^5 /oo&o. r■* 7
U„S/60 6 0*7*7
►

Rarfeari (College ILtorarg
/&. £b. 9b.i
crrnxtA^'
./Ajfafy 1tn.


Sºmpliºts
passenger Dºpartment
ºlº Zººlºº Rºilº & Y.
ºv. 2, 2


tº s / o o eo. 73 - 7
- /6. Kaº, /8/s.























LJOTEL BROADWATER was
) built and is owned by Col.
C. A. Broadwater, one of the
oldest, wealthiest and most
energetic and honored citizens
of Helena, Montana. This is a
beautiful structure, covering
an extensive trant of land, built
on thecottage plan, with broad
verxdas,lighted by electricity,
heated by steam, supplied with
hot and cold spring water, fur-
nished like a palace, and has
attached to it the finest private
bath houses in the world—finer
than those given by Caesar to
Rome. It is conducted as ele-
gantly, and the service is equal
to the best Eastern resorts.
This resort is three miles from
Helena, and is reached every
few minutes, both night and
day, by two electric lines.


TruPtftATURE MINERAL SPRING 160 FAHRENHEIT
TEMPERATURE COLO fiPdtNQ 50 fAHRENHtU-
HELENA.MONTANA.
Day.
Rates From ... to .'s, Per
For Descriptive Pamphlets, and Ftjkther Information, Address
ARTHUR W. CAMPBELL, Manager Hotel Broadwater, Helena, Montana.
THE NATATORIUM.
The most magnificent of its
kind in the United States. The
architect*e Moorish, it is 150
by 350 feet;100 feet to the top
of the roof, and 150 feet to the
top of the towers. The build-
ing is supported by circular
trusses, with no interior sup-
ports. It is a most imposing
struct*e; seen by d$5, and by
night as lighted by electric
lights shining through all its
colored*windows, it is in truth
an enchanted palace. The
swimming pool is 100 by 300
feet, and varies in depth from
2 to 12 feet. It is constructed
of maso,y and ceount, and a
million gallons of hot mineral
water run t.o$5h it 'ily,
and 500,000 gallons of cold
water are required daily to
temper it for bathing.



f0**
u8
t i
-)Bt
'/k5
^EJ*£wMj0jmr EM'ltyf
S. H. H. CLARK,
President and General Manager, Union Pacific Railway.



ED. DICKINSON,
Assistant General Manager, Union Pacific Railway.


THOS. L. KIMBALL,
President Union Depot Co., Omaha, Neb.



E. L. LOMAX,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Union Pacific Railway.

JOHN A. MUNROE,
General Freight Agent, Union Pacific Railway.


WILL TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT.
Any Ticket Agent in the United States or Canada can sell Tickets, check Baggage, and arrautf
for Pullman Palace Sleeping Car berths, via the Union Pacific Railway.
Do not complete your arrangements for a Western trip until you have
applied to the undersigned. Additional information, Maps,
Time Tables, etc., will be cheerfully furnished.
BOSTON, MASS.—290 Washington St.—W. S.
Condell, New England Freight and Pas-
senger Agent.
E. M. Newbeg1n, Traveling Freight and
Passenger Agent.
BUTTE, MONT.—Cor. Main and Broadway.—
E. V. Maze, General Agent.
CHATTANOOGA, TENN.—P. O. Box, 543.—
F. L. Lynde, Traveling Passenger Agent.
CHEYENNE, WTO.—C. W. Sweet, Freight and
Ticket Agent.
CHICAGO, ILL.—191 S.Clark St.—W.H.Kn1ght,
Gen'l Agent Freight and Passenger Dep'ts.
T. W. Young, Traveling Passenger Agent.
D. W. Johnston, Traveling Passenger Agent.
W. T. Holly, City Passenger Agent.
CINCINNATI, OHIO.—27 West Fourth St.—J.D.
Welsh, General Agent Freight and Pas-
senger Departments.
A. G. Shearman, Traveling Freight and Pas-
senger Agent.
T. C. H1rst, Traveling Passenger Agent.
COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA.—
A. J. Manderson, Gen'l Agent, U.P.Transfer.
R. W. Chamberla1n, Passenger Agent.
J. W. Maynard, Ticket Agent.
J. C M1tchell, City Ticket Agent, 421 B'way.
1IEXVKR, COL.—1703 Larimer St.—Geo. Ady,
General Agent.
C. H. T1tus, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E. G. Patterson, City Ticket Agent.
F. G. Erb, City Passenger Agent.
E. F. Lackner, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
DES MOINES, IOWA.—218 Fourth St.—E. M.
Ford, Traveling Passenger Agent.
FT. WORTH, TEX.—D. B. Keeler, General
Freight & Pass. Agent, Ft. Worth & D. C. Ry.
A. J. Ratcl1ffe, Traveling Passenger Agent.
N. S. Dav1s, City Ticket Agent, 401 Main St.
HELENA, MONT.—28 North Main St.—H. O.
W1lson, Freight and Passenger Agent.
KANSAS CITY, MO.—1038 Union Ave.—J. B.
Frawley, General Agent.
J. B. Reese, Traveling Passenger Agent.
H. K. Proudf1t, City Passenger Agent.
T. A. Shaw, Ticket Agent.
C. A.Wh1tt1er, Citv T1cket Agent, 1000 Main
Street.
A. W. Mh.lspaugh, Ticket Ag't, Union Depot.
LONDON, ENGLAND —Ludgate Circus.—Thos.
Cook & Son, European Passenger Agents.
LOS ANGELES, CAL.-229 South Spring St.—
G. F. Herr, Passenger Agent.
NEW ORLEANS, LA 158 Common Street.—
F. B. Aglar, General Agent.
NEW WHATCOM, WASH.—J. W. Alton, Ticket
Agent.
NEW YOBK CITY.—287 Broadway.—R. Ten-
broeck, General Eastern Agent.
J. D. Tenbroeck, Traveling Passenger Agent.
S. A. Hutch1son, Traveling Passenger Agent.
WM. A. Dolan, Traveling Passenger Agent.
J. F. W1ley, City Passenger Agent.
OGDKN, UTAH.—Union Depot.—C. A. Henry,
Ticket Agent.
OLYMPIA, WASH Percival's Wharf.—J. C
Peuc1val, Ticket Agent.
OMAHA, NEB.—1302 Farnam St.—Harry P.
Deuel, City Ticket Agent.
Geo. J. Buck1ngham, City Passenger Agent.
Frank N. Prophet, Traveling Passenger
Agent, 9th and Farnam Streets.
J. K. Chambers, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
PITTSBURGH, PA.—400 Wood St.—S.C. M1l-
bourne, Traveling Passenger Agent.
PORTLAND, ORE.—54 Washington St.—W. H.
Hurlburt, Assistant General Pass'r Agent.
Geo. H. H1ll, Traveling Passenger Agent.
V. A. Sch1ll1ng, City Ticket Agent.
A. J. Goodr1ch, City*Passenger Agent.
A. L. Maxwell,Ticket Agent, Grand Central
Station.
PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.-Union Wharf. -
H. L. T1bbals, Ticket Agent.
PUEBLO, COL.—233 North Union Ave.—A. S.
Cuthbertson, General Agent.
ST. JOSEPH, MO.—Chamber of Commerce.—
S. M. Ads1t, General Freight and Passenger
Agent, St. J. & G. I. R. R.
F. P. Wade. City Ticket Agent, Corner 3d
and Francis Sts.
Jo. Hansen, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
ST. LOUIS, MO.—213 N. 4th St.—J. F. Aglar,
Gen' 1 Agent Freight and Pass. Departments.
N. Ha1ght, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E. R. Tutt1.e, Travel1ng Passenger Agent.
E. A.W1ll1ams, City Freight and Passenger
Agent.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 201 Main St.—D. E.
Burley, General Agent.
D. S. Taggart, Traveling Passenger Agent.
C. P. Canf1eld, Traveling Passenger Agent
L. J. Keyes, City Ticket Agent.
W. S. Evans, City Passenger Agent.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.—1 Montgomery St.—
D. W. H1tchcock, General Agent.
Ma1.one Joyce, Traveling Passenger Agent.
W. R. V1ce, Pacific Coast Passenger Agent.
J. F. Fugaz1, Emigrant Agent, 19 Montgom-
ery Ave.
SEATTLE,WASH.—705 Second St.—A. C. Mar-
t1n, General Agent.
SIOUX CITY, IOWA.—503 Fourth St.—D. M.
Coll1ns, General Agent.
Geo. E. Abbott, Tr'g Fr't and Pass'r Agent.
H. H. B1rdsall. City Ticket Agent.
Geo. Ledyard, City Passenger Agent.
Geo. F.Wheelock, Ticket Ag't, Union Depot.
SPOKANE, WASH.—Cor. Riverside and Wash-
ington.—Perry- Gr1ff1n, Passenger and
Ticket Agent.
TACOMA,WASH.—91
General Agent.
Pacific Ave.—E.E.Ell1s,
VICTORIA, B. C. —100 Government St.—R.
Hall, Ticket Agent.
E. L. LOMAX,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent,
J. N. BROWN,
Acting Assistant Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent,
OIMLA.II.A., "TSriEJlB.


No. I.
0
CROFUTT'S
OVERLAND
GUIDE.
CONSISTING OF OVER
Six Thousand Miles of Main Tours,
AND
THREE THOUSAND MILES OF SIDE TOURS.
ALSO
SIX THOUSAND MILES BY STAGE AND WATER
DESCRIPTIVE-ILLUSTRATED.
33y Geo. A. Crofutt,
AUTHOR OF OVERLAND AND COLORADO DESCRIPTIVE TOURISTS' BOOKS,
"ROUND UP," ETC.
CHAS. E. WARE, Publ1sher,
SAINT LOUIS.
1892.
SOLD WHOLESALE AND RETAIL BY
Barkalow Bros., Railway News Agents, Omaha, Neb.; and at their Branch
Offices, No. 59 Van Buren St., Chicag0; Kansas City, Mo.; and at the
Union Depots in Denver, Cheyenne, Ogden, and Portland,
Ore.; comprising the Union Pacific, Oregon Rail-
way & Navigation, and the Denver,
Ft. Worth & Texas systems.
El1 S. Den1son, General News Agent, Oakland P1er, Sacramento, and Los
Angeles, California, and Portland, Oregon; comprising the
entire Pacific system of the Southern Pacific Co.
Ra1lroad News Co., General News Agents, Chicago, Kansas City, and Los
Angeles, California; comprising the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe,
"Burlington," and the Chicago, Rock Island &
Pacific complete systems.
Gunlock & Dunn, General News Agents,Chicag0; Chicago & North-Western Ry.
Entered according to the Act of CongreBB 1n the year 1892, by Chas. E. Ware, in the Off1ce of the
L1brarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. I


H°WvfsjT PftMTORNIft-.
50 VISIT CALIFORNIA is one thing; to make the trip in a way to
secure the greatest pleasure, comfort and instruction is another.
Of course everybody intends to go to California; and, with a
radiant picture of great trees, and lofty waterfalls, and orange
groves, and wine and raisin vineyards, in his imagination, he thinks
first of go1ng, leaving the manner of going for after-consideration. He
will likely reflect that a great stretch of uninhabited country separates
the land of gold from the State of his residence, and that he has nothing
to take into account but the closing of his eyes to all that might lie
between, and buy tickets for California. Among the Southern Pacific
Company's routes to California the traveler may make a choice; and if he
goes to California without having taken all things into account, he has not
exercised that care which ordinary caution suggests.
This is the favorite old Central Pacific, running from Ogden to San
Francisco, and, with its connecting lines, constituting the shortest route
from central and northern points. This line will always hold its popular-
ity. It brings the traveler through some of the most interesting territory
in the United States, including the land of the Mormons, Salt Lake and its
vast fertile basin, the valley of the Humboldt, along the old overland trail,
through the valleys of Nevada, and over the Sierra Nevada to California.
The scenery of these mountains is of surpassing grandeur, and their his-
torical associations of the greatest interest. After descending from the
snowclad heights of the summit the train drops down into the famous old
region where the first gold operations in California were conducted. At
Auburn the orange groves, giving promise of the wealth of beauties which
California holds, are encountered, and soon thereafter come the plains of
the Sacramento, covered with orchards and vineyards and great grain
fields; then the capital of California—the delightful city of Sacramento;
and after that, Oakland and San Francisco.
This runs from Portland, Oregon, to San Francisco, connecting at the
Portland end with several great trans-continental lines which reach every
town of the Eastern States. For interesting scenery, this is the favorite
line into California. Running southward into California, it passes through
the garden regions of Oregon, including the Willamette, the Umpqua and
the Rogue river valleys, and enters California, after crossing the Siskiyou
mountains, over a road which shows the finest railroad engineering and
the grandest scenery in the Far West. After the Siskiyous, come the
Sierra Nevada, with Mt. Shasta as the keystone of the northern end. This
noble mountain, standing solitary, rears its summit 14,442 feet high. For
nearly a whole day this splendid spectacle is kept in sight as the train
drops down the canyons of the Sacramento to the plains of California, and
it is brought into fine relief by the many other and quieter features of the
scenery which these mountains afford. The road runs through Sacra-
mento and enters San Francisco.
Any desired information concerning these routes will be furnished
by any of the following agents of the Southern Pacific Company:
T. H. GOODMAN, General Passenger Agent, San Francisco, Cal.
W C. WATSON, General Passenger Agent, New Orleans, La.
E. HAWLEY. Ass'l Gen'l Traffic Manager, 343 Broadway, New York.
W. G. NEIMYER, Gen'l Western Agt., 204 Clark St , Chicago, III.


MX. HOI.Y CROSS.

mount of holy CROSS.— See page .


GENERAL INDEX.
PORTRAIT.
Page.
Brigham Young 152
SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS.
Gardner Spring, National Park 21
Pony Express 30
Bee Hive Geyser, Yellowstone 36
Capital of Colorado 48
Cattle Brand 49
The Loop, surface 68
Our Singing Birds 93
View in Yellowstone Valley 124
Pulpit Rock, Utah 144
Witches'"" 147
One Thousand Mile Tree 147
Mormon Temple 156
"Tabernacle 156
"Assembly Building 156
"Co-Op. S1gn 158
Terraced Springs, Water Pockets.... 180
Giantess Geyser 186
Old Faithful, Yellowstone 191
Packers Going to the Mountains 205
Castle Geyser >
Fire Basin } 2o9
My Dear Deer 212
Horse Tail Fall 247
Bridal Veil Fall 245
Islands in the Columbia 25s
Pillars of Hercules 278
Page.
Maxwell Branch 101
Manitou "96
Pan Handle "107
Colorado Central "59-98
Echo & Park City "145
O. S. L. &U. & N.Branch 138-181
Salt Lake.
Frisco
Utah & Nevada
Tintic
Montana
Montana Union
Wood River
Idaho Central...
Walla Walla
Moscow
Dayton
Pampa
Winona
Mullan
Heppner
Wallula
•154
..161
..156
.165
..185
.194
..200
..210
•223
..229
..225
..228
..228
..232
•239
-238
Page.
Puget Sound 261-266-268-269
San Francisco 251
Alaska 252-269
ILLUSTRATIONS.
LARGE DOUBLE PAGE VIEWS.
NO. I.
Falls of the Yellowstone.
Great railroad " Loop."
f Shoshone Falls.
\ Lateourell Falls.
f Multnomah Falls.
\ Rooster Rock.
Cape Horn, Columbia River.
Columbia River by Moonlight.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
Frontispiece.
Street View in Denver 42
Hanging Rock, Clear Creek Canon.. 55
Green Lake, Colorado 66
South Park, from Kenosha Hill 72
Alpine Tunnel, approach..! 78
Breckenridge Pass 83
Mount Holy Cross 5
Boulder Canon, Colorado 90
Falls and Cliffs, Yellowstone 129
Young Mormon Bishops 140
Devil's Slide, Weber Canon 149
Garfield Beach, bathing 173
Yellowstone Lake 189
American Falls and Bridge 199
Palisades of the Columbia 280
UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
Page.
U. P. Main Line 12-17-119-123
O. & R. V. Branch 22-25-26
Denver Short Line Branch 29-33
Cheyenne & Northern" 120
Kansas Pacific " 37
Leavenworth " 39
Narrow Gauge " 39
Manhattan " 41
Junction City " 43
Solomon "43
Lincoln ".„ 44
Salinas "44
Colby "44
Denver Pacific " 33-117
Marshall & Boulder" 89
Sunset "91
South Park ";.69-81
Keystone " 84
Boulder Valley " 9r
Denver, Texas & Ft. Worth Branch 94
Franceville "100
Victor "100
Grey's Creek "100
WATER LINES.
Page.
Snake River 227
Columbia—to Dalles 244-276
"to Astoria 253
Willamette 252 I
LAKES.
Page.
Hot 220
Yellowstone 190
Swan 180
Bear ,...182
Utah 169
Great Salt 154
Page.
Como 128
Cooper 128
Crystal 127
Coeur D'Alene 232
Twin 76
Page.
Cottonwood 75
Grand 67
Elk 67
Clear 66
Green 65


GENERAL INDEX-co«i
MISCELLANEOUS.
Page.
Past and Present n
Equipments 14
Stock—Feeding 23
"Raising 46
Cattle—Range 48
"Round-up 49
Colorado—Generally 53
"Climate.
"Irrigation.
'• Products.
"Minerals.
"Mining.
"Scenery.
"Parks 56-110
"Snowy Range 56-110
"Wages Paid 57-58
"Un1versity 91
The Mirage Phenomenon 47
Baggage—Sleepers—Lunch 18
Br1dge over M1ssouri River 19
O'Fallons Bluffs 27
Indian Train Wreckers 27
White "Robbers 29-184
Overland Pony Express 30
The Rockies 32-53
Wood, $210 per cord 33
Sheridan Powerless 35
Old "Cut-off " Wagon Road 35
A Little History 38-283
Agricultural College, Kansas 40-41
B1jr Hunt, Duke Alexis 4-
Ch1vingston's Fight 47
Kenosha Hill, Colorado 71
"Salted" to Death 74
Alpine Tunnel 79
California Gulch 86
Pike's Peak 99-100
Garden of the Gods 100
Boulder Cation 91
EstesPark, etc 92
The Ames Bros.' Monument 123
Winters at Sherman 124
Dale Creek Bridge 125
Laramie Plains 126
Indian Reservations 132, 185, 221, 231
Bear River Riot, Vigilantes 141
Powell's Early Explorations 137
Echo Canon, Pulp1t Rock 142-143
Witches' Rocks, 1,000-Mile Tree 147
Devil's Slide 147
Grand Views 148, 162, 210, 232
Utah Territory—Generally 152
'* " Farm Products.
"" Minerals.
"" Climate.
"" Fruit.
Salt.
"" Wages Paid.
"" Mormon Towns 161
"" Devil Names 167
"" Salt Lake 154
"" Mormon Villages 178
Little and Big Cottonwoods 163-164
Snow Sheds—"Peanuts" 163-164
American Fork Canon 166
Grand Amphitheatre 168, 238, 282
Fish and Frog Culture 169
Volcanic Water Marks 177
College Farm, Logan Temple...178-179
Yellowstone Park 188
Montana—Generally 191
"Mines.
•GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS.
Page.
Fort Omaha 20
"Sidney 30
"Sedgwick 33
"Morgan 34
"Riley 41
"Harker 44
"Hays 45
"Wallace 46
"Denver 70
"D. A. Russell 119
Page.
Montana Indians.
"Live Stock.
'' Valleys.
"Population.
Wealth.
'' Agriculture.
"College 197
"Mammoth Works M96
Snake River Lava Beds 198
Wood River Valley, Camas Prairic.201
Alturas County, Idaho 202
Ada "" 214
Washington" 215
Boise "" 213
NezPerces"" 227
Latah "" 230
Shoshone and Twin Falls 206
Great Canal Enterprise 210
Boise Basin and Vicinity 213
Snake River Canon 216
Grande Ronde Valley 218
Walla Walla" 224
Umatilla County, Oregon 222
Up the Snake to Lewiston 227
Spokane Falls and Vicinity 236
Upper Palisades ofthe Columbia 238
Fluming Wheat 241
Pluto's Caldron 241
Best View of Mt. Hood 242
The Lock, Cascades 246
Fisheries 748, 265, 271
Pillars of Hercules 248
Rooster Rock 248
Oregon and Portland 251
*' "Educational.
""Counties.
11 "Schools, etc.
""Statistics.
""Meteorological.
""Railroads, Busi-
ness.
""Industries.
""Wool Clip, etc.
Down the Columbia River 253
Salmon Canning 253
Clatsop County, Oregon 254
Pierce County, W. T 261
Puget Sound 261-271
Navy Yard 263
Smelting Works 261-266
Steelworks 265
Big Lumber Cut 264
Trusts, Strikes 267
State of Washington— Generally 251
""The Sound.
""Lands.
""Minerals.
11 "Lumber.
""Banking.
""Fish.
""Indians.
41 y Climate.
""Agricultural.
""Coal.
""Wages.
""Chinook Wind.
Peculiar Mounds 275
The Columbia Scenery 278
Cape Horn 279
Castle Rock 281
Catching Fish by Water-power 2R1
Page.
Fort Laramie 121
"Fred Steele 131
"Washakie.... 132
"Bridger 139
"Douglas 158
"Walla Walla 225
"Townsend 268
Camp Pilot Butte 135
Boise Barracks 212
Vancouver Barracks 277


LlOTEL BROADWATER was
} built and is owned by Col.
C. A. Broadwater, one of the
oldest, wealthiest and most
energetic and honored citizens
of Helena, Montana. This is a
beautiful structure, covering
on extensive trect'f land, built
on the cottage plan, with broad
verandas, lighted by electricity,
heated by steam, supplied with
hot and cold spring water, fur-
nished like a palace, and has
attached to it the finest private
bath houses in the world—finer
than those given by Caesar to
Rome. It is conducted as ele-
gantly, and the service is equal
to the best Eastern resorts.
This resort is three miles from
Helena, and is reached every
few minutes, both night and
day, by two electric lines.

Temperature mineral spring 160 cahbehheit
Temperature cold spa■e so .Fahrenheit.
HELENA.MONTANA.
Day.
Rates From ... to .'s, Per
Fob Descriptive Pamphlets, and Further Information, Address
ARTHUR W. CAMPBELL, Manager Hotel Broadwater, Helena, Montana.
THE NATATORIUM.
The most magnificent of its
kind in the United States. The
architecture Moorish, it is 150
by 350 feet;100 feet to the top
of the roof, and 150 feet to the
top of the towers. The build-
ing is supported by circular
trusses, with no interior sup-
ports. It is a most imposing
struct*e;seen by day, and by
night as lighted by electric
lights shining through all its
colored'windows, it is in truth
an enchanted palace. The
swimming pool is 100 by 300
feet, and varies in depth from
2 to 12 feet. It is constructed
of maso,y and ceecnt, and a
million gallons of hot mineral
water run through $ 'i',
and 500.000 gallons of cold
water are required daily to
temper it for bathing.



S. H. H. CLARK,
President and General Manager, Union Pacific Railway.



ED. DICKINSON,
Assistant General Manager, Union Pacific Railway.

THOS. L. KIMBALL,
President Union Depot Co., Omaha, Neb.



E. L. LOMAX,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Union Pacific Railway.

JOHN A. MUNROE,
General Freight Agent, Union Pacific Railway.


WILL TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT.
Any Ticket Agent in the United States or Canada can sell Tickets, check Baggage, and arrange
for Pullman Palace Sleeping Car berths,
via the Union Pacific Railway.
Do not complete your arrangements for a Western trip until you have
applied to the undersigned. Additional information, Maps,
Time Tables, etc., will be cheerfully furnished.
-
BOSTON, MASS.–290 Washington, St.—W. S.
CONDELL, New England Freight and Pas-
Senger Agent.
E. M. NEwBEGIN, Traveling Freight and
Passenger Agent.
BUTTE, MONT.—Cor. Main and Broadway.—
E. W. MAZE, General Agent.
CHATTAN006A, TENN.—P. O. Box, 543.—
F. L. LYNDE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
CHEYENNE, WYO.—C. W. Sweet, Freight and
Ticket Ågent.
CHICAGO, ILL.—191S.Clark St.—W.H.KNIGHT,
Gen'l Agent Freight and Passenger Dep’ts.
T. W. YoUNG, º Passenger Agent.
D. W. Joh NSTON, Traveling Passenger Agent.
W. T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent.
CINCINNATI, OHIO.—27 West Fourth St.-J. D.
WELSH, General Agent Freight and Pas-
senger Departments.
A. G. S.HEARMAN, Traveling Freight and Pas-
senger Agent.
T. C. HIRST, Traveling Passenger Agent.
COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOW.A.—
A. J. MANDERSON, Gen'l Agent, U.P. Transfer.
R. W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent.
J. W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent.
J. C. MITCHELL, City Ticket Agent, 421 B'way.
DENVER, COL.—1703 Larimer St.—GEo. ADY,
General Agent.
C. H. Titus, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E. G. PATTERSON, City Ticket Agent.
F. G. ERB, City Passenger Agent.
E. F. LACKNER, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
DES MOINES, IOWA.—218 Fourth St.—E. M.
FORD, Traveling Passenger Agent.
FT. WORTH, TEX.-D. B. KEELER, General
Freight & Pass. Agent, Ft. Worth & D. C. Ry.
A. J. RATCLIFFE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
N. S. DAvis, City Ticket Agent, 401 Main St.
HELENA, MONT.—28 North Main St.—H. O.
WILSON, Freight and Passenger Agent.
KANSAS CITY, M0.—1038 Union Ave.—J. B.
FRAw LEY, General Agent.
J. B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
H. K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent.
T. A. SHAw, Ticket Agent.
cºrrº, City Ticket Agent, 1000 Main
Street.
A. W. MILLsPAUGH, Ticket Ag't, Union Depot.
LONDON, ENGLAND –Ludgate Circus.--THos.
Cook & SON, European Passenger Agents.
LOS ANGELES, CAL.—229 South Spring St.—
G. F. HERR, Passenger Agent.
NEW ORLEANS, LA.—158 Common Street.—
F. B. AGLAR, General Agent.
NEW WHATCOM, WASH.-J. W. ALTON, Ticket
Agent.
NEW YORK CITY. —287 Broadway.—R. TEN-
BROECK, General Eastern Agent.
J. D. TENBROECK, Traveling Passenger Agent.
S. A. HUTCH ISON, Traveling Passenger Agent.
WM. A. DoI.AN, Traveling Passenger Agent.
J. F. WILEY, City Passenger Agent.
06, DEN, UTAH.—Union Depot.—C. A. HENRY,
Ticket Agent.
OLYMPIA, WASH.-Percival's Wharf. —J. C.
PERCIVAL, Ticket Agent.
OMAHA, NEB.-1302 Farnam St.—HARRY P.
DEUEL, City Ticket Agent.
GEO. J. BUCKINGHAM, City Passenger Agent.
FRANK N. PROPHET, Traveling Passenger
Agent, 9th and Farnam Streets.
J. K. CHAMBERs, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
PITTSBURGH, PA.—400 Wood St.—S. C. MIL-
BOURNE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
PORTLAND, ORE.-54 Washington St.—W. H.
HURLBURT, Assistant General Pass'r Agent.
GEO. H. HILL, Traveling Passenger Agent.
V. A. SCHILLING, City Ticket Agent.
A. J. GOODRICH, City Passenger Agent.
A. L. MAXWELL, Ticket Agent, Grand Central
Station.
PORT TOWNSEND, WASH. —Union Wharf.-
H. L. TIBBALS, Ticket Agent.
PUEBI,0, COL.—233 North Union Ave.—A. S.
CUTHBERTSON, General Agent.
ST. JOSEPH, MO. —Chamber of Commerce.—
S. M. ADSIT, General Freight and Passenger
Agent, St. J. & G. I. R. R.
F. P. WADE. City Ticket Agent, Corner 3d
and Francis Sts.
Jo. HANSEN, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
ST. LOUIS, MO. —213 N. 4th St.—J. F. AGLAR,
Gen'l Agent Freight and Pass. Departments.
N. HAIGHT, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E. R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E. A.WILLIAMS, City Freight and Passenger
Agent.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH.—201 Main St.—D. E.
BURLEY, General Agent.
D. S. TAGGART, Traveling Passenger Agent.
C. P. CAN FIELD, Traveling Passenger Agent
L. J. KEYES, City Ticket Agent. -
W. S. EVANs, City Passenger Agent.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.—-1 Montgomery St.—
D. W. HITCHCOCK, General Agent.
MALONE JOY CE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
W. R. VICE, Pacific Coast Passenger Agent.
J. F. FuGAZI, Emigrant Agent, 19 Montgom-
ery Ave.
SEATTLE, WASH.-705 Second St.—A. C. MAR-
TIN, General Agent.
SIOUX CITY, IOWA.—503 Fourth St.—D. M.
COLLINS, General Agent.
GEO. E. ABBOTT, Tr'g Fr’t and Pass'r Agent.
H. H. BIRDSALL, City Ticket Agent.
GEO. LEDYARD, City Passenger Agent.
GEO. F.WHEELOCK, Ticket Ag’t, Union Depot.
SPOKANE, WASH.—Cor. Riverside and Wash-
ington.—PERRY GRIFFIN, Passenger and
Ticket Agent.
TACOMA,WASH.-903 Pacific Ave.—E.E.ELLIs,
General Agent.
WICTORIA. B. C. — 100 Government St.—R.
HALI., ºrigiºt Agent.
E. L. LOMAX,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent,
J. N. BROWN,
Acting Assistant Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent,
CIMAIHC.A., INTEE-


No. I.
o
CROFUTT'S
OVERLAND
GUIDE.
CONSISTING OP OVER
Six Thousand Miles of Main Tours,
AND
THREE THOUSAND MILES OF SIDE TOURS.
SIX THOUSAND MILES BY STAGE AND WATER
DESCRIPTIVE-ILLUSTRATED.
net ''*''
By Geo. A. Crofutt,
AUTHOR OF OVERLAND AND COLORADO DESCRIPTIVE TOURISTS' BOOKS,
"ROUND up," etc.
CHAS. E. WARE, Publ1sher,
SAINT LOUIS.
1892.
SOLD WHOLESALE AND RETAIL BY
Barkalow Bros., Railway News Agents, Omaha, Neb.; and at their Branch
Offices, No. 59 Van Buren St., Ch1cag0; Kansas City, Mo.; and at the
Union Depots in Denver, Cheyenne, Ogden, and Portland,
Ore.; comprising the Union Pacific, Oregon Rail-
way & Navigation, and the Denver,
Ft. Worth & Texas systems.
En S. Den1son, General News Agent, Oakland P1er, Sacramento, and Los
Angeles, California, and Portland, Oregon; comprising the
entire Pacific system of the Southern Pacific Co.
Ra1lroad News Co., General News Agents, Chicago, Kansas City, and Los
Angeles, California; comprising the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe,
"Burlington," and the Chicago, Rock Island &
Pacific complete systems.
Gunlock & Dunn, General News Agents,Chicag0; Chicago & North-Western Ry.
Entered according to the Act of Congress in the year IS92, by Chas. E. Ware, in the Office of the
L1brarian of Congress, at Washington, D C.


t fow 1
vjsjt r'ftLIFORNIft.
%.

v.y
50 VISIT CALIFORNIA is one thing; to make the trip In a way to
secure the greatest pleasure, comfort and instruction is another.
Of course everybody intends to go to California; and, with a
radiant picture of great trees, and lofty waterfalls, and orange
groves, and wine and raisin vineyards, in his Imagination, he thinks
first of go1ng, leaving the manner of going for after-consideration. He
will likely reflect that a great stretch of uninhabited country separates
the land of gold from the State of his residence, and that he has nothing
to take into account but the closing of his eyes to all that might lie
between, and buy tickets for California. Among the Southern Pacific
Company's routes to California the traveler may make a choice; and if he
goes to California without having taken all things into account, he has not
exercised that care which ordinary caution suggests.
THS oaDQi routs-
This is the favorite old Central Pacific, running from Ogden to San
Francisco, and, with its connecting lines, constituting the shortest route
from central and northern points. This line will always hold its popular-
ity. It brings the traveler through some of the most interesting territory
in the United States, including the land of the Mormons, Salt Lake and its
vast fertile basin, the valley of the Humboldt, along the old overland trail,
through the valleys of Nevada, and over the Sierra Nevada to California.
The scenery of these mountains is of surpassing grandeur, and their his-
torical associations of the greatest interest. After descending from the
snowclad heights of the summit the train drops down into the famous old
region where the first gold operations in California were conducted. At
Auburn the orange groves, giving promise of the wealth of beauties wh1ch
California holds, are encountered, and soon thereafter come the plains of
the Sacramento, covered with orchards and vineyards and great grain
fields; then the capital of California—the delightful city of Sacramento;
and after that, Oakland and San Francisco.
THs swr*\ routs-
This runs from Portland, Oregon, to San Francisco, connecting at the
Portland end with several great trans-continental lines which reach every
town of the Eastern States. For interesting scenery, this is the favorite
line into California. Running southward into California, it passes through
the garden regions of Oregon, including the Willamette, the Umpqua and
the Rogue river valleys, and enters California, after crossing the Siskiyou
mountains, over a road which shows the finest railroad engineering and
the grandest scenery in the Far West. After the Siskiyous, come the
Sierra Nevada, with Mt. Shasta as the keystone of the northern end. This
noble mountain, standing solitary, rears its summit 14,442 feet high. For
nearly a whole day this splendid spectacle is kept in sight as the train
drops down the canyons of the Sacramento to the plains of California, and
it is brought into fine relief by the many other and quieter features of the
scenery which these mountains afford. The road runs through Sacra-
mento and enters San Francisco.
Any desired information concerning these routes will be furnished
by any of the following agents of the Southern Pacific Company:
T. H. GOODMAN, General Passenger Agent, San Francisco, Cal.
W C. WATSON, General Passenger Agent, New Orleans, La.
E. HAWLEY, Ass'tGen'l Traffic Manager, 343 Broadway, New York.
W. G. NEIMYER, Gen'l Western Agt., 204 Clark St , Chicago, III.


MT. HOLY CROSS.
MoUNT OF Holy cross.-See page 85


GENERAL INDEX.
PORTRAIT.
Page.
Brigham Young 152
SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS.
Gardner Spring, National Park 21
Pony Express 30
Bee Hive Geyser, Yellowstone 36
Capital of Colorado 48
Cattle Brand 49
The Loop, surface 68
Our Singing Birds 93
View in Yellowstone Valley 124
Pulpit Rock, Utah 144
Witches'"" 147
One Thousand Mile Tree 147
Mormon Temple 156
"Tabernacle 156
"Assembly Building 156
"Co-Op. S1gn 158
Terraced Springs, Water Pockets....180
Giantess Geyser 186
Old Faithful, Yellowstone 191
Packers Going to the Mountains.....205
Castle Geyser \
Fire Basin | 209
My Dear Deer 212
Horse Tail Fall 247
Bridal Veil Fall 245
Islands in the Columbia 255
Pillars of Hercules 278
Page.
Maxwell Branch 101
Manitou "96
Pan Handle "107
Colorado Central "59-98
Echo & Park City "145
O. S. L. & U. & N.Branch 138-181
Salt Lake.
Frisco
Utah & Nevada
Tintic
Montana
Montana Union
Wood River
Idaho Central...
Walla Walla
Moscow
Dayton
Pampa
Winona
Mullan
Heppner
Wallula
•154
..161
-156
..165
..185
.194
..200
..210
..223
..229
..225
..228
..228
..2;, 2
..239
-238
Page.
Puget Sound 261-266-268-269
San Francisco 251
Alaska 252-269
ILLUSTRATIONS.
LARGE DOUBLE PAGE VIEWS.
No. 1. Falls of the Yellowstone.
Great railroad " Loop."
f Shoshone Falls.
I Lateourell Falls.
f Multnomah Falls.
\ Rooster Rock.
Cape Horn, Columbia River.
Columbia River by Moonlight.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
Frontispiece.
Street View in Denver 42
Hanging Rock, Clear Creek Canon.. 55
Green Lake, Colorado 66
South Park, from Kenosha Hill 72
Alpine Tunnel, approach.„ 78
Breckenridge Pass 83
Mount Holy Cross 5
Boulder Canon, Colorado 90
Falls and Cliffs, Yellowstone 129
Young Mormon Bishops 140
Devil's Slide, Weber Canon 149
Garfield Beach, bathing 173
Yellowstone Lake 189
American Falls and Bridge 199
Palisades of the Columbia 280
UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
Page.
U. P. Main Line 12-17-119-123
O. & R. V. Branch 22-25-26
Denver Short Line Branch 29-33
Cheyenne & Northern" 120
Kansas Pacific " 37;
Leavenworth " 39
NarrowGauge " 39
Manhattan " 41
Junction City " 43
Solomon "43
Lincoln "44
Salinas "44
Colby "44
Denver Pacific " 33-n7
Marshall & Boulder" 89
Sunset "91
South Park ":.6o-81
Keystone " 84
Boulder Valley " 91
Denver, Texas & Ft. Worth Branch 94
Franceville "100
Victor "100
Grey's Creek "100
WATER LINES.
Page.
Snake River 227
Columbia—to Dalles 244-276
"to Astoria 253
Willamette „ 252
LAKES.
Page.
Hot 220
Yellowstone 190
Swan 180
Bear L..182
Utah 169
Great Salt 154
Page.
Como 128
Cooper 128
Crystal 127
Coeur D'Alene 232
Twin 76
Page.
Cottonwood 75
Grand 67
Elk 67
Clear 66
Green 65


GENERAL INDEX
—CONTINUED.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Page.
Past and Present n
Equipments 14
Stock—Feeding- 23
"Raising 46
Cattle—Range 48
"Round-up 49
Colorado—Generally 53
"Climate.
"Irrigation.
"Products.
"Minerals.
"Mining.
"Scenery.
"Parks 56-110
"Snowy Range 56-110
"Wages Paid 57-58
"Un1versity 91
The Mirage Phenomenon 47
Baggage—Sleepers—Lunch 18
Br1dge over M1ssouri River 19
O'Fallons Bluffs 27
Indian Train Wreckers 27
White "Robbers 29-184
Overland Pony Express 30
The Rockies 32-53
Wood, $210 per cord 33
Sheridan Powerless 35
Old "Cut-off " Wagon Road 35
A Little History 38-283
Agricultural College, Kansas 40-41
Big Hunt, Duke Alexis 4-
Ch1vingston's Fight 47
Kenosha Hill, Colorado 71
"Salted" to Death 74
Alpine Tunnel 79
California Gulch 86
Pike's Peak 99-100
Garden of the Gods 100
Boulder Canon 91
EstesPark, etc 92
The Ames Bros.' Monument 123
Winters at Sherman 124
Dale Creek Bridge 125
Laramie Plains 126
Indian Reservations 132, 185, 221, 231
Bear River Riot, Vigilantes 141
Powell's Early Explorations 137
Echo Canon, Pulp1t Rock 142-143
Witches' Rocks, 1,000-Mite Tree 147
Devil's Slide 14?
Grand Views 148, 162, 210, 232
Utah Territory—Generally...., 152
"" Farm Products.
"" Minerals.
"" Climate.
"" Fruit.
Salt.
"" Wages Paid.
"'* Mormon Towns 161
"" Devil Names 167
"" Salt Lake 154
"" Mormon Villages 178
Little and Big Cottonwoods 163-164
Snow Sheds—"Peanuts" 163-164
American Fork Canon 166
Grand Amphitheatre 168, 238, 282
Fish and Frog Culture 169
Volcanic Water Marks 177
College Farm, Logan Temple... 178-179
Yellowstone Park 188
Montana—Generally 191
Mines.
Page.
Montana Ind1ans.
"Live Stock.
"Valleys.
"Population.
"Wealth.
"Agriculture.
"College 197
"Mammoth Works :. 196
Snake River Lava Beds 198
Wood River Valley, Camas Prairie..201
Alturas County, Idaho 202
Ada "" 214
Washington" 215
Boise "" 213
NezPerces"" 227
Latah "" 230
Shoshone and Twin Falls 206
Great Canal Enterprise 210
Boise Basin and Vicinity 213
Snake River Canon 216
Grande Ronde Valley 218
Walla Walla" 224
Umatilla County, Oregon 222
Up the Snake to Lewiston 227
Spokane Falls and Vicinity 236
Upper Palisades ofthe Columbia 238
Fluming Wheat 241
Pluto's Caldron 241
Best View of Mt. Hood 242
The Lock, Cascades 246
Fisheries 748, 265, 271
Pillars of Hercules 248
Rooster Rock 248
Oregon and Portland 251
'* Educational.
""Counties.
""Schools, etc.
""Statistics.
""Meteorological.
'* "Railroads, Busi-
ness.
11 "Industries.
""Wool Clip, etc.
Down the Columbia River 253
Salmon Canning 253
Clatsop County, Oregon 254
Pierce County, W. T 261
Puget Sound '. 261-271
Navy Yard 263
Smelting Works 261-266
Steelworks 265
Big Lumber Cut 264
Trusts, Strikes 267
State of Washington—Generally 251
""The Sound.
""Lands.
""Minerals.
""Lumber.
""Banking.
Fish.
""Indians.
"'/ Climate.
""Agricultural.
""Coal.
""Wages.
""Chinook Wind.
Peculiar Mounds 275
The Columbia Scenery 278
Cape Horn 279
Castle Rock 281
Catching Fish by Water-power 2^1
GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS.
Page.
Fort Omaha 20
"Sidney 30
"Sedgwick 33
11 Morgan 34
"Riley 41
"Harker 44
"Hays 45
"Wallace 46
"Denver 70
"D. A. Russell ny
Page.
Fort Laramie 121
"Fred Steele 131
"Washakie 132
"Bridger 139
"Douglas 158
"Walla Walla 225
"Townsend 268
Camp Pilot Butte 135
Boise Barracks 212
Vancouver Barracks 277


GENERAL INDEX
SI OK TOURS AND DETOURS.
Page.
IN COLORADO.
Tour 1 59
"2 69
"3 82
"4 89
Detour 76
IN WYOMING.
Tours I20
IN UTAH.
Tour 6 145
"7 161
"8 172
"9 176
Detours 162
"165
166
MOUNTAINS, PEAKS AND PASSES.

Page.
The Rockies 32-53
The Cascades 268-281
The Olympia.....* 243-268
The Sheep 84
The Elk 130
Noted Peaks 257
Spanish" 101
Sierra Grande Peak 104
Emery" 104
Fisher's" 102
Simpson's" 102
Gray's" 69
Torrey's" 69
LaPlata" 67
Long's." 92
Pike's" 99-100
Capulin" 104
Buffalo Head" 104
Various Peaks 71-85-190
Mt. Blanca 56
"Holy Cross 85
"Hood 242
"Bross 74
"Lincoln 74
"Antero 77
RIVERS.
Page.
Elkhorn 22
Platte 23
Loup Fork 25
North Platte -6-131
Kansas 37
Solomon 43
Smoky Hill 41
Republican 41
Arkansas 75
Gunnison 80
Blue 84
Ten Mile 84
Grand 88
Roaring Fork 87
Boulder 89
Big Thompson 92
Cache-a-la-Poudre 92-93
Laramie 122-125
Little Laramie 128
Medicine Bow 129
Popo Agie 132
Green 137
Black's Fork 138
Bear 141
Las Animas 102
Cimmeron 103
Canadian 106
SPRINGS, ETC.
Page.
Sharon 46
Idaho 63
Hot Sulphur 67
Cottonwood 75
Hortense 77
Glen wood 88
Manitou 98
Warm—Salt Lake City 160
-CONTINUED.
Page.
IN IDAHO AND MONTANA.
Tour 10 185
"II ..200
"12 206
"13 2IO
IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON.
Tour 14 223
"15 238
'16 253
"17 269
"18 276
Detours 225
"226
"227
"229
"232
Page.
Mt. Princeton 77
"Shavano 77
"Harvard 75
"Yale 75
"Elbert 76
"Fletcher 84
"Buckskin 85
"Nebo 170
11 Aspinwall .. 170
"Tacoma ^259
"Rainier 249-253-259
"Adams 249-253
11 St. Helens 249-253
"Baker 267
Passes—Fremont's 85
"Alpine 79
"Breckenridge 82
"Lake Creek 76
"Cheyenne ..120
"Sherman 123
"Continental 133
"Aspen 139
"Three Tetons 187
"Stepto Butte 231
Page.
Red 108
Wichita 1n
Weber 145-146
Jordan 160
Sevier 171
Logan 178
Ross Fork 185
Snake 187-226
Deer Lodge 195
Payette 215
Weiser 215
Powder 217
Walla Walla 223
Trouchet 225-239
Ham's Fork 181
Port Neuf. 184
Palouse 229
Spokane 236
Umatilla 221
Columbia 237-278
John Days 241
De Chutes 242
Hood 246
Sandy 248
Willamette 249-253
Cowlitz 257
Chehalis 258
Page.
Hot—Ogden 176
Soda 182
Warm—Montana 196
Hailey—Hot 203
Guyer 205
Hot—Boise ..213
Hot—Oregon 220
Silver 257



GENERAL INDEX
—CONTINUED.
STEAITinU LlNES.
Page.
ToLewistown 227
"Astoria 253
"San Francisco 251
"Alaska 269
"The Dalles 276
Page.
To Whatcom 266
"Port Townsend 268
"Victoria, B. C 268
"Olympia 269
"Seattle 261
ClTlES, TO WIN5 S, STATlONS.
Page.
Abilene 43
Adair 103
Adams 223
Albana 250
Albion 25
Alma 74
Alpine 77
Alpine Tunnel 79
Alps 103
Alta 163
Alto 226
Altus 121
Alvord 113
American Falls 198
American Fork 166
Amorillo 106
Anaconda 195
Arapahoe 46
Archer -- 32
Argo 59
Arl1ngton 240
Armstrong 39
Arvada 59
Aspen, Colo 87
Aspen, Wyo... 139
Astoria 254
Baldwin 81
• Baker City 217
Beatrice 22-41
Beaver Brook 60
Beaver Canon 188
Beloit •- 43
Berthoud 9*
Belleville 43
Bellevue 111-202
Bellingham 266
Bierstadt 96
Big Springs 29
Biggs 242
Bingham Junction 162
Bismark Grove 39
Bitter Creek 134
Black Buttes 134
Blackfoot 185
Black Hawk 62
Blalock's. 240
Bliss 208
Boelus 26
Boise City 211
Bolles Junction 225
Bolter Summit 166
Bonneville 248
Bordeaux 121
Boreas 82
Boulder 89
Bountiful 156
Bowie 112
Breckenridge 82
Bridal Veil 248
Brighton 117
Brookville 44
Bryan 138
Bucoda 259
Buena Vista 75
Buford.., 123
Burk ...234
Butte City 194
Caldwell 214
Camas , 188
Carbon 130
Carter 139
Carroll's 257
Cascade Locks 246
Castle Rock Utah 143
Castle Rock Wash 257
Page.
Castleton 81
Cataled 233
Cedar Fort 165
Cedar Point 50
Cedar Rapids 25
Centerville (Oregon) 223
Central City, Neb 25
Central City, Col 62
Centralia 258
Centreville 155
Chambers 172
Chatcolet 232
Cheyenne 119
Cheyenne Wells 47
Chehalis 258
Chihuahua 84
Childress 108
Chuckanut 266
Chugwater 121
Church Buttes 138
Clarendon 107
Claude 107
Clay Centre, Neb 22
Clay Centre, Kan 39
Clayton ; 105
Climax 85
Clyde 43
Coalville 145
Colby 44
Colfax 229
Colilo 242
Collinston 177
Colorado City 98
Colorado Springs 96
Columbus 25
Como 73
Concordia 43
Cooper Lake 228
Cottonwood 61
Creston 133
Cucharas 1o1
Dana 131
David City „.. 22
Dayton 225
Decatur 113
Deer Lodge 196
Denver 50-51
Deuel 34
Devil's Gate 150
Dewey % 177
Diamond 229
Dickey 84
Dillon, Colo 84
Dillon, Mont 193
Dome Rock 71
Draper 164
Eagle Rock 187
East Portland 250
Easton 96
Eaton 118
Echo 237
Echo City 143
Edson 131
Elbert 95
Elberton 230
Elizabeth 95
Etkhorn 22
Ellis 45
Ellsworth 44
El Moro 102
Emery Gap 103
Empire City.... 65
Endicott 229
Esquimau, B. C 269
Estabrook Park 71
Page.
Eureka 166
Evans 117
Evanston 142
Fairbury 22-26
Fairfield 235
Fairfield, Neb 22-26
Fairfield, Utah 165
Fair Haven.. 266
Fairplay 73
Fairview 248
Falcon 96
Farmington, Utah....155
Farmington.Wash. ...231
First View 47
Folsom 103
Forks Creek 61
Fort Collins 92
Fort Worth 114
Fort Morgan 34
Fossil 181
Francisville 100
Franklin 179
Fremont 23
Fremont's Pass 85
Frisco 171
Garfield 230
Garfield Beach 172
Garos 73
Garrison 197
Genoa 25
Georgetown 65
Gilmore 22
Glenn's Ferry 208
Glenwood Springs 88
Golden 60
Granite 76
Grand Island... 26
Granger 138
Gran1te Canon 123
Grants 241
Graymont 69
Grayline 193
Greeley n8
Green River 135
Gunnison City 80
Hailey 202
Hampton 139
Hancock 77
Hartley 105
Hays 45
Helena 197
Henrietta n r
HilHard 140
Hill Top 74
Holton 39
Hood River 246
Honeyville 177
Horse Creek 120
Hortense 77
Hot Lake 220
Hoxie 44
Hunter 257
Huntington 216
Huntsv1lle 225
Hyde Park 179
Idaho Springs 63
Iowa Park no
Ironton, Utah 166
Ironton, Wa*h 268
Iron Mountain 121
Islay 12c
Juab 170
Julesburg 29
Junction City 41
Kalan1a -254-257 •
254-257-


10
GENERAL INDEX
-CONTINUED.
CITIKS, TOWNS, STATIONS—Continued.
Page.
Kansas City 37
Kaysville 155
Kearney 26
Kelso 257
Kenosha 71
Ketchum 204
Kimball 32
Kit Carson 47
Kokorno 84
Kuna 209
La Camas 277
La Grande 220
La Salle 35-1'7
Lake View 259
Lander 132
Laramie City 126
Latah 235
Lawrence 39
Lawrenceburg 43
Lawrence Junction... 39
Leadville 85
Leavenworth 39
Leduc 201
Lehi 166
Lehi Junction ...165
Levan 170
Lewiston 227
Lincoln 22-41
Lindsborg 44
Linwood 39
Littleton 70
Logan 178
London 73
Longmont 91
Loup City 26
Loveland 92
Lower Cascades 282
Lupton.. 117
Manitou 98
Manitou Junction 96
Manhattan 41-22
Market Lake 187
Marysville 22-26-41
Maxwell 237
McCammon 180
McCool Junction 22
McGees 75
McPherson 44
Medicine Bow 130
Melrose 193
Melvin 94
Mendon 178
Milford 171
Millbrook 44
Milton 223
Minidoka 200
Minneapolis 43
Mirage 47
Mona 170
Monida 199
Montezuma 84
Montpelier 182
Morr1son 70
Moscow 230
Mountain Home 208
Mt. Carbon 81
Mullan 234
Multonomah 248
Nampa 209
JNapavine 258
Nathrop 77
Nephi 170
New Cambria 43
Norfork 25
North Platte City 27
North Powder 218
Nutria 181
Oakley 46
Oasis 171
Oconee 25
O' Fallon 27
Page.
Ogallala 28
Ogden 150-151
Ogdensburg 41
Ohio City 80
Old's Ferry 216
Olympia 270
Omaha 19
Ontario 214
Ord. 26
Osburn 234
Otto 123
Oxford 180
Palouse Junction 228
Pan Handle City 107
Papillion 22
Park City 145
Parker's 95
Payette 215
Payson 169
Pendleton 221
Piedmont 139
Picabo 201
Pine Bluffs 32
Pitkin 80
Platte Canon 70
Platteville 117
Pleasant Grove 168
Pleasant Valley 217
Pocatello 185
Point of Rocks 134
Pomeroy 226
Port Blakely 264
Port Discovery 268
Port Hadlock 268
Port Townsend 268
Portland 249
Preston 179
Provo 168
Pueblo 101
Pullman 229
(J nana h 109
Rawlins 132
Red Buttes 125
Red Desert 134
Red Rock ...192
Richmond 178
Riparia 226
Robinson 84
Rock Creek 128
Rockford 235
Rock Springs 134
Romley 77
Rooster Rock 248-279
Russell 44
Saint Helen's 258
Salina.....*. 44
Salt Lake City 157
Salt Wells 134
San Francisco 251
Sandy 164
Santaquin 170
Saratoga 131
Schuyler 25
Schwanders 75
Scotia 26
Seatco 259
Seattle 262
Sehotne 267
Seltice 231
Separation 133
Sharon Springs 46
Sherman 123
Shoshone 200
Sidney 30
Silver Bow 194
Silver City 166
Silver Plume 68
Soda Springs 180
Solomon 43
Spanish Fork 169
Page.
Spokane Falls 236
Springfield 179
Springhill 192
Springville 169
Squally Hook 241
State Line 39
Sterling 33
Stockton 175
Stromsburg 22
St. Elmo 77
St. Mary's 40
St. Paul 26
Summit 178
Summerville 220
Sunset 11a
Sutton 22
Table Rock 134
Tacoma 260
Tascosa 106
Teachout 51
Tekoa 231
Telocaset 218
Tenino 259
Texline 105
The Dalles 243
The Transfer 17
Tikura 201
Tintic 166
Tooele 175
Topeka 40
Trouchet 239
Troutdale 248
Trinidad 102
Tumwater 275
Twin Lakes 76
Uintah 150
Umatilla 237
Union 219
Upper Cascades 282
Uva 122
Valley 22
Valley Falls 39
Valparaiso 26
Vancouver 276
Vernon 109
Victoria, Kan 45
Victoria, B. C 269
Wahoo 22
Wa-Keeney 45
Waldo 44
Walkersville 195
Wallace 46-234
Walla Walla 224
Wallula 239
Wamego 40
Wardner 233
Warm Springs 196
Wasatch 163
Washburn 107
Washougal 277
Watesburg 225
Weatherby 217
Weber 148
Weir 29
Weiser 215
Wendover 122
West Seattle 265
Weston 223
Whatcom 267
Wheatland 122
Wheeler 84
Wichita Falls 110
Willows 240
Willows Junction 239
Winlock 258
Winship 145
Wolcott 131
Wyandotte 38
Yelm Prairie 259
Zurich 44


11
THE PRST- HND PRESENT.
It is in the memory of the writer when Ohio and Michigan were
away out west; when stages arrived in New York regularly every
day from Boston, "weather permitting," and leaving as regularly for
Philadelphia and the west. Buffalo and Pittsburgh were then the
frontier towns. From the former two steamboats left, once a week,
and a stage-wagon from Pittsburgh for the "Northwestern Terri-
tory," now Ohio and Michigan.
The entire white population residing west of the two cities
above named numbered less than 25,000 and they were mostly
hunters,- trappers, and fur-traders, or refugees from justice in the
east.
The popular clamor in those days in the east for the settlement
of the west found voice in a universal invitation as follows:
"Come from every nation,
Come from every way
Our lands they are broad enough
So don't be alarmed,
For Uncle Sam is rich enough
To give us all a farm."
They came, and from every nation—even from China, India and
Japan. They came as the winds come when forests are rended.
They came as the waves come when navies are stranded.
In 1849 Illinois was the extreme frontier. The gold discoveries
in California were circulated in the east about that time and tens of
thousands of adventurous men started by water around "Cape
Horn," 20,000 miles, for this new El Dorado. Others, more ven-
turesome pressed Into service horses, mules and cattle and many
varieties of conveyances, and boldly struck out towards the setting
sun, across the then almost unknown trackless deserts and path-
less mountains; many there were who started with hand-carts,
propelling them themselves.
Again, there were others who started on foot with only what
they could pack on their backs, trusting to luck to get through to
the gold fields.
In 1855 Ohio, Indiana. Michigan and Illinois were supposed to
contain the wheat-growing soil of the Union, and they became
known as the "granaries of the states." At that time the extreme
western limit of railroad travel was at East St. Louis and Rock
Island, both in the state of Illinois.
Then the "far west"—that almost mythical region—was what
now constitutes those vast and fertile prairies which lie south and
west of the great lakes and east of and bordering the Mississippi
river; all beyond was a blank, or popularly thought to be a
"howling wilderness," inhabited only by Indians, wild nomads,
and all the dangers of the inferno.
About this date our hardy pioneers passed the "Rubicon" and
the west receded before their advance; Missouri was peopled and
the Father of Waters became the natural highway of a mighty
commerce.


12 AWAKE! PROGRESS—AWAKE!
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Iowa had
joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It
traversed the Rocky mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon.
But it passed by not unheeding the rich valleys and broad prairies
of Nebraska and Kansas, which retained what became, with sub-
sequent additions, a permanent and thriving population.
In 1858-9 the gold discoveries in the "Pike's Peak country,"
now Colorado, caused another great rush "from every nation,"
and the population of California had increased to that extent, when
it was added to the number comprising the great American Union;
Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, and Kansas and Nebraska
on the east, followed, and still the roads westward from the Mis-
souri river were thronged with emigrants going west. They "came
from every nation," etc.
Congress Aets—The extraordinary developments in Califor-
nia and Oregon prompted many far-seeing men in congress to
advocate the building of a railroad across the continent.
At that date Iowa and Missouri were the recognized frontier.
Notwithstanding that Benton, Clarke and others had long urged
the necessity and practicability of a railroad from the Missouri
river to the Pacific coast, pointing out the wealth and power which
would accrue to the country from its realization; the idea found
favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the
knowledge that even the loyal state of California was in danger of
being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the
leaders of the great rebellion; that a rebel force was forming in
Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign
and domestic machinations threatened the dismemberment of the
Union its three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face
could our national solons see the practicability of the scheme so
earnestly advocated by Sargent, of California, and his able coadju-
tors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion the govern-
ment had little to offer for successful defense.
Then, the building of the Pacific railroad across the continent
became a great national necessity, and the charter was granted for
the construction of the
Union Paeifie Railroad—The building of this road was
inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever
known; for, without the pressure of the rebellion, the road would
probably have remained in embryo for many years.
Notwithstanding almost numberless insurmountable difficulties
—financially and otherwise—the road was completed May 10th,
1869. Then
All was ehanged—The magnificent trains of the Union Pa-
cific railroad rolled across the continent filled with emigrants and
pleasure seekers through that region which only a few years be-
fore was but a dim, undefined mythical expanse, supposed to be
valueless for any purpose. How great the change from the ideal
to the real, as this book will show. For over 300 miles after leav-
ing Omaha and Kansas City, that vague "great American desert"
proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can
be found elsewhere under like geographical position.
- • In this last decade the railroads from the east extended their
lines westward to the Missouri river, and a full score soon adver-
tised to making "close connections" with the pioneer overland.


MARCH ON! MARCH ON! 13
The Missouri Pacific was the first to reach the Missouri river at
Kansas City, where it arrived October 1st, 1865. The Chicago &
North-Western came next, to Council Bluffs, January 17th, 1867.
The Central Pacific was the first to commence work on the
trans-continental line at Sacramento, February 22d, 1863. Next
came the Kansas Pacific [now of the Union Pacific system] Septem-
ber 1st, 1863, and the Union Pacific commenced November 5th,
1865.
From 1869 to 1889, twenty years records a progress the most
marvelous in the world's history.
To-day—the superb coaches and palaces of this pioneer rail-
road line, crossing the continent, are equipped in the most complete
manner for speed, safety and comfort, and the trains roll across the
plains and over the mountains to meet the far-off foam-crested
waves of the Pacific ocean, which bear on their bosoms a mighty
and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the
Sandwich Islands, South America, and the famed Orient are at
our doors. Also the marvelous wealth of our own west and north-
west coast—California, Oregon, Washington and the rich Alaska
and Puget Sound country.
Three rich, powerful, populous and progressive states have
arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missionaries among
the savages were the only works of civilization; Colorado, too,
j oined the sisterh ood, later foil owedby Dakota, Montana, Washington
Wyoming, and Idaho, leaving Utah, New Mexico and Arizona, to say
nothing of Alaska, waiting the time, when they, too, shall add their
names to the roll of honor and enter the union on an equality with
the others,towhich,inpointof population andwealth,they have long
been entitled. Thus we see that the "far west" of to-day has become
far removed from the west of three decades ago, and what is now
the central portion of our great commonwealth was then the far,
far west.
Bfow—all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys
and on the broad plains, are the homes, well cultivated fields, pro-
lific orchards and vineyards, and countless flocKS and herds of
unnumbered thousand of hardy and brave pioneer settlers; they
"came from every nation," etc. At the same time the towering
mountains, once the home of the skulking savage and wild beast,
the deep gulches and gloomy canons are illuminated with the
perpetual fires of hundreds of smelting furnaces; the ring of pick,
shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all
tell of the presence of the miner; and the streams of wealth which
are daily loading great railroad trains and flowing into our
national coffers are marvelous and continually increasing, for just
in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, so does his
country partake of his fortune.
When we published our first trans-continental book, September
1, 1869, the Missouri river was the recognized frontier line. It
was there all travelers for the great unknown, toward the setting
sun, congregated; it was there they bid good-bye to friends, or
mailed their parting lines, many times with fearful misgivings for
the future.
In 1869, we secured a list of the equipments of the Union
Pacific railroad. To contrast that date with the first, '20 years,
we reproduce the figures, adding those for 1889.


14
1869—1889.
EQUIPMENT FOR 1869.
Locomotives 149
Pullman sleepers 22
Passenger cars 64
""second class 13
Mail and express cars 32
Caboose
Baggage
Box
Flat
Hand
Dump
Coal
Bridge
Gravel
Derrick
Wrecking
Rubble
Cook
Powder
Water tank
Pay
Officer's
President's
1,885
- 1,472
264
• 47
. 231
Total equipment..
EQUIPMENT FOR I889.
Locomotives, standard gauge 541
"narrow guage 143
Snow plows 36
Flangers 19
Pullman sleepers 55
Coaches 198
Officers' cars 11
Pay" 2
Chair" 5
Footings 923
Baggage cars 85
Ma1l cars 22
Express cars 15
Coach and baggage combined 23
Baggage, mailand express comb'd 25
Baggage and mail combined 12
Baggage and express combined... 11
Excursion coaches 14
Excursion and emigrant sleepers 89
Coal hopper and dump cars 307
Fruit
Caboose
Hand
Box
"fast freight
"refrigerator
"furn1ture-
Flat
Coal
Stock
Stock—combination
Outfit
Derrick
Wrecking tool
Pile driver
Water and tank
Plow and scraper
Construction flat
Steam shovel
3-'5
- 297
• 560
- 7,823
■ 392
.. 403
- 749
• 1,294
. 3,621
-1.435
.. 131
22
14
.. 16
9
■ 65
. 16
- 23
Total equipment 18.780
Equipment, 1869 4.347
The increase of equipment 14.433
Total number of employes 16,500
We append the following curious item of information obtained
through the courtesy of Mr. A. Traynor, Gen'l Baggage Agent of
the Union Pacific railway.
"General Baggage Off1ce, "I
"Counc1l Bluffs, Iowa, March 19th, 1891. /
Statement of the business of the baggage department for years
1886 to 1890, inclusive—five years.
YEAR.
nO. PIECES.
EXCESSBAGGAGE.
LOSS AnD
DAMAGE.
RECEIVED FROM SALE
UnCLAIMED.
1886
1887
1888
1889
1890
1,793,646
$ 93,184.90
101,661.42
93,496.01
105,236.08
164,096.02
$ 60.00
$ 53'-1o
2,049.249
'.873,16s
1,828,832
3,002,670
1o.543.s62
402.47
6,929.20
12,849.92
14,530.07
727.32
528.95
387.08
i.5"-55
Total
$557.674-43
$34,771.66
$3,686.00
Average per year of the total value of baggage handled, esti-
timated at $150.00 per piece, $316,306,860.00.
Civilization has literally rolled across the continent. "Came
from every nation, came from everyway," converting what was for
ages supposed to be a wilderness into the most productive country.
There is no longer any "desert," the mountains have been
tunnelled or scaled, the plains have been spanned by various lines
of railroad, the tide of emigration has reached the Pacific coast.
New York is within four days and Europe within ten days of
Puget sound.
The manufacturing enterprise of the east has invaded the far
west; factories are springing up in her cities and towns, and her
vast mineral, lumber and f1shery resources are being developed to
a marvelous extent. Mines of gold and silver, producing $10,000,-
000 a year; of copper, $5,200,000 a year; saw-mills, sawing 517,000
feet of lumber a day; hop crops, valued at $1,500 per acre; wheat,


PAST—PRESENT.
15
140 bushels to the acre; barley, 65 bushels to the acre; four and a
half tons of timothy to tjie acre, apples weighing 44 ounces, and
wild strawberries eight inches in circumference, are among the
productions of this ''desert'' country. A country where they catch
fish by water power, rolling them into their big canneries in great
streams, shipping hundreds of tons fresh, and 5,000,000 of cans
annually. Where vast bodies of water fall sheer 2,000 feet, and
in others shoot upwards, boiling hot, over 200 feet, where moun-
tains elevate their peaks, snow-cappped, nearly 15,000 feet, and fear-
ful chasms yawn to an unfathomable depth.
In 1864 no railroad had reached the Missouri river frontier line,
and the entire commerce of the Missouri valley and beyond was
carried on by steam packets on the river from St. Louis, or by
"prairie schooners" across the country. The materials for building
the Union Pacific railroad all came up the Missouri river on boats,
or were hauled on wagons across the state of Iowa for hundreds of
miles. When the Union Pacific railroad was commenced, Omaha
had a population of 2,500, now 140,000; Kansas City, 3,600, now
132,000; Denver, 1/500, now 106,000; Salt Lake City, 4,500, now
45,000; Portland, 300, now 57,000, and scores of cities and towns
containing populations now of from 5,000 to 25,000 were
unknown then.
At the present time there are over 900 cities and towns west
of the old Missouri frontier line of 1860 that number their pop-
ulation from 300 to 25,000 each, which have sprung into existence
since that date.
The Pullman Palace Car Co.—Now operates this class of
service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines.
PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN
Double J Drawing
Berths. Room.
New York and Chicago fc.
New York and St. Louis
Boston and Chicago
Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City
Chicago and Denver
St. Louis and Kansas City '.
St. Louis and Omaha
Kansas City and Cheyenne
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver
Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland
C. Bluffs, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or Los Angeles
Cheyenne and Portland
Denver and Leadville
Denver and Portland
Denver and Los Angeles
Denver and San Francisco
Ogden and Butte
Ogden and Pocatello
Pocatello and Butte
$ 5.00
6.oo
5-50
2.50
6.00
2.00
2.50
4-50
3-50
4.00
8.00
8.00
950
13.00
13.00
10.00
2.00
10.00
11.00
11.00
3.50
2.00
1.50
$18.00
22.00
20.00
9.00
21.00
7.00
9.00
16.00
12.00
14.00
28.00
28.00
36.00
50.00
50.00
38.00
38.00
42.00
42.00
12.00
7.00
6.on
Pocatello and Ogden Seat
Butte and Pocatello"
1.00
T.SO
Fam1ly SLEEPERS—This railway company, for the special
accommodation of their second-class passengers, runs family sleep-
ing cars on the Pacific express daily. These cars are fitted up com-
plete with mattresses, curtains, blankets, pillows, etc., and are
under the general management of the Pullman Palace Car Co.;
they are very comfortable, and are provided with uniformed
-porters, who keep them in good order and look after the wants of
the passengers. No smoking is allowed in these cars, and none


GENERAL INDEX.
PORTRAIT.
Page.
Brigham Young 152
SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS.
Gardner Spring, National Park 21
Pony Express 30
Bee Hive Geyser, Yellowstone 36
Capital of Colorado 48
Cattle Brand 49
The Loop, surface 68
Our Singing Birds 93
View in Yellowstone Valley 124
Pulpit Rock, Utah 144
Witches'"" 147
One Thousand Mile Tree 147
Mormon Temple 156
"Tabernacle 156
"Assembly Building 156
"Co-Op. S1gn 158
Terraced Springs, Water Pockets....180
Giantess Geyser 186
Old Faithful, Yellowstone 191
Packers Going to the Mountains 205
Castle Geyser )
Fire Basin J 209
My Dear Deer 212
Horse Tail Fall 247
Bridal Veil Fall 245
Islands in the Columbia 255
Pillars of Hercules 278
Page.
Maxwell Branch 101
Manitou "96
Pan Handle "107
Colorado Central "59-98
Echo & Park City "145
O. S. L- & U. & N.Branch 138-181
Salt Lake.
Frisco
Utah & Nevada
Tintic
Montana
Montana Union
Wood River
Idaho Central...
Walla Walla
Moscow
Dayton
Pampa
Winona
Mullan
Heppner
Wallula
-154
..161
-156
.165
-185
.194
.200
..210
-223
..229
.225
..22S
..228
..232
,.239
..238
Page.
Puget Sound 261-266-268-269
San Francisco 251
Alaska 252-269
ILLUSTRATIONS.
LARGE DOUBLE PAGE VIEWS.
NO. I.
Falls of the Yellowstone.
Great railroad " Loop."
f Shoshone Falls.
1 Lateourell Falls.
f Multnomah Falls.
\ Rooster Rock.
Cape Horn, Columbia River.
Columbia River by Moonlight.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
Frontispiece.
Street View in Denver 42
Hanging Rock, Clear Creek Canon.. 55
Green Lake, Colorado 66
South Park, from Kenosha Hill 72
Alpine Tunnel, approach..^ 78
Breckenridge Pass 83
Mount Holy Cross 5
Boulder Canon, Colorado 90
Falls and Cliffs, Yellowstone 129
Young Mormon Bishops 140
Devil's Slide, Weber Canon 149
Garfield Beach, bathing 173
Yellowstone Lake 189
American Falls and Bridge 199
Palisades of the Columbia 280
UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
Page.
U. P. Main Line 12-17-119-123
O. & R. V. Branch 22-25-26
Denver Short Line Branch 29-33
Cheyenne & Northern" 120
Kansas Pacific " 37
Leavenworth " 39
NarrowGauge " 39
Manhattan " 41
Junction City " 43
Solomon "43
Lincoln "44
Salinas "44
Colby "44
Denver Pacific " 33-"7
Marshall & Boulder" 89
Sunset "91
South Park ";.69-81
Keystone " 84
Boulder Valley " 91
Denver, Texas & Ft. Worth Branch 94
France ville "100
Victor "100
Grey's Creek "100
WATER LINES.
Page.
Snake River 227
Columbia—to Dalles 244-276
"to Astoria 253
Willamette 252
Page.
Hot 220
Yellowstone 190
Swan 1So
Bear 182
Utah 169
Great Salt 154
LAKES.
Page.
Como 128
Cooper 128
Crystal 127
Coeur D'Alene 232
Twin 76
Page.
Cottonwood 75
Grand 67
Elk 67
Clear 66
Green 65


GENERAL INDEX
—CONTINUED.
MISCELLANEOUS.

Page.
Past and Present n
Equipments 14
Stock—Feeding$ 23
"Raising 46
Cattle—Range 48
"Round-up 49
Colorado—Generally 53
"Climate.
"Irrigation.
"Products.
"Minerals.
"Mining.
"Scenery.
"Parks 56-110
"Snowy Range 56-110
"Wages Paid 57-58
"University 91
The Mirage Phenomenon 47
Baggage—Sleepers—Lunch 18
Br1dge over M1ssouri River 19
O'Fallons Bluffs 27
Indian Train Wreckers 27
White "Robbers 29-184
Overland Pony Express 30
The Rockies 32-53
Wood, $21oper cord 33
Sheridan Powerless 35
Old "Cut-off " Wagon Road 35
A Little History 38-283
Agricultural College, Kansas 40-41
Bi§ Hunt, Duke Alexis 4"
Ch1vingston's Fight 47
Kenosha Hill, Colorado 71
"Salted" to Death 74
Alpine Tunnel 79
California Gulch 86
Pike's Peak 99-100
Garden of the Gods 100
Boulder Canon 91
Estes Park, etc 92
The Ames Bros.' Monument 123
Winters at Sherman 124
Dale Creek Bridge 125
Laramie Plains 126
Indian Reservations 132, 185, 221, 231
Bear River Riot, Vigilantes 141
Powell's Early Explorations 137
Echo Canon, Pulp1t Rock 142-143
Witches' Rocks, 1,000-Mile Tree 147
Devil's Slide 147
Grand Views 148, 162, 210, 232
Utah Territory—Generally 152
"" Farm Products.
"" Minerals.
"" Climate.
"" Fruit.
Salt.
"" Wages Paid.
"" Mormon Towns 161
"" Devil Names 167
"" Salt Lake 154
"" Mormon Villages 17S
Little and Big Cottonwoods 163-164
Snow Sheds—"Peanuts" 163-164
American Fork Canon 166
Grand Amphitheatre 168, 238, 282
Fish and Frog Culture 169
Volcanic Water Marks 177
College Farm, Logan Temple...178-179
Yellowstone Park 188
Montana—Generally 191
"Mines.
Page.
Montana Ind1ans.
"Live Stock.
"Valleys.
"Population.
Wealth.
"Agriculture.
"College 197
"Mammoth Works M96.
Snake River Lava Beds 198
Wood River Valley, Camas Prairie..201
Alturas County, Idaho 202
Ada "" 214
Washington" 215
Boise "" 213
Nez Perces"" 227
Latah "" 230
Shoshone and Twin Falls 206
Great Canal Enterprise 210
Boise Basin and Vicinity 213
Snake River Canon 216
Grande Ronde Valley 218
Walla Walla" 224
Umatilla County, Oregon 222
Up the Snake to Lewiston 227
Spokane Falls and Vicinity 236
Upper Palisades ofthe Columbia 238
Fluming Wheat 241
Pluto's Caldron 241
Best View of Mt. Hood 242
The Lock, Cascades 246
Fisheries 748, 265, 271
Pillars of Hercules 248
Rooster Rock 248
Oregon and Portland 251
"Educational.
""Counties.
""Schools, etc.
""Statistics.
"'' Meteorological.
"'' Railroads, Busi-
ness.
""Industries.
Wool Clip, etc.
Down the Columbia River 253
Salmon Canning 253
Clatsop County, Oregon 254
Pierce County, W. T 261
Puget Sound '. 26i-271
Navy Yard 263
Smelting Works 261-266
Steelworks 265
Big Lumber Cut 264
Trusts, Strikes 267
State of Washington—Generally 251
""The Sound.
""Lands.
""Minerals.
""Lumber.
""Banking.
Fish.
"Indians.
"V Climate.
""Agricultural.
""Coal.
""Wages.
""Chinook Wind.
Peculiar Mounds 275
The Columbia Scenery 278
Cape Horn 279
Castle Rock 281
Catching Fish by Water-power 2«1
GOVKRNUKM' FORTS AND CAMPS.
Page.
Fort Omaha 20
"Sidney 30
"Sedgwick 33
"Morgan 34
11 Riley 41
"Harker 44
"Hays 45
"Wallace 46
"Denver 70
"D. A. Russell 119
Page.
Fort Laramie 121
"Fred Steele 131
"Washakie.... 132
"Bridger 139
"Douglas 158
'' Walla Walla 225
"Townsend 268
Camp Pilot Butte 135
Boise Barracks 212
Vancouver Barracks 277


GENERAL INDEX
—CONTINUED.
SIDE TOURS AND DETOURS.
Tour 1..
IN COLORADO.
Page.
Detour 76
IN WYOMING.
Tour 5 120
IN UTAH.
Tour 6 145
"7 161
"8 172
"9 176
Detours 162
"165
166
Page.
IN IDAHO AND MONTANA.
Tour 10 185
"II 200
"12 206
"13 210
IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON.
Tour 14 223
;; 15 238
, 16 253
* 17 269
"18 276
Detours 225
"226
"227
"229
"232
MOUNTAINS, PEAKS AND PASSES.
Page.
The Rockies 32-53
The Cascades 268-281
The Olympia.....* 243-268
The Sheep 84
The Elk 130
Noted Peaks 257
Spanish" 101
S1erra Grande Peak 104
Emery" 104
Fisher's" 102
Simpson's" 102
Gray's" 69
Torrey's" 69
LaPlata" 67
Long's." 92
Pike's" 99-100
Capulin" 104
Buffalo Head" 104
Various Peaks 71-85-190
Mt. Blanca 56
"Holy Cross 85
"Hood 242
"Bross 74
"Iviucoln 74
"Antero 77
Page.
Mt. Princeton 77
"Shavano 77
"Harvard 75
"Yale 75
M Elbert 76
"Fletcher 84
"Buckskin 85
"Nebo 170
"Aspinwall 170
"Tacoma 259
"Rainier 249-253-259
"Adams 249-253
"St. Helens 249-253
"Baker 267
Passes—Fremont's 85
'* Alpine 79
"Breckenridge 82
"Lake Creek 76
"Cheyenne .120
"Sherman 123
"Continental 133
"Aspen 139
"Three Tetons 187
"Stepto Butte 231
RIVERS.
Page.
Elkhorn i 22
Platte 23
Loup Fork 25
North Platte ^6-131
Kansas 37
Solomon 43
Smoky Hill 41
Republican 41
Arkansas 75
Gunnison 80
Blue 84
Ten Mile 84
Grand 88
Roaring Fork 87
Boulder 89
Big Thompson 92
Cache-a-la-Poudre 92-93
Laramie ...122-125
Little Laramie 128
Medicine Bow 129
Popo Agie 132
Green 137
Black's Fork 138
Bear 141
Las Animas 102
Cimmeron 103
Canadian 106

t, „ Page*
Red 108
Wichita nt
Weber 145-146
Jordan 160
Sevier 171
Logan 178
Ross Fork 185
Snake 187-226
Deer Lodge 195
Payette 315
Weiser 215
Powder 217
Walla Walla 223
Trouchet 225-239
Ham's Fork ..181
Port Neuf. 184
Palouse 229
Spokane 236
Umatilla 221
Columbia 237-278
John Days 241
De Chutes 242
Hood 246
Sandy 248
Willamette 249-253
Cowlitz 257
Chehalis 258
SPRINGS, ETC.
Page.
Sharon 46
Idaho 63
Hot Sulphur 67
Cottonwood , 75
Hortense 77
Glenwood 88
Manitou 98
Warm—Salt Lake City 160
Page.
Hot—Ogden 176
Soda 182
Warm—Montana 196
Hailey—Hot 203
Guyer ...205
Hot—Boise 213
Hot—Oregon.... 220
Silver.. 257


GENERAL INDEX
—CONTINUED.
STEAMlIt LlNES.
Page.
ToLewistown 227
"Astoria 253
"San Francisco 251
"Alaska 269
"The Dalles 276
Page.
To Whatcom 266
"Port Townsend 268
"Victoria, B. C 268
"Olympia 269
"Seattle 261
CITIES, TOWNS, STATIONS.
Page.
Abilene 43
Adair 103
Adams 223
Albana 250
Albion 25
Alma 74
Alpine 77
Alpine Tunnel 79
Alps 103
Alta 163
Alto 226
Altus 121
Alvord 113
American Falls 198
American Fork 166
Amorillo 106
Anaconda 195
Arapahoe 46
Archer 32
Argo 59
Arl1ngton 240
Armstrong 39
Arvada 59
Aspen, Colo 87
Aspen, Wyo 139
Astoria 254
Baldwin 81
* Baker City 217
Beatrice 22-41
Beaver Brook 60
Beaver Canon 188
Beloit 43
Berthoud 92
Belleville 43
Bellevue 111-202
Bellingham 266
Bierstadt 96
Big Springs 29
Biggs 242
Bingham Junction 162
Bismark Grove 39
Bitter Creek 134
Black Buttes 134
Blackfoot 185
Black Hawk 62
Bla lock's 240
Bliss 208
Boelus 26
Boise City 211
Bolles Junction 225
Bolter Summit 166
Bonneville 248
Bordeaux 121
Boreas 82
Boulder 89
Bountiful 156
Bowie 112
Breckenridge 82
Bridal Veil 248
Brighton 117
Brookville 44
Bryan 138
Bucoda 259
Buena Vista... 75
Buford.., 123
Burk '..234
Butte City 194
Caldwell 214
Camas 188
Carbon 130
Carter 139
Carroll's 257
Cascade Locks 246
Castle Rock Utah 143
CastleRock Wash 257
Page.
Castleton 81
Cataled 233
Cedar Fort 165
Cedar Point 50
Cedar Rapids 25
Centerville (Oregon) 223
Central City, Neb 25
Central City, Col 62
Centralia 258
Centreville 155
Chambers 172
Chatcolet 232
Cheyenne 119
Cheyenne Wells 47
Chehalis 258
Chihuahua 84
Childress 108
Chuckanut 266
Chugwater 121
Church Buttes 138
Clarendon 107
Claude 107
Clay Centre, Neb 22
Clay Centre, Kan 39
Clayton 105
Climax 85
Clyde 43
Coalville 145
Colby 44
Colfax 229
Colilo 242
Collinston 177
Colorado City 98
Colorado Springs 96
Columbus 25
Como 73
Concordia 43
Cooper Lake 228
Cottonwood 61
Creston 133
Cucharas 101
Dana 131
David City „.. 22
Dayton 225
Decatur 113
Deer Lodge 196
Denver 50-51
Deuel 34
Devil's Gate 150
Dewey % 177
Diamond 229
Dickey 84
Dillon, Colo 84
Dillon, Mont 193
Dome Rock 71
Draper 164
Eagle Rock 187
East Portland 250
Easton 96
Eaton 118
Echo 237
Echo City 143
Edson 131
Elbert 95
Elberton 230
Elizabeth 95
Elkhorn 22
Ellis 45
Ellsworth 44
El Moro 102
Emery Gap 103
Empire City 65
Endicott 229
Esquimau, B. C 269
Estabrook Park 71
Page.
Eureka 166
Evans 117
Evanston 142
Fairbury 22-26
Fairfield 235
Fairfield, Neb 22-26
Fairfield, Utah 165
Fair Haven 266
Fairplay 73
Fairview 248
Falcon 96
Farmington, Utah ....155
Farmington.Wash. ...231
First View 47
Folsom 103
Forks Creek 61
Fort Collins 92
Fort Worth 114
Fort Morgan 34
Fossil 181
Francisville 100
Franklin 179
Fremont 23
Fremont's Pass 85
Frisco 171
Garfield 230
Garfield Beach 172
Garos 73
Garrison 197
Genoa 25
Georgetown 65
Gilmore 22
Glenn's Ferry 208
Glenwood bprings 88
Golden 60
Granite 76
Grand Island 26
Granger 138
Gran1te Canon 123
Grants 241
Graymont 69
Grayline 193
Greeley 118
Green River 135
Gunnison City 80
Hailey 202
Hampton 139
Hancock 77
Hartley 105
gays 45
Helena 197
Henrietta 111
Hilliard 140
Hill Top 74
Holton 39
Hood River 246
Honeyville 177
Horse Creek 120
Hortense 77
Hot Lake 220
Hoxie 44
Hunter 257
Huntington 216
Huntsv1lle 225
Hyde Park 179
Idaho Springs 63
Iowa Park no
Ironton, Utah 166
Ironton, Wa*h 268
Iron Mountain 121
Islay 12c
Juab 170
Julesburg 29
Junction City 41
Kalama 254-257


10
GENERAL INDEX-c<™uED.
CITIES, TOWNS, STATIONS—Continued.
Page.
Kansas City 37
Kaysville 155
Kearney 26
Kelso 257
Kenosha 71
Ketchum 204
Kimball 32
Kit Carson 47
Kokomo 84
Kuna 209
La Camas 277
La Grande 220
La Salle 35-1i7
Lake View 259
Lander 132
Laramie City 126
Latah 235
Lawrence 39
Lawrenceburg 43
Lawrence Junction... 39
Leadville 85
Leavenworth 39
Leduc 201
Lehi 166
Lehi Junction ...165
Levan 170
Lewiston 227
Lincoln 22-41
Lindsborg 44
Linwood 39
Littleton 70
Logan 178
London ... 73
Longmont 91
Loup City 26
Lovelana 92
Lower Cascades 282
Lupton.. 117
Manitou 98
Manitou Junction 96
Manhattan 41-22
Market Lake 187
Marysville 22-26-41
Maxwell 237
McCammon 180
McCool Junction 22
McGees 75
McPherson 44
Medicine Bow 130
Melrose 193
Melvin 94
Mendon 178
Milford 171
Millbrook 44
Milton 223
Minidoka 200
Minneapolis 43
Mirage 47
Mona 170
Monida 199
Montezuma 8$
Montpelier 182
Morrison 70
Moscow 230
Mountain Home 208
Mt. Carbon 81
Mullan 234
Multonomah 248
Nampa 209
Napavine 258
Nathrop 77
Nephi 170
New Cambria 43
Norfork 25
North Platte City 27
North Powder 218
Nutria 181
Oakley 46
Oasis 171
Oconee 25
O'Fallon 27
Page.
Ogallala 28
Ogden 150-151
Ogdensburg 41
Ohio City 80
Old's Ferry 216
Olympia 270
Omaha 19
Ontario 214
Ord 26
Osburn 234
Otto 123
Oxford 180
Palouse Junction 228
Pan Handle City 107
Papillion 22
Park City 145
Parker's 95
Payette 215
Payson ...169
Pendleton 221
Piedmont 139
Picabo 201
Pine Bluffs 32
Pitkin 80
Platte Canon 70
Platteville 117
Pleasant Grove 168
Pleasant Valley 217
Pocatello 185
Point of Rocks 134
Pomeroy 226
Port Blakely 264
Port Discovery 268
PortHadlock 268
Port Townsend 268
Portland 249
Preston 179
Provo 168
Pueblo 101
Pullman 229
Quanah 109
Rawlins 132
Red Buttes 125
Red Desert 134
Red Rock 192
Richmond 178
Riparia 226
Robinson 84
Rock Creek 128
Rockford 235
Rock Springs 134
Romley 77
Rooster Rock 248-279
Russell 44
Saint Helen's 258
Salina.....*. 44
Salt Lake City 157
Salt Wells 134
San Francisco 251
Sandy 164
Santaquin 170
Saratoga 131
Schuyler 25
Schwanders 75
Scotia 26
Seatco 259
Seattle 262
Sehome 267
Seltice 231
Separation 133
Sharon Springs 46
Sherman 123
Shoshone 200
Sidney 30
Silver Bow 194
Silver City 166
Silver Plume 68
Soda Springs 180
Solomon 43
Spanish Fork 169
Page.
Spokane Falls 236
Springfield 179
Springhill 192
Springville 169
Squally Hook 241
State Line 39
Sterling 33
Stockton 175
Stromsburg 22
St. Elmo 77
St. Mary's 40
St. Paul 26
Summit 178
Summerville 220
Sunset 112
Sutton 22
Table Rock 134
Tacoma 260
Tascosa 106
Teachout 51
Tekoa 231
Telocaset... 218
Tenino 259
Texline 105
The Dalles 243
The Transfer 17
Tikura 201
Tintic 166
Tooele 175
Topeka 40
Trouchet 239
Troutdale 248
Trinidad 102
Tumwater 275
Twin Lakes 76
Uintah 150
Umatilla 237
Union 219
Upper Cascades 282
Uva 122
Valley 22
Valley Falls '. 39
Valparaiso 26
Vancouver 276
Vernon 109
Victoria, Kan 45
Victoria, B. C 269
Wahoo 22
Wa-Keeney 45
Waldo 44
Walkersville 195
Wallace 46-234
Walla Walla 224
Wallula 239
Wamego 40
Wardner 233
Warm Springs 196
Wasatch 163
Washburn 107
Washougal 277
Watesburg 225
Weatherby.... 217
Weber 148
Weir 29
Weiser 215
Wendover 122
West Seattle 265
Weston 223
Whatcom 267
Wheatland 122
Wheeler 84
Wichita Falls no
Willows 240
Willows Junction 239
Winlock 258
Winship 145
Wolcott 131
Wyandotte 38
Yeltn Prairie 259
Zurich 44


11
THE PRSTHND PRESENT.
It is in the memory of the writer when Ohio and Michigan were
away out west; when stages arrived in New York regularly every
day from Boston, "weather permitting," and leaving as regularly for
Philadelphia and the west. Buffalo and Pittsburgh were then the
frontier towns. From the former two steamboats left, once a week,
and a stage-wagon from Pittsburgh for the "Northwestern Terri-
tory," now Ohio and Michigan.
The entire white population residing west of the two cities
above named numbered less than 25,000 and they were mostly
hunters,- trappers, and fur-traders, or refugees from justice in the
east.
The popular clamor in those days in the east for the settlement
of the west found voice in a universal invitation as follows:
"Come from every nation,
Come from every way
Our lands they are broad enough
So don't be alarmed,
For Uncle Sam is rich enough
To give us all a farm."
They came, and from every nation—even from China, India and
Japan. They came as the winds come when forests are rended.
They came as the waves come when navies are stranded.
In 1849 Illinois was the extreme frontier. The gold discoveries
in California were circulated in the east about that time and tens of
thousands of adventurous men started by water around "Cape
Horn," 20,000 miles, for this new El Dorado. Others, more ven-
turesome pressed into service horses, mules and cattle and many
varieties of conveyances, and boldly struck out towards the setting
sun, across the then almost unknown trackless deserts and path-
less mountains; many there were who started with hand-carts,
propelling them themselves.
Again, there were others who started on foot with only what
they could pack on their backs, trusting to luck to get through to
the gold fields.
In 1855 Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and Illinois were supposed to
contain the wheat-growing soil of the Union, and they became
known as the "granaries of the states." At that time the extreme
western limit of railroad travel was at East St. Louis and Rock
Island, both in the state of Illinois.
Then the "far west"—that almost mythical region—was what
now constitutes those vast and fertile prairies which lie south and
west of the great lakes and east of and bordering the Mississippi
river; all beyond was a blank, or popularly thought to be a
"howling wilderness," inhabited only by Indians, wild nomads,
and all the dangers of the inferno.
About this date our hardy pioneers passed the "Rubicon" and
the west receded before their advance; Missouri was peopled and
the Father of Waters became the natural highway of a mighty
commerce.


12 AWAKE! PROGRESS—AWAKE!
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Iowa had
joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It
traversed the Rocky mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon.
But it passed by not unheeding the rich valleys and broad prairies
of Nebraska and Kansas, which retained what became, with sub-
sequent additions, a permanent and thriving population.
In 1858-9 the gold discoveries in the "Pike's Peak country,"
now Colorado, caused another great rush "from every nation,"
and the population of California had increased to that extent, when
it was added to the number comprising the great American Union;
Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, and Kansas and Nebraska
on the east, followed, and still the roads westward from the Mis-
souri river were thronged with emigrants going west. They "came
from every nation," etc.
Congress Aets—The extraordinary developments in Califor-
nia and Oregon prompted many far-seeing men in congress to
advocate the building of a railroad across the continent.
At that date Iowa and Missouri were the recognized frontier.
Notwithstanding that Benton, Clarke and others had long urged
the necessity and practicability of a railroad from the Missouri
river to the Pacific coast, pointing out the wealth and power which
would accrue to the country from its realization; the idea found
favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the
knowledge that even the loyal state of California was in danger of
being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the
leaders of the great rebellion; that a rebel force was forming in
Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign
and domestic machinations threatened the dismemberment of the
Union its three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face
could our national solons see the practicability of the scheme so
earnestly advocated by Sargent, of California, and his able coadju-
tors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion the govern-
. ment had little to offer for successful defense.
Then, the building of the Pacific railroad across the continent
became a great national necessity, and the charter was granted for
the construction of the
Union Paeifie Railroad—The building of this road was
inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever
known; for, without the pressure of the rebellion, the road would
probably have remained in embryo for many years.
Notwithstanding almost numberless insurmountable difficulties
—financially and otherwise—the road was completed May 10th,
1869. Then
All was ehanged—The magnificent trains of the Union Pa-
cific railroad rolled across the continent filled with emigrants and
pleasure seekers through that region which only a few years be-
fore was but a dim, undefined mythical expanse, supposed to be
valueless for any purpose. How great the change from the ideal
to the real, as this book will show. For over 300 miles after leav-
ing Omaha and Kansas City, that vague "great American desert"
proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can
be found elsewhere under like geographical position.
'-- In this last decade the railroads from the east extended their
lines westward to the Missouri river, and a full score soon adver-
tised to making "close connections" with the pioneer overland.
. I


MARCH ON! MARCH ON! 13
The Missouri Pacific was the first to reach the Missouri river at
Kansas City, where it arrived October 1st, 1865. The Chicago &
North-Western came next, to Council Bluffs, January 17th, 1867.
The Central Pacific was the first to commence work on the
trans-continental line at Sacramento, February 22d, 1863. Next
came the Kansas Pacific [now of the Union Pacific system] Septem-
ber 1st, 1863, and the Union Pacific commenced November 5th,
1865.
From 1869 to 1889, twenty years records a progress the most
marvelous in the world's history.
To-day—the superb coaches and palaces of this pioneer rail-
road line, crossing the continent, are equipped in the most complete
manner for speed, safety and comfort, and the trains roll across the
plains and over the mountains to meet the far-off foam-crested
waves of the Pacific ocean, which bear on their bosoms a mighty
and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the
Sandwich Islands, South America, and the famed Orient are at
our doors. Also the marvelous wealth of our own west and north-
west coast—California, Oregon, Washington and the rich Alaska
and Puget Sound country.
Three rich, powerful, populous and progressive states have
arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missionaries among
the savages were the only works of civilization; Colorado, too,
joined thesisterhood.laterfoll owed by Dakota, Montana, Washington
Wyoming, and Idaho, leaving Utah, New Mexico and Arizona, to say
nothing of Alaska, waiting the time, when they, too, shall add their
names to the roll of honor and enter the union on an equality with
the others, towhich,in pointof population andwealth, they have long
been entitled. Thuswe see that the "farwesf'of to-dayhas become
far removed from the west of three decades ago, and what is now
the central portion of our great commonwealth was then the far,
far west.
Wow—all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys
and on the broad plains, are the homes, well cultivated fields, pro-
lific orchards and vineyards, and countless flocks and herds of
unnumbered thousand of hardy and brave pioneer settlers; thay
''came from every nation,'' etc. At the same time the towering
mountains, once the home of the skulking savage and wild beast,
the deep gulches and gloomy canons are illuminated with the
perpetual fires of hundreds of smelting furnaces; the ring of pick,
shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all
tell of the presence of the miner; and the streams of wealth which
are daily loading great railroad trains and flowing into our
national coffers are marvelous and continually increasing, for just
in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, so does his
country partake of his fortune.
When we published our first trans-continental book, September
1, 1869, the Missouri river was the recognized frontier line. It
was there all travelers for the great unknown, toward the setting
sun, congregated; it was there they bid good-bye to friends, or
mailed their parting lines, many times with fearful misgivings for
the future.
In 1869, we secured a list of the equipments of the Union
Pacific railroad. To contrast that date with the first, 20 years,
we reproduce the figures, adding those for 1889.


14
1869—1889.
EQUIPMENT FOR 1869.
Locomotives 149
Pullman sleepers 22
Passenger cars 64
""second class 13
Mail and express cars 32
Caboose
Baggage
Box
Flat
Hand
Dump
Coal
Bridge
Gravel
Derrick
Wrecking
Rubble
Cook
Powder
Water tank
Pay
Officer's
President's
1,885
1,472
. 264
■ 47
. 231
Total equipment..
EQUIPMENT FOR I889.
Locomotives, standard gauge 541
"narrow guage 143
Snow plows 36
Flangers 19
Pullman sleepers 55
Coaches 198
Officers' cars 11
Pay" 2
Chair" 5
Footings 923
Baggage cars 85
Ma1l cars ... 22
Express cars 15
Coach and baggage combined 23
Baggage, mailand express comb'd 25
Baggage and mail combined 12
Baggage and express combined... 11
Excursion coaches 14
Excursion and emigrant sleepers 89
Coat hopper and dump cars 307
Fruit
Caboose
Hand
Box
"fast freight
"refrigerator
"furn1ture..
Flat
Coal
Stock
Stock—combination
Outfit
Derrick
Wrecking tool
Pile driver
Water and tank
Plow and scraper
Construction flat
Steam shovel
Total equipment 18,780
Equipment, 1869 4,347
The increase of equipment 14,433
Total number of employes 16,500
32.S
.. 297
. 560
• 7-«23
• 392
.. 403
- 749
-1,294
. 3,621
- 1,435
.. 131
22
H
.. 16
9
• 65
. 16
. 23
We append the following curious item of information obtained
through the courtesy of Mr. A. Traynor, Gen'l Baggage Agent of
the Union Pacific railway.
"General Baggage Off1ce, \
"Counc1l Bluffs, Iowa, March 19th, 1891./
Statement of the business of the baggage department for years
188(, to 1890, inclusive—five years.
YEAR.
nO. PIECES.
EXCESS BAGGAGE.
LOSS AnD
DAMAGE.
RECEIVED FROM SALE
UnCLAIMED.
1886
1887
1888
1889
l8gO
1,792,646
$ 93,>?4-90
101,661.42
93,496.01
105,236.08
164,096.02
$ 60.00
402.47
6,929.20
12,849.92
I4.S30.07
$ S3'-10
1,873,165
1.828,832
3,002,670
727.32
526.95
387.08
1.5".55
Total
10,543,562
$557.674-43
$34.77I-0°
$3,686.00
Average per year of the total value of baggage handled, esti-
timated at $150.00 per piece, $316,306,860.00.
Civilization has literally rolled across the continent. "Came
from every nation, came from every way," converting what was for
ages supposed to be a wilderness into the most productive country.
There is no longer any "desert," the mountains have been
tunnelled or scaled, the plains have been spanned by various lines
of railroad, the tide of emigration has reached the Pacific coast.
New York is within four days and Europe within ten days of
Puget sound.
The manufacturing enterprise of the east has invaded the far
west; factories are springing up in her cities and towns, and her
vast mineral, lumber and f1shery resources are being developed to
a marvelous extent. Mines of gold and silver, producing $10,000,-
000 a year; of copper, $5,200,000 a year; saw-mills, sawing 517,000
feet of lumber a day; hop crops, valued at $1,500 per acre; wheat,


PAST—PRESENT.
15
140 bushels to the acre; barley, 65 bushels to the acre; four and a
half tons of timothy to the acre, apples weighing 44 ounces, and
wild strawberries eight inches in circumference, are among the
productions of this "desert" country. A country where they catch
fish by water power, rolling them into their big canneries in great
streams, shipping hundreds of tons fresh, and 5,000,000 of cans
annually. Where vast bodies of water fall sheer 2,000 feet, and
in others shoot upwards, boiling hot, over 200 feet, where moun-
tains elevate their peaks, snow-cappped, nearly 15,000 feet, and fear-
ful chasms yawn to an unfathomable depth.
In 1864 no railroad had reached the Missouri river frontier line,
and the entire commerce of the Missouri valley and beyond was
carried on by steam packets on the river from St. Louis, or by
"prairie schooners" across the country. The materials for building
the Union Pacific railroad all came up the Missouri river on boats,
or were hauled on wagons across the state of Iowa for hundreds of
miles. When the Union Pacific railroad was commenced, Omaha
had a population of 2,500, now 140,000; Kansas City, 3,600, now
132,000; Denver, 1,500, now 106,000; Salt Lake City, 4,500, now
45,000; Portland, 300, now 57,000, and scores of cities and towns
containing populations now of from 5,000 to 25,000 were
unknown then.
At the present time there are over 900 cities and towns west
of the old Missouri frontier line of 1860 that number their pop-
ulation from 300 to 25,000 each, which have sprung into existence
since that date.
The Pullman Palace Car Co.—Now operates this class of
service on the Union Pacific and connecting lines.

PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN
Double I Drawing
Berths. Room.
New York and Chicago k
New York and St. Louis
Boston and Chicago
Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City
Chicago and Denver
St. Louis and Kansas City
St. Louis and Omaha
Kansas City and Cheyenne
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Denver
Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Salt Lake
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Ogden
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Butte
Council Bluffs, Omaha or Kansas City and Portland ...
C. Bluffs, Omaha or K. City and San Francisco or LosAngeles
Cheyenne and Portland
Denver and Leadville
Denver and Portland
Denver and Los Angeles
Denver and San Francisco
Ogden and Butte
Ogden and Pocatello
Pocatello and Butte
$ 5-oo
6.oo
5-50
2.50
6.00
2.00
2.50
4.50
3-50
4.00
8.00
8.00
9-50
13.00
13.00
10.00
2.00
10,00
11.00
11.00
3-50
2,no
t.5°
$18.00
22.00
20.00
9.00
21.00
7.00
9.00
16.00
12.00
14.00
28.00
28.00
36.00
50.00
50.00
38.00
38.00
42.00
42.00
12.00
7.00
6.00
Pocatello and Ogden Seatl
Butte and Pocatello "I
1.00
1-50
Fam1ly SLEEPERS—This railway company, for the special
accommodation of their second-class passengers, runs family sleep-
ing cars on the Pacific express daily. These cars are fitted up com-
plete with mattresses, curtains, blankets, pillows, etc., and are
under the general management of the Pullman Palace Car Co.;
they are very comfortable, and are provided with uniformed
-porters, who keep them in good order and look after the wants of
the passengers. No smoking is allowed in these cars, and none


16 PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY.
but second-class passengers are permitted to occupy them. The
charges are $5 for a section between Council Bluffs or Kansas City
to the Pacific coast, or $2.50 for lower or upper double berth—inter-
mediates, 50 cents per night.
Free Sleep1ng Cars—Without upholstering or bedding, are
also run on the Pacific express daily, passengers furnishing then-
own mattresses, blankets, etc.
Through Palace Sleepers—By a special arrangement be-
tween the Union Pacific and the Chicago & North-Western Railway
Companies, "The Union Pacific & North-Western Line'' was
established. Its special feature is the running of through Palace
Sleeping Cars between the following cities: Chicago and Denver,
via Omaha; Chicago and Portland, Oregon, via Omaha; Chicago
and Salt Lake City, Utah, via Omaha; Chicago and San Francisco,
via Omaha; and between St. Paul and Minneapolis to both San
Francisco and Portland, via Sioux City, Iowa, and Columbus,
Nebraska.
By this arrangement passengers are not required to "change
cars" at every junction point, saving at times an immense amount
of trouble and annoyance, particularly to ladies and invalids
traveling alone, and in fact to all classes of travelers.
On our Route Westward the traveler will have food for
thought in the remembrance that where school houses and churches
dot the landscape, less than twenty years ago roamed the buffalo and
Indian nomads; where sage-brush and prairie dogs were the most
numerous, are fenced fields and fields of grain; the "lowing herds"
have taken the place of the noble game and the ignoble coyote;
where later ranged the cowboy's herd, are now the plows followed
by seedtime and harvest; the lumbering stage coach, the "prairie
schooner," the emigrant team have all given place to the comfort-
able railroad train with its elegant coaches, palace, family and
tourist sleeping cars. The wealth of all the crowned heads in the
world can buy no greater comforts or luxuries than can be had on
a trip by rail across the continent in the magnificent cars of the
Union Pacific Railway.
Passage T1cket Memoranda.
Baggage Check Memoranda.


COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 17
OUR STARTING PLACE.
The Transfer—the initial point of the Union Pacific rail-
road—is in the state of Iowa, on the east side of the Missouri
river opposite the city of Omaha and about midway between the
river and the city of Council Bluffs—on the river bottom, which is
at this point about three miles in width. Here, the railway
company have erected a
Un1on Depot—a model of convenience. It is built of brick
with stone trimmings, two stories, 350 feet in length, from north
to south, with wings 50 feet wide extending westward from each
end about 300 feet, with long platforms on the inside 15 feet in
width. Between the platforms and wings are four tracks on which
stand the trains of the Union Pacific, bound westward. Covering
all platforms and trains, are long corrugated iron roofs affording
ample protection against storms, heat and cold. The second story
of the main building is used for hotel purposes and contains 40
rooms besides elegant parlors all furnished in the most comfort-
able manner, and provided with hot and cold water and all the
modern improvements. The first floor of the northern portion
of the main building contains two large waiting rooms for ladies
and gentlemen; ticket, telegraph and telephone offices; lunch
counter and news stand, and a bar and barber shop. In the north
wing is a well appointed dining room capable of seating 200
persons. A short distance further westward is located the "Emi-
grant House," which was built by the railroad company, and is
run by their direction for the accommodation and protection of their
emigrant passengers. The building is of wood, has 70 rooms com-
fortably furnished, accomodates 200 persons, and charges only
sufficient to cover cost; plain substantial meals, 25 cents each.
"Runners " and "hoodlums" are not allowed about the premises.
In the southern part of the main building and in the south wing
are located the baggage, mail and express rooms, also the principal
office of Mr. A. Traynor, the general baggage agent of the Union
Pacific Railway system.
Transfer Connect1ons—At the eastern front of the Union
Depot building, arrive and depart the regular passenger trains of
the following named railroads: Chicago & North-Western; Chicago,
Burlington & Quincy; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Chicago,
Milwaukee & St. Paul; Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs;
Wabash Western; and the Sioux City & Pacific. Between the
tracks of these roads are long covered platforms over which
passengers, mails, baggage, etc., reach the trains or depot. All
passengers from the east, after passing through the depot, will
find the Union Pacific west bound trains _ waiting on the west side.
The Transfer Grounds—as they are called—to the south
and west of the depot are very extensive, covering several thous-
and acres. On these '' grounds '' are a number of large grain eleva-
tors and buildings belonging to the railroad company, besides a
bewildering collection of railroad rolling stock. Here, one can read
on the cars the names of hundreds of railroads—strays, from all
parts of the United States and Canada.


18 GETTING READY TO START.
Street Cars—leave from a platform at the north end of the
depot for Council Bluffs every five or ten minutes; fare five cents.
Dummy Tra1ns—as they are called—are steam trains run by
the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs and Omaha every half-
hour for local business. Some of these trains are provided with
cars suited to drive carriages and teams upon, and also live stock.
When eastern trains arrive at the transfer "on time" passengers
for Omaha often take the "dummy " and reach the Omaha depot
about one hour before arrival of the regular Overland train.
Before Start1ng—The time usually o>. cupied at the transfer
before starting west by the regular trains, is about one hour, pro-
vided, the eastern trains are "on time." This hour is consumed
in transferring the baggage, mails, express, etc.
Check Your Baggage.—Unless passengers hold through tick-
ets and know that their baggage has been checked to their destina-
tion, they will need see to re-checking it at this depot.
Sleep1ng Cars.—If you desire to procure sleeping berths, and
have not already done so, you will need to attend to it at this
depot.—See car rates on preceding pages.
BHP'Sleeping car and stop-over privileges are not allowed on
second and third-class tickets. Baggage can be checked only to
the destination of second and third-class tickets.—See baggage
rates also on preceding pages.
Meal Stat1ons—Most of the meal stations on the Union
Pacific Railway system are at convenient points where the com-
pany have erected large and commodious hotels which are con-
ducted, under their supervision, by the Pacific Hotel Dept. Meals,
75 cents. At these houses passengers who choose can "stop over"
and enjoy a comfortable rest, at a charge of $3 per day.
Lunches—At most of the meal stations, "lunch counters"
are provided, where sandwiches, cakes, pies cold meats, etc.,
with coffee, tea and milk, can be procured, that are very good and
at reasonable charges.
Pullman D1n1ng Cars—of superb appointments—are run
ou all the fast through trains; to Denver are run Pullman Buffet
Cars and Pullman Colonist Sleeping Cars; and free Reclining
Chair Cars are also run on all through trains and on many of the
local trains.
F1nally—If the reader is starting out on this trip for pleas-
ure, for real solid enjoyment—it might be well for us to suggest
that the past be forgotten, and to seek to live only for the present.
If you are puffed up with eastern or city prejudices against every-
body and everything in the west—formed possibly by reading
"Wild Bill" literature—lay them aside ! leave them at the Transfer
until your return; you should also lay off the dress-coat of style
and don the wrapper of simplicity and ease, and for this once in
your life if never again—be natural, and be on the alert, with
eyes and ears, while rambling among nature's loveliest and grand-
est creations. Having done this, you will be prepared to enjoy
the trip—to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively be-
fore you. But, above all, forget everything but the journey, and
in this consists the great secret of having a good time generally.
Old Mother Eve's curtain lectures must have been rib-roasts.


OMAHA —NEBRASKA.
18
"All Aboard"!—The bell rings, and our train glides away
to the westward and is soon crossing the Missouri river on the
great
Un1on Pac1f1c Br1dge.—This bridge is a "Post-patent"—the
hollow iron columns are 22 in number, two forming a pier. These
columns are made of cast iron 1J inches thick, 8h feet in diameter,
10 feet long, and weigh eight tons ^ach. They are bolted together,
air-tight, and sunk to the bed-rock of the river, in one case 82 feet
below low-water mark.
After these columns are seated on the rock foundation, they are
filled up 20 feet with stone concrete, and from the concrete to the
"bridge seat", they are filled with regular masonry. From high-
water mark to the "bridge seat," these columns measure 50 feet.
The 11 spans are 250 feet in length, making the iron part, between
abutments, 2,750 feet. The approaches are about the same length.
By recent additions to the original structure the bridge has now a
double track for cars, and also for teams.
Omaha Depot—Is reached soon after crossing the bridge.
It is a large building with one enormous span overhead, built in
the most substantial manner of brick, iron and glass, with six
tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side are
two waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph, tel-
ephone, baggage and express offices—also a news stand, a bar and
a lunch counter.
Passengers who wish to stop over, will find omnibusses and
carriages at the west end of the depot to take them and their bag-
gage to the hotels, or any point in the city of Omaha; fare 50
cents; or, they will find horse and motor street cars a few hun-
dred feet from the northwest corner of the depot building that
leave every five minutes, passing the principal hotels, and running
to all parts of the city—fare five cents.
Omaha—[Pop., about 140,4511—This is one of the most pro-
gressive cities in the west, having more than doubled its popula-
tion and business within the last five years. It is the seat of
.Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Missouri
river, on a gradual slope about 50 feet above high-water mark,
with an elevation of 1,032 feet above sea level. The first settle-
ment was made in 1854, and named for the Omaha Indians who
then possessed the country. Omaha, from a mud-hole in 1880, has
become the best paved city in the west. It has all the substantial
and modern improvements of the times, and abounds in business
palaces of brick, stone and iron, with smelting furnaces, grain
elevators, packing houses, distilleries, immense stock and lumber
yards, machine shops and foundries, as well as scores of manu-
facturies of all kinds. Besides the Union Pacific bridge, another
spans the Missouri, with carriage and foot ways and electric
motor cars between the city and Council Bluffs.
The city of Omaha is provided with ample banking capital,
scores of hotels, chief of which are the Millard, Paxton and
Murray; and four daily and a number of weekly newspapers.
The Board of Trade—with a large membership of active
workers, has been an important factor in promoting and stimulat-
ing the general prosperity of the city.
The headquarters of the Department of the Platte, is located at
Omaha.


-2i)
ALL ABOARD—FAREWELL OMAHA.
Fort Omaha—Established in 1868, is located three miles
north of the city—occupies 80 acres. There is an excellent car-
riage road to the Fort, and is quite a popular drive, affording par-
ties an opportunity to witness the dress parades of the "boys in
blue."
The Fort is commanded by Col. Frank Wheaton, 2d Infantry
and is the headquarters of and garrisoned by A. B. C. D. E. F.
G. H. I. and K. companies.
Belt Ra1lroad—Is the name of a road which connects the
principal large manufacturing establishments, elevators, lumber
yards, packing houses, stock yards, etc., with the different freight
depots of the different railroads centering in the city.
General Off1ces.—The general offices of the Union Pacific
Railway Co. are located in Omaha in a large building sit-
uated on the bluffs in the eastern part of the city in a conspicuous
position, overlooking the river for many miles up and down, and
the country opposite, Council Bluffs and the Transfer grounds.
The general offices of the Burlington & Missouri River Rail-
road Co., are also located in Omaha.
Ra1lroad Shops—About one mile north from the Omaha de-
pot, on the low-lands fronting the river, the Union Pacific Railway
Co. have located their principal machine shops and store-houses.
They are built of brick, in the most substantial manner, and
with the outbuildings, lumber yard, tracks, etc., cover about 30
acres of ground.
The machine shop is furnished with all the new and most im-
proved machinery which is necessary for the successful working
of all the branches of locomotive and car construction or repairs.
The company manufacture nearly all of their own cars. It is
very generally conceded of late years, that the passenger cars, in
point of neatness, finish, strength of build and size, are unsur-
passed by any, and equaled by few manufacturers elsewhere. It
is the expressed determination of the Union Pacific Co. to
provide as good cars and coaches for the traveling public in style
and finish as those of any eastern road. They reason that as
their great Trans-Continental railroad system is the longest and
grandest on the continent, its rolling stock should be equally
grand and magnificent. From the appearance of the cars already
man ufactured, they will doubtless achieve their desires. On the
same principal, we propose to make our book superior to any and
all others.—Haven't we done so?
Connect1ons—By rail, are: Burlington & Missouri River:Missouri Pacific and
Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis & Omaha; Chicago, Burlington & Quiucy, and
Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri Valley railroads.
All Aboard—We are going west. There are nearly 300
others. Many are the parting words between friends who go
and those who slay. "Farewell." Ah! what a world of mean
ing in that one word. We heard that word, over 20 years ago,
under trying circumstances. We shall never forget it. The
mouldering headboard still stands—we see it many times each
year, and it always says "farewell!" We are again going that
way. Two hours pass, we are entering the "buffalo range" of 25
years ago; six hours, we are in the midst of the range—on the


22 VALLEY AND CONNECTIONS.
ment, and walked the platform of Cooper Union, in New York.
He is now on a reservation, taking his rations regularly. It was on
Pole creek, near Sidney, during the construction of this railroad.
But those trying times have passed, never to return. The buffalo
is gone, the Indian has gone from the trail, yet the word "fare-
well" is ever a sad reminder of the past; so, if we sometimes con-
trast the present with the past, could one marvel?
Leaving Omaha, our train climbs the world over 100 feet in the
first four miles. We pass in that distance large grain elevators,
great lumber yards, warehouses, manufactories of different kinds,
government store-houses, and the monster stock yards and pack-
ing houses of South Omaha. From this point our descent is rapid,
dropping down 157 feet in the next six miles, to Gilmore, or to an
altitude of 985 feet above sea level, the lowest point on the whole
line.
From Gilmore our iron horse will have gradual up grade to
to Sherman, 539 miles, the highest elevation on the main overland
line, 8,247 feet above sea level; but, before we are through with
this Tour, we will stand on the highest point ever reached by a
railroad train in the world, 11,596 feet above sea level.
Pupil I ion — (Pap-e-o) —15 miles from Omaha is a small
station on the river of that name, in the midst of of a thaifty farm-
ing community. In the next two miles we pass under the track
of the Missouri Pacific railroad, and proceeding, cross the Elk-
horn river, 11 miles beyond.
The Elkhorn river is nearly 300 miles in length. It rises among,
the hills of the divide, near the head-waters of the Niobrara. It
is the oldest settled portion of the state of Nebraska, north of the
Platte river. The valley of the Elkhorn averages about eight
miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. The
settlers are mostly Germans of the thrifty class, with good houses,
fine orchards of fruits, well cultivated farms, and comfortable and
pleasant surroundings.
Valley — Is a junction station, six miles west of Elkhorn, and
35 miles from Omaha, situated on the Platte river botfom, sur-
rounded by farms, where the principal products are corn and hay.
Connect1ons by rail are: Omaha & Republ1can Valley branch of the
Union Pacific railway. It commences at Valley station, and runs in a south-
western direction crossing the Platte river within a few miles. Wahoo is
reached in a run of 18 miles, and 19 miles further Valpara1so —where turning
south 20 miles brings us to L1ncoln, the capital of the state of Nebraska.
From Lincoln it is 40 miles to Beatr1ce, and 37 miles more to Marysv1lle
— in the state of Kansas. Continuing south on the same branch, it is 56 miles
to Manhattan, on the Kansas division of the Union Pacific, 225 miles from
Omaha.
O. & R. V.—Stromsburg branch — runs west from Valparaiso, and reaches
Dav1d C1ty in 23 miles, and Stromsburg in 34 miles further—128 miles
from Omaha.
The line turns south from Stromsburg, reaching York in 17 miles, and
McCool Junct1on, eight miles further.
The Fairbury line leaves the "junction," and runs southeast 50 miles to
Fa1rbury, where connections are made with the St. Joseph & Grand Island
railroad. From Fairbury it is 40 miles to Marysville, 153 miles to St. Joseph,
and 99 miles to Grand Island.
The Alma line leaves the "junction," runs southwest, through Sutton,
and Clay Center, 39 miles to Fa1rf1eld, where connections are made with
the St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad, by which it is 56 miles to Fairbury; 06
miles to Marysville; 209 miles to St. Joseph, and 43 miles to Grand Island.-At Fair-
field, the Alma line runs southwest via W1lcox —97 miles—to Alma, 280 miles
from Omaha.
B. asks, "Does it pay to be good?" It does when the business becomes fully
established, but you've got to sink a great deal of money in the start.


24 YE OLDEN TIMES.
other times the course of the river can only be traced by the tim-
ber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features
now, dotted here and there with * planted groves of Cottonwood
trees, in the midst of which may be seen the settler's home, sur-
rounded by his fields and industries.
Before the railroad, the south bank of the Platte was one broad
thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of freighters and emigrants
with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away
for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Then it was, that
these plains were covered with buffalo, antelope, deer and smaller
game, and infested by white outlaws, squaw-men and bloodthirsty
Indians. At that time there was no travel on the north side of the
river below Big Springs station, but beyond that station, the trav-
eler of to-day can catch a glimpse here and there of a lone grave,
marked by a rude head-board; and, had he time, opportunity and
skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which
it is decorated, he will learn that it marks the last resting place of
some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down
here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave
it ; or, perchance, he will learn that the tenant of this lone grave
fell while defending his wife and family from the savages who
attacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. There is a
sad, brief history connected with each, told to the passer-by, may-
haps in rude lines, possibly by the broken arrow or bow, rudely
drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the
early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them
that they neglected the sick or dead within the train. The sick
were tenderly nursed, and the dead decently buried, and their
graves marked by the men who had shared with them the perils of
the trip. Those were the days, and these plains the place that tried
men's mettle ; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to
all others who ventured to cross the "vast desert " which stretched
its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires.
Brave, cool and wary as the savage, with his unerring rifle on his
arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he might en-
counter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an
invaluable aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter foe. This
type of people is fast passing away.
The Platte river rises in the mountains of Colorado — the
South Fork in the South Park and the North Fork in the North
Park — while the South Fork runs nearly east, the North Fork
runs north, for over 100 miles, and then turns eastward and south-
ward and unites with the South Fork, near North Platte city. The
channels in these rivers, during high water, is continually shifting,
caused by the vast quantity of sand which is continually floating
down their muddy tides. The sand is very treacherous, too, and
woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross before he has be-
come acquainted with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced
to the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous
task. In crossing, in the old freighting days, if anything went
wrong, and the train come to a stop, down it would sink in the
yielding quicksand, until the wagons were so firmly bedded that it
required more than double the original force to pull them out; and
often they must be unloaded to prevent the united teams from pull-
* Before the railroad there was not a tree growing on the plains except along
the bed of the streams.


(got
00L
QpLIMES
ln ($p0LORAD0.

1 PEAKING of spring reminds us that summer is not far
away. And now, while we are on the subject of sum-
mer, it might be timely to say something about the
annual summer trip which we all expect to take. Where to go,
how to go, and what to wear, will be the absorbing questions for
some weeks to come. The latter part of the question will concern
the ladies most, and it is safe to say that they will solve it in their
usual fascinating and bewitching manner. The summer girl will
be there arrayed in all her gowns and her glory.
Then must be decided the more momentous part of the ques-
tion—where to go. In this connection, it might be pertinent to
ask, What's the matter with Colorado? You can read the
answer in her eternal mountains and snow-capped peaks, which
hold their lofty heads among the clouds; in her dark and sunless
canons, where daylight struggles vainly with the gloom, and
sends no ray to light the damp and cheerless caverns; in her
r ashing rivers and resounding waterfalls, which find their sources
in perpetual snow fields, and flow forever toward the sea; in her
mineral springs whose healing waters gush in gentle streamlets
from her mountain sides or pour in volumes from their caverns;
in her gardens and parks of wonders of grotesque shapes and
monstrous formations; in her grand scenery which surpasses that
of the far-famed Alps, and holds the traveler entranced, lost in
admiration of its wild beauty and panoramic enchantment; in
her glorious climate which surpasses all in salubrity and fitness
for a summer retreat. In these read the answer: There is no
place like Colorado. And if you would get there smoothly,
quickly and comfortably, take the short and popular
TEXAS 5Noi-tten fe>as?
& **"*" HaTTas
PACIFIC ™^GH and
RAILWAY "^ Forfc WoKfch-
For further information as to rates and routes, call
on or address
J. H. WORD, Traveling Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
A. S. GRAHAM, Passenger and Ticket Agent, 47 St. Charles St., New Orleans.
GASTON MESLIER,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Dallas, Tex.



FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE.



YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.
Page 188.



■IfclUiM,
S% COMMERCIAL PRINTING PHOTO EMGRAVIM6 (PUUM &HALF TQHf /
) RAILROAD TICKET PRINTING MAP ENGRAV,NG |
/ BOOK fl CATALOGUE WORK WOOD BBRAVIHBV L
[(STEEL PLATE ENGRAVING & P5NTIN' ELECTROTYTW&STEm1nPINB j)
'BINDIN6&BLJWKB00K MANttnunURWC STATIONERY aOfflCE^
^ LITHOGRAPHING ... y SUPPLIES ^A


FORTY MILE TANGENT. 25
ing them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from
the sandy bed. The streams are generally very shallow in the fall
and winter. The South Fork, above North Platte, of late years is
often dry for months in the summer, owing to the water being all
turned into the irrigating canals of Colorado.
Sehuyler—[Pop., 3-000; from Fremont, 29 miles].—Is the seat of Col-
fax county. Does a large business in wheat shipments, and is a
growing and enterprising town.
Connect1ons by rail are Burlington & Missouri River railroad.
CollimbUS—[Pop., 4,000; from Schuyler, 16 miles; Omaha, 91 miles].
It is the seat of Platte county. In 1864 it was the frontier town
in Nebraska — there were few settlers beyond.
Columbus — from its location in the midst of the finest agricul-
tural lands in the Platte valley, with the rich valleys of the Loup
and Elkhorn, on the north, reached by rail, has advantages that
will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabi-
tant.
In the "sixties" Mr. George Francis Train called Columbus
the geographical centre of the United States, and advocated the
removal of the National Capitol to this place. But we fear the
removal will not come in our time, so we shall not buy any corner
lots on the strength of the possibility.
Connect1ons—Omaha & Republ1can Valley—The Norfolk branch runs
north from Columbus, 50 miles to Norfolk, on the Elkhorn river, in the midst
of as rich a farming section as can be found in the state.
At Oconee, nine miles from Columbus, a branch turns westward to Genoa
11 miles, and to alb1on, 22 miles further.
At Genoa, a branch runs West to Cedar Rap1ds, 30 miles.
The branches aggregate 114 miles.
Also connect w1th the Burl1ngton & Missouri River railroad
After leaving Columbus Loup Fork river is crossed. This
stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte city, and runs
through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte.
Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream and its nu-
merous tributaries. These little streams water a section of coun-
try unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in
abundance is found in the valley of the Loup, consisting of deer,
antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound
in ducks and geese.
Just after crossing Loup Fork our train enters upon a tangent
40 miles in length, where the track is laid as straight as it is
possible to build a road. In going west, when the sun is low in
the horizon, it is directly ahead; and, at certain seasons of the
year, the view is very beautiful. The telegraph poles on each
side present two solid walls of timber, surmounted with endless
lines of sparkling wires, and the railroad tracks between are of
dazzling brightness. When the fields are golden with the harvest,
and the landscape at its best, this view rivals the most marvelous
stories ever conceived in childhood's fairy dream.
Passing Central C1ty, the seat of Merrick county, 41 miles
from Columbus, another run of 21 and our train stops at the best
meal station on the whole line of road.


26 GRAND ISLAND—NORTH PLATTE RIVER.
Grand Inland—[Pop., 8,000; from Omaha, 153 miles; elevation 1860
feet].—Is the seat of Hall county, and is the largest and most im-
portant business place and railroad junction on the main line of
the Union Pacific Railway west of Omaha.
At this place the railroad company have extensive machine
and repair shops, where are employed several hundred men. The
largest steam flouring mills and grain elevators in the state are
located here. There are a great number of large brick business
blocks, with stores, shops, hotels and many small manufactories of
different kinds, all of which seem to be doing a prosperous busi-
ness.
This station was named for an island in the Platte—two miles
distant—one of the largest in the river, being about 30 miles in
length by four in width.
When the railroad reached this city in 1866, buffalo were
quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the west-
ward. In the spring, these animals were wont to cross the Platte
from the Arkansas and Republican valleys, where they had win-
tered, to the northern country, returning again, sleek and fat, late
in the fall. Gradually their numbers decreased on this range,
until 1873, when they entirely disappeared. But at Julesburg, 219
miles west, a small band was seen to cross the river as late as 1876.
In 1860 immense bands were on these plains. On the south side
of the Platte, on the old emigrant road, the number was so large
that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing
the road. At Fort Kearney, on the south side of the river, in 1860,
an order was issued by the Post Commander, forbidding the
soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground.
Connect1ons by rail are: Omaha & Republ1can Valley.
From Grand Island, the " Ord" branch runs north, 21 miles, to St. Paul;
thence 24 miles to Scot1a, and 15 miles more to the end of the track at Ord,
situated on Loup Fork river, 60 miles from Grand Island.
From St. Paul, a branch runs northwest, 18 miles, to Boelus, thence 21 miles
to Loup C1ty.
From Boelus, a branch runs to the southwest—nine miles to Nantasket.
Total mileage of branches, 108.
Also connect with Burlington & Missouri River railroad.
Also St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad; from Grand Island this line runs
to the southeast and east, crossing the Platte river and reaching Hast1ngs, in
25 miles; thence 18 miles to Fa1rf1eld; thence 56 miles to Fa1rbury; thence
to Marysv1lle, 40 miles, and 113 miles more to St. Joseph, 252 miles from
Grand Island.
Leaving Grand Island, for the west, the country presents about
the same general appearance as to the east. Well cultivated farms,
and the comfortable homes of the enterprising settlers are to be
seen on all sides. To North Platte city it is 138 miles, and there
are 23 stations in that distance, located about six miles apart.
These stations vary in population from a few hundred to 9,000,
Kearney being the largest, 42 miles west of Grand Island.
North Platte R1ver.—This stream is crossed about one mile
before arriving at North Platte city. It has already been referred
to. We shall cross it again at Fort Fred Steele, 402 miles further
west. Its general characteristics are similar to those of the South
Platte.
For 125 miles up this river, the "bottom lands" are from three
to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though,
perhaps, requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this
valley, and-bands of wild horses, in 1862, were numerous.


NORTH PLATTE CITY—O'FAUON'S BLUFFS. 27
Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction, near where
the Laramie river unites with this stream.
On the west bank of the river, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow,
rendered famous by General Harney, who gained a decisive vic-
tory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago.
North Platte City—[Pop., 4,000; from Omaha, 291 miles; elevation,
2,796 feet].—Is the seat of Lincoln county, and is the headquarters
of the largest live stock interests in the state—horses, cattle and
sheep.
Settlers' homes, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and
horses are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this
place, as a stock range and shipping point, exceed all others on
the line of road.
Some of the "cattle barons" here count their herds to 20,000
and more, while scores can "round up" from 3,000 to 5,000 head.
In this country, a man that only owns a "little bunch" of 500 or
1,000 head, is counted a "poor shoat", one to be pitied.
The railroad company have a large hotel here, where all the
regular passenger trains stop 30 minutes for meals. Machine and
repair shops are also located here.
The railroad was completed to this place in November, 1866,
and until its completion to Julesburg, in June, 1867, all the freight
and supplies for the west were shipped on wagons from this place.
During that time the place was a lively town, and we might re-
mark a "red hot" town. Then, the gamblers, the roughs and scal-
awags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their pres-
ence, lived in clover—for there were hard-working, foolish men
enough in the town to afford them an easy living. When the town
began to decline, these leeches followed up the road, cursing with
their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long-
sufFering community arose in their own defense, binding them-
selves together, a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal tribunal,
took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first pro-
jection high and strong enough to sustain their worthless car-
casses. But many "moved on," and we shall hear of them again
many times before we are through.
From North Platte city our course is more to the westward,
crossing the great delta of the two rivers, 18 miles in length, and
only a few feet above highwater in the streams. It is now a
great hay meadow.
O'Fallons—[17 miles from North Platte city].—Is a lone station in
the sand hills, of little interest to the traveler, but opposite, on
the south side of the river is a point quite noted in early days.
O'Fallons Bluffs—Is a series of sand hills interspersed with
ravines and gulches, which come close to the river's bank, form-
ing abrupt bluffs which, in the early days referred to, turned the
emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand
hills, a distance of four miles, through loose yielding sand, devoid
of vegetation. Here, as well as at all points where the bluffs come
near the river, the emigrants used to suffer severely at times
from the attacks of the Indians and white outlaws.
As few single teams could haul a loaded wagon over the
"bluffs" it became necessary to "double up", leaving half the
wagons and hauling the first half across the ''hills'', and then


28 OGAU,AI,A—INDIAN WRECKERS.
come back for the second half. As a consequence, the wagons
and force of men with the train was divided and the men scat-
tered over the route, thus affording the Indians—who might be
lurking in the ravines near, but out of sight—the opportunity de-
sired to rob and murder a large party with little risk to themselves.
The opportunity offered almost every day from 1859 to 1866, and
scarcely a month passed during that time without some depreda-
tions being committed at this place.
Opposite the "bluffs" is a lovely island in the river, that was—-
until the railroad arrived—a noted camping ground for the Ara-
pahoe and Sioux Indians; it is now a fine ranch or hay meadow.
At O'Fallon's station gradual sloping bluffs appear on the
right, which rise to a uniform height of about 500 feet above the
plain that we have crossed to reach this point. These bluffs are
the extreme eastern point of a vast tract of table lands, which ex-
tend westward over 200 miles — to the Black hills of Wyoming—
varying in width to 35 miles. There are no living streams travers-
ing these lands but fine springs of water can be found near the
head of some of the dry ravines which tend, north and south, to
the two Platte rivers—which receive the drainage of this entire
plateau. All the excellent grasses peculiar to the west cover these
table lands, which in early days abounded with game—buffalo,
deer, elk, antelope, etc., and bands of wild horses. It is now a
stock range, with an occasional settler, "tickling" the ground;
which '' tickling,'' if water could be had for irrigation, would repay
the settler with an abundant harvest. Yet, from recent observa-
tions in a section of country where the soil is similar, and where
wheat yields from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, without rain or irri-
gation, I am of the opinion that a system of husbandry adapted
to the peculiar soil of these table lands, will result in a similar yield
of wheat ; and, that these lands are destined, at no distant day, to
become the most valuable and productive wheat lands east of the
Rocky mountains.
leaving O'Fallons, we leave the agricultural section and enter
the grazing regions, which are almost exclusively devoted to stock-
raising—cattle and sheep.
Our train soon reaches the river bottom and rolls along past
a number of small, stations, the bluffs on the right, in places,
crowding us to the river bank.
Os;:ill:il:i—[Pop.,6o0; fromO'Fallons, 34 miles; elevation/3,207 feet].—Is
the seat of Kieth county. The citizens are very generally engaged
in raising cattle; few attempt any agricultural pursuits further
than a little "garden sass."
Wreck1ng a Tra1n—Near this station, in 1870, at a point
where the railroad makes a short curve near the bank of the river
and crosses the mouth of a deep ravine coming down from the
bluffs, on the right, a party of Indians attempted to wreck a pas-
senger train. They gathered a band of their ponies in the ravine
near the track, out of sight, and then watched the coming of the
train. As it neared the ravine the Indians massed their ponies on
the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or
more of the ponies were killed without damaging the train, while
the trainmen used their pistols and guns pretty freely on the Indi-
ans, who were apparently greatly surprised, and who since call
the locomotive—" Smoke wagon—big chief—ugh!! No good!"


BIG SPRINGS—JULESBURG. 29
We follow along the river with little of interest to note.
Big S|>rillgfi—[Pop.,250; from Ogallala, 19 miles; elevation, 3,361 feet].
This station derives its name from a large spring—the first found
along the road—which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station
on the right, in view from the cars. The water is excellent—the
best along the road.
Robbers—It was at this station where the " Big Springs rob-
bery" took place, September 18, 1877. A party of 12 masked
men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the men,
cut the telegraph wires, and when the western train arrived, took
possession of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of "hands
up." The robbers secured $65,000 from the express car, $1,300
and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted their horses,
that had been hitched near by, and allowed the train to proceed.
No person was killed or injured, but all experienced much diffi-
culty for days, in getting their hair to lay down; and, it is said,
among the railroad men, that even now a sudden shout "hands
up," in the hearing of that express messenger, will send his hat up
three feet from his head, and his eyes will resemble two large
round cobble-stones, so plentiful in the Rockies.
Immediately after the robbery, a reward of $10,000 was offered
for the arrest of the perpetrators. Three were caught soon after and
paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one half the
money was recovered with the three caught, and we have heard
that the other half has been recovered and the rest of the robbers
caught and sent "over the range." QtiiSn Sabef
On the south side of the river, opposite, in plain view, is the old
ranch and trading post of the- noted Indian trader and Peace
Commissioner—Beauve—now deserted.
Rolling on, .we pass by a series of cuts and fills and another
range of sand bluffs, cut up by narrow ravines and gorges. At
points the roads run so near the river bank, that the water seems
to be right under the cars.
JtllCSblirg—[Pop., 600; from Big Springs, n miles; from Omaha, 375
miles; Denver, 197 miles; Cheyenne, 144 miles; elevation, 3,456 feet] Is in
Logan county, Colorado. The old town of Julesburg was situated
about one mile west, on the opposite, or south side of the Platte
river. The Julesburg of 1867 was on Lodge Pole creek five miles
west and four miles north of the Platte—now called "Weir." The
present Julesburg, until recently, was called "Denver Junction."
The name of "Julesburg" was given for a Mr. Jules Burg—that
lived at the old town in 1860-1—a desperado who "died with his
boots on."
Stock-raising is about the only occupation of the settlers in this
vicinity.
Ma1l—Hack leaves Julesburg every week for Fro1d 16 miles
north.
Denver Short L1ne, branch of the Union Pacific railway,
leaves the main line at Julesburg, and runs on up the Platte river
to Denver, 197 miles, while the main line leaves the river here,
and turns up Lodge Pole creek, 144 miles to Cheyenne. We will
continue on the main line to Cheyenne, and then return to Jules-
burg and take up the "Short Line " to Denver.
Passenger—"Conductor, do we stop long enough at the next station to eat a
sandwich?"
Conductor—"No, sir; we only stop twenty minutes!"


30
SIDNEY—PONY EXPRESS.
At Julesburg a number of cars destined for Denver are left for
the "Short Line" to pick up, and our train starts again for the
west that much lighter. Turning up Lodge Pole creek—passing
four small unimportant stations—we reach a regular meal station
at
SKlllCy—[Pop., 1,500; from Julesburg, 42 miles; Cheyenne, 102 miles; ele-
vation 4,090 feet].—Is the seat of Cheyenne county, one of the extreme
western counties of Nebraska. It contains several good brick busi-
ness blocks and stores, and shops of all kinds. The chief support
of the place is derived from stock-raising; yet there are quite a
number of settlers in the vicinity engaged in agricultural pursuits.
Sidney, until recent railroad facilities were afforded the Black
Hills country to the northward, by a line from the east, was the
outfitting and freight shipping point for all of that country.
Then, daily four-horse coaches left Sidney, carrying passengers,
mails and express. Those were lively times for the town.
Fort S1dney.—In 1870 the government established a military
post at this place, and erected extensive barracks and warehouses.
The post is on the south side of the track, a little east of the sta-
tion, and is in command of Col. H. A. Morrow. It is the head-
quarters of the 21st Infantry, and garrisoned by A, C, E, G, and I
companies.
Connect1ons — Mail hack leaves Sidney once a week for Gorman, ten
miles south. Also, north for Red1ngton, 40 miles; Camp Clark, eight miles,
and Wellsv1lle, two miles, three times a week.

OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS.
The Pony Express—Was an enterprise started in 1860, by
Majors , Russell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the press-
ing business wants of the Pacific coast, It will be remembered
that the usual time made on the mail service, by steamer,


PRAIRIE DOGS. 31
between New York and San Francisco, was about 26 days. The
first overland mail—which arrived in San Francisco Oct. 10th,
1858—carried it from St. Louis, Mo., via Los Angeles, in 23 days,
21 hours. The Pony Express, which left St. Joseph, Mo., and
San Francisco, simultaneously, April 3d, 1860, succeeded in trans-
porting it through safely, on its first trip, in ten days; on its
second, in 14 days; third, nine days; fourth, ten days; fifth, nine
days; sixth, nine days—a distance of 1,996 miles. This rapid
transmission of business correspondence was of great value
to business men in those days.
This service, we can readily see, required courage and endur-
ance, as well as enterprise and the expenditure of large sums of
money. The moment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite
shore, the pony expressman mounted his horse; and by day or
by night, in starlight or darkness; whether sun-dried or soaked,
snow-covered or frozen; among friends or through foes; be he
lonely or merry—onward he hasteneth, until, at the thrice-wel-
comed station, he leaped from his saddle to rest. Here another
was ready—whose horse, like himself, had been waiting, perhaps,
without shelter—and with a cheery '' Good-night, boys," he gal-
loped off, and was soon lost in the distance. He rides on alone,
over prairies and mountains; whether up hill or down; on rough
ground or smooth, until he espies in the distance the goal of his
hopes, and the station is reached. To tell of the losses of men
from the Indians, and of horses and other property, both from
volunteers as well as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures
of those who participated in this daring enterprise, however inter-
esting, would make too long a recital for these pages. The late
James A. Moore, the first "post trader" at Sidney—one of the
old pioneers on the plains—was the first rider of the pony express,
who made the most remarkable ride on record, particularly so, i f
the condition of the trail and country was considered. "Jim"
was at Midway station [south side of the Platte] June 8th, 1860,
when a very important government dispatch arrived for the Pacific
coast. Mounting his pony he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis-
tant, where, on arriving, he met a return dispatchyVow the Pacific,
equally important [the rider that should have carried the dispatch
east had been killed by the Indians the day before]; resting only
seven minutes, and, without eating, returned to Midway, making the
"roundlrip"—280miles—in 14 hours and 46 minutes. Thedispatch
reached Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine
hours and 40 minutes.
ggf That dispatch relievedGeneral Albert Sidney Johnston from
the command of the Army of the Pacific, and saved the Coast
to the Union.
Leaving Sidney—19 miles to Potter, we find about 200 settlers,
and a few miles further—an immense population of ——
Pra1r1e Dogs — Their city occupies some thousand or more
acres. Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in
the top, from a foot to a foot and a half high, raised by the dirt
excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these
animals can be seen scampering for their houses; arrived there,
they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at
tn^ train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down
they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead.


22 VALLEY AND CONNECTIONS.
ment, and walked the platform of Cooper Union, in New York.
He is now on a reservation, taking his rations regularly. It was on
Pole creek, near Sidney, during the construction of this railroad.
But those trying times have passed, never to return. The buffalo
is gone, the Indian has gone from the trail, yet the word "fare-
well" is ever a sad reminder of the past; so, if we sometimes con-
trast the present with the past, could one marvel?
Leaving Omaha, our train climbs the world over 100 feet in the
first four miles. We pass in that distance large grain elevators,
great lumber yards, warehouses, manufactories of different kinds,
government store-houses, and the monster stock yards and pack-
ing houses of South Omaha. From this point our descent is rapid,
dropping down 157 feet in the next six miles, to Gilmore, or to an
altitude of 985 feet above sea level, the lowest point on the whole
line.
From Gilmore our iron horse will have gradual up grade to
to Sherman, 539 miles, the highest elevation on the main overland
line, 8,247 feet above sea level; but, before we are through with
this Tour, we will stand on the highest point ever reached by a
railroad train in the world, 11,596 feet above sea level.
Papillion — (Pap-e-o)—-15 miles from Omaha is a small
station on the river of that name, in the midst of of a thaifty farm-
ing community. In the next two miles we pass under the track
of the Missouri Pacific railroad, and proceeding, cross the Elk-
horn river, 11 miles beyond.
The Elkhorn river is nearly 300 miles in length. It rises among-
the hills of the divide, near the head-waters of the Niobrara. It
is the oldest settled portion of the state of Nebraska, north of the
Platte river. The valley of the Elkhorn averages about eight
miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. The
settlers are mostly Germans of the thrifty class, with good houses,
fine orchards of fruits, well cultivated farms, and comfortable and
pleasant surroundings.
Valley — Is a junction station, six miles west of Elkhorn, and
35 miles from Omaha, situated on the Platte river bottom, sur-
rounded by farms, where the principal products are corn and hay.
Connect1ons by rail are: Omaha & Republ1can Valley branch of the
Union Pacific railway. It commences at Valley station, and runs in a south-
western direction crossing the Platte river within a few miles. Wahoo is
reached in a run of 18 miles, and 19 miles further Valpara1so — where turning
south 20 miles brings us to L1ncoln, the capital of the state of Nebraska.
From Lincoln it is 40 miles to Beatr1ce, and 37 miles more to Marysv1lle
— in the state of Kansas. Continuing south on the same branch, it is 56 miles
to Manhattan, on the Kansas division of the Union Pacific, 225 miles from
Omaha.
O. & R. V.— Stromsburg branch — runs west from Valparaiso, and reaches
Dav1d C1ty in 23 miles, and Stromsburg in 34 miles further—128 miles
from Omaha.
The line turns south from Stromsburg, reaching York in 17 miles, and
McCool Junct1on, eight miles further.
The Fairbury line leaves the "junction," and runs southeast 56 miles to
Fa1rbury, where connections are made with the St. Joseph & Grand Island
railroad. From Fairbury it is 40 miles to Marysville, 153 miles to St. Joseph,
and 99 miles to Grand Island.
The Alma line leaves the "junction," runs southwest, through SUTTON,
and Clay Center, 39 miles to Fa1rf1eld, where connections are made with
the St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad, by which it is 56 miles to Fairbury; 06
miles to Marysville; 209 miles to St. Joseph, and 43 miles to Grand Island.-At Fair-
field, the Alma line runs southwest via W1lcox —97 miles—to Alma, 280 miles
from Omaha.
B. asks, "Does it pay to be good?" It does when the business becomes fully
established, but you've got to sink a great deal of money in the start.


STOCK FEEDING—PLATTE RIVER. 23
The whole country, tributary to these "branches," is thickly
settled -with thrifty farmers, and the lands are very rich, and capa-
ble of producing all kinds of farm produce in abundance, and to
perfection. However, corn is the principal crop, and raising and
fattening hogs, the chief source of wealth — corn and hogs are the
staples, and hog and hominy the diet — yet, if one should call
the people "hoggish" they would all bristle up at once.
FremOlll—[Pop., 7,000; from Valley, 12 miles; Omaha, 46 miles; eleva-
tion 1,192].—Is the seat of Dodge county, situated in the midst of the
richest and most productive portion of the Platte valley, which
here stretches away in all directions as far as the eye can reach.
The city is provided with all the modern improvements, and is the
seat of much wealth. Besides the Union Pacific, it is connected
with the northeast country by the Fremont, Elkhorn & Missouri
Valley railroad.
Stock Feed1ng—For 300 miles west of Omaha, on the line of
the Union Pacific road, within the last few years, stock feeding
has become a very important and profitable business. The rapid
settlement of the eastern and central portions of Nebraska since
the completion of the various railroad lines traversing it, has grad-
ually contracted the public ranges until, at the present time, all
the '' range cattle '' are crowded into the western part of the state,
and into Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Montana. Feed-
ing ranches or stations, have been established at many points along
the line of the railroad, where stock from the western ranges are
received by train loads and fed and fattened for the eastern markets.
Many of these feeding places are close to the railroad, with side-
track accommodations for loading and unloading. They consist
of a number of large buildings for storing feed, long sheds, and
numerous corrals for stock. In the corrals are many long troughs
for feed and others for fresh water. A few of these places are
very extensive, and fitted up without regard to cost. Some are
owned by those who are engaged in raising range stock in the
west, while others are owned by those who buy cattle, sheep, etc.,
where they can do the best. The stock is shipped from the west
to these feeding places, and fed with hay, corn and other fattening
feed until they are in a satisfactory condition, when they are
shipped to the eastern markets—to Omaha, Kansas City, Chi-
cago, etc.
To the farming community the establishment of these "feed-
ing" stations has brought joy. They no longer burn their corn
for fuel, but raise and gather all they can, and they find a ready
cash market at home for all their hay, corn and feed. While
wheat is yet an important crop, and all kinds of grain and vegeta-
bles can be grown successfully in all parts of the state, east of
North Platte city, corn and hay are the chief staples on which
the farmer must always depend to bring him the largest and quick-
est returns for his investment and labor, as "feeding" stations are
sure to multiply rapidly in the near future, as the "range" is
crowded still further west by the rapid settlement of the country.
The PLATTE R1ver—Leaving Fremont, we draw near the
Platte river, and are fairly launched on the broad plains of
Nebraska. For 326 miles we shall follow the course of the river,
and for many miles shall pass closely along its northern bank; at


24 YE OI.DEN TIMES.
other times the course of the river can only be traced by the tim-
ber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features
now, dotted here and there with * planted groves of cottonwood
trees, in the midst of which may be seen the settler's home, sur-
rounded by his fields and industries.
Before the railroad, the south bank of the Platte was one broad
thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of freighters and emigrants
with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away
for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Then it was, that
these plains were covered with buffalo, antelope, deer and smaller
game, and infested by white outlaws, squaw-men and bloodthirsty
Indians. At that time there was no travel on the north side of the
river below Big Springs station, but beyond that station, the trav-
eler of to-day can catch a glimpse here and there of a lone grave,
marked by a rude head-board; and, had he time, opportunity and
skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which
it is decorated, he will learn that it marks the last resting place of
some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickt1ess, laid down
here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave
it; or, perchance, he will learn that the tenant of this lone grave
fell while defending his wife and family from the savages who
attacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. There is a
sad, brief history connected with each, told to the passer-by, may-
haps in rude lines, possibly by the broken arrow or bow, rudely
drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the
early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them
that they neglected the sick or dead within the train. The sick
were tenderly nursed, and the dead decently buried, and their
graves marked by the men who had shared with them the perils of
the trip. Those were the days, and these plains the place that tried
men's mettle ; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to
all others who ventured to cross the " vast desert'' which stretched
its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires.
Brave, cool and wary as the savage, with his unerring rifle on his
arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he might en-
counter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an
invaluable aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter foe. This
type of people is fast passing away.
The Platte river rises in the mountains of Colorado — the
South Fork in the South Park and the North Fork in the North
Park — while the South Fork runs nearly east, the North Fork
runs north, for over 100 miles, and then turns eastward and south-
ward and unites with the South Fork, near North Platte city. The
channels in these rivers, during high water, is continually shifting,
caused by the vast quantity of sand which is continually floating
down their muddy tides. The sand is very treacherous, too, and
woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross before he has be-
come acquainted with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced
to the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous
task. In crossing, in the old freighting days, if anything went
wrong, and the train come to a stop, down it would sink in the
yielding quicksand, until the wagons were so firmly bedded that it
required more than double the original force to pull them out; and
often they must be unloaded to prevent the united teams from pull-
* Before the railroad there was not a tree growing on the plains except along
the bed of the streams.



00L
(gLIAVES
ln »0p0L0RAD0.

> PEAKING of spring reminds us that summer is not far
away. And now, while we are on the subject of sum-
mer, it might be timely to say something about the
annual summer trip which we all expect to take. Where to go,
how to go, and what to wear, will be the absorbing questions for
some weeks to come. The latter part of the question will concern
the ladies most, and it is safe to say that they will solve it in their
usual fascinating and bewitching manner. The summer girl will
be there arrayed in all her gowns and her glory.
Then must be decided the more momentous part of the ques-
tion—where to go. In this connection, it might be pertinent to
ask, What's the matter with Colorado? You can read the
answer in her eternal mountains and snow-capped peaks, which
hold their lofty heads among the clouds; in her dark and sunless
caiions, where daylight struggles vainly with the gloom, and
sends no ray to light the damp and cheerless caverns; in her
r ashing rivers and resounding waterfalls, which find their sources
in perpetual snow fields, and flow forever toward the sea; in her
mineral springs whose healing waters gush in gentle streamlets
from her mountain sides or pour in volumes from their caverns;
in her gardens and parks of wonders of grotesque shapes and
monstrous formations; in her grand scenery which surpasses that
of the far-famed Alps, and holds the traveler entranced, lost in
admiration of its wild beauty and panoramic enchantment; in
her glorious climate which surpasses all in salubrity and fitness
for a summer retreat. In these read the answer: There is no
place like Colorado. And if you would get there smoothly,
quickly and comfortably, take the short and popular
texas isoi-then Te>as?
& "*"""*" Ha \ Tas
PACIFIC ™^GH and
RAILWAY '**' Poi-t Worth-
For further information as to rates and routes, call
on or address
J. H. WORD, Traveling Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
A. S. GRAHAM, Passenger and Ticket Agent, 47 St. Charles St., New Orleans.
GASTON MESLIER,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent, Dallas, Tex.





VELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PRRK.
PAGE 188.



RAILROAD TICKET PRINTING
BOOK ft CATALOGUE WORK
MAP ENGRAVING
WOOD ENGRAVING
J N0ING&BL4NKB00K MANUFACTURING MmOKBYfiOmCE


FORTY MILE TANGENT. 25
ing them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from
the sandy bed. The streams are generally very shallow in the fall
and winter. The South Fork, above North Platte, of late years is
often dry for months in the summer, owing to the water being all
turned into the irrigating canals of Colorado.
Sehuyler—[Pop., ioo0; from Fremont, 29 miles].—Is the seat of Col-
fax county. Does a large business in wheat shipments, and is a
growing and enterprising town.
Connect1ons by rail are Burlington & Missouri River railroad.
Columt>lls—[Pop., 4,000; from Schuyler, 16 miles; Omaha, 91 miles].
It is the seat of Platte county. In 1864 it was the frontier town
in Nebraska — there were few settlers beyond.
Columbus — from its location in the midst of the finest agricul-
tural lands in the Platte valley, with the rich valleys of the Loup
and Elkhorn, on the north, reached by rail, has advantages that
will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabi-
tant.
In the "sixties" Mr. George Francis Train called Columbus
the geographical centre of the United States, and advocated the
removal of the National Capitol to this place. But we fear the
removal will not come in our time, so we shall not buy any corner
lots on the strength of the possibility.
Connect1ons—Omaha & Republ1can Valley—The Norfolk branch runs
north from Columbus, 50 miles to Norfolk, on the Elkhorn river, in the midst
of as rich a farming section as can be found in the state.
At Oconee, nine miles from Columbus, a branch turns westward to Genoa
11 miles, and to ALBIOn, 22 miles further.
At Genoa, a branch runs West to Cedar Rap1ds, 30 miles.
The branches aggregate 114 miles.
Also connect w1th the Burl1ngton & Missouri River railroad
After leaving Columbus Loup Fork river is crossed. This
stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte city, and runs
through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte.
Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream and its nu-
merous tributaries. These little streams water a section of coun-
try unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in
abundance is found in the valley of the Loup, consisting of deer,
antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound
in ducks and geese.
Just after crossing Loup Fork our train enters upon a tangent
40 miles in length, where the track is laid as straight as it is
possible to build a road. In going west, when the sun is low in
the horizon, it is directly ahead; and, at certain seasons of the
year, the view is very beautiful. The telegraph poles on each
side present two solid walls of timber, surmounted with endless
lines of sparkling wires, and the railroad tracks between are of
dazzling brightness. When the fields are golden with the harvest,
and the landscape at its best, this view rivals the most marvelous
stories ever conceived in childhood's fairy dream.
Passing CENTRAl C1ty, the seat of Merrick county, 41 miles
from Columbus, another run of 21 and our train stops at the best
meal station on the whole line of road.


26 GRAND ISLAND—NORTH PLATTE RIVER.
Grand Island—[Pop., 8,000; from Omaha, 153 miles; elevation 1860
feet].—Is the seat of Hall county, and is the largest and most im-
portant business place and railroad junction on the main line of
the Union Pacific Railway west of Omaha.
At this place the railroad company have extensive machine
and repair shops, where are employed several hundred men. The
largest steam flouring mills and grain elevators in the state are
located here. There are a great number of large brick business
blocks, with stores, shops, hotels and many small manufactories of
different kinds, all of which seem to be doing a prosperous busi-
ness.
This station was named for an island in the Platte—two miles
distant—one of the largest in the river, being about 30 miles in
length by four in width.
When the railroad reached this city in 1866, buffalo were
quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the west-
ward. In the spring, these animals were wont to cross the Platte
from the Arkansas and Republican valleys, where they had win-
tered, to the northern country, returning again, sleek and fat, late
in the fall. Gradually their numbers decreased on this range,
until 1873, when they entirely disappeared. But at Julesburg, 219
miles west, a small band was seen to cross the river as late as 1876.
In 1860 immense bands were on these plains. On the south side
of the Platte, on the old emigrant road, the number was so large
that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing
the road. At Fort Kearney, on the south side of the river, in 1860,
an order was issued by the Post Commander, forbidding the
soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground.
Connect1ons by rail are: Omaha & Republ1can Valley.
From Grand Island, the " Ord" branch runs north, 21 miles, to St. Paul;
thence 24 miles to Scot1a, and 15 miles more to the end of the track at Ord,
situated on Loup Fork river, 60 miles from Grand Island.
From St. Paul, a branch runs northwest, 18 miles, to Boelus, thence 21 miles
to Loup C1ty.
From Boelus, a branch runs to the southwest—nine miles to Nantasket.
Total mileage of branches, 108.
Also connect with Burlington & Missouri River railroad.
Also St. Joseph & Grand Island railroad; from Grand Island this line runs
to the southeast and east, crossing the Platte river and reaching Hast1ngs, in
25 miles; thence 18 miles to Fa1rf1eld; thence 56 miles to Fa1rbury; thence
to Marysv1lle, 40 miles, and 113 miles more to St. Joseph, 252 miles from
Grand Island.
Leaving Grand Island, for the west, the country presents about
the same general appearance as to the east. Well cultivated farms,
and the comfortable homes of the enterprising settlers are to be
seen on all sides. To North Platte city it is 138 miles, and there
are 23 stations in that distance, located about six miles apart.
These stations vary in population from a few hundred to 9,000,
Kearney being the largest, 42 miles west of Grand Island.
North PlatTE R1ver.—This stream is crossed about one mile
before arriving at North Platte city. It has already been referred
to. We shall cross it again at Fort Fred Steele, 402 miles further
west. Its general characteristics are similar to those of the South
Platte.
For 125 miles up this river, the "bottom lands" are from three
to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though,
perhaps, requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this
valley, and-bands of wild horses, in 1862, were numerous.


NORTH PLATTE CITY—O'FALLON'S BLUFFS. 27
Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction, near where
the Laramie river unites with this stream.
On the west bank of the river, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow,
rendered famous by General Harney, who gained a decisive vic-
tory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago.
North PlattC City—[Pop., 4,000; from Omaha, 291 miles; elevation,
2,796 feet].—Is the seat of Lincoln county, and is the headquarters
of the largest live stock interests in the state—horses, cattle and
sheep.
Settlers' homes, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and
horses are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this
place, as a stock range and shipping point, exceed all others on
the line of road.
Some of the "cattle barons" here count their herds to 20,000
and more, while scores can "round up" from 3,000 to 5,000 head.
In this country, a man that only owns a "little bunch" of 500 or
1,000 head, is counted a "poor shoat", one to be pitied.
The railroad company have a large hotel here, where all the
regular passenger trains stop 30 minutes for meals. Machine and
repair shops are also located here.
The railroad was completed to this place in November, 1866,
and until its completion to Julesburg, in June, 1867, all the freight
and supplies for the west were shipped on wagons from this place.
During that time the place was a lively town, and we might re-
mark a "red hot" town. Then, the gamblers, the roughs and scal-
awags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their pres-
ence, lived in clover—for there were hard-working, foolish men
enough in the town to afford them an easy living. When the town
began to decline, these leeches followed up the road, cursing with
their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long-
suffering community arose in their own defense, binding them-
selves together, a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal tribunal,
took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first pro-
jection high and strong enough to sustain their worthless car-
casses. But many "moved on," and we shall hear of them again
many times before we are through.
From North Platte city our course is more to the westward,
crossing the great delta of the two rivers, 18 miles in length, and
only a few feet above highwater in the streams. It is now a
great hay meadow.
O'FallOllS—[17 miles from North Platte city].—Is a lone Station in
the sand hills, of little interest to the traveler, but opposite, on
the south side of the river is a point quite noted in early days.
O'FALLONS Bluffs—Is a series of sand hills interspersed with
ravines and gulches, which come close to the river's bank, form-
ing abrupt bluffs which, in the early days referred to, turned the
emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand
hills, a distance of four miles, through loose yielding sand, devoid
of vegetation. Here, as well as at all points where the bluffs come
near the river, the emigrants used to suffer severely at times
from the attacks of the Indians and white outlaws.
As few single teams could haul a loaded wagon over the
"bluffs" it became necessary to "double up", leaving half the
wagons and hauling the first half across the "hills", and then


28 OGALLAlvA—INDIAN WRECKERS.
come back for the second half. As a consequence, the wagons
and force of men with the train was divided and the men scat-
tered over the route, thus affording the Indians—who might be
lurking in the ravines near, but out of sight—the opportunity de-
sired to rob and murder a large party with little risk to themselves.
The opportunity offered almost every day from 1859 to 1866, and
scarcely a month passed during that time without some depreda-
tions being committed at this place.
Opposite the "bluffs" is a lovely island in the river, that was—
until the railroad arrived—a noted camping ground for the Ara*
pahoe and Sioux Indians; it is now a fine ranch or hay meadow.
At O'Fallon's station gradual sloping bluffs appear on the
right, which rise to a uniform height of about 500 feet above the
plain that we have crossed to reach this point. These bluffs are
the extreme eastern point of a vast tract of table lands, which ex-
tend westward over 200 miles — to the Black hills of Wyoming—
varying in width to 35 miles. There are no living streams travers-
ing these lands but fine springs of water can be found near the
head of some of the dry ravines which tend, north and south, to
the two Platte rivers—which receive the drainage of this entire
plateau. All the excellent grasses peculiar to the west cover these
table lands, which in early days abounded with game—buffalo,
deer, elk, antelope, etc., and bauds of wild horses. It is now a
stock range, with an occasional settler, '' tickling '' the ground;
which '' tickling,'' if water could be had for irrigation, would repay
the settler with an abundant harvest. Yet, from recent observa-
tions in a section of country where the soil is similar, and where
wheat yields from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, without rain or irri-
galion, I am of the opinion that a system of husbandry adapted
to the peculiar soil of these table lands, will result in a similar yield
of wheat; and, that these lands are destined, at no distant day, to
become the most valuable and productive wheat lands east of the
Rocky mountains.
Leaving O'Fallons, we leave the agricultural section and enter
the grazing regions, which are almost exclusively devoted to stock-
raising—cattle and sheep.
Our train soon reaches the river bottom and rolls along past
a number of small, stations, the bluffs on the right, in places,
crowding us to the river bank.
Ojfilllsilsi—[Pop.,6o0; from O'Fallons, 34 miles; elevation, 3,207 feet].—Is
the seat of Kieth county. The citizens are very generally engaged
in raising cattle; few attempt any agricultural pursuits further
than a little "garden sass."
Wreck1ng a Tra1n—Near this station, in 1870, at a point
where the railroad makes a short curve near the bank of the river
and crosses the mouth of a deep ravine coming down from the
bluffs, on the right, a party of Indians attempted to wreck a pas-
senger train. They gathered a band of their ponies in the ravine
near the track, out of sight, and then watched the coming of the
train. As it neared the ravine the Indians massed their ponies on
the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or
more of the ponies were killed without damaging the train, while
the trainmen used their pistols and guns pretty freely on the Indi-
ans, who were apparently greatly surprised, and who since call
the locomotive—" Smoke wagon—big chief—ugh!! No good!"


BIG SPRINGS—JTCESBURG. 29
We follow along the river with little of interest to note.
Big Springs—[Pop., 250; from Ogallala, 19 miles; elevation, 3,361 feet].
This station derives its name from a large spring—the first found
along the road—which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station
on the right, in view from the cars. The water is excellent—the
best along the road.
Robbers—It was at this station where the " Big Springs rob-
bery" took place, September 18, 1877. A party of 12 masked
men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the men,
cut the telegraph wires, and when the western train arrived, took
possession of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of "hands
up." The robbers secured $65,000 from the express car, $1,300
and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted their horses,
that had been hitched near by, and allowed the train to proceed.
No person was killed or injured, but all experienced much diffi-
culty for days, in getting their hair to lay down; and, it is said,
among the railroad men, that even now a sudden shout "hands
up," in the hearing of that express messenger, will send his hat up
three feet from his head, and his eyes will resemble two large
round cobble-stones, so plentiful in the Rockies.
Immediately after the robbery, a reward of $10,000 was offered
for the arrest of the perpetrators. Three were caught soon after and
paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one half the
money was recovered with the three caught, and we have heard
that the other half has been recovered and the rest of the robbers
caught and sent "over the range." Q1itin Sabe?
On the south side of the river, opposite, in plain view, is the old
ranch and trading post of the noted Indian trader and Peace
Commissioner—Beauve—now deserted.
Rolling on, .we pass by a series of cuts and fills and another
range of sand bluffs, cut up by narrow ravines and gorges. At
points the roads run so near the river bank, that the water seems
to be right under the cars.
JlllCSblirg—[Pop., 600; from Big Springs, 11 miles; from Omaha, 375
miles; Denver, 197 miles; Cheyenne, 144 miles; elevation, 3,456 feet] Is in
Logan county, Colorado. The old town of Julesburg was situated
about one mile west, on the opposite, or south side of the Platte
river. The Julesburg of 1867 was on Lodge Pole creek five miles
west and four miles north of the Platte—now called " Weir." The
present Julesburg, until recently, was called "Denver Junction."
The name of "Julesburg" was given for a Mr. Jules Burg—that
lived at the old town in 1860-1—a desperado who "died with his
boots on."
Stock-raising is about the only occupation of the settlers in this
vicinity.
Ma11,—Hack leaves Julesburg every week for Fro1d 16 miles
north.
Denver Short L1ne, branch of the Union Pacific railway,
leaves the main line at Julesburg, and runs on up the Platte river
to Denver, 197 miles, while the main line leaves the river here,
and turns up Lodge Pole creek, 144 miles to Cheyenne. We will
continue on the main line to Cheyenne, and then return to Jules-
burg and take up the "Short Line " to Denver.
Passenger—"Conductor, do we stop long enough at the next station to eat a
sandwich?"
Conductor—"No, sir; we only stop twenty m1nutes!"


30
SIDNEY—PONY EXPRESS.
At Julesburg a number of cars destined for Denver are left for
the "Short Line" to pick up, and our train starts again for the
west that much lighter. Turning up Lodge Pole creek—passing
four small unimportant stations—we reach a regular meal station
at
SiUllCy—[Pop., 1,500; from Julesburg, 42 miles; Cheyenne, 102 miles; ele-
vation 4,090 feet].—Is the seat of Cheyenne county, one of the extreme
western counties of Nebraska. It contains several good brick busi-
ness blocks and stores, and shops of all kinds. The chief support
of the place is derived from stock-raising; yet there are quite a
number of settlers in the vicinity engaged in agricultural pursuits.
Sidney, until recent railroad facilities were afforded the Black
Hills country to the northward, by a line from the east, was the
outfitting and freight shipping point for all of that country.
Then, daily four-horse coaches left Sidney, carrying passengers,
mails and express. Those were lively times for the town.
Fort S1dney.—In 1870 the government established a military
post at this place, and erected extensive barracks and warehouses.
The post is on the south side of the track, a little east of the sta-
tion, and is in command of Col. H. A. Morrow. It is the head-
quarters of the 21st Infantry, and garrisoned by A, C, E, G, and I
companies. -
Connect1ons — Mail hack leaves Sidney once a week for Gorman, ten
miles south. Also, north for Red1ngton, 40 miles; Camp Clark, eight miles,
and "Wellsv1lle, two miles, three times a week.

OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS.
The Pony Express—Was an enterprise started in 1860, by
Majors , Russell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the press-
ing business wants of the Pacific coast. It will be remembered
that the usual time made on the mail service, by steamer,


PRAIRIE DOGS. 31
between New York and San Francisco, was about 26 days. The
first overland mail—which arrived in San Francisco Oct. 10th,
1858—carried it from St. Louis, Mo., via Los Angeles, in 23 days,
21 hours. The Pony Express, which left St. Joseph, Mo., and
San Francisco, simultaneously, April 3d, 1860, succeeded in trans-
porting it through safely, on its first trip, in ten days; on its
second, in 14 days; third, nine days; fourth, ten days; fifth, nine
days; sixth, nine days—a distance of 1,996 miles. This rapid
transmission of business correspondence was of great value
to business men in those days.
This service, we can readily see, required courage and endur-
ance, as well as enterprise and the expenditure of large sums of
money. The moment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite
shore, the pony expressman mounted his horse; and by day or
by night, in starlight or darkness; whether sun-dried or soaked,
snow-covered or frozen; among friends or through foes; be he
lonely or merry—onward he hasteneth, until, at the thrice-wel-
comed station, he leaped from his saddle to rest. Here another
was ready—whose horse, like himself, had been waiting, perhaps,
without shelter—and with a cheery '' Good-night, boys," he gal-
loped off, and was soon lost in the distance. He rides on alone,
over prairies and mountains; whether up hill or down; on rough
ground or smooth, until he espies in the distance the goal of his
hopes, and the station is reached. To tell of the losses of men
from the Indians, and of horses and other property, both from
volunteers as well as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures
of those who participated in this daring enterprise, however inter-
esting, would make too long a recital for these pages. The late
James A. Moore, the first "post trader" at Sidney—one of the
old pioneers on the plains—was the first rider of the pony express,
who made the most remarkable ride on record, particularly so, if
the condition of the trail and country was considered. "Jim"
was at Midway station [south side of the Platte] June 8th, 1860,
when a very important government dispatch arrived for the Pacific
coast. Mounting his pony he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis-
tant, where, on arriving, he met a return dispatchyVow the Pacific,
equally important [the rider that should have carried the dispatch
east had been killed by the Indians the day before]; resting only
seven minutes, and, without eating, returned to Midway, making the
"round trip"—280 miles—in 14 hours and 46 minutes. The dispatch
reached Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine
hours and 40 minutes.
8®" That dispatch relievedGeneral Albert Sidney Johnston from
the command of the Army of the Pacific, and saved the Coast
to the Union.
Lgaving Sidney—19 miles to Potter, we find about 200 settlers,
and a few miles further—an immense population of
Pra1r1e Dogs — Their city occupies some thousand or more
acres. Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in
the top, from a foot to a foot and a half high, raised by the dirt
excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these
animals can be seen scampering for their houses; arrived there,
they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at
tn^ train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down
they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead.


32 FIRST VIEW OF THE ROCKIES.
It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean
chamber connecting with the next dwelling, and so on through
the settlement; but this is a mistake, as in most cases a few
buckets of water will drown out any one of them. The animal is
of a sandy-brown color, and about the size of a large gray squirrel.
In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and
rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite un-
certain. The prairie dogs live on the grasses and roots and is
generally fat, and by many, especially the Mexicans, considered
good eating, the meat being sweet and tender but rather greasy,
unless thoroughly par-boiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows,
and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town,
where they may by chance pick up an unwary straggler. But the
dogs are not easily caught for some one is always looking out for
danger, and on the first intimation of trouble the alarm is given
and away they all scamper for their holes.
Kimball —[Pop., 500; from Sidney, 47 miles; from Cheyenne, 65 miles:
elevation, 4,697 feet].—This station was formerly called "Antelope."
Its present name is for the present general manager of the road.
Many of the settlers in this vicinity are engaged in agricultural
pursuits and some, it is said, have been successful; but stock-rais-
ing is the chief reliance of the settlers in this section of the coun-
try, as it is admitted to be the best grassed stock range in the
western country.
Connect1ons—Mail hack leaves this station three times a week: north, 15
miles to Lora1n; eight miles to Centrapol1s; six miles to Ashford, and 15
miles to Ger1ng.
Eighteen miles from Kimball and we cross the boundary line
between Nebraska and Wyoming, and turning to the left at P1ne
BLUFFS, 22 miles from Kimball, commence to climb the high table
land leaving the valley of Lodge Pole creek far to the right. The
old California emigrant road crossed the Platte river near Jules-
burg, and followed up Lodge Pole to Cheyenne.
Pass—over the Black Hills of Wyoming 40 miles west, and
came down on to Laramie plains, near Laramie city.
The Rock1es—Passing a number of small stations our train
reaches the table lands or high prairie soon after passing the side-
track station, named Atk1ns, and then, if the day be a fair one,
the traveler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky mountains,
directly ahead. On the right can be seen the Black hills of
Wyoming, stretching their cold dark ruggedness far away to the
right—as far as the eye can reach; but the bold, black line—the
dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape
and reality, but which now seems to bar our way as with a gloomy
impenetrable barrier—is the "Great Rocky Mountain Chain," the
back-bone of the American continent, though bearing different
names in the southern hemisphere. The highest peak which can
be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming
above the general darkness, is Long's peak, one of the highest
peaks of the continent. Away to the left rises Pike's peak, its
towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains which
rank among the loftiest. It is one of Colorado's noted mountains,
and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles
distant.
Why is it dangerous to take a nap when traveling? Because the train runs
over sleepers.


DENVER SHORT LINE. 33
Areher—situated on the high table land, where the cars sel-
dom stop, is eight miles east of Cheyenne, and a little farther on,
the cars pass through the first snow shed on the Union Pacific read,
emerging with Crow creek valley on the left.
After passing through a series of cuts and fills, the track of the
Denver Pacific branch of the Union Pacific can be seen on the
left side, where it passes over the bluffs, to the south. Directly
ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed "Magic City of
the Plains," the capital of Wyoming, but we are not going to say
one word about Cheyenne until we have brought up the left leg of
the Union Pacific from Kansas City—(Continued on page 1/9.)
8®°We now return to Julesburg.
Denver Short Line — Branch, leaves the main line at Jules-
burg, and continues up the South Platte river, to Denver, 197 miles.
The country for the first 50 miles is occupied exclusively by the
stock-raisers, their ranch houses being scattered along the river, on
each side. Some have large tracts of land enclosed for a winter
range, and side tracks for shipping stock; but the greater number
depend entirely on the public range, both winter and summer.
Leaving Julesburg, it is about five miles to the crossing of
Lodge Pole creek, opposite which, on the south side of the Platte
river, is the site of old
Fort Sedgw1ck — It was established May 19, 1864, and aban-
doned in 1868, nothing remaining, not one stone upon another, to
mark the site.
Just here "I could a tale unfold !'' Yes, and we will do it,
too—simply to enable the reader to contrast the times: The
month of December, I860, was a fearfully cold one; the barracks were
built of lumber without plaster on the inside; good summer houses,
but as cold as a barn in the winter; the firewood supply got very
short, when '' proposals '' were advertised for 300 cords of soft wood.
Only one bid was put in, and that was from Mr. John Hughes, of
Denver, who proposed to furnish it for $105 per cord. The con-
tract was awarded to Mr. Hughes, and most of the wood was sent
down from Denver on wagons, 200 miles, at a cost of from $55 to
$65 per cord for freighting. The cost of the wood in Denver was
$20 per cord. Besides this, the contractor was allowed to put in
what hard wood he could get at double the price, or $210 per cord,
which by many was thought to be a "pretty soft snap." The
"hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado,
50 miles south of Denver city, and cost no more for transportation
than did the pine.
Skirting the river, which at certain seasons abounds in ducks
and geese from the mountains to its mouth, the country presents
few objects of interest worthy of note, beside the cattle interests
already referred to in another place.
Sterling — [Pop., 800; from Julesburg, 57 miles; LaSalle, 74 miles; Den-
ver, 120 miles; elevation, 3,920 feet].—It is a regular meal station on the
railroad, the seat of Logan county, Colorado, situated in the
midst of the largest and richest tract of bottom land on the Platte
river, and Denver Short Line. This tract is about five miles wide,
and the portions tributary to Sterling for business are from 15 to 20
3


34 STERLING—FORT MORGAN.
miles in length, on the west side of the river; then, there is a large
tract of valuable agricultural land on the south side; also, heavy
stock interests on both sides of the river.
Much of the lands on the west side of the river, near Sterling,
are under irrigating canals, which have been constructed by the
settlers, who take the water from the Platte, a few miles up the
river. All the irrigated lands produce bountiful crops of grain and
vegetables.
Other tracts are natural meadows, on which a large amount
of hay is raised without irrigation.
Sterling has several good brick business blocks, and stores
and shops of many kinds, also a newspaper. The depot hotel is
the principal one in the town.
The railroad company have machine, round-house and repair-
shops located here.
At Sterling the passenger trains from both the east and west
meet and pass.
Good schools and a number of churches are here, and well
attended; but why need we speak of those? Everybody knows
that in Colorado schools and churches are among the first things
that command the attention of the settler. He may live in a
"dug-out" himself, but he must have a school for his children;
then a church.
In times past it was a common occurrence for a party of emi-
grants to drive out from the Missouri river with teams, select a
tract of land, set their wagon beds on the ground to live in, and
then all "club together," with their teams and haul logs and build
a school house the first thing, when there might not be over a
dozen children among the party. Such people never rust out;
they may be poor, but never thieves. Should they get rich, and
they will, they never patronize the divorce courts.
The road traveled in "ye olden times," by the overland stage,
emigrants and "Pilgrims," is on the south side of the Platte river
from Fort Kearney to Denver. Now the stock-men possess the
country almost exclusively.
Connect1ons by rail are Burlington & Cheyenne railroad.
Leaving Sterling our course is to the southwest for nearly 40
miles, passing several small stations, where the settlers have con-
structed canals and ditches for irrigating purposes; hay—mostly
alfalfa—is the principal crop. Most of the settlers are engaged in
stock-raising, and the crops raised are for their own use—for their
riding animals.
IJCllCl—[From Sterling, 43 miles; Denver, 97 miles; elevation, 4,263 feet].
Named for Mr. Harry Deuel, the jolly old pioneer ticket agent
at Omaha. But why a little station, situated in the sand hills,
should be named for Harry, is past comprehension. It's got more
sand axAgrit than Harry.
Fort Morgan—Now a thrifty little town of 600 population—-
once a government post—is situated on the south side of the river
opposite Deuel, upon the high table land. An irrigating canal
enables the settlers to raise good crops of grain and vegetables in
in the vicinity.
Connected by hack with Deuel.


SHERIDAN POWERLESS—LA SALLE.
35
Sher1dan Powerless—Not "Little Phil," but his brother,
"Mike." It was in the early spring of 1866. An order had been
issued that no less number of persons than 30 should be allowed to
pass a government post on the overland road between the Missouri
river and Utah, and they must be well organized and armed to
resist any Indian attack. At the time named the writer appeared
at the post with a party of 28 men and applied for a pass. Capt.
(now Colonel) "Mike" refused. Three days passed, no recruits
came to our number. Early the following morning, while Capt.
"Mike" was resting the whole cavalry command deserted, taking
their horses and equipments, and there were none left to pursue or
say them nay. Our "outfit" rolled down the Platte river 25 miles
that day, and we have never seen Capt. "Mike" since.
Cut-off—At Fort Morgan the old wagon road going west
forked, one route keeping along the river via Fremont's orchard,
and the other, the Cut-off, turned to the left across the country,
saving in distance about 20 miles and some bad sand hills. But the
water supply was very poor and short. At the time when this
route was laid out—in 1861—and opened for travel, the citizens
celebrated the event with as much enthusiasm as could now be
crowded into a dozen ''Fourth of Julys.''
Leaving Deuel our direction changes to the northwest, rolling
through the sand hills for about ten miles, when we again turn to
the west.
If the sky is clear the first glimpse of the Rocky mountains
can be had, with Long's peak as the central figure.
Rolling along across a broad stretch of bottom land, which pro-
duces a large amount of hay in payment of the labors of a few stock-
raisers who live along the roacT^ we come opposite
Fremont's Orchard—Named for Col. Fremont, the "Path-
finder, '' who visited this region in one of his exploring expeditions.
This "orchard"—before the woodsman's ax played havoc—
consisted of a large grove of Cottonwood trees, on the south side of
the river, back of which are high, sandy bluffs.
From Fort Morgan, the "river road" to Denver kept along the
south bank of the Platte to the "orchard," where it was turned
over the sand hills by the river washing the base of the perpendic-
ular bluffs. Here the emigrant and freighter experienced similar
difficulties, trials and dangers to those at O'Fallon's Bluffs, as the
silent graves of many scattered about the orchard can attest.
Crossing the Platte river 34 miles from Deuel, the town of
Greeley can be discerned 15 miles away, to the north of west, sit-
ting almost obscured in a grove of trees.
Fifteen miles from the river crossing our train stops at
LhSUiIe—[From Denver, 46 miles; Omaha, 526 miles; Greeley, five
miles; Cheyenne, 73 miles; elevation, 4,663 feet],—Is situated at the junc-
tion of the "Short Line" and Denver Pacific branch, which runs
from Denver to Cheyenne. We shall particularly note this line
hereafter, commencing on page 117.
Our train now takes the track of the Denver Pacific branch,
and runs parallel with the mountains, affording magnificent views
all the way to Denver, 46 miles. The country is thickly settled
all along the line. There are several small stations, and much
land under cultivation, mostly in alfalfa hay.


36
BEE-HIVE GEYSER.

BEE-HIVE GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.
Five miles before reaching Denver, we cross Sand creek, and
the track of the Burlington road. Directly opposite, on the west
side of the Platte river, comes down Clear creek from the moun-
tains, at the base of which—see the cloud of smoke?—is Golden,
the "Lowell of Colorado."
Proceeding, the Grant and Holden smelters are close on the
right, while "Argo," the great Boston and Colorado smelter, can
be seen away across the river, on the high land, sending up a cloud
of smoke and fire.
Sampling works, iron foundries, machine works, freight yards,
flour mills, grain elevators, gas works, lumber and stone yards,
etc., etc., are passed in quick succession, when "Denver" is
announced, and we stop at the Union depot.
fiSp-When we bring up that left leg of the Union Pacific from
Kansas City, we will tell you all about Denver, and then take a
run over the state of Colorado, noting many of the marvelous


KANSAS CITY—A BOOMER. 37
KANSAS PACIFIC BRANCH.
Kansas City — [Pop., 132,716; elevation 681 feet]. — Is built on and
around a series of high bluffs and ravines, on the south bank of
the great bend of the Missouri river, just below the mouth of the
"Kaw," or Kansas river, in Jackson county, Missouri, the river
being the boundary line, at this point, between the states of Mis-
souri and Kansas. Prior to 1849, the place was known as "West-
port Landing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City. It
then had a population — mostly traders, hunters and trappers — of
300. Its central location has from the first enabled it to control
a large trade with the country to the west and the southward,
which, since the advent of railroads, has grown to an enormous
business. The Missouri Pacific was thejirsl railroad completed to
Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865,
since which time iq roads have arrived from different direc-
tions, to bid for and share the business which often taxes their
entire combined capacity. As a live stock center—cattle, sheep
and hogs, and for slaughtering, packing or shipping—Kansas City
has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and
pork packing establishments, which are immense, are situated on
the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the
Union depot, and are well worth a visit by the traveler.
Boomer — Kansas City, since 1885, has made a record as a
"booming" city, far ahead of any ever made in this country
where the business and resources were not stimulated by mineral
excitements. In 1885 it claimed a population of about 65,000;
now nearly three times that number. The great number of costly
business blocks, palatial hotels, extensive manufactories, cable car
lines up, over and around the hills, together with thousands of
magnificent private residences, scattered about on the bluffs and in
the secluded nooks, are almost incredible—are marvelous! Where
now stands the largest and finest depot building in the western
country, less than two score years ago stood immense Cottonwood
and sycamore trees, and thickets of underbrush, and pappooses,
and squaws and Indians; it was the Indians' home. He is no
longer here; he has gone! Where stood his "teepes" and "pony
lodges," are now Pullman's palaces on wheels. Where the battle-
axe, arrow and scalping knife once did a murderous duty in the
adjacent county, now runs the plow, the cultivator and reaping
machine. Yes! and the blood-stained soil of even a later date,
now is occupied by a class of the most law abiding and prosperous
people. Where once lurked cunning red savages, and white
ruffianism and murder was rampant, now are schools, and the twin
children of ignorance aud scoundrelism have been forever "wiped
out." God bless the common schools! they are the germs of true
civilization, but their establishment in the west have often been
preceded by the civilizing influences of a vigilance committee.
Kansas City is not lacking in modern improvements—cathedrals,
churches, schools, opera houses, theatres, board of trade, daily
papers, cable and horse railroads, hotels, and electricity in various
forms.


LEAVENWORTH BRANCH.
39
Leaving the Union depot our train soon crosses the Kansas
river and the State L1ne, pass Armstrong at the end of one
mile, where are located the machine and repair shops of the Kan-
sas division, and follow along on the west bank of the river, the
bottoms of which are wide and covered with trees, with here and
there a clearing. The trees consist of red and burr oak, ash,
hickory, hackberry, Cottonwood and sycamore. On the right
the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small
trees. The stations for the first 37 miles are of little importance.
Stranger creek, is crossed near
Linwood—28 miles out, where broad cultivated fields ap-
pear. About five miles further the country fairly "spreads itself"
and we get & first view of the great rolling prairies of Kansas.
LawreilCC Junetion—[From Kansas City, 39 miles; Leavenworth,
32 miles; elevation, 749 feet].—Is a small station where the branch for
Leavenworth connects with the main line. This road runs
through a section of country the greater portion of which is under
a high state of cultivation. There are a number of small stations
on the branch—Fa1rmont being the largest, which has a popula-
tion of 1,600.
Leavenworth—[Pop.,ao,ooo].—Is situated on the west bank of
the Missouri river; settled in 1854, and is surrounded by a section
of country of unsurpassed fertility. Leavenworth has all the met-
ropolitan features of a big city—horse railroads, water works, elec-
tricity, a big bridge over the Missouri, six railroads, large Catho-
lic cathedral, and a goodly supply of churches, schools, banks,
newspapers, hotels, and small manufactories.
Fort Leavenworth—Is two miles north of the city—estab-
lished in 1827—and is now the headquarters of the Department of
the Missouri.
Ra1l Connect1ons—Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Kan-
sas City, Wyandotte & Northwestern; Leavenworth, Topeka & Southwestern,
and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe.
Narrow Gauge—Here we find another branch of the Union
Pacific—a narrow gauge track—which extends westward 166 miles
through a very rich agricultural country, well settled and well
tilled.
The principal stations on this line, with their populations and
distances between are: VALLEY FALLS—[36 miles from Leavenworth,
pop. 50]. HOLTON—[19 miles; pop., 3,000]. CLAY CENTRE—[92 miles; pop.,
5,000]. MlLTONVALE—[Nine miles;pop., 1,000]. Length of road, 166
miles.
From Lawrence Junction it is one mije to B1smark Grove—
fair and pic-nic grounds—and another mile to
Lawrenee—[Pop., 10,000; from Kansas City, 39 miles; Leavenworth,
34 miles; Topeka, 28 miles; elevation, 763 feet].—The seat of Douglass
county; named for the millionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass.
The city proper is opposite the depot on the south side of the
Kansas river, about one mile distant, reached by several fine
bridges. It is situated in the midst of the richest and most fertile
portion of Kansas, as well as being the most beautiful city in the
state. The city has horse railroads and all the modern improve-
ments. Settled in 1854. Raided by Quantrell's band August 21st,
1863, who burned the town, and murdered upwards of 100 unarmed
citizens.


40 TOPEKA—KANSAS.
In the southern part of the city is located the State University,
on the summit of Mt. Oread, from which point you look upon a
very beautiful landscape, dotted in all directions with hundreds
of farm houses.
Connect1ons by rail are: Southern Kansas and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe.
Passing a number of small stations, all surrounded by thrifty
settlers, 13 miles from Lawrence, we cross the Grasshopper river,
upon which are located a number of flouring mills and small man-
ufactories. The bottoms along the river are well timbered—oak,
hickory, elm, ash, soft maple and cottonwood principally. The
river unites with the Kansas opposite the old town of Lecompton,
of " Lecompton Constitution " notoriety.
Topeka—[Pop., 31,000 from Lawrence, 28 miles; Kansas City, 67 miles;
elevation, 821 feet].—The capital of the state of Kansas, and the seat
of Shawnee county. Here passenger trains stop 20 minutes for
meals. The city is situated on the south side of the Kansas river,
opposite the station, one mile distant, and is reached by a substan-
tial bridge, traversed by street cars, as well as a "bus " line and
teams. The county is the richest and the lands the most fertile in
the state.
The Cap1tal—Is a fine building, built of what is called in this
country "Junction City marble," a white magnesian limestone
found in many places in the state. It can be quarried in blocks from
ten to 12 tons in weight, and when fresh from the quarry is very
easy to saw. The capital cost |400,000.
Connect1ons by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Missouri Pacific
and Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska railroads.
Kansas has an area of 52,053,520 acres, of which 18,000,000 are
unimproved, awaiting settlers. Price of land from $1.25 for wild,
to $50 per acre for improved. It has a school fund of over
$2,000,000, and increasing. Two normal schools for educating
teachers, the University at Lawrence and the Agricultural College
at Manhattan.
On the lines of the Kansas division of the Union Pacific there
are 112 grain elevators with a storage capacity of 3,853,696 bushels,
and 68 flouring mills with 234 run of stone; capacity, 5,780 barrels
per day. Kansas is a prohibition state, and its people are noted
for their enterprise and public spirit.
St. Mary's—[Pop., 2,800; from Topeka, 15 miles].—Is an important
place in some respects. The Jesuit Fathers visited this place nearly
50 years ago and established mission schools among the Indians.
More recently they erected here large educational institutions.
One for females is known as "The Seminary of the Sacred Heart."
The building is to the north of the railroad, is of brick with stone
trimmings, 100 feet front and four stories in height, completed in
1871. The college for males is adjoining, and can accommodate
1,300 students.
The country is thickly settled around about. Corn is the prin-
cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised.
WamegO—[Pop., 1,850; from St. Mary's, 13 miles].—Is the next
place of any importance. It is a thrifty town, situated in the
midst of a section of country well watered by small streams, very
fertile and thickly settled.


MANHATTAN—JUNCTION CITY. 41
Passing St. George, another growing town of about 700
settlers, we cross the Blue river, and stop at
Millllliltlilll—[Pop., 3,100; from Wamego, 15 miles; elevation 957 feet].
Is the seat of Riley county. Settled in 1854 by a colony of
Ohio "pilgrims," who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati,
steamed down the Ohio river, and up the Mississippi, Missouri and
Kansas rivers to this place, where they settled in what was then a
wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be
erected. The evidences of their enterprise and thrift can be seen
on all sides.
The Agr1cultural College of the state of Kansas, and a
kind of experimental farm, is located at Manhattan. Congress, in
its benevolent wisdom, endowed this college with a land grant of
81,000 acres, most of which has been sold, realizing nearly half a
million of dollars. The institution has 400 acres fenced and culti-
vated; the greater portion is in vines and orchards of fruit of dif-
ferent varieties.
Connect1ons—As noted heretofore under "Valley," the Union Pacific
branch reaches Manhattan, from Valley station, on the main line in Nebraska,
passing through Valparaiso, Lincoln, Beatrice and Marysville; distance, 190
miles.
Other roads are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, and Chicago, Kansas Neb-
raska railroads
The little town of Ogdensburg is reached in 11 miles, and one
of some historic interest in the annals of the state, as being the
place where the first territorial legislature, convened by Gov.
Reeder, met to "save the country."
The place was settled in 1856.
Fort R1ley—Is both a railroad station and a government post,
five miles beyond Ogdensburg. The station is for the fort, which
is situated to the righl, upon a high plateau; established in 1852,
in latitude 39° north, 960 30' west. The post was first known as
"Camp Center," being situated in the geographical center of the
United States. The post is the headquarters of the Seventh cav-
alry, Col. J. W. Foresyth, commanding, and is garrisoned by
troops A, B, C, D, G, I, L, and M.
Junetion City—[Pop., 5,000; from Fort Riley, four miles; Kansas city,
139 miles; elevation, 1,021 feet.]—Is the seat of Davis county, situated
at the junction of the Smoky and Republican rivers, which form
the Kansas; it is surrounded by lands of great fertility, are thickly
settled and highly cultivated. The city has the usual number of
stores, shops, hotels, etc., found in a place of its size, and is grad-
ually accumulating wealth. The Junction City marble quarries,
heretofore referred to, are located just to the north, under the
bluffs.
The Smoky Hill river comes in from the southward, and will
be on our left for the next 47 miles—to Salina.
The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most
productive in the state of Kansas. History runneth not back to
the date of its first settlement by the Indians, but it does to the
time when they numbered many thousands. It was their home-
stead, his last rendezvous in the state, to retain which he fought
the white man long and bitterly, but with the usual result; the
Indian had to go. He went! Where once roamed his "pony
herd" in thousands, now can be counted the dwellings of his suc-
cessors in equal numbers; where once the Indian's beef (buffalo)


42
VIEW IN DENVER, COI„

ranged in untold millions, now range the white man's beef, cattle
and sheep. The buffalo has gone! went with the Indians. Will
the time ever come when the ''successors" will be succeeded by a
stronger and more enlightened race? Will they, in turn, ever be
driven out and exterminated?


ABILENE—S0I.0MON, KANSAS. 43
Connect1ons—The Junction City & Fort Kearney branch of the Union Pa-
cific turns to the northwest from Junction City, and runs up the Republican
valley. The principal towns on the line, distances apart, and populations, are:
From Junction City to Clyde, 56 miles; pop., 2,150; Concord1a, from Clyde, 15
miles; pop., 4.000; Bellev1lle, from Lawreuceburg, the junction station, eight
miles; pop., 4,300. Besides the above, there are ten stations, many of wh1ch
have populations of from 200 to 400.
Also connects with the Missouri Pacific railway.
After leaving Junction City for the west, a peculiar rock form-
ation is noticeable on the right, along the summit of the bluffs,
resembling a long line of fortifications.
Another item we record for the benefit of the sportsman:
Feathered game in great abundance is found on the prairies and
along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, such as prairie
chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican,
and many other varieties.
AbllCllC—[Pop.,4,300; from Junction City, 24 miles; from Kansas City,
163 miles; elevation, 1,093 feet].—Is the seat of Dickinson county, a
regular meal station for some trains, and one of the best on the
line.
Wheat and corn are the principal staples in this vicinity, yet
all kinds of small grain and vegetables are raised and yield
bounteously.
This station was the first cattle shipping point on the Kansas
Pacific railway, it being the most convenient station to reach by
stockmen driving over the "Texas trail" from the south where
most of the cattle, received at Kansas City and other northern
markets, were raised.
From 1867 to 1870 the number of cattle loaded on the cars, at
this station each year, was from 75,000 to 150,000 head; but as the
agriculturists crowded in, the cattle were crowded out, and we will
find the stock range now far to the westward.
We are now in what is called the "golden belt," so named for
the wonderful adaptability of the soil for raising wheat and other
small grains. These "belt " lands, it is claimed, commence near
Junction City, and extend beyond Ellis—about 200 miles in length.
Wheat is the principal crop, and comprises about one-half of all
the productions.
Several years ago we noted a number of fields of wheat, near
Abilene, of 1,000 acres each, one of 3,000, and one of 3,500.
Some years ago the settlers commenced planting trees and
there are now to be seen many fine orchards of fruit in the vicinity.
Connect1ons by rail are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe and Chicago,
Kansas & Nebraska railroads.
Solomon—[poP, 2,100; from Abilene, nine miles; elevation, 1,111 feet].
Is situated near the junction of Solomon and Smoky Hill rivers, in
the midst of a fine agricultural section of country. Corn and wheat
are the principal staples.
Connect1ons by rail are: Solomon branch of Union Pacific runs up the
valley of the Solomon river, to the north-west, 57 miles to Belo1t, an agricultural
town of about 2,000 population. M1nneapol1s, the largest place on the branch,
is 23 miles from Solomon, and contains a population of 2,300—agriculturists.
Also connect with Atchison, Topeka & Sante Fe and Chicago Kansas -&
Nebraska railroads.
Leaving Solomon and crossing the river of the same name, we
soon reach an elevated plain, dotted in all directions with the neat
little cottage homes of the settlers who are principally engaged in
raising wheat and corn. New Cambr1a is a thirty little town of
250 citizens, eight miles west.


44 LINCOLN BRANCH.
Ssllillil—[Pop.,6,500; from Kansas City, 186 miles; elevation, 1,163 feet].
Is the seat of Salina county; settled in 1858. The surroundings are
principally agricultural—wheat, corn, hay and general farm pro-
ducts. There are a few small herds of cattle and sheep in the
county, and some extensive quarries of gypsum and fire and pot-
ters' clay; also several salt springs that are being volatilized for the
production of salt; Cottonwood, oak, ash, elm and box-elder, skirt
all the streams. Farmers are planting black walnuts in large
quantities. The town contains several large grain elevators, large
business blocks, hotels, newspapers and stores and shops of all
kinds. The Salina river is crossed just before reaching Salina.
Connect1ons by rail are: Salina branch of the Union Pacific runs
south, 36 miles to McPherson, a thrifty town of about 2,500 population. It is
situated on the line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe; Chicago, Kansas &
Nebraska, and the Missouri Pacific railways. The next largest town on the
line is L1ndsborg; it is situated on the Smoky Hill river, and the Missouri
Pacific railway, 21 miles south from Salina and contains a population of about
1,000, mostly agriculturists.
L1ncoln branch of the Union Pacific was completed about the
first of December, 1888. It follows up the Salina valley, northwest,
to Waldo, 72 miles, thence westward to Pla1nv1lle. Zur1ch,
M1LLBROOK, Hox1e to Colby, 205 miles. At Colby, a branch runs
southeast, connecting at Oakley, 22 miles, with the main line.
The Lincoln branch parallels the main line for the whole distance
from 20 to 35 miles distant, running through the counties of
Salina, Lincoln, Russell, Rooks, Graham, Sheridan and Thomas;
the productions are principally wheat and corn.
Also connect at Salina with Missouri Pacific; Chicago, Kansas & Nebraska,
and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads.
All along the rivers and streams in their region are belts of
timber, consisting of oak, hackberry,elm, mulberry and cottonwood.
BrooKvill©—[Pop., 900; from Salina, 15 miles; elevation, 1,286 feet].
Here are located the usual railroad repair shops of a division.
The town is situated on the high rolling prairie, surrounded by
settlers, mostly engaged in raising wheat and corn.
Passing a number of small stations including Fort Harker,
where a government post was located in 1867—now abandoned—we
reach.
Ellsworth—[Pop., 2,000; from Brookvllle, 22 miles; elevation, 1,471 feet].
It is the seat of Ellsworth county, situated on the north bend of
the Smoky Hill river; settled in 1867. This was for many years
a great shipping point for cattle, but the advent of the farmers
has crowded the catt-men—further west. The town has some
large stone business blocks, a good hotel, and many fine buildings.
The large grain elevator is an evidence that wheat has taken the
place of cattle.
Passing a number of small stations, chief of which is W1l-
son's—[Pop., 1,000], situated on the high rolling prairie surrounded
with wheat growers, who do not grumble at their yield of grain
per acre. Some claim 50 bushels. Near Bunker Hill, a place set-
tled in 1871, by a colony from Ohio, are salt springs, lime quar-
ries, coal, mineral paint and pottery clay.
RllSSCll—[Pop., 1,800; from Ellsworth, 40 miles; elevation 1,765 feet.]—Is
the seat of Russell county, settled in 1871, by a colony from
Ripon, Wisconsin. It is situated about four miles south of the
south bend of Salina river surrounded by rich lands, well settled
and cultivated.


HAYS—EMJS—KANSAS. 45
Connect1ons—Mail hack three times a week to" the northwest, Fay, 12 miles;
Fa1rport, five miles further. Also to the northeast, Woodv1lle five miles;
thence northwest, 16 miles, to Parad1se, and nine miles to Tapley.
The Victoria colony is located 16 miles west of Russell. Es-
tablished by the late Mr. George Grant, a wealthy Scotchman,
who bought 30,000 acres of the railroad lands, sold a portion to
the colony settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The
lands have a rich soil, are easy to cultivate, and produce an
abundant harvest.
The town and vicinity contains a population of about 1,200, the
comfortable homes dotting the landscape in every direction, sur-
rounded by well-tilled fields, horses, cattle and sheep.
HayS—[Pop, 1,350; from Russell 26 miles; elevation, 1,936 feet].—Is the
seat of Ellis county, named for the government post established
here in 1867, situated about half a mile south, on a high plateau.
The citizens and settlers in the vicinity of Hays are mostly
farmers. The county is well watered by the Smoky, Big Creek
and the Salina; the land is rolling, of a dark rich loam, and is
said to be perfection for farming purposes. Good building stone
is abundant, and belts of timber line all along the rivers and
small streams.
Fort Hays—Is the headquarters of the 18th Infantry. Col.
J. E. Yard, commanding, and garrisoned by B, D, and H com-
panies.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North six times a week, to Mart1n, 16 miles;
Pa1nsv1lle, 10 miles, and Stockton, 15 miles. Also, northeast to Cather1ne,
nine miles, twice a week. To the southeast six miles to Munjor, and 14
miles to Phe1fer, 14 miles, three times a week. Southwest 12 miles to PALa-
t1ne, thence west 12 miles to Stockbr1dge.
ElIlS—[Pop., 1,150; from Hays, 14 miles; from Kansas City, 303 miles;
elevation, 2,056 feet].—Is a regular meal station for all passenger
trains, and the meals are above the average. Here the railroad
company have the usual shops of a division—machine and repair
shops. Next, after Abilene was abandoned as a cattle shipping
point, came Ellis, and the agriculturists also came, have settled,
have been successful, and the cattle-men have about all taken
Philosopher Greeley's advice—gone west.
Connect1ons — Mail hack for the north, to Mendota, 13 miles; Amboy,
seven miles; Cresson, three and a half miles; thence northwest to Heber,
eight miles; thence northeast to N1codemus, eight miles, and west from Cres-
son to Fargo, ten miles, three times a week.
Wa-Keeney—[Pop.,550; from Ellis, 1S miles; elevation, 2,391 feet]
Is another agricultural town, wheat being the principal crop.
•The railroad company have a very large depot building here;
it is 100 x 30 feet, 32 feet high, surmounted by a tower 50 feet in
height
.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North to Happy, 12 miles, and M1llbrook, 11
miles, six times a week. South to W1lcox, 16 miles; Cyrus, seven miles, and
Southwest, six miles, three times a week.
Leaving Wa-Keeney, there is little to note; emigrants are
coming into the country, securing farms, building homes and rais-
ing wheat, vegetables, etc. Some are making a success of broom-
corn, but all are crowding the cattle-men, but we will find them
yet
.


46 WALLACE—STOCK-RAISING.
Connect1ons—At Buffalo Park, 29 miles, a mail hack runs south 1s%
miles to Sloye, three times a week.
At Gra1nf1eld, six miles, a mail hack runs north to Hox1e six times a
week; also south to Goodwater, nine miles; Jerome, six miles; Farnsworth,
seven miles, and D1ghton, 16 miles, six times a week.
At Oakley, 21 miles, the Oakley & Colby branch of the Union Pacific
turns to the northwest, and reaches Colby in 22 miles, where connections are
made with the Lincoln branch from Salina.
At Oakley, a mail leaves for the south, to Cabbell, 13 miles, and Elkader,
11 miles, once a week.
At W1nona, 21 miles, a mail leaves to the northwest, for Kuka, 15 miles,
twice a week.
At W1nona a mail hack leaves to the southeast for Russell Spr1ngs, 13
miles, six times a week.
WhIIhCG—[Pop., 300; from Wa-Keeney, 99 miles; Denver, 219 miles; ele-
vation, 3,286 feet]-—Is the seat of Wallace county, situated on the
Smoky Hill river, and a rolling prairie, two miles northwest of
Fort Wallace, which was established here in 1866.
For some trains Wallace is a regular meal station; is the end
of a division, where the railroad company have machine and
repair shops, and the usual buildings for officers.
JjfayTime changes at this place from "central " to "western."
If your watch is central, or Chicago time, it will be one hour too
fast here.
Wallace is well provided with stores, hotels, banks, schools,
churches and a newspaper. It has many latent resources, one of
which is its stone quarries. With as good stone as Colorado, and
over 200 miles shorter rail haul, why should train-loads of stone
pass through Wallace for the east?
Stock-ra1s1ng—We have seen the stock-men at Abilene, then
crowded along out to Ellis, and finally to Wallace, and even here,
the demon of the plow and scythe pursues them. There are a few
farmers scattered over the lands in this vicinity, but we are about
at the western limit of their present operations.
For some distance we have been on the border of the public
cattle range, as evidenced in places of immense yards, chutes and
side-tracks for the accommodation of the '' cattle kings.''
The gradual march of the agriculturists on the trail of the
stock-raisers in this country, argues a success for the invaders.
The crowding process so peacefully followed will continue, and
the time is not far distant when the common range east of the
Rocky mountains will be a thing of the past.
The stock-raisers of the future in these United States will need
to own their own ranges, fence them, provide winter feed and
keep less stock. The "round ups" and professional "cow
punchers," will only appear in history and "yellow covers."
The day when a few men can range from 20,000 to 150,000 head
of cattle each over millions of acres of the public domain, is
past. We fail to see why the farmer, lumberman and miner
should be required to pay the government for lands, and then be
taxed upon them, when the stock-raisers can monopolize the whole
grazing country and pay never a cent.
Connect1ons—Mail hack leaves to the southeast for Cocavne, 18 miles;
thence east to W1lk1nson, five miles, six times a week.
From Wallace it is nine miles to the new station of Sharon
Spr1ngs, named for a famous spring in the vicinity; eight miles
to Monotony, very appropriately named, and 15 miles to Arapa-
hoe, where we leave Kansas and enter the state of Colorado.


