HD WIDENER HW WJD 7 Y A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES AND PANAMA FA OBER HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY RISTO ECCLE TAS ADEMIA IN NOUS CHR Vis 3 THE GIFT OF WILLIS ARNOLD BOUGHTON CLASS OF 1907 This book was stolen from Harvard College Library. It was later recovered. The thief was santa two years A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Cascade, Jardin des Plantes, Martinique A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES, BERMUDA AND PANAMA BY FREDERICK A. OBER Author of “Camps in the Caribbees," " Travels in Mexico," 16 Puerto Rico and Its Resources," “Our West Indian Neighbors" Etc., etc. WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK DODD, MEAD & COMPANY 1913 Sa 1160.5 2 TRVÄRD COLLEGAN H : (occ. 27, 1928) w.a. Boughton LIBRARY COPYRIGHT, 1908 BY DODD, MEAD & COMPANY : · · · . · . . . · . · . . . CONTENTS PAGE THE WEST INDIES . . . . . . . . . . . . I STEAMSHIP ROUTES, BERMUDAS AND WEST INDIES . . 14 THE BERMUDAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 THE BAHAMAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 CUBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 North Coast OF CUBA . . . . . . . . . . South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY . . . . . . . 131 JAMAICA . . . . . . 145 Santo DOMINGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Haiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Porto Rico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Saint THOMAS AND VIRGIN ISLANDS . . . . . . 316 Saint Kitts . . . . . · · · · . .. 336 NEVIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 MONTSERRAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 ANTIGUA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 BARBUDA . . . . . · · · 349 GUADELOUPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 DOMINICA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 MARTINIQUE ... St. LUCIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 SAINT VINCENT . . . . . i . . . . . . . 397 BARBADOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 GRENADA AND THE GRENADINES . . . . . . . . 429 TOBAGO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 TRINIDAD , . . . . . .. A GLIMPSE OF South AMERICA . . . . . . . . 499 PANAMA AND THE CANAL ZONE . . . . . . . 510 INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SIC . . . · . . . · . . . · . . . · . · . . . · . . · . . . 371 · . · . · . . . · . . . · . . . . . . . . . · . 451 · · .. . · . · ILLUSTRATIONS (6 11 . . 97 Cascade, Jardin des Plantes, Martinique . . Frontispiece Falms of the Caribbean, St. Vincent . . Facing page 10 Pineapple Plantation, Nipe Bay, Cuba . . Devonshire Church, Bermudas . . . . Hamilton Harbour, Bermudas . . . . Devil's Hole, Bermudas . . . . . . Ireland Island, Bermudas . . . . . . St. George's, Bermuda . . . . . . Silk-cotton Tree, Nassau . . . . . . Fort Fincastle, Nassau . . North Shore of Watling's Island .. Landing Place, Turk's Island ... Coffee Tree, Cuba . . . . . . . . A Hearse in Havana . . . . . . . General Maximo Gomez and Family . In the Vuelta Abajo Region . . . . . A Patio. Cuban Residence . . . . . Typical West Indian Street . . . . . II2 A Watch-tower on the Trocha .. II3 Ruins of Fort at Caney, Cuba.. Cayo Smith, Santiago Harbour . . . 125 View near Kingston, Jamaica . . . . Port Maria Harbour, Jamaica .... Castleton Gardens, Jamaica . . . . . Hanover Street, Kingston (after the earthquake) . . . . . . . . . Hotel Titchfield, Port Antonio, Jamaica . Port Antonio Harbour ....... Ruins Caused by the Earthquake, Kings- ton, Jamaica . . . . . . . . . Roaring River Falls, Jamaica . . . . . 201 o « 218 Puerto Plata, Santiago Railway . . . . Site of Isabella City, Founded 1493 . . . . Columbus Mausoleum, Santo Domingo . " 230 “ 124 140 “ 141 o « 200 219 viii ILLUSTRATIONS . . O 274 301 S17 324 325 330 . 334 35 Columbus Vault, Santo Domingo Cathedral Facing page 231 Interior of Church, Santo Domingo City . " " 248 o Columbus Casket, Santo Domingo . . . « 249 The Market Place, Cape Haitien . . . The Parade, Sans Souci, Haiti . . . Custom House Wharf, San Juan, Porto Rico . . . . . . . . . . . Luquillo Mountains, Porto Rico . . . . 275 Coast of Porto Rico, near Aguadilla .. Scene in Porto Rico . . . . . . . Plaza Alfonzo XII, San Juan . . . 300 Shore of Great Harbour, Culebra... Charlotte Amalia, St. Thomas ... Country Habitation, Porto Rico . . . Scene on 'a Sugar Plantation . . . Negro Labourers, Virgin Islands .. The Town of Bottom, Saba . . . . . Landing Place, Saba . . . . . . . 331 Fort Orange, St. Eustatius . . . . . Gateway of Fort Orange, Statia . . Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts . . . . . . A Bit of Basse Terre . . . . . . The “Circus,” Basse Terre, St. Kitts . . Charleston Landing, Nevis . . . . . Birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, Nevis Saint John's Harbour, Antigua . . . . Cascade, Guadelo:ipe . . . . . . . . Harbour of Pointe à Pitre . . . . . Mountain Valley, Dominica . . . . . Town of Roseau, Dominica ... Mountain Lake, Dominica . . . . . A Carib Girl, Dominica . . . . . . St. Pierre and Mont Pelée (before the eruption of 1902) . . . . . . . The “Obelisk” of Mont Pelée (after the eruption) . . . . . . . . . . Victor Hugo Street, St. Pierre (before the eruption) . . . . . . . . . . Ruins of Saint Pierre, Martinique . . . Fort de France, Martinique . . . . . < . . . 342 343 347 350 351 358 ILLUSTRATIONS 394 395 409 414 415 Statue of Josephine, Fort de France . . Facing page Ste. Marie, Martinique . . . . . . Port of Castries, St. Lucia . . . . . The Pitons, St. Lucia . . . . . Kingston Bay, St. Vincent . . .. After the Eruption, St. Vincent . . . . Ruined Sugar Estate (“Lot 14"), St. Vin- cent . . . . . . . . ... . Wallibou Sugar Works, Destroyed by Eruption of the Soufrière . . . . Weighing Sugar, Bridgetown, Barbados. Fountain in Garden, Bridgetown . . . Bathsheba Beach, Barbados . . . . . Where Washington Worshipped, St. Michael's Church . . . . . . . Native Huts, Barbados . . . . . . Forest of Cocoa Palms, Barbados . . The Grand Etang, Grenada ..... Cacao Tree and Fruit, Grenada ... Cocoa Palms of Tobago . . . . . Louis d'Or Estate, Windward Coa Tobago . . . . . . . . . . Off the Bocas, Trinidad . . . . . . Port of Spain, Trinidad . . . . . . Government House, Trinidad .. A Coolie Female, Trinidad . . . . . A View of the Pitch Lake, Trinidad A Street in Curaçao . . . . . . . 442 423 457 472 473 MAPS PAGE . 21 · 73 Bermuda Islands . . . . . . . Cuba, Jamaica and the Bahama Islands Jamaica . . . . . . . . . . Porto Rico . . . . . . . . . West Indies . . . . . . . . . · 16 16 " " 145 273 . . " " 511 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES THE WEST INDIES General Description. The West Indian archipelago, con- taining an immense number of isles and islets, with a total area of about 92,000 square miles, lies between the continents of North and South America, and consists of the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles and the Lesser An- tilles. The Greater Antilles comprise some 82,000 square miles, and their prevalent character is mountainous, with the highest elevation in Haiti (over 10,000 feet); the highest of the Lesser Antilles in Dominica, 5,000 feet. Nearly all the islands are mountainous, taken as groups, except the Bahamas, which are low-lying. Thus they present every variety of scenery, from that of the coral island lying almost awash with the waves, to the grand mountains of Cuba, Jamaica, Haiti and Dominica, tower- ing aloft, and clothed in tropical vegetation from sea- surrounded bases to cloud-wreathed summits. The high- est of these mountains are in the northern islands; but all the volcanoes, active and quiescent, are in the southern, or the Lesser Antilles. Climate. The climate of the entire archipelago is tropi- cal, with extremes in temperature (as on high moun- tains and humid sea-coast) of 55° and 100°; with an aver- age mean of 72º for the cool months, and of 80° for the warm months of summer. The annual rainfall is heavy, but most of it occurs in summer; and, by the operation of a natural law equally gratifying to the Northern tourist in search of sunbeams in winter, this season is also the most healthful. It is likewise free from cyclones, which some- times devastate the islands within the "hurricane area.” The heavy rains fall from June to October, and the hurricanes (when they occur) are most destructive in the months of early autumn. In the winter months the glorious vegeta- A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES tion appears at its best, the fruits are ripening, the sugar- cane is being harvested; in fact, tropical Nature is then wreathed in smiles and ready with a welcome. On the whole, the climate is extremely healthful, and conducive to longevity. Natural Productions. The West Indian fauna and flora are purely tropical, partaking of the South American char- acteristics. Native mammals are very scarce, hence but little shooting offers, except in a few islands like Barbuda, Trinidad, Santo Domingo and Cuba. The fishing, however, is excellent, all around the islands' shores, the captures ranging from flying-fish to sharks, presenting a great variety. Indigenous fruits and vegetables are numerous, compris- ing many kinds wholly unknown to the temperate zone. Sugar, cacao, coffee, and tobacco are the great staples, others in order of importance being bananas, oranges, lemons, cocoanuts, cotton, limes, pimento, indigo, nutmegs, maize, ginger, annatto, aloes, sassafras, castor-beans, yams, sweet potatoes, eddoes, manioc. The varied fruits include, be- sides those mentioned, the mango, custard-apple, cashew, grape-fruit, pineapple, pomegranate, mamey, papaya, plan- tain, shaddock, soursop, star-apple, Sweet-sop, tamarind, chirimoya, avocado pear, granadilla, sapodilla, etc., etc. Many islands can boast forests of mahogany, fragrant cedar, lignum vitæ, logwood, ironwood, green-heart, fustic, palms in many species, and scores of other valuable woods. Gold, which was at one time very abundant, is yet found in several streams of Santo Domingo and Porto Rico. Cop- per and iron occur in Cuba, Jamaica, and the Virgin Islands, which last also yield large amounts of phosphatic rock. Scarcely an island in the West Indies exists without thermal or mineral springs, while those of Cuba, Jamaica and Porto Rico have won a reputation for the efficacy of their waters, in the cure of numerous diseases, that has be- come world-wide. Population. The total population is something more than 6,000,000, of which number about two-thirds are blacks, or with African blood in their veins. The whites predominate in Cuba and Porto Rico, the blacks in Haiti and Jamaica, as well as in the smaller islands. The na- THE WEST INDIES tionalities represented are English, Spanish, French, Dutch, Danish, African, East and West Indian; of the last two the East Indies being represented by imported coolies, and the West Indies by a few hundred Caribs, descendants from the aboriginal inhabitants of the Lesser Antilles. No descendant survives of the Indians who once occupied the Greater Antilles, to the number, when the Spaniards first came here, of several millionis, for they were exterminated by the conquerors within a century of their arrival. History. The West Indies are interesting because here American history, so far as it relates to the white race in these islands and in the Western Hemisphere, had its be- ginning. Although there exist no important remains of the aborigines, who left behind them no traces of their existence save stone implements of warfare and utensils for domestic use, carved images and fragments of pottery, here we find relics of the first settlements, and can follow intelligently the routes pursued by the Spaniards in their conquest. On one of the islands in the mid-Bahamas, probably Watlings or Eleuthera, Columbus first landed, October 12, 1492. On the north coast of Cuba, probably in the port of Gibara, he made acquaintance with the Cubans, to whom he sent an embassy with a message from his king. In Haiti the port is to be seen where he first found gold in quantities; off the bay of Cape Haitien he lost his flagship, and on the shore he built the first fort; at the mouth of the Yaqui saw what he took to be mermaids, but which were prob- ably manatis; at the Bay of Arrows, in the Gulf of Samana, Santo Domingo, he had his first encounter with Indians. All the scenes connected with important events of his first voyage—by which the route to America was first opened may be identified, and followed by the traveller. On his second voyage he first sighted land at Dominica, in the Lesser Antilles, where still reside a few descendants of the Indians he encountered and whom he made known to Europe as cannibals. The spring at which he watered his ships, in Porto Rico, may be seen at Aguadilla, where it gushes forth in undiminished volume. Pursuing his voyage to the north coast of Hispaniola, now known as Santo Domingo and Haiti, he found that the men left in 4 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the fort had all been massacred, and retracing his course landed and founded a town, which he called Isabella. This, the first settlement by white men in America of which we have authentic record (save only that of the Norsemen in Greenland), was located on the north coast of Santo Domingo, and is described in the chapter on that island. This spot, as well as the forts erected by Columbus in the interior of the island, may be viewed by the hardy tourist who does not mind taking a departure from the beaten tracks of travel. In Santo Domingo (the city) we have the oldest settle- ment in America that has had continued existence since its foundation, in 1496, and here shall find many relics of the long-distant past, including the remains of Columbus him- self. Here he was imprisoned, and from its harbour sailed to Spain in chains. On the north coast of Jamaica we can view the little harbour in which he spent a year, imprisoned in his stranded ships, in 1504. In Porto Rico we may see the veritable castle built by Ponce de Leon before he set sail in quest of the Fountain of Youth; in Haiti another castle far more wonderful as the creation of a black and