walls and picturesquely outlined groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. "No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you are introduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his soutane, with all the polish, learning, and bonhornmie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- ducted over the building in a courteous manner. The Seminary Chapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- trance): the Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, La Grent'e; the Virgin attended by Angels, Diem the Crucifixion, Monet; the Hermits of the Thebaid, QuUloi; the Vision of St. Jerome, D'Huliin; the Ascension, Philippe de Champagne; the Burial of Christ, Hutin; (over the altar) the Flight into Egypt, Vantno; above which is a picture of Angels, Lebrun; the Trance of St. Anthony, Farmed d' Avignon; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne; St. Peter freed from Prison,!)* la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, Halle; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. Champagne; Adoration of the Magi, Bonnieu. ''The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- tains the relies of St. Clement; that on the I. the relies of St. Modes tug." The Seminary of Quebec was founded In 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 there were 54 teachers and stndents: in 1810 there were 110; and there are now over 400 (exclusive of the University stndents). "When we awake its departed shades, they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and stood QUEBEC. Route 68. 263 serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish of a far-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shame the boldest sons of toil." The * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and the ram- parts, and may be reached from St. Famille St. The main building is 280 ft. long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost S 225,000. The roof is a flat sanded platform,securely eurailed, where the stndents promenade and enjoy the grand * view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian Mts. Vis- itors are admitted to the collections of the University on application to the janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of Quebec, a portrait of I'ins IX., by Pasqualoni, and other paintings. The large hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, with galleries for ladies. The chem- ical laboratory is a fire-proof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- lege, London; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The *mineral museum was prepared by the late Mrb& Haiiy, an eminent scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of Canada, with a rare and valuable collection of crystals. It fills a long series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; with prepared specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 70,000 volumes (about half of which are French), arranged in two spacious halls, from whose windows delightful views are obtained. The * Picture-Gal- Ury has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. The works are mostly copies from the old masters, though there are sev- eral undoubted originals. It is by far the finest gallery N. of New York, and should be carefully stndied. The visitor should also see the brilliant collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- stantial stone buildings near the University, over the gardens. The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop of Quebec, and has been the central power of the Catholic Church in this Province for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1862, and has had the privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pins IX. The processes of stndy are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 5, and medicine has 8. There are also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. The Parliament Building is on the site of Champlain's fort and the old Episcopal Palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose glory has departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. The Legislative Council of the Province meets in a pleasant hall, upholstered and carpeted in crim- son, with a very large throne, over which is a canopy surmounted by the arms of the United Kingdom. There are spacious galleries for visitors. The hall of the House of Assembly is on the front of the building, and is upholstered in green. Back of the speaker's chair is a line of Corinthian pilasters upholding a pediment on which are the Royal Arms. The * Li- 264 Route 68. QUEBEC. trary occupies a large and quiet apartment on the first floor, and is rich in French-Canadian literature. Such glory as was loft after the decapitaliza- tion, hereinbefore referred to, was conclusively removed on the night of April 19, 1881, when the old Parliament Building (except part of its west wing) was destroyed by fire. Mountain-Hill St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the Lower Town, winding down the slope of the cliff. On the r., about £ of the way down, arc the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montague, a steep, crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des Victoires (see page 271). Near the foot of the steps is a grating, over the place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. The Cote la Montagne has reminded one author of Naples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of Malta. The new Post-Office is a handsome stone building at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded, under which is the inscription: — '' Je siiis un chien qui ronpc Vos; (" I am a dog gnawing a bone. En lc rongeant jc prend mon repos. While I gnaw I lake my repose. Un temps riendra qui n'est pai vena The time will come, though not yet, Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu." When I will bite him who now bites me.") This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had suffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put into the front of Philibert's house, that gentleman was assassinated by an officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and was killed, at Pondi- cherry, after a severe conflict. The Post-Office occupies the site of the Grand Place of the early French town, on which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- less Iroquois. Here afterwards lived the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson fell in love, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to get him away. '' How many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe! how many new horizons in history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782! Without doubt. Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent: and that because an amorous young naval officer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian girl!" Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but afterwards King William IV. of England, followed a young lady home in an un- seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. The * Ursuline Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious pile of buildings, commenced in 16S6, and covering 7 acres with its gardens and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors and chapel may be visited by permission of the chaplain (whose office is adjacent); and in the hitter are some valuable paintings: * Christ at the Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne; Saints Nonus and Pelagins, Prndhomme; the Saviour Preaching, P. de Champagne; the Miraculous Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet; Captives at Algiers, JRestout; St. 266 Route 68. QUEBEC. roystering naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was re- turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. The * H6tel-Dieu Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Ram- part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in which 650 sick persons can he accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: the Nativity, by Stella; the Virgin and Child, Coypel; the Vision of St. Teresa, Menf- geot; St. Bruno in .Meditation, Le Stteur (called '"the Raphael of Franco"); the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the Twelve Apostles, by Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, bv Rubens (over the high altar). The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Duchesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- lieu) in 1639. In 1654 one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. There arc 30 -40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital is opeu freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attendance by the best doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will interest the visitor. The most precious relic in the Hotel-Dicu is a silver bust (in life size) of Brebcuf, In whose base is preserved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Brebcuf, a Nor- man Jesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Cham plain in 1633, and went to the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said: " Seniio me vekementer impelli ad moriendum proChristo "; and his wish was gratified when his mission-town of St. Ignace was stormed by the Iroquois (in 1649). He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot; the savages cut away his lower lip, and thrust a red-hot iron down his throat; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot collars (:i but the indomitable priest stood like a rock"); poured boiling water over his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism; cut strips of flesh from his limbs, and ate them before his eyes; scalped him; cut open his breast, and drank his living blood; filled his eyes with live coals; and after four hours of torture, a chief tore out his heart and devoured it. "Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the founder of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr- He came of a noble race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel; but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- digious a constancy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- ishment of his murderers.'" The delicate and slender Lalemant, Brebeuf's col- league on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and exquisite varieties of torment. "It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he offered his sufferings to Heaven as a sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. Around- the Ramparts. * The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be "the coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned by Canadian militia- men, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The ** view from the most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the Duffcrin Te^ace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The 268 Route 0S, QUEBEC. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (within), and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John's Gate, crossing the new Kent Gale, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the antiquated ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. arc the Con- gregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's Ward and the new Parliament Building are on the I. * St. John's Gate is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rally- ing his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the I. is St. John's Ward (see page 269); and the road to St. Foy passes below. The ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteui! and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the Artillery Barracks, amid fine grounds at the S. W. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Govern- ment has since made large additions. The barracks arc now occupied by Government works. On and near St. Helene St. are several churches, — St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Con- gregational. After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy tho crest of the cliff, and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- dens for nearly 600 ft. The streets which intersect the Rampart beyond this point are of a quaint and pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Howells: "The thresholds and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth; the wooden sidewalk was very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot of the hill down which it sloped was a breadth of the city wall, pierced formusketry, and, past the corner of one of the houses, the half-length of cannon showiog. It had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old-World travel, in which the past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect that not only wins the eye, but, however illogically, touches the heart; and over the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European street can command: the St. Lawrence, blue and wide; a bit of the white village of Beau port on its bank; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows; then the purple heights; and the hazy heaven above them." Since Prescott Gate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe'there is a more mediaeval -looking bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and the gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set thick with mighty bolts and spikes. The wall here sweeps along the brow of the crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stonc-parapeted curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between this alley and the water; but the old Sault ail Matelot still crouches and creeps 270 RouU 68. QUEBEC. and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles valley, commanding fine views. Just above the nunnery is the Convent of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); bey*ond which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by Ptamondon, a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. from this church to the Grande Allee, passing just inside the line of the Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about & SI. from St. John's Church. "Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing lmnioary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg, until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) "A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St. Charles, bathing in tender light the- long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- ever." (Marshall.) The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond which are the pleasant borders of the Grand All^e. The Convent of the Good Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's "Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 600 girl-stndents. Tho dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand Allee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to take care of the widows and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near the corner of De Salaberry St. is St. Bridget's Asylum, connected with St. Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. The Martello Towers arc four in number, and were built outside tho extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of heights. They were erected in 1807-12, at an expense of 3 60,000, and are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about $ M. in advance of the towers, and is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on the edge of the Plains of Abraham'(extending to the S.), is a monument consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a squaro base. - ^BU the inscription: blithe QUEBEC. Route 68. 271 HERE DIED WOLFE victorious. Sept. 13. 1759. "The horror of the night, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he with a handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- minating life where his fame began Ancient story may be ransacked, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to rank with Wolfe's." (William Pitt.) Tlie Lower Town. The most picturesque approach from the Upper to the Lower Town is by the Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the longlines of steam- boat wharves. Notre Dame des Viotoires is in the market square in the Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame des Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- stroyed by the conquering British; and in 1759 it was burned during the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious Champlain Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great timber-coves above. St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is named Sault au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the great piers of Pointe a Carey and to the imposing classic building of the *Custom-House, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers. St Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. The Queen's Fuel- Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the fendal splendor of the old French nobtrsse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- noyed the g,rrisuu that tue buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from tlie batteries of the Upper Town. It is uow a Ua> and cattle market. 272 QUEBEC. Route 68. St. Paul St. is prolonged by St. Joseph St., the main thoroughfare of this quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartier and St. Roch Wards. The latter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyards (on the shores of the St. Charles); and the narrow and plank-paved streets of Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian artisans. St. Roch's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Content of Notre Dame is opposite St. Roch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who teach 725 children. The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modern building, in Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St. Ours St., near the St. Charles. They were founded by St. Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1693), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this work, erecting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings by Légaré, with an Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. Pointe aur Liéires, or Hare Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- ows of the St. Charles. It is supposed to be the place where the pious Franciscan monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jaques Cartier's winter-quarters in 1536 were here, and on leaving this point he carried off the Indian king, Donnacona. who was afterwards baptized with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- trous battle on the Plains of Abraham The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by the homes of the lower classes, with the heights toward St. Foy rising on the S. St. Saureur's Church is the only fine building in this quarter. In May. 1535, Jaques Cartier with his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, and then departed across the unknown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 tons' burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- rence. Having passed the dark Saguenay cliffs and the vine-laden shores of the Isle of Orleans, he entered a broad basin where “a mighty promontory, rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majestv of solitude, breathing the stern poetry of the wilderness, rose the cliffs now rich with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalin, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- ism, and a cluster of wigwanis held the site of the rock-built city of Quebec. Its name was Stadacons, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona." It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier's Norman sailors first suw the promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted "Quel bec!" ("What a beak!") which by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the place in loving memory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear a magnified resemblance. But the more likely origin of the name is from the Indian word kebec, signifying a strait, and applied to the comparative narrowing of the river above the Basin. It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the name that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk in the 15th century, bears the title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and was the vic- tor at Crevant and Compeigne, and the conqueror of Joan of Arc, but was impeached Donna ey shouted Cartier QUEBEC. Route 68. 273 and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeare, King Heury VI , Part II., Act IV., Scene 1) for losing the English provinces in France after 34 arduous campaigns. When Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared winter-quarters near the St. Charles River. Soon after his return an intense cold set in, and nearly every man in the fleet was stricken down with the scurvy, of which many died in great suffering. In the springtime, Curtier planted the cross and fleur-de-lis on the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indians were soon afterwards received into the Catholic Church, with much pomp and ceremony, and died within a year, in France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 5 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, but the Indians were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after- wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on the same site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. In the year 1608 the city of Quebec was founded by the noble Cham plain,I who erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan monks arriveJ in 1015, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 102$ Sir David Kirke vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in ]•'''..'-' he was more suc- cessful, and, after a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored to France in 1032; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the Lower Town. Champlain's successor was Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- vout Knight of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed the name of Onontio (" Great Mountain '"). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting the Hurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from the rock of Quebec. After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found that another element was necessary in order to make them permanent and progres- sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom were of the French peasantry; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" Utmoiselles bien choisies''). These cargoes inclnded a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, " mixed goods" (une marekaintise melee). The government provided them with dowries; bachelors were exclnded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by "marks of infamy"; and the French Crown gave bounties forchildren (each inhab- itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 lirres). About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraurdinary festivities on the occasion of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Fclicite, which the Pope had pre- sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relies were borne in solemn pro- cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marquis de Tracy, the IntendantTalon, and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Sali6res, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and In 1690 he bravely repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral's standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight vessels and 8S4 men by shipwreck on the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after; and In 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up stream on the rising tide, and succeeded in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were fired upon by the French outposts; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- 1 Chaniplain was born nf a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became a naval oraccr.aml was afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV. In MM he ex- f'lored the St Lawrence River up to the St Loiii, Rapid■, and afterward (until his death in 835) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-wntera of the Ottawa. He waa a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul it of more im- ErUuce than (he founding of a new empire." He established strong minions among the urona, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 12» E 274 R'mU 68. QUEBEC. ish lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham; and in the short but desperate battle which ensued both the generals were mortally wounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largely composed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Ouienne, Royal Roussilon, Beam, La Same, and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Ventadour — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of Abraham; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swan ton came up the river with a tlcet from England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature (June 28,1746)," Canada en detenda^ were at last verified, but the campaigns had cost the British Government 9400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted In the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. In the winterof 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive city walls; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31,1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with llritish regulars, who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- tinentals N. along Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. from the cliff to the river; hut when its guards saw the great masses of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his officers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and alter that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its specialty. In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated with great pomp. Nine trinmphal arches, in Latin, Byzantine, Romanesque, Classic, and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America; an imposing procession passed under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the name and privileges of a basilica; and at evening tbe city was illuminated, at a cost of $30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga (Le Drapeau de Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- hich floated over I QUEBEC. Route 68, 275 cromble on Lake Champlain (July 8,1758), and is now one of the most esteemed trophies of Quebec. The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the remote West, bravely meeting death in its most lingering and horrible forms at the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, prondly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their euvoy with honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Itoxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. "To thc Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was well nigh celestial. 'In the cli- mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to have no desire but God, uo purpose but for God.' And again: 'To live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' 'If,' adds Le Jeune, 'any one of tlnrsc who die in this country goes to perdition, I think lie will be doubly guilty.'" "Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- sion. These were no stem exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- secuted faith. Hank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, and bade them God-speed. Vet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the prond, the grasping, or the indolent. Obscure toil, solitnde, privation, hardship, and death were to be the missionary's portion "The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their courage fail' A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant and more deadly ventures. The beings, so uear to mortal sympathies, so human, yet so divine, in whom their faith impersonated and dramatized the great principles of Christian faith, —virgins, saints, and angels, —hovered over them, and held be- fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They burned to do, to suffer, and to die; and now, from out a living martyrdom, they turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of the Iroquois. lu lli-Ii", when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: "Do not imagine that the rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his blood. We shall die; we shall be captured, burned, butchered: be it so. Those who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I sec none of our company cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurous, and some of tiiem protest that the fires of the Iroquois arc one of their motives for the journey." ** Tne iron Ilrebeuf, the gentle Gamier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pij.irt, Kogueneau, Du Peron, Ponce t, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which amazei the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result of these missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and the Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century we do uot often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a savage still, but not so often a devil.'' (ParkVAX.) The traveller who wishes to stndy more closely this sublime episode in the New- World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. Francis Park man: "The Jesuits of North America," '-The Pioneers of France in the New World," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine's "Quebec, Past and Present," and "' Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. 276 Moult 69. BEAUPORT. 69. The Environs of Quebec. This district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the tourist. The suburban villages can be visited by pedestrian tours; but in that case it is best to cut off communication with the city, and to sweep around on the great curve which inclndes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish poor accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of dry weather, else the roads will be found very mnddy. But all the world goes about in carriages here, and a caliche and driver can be hired at very low rates (see page 255). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom be relied on, for they gen- erally err on the side ot expansion. "I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little villages in the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- geline.' .... But if wc are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it; and it is always mixed up with something so familiar and homelike that my heart warms to it." (Howells's A Cftanee Acquaintance.) ** The Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, -which is about 1 M. from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel-Yard (sec page 271) and St. Roch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. Roch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- port Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. The asylum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1875, and several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3£-5 M. from Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur Giffard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war of the Conquest of Canada. It is '' in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a few yards wide and k M. long), and the country is bristling with fences In 1664 the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except one next to another "; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should be not less than H arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- acter of the people, who were thus brought close together; from their need of con- centration as a defence against the Indians; and from the subdivision of estates by inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses rising here and there along the wny. So late as 1327 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) had but 5 shops, 3!) artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few acore understam' CHARLESBOURG. Route 69. 279 When the French came to Canada the Huron* were a powerful nation on the shores of Lakes Huron and Simeoe, with 32 villages and 20 - 30,000 inhabitants. They received the Jesuit missionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bristling ridges, whence certain aston- ished Frenchmen, on first seeing them, exclaimed" Quelle* hures! " ('' What boars' heads ! ") and the name of Huron supplanted their proper title of Onenrfat or Wyan- dot. The Iroquois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after many years of most barbarous warfare, succeeded in storming the Christian Huron towns of St. Joseph, St. Tgnace, and St. Louis. The nation was annihilated: a few of its people fled to the far West, and arc now known as the Wyandots; multitndes were made slaves among the Iroquois villages; 10,000 were killed in battle or in the subjugated towns; and the mournful remnant tied to Quebec. Hundreds of them were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a dating Iroquois raid; the survivors encamped under the guns of the fort for 10 years, then moved to St. Foy; and, about the year 1673, this feeble fragmeut of the great Huron nation settled at Ancienne Lorette. It was under the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, had stolen a small sum of money and lied from France into Lombardy. In filth and poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Lorctto, where, at the Holy House, he had an angelic vision. He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- enced another miracle from Loretto; after which he passed to the Huron mission in Canada, where he was delivered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. He erected at Ancienne Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simile of the Holy House- at Lo- retto*, and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 the Hurons moved to New Lorette, "a wild spot, covered with the primitive forest, and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. Charles foams, white as a snow-drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted boughs of the pine and the fir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy rocks or flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside the torrent, another chapel was built to Onr Lady, and another Huron town sprang up; and here to this day, the tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers of moccasons,the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, they mingle and fade away in the French population around." (Paiikman. ) Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by another road from that on which they went out. Ancienne Lorette may be reached from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles. Ifc days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fishing. Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on afar- viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church (with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- donna over its altars). It is the chef-lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They were 2,500 in number, and were led by their cure*s. Pleasant roads lead from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St. Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- teau Bigot. Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette. It is 4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this lake arc of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. "On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into It, and forming lit- tle bays. The lofty hills which snddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular and diversified, are overlooked by mountains which exalt, beyond them, their more distant summits." (He&iot.) 280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. Chateau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, where the traveller turns to the r. around the church, and rides for 2 M. along a ridge which affords charming views of the city on the r. "It is a lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- way, between pretty country-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, while Quebec shows, to your casual backward glance, like a wondrous painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of the cliff; then the thronging gables and chimneys of St. Koch, and again many spires and convent walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some distance through a narrow wheel-track, half overgrown with foliage. There remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masoury, with a deep cellar, outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilaes. The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are found; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montagnt des Ormes. This land was in the Fiefde la Trinili, which was granted about the year 1640 to M. Denis, of La Rorhelle. The chateau was built for his fendal mansion by the Royal Intendant Talon, Daron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by the last Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French satrap, who stole $2,000,000*from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a bear among the hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chateau by a lovely Algonquin maiden whom he had met in the forest. She remained in this building for a long time, in a luxurious bondoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant; but one night she was assassinated by some unknown person, —either M. Bigot's wife, or her own mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " Chateau Bigot," by J. M. LeMoine, sold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c.; also Ilowells's A Chance Acquaintance. Chap. XII.). Sillery (or St. Colomb) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand Alice and the Cap-Rouge Road (see page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, the road leads across the Plains of Abraham, on which were fought the sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jesus-Maria is a new building of great size and imposing architecture; opposite which is the handsome Gothic school-house which was given to this parish by Bishop Mountain. In the vicinity of Sillery are several fine villas, amid ornamental grounds: Afarch- mont, once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spencer Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Canada," with a park of 80 acres, formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other governors, now the resi- dence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec ($10,000 is voted annually for its maintenance by the Legislature); Woodfield, founded by the Bishop of Sauios; Spencer Grange, where lives J. M. LeMoine, the author and antiquarian; Bardfield, Bishop Mountain's former home; Cataracouy, where the British princes, Albert Edward CAP ROUGE. Route 69, 281 and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, Col. Rhodes's estate; and several others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount Mermon, which was laid out by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood Cemetery, is in this vicin- ity, and is adorned by the graceful chapel of St. Michael. The people of Sillery have recently (1870) erected a monument, sustaining a mar- ble cross, near the place where Father Masse was buried, in 1646, in the ancient Church of St. Michael (which has long since disappeared). The old Jesuit Residence still remains, and is a massive building of stone. The Chevalier Noel Brulart de Sillery, Knight of Malta, and formerly a high offi- cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis, having renounced the world, devoted his vast revenues to religious purposes. Among his endowments was the foundation of a Christian Algonquin village just above Quebec, which the Jesuits named Sillery t in his honor. Here the Abenaquis of Mainc learned the elements of Catholicism, which was afterwards unfolded to them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed them in their grand hunts about Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of Heaven." From the mission-house at Sillery departed Jogues, Brebcuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. "It was the scene of miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- sionary efforts among the Indians. Indeed, few events of the picturesque early His- tory of Quebec left it untouched; and it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild beauty of the spot than for its heroical memories. About a league from the city, where the irregular wall of rock on which Quebec is buiit recedes from the river, and a grassy space stretches between the tide and the foot of the woody st*ep, the old mission and the Indian village once stood; and to this day there yet stands the stalwart frame of the first Jesuit Kesidence, modernized, of course, and turned to secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. All around is a world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample cove,—one of many that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village straggles along the roadside and the river's margin; huge lumber-ships are loading for Europe in the stream; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore; nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming scenes the heart could imagine." Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which passes through Sillery, It is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a timber- trade and a large pottery; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, according to the geologists, was formerly an island, around which the St. Lawrence flowed down the St. Charles valley. Beyond Cap Rouge are sev- eral very interesting villages: St. Augustin, with its venerable church; Deschambault ; and other old French parishes. The mansion of Reddyffe is on the cape, and is. near the site where Jaques Cartier and Roberval passed the winters of 1541 and 1542. On the same point batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In returning from Cap Rouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the I. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy road. The village of St. Foy is 5 M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the N. is the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be seen Ancienne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 3,000 inhabitants, on the Gosford Railway, 4£ M. from St. Foy. Beyond the Church of St. 282 Route 69. POINT LEVI. Foy is the * monumental column, surmounted by a statue of Bellona (pre- sented by Prince Nnpoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of St. John is entered. Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running everv 15 min- utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, with a large and increasing trade, being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and of the Intercolonial and Levis or. Kennebec Railways. On the lofty plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. They are three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masoury and earth, with large casemates and covered ways; and are to be armed with Moncrieff guns of the heaviest calibre. It is said that these forts cost $ 15,000,000,— a palpable exaggeration, — but they have been a very expensive piece of work, and are said to be more nearly like Cherbourg, the best of modern European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of heights. St. Joseph is 2 4 M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in wood and timber. South Quebec is above Point Levi, and is closely con- nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, and is growing rapidly. St. Romuald (or New Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. Quebec. It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. Romuald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated for its paintings (executed in 1868-9 by Lamprech of Munich). In the choir are the Nativity, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ; In the Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight into Egypt, Nazareth, Jesus and the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- sion to his Apotheosis. There are 16 medallions on a gold ground, representing Sts. Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and five of the Latin Church. The altars were designed by Schneider of Munich, and the statues were carved in wood by Rndmiiler of Munich. The * Chaudiero Falls are 4J M. beyond St. Romuald, and over 9 M. from Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- tance through the bordering fields. "The deep green foliage of the woods overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitnde of the place, espe- cially as you emerge snddenly from the forest fastnesses on the scene, pro- ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 70. 283 duce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some visitors even prefer this fall to that of Montmorenci. The Chandiere de- scends from Lake Megan tic, near tiie frontier of Maine, traversing the Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- march, in 1775. The Chandiere Falls ore 3 M. from its confluence with the St. Lawrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about 135 ft., and the waters below are continually in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge of the fall the stream is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the L. shore is the best. "The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage of objects highly- attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is in- stantaneously surprised by the delightful scene." 70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne.—The Cote de Beaupre. The steamer Montmorenci runs from Quebec to St. Anne twice a week. A bet- ter route is that by land, through the mediaeval hamlets of the Cote do Beaupre". Three days should be devoted to the trip, — one to go and one to return, and the other to the Falls of St. Anne and St. Fereol. Gentlemen who understand French will find this district very interesting for the scene of a pedestrian tour. The inns at St. Anne and along the road are of a very humble character, resembling the way- side auberges of Brittany or Normandy; but the people are courteous and well- disposed. Distances.—Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, 7 M. ; Ange Gardien, 10: Chateau ilicher, 15; St. Anne, 22 (St. Joachim, 27; St. Fereol, 30). The Seigniory of the Cote de Beaupre contains several parishes of the N. shore, and is the most mountainous part of the Province It was granted in 1636, and is at present an appanage of the Seminary of Quebec. No rural district N. of Mexico is more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupre Road, with its narrow and ancient farms, its low and massive stone houses, roadside crosses and chapels, and unpro- gressive French population. But few districts arc more beautiful than this, with the broad St. Lawrence on the S., and the garden-like Isle of Orleans; the towers of Quebec on the W., and the sombre ridges of Cape Tourmente and the mountains of St. Anne and St. Fereol in advance. "In the inhabitant of the Cote de Beaupre you find the Norman peasant of the reign of Louis XIV., with his annals, his songs, and his superstitions." (Arre Ferland.) '' Though all the while we had grand views of the adjacent country far up and down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec, in the horizon behind us,—and we never beheld it without new surprise and admiration, —yet, throughout our walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly below the Isie of Orleans, and creates such a breadth of level surface above its waters in that direction, that, looking down the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the St. Law- rence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though we were still about 325 M. from what can be called its mouth." (Thoreao.) Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, see page 276. Beyond the Falls the road passes on over far-viewing and breezy hills, and between the snug estates of the rural farmers with their great barns and exposed cellars (caves). The village of Ange Gardien is guarded at LA BONNE ST. ANNE. RouU 70. 