FIRST VIEW—MIRAGB.
47
Cheyenne Wells — ten miles west of Arapahoe, is in the
cattle range, but is not a very populous station. For some trains
it is a regular meal station.
Connect1ons—A mail hack connects for Burl1ngton, 35 miles north, six
times a week. A second line parallels the first, but a few miles further west,
for Belo1t, 26 miles; Oranola, 11 miles; Tuttle, 15 miles; Fr1end, 17 miles,
six times a week.
First View—[From Cheyenne Wells, 11 miles; Kansas City, 473 miles;
Denver, 166 miles; elevation, 4,561 feet].—Here, if the sky be clear, pas-
sengers from the east obtain their first view of the Rocky moun-
tains, 184 miles distant from their base, and those from the west
their last view. Pike's peak, the highest peak in view, is directly
west.
Hit CarSOn—[From First View, 14 miles; elevation, 4,273 feet].—
Named for the famous trapper and guide of that name, and some-
what noted as being the place where the Grand Duke Alexis of
Russia tarried to hunt buffalo, in January, 1872. It was a big
hunt, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals.
And, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the
last 250 miles, but for the last 12 years none have been seen—they
left with the Indians.
Kit Carson is situated on the Big Sandy river near the junction
of Horse creek.
From this station, southeast 27 miles, is Chivington, named for
Col. Chivington, who, in 1864, had a "little unpleasantness" with
the Indians, resulting in over 400 of them departing this life for
the "sweet-by-and-by."
ITIirage—Is reached, after passing several other small stations,
39 miles from Kit Carson. It is named from that curious phenom-
enon the mirage, (mirazh), which has often been witnessed in
this vicinity.
In 1860-8, the toil-worn immigrant, when urging his weary
team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened
by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad,
green meadows, which appeared to be but a little distance away.
Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course
and followed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he has
followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp.
What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we
never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the appearance
of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy
trees and the running waters; we have seen them all near by, as
bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they
appeared, too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them
vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers
have followed these visions until, overcome with thirst and heat,
they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling
shade of the trees they might never reach; far from the music of
running waters, which they might hear no more.
Now, as onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the
elegant palace car, (20, 30, 40 miles an hour, rolling over the once
trackless prairie) we scarcely give a thought to those who in early
days traversed this country parallel with our road, only 20 or 30
miles to the northward, and suffered so fearfully while crossing it,
and perchance their bones were left to bleach and whiten on the
scorching sands. How changed!



THE CAPITOL OF COLORADO, DENVER."
Hll^O—[From Mirage, nine miles; Denver, 104 miles; elevation, 5,027
feet].—Named for Mr. Hugo Richards, a Colorado pioneer. Until
recently this was a regular meal station, but the eating house
has been removed elsewhere. It will long be remembered by
the old-timers.
CatTXK Range—As we are now in the center of the great cattle
range of the west it may be well to crack what to some may be
an old chestnut—to the many, news.
At this point we are in the midst of the finest grazing lands in
the western country, or the world. They are about 200 miles in
width from east to west, and 400 miles in length, watered by nu-
merous rivers, small streams and springs. On this mammoth pas-
ture ground range at will millions of cattle, sheep and horses the
year round, without being fed with hay or grain, and receive only
such care as will prevent them from straying beyond reach.
The gramma, or "bunch" grass, is the most nutritious grass
grown, and seems peculiar to this western country, being wholly
unknown in the eastern states or the old world. It grows from
five to 12 inches high, and is always green at the roots, winter and
summer. During the fall the dry atmosphere cures the standing
grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for hay. Its nu-
tritive qualities remain uninjured, and the stock thrive equally
well on the dry feed.
In the winter, what snow falls is very dry, unlike that which
falls in more humid climates. It may cover the ground to the
depth of a few inches, but the stock readily remove it, reaching
the grass without trouble. Then again, the snow does not stick to
the sides of the cattle and horses, and melt there, chilling them
through, but its dryness causes it to roll off, leaving their hair
dry.


BRANDS—ROUND-UPS.
40
In some portions of this great stock range a kind of white sage
and grease-wood grows luxuriantly, on which cattle and sheep
thrive in connection with the grasses.
No drouths which have been experienced on this range have
ever seriously affected the pasturage, owing to the peculiar qualities
of the grasses indigenous to the country. So with storms; it has
seldom happened that any are experienced that cause loss, and
none ever do when the stock is properly cared for.
On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to
range together, and a system of brands has been adopted by the
association of stock-raisers and recorded with the county clerk in
the section of country where the herds belong. The recording of
the brand is a protection against theft and loss by straying, as each
stock-man knows the brands in use on his range, and each endeav-
ors to protect the others' interest.

Dubb1n, Orb & Co.—Cattle branded Mi; also, somo of them
\B, and horses the same. Post office, Cheyenne, W. T. Range,
Bear Creek.
"Round Up "—One of the most important and interesting feat-
ures of the stock-raising business is the "round up." In the
"free and easy" manner of raising cattle on the broad western
plains, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six
months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless cattle
scatter almost from "Dan to Beersheba," and that extra effort is
necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring
"roundup." Companies of herders are organized to "ride the
range," to scour certain sections of the country, and bring every
animal to a grand focal point, no matter to whom that animal may
belong, or what its condition may be. The old-fashioned "husk-
ing bee," "'possum hunt," or "training day," is vastly outdone
by this grand revelry of the herders.
Mounted on their fleetest '' cow ponies, "the cowboys scatter
out in all directions, gather in "everything that wears horns,"
and at night may have the property of a score of owners in one
immense excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the
animals together, representatives of the different "brands" ride
into the herd, single out the animals, one by one, and drive
them off to be branded or marketed. Moving along, day after day
the scene is repeated, until the whole pasture country has been
visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an
inventory of his stock. Of course the "boys" camp out, wagons
follow the herd with provisions and blankets; the "round up"
season, from beginning to end, being one of mirth and frolic, as
well as of work.
Paddy's description of a fiddle can't be beat: "It was the shape of a turkey
and the size of a.goose; I turned it over on it's back, and rubbed it's belly with
a crooked stick, and oh! Saint Patrick, how it squealed."
• 4


50 DENVER—OF OI.D.
Cedar Point—Eight miles from Hugo, is the highest point
on the line of road, being 5,695 feet above the level of the sea.
We have now all down grade, with only a few feet exceptions,
all the way to the city of Denver—104 miles. In this distance a
number of small stations is passed, and many small streams, with
cattle on more than a thousand hills.
The mountain views while approaching Denver are very grand.
If the day be clear Pike's peak can be seen 75 miles to the left;
Dong's peak, 70 miles to the right, and Gray's peak, directly in
front, all set like jewels in the crest of the great "snowy range"
of the Rocky mountains.
Again our train rattles along the Platte river, the hum of busy
life is on all sides, and in front, the
Un1on Depot—Denver. This depot is a spacious stone struc-
ture, 503 feet in length by 65 feet in width, two stories, with a
tower 165 feet high, built of lava stone from Castle Rock, with
trimmings from the quarries at Morrison and Manitou.
The first floor is devoted to waiting-rooms for ladies and gentle-
men, ticket, telegraph, telephone, express and baggage rooms,
news, baggage check and lunch stands, barber shop, and '' sample ''
room, besides a large dining-room where excellent meals are served
at all reasonable hours at 50 cents.
The second floor is used at present for railroad offices; but we
understand it is soon to be changed and fitted for hotel purposes.
The entire building is thoroughly ventilated, heated by steam,
lighted by electricity and gas, and has a thorough police system of
its own. The entire management of the depot and grounds is
under the vigilant care of Col. Trufant.
''Where to Go ?" —is usually the first question to be decided by
a traveler on arriving for the first time and desiring to stop over at
any point.
The hotels in Denver number three score and ten; boarding-
houses and "rooms to rent,'' much more numerous.
The principal hotels (rated by charges) are the Albany, Wind-
sor, American, Metripole and St. James—charges, from $3 to $5
per day. The Markham, Victor, Brunswick, Inter-Ocean, and
many others from $1.50 to $2.50 per day. Boarding-house charges
from $5 to $15 per week. Furnished rooms from $8 to $35 per
month. Of restaurants, there are scores, from five cent lunch
counter stools to—palaces.
How to Go.—Street cars leave from the southern entrance of
the depot for all parts of the city, passing all the principal hotels.
By inquiring of the street car dispatcher he will put you on the
proper car to reach any point desired. Public carriages can always
be hired near the same entrance, also the Transfer Co.'s "busses"
and wagons. —
Denver—of Old—Has a "phenomenal" history, and as
romantic as real:
The first settlement was made November 1, 1858. West Denver
was laid out three days later, and on the 6th, less than 200 citizens
held a meeting and elected a delegate to Congress, and on the
8th mounted him on the back of a broncho, and started him for
the "states "—Washington—to get the "Pike's peak gold mines"


DENVER—OF TO-DAY.
«r)l
set apart from Kansas as a separate territory. The struggle for
existence commenced in 1861. The mines were reported " played
out;" the war divided the people; the grasshoppers hopped onto
and devoured everything green; fire laid waste half the city, to be
followed by a great flood sweeping out much that remained; then
came the Indian war of 1864, cutting off supplies from the east,
and all mail communications; murdered emigrants, burned ranches
and smouldering ruins covered the route for 600 miles between
Denver and the Missouri river. Every citizen was under arms,
and block-houses for defense were hurriedly erected in all the
exposed parts of the city. As if not enough to crush out the last
spark of vitality in the citizens, came the announcement: "The
Union Pacific railroad is building up Pole creek." This was leav-
ing Denver over 100 miles south of the trans-continental line, and
as Mr. Durant said, "It's too dead to bury." This was a crushing
blow, and many abandoned the town, leaving their all, and joined
the army of railroad camp followers or contractors. (The writer
was one of the last named, having " swapped" 160 acres of land,
of what is now an addition to the city of Denver, for two yoke of
oxen, and the Indians stole the oxen.) But that '' crushing blow''
did not crush; in fact it was the life of Denver. Those who could
not get away, having large investments, and finding the trans-con-
tinental railroad would not come to them, resolved to go to it.
The citizens immediately went to work and raised $400,000 by sub-
scription, then voted county bonds for $500,000 more. Soon "dirt
began to fly "on the railroad graded to Cheyenne. The turning
point was reached and passed, and we have now to glance at the
I>enver of To-day — Is the capital of the state of Colorado,
the commercial center. [Pop.,107,000.] From a beggar on a
broncho in 1858, it can now send its senators and representatives
to Washington by six different palace car lines via the Missouri
river, and one via Fort Worth and the Gulf of Mexico. It has
smelting works and manufactories of all kinds. It has public
buildings, cathedrals, churches and schools, unsurpassed in any
eastern city of double its age. It has the finest opera house and
well-appointed hotels. Its street car system is complete. Its
artesian water supply has no equal in the world, being taken from
God's reservoir by over 300 wells, from 380 to 1,160 feet beneath
the city, and is as pure as crystal.
Denver is the seat of Arapahoe county, 14 miles east in a direct
line, from the base of the Rocky mountains, at the junction of
the South Platte river and Cherry creek; elevation 5,224feet above
sea level. It is a city of brick and stone, almost exclusively. In
many of the large business blocks (several eight stories in height)
iron is used, and the buildings are very costly and substantial, and
provided with all the modern improvements. The streets are
broad, the sidewalks are paved with large flagstones and bordered
with shade trees, sustained and nourished by streams of pure
mountain water, which is distributed through ditches and gutters,
running parallel with the sidewalks.
The Chamber of Commerce and Board of Trade building 13
situated on the corner of Lawrence and Fourteenth streets. The
association was organized in 1884, built their building, and have
since been very active workers for the advancement of the best
interests of Denver, and have succeeded in a remarkable degree.
Dar's many a lie on a tombstone.


52
DENVER—COW)RADO.
In secret orders, lodges, clans, associations and societies, Den-
ver is fully represented.
Denver is a port-of-entry, where the greater portion of foreign
goods that are sold in Colorado by the jobbing merchants of the
state arrive direct in bond.
The marvelous growth of this city, the preponderence of fine
residences, and the great number of people one meets, who are
apparently are people of leisure, often leads to the query: "How
do all these people live?" To some extent we have answered this
question before. The great majority live on their money in bank.
There are thousands of families of independent means living in
Denver, of which some member first came here for health, was
relieved and returned home to be again prostrated. They again
returned, were again relieved, and their faith in the health-giving
climate of Colorado fully established. This state of facts resulted
in the packing up and gathering together of their household goods
and gods, and the establishment of permanent homes in Colorado.
There are hundreds of fine private residences in and around Den-
ver that have been built within the last ten years by men of wealth
as homes, that cost from $15,000 to $50,000, and furnished with all
the luxuries that money can buy. Great numbers of these resi-
dences are owned by those who have made their fortunes in the
mines, and after leading nomadic lives of want and exposure
for years have settled down to enjoy life.
The Alpine view from Denver, of the great Rocky mountain
chain, extending north and south for 200 miles with Long's peak
to the north, Pike's peak to the south, and the "dome of the
continent," Gray's peak, in the center is most exquisite! Supple-
ment the picture with the beautiful buttes, foot-hills and the roll-
ing prairies, 600 miles wide to the eastward, and the magnificent
landscape is complete. Should we include the substantials, the
refined society, beautiful drives, abundance of the necessities of
life, economy of living, and above all, the delightful health-giving
climate of Colorado to the list of attractions, they would answer
the query, often propounded, "What has built up—what sustains
Denver?"
The advantages above enumerated are only a few that could be
named. As a distributing point, its central location must ever
command the trade and traffic of the numerous mining and agri-
cultural towns, both in the mountains and valleys. Its wonderful,
almost unlimited railroad advantages, is another marvel. Denver,
to-day, is the terminus of more railroads, with but two exceptions,
than any city, town or village in the world. Sixteen is the number
now, to which can be added within the next 18 mouths, two more.
The-se 16 railroads are all separate and distinct organizations, run-
ning regular trains.
The newspapers and miscellaneous publications number 33.
The News, Republican, Times and the Sun, appear daily. The
Graphic, Farmer, Journal, Herald, Celt, Enquirer and Republican
are weekly papers. The Field and Farm is also a weekly, and one
of the best, if not the best, publication of the kind in the west
.
The "Great Divide" is a monthly publication—an enterprise
recently inaugurated at Denver with great success. It is devoted to
literature of a distinctively western character, and already holds
a high position among the monthly magazines of the country.
Denver may confidently be looked forward to as the literary cen-
ter of the Rocky Mountain region as well as its metropolis.


COLORADO—ITS CHARACTERISTICS.
53
Colorado—its General Features.—It is not our purpose
to enter into a very minute description of this remarkable state;
although one of the youngest in the American Union, it possesses
nearly all the natural advantages of her older sisters, while in
many respects she stands forth pre-eminently superior to any
of them, and to the world at large.
What 1s cla1med—
The most healthful climate.
The grandest parks and mountain scenery.
The grandest and deepest canon in the world.
The largest coal vein and coal deposits in the known world.
The greatest number of developed ore-producing mines.
The greatest number of mine locations.
The greatest number of medicinal and mineral springs.
The largest substantial city of its age in the world.
The most abundant water power; mill-sites and dam-sites are
numberless.
The highest mountain ranges, peaks and parks in the Union,
and the source of the greatest number of large rivers.
The largest, most abundant, and greatest variety of game,
feathered and haired, as well as the most numerous streams stocked
with the finest trout.
Finally—The most accessible Alpine country for tourists and
health seekers from the most populous states of America, and the
cheapest.
Colorado was admitted as a state July 4, 1876, just 100
years after the Declaration of Independence, from which fact it is
known as the "Centennial" state. It is situated between the
37th and 41st degrees of north latitude and the 25th and 32d meri-
dians of longitude west from Washington, containing 103,012
square miles, about one-third of which is prairie lands, lying east
of the base of the Rocky mountains; the other two-thirds are moun-
tainous, with parks and small valleys sandwiched in between the
mountain ranges.
Cl1mate and Health—The climate is dry and very healthy;
diseases common in the older states are unknown here. Pulmon-
ary complaints—if not too deep seated—are either eradicated from
the system of invalids who resort to this country, or the disease
becomes so modified that the sufferer enjoys a marked improve-
ment in health. Within the last few years numerous hot springs
have been discovered in various parts of the state which are
claimed to possess great medicinal qualities, particularly for the
cure of rheumatism and kindred diseases.
Irr1gat1on—Is very generally resorted to throughout the state
for agricultural purposes. There are a great number of canals that
take the water from the streams near the mountains, and conduct
it to points from 25 to 100 miles away, from which great numbers
of laterals or small ditches conduct the water over the fields of the
farmers, thus insuring good crops, as irrigation is necessary on
nearly all tillable land in the state.
Farm Products—Wheat yields from 30 to 40 bushels to the
acre. Oats, rye, barley and small grain generally, yield good
crops; corn, in the southern counties and some parts of Boulder,
Larimer and Weld counties, make fair returns. Potatoes are ex-
ceptionally fine all over the state. All vegetables do well, and


54 COLORADO—ITS CHARACTERISTICS.
melons yield abundantly. Many kinds of berries are raised suc-
cessfully. Alfalfa makes three crops a year, or eight tons to the acre.
Apples, of late years, have been in the markets from home
orchards.
Coal—The yield of coal in the state for 1887 amounted to
2,500,000 tons.
Prof. Hayden, late U. S. geologist, claims that 100,000 square
miles of Colorado is underlaid with coal. Of this extent it is esti-
mated 30,000 square miles of the coal deposits have an average
thickness of 25 feet. By the usual method of estimating coal in
places this gives a total of over 836,000,000,000 tons. At the pres-
ent Pennsylvania rate of production, it will take nearly 14,000
years to mine out the coal in the state of Colorado.
Iron—Large quantities of iron ore of good quality are often
found in connection with the coal deposits. One deposit is 90
per cent. iron, almost pure metal. Steel rails are now made from
this iron at the Bessemer works, near Pueblo.
Prec1ous Metals—Gold, silver, copper and lead are the prin-
cipal mineral productions of the state, and are found principally
in the most mountainous portions of the state.
PLacER M1n1ng—once quite profitable, is now almost entirely
abandoned.
Quartz M1n1ng—has grown to enormous proportions of late,
and stamp mills and smelting furnaces are scattered all over the
state.
Besides the ore treated in the state thousands of carloads are
shipped annually to eastern and foreign markets.
V1m, V1gor and Push—In a zigzag tour, covering over 4,000
miles in Colorado, we found people from all parts of the world
scattered all over the state, in new towns and camps, valleys and
glens, on mountains and plains, and beside healing waters and
"babbling brooks"—prospecting, mining, farming, stock-raising,
building roads and bridges, smelting works and mills, erecting
large business blocks, selling "corner lots," publishing news-
papers and prosecuting all kinds of business enterprises, with a
vim v1gor aaApush that said—"this country is good enough for us.
We came to stay."
Treasures "crop out."—On one of our tours in Hinsdale
county, we were shown a mountain, one side of which had been
cut away by the action of the waters in past ages, leaving it per-
pendicular and in places overhanging to the height of over 1,000
feet, a number of veins of mineral cropping out from the side in
well-defined bodies, some of which can be traced along the cliff
for miles, and can be seen for miles away. Pieces from these ore
veins have been picked up at the base of the cliff which assayed
over $100 to the ton in silver and a large per cent. of lead. The
location of these ore bodies is well known in the country, but as
they are all the way from 400 to 1,000 feet high, in a perpendicu-
lar cliff, inaccessable to a wingless mortal, they have not been
"staked" or recorded. Another reason is, the mountains are full
of mines, "laying about loose," that are rich, more easy of access
and nearer railroad facilities.
Mounta1n Scenery—The grandest mountains and mountain
scenery is found in Colorado. The highest peaks rise, snow-clad,



HANGING ROCK—CLEAR CREEK CANON, COLORADO.
see s1de tour no. 1—Page 59.
[Page 55.


WAGES PAID IN COLORADO.
57
their way through their 'prison walls while passing to the sea.
The extent of these parks vary, the largest being about 80 miles
long with an average width of 20 miles. The smallest of the num-
ber will not exceed 30 miles in length, with a width of about ten
miles. The M1ddle lies on the Pacific side of the "backbone,"
while the others rest on the Atlantic, their altitude being from
7,000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. They are, in fact,
great upland basins, the reservoirs of the debris which for cent-
uries have washed down the mountain sides. Their soil is fertile,
yielding wild grasses in abundance, furnishing food for vast herds
of cattle, sheep and game. In some of these valleys fine crops of
wheat, oats, potatoes and hay grow successfully. In Europe or
New England, were such valleys found at such an altitude and in
similar latitude, they would be worthless, barren wastes, probably
regions of perpetual ice and snow; but here, settlers make their
homes, raise some kinds of grain and vegetables for markets, cut
hay and graze their cattle in summer on the abundant natural
grasses, read the newspapers, vote the straight ticket, and are
generally happy.
F1nally—Coloradoans, as a class, are working and reading
people, always busy, with no place for drones. Emigrants are
received by old settlers and treated as friends, until they are found
unworthy. The same might be said of business men and tourists.
To all wage-workers and salaried persons, we would say: There is
always work, of some kind, in Colorado for all those who honestly
seek it, but they will need to make a name for honesty, sobriety
and reliability when the door will be opened, to attain any position
and salary that their abilities will warrant. The temptations to
a new comer in a new country are always great, and not more or
less so in Colorado than in any of the frontier states, and success
in all callings is assured to those who avoid them.
Rate of Wages Pa1d 1n Colorado.—For the benefit of
those who contemplate emigrating to Colorado, we have taken
much pains to ascertain and compile a list of wages paid for serv-
ices, covering nearly every occupation in the state. In this task
we have been aided materially by the Leadville Herald-Democrat.
Assayers—per month.
Best men $125 to $175
Helpers 50 to 100
Boys 20 to 40
Barbers—per week.
Good hands 18 to 20
Commission hands, 60 per cent.
*Br1ck and Stone Masons.
Wages vary—$4 to $6 per day.
Bartenders.
Per month $75 to $100
Butchers—per day.
Slaughterers $3.50 to $4
Meat cutters 3.ooto 4
Charcoal—per month (and board),
$50
60
16
Teamsters $40 to
Kiln men 50 to
Choppers, §1 per cord.
*C1gar Makers.
Per 1000 moulds $10
"'- hand-made 15 to
Gamblers—per day.
Day faro dealers $6.00
Night farodealers 7.50
Employes, other games... 4.00 to 6.00
Gas Workers—per mouth.
Stokers $100 to $110
Fitters 90 to 100
Harness Makers—per week.
Good makers $16 to $20
Saddlers 24 to 36
Hotel Employes—per month.
Clerks $30 to $100
Stewards 50 to 125
Cooks 30 to 100
Washers, etc 20 to 30
Waiters 15 to 30
Chambermaids 20 to 30
Laundresses 25 to 30
Porters and bell boys 15 to 30
(Includes board and lodging.)
*Carpenters—per day.
Best men $4.00 to $4.50
Ordinary 3-5oto 4.00
Clerks.
Per month $So to $100
Drug clerks 75 to 100
*Dressmakers—per week.
Best hands 20
Ordinary 8 to 9
* Indicates a demand.
Jewelers and Watchmakers.
Best men, per week $30 to $35
Laundr1es—per day.
Starchers $2.00 to $3.00
Polishers, etc 1.50 to 2.50
Washers 1.50 to 2.00
L1very Stables—per month.
Hostlers $50 to $60
Boy 20 to 40


58 WAGES PAID IN COLORADO.
MINE EMPLOYEs—per month.
Managers...; $250 to 1,000
Superintend , 100 to 500
Foremen ....... . I25 to 250
Shift bosses . IOO to 150
Engineers .. . IOO to 150
Carpenters. . Ioo to 125
Timbermen . 90 to 120
ASSayers.. . I25 to 300
Miners .... 80 to 90
Surface men 75 to 8o
.... 75
In wet mines, $4.00 per day, 8 hours.
MILLINERs – per week...... $IO to $20
MAcHINISTs—per day.
Machinists....... ..#4.00 to $4.25
Boiler makers.. 4.00 to 4.50
Blacksmiths..... 4.00 to 4.25
Blacksmith helpers.. 3.00
Laborers .... 2.50 to 3.00
Moulders. 4.00 to 4.50
Turners... .OO
Apprentices I.00 to I.75
Foremen. 5.00
Bookkeep
3.00 to 4.00
NEwsPAPERs—p
Editors.... $50
Reporters 30
Solicitors 50
Collectors.... 2O
Bookkeepers. 20 to 25
Circulators. 15 to 25
Carriers... 5 to
Job printers. 26
Job foremen. 28 to 30
Compositors, per Iooo, 45 to 50c.
Foreman morning paper 30
Foreman evening paper. 28
Pressmen ... ... 20 to 25
Io to 15
5 to 6
I5 to 20
Teamsters..................... $2.50 to $3.oo
Contract price from 50c. to $3 per
ton; depends on distance and state
of roads.
PLUMBERs, Etc.—per day.
Ditching ------
Teamsters .. .OO
Foremen..... 3.75 to 4.00
Bookkeepers 3.00 to 4.00
Man and team. 8. Oo
Plumbers.... 3.50 to 4.50
Gasfitters.... ... 3.00 to 3.50
PAPER HANGERs—per day.
IDecorators -
Ordinary hanging.
PAINTERs—per day.
Outside men.. ...S3.00 to $3.50
Inside men. 3.00 to 3.50
Grainers..... 3.00 to 4.00
Wagon work 3.00 to 3.50
Signs, per foot. ... 35C. to 1.50
Job painting, 20c, per sq. foot for two
coats. Calcimining 6c. to Sc. per sq.
yard.
PHOTOGRAPHERs—per week.
Printers...... --
Re-touchers
Operators...
Reception r , ic 7 to Io
PLASTERERs—per day.
Good hands................... $4.00 to $6.50
PHYSICIANS-
Consultations with at-
tending physicians.....Io.oo
Mileage, out of city........ 2.OO
Surgical operations from $50 to $500
RAILROAD EMPLOYEs—per month.
Office clerks.. ....# 75 to $125
Check clerks... . 65 to 75
Warehousemen 50 to 60
Watchmen .. 50 to 60
Conductors.. . IOO
Brakemen . 60 to 7
Switchmen .. 60 to 7o
Loc. engineers. . IOO to 150
Loc. firemen.. . 75 to I Io
Dispatchers.... . IOO to 150
Section foremen.. 60 to 7o
& c. hands. 45 to 50
Carpenters...... 75 to 8o
Bridge builders 75 to 8o
Car repairers. 65 to 75
Inspectors ... . 65 to 75
Machinists... . 75 to IIo
*SERVANTs (board and room) — per
month.
General housework......... $25 to $40
Woman cook 35 to 50
SAw-MILLs—per month.
Loggers, and board...: $45
Engineers, and board...... 60 to 75
Ratchet men, and board. 65 to 75
Teamsters, and board....., 40
Head sawyers, $4.00 per day.
SMELTER EMPLOYEs—per day.
Feeders.
.OO
Furnace - 4.00
Charge weighers. 3.50
* - wheelers 3.50
Slag-pot pullers 2.50
Shift bosses. 4.00
Samplers..... 2.50
Roustabouts 2.50
Yard men.. 2.50
Teamsters ... 2.50
SCHOOL TEACHERs—per month.
Sup’t in city. .ŞIoo to $180
Principals. . 8O
Primary, 8O
Intermed ----- .... 70
SHOEMAKERS can earn from $20 to $25
per week.
SURVEYORs—per day.
Transit men...
Chain men..
Surveying city lots...
Surveying mining loca-
tion .................. IO.OO to 25.oo
Surveying experts.
TINNERs—per week.
Good men........................ $18 to $20
By job, laying tin roof, from $7.oo to
§. per sq. yard.
TAILORs—per week.
Journeymen .. ... $25 to $35
Scale wages... .... 20
Most of the work is done by the piece
at an agreed scale of prices.
WAGONMAKERs—$2.50 to $3.00 per day.
CITY LABORERs—$1.50 to $2.00 per day.
COAL MINERs—60c. to 80c. per ton.
GULCH MINERs—$2.00 to $3.00 per day.
CATTLE AND SHEEP HERDERs—$25 to
$35 and board.
COACHMEN-$15 to $30 and board.
OFFICE Boys—S3.00 to $6.oo per week.
*FARM HANDS—$25 to $35 per month
and board.
DINING-RooM GIRLs—$20 to $30 per
month.
* Indicates a demand.
Bragging men only need to look into quiet, cool and deter-
mined eyes to get weak in the knees! They are cowards!
Big braggarts sometimes find their way into mining camps,
but their stay is short.
must be met.
“Put up or shut up” is a requirement that


COLORADO SIDE TOU*S.
59
SIDE TOURS IN COLORADO.
Side Tour No. 1—From Denver to Clear Creek Canon,
Central C1ty, Idaho Spr1ngs, Georgetown, M1ddle Park
and Gray's Peak.
The only rail route that can be taken to these places is via the
(narrow gauge) Colorado Central, branch of the Union Pacific
railway.
There are two regular passenger trains, each way, daily; one at
8 o'clock a. m., the other at 3 o'clock p. m. The morning train is
the best to take.
Sometimes Observat1on Cars are attached to the train, afford-
ing wider and more comprehensive views than can be obtained from
the car windows of the little cars.
Leaving the depot our train moves northward, passing gas-
works, elevators, machine shops and manufactories, a half mile to
the bridge over the Platte river. Soon we commence to climb the
rolling prairie and in two miles Argo is passed, where are located
the Boston & Colorado Smelting works, owned principally by
Ex-Senator Hill.
Half a mile further a beautiful view can be had of Denver,
which lies to the southeast, embowered in shade trees, with scores
of churches, private residences, large commercial buildings and
extensive manufactories standing forth in marked prominence.
To the south is the range of the "Plum creek divide," beyond
which, a little further to the westward, can be seen Pike's peak,
peaking up far above all other surroundings. The Platte river and
valley are close in the eastern foreground, beyond which are the
broad plains, limitless apparently to the eye, while in the western
background are the Rocky mountains, the base of which is near,
but the peaks and the range from north to south are only bounded
by the horizon.
Proceeding a short distance further, the valley of Clear creek
appears suddenly to our vision. It is one of the most fertile in the
state. The soil is rich, black loam, mixed with just enough fine
sand to make it warm and quick to give life to cereals or roots.
For the production of all kinds of vegetables Clear creek valley is
noted.
Descending into the valley we cross the bridge over Clear creek
and run along on its west bank to Arvada, a small hamlet, seven
miles from Denver.
Nearly opposite Arvada, to the south three miles, that big
building is the Catholic college.
Our course is now directly west toward the mountains, cross-
ing Ralston creek and many irrigating canals—for be it known,
these lands have all to be irrigated to be certain of raising a good
crop—to the base of the Table mountains.
These huge "Tables," the outposts or giant sentinels of the
Rocky mountains, are 1,000 feet in height, nearly round, flat on
top, well grassed, and at one time must have been one unbroken
range enclosing a great basin above, where is now the site of Golden.
Clear creek must have been very busy for a great many years
to have cut such a tremendous chasm as the one we are now enter-
ing. Rolling along past smelting, sampling and concentrating


60 GOLDEN—COLORADO.
works, several manufactories and the railroad company's machine
shops, we reach Golden, the "Lowell" of Colorado, 15 miles from
Denver.
Golden—[Pop., 0,624].—Is the seat of Jefferson county; was first,
settled in 1859. Has important advantages as a manufacturing
city from the abundance of water power afforded by Clear creek,
which comes tumbling down the mountains, bisecting the town,
giving power to a score or more of mills and manufactories of dif-
ferent kinds. In early days the placer mines along the creek and
in the vicinity supported the place, when these gave out coal
mining and manufacturing took their place.
The State School of Mines is located here—a noble structure
for the purpose. The number of students in attendance is large
and increasing, while the facilities afforded them for improvement
and advancement, in theory and practice, are not equaled by those
of any like institution in America.
The county and public buildings, business blocks, church and
school buildings, are very generally of brick with stone facings.
Two weekly newspapers—the Globe and Gen. George West's Tran-
script—are published here. The hotels are numerous, but not no-
table. Water is conducted along both sides of the streets, and the
trees bordering the walks add much to the beauty and comfort of
the city.
Leaving Golden our course is westward, directly for the moun-
tains, which rise over 2,000 feet above our road, showing no en-
trance only an impenetrable Gibraltar, against which our little
engine seemed destined to butt; yet on it goes on a perfect tangent,
straight for the towering bulwark, but just as it appears the crash
must come, with no means of escape on either hand, the engine,
with one long, loud blast of defiance, dodges to the left and skirts
its very base directly for the river, but far above. The-prospects
now presented seem favorable for a bath, with the entire train and
passengers for company. We near the brink, the waters thunder-
ing far below; another blast, another whirl (this time to the right)
and we are rolling around the brink of a precipice; another whirl,
and our train is running back upon itself, having circled the moun-
tain finger thrust out, as it were, to bar its progress.
We are now in the mouth of the canon, and the huge fingers of
the mountain are thrust out on each side, interlocking like the
fingers of the hands.
We follow the creek in its tortuous course—in places far above
-—and then on a level with its banks, beside perpendicular cliffs
and beneath overhanging walls 1,000 or more feet in height.
The whole scene changes with every revolution of the wheels, and
to be sure not to miss any grand views, one must keep alert and
watchful all the time.
From four to six miles above the mouth vof the canon, placer
claims were worked in 1859-60, but they have long since been
abandoned.
In those days the beavers did to the creek what many citizens
living below are doing to-day.
Eight miles brings our train to the first stopping place, BEAVER
Brook, named from a small stream, coming in on the left, down a
narrow canon, up which, six miles distant, is located a saw-mill in
a perfect forest of timber. The scenery at this point is grand—the


CLEAR CREEK CANON.
61
mountains are fully 1,000 feet above the road, on either hand, and
covered in places with a dense growth of young pine and spruce
trees, presenting an appearance as wild, picturesque and romantic
as one could wish.
Leaving the station our road makes a 30-degree curve to the
right, up a grade of 272 feet to the mile under a projecting spur of
the mountain, which rises 1,500 feet above our train, while the
creek is close on the right, and thundering along down its narrow
rocky bed.
Elk Creek, a side track for passing trains, is reached one
mile above Beaver Brook, and we continue climbing up, up, be-
tween towering mountain cliffs, in places clothed with evergreen,
pine, cedar and spruce trees, with shrubs of various kinds, until
we reach a point three miles above Elk creek, where the walls on
the west side of the creek slope away, and our train rolls past B1g
H1ll. Here the old Mt. Vernon wagon road comes down the
mountain from the left, the grade of which in places is 34 feet to
100 feet. This road leaves the valley about two miles south of
Golden, and after climbing the mountains via Mt. Vernon canon
to an altitude of 8,000 feet, descends this "hill" and runs up the
north branch of Clear creek to Black Hawk and Central. Many
of the mills and the machinery used in these mountains, in early
days before the railroad, were hauled over this road, and where
the grades were the steepest, the wagons were eased down by
ropes secured by a turn or two around huge pine trees beside the
road. We remember the time where it took ten men, besides their
teams, nine days, to lower down this hill one boiler, the weight of
which was a little over seven tons. Those who grumble at the
railroad, please take notice: The wagon road is still there—try it.
Forks Creek—[Eight miles from Golden; elevation, 6,880 feet].—Is
the junction of North and South Clear creek. Here our train is
divided. The route for Georgetown turns to the left, across the
bridge, while that for Black Hawk and Central keeps to the right.
As we have always had a desire to do right, we will keep to the
right a while longer, and note the result.
From this point to Black Hawk [seven miles]—and we might in-
clude that portion from Floyd Hill to Georgetown, on the South
Fork—nearly every foot of the creek bed has been dug over time
and again, by miners in search of gold. Dams in many places
have turned the waters of the creek through flumes, first on one
side of its bed, then on the other, and the greater portion of the
earth from surface to bed rock, from one side of the gulch to the
other, has been dug and washed over by white men, and when
given up by them has been "jumped " by the Chinese companies,
many of whose people can now be seen daily washing and work-
ing these old "placer diggings " over again.
Two miles above the Forks is
Cottonwood—A side-track—a milk ranch and a water tank.
How convenient!
Nearly opposite this station Russell gulch comes down, up
which are located the old placer mines, so noted in 1859.
A close observer of the working along the creek will get some
idea of the methods adopted in gulch or placer mining.


62 BI.acK HAWK—CENTRAL CITY.
After passing the ruins of several old mills, by looking away up
the mountain side on the left, can be seen the railroad track over
which our train will soon be climbing en-route to Central City.
It is the " switch-back;" observe it well. It is, to say the least,
an evidence of what engineering skill can accomplish.
Passing several quartz mills, samplers and ruins of abandoned
works we cross the creek to the west bank and stop at
Blaek Hawk—[Pop., 2,000; altitude, 8,032 feet],—Gold in paying
quantities was first discovered in this county at this place, by
John H. Gregory, May 6, 1859. During the summer the great
rush of gold-seekers commenced in earnest and the mountains
were overrun with prospectors, every day bringing reports of rich
placer diggings or quartz discoveries.
Here the buildings, mills, churches, stores and residences are
sandwiched in between the gulches, ravines, mines, rocks and pro-
jecting mountain crags in the most irregular manner.
Quartz mills are numerous in and around Black Hawk; the
rattling of their descending stamps night and day speaks in thun-
der tones of the great wealth of this mountain country, one of the
immense treasure chambers of the American continent.
All the citizens are engaged in mining directly or indirectly.
A transfer stage connects at Black Hawk for Central, one and a
half miles distant; fare, 25 cents; by rail it is four miles.
Leaving Black Hawk we start on our zig-zag tour to Central,
on the route above named. The ride is one of great interest.
After proceeding half a mile up North Clear creek our train stops,
the switch is turned and back it goes, but not on the same track.
It is climbing the world at a rapid rate; now it is directly over the
city, then on the steep mountain side beyond; then thunders over
high bridges that span deep and fearful chasms, and stops at the
end of two miles, on the brink of a precipice 400 feet above the
same road up which it came within the hour, quite near enough to
reach with a sling and stone. Again forward and again climbing,
now the track runs parallel with the other two, but each far above
the other. Soon the train rounds the mountain spur opposite
Black Hawk, but 300 feet above, then bears away to the westward,
heading off deep ravines or crossing them on high bridges, over
streets lined on each side with mills, stores and residences, the
homes of the citizens. The views of scenery are the most
varied and surprising; the changes are rapid and wonderful as those
of the kaleidoscope, yet with all the scenic beauty of this western
country within the reach of all, many of our people never visit
them, but sigh for a tour to foreign lands. A few more revolutions
of the wheels and the train is at
Central City—[Pop., 3,400; from Denver, 39 miles; elevation, 8,503 feet;
471 feet higher than Black Hawk].—The seat of Gilpin county. The
Register-Call, a daily and weekly newspaper, enlightens the citi-
zens on the news of the day, while the Teller and American hotels
provide accommodations for the traveling public. Central has
three banks, many quartz mills, numerous churches and schools,
an opera house, and some fine private residences. The latter are
scattered around about the hills, rocks, stumps and prospect holes,
in the most irregular order. Central is the trading centre, for an
extensive chain of mining camps or "diggings," which number
from 20 to 500 inhabitants.


IDAHO SPRINGS—COLORADO.
63
The ore veins of Gilpin county are all true fissures, and there
are many shafts down to the depth of 700 to 2,000 feet. The peo-
ple are generally prosperous—some rich—and the money has been
made here. The froth, scum and driftwood of civilization inci-
dental to mining camps have long since floated away to "new
diggings," leaving a substantial class of citizens, any one of whom
will tell you, with the greatest confidence, "Gilpin county is good
enough for me!"
The character of the gold ores are free-milling white quartz,
and surface dirt.
The; G1lp1n County Tram Ra1lway—a two-foot gauge 12 miles
in length—runs from a connection with the "Central," near Black
Hawk—around the mountains to all the principal ore-producing
mines—hauling coal, timber, lumber, ore, etc., to and from the
mines, mills, and railroad.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South, Idaho Spr1ngs, seven miles, fare $1, six
times a week; to the north, Roll1nsv1lle, 12 miles, fare $2; Nederland, four
miles, fare $2.50; Car1bou, five miles, fare $3, six times a week.
We will now return to the Forks, take the Georgetown train,
cross the bridge and follow up South Clear creek. Soon the train
arrives at a narrow gorge and a sharp curve in the road and creek,
where one of those huge fingers of the mountain projects out,
reaching over to within 200 feet of its tall brother on the opposite
side of the creek; and as the train passes under this overhanging
cliff, we enter a natural amphitheater of immense proportions. The
mountain rises over 2,000 feet above the stream, which is here com-
pressed to a rapid torrent, thundering at its very base. The space
between these towering walls is barely sufficient for the creek and
road; in some places the road-bed had to be blasted out of the moun-
tain side. The scenery here and for the next few miles is very
impressive.
About three miles above the forks the road curves to the right
into the widening of the canon, opposite the base of Floyd hill,
down which comes the old wagon road from Bergens township.
On our way up several old deserted mills are passed, and we will
probably see some work in the placer diggings along the creek.
Idaho Springs—[Pop., 3,500; from Forks, eight miles; Denver, 37
miles; Georgetown, 13 miles; elevation, 7,543].—Is m Clear creek country,
in a beautiful little park nearly two miles long and half a mile in
width, the lands gently sloping southward. The streets are broad,
beside which are rows of planted trees (watered by sparkling
streams), thrifty and beautiful.
The city contains a number of good business blocks, two con-
centrating, one sampling and one stamp mill, a bank, stores of all
kinds, good churches and schools, several hotels—chief of which is
the Springs house—two weekly newspapers, the Gazette and
News. In fact, here can be found all the modern improvements,
and in late years more than ordinary thrift.
In April, 1859, gold was discovered in paying quantities on
what is known now as Chicago creek, a small stream that comes
down from the south, opposite Idaho; but these placer diggings
were soon worked out, and then came the search for quartz mines,
the result of which has made this county one of the most noted in
the mountains as a gold and silver-producing region.
Numerous quartz mills and many rich lodes are situated near
Idaho. The veins are all true fissure, traversing a granite forma-


64 IDAHO SPRINGS—COWJRADO.
tion and carrying gold, silver, copper and lead ores. Many of
these mines have in the past, and are at the present time, yielding
an enormous amount of wealth.
Idaho for its hot and cold mineral springs has become noted as
a health and pleasure resort.
It is claimed the waters contain rare medicinal properties, and
are nearly identical in chemical ingredients and temperature with
the celebrated Carlsbad waters of Germany. However that may
be, they have become renowned and are visited by tourists and
many citizens of Colorado annually.
Prof. Pohel gives the following as the analysis of the water in
proportion to the gallon:
Carbonate of soda 30.S0
""lime 9.52
""magnesia 2.88
""iron 4.12
Sulphate of soda 29.3^
""magnesia 18.72
""lime . 3.44
Chloride of sodium 4.16
""calcium and magnesium, of each a trace
Silicate of soda 4.08
Grains 107.00
At the springs are two swimming baths, one 30 by 50 feet, five
feet deep; the other 20 by 40, and four feet deep. There are also
private baths, varying in temperature from 850 to 1150 Fahr., so
arranged that the bather has full control of the temperature of the
water. The "hot tunnel baths" located here furnishes a natural
vapor bath, so delightfully stimulating in its effects that it is be-
coming quite popular.
There is, within five minutes' walk of the hot sulphur springs,
a cold spring of sparkling, effevescent water, which, for drinking
purposes cannot be excelled.
Idaho Springs is the best outfitting point for Chicago lakes,
made famous by Bierstadt's "Storm in the Rocky Mountains."
Good accommodations can be had at the hotels and boarding
houses at prices ranging from $7 to $14 per week. The wild and
romantic Virginia canon is just to the north of the town, through
which is the wagon road to Central City, seven miles distant;
stage fare in summer, $1. Brookvale is reached by a good wagon
road to the southward, over the mountains 12 miles; fare in sum-
mer, $1.50.
Leaving Idaho and continuing up the north side of the creek,
we come to Trail run, which comes in from the southwest, up
which are some good quartz mines and extensive forests of timber.
Here are located the Freeland mills, and near by are the celebrated
Freeland and Hukill lodes. Fau, R1ver or Spanish Bar is two
miles above Idaho, where comes in from the north a small creek
called Fall river, about eight miles in length, along which are
located 1,000 quartz claims and several mills. Above Fall river,
half a mile, Turkey run comes in from the south, where are found
the Stephens mining properties and mill. A little further on we
have Spring gulch, from the north, where is located some mills
and valuable mines. Dumont, once known as Mill City, is four
miles above Fall river, at the mouth of Mill creek, which comes
in from the north; up this creek are several valuable mines and
mills.
At different points above Idaho are located mills, mines, tun-
nels and extensive mining improvements, which include some


GEORGETOWN—COLORADO.
65
placer mining. Four miles above Dumont is Lawson, at the base
of Red Elephant mountain. Near by are many valuable quartz
mines, the opening or "dump" of some being visible away up near
the top of the mountains, marked by a white deposit line, extend-
ing downwards.
Emp1re C1ty is two miles above Lawson, but not in view, being
about one mile to the westward up the north fork of Clear creek.
The road over the range to the Middle park, via Berthoud pass
[11,350 feet elevation] runs through Empire, and is one of the most
beautiful mountain roads for variety of ever-changing panoramic
views an enthusiast could desire.
After crossing the north fork our course is south, running along
the base of Republican mountain which rises above the road almost
perpendicular 1,250 feet, while on the east, Alpine mountain ele-
vates its crest 2,000 feet high. On the sides of these mountains are
shafts, tunnels and prospect holes in great numbers. Three miles
further the Union pass wagon road can be seen away up the side
of the mountain to the right. It is built through a depression be-
tween Douglas and Democrat mountains, and is bordered on one
side going up and the other going down with steep precipices.
As we proceed the mountains are closing on each side, the
way is narrow, the grade heavy, and the distance six miles from
Lawson to
Georgetown—[Pop., a,171 elevation, 8,476 feet; from Denver, 50 miles]
The seat of Clear Creek county, in the center of the oldest
silver-mining region in Colorado, at the eastern base of the
"snowy .range." The city contains eight stamp mills, one samp-
ling and reduction works, many stores, churches, schools, hotels,
and two weekly newspapers, the Miner and Courier. The princi-
pal hotels are the Hotel de Paris, Barton and St. James.
Secret orders are numerous, fire department efficient, water
supply immense, the water being reservoired 2,000 feet above the
city, at Clear lake, and as soft, clear and cold as it is possible for
water to be. Georgetown, situated as it is at the head of the valley,
walled in on three sides by lofty mountains which protect it from
the wind and storms, the air is of great purity, and the climate,
for the altitude, quite mild. For these reasons, it is cool and de-
lightful in the hot summer months, and of late has become quite
an attractive summer resort.
This is strictly a mining town—silver principally. The first
discovery of silver in Colorado was made by Mr. James Huff, Sep-
tember 14th, 1864; the location, about eight miles above Georgetown.
There are thousands of mines in the vicinity of the town. Many
are being worked successfully, and large quantities of the white
metal have been taken from the ground in this vicinity.
Resorts—Green lake, three miles south from Georgetown, is
one of the most charming little resorts in the state. It is reached
by an easy wagon road that winds up the side of the mountains,
from which there is a fine view of Georgetown and the valley
below. This beautiful body of water, half a mile long by a quar-
ter wide, is without a peer in any land. Altitude, 10,400 feet above
sea level. In a row in one of the boats, the tourist can see the
petrified forest standing upright many feet below the surface, with
trout among the branches. The fish are very tame, eating from
the hand. Tourists are allowed to fish at a charge for each fish
5



GREEN LAKE—COLORADO.
caught; many of them weigh from four to five pounds.
The boat charges are 25 cents per hour. A good hotel
and accomodations are provided at the lake for a limited number
of tourists at reasonable charges. See illustration.
Clear Lake—Is half a mile above Green lake. Is stocked with
California salmon, many of which weigh from seven to eight


MIDDLE PARK—GRAND LAKE.
67
pounds. The lake is 2,000 feet higher than Georgetown, and the
source of the water supply for that city is obtained here.
Elk Lake—Is six miles farther up from Clear lake, at the edge
of "timber line," and is much larger. The shores are sandy, with
scattering timber and evergreens, among which are many varieties
of flowers. One can pick flowers and gather snow at the same
time. Many of the surrounding peaks are over 12,000 feet in
height. Game, such as bear, deer, elk, grouse and quail, can be
found in the vicinity.
"Gem OF THE Cord1llERES "—is still another lake, farther
up, above "timber line." It is about half the size of Green lake.
On the west of this chain of lakes, overlooking the first two,
rises Pain's peak. It is reached by a good wagon road, is four
miles from Georgetown, and should be visited by all tourists, par-
ticularly those who feel that they have not the time ta make the
tour of the lakes, but desire a "bird's eye" view of a most charm-
ing bit of Colorado scenery.
Middle Park—Is reached by four-horse coaches from George-
town, which leave three times a week, for as follows: North five
miles to Emp1re C1ty; thence northwest, via Berthoud pass, 21
miles to Fraser, and 12 miles to Coulter; thence North eight
miles to Selak, and northeast 13 miles to Grand Lake; total 56
miles. From Coulter west, ten miles to Hot Sulphur Spr1ngs;
total, 47 miles. Fare, round trip, $11.
Grand Lake—Town—Is the seat of Grand county, and for wild
and romantic surroundings, is grand and beautiful in the extreme;
and its hotel accommodations are also very good. It is situated
on the banks of Grand lake—the head and source of Grand river
—a lovely sheet of pure spring water, about three miles in length
and two miles in width, surrounded on all sides by towering pine
and spruce trees, and on three sides by lofty mountains, the peaks
of which are covered with a perpetual mantle of snow. Boats are
kept on the lake for rent, also fishing tackle, etc., as the lake
contains an abundance of the finest trout. The town residents in
winter do not exceed 150, but in the summer double that number.
A general merchandise store, a hotel, post office, one weekly news-
paper, the Prospector, and a saw-mill, comprise the town.
Hot Sulphur Spr1ngs—Is a small town situated on the east
bank of Grand river at the head of Troublesome canon. Several
stores, three livery stables, two hotels—Kinney and Querey—a
dozen or more rustic summer houses comprise the town. Many
people come here in oummer and camp for months. The hot
springs are located on the west side of the Grand river, reached
by a substantial wagon road bridge, and have become quite noted.
The waters boil up from the base of a cliff at a temperature of 117
degrees.
Analysis of 100,000 parts of water made by Prof. Mallett, Jr., is:
Carbonate of soda 38-44
"lithia Trace
"lime n.02
"iron 2.34
Sulphate of potassa 2.90
"soda 43-06
Chloride of sodium 22.48
Ammonia Trace
qp
Total 120.24
Gases Car. a. c.


G8
THE LOOP—SILVER PLUME.
The bathing accommodations consist of a swimming bath in a
stone building, and four small private bath rooms. On the east
side of the river is a cold sulphur spring, but it is "running wild,"
and not in condition for use. Game—feathered, haired and scaled—
on plain, mountain, and in river are abundant.
SEE ALSO LARGE VIEW NO. 2

From Georgetown west, the train hugs the mountain close on
the left and south of the city, and turns up Clear creek directly for
the end of the track at Graymont. The grade is heavy and the
route tortuous. All are breathless with expectation, as there seems
to be only high mountains in front, with no opening for our little
train—the track cannot be seen a dozen yards ahead—when just as
one of our surprised fellow-travelers was saying "this is the devil's
own road," the fiendish engineer dashes our train screeching into
the "Devil's Gate." Some of our passengers dodged; many sniffed
the air enquiringly as to the temperature, causing others to smile,
but all rushed to the windows and stood as though transfixed alter-
nately with fear, wonder and delight at the astonishing panorama
passing rapidly before their eyes. A rail track can be seen high
up on the side of the mountain, to the left, and another across the
creek to the right—three parallel tracks—and in the near distance
ahead, a bridge spanning the stream. About the same time our
engineer must have made the same discovery and resolved to run
over all the tracks. The locomotive screeched and made for the
bridge and started back toward Georgetown on the west side track. .
Suddenly it seemed to have changed its mind and at the same
time its course, as another bridge is crossed [probably the "bridge
of sighs," as it was directly over the "bridal veil "], and away west-
ward we rush again, "climbing the world." All for a few minutes
seemed fair ahead when suddenly, like the snapping of a whip
the train whirls to the "left face " and is running toward George-
town again. We are certain now the engineer has lost his head,
when again the whip snaps, and around we go once more headed
for the west.—[See large view No. 2).
Silver Plume—[Pop., 700; all engaged in mining!.—Situated on
Clear creek, two miles west of Georgetown by wagon road, but
by rail four and a half miles, as it is just above where the rail-
tracks get mixed. First, the train runs into the "Devil's Gate,"
then turns back, crosses over the "bridal veil," making a "three-
ply, horse shoe," a double "ox bow," but never for a hundred
feet does it make a tangent on the whole distance.
From the Plume it is one mile to the little mining town of
Brownsv1lle—[pop., 200]—and three more to the end of the track.


GRAY'S PEAK—SIDE TOUR NO. 2.
Graymont—[58 miles from Denver].—At Graymont take saddle
animals and commence to climb the mountains, following up
Grizzly gulch six miles to Kelso's cabin, from which it is about one
mile to the summit of the "peak." A wagon road extends from
Graymont to Kelso's cabin and carriages can be procured for that
distance, if desired. In the tourist season the railroad company
sell "round trip" tickets from Denver to the very top of the peak.
Their rate is $9, including horse and guide from Graymont. The
horses are safe and the guides experienced. Ladies may make the
trip assured of care and attention. The hotel at Graymont is good
and will accommodate large parties comfortably. Parties of less
than three will have to pay $3.35 extra for guide. To three or
over there will be no extra charge. For $9.25 the ticket will read
via Central, and be good for five days.
Gray's peak and Torrey's peak are near each other. The first
is 14,441 feet, the second 14,336 feet above sea level. From the
summit of Gray's peak, should the sky be clear, which is not
uncommon, can be seen in a straight line, 35 miles to the south-
west, the Mt. of "Holy Cross;" 86 miles southeast, "Pike's
peak ;" 33 miles west of south, Mts. "Lincoln" and "Bross ;"
145 miles south, Mts. "Blanca" and "Baldy ;" 52 miles east of
north, "Long's peak," besides hundreds of lesser peaks, such as
Antero, Buckskin, Castle, Culebra, Elbert, Evans, Gothic, James,
Massive, Princeton, Quandary, Shavano, Yale, etc.; in fact the
view is almost unlimited. [To make the ascent, take heavy coats
and wraps, and let stimulants alone.]
The scenery t1p the route of Clear creek canon is very beautiful,
and after reaching the summit of the '' peak,'' one of the grandest
mountain views in the world lies before the tourist. Should you
see the sunset from the summit of this grand old mountain it
would be indescribable; should you see it rise, you would feel like,
exclaiming with the poet:
"The hills—the everlasting hills—
How peerlessly they risei
Like earth's gigantic sentinels
Discoursing 1n the skies!"
This tour is one of the most attractive and cheapest that can be
made from Denver, yet each of our tours have peculiar features
of their own, and none should be omitted.
Side Tour IVIo. 2—From Denver to. Platte Canon,
Kenosha, South Park, Fa1r Play, Buena V1sta, St. Elmo,
Alp1ne Tunnel to Gunn1son C1ty
Taking the (narrow gauge) cars on the South Park branch of
the Union Pacific, at 8 o'clock, a. m., we arrive at ST. Elmo, 153
miles from Denver, at 5:30 p. m. Here we remain over night, have
an opportunity to look around, and leave at 10:30 in the morning,
passing through the great Alpine tunnel, and reaching Gunnison
City at 5:30 p. m., affording a daylight view of the entire route.
On this line there is only one passenger train a day.
From the Union depot our route is south, crossing Cherry
creek, and through the low lands of West Denver, then across the
Platte river to its west bank, reaching Bear Creek Junct1on (in
six miles), now called Moorv1llE.


70 MORRISON BRANCH—PLATTE CASON.
The Morr1son branch turns west from this point, up Bear
creek, nine miles to
Morrison—[Pop., 400; from Denver, 17 miles].—At the entrance of
Bear canon. The principal occupation of the Morrisonians is con-
nected with the stone quarries near the town. All the best red
stone used for building purposes in Denver comes from this place.
The principal objects of interest to the tourist in this vicinity are
the soda lake, the springs of soda, sulphur and iron, Bear canon,
Turkey creek canon, the "Garden of the Angels," the game in
the near mountains, and the trout in the streams. The scenery in
many places is grand and beautiful.
About one mile from the junction we come to Sher1dan Sta-
t1on and "Uncle Sam."
Fort Logan —Occupies a commanding position on a high
plateau near the station, selected by "Little Phil" himself, and
established in 1887. The post is in command of Maj. G. K. Brady,
and garrisoned by companies A and E of the 18th Infantry.
Littleton—Is a little town of 500 population, three and a half
miles from Sheridan. It is a town with great expectations, standing
astride the Platte river, with one foot beside the rail track of the
Union Pacific system, and the other by the Denver & Rio Grande,
and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. "Truck-farming, stock-
raising and manipulating corner lots," are the principal occupations
of the citizens.
Eight miles more, through some fine truck fields, we enter the
mouth of
Platte Canon—[Enterprise P. O., 20 miles from Denver].—One
mile above the station, nearly ten years ago, a company of Eng-
lish capitalists commenced the construction of a canal—usually
called the ''high line canal,'' to take the water from the Platte river
and conduct it eastward over the prairies back of Denver for irri-
gating, manufacturing and domestic purposes. At the initial point
a dam was constructed, just above a sharp turn in the river caused
by a projecting spur of the mountains coming down from the
southward; a tunnel was cut 700 feet in length, 20 feet wide and
10 feet high, taking the water from above the dam. It is then
conducted along by a flume, cut out of the side of the canon walls,
at an elevation sufficient to cover 59,250 acres of the rich slopes
and valley lands of the Platte river, for a distance of 83 miles.
The capacity of the canal is 1,184 cubic feet per second.
From Denver to the mouth of the canon the railroad grade is
light, but for the next 40 miles it is in places 170 feet to the
mile. Entering the mouth of the canon the road turns west,
crosses and recrosses the river many times while ascending the
narrow gorge between towering mountains. Some are 2,000 feet
in height, and almost overhanging the road. In places these
mountains are sloping and covered with pine, spruce and cedar
trees; in the summer the shrubs, moss, ferns and countless flowers
clinging to and growing from every nook and crevice present a
scene of gorgeous beauty—a scene where the God of nature has dis-
played His handiwork far beyond the comprehension of mortal
beings.
The Chinese catch, dry and ship home to China, a large amount of sturgeon
and salmon at points on the Columbia river.


PLATTE CANON—KENOSHA HIM,. 71
Five miles np, Stephen's Gulch; another mile, Deansbury,
where is a large summer boarding house; three miles, South
Platte; two miles, Dome Rock, a mammoth dome-shaped rock,
on the south side, far up the mountain side. A short distance
above a foot bridge spans the river to a little park, which, in the
summer, is a great resort for picnic parties from the valley. •
Passing Dome rock, we are whirled along over a solid road-bed,
through and around the projecting mountain spurs, with rapid and
ever-changing scenery on either side; two miles brings us to Ver-
m1ll1on; then two to Park S1d1ng or Last Resort; three to
Buffalo, three to P1ne Grove, three to H1ldebrand's and
three to Thompson's. The last six stations named above are of
little interest to the traveler, being for the accommodation of
wood choppers and lumbermen in the vicinity.
Two miles more is Crosson's, where is located the Saxonia
Smelting & Refining works, as there are some rich mines in the
vicinity. Just above, the canon becomes a narrow gorge, with per-
pendicular or overhanging cliffs rising to a great height, bare and
grand in their rugged outlines. A few more revolutions of the
wheels and the mountain sides slope away, and we are at
Estabrook Park—Four miles from Crosson's. This place
presents some attractions as a summer resort, particularly to those
fond of hunting and fishing. In the adjacent country, deer, bear,
and other game are quite plentiful, and in Deer creek and other
small creeks that reach the Platte river near here, trout of the finest.
Three miles further is Ba1ley's. Here the near mountains on
either side are low and covered with a young growth of pine and
cedar trees, with high timber-covered elevations in the distance.
Passing Slaght's in four miles, Grant in seven, Webster in
three, our train curves to the right up Hall's gulch; then, by
looking-/ay up the mountain side to the left, can be seen the road-
way over which we will soon be traveling and looking down to this
point. As our little train labors up a grade of 158 feet to the mile,
in and out around the fingers of the mountain (at one moment on
the end of the finger, only a few inches from a perpendicular drop
of hundreds of feet, then shying away with a shriek of defiance up
the other side of the finger, which is the turning point in a narrow
canon gorge), the same is repeated time and time and again until
the summit is reached, and our train stops at
Kenosha—[Elevation, 9,972 feet; 76 miles from Denver].—The air at
this point is rather thin, but then it may be well to try and get
accustomed to it, as we shall stand 1,624 feet higher before the tour
is ended.
Leaving the station a few miles brings our train to the extreme
southern point of Kenosha hill, and as it curves away to the west
and northward, one of the finest views in America, if not in the
world, can be seen. The valley of the South Park, 50 miles in length
by 10 in width, is before your eye in all its beauty. It is bordered
on the east by a heavily timbered range, 2,000 feet above the valley,
while to the west, the "snowy range"—the summit of the "rockies"
—extend as far as the eye can reach. In this range in plain view
are a number of the highest peaks in Colorado, among which are
the Guyot, Hamilton, Lincoln, Bross, Buckskin, Horseshoe and
Silver Heels, that vary in altitude from 13,565 feet to 14,336 feet
above the level of the ocean. (See Must ration on next page.)



plftt
strexai
From the standpoint of Kenosha hill can be seen the track of
our road in places for full 40 miles, as it winds away to the south-
ward. Towns, villages, stations, the Platte river and tributaries,
farm houses, ranches and numberless flocks and herds can be
seen, fairly rivalling the famed "valley of Bagdad," of ancient story.
In the "park" and adjoining mountains game, such as ante-
lope, deer, elk, bear, mountain lions, grouse and rabbits, are
plentiful, with an occasional band of mountain sheep, while the
streams are alive with the finest trout.


T
© THE
Tfom,
-=s> *^><=b. -=i-

T'S A LONG JOURNEY from St. Louis to the '-Golden Gate,"
but the traveler may reach the goal of his desire by several routes.
He may choose just the particular section of the great West
which he desires to see; for, in these days, railroads are almost as plen-
tiful as wagon roads, and if one is bound for "Frisco," or Portland or
any point on the Pacific coast, he may enjoy considerable latitude in
choosing his route, since all west-bound lines are finally focused at the
same points.
T^RU routes proposed-
From St. Louis to Kansas City, the main line of the Missouri Pacific
road offers a charming day's journey. The traveler who does not already
know how beautiful the suburbs of St. Louis are, will find an agreeable
surprise in store for him on this trip. The train, as soon as it climbs out
of the Mill Creek valley, where St. Louis west-bound roads find their
terminal accommodations, passes at once into a lovely suburban district
which stretches away for miles, where picturesque villas are surrounded
by trim lawns, flower gardens, orchards and vineyards. The country is
rolling, intersected by deep ravines through which clear streams flash
beneath the sunlight. Then the Meramec river is reached, its tortuous
course and bluffy sides adding a new feature of beauty to the changing
scene. Wide stretches of meadow land where the cattle graze in peace,
orchards, farm lands, woodlands, gardens, vineyards; here and there a
town, then a thriving western city, until the train comes at last to that
wonderful place, which has literally sprung up in a night—Kansas City,
near the mouth of the Kansas river.
Once, in Philadelphia, the Mayor of Kansas City was introduced at a
banquet as "a gentleman who lived in the far West." The reply rather
startled the guests, for, with an assurance born of fact, the answer came
promptly, "I do not live in the far West, gentlemen, I live in the town
where people begin their journeys when they start to go West." That
answer contained the secret of Kansas City's prosperity. All roads
lead to Kansas City—that is, all western roads which cross "the plains"—
and Kansas City shares with Omaha the distinction of being the entrepot
to the West.
To Q$tiV$r arjd BQor\d.
SHE traveler starts for the West from Kansas City. If Denver,
Colorado, is his objective point, he may take the Kansas division
of the Union Pacific, and speed away over the wide plains of Kansas,
slowly "climbing the hill" as his train moves westward, for the whole
State of Kansas is, topographically speaking a sloping plain, with its
lower edge on the bank of the Missouri river, and its top among the
foothills of the mountains along the Colorado border. This journey will
lead one through the great corn State of the West, and show him the
wonders of western farm lands. From Denver the route west to Salt
Lake, Ogden, San Francisco, or the cities in the extreme Northwest, is
by the direct lines of the Union Pacific road.


No. 2.
SEE PAGE 68.
THE GREAT LOOP,



EN ROUTE TO GRAY'S PEKK.
Near Georgetown, Colorado.


To Orpal^a arjd S$yorjd«
ZT NOTHER ROUTE, via the Missouri Pacific's line, follows the bank
3 ~^^»^> of the great river, "the mighty Missouri," through the cities
of Atchison & Nebraska City to Omaha. This, also, is a pleasant journey,
offering a change of scene, with many charming glimpses of the wide
waters of the turbulent stream. No other river on earth drains such a
fertile and wide extended district as the Missouri. The Nile and the
Amazon are its sisters, but the Missouri flows through a land where intelli-
gent freemen, not slaves, nurse the fruitful earth which it waters. The
stream is navigable from its mouth, near Alton, Illinois, to Fort Benton,
in Montana, and a boat may be laden at Pittsburgh, in Pennsylvania, and
discharge its cargo under the bluffs which rise behind Fort Benton.
Trace out the course of this river steamer on the map, and try to realize,
1f you can, how wonderful are the possibilities of the fert1le valleys
drained by the western rivers.
At Omaha the main line of the Union Pacific is reached, stretching
westward through Nebraska. A full description of this journey will be
found elsewhere in this volume.
To pii£bTo9 5env$i - aH^ th$ Wfcst.
JNE other route from Kansas City to the West remains. If the
traveler would reach Pueblo before coming to Denver, he may
take the Missouri Pacific's "Colorado Short Line." and pass through
Kansas south of the Kansas Division of the Union Pacific, described
above. On this line there is the same general character of scenery as
that found on the Union Pacific line. Colorado Springs is reached by a
short ride over the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad from Pueblo. Here,
under the shadow of the Rocky mountains, with Pike's Peak as an eternal
sentinel, nestles the city of Colorado Springs, with several thousands of
people. It has an elevation of over 6,000 feet above the level of the sea,
and is sheltered on the north and west by high ranges of mountains.
The town is laid out in broad avenues and streets, along which, on both
sides, are planted rows of beautiful shade trees.
The city commands a view of the entire Pike's Peak range from
north to south; to the east, the rolling prairie forms a striking contrast
to the rugged mountains; on the north, the heavily timbered Divide
region furnishes the third characteristic to a view embracing mountain,
plain and woodland. This magnificent landscape picture can be seen
from its streets with ever-increasing pleasure. It stands out sufficiently
from the mountains to possess all the advantages of the plains, without
any of their disadvantages. It is so near the mountains that it places its
residents in easy access co the canons, parks and caves which range in a
semi-circle about the city. To the south are H. H.'s flower garden,
Cheyenne toll road, Cheyenne canons; to the west. Bear Creek cation;
passing around the north, Manitou with its hundreds of places of inter-
est, the Garden of the Gods. Glen Eyrie. Blair Athol; and. in the north-
east. Austin bluffs. These places are all within a distance of five to eight
miles. They add to the pleasure of the tourist and stimulate the health-
seeker to drive or ride. The rugged mountain trails and rocks-afford an
abundant opportunity to the more adventurous.
To the north lies Monument park, to the northeast, Templeton's gap
and Austin's bluff By taking the road to the east, which leads over the
plains, one gets an extended plain and mountain view, embracing tne
whole of Pike's Peak range, a part of the Sangre De Cristo range and
the Spanish peaks on the line between Colorado and New Mexico. A
very fine view of the city, and the plateau upon which it is built, is also
afforded. To the southeast there is a pleasing drive down the Fountain
valley, bordered on both sides by finely improved ranches. To the
south a road leads to Dead Man's canon. H. H.'s flower garden, and
the Cheyenne canons. To the southwest one can drive to Bear creek
and Red Rock canon, while Manitou (distant five miles) and its variety
of scenery are reached either by steam or electric cars.
From Pueblo to Denver close connections are made, and the traveler
continues his westward journey over the Union Pacific line.


LONDON BRANCH—FAIRPLAY.
73
Descending into the park, JEFFERSON is the first station, four
miles from Kenosha, on Jefferson creek. Stock-raising, hay cut-
ting and mining—gold, silver and coal—are the chief occupations
of about 60 settlers.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast to Modnta1ndale, 27 miles, once a
week. -
Two miles and we cross Tarryall creek—up which three miles,
in 1860, was a booming mining town known as "Tarryall diggings."
Then many hundred people worked along the creek in the gulches,
and away up the mountain canons. It was here the writer first saw
the scheme of placer mining and the day was July 5, 1860. At
that date the "scheme " was to sell out. We noted the situation,
did not bite, but departed for Denver a wiser " tenderfoot." The
placers gave out and were abandoned.
ComO—[Pop., 800; from Denver, 88 miles; elevation, 9,775 feet].—Is a
regular meal station and the junction of the Leadville branch,
which turns to the northwest from here, over the mountains. We
shall interview it in due time. Extensive coal mines are located near;
also some quartz mines a few miles to the westward. The coal
veins are from seven to ten feet thick of good coking quality—
are owned by the railroad company, who use large quantities them-
selves and ship much more.
The appearance of the mountain ranges for the next 20 miles
presents new beauties and surprises at every turn. And as the
train winds around in and out of the spurry fingers thrust out from
the huge ranges on each side, the scene is kaleidoscopic and beau-
tiful in the extreme.
From Como it is five miles to Red H1l1,, then nine miles to
Arthurs, from which it is two miles to
GftFOs—[Pop., 50; from Denver, 104 miles; elevation, 9,172 feet].—S1tu-
ated on a branch of the South Platte river, at the junction of the
London Branch of the Union Pacific system. This line fol-
lows up the valley of the Platte, to the northwest, directly for the
mountains.
FtlirplJiy—[Pop., 300; from Garos, 10 miles; Denver, 114 miles; elevation,
9,886 feet].—It is the seat of Park county, one of the oldest mining
towns in Colorado. It is situated on the middle fork of the South
Platte river. Placer mining in early days, was the sole occupation
of the settlers; some work of the kind is still done, but stock-
raising and quartz mining overshadow all other kinds of business.
Of late, many of the old abandoned placer mines are being worked
over by the Chinese.
The Mosquito, Horseshoe and several other mining districts lie
on the park slope of the mountains, the base of which is five miles
to the westward. These districts are said to contain some of the
best mines in the state. At Fairplay there is one smelting furnace,
another about two miles west on Sacramento gulch and the Hol-
land works on Pennsylvania gulch, three and a half miles west.
The Flume is a weekly paper, and the Bergh the principal
hotel here.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southwest to Platte Stat1on, 13 miles, once a
week. - - -
London—[From Fairplay, five and a half miles; elevation 10,228 feet].
A small mining town of about 50 population, containing one
ore concentrator and a small stamp-mill. It is the end of our road.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North one and a half miles, to Alma, six times a
week.


74 SALT—DID NOT SAVE.
Alma—Is a mining camp containing about 300 population, sit-
uated at the junction of Buckskin creek vith the Middle Fork of
the Platte river. It has one sampling works and a variety of stores,
hotels, and one weekly newspaper. Some of the placer mines in
the vicinity are said to pay well, and several companies are engaged
in hydraulic mining.
The quartz lodes carry gold, silver, copper and lead. Park
C1ty, a small mining town, is two miles west.
The scenery about Alma is very grand, as it is situated at the
base of Mt. Lincoln, altitude, 14,296 feet, and Mt. Bross. It is on
the Mosquito pass road, over the mountains to Leadville; distance,
17 miles.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: From London, one and a half miles, six times a
week; also, west to Park C1ty, two miles, six times a week.
le tourist will find a trip over this branch of the road a
sojourn and ramble about the old placers and other mines in the
vicinity, and a climb up and around Mts. Lincoln and Bross near
at hand, a tour of great interest, conducive to health and general
information.
From Garos south, the park widens, hay fields are seen, but
the stock-raisers possess the park range very generally; several
small stations are passed as well as the main stream of the South
Platte, and numberless small creeks.
Salt that did not save. After crossing the Platte river salt
marshes and lakes of salt water appear. Near on the left are
located the first and only salt works in Colorado, and thereby
"hangs a tale." When these works were erected in 1864 all the
salt used in the whole western country had to be freighted from the
Missouri river, 700 miles away, at a cost for freight alone of from
five to 30 cents per pound. When the springs near the works
were discovered they were thought to be very valuable, and no
little contention arose as to the title. However, the first claims
were settled, the works erected and salt making commenced, and
proved very profitable for a time, until, as is too often the case in
the west, litigation commenced between partners, followed by
injunction after injunction, until all parties interested were impov-
erished. Meantime the railroads were advancing day by day which
meant cheap salt. The lawyers commenced their work in 1865,
and succeeded in closing the works in 1867. The lawyers got the
works and the owners got salted.
Passing on, our train soon begins to climb the southern rim of
the park.
Hill Top—Is on the top or summit of Trout creek pass; alti-
tude, 9,460 feet. Here the waters divide, on the east side finding
their way into the Platte, and on the west side into the Arkansas
river. From this little station we fairly fall away to the valley of
the Arkansas, nearly 2,000 feet, in the next 26 miles. Near this sta-
tion comes in the Midland railroad from Colorado Springs.
From Hill Top we obtain the first view of the great Sawache
range, which separates the Gunnison and San Juan country from
the valley of the Arkansas. The drainage from the west side goes
to the Pacific ocean, that on the east to the Atlantic. Across these
mountains we must pass in about a southwest direction from this
station.


BUENA VISTA—HOT SPRINGS.
75
Two miles from Hill Top is a little station called D1v1de, where
are located a store, a saw-mill, and a few settlers, and about one mile
below on the right can be seen the largest and finest spring of
fresh cold water in the state. It is the head of Trout creek, and
the crystal fluid fairly rushes out beneath a high cliff close to the
road. Just below on the left side are others, but not as large. In
the streams flowing from these springs and in the creek, "speckled
beauties " are very abundant; those fond of fine trout take notice.
MeCJeeg—[From Hill Top, seven miles; elevation, 8,648 feet].—Some-
times called "Trout City," is situated in a romantic little park of
fine scenery; haired game is abundant in the hills and trout in the
creeks, all then that is wanted after "bagging" the game is a
good cook and a good appetite, which last you are pretty sure to
have if you catch the game.
Descending the creek at a rapid rate, with towering mountain
ridges—pine-clad—on each side, we'come in view of the Arkansas
valley. Six miles from McGees our train crosses the Arkansas
river, and stops a moment at Schwanders, a junction station,
turns north, four miles up the valley to
ltlll'llil ViStil—[Pop., 2,000; from Denver, 136 miles; Leadville, 36
miles; elevation, 7,943 feet].—Is the seat of Chaffee county, situated at
the junction of Cottonwood creek with the Arkansas river; the
county buildings, churches and schools, as well as some business
blocks and hotels, are creditable structures. Here we find a cozy
little opera house which seats 300 people; there are several hotels,
but little choice. The city has a system of water works, and two
newspapers— Times and Herald, both weekly.
The construction of irrigating canals has made available for
agricultural purposes hundreds of acres of land in the vicinity of
the tow 1, once covered with scrub pines and cedar trees.
Mining and stock-raising is the principal occupation of the
settlers in the vicinity, yet some small grains and vegetables are
raised successfully.
To the west, ranging north and south, is the Sawache range of
mountains, sometimes called the "Collegiate." Directly opposite
Buena Vista rises Mt. Yale; elevation, 14,187 feet; to the south-
west, ML Princeton; elevation, 14,199 feet; to the northwest, Mt.
Harvard; elevation, 14,383 feet. The bases of these mountains are
from eight to 12 miles away, rising from the valley without inter-
vening foot-hills.
Cottonwood Hot Spr1ngs—Are situated at the mouth of Cot-
tonwood canon six miles west and connected by stage with Buena
Vista. For cases of inflammatory rheumatism, lead poisoning and
diseases of the blood, these waters possess remarkable curative
properties. The scenery of the valley in which the springs are
situated is of great loveliness—the Collegiate range of mountains
forming an imposing back-ground. Fine trout fishing can be
found in ten minutes' walk up and down Cottonwood creek, and
the neighboring hills abound in game.
Cottonwood Lake—Is six miles west of the hot springs up
the creek. It is a beautiful little sheet of water and swarming
with the finest trout, and in season the hillsides are covered with
wild raspberries, currants and strawberries.
Connect1ons — Denver & Rio Grande and Colorado Midland railroads,
and stages for Cottonwood Springs.


76 DBTOUR—TO TWIN LAKES.
Detour—A. very interesting detour can be made from Buena
Vista by taking either the Denver & Rio Grande, or the Colorado
Midland northward, as follows:
The country, as we proceed, is rough, broken and covered with
scrub pines and cedars, sandwiched with sage brush and garnished
with bunch-grass. Ten miles north from Buena Vista and we are
directly opposite Mt. Harvard.
Oranite—[Pop., 1o0; from Buena Vista, 18 miles].—Was a mining
town in 1861 and has had a number of ups and downs. It has now
a few stores, powder mill, smelting works and "goodprospects."
Clear creek reaches the Arkansas from the west—opposite
Granite. On this creek only a few miles distant, placer mines are
being worked and—reports say—"they are paying well," but the
"placers" are about mined out in this section of country, and the
stock-men have taken possession and are doing well.
La Platta peak is directly west; altitude, 14,311 feet.
Connect1ons — Mail hack: West to V1cksburg, 11 miles; W1nf1eld,
four miles, six times a week; also, northwest to Inter Laken, six miles; Tw1n
IvAKes, three miles, six times a week.
Twin Lakes—the most charming, quiet summer resort in
the mountains—is situated at the eastern base of the Sawache
range of mountains at an altitude of 9,333 feet on Twin Lake
creek, an important tributary of the Arkansas river. Hunter's
pass is directly west, and Lake Creek pass to the southwest. The
lower lake covers 1,525 and the upper 475 acres, the length being
about double the width. The upper lake is about five feet the
higher, connected by a small stream, which ripples over a pebby
bottom clear, pure and cold, half a mile in length through grassy
meadow lands studded with scattering shade trees, affording
delightful grounds for campers or picnic parties. The surround-
ings are most grand and beautiful. Just to the head of the lakes
on the north stands Mt. Elbert, uncovered except by a mantle
of snow, in respect for the beauties on every side, at an altitude of
14,360 feet, or 5,027 feet above the level of the lakes. To the
south, opposite, are the Twin peaks and Grizzly, some less in
altitude, but none the less beautiful in their varied coloring of
green, gray and gold. The lakes lie in a general direction from
east to west; on the south side the mountains rise from the
water's edge, covered with pine, spruce, aspen trees and shrubs,
extending to the timber-line, where game of all kinds is abundant,
including the grizzly bear, mountain grouse and quail. On the
north side along the shore is a good carriage road, and a grassy
bottom, back of which the country is a rolling prairie, with bluffs
near the base of the mountains covered with a scrubby growth of
pine and cedar trees. The accommodations for tourists consist of
five hotels and a number of small cottages.
The lakes abound in trout. Boats and tackle are provided at
the hotels, and those that could not be happy at Twin Lakes we
fear will find the great hereafter an uncomfortable abiding place.
Besides the hotels and cottages the place has a post office,
store, restaurants and saloons, and to the westward some good
"prospects" for minerals—gold and silver. Resident population
about 250, many of whom are engaged in the mines.
Had the Pilgrims landed on the Pacific coast instead of Plymouth Rock, that
old "blarney stone" would now be surrounded by the nat1ve nomadic races.


HORTENSES—ST. ELMO.
77
From Buena Vista our train turns back to Schwanders, and
branches to the southward, crossing the track of the Denver & Rio
Grande railway in three miles and reaching the junction station of
STathrop—[Eight miles, from Buena Vista].—This is a small station
situated on the west bank of the Arkansas river at the junction of
Chalk creek, which comes down from the west, and the Denver
& Rio Grande railway.
At Nathrop our course is directly west up Chalk creek, four
miles to Haywards and one mile more to
HortenSe—[Pop., 200; from Denver, 142 miles; elevation, 8,169 feet].
Is noted for Hortenses. Here are the famous Hortense hot springs,
and the Hortense group of mines, the Hortense post office, and the
Hortense hotel, kept by Hortense. The Hortense mine is said to
be a Hortense "bonanza", while the Hortense springs are recom-
mended for their curative properties in cases of rheumatism, etc.
From a few miles west from Nathrop the railroad is built along
the creek bank, with high bluffs on both sides, the distance grad-
ually narrowing, until just above Hortense the contraction takes
the shape of a mountain gorge, and well it may, as Mt. Princeton
rises from the water's edge on the north to an altitude of 14,199
feet, while on the south and directly opposite towers Mt. Antero,
14,245 feet, while beyond only a short distance looms up Mt.
Shavano, 14,239 feet; Chalk creek, our road and train make but a
small thread in the landscape compared with snch elevated sur-
roundings. -
Alpine—[Pop., 600; from Hortense,.six miles; Denver, 149 miles; eleva-
tion, 9,247 feet]—Is a mining town, hemmed in on two sides by lofty
mountains, several of which exceed in altitude 14,000 feet, and
upon which the "beautiful snow" can be found at all seasons.
Sampling and smelting works, a bank, several stores, hotels
and a weekly newspaper comprise the principal business of the
town.
The principal mines are the Murphy and Tilden, Living-
ston and Britenstine groups. The ore runs from $50 to $125 per ton.
St. Elmo—[Pop., 550; from Alp1ne, five miles; elevation, 10,041 feet].
Is a mining town of great promise. Everybody here is engaged
directly or indirectly in the mining business. The mines are all
true fissure veins, the ore running in galena, carrying gold, silver,
copper, iron and sulphide of silver. The town contains one smelt-
ing works, besides the usual number of stores, hotels, schools,
churches, newspapers, etc.
Capital can find here an opportunity for investment in legiti-
mate mining, second to none in the state. There are a great
many good mines in the vicinity, but we have not the space to
particularize.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West to Drew, 12 miles, and T1n Cup, three
miles, six times a week.
Leaving St. Elmo it is two miles to Romley, and three miles to
Haneoek—[Pop., 250; elevation, 11,005 feet].—Is situated at the head
of Chalk creek away up upon the eastern slope of the Sawache or
the main chain of the Rocky mountains, in a little valley sur-
rounded by towering snow-clad peaks on all sides, affording scenic
views of great magnificence. Mining is the chief or only industry,
and there are scores of valuable mines in the vicinity.



WEST FROM THE MOUTH OF
ALPINE TUNNEL.
See opposite page.
One of the many little side tours that can he made from Portland, Oregon, is
via O. R. & N. steamers up the Willamette river, through the locks at Oregon
City to Salem, the capital, and to Albany.


AI.PINE TUNNEL.
79
Continuing to climb three miles more, and we are completely
hemmed in by the lofty mountains with no possible way to get
out; just here is the entrance to the world-renowned
Alpine Tunnel—This remarkable piece of work, the result
of fine engineering skill and "Paddy's brawny arms," is 11,596
feet above the level of the sea—above "timber-line"— above where
trees and vegetation grow, or animal life is found; all is rock;
little rocks, big rocks and the "rock of ages." The air is pure and
thin; here at times the charming mountain zephyr plays seduc-
tive airs and anon the blizzard sports a round of pranks which
tend to "bull" the stock of the inferno. Snow lies in perpetual
banko on either side, but flowers in season, bright and fragrant,
fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors.
Somewhere along the way the seasons embrace; for though it be
summer in the valley it is not summer here—only as these flowery
symbols sweetly defy the frosty nip.
The tunnel, aside from its approaches, is 1,773 feet in length,
14 feet in width, and 17 feet in height, and with one exception, it
is the highest point in the world reached by steam-cars, and that
exception is in the South American Alps.
In passing through the tunnel you are transferred from the
Atlantic to the Pacific slope. The point of change is in the cen-
ter, and the impetus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine,
just before is groaning at its lift, now shouts in triumph, and the
engineer sets her heels for the decent. The view from the rear
end of the car while passing through the tunnel is quite an inter-
esting one. The light on entering is large and bright, the smooth
rails glisten like burnished silver in the sun's ray. Gradually the
light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ribbons of
silver, sparkling through the impenetrable darkness; gradually
these lessen; the light fades, and fades, and fades; the entrance is
apparently not larger than a pin's head, and then all light is gone
and darkness reigns supreme, and still we are not through, but
grope on, and marvel, and hope. Suddenly we emerge from the
tunnel, and a bright vision of beauty dawns upon us. The view
takes in a vast extent of country. The San Juan mountains are to
be seen 150 miles away to the southwest; Uncompahgre peak
stands forth in great prominence a little further west—overlooking
the cities of Ouray and Lake; the valley of the Gunnison is spread
out directly west with the city of Pitkin only ten miles away.
Turning now to the right that long black range is the Elk moun-
tains, and in the foreground, Mt. Gothic and Crested Butte.
Within the range of vision are many lovely valleys, large bodies
ot timber, towering mountains, numberless rivers and sparkling
streams, bustling cities, towns and mining camps, and dotted in
all directions with the settler's industries, and freckled with his
herds and flocks.
Close on the left and rising perpendicularly, are the mountains
along which our roadway has been blasted from the solid rock.
(See illustration.) From the high shelf and palisade thus formed
is an appalling depth, terminating away down in the valley into
which there is a gradual, sinuous descent, while the near surround-
ing natural wonders are indescribable.
In the western miningcamps you will often meet an illiterate millionaire in
greasy buckskin, and a college graduate in rags.


80
GUNNISON CITY AND VAUEY.
Descending with great caution, we pass the small stations of
Woodstock, Valley, M1dway and Quartz, and stop at
Pitklll—[Pop., 1,500; from St. Elmo, "21 miles; Denver, 174 miles; Gunni-
son City, 27 miles; elevation, 9,180 feet].—Named for Ex-Governor Pitkin;
situated on Quartz creek, in a little park gradually sloping to the
southward, between two high timber-covered mountain ranges,
which contain many rich and productive mines. The principal
occupations of the citizens are mining, lumbering and merchan-
dising. The ores carry both gold and silver. Pitkin is fully pro-
vided with stores and shops of all kinds, a bank, two quartz mills,
one sampling works, five saw-mills, good churches, schools and
one weekly newspaper, the Mining News. The Commercial is the
principal hotel. Surrounding Pitkin are a number of small min-
ing camps tributary to it for business. Game of many kinds is
found in the vicinity, and the finest trout can be caught from the
streams for the labor of throwing a fly.
Leaving Pitkin and following down Quartz creek, Oh1o C1ty,
a small mining camp of 200 people, is six miles from Pitkin, from
which it is eight miles to
Pilrlins—[From Pitkin, 15 miles; Gunnison City, 12 miles; elevation,
7,649 feet].—Is situated on Tomichi river, and consists of a hotel,
grocery, blacksmith shop, and Parlin, one of the oldest settlers in
this region of country. Stock-raising is the only industry in this
vicinity except cutting hay and raising potatoes.
Connect1ons - The D. & R. G railway and a mail hack south, to CnaN1M, ao miles
once a week.
CilllllliMOll—[Pop., 2,000; elevation, 7,649 feet; from Denver, 201 miles;
Salt Lake City, 445 miles]—Is the seat of Gunnison county, and has
become famous the world ever as the commercial center of an im-
mense mining region; and as more eloquent pens than our "Faber"
have sounded its praises throughout the land in well merited
terms, we have little more to add than a plain statement of its
present status, leaving out cold statistics and flights of fancy.
The valley of the Gunnison, according to our geologists, was
once a great lake the waters of which cut their way through the
rim of the great basin, thus forming the Grand canon of the Gun-
nison river, one most wonderful in all its features. The soil in the
valley is a light, sandy loam, and resting upon about 25 feet of
gravel containing small boulders, at the bottom of which water
of the best quality can be obtained. Surrounding this great valley, -
from 20 to 35 miles distant, are high mountain ranges where are
situated the rich mineral deposits, and from which flow the Gun-
nison, Taylor, Ohio, Willow, Sapinero, West Elk, Beaver, Tom-
ichi, and many other streams carrying an abundance of water,
making this valley one of the best watered in the state. All these
streams in their descent from the snow-clad mountains tend to
one central point near the middle of the valley, where is located
Gunnison City, which, from a geographical stand, is destined to
be always the distributing point for the surrounding country.
Along many of these streams vegetables are grown successfully,
and wild grasses afford an abundance of hay that finds a ready
market in the mining regions at good prices. On all the
hills and in the mountains, the stock-raisers find an abundance of
of the richest feed for their cattle and sheep, of which the country
is well supplied.


BALDWIN COAL MINES.
81
The altitude of Gunnison City is 2,456 feet higher than Denver,
and 2,520 feet lower than Leadville. The city is located on a neck
of land two miles in width, lying between the Gunnison river on
the north and Tomichi creek on the south, about two miles above
the junction of the two streams. The streets are laid out 100 feet
in width, beside which streams of pure water are conducted and
many shade trees planted, that in time will add materially to the
beauty as well as the health of the city.
For the benefit of those who might desire to stop over in Gun-
nison, the La Veta house is the largest, finest and most complete
hotel in Colorado, built of brick and stone, and cost upwards of
$250,000.
Many of the merchants of Gunnison City are of the most sub-
stantial class, have large buildings of stone and brick, and carry
very large stocks of merchandise of all kinds. Besides the mer-
cantile class the city has two banks, an opera house, seating 500,
a fine court building, several churches, three schools, three plan-
ing mills, several saw-mills, a foundry and machine shop, smelting
works, ore-sampling works, half dozen hotels, chief of which are
the La Veta, Palisades and Dawson; two newspapers, the Review-
Press and the News-Democrat, together with the railroad round-
houses and machine shops, which add materially to the business
of the city. Besides the great mineral wealth in gold, silver and
precious metals tributary to Gunnison City, are her coal mines,
which are quite numerous. At Carbon mountain, 18 miles north,
via Ohio creek, are large deposits of bituminous coal, which are
mined and used in the city, and also in the adjoining towns.
Anthracite coal is also found in several localities that is said to
equal the coal of Pennsylvania.
Then there are immense deposits of iron ore and quarries of
marble, granite and sandstone.
Timber is also abundant in the surrounding mountains, as well
as game, both large and small, of all kinds; and trout—well, the
Gunnison country is the trouts' home. Any ordinary tenderfoot
can catch them. -
Connect1ons—The D. & R. G. railroad's Crested Butte branch, 28 miles to Crested
Butte, where are located extensive quartz and placer mines; also iron and coal and coke
ovens.
The South Park branch of the Union Pacific runs north from
Gunnison City up Ohio creek through a settled country where
wheat, oats, hay and potatoes are the principal crops raised, seven
miles to Teachout, three miles to H1nkles, three miles to Cas-
tleton, and three miles more to
Baldwin—[18 miles from Gunnison city].—Here are extensive de-
posits of coal, owned by the railroad company, who use large quan-
tities and ship more.
From Baldwin a mail hack runs northwest to Mt. Carbon, six
miles, and thence to Irw1n, five and a half miles, six times a
week.
Having concluded the Gunnison tour we return to Denver.


82
SIDE TOUR NO. 3—BOREAS.
Side Tour IVo. 3 —From Denver to Breckenr1dge,
Leadv1lle, Red Cuff, Glenwood Spr1ngs to Aspen.
Leaving Denver, as in tour No. 2, we follow the same route to
Como, 88 miles from Denver.
From Como our route is to the northwest up Tarryall creek,
through the old placers so famous in 1860, and curving around on
a spur of the mountains, climbing rapidly, we reach a point where
the view of the South Park, Como, Jefferson, Kenosha, Pike's
peak and the front range of mountains is most grand, covering a
great extent of country, plains, valleys and a bewildering wreck
of mountains—worth a long journey to behold
Boreas—[Elevation,u,47ofeet].—Is situated on the summit of
Breckenridge pass, ten miles from Como, on the "snowy range,"
the "backbone" of the continent. Should a bucket full of
"Adam's ale" be emptied on the summit on this ridge, a short dis-
tance from the station, it would separate, one portion finding its
way to the Gulf of Mexico, and the other to the Gulf of California.
There is little use for steam in descending the mountains for
the next 12 miles to Breckenridge, except to manage the brakes, as
we drop away in that distance, 1,946 feet, over 162 feet to the
mile.
The route down the mountain is most tortuous; surprises come
thick and fast. Our train whirls into deep and dismal gorges sur-
rounded by firs and pines, ten-score feet in height, another whirl,
and we are on the point of a rocky promontory which rises sheer
500 feet above a parallel track below; another whirl, a
grand detour, and we are running back upon that parallel track;
again we round a headland, the track is not there, it has dodged
away up a long ravine only to double back upon itself, and so it
goes. Four parallel tracks are to be seen at different times and
places, rising one above the other on the face of pine-clad moun-
tains, rugged in the extreme.
At points on this wild zigzag run down and around the moun-
tain spurs, the scenic views are most marvelous. Mts. Fletcher,
Quandary, Buckskin and many other towering peaks are in view
to the west and southwest, while to the north the view of Mts.
Gray and Torrey and Powell are very fine. In rounding one of the
many bold headlands, the valley of the Blue river is suddenly
brought to view, together with the city of Breckenridge, and
thousands of acres of old and new placer mines. (See illustration
on next page.)
During the season when work can be done, in nearly every
ravine and gulch along the line of the road down the mountains
where water can be stored for use, can be seen miners with their
various devices washing the gravel and gathering the golden
scales and nuggets for which this region of country is noted.
Probably there is not another stretch of railroad in the world
that runs over more wealth in gold than the line from Como to
Breckenridge.
Breekenridge—[Pop., 2,000; from Como, 22 miles; Denver, no miles;
elevation, 9,524 feet],—The seat of Summit county, situated on the
Blue river, on the western slope of the Rocky mountains, and is
strictly a mining towu.


84 KEYSTONE BRANCH—ROBINSON.
In 1863-4 the placers were abandoned and supposed to have been
worked out. The miners at that time knew nothing about hydraulic
mining or quartz lodes and the old camps were deserted.
From the time of the rich carbonate discoveries at Leadville,
of 1878-9, dates a new era in the mining industry in Colorado. It
filled the whole mountain region of the state with prospectors and
the hnnt for rich quartz lodes and deposits commenced, and with
what success the cities of Breckenridge, Silverton, Ouray, Red
Mountain and many others stand forth as monuments—endorsed
by milions in gold, silver, copper and lead added to the wealth of
the country.
Breckenridge has all the requisite trade, religious and educa-
tional facilities and the latest improvements and luxuries of civili-
zation. The Denver is the principal hotel, and the Journal and
the Leader are newspapers published here.
There are several smelters, mills and sampling-works near the
town; also extensive operations in hydraulic placer mining.
Breckenridge is surrounded by small mining towns and camps,
whsre are located mills and extensive placer mining operations.
Connect1ons—Mail hack:" East to Lincoln, four miles, six times a week.
From Breckenridge our direction is northward, down the val-
ley of the Blue river, past mills, canals and placer mining On both
sides. Sixteen njiles brings our train to D1ckey. Here the Key-
stone Branch continues down to D1llon, three miles at the
junction of the Blue and Snake rivers, where it turns up the Snake
eastward to KEYSTONE, four miles, at the end of the track.
Connect1ons—At Dillon, "Bunco" railway, and mail hack down the Blue
r1ver northwest to Colorow, 36 miles; Kremml1ng, ten miles; thence east to
Troublesome, seven miles, and Hot Sulphur Spr1ngs (Middle Park), 12 miles,
once a week. B
Connections are made at Kremmling with stages for the north
and west.
At Keystone, mail hack east to the mining towns of Monte-
zuma, ten miles; Ch1huahua, three miles, six times a week;
fare, $1.50 and $2.
Leaving Dickey, our road curves westward and then to the south
into, aud follows up Ten M1le Canon (parallel with the track of
the "Bunco" road, which extends from Leadville to Dillon),
passing Fr1sco and Wheeler, both small mining towns, and
reach KOKOMO—[Pop., 500; elevation, 10,642 feet]—in 17 miles.
Robinson—[Pop. 500].—Is one mile beyond Kokomo, both of
which are strictly mining towns. They are situated on the eastern
slope of Sheep mountain, with the valley of Ten Mile creek to the
eastward, which is a half to a mile wide, and covered with a heavy
growth of wild grasses. The scenery is grand. To the east and
south rise mountains to great heights; the most prominent peak is
Mt. Fletcher, 14,265 feet above sea level. In the background
Sheep mountain rises 12,648 feet; to the north, Gray's peak. Game
of many kinds can be found in easy distance, such as deer, elk,
bear, grouse, quail, hare, rabbits, etc.
The towns are well supplied with stores, shops of all kinds and
many of the modern improvements of the times. There are three
smelting works, one the la.gest in the mountains. The chief
hotels are the Robinson at that town, and the Western at
Kokomo.


FREMONT'S PASS—LEADVILLE.
85
The quartz mines in the vicinity are counted up in the thous-
ands, are all true fissure veins, and many very rich in carbonates,
galena and sulphurites, averaging f 180, and selected ore $800 per
ton. The principal mines in the vicinity of Robinson and Ko-
komo are the Robinson, Wheel of Fortune, Snowbank, Forest
Combination, Little Chicago, Hoodoo —lead ores—which run from
$20 to $120 per ton. The Crown Point and Ruby—silver—$1,200
per ton. At Robinson is located one of the largest smelters in
the mountains. Placer claims are also being worked in the vicin-
ity, with more or less profit.
Remember Thia!—From a point to the westward of Robin-
son, reached in an hour's walk, a view can be had surpassing all
words of description.
We have shown that the scenery on this tour is grand and of
great diversity, but in our opinion, the crowning attraction in all
Colorado can best be seen from this point—to the northwest—the
Mount of Holy Cross—Its summit is 14,176 feet above the
level of the sea, and presents the appearance of a beautiful
cross. No tourist or person visiting Colorado from any part of the
world, or any person possessing a soul to appreciate the sublime
and beautiful in nature, should fail to visit and pay their respects
to this grand old mountain and its immense great white cross
firmly implanted amid the eternal rocks by the hand of the Great
Maker, as it were, a perpetual symbol of purity, hope and
redemption.
From this same point many of the highest peaks in Colorado
can be distinctly seen. To the eastward, Mts. Fletcher, Quandary
and Buckskin; to the north, Gray and Torrey; to the southwest,
Mts. Flbert, Massive, LaPlatte, Harvard and Yale; to the west, the
Homestake and many others, including Aspen mountain.
From Robinson it is three miles to Cl1max, a small station on
the summit of Fremont's Pass; altitude, 11,292 feet, the second
in height on this line.
Soon after leaving the summit, close to the eastward Buckskin
mountain rises sheer 2,904 feet above our head, and many lesser
peaks stand forth, body guards, as it were, in bold array.
Continuing our journey, winding in, out and around the moun-
tain fingers thrust out towards a lovely little valley that we are
overlooking on the right, 14 miles and the '' carbonate camp,''
Leadville, is reached.
L-CJMlVilli'—[Pop., n,500; from Denver, 151 miles; elevation, 1o,185 feet]
Is the seat of Lake county, and is one of those extraordinary pro-
ductions of a mining country—one of those places that from a lone
cabin becomes a village in a night, a town in a week, a city in a
month, and a "booming" metropolis the first year, with number-
less old prospectors, miners, capitalists, bullwhackers, stages, pil-
grims, railroads, gamblers, and all classes of humanity, directing
their course to reach the new El Dorado with all possible despatch.
Such was Leadville during the first year of its existence. Lead-
ville was then one of the most cosmopolitan cities; there met and
jostled people from every land and clime; the rich and the poor,
the miser and the spendthrift, the scholar and the fool, the
preacher and the bawd, the morose and the jolly, and the look of
all seemed to say, "we are here for dollars, not for health."


86 COLORADO MIDLAND R. R.
Following this state of things Leadville had its ups and downs,
caused by mining sharks, but at this time there is no city better
governed or more permanently prosperous.
Commercially and in population Leadville ranks third in the
state. The city has many fine brick business blocks, water works,
stores and shops in great variety, eight smelting and reduction
works, four foundries and machine shops, a score of hotels (chief
of which are the Hotel Kitchen, Grand Pacific and Grand),
together with churches, schools, secret orders, electric light, tele-
phone, etc., and three daily and weekly papers, the Herald-Dem-
ocrat, Leadville Chronicle and Carbonate Chronicle. Of mining
companies! Well, really, there are hardly enough figures to
enumerate them or the mines in the vicinity. The mining loca-
tions near the city number 30,000, and the out-put of ore is about
1,500 tons per day; but the production is from only about 50.
The Leadville Trotting and Running Association has a half-
mile track four miles west, with good buildings and is well fenced.
The court house and post office buildings are fine structures,
and would do credit to any city; then there are a great number of
fine private residences. Of lumber yards there are ten, some of
which do an immense business, each of which represents from one
to three saw-mills in the county, besides buying largely in Chicago.
The city is surrounded by a number of mining camps which are
tributary for business, and add materially to its prosperity.
The carbonate deposits about Leadville are enormous, extend-
ing over a vast area, said to be 60 miles in length from north to
south by 10 miles wide, yielding in silver and lead from $30 to
$2,000 per ton.
Leadville is situated on a gradual slope of the Mosquito range
facing westward, and is six miles from the eastern base of the
Saguache range, in which Mt. Massive is the central figure; alti-
tude, 14,298 feet. At the base of this range are the pretty Ever-
green lakes and several noted soda springs.
Cal1forn1a Gulch, of 1860-fame, comes down from the east-
ern range of mountains on the south side of the city, along which
are situated a number of smelting works and manufactories.
This "gulch " was one of the most noted in Colorado in 1859-
62, during which years the placers yielded nearly $5,000,000, after
which they were abandoned. Since the discoveries of carbonates,
the old camp near the head of the "diggings" was christened
Leadville. Companies have recently been organized, these old
claims re-located, and preparations are perfecting to work over the
ground by hydraulic process, but the scarcity of water is a great
drawback.
Leaving Leadville, we enter the attractive cars on the new
broad gauge, Colorado Midland Railway, and start directly for the
western mountains, climbing up and up, around the sides of Mt.
Massive, 'mid the wildest of all wild and varied Alpine scenery
in Colorado.
The engineer who first advanced the idea of seeking a route
for this elegant train over the rugged Saguache mountains was
indeed a bold projector, and no less enterprising were the pro-
moters who furnished the millions of money to carry the work
forward to a successful issue.