barbarous king, that of Cristophe, in the hills back of Cape Haitien; in St. Thomas is yet another, said to have been built by the buccaneers, who worried the Spaniards in the seventeenth century; and other castles, such as the Morros of San Juan, Porto Rico, Santiago de Cuba and Havana, are memorials of the times in which they were built. Succeeding Columbus, came several Spaniards whose names have come down to us through the centuries, such as Diego, his son, who was at one time governor of Santo Domingo, the ruins of whose palace may be seen in the capital of that island; Cortés, who sailed from Santo Domingo for Cuba and Mexico, at one time living near Santiago de Cuba; Balboa, discoverer of the Pacific, who was taken from Santo Domingo in a barrel to the scene of his exploits; Pizarro, who also lived a while in Santo Domingo; Las Casas, Apostle to the Indians, the ruins of whose college exist in the city of Santo Domingo; and *nany others. THE WEST INDIES Scenes identified with the famous buccaneers who com- mitted such havoc with the Spanish treasure-ships in the sev- enteenth century are to be found in St. Kitts, Haiti, and espe- cially on the island of Tortuga, where they made their head- quarters, and in Port Royal, Jamaica, once the "wickedest city in the world,” which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1692. Jamaica itself became an English island through its capture by Admiral Penn, the father of Pennsylvania's founder. All the West Indian islands were at one time in possession of the Spaniards, but many were lost to the French and British and Dutch during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The first Englishmen of note to sail the Caribbean were perhaps Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins, who came as slavers and privateers, both of whom died here and were buried in its waters. Other English names asso- ciated with the sea and islands are Sir Walter Raleigh, Lord Nelson, Rodney, Admirals Benbow, Vernon, Abercrombie. Raleigh made his famous Orinoco expedition from Trini- dad, as narrated in the description of that island; Nelson was married at Nevis; Abercrombie took Trinidad and made an attempt upon Porto Rico, 1797; Rodney fought with De Grasse, 1782, off the shores of Dominica, and broke the power of France in the West Indies by this victory. Thus, episodically, we might narrate the history of the West Indies; but, as it is given in detail in the chapters on various islands, we will only call attention to the fact that it is interesting, fascinating, having to do with the beginnings of history in this country, and with the deeds of great men whose lives have become part and parcel of that history, beginning with Columbus, and ending with the heroes of the Spanish-American War. Bermudas and West Indian Islands. When Area Popu- discovered sq. miles lation Chief port Bermudas ... 1515 20 18,000 Hamilton. Bahamas ... 1492 5,450 66,400 Nassau. Cuba ...... 1492 45,872 1,575,000 Havana. Jamaica .... 1494 4,000 740,000 Kingston. Haiti ....... 1492 9,200 1,240,000 Port au Prince. 6 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES : 60 When Area Popu- discovered sq. miles lation Chief port Santo Do- mingo .... 1493 20,500 600,000 Santo Domingo. Porto Rico.. 1493 3,600 1,000,000 San Juan. Danish Isl’ds 1493 142 33,000 Charlotte Amalia. Virgin Isl’ds 1493 5,000 Roadtown, Tor- tola. Dutch Islds 1493 436 52,000 Willemstad, Cura- çao. French Isl'ds Pointe à Pitre. 1493. 1,100 360,000 Fort de France. Leeward Islands ... 1493-1502 600 125,000 St. John's, An- tigua. Windward Islands ... 1498-1502 510 136,000 St. George's, Gre- nada. Barbados.... 1536 166 199,000 Bridgetown. Trinidad.... 1498 2,000 300,000 Port of Spain. Tobago ..... 1498 114 19,000 Scarborough. The Virgin Islands comprise Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada, etc. The Danish islands are St. Thomas, St. John and Santa Cruz. The Leeward Islands are Antigua, St. Kitts, Nevis, Mont- serrat, Anguilla, Dominica, etc., governed from St. John's, Antigua, where the governor-in-chief resides. All are British, as are Barbados and Trinidad. The Windward Islands comprise St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. The French islands are Guadeloupe and Martinique, St. Barts, and part of St. Martin. The Dutch islands are Saba, St. Eustatius, half of St. Martin, in the south, with seat of government at Curaçao off the coast of Venezuela; Oruba and Bonaire. The Caymans belong to Jamaica, as also the Turks and Caicos, so far as governmental jurisdiction is concerned. Distances between Principal Ports. In order to convey a correct conception of what a trip to the West Indies and Bermudas would cover, taking in all the principal ports and islands, the following table has been compiled ir this Guide by the Hydrographic Department of the THE WEST INDIES 810 180 35 80 60 100 United States, at Washington. The distances are ap- proximate and in nautical miles. Miles New York to the Bermudas... 700 Halifax to the Bermudas. ......... 800 Bermudas to Nassau, Bahamas...... Nassau to Santiago de Cuba...... 550 Santiago to Cienfuegos, Cuba...... 330 Santiago to Port Antonio, Jamaica.. 90 Santiago to Kingston, Jamaica..... Santiago to Montego Bay, Jamaica.. 155 Santiago to Port au Prince, Haiti.... 220 Santiago to Mole San Nicolas, Haiti... 146 Santiago to Cape Haitien, Haiti.... 215 Cape Haitien to Monte Cristi, Santo Domingo.... Monte Cristi to Puerto Plata, Santo Domingo...... 65 Puerto Plata to Santa Barbara, Samana Bay..... 115 Samana Bay (Santa Barbara) to Santo Domingo City 190 Santo Domingo City to Ponce, Porto Rico.... 190 Santo Domingo City to San Juan, Porto Rico... 200 San Juan to Charlotte Amalia, St. Thomas.......... Charlotte Amalia to Basseterre, St. Kitts........... 140 Basseterre, St. Kitts, to St. John's, Antigua......... Basseterre, St. Kitts, to Basseterre, Guadeloupe.... Basseterre, Guadeloupe, to Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe, to Roseau, Dominica.... Roseau, Dominica, to Fort de France, Martinique.... Fort de France, Martinique, to Castries, St. Lucia.... Castries, St. Lucia, to Bridgetown, Barbados......... 105 Bridgetown, Barbados, to Kingstown, St. Vincent.... 100 Kingstown, St. Vincent, to St. George's, Grenada.... Bridgetown, Barbados, to Port of Spain, Trinidad.... 215 Port of Spain, Trinidad, to Georgetown, Demerara.. 365 Port of Spain, Trinidad, to Ciudad Bolivar, Orinoco.. 450 Port of Spain, Trinidad, to La Guayra, Venezuela.... La Guayra, Venezuela, to Puerto Cabello, Venezuela.. 65 Puerto Cabello, Venezuela, to Willemstad, Curaçao.. 115 Curaçao to Maracaibo, Venezuela. 210 Maracaibo, Venezuela, to Cartagena, Venezuela..... 440 Cartagena to Colon, Isthmus of Panama........ Colon to Greytown, Nicaragua................. Greytown, Nicaragua, to Kingston, Jamaica...... Curaçao to Ponce, Porto Rico.... Curaçao to Santo Domingo City, Santo Domingo.... Curaçao to Kingston, Jamaica. ........ Kingston to Montego Bay, Jamaica..... Montego Bay, Jamaica, to Cienfuegos, Cuba......... 262 Cienfuegos, Cuba, to Havana (by rail across island)... 195 Havana, Cuba, to Key West, Florida.......... 96 30 40 80 340 275 250 ''........... gº Bay, Jamaica 8 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES 230 Miles Key West, Florida, to Tampa, Florida.... Tampa, Florida, to New York (by rail). 1,370 Key West, Florida, to Miami (direct)...... 130 Miami, Florida, to New York. ......... How to Prepare for the West Indies. To an old travel- ler, perhaps, advice under this head may seem super- fluous; but it may be stated, merely as a reminder, that while thin clothing should be worn, yet it will be ad- visable to take outer garments for the voyage and for the cool nights which are sometimes experienced. White flan- nel is preferable, as material for garments, to linen or duck, and thin flannels should always be worn next the skin. If one have time, complete outfits may be bought more cheaply in such places as Bermudas, Jamaica, St. Thomas, Barbados, and Trinidad, than in New York; flannels, and Scotch tweeds especially, being sold at lower prices than in the United States. The same may be said with reference to liquors of all sorts, with scarcely an exception, also sun umbrellas and “sola" hats (the East Indian helmet-shaped pith hat, which is the best head-covering for hot countries in the world). As a rule, prices range much higher in Cuba and Porto Rico than in the islands farther south. French wines and manufactured goods are lower than elsewhere in Guadeloupe and Martinique; all British products in the Eng- lish islands; gin, liqueurs, etc., in Curaçao and other Dutch islands. A steamer trunk, size about 36 inches by 20 by 16, should be taken for the voyage, with a rough-and-tumble “carry- all” of canvas for side-trips; or, in fact, any old valise, suit- case or portmanteau that will endure hard knocks without derangement. If a stay of any length is to be made, a dress-suit will come “handy” for dinners and receptions, especially in the more hospitable English islands. Ladies are warned not to wear open-work gowns, as the action of the sun produces a tattooed effect, which is undesirable when evening dress is worn. Of course, one will find a camera quite desirable, though photographs of almost everything "photographable” may be purchased everywhere. The films should be kept in tin cases, if possible, and may be de- veloped en route or at home. There are good stock-houses THE WEST INDIES 9 in the principal islands, and an itinerant photographer's dark-room is nearly always available. Foods and Beverages. Climatic conditions are about the same, at the same season, throughout the archipelago. The climate is in the main a healthful one, especially for the person who tarries but a few months, and no precautions need be observed that would not be taken in midsummer at the North. One should be careful, however, not to eat or drink to excess, and to confine one's self to the beverages and the viands of the country. The menus of the through lines of steamers are so redundantly varied and tempting that one is likely to over-eat of rich foods; and life on board ship, without exercise, is not conducive to good digestion. On shore one will find a great variety of tempt- ing beverages, to indulge in which one may be inclined on account of constant and excessive perspiration. “By the same token," one may imbibe more freely, with less serious conse- quences, than in cooler climes; but it will be well to confine one's self to the milder beverages, such as lime- and orange- ade, and the range of refrescos, or drinks which refresh with- out intoxicating, such as are mentioned in the article on Hayana. A staple beverage of the French and English islands is the native rum, usually taken in the form of punch, or "neat"; but let it always be old rum, and not the raw product which is offered at the tiendas and common shops. Cool cocoa- water, fresh from the nut, is by some considered a delicious drink, which those who feel they need an "eye-opener" in the morning strengthen somewhat by introducing gin or what they like best. The great drink of the “ice-houses” in Barbados and other islands is the “swizzle,” which is a sort of native cocktail, made of the ordinary liquors mixed in a vessel with cracked ice and sugar, and then stirred to a froth by means of the “swizzle-stick.” This stick is the stem of a native plant with radiating twigs, or roots, which, being deprived of its outer bark, is revolved rapidly between the palms of the hands in the liquid aforementioned, and, through the combined action of the motion and a peculiar saponaceous quality of the cambium layer of the twigs, produces a delicious froth. 10 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The true West Indian opens the day with “coffee,” which means not only that refreshing beverage, but crackers or buttered toast as well, and this serves until breakfast, which is served between ten and twelve A.M. Lunch is rarely eaten, breakfast being taken in its place; but “tea” is some- times served in the English islands, and in nearly all, espe- cially in the Spanish islands, a noonday siesta is taken, which is a decided "refresher," coming at the time when all nature, and man as well, is in repose, owing to the heat. Dinner, the principal meal of the day, takes place at six or seven, preferably the latter hour, when everybody is at lei- sure and can give unlimited time to the discussion, not alone of viands and their .concomitants, but of the affairs of the day. On board ship the regular hours are strictly observed, with early morning coffee, breakfast from eight o'clock, lunch at midday, dinner at six; but the West India custom is de- cidedly better. "Board and Lodging." The prospective sojourners are concerned, of course, as to the comforts and conveniences awaiting them in the West Indies, and may be assured that, with the excellent steamship service to fall back upon at various ports, there need be no apprehension on this score. In the Bermudas, Bahamas (at Nassau), Havana, Santiago, Jamaica, Barbados, and Trinidad are first-class hotels, with rates from $3 to $5 per day, where every accommodation may be found. Prices range about the same as in the United States and Europe for a first-class service, but "tips" are lower-that is, the payment of them is not pressed to the extreme that it is in other countries. The usual ten per cent. is a safe rule to follow, but really the servants are accustomed to much less. The customary discrimination, however, will be found to exist in favour of the native resident and against the casual visitor. Service is generally good, for wages are low, and the servants exceedingly will- ing; not only willing, but courteous and kind. In the smaller islands and towns, as a rule, second-rate hotels are met with, in which the visitor will not yearn to reside for a longer space than is absolutely necessary; but again, as in Grenada and Dominica, a simple hostelry may Palms of the Caribbean, St. Vincent Pineapple Plantation, Nipe Bay, Cuba THE WEST INDIES II be found so delightsome that one may leave it with regret. The rates in these "hotels” are about $2 per day, or $10 per week, which includes lodging, coffee, breakfast and dinner. By stopping at