285 discloses itself to the contemplation of the spectator, and delights his eye with varied masses of shining foam, which, snddenly issuing from a deep ravine hollowed out by the waters, glide down the almost perpendicular rock, and form a splendid curtain, which loses itself amid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the sceue which the fall of La Puce exhibits." (Hkriot.) La Bonne St. Anne (otherwise known as St. Anne du Nord and St. Anne de Beaupr^) is 7 M. beyond Chateau Richer, and is built on a level site just above the intervales. It lias about 1,200 inhabitants, and is sup- ported by the thousands of pilgrims who frequent its shrine, and by sup- plying brick to the Quebec market. Immense numbers of wild fowl (especially pigeons) are killed here every year. There are numerous small inns in the narrow street, all of which arc crowded during the season of pilgrimage. On the E. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a massive and beautiful structure of gray stone, in classic architecture; 60,000 pilgrims visited the shrine in 1882. The old building of the * Church. of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relies of St. Anne are guarded in a crystal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over the richly adorned high altar is a * picture of St Anne, by the famous French artist, Le Brun (presented by Viceroy Tracy); and the side altars have paintings (given by Bishop Laval) by the Franciscan monk Lefran- fois (who died in 1685). There are numerous rnde ex~voto paintings, rep- resenting marvellous deliverances of ships in peril, through the aid of St. Anne; and along the cornices and in the sacristy are great sheaves of crutches, left here by cripples and invalids who claimed to have been healed by the intercession of the saint. Within the church is the tomb of Philippe Re"ne* de Portneuf, priest of St. Joachim, who was slain, with several of his people, while defending his parish against the British troops (1759). "Above all, do not fall to make your pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Anne Here, when Ailleboutwasgovernor, he began with bis own hands the pious work, and a habitant of Beauprg, Louis Guhnont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came grin- ning with pain to lay three stones in the foundation, in honor probably of St. Anne, St. Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly he was cured. It was but the beginning of a long course of miracles continued more than two centuries, and continuing still. Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- came a distinguishing feature of Canadian Catholicity, till at the present day at least thirteen parishes bear her name Sometimes the whole shore was cov- ered with the wigwams of Indian converts who had paddled their birch canoes from the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them would crawl on their knees from the shore to the altar. And, in our own day,every summer a far greater concourse of pilgrims, not in paint and leathers, but in cloth and millinery, and not in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and their vows to the ' Bonne St. Anue.'" (Parkman.) According to the traditions of the Roman Church, St. Anne was the mother of the Blessed Virgin, and after her body had reposed for some years in the cathedral at Jerusalem, it was sent by St. James to St. I.azare, first bishop of Marseilles. He, in turn, sent it to St. Auspice, bishop of Apt, who placed it in a subterranean chapel to guard it from profanation in the approaching heathen iuroads. Barbarian hordes afterwards swept over Apt and obliterated the church. 700 years later, 286 Route 70. THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. Charlemagne visited the town, and while attending service in the cathedral, sereral marvellous incident» took place, aud the forgotten remains of St. Anne were recov- ered from the grotto, whence a perpetual light was seen and a delicious fragrance emanated. Kver since that day the relies of the saint hare been highly venerated in France- The colonists who founded Canada brought with them this special de- votion, and crecu«l numerous churches in her honor, the chief of which was St. Anne de Beaupre, which was founded in Ioo8 by Got. d'Aillebout on the estate pre- sented by Ktienoe Iy»hart. In 16C# the cathedral-chapter of Carcasson sent to this new shrine a relic of St. Anne (a bone of the hand), together with a lamp and a reliquary of silver, and some fine poiniings. The legend holds that a liLtle child was thrive favored with heavenly visions, on the site of the church ; and that, on her third appearanre, the Virgin commanded the little one to tell the people that tin*y should build a church un that spot. The completion of the building was sig- nalized by a rcuiarkaMe miracle. The vessels ascending the St. Lawrence during the French domination, always fired off a saluting broadside when passing this point, in recognition of their delivery from the perils of the sea. Bishop Laval made St A nne's Day a feast of obligation; and rich ex-voto gifts were placed in the church by the In tendant Talon, the Marquis de Tracy, and 31. d'lbervillc,'* theCidof New France." For over two centuries the pilgrimages have been almost incessant, and hundreds of miraculous cures have been attributed to La Bonne St. Anne. Be- tween June and October, 1874, over 20,000 pilgrims visited the church, some of whom came from France and some from the United States. An extract from a Lower- Canada newspaper of October, 1S74, describes one of the latest of these curious phenomena, the curing of a woman who had been bedridden for 4 years: ''She was placed in the Church of St. Anne, on a portable bed, at 6 o'clock on Wednesday morning. After low mass she was made to venerate the relies of St Anne- A grand mass was chanted a few minutes afterwards. Toward the middle of the divine office the patient moved a little. After the elevation she sat up. At the termina- tion of the mass she got up and walked and made the circuit of the church." The Cote de Beaupre and the site of St. Anne were granted by the Compagnie des Cents Associes, in 1636, to the Sieur Cheflault de la Regnardiere, who, however, made but little progress in settling this broad domain, and finally sold it to Bishop Laval. In 1661, after the fall of Montreal, this district was ravaged by the merciless Iroquois, and in 1682 St. Anne was gnrrisoned by three companies of French regu- lars. On the 23d of August, 1759, St. Anne was attacked by 300 Highlanders and Light Infantry and a company of Rangers, under command of Capt. Montgomery. The place was defended by 200 villagers and Indians, who kept up so hot a fire from the shelter of the houses that the assailants were forced to halt and wait until a flanking movement had been made by the Hangers. Many of the Canadians were slain during their retreat, and all who fell into the bands of the British were put to death. The victors then burnt the village, saving only the ancient church, in which they made their quarters. A tradition of the country says that they set fire to the church three times, but it was delivered by St. Anne. The following day they advanced on Chateau Richer and Ange Gardien, burning every house and barn, and cutting down the fruit trees and young grain. They were incessantly annoyed by tho rifles of the countrymen, and gave uo quarter to their prisoners. The * Falls of St. Anne arc visited by passing out from St. Anne on the road to St. Joachim, as far as the inn. '' like an auberge of Brittany," at the crossing of the St. Anne River. Thence the way leads up the river- bank through dark glens for 3-4 M., and the visitor is conducted by a guide. In descending from the plateau to the plain below, the river forms seven cascades in a distance of about a league, some of which are of rare beauty, and have been preferred even to the Trenton Falls, in New York. Tho lower fall is 130 ft. high. "A magnificent spectacle burst upon our sight. A rapid stream, breaking its way through tho dark woods, and from pool to pool among masses of jagged rock, snd- denly cleaves for itself a narrow chasm, over which you may spring if you have an iron nerve, and then falls, broken into a thousand fantastic forms of spray along the 288 Route 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. had just marched down the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Famine. They were engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp skirmish before the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiers fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the eiiurch. The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Bishop Laval, who founded here a rural seminary in which the >outh of the peasantry were instructed. They were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Ohurch, and were in- structed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cotede Beaupre, which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. "Above the vast meadows of the parish of St. Joachim, that here border the St. Laurence, there rises like an island a low fiat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured bead of a monk. It was here that La vol planted Ins school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- tant, towers the mountain promoutory of Cape Tounuente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from the top, waint-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below; or mount the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beauprl, the shores of Orleans bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray clond; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- itnde where it holds its savage revels Game on the river; trout in lakes, brooks, and pools; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains; a thou- sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here wait the stndent emancipated from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, as different from the restless population of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village." (Park- ham.) 7L The Isle of 0rleans. Steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mout- morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from West Point to St. Pierre, in 6 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M.; and St Francois, 20 M The S. shore road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M.; St. Laurent, 7£; St. John, 13J ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. Pierre. The Isle of Orleans is about 3 4 M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square miles (47,923 acres) of hind, being 20 M. long and 54 M. wide. The beau- tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of the Lower Province, and justify its title of "the Garden of Canada." The Island was called Minigo by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes in case of invasion. In 1535 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resideut Indians and feasted with fish, honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds: "We found there great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world; and for that we named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the sou of Francis I. of France. The popular name was VIsle rJes Surciern (Wizards' Island), either on account of the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to demons and wizards the dancing fires which Here carried by the Indians in visiting their fisii- —»*» during the night-tides. ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. Route 71. 289 The Island was granted in 1620 to the Sieur deCaen by the Duke de MontmorencI, Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was formed into the Earldom of St. Laurent, and was conferred on M. Berth*lot, who assumed the title of the Count of St. Lawrence. In 1651 the N. part was occupied by 600 Christian Ilurous, who had taken ntfuge under the walls of Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1656 the Iroquois demanded that they should come and dwell in their country, and upon their refusal fell upon the Huroiis with a force of 300 warriors, devastated the island, and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, while the Tribe of the Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in 1661, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, IX- Lauzon, Seneschal of New France, and all his guards were killed, preferring to die lighting than to surrender and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay whs carried away and raised in tri- umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). For nearly a century the Islu enjoyed peace and prosPerity, until it had 2,000 in- habitants with 5,0^0 cattle and rich ami productive farms. Then came the advance of Wolfe's fleet; the inhabitants all lied to Charlesbourg; the unavailing French troops and artillery left these shores; Wolfe's troops landfd at St. Laurent, and erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S E- point; and soon afterward the Brit- ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house on the Isle, and destroy ing the orchards. The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and titles are vested in ancient French families of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- versified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevo x** sketch (of 1720): "We took a stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease." The agri- cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressive ideas of the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena?. The Isle and the adjacent shore of Beaupre have been called the nursery of Canada, so many have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts of the Provinces. — St- Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.)i and iS reached by ferry-steamers, which also run to Beaulieu. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by Pere Lale- mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron Renfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- row and contracted cells, whose design has been long forgotten. The -woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 13 s QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 72. 291 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River. —The North Shore of the St. Lawrence. The St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company has several first-class steamers ply- ing on the lower reaches of the river. The time-table below is that of 1874; but if any changes have been made, they may be seen in the Quebec uewspapers,or at the ticket-office, opposite the St. Louis Hotel. At 7 a.m., on Tuesday and Friday. the Saguenay leaves Quebec for St. Paul's Bay, Les fcbnulements, Murray Bay, iliviire du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousac, Ha Ha Bay, and Chieoutimi; reaching Quebec again on Thursday and Monday mornings. On Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday the Union or the St. Lawrence leaves Quebec at 7 A.m., for Murray Bay, Riviijre du Loup, Tadousac, and Ha Ha Bay; reaching Quebec the second morning after. On Saturday the St. Lawrence lo.ives Quebec, at nonn, for Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, nnd Riniouski; reaching Quebec again on Tuesday morning. Distances. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M.; St. John (Orleans), 17; Isle Ma- dame, 23; Ciiuc Tourmente, 28; St. Francois Xavier, 45; St. Paul's Bay, 55; Lea Eboulements.fitt; Murray Bay, 82; Kiviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118); Tadousac, 134 (Chieoutimi, 235) The S. shore is described in Route 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of Orleans in Route 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, inclnding a fascinating retrospect of the lofty fortress. "Behind us lay the city. with its tinned roofs glittering in the morning sunshine, and its citadel-rock towering over the river; on the southern shore, Point Levi, picturesquely climbing the steep hank, embowered in dark trees; then the wooded bluffs with their long levels of farm-land behind them, and the scattered cottages of the habitants, while northward the shore rose with a gradual, undulating sweep, glittering, far inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages, until it reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentiau Mts. in the N. E .. . . The sky, the air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway; Quebec and the surrounding villages suggested Normandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian, rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English orcupancy. The age, the order, the apparent stability and immobility of society, as illustrated by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This part of America is but 70 or 80 years older than New England, yet there seems to be a difference of 500 years." (Bayard Taylor.) After running for 17 M. between the populous shores and bright villages of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer turns to the N. E., when off St. John, and goes toward Cape Tourmente, passing between Isle Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is St. Joachim. As the N. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupre- may be obtained, under the frowning St. Anne Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape Rouge and Cape Gribaune^ over 2,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are of granite, and are partially wooded. 3 M. N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Rouge. A few miles to the E. is the Sault au Cochon, under the crest of a mountain 2,370 ft. high. 292 Route 7t. ST. PAUL'S BAY. Boucher asserted, In 1663, that the shore between Cape Tourmente and Tadousac was uninhabitable, '' being too lofty, and all rocky and escarped." But the French Canadians, hardy and tireless, and loving the St. Lawrence more than the Normans love the Seine, have founded numerous hamlets on the rocks of this iron shore. The coast between St. Joachim and St. Francois Xavier is as yet unoccupied. "We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,000 to 1,500 ft. in height, wild and dark with lowering clonds, gray with rain, or touched with a golden transparency by the sunshine, — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their beauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the Lower St. Lawrence for trie first time were surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (Bayard Taylor.) Beypnd Abattis and the high cliffs of Cape Mnillard the steamer passes the populous village of St. Francois Xavier, extending up the valley of the Bouchard River. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is passed (see page 254). Beyond Cape Labaie the steamer lies to off St. Paul's Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. St. PauPs Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, and the village is clustered about the church and convent near the Gouffre River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish offers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist.'' The wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away all the bridges which have been erected by the people. Passengers who wish to land at this point are transferred from the steamer to a large sail- boat. The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Moulin Rivers show distant ranges of picturesque blue mountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 It is claimed that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and passed into the volcanic state, emitting columns of flame through several days. The peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of the Gouffre has been likened to the Vale of Clwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a fair road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Tntendant Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of the valley, 9 M. from St. Paul's Bay, is St. Urbain, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. By this route the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sague- nay (see page 300). St. Placide (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 400 inhabitants. "In all the miles of country I had passed over, I had seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the Vale of Baie St- Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and covered from end to end with little hamlets, and several churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till they resembled a faint blue wave in the horizon." (Ballantyke.) "Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from the crest of Cap au Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of Cap au Corbeau; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay; to comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet: the sinuous course of the Maree and of the serpentine Goutfre; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- tures; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap a la Rey, the bottom of the bay; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavian?" (Trodelle.) The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its ISLE AUX COUDRES. Route 72. 293 earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In October, 1870, it felt such a severe shock that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 1750 the village was destroyed by Gorham's New-England Rangers, after the inhabitants had defended It for two hours. "Above the Gulph I have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paid, where the Hab- itations begin on the North Ride; and there are some Woods of Pine-Trees, which are much valued; Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the Seminary of Quebec arc Lords of this Bay. .Six Leagues higher, there is a very high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 Leagues to the West; It is called (Jape Tourmtnte, probably because he that gave it this Name, suffered here by a Gust of Wind.': (Charlevoix.) The \V. promontory of St. Paul's Bay is Cape Labaie; that on the E., opposite the Isle aux Condres, is Cape Corb'iiu. "This cape has something of the majestic and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of the immense tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian deserts by the vanity of some puny mortal. A clond of birds, children of storm, wheel continually about its fir- crowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intoue the funeral of some dying man.'' Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Condres is the whirlpool called Le Govffre, where the water snddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Condres to Cor- bean in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouffre began to fill with sand schooners which were caught in these eddies described a series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; but its navigation is now safe and easy. The Isle aux Condres is 54 M. long and 2£ M. wide, and is a charm- ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 800 inhabitants, en- gaged in farming, and more purely mediaeval French than any other people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this point and the Riviere Ouelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Taylor says: "The Isle aux Condres is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald setting of the river." Off the Isle aux Condres, and between that point and Riviere Onclle, great num- bers of white whales are caught, in fish-pounds made for the purpose. These fish (often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, when they migrate to the Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are from 14 to 22 ft. in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much used for lighthouse purposes, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made from their skins. When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1535, under the direction of the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Gasp. , he landed on this island, and, marvelling at the numerous hazel-trees upon the hills, named it Uhle aux Condres (Hazel-tree Island). This point he made the division between the country of Saguenay and that of Canada. "In 1663 an Earthquake rooted up a Mountain, and threw it upon the Isle of Condres, which was made one half larger than before, and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to approach." The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great British fleets were anchored off the shores, but several boats' crews were driven from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the isle, carrying a flag 294 Route 7t. MURRAY BAY. which they were about to raise on the chief eminence before the fleet; but they were cut off by a small party of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- miral Durell first reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- sels bearing 1,800 barrels of powder. The steamer runs S. E. for several miles in the narrow channel between the Isle aux Condres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les Eboulements, a farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. "High on the crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on landing at the Eboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charming on the river, and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are grouped snugly about the tall Notre Dame Church, above which the dark peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. In the vicinity of Lea Eboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides of 1663, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. The St. Lawrence ran " white as milk," as far down as Tadousac; ranges of hills were thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains; earthquakes shat- tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were drunk; vast Assures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air; roarings and mysterious voices sounded on every side; and the confessionals of all the churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. The steamer now rounds the huge mass of Mt. Eboulements, passing the rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. slope is seen the large village of St. Irenie, where 900 French people preserve their ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the steamer rounds in at Murray Bay. Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N. Shore, and has fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also one of the best fishing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with success in the waters of the beautiful Murray River, or the Gravel and Petit Lakes. The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Piqitet near which are the hotels, frequented in summer by many Quebec families, who enjoy the beautiful scenery of the adjacent country. There are also sum- mer cottages about the base of Cap a I' Aif!le. The tourists occupy Point a Pique with their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls. The French town is at the bridge over the Murray River, and is clustered about the great church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. It has 3,000 inhabitants. "Of all the picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take the waters, none will interest the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. lie will not find here the beau- tiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or Kiniouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during the dog-days; here is savage and unconquered nature, and view-points jet more majes- tic than those of the coasts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice; impenetrable gorges in the projections of the rocks; peaks which lose themselves In the clonds and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries; where the RIVlfeRE DU LOUP. Route 72. 295 caribou browses in September; where the solitary crow and the royal eagle make their nests in May; in short, alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, a Byronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, far from the ways of civ- ilized men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country in a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. According to some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of these austere beauties, one must be at tho privileged epoch of life. If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy solitndes of the shores, t!ie grottos, the great forests of Point 4 Pique or Cap a l'Aiglc, or to capture by hundreds the frisking trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you must have a good eye, a well-norved arm, and a supple leg" (LeMoinr.) Thi.« district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at the conquest of Canada. It was then grunted to the Scottish officers, Major Nairn and Malcom Fraser, who soon promoted its settlement. It was explored in June, 1608, by Olrttnplain, who named it Malle Baie, on account of " the tide which runs there marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, tho hay is greatly moved." It is still generally known as Malbaie, though tho English use the name Murray Bay, given in honor of the general who granted it to the Scots. The Scotch families brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A depot for American prisoners-of-war was established here in 1776. near the Nairn manor-house, and the barracks were built by the captives themselves. The great French settlement of St. Aspies, with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 M. W. of Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown Lands. A rugged road follows the N. shore from Murray Bay to the Saguenay River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidele (9 M. out; 1,000 inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port au Persil, the hamlets of Black River, Port aux Quilles, St. Simeon, and Calllere, back of which are mountains where many moose and caribou are found. Still farther E. is Baie des ilochcrs, on an island-stndded bay. The steamer now sh-etches out across the river in a diagonal course of 30 M-, the direction being about N. E. The river is about 20 M. wide, and tho steamer soon comes in sight of the Kamouraska Islands (see page 252), on the 1., and then passes between Hare Island (1.) and the Pil- grims. The vessel soon reaches the long pier at Point a BeauHeut 3 M. from Riviere du Loup. Riviere du Loup (*La Rochetle House; and several large summer boarding-houses) is a prosperous village of 4,500 inhabitants, occupying a fine position on a hillside near the mouth of the river. There are some pretty villas in the vicinity, and tho great churcli in the centre of the town is a prominent landmark for miles. About 3 M. up the river are the famous * Riviere-du-Lovp Falls, near the new and massive bridge of the Intercolonial Railway. The stream here plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. Tho views of the river and its islands and shipping, from the streets of the village, are broad and beautiful; and many summer visitors pass their vacations here, finding comfortable accommodations in the boarding-houses. The Temiscouata road runs S. K- from this point into New Brunswick, cross- ing numerous trout-streams and leading through a desolate region of hills. Its first point of interest is the long Temiscouata Lake (see page 68). Riviere du Loup will soon be one of the chief rail way-centres of Canada. It has been the E. terminus of tho Grand Trunk line for years. The Intercolonial is now 296 Route 72. CACOUNA. well and surely completed from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- Brunswick Railway is being pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 49) This domain was granted by the Compagnie des Tndes Occidentals to the Sieur de la Chesnove in 1673. It is Kftid that its name is derived from the fact that in former vearVgreat droves of reals (lovps-rrtarins) frequented the shoals at the mouth of the river, making a remarkable uproar at night. A persistent attempt has been made to call this town Fraservitt*, in honor of the Fnuters, who are its feigniors. The numerous Prasera of this Proviso* met at Quebec in 186b to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organisation, and to namo Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Frafer, and is the Hon. John Fran-r de Berry, " 58th descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemagne and his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century" The solemn Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries (/raises, in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the Clan Fraser traces its name and descent. Cacouna is 6 M. from Riviere du Loup, and is the chief summer resort of Canada. The * St. Lawrence flail is the most fashionable hotel, nnd accommodates 600 guests, at S 2.50-3 a day. The Mansion House charges S 1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits Cacouna from Riviere du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivers, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant le ciel corrosif de New-York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S,,— sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of famed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many trout are found. The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- em scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during rainy weather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. high, which is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name was given by the Indians, in allusion to its form, and signifies "the tur- tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- odist, and Human Catholic churches. 4£ M. distant is the populous parish of St. Arsene, and 8 M. S. is St. Modeste. From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots (1.) and Red IslandUtee page 252). The Sag- mkV, see Route 73. IslamLJsee page THE SAGUENAY RIVER. Route 73. 297 73. The Saguenay River. Steamers leave Quebec for Chicoutimi, the farthest port on the Saguenay, on Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A H. (see page 291); and for Ha Ha Bay on Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfall, and start on the re- turn from Chicouthni the next morning. Distances- — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M.; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite, 15; St. Louis Islets, 19; Riviere aux Canards, 23; Little Saguenay River, 27; St. John's Bay, 32; Eternity Bay, 41; Trinity Bay, 4S; Cape Rouge, 56; Cape East, 63; Cape West, 65; ftt. Alphonsc, 72; St. Fulgeuce, 1*5; Chicoutimi, 100. This itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on the river. There is no other table of distances accessible. Imray's Sailing Direc- tions (precise authority) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. The ** Saguenay River is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2£ M. wide, and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, -which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. Along their slopes are the deep lines of glacial striations, telling of the passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of their forests by a great fire, in 1810, but there are large numbers of hemlock and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- ern World. "The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mountain wilderness. .... No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water; firs of gloomy green are rooted in their crev- ices and fringe their summits; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air, which brings out every object with a crystalline distinctness, even contracts the di- mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs. and apparently belittles the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappointment. Still, it exercises a fascination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fn--.li. novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at hist, as in .St. Peter's or at Niagara, learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur of the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- ing breadth — from £ M to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of the grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fragments of chaus overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their scanty drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water beneath us was black as night, with a pitchy glaze on its surface; and the only life in all the savage solitnde was, now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves The river is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 13* 298 HouU73. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. coast The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the settlements at Ha I la Bay and L'Anse a l'Eau (except that the houses are white in- stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinavian skip- pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, 1 learn, settle here." (Bayard Taylor.) '' From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise steeply from the water's edgw. These hills, though Fteep, ore generally roughly rounded in chape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by itself, would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity; but after sailing for 70 miles downwards, passing rocky hill after rocky hill, risingone beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you; .... after vainly longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — you will begin to compare the Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman river, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living things have ever been there." (White ) "Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its blnck waters. Anything which recalls the life and smile of nature is not in unison with the huge naked cliffs, raw, cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in the deadly, rugged aspect; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. It is with a sense of relief that the tourist emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, where life or sound seems never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest ravines look coscy and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand apparently in spite of itself; while so utter is the solitnde, so dreary and monoto- nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river; and a pienic on the banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." (London Times.) On Sept. 1,1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Carticr, with three vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the Saguenay, you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was visited by Robcrvat in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1C03 Tadou- sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes in order to Eell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is Seen 5 M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the Montaignais. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors. where several grave and eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, 'I of which dwelt along the river, and the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hndson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- cation of the original Indian word Saggishf^kuss) which means "a river whose banks arc precipitous." In 1671 the heroic and self-abnegating Jesuit, Pcre de Crepieul, founded the mis- sion at Tadousac, wriert* he remained for 2fi jears, passing the winters in tho wretched huts of the savages. Before this time (in 1661) the Fathers Druillettes and TADOUSAC. Route 73. 299 Dablon had ascended the river to Lake St. John and there had baptized many In- dians, and founded the mission of St. Francois Xavicr. The Montaiguais are still in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prayer-book and breviary, in which they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to Hndson's Bay by way of the great lakes of St- John and Mistassini. The country about the Upper Saguenay was then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it was forgotten. About. 6O years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by efficient officers and this remote region is now bejng occupied by French-Canadian hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. Tadousac is a small village, prettily situated on a semicircular terrace surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view inclndes the white villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tadousac Hotel ($2.50 a day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hndson's Bay Company are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The summer cottages are near the shore, and arc cheerful little buildings. The Earl of Oufferin, late Governor-General of Canada, erected a handsome house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in the Indian word Tadousac, which means knobs or mamelons. "Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround the mouth of the Sagueuay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the edge of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height So perched, these edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand which sweeps around at their feet. On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay; in front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around arc mountains covered with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious plare" (TacHE.) 4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Jlloidin d Bande, where are large beds of white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- ble." Poinle Rouge, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- tensely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- grounds of Milk- V aches, the tmut-stream of the Laval River, and the Hndson's Bay post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrave" and Chauvin, to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died and the rest tied into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district,was given to the Sieur De- maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Capc Cor- morant. Three years later the place was captured by the Iroquois, and the garrison was massacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, wer« chased in here by Sir William Phlpps's New-England fleet. They formed bat- teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels 300 Route 73. CHICOUTIMI. up through the swift currents, and the French fleet was pared. The trading-post and mission were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and says: "The greatest Part of our Geographers have here placed a Town, but where there never was but one French house, and some huts of Savages who came there in the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went away; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the French resorted thither as soon as the Navigation was free both from France and Canada; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- lowed the last, to com pleat their Instructions." The steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends the river by night, when, if the sky is unclonded, there are beautiful effects of star- light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the sake of continuity. Chicoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicoutimi County, and has 1.935 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Saguenay, and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian vessels. The trade amounts to $ 500,000 a year, and is under the control of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, and is known as 'the King of the Saguenay." The powerful house of Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their property in mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near by are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the town the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high hill; and the white ribbon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi River here falls 40-50 ft., just before entering the Saguenay. This stream affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great numbers of fish re- sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about the falls and theadjacent rapids (permission must be obtained,and is often granted in courtesy to strangers). The ancient Jesuit chapel and the Hndson's Bay Company's post were situated near the confluence of the two rivers, and within the chapel (which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cocquart, the last of the Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, and many Indians were converted. St. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of Chicoutimi, and is reached by a good road, which passes through Jon- quiere, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Rapids of Torres Rompues, on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi. 302 Route7S. HA HA BAY. amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean Latin nation" which is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. John country. Large quantities of lumber arc loaded here upon British and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is carried on in the autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries to Quebec, — the latter being packed in coftin-suaped boxes and sold for 30 - 40 cents a bushel. The steamer touches at St. Alpkonse (Bagutville), a small French village, with a church and a comfortable hotel. Calashes run from the pier to St. AUxis (Grande Baie), 3 AI. off, around the bay, crossing the Riviere a Mars, famous for its salmon-lisheries (rights may easily be bought or leased). 3 M. from the bay, near the falls of Mars Kiver, are the three Gravel Lakes, famous for immense and delicious red trout. The mail-road is prolonged from St. Alexis, through the uninhabited wilderness of the Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. l'uul's Bay (sec page 292). "The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone warm on what in a friendlier climate would have heen a very lovely landscape. The bay was an irregular oval, with shores that rose in bold out not lofty heights on one side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two villages clinging about the road that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and along its waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with metallic tints of orange and scarlet." iHowells.) 21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac d la Beile Truitc, and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ha Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high The blue peaks of the St. Margaret Mis. are about 30 M. from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. John to Hndson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutinii (12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cape East is seen on the 1., throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting off the retrospective view. Rugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both sides. "The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a curve, and it hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but to open drearier solitndes to the eye.'' Just before reaching Cape Rouge (1. bank) the ravine of Descente des Fernmes opens to the N., deriving its singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to tiia river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. ETERNITY BAY. RouU73. 