ASPEN—COLORADO.
87
While viewing the magnificent and varied scenery from the
car window for over 100 miles, a stranger to the great mineral
wealth hidden and being daily developed in these grand old
mountains, might well wonder what necessity and incentive
capitalists could possibly have in "squandering money" on so
costly an undertaking. We will see!
For full 25 miles our train continues its tortuous climb along
the side of the rocky, jaggy and timbered mountain, alternately
rounding its projecting spurs and heading off its deep and dismal
gorges 'mid towering trees and everlasting snow until the summit
is reached and we are standing upon the Continental Divide—
from which flow the waters to the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf of
California.
From this great bald mountain, above timber line, where snow
and ice ever rests, the scenic views are almost limitless, very
beautiful, and as we roll along, of infinite variety.
Descending the western slope, passing a number of small min-
ing camps, our train stops for a moment at Aspen Junction, 63
miles from Leadville, on Roaring Fork river, up which it turns,
reaching, in 19 miles, the famous mining town of
Aspen—[Pop., 5,500; from Leadville, no miles; elevation, 7,775 feet].
Is the seat of Pitkin county, situated on the northern slope of Aspen
mountain, on the south side of Roaring Fork river near the junc-
tion of Hunter, Castle and Maroon creeks. The old town of Roar-
ing Fork is one mile distant on the opposite side of the river.
The city contains two banks, a sampling and two smelting
works, a number of stone and brick business blocks, stores of all
kinds, several hotels (chief of which is the Clarendon), four news-
papers—the Times, Democrat and Chronicle, daily, and the Sun,
weekly; a theater, three saw-mills, electric light and telephone;
good schools and churches, etc.
Here are located some of the great mines of the state, and Aspen
is considered one of the most prosperous and rich of the mining
towns in Colorado. The hills surrounding the town are filled with
veins of silver. The ore from many of them runs to $1,800 per
ton. There are also placer mines near the town that are rich, and
are being worked with much profit. The bullion yield for 1889
exceeded $8,000,000.
The developments of the Pitkin county mines up to this time
have been of the most satisfactory character, showing that the rich
ore-bodies are not confined to the group of mines which have
made Aspen mountain famous in all mining circles. It is posi-
tively asserted, and apparently thoroughly demonstrated, that a
belt of country 15 miles in width, extending from the Mt. of Holy
Cross, in Eagle county, southwest through Aspen to Ashcroft and
Sandy's gulch, gives a great contact belt 30 miles in length of
true fissure veins, besides the various rich mining districts of Con-
nundrum, Sandy, Maroon, Lincoln and Castle creeks—enough
mineral to sustain a wonderful out-put until the coming of the
millennium.
For years the great cry of the people at Aspen was for a rail-
road. They now have one first-class road, the Colorado Midland,
and should be happy. Whether they are or not, they are ship-
ping an immense amount of ore to the smelting works east, be-
sides what can be smelted at home. Aspen is improving rapidly
without "boom," and bids fair to make the most important camp
in the state in population and wealth.


88
GLENWOOD SPRINGS.
In the vicinity of Aspen are quarries of beautiful red sandstone,
which is largely used for building and flagging purposes.
Along the river and creeks near and tributary, are some good
ranches, where oats, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables are
grown to perfection and find ready sale at prices that would astour
ish a New England farmer. >
Elk, deer, bear and many other kinds of furred and feathered
game are abundant in the near mountains, and the trout snap at
the bait in every little stream.
Aspen is 28 miles due west from Leadville, "as the bird would
fly," 40 miles by trail, and by rail (the way we came), 101 miles.
Leaving Aspen, our course is now down the Roaring Fork,
along which are numerous "truck gardeners" who are generally
very successful with their seeds, finding a ready market at the
mines for all they can raise, and at good prices. A run of 42 miles
brings us to
GlenWOOd Springs—[Pop., 1,500; from Leadville, 141 miles; ele-
vation, 5,200 feet]—Is the seat of Garfield county, just below the
canon of the Grand, situated in a little park at the junction of
the Roaring Fork and the Grand rivers.
It is a place of great promise, principally on account of the
springs for which it has become noted. Some of the buildings are
of stone and brick, but the greater number are of wood. Stores
and shops of all kinds are here; also water works, electric light,
telephone, etc., banks, churches, schools and hotels, chief of which
are the Hotel Glenwood and St. James. The News, Chief and
Echo are three daily papers published here.
The land about the city is rather limited, but in places along
the Grand and Roaring Fork are many thousand acres of good
agricultural lauds, some of which are under cultivation producing
good crops of oats, potatoes and vegetables; grass in all the valleys,
and along the streams is vigorous and abundant, producing a large
amount of hay. Stock-raising is also an important occupation of
the settlers in this region, but the chief attraction, and the one on
which for its future growth the place must depend is its wonder-
ful spr1ngs. The springs are numerous on both sides of. the
Grand, and are of undoubted medicinal character. It is said all
diseases of the blood, rheumatism and skin diseases are wonder-
fully relieved and often cured. Some of these springs are very
salt and too hot to bathe in. In one place where the waters run
through a cave about 20 feet, a natural Turkish bath is afforded,
where planks are laid to walk upon, and bathers can disport them-
selves on the rocks.
The hot, salt and sulphur springs are on the north side of the
Grand river reached by a bridge, and are very numerous; some
are close down beside the river, others are from 10 to 20 feet higher,
with a great amount of crystallization all about them, the deposits
of ages forming great basins from which the springs flow. Large
and commodious buildings are provided at these springs for the
accommodation of bathers. The main structure is 275 by 40 feet,
and fitted up with porcelain tubs of the most approved kind; and
the rheumatic, asthmatic, catarrhal and lung sufferers, without
regard to age, sex, race, color or previous condition of servitude,
do congregate here in large numbers.
Coal—Both bituminous and anthracite, is abundant in the re-
gion surrounding Glenwood, and is another great source of wealth.


BOULDER—COLORADO.
89
Side Tour So. 4—From Denver to Boulder, Boulder
Canon, Longmont, Estes Park and Fort Coll1ns to Greeley.
Each of the four cities above named are reached by two separate
branches of the Union Pacific railway. Leaving Denver at 7:55 a. m.,
via the Marshall & Boulder (narrow gauge). We take the route
described in S1de Tour No. 1 to Argo Junct1on, three miles from
Denver, thence running north, crossing Clear creek and a broad
- expanse of rolling prairie land well settled and cultivated, reach
Boulder at 9:22 a. m.
BOUldei*—[Pop., 4,500; from Denver, 30 miles, via Argo Junction, and
47 miles, via Brighton; elevation, 5,335 feet].—The seat of Boulder county,
situated at the entrance to the mountains, via Boulder canon, on
Boulder river.
Gold and silver mines in the mountains, great coal mines just
south of the city, iron deposits, stone and lime quarries, agri-
culture, horticulture and stock-raising are the chief occupations
of the citizens. Merchandising and all the usual occupations
of an enterprising city thrive here, as well as the churches and
schools.
Three ore-sampling works, one smelting furnace, one iron fur-
nace, two flouring-mills, one foundry and machine shop, and a
score of smaller manufactories are located here. The American
and the Brainard are the principal hotels. The newspapers are
Herald, daily and weekly; the News and Banner, weekly, and
the Sentinel, weekly.


UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO.
91
The Sunset branch runs through a section devoted exclusively
to mining and lumbering, and affords scenic views well worth a
visit by the tourist.
Boulder Canon—Has some magnificent scenery, besides be-
ing the outlet to the valley for some of the richest mines in the
state. In the drainage of this canon are located the Gold Hill,
Sugar Loaf, Caribou, Pennsylvania, Snowy Range, Gold Lake,
Ward, Central and other rich mining districts, containing numer-
ous stamp-mills and reduction works, which yield a wealth of
precious metals daily. The scenery of this canon is noticeably
wild and romantic, even in a country where nature has been so
productive of surprising natural wonders. On either side rise the
lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, their sides covered
with verdure, save in spots where the rocks stand forth in naked
boldness. Through the canon rushes a noisy and turbulent
stream, serving to enhance the attractions and break the solitude.
Through its whole extent, a distance of 15 miles, the points of
interest vie with each other in attracting the attention of the
beholder.
Three miles up the caiion, and nearly encircled by it, rises the
"Dome," a solitary and majestic mass of granite, 500 feet in height.
Eight miles up is "Eagle Rock;" 10 miles, the " Falls," on the
North fork, near its junction with Middle Boulder, whence they
are reached by trail along the mountain side, a few hundred yards
distant.
As the principal canon views are not on the line of the railroad,
it will be necessary for visitors to secure a carriage and driver at
Boulder. Livery teams can be had to make a trip to the "Falls,"
ten miles and back, for $5, passing the most attractive feature of
the canon.
The Un1vers1ty of Colorado—a noble institution, has a
beautiful site upon the high grounds on the south side of Boulder
river overlooking the city. The design of this school is to pre-
pare teachers for the work of conducting the schools of the state,
especially in the branches taught in the common schools. It is
claimed that the climate at Boulder is all that could be desired—
neither excessively warm in summer nor too cold in winter, anck
seems particularly favorable to the rapid development of the intel-
lectual faculties.
The Colorado Central—Branch of the Union Pacfi'c reaches
Boulder via Arvada and Golden, winding around the Table
mountains and foot-hills; distance, 36 miles.
The Boulder Valley—Another branch of the Union Pacific
reaches Boulder via Br1ghton (on the main line 18 miles north
from Denver), ERIE and Canf1eld; distance, 46 miles.
Leaving Boulder our route turns to the northeast over the broad
prairies.
Loilgmont—[Pop., 3,000; from Boulder, ten miles; Denver, 57 miles;
elevation, 4,935 feet].—One of the most important towns in Boulder
county, is situated on the high prairie, sloping to the southward,
about half a mile north of the St. Vrain river, the waters of which
are taken out seven miles west of the town and conducted in
ditches over the high lands on each side of the river, producing
large crops of wheat, barley, oats, corn and other cereals. Wheat


92
ESTES PARK—LONG'S PEAK.
in large quantities is shipped from here, besides what is ground in
three mills near. Wheat often yields 30 bushels to the acre; oats, 50
bushels.
Brick is largely used in building, and many of the private resi-
dences and some business blocks are models in size and finish.
The Post and the Ledger are weekly papers, and Zweck and the
Occidental are the two leading hotels.
The streets of Longmont are broad, laid out at right angles and
ornamented with shade trees of various kinds, and well irrigated,
as are most of the gardens and residence grounds.
Connect1ons—By rail: Denver, Utah & Pacific, "Burlington" system;
from Denver, 33 miles; to Lyons, northwest, 11 miles.
Turning north from Longmont, 11 miles, is BERThoud, a little
station on Little Thompson creek, from which it is six miles to
LiOVCllilld—-[Pop., 650; from Denver, 74 miles; elevation, 4,974].
Is situated on Big Thompson river.
Connect1ons—By rail: Buckhorn branch, northwest to Ark1ns, seven
and a half miles; also, mail hack, west to P1newood, 19 miles; Estes Park,
13 miles; thence to Mora1ne, five miles. Total to Estes Park, 32 miles, six
times a week in summer and three times in winter.
Since leaving Boalder, we have passed over a succession of roll-
ing prairie ridges, small mountain streams and irrigating canals,
through a rich farming country where the principal industries are
agriculture, horticulture and stock-raising. Most of these ridges
or divides are sufficiently low to enable the ranchmen to conduct
the water from near the mountains in canals all over the land, and
as the soil is naturally rich, the result is bounteous crops.
Estes Park—[Elevation, 6,810 feet].—Is one of the most delight-
ful summer resorts in Colorado, but the stage ride from Loveland,
32 miles, deters many from visiting it. The park or valley is ten
miles north of Long's peak, about six miles long by four and a
half miles wide, hemmed in on all sides by towering mountains.
The tall spruce and pine trees in the park grow sufficiently near
each other to afford a beautiful and cooling shade in the hottest
days of the summer. This is one of those places seldom found in
the mountains, where all the greatest attractions can be reached
and enjoyed within easy reach from good hotel accommodations.
The hunting and trout fishing are par excellence. As for scen-
ery ! there is no adequate language to describe it. From the summit
of Long's Peak [altitude 14,270] the extent of vision would cover
over 400 square miles, taking in every prominent peak in the San
Juan, Sangre de Cristo, Sawache, Wind river, Uintah, and Rocky
mountain ranges; but the ascent is difficult at best and sometimes
dangerous, and should not be attempted except with ample outfit
and an experienced guide.
From points within easy reach of the hotel, views can be had
of the plains and valleys to the eastward, including scores of
cities, towns and villages, bounded only by the horizon.
Fort CollillS—[Pop., 2,500; from Denver,SS miles; elevation, 4,972 feet].
Is the seat of Larimer county, situated in the valley of the"
Cache-a-la Poudre, in the midst of great wealth in agriculture,
horticulture, stock-raising, flagging stone, water-power, mills and
manufactories.


BIRDS SING GOOD-BYE TO COLORADO. 93
The county buildings, business blocks, opera house, banks,
churches and school buildings and many private residences do
credit to the taste and enterprise of the citizens. The State Agri-
cultural College is located here.
The Tedmond and Commercial are the principal hotels. The
newspapers are the Courier, daily and weekly, and the Express,
weekly.
Here and on this tour can be seen the effect of irrigation; with-
out water no crops can be raised.
An extensive system of irrigating canals and ditches conducts
the water from the river over all the lands in the neighborhood and
the most bountiful crops are raised therefrom. In summer picnic
parties enjoy the cooling groves of cotton woods along the river
banks, and hunters and fishermen are afforded rare sport with the
abundance and variety of game to be found in the mountains and
streams within a day's "round-up."
Since leaving Boulder our route has skirted the mountains
affording scenic views of rare beauty, but here at Collins the view
of the mountains and Long's peak, directly west, is very grand.
What the city of Naples is to Mt. Vesuvius, Fort Collins is to
Long's peak.
Connect1ons—By rail: The Fort Collins and Stout branch west to La-
Porte, situated on the Cache-a-la Poudre river at the base of the mountains,
three miles; south to Stout, 11 miles, where are located extensive quarries of
stone, large quantities of which are shipped to Denver and to the east—Missouri
river cities. Also, mail hack northwest to La Porte, four miles; L1vermore,
16J4 miles; thence southwest to Adams, eight miles; thence west, to Elk-
horn, seven miles, and Manhattan, nine miles, six times a week; Fort Col-
lins can be reached via Greeley on a branch of the Union Pacific.
From Fort Collins, our road follows down the beautiful valley
of the Cache-a-la Poudre, on the south side, through one of the
most productive portions of the state to the town of Greeley, a
beautiful place, situated on the Denver Pac1f1c branch of the
Union Pacific railway, between Denver and Cheyenne — of which
more hereafter.
nOOD-E17E, COLORADO
'"V;U1


PARKERS—ELIZABETH—ELBERT. 95
creek are very productive when irrigated; in fact, that would be
the case with all the lands in this whole region could sufficient
water be had for irrigating them.
About six miles after leaving Melvin our train crosses to the
east side of Cherry creek, and leaving it to the right, commences
to climb the high, rolling prairies, which are wholly devoted to
grazing purposes.
Parkers—[From Melvin, eight miles; elevation, 6,020 feet.]—Is a
small station, accommodating perhaps 100 people in the
vicinity. It is near the foot of a heavy grade, up which will toil
our "iron horse," gaining over 100 feet in altitude for the next
eight miles, until we reach
Hill Top—[From Parkers, eight miles; Denver, 31 miles; eleva-
tion of the summit, 6,842 feet.]—This station is important only as
it affords, from its high elevation, extended and unobscured views
of a vast extent of country.
The great Rocky Mountain range, for nearly 200 miles in
extent from north to south, stands out to view from this point as
though only a few miles away, when, in fact, its base at the nearest
point is fully forty and its summit over 100 miles distant. Long's
Peak is that highest peak far to the northward, Gray's Peak is due
west, and Pike's Peak to the southwest, while far, far away to the
southward are the Spanish Peaks, near which we will be in about
five hours, as they are 120 miles away.
From Parkers to Hill Top, and for the next 30 miles the
country is very broken, with scattering pines around the rocky
crags and knolls, with here and there a little park, a little valley,
a little trickling stream and a little patch of land cultivated a9
little as possible. Cattle, sheep and horses range the whole
country at will. Game, such as deer and antelope, once abundant,
are now seldom seen.
Leaving the summit, we find a down grade and a crooked
road-bed while descending to the valley of Running creek, where
we meet—face to face—
Elizabeth—[Pop. 500; from Hill Top, seven miles; Denver, 39 mile*;
elevation, 6,604 feet.]—Stock-raising is the chief industry, with lumber-
ing for second place, as there is quite a belt of timber to the east-
ward tributary to this station for market.
Connect1ons—Mail hack daily, except Sunday, to K1owa, eight miles;
fare 50 cents.
Following up Running creek, and winding around among the
rough and broken country, we pass the side-track of Cameron
[elevation, 7,022 feet] and descend into the valley of Kiowa creek
to -
Elbert—[Pop. 300; from Elizabeth, 13 miles; Denver, 48 miles; elevation,
6,870 feet.]—The seat of Elbert county, on Kiowa creek, along down
which are a few farms; but the chief industry is stock-raising.
When the settlers along this stream construct a system of storage
reservoirs, and save the surplus water from the winter snow and
spring rains, they will be enabled to irrigate several hundred
thousand acres of the best farming land in the State, extending


96 EASTON—FALCON—MANITOU JUNCTION.
the length of the stream to "Fremont's orchard." The same
could be said of Running creek, and the cost would be trifling
compared with the advance of property along the route of the
canals and annual crops produced by irrigation.
Continuing to ascend, in six miles we pass the side track of S1d-
ney [elevation, 7,190 feet], and soon reach Easton Summ1t
[elevation, 7,426 feet], the highest point on the entire line.
Easton—- [Pop., 250; from the Summit, two miles; Elbert, 12 miles; eleva-
tion, 7,380 feet.]—Situated just over on the southern slope of the
"divide" which separates the waters flowing northward to the
Platte river and southward to the Arkansas. The site of the
town commands a most extended view to southeast, south and
westward. The landscape is one broad, rolling prairie, dotted here
and there by the homes of the settlers and the1r herds and flocks,
while in the far distance rises the great Rocky mountain chain,
snow-capped from October to June.
Almost any day in summer the spectacle of a "Storm in the
Rockies" can be viewed from this vicinity. The black and threat-
ening clouds will rise, as though by magic, from behind some
towering peak, and with its thunder roar and lightning flash
sweep around the gray old crags for a few moments with a delug-
ing and terrific force, then pass away over the prairie in fleecy
folds. At times, for many hours, these storms w1ll appear along
the "range," separated by long distances; occasionally they reach
out upon the plains, are very wet and accompanied by hail, but
are of short duration. Should one get caught out in one of these
storms with his "best girl " his thoughts would naturally revert
to "home and heaven."
Faleon—[Pop., 200; from Easton, 10 miles; elevation, 7,000 feet.]—Sit-
uated on the broad prairie, at the junction of the Chicago & Rock
Island Railroad branch from Kansas City to Colorado Springs.
Thesettlers in the vicinity are mostly stock raisers; yet there are a
few who try to raise crops without irrigation, but the general re-
sults are not conducive to morality; however, the Falcon Herald,
published weekly at this place, can be depended upon to guide
these people for their general good.
When we made our first pilgrimage across these lands, in July,
1860, they were covered by immense numbers of antelope, some
deer, a few buffaloes, many coyotes, and numerous roving
bands of Indians. Now, 1890, nary Indian, buffalo, or deer are to be
seen, and very seldom an antelope or wolf. It's a notable fact
when the Indian goes all the large game goes, or they vanish on
the march of the white man.
Leaving Falcon, our course is more to the westward, up a heavy
grade, rising 760 feet in four miles, to B1erstadt, where the
famous painter of that name once stood to sketch his most ad-
mirable painting of Pike's Peak. Four miles further of down
grade and we stop at
ManitOU Junetion—[From Falcon, eight miles; Denver, 82 miles,
Colorado Springs, nine miles; elevation, 6,492 feet.]—At this Station the
regular through train for the gulf turns to the southward, and all
passengers for Colorado Springs, Colorado City, Manitou and
Pike's Peak will need to " change cars," taking the waiting train
standing to the right of the depot.
Come along, let us take a run over this branch. Our course is
westward, directly for the mountains. The country is a rolling
prairie, well grassed and well stocked with horses, cattle and
sheep that range here and in the adjoining hills to the northward
the year around, without other feed or special care.
Colorado Springs—[Pop., 12,000;elevation, 5,992 feet; from Denver,
91 miles; Pueblo, 45 miles; Manitou, five and a half miles.]—Seat of El Paso
county. This city was laid out in July, 1871, and settled by the


Colorado
TEHB8rncincRT. -)$**
J TdaFp
"HE growth of Colorado and the Northwest in popular
favor as a resort during the summer months has
been marvelous. Assurance is felt that here at
least there is immunity from the oppressive heat.
Not only this, but tourists are in the midst of the grandest
scenery on the Western Continent, and, in fact, the equal
of any to be found elsewhere on the face of the globe.
The chief glory of this region is that the visitor is not
confined to any particular neck of woods. He may travel
as much as he pleases, but wherever he goes there is some
new charm, some new grandeur to surprise and delight.
One season nor a dozen do not exhaust the wonders.
Colorado is a whole state of resorts and points of interest.
Its marvels are exhaustless. Montana, aside from the
Yellowstone Park, has enough of grandeur, but with it, it
is matchless. It is a museum of monstrous nature. The
climate of Utah and Idaho, with their mountains and sunny
valleys, has recently brought this region into prominence
as a health zone, and for this purpose it is as much sought
after as for the splendors of its scenery and immunity from
heat.
The Texas & Pacific is the most advantageous route to
take to reach this region from the Southeast. It passes
through the sugar plantations of Louisiana, the rich cotton
and grain belt of Northern Texas, which is unsurpassed in
productiveness, and is the direct line to the Northwest
resort region, connecting at Fort Worth with the Fort
Worth & Denver City division of the Union Pacific Rail-
way, making the shortest possible route from all points in
the Southeast to Colorado, Montana, Utah, Idaho and
Wyoming.
For further information as to rates and routes, call
on or address
J. H. WORD, Traveling Passenger Agent, Atlanta, Ga.
A. S. GRAHAM, Passenger and Ticket Agent, 47 St. Charles St., New Orleans.
GASTON MESLIER,
General Passenger and Ticket Agent. Dallas, Tex.


No. 3.

SHOSHONE FALLS SNAKE RIYSR.
See Page 206.



See Page 248.


THE REED HOTEU, 0Sden, IM-
One of
the most
elegant
and
finely
appointed
HOTELS
in the
western
country.
*
HEADQUARTERS FOR TOURISTS.

Grand
dining
room
on the
top floor.
elefator,
electric
bells,
and
rooms
en suite.
McMILLEN & DEMING HOTEL CO., Proprietors.
THE PORTLAND,
PORTLAND, 0RE60N.

CHAS. E. LELAND, Mg'r.
A new Hotel, contain-
ing all modern improve-
ments; every room lighted
by electricity; light and
airy; heated by steam;
open fire-places, bath
en suite, and on every
floor, elevators.
GEM OF THE PACIFIC COAST.
alrsr H crysE?
FIRST-CLASS EUROPEAN
HOTEL,
in connection with which will be two of the finest Restaurants in the
city, open from 6 a. m. until 12 p. m., and as my aim shall be to cater to
the wants of the very best trade, the table and cuisine will be the very
best the market affords, with a skilled chef and a corps of attentive
waiters, and as the entire hotel will be under my personal supervision,
I can guarantee entire satisfaction to those that favor me with their
patronage. An important feature will be
HI
cafe: annex.
Feeling that Salt Lake City can and will support a first-class European
Hotel, leads me to make this change, and as the long record of the
Walker is a suitable guarantee for the comforts of the tourist and
traveling public, I bespeak a share of your patronage.
G. S. ERB, Proprietor.


COLORADO SPRINGS AND ATTRACTIONS. 97
Fountain colony. It is situated on a high broad plateau to the
east of and about one-half a mile above the junction of Monument
creek from the north, with theFountain Qui Bouille, from the west.
The citizens have erected some fine buildings, which include a
college, churches, banks, schools, hotels, opera house and many
private residences. The streets are 100 feet broad and the avenues
150 feet, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. Along the avenues rows of
trees have been set out near the sidewalks and little streams of
water are rippling along beside them, from the large canals built
by the citizens for irrigating purposes. Colorado Springs, like
Greeley, is a temperance town, so organized that parties purchas-
ing lots forfeit their purchase if they sell liquor on the premises;
and unless you can procure a physician's prescription, or know
how to "stand in" with the druggists, not a drop of liquor can
be obtained; but then the Manitou springs are only five miles
away, and the waters are to be had at the hotels, where it is brought
fresh every day, for the accommodation of the guests. The waters
exhilarate, but do not intoxicate. There are several hotels; the
Antler's, Alamo and Grand View are the principal ones. The
newspapers are Gazette, daily and weekly, and Herald, weekly.
The scenery viewed from Colorado Springs is exceedingly grand.
To the west "Pike's peak " rises in full view, from base to summit;
altitude, 14,336 feet or 6,308 feet higher than the city. In the
vicinity are some of the most delightful drives and rambles; Man-
itou, five miles; Garden of the Gods, three and one-half miles;
Cheyenne canon, five miles; summit of" Pike's peak," 15 miles, etc.
One finds here an out-door life agreeable and delightful through-
out the year, there being few days when it is not pleasant to ride
or drive. The livery service is excellent, and charges moderate,
and since the natural roads are uniformly in order the scenic
wonders of the region are viewed under the most agreeable circum-
stances.
This city has become of late one of the most attractive summer
resorts in America. Here the tourist, invalid or pleasure-seeker
finds an agreeable resting place, with every variety of interesting,
instructive and charming scenery. The residents for the most
part are cultured people, drawn from all sections of the world.
Most of the visitors at first express surprise to find a city the size
of Colorado Springs in the heart of what they had expected to
find the "wild west," that contained no saloons. Scenery and
climate are not all the attractive features of a residence or sojourn
in this city; the superior public and private schools are ample; the
Colorado college offers a complete collegiate education, while in a
gem of an opera house are often rendered the most popular operas
and productions of the most celebrated authors known to music
and the drama.
Connect1ons—Besides the trains via the Denver, Texas & Ft. Worth, the Missouri
Pacific, Midland, Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, and D. & K. G , all run regular
passenger trains daily.
The Midland Railroad Co. in 1885 commenced the construction
of their road westward from this place, via Ute pass and South
Park, to—don't know, no "fella can find out;" but so vigorously
was the work pushed that their trains were running to Leadville
in 1887, into Aspen in 1888, Grand Junction in 1890, and perhaps
Portland, Oregon, next year. £hcien Sabc?
7


98
MANITOU SPRINGS.
It is generally understood that the Midland is an Atchison,
Topeka & Sante Fe branch—however that may be, the Midland
reaches Denver via the Atchison track.
Colorado City—[Pop., 3,000].—Is two miles west of Colorado
Springs, and can be reached by either the cars of the Midland
railroad or street cars.
Here was the first settlement in the "Pike's peak country" in
1858, and here the first capital of the territory was located. The
town is situated on a high plateau, directly facing Pike's peak, on
the north bank of Fountain Qui Bouille creek. The car and
machine shops of the Midland railway are located here, also flour
and plaster mills. Valuable stone quarries are near, and large
depos1ts of the finest hydraulic cement in the state. Where irri-
gated, grain, potatoes and all kinds of vegetables grow to perfec-
tion. Some fine fruit is also raised. Electric lights, telephone,
etc., are here, also a weekly paper, the News.
llanitOll—where are located the celebrated springs of that
name, is in El Paso county, five miles due west of Colorado
Springs. It is situated on Fountain Qui Bouille creek, at the very
foot of Pike's peak, in as romantic a little nook of the mountains
as one could imagine.
This Saratoga of Colorado possesses' springs more renowned
for their medicinal qualities than those of the Saratoga of New
York, while for climate and scenery, Colorado can discount New
York in the ratio that the sun would a "tallow dip."
These springs are six in number, named Manitou, Navajo, Ute-
Soda, Shoshone, Iron Ute and Little Chief. Prof. Loew, of Lieut.
Wheeler's exploring expedition, gives the analysis of the different
springs as follows:
THE MINERAL SPRINGS AT MANITOU.
In 100 000 parts of spring water are contained—
3
O
f
V
OF
>
ed
'S
tfi
a
0
B
u
od
V
«
a
V
0
0
3
124.69
56.26
0.25
23.82
88.80
59-34
trace.
15.16
0.24
trace.
trace.
129.49
1r1.oo
2051
40.00
108.50
59-04
10.50
508
7.01
30.86
31-59
2.69
75.20
13.01
130
6-24
51.88
31.66
6.10
trace.
1.40
16.21
13-35
trace.
5.12
37.08
18.42
19.71
12.24
39-78
4o-95
13 93
trace.
42.12
trace.
47-97
1.47
2.01
361.60
260.00
Free
97-49
carbonic
281 62
acid.
210.87
213.48
50.2
56
4*5
44-3
43
The waters of these springs, the pure air and life-giviug climate,
the wonderful Alpine cation, valley and plains scenery, the hunt-
ing attractions, the gathering of petrifications and fossils, together
with the delightful rambles and refined society among the citizens
and at the hotels, have made "Manitou, Colorado," known
throughout the length and breadth of our whole country, and we
might say the world for that matter, as, by a glance at the hotel


MANITOU—PIKE'S PEAK. 99
registers in the tourist season names will be found indicating visi-
tors from almost every nation, land and clime, so widely and fav-
orably has this place become known.
The scenery surrounding Manitou is immense and very beau-
tiful. Some of the most interesting objects of interest, with then-
distances from Manitou, are: Garden of the Gods, three and one-
half miles; Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canon, Devil's Punch-bowl, five
and one-half miles; Cheyenne Canon and Seven Falls, ten miles;
summit of Pike's peak, nearest trail, ten miles; Petrified Trees, 15
miles; Monument Park, with Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding,
Vulcan's Workshop and Dunce's Parliament, ten miles; Ruxton's
Glen, Iron Springs and Ute pass, one and one-half miles.
It is not generally known, but Manitou as a winter resort, has
many claims worthy of special consideration particularly by inva-
lids. It is sheltered from the cold northwest winds, which are
the prevailing winds of Colorado, and being thus sheltered in a
cosy glen is far more pleasant aud comfortable than any of the
towns and cities located on the open plains, where they are fair to
the wind. The gravelly soil of Manitou is an insurance against
alkali or disagreeable dust to irritate the throat and lungs; its
admirable sewerage system, the pure still atmosphere, the bright
warm sunshine, the finest mineral waters, the long enchanting
twilights, the quiet seclusion (although within call and having
speaking facilities with the whole outside world), and the equable
climate;- are advantages that when known will certainly tend to
keep the hotels and cottages as full in winter as in summer.
From the little log cabin of 1860, where the writer was wont to
mix a little cream tartar with the water of the Navajo spring for
rising his bread and "slapjacks," Manitou has grown to be a city,
varying between winter and summer of from 500 to 2,000 popula-
tion. Along the main street are stores and fancy shops of all kinds,
and livery stables where the finest turnouts can be had to visit the
attractions in the vicinity. The pure waters of Fountain creek
ripple through the place, along the banks of which are many trees
—Cottonwood, pine, cedar and willow. Cosy little cottages peep
out here and there from among the trees, rocks and gulches as
though afraid their secluded retreat would be discovered. An ele-
gant bath-house, recently erected, is a new attraction and consists
of 18 bath-rooms provided with porcelain-lined tubs, used only
for soda baths, and a plunge 32 feet square and four and one-half
feet deep. The building is roomy and well fitted and furnished
for the comfort and convenience of visitors. Many new buildings
have been added to the town,several hotels erected and others
enlarged, and yet, often the demand for accommodations exceeds
the supply. There are now six large hotels, the Barker, Manitou,
Mansion, Cliff, Sunny-Side and Iron Springs, besides several small
hotels and cottages and boarding houses in scores. The Cliff is
open winter and summer.
P1ke's Peak—Until recently has been reached only by pack
animals over a tortuous trail, but during 1888 a wagon road was
constructed which winds around the mountain on a zigzag but
uniform grade. The company constructing the road ran carriages
over it—when ordered by visitors desiring to make the ascent—
With some apass-it1g acquaintance with a railroad man is an annual feast.


100 COAI, BRANCHES.
charges, $5 for round trip. Parties desiring can hire saddle ani-
mals or carriages and drive themselves to make the ascent, for
which a moderate toll is charged.
The Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway, a recent organization,
commences at a point just above the Iron Springs and runs to the
summit of Pike's Peak. The road is about 8$ miles in length. The
average grade is 18 per cent.,the maximum being 25 per cent. and
the minimum 8 per cent., with 16 degrees curvature. The rails
are the standard T rail, with a double cog-rail in the center,
weighing 110 tons to the mile. Each engine has three cog and
pinion appliances, which can be worked together or independently;
iu each cog appliance is a double set of pinion brakes that work
in the cog, either of which when used can stop the engine in 12
inches going either way, on any grade and at a maximum speed of
eight miles an hour. Fare for "round trip," #5.00.
We shall not attempt to describe the views from the summit of
the peak, as it is impossible to convey to the mind of the reader
more than a faint idea of the extent and beauty of the scene.
The ride up the mountain is a delight; the grand spread of
plains, valleys and mountains affords views second only to those
obtained after reaching the summit of the peak.
Game and F1sh—Are not as abundant as formerly, but by going
from five to ten miles away, game as is game can be found. For
fine trout take a run up over the Ute pass road onto the South
Park slope, and you will find every little stream is alive with them.
Garden of the Ccods—Situated midway between Manitou
and Colorado Springs. It is a singularly wild and beautiful place
to which some poetic' individual has given the title which heads
this paragraph. Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicularly from
the valley to a height of 830 feet, but a few yards apart, forming
a lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful miniature valley
which seems to nestle here away from the gaze of the passers-by
in a quiet, romantic grandeur.
Returning to Manitou Junction, we again start southward; a
few minutes' run brings us to a point overlooking Jim Creek
cation, on the left where General Fremont made camp for a few
weeks during his early exploratious. Close to the west of the
canon on the prairie can be seen the military wagon road of early
days, extending from Santa Fe on the south to Ft. Laramie on
the north. Where we cross it it is still well defined.
Franeeville Junetion—[pop. 50; elevation, 6,022 feet.]—Here
we find the first of five branch roads leading to coal mines. They are:
Francev1lle Branch—To Franceville [pop. 300, 4 miles],
capacity of mine, 750 tons per day.
Ch1cosa Branch—To Forbes [pop. 400, 3 miles], capacity
800 tons per day.
V1ctor Branch—To Hastings [pop. 500], capacity 900 tons
coal and 100 tons coke per day. Runs 50 coke ovens.
GREY'S Creek Branch—Chappell [pop. 50], capacity 400
tons coal per day.


102 TRINIDAD AND SOUTHWARD.
CrEBK [seven miles], Graneroes [six miles], Lar1mer [four
miles], Huerfano [seven miles], Apache [seven miles], and
CUCliaras—[Five miles; pop., 50; elevation, 5,942 feet; from Pueblo, 49
miles; Trinidad, 42 miles]. Pronounced Q-charr-us.
The narrow gauge road to Durango branches off from this sta-
tion to the westward, following up the north bank of Cucharas
river, via Walsenburg, La Veta and Alamosa. The Spanish Peaks,
that have been in view for the last 100 miles, are now about as near
as they will be; the altitude of the nearest peak is 12,720 feet; that
of the west peak, 13,620 feet. It is said that snow and ice are ever
found in the gorges and deep recesses near their summits.
Leaving Cucharas and crossing the river of that name, our
route is through a country where coal-mining and stock-raising is
the only occupation of the settlers. The stations, most of which
we pass without stopping, are unimportant to the traveler. They
arenamed:TuNA [five miles], Rouse Junct1on [four miles], where
there is a coal branch; T1oga [two miles], Boaz [five miles], Ap1s-
hapa [four miles], on Apisapa river; BARNS [fivemiles], Ch1COSA
Junct1on [four miles], from which extends another coal branch,
and
El flloro—[Seven miles; pop., 500; froa1 Trinidad, five miles; elevation,
5,879 feet].—Situated on the Las Animas river, which is also called
by some the "Purgatore" and "Picketwire." It has several stores
that do a prosperous business with the coal miners, coke burners
in the vicinity, and the stockmen and farmers along the river.
Crossing the track of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa F£ and the
river, our route is southward, with the valley of the Las Animas
on our right and a succession of Mexican abodes on the sloping
hills to the left.
The lands along the river are owned by the Mexicans, were
occupied by them before the advent of the white settlers in the
country, and are cultivated by their peculiar methods of irrigation
—by flooding in small beds that are surrounded by banks of dirt.
Trinidad — [Pop., 6,000; from Pueblo, 96 miles; Ft. Worth, 588miles; ele-
vation, 6,005 feet.]—Is situated on Las Animas river, and is the seat
of Las Animas county. The original settlers were of Spanish-
Mexican descent, and now comprise about one-fourth of the pop-
ulation. The city has a number of fine, large brick and stone
business blocks, and is provided with all the modern improvements
for the comfort and convenience of her citizens and the stranger
within its precincts. Trinidad is the center of the largest coal, coke
burning and iron producing region west of the Missouri river, and
is already shipping more of the first named commodities than all
other places in the state of Colorado. Timber is also plentiful in
the mountains to the westward, and agriculture along the Ani-
mas, and stock-raising are additional items of importance tending
to the great prosperity of the city. The Raton range of mountains—
the boundary line between New Mexico and Colorado—are close to
the south of Trinidad, and extend east and west for nearly 100 miles.
Fisher's Peak, at the base of which is Trinidad, rises 3,455 feet
above the city, and directly west, across the Las Animas river, is
Simpson's Peak, or Refuge, somewhat noted in the days of Indian
troubles.


EMERY GAP. 103
Leaving Trinidad our engine describes a back-around-face, and
runs down the river to nearly opposite El Moro, where it shies
away to the eastward, screaming to the bands of cattle and sheep
to keep out of the way. We now have the Raton range on our right,
and will continue to run, in and out, around its projecting spurs
for full 50 miles to Emery Pass. To our left we have the broad
prairie, extending to the Arkansas river, much further than the
eye can see.
This stretch of country is sparsely settled by Spanish-Mexicans
who exhaust all their efforts and energies in raising cattle, sheep
and goats, of which they have a goodly number. The stations are
small; a store, saloon, a few small houses and a stock pen is about
all. They are named—from Trinidad—Beshora [four miles],
Barela [14 miles]; Ada1r [12 miles], Tr1ncherE [five miles],
WaTERVAI,e [six miles], Emery Gap [nine miles].
Just to the north of Adair, upon the broad plain, rising 1,000
feet above it, is Ady's Lookout, a most perfect cone-shaped butte,
named for Col. George Ady, the worthy general passenger agent of
this line. Opposite Watervale, to the northward, are three more
large buttes rising sheer from the prairie, 1,000 feet; they are called
the "Three Sisters," or " The Triplets."
Emery Gap—[Elevation, 6,472; from Trinidad, 53 miles; Ft. Worth,
534 miles]—or Pass is the only route over the Raton range for h
railroad not requiring a long and expensive tunnel. It is the
route selected in 1856 for the Butterfield overland stage. It
had been traveled by the government military trains years
before, and by the great wagon trains to and from Old and New
Mexico and the Missouri river trading points.
The old wagon road from the east followed up the Arkansas
River to Bent's Fort, where it crossed the river and the plains to
this "gap," and on to Las Vegas. The old trail is still plainly
defined.
To the lovers of grand, beautiful and varied scenery, our route
is now becoming quite attractive. The air, too, is cool, light, and
pure. As we roll along, rocky ridges, miniature parks, green
meadows, thrifty shrubs, volcanic cones, sparkling springs, tow-
ering firs, beds of lava, rugged cliffs, fearful gulches and deep and
dismal canons are a portion of the scenery that are whirled into
view as our train twists and turns, climbs and descends in its tor-
tuous course over this pass. The changes are as striking as the
kaleidoscope and far more real.
Alps—[From Emery Gap, six miles; elevation, 6,519 feet.]—The highest
point on the pass. It is said the view of lofty mountains, volcanic
peaks, and rugged Alpine scenery suggested the name; and it
would seem to be appropriate, as Capulin, Emery Peak, Sierra
Grande, Buffalo Head, and many other towering mountains are
in view from this little station. The principal head and source of
the Cimmeron river is in the canon to the left, and within a stone's
throw of the station.
While feasting on this Alpine landscape our train has been
gliding down the mountain spurs at a rapid rate; suddenly it
whirls around a huge mountain spur, with a terrific scream, and


104 FOLSOM SPRINGS.
there, to the left, almost at our feet, is a gem of a valley compris-
ing nearly 2,000 acres, and in the center, like the core of a rose or
crown jewel, sits the new town of
Folsom Springs—named for Ex-President Cleveland's ac-
complished wife—[Pop., 350; elevation. 6,410 feet; f1om Alps, 11 miles; Den-
ver, 286 miles; Ft. Worth, 518 miles.]—The charming summer resort of
the Ratons. Since the completion of the railroad to this place
and a knowledge of its various advantages for summer-resident
purposes have become known, a movement has been made by a
company of capitalists to further add to its natural attractions and
thereby allure to this cozy nook—in the cool, pure and invigor-
ating air of the mountains—the sweltering denizens of a more
southern clime. The company have already let the contract for a
large first-class hotel; have promised to dam the waters of the
Cimmeron, forming a lake covering 70 acres for fishing and boat-
ing purposes; will lay out walks and drives; plant shade trees and
improve the springs, which, with electric cars, electric lights,
and all the modern improvements of the times, coupled with
nature's incomparable attractions, will soon make Folsom Springs
known the world over as the Mecca of the Ratons.
Folsom is in Colfax county, New Mexico, where is located the
United States land office for the district. It is a regular dining
station for all passenger trains. It has a number of stores, hotels,
restaurants, livery stables, etc., and one good weekly newspaper,
the Metropolitan—subscribe for it if you want to keep posted on
the future progress of Folsom. The Railroad Company have a large
depot building here, and extensive stock-pens and feeding yards
half a mile north, where all stock in transit are inspected, fed and
cared for.
A number of springs of pure water and sulphur springs and a
sulphur well are near the town.
The most noted mountain peaks in close proximity to the
town, and in plain view are Emery Peak, altitude 8,790 feet, four
miles northeast; Buffalo Head, elevation 7,000 feet, two miles
north; Sierra Grande, elevation 11,150 feet, 12 miles south; this
mountain is more of a butte, as it rises alone from the broad
prairie, and is 60 miles in circumference. Capulin, elevation
8,000 feet, five miles southwest—the latter is an extinct volcano
with many craters; the largest is over 300 feet in depth, in which
are growing quite a forest of trees.
In the little parks and valleys surrounding the town are some
good agricultural lands, with water for irrigation, but stock-raising
is the chief occupation of the settlers in this region. It is claimed
there are 500,000 head of cattle and 1,000,000 sheep grazing in
the country tributary to Folsom for shipment.
The hunter will find large game, such as bear, deer and ante-
lope within tramping distance of Folsom; rabbits are abundant—
not so feathered game—and nary fish will appear within ten miles
to snpp the fly.
Connect1ons—By Stage to Carrezo, Ind. Ter., 70 miles, leaving Folsom
every Tuesday at 7.30 a.m., arrive at Carrezo, 9 p.m.; leave Carrezo every
Wednesday at 5 p.m., and arrive at Folsom 7 p.m.—Fare, $3.


THE ALPINE Mesa —DOWN IN THE PAN HANDLE.
105
Leaving Folsom, our train commences to ascend by a very tor-
tuous route—the Grand Divide [elevation 6,703 feet], the highest
point on the southern slope—from which we have all down grade
to the end of our journey. DES Mo1nes [ten miles] is the first
station down on the bills from Folsom; it is only a side-track for a
stock-pen, as are the stations of Grande [eight miles], Gren-
vtlle [eleven miles], MT. Dora [eleven miles] and Boyce
[eight miles],
The Alpine Mesa, in New Mexico, is one broad treeless plain,
broken only by an occasional butte, extending to the south, east
and west as far as the eye can see. It commences at Grand
Divide, at an altitude of 6,703 feet, and slopes gradually away for
50 miles to 5,000 feet altitude, near the Texas line.
The average annual rainfall is about 24 inches over all this vast
plain, upon which grows luxuriantly a fine and most nutritious
quality of grass. It is the stockmen's favorite range, and is occu-
pied by them extensively; but, were we inclined to prophecy, we
would say, within the next score of years this great plateau will be
one vast wheat field, producing 40 bushels to the acre. The land
is rich, the altitude favorable, and with 24 inches of annual moist-
ure, there need be no fear of failure.
Clayton—[Pop., 300; from Boyce, eight miles; Texline, 11 miles; eleva-
tion, 5,064 feet.J—Is in Colfax county, New Mexico, near the south-
ern edge of the Alpine Mesa. There are several general merchan-
dise stores here, one hotel, the Clayton, and extensive stock yards
for shipping cattle.
A few miles to the eastward, on one of the small tributaries of
the Cimmeron, is quite a community of Mexicans, engaged in
agriculture, with very satisfactory returns for their labor.
Water tank cars are filled at Clayton to supply many of the
small stations along the lines.
Texline—[Pop., 200; from Clayton, 11 miles; Denver, 352 miles; Ft. Worth,
452 miles; elevation, 4,703 feet.]—In rjanam County, Texas. Is one mile
below the boundary line between Texas and New Mexico. It is
marked by a wire fence, owned by the Capital Syndicate, as, be it
known, we are now in the Pan Handle, on the lands—4,000,000
acres of them—which were given by the State in payment for build-
ing the State Capitol. Inside of this fence range the syndicate
cattle, numbering over 200,000 head; the greater number are
"Texas broadhorns," but these are gradually giving placs to im-
proved breeds. Buffalo, a small syndicate village, 18 miles east,
is the headquarters of the company in the western portion of their
domain.
Texline is at the end of two railroad divisions, where are located
the usual repair shops, a good depot building, the largest hotel,
thus far, on the line, a store and several restaurants and saloons,
besides a number of private residences.
.BS^Our train is now running on a 50-mile tangent, on a heavy
down grade, with nary shrub and tree in sight, nor a foot of land
under cultivation, but cattle are very numerous. The stations are
unimportant (except in name). They are FarwELL [11 miles;
elevation, 4,384 feet]; Dallam [10 miles; elevation, 4,223 feet];


106 TASCOSA—AMORIUO.
Matlock [11 miles; elevation, 4,044 feet]. At the little station
of Tw1st [seven miles; elevation, 3,977 feet], we twist into Hart-
ley county, below the 4,000-foot level, and then twist away to the
right for 10 miles, to
Hartley—[Pop., 350; elevation, 3,915 feet.]—Is the seat of Hartley
county, and a new and thrifty town. It is the supply point for a
number of small villages, and is well supplied with stores and
other buildings. Four miles away are some valuable mineral
springs, where reports say a Chautauqua community is to be
located. •
Hartley is just half-way between Denver and Ft. Worth—402
miles each way.
Connect1ons.—Stages leave Hartley at 7a. m. every Friday for Coldwater,
35 miles, arriving at 6 p. m. Leave Coldwater at 7 a.m. every Saturday, ar-
rive at Hartley 6 p. ra. Fare, $3; round trip, $5.
Passing Duncan [seven miles], and R1vers [seven miles], we
have Mustang Creek canon on the right, and are at the
southern border of the great plains. From this point the sur-
face of the country is more rolling and rough. Changing our
direction more to the westward, we commence the descent of Chey-
enne creek, dropping down 585 feet in 12 miles, to Cheyenne
station [elevation, 3,240 feet]. This station is important only as a
supply point for coal and water to stimulate our motive power.
Half a mile from the station our train crosses the Canadian river on
a pile bridge. The bed of the stream is about one-fourth of a mile
wide, and very sandy. For nine months of the year it carries very
little if any water; the other three months it is from 2 to 6 feet in
depth. In places bluffs, rising sheer 200 feet from the water's
edge, border the river upon alternate sides.
Taseosa station is reached in three miles after crossing the
Canadian. The town ofTascosa, the seat of Oldham county, is
situated on the north side of the river, nearly opposite the station,
and is reached by a pile bridge. It has a population of about 500,
many of whom are engaged in farming pursuits. For ten years
before the completion of the railroad it was chief outfitting point
for the ranches and cattle-raisers for all the up-country region.
Following down the river for a few miles our road turns to the
right and once more ascends to the table-land. On the way we
have passed Ady [seven miles], F1eld [seven miles], and San-
horn [11 miles]. The country along the route is rough and
broken by ravines and bluffs. Grass grows thick and rank, and the
range cattle are numerous.
Aniorillo—pronounced Am-a-re-a—|Pop., 1,500; from Sanborn, 10
miles; Texline, 116 miles; Clarendon,59 miles; elevation, 3,630 feet.]—Is the
seat of Po'ter county, situated on what is known as the lower
plains, in the midst of an agricultural region as rich and produc-
tive as any in the State. The location of the town is most admir-
able, situated, as it is, on an eminence commanding an exten-
sive view of the country for many miles around. The county
courthouse is an imposing structure; the large hotel, the Amor-
illo, is one of the best in the State. The stone, iron and brick
business blocks are large and substautial; the stores and miscel-
laneous business establishments have a prosperous appearance;


108 CLARENDON—RED RIVER.
The town-site is well selected, being on the same broad, rolling
prairie that we commenced traveling over from five miles beyond
Amorillo, and the same that we will have until we pass south to
Goodnight—[12 miles; elevation, 3,152 feet.]—Here the country
becomes more broken, and bold bluffs appear in the distance.
These bluffs mark the streams of the Salt fork of Red river on the
left and Olcott's fork on the right.
The next station — Southard [eight miles; elevation, 2,923
feet]—brings us below the 3,000 foot level, and the next 41 miles
below the 2,000-foot level.
Clarendon — [Pop., 1,250; from Southard, 10 miles; Denver, 527 miles;
Ft. Worth, 277 miles; elevation, 2,734 feet.]—Is the seat of Donley county,
at the end of two divisions of the railroad, where are located
the usual division buildings, shops, etc* The town was born
with the railroad, is improving rapidly at the present time, and
the country tributary is fast filling up with a good class of settlers,
mostly farmers.
For a town of its size the merchants and business men of Clar-
endon appear to be doing an immense business in almost every
line of trade. The town is full of people, and with nearly a dozen
hotels, we found, on our late visit, much difficulty to secure a cot
in any of them. The Windsor is the principal hotel; the proprie-
tor will do his best to provide for you, but if he cannot, he will
fill your pockets with good cigars to smoke while you are hunting
around for a soft plank.
Connect1ons—Stages leave Clarendon every Sunday for Ephraim, 15 miles;
fare, $2; and return on Saturday. To Pladuro every Monday and Friday, 25
miles; fare, $2; arrive on Tuesday and Saturday. To Quitique, leave on Friday,
arrive on Saturday, 60 miles; fare, $5. To Eldridge, 27 miles; fare, $i.50; Cross-
land, 40 miles, fare, $2; Mobeetie, 55 miles; fare, $3; leave on Monday and
Friday; arrive Tuesday and Saturday.
The "old" town of Clarendon is located about six miles to the
northward of the new one, in the valley of Salt Creek, but much
of its former glory has departed since the building of the railroad
and the new town.
Leaving Clarendon, we soon pass into a more broken country,
with few settlers and little cultivation. It is well grassed and well
stocked with cattle. Many of the stations are mere side-tracks,
provided with pens for shipping cattle. They are LELIA [seven
miles], Rowe [six miles], G1les [seven miles], Sal1sbury [11
miles], Newl1n [seven miles], Carey [12 miles].
Of these stations, Salisbury is the most important; it has four
stores, a score or more of shops and private residences, and about
250 inhabitants, with many evidences of thrift. Next year there
may be a thousand people here, so rapidly do these Texas towns
grow; it's marvelous!
gSj^"Red ! Red!! Red !!! is now the prevailing color everywhere.
The soil, water and grass are red; the rocks, bluffs and crags are
red; the trees, flowers and weeds are red; the horses, cattle and
sheep are red; the prairie dogs, fowls and birds are red; in fact, the
men, women, children and the whole country is red in the face.


CHILDRESS—QUANAH.
109
Red river is crossed near Newlin; its bed is from half to a mile
in width, in places, and very sandy, running no water for seven
months of the year. The water, sand, rocks, and everything about
it is very red.
In the months of May and June this whole country is one im-
mense bed of flowers, of many different colors. These, with the
green mesquite shrubs and purple top mesquite grass, present a
landscape of indescribable beauty.
Childress—[Pop., 900; from Carey, eight miles; Clarendon, 57 miles;
Witchita Falls, 106 miles; elevation, 1,884 feet.]—Is the seat of Childress
county; is a regular meal station for all through passenger trains.
The site of the town is on the high prairie to the left of the railroad,
and commands an extensive view of the country for many miles
in every direction. It is a new and very prosperous town, having
quite a large farming community already tributary to it for busi-
ness, and other settlers constantly arriving to secure lands.
The cattle interest, too, is very large.
The county is one of the best watered of any along the line of
railroad, and all kinds of grain, vegetables, fruit and farm prod-
ucts equal those raised elsewhere.
Connect1ons.—Stages leave Childress at 7 a. m. Mondays, Wednesdays and
Fridays for r.ee, 12 miles; fare, 60 cents; Teepee City, 45 miles; lare, $2.25; and
Matador, 65 miles; fare, $3; also to Airlie, 15 miles; fare, $1; Fresno, 25 miles;
fare, $1.25; Collinsworth, 55 miles; fare, $2; leaves at 7 a. m. Monday, and
arrives at 4 p. m. Wednesday.
From Childress comes K1rkland [nine miles], a new town in
embryo, with ascore of settlers and some fine grain fields; then Gyp-
sum [11 miles], with farm houses, grain fields, mesquite shrubs,
fat cattle, thrifty settlers, mesquite and other rich grasses, all
sandwiched in together, in every direction.
Quanah—[Pop., 2,500; from Clarendon, 86 miles; Wichita Falls, 78 miles;
elevation, 1,578 feet.]—Is the most important town in Hardeman
county, having enjoyed a "boom" for several years, until town
property is rated nearly as high as in the city of Ft. Worth. And
the "boom" is still in progress, but is now chiefly confined to
acre property in the county, which, for its agricultural worth, has
a high rating, and is meeting with ready sale, and mostly to
actual settlers for immediate improvement. However, stock-rais-
ing is still the most important, and Quanah is the principal point
for shipment. The town is well supplied with stores of all kinds,
hotels, livery, lumber yards, agricultural implement warehouses,
etc. Churches and schools are also well represented, as the
Quanahites never forget their God or their children.
The town-site is most admirably located upon the high, rolling
prairie, overlooking a large extent of beautiful valleys and a rich
and productive country. Windmills at wells raise good cold water
from a depth of from 35 to 50 feet.
Quanah enjoys the advantage of a regular passenger train each
way daily between it and Ft. Worth, in addition to the regular
through train. It leaves at 3 a. m., arrives at Ft. Worth at 11 a.
m.; returning, leaves Ft. Worth at 4.40 p. m., arrives at Quanah
at 12.30 a. m.


110
VERNON—IOWA PARK.
Leaving Quanah, broad plains, farm houses, mesquite shrubs,
occasional clearing, grain fields, cattle, open range, fenced lands,
rank and luxuriant grasses, alternate all along the route, while
passing Evans [six miles], Ch1ll1cothe [seven miles], Wheat-
land [seven miles]—crossing Pease river just before
Vernon—[Eight miles; pop., 4,500; from Quanah, 49miles; Wichita Falls,
49 miles; elevation, 1,210 feet.]—The seat of Wilbarger county, the
largest town between Trinidad and Ft. Worth. _ It is the center
for an immense back-country trade, and is well supplied with'
mercantile establishments of all kinds to accommodate that trade.
Besides, there are in Vernon three national banks, a street rail-
road, two flouring mills, three weekly newspapers, four lumber
yards, two grain elevators, with a storage capacity of200,000 bush-
els, six agricultural implement dealers, one large planing mill, a
court house that cost $50,000, a $12,000 opera house, a $30,000
hotel, nearly finished, ice factory, electric light and water works,
building, besides scores of lesser industries. Inexhaustible quan-
tities of good well water are obtained at a depth of from 20 to 35
feet, and many windmills are in operation in the vicinity.
Vernon occupies an elevated and sightly position, overlooking
a vast tract of country, much of which is dotted with the farm
houses of the settler, and golden with his great fields of grain.
The soil in this vicinity will produce crops of all the different
kinds that can be grown in any temperate or semi-tropical zone
--and some of the tropical productions.
Connect1ons—Stages daily at 5 p. m. for Margaret, 25 miles, fare, $1.50;
arrive at Vernon 12 m. Also, daily, except Sunday, at 7 p. m., to Doans, 15
miles, fare $1.00; Frazier, Ind. Ter., 35 miles, fare $3.00, round trip, $5.00, and
Mangum, 55 miles, fare, $5.00, round trip, $8.00. Returning, leave Mangum
at 7 a. m., arrive at Vernon at 7 p. m. Connections are made at Frazier with
stages for Navajoe, 15 miles; fare from Vernon, $4.50.
* There is no material change in the country for many miles after
leaving Vernon. Okala Un1on [eight miles] is a promising new
station in the midst of a farming community, and is a place of prom-
ise; present population about 200. Harrold [seven miles] comes
next, and is a growing place with a present population of about 500,
who are about equally interested in farming and stock-raising.
South Harrold stock pens are about one mile further. Beaver
[six miles] has a store and a few farm houses in sight. Day, still
further, is just starting out with the plow in an effort to subdue
the mesquite shrubs; Rutherford [from Beaver, 10 miles] is in
the mesquite openings, with a stock pen and half-dozen buildings.
Very little cultivation in the vicinity. Mesquite grass is abundant
and cattle numerous.
Iowa Park—[Six miles; from Wichita Falls.seven miles; pop.,350; eleva
tion, 1,043 feet.]—Is near the center of Wichita county, and a perfect
gem of a village. The surrounding country, too, is very beauti-
ful. There are no "beggarly crops" here; wheat, oats, corn and
all kinds of vegetables grow here to perfection, and in great
abundance. The greater portion of the land in the vicinity is
under cultivation, and the great State of Iowa (for which this park
is named) cannot rival the soil, production or management, if, in-
deed, she can equal either of them. Iowa Park is undoubtedly in
the line of rapid advancement. It already has a dozen well-filled


WICHITA FALIJ3.
Ill
stores doing a prosperous business; a good hotel—the Cameron; a
weekly newspaper—the Democrat; a large lumber yard and many
neat and tasty private residences. The citizens, by a proper pres-
entation of the climate and advantages of their village, have se-
cured the location of a college here, which is to be erected by the
M. E. church. This fact alone indicates the character of the
settlers at Iowa Park.
Wiehita Falls—[Pop., 3,500; from Iowa Park, n miles; Clarendon, 163
miles; Ft. Worth, 114 miles, elevation, 95S feel.]—The seat of Wichita
county, known as the "banner wheat county of Texas," which is
said to contain fully 90 per cent. of the best agricultural lands in
the State—lands that are now selling for from $3 to $10 per acre;
the balance are fine grazing lands.
We will not attempt to give a list of the products of this
region. Suffice to say, any crop, including cotton, that can be raised
in like latitude and altitude can be raised in this and the adjoining
counties of Baylor and Archer, all of which are tributary to Wichita
Falls for market and business purposes. From this fact, if there
were no others, it can be readily understood why the citizens of
this thrifty town point with commendable pride and confidence to
their fine large stone and brick business blocks, their substantial
bank buildings, large roller flouringmills, cotton gin, fine churches
and expensive school building, Board of Trade building, water-
works, railroad machine shops, stock yards, electric light, and
last, but not least, their two newspapers, the Herald and the
Times. The citizens are well satisfied with the present, and have
unlimited confidence in the future prosperity of their favorite
town.
This town, being situated at the end of power districts, the rail-
road company have erected here the usual division buildings,
round-house, repair shops, etc.
Fruit-raising is becoming of late an important industry; the soil
and climate being very favorable, all kinds do well. Those worthy
of special mention are the peach and strawberry; they grow very
large and of the finest flavor. For canning they are far superior
to those raised on the Pacific coast, and we hear they have been
canned here, in a small way, very successfully. But of all the
humid productions of the soil the watermelon raised here must
be awarded the prize for size. They are loaded with skids and
sold by the ton, never counted. The man that told us never
smiled, so we took it all in—the story, not the melon.
Just before reaching Wichita Falls we crossed the Big Wichita
river, which here runs to the northeast and empties into the Red
river, about 25 miles distant.
Connect1ons.—Wichita Valley R. R. to Dundee, 28 miles, and will soon be
completed to Seymour, 55 miles. Stages connect with thisline for Archerand
Benjamin.
Leaving the Falls, we roll along over a broad, level and beautiful
prairie, most of which is settled, fenced and cultivated; pass a
signboard marked Car1/v/le [nine miles], where there is a fine
site for a town, and soon come to.


112
HENRIETTA—BBUBVUE- - CROSS TIMBERS—BOWIE.
Henrietta—[Pop., 3,000; from Wichita Falls, 19 miles; Ft. Worth, 95
miles; elevation,896 feet.]—The seat of Clay County—with its $40,000
court-house—is located on an eminence overlooking a broad extent
of country which is occupied in every direction by the homes,
fields, flocks, and herds of the industrious settlers.
Among the many fine buildings, business blocks, churches,
etc., the new high school building is one of which the people are
very proud; the regular daily attendance numbers upward of 400
pupils. The stores and shops represent every line of business and
the hotels—St. Elmo, Hopkins and Southern—register daily
guests from nearly every state in this country, including the rug-
ged, rock-bound state of Vermont.
Henrietta has now a roller mill of stone, with a capacity of 200
barrels per day, extensive stock yards, and lumber yards; it has
already two railroads, and the people point to the geographical
location of their town to prove that the time is not far distant
when it will be a great railroad center.
Connect1ons.—M. K. £; T. Railroad for the eastward. Stages leave Hen-
rietta daily, except Sunday, for Benvenue, 18 miles, fare $1.80, Whisky Creek,
25 miles, fare $2.50; Elm Creek, 43 miles, fare $4.30; and Fort Sill, I. T. 65 miles,
fare $6; leave Henriette at 6 p.m.; also, daily, at 5 p.m., for Myrtle, 25miles,
fare $2.50; Antelope, s1miles, fare $3.10; Gertrude, 42 miles, fare $4.20; Graham,
65 miles, fare $5; also, a buckboard. leaves Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays
for Charlie, 22 miles, fare $2.
Leaving Henrietta, in a few miles we are again on the open range,
which becomes more broken as we proceed. There are a few settlers
and farmers in sight, but the country is more adapted to stock-
raising. Alma [six miles] has only a side track and cattle pens, and
Bellevue [11 miles] half a dozen stores, a stock pen, perhaps ascore
of buildings, a few peach orchards, with here and there little fields
well fenced and tilled, the whole sandwiched in between rocky
ridges and oak openings.
Cross T1mbers—At Bellevue we enter what is known as the
Upper Cross Timber country, a belt of broken ridges, about 15
miles in width, extending a long distance across the state, consist-
ing chiefly of white and post-oak, hickory, pecan and black-jack.
The trees are scrubby and of little value except for posts and fire-
wood. Between these ridges are many small meadow-valleys,
with springs and small streams of pure water. This belt is well
grassed, and has long been a favorite range for stock, affording
them ample shelter, shade, water and feed. But great changes
are taking place, as within the last few years it has been demon-
strated that the soil of these little valleys and openings—and in
fact on the ridges when cleared—is very rich and productive, and
is particularly adapted to the growing of fruit.
In crossing this timber belt we will see, far and near, the
location of many new settlers with their garden-like farms and
orchards of fruit-trees. Peach orchards are the most numerous,
as they grow rapidly, produce early after the planting, are large of
size and yield, and of excellent flavor.
Bowie — [Pop., 3,000; from Bellevue, 11 miles; Ft. Worth, 68 miles; eleva-
tion, 1,128 feet.]—Is situated in the Cross Timbers, in the south-
western part of Montague county. It is the commercial center
for a surrounding country rich in cattle and the products of farm
and orchard.


SUNSET—ALVORD—DECATUR. 113
The town contains an unusual number and variety of business
firms for its size, and they all seem to be doing a large trade, pre-
sumably with the people from scores of hamlets in the "back
country " that are tributary to Bowie for business purposes.
The business men of Bowie are, as a class, shrewd and enter-
prising men—the kind who build up substantial and prosperous
communities.
Connect1ons—Stage leaves Bow1e daily at 1 p.m. for Montague, 11
miles, fare 75 cents; Nacona, 20 miles, fare $1.50, returning, leave Nacona at
6 a.m. and arrive at Bow1e, at 11.30 a.m.; also, stages leave Bow1e daily at
1 p.m. for Newpoet, 12 miles, fare 75 cents; Post Oak, 20 miles, fare $1.50;
arriving at 6 p.m.; leave Post Oak at 6 a.m.; arrive at Bow1e at 11.30 a.m.
Sunset — [Pop- 700; from Bowie, nine miles; elevation, 997 feet.l—Is in
Montague county and the Cross Timbers. It is situated in the
midst of the most celebrated fruit orchards of this timbered region.
The pear, plum, cherry, apricot, apple, blackberry, etc., yield
abundantly; also the tomato, sweet potato and the whole melon
family; but the most productive is the peach, which is particularly
fine.
A canning factory, recently built here, has all the business that
it can do, and from the superior quality of the product meets with
a ready sale at good prices.
Surrounding Sunset—scattered all around the timber ridges for
many miles—are farmers, fruit growers, ranchers and stock-raisers,
who do their marketing and buy their outfittings from the dozen
or more mercantile firms in the town. Of the general nature of
these stores one can judge by reading a sign facing the depot—
"Wall-paper and Coffins." This sign reminded usof "Joe Dad's"
experience in Cheyenne, Wyoming, many years ago.
"Joe" had been very sick at the Inter Ocean hotel, but was re-
covering when Caldwell of the Tribune stated in his paper, "the
old man is about to pass in his checks." At that time there was
hot rivalry between half a dozen firms, undertakers and dealers in
coffins, and "Joe" was soon favored by the business cards of each
one. One card concluded with "drugs, undertakers, coffins, corn,
medicine, oats, hay and stock ranched, worm meels all ours."
Connect1ons—Stages leave Sunset daily at 1 p. m. for Crafton, 10 miles, fare
75 cents; returning, leave Crafton at 9 a. m. and arrive at Sunset at 11 a. m.
AlVOrd—LPoP- 1,000, from Sunset, eight miles; Decatur, 11 miles; elevation,
S75 feet]—Is another thrifty town situatedin the Cross Timbers, in Wise
county. Peach orchards, wheat and corn fields, cozy farm houses,
huge wood ricks; broken, rocky and timbered ridges; pretty little val-
ley meadows, together with bands of grazing cattle, comprise the
landscape views in every direction surrounding the town. Here
are stores and shops, covering nearly every line of goods, with
evidences of thrift and enterprise on either hand.
Passing CowEN [six miles; elevation 877 feet], we pass out ot
the Cross Timbers and commence to climb the high, rolling prairie
upon which stands the town of
Decatur—[Pop. 4,400; from Cowen, six miles; Wichita Falls, 74 miles;
Ft. Worth, 4omiles; elevation, 1,o62feet.]—The seat of Wise county; is
situated on an eminence, to the right, in plain view for several
miles before reaching the depot. The two most conspicuous build-
ings are the court-house, which cost •'[ioO.OOO, and the high school,


114 FORT WORTH, TEXAS.
$21,000. A fine gray stone enters largely into the construction
of buildings, both, public and private. Here are a number of large
stone, brick and iron business blocks that would do much credit to
any of the great eastern cities, and in these blocks are large stocks
of goods representing every line of trade, these merchants doing a
thriving business, not only with the townspeople, but with the
great farming, fruit-raising and stock-growing community sur-
rounding it for many, many miles, the whole country being oc-
cupied for some one of these and kindred industries.
In cattle shipments Decatur does a large business, having ex-
tensive stock pens and shutes for loading cars.
Raising blooded stock and improving the "longhorn" breed of
cattle is receiving much attention at different points in the country.
At Decatur is located a large roller flouring mill and a new can-
ning factory.
Connect1ons.—Stages leave Decatur daily, except Sunday, at 10:40 a.m. for
Gun, six miles, fare 50 cents; Bridgeport, 12 miles, fare 75 cents, Jim Ned, 20
miles, fare $1.50; Vineyard City. 25 miles, fare $2; and Jonesboro 40 miles,
fare $3, arriving at Jonesboro at 7 p.m. Returning, leave Jonesboro at 6 a. m.,
arrive at I>ecatur at 4:30 p. m. Also, stages leave Decatur daily,
except Sunday, for Chico, 18 miles, fare $1. Returning, leave Chico
at 6 a. m., arrive at Decatur at 10:30 a. m. Also, stages leave De-
catur Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 1 p. m. for Greenwood^ 12 m1les, fare
75 cents; arrive at Green wood at 6 p.m. Returning, leave Greenwood at 6 a.
m., arrive at Decatur at 10:30 a. m. Also, leave Decatur Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday at 6 a. m. for Paradise, 12 miles, fare 75 cents; Cottondale, 25
miles, fare$1; Springtown, 32 miles, fare $1.75; Weatherford, 40 miles fare$3.50.
Returning, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, arrive at Decatur at 6 p. m.
From Decatur our route is over a high and beautiful prairie,
affording views over a vast extent of country both to the right
and left.
From Decatur to the end of our journey the stations are of little
importance; in several cases only sign-boards by the wayside, or
side-tracks and stock-shutes. They are: Herman [five miles],
Rhomb [nine miles], Avonda1,e [seven miles], Calef [three
miles], Sag1naw [five miles], after which we cross the tracks of
several lines of railroad coming in from the eastward, some im-
mense railroad machine shops and a wilderness of cars and tracks,
then over Trinity river, and to the depot in
Fort Worth— [Pop. in 1880, 7,545; in 1890, 23,076; elevation, 614 feet.]—
It is the seat of Tarrant county, located near the center. The soil
of this country is wonderfully rich, the variety and abundance of
productions amazing, and the material progress achieved in
wealth and importance by its chief town in the last decade mar-
velous in the extreme.
Fort Worth, from one lonely cabin in 1872 to- a city of palaces
in 18110, is a transformation that might well awake an Alladinian
from his Utopian dreams of a fairyland. The palaces of the
private citizens are quite numerous and cost all the way up to
$100,000; and some for business purposes several times that
amount. The Board of Trade building cost over $100,000; also
the new Natatorium, Gazette, Brown-Martin, State, and City Na-
tional, Byers, and some others. The eight-story building, not quite
finished, will cost over $200,000. These buildings are constructed
of stone, iron and brick, as are hundreds of others which cost
from $10,000 to $60,000. The churches, too, are large, expensive
and beautiful. The high school building cost $60,000; the opera
house not quite as much. There are eight National banks in the


CONNECTIONS-DISTANCES. 115
city, with an aggregate capital of $2,600,000. The assessed city
valuation for 1890 was $16,300,000; the grain elevators have a
capacity of 850,000 bushels; the roller flour mills 2,000 barrels
per day; the Union Stock Yards and packing house 500 head per
day. There are over 60 miles of macadamized streets in the city,
42 miles of motor street car lines, and a number of horse-car lines.
There are 11 different steam railroads entering the city, and 32
passenger and 70 freight trains daily. With stores, hotels, restau-
rants, saloons, large and small manufactories, newspapers, shops
of all kinds, electric appliances, etc., the city is well supplied.
The Gazette is the principal daily paper and the Ellis and Pick-
wick the principal hotels.
The favorite residence portion of the city is situated on an
eminence 150 feet above the business portion, overlooking a great
extent of most beautiful country, reached by motor cars.
Climate, Etc.—The ordinary annual rainfall at Fort Worth is
86 inches. The thermometer in winter varies from 40 to 70 degrees;
in summer it sometimes reaches 110 degrees. Natives do not
mind this and strangers soon become acclimated.
Without doubt, this is a very comfortable and pleasant winter
resort, but much too warm for northern blood in summer. One
must not expect to find here, in a region where grow all kinds of
semi-tropical and many of the tropic productions, a cool climate;
if it was cool they would not grow. Fortunately, there are those
who prefer hot weather, and never complain of it. Take for in-
stance the native Texan; you see him in July and August on the
streets in Fort Worth with thick clothes, a heavy sombrero on his
head and a thick ulster coat on his arm.
CoNNEctions.—The railroad connections at Fort Worth comprise all the
lines to the southward, and to the east ard west. As in olden times it was
said, “All roads lead to Rome,” so with this city. First-class coaches and Pull-
man palace sleeping cars, over standard gauge tracks, to all points, can be
secured at the Union depot in Fort Worth. The principal lines to the east and
west are the Texas & Pacific; to south and southwest, Houston & Texas Cen-
tral, Gulf, Colorado & Santa Fe, and the Missouri, Kansas & Texas, to the east
and southeast, the Cotton Belt, connecting with the Queen & Crescent. Passen-
gers arriving at Fort Worth over any of these lines, who desire to visit any
point in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, the State of
Washington, Victoria, B. C., or Alaska, have but one direct through route, the
Union Pacific—“Pan Handle.”
DISTANCES BY RAII, FROM FORT WORTH.
Cities and Towns. States or Territories. Miles.
Aransas Pass..................... Texas.................................... #.
Austin ........... 19
Baton Rouge .. -- 468
Boise City....... ...Idaho ..............…. 1,620
Butte City. º -- lº
Cairo......... ...Illinois..... 67
Cheyenne.......................... Wyoming.. 909
City of Mexico, via Laredo, Texas........ ... 1,269
City of Mexico, via Eagle Pass, Texas................................ 1,541
Corpus Christi.................... Texas....... --- - - - - - - - - - - *:
Dallas............ ... “ .. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - *
Denison . ( & 96
Denton.............................. “ ....... - - - --- 35
Denver ............................. Colorado ................. ... 803
Eagle Pass ... ..Texas, via Houston. ... 671
Eagle Pass ... “ via Austin...... ... 616
Galveston .. ‘‘ via Houston ... 337
Galveston .. “ via Temple. ;
Houston ... ... " … ... 287
Kennedy........................... “ ....................... ... 341
Laredo.............................. “. ....................... ... 432
Little Rock.. ... Arkansas . ... 398
Marshall ..... ...Texas......... ... 179
Memphis............................ Tennessee................................ 549


116 DISTANCES-NOTE AND CONCLUSIONS.
Monterey .......................... Mexico ................................. 599
New Orleans ..................... Louisiana, via Houston..... .... 648
New Orleans .... ... Louisiana, via Shreveport......... 547
Pine Bluff...... ...Arkansas......................... ... 403
Pocatello .... ..Idaho, via Cheyenne... ... 1,485
Portland .......... ....Oregon, via Cheyenne.............. 2,215
Port Townsend . ....Washington, via Cheyenne...... 2,441
Pueblo .............................. Colorado ................................
Salt Lake City. ...Utah, via Cheyenne.
San Antonio..... ..Texas ...................... ------
Seattle......... ...Washington, via Cheyenne...... 2,401
Sherman ..... ..Texas .................................... 89
Shreveport....... ... Louisiana................................ 219
Spokane Falls... .....Washington, via Cheyenne ...... 2, 193
Taylor............. ....Texas ....................................
Tacoma....... ....Washington, via Cheyenne
Texarkana .. ...Texas ....................................
Victoria.......
...British columbia, via Cheyenne 2,477
Waco ................................Texas .................................... 88
NoTE.—If you wish to know just how Denver on the north, and
Fort Worth on the south, are situated commercially and as rail-
road centers, take a common palm-leaf fan, point the handle
towards Denver, and call Fort Worth the point where the ribs of
the fan commence to spread; the ribs will describe a semicircle and
represent the railroad lines diverging from Ft. Worth, com-
manding the business of all to the south, east and west. Now re-
verse the position of the fan, point the handle towards Ft. Worth,
with Denver at the spread of the ribs, and the ribs—railroads—will
point you to the great northwest, to all points in Colorado, Wyom-
ing, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Washington, British Colum-
bia, Alaska and Behring Straits. The Pan Handle link of the
Union Pacific system is the only line uniting these two grand
divisions of our country, extending from the seal fisheries in the
northwest to the cotton fields and orange groves of the Gulf states.
IN CONCLUSION.—The space in this work at our disposal for a de-
scription of a tract of country 800 miles in length and from 50 to
100 miles in width is limited, and the descriptions of the country
tributary to the Pan Handle route are necessarily condensed and
limited, but the varied resources of the country traversed are
practically unlimited. We will say this: To all those who may de-
sire more extended information, go and see for yourself and you
will be surprised beyond words to express. You will find for
stock-raising it's the best in the world. For all small grains, corn
and all kinds of root crops, vegetables, etc., fully equal and some
kinds superior to any raised elsewhere. For cotton, tobacco,
grapes, berries, nuts and all horticultural products, it is unsur-
passed. You will find timber, coal, iron, building stone, lime,
etc., abundant at various points. You will find the country
abounding in rivers, creeks and springs of pure water. You will
find millions of acres of these rich lands that can be bought for
from $2 to $10 per acre and upward when located near important
trade centers. You will find scores of “booming” cities and towns
where judicious selections of lands have made fortunes in a day.
You can make choice of climate and altitude ranging to near 8,000
feet above sea level. You will find the whole country well
grassed, and in season covered with countless varieties of flowers,
and the industrious descendants of the “busy bee” gathering
honey for your daily bread. If a lover of grand, varied and beau-
tiful scenery, you will find it on this route, from the mountains to
the sea; and, finally, if you prove as wor// y as the Texan, he will
give you no half-hearted weſcome.
Returning to Denver we take up the main line across the con-
tinent via Cheyenne, Laramie and Green Rivor.


AGAIN ON MAIN TOUR. 117
OVERLAND
FROM
DGNTER TO CHEYENNE, SALT LAKE CITY
AND ALL OVER
THE LAND OF ZION.
At this writing there are two regular passenger trains leaving
the Union depot by this route daily, and as a change of time fre-
quently occurs, we shall not attempt to give the precise time of
starting, but "time table folders" can be had at the ticket offices,
and principal hotels.
Pullman sleepers are run on all regular passenger trains—usu-
ally those that come over the Kansas Pacific branch.
"AH Aboard !"—Our course is northeast, along the eastern
bank of the Platte river gradually climbing to the prairie; a stop
is made three miles out at the crossing of the track of the Denver
& Eastern railroad, and again five miles at Sand Creek, the cross-
ing of the "Burlington".
Brighton—A thrifty little hamlet, is reached in 19 miles from
Denver. Here a branch of the U. P. system turns to the left,
crosses the Platte river and runs via the Erie coal mines to Boul-
der, Longmont and Fort Collins. [Trains are made up and run
from Denver.]
While rolling along down the Platte river on its eastern bank,
it may be well to keep one eye on those mysterious western moun-
tains, as rapid changes often occur; storm clouds will appear sud-
denly from behind some peak, as though by magic, and while the
sun shines brightly in the valley, a grand view of a "storm in the
Rockies", can be enjoyed with all the accompaniments—at a safe
distance—maybe from 100 miles away. The other eye can note the
effect of irrigation upon this gravelly, soilless land. Water works
miracles here.
Without water for irrigation, these lands that now grow three
crops of alfalfa a year, or ten tons to the acre, worth in Denver
market $10 per ton, would not afford sufficient nutriment to sus-
tain one healthy goat.
Passing several small stations of little note-, Lupton, the site of
an old adobe fort of "ye olden times," and Plattev1lle, our
train stops for a drink at
La Salie—The junct1on of the Omaha & Denver Short
L1ne branch, where we have been before—page 35.
Leaving La Salle, our train turns to the left, crosses the South
Platte river for the last time and stops at
Evans—[Pop., 400; from Denver, 48 miles].—This place was settled
in 1871 by the St. Louis and New England colonists, who by
building canals and ditches from the Big Thompson river and con-
ducting the water over their several thousand acres of upland, are


118 GREELEY—IRRIGATION.
raising good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. Two
miles to the north are located the fair grounds of the Weld County
Agricultural Society, where annually are displayed the productions
of Weld and Larimer counties.
Three miles from Evans we reach the town of
Greeley—[Pop., 2,500; from Denver, 52 miles; elevation, 4,637 feet].
Seat of Weld county. Was laid out in May, 1870, by the Greeley
colony, under the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace Greeley
of the New York Tribune. The colony controls about 100,000
acres of as fine land as can be found in the state. Extensive
canals and irrigating ditches have been built, and water from the
Cache-a-la-Poudre furnishes an ample supply for all purposes.
The town is situated on the Cache-a-la Poudre river, four miles
above its junction with the Platte. When the colonists first set-
tled at this place it was treeless, except on the river bottoms. The
colonists laid out the town with broad streets, planted young Cot-
tonwood trees on each side and led the water along near their
roots. The Cottonwood is a thrifty tree and the result has been
Greeley is embowered in a forest of shade trees—in summer giving
a cool and beautiful appearance. One noted feature of the
town is the absence of all intoxicating drinks—none are allowed to
be sold. The chief penalty for selling is a forfeiture to the city of
the lot upon which it is sold. The public buildings at Greeley and
the churches and educational advantages of the town are of the
best. Stores and shops, banks, mills, elevators, fine business
blocks and private residences, opera house, artesian wells, electric
light, telephone, hotels, newspapers and all the modern improve-
ments and airs of a progressive and independent people are here.
The principal hotels are the Oasis and Exchange. There are
three weekly newspapers, the Tribune, Sun and Howitzer. Gree-
ley also has a Board of Trade, consisting of 125 members.
Those who feel an interest in irrigation have a fine opportunity
to note the methods in use here, and from Denver to this place,
and for about 15 miles further on our journey. The results accom-
plished by the use of water on the desert uplands of Colorado are
marvelous, particularly if one will contrast the irrigated section
above indicated with the appearance of the country beyond and
above the canal lines commencing about 15 miles north from this
place and extending the balance of the distance to Cheyenne—the
soil is equal, but the water is wanting; with water the land is worth
$80 per acre, without water nothing.
Connect1ons—Rail: Fort Collins branch (see S1de Tour No. 5). Mail hack,
southwest to H1llsborough, 14 miles, twice a week.
Proceeding north from Greeley and after crossing the Cache-a-
la Poudre we climb the prairie seven miles to Eaton, in the midst
of fine fields, where wheat, oats, potatoes and alfalfa are the prin-
cipal crops. This is the home of Ex-Governor Eaton, of Colorado,
whose enterprise and fostering care is evidenced by a flouring-mill,
grain elevator and costly improvements.
Leaving Eaton the higher prairie is soon reached, and for the
whole distance to Cheyenne, 47 miles, there are only section houses
and side-tracks of little interest.
After crossing the line of the last irrigating canal north of Ea-
ton, the country is given over exclusively to the stock interests—
sheep principally. Here, too, can be seen at times an occasional


CHEYENNE—FORT RUSSEU,. 119
band of antelope and wolves, and many prairie dogs. The divid-
ing line between Colorado and Wyoming is crossed on the summit
of the ridge, nine miles south from Cheyenne— (Cont'dfrom p. jj)
CllCJ'ClHlC—[Pop.,n,700; elevation, 6,050; distance from Omaha, 516
miles; Denver, 106 miles; Ogden, 516 miles],—Is the Capital of Wyoming
and the seat of Laramie county. It is situated on a broad plain,
with Crow creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the
town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is
apparently level, though our elevations show to the contrary. The
soil is composed of a gravelly formation with an average loam
deposit. The subsoil shows volcanic matter mixed with marine
fossils in large quantities, and where water can be had for irriga-
tion, will produce all kinds of root crops to perfection. Except
gardens and "truck patches" along the bottoms of Crow creek, no
land is cultivated in the vicinity of Cheyenne, stock-raising being
the chief occupation of the people living here.
The Capitol building of the territory is now being erected.
The Union Pacific Railway Co. have just completed here a
fine stone depot, and the "Burlington" has a very commodious
building. The county court house is another fine building, as are
many business blocks.
A Board of Trade has done much for Cheyenne. An opera
house, a great variety of stores, churches, schools, horse railways,
electric light, etc., free public library, extensive railroad shops,
beautiful public park, fine water works, sound banks, a race
course, and fast "steppers," together with fat babies, beautiful
ladies and a good bank account are the boastful claims made for
Cheyenne by her citizens. Yes! and we believe they include the
climate—possibly the gentle zephyrs. The principal hotels are
the Inter-Ocean and Metropolitan. The newspapers are the Sun
and the Leader, daily and weekly, and Tribune, daily; Live-
stock Journal, weekly, and the Mirror, weekly.
Great Centra1, Works. —The railroad company have had
under consideration for ten years the erection of a large machine
and car building plant, at some central point on their system, and
finally selected Cheyenne as the best location. These works are
now nearing completion, and are the largest of the kind west of
the Missouri river, costing near $2,000,000, and will enable the
company to build everything in the line of road equipments that
they will need in future.
Fort D. A. Russell — Was established July 31, 1867, by
Gen. Auger, and intended to accommodate 16 companies. It is
three miles from Cheyenne on Crow creek, which washes two
sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min.; longitude 105
deg. 45 min. It is connected by side-track with the railroads at
Cheyenne. The quartermaster's department—12 store-houses—is
located between the fort and the town, at "Camp Carlin."
Several million pounds of government stores are gathered here,
from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The
reservation on which the fort is situated was declared by the
President June 28, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres.
The fort is in command of Col. II. R. Mizner, and is the head-
quarters of the 17th Infantry, and garrisoned by companies A, B.
C, D, E, F, G, I and K.


120 TOWARDS NORTHERN WYOMING.
FROM CHEYENNE, WYOMING.
Side Tour No. 5—From Cheyenne north, over the
Cheyenne & Northern branch of the Un1on Pac1f1c system.
For lo! these many years the citizens of Cheyenne have been
wont to range their bands of horses and herds of cattle in the
country to the northward, for hundred of miles. During these
years they have been hungering and thirsting for railroad com-
munications, and have had a standing (donation) offer of county
bonds to any company who would build the road.
They found a customer and the construction commenced in
1884, and is now completed and running to Wendover, on the
North Platte river, 123 miles north from Cheyenne.
Until a commencement of the road was made the whole coun-
try along the line and tributary was occupied exclusively by stock-
raisers. With the railroad-grader came the settler with his farm
implements and irrigating canals. There are quite a number of
pretty little valleys, as well as a very large proportion of table land,
that is well adapted for agricultural purposes. At this date, the
title of nine-tenths of all the lands is in the government and can
be taken up under the general land laws.
From Cheyenne there is only one regular train a day, leaving
at 7:00 a. m., and this train is a "mixed" train. It carries pas-
sengers, mails and express, up and down; and merchandise, freight
and freight cars up; and is liable to pick up cars of stone, cattle,
horses, sheep, hay and iron ore on the return trip.
"All Aboard!"—The general direction of the road is due
north, but our track turns west and then northwest from the depot,
and follows up Crow creek.
Camp Carton—The government Q. M'. depot is passed on the
right in two miles, and one and a half miles further Fort Rus-
SElL, also on the right.
Along Crow creek are a few settlers raising "garden truck;"
large fenced grazing enclosures appear, also the Black Hill range
of mountains ten miles away on the left.
IslilJ—[From Cheyenne, 25 miles; elevation, 6,696 feet].—Is the first
regular station. It is situated on Lodge Pole creek, on the old
Cheyenne Pass wagon road over the Black hills. A side-track,
cattle corral, stock chutes and a few settlers near, comprise the
station.
The country to this point has been a rolling prairie, but for the
next 50 miles is very broken but well grassed, with numerous
springs and small streams which, with the shelter afforded for stock
in case of storms, make it a paradise for the stock-raisers.
HorsC Creek—Station—[From Islay, eight miles],—Is situa-
ted on Horse creek, one of the best trout streams in the country.
Here are several stone buildings and monuments of stone, also cor-
rals and chute for loading stock.


IRON MOUNTAIN—FORT LARAMIE. 121
Leaving the station, meadows appear and fenced ranges, after
which the route is very rugged and tortuous as we climb up to
Alius—[From Horse Creek, six miles; elevation, 6,710 feet].—Situated on
the divide separating the waters of Bear creek and the Chugwater.
Rolling down the Chug, seven miles, brings our train to
Iron Mountain—Station—Near the noted Iron mountain,
which is said to be almost pure metal and enough to supply the
markets of the world for countless ages. It is reported to be owned
by the railroad company, but there is no mining being done here
at present. —
One and a half miles further on the left, are extensive quarries
of stone; a rail track is laid to them to facilitate shipments which
are made almost every day.
The country is very broken but well grassed, and we might say,
well stocked with cattle and horses.
P.assing KELLY in 15 miles, a side-track station, with cattle chute,
ranch and hay meadows, the bottom lands are all fenced, except-
ing an occasional gap left to allow the range stock a passageway
to the water. Some of the inclosures are very large, taking in ex-
tensive meadows where the stock-men gather a large amount of hay.
CllUgWater—Station—[From Iron Mountain, 26 miles; Cheyenne, 71
miles; elevation, 5,278 feet].—Is situated in the valley of the Chug,
which is here about one mile in width, and is the headquarters and
"home ranch" of the Swan Cattle Co., who own nearly all
the land in the vicinity.
• Their buildings which are to be seen to the right a few hun-
dred yards away, are very large and fitted up in the most conve-
nient manner. The company is said to own about 40,000 head of
cattle, besides a large band of horses.
Continuing down the valley a few miles Ch1mney Peak, a lone
rock to the right, peeks up heavenward 190 feet.
Bordeaux—[From Chugwater, 14 miles; Fort Laramie, 26 miles; ele-
vation, 4,855 feet].—Is situated on Chugwater creek in a widening of
the valley, where are located a number of ranch farmers, sur-
rounded with hay meadows and cultivated fields.
At certain aeasous this is a busy place, being a central shipping
point for cattle.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast to Fort Laram1e, 26 miles; Rawh1de
Butte, 20 miles; Lusk, 16 miles, six times a week; fare about 15 cents a mile.
Fort Laramie—This fort was established August 12th, 1859,
by Maj. W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a
trading post of the Northwestern Fur Co., was purchased by
the government for a site for a military post. It was one time the
winter quarters of many trappers and hunters. It is also noted as
being the place where several treaties have been made between the
savages and whites. The reservation, declared by the President
on the 28th day of June, 1859, consists of 54 square miles. It is
situated 110 miles northeast from Cheyenne, on the left bank of
the Laramie about two miles from its junction with the North
Platte, and on the old overland wagon road to Oregon and Califor-
nia. Latitude, 42 deg. 12 min. 38 sec.; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26
sec. It is now the headquarters of and garrisoned by B, C, D, E and
F companies of the 7th Infantry, Col. H. C. Merriam, commander.


SHERMAN—ON BI.ACK HII,I<S. 123
9SP" OSTCE MORE—Westward!
Leaving Cheyenne we cross Crow creek, and commence ascend-
ing the eastern slope of the southern range of the Black hills of
Wyoming, which are stretching away in a long rugged line.
Six miles west of Cheyenne, at Colorado Junction, is where the
Colorado Central branch of Union Pacific turned off to go to Colo-
rado before that company acquired the Denver and Kansas Pacific
roads. The track turns to the left of the station and crosses the
hills to the southward to Fort Collins and thence to Denver, via
Longmont, Boulder and Golden—now abandoned as far as Collins.
After passing Bor1e and Otto side-tracks, the heavy grade
commences and snow fences and snow sheds will be numerous
until we get over the "hills."
At Granite Canon—[From Cheyenne 19 miles; altitude. 7,310 feet].
Are extensive stone quarries, limestone and lime kilns. Much of
the stone and lime used by the railroad company and in Cheyenne
comes from this place.
Water for the station is obtained from springs a short distance
to the south, at the source of Lone Tree creek, a tributary of the
South Platte river. To the north ten miles, is the site of the
abandoned Fort Walbach, and the source of Lodge Pole creek.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Box Elder, 12 miles, twice a week. Also
mail northeast to Converse, six miles, thence west to S1lver Crown, nine
miles, twice a week.
Some heavy rock-work now marks the line of road to Buford
[ten miles], and beyond to the "Summ1t of the Mounta1ns,"
which sign appears upon a board just before reaching'
Slierman—[Elevation, 8,247, from Cheyenne, 33 miles; San Francisco,
1,365 miles.]—Named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point just
to the south of the station stands the great stone monument erected
to the memory of the Hon. Oakes Ames and his brother Oliver,
through whose energy and indomitable perseverance the Union
Pacific railroad was completed in an incredibly short length of
time, and whose "little memorandum book," of the former,
paralyzed some great names. (
For the last ten miles the country has presented a wild, rugged
and grand appearance; the levels and little valleys are covered with
a fine coat of buffalo grass and clumps of stunted pines, and high,
bold masses of rock rear their gray sides, piled one upon the other
in wild confusion, while to the north ward the pine-clad peaks of
the Black hills are visible. Nearing, and at Sherman, the scene
is peculiarly impressive, especially if it chances to be one of those
days when the clouds float low down on the horizon; then the ob-
server may look over the intervening space between the "hills"
and the mountain range beyond, to the south and westward, and
See naught but floating masses of vapor; no mountains, no valley,
no forest—only fleecy shapes, and a long dark line rising above
them, o'ertopped by the glistening summit of Long's peak.
From Sherman, "as the bird would fly," Long's peak is south-
west 70 miles; Pike's peak south, 165 miles; to the northwest
Elk mountain, 100 miles. In a clear day all are visible.
The maximum grade of the railroad from Cheyenne to Sher-
man is 88.176 feet per mile.
At Sherman the thermometer varies from 82 deg. Fahr. in sum-
mer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter.


124
WINTERS AT SHERMAN.

VIEW IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.
The W1nters are not as severe at Sherman as many think
neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from see-
ing the great number of Snow Sheds and Fences. Snow seldom
falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the depth of
snow that causes any inconvenience to the working of the road,
but it is the drifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds.
For the purpose of preventing this the sheds, fences and walls
are erected along the road—the latter a few rods away from the
banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air,
which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it in a great
measure from the track. Snow sheds cover the deepest cuts along
the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to oc-
cur. The cold rains and deepest snows come with an east wind;
the worst storms come from the southwest.
Those who reach this altitude from near the sea level will at
first experience some difficulty in breathing, owing to the light-
ness and purity of the air; but, by becoming accustomed to the
change, it will be preferred greatly to a heavier atmosphere.
In an agricultural point of view the wild, desolate-looking
landscape, the stunted trees, the rocks and bleakness, we fear
would disgust an Illinois farmer, while one from New England
would sniff his native heath and jump in ecstasy.
There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms
are deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the
torrents mightier in their power ; but in no place wil 1 the tourist


CROSSING THE BLACK HILLS. 125
feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from mankind and left
entirely with nature as at Sherman, on the Black hills of Wyoming.
Trout—Are abundant in all the streams around the "hills."
The tiniest rivulets swarm with them and their speckled sides
glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds
and are of the finest species.
Game—Antelope, black-tailed deer, some elk, bear, sage-hens,
grouse, hares and rabbits are found in the mountains, hills, val-
leys, and on the plateaus along the line of road for the next 300
miles.
Connect1ons—Mail-hack: South to V1rg1n1a Dale, 17 miles; thence south-
west to Sa1nt Cloud, nine miles; thence southeast to Alkord, seven miles; and
L1vermore, nine miles, twice a week.
Beyond Sherman for over 110 miles the railroad track is laid
between the Black hills and the Rockies, presenting varied and
impressive scenery at different points.
Dale Creek Br1dge—650 feet long from bluff to bluff and
126 feet high, over Dale creek—is reached about two miles west
from Sherman. From the bridge the little stream looks like a
tangled silver thread as it glistens in the sun's brilliant light,
which is sifted through the canon crags and iron netting of the
bridge far down into the green little valley—a valley where at
times can be gathered countless wild flowers of nearly every vari-
ety and hue.
Our train is now on the down grade—no steam required, T1e
S1d1ng (six miles from Sherman) is reached and passed,and we have
the southern end of the great Laramie plains spread out to the
west, almost at our feet; 20 miles in width, with the wondrous
Rocky mountain range rising from its extreme border—range
upon range, peak overtopping peak, away up into the regions of
perpetual snow, nearly 100 miles away.
Ren ISllttCS—[Elevation, 7,300; from Sherman, 15 miles; Laramie City,
nine miles].—This locality derived its name from several ridges and
peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and
the hills on the right.
Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 50 to 300 feet
above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements
into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks, which
at a distance might be taken for castles, rise side by side with the
wall of an immense fort; churches rear their roofs, almost shading
the lowly cottage by their side; columns, monuments and pyra-
mids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though
some malignant power had carried off some mighty city of the
olden times, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon
these plains in bitter disgust. Some few only of these curiosities
can be seen from the car windows and those are not the largest.
The tourist stopping over at Laramie would find much of interest
in this section to investigate.
The Laram1e R1ver—Rises about 50 miles to the southwest from
this station, on the eastern slope of the mountain—its source the
eternal snow and innumerable springs—and runs northeast for 100
miles, where it empties into the North Platte river at Fort Laramie.
Crofutt's Tours No. 2, is profusely illustrated, and all the principal objects
of interest on the Pacific coast, south of Portland, Oregon, are described.


126 LARAMIE CITY—NORTH PARK.
Northward is now our course, the abandoned Fort Sanders is
passed on the right, and we see a meal station in the distance.
Laramie City—[Elevation, 7,149 feet; from Cheyenne, 57 miles; Omaha,
573 miles;Denver, 163 miles; Ogden, 459 miles; pop., 6,500].—Is the seat of
Albany county, situated on the east bank of the Laramie river, on
the broad plain. The town-site was located early in 1868, since
which time its progress has been gradual and prosperous. Stock-
raising is the chief industry. Cattle and sheep are fattened in
this vicinity and shipped to eastern markets in large numbers;
wool is also an important item in the exports. The railroad com-
pany have an extensive machine shop, rolling-mill and spike-mill
near the town. Large soda refining works are located here, the
crude material coming over a rail track from Soda lake, 12 miles
to the southwest, where there are millions of tons of soda; but
bad management of the works is said to have paralyzed the busi-
ness, for a time at least. Glass-works are also here, which are said
to produce a very fine article of goods.
Laramie supplies numerous camps of miners, lumbermen and
ranchmen; has two newspapers, the Boomerang, daily and weekly,
and the Sentinel, weekly. Has a good water system, fire depart-
ment, electric light, etc., opera house, large brick business blocks,
half dozen churches, ample schools, and in fact all the requisites
of a stable and prosperous place. The Thornburg, at the depot,
is the principal hotel. A saw-mill, planing-mill and a number of
small factories comprise the industries of the town. Trees line
many of the streets, and with the running streams near their roots,
grow rapidly and present a cheerful and home-like appearance; in
fact, most of the Laramie residents are here to stay.
Laramie was the first place in America (1869), maybe in the
world, where a.female jury was impaneled. Their first case was
that of a western desperado; they gave him the full extent of the
law.
At the session of the territorial legislature of 1886, the solons
in dealing out "sugar," appropriated $50,000 to build the University
of Wyoming at Laramie, and the building is now being erected.
Laram1e; Pla1ns comprise a body of land about 20 by 60 miles
in extent. Agriculture is not profitable on these lands, yet it has
been demonstrated that potatoes and hardy vegetables can be cul-
tivated with success. Hay makes a good crop, but stock-raising
is the chief industry.
The Snowy Range, so-called, is the great backbone of the
continent; it is covered with snow the greater part of the year,
the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when the
passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspic-
uous and easily discerned at a great distance, hence the term.
North Park—This is one of the least known of all the great
parks in the Rocky mountain system. Yet it has more natural
advantages than any of the others. It contains about 300 square
miles of the finest summer grazing lands in the world. Its eleva-
tion is from 7,500 to 8,500 feet. It is enclosed by the Medicine
Bow range on the cast, the Continental divide on the south, and
the Park range on the west, sloping gradually to the north. The
surface is a series of undulating ground-swells to that of gently
rolling hills and towering heights, that form an unbroken chain


NORTH PARK—CRYSTAL I,AKE. 127
from its south to its northern limits, and making one of the most
magnificent mountain ranges in the world, by its length, height
and immensity. The melting snow on the mountains, and the
countless springs on their slopes and in the parks form the North
Platte riyer, which we crossed 290 miles west of Omaha.
For game it has no equal in the world. Bison, wild cattle,
deer, elk, antelope, bear, mountain sheep, grouse and quail abound,
together with grizzlies and mountain lions, but no trout in the
streams; in their stead are all the different representatives of the
"sucker" family.
The recent mining discoveries within and around the park have
been the means of opening roads through it and settling a portion
of its prairies on the banks of its streams with stock-men. Rich
prairies open out before the eye on approaching the park; gentle
rolling hills and long level bottoms, covered with luxuriant and
nutritious grass common to the mountain parks, with clear, limpid
streams, combining all the natural beauty that hill and valley,
forest and plain, snow and verdure, water and waste can produce
The brilliant, cool, bracing and refreshing atmosphere of the
azure firmament assisting the respiration, so that breathing is
exhilarating to the most sensitive lungs, as well as assisting the
eye to distinguish objects at a great distance. Scenes more replete
with beauty cannot be imagined. The meadows of the park to a
casual observer have the appearance of being boggy, but on close
examination the hummocks so often found on marshy ground
are tufts of grass-that have grown for many years, and remain
standing by reason of not having been grazed, burned or mowed
off. All the meadows that have been mowed, grazed or burned
off become smooth.
There are two routes to reach the park, one from Grand Lake
on S1de Tour No. 1, the other from Laramie. Hacks are run in
summer, but in winter only saddle animals or snow shoes can be
used. For distance from Laramie, see connections.
Crystal Lake—In the mountains to the west, bordering the
North Park, is a lovely sheet of water. " Should the traveler desire
to visit it, the road beyond the plain will be found rough and the
ascent toilsome. Before beginning the ascent of the mountains
we enter one of the grandest forests in the country. For ten miles
we toil on through the forest, which is so dense that the sunlight
hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears
mountain lions and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts
until lately never having been invaded by the '' Pale-face.'' Emerg-
ing from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find ourselves on the
highest point of the mountain, from which we can look over piles
of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond.
Peak on peak, ridge on ridge thej ascend, until their snow-clad
heights are lost in the distance or in the vast blue dome above.
Looking downward, we behold a vast succession of dark ridges
and gray peaks through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating
above them. These dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the
forests of pines which extend for miles and miles in all directions.
To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains which is
Laramie plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged
masses of the Black hills rise in their grandeur, their black crests
closing the scene.