these native hostelries one may secure an acquaintance with the people and their ways, and also an inkling into the mysteries of native cooking, that would not otherwise be possible. For the West Indians possess some dishes that are really “fit for the gods," if any are; not to speak of their delicious drinks, some of which have been mentioned. You will want to eat of the bread-fruit, of course, which is only delicious when served West Indian fashion; and you must, positively must, taste an Antigua or Cat Island pine- apple if you desire to know what the gods themselves pre- fer for dessert. Get the old coloured cook to roast some cashew nuts for you, and eat them salted, like almonds; when in Martinique or Jamaica insist upon the best "grafted” mangos being brought you (for there is as much difference between them and the common kind as between an apple and a turnip). Try the whole range of tropical fruits, but try them in the morning; and you will never again boast that the temperate zone has better, or a greater variety. Then there is "pepper-pot,” to be fond of which is an acquired taste; but when once acquired will prompt one to an especial voyage for its gratification. Pepper-pot begins to be good in the southern islands of the Lesser Antilles, Barbados especially being noted for it, and British Guiana producing it in perfection. The basis of the pepper-pot, its preservative component, is cassareep, the concentrated juice of the bitter cassava, which in its crude state is a violent poison. The other ingredients are, or ought to be, a mystery to the partaker, since the mere enumeration of them is not always appetizing, consisting of chopped pork and fowl, shallots, cane-sugar, salt, cayenne pepper, the concoc- tion being simmered and boiled until thoroughly homogene- ous. Into the pepper-pot, after it has been prepared (and it should always be contained in an earthern jar, or pipkin), are thrown shreds and bits of meat from the table; in fact, “any old things” in that line, for which the cassareep acts 12 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES as a perpetual preserver. The older the better, it is said, and some families are the envied possessors of pepper-pots at least one hundred years old. What their constituents are by the time this age is reached, and how many inquisi- tive cockroaches have found untimely burial-places therein, one shudders to contemplate ! In the Spanish islands insist upon being served with camarones, or crayfish, from the mountain streams; but they are better the farther south one gets. Then there are the "tri-ti-ri," or miniature white-bait, thousands of which go to furnish a meal, but are delicious served with a dash of “chili” and lime-juice. In the islands of Dominica and St. Kitts ask for the crapaud, even if you have a preju- dice against eating frog-meat, which will be served to you as “mountain chicken,” perhaps; and in any event the flesh is excellent. So is that of the native iguana, a species of lizard, which you will enjoy if you have not previously seen the reptile from which it was taken-preferably from the tail. There is still another “delicacy” in store for the gourmet, if peradventure he desires to investigate further : the broiled "gru-gru worms,” or larvæ from the na- tive palm, which are said to be delicious. All other forms of food mentioned above, the writer has partaken of and enjoyed; but the reader must take the palm-larvæ on trust, for they are not recommended from personal acquaintance. West Indian shell-fish are not the equals of their kind in the North, but one will desire, of course, to try the oysters that grow on the mangroves in Trinidad and Jamaica, and will find them rather "coppery." Other things toothsome and rare are to be found in the islands, but too numerous for particular mention; and our advice to the reader is, get acquainted with the cooks! Passports and Customs. While it is always best for the traveller to provide himself with a general passport every few years, still it is only on very rare occasions that he will be compelled to show it. Passports may be obtained by any citizen of the United States by addressing the Department of State, Passport Bureau, Washington, D. C., enclosing cur- rency or postal money-order for one dollar with the applica- tion, which must be in the form of an affidavit, blanks for THE WEST INDIES 13 which are furnished by the Department, or by consuls abroad. No passport is required in Cuba or Porto Rico, nor in the French, British, Danish, or Dutch islands; but one should be provided for visiting Haiti and Santo Domingo, also for Venezuela, and viséd by their respective consuls, in New York, before sailing. This, however, is in case one intends to make a stay in either island, or country. This informa- tion was kindly furnished by the Chief of the Passport Bu- reau, Department of State, Washington, D. C. Very little trouble is experienced with customs officials in the West Indies, most of them being courteous, even atten- tive, and seemingly desirous of assisting the traveller, rather than detaining either him or his luggage. Superfluous fire- arms, ammunition, spirits, etc., are forbidden entry in almost every civilized country; and on returning, either to the United States or to a British port, one's personal luggage is generally passed free of duty, allowing an opened box of cigars, 100 cigarettes, etc., with trinkets bought as souvenirs; but not valuables purchased for sale again, or to any great extent as gifts to friends. Money in Use. English and American gold and bank- notes pass current anywhere; but a letter of credit (from any reputable bankers) is the best form in which to take funds for an extended trip. STEAMSHIP ROUTES, BERMUDAS AND WEST INDIES New York-Bermudas. The Quebec Steamship Company: New York, Bermudas and West Indies Line. Sailings every week from February to May; to August 1, every ten days; steamers 3,100 to 10,500 tons; length of voyage, forty-two to forty-eight hours. The same line runs between New YORK AND THE LESSER ANTILLES, comprising St. Thomas, Santa Cruz, St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Barbados; thence to Demerara. Sailings every two weeks; time to nearest port about six days, and between ports among the islands a night or half a day. Round trip, Demerara and back, about thirty days, with privilege of stop-over at various islands. New York-Barbados direct, returning through the islands; sailings every three weeks; cruise lasting about seventeen days. The Bermuda Atlantic Steamship Company, in conjunction with the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, has a regular service to Bermuda. The boats of this line leave New York every Thursday morning and every Saturday from Bermuda. The fare for the round trip ranges from $20 to $125. The Royal Steam Packet Company also maintains a regular ser- vice to Cuba, Jamaica, Colon, Cartagena, Trinidad and Barbados. St. John, N. B., Halifax, N. S.-Bermudas and the West Indies. The Pickford and Black Steamship Com- pany. Every twelve days to Bermudas and Lesser Antilles ; 20th of every month for Bermudas, Turks Island, Santiago de Cuba and Jamaica; 5th of every month for Santiago de Cuba and Kingston, Jamaica. Specimen tour: Leave St. John ist of month; Halifax, 2d; Bermudas, ioth to 14th (St. Kitts, 18th; Antigua and Mont- serrat, 19th); Dominica, 18th; St. Lucia and St. Vincent, 19th; Barbados, 20th; Trinidad, 21st; Demerara, 23d. Re- STEAMSHIP ROUTES 15 turn: Leave Demerara, 26th ; Trinidad, 29th; Barbados, ist; St. Vincent and St. Lucia, 2d; Dominica, 3d ; Montserrat, 4th; Antigua, 5th; St. Kitts, 7th ; Bermudas, 12th; Halifax and St. John, 15th. Distances: Halifax-Bermudas, 800 miles ; St. Kitts, 925; Antigua, 60; Dominica, 123; Barbados, 170; Trinidad, 210; Demerara, 360. Total, 2,648. Bristol, England, and Bermudas. Steamers of the Im- perial Line, monthly, on voyage to and from Jamaica. New York-Bahamas and Cuban Ports. New York and Cuba Mail Steamship Company (Ward Line). Semi-weekly sailings, New York-Havana, each way. Weekly sailings, New York-Guantanamo, Santiago, Man- zanillo and Cienfuegos. Fortnightly sailings, New York and Nassau, N. P., Bahamas. Weekly service in winter. Distances: New York to Nassau, 940 miles; Havana, 1,190; Guantanamo, 1,286; Santiago de Cuba, 1,327; Manzanillo, 1,490; Cienfuegos, 1,640 miles. New York-Havana, Cuba. Florida East Coast Railway: this North-and-South System extends entire length of Florida, the coral keys off south coast of which it has made stepping-stones to Key West, within ninety miles of Havana. While Miami was for several years the southern terminus of the East Coast System, an extension was completed in 1911 which carried it to Key West. This far eclipses even the wonderful work accomplished in opening East Florida's coast to winter tourists. This extension covers the dis- tance between Miami and Key West, 165 miles, follow- ing the line of Keys, which are connected by immense via- ducts, the water channels being so numerous that only sixty- five miles of the construction is on natural foundations. This great enterprise was conceived and carried out by Henry M. Flagler, to whose efforts are due almost entirely the opening up of the east coast of Florida as a summer resort. The country opened by the new road lay almost exactly as it did when the Europeans first discovered the country. As a result of its building, there now extends along the line a romantic series of towns, which are the favorite winter homes of many northern tourists. The road was A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES opened to Key West in February, 1912, and the city com- memorated the event by a series of celebrations. The longest viaduct is that connecting Long Key and Conch Key, 10,500 feet; other extensive ones being Moser Key Channel, 7,800 feet; Knights, 7,300 feet; and Bahia Honda, 4,950 feet. Time: New York-Jacksonville, Florida, twenty-five hours; Jacksonville-Key West, fourteen hours. At Havana railroads centre which cover almost all points in Cuba; steamers may be taken for Mexico, Spain, Ger- many, England, France, and connections made for Spanish Main and Isthmus of Panama, as well as direct lines for New York, New Orleans, Tampa, etc.; PENINSULAR AND OCCIDENTAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY Schedule of Key West-Havana Line Leave Key West.... Sundays Tuesdays Thursdays....9.30 A.M. Arrive Havana..... Mondays Wednesdays Fridays.......5.30 P.M. Leave Havana...... Mondays Wednesdays Fridays.......9.30 A.M. Arrive Key West... Tuesdays Thursdays Saturdays ....4:30 P.M. Port Tampa-Havana Line via Key West. Leave Port Tampa Sundays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, 11.30 P.M. Arrive Key West Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, 5.30 P.M. Leave Key West Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, 8.30 P.M. Arrive Havana Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, 6.30 A.M. Leave Havana Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, 12 noon. Arrive Key West Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, 8.30 P.M. Leave Key West Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, 10.30 P.M. Arrive Port Tampa Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays, 6.30 P.M. New York-Cuba, North Coast. Munson Line. Leave New York every other Wednesday for Antilla (Nipe Bay) direct; Nuevitas, Gibara, Vita, Puerto Padre. Return: Nuevitas, Antilla, New York. Round trip consumes about twenty days. New York to Nuevitas direct; Antilla, Gibara, Vita, Puerto Padre. Return: Nuevitas, Nipe Bay, New York. About three weeks' trip. New Orleans-Havana. Southern Pacific, Atlantic Steam- ship Lines. Sailings about every five days during winter season. New York-New Orleans-Havana. Also in effect a round STEAMSHIP ROUTES trip: New York-New Orleans via Southern Pacific steam- ships; return, via Havana, by Ward Line. New York-Porto Rico. Distance, 1,380 miles. The New York and Porto Rico Line, weekly sailings, leav- ing New York on Saturdays, reaching San Juan in four to five days. Time to Ponce and Mayaguez about six days. . Special cruises to and around Porto Rico, living on board ship. Porto Rico and New Orleans: Distance, 1,460 miles. New York and Porto Rico Line, sailings every ten days. Rates same as to and from New York. New Orleans ex- cursion tickets valid over New York service returning. New York-Porto Rico-Curaçao-Venezuela, Red D Line to and from Venezuela via Porto Rico. Bi-weekly sailings to Porto Rico. Time, four to five days. Schedule given under “Curaçao." New York and Europe to the West Indies. The Ham- burg-American Line, West Indian special, the Atlas Ser- vice, with frequent sailings for Jamaica, Haiti, St. Thomas, Cuba, Colon, and Spanish Main. New York-Jamaica every Saturday; returning, Kingston- New York, every Wednesday; extra service in winter season; also special excursions to and through Caribbean, all principal islands, in winter. Specimen route: New York-Jamaica, etc.: Leave New York, say, 4th of month; arrive Fortune Island, Bahamas, 8th; Kingston, Jamaica, Ioth; Savanilla, 12th; Cartagena, 15th ; Port Limon, 17th; Kingston, Jamaica, 22d; Fortune Island, 23d; New York, 28th. New York-Haiti, weekly sailings, every Wednesday. Specimen route: Leave New York, 6th; arrive Inagua, Bahamas, lith; Cape Haitien, 13th ; Port de Paix, 14th ; Port au Prince, 15th; St. Marc, 16th; Aux Cayes, 18th; Jacmel, 19th ; Santa Marta (Colombia), 22d; Port au Prince, 24th; Inagua, 24th; New York, 29th. New York-Panama (Colon). Specimen route: Leave ist of month; arrive Kingston, Jamaica, 6th; Colon, 8th; leave Colon, 19th; Kingston, 21st; arrive New York, 26th. Hamburg-Havana, Cuba. Leave Hamburg 14th (via Havre, 18 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Santander, Corunna), arriving Havana in seventeen days. Return: Leave Havana 17th every month. Hamburg-St. Thomas-Havana. Leave Hamburg 28th and 29th every month, arriving St. Thomas 10th or Iith and Havana 15th or 16th. Return: Leave Havana ist or 2d, St. Thomas 5th or 6th, etc. Coaling station maintained at St. Thomas (Charlotte Amalia), from which port a subsidiary steamer makes a monthly trip as far as Santiago de Cuba and return, touch- ing at southern ports of Santo Domingo, Porto Rico, Haiti, and Jamaica. New York-Santo Domingo. The Clyde Line, with steamers to Santo Domingo, touching at Turks Island, Bahamas, makes fortnightly trips between New York and Santo Domingo City. New York, U. S. A., and Southampton, England, via West Indies. Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, fort- nightly sailings alternate Wednesdays from Southampton and Saturdays from New York; on western voyage calling at Cherbourg, France; Vigo, Spain; and Azores Islands. In West Indies : Barbados, Trinidad; La Guayra, Venezuela ; Puerto Colombia, Cartagena, Colon, Jamaica, thence direct to New York. Voyage east, reverse: New York-Jamaica (four days), Colon-Barbados, etc. Specimen Route, New York-Southampton: Jamaica Limon Colon .................. Cartagena ...... Puerto Colombia.. La Guayra..... Trinidad ... Barbados ....... Cherbourg ................... Southampton ....... At Barbados passengers and mail transshipped to Inter- colonial Mail Steamers for Windward and Leeward Islands and as far as St. Thomas. The Transatlantic steamers are the largest in this service; we Intercolonial staunch and of 2,000 tons; and besides these .......................... ......... ........ ........ 30 STEAMSHIP ROUTES 19 ing at ton Paint COBOSE are local steamers plying around Dominica, Jamaica, St. Lucia, Trinidad, Grenada, and Tobago; between Bar- bados, St. Lucia, Martinique, Dominica; between Trinidad and Tobago. Fares furnished on application. In addition to its regular service the company arrange's special winter and summer tours, New York-Jamaica ; also special winter cruises, twelve to forty days, all chief islands, etc. Direct line, English, to Cuba and Mexico, call- ing at Spanish ports. Boston-Philadelphia-Baltimore-New York-Jamaica. The United Fruit Company, Long Wharf, Boston. Weekly sailings from Boston, Philadelphia and Baltimore, for Port Antonio and Kingston, Jamaica. Distance from Boston, 1,590 miles; time, four and one-half days; from Philadelphia, 1,400 miles; time, four days. Fort- nightly sailings from New York. Fine feet of thirty steamers, specially built and equipped for tropical voyaging, furnished with every requisite for comfort of tourists. (Further details in chapter on Jamaica.) Bristol, England-Jamaica. The Imperial Direct West India Mail Service Company, fortnightly sailings, each way, Avonmouth (Bristol)-Turks Island-Jamaica, calling at Ber- mudas. Length of voyage, ten to twelve days. The Imperial transatlantic fleet, averaging 5,000 to 7,000 tons. Island steamer Delta, auxiliary boat belonging to this line, makes trip around Jamaica every week; first- class accommodations. New York and Netherlands via West Indies. Royal Dutch West Indian Mail Line, fortnightly sailings, from New York and Amsterdam. New York to Port au Prince, 1,360 miles; Aux Cayes, 223 miles; Jacmel, 70 miles ; Curaçao, 426 miles; Puerto Cabello, 117 miles; La Guayra, 70 miles; Guanta, 148 miles; Cumana, 40 miles; Carupano, 123 miles; Trinidad, 110 miles; Demerara, 360 miles; Para- maribo, 180 miles; thence to Holland direct, and vice versa. New York-Grenada-Trinidad. The Trinidad Line of steamers, sailing every ten days for Grenada and Trinidad, connecting at latter island for Tobago, Ciudad Bolivar (Orinoco), and Venezuelan ports. 20 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Glasgow and Londo:1-British Guiana and West Indies. The Direct Line, sailing regularly in the season. Route includes Barbados, Trinidad, Tobago, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, St. Kitts, Dominica, etc. Liverpool-West Indies. The Harrison Line (cargo steamers), Liverpool to Barbados, Trinidad, and Belize, British Honduras. The Leyland Line, sailing regularly to Barbados, Trinidad, La Guayra, Venezuela, Curaçao, Cartagena, Colon, and Kingston, Jamaica. Montreal-Halifax-Nassau-Havana. The Canadian Line, monthly sailings. New York-Barbados and South American ports. The Booth Steamship Company, monthly sailings. All passen- ger steamers call at Barbados—direct voyage to and from New York—and a round-trip ticket is issued, which includes 4 days at the Marine Hotel, all expenses paid. New York-Lesser Antilles and Demerara. The Deme- rara Line, irregular sailings. New York and Brazilian ports, calling at Barbados on return voyage. The Lamport and Holt Line, monthly sailings. New York-Havana. Compania Trasatlantica, monthly sailings. Bookings for all lines can be made with the Raymond and Whitcomb Company, 25 Union Square, New York. THE BERMUDAS The wandering mariner whose eye explores The wealthiest isles, the most enchanting shores, Views not a realm so beautiful and fair, Nor breathes the spirit of a purer air, By the gay borders of Bermuda's Isles Where spring with everlasting verdure smiles. Situation and Scenery. Seven hundred miles southeast of New York, but only 600 east of Charleston, lies the group, or rather cluster, of isles and islets known as the Bermudas. Two days of steaming takes one there; and yet to many they are as little known as in the time of Shakespeare, who took the motif of his play, The Tempest, from the name the Spaniards gave them: Los Diablos, or the "Isles of Devils.” Isles of the Blest would be a better name, for their allurements are many, and only the approaches to them are forbidding, fended as they are by dangerous reefs, whose jagged jaws wrought disaster to the first ships that ventured near to those "still-vexed Bermoothes." Their countless charms will bear a close inspection, so let us approach (perforce, with a good pilot at the helm) and view them nearly. The nearer the better, for the more narrowly they are examined the more charming they appear. There are but half a dozen of good size; but in the aggre- gate, big and little-islets, cays, and rocks—they number : more than 300, the total area of which is only 20 square miles. This cluster of coral islands forms a modified atoll, supported by a submarine mountain, based on the ocean- bed three miles below, and with its peaks protruding here and there (like the isolated “North Rock," eight miles off shore), in outline like a fish-hook or a shepherd's crook. It lies invitingly open toward the northwest (New York), from which direction the steamers come, and presents an almost unbroken front to the vast expanse of ocean south, or West Indies-ward. The harbour of St. George's opens eastward, but landings are usually made at Hamilton, ac- cess to which is only obtained by groping along the west 22 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES coast to Grassy Bay and the Great Sound, which are land- locked-at least by reefs, which keep out the ocean rollers- and admit one at once to the heart of the Bermudas. To gain an intelligent conception of the Bermudas' topog- raphy, one should, as soon as possible, climb the various heights, such as Sears Hill, 260 feet above sea-level; Wreck Hill; the heights above St. George's; Prospect Hill, and especially the lighthouse on Gibbs Hill, the lantern of which is 360 feet above sea level. Nearly or quite 100 miles of perfect roads give access to every point of interest in the islands, though the distance between extreme points, as St. George's and Ireland Island, is scarce 25 miles, and the width varies from almost nothing to three miles. Climate. While configuration and colour are the elements that contribute chiefly to Bermuda's superficial charms those apparent at first glance-her real and lasting attrac- tion is climatic. Adapting good old Walton's remark anent the strawberry: "Doubtless God might have made a better climate, but doubtless God never did !” That is, with cer- tain reservations. It is not a climate well adapted to those afflicted with tuberculosis; it becomes “terribly trying" when experienced through all the months in the year; but it affords a delicious change from that of regions but little more than 10° to the north and east of the Bermudas, Snuggled as they are within a curve of the Gulf Stream, all wintry blasts are so tempered that the temperature rarely descends below 60° Fahrenheit, nor in summer does it rise much above 80. Indeed, the Bermudians aver that they pos- sess a more agreeable summer climate than the United States and Canada can boast; more equable than that of the northern regions, and more reliable, though always warm. A sea-voyage, as we know, is always agreeable, and the Bermudas are ever at sea. They have squalls and rains, mists and fogs, but never frosts or snow. The relative humidity is great, the dampness is that of the sea-coast everywhere; but the climate is abnormally healthful, as the numerous aged people cheerfully testify. A long resi- dence here may be debilitating, but a temporary sojourn cannot be otherwise than beneficial to the overworked and nervously prostrated. All in all, a more salubrious climate Devonshire Church, Bermudas Hamilton Harbour, Bermudas THE BERMUDAS 23 it would be difficult to find in a region, whether insular or continental, so accessible as this. It is at its best from November to May, inclusive, though tolerable up to July, and at its worst from the last-named month to October, when autumn breezes cool the atmosphere for the especial benefit of the winter tourists. Bermuda's colour-scheme appears, at the first glance one gets into the Great Sound, white and green-pure white, dazzling white; sombre greens of the cedars, golden greens of the palms and bananas. “The green hills of many islets," wrote an artist many years ago, “rise above the brilliant opalescent tints of its lucid waves above the snowy coral reefs. ... The stranger Aoating here, above the white shoals, will be wonder-struck by the marvellous clearness of the sea-water and the strange effects. The sunlight reaches many fathoms deep into this vast submarine plain, displaying every object clearly to the gaze, as one glides swiftly over it. And then the colour: that beautiful bewil- dering green-just the shade that one catches in the gleam of an opal, or the tint of malachite. Painters have sought to rival it, but in vain.” Colour and contour, then, appeal to one from the cold and colourless North, especially in the winter, when, with the Northern temperature at zero or below, here it is away up into the seventies. The contours, too, are infinite in their variety: of hills with wavy sky-lines, islets with curving shores, reefs with dentated ridges washed by foam-crested waves. All is colour and life and animation; but, if any- thing, there is too much and too dazzling a glare of white in the composition. Reefs and huts and houses, all are white; so, too, are the roads, the rocks-in fact, almost everything except the waters and the vegetation. Blue glasses are a necessity to protect the eyes from this incessant and insistent glare, and many a headache may be avoided by donning them upon arrival in the islands. One may have too much of a good thing, and this is one of the good things that is rather overdone in the Bermudas. Preparations for the trip to Bermuda should be the same as for Florida, the climatic conditions being similar, and also the social life at the hotels. Take summer clothing, with 24 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES a wrap or overcoat for the voyage and blustering weather, and, if a protracted stay is meditated, the conventional dress for social functions. At both Government House and Admiralty House, in the winter season, public receptions take place, and, if furnished with proper credentials, the visitor will find the high-class English society of the islands most enjoyable. The range of attractions is not great, consisting mainly of outdoor enjoyments; but society is not exacting, and the benefits to be derived from the comparative isolation, the opportunities for rest, and the soothing atmosphere, are inestimable. Yachting, riding, driving, cycling, walking, picnicking, and excursions to various points, as occasion may suggest, are the various forms of recreation in vogue; but those not inured to a semi-tropical climate should take their exercise in the cool hours of morning or evening, and not exert themselves unduly at first. Nearly the entire group of islands is open to the inspection of visitors, except the fortifications; but permission should be obtained (which is freely granted) for entering private grounds, planted fields, and the gardens at Mount Langdon and Clarence Hill. Sketches and photo- graphic views may be taken at pleasure, always excepting details of fortifications, which are prohibited by the govern- ment. Scenes well worth sketching and photographing may be found everywhere, which will suggest themselves at sight, and a camera should not be omitted from one's outfit for the voyage. Seascapes, rather than landscapes, will be found to claim attention; but the coral caves, the semi-tropical vegetation, the parks and gardens are enticing. Distances of Outer Reefs, Bermuda. Miles 334 5 .... 872 From St. George's Heights, east ....... From St. George's Heights, northeast ... From St. George's Heights, north From St. George's Heights, northwest From Gibbs Hill, north.. From Wreck Hill, north by east.... From Gibbs Hill, west.... From Wreck Hill, northwest........ From Wreck Hill, west ........ From Wreck Hill, south ...... 