303 On the r. bank is * Le Tableau, a cliff 900 ft. high, whose riverward face contains a broad sheet of dark limestone, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. Still farther down (r. bank) is "* Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 foet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic cliffs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, for the N. cape was named La TrinitS by the Jesuits on account of its union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the correct names in the ensuing quotations.) "The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, — Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity,—enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high, rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- tle bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed by any river- scene in the world." (N'uitk.) "Snddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams from space to space, till, 1,500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and frowns with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, till it wins the clond-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of Cape Trinity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads,a black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to crest it Is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful: 304 RouU73. ETERNITY BAY. bo that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- suaged by the serene grandeur of this." (How ells's A Chance Acquaintance.) "These awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soaring Into the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretching inland, and covered with the dark primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a subtimer picture of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-colored eyenitic granite, rihbed with vertical streaks of black. hung for a moment directly over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of oue another. Westward, the wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark forests in the bed of the valley." (Bayard Taylor.) "The wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can be Imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charac- ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the capes, the land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, at least seems so in comparison with the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Kternity on this side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it betrays in allowing anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth deformity of strength. Cape Trinity certainly shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from Its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous cliff of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it,and seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream which Hows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained and discolored by little waterfalls in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, and all other of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- tnde here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitnde like this." (London Times.) When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, one of her heavy 6ompounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. "For the space of half a minute or so after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then,as if the report and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitnde from hill to hill, till ail the distant mountains seemed to roar and groau at the intrusion." St. John's Bay (r. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow enough to afford an anchorage for shipping. It is 2 M. wide and 3 M. long, and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in a narrow valley which appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian hunting-grounds and pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis Isle, a granite rock, £ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitndes of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one of the grandest vi*WfB the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Route 74. 305 vales of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of the Saguenay, de- scending from a. lake far N. of Chicoutimi, and famous for its salmon-fisher- ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 M. by canoes; and flows from :i valuable region of hard-wood trees. There are huts along the strand :it its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- chor here; while far inland arc bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color approaching black; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of Si. Etiennt Bay, afford- ing an anchorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Passe Pierre Isles (r. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite which is the frowning promontory called * Pointe la Boule, a vast granite mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe la Boule to Tadousac, the river flows between escarped clitTs of feldspathic granite, with an appearance resembling stratification dipping to the S. E. Their lofty rounded sumnnts are nearly barren, or at most support a thin fringe of low trees; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a great depth beneath the water. The vessel calls at L"Anse a VEau, the little cove near Tadousac (see page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or near Quebec. 74. Quebec to Montreal — The St. Lawrence River. The river-route is by the steamboats of the Richelieu Company, leaving Quebee at evening. it it GO M. from Quebec to Batiscan, 90 M. to Three Rivers, 135 M. to Sorel, and 180 M. to Montreal. The shortest route by rait between the two cities is the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa ami Occidental Railway, along the North Shore. Stations.—Quebec to Lake St. John Junction, 4 M.; Lorette, 8; Passe Para- dl-;, 14; Ste. Jeanne de Neuvillc, 26; St. Bazile,30; Portneuf, 35; Deschambault, 3't; Lnchevrotiere, 42: Grondines, 45; St. Anne de la Perade, 53; Batiscau, 58; CI lamp lain, 65; Piles Branch Junction, 75; Three Rivers R., 78; Pointe du Lac, SG; Yinnachiche, 93; Louise Vilie, 98; Maskinouge, 102; St. Bartuclemi, 108; St. Outhbert, 111; Berthier, 110; Lanor.iie Junction, 124; l*a Valtrie Road, 12!); L'AssompLion, 133; L'tiptphanic, 137; St. Heuri de Mascouchu, 145; Turrebonue, 149; St. Vincent de Paul, 155; Montreal, 170. Thr Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. Stations- —Quebec (Point Levi) ; Hadlow, 2 M. ; Chandicre Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 15; Black River, 20; Methofs Mills, 28; Lyster, 37; Becancour, 41; Somerset, 49; Stan fold, 55; Arthabaska, 04; Warwick, 71; Danville, 84; Richmond, 96; New Durham, 106; Acton, 118; Upton, 124; Britannia Mills, 130; St. Hyacinthe, 137; Soixante, 144; St. Hilaire, 150; St. Bruno, 157; St. Hubert, 162; St. Lambert, 107; Montreal, 172. "It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, which is a distance of more than 180 M.; for the farm-houses are nevermore than five arpentsapart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted.'' (Kalm, the Swedish traveller, in 1749.) In 1084 La H on tan said that the houses along these shores were never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are aimplc-minded and T THREE RIVERS. Rouie74. 307 has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillons (S. shore) is noted for its brickyards. St. Anne de ta Pcrade (N. shore) has a great church, and is situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, which is here crossed by a bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the busy little port of Butiscan (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; GentUly (S. shore) has 000 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and Champlain (N- shore) has 400 inhabitants. Three Rivers (British American Hotel) is a city of 0,000 inhabitants, midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in I61S, under the name of Trois Rivieros, and played an important part in the early history of Canada. The chief buildings arc the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- weekly and weekly newspapers (2 of which are French). Besides the daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and by the Korth-Shore Railway, and lias buil' a new line up the St. Mau- rice Valley to Grand Riles. There are large iron-works and machine- bhops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended S 200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over S 1,000,000 luis been invested in mills and booms above. The St. Maurice River waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivera, where the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of ike Shawanegan, where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft. between the lofty rocks culled La Grand' Mcre and Le Btmkomme. A few miles above are the Falls of the Grand' Mere. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageitrs or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlocked with those of the Sagueuay. Across the St .Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magd'lwnc; and on the S. shore are llecancunr, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval (Doucett's Landing), the terminus of a brauch of the Grand Trunk Railway. The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- tificial), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rnde huts of the lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and enormous quantities of eels and pike are taken Hum the waters. Near the MONTREAL. Route 75. 309 carriages. The church is a large and stately building, with two conspicu- ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrated Varennes Springs, which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and the other yields 2-3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. Arrangements are being made to establish a first-class summer resort at this point. Above Varennes is BoucherviUe, the birthplace of Chief Justice Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. The low and marshy islands off this shore are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. "We were gliding past Longueuil and Boucherville on the (left), and Pointe aux Trembtes, ' so called from having been originally covered with aspens,' on the (right). I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, bnt because they sounded singularly poetic In my ears. There certainly was no lie in them. They suggested that some simple and perchance heroic human life might have transpired there." (Thoreau. ) Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches her pier at Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the river in front. 75. Montreal / - / I Hotels. — * The Windsor, on Dominion Square, in an elevated and quiet part of the city, not far from the Mount-Royal Park, is undoubtedly one of the most mag- nificent hotels in America. Its architecture is very imposing, and within it has a splendid frescoed rotunda, marble staircases, an immense dining-hall, and hun- dreds of airy and comfortable chambers, with hot and cold water, and all conven- i iences. '' St. Lawrence Hall, 139 St. James St., is a comfortable hotel In the centre of the city, near the post-office and banks. The Albion, 141 McGill St., is frequented by country merchants and commercial men. The American is on St. Joseph St., and has many dealers in horses and cattle among its patrons. The chief French hotels are the Richelieu, a well-kept house on St. Vincent St.; and the Canada, oa St. Gabriel St. Hotel-omnibuses meet all trains and boats. - Restaurants. — Alexander's, 391 Notre Dame St.; Freeman's, 231 St. James ': St.; Compain's, 116 St. Francois Xavier St. j The Bodega, 306 Notre Dame St. j Vic- tor's, 145 St. James St.; Walker's, 372 Notre Dame St. Clubs. —Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall; and St. James, on Dorchester St. i Amusements* — Theatre Royal, 19 Cotte* St. open usually during the sum- mer. Operatic and theatrical entertainments, in winter, at the Academy of Music, Victoria St. Lectures are given at the Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and Victoria Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of the Mechanies' Institute, 204 St. James St. The Victoria Skating Rink, Drummond and Dorchester Sts., is famous for its winter carnivals. Lacrosse, the Canadian I national game, is played at the grounds on Sherbrooke St. West and St. Catherine St. West. Foothall, cricket, golf, bicycling, fox-hunting, racket, lawn tennis, horse- racing, tobogganing, snow-shoeing, curling, all have their devotees and their head- quarters. The Thistle Rink is near the Crystal Palace. Reading-Rooms.—Toung Men's Christian Association, Victoria Square; Merchants' Exchange. 11 St. Sacrament St.; Mechanies' Institute, 204 St. James St.; Institut Canadian, 111 Notre Dame St.; Union Catholique (20,000 vols.), St. Mary's Church- 310 Route75. MONTREAL. Post-Office, on St. James 8t., nearSt. Francois Xavier 8t. Telegraph, central office of the Montreal Telegraph Company, corner of St. Sacrament and St. Francois Xavier Sta. Money. — American and British gold and paper money passes at par, but silver is at a discount. Carriages. — (One-horse.) For 1 -2 persons, for 20 minutes, 25 cents; for \ hr., 40c.; by the hour, 75 c., and 60 c. for each additional hour. For 3-4 per- sons, for 20 minutes, or less, 50 c.; for | hr., 60 c .; by the hour, SI, and 75c. for each additional hour. (Two-horse carriages.) For 1-2 persons, for \ hr., or less, 65 c.; by the hour, $1. For 3-4 persons, for £hr., or less, 75c.; by the hour, S 1.25. Fractions of hours charged pro rata. The tariff by the hour applies to all rural excursions, for which carriages are engaged in the city. The legal tariff is augmented 50 per cent between midnigiit and 4 a. m. Trunks and boxes, 10 c. each. Horse-cars run across tho city on Craig, Bluury, and St. Catherine Sts.; also on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. to St. Jean Baptiste. Kail ways. —To Boston by way of St Albans, Concord, and Lowell, In 334 M.; or by way of Fitchburg, in 344 M.; or by the new route, the Southeastern Railway. To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 365 M. (by Lake Champlain, 405 M.); to Que- bec, 172 M. (in 7 hrs); to Plattaburg, 63 M.; to Rouse's Point, 50 M.; to Toronto, 333 M. (14-15 hrs.); to Detroit (861 M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.); to Ottawa, 164 M. Stages run out from Montreal in all directions, daily. To St. Cesaire, Marieville, and Chambly; St. Eustache, St. August in, St. Scholastique, St. Columban, and St. Canut; New Glasgow, Kilkenny, St. Jerome, Stanbridge.St. Lin, St. Hippolyte, St Agathe des Moots, St. Adele, St. Janvier, St. Therese de Blainville, St. Sophie; St. Vincent de Paul,Mascouche, Terrebonne, and St. Sauveur; Pointeaux Trembles, Sault au Recollet, and St. Martin. Steamships. — The first-class ocean steamships of the Allan Line and the Do- minion Line leave Montreal 2-3 times weekly during the season of navigation, for Liverpool and Glasgow. The Beaver, Donaldson, Temperley, Ross, Thomson, and Great Western Lines also run weekly and fortnightly steamships between Montreal: and Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Bristol, and Newcastle-on-Tyne; the White Cross Line, to Antwerp; the Canadian and Brazilian, to the West Indies and Brazil; and the Montreal and Acadian, to St. John's, Newfoundland. The Richelieu Line runs ( daily steamers to the lower river-ports and Quebec. The morning and evening trains / to Lachlne connect with the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa Kiver. The vessels of the Canadian Navigation Company ascend the St. Lawrence and Lake On- tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. flelene and Ottawa make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Qulote. The Quebec S. S. Co. despatches a weekly steamer from Montreal to Purer, Charlottetown, and Pictou. The Chambly runs semi-weekly from Montreal to Vercheres, Contrecosur, Sorel, St. Onrs, St. Denis, St. Antoine, St. Charles, St. Marc, St. Hitaire, Belccil, St* i Matthias, and Chambly (SO M.). The Three Rivers runs semi-weekly to Vercheres, Sorel, Masklnonge*, Riviere du Loup en haut, Yamachiche, Port St. Francis, Champlain, and Three Rivers. The Berthier runs semi-weekly to Repentigny, St. Sulplce, Laval trie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrebonne runs dally to Bou- cherville, Varennes, Bout de l'Isle, Lachenaie, L'Assomption, and Terrebonne (24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Lam-: bert, and Longueull. „ ( Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is lA M. wide opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The commercial b uildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- ( MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 tial architecture, and the number of fine public buildings is very large. Three fourths of the population are Catholies, most of whom are French, and the bright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by Frenchmen. Although Montreal is 9SS SI. from the sea, it is the port which receives the greater part of the importations to Canada; and its manufacturing interests are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and steamboat communication which centre here, have made it the commercial emporinm of the North; and new lines of traffic and internal railways are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Lawrence counties to this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitical See of the Anglican Church in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman-Catholic diocese. The water- supply, street-lamps, paving, and tire department are similar to those of American cities of the first rank. The population of Montreal was 140,747, at the census of 1881, and there are 60,000 more in the adjacent villages on the island. Of the citi- zens, 80,000 are French, 30,000 Irish, and 105,000 Roman Catholies. The valuation of real estate is about 805,000,000; its imports in 1880, $37,103,869; and its exports, $ 30,224,904. In the same year 710 vessels arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue was $ 5,232,789. The city has 19 banks, 74 churches, and more than 30 newspapers and magazines (in English and French). There are numerous charitable and benevolent organizations, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- man, and New-England residents. The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill and St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which per- tains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert Buildings, devoted to commerce. Passing to the N. E. along St. James St., the visitor sees many fine stores, and the attractive buildings of * Molsonjs Bank (of Ohio stone and Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, and other symmetrical and solidly constructed edifices. This street is the Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S- E. by the stately Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to St. Paul St., the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal (beyond St. Francois Xavier St, the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place d'Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front of the * Church of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches on the conti- nent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255} ft. long and 144 J ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass 3l£ Rov&rs.- MONTREAL. '"'; 64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is brilliantly and theatrically decorated. There are two towers on the front, each. 220 ft. high, and, like the church, in the simplest form of mediaeval Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime of bells, and in the other hangs "Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 26 c. to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of the city and its environs (especially of the city and river, the Victoria Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longuenil, and St. Lambert, the Lachine Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of St. Sulpice, on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824-9, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. The semi- nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected with its • various works. "I soon found my way to the Church of Notre Dame. I saw that it was of great size and signified something. .... Coming from the hurrahing mob and the rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, and found ourselves in- stantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred to thought and religion, if one had any It was a great cave in the midst of a city; and what were the altars and the tinsel but the sparkling stalacties, into which you entered in a moment, and where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable thought? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand of onr churches which are open only Sundays." (Thoreau.) Fronting on the Place d'Armes are the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge of the Masons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and seclnded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, the * Court House is seen on the 1., —a stately stone building in Ionio architecture <800 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering 28,800 square yards, and ample enough for the display of 3,000 troops. The great'Structure fronting across Craig' St. was built for the Dominion Military School, which is now estab- lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. side of the Champ de Mars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartier Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- dated monument to Nelson (erected in 1808), and two Russian guns from Sebastopol. Near the head of this square, in the ancient French Govern- ment building, is the medical school of Laval University. The building dates from 1704, and was the headquarters of the American generals iri 1775 -76, and of the British governors until Montreal was decapitalized. By the next side-street (St. Clande) to the r., the *Bousecours Mar- ket may be visited. This market is uurivalled in America, and is built of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of $ 300,000. It is three stories high, has a lofty dome, and presents an imposing front to the river. MONTREAL. Route 75. 31.3 The curious French costumes and language of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is the Quebec railway station, on the site of the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks j and the Victoria Pier makes out into the stream towards St. Belen's Isle, formerly a fortified depot of ammunition and war materiel, which was named by Cliamplain in honor of his wife. The Isle is now a lovely marine park, with forts and barracks still standing, and is reached by a ferry-steamer from Bonsecours Market. To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger Garden, with a small con- servatory and several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousic Square, on St. Mary St., are Mol- son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson's brewery and the Papineau Market and Square (on which are the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.). The suburb of Hochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 M. beyond the Papineau Square. McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square to'the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- count of these" riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- missioners' St. leads E. by St Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- Souse to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. to the heavy masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the Victoria Bridge. Radegonde St and Beaver-Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The armed congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the troops restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Unitari- an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the r., Lagauchetiere St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic build- ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 professors) and the 'Church of the Gesii. The nave of the church (75 ft high) is bounded by rich 14 316 Route 75. MONTREAL. contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 patients. It takes care of aged. and infirm men and women, orphans and foundlings, and has large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eighths die, and the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school (169 stndents) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesii, on St. Cath- erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel is built in a light and delicate form of Romanesque architecture, and is richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital, with 150 beds; the Hospice of St. Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Asile de la Providence (122 nuns) are near Labelle St.; and numerous other convents and asylums are found throughout this singular city, which is both British and French, commer- cial and monastic, progressive and mediaeval, — combining American en- terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. The * H6tel Dim de VUle Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St James St, and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The chapel is a spa- cious hall over which is a dome 150 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1859, and is con- ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are generally about 500 persons in the building, consisting of the nans and their charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of St. Jean Baptiste (5,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the city by horse-cars on St. Lawrence Main St * Mount Royal Park, a long wooded ridge 750 ft. high, covers 430 acres, and was bought by the city in 1874, and laid out by F. L. Olmstead. Stages run through it every half-hour, starting from the Montreal Post- Office, and passing the Windsor (ticket up and back, 25 c.; restaurant on summit). A superb view is afforded, inclnding the city and scores of vil- lages, the distant Adirondacks and Green Mts., Rougemont and Beloeil, and the St Lawrence and Ottawa and their lakes. Point St. Charles is beyond the Lachine-Canal Basins, and is traversed by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the summer of 1847. The * Victoria Bridge is the longest and most costly bridge in '' .jtt consists of 23 spans of 242 ft each (the central one MONTREAL. Route 75, 317 330 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masoury, cemented and iron- riveted, with sharp wedge-faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- ing the track are 19 X 10 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,000 ft. long and !i0 ft. wide, which, with the 6,094 ft- of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,104 ft. from grade to grade and over l\ M. from shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in lt54, and finished in 1859; it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost 36,300,000. There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. In the early autumn of 1535 Jats painted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy haek of the MounUiii of Montreal, and below, eiieompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town," surroii iided with triple palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, and the sick and maimed were brought to tiiein to be healed, *' as if a god had come down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read alond the Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word); then presents were given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- nence the name of Mont lioy at, whence is derived the pre-cut name of the city. In 1003 this point was visited by the uobte Champlain, but Hochclaga had disap- peared, and only a few wandering AlgoiitIuins could be seen in the country. The Iroquois of the great town had boon driveu to the S. by the powerful Algonquins (such is the Mohawk tradition). At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris hoard celestial voices, bidding thetn to found a hospital tHotel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont Koyal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the I.-le of Mont Royal, and formed the Society of Notre D.inio de Montreal. With the Lord of Maisonueuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy Family under the name of-' Ville Marie do Montreal " (Feb., 1041). May IS, 1042, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was conclnded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on \ mi, and your children shall till the land.'' The Hotel Dieu was- founded in 1647, and in 1057 the Sulpiciaus of Paris established a seminary here. In 1089, l,4o0 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. .Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops from New York, leaving only the citadel. which his utmost efforts could not reduce. In 17'50 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city , which then had 4,000 in- habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 10) of his men. Oen. P resent t sent them to Kngiand as •' banditti,'' and Allen was imprisoned in Pendenni' Castle. Iu the fill of 1775 the city was taken by the American army under (Jen. Montgomery. With tin- close of the War of 1312, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,707 inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this place, and its increase has for many years been steady, suh»tin»ial, and rapid. In loM2 the cholera desmned 1.&43 persons, out of a population of#i,oo0; and in 1852 a large part of the city was burned. St' years ago vessels of over 3"0 tous could not reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- chants Uieaded by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean steamships of 4,0U0 tons, and by the largest vessels of the mere haul-marine. 318 Route 76. "ABOUND THE MOUNTAIN." 76. The Environs of Montreal. Montreal is situated on the S. E. side of the island of Montreal, which is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 par- ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," a distance of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb of St. Jean Baptiste (whence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at Cote St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes the avenue which leads (to the 1.) to the Mount Royal Cemetery. The road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N. and W., inclnding 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear day the spires of the Catholic College of St. TheY'esc are seen, several leagues to the N., beyond the Riviere aux Chiens. The village of Cote des Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cote " des Neiges in France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the Seminary grounds, from which a beautiful * view is obtained. (The usual charges for the ride around the mountain are S1-50 for 2 - 3 persons, in a cab, or 8 2 for 4 persons; for a two-horse carriage, $ 4, for 1 - 4 persons.) A road turns to the r. from Cote' des Neiges and passes around the bold highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair rural scenery. Beyond the hamlet of Cote St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine, the seat of the fine building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called ViUa Maria, and is occu- pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and 172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa Maria is the Church of St Luc. The short road from this point to the city is made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for 4 M. after passing the toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. The Sault au RecoUet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviera des Prairies, and is frequently visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. Pienic parties occupy the forest-covered Priests' Island, whence the de- scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault au Recollct is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). Hochelaga is at the N. E. end of the Montreal horse-car line, and is LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 76. 319 the point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Railways are to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid of St. Mary. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of the Sacred Name of Jesus and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- tion in Canada. Hochelaga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge; and 3-4 M. farther E. is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier resided. The river-road gives views of Longaeuil, Boucherville, and Varennes, on the S. shore. Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque; and tiie upper road runs through the manufacturing town called Tannery West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one road and return by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in . 1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China (La Chine). In 1689 the Iroquois Indians destroyed the French town here, with all its inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite Lachine is the populous village of Caughnawaga, inhabited by about B00 of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are governed by a council of seven chiefs. The * Lachine Rapids may be visited by taking the 7 A. M. train (at the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out "Snddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into spray and Into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm- lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, uuruffled bosom "of ' below the rapids.'" The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (see page 816), and opens an imposiog panoramic "view of the city. (Tickets for the round- trip cost 50 c. -, and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 A. M.) The Beloeil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand Trunk Railway to St. Hilaire, whence the mountain is easily ascended, passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- rence) the Bishop of Nancy erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, several years ago. The "view from Belceil inclndes a radins of 60 M over the fertile and thickly settled plains of the St. Lawrence Valley, with the blue mountains of Vermont far away in the S. K. The Boucherville Moun- tain is reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, INDEX. Abattis, P. Q. 292. Advocate Harbor 103, 80. Agulquac River 54. Ainslie Glen 167, 169. Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. Albert Mines, N. B. 72. Alberton, P. E. 1.179. Albion Mines, N. S. 136. Aldouin lilver, 60. Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. Alexander Point 63. Alexis River 225. Allagash River. Me. 58. Allandale, N. B. 52. Alright Id. 184. Alston Point, N. B. 65. Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. Amherst Id. 183. Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. Andover, N. B. 54. Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. Annandale, P. E. I. 182. Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. Annapolis Royal 85. Annapolis Valley 88. Anticosti 234. Antigonish, N. S. 138. Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. Apple River, N. S. 80. Apsey Cove, N. F. 210. Aquafort, N. F. 19S. Ardoise Mt., N. 8. 93. Argentenay. P. Q. 290. Argyle, N. S. 116. 125. Arichat, C. B. 145. Arisalg, N. S. 139. Aroostook Valley, Me. 65. Arthurctte, N. B. 54. Aspotogon Mt., N. S. 127. Aspy Bay, C. B. 160. Athol, N. B. 80. Atlantic Cove, C. B. 160. Aulac, N. B. 74. Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. Avonport, N. S. 91. Aylesford, N. 3. 89. Aylesford Lakes 90. Baccalieu Id., N.F. 201,205. Baccaro Point, N. S. 123. Iladdeck, C. B. 162. Baddeck River. 167. Bagotville, P. Q. 302. itaie des Rochers, P. Q. 295. Baie St. Paul, P. Q. 292. Baie Verte, N S. 74. Ballard Bank, The 199. Ballyhaly Bopr N. F. 195. Bangor, Me. 39. Barachois, N.B. 59. Barenoed, N. F. 207. Barnaby Id., P. Q. 250. Barra, Strait of 164. Barr'd Ids., N. F. 210. Barrow, N. F. 214. Barrow Harbor 203. Barton, N. S. 112. Basin of Minu 101,108. Basque Harbor 183. Basque Island 251. Bass River 81. Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61. Batiscan, P. Q. 307. Batteau Harbor 225. Battery Point, N. B. 68. Battle Id.,Lab. 224,200,206. Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. Belleisle, N. B. 42. Bonavista, N. F. 203. Bonne, Lab. 219. Bradore, Lab. 230. Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. Canada, N. F. 221. Cardigan, P. E. 1.175. Conception, N.F. 195,206. De Grave, N. F. 207. DuVin.N. B. 61. East, C. B. 147. Esquimaux, Lab 230. Eternity, P. Q. 308. Fortune, N. F: 214. Garia. N. F. 215 H.i Ha, P. Q. 301. Halls, N. F. 211. Hermitage, N. F. 215. Hillsborough 174,175. Ingornachoix 219. Kennebecasis 40. Bay, Little, N. V. 215. Mahone, N. S. 118,127. Miramichi, N. B. 61. Oak, N. B. 34. ofChaleur64, 240. of Despair 215. of Fair and False 203. of Kuiidy 31, 83. of Islands 218. of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. of St. John 219. Placentia, N. F. 212. Richmond, P. E. I. 178. Roberts, N. F. 207. St. Anne's, C. B. 158: St. George's. N. F. 217. St. John's, P. Q 304. St. Margaret's 126,118. St. Mary's 112, 213. Sandwich, Lab. 225. Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. Verd, N. F. 201, 20S. White, N. F 221. Beach, The 206. Bear Cove 93. Bear Point 143. Bear River 85. Beaubair's Id., N. B. 63. Beaulieu, P. Q 289. Beaumont, P. Q. 254. Beauport, P. Q. 276. Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 Beaver Harbor, C. B. 162. Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31. Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. Beaver River 114. Becancour, P. Q. 307. Bedeque Bay, P E I. 174. Bedford Basin, N. 8 100. Bellechasse Id. 254. Belledune, N. B 66. Belle Isle 220, 206. Belleisle Bay, N. II. 42. Bei l Isle, N F. 221. Belleorem, N. F. 214. Belliveau Cove, N. S. 112. Belliveau Village 73. Bekeil Mt., P. Q. 319. Benacadie Point 166. 322 INDEX. Ben more 280. Bersimig River 233. Berthier en bos 254. Berthier en haul 308. Berwick, N. S. 90. Bic Id., P. Q. 251. Big Loran, C. B. 154. Big Tancook Id. 128. Biquette, P. Q. 251. Bitch Point G4. Birchtown.N. S. 121. Bird Island Core 202. Bird Isles 184. Bird liock 161. Black Bay 228. Black Brook 61. Blackhead 196. Blackhead Cove 210. Black Point, N. S. 122. Black River, N. F. 212. Black River, P. Q. 295. Blancherotte, C. B. 147. Blanc Sablon, Lab. 229. Blandford, N. B. 27. Blind Lake, N. S. 126. Bliss Id., N. B. 31. Blissville, N. B. 49. Blockhouse Mines 153. Blomidon, Cape 102,103. Bloody Bay.N. F. 203. Bloody Bridge 79. Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. Blow-nic-Down Head 207. BlueMts.,N. S. 90,115. Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. Bine Rocks, N. S. 118. Boar's Back, N. S. 82. Boar's Head, N. B. 40. Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. Boisdale 162. Bonami Point 67. Bonaparte Lake 36. Bonaventure Id. 243. Bonavista Bay, N. F. 203. Bonhomme, Le 307. Bonne Bay 219. Bonne Esperance Bay 230. Bonny, Lab. 230. Bon Portage Id 124. Bonshaw, P. E. I. 174. Bothwell, P. E I. 182. Boucherville, P. Q. 309. Boularderie, C. B. 161. Bout de l'lsle 308. Bradford's Cove 29. Bradore Bay, Lab. 230. Brae, P. E. I. 179. Braha, N. F. 221. Branch, N. F. 212. Brandies, The 201. Brandy Pots 252, 296. Bras d'Or, The 161. Breton, Cape 149,154. Bridgeport, C. B. 152. Bridgetown, N. S. 88. Bridgeton, P. E. I. 182. Bridgewaterl28, 119. Brigg's Corner 49. Brighton, N. S. 112. Brigus, N. F. 207. Bristol, N. B. 51. Broad Cove, N. B. 29. Broad Cove, N. F. 203. Broad Cove, N. S. 120. Broad Cove Intervale 169. Brookneld, N. S. 82,130. Brooklyn, N. S. 93. Brookvale, N. B. 48. Broyle Harbor 197. Brucker's Hill 26. Brule Harbor 81. Brunet Id. 214. Bryant's Cove 207. Buctouche,N. B. 59. Bull Arm, N. F. 209. Bull Moose Hill 41. Burgeo, N. F. 215. Burgoyne's Ferry 51. Burin, N. F. 214, 212. Burlington, N. 8 93. Burnt Church 62, 63. Burnt Head 207. Burnt Ridge 202. Burton, N. B. 43. Burying Place 211. Butter Pots, The 199. Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. Calais, Me. 35. Caledonia Corner 130. Calliere, P. Q. 295. Calvaire, Miq. 185. Calvaire, P. Q. 306. Cambridge, N. B. 42. Cambriol, N. F. 214. Campbell River 55. Campbellton, N. B. 68. Camille, Mt. 249. Campobello Id. 25. Canaan River 72. Canada Bay 221. Canada Creek 90. Canning, N. B. 43. Canning, N. 8. 91. Canso 142. Canterbury 37, 52. Cap a l'Aigle 294. au Corbeau 292. de la Magdelaine 307. de Meule 184. Rouge 281. St. Ignace 253. Cape Alright 184. Anguille, N. F. 217. Ballard, N. F. 213. llauld, N. F. 220. Bear 175. 181. Blomidon, 91,102,103. Cape Bluff, Lab. 225. Breton, 149,154. Broyle, N. F. 197. Canso, N. S. 134,142. Chapeau Rouge 214, 189. Chatte, P. Q. 249. Chiguecto, N. S. 104. Cove, N. 8. 114. Cove, P. Q. 241. Coiombier P. Q. 233. Corneille, 294. Dauphin 158,161. Desolation 226. Despair, P. Q. 241. Diable, P. rJ 252 d'Or, N. S. 103. East, P. Q. 301. Eginont, P. E. 1.174,179. English, N. F. 213. Enrage, N. B. 72. Eternity, P. Q. 803. Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. Fourchu, N. S. 125. Freels, N. F. 203, 213. GaspiS, P. Q. 246. George, P. Q. 304. Goose 294. Grand Bank 214. Gribaune291. Jourimain 59, 73. Kildarel80. Labaie292. Lahave, N. S. 120. La Ilune 215. Largent 202. Mabou, C. B. 16S. Magdelaine 248. Milliard 292. Maraugouln 73. Morten, C. B. 153. Negro, N. S. 122. Norman, N. F. 220. North, C. B. 160. Perry, C. B. 153. Pine, N. F. 213. Porcupine, N. S. 144. Race, N. F 199,189. Ray, N. F. 217, 216. Rhumore, C. B. 147. Ridge, N. F. 203. Roseway, N. S. 12L Rosier 247, 246. Rouge 291. Sable, N. S. 123. St. Anne 249. St. Francis 201, 225, 301. St. George 218 St. Lawrence 160,170. St. Michael 225. St. Nicholas 233. Sambro 118, 93. Smoky, C. B. 159. Spear, N.F. 189,196. Spencer 104, S3. 324 INDEX. Fairy Lake, N.S. 130. Falkland, N. S. 90, 93. Falls Chandiere 282, 320. Chiooutimi, P. Q. 300. Grand 65, 66. Grand, N. F. 210. Grande-Mere 307. Lorette, P. Q. 278. Magaguadavic 32. Manitousin 232. Montmorenci 277. Nictau, N. S 89. North River 105. Pabineau, N. B. 66. Pokiok, N. B. 52. Pollett 72. Rideau, Ont. 320. Riviere du Loup 295. Riviere du Snd 253. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. Sault a la Puce 284. Shawanegan 307. Kissiboo, N. S. 112. Falmouth, N. 8. 91. Farmington, N. S. 89. Father Point, P. Q. 250. Ferguson's Cove 101. Formeuse, N. F. 198. Fern Ledges 24. Ferryland, N. F. 198. Fish Head 30. Five Ids., N. S. 105, 80. Flagg's Cove 29. Fleurant Point 67. Flint Id., C. B. 150,153. Florenceville, N. B. 53. Flower Cove 219. Fogo, N. F. 204. Folly Pass, N. 8. 80. Forks, The 48,54. Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. Fort Beausejour 74, 78. Fort Cumberland 74, 78. Forteau, Lab. 228. Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. Fort Ingalls, N. B. 58. Fort Jaques Cartier 306. Fort Kent, Me. 58. Fort Lawrence 74, 78. Fort Meductic, N. B. 52, 46. Fort Nascopic, Lab. 226. Fort Norwest, Lab. 226. Fortune, N. F. 214. Foster's Cove 54. Fourchette, N. F. 221. Fourchu, C. B. 147. Fox Harbor, N. S. 103,81. Fox Harbor, Lab. 224. Fox River 248. Framboise, C. B. 147. Fnuer's Head 104. Fredericton, N. B. 44. Fredericton Jul French Cro»" no. 38. French Fort Creek 180. French Lake 48. Frenchman's Cove 214. French River 138. French Shore, The 216.' French Village 151. Frenchville, Me. 57. Freshwater Bay 203. Friar's Face 26. Frozen Ocean 130. Funk Id., N. F. 204. Gabarus Bay 154,149. Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. Gairloch.N. S. 136. Galantry Head 185. Gambo Ponds 203. Gander Bay 210. Gannct Rock, N. B 29. Gannet Rock 184. Garia Bay 215. Garnish, N. F. 214. Gaspc.P. Q. 244. Gaspereaux Lake 90. Gay's River, N. 8. 82. Gentilly, P. Q. 307. George Id. 179. George's Id., N. S. 98. Georgetown.P. E. 1.181,175 Gibson, N. B. 49. Gilbert's Cove 112. Glace Bay 153,150. Glengarry, N. S. 136. Goat Id., N. S. 85. Godbout, Lab. 233. Goldonville, N. 8. 133. Gold River 128. Gondola Point 71. Gooseberry Isles, 203. Goose Id. 253. Gouflre, Le 293. Gowrie Mines 153. Grand Anse, C. B. 145. Grand Anse, N. B. 66. Grand Banks, The 199. Grand Bay 40. Grand Digue 145. Grande Baie 302. Grande-Mere Falls 307. Grand Falls, Lab. 226. Grand Falls, N. B. 55. Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. Grand Harbor 29. Grand Lake 36, 48. Grand Lake Stream 35. Grand Manan 28. Grand Narrows 164. Grand Pond 218. 211. Grand Pre 107, 91, 101. Grand RiTor, C. B. 147." Grand River, N. B. 56. Grand River 241. Grand-River Lake 147. Grand Rustico 178. Grandy's Brook, 215. Grant Isle, Me. 57. Granville, N. S. 86. Great Barti bog 61. Great Boule 233. Great Bras d'Or 161,164. Great Codroy 217. Great Ha Ha Lake 302. Great Harbor Deep 221. Great Mcccatina 230. Great Miquelon 186. Great pabos 241. Great Pond 248. Great Pubnico Lake 124. Great St. Lawrence 214. Great Shemogue 59. Great Village 81. Green Bay 211. Greenfield 130. Green Harbor 209. Green Ids 124, 214, 252. Greenly Id. 229. Green River 57. Greenspond N. F. 203. Greenville 80. Greenwich Hill 41. Grenville Harbor 178. Griffin's Cove 248. Griguet, N. F. 221. Grimross, N. B. 42. Grindstone Id. 183. Grondines, P. Q. 306. Grosse Isle 254. Grosses Coques 113. Gull Rock 121. :.. Gut of Canso 142. Guysborough 133. Habitants Bay 143. Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 301. Halifax, N. 8 93. Admiralty House 97. Cathedral 98. Citadel 96. Dalhousie Coll. 98. Gov't House 98. Harbor 93. Hortic. Gardens 98. Museum 96 Parliament Building 95. Provincial Building 95.' Queen's Dockyard 97. Y. M. C. A. 96. Halifax, P. E. I. 179. Hall's Bay 211,218. Hammond's Plains 100. Hampton, N. B. 71. Hampton, N. S. 89. Hantsport, N. 8. 91,101. Harbor Briton 214. Harbor Buffet 212. Harbor Grace, N. F. 207. Harborviile, N. 8. 90. Hare Bay, N. F. 221. INDEX. 325 Hare Id., P. Q. 252. Hare's Eara 198. Hare's-Head Hills 218. Harmony, P. E. L 182. Harvey, N. B. 38. Harvey Comer 72. Haulover Isthmus 146. Havelock, N. S. 89. Head of Amherst 7S. Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. Heart's Content 208. Heart's Delight 209. Heart's Desire 209. Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. Hebertville, P. Q. 300. Hebron, Lab. 226. Heights of Land 226. Hell Hill 197. Hermitage Bay 215. Herring Cove, N.8. 93. High Beacon 227. Highland Park 23. Highland Village 81. High Point 301. Hillsborough, N. B. 72. Hillsborough Bay 174. Hillsborough River 180. Hillsburn 86. Hochelaga, P. Q. 318. Hodge-Water River 213. Holland Bay, 180. Holyrood, N. F. 199. Holyrood Pond 213. Hooping Harbor 221. Hope, P. Q. 241. Hope All, N. F. 209. Hopedale, Lab. 226. Hopewell 136. Hopewell Cape 72. Horton Landing 91. Houlton, Me. 37, 51. Howe's Lake 23. Hudson's Strait 226. Humber River 219. Hunter River 177,17S. Indian Bay 167. 203. Indian Beach 3O. Indian Gardens 130. Indian Id., Lab. 225. Indian Ids. 210. Indian Lorette 278. Indian Tickle 225. Indiantown, N. B. 47. Indian Village 51. Ingonish, C. B. 159. Intervale 133 Ionclay Hill 197. Irish Cove, C. B. 147. Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. Ironbound Id., N. S.119. Island, Alright 184. Amherst 183. Anticosti 234. Island, Baccalien, N. F. 201. Barnaby, P. Q. 250. Beaubair's 63. Bellcchasse 254. Bic, P. Q. 250. Blackbii l 227. Bonaventure 243. Bon Portage 124. Boughton 175. Boularderie 161. Brandy Pots 252. Brier 117. Brunet 214. Bryon 184. Campobello 25. Cape Breton 141. Cape Sable 123. Caribou 175, 224. Carrousel 233. Castle, Lab. 227. Caton's 41. Cawee233. Chapel 147. Cbeticamp 170. Cheyne 29. Christmas 164. Cobbler's 203. Coffin 184. Cole's 47. Cottel's 203. Crane, P. Q. 253. Cross, N. S. 118. Dead, N. F. 225. Deer 203. Devil, N. S. 93. Egg, Lab. 233. Entry 184. Esquimaux, Lab. 231. Exploits, N. F. 205, 210. Fair, N. F. 203. Fishilake 227. Fly 225. Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. Foster's, N. B. 41. Fox, N. B. 61. Funk, N. F. 203. George 179. George's, N.S. 98. Goat, N. S. 85. Goose, P. Q. 253. Governor's 175. Grand Dune 61. Grand Manan 28. Grassy, N. B. 41. Great Caribou 224. Green 124, 201, 220, 252. Grimross, N. B. 43. Grindstone 72,183. Grosse 184. Hare, P. Q. 252. Heury 169. Heron 67. Horse 221. Huntington 225. Island, Indian 225. Ireland, N. F. 215. Ironbound 119. Jaques Cartier 220. Kamouraska 252. Large 231. Lennox, P. E. I. 179. Little Miquelon 186. Little Bay 211. Locke's, N. S. 121. Long 42,101,107,117,212. Lower Musquash 42. McNab's, N. S. 101,93. Madame, P. Q. 254. Mauger's 43. Melville 101. Mcrasheen 212. Middle 43. Miquelon 186. Miscou 64. Moose 26. Nantucket 29. Negro 122. Newfoundland 187. New World 205. of Ponds 225. Panmure, P. E. I. 175. Park, P. E. 1.179. Partridge, N. B. 15. Partridge N. S. 102, 103. Penguin 203. Pictou, N. S. 175. Pilgrims 252. Pincber's 203. Pinnacle 105. Pocksuedie 63. Pool's 203. Portage 61. Priests' 318. Prince Edward 172. Quarry 231. Quirpon 220. Ram 121. Random, N. F. 209. Beaux, P. Q. 254. Red 212, 218, 252. Sable 134. Saddle 228. Sagoua 214. St. Barbe221. St. Paul's 160. St. Pierre 185. Sandous 46. Seal, N. S. 124. Sea-Wolf 169. Sheldrake 61. Shippigan 63. Smith's 169. Spencer's 103,104,106. Spotted, H. F. 225. Square, Lab. 225. Stone Pillar 253. Sugar 60,51. Venison 225. INDEX. 