128 COOPER LAKE—ROCK CREEK.
Turn now to the immediate lanscape. Here is a green grassy
lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before
beheld or even read of, and right before us in the center of this
lawn lies a circular lake nearly a mile wide, its clear, soft cold
water glistening in the rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mir-
ror, every object on its banks—transforming them into many fan-
tastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface,
lifting it into little ripples.
The scene is one of unsurpassed loveliness immediately around
you, while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sublime—beyond
the power of words to depict. Whoever visits this place cannot
fail of being impressed with its wondrous beauty, and his mind
will take newer and clearer impressions of the power of "Him who
hath created all things."
In places in the western mountains quartz and placer mines
have been discovered, and some are being worked to advantage
but the "prospector" has done very little work in this region;
when he does, good results may be expected.
Connect1ons — From Laramie west, mail hack in summer, saddle and
snowshoes in winter to Hatton, 22 miles; thence southwest to Centenn1al,
12 miles, once a week. Also to the southwest—same kind of conveyance—three
times a week to Woods, 25 miles; P1nkhampton (in Colorado), 30 miles, thence
southeast to Canad1an, 12 miles; Walden, 11 miles; thence southeast to
Haworth, five miles; thence south to Rand, 20 miles; from Walden southwest
to Hebron, 16 miles; thence south to Sp1cer, 12 miles, connecting at Spicer
with lines for Kremml1ng, Steamboat Spr1ngs, D1llon, etc.
Leaving Laramie, our train rolls northward down the river,
perhaps stopping for a moment at the unimportant stations of
Wyom1ng (14 miles), at the crossing of Little Laramie river;
Hutton'S (seven miles), Cooper Lake (six miles), west of which
is a lake of same name, two miles long and half mile wide. At
Lookout (five miles) we enter the rolling prairie country, where
for 25 miles along the road bands of antelope, elk and deer are
found at different seasons of the year, the elk and deer being
mostly found in the winter, when the deep snow drives them from
the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage-
brush, which indicates that we are entering the country where this
more useful than ornamental shrub abounds. Harper (sixmiles);
M1SER (six miles), where sage-brush is the rule; then (five miles)
after crossing Rock creek we reach what is, for some trains, a
regular meal station.
KoC'k Creek—[From Laramie, 49 miles; elevation, 6,704 feet]—Situ-
ated on the creek of that name, in a section wholly devoted to the
stock interests. A large hotel (sometimes a meal station), depot
buildings, store and a few private residences comprise the place.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North to Mounta1n Home, 40 miles; Beaver, 27
miles; Douglass, 16 miles, twice a week.
Our course is now eastward for a few miles, the train winding
around the sharp spurs of the high prairie bluffs which seem to
bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough,
rolling country, again turning westward over bridges and fills,
through cuts and snow sheds, crossing creeks and ravines, passing
W1lcox (seven miles) and Aurora (nine miles). Soon after
leaving Aurora we come to Cou1o lake, a little sheet of water lying
to the right of the road. It is about one mile long and half a mile
wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a " fish with legs." These fish-
animals possess gills something like a cat-fish, are amphibious,


VIEW IN NATIONAL PARK.
129

FALLS AND CLIFFS IN YELLOWSTONE PARK.
being often found crawling clumsily on land, miles from the lake.
Quite a variety of peculiar fossil shells are found around the lake
that are gathered iu summer by persons who offer them for sale to
tourists.
Med1c1ne Bow R1ver—Is crossed a few miles after leaving
Como. It rises in the Medicine Bow mountains to the southwest,
and empties its waters into the North Platte river.
t Should you have the stomach-ache or cut your finger while on the Pacific
coast, don't fail to abuse a Chinaman for it. It's the thing to do over there; iu
Utah charge it up to the Mormons, on polygamy account.
9


130 CARBON—EI.K MOUNTAIN.
This river was long a noted resort for Indians and several
treaties have been made on its banks between the "noble red
men" and their pale-faced "brothers." The valley of the river,
above the railroad, for 20 miles or more, is broad, fine bottom
land, until it reaches the base of the mountain. From thence to
its source the course of the river is through immense forests of
pine, which present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are
found in great quantities in the streams, and the various kinds of
game which abound in this country are found in the mountains
where the river has its source.
Medieine BOW—[From Rock Creek, 23 miles].—Contains several
stores and saloons. The railroad company have a round-house
here besides the usual freight and station buildings. Stock-raising
is the only industry in this region of the country.
For nearly eight miles after leaving the "Bow," the road is over
a level plain, beyond which a rough, hilly country is entered, as
well as a number of snow sheds.
Cnrl>On—[Pop., Soo; from the "Bow," ten miles; from Cheyenne, 141
miles; elevation, 6,821 feet].—Is the first place on the Union Pacific rail-
road where coal was discovered and the company secured the mines
and have ever since mined, used and shipped large quantities.
AH but a few of the citizens of Carbon are engaged in mining
coal, and that few are stock-raisers The usual number of stores,
etc., found in a place of the size are represented here.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Elk Mounta1n, 13 miles, three times a
week; thence connecting for the southeast to Rockdale, 17 miles, twice a
week. Also to the north from Carbon to Ross, 15 miles; thence „west to Iveo,
15 miles, once a week.
Westward, the divide between the waters of Medicine Bow and
the Platte is traversed. S1mpson (six miles) is passed and Percy
(five miles) reached.
Elk Mounta1n is seven miles due south from Percy, at the
base of which, in "ye olden times," was located Fort Halleck, and
an important station on the old overland stage line. This moun-
tain is a noted landmark and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises
to an altitude of 11,511 feet, its top covered with snow the greater
portion of the year, and at all times snow can be found in places
near the summit. It has the appearance of being an isolated peak,
though really it is the extreme northern outpost of the Medicine
Bow mountains. It is, however, surrounded by high rolling
prairie land and rises from it rough, rugged and alone. It is
nearly round, and about six miles in diameter at its base. On the
west side the summit is easily reached by a lumber road. The
sides to nearly the top are covered with a dense forest of pine, fir
and hemlock. To the east of the mountain, Medicine valley; to
the south and west, Soda and Pass creek valleys. In places
along these valleys a large amount of hay is gathered by the stock-
men for their winter use.
In all the little creeks in these valleys and vicinity the moun-
tain trout has its home. You can find him in, and he will enter-
tain you. Haired and feathered game of all kinds can also be
found. Some of the former are very large and are named moun-
tain lions, grizzlies, bears, cats, etc., who find their homes in the
fastness of the forest, in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of
the mountains. If you have the nerve go for them ! but you must
look a Icetle out all the time.


FORT FRED STEELE—AND VICINITY. 131
From Percy to the Platte river, 29 miles, the road is built down
(he valley of art alkali ravine. Sage-brush and pools of alkali
vater alone greet the eye. Dana (six miles) is passed, then Edson
(eight miles) and WalcoTT (eight miles), all great names, but
not yet risen to great distinction in commerce or.population.
Before reaching Wolcott's the valley narrows to a ravine, then
to a narrqw gorge; then rugged spurs shoot out from towering
bluffs on either side as though to bar our progress; yet down we
go whirling around these finger points where one projection from
either wall marks an indenture on the other. While looking on
- this scene one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was
not—that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks
in twain, leaving these ragged walls and fetid pools to attest the
fact. Be that as it may, we now know that our train is thundering
down this dismal gorge, at lightning speed, dodging and shying
all apparent obstructions, when suddenly our iron horse gives
forth one long terrific shout, and whirls out to daylight and to
the level lands of North Platte river, crosses the river, and stops a
moment, to take a drink, at
Fort Fred Steele—[Elevation, 6,505 feet; from Wolcott, six miles].—
This post was established June 30th, 1868, and abandoned in 1886,
only an agent being left to protect the government property.
Connect1on—Mail hack: South to Saratoga, 28 miles, six times a week.
From Saratoga southward to Swan, 20 miles; Coll1ns, ten miles, twice a week.
North Platte River—We first interviewed this stream 290
miles from Omaha. Under Laramie it was again seen, but now, as
we are leaving it forever, will say: From its source in the North
Park t* this place it is over 150 miles, nearly due north. Above
Steele 25 miles is the old Platte ferry (now a bridge), on the old
stage road. From 30 to 50 miles up the river Douglass, French,
Monument and Big creeks empty their waters into the Platte. On
both Douglass and French creeks gold placers have been discov-
ered and are being worked; also several quartz mines.
Eight miles from Douglass creek some fine coal mines have
been discovered; near by quartz veins crop out on the hillside,
and hot sulphur springs, seven in number, are "running wild"
only a few feet from where rises a clear, sparkling spring of ice-
cold water; and we opine that the time is not far distant when
these springs will be taken up, a narrow gauge railroad laid down,
hotels built, and one of the finest "watering places" in the world
opened to the public.
JgrThe last paragraph above was written in July, 1869, and
appeared in the first volume of our Trans-Continental Guide.
Was it prophecy? Call it what you will, but the coal lands have
all been taken up, also the springs; a fine hotel has been erected;
the bed for the railroad graded (by Union Pacific Co.) and before
many more moons have come and gone, the locomotive will haul
the traveler in palace cars to this Saratoga of the west.
At Saratoga, on the Platte river near the junction of Spring
creek, are hot springs said to possess valuable medicinal qualities;
a hotel has been recently erected near which affords good accom-
modations. The region abounds with game and the streams in
the vicinity with trout. *
It takes a smart man to conceal from others what he does not know.-*


132
RAWT,INS—ZANDER—WASHAKIE.
Leaving Fred Steele and climbing up onto the prairie, two
miles brings us to Benton, which, in August, 1868, boasted of a
population of fully 3,000, but before October following—the "end
of the track" having meantime stretched away to the westward
100 miles—the people "packed up their tents and stole noiselessly
away," leaving only a few lone graves, old chimneys, scattered
cans and post holes to mark the site of the once "booming town."
After reaching Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to
the canon of the Platte below Fort Steele are plainly visible, and
will continue in sight for 15 miles. At the entrance of the
canon the river makes a turn to the west, and for several miles our
train seems to be running down the river parallel with it though
really drawing away to the westward.
Hog Back—Four miles to the southward rises a high ridge
from 500 to 1,000 feet above the prairie. It is about 15 miles in
length, terminating in the highlands to the westward. It is called,
the "Hog Back." It is but about half a mile wide at the base, ris-
ing so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and 
 places it
is all but impossible for a man to walk along its summit. Where
this ridge reaches the river, about three miles above Fred Steele,
the walls are perpendicular, and about 1,000 feet in height. A
corresponding range on the opposite side shows that the river has
cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the
progress of the waters. '-—
From Fred Steele our train has been gradually climbing, and
will continue to do so for over 40 miles from that place.
Rawlins—[Pop., 2,100; elevation, 6,744 feet, from Denver, 289 miles;
Omaha/709miles; Ogden, 223 miles.]—Seat of Carbon county, named in
honor of Gen. J. A. Rawlins. Stock-raising is the chief occupation
of the people, though there are many citizens interested in mining
and several hundred employed by the railroad company in their
machine shops and works located here.
The county buildings, water works, churches, schools, banks
hotels and business blocks are equal to any in the territory.
The Railroad and Brunswick are the principal hotels. The Jour-
nal, tri-weekly, the Tribune, weekly, and the Laborette, weekly,
are newspapers published here.
Near the town are extensive quarries of valuable sandstone,
being worked, and an inexhaustible deposit of red oxide, which
supplies a valuable mineral paint that is now extensively used by
the railroad company, as well as shipped to eastern markets.
Near the town is a fine spring of sulphur water rising from
under the bed of blue limestone, but it is little used—the citizens
being a reading people, are a little suspicious of sulphur.
To the north of Rawlins 140 miles, is the town of Lander, in
Johnson county, situated in a beautiful little valley, watered by
the Popo Agie and its numerous branches, just at the eastern base
of the Wind River mountains, and within a few miles of the great
oil wells of Wyoming. Ten miles north is the
Shoshone and Arapahoe Ind1an reservat1on, comprising
1,520,000 acres in the Wind River valley, on which are 1,963 Indians.
ForT Washak1e, a government military post on the reserva-
tion, is garrisoned by two companies of the 7th Infantry, G and I,
and one troop, E, of the 9th Cavalry, about 150 men—Maj. A. T.
Smith, commanding.


CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. 133
For business Lander, the Fort and the oil fields are tributary
to Rawlins.
Connect1ons—Northwest, daily, four-horse stages for Crooks, 70 miles;
Rong1s, nine miles; thence westward, Mayersv1lle, 16 miles; Ha1ley, 14
miles; Derby, 14 miles; Lander, 14 milesj Shoshone Agency, 14 miles, and
Fort Washak1e, two miles, Total, 153 m1les.
Connecting at Hailey three times a week, to the northwest to M1ners'De-
l1ght, 20 miles; Atlant1c C1ty, four miles; South Pass C1ty, four miles.
Connencting at Fort Washakie, north once a week, for F.mbar, 65 miles;
Meeteetse, 60 miles; thence northeast to Otto, 45 miles, and east to Hyatt -
v1lle, 45 miles.
Connecting at Rongis, north once a week for Lost Cab1n, 61 miles; Red
Bank, 45 m1les; Spr1ng Creek, 20 miles; thence northwest to Bonanza, 40
miles; thence northeast to Hyatv1lle, 15 miles.
From Rawlins north twice a week to Ferr1s, 46 miles; Sweetwater, 18
miles, and Lamar, nine miles.
Connecting at Ferris, southeast once a week to Sem1noe, 15 miles; also from
Ferris, northwest once a week to Durb1n, 18 miles.
From Rawlins south, three times a week to Sulphur, 28 miles; Bagg's,
36 miles, and thence east to D1xon, six miles.
Connecting at Dixon, east twice a week to Slater, ten miles; also from
Dixon, southwest once a week to Lay, 45 miles,
Connecting at Lay, south three times a week to Routt, eight miles;
Meeker, 36 miles; Ferguson on the Grand river, 46 miles.
Separation—West from Rawlins 13 miles, is a small station,
so named from its being a point where two parties of railroad sur-
veyors in early days, who had been near each other for a long
distance, separated to run different lines to the westward.
The railroad company have a number of artesian wells along
the line that are from 326 feet to 1,145 feet in depth, flowing from
400 to 1,000 gallons an hour, in one place 26 feet above the sur-
face. By pumping these wells will supply from 650 to 2,400 gal-
lons of water per hour. The one at this station is 1,103 feet deep,
in which the water stands ten feet from the surface, and by pump-
ing yields 2,000 gallons per hour.
We are rising rapidly, and after passing F1llmore (eight miles)
and Creston (six miles) are nearingthe summit of the main range
of the Rocky mountains, which is reached two and a half miles
west of Creston, marked by a sign-board on the north side, reading
"Continental Divide."
The altitude of this divide is 7,100 feet. It is distant from
Rawlins 30 miles; Cheyenne, 223 miles; Omaha, 739 miles, and
Ogden, 293 miles.
Standing on this wild spot surrounded by few evidences of
vegetation, this little sign marks the center of the grandest range
of mountains on the continent. Amid what seems to have been
the wreck of mountains, we stand and gaze away in the vast dis-
tance at the receding lines of hill, valley and mountain peaks,
which we have passed on our journey. We feel the cool mountain
breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma of life and vegetation
with its cooling current. We know that the same sky which
hangs so warm and blue over the smiling valleys looks down upon
us now—but how changed the aspect! Thin, gray and cold it ap-
pears, and so clear that we almost expect to see the stars looking
down through the glistening sunbeams. We do not seem to be on
, the mountain height, for the expanse seems but a once level plain,
now arched and broken into ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate
knobs.
Here, if a spring should rise from this sage-brush knoll, its
waters would divide, and the different portions eventually mingle
with the two oceans which wash the opposite sides of the continent.


134 BITTER CREEK—ROCK SPRINGS.
To the north the Sweet Water mountains rear their rugged
heights. Still farther the Wind River mountains close the scene
in the dim distance, their summits robed in snow. To the south-
ward rise rugged outposts of the Rockies, along the northern base
of which our train will run nearly on to 50 miles.
With a farewell look at this rugged, barren and desolate region,
our train speeds away over the crest and will heve down grade for
the next 106 miles, dropping down in that distance 1,033 feet.
Seven miles gives Latham the go-by and eight miles further
brings Washak1e to view. Here is an artesian well 638 feet deep,
which at 15 feet above the surface flows 800 gallons per hour.
Red Desert—Is nine miles further, a pair of them, station
and desert—the former in the midst of the latter. This desert
waste extends each way about 16 miles, and is composed of the
decomposition of shale and calcareous clays, and is deep red, show-
ing the presence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. It's a huge
basin, its waters having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are found
in it, but nothing lives on its surface. The southern margin of the
basin is mainly sand, which is lifted up by every passing breeze to
fall in drifts and shifting mounds.
Table Roek—[From Red Desert station, 12 miles].—Is named for a
red sandstone bluff to the left, which rises full 500 feet above the
station. It is the most conspicuous in a long range of red cliffs,
which are mainly composed of fresh water shells, worn, cut and
fluted by the action of the elements. Passing through the rim of
the desert and Monell, we reach
Bitter Creek—[From Table Rock, ten miles].—At this place the
railroad company have a round-house and a machine shop for re-
pairs. Stock-raising is the only industry here; and the number of
cattle and sheep ranging within 50 miles is almost incredible.
Soon after leaving this station we commence the descent of the
celebrated Bitter creek of "ye olden times." The overland stage
and emigrant road follows this valley from its source to Green
1 irer, 60 miles. The valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near the
creek on either side. The stream is small and so strongly im-
pregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or beast.
The banks and bottoms are very treacherous in places, miring any
cattle which attempt to reach its fetid waters. This section was
always a terror to travelers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing
in the line of vegetation will grow excepting grease-wood and
sage-brush. The freighter especially who had safely navigated
this section would "ring his popper" and claim that he was a
"tough cuss on wheels from Bitter creek," etc.
The further we go the higher the bordering bluffs, the valley
narrowing, while the spurs reach out lovingly to meet their
brothers on the opposite side.
The small stations of Black Buttes, nine miles; Hallv1lle,
five miles; Po1nt of Rocks, seven miles; Thayer, six miles;
Salt WELLS, six miles, are soon passed and we arrive at
Roek Springs—[Seven miles; pop., 1,500].—The greatest coal
mining town on the line of the Union Pacific. The station was
named after a saline spring of water which boils up near the foot
of the bluffs, looking very clear and nice but it's very deceiving—
an uncommon thing in this truthful world.


CHINESE MASSACRE—GREEN RIVER. 135
There are a number of mercantile establishments here, some
of which do a very large business among the stock-growers—cattle
and sheep. The shipments from this station other than coal,
which goes by train loads daily, are cattle, sheep and wool. To the
south from 15 to 30 miles are a few settlers who do a little in the
agricultural line, and raise good crops, too—but the one, stock-
raising, is the almost exclusive industry. The Wyoming Coal
Co. (a sub-name for the railroad company) do an immense business
in this vicinity in mining and shipping coal. It was at this place
where the infamous Chinese massacre took place September 2d,
1885, in which the abodes of the Chinese were sacked and burned
by unnaturalized white miners, who hunted the Chinese to the
hills, killing upwards of 30 and maltreating hundreds of others.
The riot was quelled by the arrival of government troops; and
the government paid the bill rendered by the Chinese government.
Camp P1lot Butte—Is a government post located half a mile
north of the depot—placed there for the protection of the Chinese
miners—about 1,000—and the coal mines in the vicinity. The
Union Pacific Railway Co. built the quarters for officers and men
without expense to the government. The camp is now garrisoned
by two companies, A and H, of the 7th Infantry, about 100 men,
Capt. H. B. Freeman, commanding.
P1pe L1ne—January 9th, 1888, the citizens of Green River City
and Rock Springs celebrated the completion (by the railroad com-
> pany) of a pipe line for conducting water from Green river to a reser-
voir overlooking this town. Heretofore since the completion of the
railroad in 1869, a water train has been run between the two places;
as the water near Rock Springs is too saline for use.
There is but one newspaper published at Rock Springs, the
Independent, which is issued weekly, and a very spicy and lively
journal it is.
Coal veins crop out all along Bitter creek, varying in thickness
from a few inches to 12 feet. On the bluffs near Point of Rocks,
just above a coal vein, Prof. Hayden says, "is a seam of oyster
shells six inches in thickness, which is an extinct and undescribed
species, about the size of our common edible ones."
The sandstone bluffs at points along the road are worn by the
action of the elements into curious fantastic shapes, some of which
have been named "Caves of the Sand," "Hermit's Grotto, "Water-
washed Caves of the Fairies," "Sancho's Bower," etc.
Prof. Hayden in his geographical examination of this section of
the creek, reported finding "preserved in the rocks the greatest
abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm and maple."
Again, "among the plants'found is a specimen of fan-palm, which
at the time it grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous dimensions,
sometimes having a spread often or 12 feet. These gigantic palms
seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of
these ancient forests."
From the Springs down the scenery becomes more striking, the
gorge narrow and the bluffs higher, almost hanging over the road
with their frowning battlements. Through this gorge rattles our
train, 15 miles to the waters of the Green, to a meal station.
Oreen River—[Pop., 600; elevation, 6,077 feet; fromOgdcn, 1S7 miles;
Cheyenne, 329 miles],—Seat of Sweetwater county where are located
substantial county buildings and the largest and best hotel and
meal station on the whole line of road. The appearance of the


136 GREEN RIVER AND VICINITY.
town—from an eastern standpoint—is not beautiful; but the amount
of business done figures heavy, that of one firm alone (Hunter
& Morris) is little short of $200,000 per annum. Gold, silver, coal
and plumbago mines are tributary to this place for business, and
the whole country around about is rich in cattle, sheep and
horses—it has them on more than a "thousand hills." The
country to the north and south, and just over that bluff affords the
finest grazing range in the western country.
Down the Green from ten to 40 miles, oats, barley, potatoes,
vegetables and alfalfa, have made good crops, but these have been
raised principally by stock-men for their own use. Up the Green
Prof. Pease, of Central City, Col., accomplished some astonishing
results, but we understand he has left the country to accept a
position as Chief of Agriculture for the English government in
India.
The railroad company have here the usual machine shops and
buildings found at terminal stations; besides which there are here
several small manufactories and a brewery.
The bluffs near the station present a peculiar formation called
by Prof. Hayden the "Green river shales." The walls rise per-
pendicularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish buff color, and
are composed of layers apparently sedimentary deposits of all
thicknesses from that of a knife-blade to two feet. At the base of
the bluff the layers are thin and composed of arenaceous clay,
with laminated sandstone, mud markings and other indications of
shallow water or mud flats; color for 100 feet, ashen brown; next
above are lighter colored layers, alternate with greenish layers
and fine white sand. Passing up, clay and lime predominate, then
come layers of boulders, pebbles and small nodules.
There are also seams of very fine black limestone saturated
with petroleum. Near the summit under the shallow calcareous
sandstone, there are over 50 feet of shales that contain more or less
of oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep
rusty yellow sandstone, which presents the peculiar castellated
forms which with the banded appearance, have given so much
celebrity to the scenery about this station.
YE O1,den T1mes—For years previous to the building of the
railroad, Bill Hickman, Brigham Young's destroying angel, ran
a ferry across the river just below this station, and as the river was
seldom fordable except late in the fall he reaped a rich harvest of
gold from the overland pilgrims. His prices for crossing teams
were from $5 to $20, according as the owners were found able to
pay. Those times were, comparatively only yesterday and to-day
we might say with the juggler "presto!" and you can note the
changes. We have the "iron horse," the palace cars, the sub-
stantial iron br1dge, and are whirled across the continent at forty
miles an hour. Do travelers on these flying trains while resting
at their ease ever think of the early pilgrims, the hardy pioneers
who toiled across this country with ox teams, and their all on earth
maybe with a hand cart; on foot and alone, requiring from five to
seven months traveling the same distance now made in three days?
These pioneers laid out the route we are traveling to-day and made
it safe for us. They suffered every kind of hardship, many even
unto death and the few that remain are fast passing "o'er the
range," yet the fruits of their adventurous and daring intrepidity-
will ever remain.


GREEN RIVER BASIN—EXPLORATIONS.
137
Connect1ons—Buck-board: Northwest once a week to Fontenelle, 65
miles; Dry P1ney, 35 miles; thence east to B1g P1ney, 14 miles.
Green R1ver rises near Fremont's peak in the Wind River
mountains, nearly 200miles north,and is fed by innumerable springs
and tributary streams, chief of which is Big Sandy. About 150
miles south of this station it unites with the Grand and becomes
the Colorado river.
The Bas1n of Green r1ver, although not properly a basin, con-
tains about 8,000 square miles of mountain, foot-hill, high prairie
and valley land, divided about equally. The mountain portion is
well stocked with timber, as yet untouched by the axman; the
foot-hills are covered with the finest grasses; the high prairies and
valleys with a heavy growth of sage-brush, from a soil as rich as
the richest in our country; and right here let us say there is not
an acre of sage-brush land in any portion of the western states and
territories of the United States but will produce good crops, cereals
and vegetables, with water for irrigating them. This proposition,
with our western people or those who have had the observation to
note the results of irrigation in Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona,
Montana, New Mexico and Wyoming, on this kind of land is well
established—"goes without saying."
Only a small portion of the lands in this "basin" has been
surveyed by the government, and only a few thousand acres are
claimed and settled upon.
M1nerals—Gold, silver, copper, lead and plumbago mines
have been found in the mountains surrounding the "basin," some
of which are worked very successfully.
F1sh—in many varieties, are numerous in all the streams near
their head, particularly the famous and favorite mountain trout.
In ''hooking'' trout in this region, the delight of the sport is much
lessened by the abundance of fish and their verdancy as to the de-
signs of the angler.
Game—such as elk, antelope, deer, bear and mountain sheep are
more abundant in the Green river basin and adjoining mountains
than in any part of our western country, while grizzlies and moun-
tain lions are not uncommon in the higher mountain canons.
But of all game, the hares, cotton-tail rabbits, prairie chickens and
sage hens, are most numerous; in fact the whole country is alive
with them, almost to becoming a nuisance. They are too abund-
ant to sustain the sportsman's interest in "bagging" them.
Explor1ng Exped1t1on—From Green River station the first
exploring expedition of Maj. Powell started May 24th, 1869. The
party consisted of about a dozen well-armed, intrepid men, mostly
western hunters. They had four well-built boats, with which to
explore the mysterious and terrible canons of the lower Green and
Colorado rivers. These gorges were comparatively unknown, the
abrupt mountain walls having turned the travel far from their
sterile shores. Science and commerce demanded a solution of the
question: "Can the upper Colorado be navigated?" and Maj.
Powell undertook to solve the problem. The party encountered
many hardships and discovered the most magnificent canon scenery
in the world. The report of the major enlightened the people on
the mysteries of a very interesting region before wholly unknown,
at the same time demonstrated that the Colorado is not navigable
for large craft.


138
GRANGER—CHURCH BUTTES.
\orlli-wesl Coast—At Green river trains are made up for
the Oregon Short-L1ne, for Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washing-
ton and the Puget Sound country. And after we have been over
to Utah and visited the land of mothers-in-law, we will return
here and take a run over this new line, commencing on page 181.
Leaving Green River station, we cross the river and follow
along its western bank, in places through heavy cuttings almo'st
over the river, affording a fine view of the frowning cliffs on the
opposite side.
"Twenty miles to the northeast stands in plain view a noted
landmark—"Pilot Butte"— in isolated loneliness.
On we go, twisting around the side of a ridge to find a good
crossing place; presently it is reached and we descend to the valley
of Black's Fork, and soon reach Bryan [13 miles], a side-track of
little importance at present. We say at present, for at one time
3,000 people called this their abiding place. It was in November,
1868, when the exodus commenced, the same as at Benton the
month before.
Eight miles further Marston, another side-track, is left behind,
and ahead is
Granger—[Pop., 50; elevation, 6,279 feet; from Cheyenne, 360 miles; Og-
den, 156 miles; Huntington, 540 miles].—This place in a period of 40
years, has been at times a noted and busy one. A Mr. Granger
fathered the ranch for over 20 years. At first it was a Mormon
trading post with both Indians and pilgrims. It being situated at
the junction of the South Pass and Bitter creek wagon roads from
the east to Salt Lake via Fort Bridger, where good feed and water
could be had, it became a general lying over and resting point for
emigrants and freighters. When the overland stages were put on
the route it became more of a rendezvous than ever. Then came
Jack Casement with his minions November, 1868, and laid the last
seven and a half miles of railroad track, before reaching this sta-
tion, in one day—between sun and sun. Later the building of
the Oregon branch gave the place another "boom," but when that
line was finished Philbrick's goats arrived, and all glory soon
departed.
To the south rise in plain view the Uintah mountains, fully 100
miles away. Their dark sides indicate forests of timber, while on
their summit the snow ever rests. The valley of the Beaver lies
at the northern base of the range, is settled, and is one of the most
productive sections of the territory. Corn, potatoes, vegetables
and small grain grow and yield abundantly. Jim Bridger and
other trappers of the American Fur Co. made this valley their
headquarters as early as 1825.
Leaving Granger Ham's Fork is crossed, up which runs the
Oregon Short Line branch, as before stated.
Chureh Buttes—[ten miles].—Has some notoriety for moss
agates. These beautiful stones are along the line of the railroad
from Green River to Piedmont; in some places they are very
plentiful.
A few miles before reaching this place, by looking away to the
left—ten miles—can be seen the God-father of this station. It is
the most conspicuous in a long range of sandstone bluffs, of pecu-



YOUNG MORMON BISHOPS, F.TC.
Milliard—[five miles]—once a prosperous and busy place, from
the immense quantities of lumber, ties, telegraph poles, wood,
etc., floated down in a V flume from the pineries of the Uintah
mountains from 20 to 35 miles distant, southward, and the
great quantities of charcoal burned and shipped to the smelters
in Salt Lake valley from here, is now almost-deserted, and the
question naturally arises: Why this desolation or suspended
action? Maybe the law against cutting timber, etc., on govern-
ment lands may have something to do with it.


COOPER—AND HIS VIGILANTES. 141
Bear R1ver C1ty R1ot—Three miles from Hilliard we pass
the site of the once famous and then infamous Bear River City.
It is situated in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, where the
old wagon road comes down from the north of Quaking Aspen.
The town was laid out in October, 1868, in advance of the rail-
road, but where the terminal point would probably be during the
following winter.
The route of the railroad was lined with graders, contractors
and teamsters, who all earned and had a large amount of money.
At this point the roughs and gamblers who had been driven
from point to point westward by the vigilantes, made a stand, con-
gregating in large numbers. They swore that they would be driven
no further; that here they would stay and fight it out to the bitter
end. The town contained about 1,000 law-abiding people, and
when the roughs felt that trouble was coming on them, they with-
drew to the hills and organized for a raid on the town. Meanwhile
some of the roughs remained in the town, and among them were
three noted garroters who had added to their long list of crimes
that of several murders. The citizens arose, seized and hung
them. In this act they were sustained by all law-abiding people,
also by the Index, a paper which had followed the road, and was
then published here. This hastened the conflict and on the 19th
of November, 1868, the roughs attacked the town in force, burned
the jail, taking from thence a number of their kind who were con-
fined there, and shooting down a citizen—a Mr. Stokes—who was
sent to them by the citizens as a mediator. They next sacked the
office and destroyed the materials of the Frontier Index, which
was situated in a building close to the railroad on the south side.
Elated with their success, the mob, numbering about 300 well-
armed desperadoes, marched over to the north side, up the main
street, and made an attack on the bank and store belonging to one of
the leading merchants, Mr. James B. Cooper, now of the firm of
Cooper & McNeil, of San Francisco. Here they were met with a
volley from Winchester rifles in the hands of brave and deter-
mined citizens who had collected in the store. The mob was
thrown into confusion, and fled down the street pursued by the
citizens, about 30 in number. The first volley and the running
fight left 32 of the desperadoes dead on the street. The number
of wounded was over 100; the bodies of many were afterwards
found in the gulches and among the rocks, where they had
crawled away and died. From this time the roughs abandoned
the city.
The town declined as soon as the road was built past it, and
now there is nothing left to mark the place except a few old
chimneys, broken bottles and scattered oyster cans.
Passsing on, the bluffs are high and broken, coming close to the
road, leaving but a narrow valley until we reach
Bear R1ver—A rapid stream coming down from the south,
from its source in the Uintah mountains; has many tributaries,
which abound in very fine trout, and quite a business is carried on
in catching and salting them for market. The river runs almost
due north to Bear lake, from which it takes its name. The lake is
about 15 miles long by five miles wide, full of trout and other fish,
and surrounded by many little Mormon settlements. From the
northern end of the lake the river runs to the north, curving to


142 WYOMING—UTAH—ECHO CANON.
the west and then to the south, and empties into Great Salt Lake,
near Corinne, Utah. The course of the river can best be understood
when we say that it resembles the letter U in shape. From where
it rises it runs due north to latitude 42 deg. 30 min., then suddenly
turning it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 43 min., before it finds the
lake. Within this bend lies the Wasatch mountains, a spur of the
Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold but narrow range.
The entire region is wild and picturesque, and would well repay
the tourist for the time spent in visiting it.
It may be well to bear in mind that the next stop is a meal
station.
Ev&nston—[Pop., 3,000; elevation, 6,759 feet; from Cheyenne, 439 miles,
Ogden, 77 miles],—Is the seat of Uintah county and is situated just
half-way between the Missouri river and the Pacific ocean —
Omaha and San Franciso—957 miles to either. The Territorial
Asylum for Insane was completed here January 1, 1888, at a cost
of $45,000, furnished complete. The citizens of Evanston are
mostly engaged in coal mining, coke burning, lumbering and
stock-raising. The railroad company have a large round-house,
extensive machine shops for repairs, large freight buildings and
one of the largest station hotels on the system.
Beside the white population there are nearly 1,000 Chinese in
Evanston and the vicinity, mostly at the coal mines at Alma, sit-
uated just around the point of the mountain to the north, four
and a half miles away. These mines are very extensive, easily
worked, yielding coal of good quality, and employ about 1,000
men. From 100 to 150 car loads are shipped from Alma per day
to towns on the line of the Southern Pacific railroad in Nevada
and California, beside a large amount consumed by both the Union
and Southern companies. - From the main track about one mile
north of Evanston, a branch track is laid to the mines.
Connect1ons—Mail stage: North daily, Alma, four miles; Red Canon, two
miles; Woodruff, 12 m1les; Randolph, 12 miles; Laketown, 15 miles;
Meadowv1lle, four miles; Garden C1ty, eight miles; F1sh Haven, eight
miles; St. Charles, five miles; Bloom1ngton, seven miles; Par1s, two miles;
Ov1d, four miles; Liberty, four miles, and Montpel1er, ten miles.
Leaving Evanston, we leave Bear river to the right and direct
our course due west, passing Wasatch [n miles], and a sign-board
a short distance beyond reading, "Wyoming,"—"Utah," indicating
the dividing line between these territories.
Being now on the Wasatch mountains in the sacred land of
Zion, a towering elevation directly in front bars our vision and
apparently our way. Our engineer—with an eye to the future—
noted the position in a moment; and suddenly grasping the situa-
tion peculiar to the land, sent forth a ringing shout of mingled
agony and defiance. Like many other efforts of the kind, a com-
promise resulted. The tunnel is 770 feet in length, cut through
hard, red clay and sandstone, and when daylight once again
appears, we are at the head and looking down the far-famed
Echo Canon—Here, too, we could an ancient tale unfold; but
why? The divine command, "Let the dead bury the dead," was
out first rule laid down in formulating the plan of this book. New
life! new blood! new everything!—except "new wine in old bot-
tles." Yet withal there are some "chestnuts" that it is quite
fashionable to clink—taking the last illustration for a text.
The law cannot make a person moral, but if immoral, very uncomfortable.


WONDERFUL ECHO CANON.
143
At the head of Echo the rim or outer edge of the table lands
seems to give way at once and pitch headlong away, beyond our
view. The little streams which make out from these table lands,
each seems to cut its way through the rim and drop out of sight.
Down glides our train; the grade is steep—no steam required
now. Castle Rock [eight miles] is passed and a long line of
sandstone bluffs appears upon the right-hand side. These bluffs
bear the general name of "Castle Rocks," and in places are worn
and torn away until in the distance they may have the appearance
of the old feudal castles so often spoken of, but so seldom seen by
modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the canon
on the north side, their massive jaggy fronts towering from 500 to
1,000 feet above our way.
Our engine does not creep along as though mistrustful of its
powers, but with a snort and roar ph1nges down the defile, wliich
momentarily increases to a gorge, only to become in a short dis-
tance a grand and awful chasm.
While sight-seeing Emory [seven miles] is passed, and while the
south side presents little attractions—only sloping grass-cov-
ered hillsides—the cliffs to the north seem to rise still higher.
Solid walls, broken walls, walls of sandstone, walls of granite and
walls of conglomerate formation, are all represented. One must
be on the alert to see a mo1ety of the most beautiful views, and as
our train never seems to run as fast as when 'we desire a slower
pace, these glancing views will needs be stored away and treasured
in the mind for future reference. Steamboat rock—named for a
noble prow which nearly overhangs our train, is a prominent feat-
ure, five miles below Emory. Rain, wind and time have combined
to destroy the massive walls of Echo, but in vain. Centuries have
come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to
its center, when Echo and Weber canons sprung into existence—
twin children, whose birth was heralded by throes such as the
earth may never feel again, and still the mighty walls of Echo
remain, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers—the
elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from
the walls; still small cedars, shrubs and delicate vines and flowers
adorn the countless nooks and crevices; still the pillar, column,
dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and
weird beauty to entrance the traveler and fill his mind with won-
der and awe.
On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering
column and rugged battlement, passing lateral canons which cut
the walls from crest to base in awful chasms, shooting over Dridges
and flying past and under the overhanging walls, and finally
round the canon wall to the northward, within three short spans-
length of the noted Pulp1t Rock (on the top of which it is said
Brigham Young preached his first sermon in Utah) and stop at
EellO City—[Pop., 200; from Omaha, 994 miles; Ogdeu, 38 miles; Park
City, 28 miles; elevation, 5,471 feet].—The town is situated on the eastern
bank of Weber river, half a mile below the mouth of Echo, in a
little valley half a mile in width. Beyond the Weber rise the seat-
ing tree, shrub and g^ass-covered slopes of the Wasatch mountains,
nearly 2,000 feet from the river bed; to the east rise cliffs, sheer 1,000
feet
.
This is not a very progressive place. Excepting a few gardens,
stock-raising is the only occupation of the people. Some there



are who go fishing but the fine trout are so abundant in all the
streams, and the home consumption so small, from being sport it
becomes labor to clean the fish so that industry flags.
CONNECTIONS-
-I!y rail: The Echo & Park C1ty branch of Union Pacific.
It's wonderful how brave some people are when they arel/ar from danger.
We lhave seen a number of cases where some of this class in the "sixties" on
leaving the river to cross the plains, fairly yearned to meet an Indian—wanted
half a dozen for breakfast, a cloven for dinner, and a score or more for supper,
lint when the Indian country was reached and danger was imminent, always
hu n led cover, and those of little talk did all the effective fighting.


THE LARGEST
AND MOST COMPLETE
Printing House
IN THE WEST.
100,000 Square Feet of Floors.
12 Dlstlnct Departments.
Fine Job Printing, one color to ten.
Lithographing, one color to fifteen.
Steel and Copper Plate Engraving.
Photo-Engraving, plain and half tone.
Map Making.
Railroad and Ticket Printing.
Binding.
Blank Book Manufacturing.
Book Printing and Publishing.
Electrotyping.
Designing, for all purposes.
Stationery. ___.
THE
Woodward 1 Tiernan
^Printing Co.,
309 to 319 North Third St.,
ST. LOUIS, MO.


No. 4.
MULTONOMHH FRLLS.
SEE PAGE 248.


ROOSTER ROCK.
SEE PAGE 248.


ſaen
CIE. Laemº:Ex:El 4–----
Alrivnòlsaß）， Hlºo enjawaºna-oloha ºg
| ±0^5\ºl. HTW H_
9.NII.
ſaeuaeſiáſ?3.lī£Td
ºſ)buļļupſ"ºſº!!！}"""""|}·


COAL AND SILVER.
145
TO THE
RICHEST MINING CAMP IN UTAH.
Side Tour, No. 6—From Echo C1ty to Coalv1lle, W1n-
sh1p and Park C1ty, v1a Echo and Park C1ty branch of the
Un1on Pac1f1c ra1lway.
There are two passenger trains a day each way, at 7:50 a. m.,
and 7:35 p. m. The direction is south up the Weber river. The
first station is
Coalville—[Pop., 1,500; from Echo, five miles; elevation, 5,583 feet].
It is the seat of Summit county, settled by the Mormons in 1859, and
incorporated in 1887. It has a number of churches and schools,
stores of different kinds, grist-mill, theatre and many ueat private
residences. The Coalville house is the principal hotel.
The chief industries are coal mining and stock-raising, yet
every foot of the limited supply of agricultural land along the
Weber river is utilized, producing bounteously of every seed
put in the ground.
Just to the east of the town are located extensive deposits of
coal, large quantities of which are mined and shipped daily.
Lr
Coalville is on the old Mormon trail from the Missouri river.
We have noted the route up to Green River City. From that place
it crosses onto and follows up Black's Fork to Fort Bridger,
thence close to the north of Aspen mountain, crossing Bear river,
ten miles east of Evanston, to Echo canon, down the canon to the
Weber river, thence via Coalville, Wiuship and Parley's park to
Salt Lake City.
WlllKllip—[Pop., 500; from Coalville, seven miles; elevation, 5,856 feet].
Is a Mormon village of agriculturists and stock-raisers, situated
at the junction of Silver creek and Weber river. Wheat, oats,
hay and all kinds of vegetables are grown for market; also fruit of
many varieties.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast six times a week to Rock1'ort, four
miles; Pecoa, four miles; Oakley, three miles; and Kamas, five miles.
The valley of Weber river, which is from a half to a mile in
in width, is settled, fenced and cultivated, the soil being very
quick and productive. —.
Turning to the right up Silver creek the grade averages 76 feet
to the mile for 15 miles, to the end of the road. Settlers are
scattered all along the road wherever there is a patch of land to
cultivate and water for irrigating it—as water controls the agricul-
tural situation in this country—with water, big crop ! no water, no
crop!
Park Citj'—[Pop., 3,500; from Wiuship, 15 miles; Salt Lake City via
Ogden, 103miles;elevation, 7,006feet].—Is the principal mining, as well
as the only Gentile city in Utah. Situated well up against the
mountains at the head of Silver creek, just at the junction of Em-
pire, Ontario and Whiteside gulches, and is exclusively a mining
city, where mines are worked and not "salted" for sale. There
are two stamp-mills—the Ontario 40, and the Daley of 30 stamps,
chloridizing; the Crescent mill is working by the ''Russell pro-
cess;" one sampling, and one concehtratihg-mill and smelter.


146 PARLEY'S PARK—WEBER CANON.
The ore runs silver and lead, with a small per cent. of gold.
This mining district since its discovery has produced $30,000,-
000, and the different mining companies have paid in dividends
$14,000,000.
F1gures Talk !— The plant of the Ontario mine cost $2,570,-
000. The company employs over 400 hands. Total out-put up to
1888, $23,160,000. Paid in dividends, $8,825,000. The Daly Mining
Co., from 1885 to 1888, extracted $2,100,000, and paid in divi-
dends, $375,000.
Many of the business blocks and buildings are of stone and
brick—substantial structures; churches and schools are numerous
and*well attended, as, be it remembered, the average miner may
be uneducated and rough, but he is honest and frank, and always
pays liberally for the education of his children, and the support of
his church. Stores of various kinds are here, and a bank, as well
as hotels and newspapers. The Park City is the principal hotel,
and the Park City Record the paper to subscribe for and read, if
you want all the news from this the most progressive mining camp
in the western country.
Parley Park—in the extreme southern end of which Park
City and the mines are situated, is one of the most beautiful in
Utah, and first settled by the Mormons. It is very fertile, produc-
ing fine crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables. The streams
are alive with fine mountain trout, and game of many varieties
inhabit the adjoining mountains. These and the comfortable hotel
accommodations in the park at convenient points make it one of
those pleasant places where one loves to linger, regrets to leave,
and longs to visit again.
Connect1ons—Mail stage: Southeast sixtimesa week to Heber, 13 miles;
thence west three times a week to M1dway, four miles; thence south to
Charleston, four miles; and Wellsburgh, seven miles.
Returning to Echo City, we continue our route westward.
WEBER R1ver—Rises in the Wasatch mountains about 70 miles
south of Echo, and empties into Salt lake just below Ogden.
The valley above Echo is very fertile and thickly settled, as hereto-
fore noted. The settlers are all Mormons, and all, except at Coal-
ville, engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pur-
suits; those at Coalville are principally miners, although all the
available lands in the neighborhood- are under cultivation. Every
acre of the lower Weber of any value is owned and occupied by
those who are utilizing it to the best of their ability.
WEBER Canon is one of the remarkable features of the road.
For 35 miles, excepting now and then a little valley a few miles in
width, the river rushes foaming along, between two massive moun-
tain walls. Now the torrent plunges over some mighty rock which
has fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 feet above; anon, it whirls
around in frantic struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence
springing forward over a short, smooth rapid, only to repeat the
plunge again and again, until it breaks forth into the plains,
whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted with
its wild journey through the canon.
Echo or telephone hotels are large rooms divided into small ones by paper or
muslin partitions, in which "peek-holes" are numerous, and every loud word
or noise is echoed or telephoned throughout the building.


INTERESTING VIEWS.
147

WITCHES ROCKS—OR DEVILS CLUB.
Leaving Echo but a short distance, these peculiar, red, yellow
and gray conglomerates—called "Witches' Rocks"—stand forth in
some prominence, on the side of the cliff, to the right.

One Thousand-M1le Tree—Entering the first narrows of the
canon the 1,000-mile tree is passed—a thrifty, branching pine—
bearing on its trunk a sign-board that tells the western-bound


148 WEBER CANON VIEWS.
traveler that he has passed over 1,000 miles of railway from Omaha.
This living milestone of nature's planting has long marked this
place; long before the hardy Mormon passed down this wild gorge;
long before the great trans-continental railroad was ever thought
of, it stood a lonely sentinel, when all around was desolation—
when the lurking savage and wild beast claimed supremacy, and
each in turn reposed in the shade of its waving arms. How
changed the scene! The ceaseless bustle of an active, progressive
age, the hum of labor, the roar and rush of the passing locomotive,
has usurped the old quiet, and henceforward the Lone Tree will be,
not a guide to the gloomy past, but an index of the coming great-
ness of a regenerated country.
Just below this tree the cars cross a trestle bridge to the left
bank of the Weber, thence down but a short distance, before they
cross over another trestle to the right-hand side, and then, almost
opposite the bridge, on the side of the mountain to the left, can be
seen the
Dev1l's Smde, or serrated rocks. This slide is composed of
two ridges of granite rock, reaching from the river nearly to the
summit of a sloping, grass-clad mountain. They are from 50 to
200 feet high, narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though forced
out of the mountain side. The two ridges run parallel with each
other—about ten feet apart, the space between being covered with
grass, wild flowers and climbing vines. (See next page.)
Grand V1ews—Rushing sw1ftly along past Croydon [nine
miles] we soon lose sight of these rocks and behold others more
grand, of different shapes and massive proportions. The mountains
seem to have been dove-tailed together and then torn rudely asunder,
leaving the rough promontories and rugged chasms as so many ob-
stacles to bar out progress; and so they would but for engineering
skill and Mormon brawn. They in January, 1869, drove tunnels
through their ribs from side to side and bridged the chasms high
above the flood; and so we pass as safely through as though these
obstructions had not been, and come to light again; and then the
beautiful little "Round valley," so-named, we cross to confront
another gorge, and then once again another valley—this the larg-
est of them all, in which is Morgan City—but down on the bills as
Wel>Cr—[Pop., 1,200; from Echo, 16 miles; Ogden, 24 miles; elevation,
5,080 feetl—With barely a dozen exceptions it is strictly a Mormon
town with a Z. C. M. I. branch and several stores and shops.
Here irrigation is depended upon to raise all kinds of crops, and
every acre of agricultural land is utilized to the limit of the water
supply. Crops of grain and vegetables of all kinds grow to per-
fection and yield abundantly. Fruit of many varieties as well as
berries are raised in large quantities. Hay, alfalfa and tame grasses
also give large yields per acre, and some thousand tons or more
are baled and shipped from this place, much of which goes east
along the road for 300 miles.
Grass grows all the way to the summit of nearly all the mount-
ains in this vicinity and on them, affording the best of grazing the
year around—as the winter snow is blown off by the wind from the
grassy exposures into the gulches, leaving bare usually sufficientr
for all winter needs.
The same may be said of all the mountain portions of the west-
ern country at the same altitude.



Proceeding—Peterson [ten miles], a side-track, is in the midst of
the canon, down which whirls our train between towering mount-
ains into a dark, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the whistle shrieks
—the echo resounding from crag to crag in thunder tones—as we
approach and pass through the wild scenery of the


150 HIS GATE—OGDEN, UTAH.
Devil's Gate—On rattles our train, through a slash in the
mountains, anon on a bridge far above the seething whirl of waters,
where massive frowning rocks rear their crests far up toward the
black and threatening clouds which hover over this witches'
cauldron. With bated breath we gaze on this wild scene, and
vainly try to analyze our feelings, in which awe, wonder and ad-
miration are blended. We have no time for thought as to how or
when this mighty work was accomplished, no time nor inclination
to compare the work of nature with the puny work beneath us, but
onward with quickened speed, down the right hand bank of the
stream; on between these massive piles, worn and seamed in their
ceaseless struggles against the destroying hand of time; on to where
yon opening of light marks the open country; on past towering
mountain and toppling rocks, until we catch a view of the broad
sun-lit plains; and from the last and blackest of the buttresses which
guard the entrance into Weber, we emerge to light and beauty, to
catch the first view of the Great Salt lake—to behold broad plains
and well cultivated fields which stretch their lines of waving green
and golden shades beyond.
Uintah Station—[Pop., 600; from Devil's Gate, five miles; Ogden, six
miles; elevation, 4,497 feet].—We have passed through the mountains
and are fairly in the Great Salt lake basin. In the last 58 miles,
we have dropped down 2,314 feet.
This is an agricultural community and all belongs to the Mor-
mon Church.
It is a historical fact that near this station, in 1862, was the
scene of the notorious Morrisite massacre.
From Uintah we follow the river through a country dotted here
and there with fertile and well tilled farms. But as we are Hearing
the end of the journey over the Union Pacific railway, it becomes
necessary for all to gather up their valuables against the time when
the notice will be given to "Changs Cars!"
Ogden Station—[Elevation, 4,301 feet].
J8@"Passengers arriving who desire to visit Salt Lake City
(distance, 36 miles) will usually find a train in waiting at the depot.
It will leave as soon as mails, express and baggage can be trans-
ferred—about 30 minutes.
figyAll trains arrive and depart from the west side of the new
Union depot.
JgfejT'The trains of the Southern are usually made up and wait-
ing when the trains of the Union arrive. It then usually requires
about one hour to make all necessary transfers before starting—
but it's well to see to procuring sleeping car and other tickets, if
required, and the transfer of your hand baggage and getting located
as soon as convenient.
8@"The cars of the Utah & Northern branch of the Union
Pacific system arrive and depart from the Union depot.
B@?"Passengers desirous of stopping over at Ogden can take a
"buss" for the hotels, or a street car just at the eastern platform of
the depot.
ItSf^Passeugers who have through tickets in sleeping cars will
occupy the same numbers in the Southern as they had in the
Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need
give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place—
to the end of the U. P. road—will need to see that it is re-checked.


CHANGE CARS. 151
The old wooden station building, so long felt to be a disgrace by
the citizens of Ogden, and an inconvenience to the traveling
public, has finally been abandoned, and a large Union depot
erected about 1,000 feet to the eastward. It is built of stone and
is provided with all the modern conveniences. It contains the
offices of the division superintendent and general agents of the
Union and Southern Pacific systems, and the ticket, baggage, express
and telegraph offices; a dining-room, lunch counter, bar, news-stand
and general waiting-rooms. A portion of the second floor 1s occu-
pied as a hotel, and is well furnished and well conducted. The
trains of all roads entering Ogden arrive and depart from this depot.
Ogden City—[Pop., 15,000:—Is the seat of Weber county, situ-
ated one mile east of the depot, on the Ogden river, at the western
base of the Wasatch mountains. It is amply provided with all
needful public buildings, and many fine brick and stone business
blocks. Stores, shops and small manufactories are here, as well as
two large flour-mills and the Grand opera house, seating 1,500.
Ogden has a Board of Trade association composed of the prin-
cipal business men, who are putting forth commendable efforts to
advertise the business, climate, and tourist attractions of their
"junction city."
There are a number of small hotels, but the Reed is the
principal hotel in the city, as the Standard, Argus and Com-
mercial, daily and weekly, are the principal newspapers. It
has electric street cars and telephone connection with Salt
Lake City.
The waters of the Ogden river are conducted through the streets
and used in the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes; in con-
sequence, the city is in the midst of one great flower garden and a
forest of fruit and shade trees. In the gardens are fruit trees of all
kinds which bear abundantly, and in the fields are raised immense
crops of grain, hay and vegetables.
Ogden canon is one of the attractions in this vicinity. The
scenery is grand and interesting. In places the granite walls rise
on each side 1,500 feet, and for a considerable distance not more
than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the moun-
tains behind the town, is a lovely little valley called "the Basin,"
watered by mountain streams and covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass.
Six miles northwest of Ogden, near the railroad, is one of the
most valuable hot sulphur springs that we know of in the western
country. A variety of bath accommodations and a good hotel are
at the spring.
B®°The continuation of our western tour from Ogden will be
found on page 176.
flSTCROFUTT'S Tours—No. 2, continues westward, via the
Central Pacific railroad—to Sacramento, San Francisco, Los
Angeles, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Ensenada—
Lower California—with Side Tours to Yosemite valley, Big
Trees, The Geysers, San Jose, Santa Barbara, Seal Rocks, Monterey,
Santa Cruz, Coloma—where the first gold discovery was made—to
Shasta, over the Siskiyous, to Portland and all over the state
of California.


152
UTAH TERRITORY—RESOURCES.

rial! Territory—Called by the Mormons, the "Land of
Zion." We have already traveled over 100 miles in this territory,
where strange stories are the gossip and stranger still the state of
facts, and it may be well to now take a hasty glance at its extent
and resources.
Utah extends from the 87th to the 42d parallel of north latitude
and from the 109th to the 114th degree of west longitude, contain-
ing a superf1cial area of about 65,000square miles, with a popula-
tion, according to the census of 1890, of 207,905 (including Indians
and Chinese), with an assessed valuation of J51,917,312.
This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren
country. At present most of the land under cultivation and the
meadow lands are along the base of the mountains, around the
lakes and in the mountain valleys and are very productive when
irrigated—grains, fruit and vegetables maturing readily and yield-
ing large returns—the aridity of the climate precluding the grow-
ing of crops by any other means.
Farm Products—Gov. West in his report to the Interior
department for 1888, estimates "our productions for the season,


UTAH—RESOURCES. 153
from farm, garden and orchard" as follows, in bushels: Wheat,
3,000,000; oats, 1,500,000; barley, 750,000; rye, 50,000; corn, 750,-
000; plums, 50,000; peaches (a short crop), 150,000; pears, 75,000;
apples (surplus), 200,000; Lucerne hay, 500,000 tons; Lucerne seed,
500,000 pounds; potatoes, 60,(XX),000 pounds.
M1nerals—The total value of gold, silver, copper and lead
mined in Utah from 1871 to 1888 was $133,442,310, coin standard.
The principal mines are in Summit, Beaver, Salt Lake, Tooele and
Washington counties. Total average output of ore, 150,000 tons a
year; the greater portion of which is treated at the mills, smelters
and other works in the territory and the balance shipped to dis-
tant markets.
Coal—The coal-measures in the territory are of enormous
extent, are all bituminous and of good quality. There is coal in
every county, but the bulk now mined is in the Weber and Pleasant
valley districts, which are producing about 220,000 tons annually.
Iron—This valuable mineral exists in almost unlimited quan-
tities in Washington, Iron, Summit and Weber counties.
Salt—"Saved by a pinch of salt" is an ancient chestnut.
The "pinch" could be very large in Utah, as salt is abundant in
San Pete and Sevier valleys, can be shoveled up in its crude state
on the shores of Salt lake and in the southern part of the terri-
tory is found by the mountains in a remarkably transparent and
pure state.
Besides the above, copper, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, brimstone,
saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago, roofing slate, granite of various tex-
. ture and color; marble, variegated and plain; soda, fire-clay, red
and white sandstone, limestone and kindred formations exist to an
almost unlimited extent.
L1ve Stock—Cattle, horses and sheep—particularly the latter—
are raised in large numbers in all parts of the territory.
T1mber—Is not very plentiful at accessible points, being mostly
in the mountain canons and ravines, far away from the present
lines of travel.
Fru1t—Of many varieties and in great quantities is raised
successfully in different parts of the territory. In the southern
counties are grown all the semi-tropical and many ot the tropical
fruits, while berries are abundant everywhere.
Cl1mate—The summers are warm and dry with only an occa-
sional shower; the winters are mild and open. The fall of snow
is light in the valley and heavy in the mountains, the melting of
which affords ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and valleys.
The air is very generally pure and clear, fogs and tornadoes are
unknown, and the "blizzards" are luxuries never experienced
here.
SETTLEMENT—Utah was first settled by whites in 1847. On
the 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mormon emigration,
numbering 143 men, entered Salt Lake valley; five days later 150
more men arrived under Capt. Brown, and on July 31st Great
Salt Lake City was laid out.
At that time the country belonged to the Republic of Mexico,
but by the treaty of Gaudaloupe Hidalgo, in 1848, it was ceded to
the United States.
Crater Lake country should be set aside by Congress as a national park. See
description in Tours No. 2.


154 GREAT SALT LAKE.
Labor—Supply and wages. Here we again quote Gov. West:
"The past year has been an active and busy one throughout the territory.
Extensive building has been going on in Salt Lake and Ogden cities, while 1n
the other cities and towns healthy growth and improvements are marked.
Labor has been in demand and fully employed, commanding wages as follows:
Carpenters, per day, $3.50; in strong demand; could employ more.
Joiners, per day, $3.50 to $4.50; in strong demand; could employ more.
Wood working machinists, per day, $3.50; scarce.
Wood turners, per day, $3.50; scarce.
Steam fitters and plumbers, per day, $4.00 to $4.50; scarce.
Masons and bricklayers, per day, $4.00 to $4.50; stiff, fully employed in good
weather.
Engineers (stationary), per day, $3.00.
Stonecutters, per day, $4.00 to $4.50; in good demand.
Blacksmiths and shoers, in town, per day, $3.00 to $3.50.
Blacksmiths and shoers, in camp, $4.00; 1n good supply, no surplus.
Plasterers, per day, $3.00 to $3,50; fully employed.
Slaughterers, per month, $60 to $90; all employed, no surplus.
Tailors, per week, $15 to $20; scarce.
Bakers, per month, $45 to $50.
Miners, per day, $3.50 to $4.00; well employed.
Laborers, per day, $1.75 to $2.00; fully employed.
Masons' tenders, per day, $2.00; fully employed.
Farm hands, per month, $30, with board; in good demand.
Cattle and sheep herders, per month, $30 to $40, with board; in good demand-
Cigar makers, per week, $20 to $35.
Pa1nters, per day, $3.00 to $4.00; frequently s
We would suggest, however, to those coming to Utah seeking
employment to bring along a little money, so in case no satisfac-
tory employment is readily found in the valley towns they can be
able to pay their way into the mining regions. And above all, be
honest, sober, industrious and mind your own business and you
cannot fail of success.
"All aboard for Salt Lake City!" is now the command. The
tn in stands beside the one we arrived upon, once branded
"Utah Central Ra1lway." It is the pioneer local road of
Utah; May 17th, 1869, just one week after the driving of the last
spike uniting the tracks of the Union and Central Pacific railroads
at Promontory, ground was broken at Ogden by President Brigham
Young, assisted by the leaders of the Mormon Church. The road
was pushed rapidly to completion, and for many years after-
wards was accounted to be the best paying railroad ever built.
Leaving the depot the engineer runs ahead a piece, then backs
up to half face and stands looking at the Weber river bridge.
The conductor surveys the vantage of the field and becoming sat-
isfied the coast is clear, shouts to the engineer, "let-er-go, Bishop!"
and away we do go over the bridge through a deep cut in the river
bluff, and whirl around to the left upon the side of a sloping ex-
panse of prairie rising gradually to the eastward from the waters of
Great Salt Lake—The mysterious dead sea of America. It
is now on our right ten miles away; but in the next 30 miles our
road will gradually approach to within half a mile of its briny
waters. There it is spread out, glittering in the sunlight like a
field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it stretches away placid
and motionless, as though no life had ever caused a vibration of
its currents or given one restless impulse to its briny bosom.
There are a number of islands in the lake; the largest is Antelope
(15 miles long and two miles wide), directly in Iront. The smaller
are Carrington, Egg, Sheep's, Hot and Stansbury. On Antelope
island are a number of springs of fresh water, and many trees and an
abundance of shrubs and grass.
On some of the islands shrubs and grasses grow, but no springs
of water have been found.


DEAD SEA OP AMERICA. 155
Salt lake is 00 miles in length by 30 miles in width, and is not
known to have any outlet, yet the Jordan, Weber, Ogden and Bear
rivers empty into it a large volume of water, besides a score or
more of smaller streams. Some geologists claim that evaporation
absorbs the vast volume, but it is a noticeable fact—one in the
writer's memory—and one worthy of serious consideration, that
since the settlements have been made in the territory and the
bosom of the earth has been turned by the plow, rendering the
barren wastes blooming and productive, the waters of the lake
have risen steadily, and now are over four feet higher than they
were 20 years ago. Fences which once enclosed fine meadow land
on the south side of the lake in 1868, are just now peering above
the flood, marking its steady encroachment on the fertile bottom
lands, and pointing to the evident fate of the farms adjoining.
The grand old mountains, particularly west from Ogden, bear
unmistakable evidence of the water's presence far up their rocky
sides. At what period of time the floods reached that altitude, or
whether those mountains were lifted from their present level of the
lake by volcanic action and carried these water-lines with them
are questions no one can answer. [The story related of old Jim
Bridger, the trapper who lived in this western country since 1820
until his death ten years ago, may be related here.] For a number
of years before his death "Jim" lived at Fort Bridger and was
subjected to a great many "interviews" by the curious. When
questioned in regard to the changes that had taken place in the
country since he first visited it, he would say: "Do you see that
mountain there?" (one 500 feet high) "Well, sir, when I first came
here the place where it stands was a hole in the ground.'' Now
comes the query: Do the mountains grow or the waters recede?
There have been many analyses made of the waters of the
Great Salt lake, all of them agreeing that it is a solution consist-
ing of chloride of sodium or common salt, or sulphates of silver,
potash, alum and the chloride of magnesium. The following com-
parison of solid contents and specific gravity may be of interest:
Solid contents—per cent. Specific Gravity.
Great Salt Lake water 13.8 1.107
Dead Sea water 21.0 1.116
Ocean water 3.5 1.026
One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the
Great Salt lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn.,
gave the following results:
Solids—per cent.
Chloride of sodium 79-n I Sulphate of potassa 3.58
Chloride of magnesia 9-95 Sulphate of lime 0.57
Sulphate of soda 6.22 | Excess of chlorine 0.57
Total 100.00
Onward goes our train, while we have been making a study
of the lake, noting the highly cultivated farms on each side and
viewing the Wasatch mountains on the left, it has rattled along.
Kaysville, Farmington and Centreville.
These are all Mormon agricultural towns embowered in fruit
tre.es, as nearly every house in Utah is situated in the midst of an
orchard or garden.
These towns are provided with irrigating ditches, with water
from the mountain reservoirs, running through all the streets and
over all the grounds. Some of these streams are sufficiently large
to run saw and flouring-mills, the water first doing duty at the
mills and then in the fields.


VIEW IN SALT tAKE CITY.

Bountiful
—Is a pretty lit-
tle village near
the station of
Wood's Cros-
s1ng, and like
all Mormon
cities, towns and
hamlets is hid
away in a pro-
fusion of foliage.
The course of
our road from
Ogden to Salt
Lake City is al-
most due south,
while the Wa-
satch mountains
for 30 miles des-
cribe a huge
circle in the
middle to the
eastward. The
lower point of
this circle we are
fast approach-
ing, and will
reach it in about
two miles, just
at the point of
the mountains
ahead where the
steam is rising,
opposite a large
building on the
£ right—"Beck's
2: Hot Spring"
^ bath houses.
> Just under that
E huge rock boils
gj i up the spring;
<' it's hot, it's very
hot! There is
no failure of hot
water here the
year round.
The bath houses afford, to those who are so disposed, the
luxury of a hot bath at all seasons. Ensign Peak, the "Mount
of Prophecy," where the late prophet Brigham Young was wont
to wrestle with the Lord, rises directly from the spring to an
altitude of 1,200 feet above the valley. As we glide southward,
Hot Spring lake appears on the right, where the first view of
Salt Lake City is caught.
lif, Don't fool yourself by thinking that you are going west to find fools.


SAI.T I.AKE CITY—UTAH. 157
"What HoTg1,!" you ask? Well, there are a score of them here,
and all good in proportion to their charges. The principal hotels
are: Knutsford, Walker, Cullen, Continental, Metropolitan, Cliff,
Valley and Templeton. The charges grade downwards from $3
to $1.50 per day.
"Buss" lines—Two of them take passengers to and from the
depot and hotels for 25 cents each, passenger and baggage. Street
cars can be found just at the entrance of the depot, that run
past nearly all the hotels. Fare, five cents.
Salt LllkC City—[Pop., 44,843; elevation, 4,350 feet].—or "Zion,"
as the city is often called by the Mormon faithful, is one of the
most beautiful and pleasantly located of cities. It is situated at
the foot of a spur of the Wasatch mountains, the northern limits
extending on to the "bench" or upland which unites the plain
with the mountain.
The streets are 132 feet wide (including sidewalks 20 feet wide),
bordered with shade-trees and laid out at right angles. Along each
side of the street is a clear cold stream of water from the moun-
tain canons, which, with the numerous shade trees, fruit orchards
and gardens surrounding every residence, give the city an indescrib-
able air of coolness, comfort and repose.
Salt Lake City is the seat of Salt Lake county and the capital
of the territory, and is nine square miles in extent. It has 21
wards within its limits, and is the terminus of six railroads. It
contains some fine business blocks, hotels and pr1vate residences.
The Mormon Church, besides those who officiate at the taber-
nacle, has a bishop located in every ward of the city, who holds
ward meetings regularly. The other churches hold services in
14 places in the city. The Masons have five lodges in the
city; the Odd Fellows four; G. A. R. one; K. of P. three. A. O.
U. W. one. There is one opera house, one theater and one
museum. There are eight halls, four hospitals and three ceme-
teries. Of sampling and smelting works, seven; woolen-mills, one;
planing-mills, seven; flour-mills, five; tanneries, one; foundry and
machine works, seven; breweries, four, and 22 miscellaneous
manufactories.
There are fourteen banks and bankers, twenty hotels, four
daily and eight weekly newspapers, and a sugar factory.
Of general and special stores, shops, livery stables, restaurants,
saloons, etc., the city is well provided. Salt Lake City has an
energetic Board of Trade of 200 members, water works, an efficient
fire department, 50 miles of electric railroads, electric light, tele-
phone, etc., and, in fact, all the modern improvements of the age,
and is destined to be one of the great cities of the country, and
always the metropolis of the central Rocky Mountain region.
Here, as in Denver, is the well known jewelry firm of Joslin &
Park, one of the old landmarks of Salt Lake City. It was estab-
lished here when the present voter was in short clothes. The eye
is dazzled with the magnificent display of precious stones, native
gold jewelry, silverware and souvenirs of this interesting country.
In the wholesale jobbing line Salt Lake City has several estab-
lishments that would do credit to any city in the Union, particu-
larly the Z. C. M. I., as it is called for short—"Zion's Co-Operative
Mercantile Institution." They own and occupy a brick building
318 feet long and 53 feet wide, three stories and cellar.


168
MORMON TEMPOE—AND TABERNACLE.

CO-OKMTIVI

This "institution" is
owned and conducted by
the most wealthy men
belonging to the Mormon
Church. It has branches
in nearly every Mormon
city, town and village in
Utah, and besides its
wholesale department,
does an immense retail
trade. This establishment
manufactures or deals in
almostevery thing in every
line or branch of business.
What the Z. C. M. I have
not got you need not look
for in Utah.
The Temple is usually
about the first object of
interest that a traveler
mormon s1gn—common 1n 1870. looks for on arriving in
Salt Lake City. The dimensions of the foundations are 1864x99
feet. The site of the temple is in the center of the city on the
bench land, and the eastern half of what is known as "Temple
Block,"—the tabernacle and assembly building being on the
western half. (Seepage 1j6.)
The temple building is of white granite from little Cottonwood
canon; was commenced February 14, 1853, and the cost has been
not less than $10,000,000.
The Tabernacle is an immense building—the first object one
beholds on approaching the city. The building is oblong in shape,
having a length of 250 feet from east to west, by 150 feet in width.
The roof is supported by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which with
the spaces between used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the
wall. From these pillars or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken
arch, forming the largest self-sustaining roof on the continent,
with one notable exception, the Grand Union depot, New York.
The ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above the floor. In one end of
this egg-shaped building is the organ, the second in size in Amer-
ica. The tabernacle is used for church purposes as well as other
large gatherings of the people and will seat 8,000 people.
The residence of the late President Brigham Young and his
tomb, the tithing house, printing office and business offices con-
nected with the church, occupy one entire block, directly east from
temple block, in a very commanding position. This block and
also temple block are surrounded by walls of concrete, near five
feet thick and eight feet high, with large sliding gateways and
doors—should a moat and drawbridge be added, we would have
right here the counterpart of one of those feudal castles of ''ye
olden times"—on a small scale.
Fort Douglas—A military post, established October 26, 1862,
by Gen. E. P. Connor, 3d Regiment of CaliforniaVolunteer Infantry,
is situated on the "bench" or sloping upland at the base of moun-
tains, three miles distant, overlooking the city, and affords a fine


SAI/T LAKE CITY, UTAH. 159
view of the country to the west, south and northwest. Latitude,
40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec.; longitude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec.
It is the headquarters of the 16th Infantry, and garrisoned
by companies B, I), E, G, H and I, and by company B, of the
21st Infantry, and 5th artillery, light battery I).
Cap1tol Grounds—To the legislature of 1888—a most com-
manding and beautiful site of 20 acres, situated in the north-
ern part of Salt Lake City, was tendered to the territory by the city
upon which to erect capitol buildings. The site overlooks the city
and valley. The gift was accepted, a board of capitol commission-
ers appointed, and $25,000 appropriated for the improvement of
the grounds and for the procuring of plans and specifications of
the buildings to be erected; the plans and specifications to be sub-
mitted to the next legislative assembly.
Expos1t1on—The City of Salt Lake, in a communication made
to the legislative assembly in 1888, tendered to the territory ten
acres of ground within the city limits for exposition and fair
ground purposes. The generous gift was accepted by the territory
and $20,000 appropriated to erect permanent buildings. The board
of directors of the fair association, with commendable promptness
and energy, selected the ground, completed a building, and held
their first fair in the fall of the same year.
REAL ESTATE—in Utah, has never had a "boom," and prob-
ably never will; there can be nothing to make one. The growth
of the Utah cities has been gradual, and real estate has advanced
accordingly, and is now held firm. Salt Lake City is chiefly
supported by its agricultural and stock-raising industries and
the tourist travel. There are two kinds of industries that it will
pay to engage in. They will create untold wealth in Utah and
Salt Lake City. These industries are systematic mining, and
raising, shipping, drying and canning fruit.
The mines of Utah are many and contain inexhaustible
treasure-houses of wealth, and are only waiting for well directed
capital and brawny arms to pour forth their millions.
The valleys of Utah can produce fruit of all kinds fully equal
to any raised in California and Oregon. Then, allowing the
freight charges to be the same as from the coast, there is every
reason to expect a demand in the east for Utah fruit, which will
consume all that can be raised should the business be pushed to
the full capacity of the acreage adapted to that purpose in the
territory.
As we have shown in another place, Utah produced for 1888
of four kinds of fruits—apples, peaches, pears and plums—475,-
000 bushels. The yield can be extended to a million, and then
not overstock the markets.
I want to introduce the reader to C. E. Wantland, Agent for
the Union Pacific Railway lands in Utah and Wyoming, who has
for sale 3,000,000 acres of fine grazing lands at $1.00 to $2.00 per
acre, on ten years' time, which are to increase in value in a short
time. He also deals in Salt Lake City real estate, Utah farming,
ranch, manufacturing, coal and mining lands.
Newspapers—These mighty levers of civilization are rep-
resented in Salt Lake City by the Evening Ncivs, church organ;
Tribune, strong ««//-Mormon; the Times and the Herald, Demo-
cratic; each published daily and weekly.


160 SAI/T 1A.K8 CITY—VICINITY.
The Warm Spr1ngs, where are located the city baths, are one
mile north of the city, at the base of the mountains, and can be
reached by electric cars. The baths are patronized to some
extent by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their
medicinal qualities to remove their ailments.
They are also patronized largely by citizens and travelers.
Just west of the city limits are four additional hot springs.
The mineral and hot springs to be found in this vicinity, and
within a radius of forty miles of Salt Lake City, it is predicted,
will make this region, in conjunction with its well known
healthful climate, one of the great resorts of the western con-
tinent.
The following is an analysis of the water, as made by Dr.
Charles T. Jackson, of Boston •
Three fluid ounces of the water on evaporation to entire
dryness in a platina capsule, gave 8.25 grains of solid, dry,
saline matter.
Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280
Peroxide of iron 0.040 0.208
Lime 0.545 2-907
Chlor1ne 3.454 18.421
Soda 2.877 I5-348
Magnesia 0.370 2.073
Sulphuric acid 0.703 3.748
8.229 43-981
It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid gas and with
carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, having
valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The
usual temperature is 102 degrees Fahr.
Jordan R1ver—This stream which borders Salt Lake City
on the west, is the outlet of Utah Lake, which lies about 40 miles
south. It empties into the great Salt lake, about 12 miles north-
west of the city.
Garf1eld is an old bathing place on the lake that has in late
years been charged with new life — but wait! We are going out
there.
Lake Park—Is another resort situated on the east side of Salt
lake mid-way between Salt Lake City and Ogden. It is a child of
the D. & R. G. W. railway.
Climate—Ah, here we are! Everywhere we go we hear about
the climate, even at San Diego; but really the climate of Salt Lake
valley is lovely. We do not own a foot of soil on the face of the
earth; we have no interest in any city, town or village in the
whole world; we are a cosmopolitan, yet were we compelled to se-
lect one place before another to await the running out of the
sands of life, we should certainly take into consideration this land
of mothers-in-law.
The mean temperature is 74 degrees. The air is soft, pure,
sunny and balmy, conducive to man's physical well-being. One
authority says: "A climate not surpassed by that of any portion
of the country, where the rays of the summer sun are tempered by
the cool breezes from the canons, and the severity of the winter is
softened by the mountains which shelter the valleys."
Ivook out for Crofutt's new book.


UTAH SIDE TOURS.
161
Connect1ons—By Rail: Union Pacific System to the north, scuth and west, and
the Denver & Rio Grande Western from both north and south.
Bu1ld1ng—There are two railroads building—The Salt Lake &
Fort Douglas, and the Salt Lake & Eastern.
Prospect1ve Ra1lroads—There are quite a number of these:
from the east the Midland, the Atchison-Topeka, the Missouri
Pacific and the "Burlington" have all been named, and to the west
there are a number, among which is the Salt Lake & Los Angeles.
It is doubtful whether all these projected lines will be built.
Some will; but, as the old lady remarked, "my first love is good
enough for me."
t&g" Mormon Towns—On our tours through Utah, we shall
pass many Mormon cities, towns and villages—life is too short
to describe them all—and as the description of one would be
the same for all, with seldom an expection, a general description
must do. They are invariably embowered in the trees and located
on some stream near the base of the mountains where the water
can be turned into canals and ditches, to be conducted through the
streets, orchards, gardens aud fields for irrigating purposes, as no
attempt is ever made to raise anything in Utah without irrigation.
Every residence is in the midst of its fruit orchard and garden.
Many times an old rusty tumble-down cabin will be surrounded
by valuable orchards, gardens, vines and flowers, almost hiding it
from view. Each place has its meeting-house and schools,
presided over by a bishop, who exercises a general supervision
over their people's spiritual welfare. At nearly every place is
located a branch store of the great wholesale house in Salt Lake
City, the Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution, where all can
trade and sell their products and get credit when worthy. Saloons
are few in number, some towns there are none, in others only
beer is sold.
v. With few exceptions the people are all engaged in agriculture,
horticulture, lumbering and raising cattle, sheep and horses.
Horses, late years, are the only teams in use on the farms.
UTAH SIDE TOURS.
Side Tour IVo. 7—From Salt Lake C1ty to Provo, Pay-
son, Santaqu1n, Juab, M1lford and Fr1sco—w1th Detours
to L1ttle Cottonwood Canon, T1nt1c and S1lver C1ty.
We take the Central D1v1s1on, the same that we come down
upon from Ogden. It extends south 243 miles, which distance
will be covered by this tour. There are two passenger trains a day
to Juab, 105 miles, and one "mixed" train from that place to the
end of the road at Frisco, 130 miles further.
We take the morning train at 7:20 and proceed southward,
through the suburbs of the city, passing the Morgan smelter in
six miles and the Francklyn and GERMANIA within the next
three miles. These smelting works are running night and day,
turning out an immense amount of wealth in bullion bars.
Garden Spot—We are now in the midst of Jordan valley, the
garden spot of Utah. Here is the largest, finest and most pro-
ductive valley in the territory.


162
DETOUR—UTTLK COTTONWOOD CANON.
The country here shows what irrigation is doing for it; there
can be no finer lands and crops than are here found. In every
direction the land is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches,
conducting the essence of life to all vegetation beneath them, and
literally causing the land to flow with "milk and honey."
Bingliam Junetion—[From Salt :Uke City, 12 miles].—Two
branch lines of the D. & R. G. Western lead off from this junc-
tion, one to the east, the other to the west. The branch for the
west crosses the Jordan river and runs directly for the Oquirrh
range of mountains at Bingham canon, just at the mouth of which
is situated Bingham City, with a mining population of about 2,000.
The branch for the east makes directly for the mountains and
turns up L1ttle Cottonwood Canon eight and a half miles to
Wasatch, the end of the steam road, from which a tram road
of three-foot gauge, operated by broad gauge mules, extends on
up to ALTA—[seven and a half miles], a noted mining town, where
is located the once famous Little Emma mine. For a day's run in
summer, from Salt Lake City, there is no trip that can be made
affording as many and varied objects of interest as one to Alta.
When we last visited Alta, in 1874, it was a "booming" business
town, but litigation connected with the leading mines in the
vicinity, has tended to paralyze all business enterprises. Hence,
in a short detour up Little Cottonwood we speak chiefly of its
scenic attractions.
First Detour—Leaving the junction our train turns to the
east directly for the Wasatch mountains, leaving the old Flagstaff
smelting works to the left, just above the station. The grade is
heavy, the soil is stony and covered more or less with sage-brush
and traversed by irrigating ditches conveying the water to a more
productive and less stony soil below.
Magn1f1cent Landscape—Nearing the mountains, about six
miles from the junction, we come to a deep gorge on the left,
through which Little Cottonwood creek has worn its way to the
valley. From this point we bear away to the southward around
a low butte, then turn again to the east and northward and run
along on an elevated plateau where a most beautiful view can be
had. On the west, the Jordan valley in all its magnificent shades
of green and gold is at our feet, with the brown old mountains
bordering the horizon in the distance. To the north, 15 miles
away over as beautiful a succession of little streams, well culti-
vated fields, white cottages, orchards and gardens as are to be
found within the same number of miles in America sleeps "Zion"—
in full view, embowered in green, with the dome of the monster
Tabernacle glistening like some half-obscured "silver moon" sink-
ing at the mountain base; while far beyond and more to the west-
ward lies the Great Salt lake—a mysterious problem. Away to
the south is Utah lake, looking like one large sheet of burnished
silver, surrounded by a net-work of green and gold, while to the
east looms up towering granite walls cleft from summit to base,
forming a narrow gorge only sufficiently wide to allow our little
road to be built beside a little rippling creek of crystal water.
Rolling along our train rounds the head or a ravine, through
a deep cut, passes the old Davenport smelting works on the left,
enters the mouth of the canon between great walls of granite,
crosses and recrosses the little creek, and soon stops at


LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON, UTAH. 163
Wasatch—The end of the steam road, eight and a half miles
from the junction. This is a small station with post office, store
and a few dwellings, containing a population of about 100, most of
whom are engaged in the stone quarries near the station.
At Wasatch all the granite is got out and shaped for the tem-
ple in Salt Lake City. The stone is the best yet discovered in the
territory, being of close, fine gra'n, of light gray color, and of
beautiful bird's-eye appearance. The granite on the south side ap-
pears much darker than that on the north side of the canon.
Prom almost every nook and crevice of these mountain cliffs—
from the station away up the canon—grow small pines, cedars,
ferns, and mosses, which, in connection with the gray walls, snow-
capped mountains, glistening waterfalls, pure air and golden sun,
presents a picture of rare beauty.
Just to the east of the station on the left, away up on a pro-
jecting cliff 1,000 feet above the little creek, stands a granite col-
umn which measures 66 feet in height from the pedestal-like
cliff on which it stands. On each side of this column and reced-
ing from its base is a little conservatory park, filled with nature's
evergreens and surrounded and protected on three sides and on
top with cliffs and rocks and towering pines. Finding that this
granite column was nameless, we named it "Humphry's Park," in
honor of an old friend, once in charge of this railroad.
At Wasatch passengers "change cars," taking those of about
the size of ordinary hand-car, fitted up with seats that will accom-
modate about nine persons besides the knight of the whip, who
chirrups the "broad gauge mules."
About a half-mile above the station we enter the snow sheds,
which will continue for nearly seven miles to AlTa, at the head of
Little Cottonwood canon. The end of the tram is on the side of
the mountain about 200 feet above the town of Alta and about
1,000 feet below the mouth of the celebrated L1ttle Emma M1ne
on the slope of the mountain; and, by the way, on the visit above
referred to, we saw a very novel contrivance being used by the
Emma Co. The snow was several feet deep and the ore was
being hauled down to the depot in drags. The drags consisted ot
a green ox hide. The ore is first sewed up in sacks of 100 pounds
each, then placed on the hide which has loops around the edge,
and when 15 of these sacks are in position a rope is run through,
the loops in the hide the edges drawn close together, then a mule
is hitched to the head portion of the hide—with the hair outwards
—and a brake to the tail. The brake is of iron, shaped like a
horse-shoe, with teeth that drag through the snow, holding back.
In coming down the hill the driver stands on the hide, but
when it becomes necessary on account of heavy grade to "down
brakes," the driver changes his position and stands on the horse-
shoe instead of the hide.
Snow Sheds—As stated above, the snow sheds are seven miles
in length and are built in various styles of architecture, more for
business than beauty, the style being adapted according to circum-
stances. However, they are in all places constructed of heavy
materials—rock, round or sawed timber and built in the most sub-
stantial manner. In one place they are in the shape of a letter A,
sharped-peaked; in another nearly upright on each side, one
side higher than the other with a sloping roof. Again the lower-


164 DOWN JORDAN VALLEY.
hill side is built with a little slope toward the up-hill side and long
heavy timbers from the top of these uprights, slope up the moun-
tain sides resting on a solid foundation, leveled to a uniform grade
for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted there is
danger from snowslides which are more likely to occur, in fact
have occurred, a number of times since the sheds were constructed
and each time the snow, rocks and trees from the side of the
mountain rushed over the sheds into the canon below without
causing any damages to the shed or road.
The principal mines near Alta are the Emma, Flagstaff, Grizzly,
Nabob, Kate Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie and Prince of
Wales. Besides these are over 1, 800 others located within five miles.
Several of these mines are being worked, a few are in litigation
and idle, the balance are controlled by "Micawbers."
To the north over the mountain, two miles, is Big Cottonwood
canon and creek; beyond, five miles, Park City; to the south three
miles, is the Miller mine, at the head of American fork; three
miles east by trail, is Crystal lake, a beautiful sheet of water, fine
picnic grounds, the angler's paradise.
B1g Cottonwood Canon—Is also a very attractive mineral
and scenic locality, as are many other canons in the Wasatch range
convenient to reach from Salt Lake City in half a day's run.
Returning to the junction, it is one mile to
Sandy—[pop, 500; from Salt I.ake City, 13 miles].—Here are to be
seen immense quantities of ore—ore in sacks, ore loose, by the car
load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on
one side and another loading on the other; in fact this—before
Park City—was the greatest shipping, smelting and sampling point
in all Utah.
At Sandy are three sampling and two smelting works and a
number of stores.
Sampl1ng—Is testing such ores as are presented for that pur-
pose in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling company to
ascertain its value and to give certificates accordingly; the ore is
then bought by the smelters at certificate ratings.
"PeANUTS"—There are no regular news agents or "peanut
boys" on the "Central." In their stead we find the train brake-
man; in one case, 240 pounds of him, and the Chesterfield grace
with which he approached, "apples, peanuts," etc., is truly mar-
velous—hands as delicate as the "flippers" of a sea lion, and a
voice—O! Le-Sook!
Draper—[Pop., 750; from Sandy, five miles].—Agriculture and horti-
culture are the chief industries of this people, and also those of
Herramon, a little hamlet to the left beside the mountains. The
landscape views from this place in every direction are very fine.
Leaving Draper our course is east, and after crossing South
Willow creek turns more to the south and finally to the west,
keeping around the foot of the mountains, which here make a full
half-circle. In the distance around there are many cuts and some
hard work, and we queried ivhy the road was built around when
the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across,
where there was very little work to be done? In answer we were
told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the


SAI/T LAKE & WESTERN BRANCH. 165
side of the mountain by revelation. But revelation or not it is very
picturesque here, and the many ins and outs and winds and turn-
ings given to the road, brings a panorama of charming and un-
usual views constantly before the eye, and you feel that the
peculiar manner of construction has not been in vain.
The lower point of the great curve is called the "Point of the
Mountain." At the point where the railroad is built around, the
track is about 300 feet above a little park of a valley to the west,
in which is located a hot spring, marked by a brown, burned patch
of land and rising steam.
As our train curves around this point a most charming view
can be had; one of the finest on the road. The valley is narrow;
to the northward the view is unobstructed for 50 miles; to the south
rests Utah lake, a gem in rich setting in the great lower basin.
Passing through numerous cuts and around the point the train
curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand
curve around the rim of the basin in which are located a round score
of hamlets and Utah lake in plain view.
Nearly opposite the "Point of the Mountain" away to the west-
ward is a low divide in the Oquirrh range, over which a branch
road leads to Tintic and Silver City, of which more anon.
Lehi Junetion—[From Salt Lake City, 29 miles].—Is simply a junc-
tion station from which trains arrive and depart over the Salt
Lake & Western, a branch of the Union Pacific Railway Co.
Detour Seeond.—There is only one train each way a day over
the Salt Lake & Western, and that is a ''mixed'' train. We will take
a run to the end of the track, 53 miles distant. Turning west from
the station our train crosses the track of the D. & R. G. W. and
the Jordan river in the first mile, and gradually climbs a low divide
of the western mountains and descends into Cedar valley. On the
route to the summit of this divide some magnificent landscape
views are to be had, particularly of Utah lake and the beautiful
valley beyond, half encircling it, backed still further by the lofty
range of the Wasatch mountains; as a study for an artist it is un-
equalled in any land. Where is Mr. Bierstadt?
Cedar Fort—station—Is 15 miles west from Lehi Junction in
about the center of Cedar valley and on the old California emigrant
wagon road—a road made historic by the Mountain Meadow
massacre.
Cedar Fort—town—Is situated to the northwest from the
station about three miles, close in beside and on the slope of the
mountains, and contains a population of about 150.
Fa1rf1eld—on the site of old Camp Floyd, is two miles south
from the station. Both Cedar Fort (town) and Fairfield are marked
by groves of trees and cultivated fields, but for the want of water
for irrigation but a small portion of valley can be made produc-
tive. Henceforth by this route stock-raising and mining are the
only occupations of the people.
Climbing up onto another divide called F1ve M1le Pass, we
descend into Rush valley, but no cultivated land appears—all
stock-raising; sheep principally. The town of Stockton is situated
in the northern end of the valley, also Rush lake.
The country now is very broken with cedars and cedar knolls
on all sides.


166 DETOUR—AMERICAN FORK CANON.
Bolter Summit—Is reached 29 miles from Cedar Fort, from
which our train descends into Tintic valley, through the cedars and
pine-clad ridges, five miles to
I ron(on—the junction of the Silver City and Tintic branches.
This station is the shipping point for Eureka, a progressive
mining-town situated five miles to the northeast in a canon of the
mountains, where are located a number of valuable silver mines.
The town contains a population of about 600.
Stages connect with all trains.
Tintie—Is four miles south from Ironton, in almost the cen-
ter of the valley. There are few settlers in the vicinity, and those
are engaged in mining and stock-raising.
The soil of Tintic valley is rich and productive, but without
water for irrigation, hence no crops.
Silver City—[Pop., 50].—Is situated four miles east from fron-
ton, away up on the side of the mountain, reached by our train
over a zig-zag road around the cedar and sage-brush knolls. In a
gulch one mile to the north of the town is located the Mammoth
mine, from which a large amount of ore is mined daily and shipped
to the smelters in Salt lake valley. The town contains one store,
two saloons and one very tall liberty pole. It is essentially a
mining town.
Returning to Lehi Junction we start again for the south.
Lelli—[Pop., 4,100; from Lehi Junction, two miles].—Contains, besides
the usual number of stores, etc., one flour-mill and an opera house,
capable of seating 900 persons. The city is embowered in fruit
trees, and all the land is under a high state of cultivation. Or-
chards of fruit are on all sides. The Lehi is the principal hotel.
Lehi is situated on Utah lake and Dry Canon creek. There is
no richer or more productive soil; everything grows to perfection,
and in great abundance. The place is a typical Mormon town.
Ameriean Fork—[Pop., 4,400; from Lehi, three miles].—Is called
the "gem" of the Mormon towns. It has all the characteristics
of the most attractive Mormon settlements—fruit orchards, broad
streets bordered by rippling brooks, cozy homes, and apparently a
happy and contented people. The town is situated on Deer creek,
a rushing stream, which comes down the American Fork canon.
We should! we will!—it shall be called
Detour Third.—Stimulated by a mining "boom" at the head
of Deer creek in 1872, a company constructed a narrow gauge
railroad up the American Fork canon 12 miles. Eight years after,
the "boom" having in the meantime subsided and the mines
"played out," the rails were taken up and the line abandoned.
But carriages are to be had at the town of American Fork for a
trip up the canon, at reasonable charges, and in some respects they
are far preferable to the cars.
Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly
to the east, and follows up Deer creek, through a general assort-
ment of sage-brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth
of the canon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had
ofMt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the Wasatch to
an altitude of 11,011 feet.
From the mouth of the canon about two miles north is the
little village of Alpine, containing about 250 agriculturists.


THE DEVIL IN UTAH.
167
Entering the canon the passage is quite narrow between the
towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks sheer 600 feet in
height, and leaving less than 100 feet between, through which the
road is built, and a sparkling stream comes tumbling down, each
crowding the other. The ascent in places is over 300 feet to the
mile, and while we are rapidly climbing, the canon walls seem to be
much more rapidly rising, and at a listauce of one, two and three
miles gain an additional 500 feet to the mile, until in places the
peaks are fully 2,500 feet above the creek and road.
In places these cliff walls are pillared and castelated granite; in
others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, in places seamed as
though built up from the bed of the canon by successive layers,
some as thin as a knife-blade, then varying to a foot or more; then
again the rocks have the appearance of iron slag or very dark lava
suddenly cooled, presenting to the observer every conceivable
angle and many fantastic shapes, affording views and rapid
changes, kaleidoscopic in the extreme. Imagine then, this canon
with its pillars, ampitheaters, grottos, and its wild crags, peaks
and needle-pointed rocks towering far above our road, overhang-
ing it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges
near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green,
the pine, fir and cedar trees and shrubs growing in all the glens,
nooks and gulches and away up on the summit; then countless
mosses and ferns clinging to each crevice and seam where a root
will hold, together with the millions of flowers—in season—of
every hue; where the sun's rays are sifted through countless
objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below with
its miniature cascades and eddies. We say imagine all these things,
and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and roman-
tic, picturesque and glorious American Fork canon.
Proceeding on up—up around sharp crags under the very over-
hanging mountains—we pass "Lion Rock" on the right, and
"Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round
aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen; this
hole is called the "Devil's Eye." Ahout three miles from the
mouth of the canon on the left, is "Hanging Rock;" close above
on the same side, is a ver}' large spring, and almost immediately
opposite, the "Devil's Sled-runner," an inverted vein of rock in
the side of the perpendicular cliff resembling a huge sled-runner.
On our first visit to this locality, seeing a Mormon boy fishing we
asked him the name of this peculiar rock formation, and he
answered quickly, "the Devil's Sled-runner." Now, in our Tours
in Utah thus far, we have seen the "Devil's Peak" and his
"slide," and his "rocks," and his "station," and his "gate,"
and his "hole" and his "eye," and now we have his "sled-run-
ner." His trail is getting pretty hot, maybe we will overtake him
yet. But we query why the devil, the devil is thought to play the
devil so much in Utah. Can it be that he is astride his "sled-run-
ner" on the top of his "peak" loaded with "rocks," with his
"eye" on his "station," watching that none "slide" out of his
"gate" without getting in his "hole?"
In conclusion we would say there are many other attractions—
scenic, hunting, fishing, etc., along the canon and up Deer creek
to its head in the high Wasatch mountains that will repay a visit.
Thus far the views and ride have been most grand and delightful.
beyond the powers of man with his gray goose quill to portray, and


FISH, FROGS—MORMON TOWNS. 169
F1sh and Frogs—Five miles north of Provo, in Provo canon,
is located a chain of artificial ponds three of which are completed
and stocked with 500,000 mountain trout, and one more pond
building which will soon be completed, aggregating 15 acres,
The enterprise was commenced in 1887, and is owned by T. T.
Cornforth, of Denver, Col. The fish increased three-fold the first
season and are thriving finely. A hatchery is building, and an
artesian well is being bored to supplement the waters of the Provo
river, and springs that now furnish water for the ponds.
A pond specially designed for raising frogs is among the im-
provements contemplated for 1889.
A visit to these trout ponds would be one quite interesting, if
not profitable, to make.
Leaving Provo we continue our swing around the circle, through
hay meadows and marshes alive with water-fowl, five miles to
Sprillgville—[Pop., 2,700].—This place was named after a warm
spring which flows from Hobble canon, above the town. The
water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring-mill, whereby
the mill is enabled to run all seasons of the year. A woolen factory
is also located here and the usual surroundings of a Mormon town.
Hobble creek canon on the east was so named by the Mormon
emigrants who visited it in 1847, from finding a pair of old Spanish
hobbles. From here the direction of our route is to the southwest.
Connect1ons—By rail: Besides the "Central," with the D. & R. G. Western,
for north and east.
Spanish Fork—[Pop., 2,100].—Is another settlement five miles
further to the south and east of our road, on Spanish Fork river
embowered in foliage, fruit trees and vines. The people like those
of Springville are mostly engaged in agricultural and pastoral
pursuits. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the
citizens; on the table-lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is
made to some extent. All kinds of grain, potatoes, corn, vegeta-
bles, etc., thrive.
Connect1ons—By rail: Besides the "Central," with the r, & R. G. Western
and mail hack south to Salem, three and a half miles, six times a week.
Utall Lake—which we have more than half encircled in our
zig-zag tour, is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and six miles
wide; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble,
Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jordan river,
which runs north and empties into Great Salt lake. Utah lake
abounds in trout, mullet and chubs, and in the marshes along its
shores, water fowl in great numbers.
I*ay§On—[Pop., 2,200; from Spanish Fork, eight miles; Salt I,ake City,
66 miles.—Is an incorporated town situated one and a half miles to
the left of the road at the base of the mountains. Besides the usual
stores, etc., it has an opera house seating 800. The Eureka is the
principal hotel.
The people appear to be well-to-do, and do not trouble them-
selves much about the great problem, "Does the Hon. Mr. Peacock
eat with his knife, fork or f1ngers?" They raise fruit, live-stock
and all kinds of farm produce, and are quite independent. Some
ore is hauled from the mountains to the southward, to this station,
for shipment north.
"Round-ups" to be published soon, in which the old man rounds up every
body and every thing in the west.


170 OVERLOOKED BY MT. NEBO.
Spr1ng Lake Vnu—Three miles from Payson, nestling close
in beside the mountain, and a little lakelet of similar name, is,
noted for its fruit of various kinds, where is located an extensive
canning establishment.
Proceeding from Payson station, the valley gradually narrows
and is nearly crowded out by the mountains and rim of the basin at
Sun I aqiiin—[Pop., 2,000].—Situated to the left beside the moun-
tain and is the last settlement in Salt lake basin. Before the con-
struction of the railroad to Silver City and Tintic, this station was
the nearest point to the railroad from those places.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West three times a week to Goshun, seven miles.
From Santaquin our course is more to the southward, passing
through a rough and broken country over the rim of the basin and
down into Juab valley. There are a great many deep springs in
this valley. A short distance after passing York (four miles from
Santaquin), to the right is a hot spring in which were found the
bodies of the Aiken party, who were murdered there in 1857.
Twelve miles from Santaquin brings us to
Nona—A small hamlet of about 400 settlers, situated at the
immediate western base of Mt. Nebo (altitude, 11,992 feet), the side
of which is marked from the summit down by a pathway of slide
sand, gray in color.
JVt'plii—[Pop., 2,500].—Is the seat of Juab county, situated on
San Pete river close to the southwestern base of Mt. Nebo. Besides
the usual complement of stores, etc., it has a flour-mill, a woolen
factory, an opera house, the Union hotel and the Ensign, a
weekly newspaper.
Connect1ons—By rail: The San Pete Valley (narrow gauge) east and
southward, connecting with all regular trains on the "Central" for Founta1n
Green, 15 miles; Maron1, ten miles; and Chester four and a half miles; total,
29J4 miles.
From Maroni, daily mail stages run eastward to Mt. Pleasant, eight miles;
thence north to Fa1rv1ew, seven miles.
From Maroni, southeast to Spr1ng C1ty (daily), seven miles.
From Maroni, southwest to Wales, five miles, three times a week.
From Chester, south daily, mail stages to Ephra1m, seven miles; Mant1,
■<"« m1les; Sterl1ng, six miles; thence southwest to Gunn1son, eight miles;
thence south to Sal1na, 15 miles; S1gurd, 11 miles;IR1CHF1ELD, ten m1les; Els1-
nore, seven miles; Monroe, five miles; thence three times a week to Marys-
v1lle, 15 miles; Pangu1tch, 52 miles.
From Sterling, south three times a week, to Mayf1eld, six miles.
From Gunnison, north three tfmes a week, to Fayette, six miles; thence west
to Dover, three miles.
The Juab valley commences near York, averages about three
miles in width and is 36 miles in length; cultivated where water
can be had for irrigation. But the settlers in this section of coun-
try rely principally on stock-raising. Some are miners, working
around in the adjoining mountains.
JllUb—[From Nephi, 14 miles; Salt Lake City, 105 miles].—Situated in
the lower portion of Juab valley at the end of the first division of
the road, and a meal station; a store and a score of buildings in
sight comprises the place. There are few settlers in this vicinity.
Bishop Elmer Taylor keeps the hotel and meal station.
Levan—Is a small hamlet situated close in beside the moun-
tains, about midway between Nephi and Juab; reached by daily
mail hack from Juab.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southwest six times a week to Sc1p1o, 23 miles;
Holden, 14 miles; F1llmore, ten miles; Meadow, eight miles; and Kanosh,'
six miles.