1212 .......................... THE BERMUDAS 25 Hamilton the Capital. The town of Hamilton contains about 2,300 inhabitants (the island 17,500), and is the metrop- olis of the group. It occupies a landlocked harbour on the southerly slope of elevated land, hence is well drained, and salubrious as to its situation, being also protected from cold winds and storms. It is a quaint little place, with streets laid out at right angles, and as full of hotels, boarding-houses and shops “as an egg is full of meat.” As all the ocean steamers make this town their point of arrival and departure, it will be taken as such by the tourist, for, in addition, it is most centrally located, and every portion of the islands may be reached from it by excursions between morning and even- ing of the same day. Here are situated such hotels as the Hamilton, Princess, American, Windsor, Imperial, Atlantic, Washington, and Victoria Lodge, which, together with numerous boarding- houses, amply accommodate tourists in the winter season. Here also are the public buildings, set within pretty, park- like grounds, the custom-house, the public library, colonial office, etc.; and as for stores, the business streets are lined with them, within which may be found large and varied stocks of foreign dry goods, hardware, wine, and spirits at prices far below the average in the United States. Stray where one will, he cannot go amiss for attractive scenes, bits of archi- tecture, quaint and picturesque, objects of interest to one who is making a first visit to the semi-tropics. Victoria Park will claim attention at once, for it is prominent from the Hamilton, and the famous rubber tree, in a private garden quite near, with a trunk twelve feet in circumference, and immense branching limbs. The first thing the tourist should purchase after being estab- lished at a hotel is the Driving and Cycling Road Map of Bermuda, on sale at the stores at fifty cents, and (if this Guide be found insufficient) the Bermuda Pocket Almanack, Guide and Directory (fifty cents), published by the Royal Gazette, which is brought strictly up-to-date the first of every year. By far the best historical and descriptive work on Ber- muda is Bermuda Past and Present, by Walter B. Hayward. This is sold at $1.25 net. Local guides may be obtained with- out effort, since they swarm, with and without vehicles as con- 26 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES veyances, in every public place. The roads are superb, hard as the coral rock of which they are made (and as white and glaring), never muddy, rarely even moist. Take, as your first venture, the inspiring walk from Hamilton through Cedar Avenue, past Victoria Park to Mount Langdon and Government House, only a mile. Aside from the beautiful grounds here, containing all sorts of tropical trees and shrubs, a magnificent view is afforded of the entire north shore, from St. George's forts to Ireland Island; and, in fact, of almost the whole island, curling around its several sounds and harbours, island dotted. Admiralty House is about two miles distant, on Spanish Point, the road leading to it being the most charming imag- inable. It may be called a continuation of Front Street; but, soon leaving the busy thoroughfare, it winds through scenery which has evoked the admiration of thousands, past Pitts Bay with its quarries and Olive Hill, bisecting historic estates where ancient worthies lived, past beautiful Fairy Land, amid fragrant lily fields, and around Mangrove Creek, where the trees that bestow the name overhang the placid waters. The extensive grounds about Admiralty House have their peculiar features, differentiating them from those at Mount Langdon, and the views thence, and from the extremity of Spanish Point, are particularly fine, giving nearer glimpses of Ireland Island, lovely Somerset, and the Great Sound. There is a cave in the cliffs, which was tunnelled by a former admiral, who gave a ball in it to celebrate its completion, and all along the north shore, as well as inside the point, are delightful little inlets from the sea and bay. Excursions about the Islands. A delightful day's trip may be made to St. George's, taking in the “sights” on the way. The distance over the noble highway is about twelve miles. Vehicles with careful drivers are always available, and the mail coach makes the journey twice a day. While three roads, all good ones, lead out from Hamilton, they all converge at or near Flatt's, or the Causeway, whence a single road runs to St. George's. Taking the North Road, via lovely Cedar Avenue, we pass the Woodlands, with its cocoanut palms, quaint Pembroke Church, and Mount Lang- don, turning sharply to the right at the coast nearly opposite THE BERMUDAS 27 a rock overhanging the water, which is known as the Duck- ing Stool. Here, tradition states, certain sharp-tongued beldams of yore were wont to be ducked in the sea. We pass the Wells, of little consequence, and Gibbons Bay, where, at low water, shells and seaweeds may be collected, and at Flatt's Village find one of the old, but now disused, seaports of the islands, where the chief attraction is a great mahogany tree, the largest in Bermuda, with a trunk seven feet in circumference. Opposite Flatt's is Gallows Island, on the summit of which stands Quashi's Pole, marking the spot where a slave was gibbeted in 1754 for murdering his master. The inlet at Flatt's enters Harrington Sound, a centre of picturesqueness, the placid waters of which afford delight to many excursionists, for its shores are rugged, and in its centre is interesting Trunk Island, while the cliff-lined North Shore is the abode of tropic birds. For submarine explorations there is no better spot than Harrington Sound. On the south shore of this sound is the famous Devil's Hole, or Neptune's Grotto, said to possess subterranean connection with the ocean, the surfs of which beat upon the coast near by. It usually contains a thousand finny denizens of almost every kind and every hue, such as lovely angel-fish and voracious groupers. An admittance fee to the Hole is charged-one shilling—as it belongs to an enterprising indi- vidual, who keeps it well stocked with fish. Devil's Hole is on the southern route around the sound, further following which for about two miles, we arrive at Paynter's Vale, one of Bermuda's exquisite beauty-spots, where are the ruins of an ancient mansion and a family burial-ground. Near these is a deep hollow called Plantation Hole, where the rare fiddle-wood, myrtle, and coffee trees may be found growing wild, and not far distant is Chalk Cave, once the dwelling-place of an old black woman. If the road be taken to its termination at Castle Point, on the way will be passed the Government Quarries, where the best limestone on the island is obtained. A fine view is spread before one from Paynter's Hill, which is rather steep, but well worth climb- ing, rising, as it does, between Harrington Sound and Castle Harbour, each of which would demand at least a day for exploration. 28 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES About midway between Paynter's Vale and the North Road (returning northwardly) we find classic Walsingham, a miniature wilderness of beauty, where at one time resided the Bard of Erin, Thomas Moore, in 1804. Here he lived a while; here he wrote those lines that have well-nigh im- mortalised the locality, such as: Could you but view the scenery fair, That now beneath my window lies, You'd think that Nature lavished there Her purest wave, her softest skies, To make a heaven for love to sigh in, For bards to live and saints to die in. Walsingham was more favoured by the presence of the poet than the town in which he should have served as registrar of the Admiralty Court; and little wonder, for the views here are entrancing. When the weather was hot he might have sought the seclusion of the wonderful caves, here seen, with their glassy lake and still more wonderful stalagmites and stalactites, now illuminated to order by artificial lights. Charge for entering the caves, one shilling. Near by, right at the caves' mouth, stands “Tom Moore's calabash tree," also celebrated by the prolific poet in enticing verse. It casts small shade at present; but its remains are here, as if to verify the verse. These islands have been greatly favoured by the Muses, so far as having been the temporary home, or the theme, of exotic poets; though it is not known that any native ever acquired great fame. Shakespeare, misled by a pamphlet, founded his play of The Tempest upon their supposedly evil character; Waller wrote lines on them during his exile; also Montgomery, as quoted, and many modern poets have celebrated the beauties of Bermuda; perhaps none more appreciatively than Lucy Larcom, in her Bermoothes: Prospero's realm and Miranda's isles, Floating to music of Ariel Upon fantasy's billow, that glows and smiles, Flushing response to the lovely spell; Tremulous colour and outline seem Lucent as glassed in a life-like dream. THE BERMUDAS 29 Not far from Walsingham is the Blue Hole, a piscatorial rival of the Devil's Hole, where also fish of varied hues may be seen swimming about in captivity; and the famed Joyce's Dock Caves, with wonderful stalactites, which are on occasion artificially illuminated. Near the Blue Hole com- mences the Causeway, finished in 1871, which crosses a neck of Castle Harbour and connects with St. George's proper, via Long Bird Island, and the swing bridge at Stock's Point, 123 feet in length. Had we continued on the North Road from Flatt's Village we should have enjoyed fine ocean scenery all the way, but nothing to compare with the placid waters of the sounds and their environment of cragged shores. We could have gained St. George's Island by the old-time ferry, which in storms is dangerous to essay, but the swing-bridge route is preferable, though in either case we should obtain one of the most exquisite views in the islands, at the head of the inlet known as Mullet Bay, with a diminu- tive islet in its centre, shore-connected by a wooden bridge. Town of St. George's. St. George's, on an island of the same name, at the extreme northeast tip of the chain, with its deep and well-fortified harbour, was chosen as the site of Bermudas' first settlement, and for many years was chief town and capital. It is two hours nearer New York and Halifax than Hamilton, its rival, for the ship-channel begins off shore, through which steamers must pursue their devious way to the Great Sound and the capital. It is a quaint and extremely picturesque old town, with narrow streets, walled-in gardens, and houses of massive construction dating from: Bermudas' past. We have seen similar towns in the Orient, only with more of palms and pawpaws, bananas and cacti overhanging the walls. That it was built long ago its narrow streets attest, for most of them are mere bridle trails, which wind up and down hill in a manner peculiarly their own. The oldest church is here, too, con- taining several mural tablets of ancient days, and cherishing a communion service of massive silver, presented by King William III. in 1684, and a silver christening basin given by Governor William Browne, who came here from Massa- chusetts when expelled from that colony in Revolutionary days. Near by the church is a very pretty Public Garden, 30 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES with clusters of date-palms more than a century old. In the garden wall at the left of the gate is a marble tablet in com- memoration of Sir George Somers, the patron saint of the town, whose heart was buried here, though his body was taken to England. The inscription reads: "Near this spot was interred, in the year 1616, the heart of the heroic Admiiral Sir George Somers, Kt., who nobly sacri- ficed his life to carry succour to the infant and suffering plantation now the State of Virginia. To preserve his fame for future ages, near the scene of his memorable shipwreck, 1609, the Governor and Commander-in-Chief of this Colony for the time being caused this tablet to be erected in 1876." St. George's is noted for its forts, as Albert, Victoria, Cath- erine and Fort George, all offering fine views and command- ing the approaches to a harbour in which it is claimed all the ships of the British navy might ride securely. Like Hamilton, it offers fine facilities for boating, and if possible while here one should visit the islands in its harbour, as St. David's, with its lighthouse; also the picturesque isles and shores of Castle Harbour. Above the town, on the eminence of Rose Hill, 100 feet high, stands Bermudas' newest hotel, the palatial St. George, set in spacious grounds, and commanding magnificent views. A recent writer says of the town: “Viewed from the piazza of the St. George, its Puritan- like church and narrow streets, laid out before horses and carriages came into use, appeal strongly to the imagination of the visitor. Many charming legends cling to the old town, and will no doubt be related by the oldest inhabitant to the newest visitor. "From out of its harbour in 1610 sailed the expedition which carried relief to the struggling colony at Jamestown, thereby securing a permanency to the footing on the main- land of the now dominant race. During the momentous oc- currences of the American Revolution, the islanders fought side by side with their kinsmen at Yorktown. From the hotel will be pointed out the site of Fort William, from whence gunpowder was stolen which rendered timely ser- vice to Washington at Bunker Hill. Here, too, the War of 1812 has left its impress. Under the shade of the clock tower, in plain view from the dining-room windows, in a quiet corner of the old churchyard, sleeps one of America's heroes, Richard Sutherland Dale, a lineal descendant of Sir Thomas Dale, Governor of Virginia, and a midshipman on THE BERMUDAS 31 board the American frigate President. Wounded in an en- gagement with the British frigate Endymion, he was brought to Bermuda with the President, after her capture, and suc- cumbed to his injuries. “The St. George is linked to the days of the blockade by the building now used as the annex. It was here the agent for the Confederate government had his residence. From his flagstaff the flag of the Southern Confederacy floated to the breeze, and in and out its corridors went the participants in many an exciting chase. "The view from the St. George veranda beggars descrip- tion; poets and painters have alike exhausted upon it their resources. Such shade colourings of sea and sky, and com- binations of land and sea scape, are found only in Bermuda." The South Shore Road. Of the three roads which, as said, converge at Harrington Sound, the Great South Road, which really extends all along the southern shore, from Castle Point to Ireland Island, offers what has been truly called an unrivalled seaside drive. Beginning at Tuckerstown (which is no town at all, but a cute little water-nook, with fine sand beach and a natural arch) and running westerly, one sees the unique, long and narrow lake among the sand- hills, called Peniston Pond, filled with brackish water. The south shore gets the ocean breezes and the ocean surf, so it is cooler than the north side, the sand-beaches are finer and more numerous, and the cliff forms superb. One of the