329 Pictou 137,168. '' pictou Id. 175. Pilgrims, The 252. Pincher's Id. 20a Pinnacle Id., N. S. 105. Pirate's Cove 143. Pisarinoo Core 31. Placentia Bay 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143,168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Plcureuse Point 249. Plumweseep 71. Pockmouchc, N. B. 62. Pockshaw, N. 11. 66. Point i Bcaulicu 295 Point Aconi, C. B. lfil. Amour, Lab. 228. a Pique 294. - au Bourdo 69. de Monts 233, 249. da Chene 59, 60. la Boule 305. Lepreau 31. Levi, P. Q. 282. Maqucreau 241. Miscou, N. B. 64. Orignaux 252. Pleasant 40. 68,100. Prim 175,181. Rich, N. F. 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointe a la Garde 68. a la Croix 68. aax Trembles 306, 309. Millc Vaches 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Pokiok Falls 52. Pollett River 72. Pomquet Forks 139. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. tir.mil, N. F. 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213. Ponhook Lake 130,126. Port Acadie, N. 8. 113. Portage Road, N. B. 61. Port au Basque, N. F. 216. au Choix 219. au Persil, P. Q. 295. au Pique 81. au Port, N. P. 218. aux Quilles, 295. Daniel 241. Elgin, N. B. 73. Porter's Lake, N. S. 131. Port Greville, N. S. 103. Hastings, C. B. 143. Hawkesbury 143. Herbert, N. S. 121. Port Hill, P. E. I. 179. Hood, C. B. 169. Joli, N. 8. 121. Latour, N. S. 122. Medway, N. 8. 120. Mouton 120. Mulgnire 143,140. Port Neuf, Lab. 238. Portneuf, P. Q. 306. Porto Nuevo Id. 149. Portugal Cove 195, 206. Port St. Augustine 230. Port Williams 89, 91. Powder-Horn Hills 212. Pownal, P. E. I. 177. Prcsque Isle, Me. 54. Preston, N. S. 131. Preston's Bench 61. Prim Point 83. Prince Edward Id. 172. Princetown, P. E. 1.178. Prince William 52. Prince William St. 89. Pubnico, N. S. 125. Pugwasb.81,80. Quaco, N. B. 71. Quebec, P. Q. 255. Anglican Cathedral 260. Basilica 261. Cathedral 261. Citadel 266. Custom House 271. Durham Terrace 259. Esplanade 268 Gen. Hospital 272. tint's Garden 269. Grand Battery 269. Hotel Dieu 266 Jesuits' College 261. Laval University 263. Lower Town 271. Marine Hosp 272. Market Sq. 260. Martello Towers 270. Montcalm Ward 270. Motrin College 265 N. D. des Yictoires 271. Parliament Building 263. Post-Office 264. St. John Ward 269. St. Roch 272. Seminary 262. Ursuline Conv. 264. Quemo tiospen 213. Quiddy Viildv 195. Quirpon.N. F. 220. .Quispamsis, N B. 70. 'Quoddy Head 26. [Ragged Harbor 201. Ragged Ids. 212. Rauiea Ids. N. F. 215. Ram Id. 121. Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. Random Sound 209. Rankin's Mills, N. B. 37. Rapide de Femme 56. Rapids, Lachine 319. Meductic 62. St. Anne 320. St. Mary's 819. Terres Rompues 300. Red Bay 228. Red Cliffs, Lab. 220, 228. Red Head, N. F. 200. Red Hills, N. F. 199. Red-Indian Pond 210,211. Red Ids. 147 Red Point 182. Red Rapids, N. B. 54. Rcmsheg, N. S. 81. Rencwse, N. F. 198. Rentrew, N. S. 82. Repentigny, P. Q. 308. Restigouche River 69, 56. Richibucto, N. B. 60. Richmond Bay 178. Rigolette, Lab. 226. liimouski, P. Q 250 River, Avon, N. S. 91. Charlo, N. B. 66. Deuys, C. B. 166. Gold, N. S. 128 Gouffre, P. Q. 292. Hillsborough 180. Humbcr, N F. 219. John, N S. 81. La Have, N. S. 128. Louison, N. II. 66. Magaguadavic 32. Manitou, Lab. 232. Miramichi 61. Mistassini 301. Moisic. Lab. 232. Nepisiguit65,55. of Castors 219. Exploits 210. Ottawa 320. Petitcodiac 72. Philip, N. S. 80. Restigouche 69, 58. Saguenay 297,233. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. St. Croix, N. B. 83. St. John, Lab 232. St. Lawrence 246, 306 St. Marguerite 306. St. Mary's, N. S. 133. St Maurice 307. Riversdale, N. S 136. River, Tobique 54. Riviere i l'Onrs 301. a Mars 302. du Loup 295, 252. Mahcu 290. Onelle, P. Q. 252. Robbinston, Me. 33. Roberval, P. Q. 301. INDEX. 329 Pictou 137,166. Pictou Id. ITS. Pilgrims, The 252. Pincher's Id. 20a Pinnacle Id., N. 3. 105. Pirate's Cove 143. Pisarinco Cove 81. Placentia Bay 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143,168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Plcureuse Point 249. Plumweseep 71. Pockniouclic, N. B. 62. Pock8haw, N. II. 66. Point a Beaulieu 295 Point Aconi, C. B. 161. Amour, Lab. 228. a Pique 294. - au Bourdo 69. de Monts 233, 249. du Ohene 59, 60. la Boule 305. Lepreau 31. Levi, P. Q. 282. Maqucreau '211. Miscou, N. B. Oi. Origuaux 252. Pleasant 40, 68,100. Prim 175,181. Rich, N. F. 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointc a la Garde 68. a la Croix 68. ui Trembles 306, 309. Mille Vaches 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Poltiok Falls 52. Pollett River 72. Pomquet Forks 139. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. Grand, N. F. 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213. Ponhook Lake 130,126. Port Acadic, N. S. 113. Portage Road, N. B. 61. Port au Basque, N. F. 216. au Choix 219. au Persil, P. Q. 295. au Pique 81. au Port, N. F. 21S. aux Quilles, 295. Daniel 241. Elgin, N. B. 73. Porter's Lake, N. S. 131. Port Greville N. 8. 103. Hastings, C. B. 143. Hawkesbury 143. Herbert, N. S. 12L Port mil, P. E. I. 179. Hood, 0. B. 169. Joli, N. 8.121. Latour, N. S. 122. Medway, N. S. 120. Mouton 120. Mulgrave 143,140. Port Neuf, Lab. 233. Portneuf, P. Q. 306. Porto Nucvo Id. 149. Portugal Cove 195, 206. Port St. Augustine 230. Port Williams 89, 91. Powder-Horn Hills 212. Pownal, P. E. I. 177. Presque Isle, Me. 54. Preston, N. S. 131. Preston's Beach 61. Prim Point 83. Prince Edward Id. 172. Priocetown, P. E. 1.178. Prince William 52. Prince William St. 89. Pubnico, N. 8.125. Pugwash 81, 80. Quaco, N. B. 71. Quebec, P. Q. 255. Anglican Cathedral 260. Basilica 261. Cathedral 261. Citadel 266. Custom House 271. Durham'Terrace 259. Esplanade 268 Gen. Hospital 272. Gov.'s Garden 269. Grand Battery 269. Hotel Dieu 266 Jesuits' College 261. Laval University 263. Lower Town 271. Marine Hosp 272. Market Sq. 260. Martello Towers 270. Montcalm Ward 270. Morrin College 265. N. D. des Victoires 271. Parliament Building 263. Post-Office 264. St. John Ward 269. St. Iloch 272. Seminary 262. Ursuline Conv. 264. ,Quemo Gospen 213. Quiddy Viddy 195. JQuirpon, N. F. 220. .Quispamsis, N B- 70. Quoddy Head 26. I Ragged Harbor 201. Ragged Ids. 212. R in.ea 1.1s. N. F. 215. Hani Id. 121. Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. Random Sound 209. .; Rankin's Mills, N. B. 37. Rapide de Femme 56. Rapids, Lacbine 819. Meductic 52. St. Anne 320. St. Mary's 319. Terres Rompues 300. Red Bay 228. Red Cliffs, Lab. 220, 228. Red Head, N. F. 200. Red Hills, N. F. 199. Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. Red Ids 147. ; Red Point 182. Rod Rapids, N. B. 54. Remsheg, N. S 81. Rencwse, N. F. 198. Renlrew, N. S. 82. Repentigny, P. Q. 308. Restigouchc River 69, 56. Richibucto, N. B. 60. Richmond Bay 178. Rigolette, Lab. 226. ltimouski, P. Q. 250. River, Avon, N. S. 91. Charlo, N. B. 66. Deuys, C. B. 165. Gold, N. S. 128 Gouffre, P. Q. 292. Hillsborough 180. Humbcr, N F. 219. John, N S. 81. LaHave, N. S. 12S. Louison, N. B. 66. Magaguadavic 32. Manitou, Lab. 232. Miramichi 61. Mistassini 301. Moisic. Lab. 232. Nepisiguit 65, 55. of Castors 219. Exploits 210. 01 tawa 320. Pctitcodiac 72. Philip, N. 8. 80. Reftigouche 69, 56. Saguenay 297, 233. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. St. Croix, N. B. 33. St. John, Lab 232. St. Lawrence 246, 305 St. Marguerite 305. St. Mary's, N. S. 133. St Maurice 307. Riversdale, N. S 136. River, Toblque 54. Riviere a l'Onrs 301. a Mars 302. du Loup 295,252. Mahcu 290. Onelle, P. Q. 252. Robbinston, Me. 33. Roberval, P. Q. 301. INDEX. 335 A History of the Island of Cape Breton; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., P. R. 0. S. (London, 1869.) Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) Letters on Cape Breton; by Thomas Pichon. (London, 1760.) Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing; by Charles Dndley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) Prince Edward Island; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island; by C. B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Travels in Prince Edward Island; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) A Concise History of Newfoundland; by F. R. Page. (London, 1860.) History of the Government of Newfoundland; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- don, ITM) Catechism of the History of Newfoundland; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) Pedley's History of Newfoundland. Anspach'a History of Newfoundland. Newfoundland in 1842; by Sir R. H. Bonnycastle. (2 vols.; London, 1842.) Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838.) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols.; London. 1842.) Geological Survey of Newfoundland for 1873; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 1874.) After Icebergs with a Painter; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, I860.) A Voyage to Labrador; by L' Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the Coast of Labrador; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. G. S. (2 vols.; London, 1863.) Sixteen Years'Residence on the Coast of Labrador; by George Cartwright. (3 vols.; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXIL History and General Description of New France; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 vols.; In Shea's translation; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la Nouvelle France; by Marc Lescarbot. (1609; Paris, 1866 J 8 vols.) Cours d'Histoire du Canada; by L'Abbo Ferland. Histoire de la Colonie Franraise en Canada; by M. Faillon. (3 vols.; Ville-Marie [Mon- treal), 1865-6). History of Canada; by F. X. Garneau. (Bell's translation; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) Novus Orbis; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) Les Relations des Jesuits. Lower Canada; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) British Dominions in North America; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) British America; by John M'Gregor. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) La France nux Colonies; by M Ranieau. (Paris, 1859.) Le Canada au Point de Vue Economique; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) Hochelaga, or England in the New World; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols.; New York, 1846.)' The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols.; London, 1849.) The First English Conquest of Canada; by Heury Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) The Jesuits of North America; by Francis Parkman. The Old Regime in Canada; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols. ; Paris, 1866.) Sketches of Celebrated Canadians; by Heury J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834 ) Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1858.) Decouverte du Tombeau de Champlain; by Laverdlere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) Maple Leaves; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) ;: ALPHABETICAL INDEX T0 ADVERTISEMENTS. PiOK BOSTON AND MAINE EAILKOAD lacing titlepage BOSTON, HALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAM- SHIP LINE 9 COOK & SON, THOMAS . . 2 EASTERN RAILROAD ....... frout cover lining „ t, ..,..• ,f tt r EASTERN SEA-COAST ROUTE 3 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY . 3 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. . \' '.'- . . back cover lining LEVE & ALDEN . . . - - \."' 10 MYRTLE HOUSE 8 OSGOOD'S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS 4 OSGOOD'S COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE ... g PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAMSHIP COMPANY . . . 6 QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY . . 4 ST. JOHN AND MAINE RAILWAY 5 ST. LOUIS HOTEL .... 7 TRAVEL, NEW BOOKS OF back cover lining THOS. 0O0K & SON, Tourist and Excursion Agents (ESTABLISHED 1841), flriipf flffirpq { z61 BKOADWAY. NEW TORK' \JLIIC1 UlLOlCB • • l LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. NEW ENGLAND OFFICE: 197 Washington Street, Boston. TOURIST AND EXCURSION TICKETS BY ALL CHIEF LINES '' ''''' TO ALL PLACES OF TOURIST RESORT NEW ENGLAND MARITIME PROVINCES, Issued especially for Pleasure Travel, allowing breaks'in the journey, and in many cases at REDUCED RATES. Full '" ~Uars on application. Address as above. INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. EASTERN SEA- COAST BOtTTE. OCEAN DAY ROUTE TO PORTLAND. Old-established Line of Steamers between Boston, Portland, Eastport, and St. John, N. B., With Connections to 0ALAIS, ME., 0AMP0BELL0, N. E, HALIFAX, N. S., CHARLOTTETOWN, P. E. I., And all Farts of the MARITIME PROVINCES OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA. The Favorite and Superior Sea-going Steamers of this Line, STATE OF MAINE (new). 1,500 tons. FALMOUTH, 1.200 tons. CITY OF PORTLAND, 1,100 tons, r^eave the end of Commercial Whsrf, Boston, at 8.30 a. m. and Railroad Wharf, Portland, at 6.00 p. m. for EASTPORT and ST. JOHN, with usual connections, every JkloKdAT, Wednesday, and F rid at, for the season, with more frequent trips in July, - August, and September. [See July Folder fur particulars.} The Morning and Xoon Trains of the .Eastern and Boston & Maine Railroads connect with Steamers at Portland. RETURNING, A STEAMER WIZZ JCEAVE St. John at 8.00 A. M, and Eastport at 1.00 P. M. SAME DATS. For further Information apply at the Company's and Agents« Offices, or of Clerks on board the Steamers, where THROUGH TICKETS ATTD STATEROOMS . Can be secured. COMPANY'S OFFICE, 40 EXCHANGE STREET, PORTLAND, MAINE. T. C. HERSEY, President and Manager. II. J. I.1PBT, Treasurer. CAPT. J. B. COYLE, Engineer-in-Chief. LOCAL OFFICES. BOSTON, End of Commercial Wharf; W. H. KILBY, Agent. ST. JOHN, N. B , Reed's Point Wharf; H. W. CHISHOLM, Agent. EASTPORT, ME., International Wharf; GEO. HAYES, Agent. PORTLAND, ME , Railroad Wharf; H. P. C. HERSEY, Agent. V. L. LEAVITT, Travelling Agent. 334 s INDEX. Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. European and North American 37. Grand Trunk 305. Intercolonial 70, 78. New Brunswick 49. New Brunswick and Canada 36. Barin of Minas 101. Bras d'Or, 161. Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. Eastport 25. Grand Lake 48. Halifax to Sydney 148. Labrador 224. Magdslen Islands 183. Moisic River (Labrador) 229. Newfoundland 188, 148. Northern Coastal IN. F.) 200. North Shore (N. B.J60. Pictou Branch 136. Prince Edward Island 177,180,182. Quebec and Gosford 255. Shediac Branch 59. Windsor and Annapolis 83. Passamaqnoddy Bay 25, 30. Prince Edward Island 174,175. Quebec and Gulf Ports 23S, 60. Qucbec to Cacouna 291. Richelieu (St. Lawrence) 305. Saguenay River 291, 297. St. John Rirer 39, 51, 53. St. Pierre (Mkj.) 185. Union (St. Lawrence) 305. Washademoak Lake 47. Western Ontports 213. Yarmouth and Halifax 117. Authorities Consulted in the Preparation of this Volume. The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the officers of the Boston Athenaeum, the Parliament Library at Halifax, the Colonial Library at Charlottetown, the Me- chanies' Institute at St. John, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- versity, of the Inalilui Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of Quebec. New Brunswick, with Notes for Emigrants; by Abraham Gesner, M. D. (1847.) Geology of New Brunswick, etc.; by Dr. Gesner. New Brunswick and its Scenery; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. John, 1874.) Account of New Brunswick; by Thomas Balllie. (London, 1832.) Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick; by M. H. Perley. (St. John, 1854.) Mount Desert; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) History of New Brunswick; by Cooney. Nouveau Brunswick; by E. Kegnault. (Paris.) History of Maine; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) History of Maine; by W. D. Williamson. (2 vols.; 1839 ) Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. Letters from Nova Scotia; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) Travels in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. Forest Life in Acadie; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) The Fishing Tourist; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) Acadia; or A Month among the Bluenoses; by Frederick S. Cozzcns. (New York, 1859.) The Neutral French; a Story of Nova Scotia. The Lily and the Cross; by Prof. De Mille. The Boys of Grand Pre School; by Prof. De Mille. The Clock-Maker; by Jndge T. C. Haliburton. The Old Jndge; by Jndge T. C. Haliburton. The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) Acadian Geology; by J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax. 1855.) On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia; by Dr. A. Gesner. An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L-, M. P. (2 vols.; Halifax, 1829.) History of Nova Scotia, or Acadie; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C. (3 vols.: Halifax, 1865.) A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Halifax, 1823.) Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh, 1786.) INDEX. 335 A History of the Island of Cape Breton; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., P. R. G. S. (London, 1869.) Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) Letters on Cape Breton; by Thomas Pichon. (London, 1760.) Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing; by Charles Dndley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) Prince Edward Island; by Ret. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island; by C. B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Travels in Prince Edward Island; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) A Concise History of Newfoundland; by F. II. Page. (London, 1860.) History of the Government of Newfoundland; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- don, 1793 ) Catechism of the History of Newfoundland; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) Pedley's History of Newfoundland. Anspach'a History of Newfoundland. Newfoundland in 1842; by Sir It H. Bonnycastle. (2 vols.; London, 1842.) Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Cbappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838.) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols.; London. 1842.) Geological Survey of Newfoundland for 1873; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 1874.) After Icebergs with a Painter J by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1800.) A Voyage to Labrador; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the Coast of Labrador; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. G. S. (2 vols.; London, 1863.) Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador; by George Cartwright. (3 vols.; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador: by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, VoL XXIL History and General Description of New France; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 vols.; in Shea's translation; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la Nouvelle France; by Marc Lescarbot. (1609; Paris, 1866; 3 vols.) Cours d'Histoire du Canada; by L'Abbc Ferland. Histoire de la Colonie Francaise en Canada; by M. Faillon. (3 vols.; Ville-Marie [Mon- treal), 1865 -6). History of Canada; by F. X. Garneau. (Bell's translation; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada; by John MacMuIlen. (Brockville, 1868.) Novus Orbis; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) Les Relations des Jesuits. Lower Canada; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) British Dominions in North America; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) British America; by John M'Gregor. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) La France nux Colonies; by M. llameau. (Paris, 1859.) Le Canada au Point de Vue Economique; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) Hochelaga, or England in the New World; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols.: New York. 1846.) The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols.; London, 1849.) The First English Conquest of Canada; by Heury Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) The Jesuits of North America; by Francis I'arkman. The Old Regime in Canada; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols ; Paris, 1866 ) Sketches of Celebrated Canadians; by Heury J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834.) Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 185S.) DecouverteduTombeaudeChamplain; by Laverdiere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) Maple Leaves; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 336 INDEX. Letter* snr 1'Ameriquc; by X. Marmier. (Paris.), Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec; by Prof. B. BllHman. (1820.) Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) English America; by 8. P. Day. (2-vols; London, 1864.) Three Years in Canada; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols.; London, 1829.) Western Wanderings; by W. H. G. Kingston. (2 vols.; London, 1856.) Sketches of Lower Canada; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) The Canadian Dominion; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) Five Years' Residence in the Canadas; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols.; London, 1824.) Sketches from America; by John White. (London, 1870.) Travels through the Canadas; by George He riot. (London, 1807.) British Possessions; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) Adventures in the Wilds of America; by Charles I An man. (2 vols.; Philadelphia. 1856.) Pine-Forests; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. Brof Rccitet Succincte Narration do la Navigation fajtc en MDXXXV. ct MDXXXVI. par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nadon; by Richard Hak- luyt. (1589-1600.) Les Vovages a la Nouvelle France, etc.; by Samuel de Champlaln. (1632; Paris, 1830.) . . Relation du Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Tiirreville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) Nouveaux Voyages, etc.; by the Baron La Hontan. (1703; London, 1735) Relation Originate du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de Decouverte au Canada. (Quebec, 1838.) Voyage to Canada; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763.) Six Mill<: Lieues a Toute Vapeur: by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) Greater Britain; by Sir Charles Dilke. The Hndson's Bay Company; by R. M. Ballantyne. Imray's Sailing Directions. (London ) Journal of a Voyage to the Coast of Gasp 6 ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) The Lower St. Lawrence; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Le Chercheur de Tresors; by Ph. Aubert de Gaspe" fils. (Quebec, 1863.) Chronlques Humeurs et Caprices; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873.) Les Anciens Canadiens; by Philippe Aubert de Gaspe. (Quebec, 1864.) L'Album du Touriste; by. J. M- Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) The Blockade of Quebec; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Journal of the Siege of Quebec; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1871.) '-' The Expedition against Quebec; by "A Volunteer." (Quebec, 1872.) Chateau Bigot; by J. M. Le Moine. , (Quebec, 1874.) . . t A Chance Acquaintance; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) A Yankee in Canada; by Heury D. Thoreau. (Boston, 1862.) La Literature Canadienne. (2 vols.; Quebec, 1863-4.) Soirees Canadiennes. (2 vols.;, Quebec, 1861.) r ... Travels in New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for? 1862-3, London.) Field and Forest Rambles; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America; by Sir James E.Alexander. (2 vols.; London, 1849.) Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces; by It. B. Roosevelt. (New York, 1865 ) _ Fishing tn American Waters; by Genio C. Scott. (New York.) The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) Fish and Fishing; by H. W. Herbert (" Frank Forrester "). (New York, 1850.) The Fishing Tourist; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) *' Les Muses de la Nouvelle France; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie; by Heury W. Longfellow. (Boston, 1847.) The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay; by Charles Sangster (Kingston.) Essais Poetfques; by Leon Pamphlie Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Honore Frechette. (Quebec.) The Poetical Works of O. Crcmazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. C. FLset. (Quebec.) THOS. COOK & SON, Tourist and Excursion Agents (ESTABLISHED 1841), Chief Offices . . { 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, 1 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, I LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. NEW ENGLAND OFFICE: 197 Washington Street, Boston. TOURIST AND EXCURSION TICKETS BY ALL CHIEF LINES ;' i'. TO ALL PLACES OF TOURIST RESORT NEW ENGLAND . . . : AND THE.... ... in MARITIME PROVINCES, Issued especially for Pleasure Travel, allowing breaks in the journey, and in many cases 'at . REDUCED RATES. Full particulars on application. Address as above. INDEX. 333 Scottish Migration 164. Sillery, P. Q. 281. Sorel, B. Q. 308. Strait of Belle Isle 220, Sydney, C. B. 151. Sydney Coal-Mines 153. |Tadousac, P. Q. 298, 299. Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. Trepassey, N. F. 213. Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. Truro, N. S. 81. (Ursulines of Quebec 265. Walker's Expedition 233, 241. Wallis, Admiral 100. Williams, Gen. 100. Windsor, N. S. 92. Yarmouth, N. S. 114. Index to Quotations. Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. Lanman, Charles 68. Baillie, T. 43. Le Moine, J. M. 258, 264, 280, 294. Ballantyne, R. M. 292. Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. Beecher, Henry Ward 258. London Times 257, 298, 304. Boucher 292. Longfellow, H. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. Bouchette, R. 247, 278. Lowell, R. T. S. 187. Bougainville 238. McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. Bonnycastle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. Marmier, X. 257. Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, Marshall, C. 278, 286. 166, 233. Martin, M. 154. Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. Moore, Tom 184, 320. Champlain 124, 273, 295. Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, Murdoch, B. 75, 109, 122, 155, 156. 238, 247, 289, 293, 299, 300. Noble, Rev. L. L. 30, 91, 103, 141, 160, Cozzens, F. $. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 142, 147, 166. 228. Crémazie, 0.247. Novus Orbis 125. Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 276, De Costa, B. F. 28, 29, 30. 279, 285, 288. De Mille, Prof. 105. Perley, M. H. 182. Dilke, Sir. Charles 258, 259. Rameau, M. 236, 277. Dufferin, Lord 237. Roosevelt, R. B. 66. Ferland, Abbé 232 Routhier, A, B. 252. Fiset, L. J.C. 247.' Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. Gesper, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. Sand, Maurice 186, 256. Gilpin, 'Dr. 134. Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. Gordon, Hon. Arth Shirley, Gov. 274. 62,'67. Silliman, Prof 238, Grey 247. Stedman, R. H. 170. Haliburton, Judge 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. Strauss, 231 Hallock, Charles 67, 78, 103, 126, 127, 128, Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. 129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301.' Taché 251, 299. Hamilton, 88. Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, Hardy, Capt. 129, 130, 131. 251, 282, 319. Hawkins's Quebec 256, 259, 261, 272. Taylor, Bayard 277, 291, 292, 293, 297, Heriot, George 279, 284. 304. Hind, Prof, 232, 233. Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 276, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312.' 281, 302, 303. Trudelle 292. Imray's Sailing Directions 73, 158, 169, 248. Voltaire 274. Johnston, Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. 71, 117. Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, Jukes, Prof. J. I 86, 91, 92, 95, 107, 1 Kalm 305. 165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. Kirke, Henry 245. Whitburne, Capt. 187. La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 305. White, John, 278, 298, 303. Lalemant, Père 2A9. Whittier, John G. 21, 66, 209, 224, 230. 14 INDEX. 335 A History of the Island of Cape Breton ; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., F. R. G. S. .. (London, 1869.) Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. Letters on Cape Breton; by Thomas Pichon. (London, 1760.) Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing; by Charles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) Prince Edward Island ; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island; by C. B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Travels in Prince Edward Island; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) A Concise History of Newfoundland; by F. R. Page. (London, 1860.) History of the Government of Newfoundland; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- don, 1793) Catechism of the History of Newfoundland; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) Pedley's History of Newfoundland. Anspach's History of Newfoundland. Newfoundland iu 1842; by Sir R. H. Bonnycastle. (2 vols., London, 1842.) Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond ; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838.) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols., London, 1842.) Geological Survey of Newfoundland for 1873; by Alex. Murray, F.G.S. (St. John's, 1874.) After Icebergs with a Painter; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) A Voyage to Labrador; by L'Abbé Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the coast of Labrador; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. G, S. (2 vols. ; London, 1863.) Sixteen Years' Residence on the coast of Labrador; by George Cartwright. (3 vols.; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador'; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXIL History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarboť. (1609; Paris, 1866; 3 vols.) Cours d'Histoire du Canada; by L'Abbé Ferland. Histoire de la Colonie Française en Canada; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. ; Ville-Marie (Mon- treal), 1865-6). History of Canada': by F. X. Garneau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) Novus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) . Les Relations des Jesuits. Lower Canada; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) British Dominions in North America; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) British America ; by John M'Gregor. (2 vols.; London, 1832.) La France aux Colonies ; by M. Rameau. (Paris, 1859.) Le Canada au Point de vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) Hochelaga, or England in the New World; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols.; New York, 1846.) The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) The First English Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) The Jesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. The Old Régime in Canada; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols. ; Paris, 1866.) Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan.' (Montreal, 1865.) Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec (Quebec, 1834.) Reminiscences of Quebec, (Quebec, 1858.) Découverte du Tombeau de Champlain; by Laverdière and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.), Maple Leaves; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 336 INDEX 14 Letters sur l'Amerique ; by X. Marmier. (Paris.). ja Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec; by Prof. B. Silliman. (1820.) Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.). . English America; by S. P. Day. (2-vols ; London Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols., London, 1829.) Western Wanderings; by W. H. G. Kingston. (2 vols., London, 1856.) Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) Five Years' Residence in the Canadas; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols.; London, 1824.) Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) Travels through the Canadas; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 1856.) Pine-Forests; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. Bref Recit et Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXV. et MDXXXVI. par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863) The Principai Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation; by Richard Hak- luyt. (1589-1600.) Les Vovages à la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 1830.) Relation du Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Diéreville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) Nouveaux Voyages, etc.; by the Baron La Hontan. (1103; London, 1735) - Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de Découverte au Canada. (Quebec Voyage to Canada; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763.) Six Mille Lieues à Toute Vapeur; by Maurice Sand. (Paris) Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dilke. The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. Imray's Sailing Directions. (London) Journal of a Voyage to the coast of Gaspé ; by L'Abbé Ferland. (Quebec.) The Lower St. Lawrence; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Le Chercheur de Trésorg; by Ph. Aubert de Gaspé fils. (Quebec, Chroniques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873.) Les Anciens Canadiens; by Philippe Aubert de Gaspé. (Quebec L'Album du Touriste; by.J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. . (Quebec, Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1 The Expedition against Quebec; by "A Volunteer.” Château Bigot; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1874.) A Chance Acquaintance; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) . .. . A Yankee in Canada; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, La Littérature Canadienne."! (2 vols.; Quebec, 1863- Soirées Canadiennes. (2 vols. ;Quebec, 1861.) Travels in New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for 1862-3, London.) Field and Forest Rambles; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America ; by Sir James E. Alexander. (2 vols.; London, 1849.) Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (New York, 1865 ) Fishing in American Waters ; by Genio C. Scott. (New York.) The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) Fish and Fishing ; by II. W: Herbert (“Frank Forrester ;). (New York, 1850.) The Fishing Tourist; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.). Les Muses de la Nouvelle France; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie ; by Henry W. Longfellow. (Boston, The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay ; by Charles Sangster (King Essais Poétiques ; by Léon Pamphile Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) Mes Loisirs : by Louis Honoré Fréchette. (Quebec.) The Poetical Works of 0. Crémazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. O. Fiset. (Quebec.) INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. EASTERN SEA-COAST ROUTE. OCEAN DAY ROUTE TO PORTLAND. Old-established Line of Steamers between Boston, Portland, Eastport, and St. John, N. B., With Connections to 0ALAIS, ME., 0AMP0BELL0, N. B., HALIFAX, N. S., CHARLOTTETOWN, P. E. I., And all Parts of the MARITIME PROVINCES OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA. The Favorite and Superior Sea-going Steamers of this Line, STATE OF MAINE (new). 1,500 tons. FALMOUTH, 1.200 tons. CITY OF PORTLAND, 1,100 tons, Leave the end of Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8.30 a. w. and Railroad Wharf, Portland, at 6.00 p. m. for EASTPORT and ST. JOHN, with usual connections, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for the season, with more frequent trips in July, - August, and September, [See July Folder for particulars.} The Morning and Noon Trains of the Eastern and Boston & Maine Raiiroads connect with Steamers at Portland. RETURNING, A STEAMER WIZZ LEAVE St. John at 8.00 A. M. and Eastport at 1.00 P. M. SAME DATS. For further information apply at the Company's and Agents« Offices, or of Clerks on board the Steamers, where THROUGH TICKETS AND STATEROOMS . Can be secured. COMPANY'S OFFICE, 40 EXCHANGE STREET, PORTLAND, MAINE. T. C. HERSET, President and Manager. II. J. LIBBY, Treasurer. CAPT. J. B. COTUE, Engfneer-in-Chief. LOCAL OFFICES. BOSTON, End of Commercial Wharf; W. H. KILBY, Agent. ST. JOHN, N. B , Reed's Point Wharf; H. W. CHISHOLM, Agent. EASTPORT, ME., International Wharf; GEO. HAYES, Agent PORTLAND, HE, Railroad Wharf; H. P. C. HERSEY, Agent. V. L. LEAVITT, Travelling Agent. ST. LOUIS HOTEL, St. Louis Street, QUEBEC. This Hotel, which is uurivalled for Size, Style, and Locality in Quebec, is open throughout the year for Pleasure and Business Travel. It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most delightful and fashionable promenades, the Governor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place d'Amies, and Durham and Dufferin Terrace, which furnish the splendid views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so celebrated, and which are unsurpassed in any part of the world. The proprietors, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage they have hitherto enjoyed, inform the public that the St. Louis Hotel has been thoroughly renovated and embellished, and can now accommodate about 600 visitors, and assure them that nothing will be wanting on their part that will conduce to the comfort and enjoyment of their guests. The Russell Hotel Company, WILLIS RUSSELL, President. A CHEAP AND DELIGHTFUL SUMMER TRIP. Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line. Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., STOPPING AT Halifax, Port Hawkesbury, C. B., & Pictou, N. S. The favorite sea-going Steamships CARROLL (moo tons) and WORCESTER (mo o torn) Capt. GEORGE H. BROWN, Capt. J. W. BLANKINSHIP, Leave Nickerson's Wharf, Congress St., Boston, For the above Forts, EVEKY SATURDAY, AT 12 0'0L00K. These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways apd coast-lines at Halifax and Pictou, giving opportunities to visit the chief attractions of the Maritime Provinces. At Port Hawkesbury they connect with stages for all parts of the Island of CAPE BRETON, and for the renowned and beautiful BRAS D'OR LAKES. From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prince Edward Island, by the trains of the new Government Railway. The Steamships of this Line have UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. For tickets and further information, apply to WM. H. RING, or A. DeW. SAMPSON, Nickerson's Wharf, Congress St. 801 Washington St. LEVE & ALDEN. AMERICAN TOURS. Tourist tickets for individual travellers issued to all SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS In America, embracing the MARITIME PROVINCES, SAGUENAY RIVER, : QUEBEC, MONTREAL WHITE MOUNTAINS, RANGELEY LAKES, MOUNT DESERT,.. THOUSAND ISLANDS, NIAGARA FALLS, &c., &c., By any known route and at Reductions from Ordinary Rates. Messrs. Leve & ALDEN are the General Agents for many first-class lines, and in addition issue their own tickets over a large number of railway anil steamslip routes; embracing the leading resorts and picturesque channels of travel which tourists wish to visit. The American Tourist Gazette, a handsome illustrated quarto monthly, may be had upon receipt of postage, by application in per- son, or by mail, at any of the LEVE & ALDEN offices. Messrs. LEVE & ALDEN are also the General Passenger Agents of the ALLAN LINE IN THE UNITED STATES. ; CHIEF OFFICES: 207 BROADWAY, } NEW YORK, and Uptown Office : 5 UNION SQUARE, S" 15 STATE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. NEW BOOKS OF TRAVEL. AMONG THE AZORES. By Lyman H. Weeks 1 vol., square 16mo, with 'r:r illustrations, $1.50. "The" volnm«- is made up of a series of piquant sketches of (he rich scenery and quaint life of the Azores, and is fully illustrated from photographs and original drawings." — Boston Commonwealth. SOUTH SEA SKETCHES. A Narrative. Be Mrs. Madeline Vinton Daiilgren. 1 vol.. 12ino, SI.50. 'allao, Lima, thc'i-lands and ports under tll«- shadow of the AinU-s, Valparaiso, "'tiago, and oth«-r beautiful cities of the South Seas. 'Ihe New York Commercial certtser aays: ''lite work is ol extreme interest." JAPANESE EPISODES. By Edward H. House. 1 vol., 16mo, $1.00. "The daintv little volume of ' Japanese Episodes.' . . . No man has had better opportunities of stndying the character of 'the liiitons of the Pacific ' than Us author, who was for some years the publisher of a newspaper at Tokio, ami is well known in this country as a gentleman of high literary ability. ilis excursions into ! he interior of the country have furnished material for some exquisite sketches and descriptions of scenery." — Saturday Evening Gazette. A PICKWICKIAN PILGRIMAGE. By John It. G. FIassard, 1 vol.. small 16mo, $1.00. A series of chapters on the London which Dickens celebrated, the haunts of Mr. Pickwick, Mr. Winkle, the Wellers, Mrs. (lamp, and other immortals; with excursions to Rochester ami Dorking, and a boat voyage down the river Wye, by ltoss, Monmouth, and Tin tern Abbey. "A book to be thoroughly enjoyed." — Boston Transcript. "A charming little book. — Xew York Mail. "The little tome should have a place on the book-shelf next to that which records the wanderings of Winkie and Snodgrasa."— Boston Bndget. A TRIP TO ENGLAND. 1 vol., 16mo, with full-page illustrations by Josei-h Jffferson. $2.00. "Here is England in a drop of honey; here is the poetic side of the England that lies in the American imagination. If you cannot go and see for yourself, here is a vicar who has felt truly pic. .uresquc and romantic England.and in a feu- word", with a very few suggestive t^o-hea, shows you the kind of pleasure that awaits yon in English streets and in th« English landscape." — G. W. Curtis, in Harper's Maga- zine. BRETON FOLK. An Artistic Tour in iJrittany. Uy Henry Blackrurn. With 170 illustrations by Uasdoli'H Caldecott. Small quarto. $1.50. "The author wimiered through Hrittanv in idle fashion. preferring the byways to the highways, caring more for pieiurcsqiieness of scenery, manners, customs. and dress than for the histoiv. the antiquities, the condition, or the prospects of the land. As he himself describes it. his book is " a series of sketches of a black-and- white country" under its summer aspect; of a sombre land shronded with white clonds, per.pied with peasants in dark costumes, wide white collars and caps. black- and-white cattle, and magpies." " —Meur York Evening Post. For sale by booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers, JAMES R. 0SG00D & C0., Boston. A WONDERFUL LITERARY SUCCESS. THROUGH ONE ADMINISTRATION. By Mrs. F. H. BURNETT. I vol., 12.no. $1.50. A peculiarly powerful and interesting story of modern life and political in- trigues in Washington, full of dramatic intensity and vivid portraiture. The sales of this romance of our republican court-ciriles have been astonishing. THE LED-HORSE CLAIM. By MARY HALLCCK FOOTE. I vol., 161o, illustrated by the author. $125. "The most vigorous romance of mining life that has been written since Bret Harte's stories." -. leto Turk Il'orld. “Mrs. Foote's first novel has raised her to a level on which she is only to be compared with our best women novelists. To make this comparison brietis, Vliss Woolson observes keenly, “Miss Burnett writes charmingly, and Mrs. Fuote feels intensely.'"- The Critic THE GENTLE SAVAGE. By Evward King. 1200. $2.00. “Permeated by a delightful combination of the romantic and realistic elements.” – The Academy (London). THE SIEGE OF LONDON. By HENRY JAMES, JR. Three stories in one volume. 12mo. $1.50. “ Full of cleverness, and provokes comparisoin with some of the best things of Thackeray." - New York Star. “I don't recall a work of fiction for the last year that seems so absolutely indispensable for one to read as this collection. These stories are representative of Mr. James in his best, his most brilliant, and most suggestive work. The fascination of Mr. James is as illusive as light, and as ali-pervading." -Si Louis Globe-Democrat. DOCTOR GRIMSHAWE'S SECRET. By NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE. Edited by Julian Hawthorne. 1 vol., 12mo, 380 pages. $1.50. “And here, out of a trunk of old papers, such as he loved to have in his stories, comes a romance of his own, tingling with all the old Hawthorne mystery, rich with all the old - we must call it old – Hawthorne imagination, grim with the Hawthorne uncanniness, and touched all over with the old sweetness of Hawthorne." ~ New York Herald. A MODERN INSTANCE. By W. D. Howells. 514 pages. $1.50. “Worthy of a place bes.de some of the finest of George Eliot's creations." - The Scotsman (Edinburgh). “Since Uncle Tom's Cabin there has appeared no American work of fiction of greater power to affect public sentiment." - Century Magazine. A REVEREND IDOL. A novel. I vol., 12mo. $1.50. “A capital novel, fresh, bright, and interesting. It is undeniably clever, and some of the best things that have lately been written about women, ministers, art, and various social questions may be found in its pages. Its roguery is irre. isistible." - Literary World. JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. -— - - - - A WONDERFUL LITERARY SUCCESS. THROUGH ONE ADMINISTRATION. By Mrs. F. H. BURNETT. 1 vol., 12mo. $1.50. A peculiarly powerful and interesting story of modern life and political in. trigues in Washington, full of dramatic intensity and vivid portraiture. The sales of this romance of our republican court-circles havi been astonishing. THE LED-HORSE CLAIM. By Mary HaLLCCK FOOTE. 1 vol., 16mo, illustrated by the author. $125. "The most vigorous romuice of mining lite that has been written since Bret Harte's stories." - temu Jork Ilorld. “Mrs. Foote's first novel has raised her to a level on which she is only to be compared with our best women novelists. To make this comparison brietly, Viss Woolson observes keenly, Miss Burnett writes charmingly, and Mrs. Foote feels intensely.?” - The Critie. THE GENTLE SAVAGE. By Evwarn King. 12mo. $2.00. “Permeated by a delightful combination of the romantic and realistic elements.” – The Academy (London). THE SIEGE OF LONDON. By HENRY JAMES, JR. Three stories in one volume. 12mo. $1.50. “ Full of cleverness, and provokes compar svi with some of the best things of Thackeray." - New York Star. "I don't recall a work of fiction for the last year that seems so absolutely indispensable for one to read as this collection. These stories are representative of Mr. James in his best, his most brilliant, and most suggestive work. The fascination of Mr. James is as illusive as light, and as ali-pervading." -Si Louis Globe-Democrat. DOCTOR GRIMSHAWE'S SECRET. By NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE. Edited by Julian Hawthorne. 1 vol., 12mo, 380 pages. $1.50.. "And here, out of a trunk of old papers, such as he loved to have in his stories, comes a romance of his own, tingling with all ihe old Hawthorne mystery, rich with all the old - we must call it old- Hawthorne imagination, grim with the Hawthorne uncanniness, and touched all over with the old sweetness of Hawthorne." New York Herald. A MODERN INSTANCE. By W. D. HOWELLS. 514 pages. S1.50. "Worthy of a place beside some of the finest of George Eliot's creations." - The Scotsman (Edinburgh). “Since Uncle Tom's Cabin there has appeared 10 American work of fiction of greater power to affect public sentiment." - Century Magazine. A REVEREND IDOL. A novel. I vol., 12mo. $1.50. "A capital novel, fresh, bright, and interesting. It is undeniably clever, and some of the best things that have lately been written about women, ministers, art, and various social questions may be found in its pages. Its roguery is irre. sistible." - Literary World. JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 3 2044 020 305 827 THE BORROWER WILL BE CHARGED AN OVERDUE FEE IF THIS BOOK IS NOT RETURNED TO THE LIBRARY ON OR BEFORE THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. NON-RECEIPT OF OVERDUE NOTICES DOES NOT EXEMPT THE BORROWER FROM OVERDUE FEES. Harvard College Widener Library Cambridge, MA 02138 (617) 495-2413 T ce BREASES CA SOMOS RESERRE MASAK 3