MILFORD—FRISCO.
171
A Word To the Tour1st—There is little of interest in this
immediate section of country and beyond, and as the train from
this place runs to the end of the road at Frisco all the way in the
night, it is a fine opportunity for one to exercise any romantic
ideas and imagery, and never fear that the reality will be any
worse than the country traversed. We might stop and return from
here, but as there are others beside the tourist who may be inter-
ested and willing to follow our trail in the night, over which we
have ridden in the day time, we proceed rapidly.
Leaving Juab the route is to the southwest, then west, curving
to the northwest, and then again curves to the southwest and
keeps that general direction to the end of the road.
Following down Chicken creek and around some rugged buttes,
five miles, brings our train onto the banks of the Sevier river,
where the bluffs come close together forming a canon gorge, just
room enough for our road and the stream between.
The Sev1er R1ver is a crooked, alkaline, muddy and slug-
gish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless
country, poorly adapted for a sheep range, although at Lem1ng-
Ton, 25 miles from Juab, and R1vers1de, 18 miles further, a few
settlers are to be seen cultivating the land. The land is product-
ive, with good water for irrigation, but the difficulty is to get a
supply of good water.
Oasis—Formerly Desert, is 52 miles from Juab, situated a few
miles east of the Sevier river, which is here dammed for irrigating
purposes.
Leaving Oasis we pass over a broad level stretch of desert
country, traversed by a great number of irrigating ditches from
the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong with alkali and the
soil so impregnated with it, that the aforesaid wildnerne ss fails to
blossom, except with sage and grease-wood shrubs.
The road crosses the edge of Sevier lake (on a raised track), the
saline deposits of which are very strong.
The scenery along this road, below the Sevier canon, is not
very striking, unless one is very anxious to be struck.
Milford—[Pop., 300; from Oasis, 69 miles; Salt Lake City, 226 miles;
Frisco, 17 miles].—Is situated on Beaver river surrounded by settlers
and some well cultivated and productive farms. Here are located
one quartz-mill and one smelting furnace.
CoNNECT1oNS-Mail stage: Southeast daily to M1nersv1lle, 15 miles; thence
eastward to Beaver, 12 miles; thence southward to Pangu1tch, ^ miles;
H1llsdale, 11 miles; Asays, 14 miles; Ranch, 20 miles; Glendale, ten miles;
Orderv1lle, four miles; McCarmel, four miles; and Kanab, 20 miles.
From Minersville south daily, Cedar C1ty, 40 miles; Kanarrav1lle, 14
miles; S1lver Reef, 22 miles; Wash1ngton, 15 miles; and St. George, six
miles.
From Cedar City northeast daily, to Parowan, 21 miles; and Paragonah,
four miles.
From Silver Reef east daily, to Toguerv1lle, five miles; V1rg1n C1ty,
eight miles, and Rockv1lle, five miles.
From Kanarraville southwest, three times a week to New Harmony, nine
miles; from thence west, twice a week to P1nto, 16 miles; Hebron, 18 miles,
and Panaca, Nev., 55 miles.
From Milford southwest, three t1mes a week to P1oche, Nev., no miles.
Leaving Milford our direction is to the northwest over a heavy
grade and a broad sage-brush plain, to the end of the road at
FrisCO—[Pop., 250; from Milford, 17 1miles; Salt Lake City, 243 miles].
Here is located the once famous Horn S1lver M1ne for which an
English syndicate paid $10,000,000. For many years the property


172 THEY ALL GO THERE.
paid handsome dividends, when for reasons unknown work was
suspended. In the "booming" days of Frisco the place contained
over 2,500 population and loaded whole trains with ore daily for
shipment to the smelting works at Milford and Francklyn. For
many years the Horn Silver was counted the richest mine in the
western country and some mining men claim now, that by proper
management, it can be made to yield an immense revenue.
The ores of the Horn Silver are galena, and said to run from $15
to $1,500 per ton of silver and from 20 to 40 per cent. of lead.
There are a number of other mines near Frisco that are said to
be very rich and that will be heard from at an early day.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northwest, twice a week to Bttrbank, 47 miles,
and Taylor, Nev., 63 miles.
Bidding farewell to southern Utah, we return to Salt Lake City.
Side Tour No. 8—From Salt Lake C1ty to Garf1eld
Beach, Tooele and Stockton.
For this tour we take the trains on the Utah & Nevada, a
branch of the Union Pacific system. They leave from the depot,
situated on the corner of 1st South and 4th west Temple streets.
This is a narrow gauge road commenced in 1874 and completed
in 1877, to within two miles of Stockton, 37J miles from Salt Lake
City.
The route is due west crossing the Jordan river in the first mile,
and on over abroad stretch of bottom land 12 miles to Chambers,
where are located several hot springs, at the northeastern point of
the Oquirrh mountains. The soil on this broad bottom in most
parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand, and
with water for irrigation would produce crops in as great abundance
as the same number of acres in any part of the world. Some few
settlers have located on these lands, but 0n the greater portion
stock, cattle and sheep, range at will; also great numbers of
"narrow gauge mules," called jack-rabbits east of Utah.
Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train
gradually approaches Great Salt lake, which has been in view for
some miles, and five miles from Chambers we pass the old aban-
doned bathing station of Black Rock, named for a black-looking
rock setting out in the lake about 800 feet from the shore, and
about 50 feet in height. It is opposite L1on Head Rock, a sharp
promontory jutting out into the lake, the summit of which is
known as Observat1on Po1nt, so named from the unobstructed
view of the surrounding country which can be had from its sum-
mit. One mile further is
Garfield Beaeh—on Great Salt lake, famous the world
over as one of the most attractive bathing resorts in the world.
For over 20 years—long before the railroad was thought of—
Black Rock was a popular bathing resort for the citizens of Salt
Lake City. It was also visited by many tourists.
At that time a trip to the lake and back for a party of four was
just $3 each, when the roads were good the trip occupying the
whole day. Now, in the bathing season, three round trips can be
made a day, all for half the money paid before the railroad was
constructed.
The bathing beach slopes away for 100 yards before gaining a
depth of six feet, with a fine sandy bottom, with no holes or


GARFIELD BEACH.
173

undertow. The water is pure and very buoyant, sustaining one on
its surface indefinitely without an effort, raising and lowering with
the respiration.
In the water of the lake no living thing exists, hence the timid
need have no fear of reptiles—it's too salt for them. While the
water of the ocean contains only three per cent, salt, the water of
this lake contains over 13 per cent.
Persons taking their first bath should be a little cautious about
a sudden introduction to the waters.


174 GARFIEW) AND VICINITY.
The railroad company purchased all interests at Garfield Beach
several years ago, and have made extensive improvements since.
They consist of a handsome station building, 350x50 feet, of the
latest improved design, a magnificent pavilion 165x65 feet, built
over the water 400 feet from shore, surmounted by a tower in the
center overlooking the lake on all sides. The pavilion is ap-
proached by a broad covered pier over 300 feet in length, flanked
on the sides by 400 elegant dressing rooms fitted up with all the
modern improvements for comfort and convenience such as sta-
tionary washstands, mirrors and showers for rinsing off the salt
water of the lake. Bathing suits are to be had for ladies, gentle-
men and children.
A refreshment saloon, equipped with all the appointments of a
first-class establishment where all the substantiate and every deli-
cacy of the season is served at moderate prices.
We have heard that the railroad company proposed to build a
large hotel on the beach capable of rooming several hundred peo-
ple, but the convenient access to and from the hotels at Salt Lake
City would seem to make it unnecessary.
The baths are extremely invigorating and experience has
proved them of great hygienic effect, stimulating the appetite to
such an extent that a hearty meal immediately after a bath is felt
to be almost a necessity to sustain life.
During the bathing season trains run back and forth between
Salt Lake City and the beach at frequent intervals.
Observat1on Po1nt—Is a short distance east from the Garfield,
from the summit of which an extended view can be had. Antelope
or Church Island to the northeast, is 14 miles distant; Goose Creek
mountains 100 miles northwest; Wasatch mountains from 20 to 25
miles east; West mountain, back of which is the great American
desert, 15 miles, and the Oquirrh close to the south, while the
view to the southwest extends to the rim of the basin 17 miles
away.
G1ant's Cave—Is situated away up in the side of the mountains
to the south of Garfield beach, in an opening extending several
hundred feet into the mountain side with a ceiling ranging in
height from ten to 75 feet from which hang stalactites of great
beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of
Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of
the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi-
tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years
ago two tribes of Indians were at war with each other and that
the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were
followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould-
ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"—and thus
their place of refuge became their grave.
Oqu1rrh Mounta1ns—Immediately south of Garfield, are about
1,000 feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, cov-
ered with small trees in places, sage, shrubs and grass in others,
and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines near the
summit. Game, such as deer and bear, range these mountains;
ducks are abundant six miles east of Garfield; and lake fish? nary
one!
Steam Yacht—Now, if the railroad company want to give
their improvements at Garfield a grand coup dc grace, they will


STOCKTON—AND BACK. 175
construct without delay a first-class passenger steam yacht, put it
in charge of the veteran Capt. Darres to navigate the lake, affording
the traveler an opportunity to explore the mysteries of the famous
''Dead Sea'' of America and to behold the marvelous grandeur
with which this inland sea abounds, of which the great traveler,
Von Humboldt, so truly said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur
of Como and Killarney combined."
Leaving Garfield our course is more to the southward along the
side of the lake by a few well-cultivated farms, where water can be
had from the mountains on the left in suff1cient quantities for
irrigating them. Two miles south on the left is "Doby Rock," a
high isolated rock on elevated ground; so named after an old
Indian who was buried near. Turning more to the left and draw-
ing away from the lake the road follows along a few miles from
the base of the mountains beside which is located "E. T. City," a
small Mormon village.
Half-way House—Is a small station six miles from Garfield,
near a flouring and woolen-mill. On the opposite side of the val-
ley to the west is Grantsv11ae, nine miles distant (connected
with "the train by daily stage), with a population of nearly 2,000 in
the midst of a large body of fine agricultural land. Back of Grants-
ville rise the West mountains which rear their peaks fully 2,000 feet
above the town. Just beyond these mountains is Skull valley,
made notable from an - Indian fight which once occurred there,
after which for many years, the ground was covered with bones.
Tooele—station—[From Garfield, 12 miles].—Is two miles from
the town of Tooele, which is situated to the left of the station
close in beside the mountain.
T00ELE is the seat of Tooele county and contains a population
of nearly 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri-
gated from the little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges,
the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake. It is con-
sidered one of the best fruit and vegetable districts in Utah.
The road has been gradually climbing since leaving Garfield,
until we are now on a high bench curving with the mountains
more to the westward and some miles below the lower end of the
lake. As we near the lower portion pf the great valley which lies
on our right the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards
below the end of the track rises 500 feet, completely locking in
tbe valley by a mountain range or semi-circle, extending in a grand
arc from the Oquirrh mountains on the east, to meet the range
on the west, forming one great bend fully two miles in curvature.
Here at the base is the
Terminus—of the railroad—and where it has remained for
the last ten years, and where it is likely to remain for another ten.
The rim is about half a mile in width, then drops away into
Rush valley to a level with the "terminus."
StOClttOll—[Pop. ,150; from Terminus, two miles; Salt Lake City,39 miles].
Is situated in the northeast corner of Rush valley about half mile
east from Rush lake, a sheet of fresh water two miles long and a
half mile wide. The town at one time contained three smelting
furnaces and a population of about 600, but at this date there is
little being done in this vicinity other than stock-raising and a
little farming along Rush valley.


NORTH—FROM OGDEN.
Water-Marks—With the rugged mountains on our right and
the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of
interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the
mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is
sundered by canons, gulches and ravines is the old water-mark
of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a
mighty sea, washing the mountain sides several hundred feet
above us. The old water-line is no creation of the imagination,
but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded
pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters
of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and
largest bench at various places may be seen two others at about
equal distances apart, showing that the waters have had three
different altitudes before they reached their present level.
From Ogden to a few miles beyond Brigham our road has run
parallel with the Central Pacific, from half to one mile to the left.
The Great Salt lake has been in view far in the distance. Bear
river valley now appears, through which the same river that we
interviewed at Evanston and beyond, flows to its grave in the great
dead sea beyond. This stream runs north from Evanston nearly
150 miles, then curving to the west and south comes down to Salt
lake. Our train runs up the valley, leaving and returning at
times for a distance of 60 miles.
P1ck and Choose—In a ten-mile run from Brigham one can
pick and choose almost anything in the way of laud, water and
rocks to be found in Utah. All along that distance at intervals
appear springs, some cold and some very hot basaltic knolls and
stagnant pools well cultivated fields and alkali beds little lakes
and sage-brush bumps rich soil and big crops, then barren wastes
with nary shrub or vegetable life.
Honeyville—[From ogden, 30 miles].—Is a small hamlet of far-
mers, some of whom have very respectable stone houses. But we
failed to see the honey, so went ahead and left it bee-\u\A.
Dewey—Is passed in five miles, where a grist-mill does duty
and some good farms appear. Then curving around the point
of the mountain, head directly for the north up Bear valley, the
grade increasing. Sage-brush is the rule; pines and cedars appear
in the mountain gorges close on our right, as up we climb!
Collinston—[five miles], formerly called Hampton's, once a
meal station, now abandoned as such.
Just before reaching this station the road cuts through a spur
of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the valley, lcav-
• ing a high isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look.
To the north [six miles], the Bear river canons, through a low spur
of the Wasatch, which reaches away to the northwest. To the
west of this spur lies the Malad valley and Malad river; the latter
and the Bear come close together into the valley immediately to
the west of where we stand, then flow close together down the
valley to the south—parallel for ten miles before they unite—in
some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this val-
ley rises the long range of the Malad mountains, which, commenc-
ing near Corinne, run nearly north to opposite this point and
then bears away to the northwest.
Only a small portion of the lauds in the Bear or Malad valleys
is cultivated; cattle and sheep range at will.


178 BEAR—AND CACHE VALLEYS.
CoNNECT1ONS-Mail hack: Northwest daily to Plymoth, ten miles; Portage,
seven miles; Cherry Creek, ten miles, and Malad C1ty, six miles; total, 33
miles.
Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100-foot grade, curving
around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to,
through which Bear river cuts a few miles to the northward.
Finally the
Summit—Is reached and passed four miles from Collinston,
and we curve to the east and then to the south, around the narrow
spur alluded to, which separates Bear valley from Cache valley.
From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache
valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in
Utah. The valley heads in the Wasatch mountains, northeast of
Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles,
to where it intersects Marsh valley on the north, five miles dis-
tant. The Logan river runs through the lower portion of this
valley and is composed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork and
Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all
the land in the valley.
Mk'lMlon—[Pop., 700; from the Summit, six miles].—Is situated on
a slope of the Wasatch spur, on the west side of Cache valley.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Wellsv1lle, six miles, daily.
Mormon V1llages—In Cache valley there are upwards of 20
Mormon villages, that number populations varying from 300 to
3,200. They are all surrounded with well cultivated lands,orchards,
vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoining
mountains rippling all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and
with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them all
in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which
each one of the communities seems to strive to advance the good
of all. They are an industrious, hard-working, self-reliant and
apparently contented people, always living within their means.
The estimated population of the valley is about 17,000.
Leaving Mendon our direction is due east to Logan, across the
valley, which runs north and south.
CoLLEGE FARM-Midway the valley,between Mendon and Logan,
is situated a farm of 9,643 acres, formerly owned by President Brig-
ham Young and deeded by him just before his death, to trustees in
trust to endow a college at Logan, to be called ''Brigham Young Col-
lege." The trustees are leasing the lands—of which there are no
better in Utah—for the purpose of creating a fund to carry out the
bequest.
Crossing Logan river, and seven miles from Mendon, our train
stops—30 minutes for meals—at the city of
LO$illl — [Pop., 5,000; from Ogden, 5S miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. —Is
the seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache valley
close beside the mountains, just below the mouth of Logan canon.
As a regular meal station this place is peculiar. It is pro-
vided with three separate dining-rooms, which grade their
charges for a meal, 25, 50 and 75 cents, respectively. This
is a novel idea in the way of meals and places them in reach
of all.
The city contains two flourishing mills, a woolen-mill, the rail-
road machine and repair shops of a division, two hotels (the Logan


GOOD EVENING, IDAHO!
179
and the Curtis), one bank, a brewery, a branch of the Z. C. M. I.,
besides a variety of stores and shops and small manufacturing
establishments; also the Utah Journal.
The new tabernacle is of cut stone and seats 2,500 people.
Extended V1ew—Close on the east side of the city a round,
pointed plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, projecting out from
the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet into the valley;
this plateau at the widest place is 500 feet and shaped like a mon-
ster flat-boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the front of the
plateau and looking west the city is close in the foreground, with
the broad valley beyond, and in the distance over all the spur
of the Wasatch range, over which we came from Bear valley.
To the right and left the valley extends for nearly a score of
miles in all its beauty, and no less than 15 towns and villages are
in sight, surrounded by mountain ranges which rise, range upon
range, and peak overtopping peak, the highest of which are robed
in a perpetual mantle of snow.
Logan Temple—In the most commanding position on this
plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four
adjoining counties have erected a magnificent temple in which to
conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon Church. The
main building is of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide and 86
feet high, with a grand tower, 144 feet high from base to pinnacle.
Cost, complete, $500,000.
Around the outer rim of the plateau a double row of trees has
been planted, and the water from the mountains above conducted
in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds.
The settlers in Cache valley are all Mormons, and are all
engaged in agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pursuits.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southward six times a week to Prov1dence,
two miles; M1ll-v1lle, two miles; Hyrum, four miles, and Parad1se, four
miles.
Also northwest twice a week to Benson, six miles; Newton, seven miles;
Clarkston, six miles, and Trenton, four miles.
Leaving Logan our road runs north along the base of the main
range of the Wasatch mountains, having described a great horse-
shoe curve from the summit, which we can see across the valley to
the westward. Hyde Park is reached in four miles, Sm1thf1eld
in three miles, and R1chmond in six miles; all small Mormon
villages, situated to the right of the road beside the mountains.
Frankl1n—Is reached in another six miles, where, if the train is
''on time'' (8:03 p. m.), we can say, ''Good evening, Idaho territory!''
Franklin—Is one mile north of the boundary line between
Utah and Idaho—[Pop., 450]. It is in the northern end of Cache
valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb creek, about one mile from
the station, to the northeast at the base of the mountains. The
seat of Oneida county is Malad city, 40 miles to the northwest,
over the mountains. The grain shipments aggregate 2,150 tons a
year.
From Franklin our course is more to the westward.
Preston—[Seven miles]—Situated on Worm creek, where is
located a fine body of land well cultivated.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northward to R1verdale, five miles, and M1nk
Creek, five miles, three times a week.


ISO
CONNOR'S SHOSHONE FIGHT.
Rattling along over a tortuous route, through numerous deep
cuts Bear river appears on the left, but far below with narrow bot-
tom lands on each side; descending into the valley, the river is
crossed, and passing the little side-track station of BaTTLE CREEK
[from Franklin, 12 miles] we turn to the left, leaving Bear river and
follow up Connor's canon; the grade is heavy, deep cuts are num-
erous, sage-brush abounds, and the country is very broken—only
adapted to stock-raising. Herds of sheep and some cattle are to
be seen, and on reaching Marsh valley [eight miles from Battle Creek]
a few well cultivated farms.
Connor's F1ght—with the Shoshone Indians, took place in
Connor's canon in the winter of 1863-4. At the time of this fight
there were two feet of snow on the ground, and the weather very
cold. The Indians—some hundreds—were hid in the canon among
the willows along the creek, and in the cedars to the right along
the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops the Indians were
completely overcome, and, with few exceptions, none were left
alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen.
Passing Oxford—[From Battle creek, 11 miles]—A small settlement
in Marsh valley, and Swan Lake [three miles], another of the same
kind, situated near a lake of that name, frequented at certain sea-
sons by swans, our road keeps along the base of the mountains
through a section devoted wholly to stock-raising, giving the go-
by to the small stations of Calv1n [seven miles], Downey [three miles],
Thatcher [five miles], and Ar1mo [four miles], arriving at
MeCHllllilOn—[From Arimo, seven miles; Ogden, 130 miles; Pocatello,
23 miles; Soda Springs, 45 miles; elevation, 4,763 feet].—Is situated on Port
Neuf river just below the canon of that name aud at the junction
of the Oregon Short Line, which comes down through the canon,
on the track of which our train runs to Pocatello on third rail.
For continuation of this tour to Pocatello see under Oregon
Short Line, page 185.

TERRACED SPRING—WATER POCKETS.
Yellowstone Park.


FOR PORTLAND AND PUGET SOUND. 181
OVERLAND
FROM
Green River City to the North Paeifie Coast
AND INTERMEDIATES
via Hit- Oregon Short-Line,
A BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
There are two regular through trains a day, each way, which
are equipped with all the latest and best improvements of the
times—Pullman's sleepers, etc.
From Green river the route is the same as the old overland as
far as Granger—see page 138.
Ham's Fork— Comes down from the northwest and joins
Black's Fork close to the west of Granger depot. This stream
rises in Hodge's pass, 40 miles away, and runs through a well
grassed section of country occupied exclusively by stock-growers,
cattle and sheep principally.
From Granger, our road follows up Ham's Fork to the divide
of the mountains (elevation, 6,953 feet), pass through a long snow
shed, and are on the drainage of the Great Utah basin.
Fossil—Is a small station, 49 miles from Granger, situated on
Twin creek, a small stream that finds its way into Bear river.
The stations between Granger and Fossil and the distances
apart, are: MOXA [seven miles], NUTRIA [seven miles], OPAL [nine miles],
WATERFAI.I, [nine miles], HAM'S FORK [eight miles] and FoSSIL [eisht
miles].
Coa1,—Large bodies of coal are said to be located along the
slopes of the divide, and at one time several mines were opened
and worked, loading many cars every day; but of late these mines
have been idle, and the reason why is a problem!
Fossil's station was named on account of the great quantities of
fossils found in the mountains near the station. These fossils are
mostly of f1shes, some of which are very large and perfect. They
are sometimes found at the station for sale to travelers.
From Fossil, we pass a number of unimportant stations: NUG-
GET [seven miles], Sage [seven miles]—situated on Bear river at a
point where our road turns directly north; Beckw1Th [eight milesl,
where are located on the left extensive hay meadows; CokEv1llE
[twelve miles], once a meal station; Border [nine miles], NuphER [five
miles], DINGI.E [nine miles], and to Montpelier, seven miles. Total
distance from Fossil, 66 miles.
RESOURCES—The industries of the country for the last 66 miles
are all connected with the stock business, more or less, with only a
few exceptions where settlers along Bear river have taken up land,
built homes, and are doing something in the way of farming. On
this route are to be seen the "home ranch" of several cattle com-
panies, where large tracts of land are enclosed by fence, and a
large amount of hay put up for winter use. See Bear lake, page 141.


172 THEY ALL GO THERE.
paid handsome dividends, when for reasons unknown work was
suspended. In the "booming" days of Frisco the place contained
over 2,500 population and loaded whole trains with ore daily for
shipment to the smelting works at Milford and Francklyu. For
many years the Horn Silver was counted the richest mine in the
western country and some mining men claim now, that by proper
management, it can be made to yield an immense revenue.
The ores of the Horn Silver are galena, and said to run from $15
to $1,500 per ton of silver and from 20 to 40 per cent. of lead.
There are a number of other mines near Frisco that are said to
be very rich and that will be heard from at an early day.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northwest, twice a week to Burbank, 47 miles,
and Taylor, Nev., 63 miles.
Bidding farewell to southern Utah, we return to Salt Lake City.
Side Tour No. 8—From Saw Lake C1ty to Garf1eld
Beach, Tooele and Stockton.
For this tour we take the trains on the Utah & Nevada, a
branch of the Union Pacific system. They leave from the depot,
situated on the corner of 1st South and 4th west Temple streets.
This is a narrow gauge road commenced in 1874 and completed
in 1877, to within two miles of Stockton, 37£ miles from Salt Lake
City.
The route is due west crossing the Jordan river in the first mile,
and on over abroad stretch of bottom land 12 miles to Chambers,
where are located several hot springs, at the northeastern point of
the Oquirrh mountains. The soil on this broad bottom in most
parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand, and
with water for irrigation would produce crops in as great abundance
as the same number of acres in any part of the world. Some few
settlers have located on these lands, but on the greater portion
stock, cattle and sheep, range at will; also great numbers of
"narrow gauge mules," called jack-rabbits east of Utah.
Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train
gradually approaches Great Salt lake, which has been in view for
some miles, and five miles from Chambers we pass the old aban-
doned bathing station of Black Rock, named for a black-looking
rock setting out in the lake about 300 feet from the shore, and
about 50 feet in height. It is opposite L1on Head Rock, a sharp
promontory jutting out into the lake, the summit of which is
known as Observat1on Po1nt, so named from the unobstructed
view of the surrounding country which can be had from its sum-
mit. One mile further is
Oarfleld Beaeh—on Great Salt lake, famous the world
over as one of the most attractive bathing resorts in the world.
For over 20 years—long before the railroad was thought of—
Black Rock was a popular bathing resort for the citizens of Salt
Lake City. It was also visited by many tourists.
At that time a trip to the lake and back for a party of four was
just $3 each, when the roads were good the trip occupying the
whole day. Now, in the bathing season, three round trips can be
made a day, all for half the money paid before the railroad was
constructed.
The bathing beach slopes away for 100 yards before gaining a
depth of six feet, with a fine sandy bottom, with no holes or


GARFIBLD BEACH.
173

undertow. The water is pure and very buoyant, sustaining one on
its surface indefinitely without an effort, raising and lowering with
the respiration.
In the water of the lake no living thing exists, hence the timid
need have no fear of reptiles—it's too salt for them. While the
water of the ocean contains only three per cent. salt, the water of
this lake contains over 13 per cent.
Persons taking their first bath should be a little cautious about
a sudden introduction to the waters.


166 DETOUR—AMERICAN FORK CANON.
Bolter Summit—Is reached 29 miles from Cedar Fort, from
which our train descends into Tintic valley, through the cedars and
pine-clad ridges, five miles to
I roil ton—the junction of the Silver City and Tintic branches.
This station is the shipping point for Eureka, a progressive
mining-town situated five miles to the northeast in a canon of the
mountains, where are located a number of valuable silver mines.
The town contains a population of about 600.
Stages connect with all trains.
Tintie—Is four miles south from Ironton, in almost the cen-
ter of the valley. There are few settlers in the vicinity, and those
are engaged in mining and stock-raising.
The soil of Tintic valley is rich and productive, but without
water for irrigation, hence no crops.
Silver City—[Pop., 50].—Is situated four miles east from fron-
ton, away up on the side of the mountain, reached by our train
over a zig-zag road around the cedar and sage-brush knolls. In a
gulch one mile to the north of the town is located the Mammoth
mine, from which a large amount of ore is mined daily and shipped
to the smelters in Salt lake valley. The town contains one store,
two saloons and one very tall liberty pole. It is essentially a
mining town.
Returning to Lehi Junction we start again for the south.
Lelli—[Pop., 4,100; from Lehi Junction, two miles].—Contains, besides
the usual number of stores, etc., one flour-mill and an opera house,
capable of seating 900 persons. The city is embowered in fruit
trees, and all the land is under a high state of cultivation. Or-
chards of fruit are on all sides. The Lehi is the principal hotel.
Lehi is situated on Utah lake and Dry Canon creek. There is
no richer or more productive soil; everything grows to perfection,
and in great abundance. The place is a typical Mormon town.
Ameriean Fork—[Pop., 4,400; from Lehi, three miles].—Is called
the "gem" of the Mormon towns. It has all the characteristics
of the most attractive Mormon settlements—fruit orchards, broad
streets bordered by rippling brooks, cozy homes, and apparently a
happy and contented people. The town is situated on Deer creek,
a rushing stream, which comes down the American Fork canon.
We should! we will!—it shall be called
Detour Third.—Stimulated by a mining ''boom'' at the head
of Deer creek in 1872, a company constructed a narrow gauge
railroad up the American Fork canon 12 miles. Eight years after,
the "boom" having in the meantime subsided and the mines
"played out," the rails were taken up and the line abandoned.
But carriages are to be had at the town of American Fork for a
trip up the canon, at reasonable charges, and in some respects they
are far preferable to the cars.
Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly
to the east, and follows up Deer creek, through a general assort-
ment of sage-brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth
of the canon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had
of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the Wasatch to
an altitude of 11,011 feet.
From the mouth of the canon about two miles north is the
little village of Alpine, containing about 250 agriculturists.


THE DEVII, IN UTAH. 167
Entering the canon the passage is quite narrow between the
towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks sheer 600 feet in
height, and leaving less than 100 feet between, through which the
road is built, and a sparkling stream con1es tumbling down, each
crowding the other. The ascent in places is over 300 feet to the
mile, and while we are rapidly climbing, the canon walls seem to be
much more rapidly rising, and at a listance of one, two and three
miles gain an additional 500 feet to the mile, until in places the
peaks are fully 2,500 feet above the creek and road.
In places these cliff walls are pillared and castelated granite; in
others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, in places seamed as
though built up from the bed of the canon by successive layers,
some as thin as a knife-blade, then varying to a foot or more; then
again the rocks have the appearance of iron slag or very dark lava
suddenly cooled, presenting to the observer every conceivable
angle and many fantastic shapes, affording views and rapid
changes, kaleidoscopic in the extreme. Imagine then, this canon
with its pillars, ampitheaters, grottos, and its wild crags, peaks
and needle-pointed rocks towering far above our road, overhang-
ing it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges
near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green,
the pine, fir and cedar trees and shrubs growing in all the glens,
nooks and gulches and away up on the summit; then countless
mosses and ferns clinging to each crevice and seam where a root
will hold, together with the millions of flowers—in season—of
every hue; where the sun's rays are sifted through countless
objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below with
its miniature cascades and eddies. We say imagine all these things,
and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and roman-
tic, picturesque and glorious American Fork canon.
Proceeding on up—up around sharp crags under the very over-
hanging mountains—we pass "Lion Rock" on the right, and
"Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round
aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen; this
hole is called the "Devil's Eye." About three miles from the
mouth of the canon on the left, is "Hanging Rock;" close above
on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately
opposite, the "Devil's Sled-runner," an inverted vein of rock in
the side of the perpendicular cliff resembling a huge sled-runner.
On our first visit to this locality, seeing a Mormon boy fishing we
asked him the name of this peculiar rock formation, and he
answered quickly, "the Devil's Sled-runner." Now, in our Tours
in Utah thus far, we have seen the "Devil's Peak" and his
"slide," and his "rocks," and his "station," and his "gate,"
and his "hole" and his "eye," and now we have his "sled-run-
ner." His trail is getting pretty hot, maybe we will overtake him
yet. But we query why the devil, the devil is thought to play the
devil so much in Utah. Can it be that he is astride his "sled-run-
ner" on the top of his "peak," loaded with "rocks," with his
"eye" on his "station," watching that none "slide" out of his
"gate" without getting in his "hole?"
In conclusion we would say there are many other attractions—
scenic, hunting, fishing, etc., along the canon and up Deer creek
to its head in the high Wasatch mountains that will repay a visit.
Thus far the views and ride have been most grand and delightful,
beyond the powers of man with his gray goose quill to portray, and
i


168
GRAND SCENERY—PROVO.
we say to you, make the tour of the American Fork, and our word
for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life descends
upon a ripe old age.
G1gant1c Amph1theatre—Looking to the eastward and south-
ward from the town of American Fork, a gigantic amphitheatre
is presented; the mountains rise sheer 2,000 feet above the Valley,
in one immense semi-circle, marked and seamed and showing
water-lines, with benches and alcoves, and orchestra boxes, all in-
terspersed with perpetual Christmas trees, and maybe with God's
celestial artillery playing around the summit of the gray old crags,
which together present a scene of marvelous beauty and
grandeur.
Over all to the southward, 50 miles away, rises Mt. Nebo to an
altitude of 11,992 feet.
Pleasant GrOVC—[From American Forks, three miles].—Is very
appropriately named. It is situated close beside the moun-
tain, where orchards of fine fruit are very numerous, bending the
branches of the trees to the ground where not supported artifici-
ally. It is situated on Battle creek, so named from a fight the
early settlers had here with Ute Indians.
Passing Pake V1ew, another pretty little hamlet, on our
11-mile tour around the arc of the basin, we reach the third city
in size in Utah,
PrOVO—[Pop., 5,004; from Salt I.ake City, 45 miles; eleva.ion, 4,517 feet].
Is the seat of Utah county. Was settled in 1849, and is an incor-
porated city, with all the requisit municipal officers. It is situ-
ated just below the mouth of Provo canon on the east bank of
Utah lake. The court house and public buildings of the city are
very good, and all kinds of business are represented here. The
principal manufactories are the Provo woolen-mills, three flour
and three saw-mills, an opera house, which cost $30,000. Provo
has its Chamber of Commerce and two weekly papers, the Ameri-
can and the Enquirer. The principal hotels are the American,
Central, Roberts and Excelsior.
The territorial insane asylum is located here and cost $125,000.
It provides accommodations for 90 patients.
Provo river, which is formed by numerous small streams to the
eastward, affords the best water-power of any stream in Utah.
The woolen-mill is a noted feature of the city; the buildings
number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost com-
plete ready for business $210,000.
The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Meth-
odists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brigham Young
academy is located here, which was amply endowed by President
Brigham Young some years before his death.
Provo is not a bustling, "booming" city, and the traveler will
see very few of the citizens around the depot—they have no time
to idle away. Excepting those engaged in the mills above re-
ferred to the citizens are all farmers, fruit growers, gardeners, or
engaged in raising cattle and sheep. Many of the large herds of
sheep in Utah and Wyoming are owned by citizens of this city.
Connect1ons—Besides the "Central," Provo is connected by rail north and
eastward, by the Denver & Rio Grande Western, and stage to Provo Valley, 20
miles eastward.


FISH, FROGS—MORMON TOWNS. lt,9
F1sh and Frogs—Five miles north of Provo, in Provo canon,
is located a chain of artificial ponds three of which are completed
and stocked with 500,000 mountain trout, and one more pond
building which will soon be completed, aggregating 15 acres,
The enterprise was commenced in 1887, and is owned by T. T.
Cornforth, of Denver, Col. The fish increased three-fold the first
season and are thriving finely. A hatchery is building, and an
artesian well is being bored to supplement the waters of the Provo
river, and springs that now furnish water for the ponds.
A pond specially designed for raising frogs is among the im-
provements contemplated for 1889.
A visit to these trout ponds would be one quite interesting, if
not profitable, to make.
Leaving Provo we continue our swing around the circle, through
hay meadows and marshes alive with water-fowl, five miles to
Springville—[Pop., 2,700].—This place was named after a warm
spring which flows from Hobble canon, above the town. The
water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring-mill, whereby
the mill is enabled to run all seasons of the year. A woolen factory
is also located here and the usual surroundings of a Mormon town.
Hobble creek canon on the east was so named by the Mormon
emigrants who visited it in 1847, from finding a pair of old Spanish
hobbles. From here the direction of our route is to the southwest.
Connect1ons—By rail: Besides the "Central," with the D. & R. G. Western,
for north and east.
Spanish Fork—[Pop., 2,100].—Is another settlement five miles
further to the south and east of our road, on Spanish Fork river
embowered in foliage, fruit trees and vines. The people like those
of Springville are mostly engaged in agricultural and pastoral
pursuits. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the
citizens; on the table-lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is
made to some extent. All kinds of grain, potatoes, corn, vegeta-
bles, etc., thrive. -
Connect1ons—By rail: Besides the "Central," with the D. & r. g. Western
and mail hack south to Salem, three and a half miles, six times a week.
I 1 all Lake—which we have more than half encircled in our
zig-zag tour, is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and six miles
wide; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble,
Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jordan river,
which runs north and empties into Great Salt lake. Utah lake
abounds in trout, mullet and chubs, and in the marshes along its
shores, water fowl in great numbers.
l*aySOn—[Pop., 2,200; from Spanish Fork, eight miles; Salt Lake City,
66 miles.—Is an incorporated town situated one and a half miles to
the left of the road at the base of the mountains. Besides the usual
stores, etc., it has an opera house seating 800. The Eureka is the
principal hotel.
The people appear to be well-to-do, and do not trouble them-
selves much about the great problem, "Does the Hon. Mr. Peacock
eat with his knife, fork or f1ngers?" They raise fruit, live-stock
and all kinds of farm produce, and are quite independent. Some
ore is hauled from the mountains to the southward, to this station,
for shipment north.
"Round-ups" to be published soon, in which the old man rounds up every
body and every thing in the west.


170 OVERLOOKED BY MT. NEBO.
Spr1ng Lake V1lla—Three miles from Payson, nestling close
in beside the mountain, and a little lakelet of similar name, is,
noted for its fruit of various kinds, where is located an extensive
canning establishment.
Proceeding from Payson station, the valley gradually narrows
and is nearly crowded out by the mountains and rim of the basin at
Santaquin—[pop., 2,000].—Situated to the left beside the moun-
tain and is the last settlement in Salt lake basin. Before the con-
struction of the railroad to Silver City and Tintic, this station was
the nearest point to the railroad from those places.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West three times a week to Goshun, seven miles.
From Santaquin our course is more to the southward, passing
through a rough and broken country over the rim of the basin and
down into Juab valley. There are a great many deep springs in
this valley. A short distance after passing York (four miles from
Santaquin), to the right is a hot spring in which were found the
bodies of the Aiken party, who were murdered there in 1857.
Twelve miles from Santaquin brings us to
Mona—A small hamlet of about 400 settlers, situated at the
immediate western base of Mt. Nebo (altitude, 11,992 feet), the side
of which is marked from the summit down by a pathway of slide
sand, gray in color.
\oplii—[Pop., 2,500].—Is the seat of Juab county, situated on
San Pete river close to the southwestern base of Mt. Nebo. Besides
the usual complement of stores, etc., it has a flour-mill, a woolen
factory, an opera house, the Union hotel and the Ensign, a
weekly newspaper.
Connect1ons—By rail: The San Pete Valley (narrow gauge) east and
southward, connecting with all regular trains on the "Central" for Founta1n
Green, 15 miles; Maron1, ten miles; and Chester four and a half miles; total,
2954 miles.
From Maroni, daily mail stages run eastward to Mt. Pleasant, eight miles;
thence north to Fa1rv1ew, seven milee.
From Maroni, southeast to Spr1ng C1ty (daily), seven miles.
From Maroni, southwest to Wales, five miles, three times a week.
From Chester, south daily, mail stages to Ephra1m, seven miles; Mant1,
«vch in1les; Sterl1ng, six miles; thence southwest to Gunn1son, eight miles;
thence south to Sal1na, 15 miles; S1gurd, 11 miles;IR1cHF1ELD, ten m1les; Els1-
nore, seven miles; Monroe, five miles; thence three times a week to Marys-
v1lle, 15 miles; Pangu1tch, 52 miles.
From Sterling, south three times a week, to Mayf1eld, six miles.
From Gunnison, north three tfmes a week, to Fayette, six miles; thence west
to Dover, three miles.
The Juab valley commences near York, averages about three
miles in width and is 36 miles in length; cultivated where water
can be had for irrigation. But the settlers in this section of coun-
try rely principally on stock-raising. Some are miners, working
around in the adjoining mountains.
Jllitb—[From Nephi, 14 miles; Salt Lake City, 105 miles].—Situated in
the lower portion of Juab valley at the end of the first division of
the road, and a meal station; a store and a score of buildings in
sight comprises the place. There are few settlers in this vicinity.
Bishop Elmer Taylor keeps the hotel and meal station.
LEVAN—Is a small hamlet situated close in beside the moun-
tains, about midway between Nephi and Juab; reached by daily
mail hack from Juab.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southwest six times a week to Sc1p1o, 23 miles;
Holden, 14 miles; F1llmore, ten miles; Meadow, eight miles; and Kanosh,


MILFORD—FRISCO. 171
A Word To the Tour1st—There is little of interest in this
immediate section of country and beyond, and as the train from
this place runs to the end of the road at Frisco all the way in the
night, it is a fine opportunity for one to exercise any romantic
ideas and imagery, and never fear that the reality will be any
worse than the country traversed. We might stop and return from
here, but as there are others beside the tourist who may be inter-
ested and willing to follow our trail in the night, over which we
have ridden in the day time, we proceed rapidly.
Leaving Juab the route is to the southwest, then west, curving
to the northwest, and then again curves to the southwest and
keeps that general direction to the end of the road.
Following down Chicken creek and around some rugged buttes,
five miles, brings our train onto the banks of the Sevier river,
where the bluffs come close together forming a canon gorge, just
room enough for our road and the stream between.
The Sev1er R1ver is a crooked, alkaline, muddy and slug-
gish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless
country, poorly adapted for a sheep range, although at LEMING-
Ton, 25 miles from Juab, and R1vers1de, 18 miles further, a few
settlers are to be seen cultivating the land. The land is product-
ive, with good water for irrigation, but the difficulty is to get a
supply of good water.
Oasis—Formerly Desert, is 52 miles from Juab, situated a few
miles east of the Sevier river, which is here dammed for irrigating
purposes.
Leaving Oasis we pass over a broad level stretch of desert
country, traversed by a great number of irrigating ditches from
the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong with alkali and the
soil so impregnated with it, that the aforesaid wildnerne ss fails to
blossom, except with sage and grease-wood shrubs.
The road crosses the edge of Sevier lake (on a raised track), the
saline deposits of which are very strong.
The scenery along this road, below the Sevier canon, is not
very striking, unless one is very anxious to be struck.
Milford—[Pop., 300; from Oasis, 69 miles; Salt Lake City, 226 miles;
Frisco, 17 miles],—Is situated on Beaver river surrounded by settlers
and some well cultivated and productive farms. Here are located
one quartz-mill and one smelting furnace.
CONNECTlONS-Mail stage: Southeast daily to M1nersv1lle, 15 miles; thence
eastward to Beaver, 12 miles; thence southward to Pangu1tch, $p miles;
H1llsdale, 11 miles; Asays, 14 miles; Ranch, 20 miles; Glendale, ten miles;
Orderv1lle, four miles; McCarmel, four miles; and Kanab, 20 miles.
From Minersville south daily, Cedar C1ty, 40 miles; Kanarrav1lle, 14
miles; S1lver Reef, 22 miles; Wash1ngton, 15 miles; and St. George, six
miles.
From Cedar City northeast daily, to Parowan, 21 miles; and Paragonah,
four miles.
From Silver Reef east daily, to Toguerv1lle, five miles; V1rg1n C1ty,
eight miles, and Rockv1lle, five miles.
From Kanarraville southwest, three times a week to New Harmony, nine
miles; from thence west, twice a week to P1nto, 16 miles; Hebron, 1S miles,
and Panaca, Nev., 55 miles.
From Milford southwest, three t1mes a week to P1oche, Nev., no miles.
Leaving Milford our direction is to the northwest over a heavy
grade and a broad sage-brush plain, to the end of the road at
ff"risCO—[Pop., 250; from Milford, 17 1miles; Salt Lake City, 243 miles].
Here is located the once famous Horn S1lver M1ne for which an
English syndicate paid $10,000,000. For many years the property


172 THEY ALL GO THERE.
paid handsome dividends, when for reasons unknown work was
suspended. In the "booming" days of Frisco the place contained
over 2,500 population and loaded whole trains with ore daily for
shipment to the smelting works at Milford and Francklyn. For
many years the Horn Silver was counted the richest mine in the
western country and some mining men claim now, that by proper
management, it can be made to yield an immense revenue.
The ores of the Horn Silver are galena, and said to run from $15
to $1,500 per ton of silver and from 20 to 40 per cent. of lead.
There are a number of other mines near Frisco that are said to
be very rich and that will be heard from at an early day.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northwest, twice a week to Burbank, 47 miles,
and Taylor, Nev., 63 miles.
Bidding farewell to southern Utah, we return to Salt Lake City.
Side Tour No. 8— From Salt Lake C1ty to Garf1eld
Beach, Tooele and Stockton.
For this tour we take the trains on the Utah & Nevada, a
branch of the Union Pacific system. They leave from the depot,
situated on the corner of 1st South and 4th west Temple streets.
This is a narrow gauge road commenced in 1874 and completed
in 1877, to within two miles of Stockton, 37J miles from Salt Lake
City.
The route is due west crossing the Jordan river in the first mile,
and on over abroad stretch of bottom land 12 miles to Chambers,
where are located several hot springs, at the northeastern point of
the Oquirrh mountains. The soil on this broad bottom in most
parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand, and
with water for irrigation would produce crops in as great abundance
as the same number of acres in any part of the world. Some few
settlers have located on these lands, but on the greater portion
stock, cattle and sheep, range at will; also great numbers of
"narrow gauge mules," called jack-rabbits east of Utah.
Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train
gradually approaches Great Salt lake, which has been in view for
some miles, and five miles from Chambers we pass the old aban-
doned bathing station of Black Rock, named for a black-looking
rock setting out in the lake about 300 feet from the shore, and
about 50 feet in height. It is opposite L1on Head Rock, a sharp
promontory jutting out into the lake, the summit of which is
known as Observat1on Po1nt, so named from the unobstructed
view of the surrounding country which can be had from its sum-
mit. One mile further is
Oarfield Beaeh—on Great Salt lake, famous the world
over as one of the most attractive bathing resorts in the world.
For over 20 years—long before the railroad was thought of—
Black Rock was a popular bathing resort for the citizens of Salt
Lake City. It was also visited by many tourists.
At that time a trip to the lake and back for a party of four was
just $3 each, when the roads were good the trip occupying the
whole day. Now, in the bathing season, three round trips can be
made a day, all for half the money paid before the railroad was
constructed.
The bathing beach slopes away for 100 yards before gaining a
depth of six feet, with a fine sandy bottom, with no holes or


174 GARFIEI.D AND VICINITY.
The railroad company purchased all interests at Garfield Beach
several years ago, and have made extensive improvements since.
They consist of a handsome station building, 350x50 feet, of the
latest improved design, a magnificent pavilion 165x65 feet, built
over the water 400 feet from shore, surmounted by a tower in the
center overlooking the lake on all sides. The pavilion is ap-
proached by a broad covered pier over 300 feet in length, flanked
on the sides by 400 elegant dressing rooms fitted up with all the
modern improvements for comfort and convenience such as sta-
tionary washstands, mirrors and showers for rinsing off the salt
water of the lake. Bathing suits are to be had for ladies, gentle-
men and children.
A refreshment saloon, equipped with all the appointments of a
first-class establishment where all the substantiate and every deli-
cacy of the season is served at moderate prices.
We have heard that the railroad company proposed to build a
large hotel on the beach capable of rooming several hundred peo-
ple, but the convenient access to and from the hotels at Salt Lake
City would seem to make it unnecessary.
The baths are extremely invigorating and experience has
proved them of great hygienic effect, stimulating the appetite to
such an extent that a hearty meal immediately after a bath is felt
to be almost a necessity to sustain life.
During the bathing season trains run back and forth between
Salt Lake City and the beach at frequent intervals.
Observat1on Po1nt—Is a short distance east from the Garfield,
from the summit of which an extended view can be had. Antelope
or Church Island to the northeast, is 14 miles distant; Goose Creek
mountains 100 miles northwest; Wasatch mountains from 20 to 25
miles east; West mountain, back of which is the great American
desert, 15 miles, and the Oquirrh close to the south, while the
view to the southwest extends to the rim of the basin 17 miles
away.
G1ant's Cave—Is situated away up in the side of the mountains
to the south of Garfield beach, in an opening extending several
hundred feet into the mountain side with a ceiling ranging in
height from ten to 75 feet from which hang stalactites of great
beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of
Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of
the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi-
tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years
ago two tribes of Indians were at war with each other and that
the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were
followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould-
ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"—and thus
their place of refuge became their grave.
Oqu1rrh Mounta1ns—Immediately south of Garfield, are about
1,000 feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, cov-
ered with small trees in places, sage, shrubs and grass in others,
and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines near the
summit. Game, such as deer and bear, range these mountains;
ducks are abundant six miles east of Garfield; and lake fish? nary
one!
Steam Yacht—Now, if the railroad company want to give
their improvements at Garfield a grand coup de grace, they will


STOCKTON—AND BACK. 175
construct without delay a first-class passenger steam yacht, put it
in charge of the veteran Capt. Darres to navigate the lake, affording
the traveler an opportunity to explore the mysteries of the famous
"Dead Sea" of America and to behold the marvelous grandeur
with which this inland sea abounds, of which the great traveler,
Von Humboldt, so truly said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur
of Como and Killarney combined."
Leaving Garfield our course is more to the southward along the
side of the lake by a few well-cultivated farms, where water can be
had from the mountains on the left in sufficient quantities for
irrigating them. Two miles south on the left is "Doby Rock," a
high isolated rock on elevated ground; so named after an old
Indian who was buried near. Turning more to the left and draw-
ing away from the lake the road follows along a few miles from
the base of the mountains beside which is located "E. T. City," a
small Mormon village.
Half-way House—Is a small station six miles from Garfield,
near a flouring and woolen-mill. On the opposite side of the val-
ley to the west is GranTSVILLE, nine miles distant (connected
with "the train by daily stage), with a population of nearly 2,000 in
the midst of a large body of fine agricultural land. Back of Grants-
ville rise the West mountains which rear their peaks fully 2,000 feet
above the town. Just beyond these mountains is Skull valley,
made notable from an- Indian fight which once occurred there,
after which for many years, the ground was covered with bones.
TOOele—Station—{From Garfield, 12 miles].—Is two miles from
the town of Tooele, which is situated to the left of the station
close in beside the mountain.
ToOELE is the seat of Tooele county and contains a population
of nearly 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri-
gated from the little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges,
the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake. It is con-
sidered one of the best fruit and vegetable districts in Utah.
The road has been gradually climbing since leaving Garfield,
until we are now on a high bench curving with the mountains
more to the westward and some miles below the lower end of the
lake. As we near the lower portion of the great valley which lies
on our right the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards
below the end of the track rises 500 feet, completely locking in
the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle, extending in a grand
arc from the Oquirrh mountains on the east, to meet the range
on the west, forming one great bend fully two miles in curvature.
Here at the base is the
Terminus—of the railroad—and where it has remained for
the last ten years, and where it is likely to remain for another ten.
The rim is about half a mile in width, then drops away into
Rush valley to a level with the "terminus."
Slock to lt—[Pop., 150; from Terminus, two miles; Salt Lake City,39 miles].
Is situated in the northeast corner of Rush valley about half mile
east from Rush lake, a sheet of fresh water two miles long and a
half mile wide. The town at one time contained three smelting
furnaces and a population of about 600, but at this date there is
little being done in this vicinity other than stock-raising and a
little farming along Rush valley.


176 GOOD-BYE, UTAH!
To reach Stockton by rail it will be necessary to drive a tunnel
through the rim separating Rush from Utah valley, 1,000 feet in
length, exclusive of approaches.
Connect1ons—From Stockton: Mail hack southeast to Oph1r, 13 miles,
three times a week.
From Stockton, south to Sa1nt John, nine miles; Centre, eight miles, and
Vernon, 12 miles, three times a week.
This is very little on this tour beyond Garfield Beach to inter-
est the tourist, and there is onlv one train a day between Salt Lake
City and the Terminus.
— — « -
Returning to Salt Lake and thence to Ogdeu, our route from
that city is northward to Montana. Passengers from Ogdeu west,
via Central Pacific railroad, for Sacramento, San Francisco, Los
Angeles and San Diego and all over Cal.forn'a, should be sure
and buy CrofutT'S Overland Tours No. 2. It covers the route
represented by the red line on the map in this book.
Side Tour "So. 9—From Ogden C1ty, northward to
Br1gham C1ty, Logan and Pocatello, connect1ng at the
latter w1th S1de Tour No. 10, for Blackfoot, Yellow-
stone Nat1onal Park, D1llon, Butte C1ty, Anaconda, Deer
Lodge and Garr1son.
For this tour, we take the train on the Utah & Northern,
a branch of the Union Pacific Railway System. This road runs
northward to Pocatello, its junction with the Oregon Short
Line, and from thence to Butte City, Yellowstone National
Park and Helena, and is equipped with excellent trains pro-
vided with Pullman sleeping cars.
"All Aboard!"—means farewell to Utah, and "good even-
ing" to Idaho. Our train leaves at 4:40 p. m., direction, north-
ward; skirts the western edge of the city, across rich, broad and
well cultivated fields, meadows, orchards and gardens, to
Hot Springs—Nine miles from Ogden, where a hotel and
extensive bathing accommodations are provided.
The spring is at the point of the mountain just before reaching
the station on the right. It is one of the many hot springs which
abound in the Great Salt lake and Nevada basins. In cold
weather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for
miles away. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, iron and
other mineral substances.
Five miles further, the Mormon town of Willard [pop., 800]
can be seen nestling in beside the mountains, and seven miles be-
yond, similarly situated, Brigham [pop., 1,000], the seat of Box
Klder county, and like Willard, every house is in the midst of
fruit orchards and gardens.
Volcan1c—Strong evidences exist of the great volcanic up-
heaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires. Just
east of Willard in the first range of hills, is the crater of an ex-
tinct volcano which covers several acres. The masses of lava
lying around and its bleak, barren and desolate appearance
would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many
years have elapsed since it was in active operation.


NORTH—FROM OGDKN. 177
Water-Marks—With the rugged mountains on our right and
the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of
interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the
mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is
sundered by canons, gulches and ravines is the old water-mark
of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a
mighty sea, washing the mountain sides several hundred feet
above us. The old water-line is no creation of the imagination,
but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded
pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters
of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and
largest bench at various places may be seen two others at about
equal distances apart, showing that the waters have had three
different altitudes before they reached their present level.
From Ogden to a few miles beyond Brigham our road has run
parallel with the Central Pacific, from half to one mile to the left.
The Great Salt lake has been in view far in the distance. Bear
river valley now appears, through which the same river that we
interviewed at Evauston and beyond, flows to its grave in the great
dead sea beyond. This stream runs north from Evanston nearly
150 miles, then curving to the west and south comes down to Salt
lake. Our train runs up the valley, leaving and returning at
times for a distance of 60 miles.
P1ck and Choose—In a ten-mile run from Brigham one can
pick and choose almost anything in the way of land, water and
rocks to be found in Utah. All along that distance at intervals
appear springs, some cold and some very hot basaltic knolls and
stagnant pools well cultivated fields and alkali beds little lakes
and sage-brush bumps rich soil and big crops, then barren wastes
with nary shrub or vegetable life.
Honeyville—[From ogden, 30 miles].—Is a small hamlet of far-
mers, some of whom have very respectable stone houses. But we
failed to see the honey, so went ahead and left it bec-hh\A.
Dewey—Is passed in five miles, where a grist-mill does duty
and some good farms appear. Then curving around the point
of the mountain, head directly for the north up Bear valley, the
grade increasing. Sage-brush is the rule; pines and cedars appear
in the mountain gorges close on our right, as up we climb!
CollinslOll—[five miles], formerly called Hampton's, once a
meal station, now abandoned as such.
Just before reaching this station the road cuts through a spur
of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the valley, leav-
- ing a high isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look.
To the north [six miles], the Bear river canons, through a low spur
of the Wasatch, which reaches away to the northwest. To the
west of this spur lies the Malad valley and Malad river; the latter
and the Bear come close together into the valley immediately to
the west of where we stand, then flow close together down the
valley to the south—parallel for ten miles before they unite—in
some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this val-
ley rises the long range of the Malad mountains, which, commenc-
ing near Corinne, run nearly north to opposite this point and
then bears away to the northwest.
Only a small portion of the lands in the Bear or Malad valleys
is cultivated; cattle and sheep range at will.


GOOD EVENING, IDAHO! 179
and the Curtis), one bank, a brewery, a branch of the Z. C. M. I.,
besides a variety of stores and shops and small manufacturing
establishments; also the Utah Journal.
The new tabernacle is of cut stone and seats 2,500 people.
Extended V1ew—Close on'the east side of the city a round,
pointed plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, projecting out from
the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet into the valley;
this plateau at the widest place is 500 feet and shaped like a mon-
ster flat-boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the front of the
plateau and looking west the city is close in the foreground, with
the broad valley beyond, and in the distance over all the spur
of the Wasatch range, over which we came from Bear valley.
To the right and left the valley extends for nearly a score of
miles in all its beauty, and no less than 15 towns and villages are
in sight, surrounded by mountain ranges which rise, range upon
range, and peak overtopping peak, the highest of which are robed
in a perpetual mantle of snow.
Logan Temple—In the most commanding position on this
plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four
adjoining counties have erected a magnificent temple in which to
conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon Church. The
main building is of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide and 86
feet high, with a grand tower, 144 feet high from base to pinnacle.
Cost, complete, $500,000.
Around the outer rim of the plateau a double row of trees has
been planted, and the water from the mountains above conducted
in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds.
The settlers in Cache valley are all Mormons, and are all
engaged m agricultural, horticultural and stock-raising pursuits.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southward six times a week to Prov1dence,
two miles; M1llv1lle, two miles; Hyrum, four miles, and Parad1se, four
miles.
Also northwest twice a week to Benson, six miles; Newton, seven miles;
Clarkston, six miles, and Trenton, four miles.
Leaving Logan our road runs north along the base of the main
range of the Wasatch mountains, having described a great horse-
shoe curve from the summit, which we can see across the valley to
the westward. Hyde Park is reached in four miles, Sm1thf1eld
in three miles, and R1chmond in six miles; all small Mormon
villages, situated to the right of the road beside the mountains.
Frankl1n—Is reached in another six miles, where, if the train is
"on time" (8:03 p.m.), we can say, "Good evening, Idaho territory!"
Franklin—Is one mile north of the boundary line between
Utah and Idaho—[Pop., 450]. It is in the northern end of Cache
valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb creek, about one mile from
the station, to the northeast at the base of the mountains. The
seat of Oneida county is Malad city, 40 miles to the northwest,
over the mountains. The grain shipments aggregate 2,150 tons a
year.
From Franklin our course is more to the westward.
Preston—[Seven miles]—Situated on Worm creek, where is
located a fine body of land well cultivated.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northward to R1verdale, five miles, and M1nk
Creek, five miles, three times a week.


ISO
CONNOR'S SHOSHONE FIGHT.
Rattling along over a tortuous route, through numerous deep
cuts Bear river appears on the left, but far below with narrow bot-
tom lands on each side; descending into the valley, the river is
crossed, and passing the little side-track station of Battle; Creek
[from Franklin, 12 miles] we turn to the left, leaving Bear river and
follow up Connor's canon; the grade is heavy, deep cuts are num-
erous, sage-brush abounds, and the country is very broken—only
adapted to stock-raising. Herds of sheep and some cattle are to
be seen, and on reaching Marsh valley [eight miles from Battle Creek]
a few well cultivated farms.
Connor's F1ght—with the Shoshone Indians, took place in
Connor's canon in the winter of 1863-4. At the time of this fight
there were two feet of snow on the ground, and the weather very
cold. The Indians—some hundreds—were hid in the cation among
the willows along the creek, and in the cedars to the right along
the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops the Indians were
completely overcome, and, with few exceptions, none were left
alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen.
Passing Oxford—[From Battle Creek, n miles]—A small settlement
in Marsh valley, and Swan Lake [three miles], another of the same
kind, situated near a lake of that name, frequented at certain sea-
sons by swans, our road keeps along the base of the mountains
through a section devoted wholly to stock-raising, giving the go-
by to the small stations of Calv1n [seven miles], Downey [three miles],
Thatcher [five miles], and Ar1mo [four miles], arriving at
MeCillllinon—[From Arimo, seven miles; Ogden, 130 miles; Pocatello,
23 miles; Soda Springs, 45 miles; elevation, 4,763 feet].—Is situated on Port
Neuf river just below the canon of that name and at the junction
of the Oregon Short Line, which comes down through the canon,
on the track of which our train runs to Pocatello on third rail.
For continuation of this tour to Pocatello see under Oregon
Short Line, page 185.

Yellowstone Park.


FOR PORTLAND AND PUGET SOUND. 181
OVERLAND
FROM
Creen River City to the North Paeifie Coast
AND INTERMEDIATES
via the Oregon Short-Line,
A BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
There are two regular through trains a day, each way, which
are equipped with all the latest and best improvements of the
times—Pullman's sleepers, etc.
From Green river the route is the same as the old overland as
far as Granger—see page 138.
Ham's Fork—-Comes down from the northwest and joins
Black's Fork close to the west of Granger depot. This stream
rises in Hodge's pass, 40 miles away, and runs through a well
grassed section of country occupied exclusively by stock-growers,
cattle and sheep principally.
From Granger, our road follows up Ham's Fork to the divide
of the mountains (elevation, 6,953 feet), pass through a long snow
shed, and are on the drainage of the Great Utah basin.
Fossil—Is a small station, 49 miles from Granger, situated on
Twin creek, a small stream that finds its way into Bear river.
The stations between Granger and Fossil and the distances
apart, are: MOXA [seven miles], NUTRIA [seven miles], OPAL [nine miles],
WATERFALL [nine miles], HAM'S FORK [eight miles] and FOSSIL [eisht
miles].
Coal—Large bodies of coal are said to be located along the
slopes of the divide, and at one time several mines were opened
and worked, loading many cars every day; but of late these mines
have been idle, and the reason why is a problem!
Fossil's station was named on account of the great quantities of
fossils found in the mountains near the station. These fossils are
mostly of fishes, some of which are very large and perfect. They
are sometimes found at the station for sale to travelers.
From Fossil, we pass a number of unimportant stations: NUG-
GET [seven miles], SAGE [seven miles]—situated on Bear river at a
point where our road turns directly north; BeckwtTH [eight miles],
where are located on the left extensive hay meadows; CokEv1llK
[twelve miles], once a meal station; BORDER [nine miles], NUPHER [five
miles], D1nglE [nine miles], and to Montpelier, seven miles. Total
distance from Fossil, 66 miles.
RESOURCES—The industries of the country for the last 66 miles
are all connected with the stock business, more or less, with only a
few exceptions where settlers along Bear river have taken up land,
built homes, and are doing something in the way of farming. On
this route are to be seen the "home ranch" of several cattle com-
panies, where large tracts of land are enclosed by fence, and a
large amount of hay put up for winter use. See Bear lake, page 141.


isa
SODA SPRINGS—IDAHO.
IVlontpellCl*—[Pop., 9o0; from Granger, 115 miles; Pocatello, 99 miles;
elevation, 5,946 feet].—Is a thrifty Mormon settlement, situated in
about the center of the Bear Lake country, opposite to the east of the
northern end of Bear lake, on a gradual slope of rich agricultural
land several miles in width. It has a number of stores which do a
large business with people from a dozen or more small Mormon
hamlets in the adjoining country.
Shipments for the year ending June, 1888, were: Grain, 1,895 tons;
lumber, 1,195 tons; miscellaneous, 442 tons. Total, 3,680 tons.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northward to Afton, Wvo.,
week. See also under Evanston, page 126.
50 miles, ouce a
Leaving Montpelier, our course changes to the northwest until
we reach Soda Springs, 29 miles distant. On the way we pass a
number of small stations, named Pescadaro tsix miles], Novene
[eight miies], OASIS [seven miles]. Sandwiched in are some good
farms, lava beds, rocky knolls, little creeks, Bear river, meadows
and quite a number of new settlers, just commenced making
homes.
Soda Springs—Station and town.—[pop., 500; from Montpelier
29 miles, McCammon 45 miles; Pocatello, 68 miles; Salt Eake City, 212 miles;
Omaha, 1,024 miles; Portland, 1,190 miles; elevation, 5,780 feet].—Is 1n B1ng-
ham county, Idaho, situated on Soda creek about one mile north
from its junction with Bear river. It contains four general mer-
chandise stores, two saw-mills, a large mineral water bottling es-
tablishment, a brewery, a number of small shops and saloons, and
two hotels—the Idanha and Williams—besides a number of boarding
houses. It also contains quite a number of neat private residences
and summer cottages—as, be it remembered, this place since the
completion of the railroad to it, has become a great sanitarium
and summer resort, on account of the great number of mineral
springs and attractions in the vicinity. Some mining operations
are carried on in the country tributary—as well as important
stock-raising interests.
Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1888, amounted to:
Grain, 203 tons; live-stock, 1,100; miscellaneous, 892. Total, 2,195
tons.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North, once a week, to Omega, 20 miles; Gray's,
20 miles, on John Day lake; Car1bou, 16 miles, where are some rich mines and
a 40-stamp m1ll; fare, $5.
Soda Springs—which give the name to the town and sta-
tion, consists of a group of from 20 to 30 remarkable mineral
springs, within a radius of three miles from the town, and over 100
within eight or nine miles. It is claimed the waters possess all
the virtues of the most celebrated springs in the world. Their num-
ber and variety preclude the publication of an analysis of the
waters, but the different springs are charged, more or less, with
bi-carbonate of soda, bi-carbonate of potash, chloride of sodium
and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bi-carbonate of magnesia, lime,
alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid gas, and a
multitude of other ingredients. One authority says "they are a spe-
cific for the cure of all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles
(even up to advanced symptoms of Bright's disease) and diabetes,
dropsy, and a thousand kindred ills."
In the early settlement of Utah it is said President Brigham
Young visited these springs, in company with many of the high


SODA SPRINGS—AND VICINITY. 183
priests of the Mormon Church, and blessed their waters. Can it
be that to him the present and future generations are indebted
for their virtues? Howbeit, the Mormon people hold the waters
in high esteem and thousands never let a summer pass without
making a sojourn at the springs—many times camping out for
months at a time.
In a number of these springs the water is very cold, in others
quite warm. Some are so highly charged with carbonic acid and
other gases as to prove a most pleasing beverage. Many of the
springs are known by such names as Hooper, Steamboat, Idanha,
Formation, Champagna, Jewsharp, etc., etc.
Idanha—Meaning "gem of the mountains," has its water
charged with soda and magnesia with such a chemical nicety, that
they have become so popular at home and abroad that as high as
10,000 bottles a day have been filled by the bottling company, and
shipped away for use in distant places.
Format1on Spr1ng—Two and a half miles distant, is a great
natural curiosity. It covers several acres of land, and the water
flowing over the ground is constantly forming cascades, terraces
and miniature lakes, by calcareous deposit or action; new forma-
tions are continually occurring, so that visitors from year to year
find new attractions and many changes and transformations.
Near the center of these formations is a subterranean passage or
magnificent cave some 200 feet long, with an angle or L, the roof
being high enough to allow people to walk in an upright position
in most parts of it, and covered with stalactites, reflecting the
light of torch or candle dazzling to the eye.
Steamboat Spr1ng—So named by the "Pathfinder"—Gen,
Fremont, in 1843—has a temperature of 87 degrees. It is a small
geyser, the water being emitted spasmodically, and thrown several
feet in its egress.
Swan Lake—some miles to the eastward from the station,
is another curiosity. It is a pretty little sheet of water in a cone-
shaped basin, covering about two acres, surrounded with trees and
luxuriant undergrowth of shrubs, etc., the rim of which is about
ten feet above the surrounding country, and of calcareous forma-
tion. The water is very clear, showing objects plainly at a depth
of from 20 to 30 feet. The depth of the water is unknown, having
been sounded for over 100 feet without finding bottom. From its
surroundings, it is doubtless an old volcanic vomitory in which
some of the fag-ends of the inferno still remain. The outlet is a
series of small moss-covered basins arranged seemingly in regular
order, the clear water overflowing the banks, trickling down into
the next emerald bowl, and then the next, again and again until it
becomes a respectable-sized creek, which tumbles away to join Bear
river on its way to its final grave in Great Salt lake.
Sulphur Lake—Is situated in the vicinity of Swan lake, in
the center of which boils up a large volume of water, strongly
charged with sulphur, coating the shore with thick deposits of that
suspicious mineral.
In the region surrounding the springs are many other attrac-
tions, worth a long journey to see and requiring months to explore;
among them are extinct volcanos, geyser cones, beautiful lakes,
wonderful caves, sulphur mountains and a boiling lake of sulphur,
immense beds of lava, lava cones, etc., etc.


174 GARFIELD AND VICINITY.
The railroad company purchased all interests at Garfield Beach
several years ago, and have made extensive improvements since.
They consist of a handsome station building, 350x50 feet, of the
latest improved design, a magnificent pavilion 165x65 feet, built
over the water 400 feet from shore, surmounted by a tower in the
center overlooking the lake on all sides. The pavilion is ap-
proached by a broad covered pier over 300 feet in length, flanked
on the sides by 400 elegant dressing rooms fitted up with all the
modern improvements for comfort and convenience such as sta-
tionary washstands, mirrors and showers for rinsing off the salt
water of the lake. Bathing suits are to be had for ladies, gentle-
men and children.
A refreshment saloon, equipped with all the appointments of a
first-class establishment where all the substantiate and every deli-
cacy of the season is served at moderate prices.
We have heard that the railroad company proposed to build a
large hotel on the beach capable of rooming several hundred peo-
ple, but the convenient access to and from the hotels at Salt Lake
City would seem to make it unnecessary.
The baths are extremely invigorating and experience has
proved them of great hygienic effect, stimulating the appetite to
such an extent that a hearty meal immediately after a bath is felt
to be almost a necessity to sustain life.
During the bathing season trains run back and forth between
Salt Lake City and the beach at frequent intervals.
Observat1on Po1nt—Is a short distance east from the Garfield,
from the summit of which an extended view can be had. Antelope
or Church Island to the northeast, is 14 miles distant; Goose Creek
mountains 100 miles northwest; Wasatch mountains from 20 to 25
miles east; West mountain, back of which is the great American
desert, 15 miles, and the Oquirrh close to the south, while the
view to the southwest extends to the rim of the basin 17 miles
away.
G1ant's Cave—Is situated away up in the side of the mountains
to the south of Garfield beach, in an opening extending several
hundred feet into the mountain side with a ceiling ranging in
height from ten to 75 feet from which hang stalactites of great
beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of
Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of
the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi-
tion among the Indians to the effect that "many hundred years
ago two tribes of Indians were at war with each other and that
the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were
followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould-
ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape"—and thus
their place of refuge became their grave.
Oqu1rrh Mounta1ns—Immediately south of Garfield, are about
1,000 feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, cov-
ered with small trees in places, sage, shrubs and grass in others,
and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines near the
summit. Game, such as deer and bear, range these mountains;
ducks are abundant six miles east of Garfield; and lake fish? nary
one! —
Steam Yacht—Now, if the railroad company want to give
their improvements at Garfield a grand coup de grace, they will


STOCKTON—AND BACK. 175
construct without delay a first-class passenger steam yacht, put it
in charge of the veteran Capt. Darres to navigate the lake, affording
the traveler an opportunity to explore the mysteries of the famous
"Dead Sea" of America and to behold the marvelous grandeur
with which this inland sea abounds, of which the great traveler,
Von Humboldt, so truly said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur
of Como and Killarney combined."
Leaving Garfield our course is more to the southward along the
side of the lake by a few well-cultivated farms, where water can be
had from the mountains on the left in sufficient quantities for
irrigating them. Two miles south on the left is "Doby Rock," a
high isolated rock on elevated ground; so named after an old
Indian who was buried near. Turning more to the left and draw-
ing away from the lake the road follows along a few miles from
the base of the mountains beside which is located "E. T. City," a
small Mormon village.
HalT-way House—Is a small station six miles from Garfield,
near a flouring and woolen-mill. On the opposite side of the val-
ley to the west is Grantsv1lle, nine miles distant (connected
with "the train by daily stage), with a population of nearly 2,000 in
the midst of a large body of fine agricultural land. Back of Grants-
ville rise the West mountains which rear their peaks fully 2,000 feet
above the town. Just beyond these mountains is Skull valley,
made notable from an- Indian fight which once occurred there,
after which for many years, the ground was covered with bones.
Tooele—station—[From Garfield, 12 miles].—Is two miles from
the town of Tooele, which is situated to the left of the station
close in beside the mountain.
TooE1<E is the seat of Tooele county and contains a population
of nearly 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri-
gated from the little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges,
the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake. It is con-
sidered one of the best fruit and vegetable districts in Utah.
The road has been gradually climbing since leaving Garfield,
until we are now on a high bench curving with the mountains
more to the westward and some miles below the lower end of the
lake. As we near the lower portion pf the great valley which lies
on our right the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards
below the end of the track rises 500 feet, completely locking in
the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle, extending in a grand
arc from the Oquirrh mountains on the east, to meet the range
on the west, forming one great bend fully two miles in curvature.
Here at the base is the
Terminus—of the railroad—and where it has remained for
the last ten years, and where it is likely to remain for another ten.
The rim is about half a mile in width, then drops away into
Rush valley to a level with the "terminus."
NtOCktOll—[Pop., 150; from Terminus, two miles; Salt I,ake City,39 miles].
Is situated in the northeast corner of Rush valley about half mile
east from Rush lake, a sheet of fresh water two miles long and a
half mile wide. The town at one time contained three smelting
furnaces and a population of about 600, but at this date there is
little being done in this vicinity other than stock-raising and a
little farming along Rush valley.


NORTH—FROM OGDBN. 177
Water-Marks—With the rugged mountains on our right and
the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of
interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the
mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is
sundered by canons, gulches and ravines is the old water-mark
of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a
mighty sea, washing the mountain sides several hundred feet
above us. The old water-line is no creation of the imagination,
but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded
pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters
of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and
largest bench at various places may be seen two others at about
equal distances apart, showing that the waters have had three
different altitudes before they reached their present level.
From Ogdeu to a few miles beyond Brigham our road has run
parallel with the Central Pacific, from half to one mile to the left.
The Great Salt lake has been in view far in the distance. Bear
river valley now appears, through which the same river that we
interviewed at Evanston and beyond, flows to its grave in the great
dead sea beyond. This stream runs north from Evanston nearly
150 miles, then curving to the west and south comes down to Salt
lake. Our train runs up the valley, leaving and returning at
times for a distance of 60 miles.
P1ck and Choose—In a ten-mile run from Brigham one can
pick and choose almost anything in the way of land, water and
rocks to be found in Utah. All along that distance at intervals
appear springs, some cold and some very hot basaltic knolls and
stagnant pools well cultivated fields and alkali beds little lakes
and sage-brush bumps rich soil and big crops, then barren wastes
with nary shrub or vegetable life.
Honeyville—[From ogden, 30 miles].—Is a small hamlet of far-
mers, some of whom have very respectable stone houses. But we
failed to see the honey, so went ahead and left it bee-hind.
Dewey—Is passed in five miles, where a grist-mill does duty
and some good farms appear. Then curving around tl1e point
of the mountain, head directly for the north up Bear valley, the
grade increasing. Sage-brush is the rule; pines and cedars appear
in the mountain gorges close on our right, as up we climb!
Collinstoil— [five miles], formerly called Hampton's, once a
meal station, now abandoned as such.
Just before reaching this station the road cuts through a spur
of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the valley, leav-
• ing a high isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look.
To the north [six miles], the Bear river canons, through a low spur
of the Wasatch, which reaches away to the northwest. To the
west of this spur lies the Malad valley and Malad river; the latter
and the Bear come close together into the valley immediately to
the west of where we stand, then flow close together down the
valley to the south—parallel for ten miles before they unite—in
some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this val-
ley rises the long range of the Malad mountains, which, commenc-
ing near Corinue, run nearly north to opposite this point and
then bears away to the northwest.
Only a small portion of the lands in the Bear or Malad valleys
is cultivated; cattle and sheep range at will.


178 BEAR—AND CACHE VALLEYS.
CoNNECT1oNS-Mail hack: Northwest daily to Plymoth, ten miles; Portage,
seven miles; Cherry Creek, ten miles, and Malad C1ty, six miles; total, 33
miles.
Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100-foot grade, curving
around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to,
through which Bear river cuts a few miles to the northward.
Finally the
Summit—Is reached and passed four miles from Collinston,
and we curve to the east and then to the south, around the narrow
spur alluded to, which separates Bear valley from Cache valley.
From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache
valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in
Utah. The valley heads in the Wasatch mountains, northeast of
Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles,
to where it intersects Marsh valley on the north, five miles dis-
tant. The Logan river runs through the lower portion of this
valley and is composed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork and
Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all
the land in the valley.
lit'I Ml Oil—[Pop., 700; from the Summit, six miles].—Is situated on
a slope of the Wasatch spur, on the west side of Cache valley.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Wellsv1lle, six miles, daily.
Mormon V1llages—In Cache valley there are upwards of 20
Mormon villages, that number populations varying from 300 to
3,200. They are all surrounded with well cultivated lands,orchards,
vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoining
mountains rippling all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and
with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them all
in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which
each one of the communities seems to strive to advance the good
of all. They are an industrious, hard-working, self-reliant and
apparently contented people, always living within their means.
The estimated population of the valley is about 17,000.
Leaving Mendon our direction is due east to Logan, across the
valley, which runs north and south.
CoLLEGE FARM-Midway the valley,between Mendon and Logan,
is situated a farm of 9,643 acres, formerly owned by President Brig-
ham Young and deeded by him just before his death, to trustees in
trust to endow a college at Logan, to be called 'Brigham Young Col-
lege." The trustees are leasing the lands—of which there are no
better in Utah—for the purpose of creating a fund to carry out the
bequest.
Crossing Logan river, and seven miles from Mendon, our train
stops—30 minutes for meals—at the city of
liOgan — [Pop., 5,000; from Ogden, 5S miles; elevation, 4,497 feet]. —Is
the seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache valley
close beside the mountains, just below the mouth of Logan canon.
As a regular meal station this place is peculiar. It is pro-
vided with three separate dining-rooms, which grade their
charges for a meal, 25, 50 and 75 cents, respectively. This
is a novel idea in the way of meals and places them in reach
of all.
The city contains two flourishing mills, a woolen-mill, the rail-
road machine and repair shops of a division, two hotels (the Logan


ISO
CONNOR'S SHOSHONE FIGHT.
Rattling along over a tortuous route, through numerous deep
cuts Bear river appears on the left, but far below with narrow bot-
tom lands on each side; descending into the valley, the river is
crossed, and passing the little side-track station of BaTTLE Creek
[from Franklin, 12 miles] we turn to the left, leaving Bear river and
follow up Connor's canon; the grade is heavy, deep cuts are num-
erous, sage-brush abounds, and the country is very broken—only
adapted to stock-raising. Herds of sheep and some cattle are to
be seen, and on reaching Marsh valley [eight miles from Battle Creek]
a few well cultivated farms.
Connor's F1ght—with the Shoshone Indians, took place in
Connor's canon in the winter of 1863-4. At the time of this fight
there were two feet of snow on the ground, and the weather very
cold. The Indians—some hundreds—were hid in the canon among
the willows along the creek, and in the cedars to the right along
the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops the Indians were
completely overcome, and, with few exceptions, none were left
alive to tell the tale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen.
Passing Oxford—[From Battle Creek, n miles]—A small settlement
in Marsh valley, and Swan Lake [three miles], another of the same
kind, situated near a lake of that name, frequented at certain sea-
sons by swans, our road keeps along the base of the mountains
through a section devoted wholly to stock-raising, giving the go-
by to the small stations of Calv1n [seven miles], Downey [three miles],
Thatcher [five miles], and Ar1mo [four miles], arriving at
111C'CclllllllOll—[From Arimo, seven miles; Ogden, 130 miles; Pocatello,
23 miles; Soda Springs, 45 miles; elevation, 4,763 feet].—Is situated on Port
Neuf river just below the canon of that name and at the junction
of the Oregon Short Line, which comes down through the canon,
on the track of which our train runs to Pocatello on third rail.
For continuation of this tour to Pocatello see under Oregon
Short Line, page 185.

TERRACED SPRING—WATER POCKETS.
Yellowstone Park.


FOR PORTLAND AND PUGET SOUND. 181
OVERLAND
FROM
Oreen River City to the North Paeifie Coast
AND INTERMEDIATES
via the Oregon Short-Line,
A BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY SYSTEM.
There are two regular through trains a day, each way, which
are equipped with all the latest and best improvements of the
times—Pullman's sleepers, etc.
From Green river the route is the same as the old overland as
far as Granger—see page 138.
Ham's Fork— Comes down from the northwest and joins
Black's Fork close to the west of Granger depot. This stream
rises in Hodge's pass, 40 miles away, and runs through a well
grassed section of country occupied exclusively by stock-growers,
cattle and sheep principally.
From Granger, our road follows up Ham's Fork to the divide
of the mountains (elevation, 6,953 feet), pass through a long snow
shed, and are on the drainage of the Great Utah basin.
Fossil—Is a small station, 49 miles from Granger, situated on
Twin creek, a small stream that finds its way into Bear river.
The stations between Granger and Fossil and the distances
apart, are: MOXA [seven miles], NUTRIA [seven miles], OPAL [nine miles],
WATERFALL [nine miles], HAM'S FORK [eight miles] and FOSSIL [eisht
miles].
Coat,—Large bodies of coal are said to be located along the
slopes of the divide, and at one time several mines were opened
and worked, loading many cars every day; but of late these mines
have been idle, and the reason why is a problem!
Fossil's station was named on account of the great quantities of
fossils found in the mountains near the station. These fossils are
mostly of fishes, some of which are very large and perfect. They
are sometimes found at the station for sale to travelers.
From Fossil, we pass a number of unimportant stations: Nug-
GET [seven miles], Sage [seven miles]—situated on Bear river at a
point where our road turns directly north; Beckw1TH [eight milesl,
where are located on the left extensive hay meadows; Cokev1llK
[twelve miles], once a meal station; BORDER [nine miles], Nu1'HER [five
miles], D1ngle [nine miles], and to Montpelicr, seven miles. Total
distance from Fossil, 66 miles.
RESOURCES—The industries of the country for the last 66 miles
are all connected with the stock business, more or less, with only a
few exceptions where settlers along Bear river have taken up land,
built homes, and are doing something in the way of farming. On
this route are to be seen the "home ranch" of several cattle com-
panies, where large tracts of land are enclosed by fence, and a
large amount of hay put up for winter use. See Bear lake, page 141.


SODA SPRINGS—AND VICINITY. 183
priests of the Mormon Church, and blessed their waters. Can it
be that to him the present and future generations are indebted
for their virtues? Howbeit, the Mormon people hold the waters
in high esteem and thousands never let a summer pass without
making a sojourn at the springs—many times camping out for
months at a time.
In a number of these springs the water is very cold, in others
quite warm. Some are so highly charged with carbonic acid and
other gases as to prove a most pleasing beverage. Many of the
springs are known by such names as Hooper, Steamboat, Idanha,
Formation, Champagna, Jewsharp, etc., etc.
Idanha—Meaning "gem of the mountains," has its water
charged with soda and magnesia with such a chemical nicety, that
they have become so popular at home and abroad that as high as
10,000 bottles a day have been filled by the bottling company, and
shipped away for use in distant places.
Format1on Spr1ng—Two and a half miles distant, is a great
natural curiosity. It covers several acres of land, and the water
flowing over the ground is constantly forming cascades, terraces
and miniature lakes, by calcareous deposit or action; new forma-
tions are continually occurring, so that visitors from year to year
find new attractions and many changes and transformations.
Near the center of these formations is a subterranean passage or
magnificent cave some 200 feet long, with an angle or L, the roof
being high enough to allow people to walk in an upright position
in most parts of it, and covered with stalactites, reflecting the
light of torch or candle dazzling to the eye.
Steamboat Spr1ng—So named by the "Pathfinder"—Gen,
Fremont, in 1843—has a temperature of 87 degrees. It is a small
geyser, the water being emitted spasmodically, and thrown several
feet in its egress.
Swan Lake—some miles to the eastward from the station,
is another curiosity. It is a pretty little sheet of water in a cone-
shaped basin, covering about two acres, surrounded with trees and
luxuriant undergrowth of shrubs, etc., the rim of which is about
ten feet above the surrounding country, and of calcareous forma-
tion. The water is very clear, showing objects plainly at a depth
of from 20 to 30 feet. The depth of the water is unknown, having
been sounded for over 100 feet without finding bottom. From its
surroundings, it is doubtless an old volcanic vomitory in which
some of the fag-ends of the inferno still remain. The outlet is a
series of small moss-covered basins arranged seemingly in regular
order, the clear water overflowing the banks, trickling down into
the next emerald bowl, and then the next, again and again until it
becomes a respectable-sized creek, which tumbles away to join Bear
river on its way to its final grave iu Great Salt lake.
Sulphur Lake—Is situated in the vicinity of Swan lake, in
the center of which boils up a large volume of water, strongly
charged with sulphur, coating the shore with thick deposits of that
suspicious mineral.
In the region surrounding the springs are many other attrac-
tions, worth a long journey to see and requiring months to explore;
among them are extinct volcanos, geyser cones, beautiful lakes,
wonderful caves, sulphur mountains and a boiling lake of sulphur,
immense beds of lava, lava cones, etc., etc.


184 SODA—AND WESTWARD.
Game—Haired, feathered and furred are numerous on the
plains and in the mountains, particularly deer, elk, bear, antelope,
sage-hens, pheasants, hares, rabbits, etc.
F1sh—Well, every little stream is alive with the finest trout, to
say nothing of a number of other kinds.
CLIMATE—This region is an ideal health resort. The climate
is as wonderful as the water. The days in summer are warm, while
the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets.
Hotels—The Idanha, the Indian name for Idaho, is a large
first-class hotel built by the Union Pacific Railway Co. to
accommodate the many visitors at the springs. It is three stories
high, surrounded on three sides by a wide veranda, and surmounted
with handsome towers, and furnished first-class. It is so built that
there are no inside rooms, but from every side one can look out
upon the magnificent landscape. It is fitted up with all the mod-
ern improvements, electric light, etc. The management is under
the supervision of the railroad company.
The W1ll1ams is another good hotel with all the modern im-
provements for comfort and far enough from the railroad to be
away from the noise of passing trains. It has 35 rooms, all fur-
nished first-class, with table and attendance all that could be
desired.
Leaving Soda Springs there is little of interest to the traveler,
unless lava beds and other evidences of the great volcanic up-
heaval that once disturbed this country are of interest.
Passing CRATER [five miles], SgUAW CREEK [ten miles], PeBBLE
[nine miles], LAVA [seven miles], TOPAZ [six miles], we reach McCam-
MON [seven miles], at the junction of the UTAH & NORTHERN,
where we were before on Tour No. 10.
The country passed over from Soda Springs is occupied by few
settlers engaged in farming pursuits, stock-raising being about the
chief industry.
The Port Neuf river is followed most of the way, along which
are some fine meadows, hot sulphur springs, grassy slopes and
cozy nooks, anon bordered by rugged palisades, immense cones
and craters of extinct volcanos, huge dikes and lava beds, with
dark caverns and yawning chasms, and, in season, all sandwiched
in with countless flowers in great varieties, varying colors, shades
and tints.
Leaving McCammon and following down Port Neuf river the
bluffs in places on each side show many peculiar rock formations.
In some places the rocks rise like a solid wall, sheer 20 to 100 feet
from the river brink or road, in a line of uniform height for miles
in extent, resembling huge fortifications. In several places along
the road there are two and sometimes three of these walls running
parallel with each other some near the road and some far away.
Robbers' Roost—Is in a cave of lava rock about four miles
before reaching Pocatello, where a band of "road agents" rendez-
voused just before they robbed the Montana stage coach, in 1864, of
a large amount of gold and other valuables.
Below McCammon the following stations, in name only, are
passed: ONYX [four miles], INKON [seven miles], PORT NEIW [six
miles], from which it is six miles to


POCATELLO—NORTHWARD. 185
PoeatCllO—[Pop., 1,600; from Soda Springs, 68 miles; Salt Lake City,
153 miles; Butte, 263 miles; Omaha, 1,092 miles; Portland, 730 miles; elevation,
4,466 feet].—Is in Bingham county, Idaho, situated on Port Neuf
river and the Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Indian
reservation.
The town-site contains 1,840 acres. The railway company have
secured a title from the Interior department, and when proclaimed
by the President, will be opened to settlement. At present all per-
sons not connected with the railroad are here only on sufferance.
The railroad company have here one of their largest hotels on
the road, which is fitted up in first-class style, with fine rooms and
large dining hall, as this is a meal station for most trains.
The railroad company have located here the largest machine
and repair shops on their whole western system, which with the
round house and departments, give employment to about 800
persons.
There are five general merchandise stores here, two news-
papers and several restaurants, saloons and shops.
Connect1ons—By rail: With the Utah and Northern branch for Ogden to the
south, and S1lver Bow on the north. The southern route is described in S1de Tour
No. 10, and that for the north in S1de Tour No. 11.
Side Tour Wo. 10—From Pocatello northward to
Blackfoot, Yellowstone Nat1onal Park, D1llon, Butte
C1ty, Anaconda and Deer Lodge to Garr1son.
8@"This is a continuation of S1de Tour No. 9 from Ogden
to Pocatello.
For this tour we continue on in our Pullman sleeper over
the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacific System.
Turning north from Pocatello the first station is Ross Fork
[11 miles], where is located the agency buildings and farm of the
Fort Hall, Shoshone and Bannock Ind1an Reservat1on.
This reservation comprises 1,202,330 acres in Bingham county, on
the Port Neuf, Ross Fork, Snake and Blackfoot rivers, of which
525,000 acres are as good as any land in Idaho or the western
country. The Indians on the reservation number 1,700 men
women and children; of this number 380 are engaged in agricul-
tural pursuits, and raised for 1888, of wheat, oats and barley, 17,523
bushels; of potatoes, 8,450 bushels; other vegetables, 1,340 bushels.
Their hay product was 2,500 tons, and their butter, 500 pounds.
The reservation Indians own of horses, 6,250; cattle, 1,000;
swine, 45; mules, two, and domestic fowls, 350.
BIcM'Ict'OOl—[Pop., 8o0; from Ross Fork, 13 miles; elevation, 5,403 feet].
Named for the Blackfoot Indians. The seat of Bingham county,
situated on a broad sage-brush plain with the Blackfoot river one
mile to the south, and the Snake about one mile to the northwest.
There are a number of general merchandise stores here, a bank,
U. S. land office, two forwarding companies, a number of restau-
rants and shops, one weekly newspaper—the News. Also several
land and mining companies.
The territorial insane asylum is located near the town.


EAGLE ROCK—MARKET LAKE. 187
has been considerable settlement in this region in the past few
years, but there are still vast tracts yet open for settlement under
the existing laud laws. Stock-raising is the most important
industry in this region of country; cattle and horses do well
here the year around. The pasturage, both winter and summer
ranges, are exceptionally fine. In the winters when the snows
are on the mountains, stock feed in the valleys and along the
river bottoms, and in summer they voluntarily return to the moun-
tain grasses.
M1n1ng—All along Snake river are found auriferous sands, and
placer mining is being followed in many localities with good pay-
ing results.
Cl1mate—The healthfulness of the climate is unsurpassed,
being practically free from malaria and billious troubles incident
to the country east of the Missouri river.
County Valuat1on—The assessed value of real and personal
property of Bingham county for 1888 was $2,5(,o,130.
From Blackfoot our direction is to the northeast, following up
the Snake river on its eastern bank, passing the side-track of
Basalt in 12 miles, where lava beds appear, and reaching in 13
miles
Idaho Falls—Formerly Eagle Rock—[Pop., 1,6oo; from rsiack-
foot, 28 miles; elevation, 4,712 feet.]. The railroad company have located
here machine repair shops and the usual round-houses found at
the junction of divisions.
In the summer of 1890, the great natural advantages of this
place first attracted the attention of capitalists and investors,
when the name was changed to "Idaho Falls." With the im-
mense water-power at this place, the agricultural, timber, min-
eral and other resources that are tributary, and the large volume
of water afforded by the Snake river for irrigating purposes, and
its natural central position for business from a great scope of rich
country, there can be no question about its rapid and permanent
growth. Already extensive irrigating and other works are in
course of construction. It now contains half dozen general mer-
chandise stores, a bank, brewery, flour mill and a variety of
shops, restaurants, and one weekly paper.
Game—Of all kinds abound in the valleys and in the moun-
tains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are
legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notably the
trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an
old sportsman feel happy.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: North to Lhw1sv1lle, 17 miles; Mexak, three
miles; thence east to Lyman, five miles; thence northeast to Rexhuei; nine
miles; Teton, eight miles; W1lford, two miles; thence west to Eg1n, eight
miles; and Br1ghton, four miles, three times a week.
Crossing the Snake to its west bank our direction is north,
through a range of country devoted wholly to stock-raising; basal-
tic knolls appear and occasional alkali sinks.
Market Lake—[Pop.,50; from Eagle Rock, 17 miles].—Is the
first station after crossing the Snake.
The "three Tetons" are to be seen to the eastward; they over-
look the Yellowstone National Park, which lies at their eastern
base.


188
YELLOWSTONE—WONDERLAND.
Volcan1c—The whole country now has a volcanic appear-
ance—lava beds and knolls everywhere; valuless for agricultural
purposes, but in and along the base of the mountains on each side
from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are abundant and all
kinds of stock do well.
t illBlil*—[Pop., 300; from Market Lake, 21 miles; elevation. 4,S22 feet].
Is the principal forwarding station for freight destined for the
Lemhi agency and the mining camps to the westward. It con-
tains two general merchandise stores, two hotels and a variety of
shops and tradesmen. The citizens are mostly stock-men or those
interested in the mines to the westward. Shipments—cattle, ores,
bullion and lead. Total shipments for the year ending June 30,
1888, 6,103 tons—of which 5,011 tons were bullion and lead, and 781
tons of live-stock.
Connect1ons—Mail stage: Daily, west to B1rch Creek. 40 miles; thence
northwest to N1chol1a, 26 miles; thence west to Spr1ng Mounta1n, 12 miles;
thence northeast to Bann1ster, 12 miles; thence northwest to Junct1on, 15
miles, and to the Lemh1 Agency, 20 miles; fare, about 15 cents a mile.
From Lemhi Agency to Fort Lemh1, nine miles, three times a week. [See
under "Red Rock."]
From Nicholia northeast to Woodland, 12 miles. * Star route special.
Proceeding on through patches of sage-brush and barren wastes
of volcanic deposits, passing Dry Creek [12 miles], H1gh Br1dge
[nine miles], with the mountains on both sides gradually closing in
on our way, and Ch1na Po1nt [three miles], we run plump into a
mountain gorge and stop at
Beaver CanOll—Station—[Pop., 200; from China Point, five miles;
elevation, 6,023 feet].—Is in Bingham county, Idaho, at the mouth of
the rugged Beaver canon. It contains two general merchandise
stores, three saw-mills and a hotel. During the building of
the road the population number d 1,000 or more, some of whom
built homes, and, after the completion of the road through the
canon, deserted them.
Lumbering is the most important business here. Stock run the
grassy ranges and grow fat and sleek, and put much coin in the
purse of those who wait.
Connect1ons—During the summer season a line of passenger stages leave
this station for the Yellowstone Nat1onal Park, reaching Firehole basin
near the southern end of the park in a distance of 100 miles. The journey is a very
interesting one to those fond of grand scenery, ami is made in two days, resting
over night at Snake river crossing, dining at'MANleY's in Madison valley, and
reaching Firehole in the evening.
Yellowstone National Park—A description of which
has filled many volumes officially and otherwise and will continue
so to do for all time, can only faintly present the facts, marvelous
wonders and unequalled grandeur to the reader's eye and under-
standing. Had we the space to devote, which we have not, we
doubt our ability to interest the reader further than to give a few
points, which may be of value to the tourist anticipating a visit to
this, the greatest wonderland in the world.
The first report from white men regarding the National Park
that ever reached the public was made by Capt. Lacy, in 1863, but
it attracted little attention. Again in 1869, two returning prospec-
tors reported their wonderful discoveries in Geyser basin. This
was followed in 1871, by the government sending the late Prof.
Hayden, U. S. geologist, to make an examination of the locality.
In his report, accompanied by photographs, Dr. Hayden, demon-
strated that this our own country contains natural wonders which


190
INCOMPARABLY GRAND.
Yellowstone lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an
elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the
numerous valleys on every side rise to a varied height of 12,000 feet.
This country presents the most wonderful volcanic appearance
of any portion of the continent. The great number of hot springs
and the geysers represent the last stages—the vent or escape pipes
—of these remarkable volcanic manifestations of the infernal
forces. All these springs are adorned with decorations more beau-
tiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have required
thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The
most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot
water 15 feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This
display is continued for hours together and so immense is the
quantity of water discharged that, during the eruption, the volume
of water in the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot
water 200 feet in height and over a foot in diameter. It is said
the geysers of Iceland, which have been the objects of interest for
scientists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into in-
significance in comparison with the hot springs of the Yellowstone
and Firehole basins.
The mountain rim of the Yellowstone lake rises from 1,500 to
4,000 feet above its surface, and except in two directions, is un-
broken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain,
through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical
peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which sur-
rounds the lake are born the tributaries—almost the principal
sources—of three of the largest rivers on the continent. Four ot
the most important tributaries of the Missouri, namely, the Big
Horn, the Yellowstone, the Madison and the Gallatin, have their
springs here. Flowing first north then east, they strike the Mis-
souri which in its turn flows southeasterly to the Mississippi
valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that
empties its tides at least 3,500 miles below into the Gulf of Mexico.
The Snake river, whose sources are actually interlaced with those
of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns westward and traverses
nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia
on its way to the Pacific ocean. Again, the Green river rising but
a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of
the south which, after innumerable windings through deserts and
a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canons,
surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth and
gloom, reaches the Gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty
recesses where these springs rise, the explorer stands, as it were,
astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped
into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast
into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic. It is a
thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place
to expand like an eagle's.
Why the water is hot! The most wonderful story about this
remarkable region is told by Langford, one of the first discoverers
and first government commissioner in charge of the park. In
accounting for the water being hot he says: "At a certain point on .
the Yellowstone river the water runs down a steep and perfect
grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth
from the velocity of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of
20 miles, the friction becomes so great that the water is boiling hot.''


MONTANA—STATISTICS.
191
We do not vouch for the truth of this story, and we are not certain
that Langford will swear to it.
In conclusion we say to you, visit the Yellowstone National
Park; don't be in a hurry, spend a month there; you will find good
hotel accommodations. Visit leisurely the lakes, geysers, falls,
etc., and our word for it, the marvelous scenes' of this wonderland
will live in pleasant memory until the sands of time have reached
their last grain, and the great unknown is no longer a problem.
See Illustrations—Pages 21, 36, 124, 129, 186, 189 and 191—
Also Large View No. 1.
Returning to and leaving BeaverCanon station our train rushes
northward, climbing the divide separating the waters of the Pacific
from tb.ose of the Atlantic. The grade
is heavy, the route tortuous; the canon
is passed, also the station of Pleas-
ant Valley, and 13 miles brings our
train to the summit of the Rockies.
HOnldB— [From Beaver Canon station,
13 miles; elevation, 6,807 feet],—Is named
for the two territories on the line of
which it is located—Mon-ida—Mon-
tana-Idaho. The "continental di-
vide," painted 0n a sign-board on the
west side of the track, is just south
from the station. Lumbering and
stock-raising are the only industries
here. From Monida the descent is
gradual down a little valley—a natural
roadway with snow-capped mountain
scenery in the distance, with cattle and
sheep grazing on grassy slopeson each
side, as this is a region devoted wholly
to stock interests.