attractions here is the so-called Spanish Rock, on the flat- tened face of which are the initials of the Portuguese, Ferdi- nand Camelo, who first visited the island after Bermudez, in 1543. Beyond again are Devonshire Fort and the inlet of Hungry Bay, with its muddy mangrove swamps. If the Middle Road had been taken from Hamilton we should have had some rather pretty scenery, and might have passed the fine military camp at Prospect, finding the chief object of interest, however, in antiquated Devonshire Church, with its ancient cemetery, guarded by a still older cedar, thought to be the patriarch of the island. The cedar, doubt- less, is an indigenous tree, but the cocoa and the cabbage- palms (miscalled “royal") were all brought from the West Indies. Five beautiful cabbage-palms—the Oreodoxa oleracea -tower above surrounding vegetation not far from Ham- ilton, near the end of the harbour. These are the island's 32 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES monarchs in the arboreal line, being about eighty feet high; but in the West Indies, where they are native, they attain to nearly twice that height. Here, where a thirty-foot tree is called a giant, they are objects of wonder and admiration. At any rate, they are probably the only trees of their species to be found so far north. Road to Somerset. Tamarinds, cocoas and other tropical trees may be seen on this road, leading from Hamilton to Somerset, on the western side of the bay. The scenery is not striking, but in Paget parish, half a mile from the old church (built in '1769), are found the drifting sand-hills, which, in the course of time, have covered cedar groves and even houses, the chimney of one house protruding as its monument. The sand-beach at the shore is smooth and hard, while at low water one may reach those curiously hollowed rocks known as the “boilers." Not far from here are the Royal Engineer quarries, containing some of the finest shell-stone in the islands. It has been, of course, already noted that the houses of Bermuda are constructed of this stone, cut from the quarries with handsaws and chisels. Nearly every owner of a lot has his own quarry, and in the process of excavating his cellar he may at the same time get out all needed material for walls and roof-a constructive process economical in the extreme. Warwick Church and pond are attractive features in the parish of the same name, next west of Paget, and beyond, in the parish of Southampton, stands the one object which no visitor to the Bermudas should miss seeing and surmount- ing—the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse. The undulating surface of the islands generally is rarely more than from 25 to 50 feet above sea-level, but here it rises to the height of 260 feet, and by ascending to the gallery of the lighthouse one may view the entire group from an altitude of 365 feet. The structure itself is of iron, for the first 22 feet filled with solid concrete, and supporting a light of nearly 100,000 candle- power, visible from a ship's mast forty miles at sea, and from the deck of a steamer twenty-five or thirty miles. It was installed in 1845, and cost nearly $30,000. From the gallery, to which all visitors are admitted, a magnificent bird's-eye view is obtained of the entire chain of islands, Sna 0 3 . Devil's Hole, Bermudas Ireland Island, Bermudas THE BERMUDAS 33 which, it is no exaggeration to say, for contour and colour is probably unsurpassed, with its sheets of azure (sea and sky) and emerald islets with their circlets of golden sand. Quaint Port Royal, with its old church on the verge of wave-washed cliffs, containing parish records nearly three hundred years old, is about half a mile south of the light- house, beyond which again the highway curves around the Elbow into Somerset, a parish which has views and beauty- spots all its own. We now leave the "Main" and cross by a bridge into Somer- set Island, from which reverse views are opened of Great Sound, Hamilton Harbour and Spanish Point. Off to the left is historic Wreck Hill, where, in those rude days when the islanders depended for a living mainly upon what the tempests brought them in the shape of wrecks, they congre- gated after every storm. Almost at its foot lies the gem- like inlet, Eli's Harbour, the emerald-tinted waters of which are enclosed within encircling shores fringed with the fragrant native cedar. As every parish in the group has its own little church, so also Somerset, though it cannot compare for interest with that of Paget, Devonshire or St. George's. The island is terminated by Mangrove Bay, on the outer or seaward neck, of which is an open beach, where after heavy gales the collector may be rewarded by finding rare shells, sponges, and seaweeds. Ireland Island; the Floating Dock. At the barb of the "fish-hook” lies Ireland Island, connected with Somerset by means of bridges, with Boaz and Walford islands intervening It can best be reached by water from Hamilton, in about half an hour, by means of the “Islands Steamboat Service," the boats of which carry the mails, calling at Boaz and Somerset. Fare, one shilling. The views afforded here of Spanish Point and the north shore are similar to those from the deck of the steamer coming into harbour. The chief object of inter- est, and one worth going to view, is the enormous floating dock, which was built in England, and after a voyage of fifty-five days placed in position here in 1902. This is the second Aoating dock to occupy the immense artificial basin at Ireland Island, the first having arrived in 1869. This was then called the largest floating dock in the world, but the 34 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES increase in size of Britain's great battleships necessitated the instalment of another, and the new giant, then also the largest of its kind, was towed across the ocean and given a berth at Ireland Island. It is more than 160 feet longer than the old Bermuda, its length over all being 545 feet, breadth 126 feet, and between walls 100 feet. The height of its vertical walls is 53 feet, their length 435 feet, and thickness 13 feet. Its extreme lifting power is 17,500 tons, and the total weight of its hull is 6,500 tons. This is the leviathan which England has sent out to supplement her naval vessels in the Bermudas. There are at present four powerful cruisers comprising his Majesty's “North America and West Indies, and Particular Service Squadron,” with rendezvous at the Bermudas. These are the Euryalus (flagship), the Hogue, and the Surlej, 12,000 tons and 21,000 horse-power each; and the Terror, 6,200 tons, 4,000 horse-power. The dockyard is open to visitors daily, Sundays excepted, between the hours of 10 A.M. and 12 M., and a policeman is detailed to show them about after signing the register. The fortifications, as already mentioned, are not open to inspection by strangers, but they may be viewed exteriorly, of course; though no photographs of them are allowed to be taken. Great Britain jealously guards her “tight little, right little” domain in the Atlantic, within easy striking distance of the United States, and, with its impregnable position, diffi- cult to approach and assail, it constitutes, with Malta and Gibraltar, a trio of defences by which she has been enabled to "put a girdle round the world." In line with the new policy adopted, the military strength of the islands has been reduced, though garrisons* are still maintained here, contrib- uting not a little to the support and enlivenment of the islands, and several batteries of artillery, in addition to the royal engineers. The officers, of course, are the life of society here; but the residents do not depend upon them entirely for entertain- ment, for there is an efficient Yacht Club, the Royal Ber- muda; a Dinghy Sailing Club, a Bermuda Hunt Club, all which are extremely popular. *The garrison consists of a single regiment of infantry and detach. ments of royal artillery and royal engineers. THE BERMUDAS 35 Excursions by Water. There are steam ferries, perma- nently established, between St. George's and St. David's Island, Hamilton and Salt Kettle, across the harbour; and Hamilton, Ireland Island, and Somerset. Special terms may be made for the islands' steamboats when off duty, and yachts ($5 per day, with boatmen) as well as small boats of every sort are always available. Several delightful excursions are open to the visitor at St. George's, as to St. David's, beautiful Mullet Bay, the Causeway, and Castle Harbour, with its numerous points of interest; Walsingham, Joyce's Dock Caves, Tuckerstown Bay, Castle, Cooper's, and other islands between it and the sea. Harrington Sound, completely landlocked, offers a safe and beautiful expanse of water with unique surroundings, already mentioned. Boats may be obtained at Flatt's Bridge for this excursion. Hamilton Harbour, however, with its adjacent waters, offers the most attractive lure to the aquatic explorer, with curving reach of shores, all interesting, and dotted with islands so numerous that one does not wonder at the claim set forth by Bermudians of “one for every day in the year,” or 365 in all. There is indeed an embarrassment of riches in this respect, and now that the government has consented to lease some of them, or such as it does not need for future naval purposes, an opportunity is offered for securing ideal locations for midwinter homes in Bermuda. Merely to enu- merate these attractive islets would take much space; but the visitor will desire, at least, to inspect Darrell's, Morgan's, and Tucker's Islands, where the Boer prisoners were confined in 1901, and in the last named of which is a charming cavern. When the weather is fine an excursion to the outer reefs may be undertaken ; but only at such a time, and with expert boatmen, as they lie several miles off shore, where the least bit of wind “kicks up a bobbery,” and the channels thither are devious and intricate. But, when once arrived within the area of the “sea gardens," with their floors of snowy sand and their submarine jungles of aquatic vegetation, through which dart brilliantly coloured fish of every hue, all sense of danger departs, banished by the beauty of the scene. By means of a water-glass (a wooden box with a glass plate in its bottom) all things below, animate as well as inanimate, 36 : A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES may be clearly seen, as in an artificial aquarium. It is from these reefs that the New York Aquarium obtains its rarest specimens (more than 160 being native here). They are caught by the local fishermen (who use traps or pots of a kind made two hundred years ago) and taken to Hamilton, where they are placed in tanks and shipped at intervals to New York by special arrangement with the Quebec line of steamers. Odd Memoranda. Bicycles pay a duty of 10 shillings each on landing. Postage to and from Berinuda is 27/2d. (five cents) per ounce. A parcel-post arrangement exists between the islands and foreign parts, excepting the United States, by which packages up to eleven pounds may be sent by mail at i shilling under three pounds, 2 between three and seven pounds, 3. be- tween seven and eleven pounds. No passport is needed. When riding or driving, one should remember that the Eng- lish rule-of-the-road makes it imperative to turn to the left and not to the right when horse or vehicle is met. Do not omit to visit the old churches, beginning with Holy Trinity, in Hamilton parish, which was established in 1623, and was covered with a roof of thatch until 1713. Nor should a trip to Prospect, a short walk, be left out of the itinerary. It is likely, in fact, to be one of the first, for, aside from the enchanting view from Prospect Hill, the garrison officers have their quarters here. Temple Rocks and Admiral's Cave should by all means be visited, for they are among Bermuda's wonders. The fragrant lily fields, of course, will be their own ex- ponents, for they bloom everywhere, acres and acres of them, and as an economic product have completely routed the erst- while ubiquitous onion and potato. Bermuda's soil is gen- erally thin and difficult to cultivate, thus concentrated farm- ing is a necessity. The range of plants, however, comprises everything that grows within the semi-tropics, and something sweet is growing all the time. Hence the Bermuda planter's advantage over his continental competitors. Hotels and Cost of Living. The cost of living in the Bermudas will compare favourably with the same item in the Tnited States and Canada, for, sea-surrounded as they are, all THE BERMUDAS 37 ports of the Atlantic are in a sense tributary to them, many cargoes of ships in stress find enforced sale here, and English products are remarkably cheap. The first hotel worthy the name was built by the Hamilton Corporation in 1852, and as the Hamilton Hotel, still maintains the high standard set at the beginning. The next in size, the Princess, has accommoda- tions for 300 guests, and is nearer the harbour than the Hamilton, which is built upon a hill. At its foot is the American House, next in point of age to the Princess, which was opened in 1885. The largest hotel at St. George's is the new one, the St. George; but there are also several others. A list of the islands' houses is given below: Hotels and Boarding Houses. ...... Hotels Per Week Hamilton Hotel.... - $25.00 and up Princess Hotel.... 25.00 and up American House.. 17.50 and up Nokomis Inn.. 5.00 to $10.00 Victoria Lodge..... ....... 13.00 to 15.00 Cedarhurst .:::... ........ 12.00 to 18.00 Washington House.. e.......................... 10.00 to 10.00 to 14.00 Sunny Brae...... ............ 12.00 to 15.00 Brayton Lodge... 12.00 to 14.00 Per Day The Kenwood........ ....... $2.50 and up New Windsor.......... Rooms $1.00 and up, European plan Point Pleasant. .............................. $2.50 to 3.00 PAGET Overlooking Hamilton Harbour, five minutes from Hamilton by ferry. Short drive by land. Per Week Newstead . .......$1200 to $15.00 Belmont ....... .. 18.00 and up Per Day Spithead......... ..........$1.00 and up, European plan FRASCATI Per Week Hotel Frascati, Alonzo Peniston............ $21.00 and up Twenty minutes' drive from Steamer Wharf. SMITH'S PARISH Per Week Tenhurst, F. W. E. Peniston....... ........ $12.00 and up A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ST. GEORGE Twelve miles from Hamilton. Per Week Hotel St. George...... .......... $12.00 and up Globe Hotel................................. 15.00 and up SOMERSET Nine miles from Hamilton. Per Week Summerside ....... ..............$12.00 to $14.00 SOUTHAMPTON Per Week Seaward Lodge, Mrs. S. E. Alford..........$10.00 to $14.00 Means of Communication. Until within a few years the Bermudas were entirely isolated in every sense, but at present they are connected with the American Continent by means of the Halifax and Bermuda Cable, laid in 1890, and with Turks Island and Jamaica by the Direct West Indian Cable, which was completed in 1898. There are two direct lines between New York and the Bermudas: the Quebec Steamship Company and the Ber- muda Atlantic Steamship Company, which maintains a service in connection with the Royal Mail Steamship Company. Both these lines maintain swift and comfortable boats. For seven years they have maintained a keen rivalry for pas- senger traffic, with the result that their passenger fares have been greatly reduced. In the service of the Bermuda Atlantic Steamship Company is the steamer Oceana, which sails every Thursday at 2 P.M., while the Royal Mail maintains three large boats, the Arcadian, Oruba and the Orotaba. The boats of this line begin their trips on April 6 and continue them weekly until May 25, and thereafter every ten days during June and July. The Quebec Steamship Company uses in its trip to Bermuda the new large steamer Berinudian, which begins its trips on April 3 from New York and con- tinues them weekly until May 25, and thereafter every ten days until August 1. Rates on the boats of both these companies range from $20 to $125 for the round trip. Between Halifax avd the Bermudas the Pickford and Black line; sailings every fourteen days; time between ports, four days: (1) Halifax to Bermudas, Turks Island and Jamaica; (2) Halifax to Bermudas, Trinidad and Demerara. This line THE BERMUDAS 39 offers communication with the West Indies (as above), in addition taking St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Dominica, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, and Grenada. Fares: Halifax to Ber- mudas, first class, one way, $30; return, $50. Bermudas to Turks, $20; to Jamaica, $20; to Santiago de Cuba, $20 The Quebec Line, the Royal Mail, and the Hamburg- American offer winter excursions to and from the Bermudas, Nassau, etc. Between the Bermudas and England there are two lines of steamers, the “Direct" and the "Imperial," with irregular, but generally monthly, sailings. History. Discovered by Juan Bermudez, a Spaniard, in a ship called the Garza, or Heron, on a voyage from 1515 Spain to Cuba with a cargo of hogs. The eminent historian Oviedo was on board, and to him we are indebted for a record of the discovery. But the Spaniards did not remain long, owing to a gale arising, and the first to take possession of the “Bermoothes" was Fer- 1543 dinand Camelo, a Portuguese, whose initials, with a cross, may be seen carved on the face of “Spanish Rock.” The next to land, so far as we know, was Captain Henry May, whose ship was wrecked there when 1593 on the way home from a piratical expedition to the East and West Indies. The shipwrecked crew lived here five months, subsisting upon the wild hogs, which were then numerous, native fruits, and vegetables. They finally built a vessel, using Bermuda cedar, forests of which covered the islands, and set sail for Newfoundland, where they safely arrived in May, 1594, and thence made their way to England. The next visit to the islands had its origin in an expedition sent out from England to the Jamestown settlement, in Vir- ginia. One of the ships, the Sea Venture, containing 1609 150 mariners and passengers, including Sir Thomas Gates, Sir George Somers, and Captain Christopher Newport, sprang a leak not far from the Bermudas, and was run ashore in order to save her. They arrived the last week in July, 1609, and having saved all their provisions, subsisted upon these and the wild animals with which the islands 40 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES abounded until the next May, when, having constructed two vessels from cedar, they set sail for Jamestown, which was safely reached on the 23d of that month. As the settlement was in a destitute condition, Sir George Somers volunteered to return to the Bermudas for supplies, and set out in his cedar vessel. The voyage was protracted by storms, and the aged leader succumbed soon after reaching the islands. His companions soon after embarked for England, taking with them Sir George's body, but leaving his heart in the soil which he was so desirous of implanting with colonists. Their accounts created a furor for emigration in England, 1612 and the first shipload of colonists was sent out in April, 1612. They found on arrival there three men who had been left two years before, and who had discovered a large lump of precious ambergris, which the new governor of the colony immediately appropriated, threatening to hang the only member of the unlucky trio who protested against this spoliation. A settlement was commenced at the present port of St. George's (named in honour of Sir George Somers, as the islands had also been called after him, the “Somers Islands”), and before the end of 1615 at least six vessels had arrived, bringing more than 300 colonists. About this time an official survey was made of the islands by one Richard Norwood, and the lands divided into “tribes” or parishes. “These shares form the foundation of the land tenure of the islands even to this day, the divisional lines in many cases yet remaining intact.” Under Governor Daniel Tucker, who had been sent out by the chartered company, the laws were rigorously enforced, and a local currency was provided by stamping pieces of brass with the figure of a wild hog on the obverse and on the reverse that of a ship. This "hog money,” as it is called, is extremely rare, but is occasionally found by cultivators of the soil. Governor Tucker introduced the first tropical fruits and vegetables, such as figs, pineapples, sugar-cane, bananas, and pawpaws, and these precious products, which he obtained from the West Indies, have thrived so well that they might be looked upon as indigenous. Tobacco came later, but was abandoned as a cultivation early in the eighteenth century. The potato was probably introduced about this time, as it 42 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES mudas possessed, toward the end of the eighteenth century, a composite population. Its basis was English, but 1775 during the years of its existence it had drawn to itself diverse elements, especially seafarers from all quarters of the Western Hemisphere. When, therefore, the quarrel broke out between Great Britain and her colonies in America, it is not strange that the 'Mudians should feel inclined to side with the colonists. Then, again, they were forbidden to trade with the Americans, among whom they had many friends as well as relatives. Blood may be “thicker than water," but in this case there was vastly more water between the Bermudas and Great Britain than between them and the colonies. This is in allusion to the well-known fact that General Washing- ton obtained from the Bermudas one hundred barrels of gunpowder at the most critical period of the Revolution. With this powder he compelled the British to evacuate Boston in March, 1776, and thus may be said to have “hoisted them with their own petard,” for it certainly came from the British Bermudas. Though the American patriots had intended to secure the Bermudas for their own, and succour a people who were evi- dently not averse to casting their fortunes with the 1782 colonies, yet the distance separating the islands from the main was too great, as well as British men-of- war too formidable, to give promise of success. The'Mudians continued loyal to the mother-land, and probably have had no cause to regret it, for she has certainly done more for them than the nearer American States could, or would, have done, by making the islands a naval base and military station, thus dispensing millions of pounds sterling among the native inhabitants. One William Browne, a Tory from Salem, Mas- sachusetts, was governor from 1782 to 1788, and when he left for England the islanders were flourishing. They continued to exist, in a semi-somnolent condition, during the succeeding century. Isolated in their vast immensity of ocean, they were rarely disturbed by doings in the outside world; but when the American States were rent by civil war-1861-64—the 'Mudians found their opportunity. It was in gathering the golden harvest, brought to their harbours as to a granary, THE BERMUDAS 43 by the blockade-runners. The ports of St. George's and Hamilton woke from their century-long quiescence, and there was once more wealth for everybody, as in the golden days of buccaneer and wrecker. The advent of the winter tourist was, we may say, co- incident with the opening of a profitable market in the States for Bermudian products. The great Hamilton Hotel was erected in 1852, and with that as a landmark we may trace the extension of tourist travel thitherward. And it may be re- marked, in passing, that though it has vastly and continuously increased from year to year and decade to decade, the arms of the hospitable 'Mudians have always been open to receive the health and scenery seekers from the frozen North. They have ever since revelled in unwonted luxuries, brought to their shores by sybaritic exotics from the northern regions, which fact has reconciled them to the invasion. The Bermudas had received many an immigrant with a welcome, but it is doubtful if they altogether approved of the sending thither of the exiled Boers in 1901. The first shipments arrived the last of June that year and were dis- posed on various islands in Great Sound, as Darrell's, Morgan's, and Tucker's, where, to the number of 4,000, toward the last, they encamped until the close of the war. They had literally been scattered to the ends of the earth- in Ceylon, St. Helena, and the Bermudas—but they probably received no better treatment anywhere than in the last-named islands. Next to the laying of the submarine cable, in 1890, prob- ably no event so moved the Bermudians as the arrival of the great floating dock, the second of its kind, and both 1902 the largest in the world, in early summer of 1902. It proved to them that the home government had no intention of abandoning the islands as a naval base, what- ever else might happen, and there was commensurate rejoicing. An event scarcely less important was the arrival of the big twin-screw steamer of the Quebec Line, the 5,500-ton Bermudian, which now performs the ferriage from New York in two days' time. During more than thirty years the owners of this line have maintained connection between New 44 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES York and the Bermudas, and (as the writer can attest from an experience measuring over nearly that entire period) they have constantly increased and improved their ships and service. There is no doubt as to the future of the Bermudas, es- pecially since the more liberal policy of the British Govern- ment has now removed disabilities from the acquiring of realty by foreigners. They will doubtless enjoy a success beyond precedent; for, as their destiny is fixed as an outpost of England's naval power in the Atlantic, also by birthright they enjoy a climate and attractions which only need be known to be sought out by tourists in augmented numbers. PA St. George's, Bermuda 3 Silk-cotton Tree, Nassau THE BAHAMAS Nearest Tropical Neighbours. Drop a plumb line due south from New York and about a thousand miles distant it bisects the Bahamas archipelago, the islands composing which may be called our nearest tropical neighbours, since they are separated from Florida only by a narrow strait. Beginning with the Great Bahama, off Jupiter, on the Florida coast, they extend southeasterly 700 miles and more, ending in the isle of Grand Turk, north of Santo Domingo. Reefs and shoals extend this chain well toward the latter island, thus forming a barrier between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, well within which lies the great island of Cuba. Of the 3,000 islands, islets and cays composing the Bahamas, com- paratively few are populated, or even large enough to live on; but some of these are extremely attractive as places of residence, possessing an equable climate of 70° to 80° and numerous attractions as resorts for the winter season. Coral islands, all of them, they possess the same formation through- out the entire chain, with a thin but fertile soil covering shell- rock hardened into limestone, and supporting a semi-tropical vegetation. Though the first discovered of the West Indies, they were among the last, with a few exceptions, to become permanently settled, and even to-day little is known of the more remote islands, since very few of them are reached by steamers, connection between the northern and southern being kept up by sailing vessels only. As they are almost uniformly level, the highest elevation not exceeding 300 feet, they do not dis- play that varied vegetation to be seen in the Greater and Lesser Antilles, where the mountain-sides are clothed with extensive tropical forests. Still, the Bahaman flora embraces more than one hundred native flowers and a variety of woods useful in the arts and materia medica, besides many delicious fruits known to dwellers in the tropic zone. The total area of the Bahamas exceeds 5,700 miles, but the inhabited area, as already mentioned, is restricted. 