OLIl FAITHFUL—YEI.LOWSTONE PARK
Montana—Gov. Leslie, of Mon-
tana, in concluding his report to the
Secretary of the Interior for 1888, shows
up the present position of Montana,
condensed to a space that we cannot
refrain from copying. It's pithy:
"The annual out-put of
our mines ten years ago
was estimated at $7,000,-
i!00;nowitisover$31,000,-
0(H). The total value of
taxable property in the
territorv then was $12,-
000,000; nowit is$70,000,-
000 (not counting the
value of the mining
property). The number
of cattle in the terri-
tory then was 220,000,
now it is over 1,500,000;


192 RED ROCK VALLEY.
number of sheep then was 120,000, now it is over 2,000,000; number
of horses then was 40,000, now it is 200,000; number of acres
of land then under cultivation was 265,000, now there are
over 2,000,000 acres appropriated and settled for farming purposes;
then the commerce of the whole territory was $20,000,000, now it
is $40,000,000; then there were a dozen or so miles of railroad, now
there are over 2,000; then the population was 30,000, now it is
140,000; then the territory was in debt $112,000, now it is out of
debt and there is plenty of money in the treasury; then taxes were
high, now they are low; then the contest for the mastery of this
country between the Indian and the white man was red with
human blood, and every household trembled in anxiety for the
triumphs of peace and of rest; now all is quiet and the hostile foe
has laid down his battle-ax, put on the robes of civilization and
treads the path of industry side by side with the white man.
''There are various localities in this territory separated from each
other by great natural landmarks—mountains or rivers—either
and each of which, considered in its extent and acreage, its quality
of soil, timber, stone and water, is a great state in itself. The far-
famed grain-growing Gallatin and Bitter Root valleys; the Flat
Head, Yellowstone, Judith, Sun river, Missouri, Beaverhead, Big
Hole, Big Horn, Rosebud, Milk river, Madison, Deer Lodge,
Prickly Pear and Boulder valleys and many others have demon-
strated to the world their superior capacity in the yield of wheat,
oats, grass, potatoes, peas, vegetables of all kinds, small fruits and
in some of them the large fruits.
"These beautiful valleys, plains and their foot-hills are not ex-
celled in producing qualities by any lands in the United States.
The great streams of fast-going water which pass through or
touch these lands is the source from which all needed irrigation
can be cheaply supplied. There are many millions of acres of
these lands yet in their virgin purity, inviting the plowman's
hand.''
Spring Hill—[Pop., 1o0; from Monida, 15 miles; elevation, 6,265 feet].
Is a meal station for some trains. Two general merchandise stores,
a hotel, the railroad round-house and repair shop comprise the
place. Spring Hill is situated in the southern portion of
RED Rock Valley—This valley is nearly 50 miles in length
and is followed by the railroad, accompanied by Red Rock river,
the entire distance. The valley is dotted at intervals with com-
fortable farm houses and some fenced and well cultivated farms.
Cattle, sheep and game range the grassy slopes on the east, above
which can be seen patches of timber" in the higher ravines, while
on the west extend, as far as the eye can reach, the continental
divide, rising from the valley—the lower portion timber-clad—peak
upon peak to the region of perpetual snow, where their white
heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least,
if not respectability.
Red ROCk—Station—[From Spring Hill, 23 miles; elevation, 5,603
feet].—Is reached after passing, on our way down the valley, the
little side-tracks DEI.L [eight miles], and CRAB TrEE [six miles].
About midway between these two stations is the somewhat
noted
Red Rock—from which this valley, river and station derives
its name; is a bold cliff, probably 500 feet in height and half a mile


E.
:
woodward & TIERNAN PRINTING co., so to so North third street, sr. Louis, Mo.
CITIES, Towns AND LOCALITIES CAREFULLY WRITTEN UP AND FINELY ILLUSTRATED.
VIEW OF LIN DELL BOULEVARD, ST. LOUIS.—Specimen of


CHPE HORN,
SEE PAGE 279.


--
| | |
|
|
| | | |
º
º
. |
|
|.
COLUMBIA RIVER,
Washington.


autºgunsmisano
*-
-
*
º
C.
|F
GRear Sarlake.
F5 of Gunnison
= GREAT SALT LAKE
SLAND
-


194 BUTTE CITY AND MINES.
Mining, stock-raising and freighting are the occupations of the
people in this vicinity.
The station was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs.
Blow, who resides near, and is one of the pioneers in Montana.
And, by the way, the madam has an extraordinary history in
connection with the hostile Indians who infested this country in
early days—one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of
bravery recorded of mothers in the annals of frontier life in this
country, but we have not the space to record it.
Connect1ons—Mail stage: West, daily to Glendale, six miles, and from
thence to Hecla, 12 miles, three times a week.
Leaving Melrose our train dodges in and out around the cliffs
and mountain spurs, while following up a small creek 11 miles to
Divide—another point where the w:..ers divide—those on the
north side reaching the Pacific ocean, on the south, the Atlantic.
Connect1ons—Mail: Northwest to Dewey's, five miles; Ralston, 15 miles;
thence southwest to W1ndom, 35 miles; once a week.
From Divide the route is tortuous, descending rapidly, passing
several side-tracks of little importance.
Silver Bow—[From Butte City, seven miles].—This station is the
end of the Utah & Northern, and the connecting point with the
Montana Un1on railway. Here you will hear "passengers for
Anaconda, Deer Lodge and Garrison, change cars; those for Butte
City, keep your seats.''
We keep our seat, the train turns to the right and follows up a
tributary of Deer Lodge river in view of the old placer diggings,
once so rich, now abandoned—and seven miles climbing, passing
mills and smelters, reach
Blltte City—[Pop., 26,ooo;from Pocatello, 263 miles; elevation, 5,482 feet].
The seat of Silver Bow county, situated on a slope of the moun-
tains facing south. The city contains many fine business blocks
built of stone and brick, has three banks and banking houses,
eight smelting works, three stamp-mills, four immense lumber
yards, four foundries and machine works, three boiler works, three
breweries, five places of amusement, scores of hotels—the St.
Nicholas, McDermott and Hotel Scott being among the best;
eight churches, and schools 23 in number, many small miscel-
laneous manufactories, two daily newspapers—the Inter-Mountain
and the Miner—electric light, telephone, etc., with motor and
electric street cars, secret and benevolent orders, and stores and
shops of all kinds.
M1n1ng Industry—The magnitude of the mining industry at
Butte City and vicinity, and the overwhelming evidences, on all
sides of the extent, richness and prominence of the comparatively
few mines already developed is truly paralyzing—particularly to
an ordinary scribe desiring only to give a full and plain statement
of the mining industry. We have visited the "Comstock" in its
palmy days, interviewed "Leadville" in its glory, and have found
words to describe them; but this "Butte mining camp" is a great
way ahead of both of those noted mining camps—taking them at
their best. So don't look for any description here, but at the fol-
lowing significant figures.
In the vicinity of Butte placer mines have been worked since
18t,4, yielding some millions in gold; and they are worked now to
some extent.


198 DOWN SNAKE RIVER.
AGAIN WESTWARD—From Poeatello.
Leaving Pocatello our direction is westward, crossing a broad
sage-brush plain, the Shoshone and Bannock reservation, occupied
exclusively as a stock range; passingthe following stations, accord-
ing to the time card: MlCHAUD [eight miles], BANNOCK [three miles],
where Bannock creek is crossed, Sunsh1ne [four miles], and then
[ten miles] comes the
Ameriean Falls—Station—[Pop., 1oo- from Pocatello, 25 miles; ele-
vation, 4,341 feet].—Is situated on the south bank of the Snake river,
just above the falls of that name, in the northwest corner of Oneida
county, Idaho, of which Malad City is the seat. It contains one
general merchandise store. The principal business in this region
is stock-raising; some farming is done along the river.
The shipments for the year ending June 30, 1889, in tons were:
Grain, 256; live-stock, 840; miscellaneous products, 60. Total,
1,152 tons.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Rockland, 22 miles, twice a week.
Three ButTES—prominent peaks, are in plain view, 44 miles
away, as the "bird flies."
Amer1can Fai,!^—Immediately after leaving the station and
while crossing to the north side of the Snake river on a fine iron
bridge, these falls appear on the left. The river here tumbles over
a ridge of basaltic rocks in a series of drops from five to 15 feet
each, aggregating within a hundred yards a fall of about 75 feet.
At certain stages of the water the falls present a very interesting
picture, and at all times making more noise than many others that
are more pretentious.—See opposite page.
Amer1can Fa1,m Br1dge—Is a "deck" bridge, two wooden
spans 160| feet each in length; one wooden span 180 feet long, and
one iron span 250 feet long. Height of rail above ordinary stage
of water, 75 feet; height above high water-mark, 45 feet.
Leaving American Falls and proceeding westward, we enter the
great Snake RIVER, lava f1elds. These fields are of vast pro-
portions, extending from Beaver canon to the northeast, all along
the north side of the Snake river in the shape of a great semi-circle
to near the western border of the territory, varying in width from
ten to 60 miles. These "fields" are very generally covered with
a rank growth of sage-brush and grease-wood and sandwiched with
"bunch" and other excellent and luxuriant grasses. Lava in im-
mense beds, buttes, knolls, dykes and ridges appear in places over
the whole tract. The question is often asked: "Where does all the
lava come from as there are no volcanic mountains for hundreds
of miles?" But the question is still unanswered. There is no ques-
tion, however, but the whole area was once a simmering mass,
that, being submerged in water, resulted in many curious fractures
and deep crevices, into some of which a stone being dropped will
go clinking from side to side down, down, until the noise graduall}'
dies away, apparently without bottom being reached, or thud it
may go into the water. These cracks, crevices and chasms are
from a few inches to many feet in width, extending for many miles.
On this vast tract are many springs, and a number of good-sized
creeks, which come down from the northern mountains to get lost
or sink in these lava fields.


AMERICAN FALLS.
199

In places along the creeks where water can lie hail for irrigation
without its sinking, the land has been taken up by settlers and the
yield of all kinds of crops is as good as in any part of the west-
ern country.


200 , SHOSHONE—NORTHWARD.
fiST" On this vast tract there is no question of the fertility of
the soil for agricultural purposes, neither is there any lack of water
in streams high enough to irrigate the lands, but the great prob-
lem, how to get the water over the lands, is the one that must be
solved before any considerable portion of it can ever be more than
a good stock range.
There! while we have been talking about the lava fields, the
train has passed Napat1 [nine miles] and Wap1 [eight miles], and has
just completed the run [16 miles] to
Minidoka—A side-track station, in Alturas county, where
the stage connections are of far more importance than the station.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South to Alb1on, 30 miles; thence west to
Thatcher, 15 miles; thence south to Island, ten miles; thence southwest
to Mar1on, five miles; thence south to Oakley, five miles; thence east to Bas1n,
seven miles, three times a week.
From Albion, mail coach daily, southeast to Con ant, 15 miles; Br1dge, 11
miles, and Kelton, on C. P. R. R., 35 miles.
From Bridge, mail hack north to Malta, 14 miles; thence east to Subletto,
15 miles, twice a week.
From Bridge, mail southwest to Earncl1ff, nine miles; Almo, 19 miles,
once a week.
From Earncliff, mail southwest to Yost, ten miles, once a week.
There will be little change in the landscape or country for the
next 47 miles from that passed over in the last 30 miles; lava
knolls and sage, paper stations and rock cuts, comprise the route
as our train rolls by OMANI [eight miles], KlMAMA [nine miles],
OWINZA [14 miles], WAUCANZA [eight miles] and stops [eight miles] at
SllOSllOllC—[Pop.,800; from Pocatello, 108 miles; Huntington, 219 miles;
Hailey, 57 miles; Ketchum, 70 miles; elevation, 3,973 feet].—Is situated on
Little Wood river, in Alturas county, at the junction of the Wood
river branch. The railroad company have quite extensive
machine shops here, employing about 250 men. There are a num-
ber of good stone business blocks and stores and shops of different
kinds. Two churches, a good school, two hotels—the Dewey and the
Falls—and one weekly paper, the Journal. At this place we find
a "telephone" hotel (the first on our tour) of which more anon.
Stock-raising is the chief industry in this region; the shipments
ending June 30, 1889, were 1,315 tons, of which 570 tons were live-
stock, and 148 tons grain.
Connect1ons—Rail: The Wood river branch of the Union Pacific system;
also mail hack, southeast twice a week to Shoshone Falls, 25 miles; thence
southward to Rock Creek, 12 miles; thence east to Thatcher, 18 miles; thence
north to Jess1e, nine miles. In the tourist season a stage coach runs daily
between Shoshone and Shoshone Falls; fare, $3, or $5 for the "round trip." See
description of Shoshone Falls, further on.
Side Tour STo. 11—From Shoshone northward to
Belaevue, and Ha11.ey to Ketchum.
There is only one passenger train a day over this line, and that
usually leaves Shoshone in the morning, runs to Ketchum for noon
meal and returns to Shoshone in the evening.
Leaving Shoshone the road follows up Little Wood river north-
east, crossing and recrossing it a number of times, and dodging
around lava ridges, knolls and buttes, passing an occasional set-
tler's cabin, with a little patch of land cleared of the rank sage-
shrub and cultivated—raising hay and vegetables principally.
The stations for 29 miles are on paper, but do not materialize;
hence shall be nameless.


WOOD RIVER—CAMAS PRAIRIE. 201
TiKlira—[Pop., 90; from Shoshone, 29 miles; Bellevue, 22 miles].—Is a
little hamlet of farmers and stock-raisers to the right of the road
on Little Wood river. Hay is the principal crop, although vege-
tables and small grain are grown to some extent. Shipments of
grain for the season, 307 tons.
Turning now to the northwest, the lava country gradually
changes, and as our train emerges from a long deep cut a beauti-
ful valley is spread out before it, and the conductor shouts
"Picabo!" the brakeman shouts "Picabo!" the passengers take up
the refrain and say "Picabo." Then the train stops at
Pieabo—Station—and the joke is so good that "Picabo" was
on the tongue of everybody from that time whenever any surprising
bit of scenery suddenly appeared.
I/EDUC—Is the post office name for Picabo. [From Tikura, eight
miles; Bellevue, 14 miles; pop., 50].—Situated on Silver creek in the
midst of extensive hay meadows, the finest seen for many a mile.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: East toCARY, 12 miles, once a week.
As we proceed the valley widens; Silver creek comes down on
the east side and Wood river on the west side, between which is the
finest body of land yet seen in Idaho. From half a mile in width
at Picabo the valley spreads out, within six miles, to a width of ten
miles then gradually narrows within 20 miles, to half a mile in width.
This is the northern and eastern portion of the famed
Wood R1ver Valley and Camas Pra1r1e country. The for-
mer is from one to ten miles wide and 50 miles long, the latter 70
miles long and 20 miles wide; collectively, they are the beau ideal
of a farming and stock-raising country. The soil is a rich black
loam, with a clay sub-soil which is said to hold water and moist-
ure to a marvellous degree, making irrigation unnecessary. Yet
abundance of water can be had from the streams for irrigation, and
by wells in from three to ten feet from the surface.
Those who have had the opportunity for knowing and are
disinterested say: "The numerous creeks which are flowing
through this region keep the clay soil wet, so that however dry
the top may look, you will always find plenty of moisture within
a few inches of the surface. This condition of soil renders the
lands very productive. Immense crops of oats, wheat, barley and
all small grains, and all kinds of vegetables and fruits can be grown
easily and to great profit. The natural grasses yield wonderful
crops of hay, and tame grasses, wherever tried, flourish amazingly.
Timothy, alfalfa and clover make great crops, and the former has
been known to yield three tons to the acre." Gov. Stephenson,
in his report to the Secretary of the Interior for 1888, says: "On
the Spring Brook ranch, the home of Hon. John Hailey, I saw last
month a field of timothy sown last April standing three feet high,
and so thick that you could scarcely part it with your hand to see
the ground. There were cut and weighed four and a half tons of
thoroughly cured clean timothy hay per acre. A field of timothy,
five months from the seed, yielding four and a half tons of cured
hay per acre is hard to believe, but it is nevertheless true."
At Armstrong's ranch, in 1886, five acres of volunteer wheat
yielded 522 bushels, or at the rate of one hundred and four bushels
per acre. Volunteer wheat yields are recorded in a number of
instances, which amounted to 75 bushels per acre. The soil is so


202 ON WOOD RIVER BRANCH.
well adapted to the raising of potatoes and vegetables that a yield
less than one ton of potatoes per acre is a great disappointment,
while of rutabagas, carrots, etc., less than two tons is not consid-
ered an average crop. Barley yields are a matter of record, where
the product amounted to 65 bushels to the acre, without any
irrigation.
A1/turas County, in which Wood river and Camas prairie
country is located, is 190 miles in length, varying from 60 to
120 miles in width, and has almost any desired climate at the
different points of elevation. This county was divided in 1890.
All fruits and grain pertaining to the temperate zone can be
cultivated successfully and in almost unlimited quantities.
There can be no better stock-raising country found on the con-
tinent, affording in the high mountains the finest summer ranges,
and the lower plains can scarcely be excelled for winter grazing.
[Pop., 2,629]. Assessed valuation, $3,737,552. There are 16
quartz-mills, 16 concentrators, four samplers and four smelters in
the county. Of cattle, 23,835; horses, 7,363; mules, 183; sheep,
31,041, and hogs, 1,622 head. The principal towns are Hailey, the
county seat; Bellevue, Ketchum, Atlanta, Shoshone, Mountain
Home, Rocky Bar and Pine Grove. As her valleys are rich and
productive, so are her mountains seamed with rich gold, silver,
lead, copper and other minerals. Fish and game are also abund-
ant in the streams and mountains.
BeIlCVllC—[Pop., 1,900; from Shoshone, 52 n1iles; Hailey, five miles;
elevation, 5,171 feet],—Settled in 1880. Situated in the beautiful valley
of Wood river; has water works, and water running through all
the streets, which are bordered by shade trees; it has four churches
and good schools, one bank, one ore sampler, a large flouring-mill,
three hotels—International and Arlington are the principal ones—
and one weekly newspaper, the Herald. There are a number of
brick buildings and many neat private residences. Bellevue has
an elegant '' driving park '' and the citizens some lively steppers.
Mining is the principal industry. The total shipments for the
year ending June 30, 1889, amounted to 7,131 tons—of which 6,892
tons were ore, 76 tons grain, and 41 tons stone and cement.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West, daily to Broadford, two n1iles.
To the east, Era, 32 n1iles, once a week.
To the northeast, Muldoon, 22 miles, once a week.
To the southwest, Stanton, 11 miles, twice a week.
Hililey—[Pop., 2,150; from Bellevue, five miles; Ketchum, 12 miles;
elevation, 5,342 feet].—Settled in 1881. Is the seat of Alturas county,
situated in the northern end of Wood river valley, which is here
about one mile wide, between high grass-covered mountains rising
to a 1,000 feet or more above the valley. Wood river runs to the
west of the town beside the mountain, from which a gradual slope
or terrace rises to the eastward, upon wh1ch stands the business
portion of Hailey.
Water works, canals and ditches supply the town with water
for domestic and irrigating purposes. Water runs through all the
principal streets and into the gardens and grounds of the citizens.
The walks are lined with shade and ornamental trees, and the
streets kept free from dust by timely sprinkling.
Brick buildings are the rule here. Many of the business blocks
are as large and fine as can be found anywhere in the western
cities, and an energetic Board of Trade is ever on the alert in the


HAILEY—HOT SPRINGS. 203
interest of progress and development. There are four churches
here and one large handsome school building which cost $35,000;
stores and shops of all kinds, one sampling, one iron works,
and one saw-mill, three hotels—Alturas and Merchants' are the
principal ones—one theatre and two daily and weekly newspapers,
the Times and the News-Miner; also electric light, telephone, etc.
The county court house is a fine building of brick and stone;
cost, $50,000.'
The timber supply within ten miles of Hailey is abundant.
Land Off1ce—The U. S. land office for the district of Hailey
is located here and the records show 19,000,000 acres in the dis-
trict, of which less than 1,000,000 have been surveyed. Much of
this land is as valuable as any in Idaho, and can be taken up under
any of the existing land laws.
Water Power—The water power of Wood river comprises
100,000 miners' inches, and affords ample power for driving mills,
machinery, etc., etc.
Dr1ves—The drives are admirable. Natural roads lead from the
town to the overlooking ridges of mountains in the vicinity,
through scenery which, for picturesqueness, ruggedness and grand-
eur can hardlv be excelled.
Sh1pments—The shipments from Hailey for the year ending
June 30, 1889, amounted to 3,146 tons—of which 2,fil2 tons were
ores, 33 tons grain, 2!) tons hides, and 13 tons wool.'
In conclusion, for much valuable information, kind words and
attention on our late visit to Hailey, we are under special obliga-
tions to Mr. Robert R. Strahorn, one of the first among the early
. pioneers to appreciate and make known the wonderful resources
of the country, and T. K. Pico'-te, Esq., editor and proprietor of
the Wood River Times, a daily journal with as much vim, nerve
anA push as any i:1 the West.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southwest lo O1lman four miles; thence north
to Bull1on, two miles, daily. To the southwest to Donaphan, 12-miles' Hays.
ten miles; HUMPHRIES, nine miles; Gr1chtOn, seven miles; Sold1er, six miles,
and CoRRALL, five miles, three times a week.
Ha1ley Hot Spr1ngs—One and a half mile west from Hailey,
in plain view from the Alturas house, are the famous Hailey hot
springs, in a most charming little park or glen, overlooked bv high
mountains, in the sides of which are numerous mining shafts and
tunnels in plain view from the springs.
Large volumes of water, of a temperature of 150° and containing
sulphate of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur and other desirable in-
gredients are emitted from scores of springs. Commodious swim-
ming baths are provided. It is said that many patients have gone
to these springs with chronic cases, believed to be hopeless, of
neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory or mercurial rheu-
matism and other complaints for which the Arkansas springs are
considered a specific, and after a few months of bathing and drink-
ing have left completely restored. The baths are also very popular
with those in good health, thousands visiting them annually for the
delightful effect of a plunge. In the summer of 1888 these springs
and 800 acres of land in the vicinity were purchased by Chicago cap-
italists and a grand plan of improvements commenced. They con-
sist in part of a pavilion 50 by 105 feet, two stories and basement, in
which there are large and small bath rooms, ball room, parlor, dining


204 KETCHUM—IDAHO.
room, billiard room, ten-pin alley and rooms for persons to rest in
after bathing. The bath tubs are porcelain, and all else in keeping
with them. The new buildings are located on the flat a half mile
below the springs, within sight of Hailey, and the grounds are being
laid off and cultivated in the highest style of landscape art so as to
make the place as attractive as possible. The new buildings are
not used as a hotel, any further than serving with the finest lunches
and temporary rest after bathing, while there are ample arrange-
ments for amusements. A complete system of water works is
being put in for the buildings and grounds. These improvements
will cause an outlay of $40,000, and are to be finished during the
present season. There will be on the grounds three lakes, one
for outside swimming and bathing, and the other two for the
cultivation of trout and other fish, and boating. Thousands of
trees are being planted on the grounds, about the springs and around
the buildings, and it w1ll not be long before this will become a
most delightful resort. The company own 150 registered pedigreed
shorthorn cattle, said to be the largest pedigreed herd west of Iowa.
The entire investment, aggregating $70,000, is made by Robert
Strahorn & Co., the senior partner of whom is well known in
connection with the Chicago stock yards, and the junior of the lit-
erary department of the Un1on Pacific railway. The latter is in
charge at the springs. Hourly carriages from Hailey.
8®"As a center for hunting and fishing tours Hailey is unriv-
alled. Could you secure Mr. Strahorn as a companion and guide
the out1ng would ever live in pleasant memory.
Leaving Ha1ley and following along up Wood river north, the
valley is gradually crowded to a narrow strip and finally com-
pletely out, by towering mountains upon each side, the black walls
of which, in places, standsheer 1,000 feetabovethe train; in others,
groves of pines and firs darken the narrow way and rise full ten
score feet above the road and the roaring river by its side. And
so we go to
KetChum—[Pop., 1,250; from Hailey, 12 miles; Shoshone. 69 miles; ele-
vation. 5,823 feet].—Is in Alturas county, situated on Wood river, at
the end of the Wood river branch of the Union Pacific railway.
One of the largest smelting works in Idaho is located on the west-
ern edge of the town.
Ketchum has four churches, a school building that cost $12,000,
a hall that seats 8(X) persons, two saw-mills, one bank, one brewery,
one weekly newspaper—the Keystone—and two hotels, the Palace
and Baxter; also general merchandise stores, shops, etc.
F1shing and hunting near Ketchum are all that the most greed}'
sportsman could des're. Trout are abundant.
The shipments for the year ending June 80th, 1880, amounted
to 3,380 tons—of which the principal items were: Bullion and lead,
1,697 tons; ores, 1,588 tons, and lumber, 483 tons.
The mountains and h'lls are mostly grassed to their summits
with the most nutritious feed on which stock do well in summer,
and for winter, they are driven to the valley.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to D1ckey, 35 miles. [See under
"Blackfoot."]
North, mail hack three times a week to Uoulder, 12 miles; thence north-
west to Galena, 12 miles.
Southwest, three times a week to Smoky, 2S miles; south to Hays, 25 miles.
[See under "Hailey."]


GUYER HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS.
205

PACK TRAIN—FOR THE MOUNTAIN CAMPS.
Mining and lumbering are about the only industries. The town
is surrounded by small mining camps. One can see "jack trains"
(burros) stringing down over the hills loaded with ore, and
others loading at the depot with merchandise for the mines. These
trains number as high as 100 animals in a train, and tramp off for
hours at a time, loaded with from 150 to 250 pounds in weight.
Large freight teams, six and eight span of mules, are also to be
seen which haul merchandise and ores between this and distant
towns to the north, west and east. The ores carry silver and lead
principally.'
Guyer Hot Sulphur Spr1ngs—Are a great attraction at Ket-
chum. They are located two and a half miles west from the town
on Warm Spring creek, in a wild and romantic glen. The waters
fairly gush from numerous crevices in the rocks, and where not
controlled, drop in little cascades to the creek below, some 30 feet
or more. v
The waters of these springs are said to be specially valuable
for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, gout, liver complaints, and
impurities of the blood; bathing in and drinking the water effect
wonderful improvement, if not cures, within a very short time.
The improvements at the springs are a fine hotel well furnished,
with accommodations for 30 persons, with reception, dining and
billiard-rooms, extensive stables, cottages for guests, two plunge
baths, 30x60 feet, and a number of tub baths. The water is con-
veyed through pipes from the springs above to the several bath-
houses, and is so arranged that any desired temperature can be


206 TO SHOSHONE FALLS.
had. Some neatly furnished sleeping rooms have baths attached,
so that patients who desire can have all the benefits of these
waters without any exposure to the outer air, or without necessi-
tating leaving their rooms.
Analys1s—The following is the analysis of the waters from a
distinguished chemist:
Bellevue Hosp1tal Med1cal College, }
New York, August o, 1882. J
The sample ot mineral water from the boiliLg springs of Ketchum, Idaho,
sent me, yields an analysis—
Sodium Chloride, grains per Imp. gal 3,578
Sodium Carbonate " " "" 9,965
Calcium Sulphate, " " "" 6,574
Magnesium Sulphate" " "" 0,534
Magnesium Chloride" " "" 0.914
Organic matter, with traces of iron and silica. 1,240
Total Solids 22,805
Yours respectfully,
R. OGDEN DOBEMUS, M.D., LL.D.
Prof. Chemistry and Toxicology in Bellevue Hospital Medical College.
Temperature of water, 165 Fahr.
The scenery in the vicinity of these springs is exceptionally
grand, as is the trout fishing in the streams.
Returning to Shoshone, we start for the south—by stage.
Side Tour 'No. 12—From Shoshone southeast to the
Great Shoshone Falls.—(See large view No. j.)
During the tourist season a "coach and four" leaves Shoshone
every morning for the falls. Sometimes parties prefer chartering
a special outfit with driver, others take saddle animals. The latter
plan is the best, provided a good horse can be obtained and one is
accustomed to riding.
This tour is sure to be a dusty one, hence a close fitting duster
is worth many times its price for this trip alone.
The scenery on the way is not very interesting, unless lava beds,
buttes and knolls, garnished with sage-brush and peppered with
the basis of creation, are of interest. And, by the way, if dust is
an essential element in the creation of human beings, Idaho and
eastern Oregon at certain seasons could furnish an immense
amount of raw material.
The Shoshone canon is nearly 70 miles in length, and besides
numerous rapids and small cascades, has two very notable falls.
The first from the east is known as
Tw1n Falls—Sometimes called "Upper Shoshone;" they are
three miles above the great falls, and have a single leap of 180 feet.
Just above the falls, about midway the stream, is situated a tongue-
shaped rock which divides the river into two narrow channels, each
about 75 feet in width, through which the waters rush with great
velocity. The rapids below the falls only extend a few hundred
yards and then the stream becomes smooth and apparently almost
still. At this point, near midway between the greater and lesser
falls, is the
Ferrv Cross1ng—Fstablished here nearly 20 years ago. Near
at hand is the ferryman's Cottage-hotel, which, until recently, has
been the only house of entertainment for the traveler in this vicin-
ity. A wagon road has been cut in the northern wall of the canon,
materially shortening the distance to the ferry over that by the
old trail. Crossing the river to the south side we find a large hotel


GREAT SNAKE RIVER PAWS.
207
recently erected, and admirably located to afford the most exten-
sive views of much of the most beautiful and interesting scenery.
Below the ferry, a short distance, the river contracts to a width
of about 600 feet, and rapids follow to the final jump.
Rushing on towards the brink of the great fall the river seems
to divide its forces and dodge around a trio of little rocky islands.
In its mad career it becomes very turbulent, jumping here and
there, forming a number of little cascades. Two of the largest are
called "Bridal Veil" and "Bridal Trail," the drop being about 80
feet each. It is said the name was suggested by portions of the
river pouring over in lace-like forms, a resemblance, as the water
and spray glistened in the sunlight, to a royal bride's veil and trail.
Now should any betrothed ever take that "trail" she never
would survive to take the "veil."
The width of the river at the point of taking the last leap is
about 900 feet; the fall, 220 feet. Before the river reaches the
cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it, until
but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 1,000 feet
below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls
is obtained from Lookout point, a narrow spit of rocks which pro-
jects from the main bluffs a short distance down the stream from
the falls. From this point Eagle rock rises before us, in the midst
of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high—
its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after
year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near the center
of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one
being called Ballard's island. Two rocky points, one on either
side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels, as they are ever over-
looking the "veil" and the "trail." Except in point of shape and
volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Niagara.
The river below the falls is very deep. The right bank sinks
into the water in a clear sharp precipice, but on the left side a
narrow pebbly beach extends along the foot of the cliff. From
. the top of the wall, at a point a quarter of a mile below the falls, a
stream has gradually worn a little stairway down to the river; thick
growths of evergreens have nestled together in this ravine. Under
the influence of the cool shadow'of the cliffs and the pines, and
constant percolating of surface waters, a rare fertility is developed
in the ravines opening upon the shore of the canon. A luxuriance
of ferns and mosses, an almost tropical wealth of green leaves and
velvety carpeting line the banks.
Immense volumes of foam roll up from the cataract base, and
whirl about in the eddying winds, rising often a thousand feet.
When the wind blows down the canon, a gray mist obscures the
river for half a mile; and when, as is usually the case in the after-
noon, the breeze blows eastward, the foam cloud curls over the
brink of the fall and hangs like a veil over the upper river. The
incessant roar, reinforced by a thousand echoes, fills the canon.
Niagara river falls 228 feet in 23 miles; Shoshone, f,00 in five miles.
In ravines, nooks and glens about the river and falls grow pines,
cedars, shrubs, grass, mosses, vines and, in season, countless flow-
ers, while hawks and bats make their home in the numberless
caves and crevices in the caiion walls.
To make this tour and visit the various objects of interest, at
least three days should be provided for.


208 GLENN'S KERRY—MOUNTAIN HOME.
AGAIN WESTWARD.
Return1ng to Shoshone—we start again for the west, fol-
lowing down Little Wood river, passing the small side-track
stations of Tunupa [nine miles] and Topon1s [six miles], where there
are two stores, a few settlers, farmers, stock-raisers, and hay
meadows, cross Wood river and reach
Bliss—[13 miles].—A small station, with one general merchan-
dise store and a few farmers and stock-growers in the vicinity.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast, once a week to Salmon Falls, 22
miles; Paynes, eight miles, and Bl1ss, six miles—all situated on the south side
of Snake river.
The canon cliffs of Snake river now appear on the left and our
train descends to the banks of that river, passing T1ceska [seven
miles], and K1ng's H1m, [eight miles], crossing Clover and Little
Camas creeks at their junction with the Snake, and skirting the
north bank and sloping bluffs of the Snake to a meal station
[eight miles]
Clenn'S Ferry—[Pop., 250; from Pocatello, 160 miles; elevation,
2,564 feet].—This station was named for the old ferry located near.
This ferry is one of the most frequented on Snake river. The
wagon roads from the north and from the south—Bruneau valley
country—center at this ferry. It is in Alturas county, the termi-
nus of two divisions of the railroad and a regular meal station for
all through trains. Two stores, several shops and saloons comprise
the town. The shipments are light—grain and wool principally.
Our train in leaving starts with a tandem team—two engines—
rolling along down the river to Medbury [u miles], where com-
mences the "Medford grade," climbing and serpentining around
the bluffs to REVErsE [nine miles], where one of the engines is left,
having gained an altitude, in nine miles, of 590 feet.
In climbing the "grade" several long curves are made around
the points of bluffs, affording extensive views of the country to the
south of the Snake as well as two and three parallel lines at a time
of the rail-track below, over which our train has been running
from Medbury to gain its present elevation.
Mountain Home—[Pop., 160; from Glenn's Ferry, 30 miles; eleva-
tion, 3,145 feet].—Is situated on a broad sage-brush plain, between
Canon and Rattlesnake creeks, in the midst of 100,000 acres of as
good agricultural land as Idaho can afford.
Some of these lands will raise crops without irrigation. Others
must be watered. A number of wind-mills are to be seen in oper-
ation itf* irrigating farms. Recently a company has commenced
building canals and ditches with a view of bringing under cultiva-
tion the greater portion of this immense tract, more than half of
which is yet government land, subject to entry under the general
land laws.
The station consists of two general stores, several restaurants,
shops and saloons, and two hotels—the Turner and Elsmore.
There are a number of good brick buildings. The shipments for
the year ending June 30th, 1889, amounted to 1,017 tons—of which
733 tons were wheat, and 177 tons wool.


NAMPA—IDAHO.
209
Mountain Home, from its natural position in the midst of great
agricultural and stock-raising advantages, has a future of much
greater promise than any station yet reached on the main line of
the railroad west of Pocatello.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to P1ne, 45 miles; thence north
to Rocky Bae, 20 miles; from thence, three times a week, mail hack to
Atlanta, 18 miles.
To the southward—Mail hack, three times a week to Bruneau Valley, 20
miles; thence northwest to Grand V1ew, 26 miles; thence west to Castle
Creek, 15 miles, and Oreana, eight miles.
From Bruneau Valley, southward to Three Creeks, So miles, once a week.
Leaving Mountain Home the direction is to the northwest across
the broad table lands named above, upon which "time cards"
name the following stations and distances between: C1<EFFT [u
ruilesj, NAMEKO [eight miles], BlSUKA [seven miles], OWYHEE [seven
miles], Mora [eight miles], on Indian creek, and
Kuiia_[Four miles; elevation, 2,684 feet].—This station is a very
small one situated at the western foot of the grade leading down
from the great table lands, in which Mountain Home is a center.
The grade commenced 12 miles east; the descent is 461 feet.
Kuua, before the railroad, was the most important stage station
on the stage road between Boise City to the northeast, and Silver
City and Winnemucca on the Central Pacific railroad, in Nevada,
230 miles distant.
Shipments for the year ending June 30, 1889, 411 tons, chiefly
wool, 61 tons; lumber, 60; ore, 14, and wheat, 12 tons.
\illll|ftcl—[Pop.,800, from Pocatello, 245 miles; Boise City, 19 miles, Cald-
well, seven miles; Huntington, Oregon, 88 miles; elevation, 2,487 feet].—Is 1n
Ada county, situated at the junction of the Idaho Central railroad
with the Oregon Short Line, on a broad plain which gradually
slopes away to the Snake river, 15 miles, southward. The town is
regularly platted and the streets graded. It contains three general
merchandise stores and an unusual n 1mber of stores and shops in
proportion to the size of the place. There are several hotels, chief
of which is the Barnard, and one weekly newspaper, the Progress.
The surrounding country is a broad sage brush plain with gentle
rolling hills, and with water for irrigation would be as productive
as any portion of the territory. The principal shipments are live
stock, lumber, wool, hides and wheat.
Connect1ons—By rail to Bo1se C1ty daily; by mail coach, south daily for
Walters, 18 miles; Reynolds, 14 miles; S1lver C1ty, 15 miles; thence west
to Jordan Valley, 24 miles.
From Jordan Valley south, once a week to Da1ry,120 miles.
From Nampa southwest to Central, 15 miles, once a week.

castle geyser.
f1re bas1n.
-2i


211 GRAND ENTERPRISE—GRAND VIEW.
BOISE, THE BEAUTIFUL!
Side Tour Bio. 13—From Nampa to Bo1se C1ty and
Bo1se Bas1n.
In making this tour we take the cars of the Idaho Central
ra1lroad which runs in connection with regular through trains
of the Oregon Short Line. The distance from Nampa to Boise
City is 19 miles over a broad sage brush plain on which are a few
settlers. The lands are very rich and productive when irrigated,
and a movement is now being made for that purpose as the follow-
ing will describe.
Grand Canal Enterpr1se—In the summer of 1888 a syndi-
cate of capitalists was formed at Cheyenne, Wyoming, with a
capital of $100,000, who proceeded at once to purchase certain
canal and ditch franchises for taking water from the Boise river at
a point above Boise City. The company immediately announced
their intention of building, enlarging and extending a system of
lands and ditches for irrigating purposes, to cover a great portion
of the lands between Boise City and Nampa, and also to supply
the town of Nampa with water. Should the company carry out
their announced plan it will bring under cultivation fully 100,000
acres of most desirable agricultural land, which means 10,000
additional population on the lands covered by the waters of the
canals and ditches within the next five years. Stimulated by the
active operations of the company, a large amount of these lands
was taken up by actual settlers during the fall, and doubtless will
all be taken up at an early day. When the enterprise was first
announced the title of nearly every acre under the canal level was
in the government, subject to appropriation under the general
land laws.
The train under the conductorship of Mr. Bliss is a perfect
bliss, it goes along lively and makes few and short stops. So just
as one is about to ask the name of a high range of mountains to
the left only a few miles away, you hear a Miss-full shout—"Boise!"
—Boise! what a charming word, full of poetry, beauty and pleas-
ant expectancy.
Grand V1ew—Alighting from the cars we are still upon a
broad elevated sage covered plain. To the south, the view is
obstructed by rolling grassy hills. To the eastward a long green
valley with the beautiful Boise river in its midst, glistening in
spots where it can be seen through the thick foliage like mam-
moth brilliants in the richest emerald settings; just beyond, but
really ten miles away, the Boise mountain range, and the black
basaltic walks at the mouth of Boise canon closes the scene.
Now a sweeping range of vision from the canon around to the
north and westward, in one immense semi-circle rises the beautiful
Boise range of mountains, slashed from summit to base by the
hand of the great architect, into numerous deep and dark ravines
and gulches, in the mouths of which, extending away back, are
beautiful little valleys, productive farms, fruitful orchards, com-
fortable farm houses and snug little cottages.
Along the whole base of this magnificent range of mountains is
a strip of green, one vast wilderness of foilage, extending up
the ravines and gulches, and in places up the mountain side, away
!


BOISE BASIN COUNTRY.
218
Some days of summer are warm, and in winter somewhat cold
on occasions, but sunshine is the rule and extremes are very
rare. The elevation is sufficiently high to obtain all the benefits
to be derived from a rarefied atmosphere, and bring perfect
healthfulness.
Hot Spr1ngs—These springs are situated five miles eastward
from Boise City in a charming little nook of the mountains,
reached by a good wagon road affording a most romantic drive
and views of grand and varied scenery, groves of lombards,
orchards, vineyards, farms, mills, river, valley and mountains.
These springs gush out of the mountain in a dozen places; some
are boiling hot, others are of lower temperature. Physicians com-
mend their medicinal properties in the very highest terms.
Here, in one of the loveliest valleys in the world, in close proxi-
mity to all the luxuries and comforts of life, are springs of medi-
cinal waters worthy to rank with—if not outranking—those of the
far-famed Arkansas or Carlsbad of Germany.
At this time only plain, rustic bathing accommodations are
provided at the springs, but we are informed by the owner, Judge
Milton Kelly,late veteran editor and proprietor of the Idaho Daily
Statesman, that a first-class hotel, extensive bath-houses, and a
number of cottages are among the improvements that will be made
at these springs at an early day. A line of street cars is also con-
templated between Boise City and the springs.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Idaho C1ty, 36 miles; thence,
north to Centrev1lle, ten miles; P1oneerv1lle, seven miles; thence south-
west to Placerv1lle, nine miles; thence northwest to Quartzburgh, four
miles.
From Boise City—Mail hack southeast, to Mayf1eld, 35 miles, once a
week.
From Boise City—Mail hack north, to Horseshoe Bend, 25 miles; thence
east to Placerv1lle, 20 miles, three times a week.
From Horseshoe Bend—Northwest, to Sweet, 12 miles; thence, north to Ola,
18 miles, three times a week.
From Idaho City—Mail hack northeast, to Banner, 28 miles, three times a
week. Also, from Idaho City, special *route to Gardner Valley, 12 miles.
flS^All of the above named towns, villages and mining camps
are tributary to the capital city for business, particularly those
in the
Bo1se Bas1n—This "basin" is in about the center of Boise
county, the principal towns being Quartzburgh, Ceuterville, Placer-
ville, Idaho City and Banner. The first gold discoveries in south-
ern Idaho were made in this "basin" in the summer of 1863, since
which time the yield of the rich placers have aggregated over
$30,000,000. Soon after the discovery of the placers, quartz veins
of surprising richness were discovered that now test the full ca-
pacity of 11 quartz mills, besides shipping a large amount of ore.
Some of the quartz lodes have been worked with great profit for
over 20 years and yet they are hardly prospected, as none of them
have been worked deeper than 300 feet.
Bo1se County, besides the great number of rich mines, con-
tains many thousand acres of rich agricultural land, watered by
the Boise and Payette rivers and their numerous tributaries. Dur-
ing 1889 the county produced of wheat, 75,000 bushels; oats, 25,000;
barley, 5,000; rye, 500; potatoes, 25,000; apples, 10,000. Its cattle
number 5,540 head; horses, 2,277; sheep, 2,862 head. It has eight


214 CAUWEXI,, IDAHO—ONTARIO, OREGON.
saw-mills and 12,000 acres of patented land. It also has a large
amount of government land subject to entry under the various
land laws. Idaho City, a thrifty mining town, is the county seat.
Ada County comprises about one-third agricultural, one-third
grazing and the other third mountainous and timbered lands;
elevation, from 2,500 to 10,000 feet. It contains a population of about
3,391) with an assessed valuation of $3,020,000. The stock inter-
ests are represented by 19,375 head of cattle, 35,000 sheep, 9,125
horses and 1,200 hogs. It contains 80,579 acres of patented land
and double that amount of government laud awaiting the settler.
Returning to Nampa we start once more for the west.
Caldwell—[Pop., 6o0; from Nampa, nine miles; Huntington, 73 miles;
elevation, 2,372 feet],—Is in Ada county, on the east bank of the Boise
river, in an agricultural section of country of unsurpassed fertility.
The town contains a number of large fine brick business blocks,
one bank and several establishments that do a business approxi-
mating $500,000 per annum. The Commercial, at the depot, and
the Haskell are the principal hotels. The Tribune is a weekly
newspaper. The town was laid out and settled in 1883 by the
Idaho & Oregon Improvement Co., of which ex-Senator Caldwell,
of Kansas, is president, and Mr. Robert E. Strahorn is manager.
For some years after the completion of the Oregon Short Line
Caldwell was a regular meal station, the railroad company having
here one of their largest hotels on the line of the road.
Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1889, 2,973 tons—of
which the two principal items were: Cattle, 2,074; wool, 166 tons.
Caldwell shipped 1,000 tons more cattle in the last season than any
station on the whole system west of Green river.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast to M1ddleton, six miles; thence east
to Star, seven miles. Also from Middleton north to Emmet, 12 miles; thence
northwest to Falks, 14 miles, and Payette, 16 miles, three times a week.
From Caldwell, ma1l southwest to Henderson, 12 miles, and Rockv1lle,
23 miles, once a week.
Leaving Caldwell the railroad crosses the Boise river in the
first mile, and then follows it down, passing some fine farms and
NOTUS [seven miles] and Parma [eight miles], two small stations.
Five miles beyond Parma we reach the Snake river, and crossing it
are in Oregon. From the crossing it is 12 miles to
Ontario—[Pop., 250; from Caldwell, 23 miles; Huntington, 50 miles].
Is in Malheur county, Oregon, on a broad sage-brush plain near
the western bank of Snake river, and but a short distance south-
ward from the junction of the Malheur river with the Snake.
There are two stores, an extensive lumber yard, hotel and a
large public hall, and a number of shops and saloons. The prin-
cipal industry in this vicinity is stock-raising—horses, sheep
and cattle.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: West daily to Vale, 16 miles.
From Vale—Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Glenn, nine
miles; Dell, nine miles; Malheur, 24 miles; Br1dgeport, seven miles; Clarks-
v1lle, four miles, and Baker C1ty, 30 miles.
From Bridgeport—Mail hack west, once a week to Herford, 16 miles.
From Vale—Mail hack westward, three times a week, to I.lano, 13 miles;
Bully, 15 miles; Beulah, 26 miles; Dhewsey, 20 miles; Harney, 36 miles, and
Burns, 14 miles.
From Burns—Mail hack southeast, once a week to Del Norte, 23 miles,
thence southeast to Bl1tzen, 32 m1les; thence southeast to D1amond, 18
miles; thence southwest to Plush, 83 miles, and Fort B1dwell 50 miles.
From Burns—Mail hack west, once a week to R1ley, 30 miles; thence
northwest to Kvergreen, 12 miles; Harden, 25 miles, and Paul1na, 13 miles.


PAYETTE—WEISER. 215
From Paulina—Mail hack west, once a week to Mowry, 12 miles and
Pr1nev1lle, 43 miles. Also from Paulina southeast, once a week to Stuart,
23 miles.
From Harden—Mail hack westward, oncea week to Pr1ce 25 miles; Crook,
15 miles; Pr1nev1lle, 30 miles—connecting at the latter with lines for the north
and west. -
Leaving Ontario we soon re-cross the Snake river and then a
branch of the Payette at WaSHO [two miles], a lumbering station,
and roll along through a fine agricultural section of country to
Payette—[Pop., 350; from Ontario, four miles]—In Ada county, sit-
uated on the north bank of Payette river just above its junction
with the Snake. It is the natural outlet for the rich agricultural
and stock-raising country bordering the Payette river and its num-
erous tributaries to the eastward. Payette has many natural ad-
vantages to make an important town in the near future. It now
has a number of fine business blocks, and a variety of mercantile
establishments. The Pence house is the principal hotel.
The Payette nursery is located just to the right after leaving
the depot. It contains 75 acres devoted to the growing of nursery
stock. In this nursery are growing a great variety of fruit, orna-
mental and nut trees, berries, vines, etc., also forest trees.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast, three times a week to Falks. 16
miles; Emmet, 14 miles; thence connecting as under "Caldwell" and "Boise
City."
Passing Crystal Spr1ngs—[six miles] a run along down the
Snake seven miles further brings our train to the last station in
Idaho of any importance—
Weiser—Pop., 700; from Payette, 13miles; Huntington, 23 miles].—The
seat ot Washington county, situated on the north bank of Weiser
river one mile to the east of the station. It contains one bank, a
flour-mill, brewery, general store and one weekly newspaper, the
Leader. The Weiser is the principal hotel.
The principal shipments are: Cattle, horses, sheep, wheat, oats,
barley and hay. The minor productions are fruit, vegetables, lum-
ber, wool and dairy products.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Sater, ten miles; M1ddle
Valley, 12 miles; Salubr1a, ten miles; thence east to Ind1an Valley, 13
miles.
From Indian Valley, mail hack south to Crane, 12 miles; also from Indian
Valley north to Rose, six miles; Counc1l Valley, f1ve miles; thence northeast
to Meadows, 35 miles, twice a week.
From Salubria, mail hack northwest to Spr1ng, four miles, and RuthburV,
16 miles, twice a week.
We1ser Valley, R1ver and Wash1ngton County.—The
main valley of the Weiser extends from the mouth of Weiser river
eastward to what is known as the canon, about 15 miles long and
one mile wide. The town of Weiser and the commercial center
of the county, is located near the foot of this valley. Nearly the
entire drainage of the country is through the Weiser river and its
tributaries, all of which rise and run wholly within the county,
making the county geographically a little world of its own.
The area of the county is about 3,000 square miles, of which
about one-fourth is timber, one-half mountain grazing of the best,
and the balance as rich and productive valley and bench land as
any in Idaho. The river has numberless little tributaries, each of
which runs through rich little valleys, chief of which are Monroe,
Manns, Crane, Middle, Salubria, Indian, Pine, Rush, Council, Big
Weiser, Little Weiser and Little Salmon.
Did you ever hear a Pacific coaster brag of their oysters?


BAKER CITY—EASTERN OREGON. 217
Huntington is a regular meal station, where trains stop 80
minutes. Here, too, we get a fresh "horse " to pull our" train up
onto the mountain.
Before the consolidation of the Oregon Short Line and the
Oregon Railway & Navigation Co.'s lines, we were wont to bear
at this station, "Change cars !" but it is no longer announced, as
cars of all classes run through to Portland.
It is reported several quartz mines have been recently discov-
ered within a short distance of the station that are very rich in
gold, and that those who made the discovery are arranging for
capital to erect works for reducing the ore.
Leaving Huntington the route is up Burnt river; the way in
places is narrow and the climb a heavy one. Old placers, fruit
orchards, cultivated patches, neat farm houses, rounded grass-cov-
ered bluffs, and rocky tunneled cliffs appear at intervals.
Weatherfoy—[From Huntington, 12 miles].—Is the first station,
and a small one.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast three times a week, toCoNnoR Creek,
19 miles.
Again climbing—more old placers, a few settlers, with hay
meadows, rocky ridges, grassy slopes, and stock-raisers. Then
Durkee [eight miles], hay ranch; Burnt river comes down from the
west (we are going northwest); mail to Express [twomiles] daily;
more farms; come to Alder creek and a big climb; go twisting
around on the mountain side in great curves looking up awAdown,
alternately, to the parallel tracks of the railroad—the route is very
tortuous and the scenery very much-mixed.
•' Passing Un1ty—[seven miles]—and a high trestle bridge; then
deep cuts, and a broken, rough country; get a peep to the right of
the pretty and productive lower Pleasant valley; again deep cuts
and a ragged country and then the station of
Pleasant Valley—[Eight miles].—In upper Pleasant valley, a
point for shipping lumber and ties. Again climbing, mid cuts and
curves, Enc1na [two miles] is passed, and NORTON [four miles], and
finally [six miles]
Baker City—[Pop., 4,000; from Huntington, 47 miles; Portland, 357
miles; elevation, 3,440 feet].—Seat of Baker county. Situated half mile
east from the depot, on Powder river, near the center of Powder
river valley, which is about 20 miles long and 16 miles wide, and
one of the most productive in eastern Oregon. The town contains
some large brick business blocks and stores of all kinds, some of
which do a very large business with the small towns and mining
camps tributary in the surrounding country. The churches num-
ber six and the school accommodations are first-class.
The business of the place is represented by two national banks,
one large flour mill, one brewery, saw mill, sash, door and blind
factory, planing mill, wagon and carriage works, a dozen hotels—
the Arlington the principal one—and five newspapers, the Demo-
crat and the Reveille, daily and weekly, and Tribune, weekly.
The court house is a very creditable building, and the Grand
Opera house seats nearly 800 people. Orchards of fruit are to be
seen, and many shade trees about the town. The chief industry is
connected with the mining business, which is carried on in the
surrounding country and in the mountains to a large extent. The
mines are placer and quartz lodes. Lumbering, farming and


218 GRAND RONDE VALI.EY.
stock-raising are also very important industries, and in the eastern
part of the county, on the Powder, fruit of all kinds and berries
do exceedingly well. The principal shipments are lumber, live-
stock, wool, wheat and ores.
Lately, rich mineral finds and new irrigating enterprises are
giving Baker a "big boom."
Connect1ons—The stage and mail connections at Baker City are very
numerous, indicating it to be a great business centre.
Mail coach leaves Baker City daily, to the southwest to Auburn, 12 miles;
Br1tten, eight miles; Aust1n, three miles: Pra1r1e C1ty, 17 miles, and John
Day, 14 miles; thence south to Canyon C1ty, two miles. Fare about 15 cents
per mile.
From Britten mail hack northwest, twice a week, to Sumpter, eight miles,
and Gran1te, 14 miles.
From Canyon City mail hack south, three times a week, to Blanton, 18
miles; Burns, 55 miles. See under "Ontario."
From John Day mail hack northwest, three times a week, to Fox, 18 miles;
thence north to Long Creek, six miles; thence northwest to Ham1lton, 12
miles, and Monmouth, ten miles.
From I.ong Creek special*service to R1tter, 15 miles,
From John Day ma1l hack west, three times a week, to Mount Vernon,
eight miles; Dayv1lle, 24 miles; Camp Watson, 18 miles; Caleb, ten miles, and
M1tchel, 11 miles.
From Baker City mail hack eastward, three times a week to Keat1ng, 21
miles; Sparta, 12 miles;! New Br1dge, ten miles; T1ne Valley, ten miles;
thence northwest to Halfway, seven miles, and Cornucop1a, seven miles. See
under " Union."
From Baker City mail hack southward, three times a week, toCLARKSVlLLe,
30 miles; thence west to Br1dgeport, four miles; thence south to Malheur,
seven miles. See under "Ontario."
From Bridgeport mail hack west, once a week, to Herford, 16 miles.
Leaving Baker City, grain fields, meadows, orchards, farm
houses and farms are passed in rapid succession, while rolling
across the broad valley of the Powder [ten miles] to Ha1nes,
where there are several stores and about 200 settlers, mostly en-
gaged in lumbering.
Crossing the North Powder river—extensively navigated by
logs and ties—we come to the station of
Nortll Powder—[Pop., 320; from Baker City, 20 miles].—Here the
principal productions and shipments are lumber, grain, live-stock
and wool.
Leaving the station, our direction is to the northeast, following
down the Powder a few miles to a point where that river enters a
canon, makes a grand curve back upon itself, and runs to the
southeast until it unites with the Snake river. The railroad en-
gineers disregarded the erratic course of the river in laying out
the line of the road, hence our train climbs the bluffs to the left
and enters a tunnel through a high rocky ridge which unites the
Powder river mountains on the east with the Blue mountains on
the west, separating the waters of the Powder from those of the
Grand Ronde.
The settlers now are mostly stock-raisers and lumbermen, yet
some little valleys are to be seen where grain f1elds and hay mead-
ows appear.
TelOCJISCt—[From Baker City, 30 miles; Union, ten miles].—Is a small
station for shipping lumber and live-stock. Skirting the moun-
tains, beautiful scenic views begin to appear; towering, timber-
covered mountains, snow sheds, pretty little valleys, neat farm
houses, rocky ridges, deep ravines, crossed by high bridges, all ap-
pear, as our train gradually descends the Blue mountains into the
largest and most productive valley in all eastern Oregon.
Grand Ronde Va1,uy—This valley contains over 300,000
acres of as rich level agricultural land as there is in the west. It is
all prairie land and of the best. The Grand Ronde river flows
through the valley from the south to the north aud northeast.


GARDEN SPOT OF OREGON. 219
Numerous small streams start from the everflowing springs in the
hills and mountains surrounding the valley that find their way to
the Grand Ronde—pure water being abundant in all parts of the
valley. The soil is generally alluvial and sandy loam, from two to
•ten feet in depth; subsoil usually gravel.
The soil is rich and produces wheat, oats, barley, rye, hops,
flax and hemp, hay, timothy and clover and native wild grasses,
vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, cucumbers, peas,
beans and other roots of all kinds; berries, currants, gooseberries,
strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and wild huckleberries
thrive, all remarkably; also fruit, apples, pears, plums, cherries,
and in some localities, peaches. Large quantities of hay are among
the shipments. From 25 to 60 bushels of wheat, 45 to 80 bushels
of oats and from 45 to 90 bushels of barley are raised per acre.
The stock interests is an important occupation of the settlers.
The mild winters, extensive ranges, productive grain and hay
lands, absence of contagious diseases, pure water everywhere,
makes this now, as it always will be, a choice location for stock-
raising. As fine horses as can be found on the Pacific coast are
raised here, also cattle, sheep and hogs. Fattening cattle for ship-
ment is a growing business. Dairy business is also important.
The land in Grand Ronde valley was principally state land,
and has been all sold. Although these lands have been sold the
proportion under cultivation will not exceed one-half. Little land
is offered for sale. Prices for improved land from $15 to $30 per
acre; unimproved from $6 to $15. Land in the foot-hills and small
valleys surrounding the Grand Ronde can be bought for from $6 to
$12 per acre; unimproved from $3 to $7. There are two principal
towns in the valley—Union, at the eastern end and LaGrande at
the western.
Game and F1sh—The mountain streams are stocked with fish.
The most common are salmon, red fish and trout. For game there
are deer, antelope, mountain sheep and bear. Grouse, chickens,
pheasants, ducks and geese delight the sportsman in search of
small game.
The view after first coming in sight of the Grand Ronde valley
as our train describes a half circle on the mountain side in its
descent into the valley, is exceedingly grand. The little town of
Union lies over beside the mountains to the east and across the
valley, three miles away, embowered in foliage in the midst of
which a church spire rises here and there; in the foreground, fine
fields, freckled with the abodes of the well-to-do settlers and their
flocks and herds.
Union—Station~\20 miles from Baker city].—Is two miles west
from the town of that name, but for all practical purposes the same.
Un1on—Is situated on Catherine creek, a small tributary of
Grand Ronde river, in the southeastern end of Grand Ronde val-
ley, and contains a population of about 850, most of whom are
engaged in stock-raising and farming. It is said the citizens rep-
resent a larger proportion of wealth than any town in Oregon of
equal size. Howbeit, they have two banks, fine brick business
blocks, stores representing every line of goods, a large grain ele-
vator, flouring mill, several hotels—the Union is the principal one,
and one weekly newspaper—the Scout. The principal shipments
are live-stock, wheat, flour and wool.


220 LAGRANDE, AND VICINITY.
8@° Some hot springs are just to the west of the depot, but
are not specially notable.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast daily to Cove, nine miles; also spec-
ial * service to Hot Lake, seven miles.
From Union: Mail hack southeast to Med1c1nal Spr1ngs, 20 miles;
Sanger, 14 miles, and Cornucop1a, 24 miles, three times a week. [See under
"BakerCity."]
Hot Lake—[From Union, four miles; LaGrande, nine miles].—Is a
station for a lake of the same name close to the left of the road,
covering about one acre of ground. The waters are very hot, but
no analysis could be obtained. Bath accommodations are provided
of limited dimensions. Report states the property has been pur-
chased by a strong company, who will build extensive baths, hotel,
etc., at an early day.
LilOrillldC—[Pop.,2,000; from Union, 13 miles; Portland, 305 miles].
In Union county, on the Grand Ronde river, in the northwestern
portion of the great Grand Ronde valley, heretofore described.
This place being the junction of divisions, the railroad company
have built here their round-houses and machine repair shops,
beside a large passenger depot and freight buildings.
Brick enters largely in the construction of the business blocks
and private residences. The town is built at the base of the Blue
mountains on a gradual slope, affording ample drainage for the
admirable system of water works which it possesses. The place
is amply provided with stores and shops of all kinds, all of which
appear to do a thriving business, as LaGrande is a great shipping
point for the farmers in the Grand Ronde valley, some of whom
come nearly 80 miles and do most of their trading where they ship
their products. LaGrande contains four churches, good schools,
a flouring-mill, saw-mill, sash, door and blind factory, planing
mill, one bank, a brewery, large opera house, a number of "tele-
phone" hotels and two weekly newspapers — the Gazette and
Register. The Blue Mountain University is located here, also the
U. S. land office. The LaGrande land district embraces Union,
Umatilla and portions of Grant and Baker counties. The business
of the office for the year ending June 30, 1889, amounted to 157,708
acres. This included final entries as well as new entries.
Shipments comprise all kinds of farm produce, live-stock, lum-
ber, fruit and gold. The wheat shipments alone amounted the
last season to a little over 360,000 bushels, at LaGrange and Union;
wool, 341,000 pounds; lumber, 4,680,000 feet; barley and rye,
160,000 bushels; butter and cheese, 300,000 pounds; the product
of potatoes, hay and vegetables was very heavy; also the live-
stock shipments.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: North daily to Island C1ty, five miles; S1rm-
merv1lle, 12 miles; thence northeast to Elg1n, nine miles; Elk Flat, seven
miles; thence east to Wollowa, 17 miles; thence .southeast to Lost1ne, eight
miles; Enterpr1se, nine miles, and Joseph, six miles.
From Joseph: Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Pra1r1e Creek,
six miles; also from Joseph, special * service to Arcad1a, 30 miles.
From Prairie Creek: Mail northeast, once a week, to Imnaha, 40 miles,
From Enterprise: Mail hack north to Teepy Spr1ngs, seven miles; Lost
pra1r1e, 30 miles; Anatona, 24 miles.
Summerv1lle—17 miles north of LaGrande, is a busy place,
and surrounded by as rich agricultural land as can be found any-
where. Mill creek furnishes water power to drive two flouring-
mills. Business enterprises required by a farming community are
represented.
I.


PENDI.ETON—INDIAN RESERVATION. 221
Leaving La Grande, our way leads up a small tributary of the
Grand Ronde river, and soon commences to climb the Blue moun-
tains. Scenery now rough and rugged is all that the route can
afford for the next 74 miles. The stations are all little side-tracks
with from ten to 50 settlers, most of whom are engaged in lumber-
ing, getting out railroad ties and cutting cordwood. The moun-
tains are very generally covered with timber, and the route of the
road very tortuous—in a number of places exceedingly crooked.
The stations on the "time card" are H1llgard [seven miles],
KAMEI.A [12 miles], MEACHAM [eight miles], LAKA [eight miles], NORTH
FORK [nine miles], MlKECHA [u miles], CAYUSE [ten miles]. From the
latter it is ten miles to
PdldlCtOn—[Pop., 3,750; from I.a Grande, 74 miles; Portland, 229
miles; Walla Walla, 47 miles; elevation, 1,070 feet].—Settled in 1869. Is
the seat of Umatilla county, situated on the south bank of the Uma-
tilla river, and protected by a levee 20 feet in height from the spring
floods; cost, $40,000. A system of water works, which cost $30,000,
supplies all needed water for domestic and fire department purposes.
Of churches there are six, and a school building that cost $20,000,
requiring ten teachers, with an average attendance of 600 scholars.
There are two national banks, two flouring-mills, one large farm
implement works, one planing-mill, two breweries, an opera house
seating 600, good fire department, several large lumber yards, rail-
road machine repair shops, two newspapers—the East Oregonian,
semi-weekly, and the Tribune, weekly—and an even half dozen
hotels, chief of which are the Villard and Golden Rule; the others
are "telephones."
Brick enters largely into the construction of buildings in Pendle-
ton, and many large brick business blocks are to be seen, as well as
private residences.
The rich country surrounding the town, together with the
natural trade center for a score of small hamlets and mining
camps, supports a great number of stores of all kinds. Stock-
raising is an important industry, but wheat makes the largest item
among the shipments.
The Umat11xa Ind1an Reservat1on borders Pendleton to
the east, and extends on to the timber slope of the Blue moun-
tains, comprising 268,000 acres. The greater portion of this tract
is the best agricultural land in eastern Oregon; the balance is
covered with fine timber. By a recent treaty with the Indians they
have agreed to accept lands in severalty and abandon the balance
to the government. Each Indian head of a family to be allotted
160 acres of agricultural land and 40 acres of timber land; each
person over 18 years of age, not included in the above, to have 80
acres, and each child under 18 years, 40 acres. The amount so
allotted will approximate 120,000 acres, leaving 148,000 acres to be
sold by the goyernment, which will probably be advertised and
sold at auction during the present year. The terms of sale will
be: Any person can buy 160 acres of agricultural and 40 acres of
timber lands, but he must buy it for an actual home, and must pay
one-third cash down and one-third in one year, and the last third in
three years, provided, 25 acres are cultivated and the purchaser lives
on the tract, so as to be able to prove up according to law. It is
estimated the land will bring from $10 to $50 per acre.
A ton of pure silver is valued at $37,704.80.


222 UMATILLA COUNTY—OREGON.
Connect1ons—By Rail: Walla Walla branch—north for all points.
Also, mail coach south, daily to P1lot Rock, 16 miles; thence west to Nye,
eight miles; V1nson, seven miles; Lena, 13 miles; Heppner, 16 miles; thence
northwest to Lex1ngton, nine miles; Pettysv1lle, six miles; Ione, four miles;
and Arl1ngton, 30 miles.
From Pilot Rock—Mail hack southward, twice a week to Evarts, 11 miles;
R1dge, five miles; and Alba, 12 miles.
From Alba—South, special * service to Dorman, 17 miles.
From Heppner—Mail hack southwest, twice a week to E1ghtm1le, 14
miles; thence southeast to Hardman, eight miles.
From Ione—Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Saddle, eight
mlies; thence northeast to Ella, ten miles.
Umat1lla County—of which Pendleton is the seat—contains
about 1,730,000 acres, and is the most extensive agricultural region
of eastern Oregon. About one-third of the area of the county is
occupied by the Blue mountains and their spurs, and are equally
valuable for the timber and grass, with which they are covered.
The other two-thirds of the county is in the main arable land,
though it is broken here and there by barren bluffs, steep hillsides
or patches of waste land, and, immediately along the Columbia
river, by a belt of sand from six to nine miles in average width.
The general character of the arable portion of the county is that
of heavily-rolling prairie.
The principal occupations are farming, stock-raising, wool-
growing and dairying. Formerly, when the country was sparsely
settled, stock and wool-raising were about the only industries.
The plains that are now largely converted into grain fields were
then covered with a luxuriant growth of bunch-grass, and this was
the stockman's paradise. It was believed the land was not adapted
to agriculture, and for many years any suggestion of grain-grow-
ing was received with incredulity and scorn. Gradually, however,
the plow has advanced, beginning in the northeastern portion of
the county, and pushing its way gradually but steadily and per-
sistently southward and westward, until the area left to the flocks
and herds is greatly diminished. Greatly to the surprise of old
settlers, the uplands were found far more prolific than the little
creek bottoms, and the higher the land, where the depth of soil is
sufficient, the greater is the fertility.
Wheat yields from 30 to 45 bushels to the acre. Vegetables of
all kinds do exceedingly well, as does fruit and all kinds of berries.
The climate is much milder than that several degrees further
south in the eastern states; neither are the excessive extremes of
heat and cold as protracted, seldom lasting but a few days. Strong
winds prevail for a while in spring, but rarely in winter, and any-
thing like cyclones are unknown. Though the soil is very light
and loose, and no rain falls during the summer months, no irri-
gation is necessary. There is no healthier spot on the continent
.
The Blue mountains afford an inexhaustible supply of pine, fir and
tamarack timber and an abundance of large game. The streams
abound in salmon and mountain trout.
Terms Heard on the Pla1ns.—"Lariat" is the Spanish name for rope;
"broncho." California or Spanish pony; "bueano" (wa-no), good; "esta
bueano" (star wa-no), very good—no better; "no sabe" (sarvey), don't under-
stand; "quien sabe" (kin sarvey), who knows, or do you understand?
Our various western books answer almost every conceivable question about
the great western country. Yet, for over 20 years, we have been in receipt of
from one to 20 letters each week during that "time, asking for further informa-
tion. Hereafter, as we are old, financ1ally "busted" and "played out," we
must advise all correspondents to buy the Tours and read up.
How much better we can bear other people's sorrows than our own. How
resigned we are at their bereavements, and how nobly we withstand their
temptations!


AWAY—NORTHWARD. 223
COME ALONG-TO SPOKANE: FALLS!
Side Tour No. 14.—From Pendleton to Walla Walla,
Dayton, Pomeroy, R1par1a, Lew1ston, Colfax, Moscow,
Farm1ngton and Spokane Falls.
Taking the regular through train of the "U. P. R'y from
Portland for the above-named places the direction is northeast,
crossing the Umatilla river in the first mile, and then up Wild
Horse creek. The creek bottom is narrow and the bluffs on each
side high, obscuring the view of the country beyond, but wheat and
live-stock are the chief productions along the whole line of this
tour to Walla Walla.
Adams—[pop., 350; from Pendleton, 13 miles].—Is a small station on
Wild Horse creek consisting of several general stores, three
churches and a good school. The settlers are all farmers and
stock-growers. Large warehouses and platforms for storing and
shipping grain.
Centerville—[Pop., 450; from Pendleton, 16 miles].—On Wild Horse
creek in the midst of immense wheat fields, the whole country
under cultivation. Large warehouses for storing and platforms for
shipping grain are here, also a number of stores, churches, hotels
and one weekly newspaper—the Centervillian.
For a background to the eastward Centerville has the long
dark timber-covered range of the Blue mountains.
Connect1ons—Rail: The Oregon & Washington Territory branch from
Wallula.
Leaving Centerville our train climbs a heavy grade for a few
miles and then descends to the little valley of Pine creek and
"Weston" is announced. Here is a fine depot for the town, one
mile away to the right.
Weston—Town—Contains a population of about 600, is one
mile from Weston station and five miles from Centerville. The
people are provided with a number of churches, schools, stores of
all kinds, planing-mill, a weekly newspaper—the Leader—and
several hotels. Wheat is the great staple.
Connect1ons—Special * mail service, southeast to Purdy, 33 miles.
From Weston station our tra1n crosses a long high bridge and
commences to climb another heavy grade. The route is very tor-
tuous running up on one side of a deep ravine to only head it off
and run down on the other side, showing parallel tracks one far
above the other. Between these tracks, at the lower end of the
great curve, is situated a platform for shipping wheat called
Blue Mounta1n, six miles from Weston by rail, but less than
two as the "bird would fly." Giving the "blue" station the go-by,
as all passenger trains do, we descend into the broad valley of
Walla Walla river, turn to the right and stop at
ITliltOn—[Pop., 450; from Pendleton, 37 miles; Walla Walla, 11 miles].
Is situated on the Walla Walla river which affords water-power for
running a large flour-mill, planing and shingle-mills. The town
is incorporated and contains a number of churches, good school,
stores of many kinds, an academy, business college, a weekly


208
GLENN'S FERRY—MOUNTAIN HOME.
AGAIN WESTWARD.
Return1ng to Shoshone—we start again for the west, fol-
lowing down Little Wood river, passing the small side-track
stations of TUNUPA [nine miles] and ToPONIS [six miles], where there
are two stores, a few settlers, fanners, stock-raisers, and hay
meadows, cross Wood river and reach
Bliss—[13 miles].—A small station, with one general merchan-
dise store and a few farmers and stock-growers in the vicinity.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast, once a week to Salmon Falls, 22
miles; Paynes, eight miles, and Bl1ss, six miles—all situated on the south side
of Snake river.
The canon cliffs of Snake river now appear on the left and our
train descends to the banks of that river, passing T1ceska [seven
miles], and K1ng's H11,i, [eight miles], crossing Clover and Little
Camas creeks at their junction with the Snake, and skirting the
north bank and sloping bluffs of the Snake to a meal station
[eight miles]
Glenn's Ferry—[Pop., 250; from Pocatello, 160 miles; elevation,
2,564 feet].—This station was named for the old ferry located near.
This ferry is one of the most frequented on Snake river. The
wagon roads from the north and from the south—Bruneau valley
country—center at this ferry. It is in Alturas county, the termi-
nus of two divisions of the railroad and a regular meal station for
all through trains. Two stores, several shops and saloons comprise
the town. The shipments are light—grain and wool principally.
Our train in leaving starts with a tandem team—two engines—
rolling along down the river to Meddury [n miles], where com-
mences the "Medford grade," climbing and serpentining around
the bluffs to Reverse [nine miles], where one of the engines is left,
having gained an altitude, in nine miles, of 590 feet.
In climbing the "grade" several long curves are made around
the points of bluffs, affording extensive views of the country to the
south of the Snake as well as two and three parallel lines at a time
of the rail-track below, over which our train has been running
from Medbury to gain its present elevation.
Mountain Home—[Pop., 160; from Glenn's Ferry, 30 miles; eleva-
tion, 3,145 feet].—Is situated on a broad sage-brush plain, between
Canon and Rattlesnake creeks, in the midst of 100,000 acres of as
good agricultural land as Idaho can afford.
Some of these lands will raise crops without irrigation. Others
must be watered. A number of wind-mills are to be seen in oper-
ation itf" irrigating farms. Recently a company has commenced
building canals and ditches with a view of bringing under cultiva-
tion the greater portion of this immense tract, more than half of
which is yet government land, subject to entry under the general
land laws.
The station consists of two general stores, several restaurants,
shops and saloons, and two hotels—the Turner and Elsmore.
There are a number of good brick buildings. The shipments for
the year ending June 30th, 18S9, amounted to 1,017 tons—of which
733 tons were wheat, and 177 tons wool.


NAMPA—IDAHO.
209
Mountain Home, from its natural position in the midst of great
agricultural and stock-raising advantages, has a future of much
greater promise than any station yet reached on the main line of
the railroad west of Pocatello.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to P1ne, 45 miles; thence north
to Rocky Bar, 20 miles; from thence, three times a week, mail hack to
Atlanta, 18 miles.
To the southward—Mail hack, three times a week to Bruneau Valley, 20
miles; thence northwest to Grand V1ew, 26 miles; thence west to Castle
Creek, 15 miles, and Oreana, eight miles.
From Bruneau Valley, southward to Three Creeks, So miles, once a week.
Leaving Mountain Home the direction is to the northwest across
the broad table lands named above, upon which "time cards"
name the following stations and distances between: C1<EFFT [n
milesj, NAMEKO [eight miles], BlSUKA [seven miles], OWYHEE [seven
miles], Mora [eight miles], on Indian creek, and
Kuiia—[Four miles; elevation, 2,684 feet].—This station is a very
small one situated at the western foot of the grade leading down
from the great table lands, in which Mountain Home is a center.
The grade commenced 12 miles east; the descent is 4<il feet.
Kuna, before the railroad, was the most important stage station
on the stage road between Boise City to the northeast, and Silver
City and Winnemucca on the Central Pacific railroad, in Nevada,
230 miles distant.
Shipments for the year ending June 30, 1889, 411 tons, chiefly
wool, 61 tons; lumber, 60; ore, 14, and wheat, 12 tons.
IVillllpa—[Pop., 800, from Pocatello, 245 miles; Boise City, 19 miles, Cald-
well, seven miles; Huntington, Oregon, 88 miles; elevation, 2,487 feet].—Is 1n
Ada county, situated at the junction of the Idaho Central railroad
with the Oregon Short Line, on a broad plain which gradually
slopes away to the Snake river, 15 miles, southward. The town is
regularly platted and the streets graded. It contains three general
merchandise stores and an unusual n 1mber of stores and shops in
proportion to the size of the place. There are several hotels, chief
of which is the Barnard, and one weekly newspaper, the Progress.
The surrounding country is a broad sage brush plain with gentle
rolling hills, and with water for irrigation would be as productive
as any portion of the territory. The principal shipments are live
stock, lumber, wool, hides and wheat.
Connect1ons—By rail to Bo1se C1ty daily; by mail coach, south daily for
Walters, 18 miles; Reynolds, 14 miles; S1lver C1ty, 15 miles; thence west
to Jordan Valley, 24 miles.
From Jordan Valley south, once a week to Da1ry,120 miles.
From Nampa southwest to Central, 15 miles, once a week.

CASTLE GEYSER.
FIRE BASIN.
13


21(1 GRAND ENTERPRISE—GRAND VIEW.
BOISE, THE BEAUTIFUL!
Side Tour Wo. 13—From Nampa to Bo1se C1ty and
Bolse Bas1n.
In making this tour we take the cars of the Idaho Central
ra1lroad which runs in connection with regular through trains
of the Oregon Short Line. The distance from Nampa to Boise
City is 19 miles over a broad sage brush plain on which are a few
settlers. The lands are very rich and productive when irrigated,
and a movement is now being made for that purpose as the follow-
ing will describe.
Grand Canal Enterpr1se—In the summer of 1888 a syndi-
cate of capitalists was formed at Cheyenne, Wyoming, with a
capital of $100,000, who proceeded at once to purchase certain
canal and ditch franchises for taking water from the Boise river at
a point above Boise City. The company immediately announced
their intention of building, enlarging and extending a system of
lands and ditches for irrigating purposes, to cover a great portion
of the lands between Boise City and Nampa, and also to supply
the town of Nampa with water. Should the company carry out
their announced plan it will bring under cultivation fully 100,000
acres of most desirable agricultural land, which means 10,000
additional population on the lands covered by the waters of the
canals and ditches within the next five years. Stimulated by the
active operations of the company, a large amount of these lands
was taken up by actual settlers during the fall, and doubtless will
all be taken up at an early day. When the enterprise was first
announced the title of nearly every acre under the canal level was
in the government, subject to appropriation under the general
land laws.
The train under the conductorship of Mr. Bliss is a perfect
bliss, it goes along lively and makes few and short stops. So just
as one is about to ask the name of a high range of mountains to
the left only a few miles away, you hear a bliss-fx\ shout—"Boise!"
—Boise! what a charming word, full of poetry, beauty and pleas-
ant expectancy.
Grand V1ew—Alighting from the cars we are still upon a
broad elevated sage covered plain. To the south, the view is
obstructed by rolling grassy hills. To the eastward a long green
valley with the beautiful Boise river in its midst, glistening in
spots where it can be seen through the thick foliage like mam-
moth brilliants in the richest emerald settings; just beyond, but
really ten miles away, the Boise mountain range, and the black
basaltic walks at the mouth of Boise canon closes the scene.
Now a sweeping range of vision from the caiion around to the
north and westward, in one immense semi-circle rises the beautiful
Boise range of mountains, slashed from summit to base by the
hand of the great architect, into numerous deep and dark ravines
and gulches, in the mouths of which, extending away back, are
beautiful little valleys, productive farms, fruitful orchards, com-
fortable farm houses and snug little cottages.
Along the whole base of this magnificent range of mountains is
a strip of green, one vast wilderness of foilage, extending up
the ravines and gulches, and in places up the mountain side, away


HERE IS BOISE. 211
up to the summit 2,000 feet above the valley. From our stand-
point at the depot this green materializes in towering pines and firs
and shrubs and grassy parks, interspersed with lofty crags, silvery
brooks and miniature cascades. It is a grand picture. But you ask
"Where 1s Bo1se?"—We will see—save only one "knight of
the whip," all the "busses" and carriages have gone from the
depot while we have been viewing the most magnificent landscape
in all Idaho.
Calling "his royal nibs" and taking a seat in his barouche, 500
yards brings us to the verge of the plain, 800 feet above and over-
looking Boise valley and river. The valley is nearly four miles
wide, and as far as one can see up and down the river from eight
to ten miles is one mass of foilage, bisected by the river, where in
places can be seen green meadows, golden fields of grain, large
farm houses, cozy little white cottages, with race-track, mills,
manufactories and the whole interspersed with orchards and vine-
yards in great profusion. Directly in front, across the river, shoot
up church spires, glistening domes and turrets. Yes, and there is
"Uncle Sam" and our starry flag. Here, in the midst of all, is
the beautiful, the lovely
Boise City—[Pop., 3,500; from Nampa, 19 miles; Omaha, 1,326 miles;
Portland, 504 miles; elevation, 2,800 feet].—Settled in 1863. Is the capital
of Idaho and the seat of Ada county, situated on the north side of
the Boise river just at the southern base of the Boise range of
mountains. The streets are wide and regular, lined on either side
with beautiful shade trees of almost every variety. Water flows
beside most of the streets and over the gardens and grounds of
the citizens. There are many fine private residences, most of
which are embowered in trees, orchards of fruit and vines, and
surrounded with grass and flowers. Co1ning to business Boise has
some of the finest brick business blocks in the west and scores of
large merchantile establishments, who do an immense business
with the mining towns and camps to the northward. It has an
efficient steam fire deparment, two flouring-mills, two saw-mills,
foundry and machine \. s, planing-mills, sash, door and blind
factory, one brewery, two banks, several hotels, chief of which
are the Overland and Centrrl, three newspapers—Statesman, daily
and weekly, and the Republican and Democrat, weeklies. The
city contains seven churches and a school building, occupying one
entire block, built of brick, 82x100 feet, four stories—cost $60,000;
there are ten teachers and 000 scholars.
The capitol building is a fine structure that cost $100,000; the
county court building cost $75,000.
Here is located a U. S. assay office, the building of which cost
$83,000, and the average annual business amounts to $1,000,000.
Here, too, is a U. S. land office and the offices of the governor,
surveyor-general and other territorial officials, besides a govern-
ment military post, U. S. penitentiary and signal service office.
Boise has its Board of Trade with 210 members, who are ever
laboring for the substantial advancement of their city; are ever
loyal, and glory in its history, but discourage a "boom."
Fru1t—Boise City and valley abound in fruit of all kinds.
Apples grow to an enormous size; we have seen many that weighed
30 ounces. One apple sent east for exhibition in September, 1888,
measured 18 inches in circumference and weighed 44 ounces.


212
INNOCENCE LOOKING-A-EEETEE OUT.
Electr1c1ty—Is used in Boise City in all its forms for lighting,
telephone, etc.; quite a number of adjoining towns and mining
camps are connected by telephone with Boise City.
Bo1se Barracks—Are situated close to the north of the city on
a gradual slope of the mountains, and were established for a two-
company post.
The reservation embraces a tract of land one mile square.
Lieut-Col. J. Green, 2d Cavalry, is in command. The garrison
consists of Troop D and company G, 4th Infantry.
Cl1mate—Meteorological data obtained from the U. S. signal
service officer at Boise City, September 20, 1888, for 11 years,
ending December 31, 1887, reads, as fellows: Mean monthly tem-
perature 50°.5; mean monthly rainfall 1.12 inches; mean hourly
velocity of wind 4. 3 miles. The lowest temperature in the history
of the station was 27°.8, on January 16, 1888.
Now these mean averages are about as deceptive to the
ordinary understanding as the make-up of a fashionable woman;
but on the whole the climate of Boise is about as equable and
agreeable as can be found anywhere, and owing to the usual
dryness of the atmosphere, it is very beneficial and healthful.


BOISK BASIN COUNTRY. 213
Some days of summer are warm, and in winter somewhat cold
on occasions, but sunshine is the rule and extremes are very
rare. The elevation is sufficiently high to obtain all the benefits
to be derived from a rarefied atmosphere, and bring perfect
healthfulness.
Hot Spr1ngs—These springs are situated five miles eastward
from Boise City in a charming little nook of the mountains,
reached by a good wagon road affording a most romantic drive
and views of grand and varied scenery, groves of lombards,
orchards, vineyards, farms, mills, river, valley and mountains.
These springs gush out of the mountain in a dozen places; some
are boiling hot, others are of lower temperature. Physicians com-
mend their medicinal properties in the very highest terms.
Here, in one of the loveliest valleys in the world, in close proxi-
mity to all the luxuries and comforts of life, are springs of medi-
cinal waters worthy to rank with—if not outranking—those of the
far-famed Arkansas or Carlsbad of Germany.
At this time only plain, rustic bathing accommodations are
provided at the springs, but we are informed by the owner, Judge
Milton Kelly,late veteran editor and proprietor of the Idaho Daily
Statesman, that a first-class hotel, extensive bath-houses, and a
number of cottages are among the improvements that will be made
at these springs at an early day. A line of street cars is also con-
templated between Boise City and the springs.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Idaho C1ty, 36 miles; thence,
north to Centrev1lle, ten miles; P1oneerv1lle, seven miles; thence south-
west to Placerv1lle, nine miles; thence northwest to Quartzburgh, four
miles.
From Boise City—Mail hack southeast, to Mayf1eld, 35 miles, once a
week.
From Boise City—Mail hack north, to Horseshoe Bend, 25 miles; thence
east to Placerv1lle, 20 miles, three times a week.
From Horseshoe Bend—Northwest, to Sweet, 12 miles; thence, north to Ola,
18 miles, three times a week.
From Idaho City—Mail hack northeast, to Banner, 28 miles, three times a
week. Also, from Idaho City, special *route to Gardner Valley, 12 miles.
8@?"All of the above named towns, villages and mining camps
are tributary to the capital city for business, particularly those
in the
Bo1sf, Bas1n—This "basin" is in about the center of Boise
county, the principal towns being Quartzburgh, Ceuterville, Placer-
ville, Idaho City and Banner. The first gold discoveries in south-
ern Idaho were made in this "basin" in the summer of 1863, since
which time the yield of the rich placers have aggregated over
$30,000,000. Soon after the discovery of the placers, quartz veins
of surprising richness were discovered that now test the full ca-
pacity of yv quartz mills, besides shipping a large amount of ore.
Some of the quartz lodes have been worked with great profit for
over 20 years and yet they are hardly prospected, as none of them
have been worked deeper than 300 feet.
Bo1se County, besides the great number of rich mines, con-
tains many thousand acres of rich agricultural land, watered by
the Boise and Payette rivers and their numerous tributaries. Dur-
ing 1889 the county produced of wheat, 75,000 bushels; oats, 25,000;
barley, 5,000; rye, 500; potatoes, 25,000; apples, 10,000. Its cattle
number 5,540 head; horses, 2,277; sheep, 2,862 head. It has eight


214 CALDWEU,, IDAHO—ONTARIO, OREGON.
saw-mills and 12,000 acres of patented land. It also has a large
amount of government land subject to entry under the various
land laws. Idaho City, a thrifty mining town, is the county seat.
Ada County comprises about one-third agricultural, one-third
grazing and the other third mountainous and timbered lands;
elevation, from 2,500 to 10,000 feet. It contains a population of about
3,391) with an assessed valuation of $3,020,000. The stock inter-
ests are represented by 19,375 head of cattle, 35,000 sheep, 9,125
horses and 1,200 hogs. It contains 80,579 acres of patented laud
and double that amount of government laud awaiting the settler.
Returning to Nampa we start once more for the west.
CillclWCll—[Pop., 6o0; from Nampa, nine miles; Huntington, 73 miles;
elevation, 2,372 feet],—Is in Ada county, on the east bank of the Boise
river, in an agricultural section of country of unsurpassed fertility.
The town contains a number of large fine brick business blocks,
one bank and several establishments that do a business approxi-
mating $500,000 per annum. The Commercial, at the depot, and
the Haskell are the principal hotels. The Tribune is a weekly
newspaper. The town was laid out and settled in 1883 by the
Idaho & Oregon Improvement Co., of which ex-Senator Caldwell,
of Kansas, is president, and Mr. Robert E. Strahorn is manager.
For some years after the completion of the Oregon Short Line
Caldwell was a regular meal station, the railroad company having
here one of their largest hotels on the line of the road.
Shipments for the year ending June 30th, 1889, 2,973 tons—of
which the two principal items were: Cattle, 2,074; wool, 166 tons.
Caldwell shipped 1,000 tons more cattle in the last season than any
station on the whole system west of Green river.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast to M1ddle-ton, six miles; thence east
to Star, seven miles. Also from Middleton north to Emmet, 12 miles; thence
northwest to Falks, \ miles, and Payette, 16 miles, three times a week.
From Caldwell, ma1l southwest to Henderson, 12 miles, and Rockv1lle,
23 miles, once a week.
Leaving Caldwell the railroad crosses the Boise river in the
first mile, and then follows it down, passing some fine farms and
NoTUS [seven miles! and Parma [eight miles], two small stations.
Five miles beyond Parma we reach the Snake river, and crossing it
are in Oregon. From the crossing it is 12 miles to
Ontario—[Pop., 250; from Caldwell, 23 miles; Huntington, 50 miles].
Is in Malheur county, Oregon, on a broad sage-brush plain near
the western bank of Snake river, and but a short distance south-
ward from the junction of the Malheur river with the Snake.
There are two stores, an extensive lumber yard, hotel and a
large public hall, and a number of shops and saloons. The prin-
cipal industry in this vicinity is stock-raising—horses, sheep
and cattle.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: West daily to Vale, 16 miles.
From Vale—Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Glenn, nine
miles; Dell, nine miles; Malheur, 24 miles; Br1dgeport, seven miles; Clarks-
v1lle, four miles, and Raker C1ty, 30 miles.
From Bridgeport—Mail hack west, once a week to Herford, 16 miles.
From Vale—Mail hack westward, three times a week, to Llano, 13 miles;
Bully, 15 miles; Beulah, 26 miles; Drewsey, 20 miles; Harney, 36 miles, and
Burns, 14 miles.
From Burns—Mail hack southeast, once a week to Del Norte, 23 miles,
thence southeast to Bl1tzen, 32 miles; thence southeast to D1amond, 18
miles; thence southwest to Plush, 83 miles, and Fort B1dwell 50 miles.
From Burns—Mail hack west, once a week to R1ley, 30 miles; thence
northwest to Evergreen, 12 miles; Harden, 25 miles, and Paul1na, 13 miles.


PAYETTE—WEISER. 215
From Paulina—Mail hack west, once a week to Mowry, 12 miles and
Pr1nev1lle, 43 miles. Also from Paulina southeast, once a week to Stuart,
23 miles.
From Harden—Mail hack westward, once a week to Pr1ce 25 miles; Crook,
15 miles; Pr1nev1lle, 30 miles—connecting at the latter with lines for the north
and west. -
Leaving Ontario we soon re-cross the Snake river and then a
branch of the Payette at Washo [two miles], a lumbering station,
and roll along through a fine agricultural section of country to
Payette—[Pop., 350; from Ontario, four miles]—In Ada county, sit-
uated on the north bank of Payette river just above its junction
with the Snake. It is the natural outlet for the rich agricultural
and stock-raising country bordering the Payette river and its num-
erous tributaries to the eastward. Payette has many natural ad-
vantages to make an important town in the near future. It now
has a number of fine business blocks, and a variety of mercantile
establishments. The Pence house is the principal hotel.
The Pa}'ette nursery is located just to the right after leaving
the depot. It contains 75 acres devoted to the growing of nursery
stock. In this nursery are growing a great variety of fruit, orna-
mental and nut trees, berries, vines, etc., also forest trees.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Southeast, three times a week to Falks. 16
miles; Emmet, 14 miles; thence connecting as under "Caldwell" and "Boise
City."
Passing Crystal Spr1ngs—[six miles] a run along down the
Snake seven miles further brings our train to the last station in
Idaho of any importance—
WeiSCr—Pop., 700; from Payette, 13miles; Huntington, 23 miles].—The
seat ot Washington county, situated on the north bank of Weiser
river one mile to the east of the station. It contains one bank, a
flour-mill, brewery, general store and one weekly newspaper, the
Leader. The Weiser is the principal hotel.
The principal shipments are: Cattle, horses, sheep, wheat, oats,
barley and hay. The minor productions are fruit, vegetables, lum-
ber, wool and dairy products.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Northeast, daily to Sater, ten miles; M1ddle
Valley, 12 miles; Saluhr1a, ten miles; thence east to Ind1an Valley, 13
miles.
From Indian Valley, mail hack south to Crane, 12 miles; also from Indian
Valley north to Rose, six miles; Counc1l Valley, live miles; thence northeast
to Meadows, 35 miles, twice a week.
From Salubria, mail hack northwest to Spr1ng, fjur miles, and RuthburV,
16 miles, twice a week.
We1ser Valley, R1ver and Wash1ngton County.—The
main valley of the Weiser extends from the mouth of Weiser river
eastward to what is known as the canon, about 15 miles long and
one mile wide. The town of Weiser and the commercial center
of the county, is located near the foot of this valley. Nearly the
entire drainage of the country is through the Weiser liver and its
tributaries, all of which rise and run wholly within the county,
making the county geographically a little world of its own.
The area of the county is about 3,000 square miles, of which
about one-fourth is timber, one-half mountain grazing of the best,
and the balance as rich and productive valley and bench land as
any in Idaho. The river has numberless little tributaries, each of
which runs through rich little valleys, chief of which are Monroe,
Manns, Crane, Middle, Salubria, Indian, Pine, Rush, Council, Big
Weiser, Little Weiser and Little Salmon.
Did you ever hear a Pacif1c coaster brag of their oysters?


BAKER CITY—EASTERN OREGON. 217
Huntington is a regular meal station, where trains stop 30
minutes. Here, too, we get a fresh "horse " to pull our train up
onto the mountain.
Before the consolidation of the Oregon Short Line and the
Oregon Railway & Navigation Co.'s lines, we were wont to hear
at this station, "Change cars !" but it is no longer announced, as
cars of all classes ruu through to Portland.
It is reported several quartz mines have been recently discov-
ered within a short distance of the station that are very rich in
gold, and that those who made the discovery are arranging for
capital to erect works for reducing the ore.
Leaving Huntington the route is up Burnt river; the way in
places is narrow and the climb a heavy one. Old placers, fruit
orchards, cultivated patches, neat farm houses, rounded grass-cov-
ered bluffs, and rocky tunneled cliffs appear at intervals.
Weatherhy—[From Huntington, 12 miles].—Is the first station,
and a small one.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast three times a week, to Connor Creek,
19 miles. -
Again climbing—more old placers, a few settlers, with hay
meadows, rocky ridges, grassy slopes, and stock-raisers. Then
DuRKEE [eight miles], hay ranch; Burnt river comes down from the
west (we are going northwest); mail to Express [two miles] daily;
more farms; come to Alder creek and a big climb; go twisting
around on the mountain side in great curves looking up and down,
alternately, to the parallel tracks of the railroad—the route is very
tortuous and the scenery very much-mixed.
'Passing Un1ty—[seven miles]—and a high trestle bridge; then
deep cuts, and a broken, rough country; get a peep to the right of
the pretty and productive lower Pleasant valley; again deep cuts
and a ragged country and then the station of
Pleasant Valley—[Eight miles].—In upper Pleasant valley, a
point for shipping lumber and ties. Again climbing, mid cuts and
curves, Enc1na [two miles] is passed, and NORTON [four miles], and
finally [six miles]
Baker Citj'—[Pop., 4,000; from Huntington, 47 miles; Portland, 357
miles; elevation, 3,440 feet].—Seat of Baker county. Situated half mile
east from the depot, on Powder river, near the center of Powder
river valley, which is about 20 miles long and 16 miles wide, and
one of the most productive in eastern Oregon. The town contains
some large brick business blocks and stores of all kinds, some of
which do a very large business with the small towns and mining
camps tributary in the surrounding country. The churches num-
ber six and the school accommodations are first-class.
The business of the place is represented by two national banks,
one large flour mill, one brewery, saw mill, sash, door and blind
factory, planing mill, wagon and carriage works, a duzen hotels—
the Arlington the principal one—and five newspapers, the Demo-
crat and the Reveille, daily and weekly, and Tribune, weekly.
The court house is a very creditable building, and the Grand
Opera house seats nearly 800 people. Orchards of fruit are to be
seen, and many shade trees about the town. The chief industry is
connected with the mining business, which is carried on in the
surrounding country and in the mountains to a large extent. The
mines are placer and quartz lodes. Lumbering, farming and


218 GRAND RONDE VALLEY.
stock-raising are also very important industries, and in the eastern
part of "the county, on the Powder, fruit of all kinds and berries
do exceedingly well. The principal shipments are lumber, live-
stock, wool, wheat and ores.
Lately, rich mineral finds and new irrigating enterprises are
giving Baker a "big boom."
Connect1ons—The stage and mail connections at Baker City are very
numerous, indicating it to be a great business centre.
Mail coach leaves Baker City daily, to the southwest to Auburn, 12 miles;
Br1tten, eight miles; Aust1n, three miles; Pra1r1e C1ty, 17 miles, and John
Day, 14 miles; thence south to Canyon C1ty, two miles. Fare about 15 cents
per mile.
From Britten mail hack northwest, twice a week, to Sumpter, eight miles,
and Gran1te, 14 miles.
From Canyon C.ty mail hack south, three times a week, to Blanton, 18
miles; Burns, 55 miles. See under "Ontario."
From John Day mail hack northwest, three times a week, to Fox, 18 miles;
thence north to Long Creek, six miles; thence northwest to Ham1lton, 12
miles, and Monmouth, ten miles.
From Long Creek special*service to R1tter, 15 miles,
From John Day ma1l hack west, three times a week, to Mount Vernon,
eight miles; Dayv1lle, 24 miles; Camp Watson, 18 miles; Caleb, ten miles, and
M1tchel, 11 miles.
From Baker City mail hack eastward, three times a week to Keat1ng, 21
miles; Sparta, 12 miles;! New Br1dge, ten miles; P1ne Valley, ten miles;
thence northwest to Halfway, seven miles, and Cornucop1a, seven miles. See
under " Union."
From Baker City mail hack southward, three times a week, toCLARKSV1Lle,
30 miles; thence west to Br1dgeport, four miles; thence south to Malheur,
seven miles. See under "Ontario."
From Bridgeport mail hack west, once a week, to Herford, 16 miles.
Leaving Baker City, grain fields, meadows, orchards, farm
houses and farms are passed in rapid succession, while rolling
across the broad valley of the Powder [ten miles] to Ha1nes,
where there are several stores and about 200 settlers, mostly en-
gaged in lumbering.
Crossing the North Powder river—extensively navigated by
logs and ties—we come to the station of
Nortll Powder—[Pop., 320; from Baker City, 20 miles].— Here the
principal productions and shipments are lumber, graiu, live-stock
and wool.
Leaving the station, our direction is to the northeast, following
down the Powder a few miles to a point where that river enters a
canon, makes a grand curve back upon itself, and runs to the
southeast until it unites with the Snake river. The railroad en-
gineers disregarded the erratic course of the river in laying out
the line of the road, hence our train climbs the bluffs to the left
and enters a tunnel through a high rocky ridge which unites the
Powder river mountains on the east with the Blue mountains on
the west, separating the waters of the Powder from those of the
Grand Ronde.
The settlers now are mostly stock-raisers and lumbermen, yet
some little valleys are to be seen where graiu fields and hay mead-
ows appear.
TelOCaset—[From Baker City, 30 miles; Union, ten miles].—Is a small
station for shipping lumber and live-stock. Skirting the moun-
tains, beautiful scenic views begin to appear; towering, timber-
covered mountains, snow sheds, pretty little valleys, neat farm
houses, rocky ridges, deep ravines, crossed by high bridges, all ap-
pear, as our train gradually descends the Blue mountains into the
largest and most productive valley in all eastern Oregon.
Grand Ronde Valley—This valley contains over 300,000
acres of as rich level agricultural laud as there is in the west. It is
all prairie land and of the best. The Grand Ronde river flows
through the valley from the south to the north and northeast.


GARDEN SPOT OP OREGON. 219
Numerous small streams start from the everflowing springs in the
hills and mountains surrounding the valley that find their way to
the Grand Ronde—pure water being abundant in all parts of the
valley. The soil is generally alluvial and sandy loam, from two to
"ten feet in depth; subsoil usually gravel.
The soil is rich and produces wheat, oats, barley, rye, hops,
flax and hemp, hay, timothy and clover and native wild grasses,
vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips, cucumbers, peas,
beans and other roots of all kinds; berries, currants, gooseberries,
strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and wild huckleberries
thrive, all remarkably; also fruit, apples, pears, plums, cherries,
and in some localities, peaches. Large quantities of hay are among
the shipments. From 25 to 60 bushels of wheat, 45 to 80 bushels
of oats and from 45 to 90 bushels of barley are raised per acre.
The stock interests is an important occupation of the settlers.
The mild winters, extensive ranges, productive grain and hay
lands, absence of contagious diseases, pure water everywhere,
makes this now, as it always will be, a choice location for stock-
raising. As fine horses as can be found on the Pacific coast are
raised here, also cattle, sheep and hogs. Fattening cattle for ship-
ment is a growing business. Dairy business is also important.
The land in Grand Ronde valley was principally state land,
and has been all sold. Although these lands have been sold the
proportion under cultivation will not exceed one-half. Little land
is offered for sale. Prices for improved land from $15 to $30 per
acre; unimproved from $6 to $15. Land in the foot-hills and small
valleys surrounding the Grand Ronde can be bought for from $6 to
$12 per acre; unimproved from $3 to $7. There are two principal
towns in the valley—Union, at the eastern end and LaGrande at
the western.
Game and F1sh—The mountain streams are stocked with fish.
The most common are salmon, red fish and trout. For game there
are deer, antelope, mountain sheep and bear. Grouse, chickens,
pheasants, ducks and geese delight the sportsman in search of
small game.
The view after first coming in sight of the Grand Ronde valley
as our train describes a half circle on the mountain side in its
descent into the valley, is exceedingly grand. The little town of
Union lies over beside the mountains to the east and across the
valley, three miles away, embowered in foliage in the midst of
which a church spire rises here and there; in the foreground, fine
fields, freckled with the abodes of the well-to-do settlers and their
flocks and herds.
Union—Station- [20 miles from Baker City].—Is two miles west
from the town of that name, but for all practical purposes the same.
Un1on—Is situated on Catherine creek, a small tributary of
Grand Ronde river, in the southeastern end of Grand Ronde val-
ley, and contains a population of about 850, most of whom are
engaged in stock-raising and farming. It is said the citizens rep-
resent a larger proportion of wealth than any town in Oregon of
equal size. Howbeit, they have two banks, fine brick business
blocks, stores representing every line of goods, a large grain ele-
vator, flouring mill, several hotels—the Union is the principal one,
and one weekly newspaper—the Scout. The principal shipments
are live-stock, wheat, flour and wool.


220 LAGRANDE AND VICINITY.
Some hot springs are just to the west of the depot, but
are not specially notable.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: Northeast daily to Cove, nine miles; also spec-
ial * service to Hot Lake, seven miles.
From Union: Mail hack southeast to Med1c1nal Spr1ngs, 20 miles;
Sanger, 14 miles, and Cornucop1a, 24 miles, three times a week. [See under
"BakerCity."]
Hot Lake—[From Union, four miles; LaGrande, nine miles].—Is a
station for a lake of the same name close to the left of the road,
covering about one acre of ground. The waters are very hot, but
no analysis could be obtained. Bath accommodations are provided
of limited dimensions. Report states the property has been pur-
chased by a strong company, who will build extensive baths, hotel,
etc., at an early day.
LaOritlldC—[Pop., 2,000; from Union, 13 miles; Portland, 305 miles].
In Union county, on the Grand Ronde river, in the northwestern
portion of the great Grand Ronde valley, heretofore described.
This place being the junction of divisions, the railroad company
have built here their round-houses and machine repair shops,
beside a large passenger depot and freight buildings.
Brick enters largely in the construction of the business blocks
and private residences. The town is built at the base of the Blue
mountains on a gradual slope, affording ample drainage for the
admirable system of water works which it possesses. The place
is amply provided with stores and shops of all kinds, all of which
appear to do a thriving business, as LaGrande is a great shipping
point for the farmers in the Grand Ronde valley, some of whom
come nearly 80 miles and do most of their trading where they ship
their products. LaGrande contains four churches, good schools,
a flouring-mill, saw-mill, sash, door and blind factory, planing
mill, one bank, a brewery, large opera house, a number of "tele-
phone" hotels and two weekly newspapers — the Gazette and
Register. The Blue Mountain University is located here, also the
U. S. land office. The LaGrande land district embraces Union,
Umatilla and portions of Grant and Baker counties. The business
of the office for the year ending June 30, 18R9, amounted to 157,708
acres. This included final entries as well as new entries.
Shipments comprise all kinds of farm produce, live-stock, lum-
ber, fruit and gold. The wheat shipments alone amounted the
last season to a little over 360,000 bushels, at LaGrange and Union;
wool, 341,000 pounds; lumber, 4,680,000 feet; barley and rye,
160,000 bushels; butter and cheese, 300,000 pounds; the product
of potatoes, hay and vegetables was very heavy; also the live-
stock shipments.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: North daily to Island C1ty, five miles; Sum-
merv1lle, 12 miles; thence northeast to Elg1n, nine miles; Elk Flat, seven
miles; thence east to Wollowa, 17 miles; thence .southeast to Lost1ne, eight
miles; Enterpr1se, nine miles, and Joseph, six miles.
From Joseph: Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Pra1r1e Creek,
six miles; also from Joseph, special * service to Arcad1a, 30 miles.
From Prairie Creek: Ma1l northeast, once a week, to Imnaha, 40 miles,
From Enterprise: Mail hack north to Teepy Spr1ngs, seven miles; Lost
Pra1r1e, 30 miles; Anatona, 24 miles.
SuMMERVILLE—17 miles north of LaGrande, is a busy place,
and surrounded by as rich agricultural land as can be found any-
where. Mill creek furnishes water power to drive two flouring-
mills. Business enterprises required by a farming community are
represented.


PENDLETON—INDIAN RESERVATION. 221
Leaving La Grande, our way leads up a small tributary of the
Grand Ronde river, and soon commences to climb the Blue moun-
tains. Scenery now rough and rugged is all that the route can
afford for the next 74 miles. The stations are all little side-tracks
with from ten to 50 settlers, most of whom are engaged in lumber-
ing, getting out railroad ties and cutting cordwood. The moun-
tains are very generally covered with timber, and the route of the
road very tortuous—in a number of places exceedingly crooked.
The stations on the "time card" are H1llgard [seven miles],
KAMELA [12 miles], MEACHAM [eight miles], Laka [eight miles], NORTH
FORK [nine miles], MlKECHA [n miles], CAYUSE [ten miles]. From the
latter it is ten miles to
PendletOll—[Pop., 3,750; from La Grande, 74 miles; Portland, 229
miles; Walla Walla, 47 miles; elevation, 1,070 feet].—Settled in 1869. Is
the seat of Umatilla county, situated on the south bank of the Uma-
tilla river, and protected by a levee 20 feet in height from the spring
floods; cost, $40,000. A system of water works, which cost $30,000,
supplies all needed water for domestic and fire department purposes.
Of churches there are six, and a school building that cost $20,000,
requiring ten teachers, with an average attendance of 600 scholars.
There are two national banks, two flouriug-mills, one large farm
implement works, one planing-mill, two breweries, an opera house
seating 600, good fire department, several large lumber yards, rail-
road machine repair shops, two newspapers—the East Oregonian,
semi-weekly, and the Tribune, weekly—and an even half dozen
hotels, chief of which are the Villard and Golden Rule; the others
are "telephones."
Brick enters largely into the construction of buildings in Pendle-
ton, and many large brick business blocks are to be seen, as well as
private residences.
The rich country surrounding the town, together with the
natural trade center for a score of small hamlets and mining
camps, supports a great number of stores of all kinds. Stock-
raising is an important industry, but wheat makes the largest item
among the shipments.
The Umat1lla Ind1an Reservat1on borders Peudleton to
the east, and extends on to the timber slope of the Blue moun-
tains, comprising 268,000 acres. The greater portion of this tract
is the best agricultural land in eastern Oregon; the balance is
covered with fine timber. By a recent treaty with the Indians they
have agreed to accept lands in severalty and abandon the balance
to the government. Each Indian head of a family to be allotted
160 acres of agricultural land and 40 acres of timber land; each
person over 18 years of age, not included in the above, to have 80
acres, and each child under 18 years, 40 acres. The amount so
allotted will approximate 120,000 acres, leaving 148,000 acres to be
sold by the government, which will probably be advertised and
sold at auction during the present year. The terms of sale will
be: Any person can buy 160 acres of agricultural and 40 acres of
timber lands, but he must buy it for an actual home, and must pay
one-third cash down and one-third in one year, and the last third in
three years, provided, 25 acres are cultivated and the purchaser lives
on the tract, so as to be able to prove up according to law. It is
estimated the land will bring from $10 to $50 per acre.
A ton of pure silver is valued at $37,704.80.


222 UMATILLA COUNTY—OREGON.
Connect1ons—By Rail: Walla Walla branch—north for all points.
Also, mail coach south, daily to P1lot Rock, 16 miles; thence west to Nye,
eight miles; V1nson, seven miles; Lena, 13 miles; Heppner, 16 miles; thence
northwest to Lex1ngton, nine miles; Pettysv1lle, six miles; Ione, four miles;
and Arl1ngton, 30 miles.
From Pilot Rock—Mail hack southward, twice a week to Evarts, 1 1 miles;
R1dge, five miles; and Alba, 12 miles.
From Alba—South, special * service to Dorman, 17 miles.
From Heppner—Mail hack southwest, twice a week to E1ghtm1le, 14
miles; thence southeast to Hardman, eight miles.
From Ione—Mail hack northwest, three times a week to Saddle, eight
mlies; thence northeast to Ella, ten miles.
Umat1lla County—of which Pendleton is the seat—contains
about 1,730,000 acres, and is the most extensive agricultural region
of eastern Oregon. About one-third of the area of the county is
occupied by the Blue mountains and their spurs, and are equally
valuable for the timber and grass, with which they are covered.
The other two-thirds of the county is in the main arable land,
though it is broken here and there by barren bluffs, steep hillsides
or patches of waste land, and, immediately along the Columbia
river, by a belt of sand from six to nine miles in average width.
The general character of the arable portion of the county is that
of heavily-rolling prairie.
The principal occupations are farming, stock-raising, wool-
growing and dairying. Formerly, when the country was sparsely
settled, stock and wool-raising were about the only industries.
The plains that are now largely converted into grain fields were
then covered with a luxuriant growth of bunch-grass, and this was
the stockman's paradise. It was believed the land was not adapted
to agriculture, and for many years any suggestion of grain-grow-
ing was received with incredulity and scorn. Gradually, however,
the plow has advanced, beginning in the northeastern portion of
the county, and pushing its way gradually but steadily and per-
sistently southward and westward, until the area left to the flocks
and herds is greatly diminished. Greatly to the surprise of old
settlers, the uplands were found far more prolific than the little
creek bottoms, and the higher the land, where the depth of soil is
sufficient, the greater is the fertility.
Wheat yields from 30 to 45 bushels to the acre. Vegetables of
all kinds do exceedingly well, as does fruit and all kinds of berries.
The climate is much milder than that several degrees further
south in the eastern states; neither are the excessive extremes of
heat and cold as protracted, seldom lasting but a few days. Strong
winds prevail for a while in spring, but rarely in winter, and any-
thing like cyclones are unknown. Though the soil is very light
and loose, and no rain falls during the summer months, no irri-
gation is necessary. There is no healthier spot on the continent.
The Blue mountains afford an inexhaustible supply of pine, fir and
tamarack timber and an abundance of large game. The streams
abound in salmon and mountain trout.
Terms Heard on the Pla1ns.—"Lariat" is the Spanish name for rope;
"broncho," California or Spanish pony; "bueano" (wa-no), good; "esta
bueano" (star wa-no), very good—no better; "no sabe" (sarvey), don't under-
stand; "quien sabe" (kin sarvey), who knows, or do you understand?
Our various western books answer almost every conceivable question about
the great western country. Yet, for over 20 years, we have been in receipt of
from one to 20 letters each week during that time, asking for further informa-
tion. Hereafter, as we are old, financ1ally "busted" and "played out," we
must advise all correspondents to buy the 'I ours and read up.
How much better we can bear other people's sorrows than our own. How
resigned we are at their bereavements, and how nobly we withstand their
temptations!


224 WAI<I,A WAI^A.
newspaper—the Eagle—and the City hotel. Wheat, general farm
produce, flour, shingles, live-stock, wool and some fruit are among
the items of shipments.
Wa1,U Wal1,a Va1aey, or its drainage, is one of the largest
agricultural valleys in the west, embracing about 5,125,000 acres,
bounded on the north by Snake river, on the east and south by
the Blue mountains, and on the west by the Columbia river, in-
cluding most of Walla Walla and Columbia counties. In the
valley all kinds of grain, vegetables, fruit and berries thrive ex-
ceedingly well. The late fair at Walla Walla made the finest ex-
hibition of field, orchard, garden and general farm productions
ever made. The authentic records were: Wheat, from 30 to 65
bushels to the acre; oats, from 40 to 60 bushels; corn, 55 bushels;
potatoes, 600 bushels; turnips, 350 bushels; carrots, 1,000 bushels;
parsnips, 850 bushels, and everything else in proportion. Wheat
is the staple product of the country and the quality is superior,
commanding a higher price in foreign markets than that from any
other region in the world. Bugs, mildew, grasshoppers and rust
are unknown. Irrigation is not necessary, and a failure of crops
has hitherto never been experienced.
The climate and adaptability of the valley for fruit-raising and
vine culture is now pretty thoroughly demonstrated; and when the
knowledge of the facts become more generally known it will not
be long before every acre in this immense valley will be taken up
and cultivated equal to any garden spot in the world. At this
time, it is computed there are nearly 2,000,000 acres of government
land in this valley that can be entered under the general land laws.
Leaving Milton we soon cross the Walla Walla river and run
directly north, along through a very fine tract of country, mostly
under cultivation. The river is bordered with trees half a mile in
width, and the valley bottom on each side from two to ten miles
in width.
Climbing a small divide five miles from Milton, our train crosses
the boundary line into Washington Territory, and another five
miles brings our train to
Willla Walla—[Pop., 5,000; from Pendleton, 47 miles; Wallula, 31
miles; Riparia, 56 miles; from Portland, 278 miles].—Settled in 1859. The
seat of Walla Walla county, situated in the broad valley of and
astride Mill creek, which affords ample power to run a score or
more of mills and manufactories, among which are five large
flour-mills, capacity 535 barrels a day; two planing-mills, three
furniture factories, one brewery, one large agricultural implement
works and two sash, door and blind factories. Some of the busi-
ness blocks are very large, built of brick and stone in the most
substantial manner. Stores, shops, restaurants, etc., are very
numerous; of half a dozen hotels the Stine and Delmonaco are the
principal ones. The city is provided with a good system of water
works, gas, electric light, telephone, etc. There are 12 churches
and three school buildings; the schools have 12 teachers and 650
scholprs in attendance.
There are four private institutions of learning in the city: St.
Paul's [Episcopal], Whitman College [Congregational], St. Vincent's
Academy for girls and St. Patrick's for boys—both of the latter
under the control of the Roman Catholic Church. Then there is
a business college and normal institute, an opera house. U. S.


DETOUR TO DAYTON. 225
signal office, U. S. land office, court house (that cost $25,000), terri-
torial penitentiary (occupying three acres of ground), cost, $212,500,
and last, but by no means least, five newspapers—the Journal and
the Union, both daily and weekly, and the Democrat, weekly. A
race-track is also among the luxuries of the town.
Stock-raising, next to wheat, is the most important industry of
the settlers in the region surrounding Walla Walla.
The shipments comprise wheat, oats, parley, flour, fruit and
general farm products.
Walla Walla is embowered in foliage—shade trees, orchards of
fruit, vineyards and gardens are everywhere. The city, for wealth,
good society, fruit, fine water, vines, flowers and whole-souled
people, is a twin brother to Boise, the beautiful.
In the vicinity of Walla Walla are two nurseries, where nearly
every variety of fruit and ornamental trees and many varieties of
berries, plants, etc., are raised in great quantities.
Connect1ons—By rail: With,Wallula branch of the U. P. and main line to
the north and south. Also, mail hack northeast, twice a week to D1x1e, ten
miles.
Fort Wa1,u Wa1,u is situated just to the west of the city,
in command of Col. D. R. Clendenin, 2d Cavalry. It is the head-
quarters, field, staff, band and troop, of the 2d Cavalry, and
garrisoned by companies B, R, F, I and M.
Leaving Walla Walla, that big building just to the north, on a
commanding eminence, is the territorial penitentiary, so it may be
well to look a leetle out.
Passing a succession of small sidings, for shipping wheat—as
the whole country is one vast wheat field—we reach Prescott—
[Pop., 230, from Walla Walla, 20 miles].—On Trouchet river, where is
located a flour-mill, from which it is four miles to BonES Junc-
t1on, situated on Trouchet river at the junction of the
Dayton Braneh—Changing cars, we will start on
Detour One—The route is east, following up Trouchet river.
The valley is from half to two miles in width, with high rolling
grass or wheat-covered hills on both sides. Nearly all the land is
fenced and cultivated; cottonwoods, pines, firs and willows line the
stream-bed, flanked by thrifty settlers. Passing the little wheat
shipping Stations of WATESBURG [four miles], Huntsv1lle [three
miles], and Long's [three miles], we reach the end of the "branch" at
Dayton—[Pop., 1,850; from Bolles Junction, 13 miles]—Settled in
1871. Is the seat of Columbia county, situated on Trouchet river,
in a beautiful little park-like valley, and besides commodious
county buildings, contains eight churches, schools (with nine
teachers and 300 scholars), an opera house, two large flour-mills
and a feed-mill, two banks, a furniture factory, saw-mills, iron
works, brewery, shingle-mill, a good system of water works, sev-
eral hotels—the Columbia and Pioneer, being the principal ones—
and two weekly newspapers, Chronicle and Inlander.
The railroad company have here a good depot and immense
freight and storage buildings, and long platforms for shipping grain.
A long "V" flume, extending from the Blue mountains to the
eastward, brings down from the saw-mills large quantities of lum-
ber, also ties and cordwood.
The principal shipments from Dayton are wheat, lumber, flour,
ties and cordwood.


DETOUR TO LEWISTON. 227
$350,000. The railroad crosses the river here and extends northward
up Texas creek to a connection with their Palouse line. The place
contains two grocery stores, a hotel, and a machine repair shop of
the railroad company.
Detour Three.—Taking one of the regular passenger steam-
boats of the U. P. R'y at Riparia, we startup the Snake river
for Lewiston, Idaho; distance, 78 miles. The boats are fitted up
equal to any light draft first-class craft on the eastern rivers. The
staterooms are roomy and the meals and service all that could be
desired.
Boats leave Riparia 6:40 a. m. Wednesday and Saturday, and
arrive at Lewiston at 4 p. m. Returning, leave Lewiston at 5 a. m.
Monday and Friday, and arrive at Riparia at 2 p. m., connecting
with trains for the east.
Leaving Riparia the scenery is confined to the bluffs and canon
walls of the river. The regular landings are not very numerous—
the irregular ones depend upon signals from the shore—or whether
there is any passenger on board who desires to land.
Besides the regular passenger boats there is a regular line of
freight boats.
R1chard's Land1ng—For the village of Penwana, and Almota,
are the regular landings.
Lewiston—[Pop., 2,100].—Settled in 1860. Is the seat of Nez
Perces county, situated at the junction of the Snake and Clear-
water rivers, at the head of navigation. It contains five churches,
good schools, three banks, two flour, a planing and a saw-mill, a
sash,.door and blind factory, one brewery, several hotels—Ray-
mond, the principal one—and two weekly newspapers, the Teller
and the News; also a U. S. land office.
The principal shipments are wheat, oats, barley, flax, lumber,
flour and fruit.
Lewiston was named after Lewis, the great American explorer,
who visited that locality in 1805 on his journey down the rivers to
the ocean. Early in the spring of 1806 the Lewis and Clarke expe-
dition, after exploring the Snake and Columbia rivers and winter-
ing on the ocean beach near the mouth of the Columbia, again
ascended the river and camped on the spot where now stands the
city of Lewiston After resting a few days at this point they
ascended the south fork of the Clearwater to Camas prairie, where
they remained for a time, preparing for their terrible trip over the
mountains, then covered with several feet of snow. About the
middle of June they renewed their journey, passing over into what
is now Montana, to the headwaters of the Missouri river, and
finally arrived at St. Louis toward the last of September, thus end-
ing their wonderful journey over mountains, rivers and plains,
through an unexplored region infested with Indians, a distance of
over 9,000 miles.
Nez Perces County—Population about 5,000. Is about one-
third mountainous and the balance about equally divided between
grazing and agricultural land.
The argicultural lands are very rich, producing grain and all
kinds of farm produce equal to any land in the west.
For the year ending June 30, 1888, the grain product was:
Wheat, 1,000,000 bushels; oats, 100,000 bushels; barley, 100,000
bushels; flaxseed, 55,000 bushels.


228 PAMPA AND WINONA BRANCHES.
There are many orchards of fruit in the county. Apples, pears,
peaches, plums and all kinds of berries do exceedingly well.
The section of country known as the Big Potlatch is peculiarly
adapted for fruit culture, the soil being very rich and warm.
The Nez Perces county "Idaho pear," raised on the Potlatch, has
become famous, taking the premium wherever exhibited at the
state or county fairs.
The lumber products and possibilities of the country are
immense.
Game—Haired and feathered, is abundant; also, many
varieties of fish in all the streams.
L1ve-stock—In the county: Sheep, 10,800 head; cattle, 7,310
head; horses, 4,200.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: West, daily to S1lcott, eight miles; Alpowa,
eight miles; Pot aha, 12 miles, and Pomeroy, nine miles.
Also from Lewiston, mail coach north, daily to Genesee, 15 miles; Bla1n,
seven miles, and Moscow, six miles; also, from Lewiston, mail hack south-
east, daily to Rust1c, 45 miles; Cottonwood, six miles; Grangerv1lle, 16
miles, and Mount Idaho, three miles.
From Mount Idaho—Mail hack south, once a week to Fredom, 32 miles;
John Day's, five miles; Shearer's Ferry, 30 miles, and Warren, 45 miles;
also, from Mount Idaho, mail hack northeast once a week to Glenwood,
eight miles, and Clearwater, four miles; from Clearwater southeast, special
* service, to Elk C1ty, 45 miles.
From Lewiston—Ma1l hack east, once a week to Lola, 65 miles; thence
north to Glenn, 15 miles.
From Lola—Mail hack east, once a week to We1ppe, 16 miles; thence
north to P1erce C1ty, 15 miles.
Returning to Riparia and taking our old seat, cross the Snake
river and follow up Texas creek, which comes down through a
narrow canon.
Stock-raising is now the chief industry of the settlers, although
there are a few wheat fields scattered along the way. Hay
[13 miles] is down on the "time card" for a station; so also is
MEEKER [six miles], but their peculiarities are neither settlers nor
hay.
Having reached the summit, our descent is rapid to LA CROSSE
JUNCTION [five miles; from Riparia, 24 miles; Palouse Junction, 53 miles].
Here comes in the
Pampa Braneh—from the west. This branch is 53 miles
long, connecting at Palouse Junction or Connell with the North-
ern Pacific railroad. The country traversed is devoted entirely to
stock-raising, none of the half-dozen stations numbering more
than a score of settlers. These stations are: Pampa [thred miles],
HOOPER [four miles], WASHTUCKNA [nine miles], KAHLOUS [ten miles],
Sulphur [12 miles], and Palouse Junct1on or Connell [nine miles].
This "junction" is situated on a broad sage-brush plain, fairly
grassed, showing many evidences of having been visited at some
date in the dim past by a great flood of volcanic matter, as indi-
cated by lava outcroppings, lava knolls and the general basaltic
deposits seen in many places.
Passing Sutton [three miles], on Union Flat creek, we descend
to the valley of the Palouse river at
Wlliona Junetion—[From Sutton, eight miles; Colfax, 25 miles].
Here a branch line extends up the Palouse river through Pleasant
valley, to Seltice [48 miles].
Changing direction, our route is eastward up Spring creek,
passing fenced fields and well cultivated farms, wheat and meadow
lands.


COLFAX AND MOSCOW. 229
ElldiOOtl—[Pop.,150; from Riparia, 41 miles; Colfax, 20 miles].—Set-
tled in 1882. It has a church and school, half-dozen stores and
shops, and ships live-stock, wheat, wool and farm produce.
Diamonds—[Pop., 1o0; from Endieott, ten miles].—Is a new station,
in the midst of well cultivated lands, all fenced, and large farm
houses surrounded by young fruit orchards.
From Diamonds it is four miles to Mockonema, and two miles
to Crest, both stations only on paper. At Crest our road is on
the side of a high bluff, from which we look away down to the left
on the Palouse river, and also a fine race-track, in a pretty little
valley. This sporting resort is two and a half miles from
Colfex—[Pop., 1,700; from Riparia, 60 miles; Moscow, 28 miles; Farra-
ington, 27 miles].—Settled in 1873. Is the seat of Whitman county,
and a flourishing and progressive town. It is situated astride the
Palouse river, at the junction of the north and south branches. It
contains, besides the county buildings, the Colfax College, three
churches, good district school, three banks, one flour-mill, one
brewery, one planing mill, one sash, door and blind factory, one
fanning mill manufactory, two weekly newspapers (the Gazette
and Commoner) several hotels—the Thealson, Baldwin and
Watson.
Colfax has a good fire department and extensive telephone con-
nections with the surrounding towns. Two miles east is located an
extensive nursery.
There are a number of large brick business blocks here, and
several very heavy mercantile establishments; also stores and
shops of all kinds.
The live-stock and wheat interests are the most important in
this vicinity; besides these, lumber, wool, flour, beer and general
farm products are among the principal shipments.
Connect1ons—Rail: Moscow branch and main line Un. Pac. R'y also,
mail hack southeast, three times a week to Evartsv1lle, ten miles; and
Ontar1oec 12 miles; also, south, three times a week to Almota, 15 miles; Il1a,
three miles; Mayv1ew, five miles; D1xon, eight miles, and Pomeroy, eight
miles; also, southwest, three times a week to Penawana, 19 miles; also, north-
west, three times a- week to Vulcan, 12 miles, and Co1n, eight miles; also,
north, special * service to Stepto, 14 miles.
Dolour Four—Over the Moscow Branch of U. P. R'y The
route is southeast, up the south branch of the Palouse river, between
high bluffs, dotted in places with pines and firs, and along the
river with willows, rocks, farm houses, more willows, wheat fields,
more rocks, and so it goes. The first station, R1vers1de [eight
miles], has long platforms and warehouses for handling wheat, as
wheat seems to be about the only product offered for shipment.
Shawnee [two miles], is another, and Guy [three miles] another
wheat shipping point. The latter is situated in a lovely little val-
ley, and has a population of about 250 in the near vicinity.
The river valley, which has been narrow and rugged up to Guy,
gradually widens, anil the grade, which has been heavy, is much
lighter.
I lllllllilll—[Pop., 350; from Colfax, 18 miles; Moscow, nine miles].
Is a new and thrifty town, situated near the crossing point of the
Moscow branch of the U. P. R'y. and the Spokane & Palouse
branch of the Northern Pacific railroad.
It contains a number of stores, grain elevator, two churches,
a school, one bank and two hotels—the Palace and Empire.


234 cceur d'alene m1n1ng towns.
town is a busy one, and the outlook for the future very promising.
The Central is the principal hotel, and the Wardner News makes
its bow every Saturday.
0sborn—[Pop., 500; from the "junction," five miles; elevation, 2,510
feet.]—Is the seat of Shoshone county, Idaho. It is situated on
the river bottom, and has a court house, a number of stores and a
weekly newspaper, the Statesman. In the vicinity a number of
mines of high grade in silver and lead; the Killbuck, Argentine,
Polaris and Yankee Girl are the principal ones.
lVallaeC—[Pop., 900; from Osborn, five miles; elevation, 2,755 feet.]—
Is situated on the Cceur d'Alene river near the junction of Nine
Mile and Placer creek, and is quite a mining center; some of the
principal mines tributary to Wallace for business and shipping are
the Granite, Custer, Monarch, California, Sunset, Big Bug, Silver
Tip, Sitting Bull, Tuscumbia, Tough Nut and many others.
There are a number of concentrators at Wallace, stores of all
kinds, several hotels, one bank and one weekly newspaper, the
Free Press.
Burk—A mining town of about 500 population, is situated on
Nine Mile creek, about seven miles eastward from Wallace.
Here are the Tiger and Poor Man mines, with their immense
concentrators, capable of handling 150 tons per day, each, of
crude ore. Along the gulch are the Ore-or-no-go, Diamond Hitch,
Bell, San Francisco, Black Bear and Gem mines; many of these
have concentrators and others are shipping.
JH llllclll—[Pop., =00; from Wallace, seven miles; elevation, 3,205 feet.]—
Is a noted mining camp, situated at the head of the Cceur d'Alene
river, and near the source of the St. Regis, which flows eastward
into Montana. The Hunter mine is the most noted in this
vicinity. It is owned by Dennis Ryan, of St. Paul, who has a
large concentrator at Mullan. The Morning and Evening mines
are about two miles to the northeast—are owned by a pioneer
Coloradoan, Warren Hussey, now cashier of the Spokane National
Bank. A concentrator near the town treats the ore, which is con-
veyed from the mine to the mill by a wire tramway. There are a
great many other mines in the vicinity of Mullan, in various
stages of development, some of which are regular shippers of
ore; others are building concentrators of their own.
All the mines named above produce only silver and lead. All
the mines on the north fork of the Cceur d'Alene are gold; but
the quartz veins have not proved very profitable, while the placers
are being worked with much profit. Murray is the town located
at these mines.
Overlooking all these towns, are lofty timber-clad mountains,
some of which are bare headed, except with a cap of snow. Chief
of these is Sunset Peak, the most elevated in the whole Cceur
d'Alene range.
For scenic views of mountain, lake and river, there can be
none more grandly beautiful than can be enjoyed on this tour.
For a season devoted to hunting, fishing and boating—where
game of all kinds, both large and small, abounds—the Cceur
d'Alene country is unequaled.


LATAH—FAIRFIBLD—ROCKFORD. 235
For prospecting for minerals or engaging in mining, or a
general business connected with the mines, this new and virgin
country offers many advantages—the mining possibilities are
unlimited.
Returning to Tekoa, we resume our tour to the northward.
Lat&h—[Pop., 500; from Tekoa, nine miles; Spokane Falls, 40 miles.]—
Was founded in 1884. Is a very prosperous village, surrounded
by immense wheat fields. The average yield of wheat in this
vicinity is 40 bushels to the acre, and in some fields have been
harvested 75 bushels per acre. Oats and barley make big yields,
the former as high as 100 bushels per acre. Stock and fruit
raising and dairying are also important occupations of the
people in the vicinity.
Latah has two grain warehouses, with a capacity each of 20,000
bushels; one elevator, with a storage capacity of 75,000 bushels; one
saw and one grist mill, several churches and schools, half-a-dozen
stores of different kinds, and private residences and farm-houses
dotting the rolling prairies in every direction.
Fairfield—[Pop., 500; from Latah, five miles].—Is a new and thriv-
ing village in the great wheat belt. It is provided with large
grain warehouses, elevator, nearly a dozen stores and shops,
which do a prosperous business with the farmers, lumbermen,
stock raisers and dairymen in the adjoining country.
Roekford—[Pop., 900; from Fairfield, eight miles; Spokane Falls, 27
miles; elevation, 2,380 feet.]—Is a very progressive town, situated in
the midst of almost unlimited and varied resources. The citizens
appear to understand the advantages of their position, and seem to
strive to develop all these resources at the same time. They will
proudly point to the mountains near by, covered with a dense
growth of large fir, pine, tamarack and cedar timber, and say:
"We have twelve mills turning that timber into lumber, and two
shingle-mills that turn out 50,000 shingles per day; we have a
roller flour-mill over yonder that turns out 100 barrels per day.
While wheat is our most important staple, we raise great quanti-
ties of oats, barley, vegetables and fruit. Our stock-raising ad-
vantages are also great. We have -a bank, a planing-mill, two
weekly newspapers, a score of stores, representing every line of
trade, and we have got churches and first-class schools for our
children. What more do we need?"
The town is situated along the valleys of Rock and Mica creeks,
and on the rolling hills. The railroad company have a fine depot
building here, and are doing much to further the general pros-
perity of the town.
The snow-capped Coeur d'Alene mountains look down upon the
town from the east, and Mica Peak from the northeast. The lat-
ter is noted for its immense deposits of mica.
Improved land in the vicinity of Rockford sells for from $10 to
$20 per acre.
Leaving Rockford, the country is rough and broken by rocky
timber ridges, which are fast being denuded of their timber and
wood. Between these ridges are many pretty little valleys, where
can be seen the rustic abode of the pioneer settler, making a home
for his wife and babies—happy that they are happy, and never


240 ARLINGTON—BLALOCK'S.
branch southward to Heppner, which is completed 45 miles, and
will probably be extended to Canyon City and Ontario at no
distant day.
The cliffs crowd our way, leaving just room enough between
their rugged sides and the river for our passing train.
Passing the junction, W11lows [two miles] is reached, a side-
track station with a fine depot, where is accumulating a large
amount of construction materials for extending the Willows
branch. This station, owing to the limited yard room at the
"junction," will probably be the starting point for all trains on the
"branch" when it is completed and trains running.
Arlington—[Pop.,I,oo0;from Willows, nine miles; Umatilla, 45 miles;
Portland, 142 miles].—Is the seat of Gilliam county, and a regular
meal station for some trains. Very little of the town is visible
from the depot, as it is built astride a crooked ravine, half a mile in
length, that comes down from the bluffs to the southward just at
the depot. The town has quite a number of good brick business
blocks and many large mercantile houses, beside stores of many
kinds, two banks, several hotels, one weekly newspaper—the
Times—three churches, and a good district school.
The county is fast settling up with thrifty farmers, wheat and
live-stock being the chief productions. The shipments are live-
stock, wheat, wool and farm products.
Stock-raising is now the chief occupation of the settlers on
both sides of the Columbia river.
A steam ferry-boat conveys passengers and teams across the
river from opposite the depot.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Southeast daily toIone, 30 miles- Pettysv11 le
four miles; Lex1ngton, six miles, and Heppner, nine miles. [See connections
under "Pendleton."] Also, mail coach south, daily to Ba1rd, seven miles- Ol1x
eight miles; Glem, ten miles; Condon, eight m1les; Maryv1lle, \% miles ai1d
Foss1l, eight miles. J'
From Olex—Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Fletts nine miles-
Gooseberry, 11 miles; thence south to Idea, five miles and Lone Rock 11
miles.'
From Condon—Mail hack southeast, three times a week to Matney six
miles, and Lost Valley, 14 miles.'
From Fossil—Mail hack eastward, twice a week to Wagner v. miles and
Monument, 22 miles. [See under "Baker City."]'
From Fossil—Mail hack south, twice a week to Content1on 20 miles-
thence southeast to Waldron, 15 miles; thence southwest to M1tchell 1k
miles; Crescent, 20 m1les; thence west to Howard, 19 miles, and Pr1nev1ll1-
19 miles. [See under "The Dalles.]"'
BlillOCk'K—[From Arlington, eight miles].—Is a small station for
passing trains and shipping cattle and wheat, about the only
productions in this region.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: South, twice a week to Rockv1lle, 12 miles.
For many miles of our way down the river the bluffs have been
gradually increasing their elevation until walls of rock appear,
crowding close to the river, rising from 800 to 1,000 feet above the
railroad, which finds a rough and tortuous way between riverandcliff.
From the summit of these cliff-walls a broad table land extends
far away to the southward, much of which is occupied by settlers,
whose principal productions are live-stock and wheat. How to
reach these lauds from the railroad, by teams, is often a problem
difficult to solve without great expense in constructing wagon
roads up the rough and steep ravines, or along the face of the
cliffs. For landing wheat and other grain at the foot of the cliff-


COLUMBIA RIVER


Soutl? by Southeast
-) GOING TO (=
New Orlshns,
Mob1le ™
Gulf Po1nts
Texas & Pacific
passes through North Texas, the Garden Spot of the State, where
You can see the cornfields' tassel
And hear the cotton grow,
Where the watermelon's reddest
And tho 'simmons hanging low.
Just beyond is the newly developed iron region of Eastern Texas, then
Shreveport is reached, and from here to Alexandria the road traverses the
valley of the Red Kiver, passing the famous sugar and cotton plantations
of Louisiana, bringing the Mississippi into view at Baton Rouge and fol-
lowing tho bank of that majestic stream to New Orleans, where connections
are made for all Gulf Points and farther east. This is the
DIregt Route
Denver ♦—*■*-
TO
Tide Water.
J. H. LAWDER, GASTON MESLIER,
Gen'l Western Agent, Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Agent,
1705 Larimer St., DENVER, COLO. DALLAS, TEX.


SHOOTING WHEAT. 241
wall convenient to a shipping point on the railroad or river, a
plan of fluming is in use, but operated differently in different
places.
Flum1ng WHEAT—About half a mile below Blalock's is a flume,
made of lumber about six inches square, that extends from a side-
track and platform for shipping grain to the top of the cliff, about
1,200 feet in length, supported by props and cables. At the upper
end of the flume, and in connection with it, is a large bin con-
structed in such a position that farmers can back up their teams
and dump their entire load into it, the grain rushing down the
flume with great velocity to another large bin, where the grain is
put up in sacks for shipment.
In some other places along down the river, the grain is put into
sackc before shooting it down the flume, but in those cases the
flumes are very much shorter as well as much larger.
Several miles below Blalock's the basaltic cliff-walls commence
to present a more pronounced series of terraced, dike formations on
both sides of the river. These terraces slope back in tiers of from
four to six rows, much like some of the pre-historic battle mounds
seen in Arizona and Mexico.
These steps rise sheer one above the other, from ten to 50 feet
each, extending with great uniformity for many miles, laid up
seemingly with all the precision of a master-workman.
Pluto's Caldron—Is a wild collection of volcanic cones,
buttes, needle-pointed rocks, mounds, lava beds and an endless va-
riety of curious black rock formations of every conceivable shape
and form.
Our engine seems to thread its way cautiously through this
witches' caldron. Yet, there is no longer any "bubble, bubble, toil
and trouble."
Near the "caldron" is Squally Hook, and a magnificent suc-
cession of rapids in the river, which is here crowded close between
the cliff-walls on either side, where it goes tumbling down in one
tumultuous sheet of sparkling foam, most beautiful to behold.
Rolling over a high trestle bridge and John Day's river at the
same time, soon passing the side-track of John Day's, and then the
little station of RuFUS, formerly Wallace, but not down on the
"time cards," where there is one store, a platform for shipping
grain, several young orchards of fruit trees and many huge sand
drifts, arrive at
Grilllts—[Pop., 80; from Blalock's, 22 miles; The Dalles, 23 miles].
Formerly known as Villard. It contains several stores and hotels
and does a large shipping business in grain, live-stock, wool and
general farm products from the country to the southward.
The basaltic cliffs near the station rise sheer 1,000 feet above the
railroad. Here is another chute for lauding grain from the top of
the mountain wall to a sacking bin at its base.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: West, daily across the river to ColumBus, four
miles; thence northwest to Centerv1lle, eight miles; thence northeast to
Goldendale, seven miles. Also, from Grants, mail hack south, three times a
week to Wasco, ten miles; Monkland, 12 miles; De Moss Spr1ngs, four miles;
Mora, three miles; Ersk1nv1lle, three miles; Grass Valley, six miles, and
Rutledge, seven miles.
From Rutledge—Mail hack south, twice a week to Kent, 14 miles.
From Grants—Mail hack southeast, twice a week to Em1grant, 12 miles;
also, from Grants special * service southeast to Grover, 22 miles.


242 MT. HOOD—NATIVES.
BiggS—[Pop., 75; from Grants, three miles].-ls a little side-track
station, with one general store, and sand drifts varying to 30 feet in
height, shifting with the wind like snow drifts in New England.
The principal shipments are wheat and other grains. And, by
the way, the wheat from Biggs weighs something less than 200
pounds to the bushel.
On the north side of the Columbia opposite Biggs can be seen
the graded track of the Northern Pacific railroad, made many years
ago in order to hold a land grant from the government—20 miles
in width. The government withdrew the land from market, the
road was not built, yet it is kindly held in reserve for the railroad
company during the latter's convenience. Generous "Uncle
Sam!"
Leaving Biggs the scenic views of river, Miller's Island, Hell
Gate and beyond is very grand and beautiful. Passing DE Chutes,
[four miles] a side-track and station building, one mile brings our
train on the bridge over the De Chutes river. figf"Remember to
look to the left and view the beautiful rapids close above the
bridge; they are fine.
Colilo—[four miles]—is the next station, a mere side-track nozc,
but once upon a time it was a noted place, with a population of
1,000 or more. At that time there were only 18 miles of railroad
along the entire river—six miles around the cascades and 12 miles
from The Dalles to Colilo. There was then, as now, a line of steam-
boats from Portland to the cascades, where a rail transfer was
made to boats above, which ran up the river to The Dalles, where
another transfer was made from The Dalles by rail, 12 miles, to
Colilo, where another line of boats ran eastward to Umatilla. The
line from The Dalles eastward to this station and above has been
discontinued, but the lower line is still in operation, affording
passengers a choice of routes to and from Portland and The Dalles,
without additional fare.
The rapids and falls of The Dalles are now on our right, and will
continue to the city of The Dalles.
Ind1ans are numerous at all times in the vicinity of The Dalles,
particularly in the fishing season. They catch and dry great quan-
tities of salmon, selling what they can and packing the balance
away for winter use. The fish roe is a great luxury with the
Indians, who separate the eggs and dry them in the sun until they
become very hard, resembling fine bird shot.
Most of the Indians in this vicinity belong to the John Day's
and Colilo tribes. One Indian and squaw who live in a little
"teepe" just above the middle falls are said to be 125 and 121 years
of age, respectively. Had we guessed their age from their mummy-
fled appearance, we should have placed their birth co-equal with
"the first man and the first woman," and it may be when Adam
and Eve were turned out of Eden they came over to The Dalles.
Six miles above the city of The Dalles, just below Summit sta-
tion, a fine view can be had of Mt. Hood, directly west, 40 miles
away. It is the standpoint from which Bierstadt painted his pic-
ture of Mt. Hood, for which Mr. Vauderbilt paid him $20,000,
Less than 60 years ago fashion pronounced the little ravines of James river
and the Connecticut, the proud spots of America, and held the great unin-
habited wastes of the Mississippi, and its unnavigated streams as worthy only
to balance codfish.
A ton of pure gold is valued at $602,799.20.


1820—the dalles- 1890. 243
The Dalles—[Pop., 4,3o0; from TTmatilla, 99 miles; Portland, 88 miles].
Settled in 1S20 by the Northwestern Fur Co.; in 1836, by the
Methodist missionaries; in 184G, by the Catholic padres, ar1d in
1847 by a more permanent class of settlers from "the states." In
1850 the government established a military post here garrisoned
by the "boys in blue." The first steamboat—the Flint—arrived
at The Dalles in 1851, previous to which the entire business of
river transportation was done by flat-boats and canoes, the latter
similar to those now in use by the Puyallup Indians on Puget Sound.
The discovery of gold in the Colville region in 1855 brought an
immense trade via The Dalles; again, in 1858-9 the Fraser river
river excitement, and again in 1861, when the discoveries were
made in Idaho, eastern Oregon and Montana, the rush of gold
hunters and their followers numbered thousands multiplied by
scores. At that time The Dalles was a "booming" city, and many
fortunes were made by those in mercantile and transportation
business. Most towns are fortunate in having one "boom." The
Dalles had three prior to the arrival of the greatest, which com-
menced with the building of the O. R. & N. railroad, in 1880, up
the Columbia river eastward. For nearly three years The Dalles
was the depot of supplies for this work, in which thousands of men
were engaged and millions of dollars expended. During all these
years of prosperity the rich agricultural and grazing lands lying
to the southward, in what is now Wasco county, were being taken
up and settled upon by an enterprising and thrifty class of people.
The ready market afforded at The Dalles for all the productions of
the settlers—from both farm and range—stimulated them to re-
newed efforts, until at the present time the shipments of wheat,
live-stock, wool, hides and general farm products are larger than
any county in the state of like area. The fisheries and salmon
canning companies afford shipments annually aggregating many
thousand tons.
The city of The Dalles is situated on the south side of the
Columbia river three miles below the principal Dalles rapids, at a
point where the river makes a great bend to the south, west and
northward, describing a half circle six miles in diameter. On the
outer rim of this monster crescent, when the points are directly north,
sloping back from the river about three miles to basaltic cliffs which
rise to an altitude of 1,000 feet above it, is the city of The Dalles.
It is a lovely site for a city, and we might add it is a lovely city.
As an educational city it is provided with two first-class academies—
the St. Mary's and the Wasco Independent—six churches and
ample district and graded schools. It has an excellent system of
water works and an efficient fire department, three banks, one
brewery, one flour and feed-mill, one planing-mill, two large pack-
ing houses, just half a dozen hotels, chief of which are the Uma-
tilla and Cosmopolitan, and two weekly newspapers—the Sun and
the Times-Mountaineer. Extensive machine shops belonging to
the U. P. R'y are located here, also a IT. S. laud office. Here are
a number of large brick and stone business blocks, a $25,000 court
house, many sfcgant brick private residences, and stores, shops
and small manufactories of different kinds.
Water-power—The Dalles, with the largest water-power on
the Pacific coast, does not utilize it to roll a wheel!
Here is an opportunity for the investment of capital that will
yield handsome profits.



BRIDAL VEIL FALL.—See page 248,
We shall not attempt to describe the varied scenery along this
route in detail; no attempt of man could do it justice, and we
opine the recording angel would down his pen and bless his eyes
in huge disgust, when he discovered the half had not been told.
The stations down on the "time cards" often fail to materialize.
ROWENA [nine miles] and MoSlER [seven miles] are both side-tracks
for passing trains.
Judge Amos Steele buys coal at $4 per ton for use in his new palatial home in
Denver. He says, "It's cheaper than the wood that I paid }8o per cord for in 1865."
15


246 HOOD—CASCADE LOCKS.
Hood river is crossed half a mile before reaching the station of
Hood River—[Pop., 200; from The Dalles, 23 miles; Portland, 65 miles].
Situated near the junction of Hood river with the Columbia.
The town is in a grove of trees, on an elevation overlooking the
river and station. It consists of four churches, a good district
school, one general store, saw-mills, several summer boarding-
houses, and the Mt. Hood hotel. It is the stopping place and out-
fitting point for visitors to Mt. Hood [elevation, 11,225 feet]. In sum-
mer, stages run regularly for Mt. Hood resort—25 miles; fare for
round trip, $5.
The scenic views at Hood river and vicinity are indescribably
grand and beautiful.
Passing V1ENT0 [eight milesl and WyeTH [six miles], seven miles
brings our train to the noted
Caseade Loeks—[Pop., 250; from Hood River, 20 miles; Portland,
45 miles].—Besides the government business going on here, the
place consists of five general stores, several saloons, but no hotel.
One good hotel is badly needed. Here we found another of the
old-time settlers of Oregon—Dr. Leavens. He has been in this
country since 1833, and is a living encyclopedia of matters pertain-
ing to this western country.
With suitable hotel accommodations for tourists and cottages
for families, we believe there is no place in the wide world that
could afford more natural attractions than this. In grand moun-
tain, forest and river scenery; in springs of cold, warm and hot
medicinal waters, now "running wild " within a short distance of
the station ; in varieties of haired and feathered game—deer, bear,
grouse, etc., and fishing, taken in connection with the admirable
climate and ease of approach—affords unrivalled attractions, just
such as would be patronized by tens of thousands of visitors
annually.
Cascade Locks should not be confounded with Cascades, the
seat of Skamania county, Washington, generally known as
Lower Cascades, by which name it will appear in our tour up
the Columbia by steamer.
The shipments of salmon from this station during the fishing
season are very heavy, running into the hundreds of tons.
On the Washington side of the river are vast forests of the
finest timber, where are located some of the largest saw-mills
along the river.
Old Blockhouse.—On the opposite side of the river from the
station, in plain view, is situated the blockhouse once occupied
by the late Gen. Sheridan, when he was proud of the title of
"Lieutenant." It is in a dilapidated condition and can last but
a few years longer.
The Lock.—The question of improving the navigation of the
Columbia river by a system of locks was before congress for many
years, but not until 1876 were any practical results obtained. That
year $60,000 was appropriated to commence operations. Various
subsequent appropriations have aggregated $1,500,000, and it is
estimated another million will be required to complete the work.
It is about 11 years since work commenced, and it is estimated
about five years more will be required before the work will be
completed; provided, there is no delay for the want of the necessary


250 PORTLAND AND SUBURBS.
public and private buildings, and general improvements and thrift,
with but one exception, has no equal on the Pacific coast. It con-
tains 33 churches, seven schools, and school property valued at
$356,000, 14 banks and bankers, six large flouring-mills and 11 flour
and feed-mills, nine foundries and machine works, six engine and
boiler works, three packing houses, 1(5 furniture manufactories,
121umber companies, nine planing-mills, four sash, door and blind
factories, four breweries, two broom factories, four carriage and
wagon works, and many smaller manufacturing establishments.
The great number, size and extent of business ofthe wholesale
mercantile establishments of Portland is a marvel. Their trade
covers the entire drainage of the Columbia river and its tributaries
in Oregon, Washington and the greater portion of Idaho and
Western Montana, something over 300,000 square miles.
Travel where you will in this region Portland is on the tongue
of the people. Portland! Every mention of business is connected
with Portland.
Of retail stores and shops of all kinds the city is abundantly
supplied, including nine Chinese, which do a heavy business with
their people throughout the area of country above named.
The city is well provided with water works and an efficient fire
department. It has ten colleges, academies and educational insti-
tutions, a library of 15,000 volumes, cable and street horse cars.
The hotels number scores, the Portland, Esmond, Oilman and
St. Charles leading; two American theatres and one Chinese.
Then there are a great number of newspapers. The Oregonian is
the chief. The Democrat, News, Telegram and Freie Presse
(German) are each daily and weekly. The prominent weeklies
are New Northwest, Journal of Commerce, Mercury, Times,
World, Rural Spirit (agricultural), and Farmer and Dairyman.
The West Shore is a fine monthly; each number is a mine of in-
formation. For a "time-table'-guide of-the northwest, buy Lewis
& Dryden's. For a condensed mass of reliable information, send
to the secretary state board of immigration, for a copy of the
"New Empire,'' sent free.
Portland is embowered in foliage; ornamental shade trees, or-
chards of fruit, beautiful gardens and lawns abound, while on the
slopes of the heights the native firs and pines rise from a bed of
ferns, vines and countless varieties of flowers, ten score feet or
more. A magnificent emerald border overlooking the richest dia-
mond setting in all the great northwest—Portland and its suburbs.
East Portland and Alb1na—Are now a part of Portland,
situated on the eastern bank of the Willamette river opposite,
connected by bridges and ferry lines, and sustains to it the same
relative position as Brooklyn, N. Y., does to the city of New York.
Timber ridges are close to the back of the towns, around which are
young orchards, gardens and scattering private residences.
Rail-tracks extend along the entire river front, besides large
warehouses, where an immense shipping business is carried on.
There are quite a number of manufactories in these places, among
which are two large canning works, saw-mill and three breweries.
Connect1ons—The railroads centering in Portland are Oregon & Califor-
nia, Union Pacific, Northern Pacific and the Oregonian. .
The steamer lines are numerous—too numerous to mention here—but steam-
ships, for nearly every port up and down the coast, on the Columbia, Willamette,
Cowlitz and Clatskanie rivers run regularly.


POINTERS—CONDENSED. 251
8©°If you want to learn all about the country from Portland
through southern Oregon and the whole length and breadth of
California to Ensenada, Old Mexico, buy CrofutT's Overland
Tours No. 2. It covers the whole route noted by the red line on
the map in this book.
San Franeiseo—by water—The Union Pacific Railway
Company run a regular line of steamships between the City
of Portland and San Francisco, California; leaving Portland at
12 midnight and San Francisco at 10 a. m., semi-weekly; time 50
hours. Rates of fare: Cabin, $16; steerage, $8 round trip,
unlimited, $30. These rates include meals and berths.
BSyThe route to the mouth of the Columbia river is the same
as noted in S1de Tour No. 16.
Oregon and Portland City—Miscellaneous items and
statistics for 1889.—We are indebted for many of the following
items to the Portland Oregonian.
Educat1onal—The educational facilities of Oregon are of the
first order, and consist of 45 universities, colleges, academies and
private schools. There are 1,536 organized school districts in the
state, and 55,402 children on the rolls, of which the average
attendance numbered for 1888, 40,872 pupils. There are 2,343
teachers. Average salary for males $48.03; females, $36.97.
Number of school houses, 1,439; valuation of public school
houses, $1,190,650; valuation of public school property, $1,350,668.
Amount raised by direct tax, $179,785.22. Amount raised by
county tax, $322,243.52 ; amount raised by counties for state school
fund, $108,217.25; amount raised from all other sources, §92,774.
Count1es—There are 29 counties in Oregon, the assessed val-
uation of which [at one-third actual value] was in 1887, $84,888,580 ; in
1888, $85,893,429—increase, $1,004,849.
8@"The first school in Portland, Oregon, was a private one,
opened by Dr. Ralph Wilcox in the fall of 1847. On March 31,
1856, districts Nos. 1 and 2 were consolidated. The Central school
was opened May 17, 1858; Harrison street school, January 22,
1866; North school, February 10, 1868; Higl1 school, April 26,
1869; Park school, September 1, 1879; Failing school, October
9, 1882; Couch school, January 2, 1883.
8®"Total banking capital of Portland for 1889, $6,500,000.
tyThe Portland Board of Trade is a strong body of men,
numbering 243 members.
B®"The total business of Portland for 1889 amounted to
$115,000,000.
EMIGRANTS—A close estimate gives the number of emigrants
who settled in Oregon during the year 1889 at upwards of 66,000.
fi£|f The arrivals at the Portland hotels for 1888 show an in-
crease over 1887 of more than double the number.
B@"Tn strolling around Portland, one will seldom see "to let"
on any building. The buildings are usually all rented before they
are ready for occupancy.
ggs^The real estate transfers of Portland for 1889 amounted
to $14,140,352.
Bf-gfPortland building and street improvements and street rail
tracks, $2,162,500. In suburbs, within six miles, $1,360,139.
A man or woman without enemies is of little value.


254
—ASTORIA—1889.
Saint Helens—[Pop., 300; from Portland, 27 miles!.—Is on the
Oregon side, and is the seat of Columbia county. It contains sev-
eral stores, a court house, and a weekly, Oregon Mist.
The lumber interest is the most important here.
Connect1ons—By rail: Northern Pacific and mail hack west, twice a week
to P1ttsburgh, 20 miles; thence south to Vernon1a, five miles.
Kalama—[Pop., 200; from Portland, 38 miles].—Is the seat of Cow-
litz county, situated at the Columbia river transfer crossing of
the Portland and Tacoma line of the Northern Pacific railroad. It
contains a good depot, several stores and saloons, three hotels—the
Riverside, Kazano and Havana—and the Cowlitz Advocate.
Leaving Kalama, our boat on its way down the river stops at
an even score of landings, where salmon fishing, canning and lum-
bering are the only industries, and passing many more, apparently
of the same kind, with the islands and the mountains on both
sides covered with a dense forest of pine, spruce, cedar and hem-
lock timber. Steaming beside great rocky spurs, shooting down
from the higher mountains, and dropping sheer a thousand feet at
the water's edge, with the river gradually widening to two, three,
four and five miles. On the route we pass scores of great ships,
steamers and river craft, and countless numbers of swans, geese,
ducks and other water fowl, on all sides.
Shooting out from the southern mountains a long, high prom-
ontory confronts our way and vision. Will it move? Our boat
heads directly for its rocky nose—"Tongue Point" is its name,
and it stands there solitary and alone, tapping the briny waters of
the Pacific. The boat clears the "tongue" within a few fathoms,
and there it is directly ahead, but 17 miles away, the great Pacific
ocean. Just to the left, nestling in beside the mountain, is
Astoria—[Pop., 7,000; from Portland, 98 miles].—Settled ill 1808,
being the first settlement on the Pacific coast. It is the seat of-
Clatsop county, situated near the mouth of the Columbia river on
a promontory facing Point Adams [at the "jetty," 15 miles west],
and flanked by Young's bay. Its chief industry is salmon fishing
and canning, being the headquarters of the Columbia river fish-
eries, and does by far the largest salmon fishing business of any
city in the world.
The city is built around the semi-circular side of a promontory,
which rises 1,000 feet above the waters, covered with timber from
base to summit, except where it has been cleared for building pur-
poses. The residence portion is built on this sloping ground,
shaded in many places by giant trees of nature's planting. All
the principal business streets are supported on piers or piles over
the waters, also, all the docks, wharves, warehouses and many of
the large business blocks have their foundations in the water, the
tide under or about them, rising from ten to 12 feet. The city has
quite a number of fine brick business blocks and brick residences,
stores and shops of all kinds, seven churches, three schools, with
12 teachers and 510 scholars—the buildings cost $40,000—three
banks, three planing-tnills, large steam saw-mills, two sash, door
and blind factories, iron works and one brewery, an opera house,
with a seating capacity of 1,500, electric light, telephone, etc.
Vessels from all parts of the world visit Astoria. The average
number loaded each year at her wharves is about 200.
The principal shipments from Astoria are salmon and lumber.


SALMON FISHERIES.
255

ISLANDS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER.
The city has a Chamber of Commerce, three hotels—the Occi-
dental, Astor and Barker—signal service office and five newpapers
—the Astorian and the Pioneer, both daily and weekly, and the
Transcript, weekly.
Astoria is often called the "Venice of America." The site is
certainly a very beautiful one, but we presume the name was sug-
gested by so much of the city being built over the water of the
bay.
Salmon Cann1ng—Is the chief industry at Astoria. Here are
located 28 large canneries, the annual business of which amounts
to nearly $3,000,000.


258 WINI.OCK—CHEHAI4S.
Leaving Castle Rock the country is unusually rough; tall pines,
firs and ash trees cover the valley and slopes together with a dense
undergrowth of willows and ferns. The river and all the little
streams are utilized in times of high water for floating logs and
wood. Five miles from the last station our train crosses the
Cowlitz river, which comes down from the east to its west bank,
and leaving it, we pass in two miles the little lumbering camp of
(Xequa, and Sopena [four miles], another of the same kind, and
then the big Rhoades saw-mill.
WinlOCk—[Pop.,1,oo0;froraPortland, 77 miles; Tacoma, 68 miles].—This
is a new settlement among the stumps, of what was only a few years
ago a dense forest. It is now an important lumbering town, with
five general merchandise stores, a number of small shops, two
churches, a good district school and one good hotel—the Winlock.
Connect1ons—Mail coach: Southeast daily to Cowl1tz, 6ve miles; thence
south to Toledo, two miles.
From Cowlitz—Mail hack north, once a week to Ethel, eight miles.
Also from Cowlitz—Mail hack northeast, three times a week to Ladew, seven
miles; Salkum, six miles; S1lver Creek, four miles; and Mossy Rock, seven
miles.
From Mossy Rock—Mail hack east, once a week to Osborn, five miles, and
Vance, 25 miles.
Leaving Winlock, fire, more than the woodman's ax, has de-
stroyed much of the large timber along the line of road, but the
young growth of trees is very thick and growing rapidly, among
which are tamarack, pine, fir, ash, oak and maple.
Napavine—[Pop., 200; from Winlock, seven miles].—Is situated ill
the timber, with two stores, a church and three large saw-mills and
a shingle-mill. Besides the ordinary board lumber, a large business
is done here in getting out large timbers and ties for the railroad.
It is a thrifty town.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: East twice a week to Rank1n, nine miles; T1l-
den, seven miles.
Passing the little station of NEwaukum [from Napavine, four miles],
a lumbering camp with one store and a big saw-mill, situated
on Newaukum creek, we soon reach Chehalis valley, in which are
many fine farms.
dlCliallS—[Pop., t,000; from Napavine, seven miles; Tacoma, 64 miles].
Settled in 1871. Is the seat of Lewis county, on the Chehalis
river. It contains five churches, good schools, three general stores,
two saw-mills, a shingle-mill, one planing-mill, two flouriug-mills,
one bank, several hotels—the Chehalis, the principal one—two
weekly papers, the Bee and Nugget. The principal shipments are
lumber, flour, wheat, oats, hay and fruit.
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West, twice a week to Claouato, five miles;
thence south to Bo1stford, ten miles; thence west to Pe Ell, nine miles.
CClltralia—[Pop., 1,500 from Chehalis, four miles, Tacoma, 50 miles].
Settled in 1871. Formerly known as Skookumchuck. It is a
thrifty town, beautifully situated on the Chehalis river, along which
are some agricultural lands, producing great crops of wheat, oats,
hay, potatoes and farm produce.
It has three churches, and a good district school; two flouring-
mills, four shingle and lath-mills, two saw-milU, two hotels—the
Ceutralia and Arlington—and one weekly paper, the News.
Surveys for a railroad pass through the town from Gray's
harbor eastward, claimed by some to be in the interest of the
Southern Pacific Co., of California.


MTS. TACOMA—RAINIER. 259
Connect1ons—Mail hack: West twice a week to Medow, eight miles;
thence southeast to Gleneden, five miles.
Also northwest to Grand Mound, nine miles; thence southwest to Indepen-
dence, eight miles; thence northwest to Oakvtlle, five miles. [See under
"Olympia."]
Leaving Centralia some fine fields appear, then more timber, a
big saw-mill, Skookumchuck creek, then the station.
SefttCO—[Pop., 650; from Centralia, seven miles; Tenino, four miles].
The station is down on the "time cards," as "Bucoda," but
Bucoda is nearly one mile away, where are located the Northwest
Coast Coal Co. 's coal mines. The coal from this mine is lignite
and, while inferior to anthracite, or the best quality of bituminous
coal, burns readily, and is a coal in good demand. The vein is
seven feet thick, opened by a slope, 14 feet wide, seven feet high
and 800 feet long. The out-put for the first nine months of 1888
aggregated 49,160 tons, employing 78 persons, eight mules and 48
cars of one ton capacity each. Most of this coal is shipped to
Tacoma and Olympia, and then sent to San Francisco on vessels.
Seatco is situated on Skookumchuck creek and contains two
general stores, one sash, door and blind factory, one planing-mill,
two saw-mills. The principal shipments are coal and lumber.
TenillO—[From Portland, 106 miles; Olympia, 16 miles; Tacoma, 39
miles].—Here goes forth the "Tenino, change cars for Olympia!"
This is merely a junction station where the Olympia & Chehalis
Valley railroad connects with the Northern Pacific.
6®"* The tour over this route, taking in Olympia, the capital of
Washington, will be S1de Tour No. 18, commencing on page 249.
From Tenino, our direction is more to the eastward, crossing
the Des Chutes river, and passing through many small clearings,
then into the timber again, ouly to be repeated time and again.
Many of the moss views while passing are very beautiful, the
pendant moss being very long, resembling, at a distance, trees
loaded with snow and icicles.
Vt'Illl Prairie—[From Tacoma, 23 miles].—This "prairie" is
more adapted to hay and oats than other productions, yet others
are grown to a limited extent. The prairie is more of a Park,
surrounded, as it is, on all sides by forests of timber. Stock-rais-
ing is a growing industry in this region, as second to lumbering.
MT. Tacoma—Is the name for Ml. Rainier in this region,
and Woe! to the person that calls it "Rainier" in the hearing of a
citizen of Tacoma.
But what is in a name? If the sky be clear a most beautiful
view can be had of the grand old mountain from this prairie.
How would a combination name do? Rainier-Tacoma or Tacoma-
Rainier? A Seattle man would want it Seattle-Rainier.
Nisqually river now comes in view, along which are some pros-
perous settlers; crossing, fenced fields appear to enclose good crops.
Passing the little station of Med1a [four miles], sometimes called
"Roy," with its store and lumber business, and then through a
strip of country about equally divided between grass-land and
timber, we reach H1IXHUrsT [six miles], where grain and hops figure
among the productions. Then comes Lake View [five miles], from
which it is eight miles to the protege and prodigy of the Northern
Pacific Railroad Co., its headquarters and terminus on the Pacific
coast—Tacoma.


TACOMA AND VICINITY. . 261
The Northern Pacific Railroad Co. have here an extensive plant
of machine works costing $1,000,000, and employing 500 men.
The wharves and piers are on the northern face of the city,
reached by a wagon road from the bluff, by an expensive dug-way
blasted from the face of the cliff wall.
There are three theatres, one business college, six newspapers—
the ledger and Globe, both daily and weekly—the World, weekly
and the Die Wacht Arts Sunde (German), weekly; of hotels there
are just a score; the principal ones are the Tacoma, Grand
Pacific and Hotel Fife—the latter on European plan. The charges
at these houses rate down from $3 to $1.25 a day.
Transfer "busses" and wagons meet all trains and boats;
charges, 25 cents for passengers, and 25 cents for trunks.
Connect1ons—By rail: Northern Pacific railroad for the north, east and south
by steamer for all points on Puget Sound.
Smelt1ng Works—The Tacoma Smelter Company, organized
1n October, 1888, have secured 25 acres of land four miles west
from Tacoma and erected large works for smelting the ores from
the Cceur D'Alene mines 'of Idaho. The parties are all heavy
capitalists from St. Paul and Chicago. The principal reason for
locating at Tacoma was the cheap coal for smelting. The works
cost $.500,000.
P1erce County, of which Tacoma is the county seat, has an
area of 1,800 square miles, the greater portion of which is moun-
tainous and heavily timbered. Lumbering, coal-mining and hop-
raising are the chief industries. Next in importance comes dairy-
ing and stock-raising. Much of the prairie land is gravelly with
light soil with some scattering swamp and swale lands. Where the
heavy timber has been cut off a thrifty growth of young firs and a
few cedar and oak covers the land. The agricultural portions of the
county are confined to Puyallup, Stuck and the Upper White river
valleys. The Puyallup valley lies on either side of the Puyallup
river, and in its agricultural portion varies in width from one quar-
ter to two miles, and is about 20 miles long. It is a strip of very
rich bottom land, and is chiefly devoted to hop-raising, there be-
ing at this time between 800 and 900 acres devoted to that industry.
The lands originally were covered with a dense growth of timber
and required clearing.
The Stuck valley lies between the Puyallup and White, and is
a narrow strip of land less than two miles wide by seven miles
long. The soil is very rich, being an alluvial deposit, and is cov-
ered with a dense growth of small timber. It requires clearing
which takes about two years.
The Upper White river valley is a small valley though of some-
what greater extent than either the Puyallup or Stuck. Its soil is
rich though not so rich as either of the other two. It is mostly
covered with a growth of vine, maple and alder, easily cleared.
The great wealth of the county lies in its coal mines and forests of
timber. See "Coal," "Lumber" and "Hops" under Olympia.
Puget Sound—Leaving Tacoma for the northern Puget
Sound country we take the steamers of the U. P. R'y. and are
soon afloat in a superb palace on the largest and most magnificent
body of water on the American continent. The water of the


262 SEATTLE—QUEEN BEE.
sound is very clear and pure enabling one to see objects in it to a
great depth. The navies of the world could float upon its bosom
and hide from view among its numberless islands, bays and inlets.
These islands and the whole country surrounding the sound and
its bays and inlets are always in holiday costume; being clad in
an everlasting dress-coat of emerald and gold, cut, fashioned and
be-spangled in the most gorgeous manner by the great architect.
The waters of the sound are not only beautiful and capable of
transporting the commerce of the world, but they contain a wealth
of life-sustaining food beyond computation. The vast country
bordering the sound and drained by the numerous streams that
find their way into it far exceeds in natural wealth any like area
on the American continent, or the famed regions of the old world.
In forests of timber, in mines of coal and iron, in its fishing and
hop industry, and its water-ways—the Puget Sound country to-day
stands without a peer in any land. And we believe had the "Pil-
grim Fathers" set foot upon the shores of the "sound" before
they landed at "Plymouth F.ock" the smoke from the Indian
"teepe" and the "wilds of America" would now be not far from
that celebrated stone.
By leaving Tacoma at 8:45 o'clock a. m., Seattle is reached in a
little over two hours; but, should the sky be clear, the moon at
the full and at half mast, do not fail to take the boat that leaves
Tacoma in the evening at 6:45 o'clock, as a view of Puget sound
by moonlight is one of surpassing beauty. The moon plays such
wild, weird and fantastic tricks with the surroundings that one
must needs feel the pulse to ascertain whether life still exists or by
some sudden transition the Utopian dreamland of childhood had
become a solid reality.
In steaming up the sound to within one mile of the city of
Seattle the traveler will see no indications of a city until the boat
suddenly rounds a headland, when there! just across the beautiful
El'iott bay, resting on the slopes of a monster semi-circle, seven
miles in diameter, the outer rim of which rises nearly 500 feet
above the waters of the bay, is the city of
Seattle—[Pop.,42,837; from Tacoma, 41 miles; Port Townsend, 40 miles].
Settled in 1852. Is the seat of King's county and the Queen-bee of
the Puget Sound country. Its west and portions of its north and
south front is on what is known as Elliot bay, of the middle sound.
Its northeast, east and southeast is on Black river, Lakes Union
and Washington and the Duwamish river, all portions sloping
towards the water from an elevation of about 500 feet. The cut-
ting of the inter-lake canal has made it possible to row around the
entire city in a small boat. Lake Washington is about 26 miles
long, from two to four miles wide, and 19 feet above the level of
the sound, and Lake Union about the size and 12 feet above the
sound—both fresh water lakes. Seattle harbor or Elliott bay
affords seven miles of water front, about one-fourth of which is now
occupied by docks, railroad depots, ship-yards, ferry privileges',
factories, canneries, dry-dock, great warehouses, and scores of
small manufactories.
Just in the rear of these comes large and most expensive busi-
ness blocks of brick, stone and iron, and stores, hotels and
shops of all kinds; and beyond still, rise terraced streets,
one above the other to the summit, on which stand churches,


SEATTLE AND VICINITY. 263
schools, colleges, and hundreds and hundreds of elegant
private residences, overlooking the business portion, the bay,
and sound, where float at times the flags of all nations, and be-
yond, to the snow-capped peaks of the Olympia range of moun-
tains. Then again, the eastern slopes afford views equally grand.
The beautiful Lake Washington appears in the foreground of the
picture, just above an immense forest extending away 70 miles to
the Cascade range of mountains, with the snow-clad peak of Mt.
Rainier as a central figure, 14,444 feet above the level of the sea.
The railroad tracks entering the city are laid along the entire
water front with switch-tracks to warehouses, manufactories, etc.
For commercial purposes, Seattle, topographically, is beyond
comparison on the north Pacific coast, as evidenced in its wonder-
ful increase in population and in its manufacturing and shipping
business. In 1880 its population was a little over 3,000, in 1887
about 16,200, in 1888, 32,000, and at the close of 1889 fully 43,000,
increasing in its industries proportionately, and it would seem that
this phenomenal growth must continue for many years, in fact as
long as timber, coal, iron, agriculture, manufacturing, trade and
commerce remain an essential element of prosperity to a city.
Navy Yard—The construction of the iq|fcr-lake canal was by
Seattle lumbermen, for the purpose of floating logs to the mills on
the sound. It is one-fourth of a mile long, 30 feet deep, from
15 to 50 feet in width, and cost about $65,000. The project of a
ship canal to unite the lakes with the sound has been urged upon
Congress by the officials of the territory in language as follows:
"We believe that the lakes situated near the city of Seattle,
known as Lakes Union and Washington, are peculiarly fitted for
the purpose, our belief being based upon the facts that they are
fresh water, with a depth of many fathoms; that they can be made
accessible from Admiralty inlet by a canal about one mile in length
the construction of which promises no engineering difficulties; that
these lakes are NKVER frozen; that they are bordered by extensive
forests of fir, which is the best timber in the country for ship-
building purposes; that good coal is extensively mined on the
banks of Lake Washington, and that iron ore is found in
abundance in the neighborhood.
"The climate is m1ld and salubrious, and remarkably even
throughout the year, and especially mild in winter when we con-
sider the latitude.
"The country is rapidly increasing in population, and it appears
to us tkat if our government is ever to construct a naval station in
our waters, it will be to its great advantage and iu the interest
of economy to select the site and acquire the necessary lands at an
early date."
The follow1ng notice taken of the subject in the governor's re-
port is further evidence to the same purport: "A ship canal of less
than two miles over an easy route would connect Lakes Union and
Washington with the tide waters of Puget sound in Seattle harbor.
The project of connecting these lakes by canal with the sound, for
naval or other purposes, has been under discussion by the United
States government at times since 1870, and it now seems likely
that early action will be taken in the premises, as renewed interest
in the matter has recently been manifested by public men and
engineer officers of the government."


WHATCOM—SEHOME. 267
WTiatCom—[Pop.,4,<,5q] -Settled in 1852. Is the seat of What-
com county, situated on a beautiful table-land at the head of Bell-
ingham bay, commanding a wide range of vision to the west, north
and east. It has a fine water power running through the town, on
which are located a large saw-mill and several small factories.
The town is reached by a long pier beside which vessels of large
tonnage can ride in safety and is one of the best on the sound.
Lake Whatcom, the outlet of which runs through the town,
is reached three miles east, is a fine body of water 316 feet above
the town, is about 15 miles long and from one to three miles in width.
MT. Baker, the snow-capped peak of which is in plain view
from Whatcom, is situated due east 35 miles, elevation 10,800 feet.
Whatcom contains one bank, four churches, a good graded school,
a saw-mill, a furniture factory and two weekly newspapers—the
Reveille and Democrat. The Whatcom is the principal hotel.
There are a number of general stores and shops of various kinds.
Sehome—sometimes called New Whatcom, is situated just on
the south side of Whatcom creek, and contains a population of
about 400. It has three general stores and several hotels.
The table on which are situated the twin Whatcoms was once
covered with a forest of heavy timber; some of the smaller trees still
remain and many stumps of the larger.
The Bellingham Bay & British Columbia Railroad Co. have a
road graded from Sehome for 25 miles and the track laid for about
half the distance. It is generally supposed to be owned by the
Canada Pacific Co., and will be extended to a connection with
their main line at an early day. The round-houses and machine
shops are being located at Sehome, where many new buildings are
being erected by the town, company and others.
Ten thousand—Represented the population that Whatcom
contained in 1858, more than the total population of all other
places'in the Puget sound country combined. On our late visit to
Whatcom we were shown by the editor of the Reveille a copy
of The Northern Light, Vol. 1, No. 3, dated July 17, 1858;
''price, 25 cents per copy.'' It was filled with advertisements of
all kinds similar to those found in many papers of the present
time in western cities of 20,000 population. Whatcom was at that
time the head of navigation or the outfitting point for tens of
thousands of people en route for the Caribou gold mines. When
the travel ceased, most of the citizens gathered up their tents and
abandoned the town, but at this time Whatcom is again on the
high road to prosperity; the country tributary is rich in timber,
coal, iron and stone, and where cleared, in agricultural land, pro-
ducing wheat, oats, corn, potatoes and varieties of vegetables, but
none for shipment, as the settlers are too much occupied in clear-
ing off their lands and speculating on the future prosperity of
their locality to raise more than enough to supply home
consumption.
Trusts—In coal and lumber, it is said, has paralyzed both kinds
of business in Bellingham bay country; very little coal is mined,
and no shipments of lumber are made. The "trust" pays a stipu-
lated sum per annum to the lumber companies, who formerly
shipped lumber, to have them close their mills.


270 OT.YMPIA—THE FRUITFUL.
Landing at the capital city sometime in the night, and as the
boat started on there turn trip at 6 a. m.,' an opportunity was afforded
our party for an appetizing walk in the gray of the morning,
before breakfast.
Olympia—[Pop.,5,oo.;].—Settled in 1852. Is the capital of
Washington Territory, and the seat of Thurston county. It is at
the extreme head of navigation on Puget sound—situated on a
tongue of land extending out into the bay, from which the slope is
gradual back for nearly two miles to a wooded ridge. This city—
unlike all others on Puget sound—is embowered in foliage. Orch-
ards of fruit, beautiful gardens of vines, berries, ornamental shrubs
and flowers surround the homes of nearly all the citizens,
reminding one of Boise, the beautiful. The early settlers were
from the New England states, and immediately after their arrival
in this fair land commenced to plant orchards and build homes in
that spirit of contentment which says:'"We have found our ideal
home on earth, in all that makes life worth living for, and here we
shall remain during the running out of the sands of time!" In
progressive enterprise—viewed from a "boomer's" standpoint—
Olympia is an "old fogy" town; but for all the comforts and lux-
uries of home life, with educated and refined society, good churches
and schools;, a healthy climate, abundance of fruit, fish and game,
convenient to all the great marts of trade on the coast, a crowned
queen at the head of the great Mediterranean of America, she
stands in her regal robes of green and gold, the "monarch of all
she surveys!"
The greater portion of the surrounding country tributary to
Olympia is heavily wooded, with firs and pines on the uplands,
and cedar, oak, hemlock and maple on the lowlands. The land
when cleared is of the richest and most productive on the sound.
Many varieties of berries "run wild" in the vicinity of Olympia,
particularly blackberries, huckleberries, and strawberries grow in
great profusion; of the latter, many attain a circumference of eight
inches.
We were told some have been found ten inches, but we did not
see them.
Olympia was the first place on the "sound" selected for the
terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, but the officers of the
company after securing the necessary terminal facilities from Olym-
pia concluded to go into town building for themselves; so after
securing all the land required at Tacoma, abandoned Olympia and
proceeded to "boom" the new Tacoma to its present prominent
position among the thrifty cities on Puget sound. The building of
the projected U. P. from the Columbia river and Gray's harbor, and
the extending of the Olympia & Chehalis Valley branch to the
coal mines at Bucoda, will elevate Olympia to her rightful
position as an important shipping point for lumber, coal and other
commodities on the ''sound,'' and tend to create and stimulate
established industries to a wonderful extent, besides placing the
city on the great highway of travel between the most productive
lower and upper countries.
Apples, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, raspberries, black-
berries and currants are raised in almost every enclosure about the
homes of the Olympians, and shade trees of maple, cypress, pine,
fir, mountain ash and spruce adorn their grounds. Their business
blocks are large and substantial, many of brick and stone; their


272 TERRITORIAL RESOURCES.
ASSESSED VALUE OF WASHINGTON.—The value of all taxable
property in the territory for 1889 was $84,621,182. The values of
six of the largest counties were as follows: King, $15,016,795;
Pierce, $14,021,842; Spokane, $7,212,509; Whitman, $7,084,745;
Walla Walla, $6,754,940; and Columbia, $2,825,000.
U. S. LAND–For the year ending June 30th, 1889, original
homestead entries, 312,740 acres; timber culture entries, 89,264
acres; cash entries, 133,803 acres; pre-emption filings, 359,643
acres; coal land entries, 18,720 acres; desert land entries, 24,000
acres; timber land entries, 85,600 acres. In the same time the
Northern Pacific railroad company sold 268,700 acres, for which
they received the sum of $1,292,473.30.
RAILROAD MILEAGE–The total railroad mileage in Washing-
ton territory up to June 30, 1889, was 1,197 miles, of which the
Northern Pacific operated 762 miles, and the Union Pacific Rºy
Company 282 miles.
CoAL—There are 11 great coal mines in Washington being
worked. The production of these mines for the year ending June
30, 1889, was as follows:
FIRST INSPECTION DISTRICT.
T
SECOND INSPECTION DISTRICT.
Bucoda........................................ 49,160 | Franklin..................................... 182,921
South Prairie.. 36,149 | Black Diamond. 186,522
Wilkinson .. 2,300 | New Castle....... . 158,134
Carbon Hill........ 203,702 Cedar Mountain . 52,813
Tacoma, at Wilkins.. I4,371 || Roslyn........... .234,201
—— Gilman......... . 13,528
Total tons.............................305,682
Total tons.............................828,119
Grand total, 1,133,801—an increase over 1887 of 608,096 tons.
GoLD AND SILVER—There are three prominent mining districts
in the territory—the Ruby, Salmon river and Galena. A large
amount of work is being done in these districts, but no reliable
data was obtainable.
IRON-Is found in immense quantities in King county near
Lake Washington and in Jefferson county near Ironton.
LUMBER—The forests of Washington Territory seem to be limit-
less, extending from the Columbia river on the south to British
Columbia on the north, and comprise the finest body of timber in
the world. The principal woods are pine, spruce, cedar, fir and
hemlock, with white oak, ash and maple for second place in quan-
tity. Large tracts of these lands, it is said, will produce 30,000
feet of lumber to the acre. There are 97 saw-mills in the territory,
which are estimated to have cut 1,043,596,000 feet of lumber during
the last year, loading 398 vessels. The amounts shipped to foreign
countries were as follows: Lumber, 43,133,732 feet; lath, 3,686,435
number; shingles, 4,741,500 number. Of this amount the Port
Blakely mills furnished 17 cargoes, or 10,675,814 feet.
BANKING cAPITAL–There are 40 national banks in the terri-
tory and 11 savings and private banks, aggregating a capital of
$1,152,834. In addition, there are 12 banks and bankers who
refused information.
FISH, etc.—The principal food fishes of the Puget sound are
salmon (hook-jawed), halibut, cod (true, black and tom-cod), rock-
fish, 28 varieties; smelt and herring. Mountain or brook trout
abound in all the streams coming down from the mountains.


TERRITORIAL RESOURCES. 273
Oysters, clams and mussels are abundant in the sound waters.
There are a number of clam canneries at different places on the
Sound.
Ind1ans—The total Indian population in Washington Territory
number 11,000 with 17 reservations. Of this number probably not
more than three-fifths live on the reservations, while the remain-
ing two-fifths either roam about or have homes of their own on
homesteads or land purchased by them, or in villages near white
settlements. They are generally peaceable, quiet, law-abiding and
and measurably industrious.
Agr1cultural Product1ons—East of the Cascades wheat is
the chief production, average yield, 25 bushels to the acre; barley
and oats hold second and third places. Fruit of many varieties
is raised; also potatoes, sorghum, corn, hops, melons, grapes,
tobacco and all the varieties of vegetables. Irrigation is seldom
resorted to, but could be successful if required to raise crops.
On the Puget sound slopes grasses, oats and root crops do ex-
ceedingly well; four tons of hay to the acre are common. The
country bordering the sound will produce every variety of grain,
fruit and vegetables grown in the temperate zone, and in great
abundance.
Hops is one of the most profitable crops raised on Puget sound.
They have acquired a rating equal to any raised in the world; the
crop is often contracted for in England before it is harvested.
Puyallup and "White river valleys contain the principal hop fields.
A low estimate of the yield of hops is 1,500 pounds to the acre,
though exceptional cases are recorded to double that amount.
Taking ten years together and the average price is 20 cents per
pound; they have been as low as seven cents and as high as one
dollar. The Puget sound hop crop for 1888 amounted to 7,350,000
pounds valued at 20 cents per pound, $1,470,000. It is claimed the
cost of raising hops is about eight cents per pound. Taking 1,500
pounds as the minimum at the average price of 20 cents, $300 per
acre will pay much better than book making, and we would like to
"swap" works.
Indians do about all the hop picking on the sound, many of
them coming every year in the picking season all the way from
British Columbia for that purpose, and when the season is over
they can be seen by hundreds coming into Seattle in their peculiar
gondola-nosed boots, and, after purchasing winter supplies,
push off onto the sound with their load of wife, babies, dogs and
provision for home again, as happy apparently as the same number
of Vassar college sophomores at a pic-nic.
Cl1mate, in the Puget Sound country, an old settlers says, is
one of "etheral mildness." Snow in the low lands is almost un-
known, and ice is made by machinery; the mercury in summer for
16 years never went above 990 and seldom above 80°. In winter
it seldom falls more than eight or ten degrees below freezing
point, and has never been known to reach zero in the history
of the country since its settlement, nearly 40 years ago. The
number of rainy days for the same period varied from 134 to 181 a
year, and included all days on which any rain at all fell within the
24 hours, and every day on which even a slight shower fell. The
greatest rainfall for the period was 67 inchss; the least 38 inches;
making a mean average of 52 inches a year.


274 . WAGES AND WIND.
Boat builders 3.00
Plumbers 3.00
Tailors 3.50
PER MONTH.
Mill hands .$30.00 to 125.00
Bakers 60.00
Farm laborers 25.00 to 30.00
PER DAY.
Molders 3.25
Pattern makers 3.50
Loggers * PER MONTH.
Teamsters $65.00 to 125.00
Choppers 60.00 to 80.00
Skidders, hook tenders..5o.oo to 75.00
Swampers 45.00
Sawyers 50.00 to 65.00
Common laborers 35.00 to 40.00
Boys 25.00
Cooks 35.00 to
fiQT'The records from which the above is a synopsis were kept at
Olympia, the capital, and can be found in full in the governor's
report to the Secretary of the Interior.
The following table compiled for the governor's last annual
report, gives the schedule of
Wages Pa1d for various kinds of labor in the territory.
PER DAY. PER DAY.
Carpenters $2.50 to 4.00
Machinists 3.00 to 4.00
Sign painters 3.00 to 3.50
Bo1ler makers 3.00
Tinsmiths 3.00
Longshoremen 4.00
Stone and marble cutters 3.50
Plasterers 4.00
Gun and locksmiths 3.00
Roustabouts 1.75 to 2.00
Coal miners (shift work).. 2.50
Coal miners (by the yard) 3.00 to 4.00
Mechanical engineers 3.00 to 4.00
Bricklayers 4.50 to 6.00
House painters 3.00
Shoemakers., 2.50
Blacksmiths 3.00 to 3.50
Day laborers 2.25
Gasfitters 3.00
Upholsterers 2.00
Ch1nook W1nd—From an article on this subject by the Hon.
Eugene Semple, Governor of Washington Territory, we make a
few extracts:
"Winds coming from different quarters and possessing
various characteristics, were named by the Indians after the coun-
tries whence they appeared to come.
"The east wind, that drying or chilling wind, according to the
season, that blows down the Columbia river with great force some-
times, was called by them the Walla Walla wind, because it
came to them from the direction of the Walla Walla country. In the
winter this wind brings freezing weather, and sometimes will close
the streams with ice. In the summer it is a parching wind, and
its approach can be noted for long distances as it lifts the dust
and dehris high in the air. It is an odious wind, and no one
wishes it to blow upon him. Fortunately its reign is always short.
It rarely prevails for more than a few hours, but will sometimes
continue for three or four days.
"Its enemy is the Chinook wind, so-called by the Indians alluded
to above, because it came to them from the direction of the country
of the Chinooks. This is a balmy wind, coming from the Kuro
Siwo, or great Japanese current of the Pacific ocean. In the sum-
mer it is a cool wind, and tempers the heat of summer so that
nowhere in Washington Territory do people fall down with sun-
strokes. In the winter it is a warm, moist wind, and is some-
times slightly odoriferous, as if spice-laden from the tropics. It
is so gentle upon ordinary occasions that its presence could not be
noted by its motion, and it is almost miraculous in its effects.
Snow and ice disappear before it with rapidity, and it seems to be
able to blow for long distances between walls of colder air with-
out parting with its heat. Sometimes it constitutes an upper current,
in which case the remakable spectacle is witnessed of snow melting
from the mountain tops while thermometers in the valleys register
below the freezing point. At other times it is the surface current,
and follows the valleys and gorges as a flood might follow them.
"This wind sometimes penetrates as far as the upper stretches of
the Missouri. Wherever it goes the chains of winter are unloosed,


SOUTHWARD BOUND. 275
and the ice-bound rivers are set free. The Chinook is the natural
enemy of the odious east wind, and while ordinarily it wields its
influence as gently as the zephyrs that waft the thistle downs in
autumn, still there are times when the two winds engage in giant
conflicts and fight for supremacy, now in the upper, then in the
lower strata, on the mountains and in the valleys, alternately
driving each other back and forth, swaying the trees, tossing the
leaves, and swirling the rain drops or the crystals of snow, as the
one or the other advances. But the combat is never long, and the
victory is always with the Chinook. The inhabitants east of the
Cascade mountains, when winter has seized them and the east
wind dashes snow in their faces, pray for the Chinook to come.
They look by day for its moist front, and listen by night for the
noise of its combat with the east wind, and when it reaches them
they rejoice. Such is the Chinook wind, the blessed wind of
the far northwest.''
Leaving Olympia, we take the cars of the Olympia & Chehalis
Valley railroad (narrow gauge), at 7 o'clock in the morning. The
depot is on the west side of the inlet, one mile distant. The main line
of this road is 16 miles in length to Tenino; the branches for timber
add six to the mileage. The first station is two miles distant, called
Turn water—meaning in the Chinook language, cataract—
waterfall—is situated in a narrow valley, just at the falls of De
Chutes river. Settled in 1845. It has a very valuable water-power,
on which is located a flour-mill, three saw-mills and several small
factories. The De Chutes river has a fall of 82 feet, within a few
hundred yards, discharging about 50,000 cubic feet of water a
minute in the driest season. The place has a population of about
250, most of whom are engaged in the lumbering business. There
are several stores here and one church, and a district school.
Tumwater is the oldest settlement in Washington, and is really
the head of navigation for any craft, and Olympia for those of
heavy tonage. Until the Northern Pacific railroad was com-
pleted to Tacoma, Tumwater was on the through line of travel
between Portland and Puget sound.
Following up the De Chutes river there is no station of note,
and only a few clearings, where are located a few settlers.
The whole country, with the exceptions above noted, is heavily
wooded; in some places the large trees have been cut off and a
vigorous young growth is rising from the sod. The wood is prin-
cipally spruce, pine, fir, oak, hemlock and maple.
Mounds—Within a short distance of the end of the road are
the noted "Tenino Mounds." They are round buttes or mounds
varying in height to ten feet, and in diameter to 25 feet; whether
natural or artificial is a problem yet undecided by the scientists,
who have had the question up for consideration at various times
for many years. Governor Squires says of these mounds:
"Many believe them to be- artificial. That they are natural
may be demonstrated by careful examination on the spot. If the
distribution of the materials of which they are composed be exam-
ined, these facts will be found: First, that in all those mounds
near Tenino three kinds of material enter into their composition—
the upper portion of every one of these contained a large share of
vegetable mold, rich and dark of color; the middle portion a sandy
loam, the base clay and gravel, or clay and boulders.


276 UP THE COLOMBIA.
"These three are so graduated into each other as to make it im-
possible to believe they were ever heaped or sifted into their pres-
ent relations to each other, but easy and natural to believe that the
succession in which they stood was due to the same causes that
made a like distribution in the fields around them. No artificial
heaping could imitate this. But again, the whole cloth out of
which these mounds were carved is yet to be seen in their
neighborhood.
"And again, the thickness of these uncarved portions varies in
different places, and the height of the mounds of the place always
corresponds with the thickness of this uncarved portion of the
strata; higher mounds from thicker strata, smaller mounds from
thinner strata. They are, therefore, not artificial. But may they
not be due to eddies in currents of water? No, there is no touch
of stratification such as water leaves. If any one will compare
those of Teniuo with those of Wasco county, in Oregon, on the
north slopes of the hills, six or eight miles from The Dalles and
plainly due to atmospheric agencies, the Tenino ones will seem
explained."
Arriving at Tenino we board the cars on the Northern Pacific
and return to Portland, and take a rest before starting on the last,
shortest and grandest tour of all others; and if you ever visit the
North Pacific coast, you should not fail to make it. The magnifi-
cent scenery is worth a trip around the world to behold.
HOMEWARD BOUND
VIA
STEAMER TO THE DALLES.
Side Tour Xo. 18—From Portland to Fort Vancouver,
Rooster Rock, Cape Horn, Cascade Locks to The Dalles,
by steamer.
Leaving Portland, viatheU. P. R'y. steamer, at 6 o'clock in the
morning, the route is the same as in Tour No. 16, to the mouth of
the Willamette river, where the boat turns to the right, up the
Columbia river.
The country on each side is under a high state of cultivation,
and dotted with farm houses, surrounded with orchards of fruit. A
number of saw-mills are located along the river and several
fisheries.
Vaneouver—[pop.,3,545;].—Settled in 1826 by the employes of
the Hudson Bay Fur Co., and incorported in 1862.
By steamer it is 18 miles from Portland and seven miles by
ferry and rail.
The city occupies a beautiful site on the north side of the Colum-
bia river, in Clarke county, of which it is the seat. It was here the
first Catholic missions were established on the North Pacific coast,
and is still the headquarters for that denomination. The Holy
Angels' college, a fine institution of learning, is located here.
Besides the Catholic, there are five other churches, several good
schools, one bank, one theatre, and a large hall, a flour-mill, sev-
eral saw-mills, a pipe company, V. S. land office, a number of
hotels—the Exchange and Vancouver are the principal ones—and
two weekly papers, the Register and Independent.


WONDERFUL CAPE HORN. 279
Rooster Rock—Soon after leaving Washougal our boat
steams along opposite this noted rock. It stands at the extremity
of a heavily-wooded point, and in the crevices around its base and
half-way up good-sized firs are growing. Yes! and one has secured
a foot-hold near the very summit. The rock is of basaltic formation,
with innumerable cracks and crevices from base to summit, in
which ferns, vines and mosses thrive wonderfully.
"Rooster Rock" is a fowl name, and many of the river "skip-
pers" say it should be changed; others claim the name is very
appropriate.
Near the Rooster are Lateourell falls, up a canon. The drop is
400 feet, and were they the only falls on the river they would attract
many visitors, but they constitute a beautiful babe beside its
elephantine brothers.
Cape Horn comes now in view on the left. It is an object
of much interest on the Columbia river and can be viewed best
from the boat. It is a bold, sharp promontory of basaltic forma-
tion, like all others on the Columbia, and rises for a first lift 285
feet sheer from the water, where it is but 30 feet in width. On the
west side firs, pines, maples and shrubs grow in great profusion,
extending upward and backward to the summit of the supporting
mountain 1,385 feet above the river. Cape Horn derives its name
from the danger in passing it. It is said the Wind Spirit lies in
wait for canoes and other small craft, keeping them weather-bound
for days together. The narrow channel of the river, the over-
hanging cliffs which confine the wind as in a funnel, and the
changes in temperature to which even in summer this locality is
subject, make this a stormy passage at certain seasons of the year.
The whole "cape" is creviced in a most remarkable manner,
much like a ''crazy quilt,'' and excepting in the most exposed places,
almost every crack and crevice support the roots of mosses, ferns,
vines and countless varieties of flowers. From hundreds of these
fissures, at certain seasons, gush sparkling streams of water, some
are mere threads, others equal to an ordinary garden hose in dis-
charge, falling and tumbling frem summit to base, presenting a
mountain of brilliant cascades.
Cape Horn is a marvelous curiosity. Should you conclude to
make this tour select the steamer MulTONOMah and interview Capt.
Pillsbury; speak to him kindly and he will point out to you the
principal objects of interest on the river, many of which we have
not the space to even name. We are under many obligations to
him for kind courtesies on our late tour, and hereby nominate him
for commodore of the Union Pacific Railway Company's fleet.
The landing for Cape Horn is just above the cliffs and is a good
place to stop over for a study.
The scenery from this point is beyond mortal pen to describe. It
is worth circumnavigating the world to view. [See large view No. 5.)
• 'Mid all the most magnificent scenic views in the world, particu-
larly in this western country, "business" crops out on all sides,
as instanced in the building of a flume four miles in length on the
Oregon side of the river opposite, for the purpose of ''shooting''
cordwood from the summit of the mountain to the bank of the
river. A good field-glass brings the whole plan of operation into
plain view.
Br1dal Ve1l Fall is nearly opposite Cape Horn. (Seepage 248.)


MARVELOUS SCENERY. 281
The Cascade Range derives its name originally from the
great number of beautiful cascades which pour out of almost every
ravine and crevice of the mountains, many times from the very
summit, presenting in the sun's rays a grand constellation of glit-
tering jewels.
Where the Columbia cuts its way through these mountains the
walls rise in one place sheer 3,100 feet from the water. At all
times not less than 25 beautiful cascades are to be seen when pass-
ing through the Cascade range, and in the springtime they can be
counted away up into the thousands. Some of these in their fall
from the heights are lost in spray before they reach the river below
while others come pouring down over the cliff over a thousand
feet above in one unbroken sheet. Many of these falls would pre-
sent at a distance the appearance of a mountain glacier were it not
for the fine sheets of spray, which are wafted by the winds in
clouds hundreds of feet away.
A day spent in climbing to the summit of one of the highest
peaks near the Multonomah falls repaid us by a view never to be
forgotten. The most magnificent views of earthly scenery are
presented from this point. High mountain peaks, covered with
perpetual snow, are to be seen in all directions. Among these
peaks the most notable are Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Adams,
Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens and the Three Sisters. The sight is
grand beyond description. At places, the country viewed with a
glass looks barren and worthless except for a stock-range, and the
waters move sluggishly towards the sea. At others the country
presents the most beautiful appearance with gardens, orchards,
vineyards, crops and herds—a perfect elysium. Again, it is cov-
ered with a thick forest of heavy timber; or, the broad, rich bottom
lands are awaiting the husbandman to yield a thousand-fold the
seed sown. Then again we look down onto the Columbia nearly
3,000 feet, a narrow channel apparently not wider than your hand.
Here the fantastic rocks, peaks, spires, domes and pinnacles; dark
and dismal gorges and fearful chasms, are bewildering i awe-inspir-
ing, indescribable. Make the climb, and our word for it, the vision
engraved on the tablet of memory will ever remain—growing
brighter as the head grows grayer.
Castle Rock—As we approach the lower end of the rapids we
find that, at the left, the heights recede and inclose a strip of level
sandy land, in the midst of which stands a solitary mountain
called "Castle Rock" 854 feet in height, surmounted with pines, firs,
shrubs, vines and flowers. ■
Orchards of fruit are now to be seen on the left in the midst of
which peep out the little cottage of the settler. These people are
clearing away the forest, and it will not be long before broad acres
of grain will cover the slopes where are now but a few dwellers.
In a cove near Castle Rock is a camp of Chinese engaged in
catching sturgeon, drying, packing and shipping the fish to China.
The Warren Salmon cannery now can be seen on the Oregon side,
and their big wheel for catching fish. These wheels, as we have
before explained, are operated by the current of water rushing
against the paddles which are provided with a bucket or trough on
the down stream side of the paddle board. The fish in their rush
up stream drop into these troughs, and the wheel revolving takes


282 AROUND THE CASCADES.
them up, water and all, and empties into a long flume through
which water and fish are carried to the cannery, and the work of
cleaning, dressing and preparing the fish for market is commenced.
It is rather a novel way to catch fish, but then the salmon when
on a run up stream in the spring is a veritable fool JisA, exposing
himself to all sorts of danger without the least regard for safety.
Lower Caseades or Cascades—Settled in 1852,by a Mr. Ham-
ilton, is situated on Hamilton island, and is the ^eat of Skamania
county, 63 miles from Portland by the river, and 47 from The
Dalles. At this place all passengers, freight, etc., going up or
down the river are transferred from boat to rail, and vice versa. A
floating dock upon which is a depot and warehouse is anchored
between the boat and the track of a railroad which extends the
length of the island (six miles) to the Upper Cascades, where
another transfer is made in like manner—a boat running regularly
between the Upper Cascades and The Dalles; distance, 41 miles.
Bonnev1he, the regular mail station on the railroad, is situ-
ated nearly opposite the Lower Cascades landing.
Taking a seat in the little narrow gauge cars, we are soon
whirled along through the timber to the upper end of the island.
Just before reaching it, a high butte appears on our right, close to
the track. Upon this butte stands the old blockhouse, heretofore
referred to as the one occupied in early days by Gen. Sheridan.
In passing over the railroad from the lower to the upper trans-
fer, and at the latter, many beautiful views are afforded of the falls
and rapids of the Cascades, of the work being done by the govern-
ment on the big lock, of the hamlet and station of Cascade Locks
on the south side of the river, and the towering mountain wall
beyond. It is a grand picture.
Upper Caseades—Here we leave the cars and step on board
of the steamer, and when the transfer of passengers and freight is
complete, we steam onward. The river widens out again in a lake-
like expanse, made picturesque with islands and handsomely
wooded shores, and the further we get away from the heart of the
mountains the more marked is the change in the surroundings.
Hood R1ver—a little settlement on the main line of the rail-
road, where we have been before, now appears in view. Passing
it, our boat hugs the Washington side of the river, and a beautiful
view of Mt. Hood is obtained, so near does it seem that we can
see the glistening of the snow where its cliffs reflect the sun.
Grand Amph1theatre—About five miles after passing Hood
river our boat rounds a sharp promontory and enters on the right
a small bay, from which rises a grand amphitheatre of cliffs to the
height of fully 1,500 feet. In places the wall rises sheer 500 feet,
then a terrace with a thick growth of trees, shrubs and vines, and
then another sheer lift of 500 feet, to be again repeated by terraces,
trees, etc. -
The rail-track runs close to the water's edge in places, tunnel-
ing and cutting through great rocky spurs which shoot down to
the river, inclosing as many little parks between, some of which
are occupied by settlers with neat little homes surrounded with
orchards and meadows. To our left are a number of beautiful


APPENDIX.

"PADDY" MILES.
Buffalo, N. Y., Sept. 29th, 1890.
E. L. Lomax, Gen'l Pass'r Agt., Union Pacific R. R.
Dear S1r—In answer to your letter to Mr. Brown in July last,
I send you enclosed my photograph, and a few facts which I
think will be interesting, together with a newspaper article from
a paper of 1869. I would have written you before, but have been
very busy.
I hauled Casement construction trains 67, 68 and 69.
The best track laying we had in one day in J. S. and D. T.
Casement outfit was eight miles of track. In the last year we
built 600 miles of road, from Black Hills to Promontory moun-
tain. Laid the last rail 10th May, 1869, on Promontory mountain,
Utah. I took the excursion on Promontory mountain the time
they drove the gold spike. Took the first train that came into
Salt Lake Valley among the Mormons.
I saw a nice fight one night, as I was on O'Fallon's train, just
as the sun was going down. The Indians came out of the bluff
to stampede the mules on a wagon train. They had quite a fight
with the mule drivers. They corralled the wagons, and after
they unhitched their wagons, they drove their horses to the North
Platte river to water. In the running fight there were two
Indians killed by the mule drivers. The mule drivers beat the
Indians, with one o • two of their drivers wounded.
Yours truly,
G. W. MILES.


APPENDIX. 285
A remark of this individual is occasionally called to mind
on crossing some of the trestle works on the Central Pacific
Railroad. When you look straight down, you will sometimes
fancy yourself somewhat in- the plight of characters who now
and then figure in the police court—with "no visible means of
support." The traveler recently took his first railroad ride, and
in passing over an elevated structure of this description, was so
terrified that he fainted. Coming to, after some moments, he
clutched the arm of the seat convulsively, and, not daring to look
out of the window, asked, in trembling accents of those around
him, "Ha— has the thing lit?"
ONE WAY TO STOP A TRAIN.
And, talking of railroads, you have, of course, heard of the
lady in Vermont, whose first trip upon a railroad happened to be
on the occasion of a disastrous collision between two trains. The
lady was thrown forward, executed a double somersault, and
landed uninjured in the third seat beyond. "Is this Cranbury
station?" she asked of the conductor, as soon as she had
smoothed down her dress and straightened her bonnet. "No,
ma'am," replied the conductor, "we are not at a station ; we have
met with a very serious accident, and I congratulate you on your
fortunate escape." "You don't say! An accident? Why, I
supposed that was the way you always stopped," said the lady,
as she peeped into her basket. That is not altogether unlike
the way "Paddy" Miles did it.
One day in January last, "Paddy" Miles (he disclaims
any relationship with "The Limerick Boy," and by the same
token his name isn't "Paddy," at all, but plain G. W. Miles,
which stands for George Washington, or some such ordinary,
every-day name), as he is familiarly known from one end of the
Union Pacific to the other, with the construction service of which
road he has been connected since the first rail was laid at
Omaha, was coming west with his train through Echo Canon.
It was a construction train, and was made up of a locomotive
and tender, a caboose and eighteen fiats laden with material. The
grade is here, on certain stretches, from eighty to ninety feet
to the mile. On one of these inclines the train had just entered,
and had commenced to feel the influence of the steep down-grade,
when conductor Miles, on glancing backward, to his momentary
dismay, noticed that the seven rear cars had become uncoupled,
leaving him with twelve, including the caboose. A wide gap had
already been opened between the two sections, in consequence
of the locomotive shooting rapidly ahead with its lightened load.
But the law of gravity now began perceptibly to tell on the rear
cars, and they were accelerating their pace and closing the gap.
There was but one brakeman on the uncoupled cars, and, even
were he not—as he was—paralyzed with terror, he could have
done nothing to check the fearful speed which these seven wild
cars had already obtained. Miles signaled brakes off, and to put
on all steam. The engine sprang to her work with the added

















The borrower must return this item on or before
the last date stamped below. If another user
places a recall for this item, the borrower will
be notified of the need for an earlier return.
Non-receipt of overdue notices does not exempt
the borrower from overdue fines.
Harvard College Widener Library
Cambridge, MA 02138 617-495-2413

Please handle with care.
Thank you for helping to preset
library collections at Harvard.


I.I.I.I.
3 2044