46 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The chief islands are New Providence, Cat, Abaco, Grand Bahama, Long, Eleuthera, Exuma, Mayaguana, Harbour, Great Inagua, Andros, Watlings, Rum Cay, Long Cay, Ragged, Grand Turk, and the Biminis. The total population (1905) was 58,175, of which number relatively few are white. The present inhabitants of the Bahamas, like their prede- cessors, the first settlers, derive their living mainly from the sea; but not from wrecking and privateering, as in the olden times. The chief exports are sponges and turtles, to the amount (1905) of about $1,000,000. Next in importance ranks the newly introduced fibre industry (sisal hemp), $200,000; followed by tropical fruits (the Bahamas pine- apples being celebrated), bananas and cocoanuts. Nearly all other cultivations having failed, the hopes of the Bahamas are centred upon the hemp fibre, the land devoted to the plant from which it is derived amounting to more than 20,000 acres in 1905. But the principal industry of the Bahamas has become, of late, the exploitation of the winter visitor, in whose advent the islanders behold their bow of promise. The total revenues of the islands in 1905 amounted to about $390,000, the expenditures to $360,000. This would have left a hopeful margin of profit; but the public debt totals more than half a million dollars, for the colonial system of gov- ernment is expensive. The governor receives $10,000 ; the colonial secretary, $3,000; the chief justice, $5,000; the re- ceiver-general, surveyor-general, provost-marshal, and two circuit magistrates, $2,500 each; the inspector of imperial lighthouses, $4,000; the attorney-general, $2,000, etc. The exports of 1905 amounted to $1,115,000; the imports to $1,500,000. The government of the Bahamas is vested in an executive head, the Governor, sent from England, assisted by an Executive Council of nine members, a Legislative Council of nine members, and a Representative Assembly of twenty- nine members. The distance from England to Nassau, the capital, is 4,000 miles. There are no direct lines of steamers, and time in transit from the “mother country” is estimated at fourteen days. Nassau, the Capital. Nassau, the capital and only city of the Bahamas, is, to all intents and purposes, the island THE BAHAMAS 47 of New Providence, on which it is situated. It is 145 miles distant from Miami, in Florida (with which it is connected by a direct steam line in winter), and 960 miles from New York. Although the capital of a British colony, Nassau has been dependent for its very existence upon its contiguity to and connections with the Atlantic ports of the American mainland, and upon American enterprise and capital for its development. Nassau is not only the island of New Provi- dence, but to most of its visitors it is also the Bahamas, for few penetrate farther than this delightful island-city sand- wiched in between the cays and reefs that defend it from the ocean. The resident population of Nassau is about one- fourth the total of the chain, and of this, again, about one- fifth are white; but in winter it is augmented by thousands of tourists, who fill its great hotels and boarding-houses to overflowing. Miami to Nassau. Until the completion of the great East Coast Railway of Florida to Key West, by which the city of Havana was brought within 100 miles of land travel in the United States, Nassau was the nearest of the tropical resorts; and even now it is but a few hours' voyaging, an over-night run, from Miami. Leaving the latter port at three in the afternoon, next morning at daybreak the island of New Providence is in sight, and a landing is made in time for breakfast. The harbour of Nassau is about a mile long by half a mile wide, with a narrow entrance between the reefs, and defended from the ocean by Hog Island, which is at the left as the steamer bears up for the city. This harbour is too shallow to permit of large steamers entering, but the small boat from Miami has no difficulty in approach- ing the wharf, where the customs formalities are soon over, and the visitor is at liberty to roam about the place wherever he wishes to go. The city is well set upon its coral strand, with white walls gleaming among towering cocoanuts and silk-cottons, and several grand structures, like the Governor's House, the Victoria and the Colonial hotels, conspicuous above all the others. The sky is blue, the water likewise; and that the sun is shining goes without the saying, on a winter's day in Nassau. Perpetual sunshine and continuous good weather 48 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES greet the winter visitor to the Bahamas, and as the tendency is always to exercise out of doors, one cannot fail to benefit by an excursion thither. Good roads traverse the island in every direction, almost surrounding it, so that one may ride or walk miles at a stretch, following the longer axis of New Providence, which is about 20 miles in length by 7 in extreme breadth. There is little variety to the scenery outside the town or city, but an interesting wilderness lies beyond the ken of those who remain at the hotels a waste of pitch-pine forest intergrown with scrub palmetto and dotted with shallow lakes. The Blue Hills lie back of the city (which faces the harbour, north) and attain a height of 120 feet. Beyond this range, which is 6 or 7 miles in length, is Lake Killarney, a body of brackish water, not far distant from Lake Cunningham, similar but smaller, on both of which good duck shooting is found in the season. Both these lakes seem to have an underground connection with the ocean, as they rise and fall with the tide. In a spur of the range that divides the lakes some caverns may be seen, which were once the homes of aborigines, relics of whom are now and then found in the island. These caves also served, it is said, as retreats for the pirates and buccaneers, with which the chain was at one time infested. These natural formations, peculiar to a coral-rock or limestone country, are situated some seven miles from town and may be reached by carriage. It cannot be said of the scenery of New Providence that it is either picturesque or inviting, for there is little tropical vegetation to conceal the rocky surface of the miscalled "soil”; but, like the Bermudas, the island depends for its reputation upon its balmy climate and the sea surrounding its shores. Its roads, like those of the Bermudas, cannot be other than excellent, because they are cut from the coral rock, and are always clean, smooth and hard. So far as they extend, they afford fine speedways for the cycler, but are hardly long enough for the autoist. One of the interesting drives from Nassau is that to the negro village of Grants- town, or to Carmichael, the latter six miles distant and near the south shore. Here we see the black man living as his African ancestor lived before he was compelled to immigrate THE BAHAMAS 49 to these islands. Primitive African huts are half concealed amid tropical foliage of cocoa-palms, etc.; but they seem to be occupied rarely, as all the people cook, eat, and prob- ably sleep, out of doors. The first-named village is over the hill from the city, and is not too far for a morning or an evening walk. The "Lake of Fire.” Tradition states that the discoverer of this island called it “Providence,” in commemoration of a miraculous deliverance from death by drowning; and then "New” Providence, because there was another of the same name in New England. Whoever he was, he manifested great powers of discrimination in settling amid so many natural attractions, without which Nassau would be but an ordinary fishing and sponging village. Whether these were discovered before the island became known as a resort has not been decided; and whether, after all, the famous Lake of Fire is a natural or an artificially stimulated phenomenon is not "down in the books." It is a phenomenon—that is admitted by all, and it is easily reached by a short walk or ride from town. Waterloo is the local name of it, but neither Bonaparte nor Wellington was ever here to view it; nor, indeed, was either great man within the confines of America, much less of the Bahamas. The Waterloo "Lake of Fire” is an artificial pond cut out of the coral rock, which was made for use as a "turtle crawl," and is about 300 feet wide by 900 or 1,000 feet long. It is connected with the sea by a small canal, the inflow being regulated by a gate; but the nature of the water seems to be the same, whether recently admitted or long retained in the pond. It is a phos- phorescent lake, a bright and shining body of water, what- ever be the cause, whether the tide be high or low; but, unlike the sun, it "shines for all” only at night, when it is at its best. The darker the night, the more brilliant the phos- phorescent flame that envelops the oars of one's boat, spouts out in spray from the bows, and clothes the naked negro boys, who swim alongside, as well as the fish, which dart away by hundreds with fiery trails in their wake. Coarse print may be read by this weird light, and the black boys swimming in the water remind one of the fabled “Dorado," or Gilded King—until they emerge from the phosphorescent element 50 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES and remind the visitor that the charge for their evolutions is a sixpence each! Arrangements for visiting Waterloo may be made at hotel or boarding-house-wherever one be staying—and parties are always ready to start almost at a moment's notice. A car- riage for the trip costs $1.25; but as the distance is short, it is not necessary. The Sea Gardens. In common with the Bermudas, the Bahamas can show a gorgeous display of sea-plants, while its fishes rival the hues of the rainbow in colour, its shells the tropical flowers in their tints. The lower islands furnish the beautiful king and queen conchs, and the rare and precious pink pearls are obtained there, while the waters sur- rounding all are filled with veritable “wonders of the deep." One need not go far to view the choicest of Neptune's treas- ures, for the Sea Gardens, as they are called, lie within five miles of town, and may be reached by an excursion in a launch or row-boat. The water is smooth all the way, and however one goes, a transfer should be made to the glass- bottomed boats made especially for viewing the treasures submarine. They are better than mere water-glasses, as a larger field of view is offered, and the growing plants and swimming fishes can be studied, together with their environ- ment. And what wonders are revealed, as the boat slowly drifts over white-sanded gardens, with huge sponges and tinted corals, among which swim goggle-eyed fish, with wav- ing fins and wiggling tails! The attitude of the observers in the glass-bottomed boat, on their knees, with eyes intently fastened upon the scenes below, is not the most dignified imaginable; but nobody takes notice of this, for all are wrapped in wonder. They seem to be drifting above a veritable jungle of tropical plants, and the currents sweeping in from the sea give the effect of a strong wind blowing, causing the sea-trees and shrubs to sway and nod. The bright-hued fish, swimming through this tropical forest, ap- peared like birds with coats of orange and crimson, azure and emerald. They rival the flowers in their multiplicity of colours; and the flowers of Nassau comprise roses and geraniums, begonias, oleanders, cannas, lilies, poinsettias, in on-flowers, night-blooming cereus, and a hundred other THE BAHAMAS species, all which bloom at any time of the year in open air. A steam launch leaves the Hotel Colonial landing daily dur- ing the winter season at 10 A.M. and 3 P.M., for the Sea Gardens, while sail-boats make the trip at all hours when weather permits. Surf Bathing, Hog Island. Nassau faces northward, toward the landlocked harbour that separates it from Hog Island, excursions to which cost only twenty-five cents. In former times Hog Island was the resort of pirates and wreck- ers, and under its lee, tradition says, the redoubtable “Black- beard" "played hell” with his sailormen by setting fire to a ton of brimstone in his ship's hold and compelling them to inhale the fumes. The piracies committed on Hog Island now are quite petty, as compared with those of the olden time; though it is hardly explicable why one should be charged another “quarter” for landing upon an island which would be absolutely unattractive but for one unique feature. The price of admission carries with it the freedom of the place, not only to bathe on the beach, but to devour all the fruit within reach. In order that all shall be served alike, the proprietor of the place has piles of fruit heaped on plat- ters placed on rustic tables, such as oranges and pineapples, peeled and with sticks inserted as handles, ready for devour- ing. It is the only proper way to eat such fruit as these, the Bahamans aver, and the proper time is immediately after the bath, such as Hog Island furnishes, with its fine beach and rolling surf. For those who do not care to expose them- selves to the heat and glaring sun, which must be endured by visitors to the beach, there is the big swimming-pool of the Colonial Hotel, which is a favourite with many. Nassau at Close View. The city is built upon a slope which attains a height of nearly 100 feet, and looks to the north, whence comes the winter patronage that keeps dull care and dire poverty from the homes of its residents. These homes are prettily set, each one in its own garden, with walls surrounding, over which hang cocoa-palms and bananas, while inside bright flowers may be found at all times. The houses, of course, are chimneyless, and hence to Northern eyes may seem incomplete; nor are they attractive as to archi- tecture, having been built for comfort rather than for show. 52 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Bay Street runs along shore within the harbour, and is the business thoroughfare, where, and at the wharves, may be seen the "marine curiosities” for which the island is so cele- brated—the sponges, conch shells, great green turtles, corals, shell-work, etc. The hill on which Nassau sits, or rather reclines, is about 3 miles long, and at either end is a fort, with another on the summit. Various lateral streets lead up the hill from Bay, but hardly one deserves a description in detail. The fish-market and the sponge exchange are features peculiar to the place, and should be visited. The grand old ceiba or silk-cotton tree in Court Square, with its vast bulk and buttressed trunk, will claim the reverence of every passerby, and cannot be overlooked. The public library building, an octagonal structure, contain- ing 15,000 volumes, was formerly a prison; but since the days of pirates and blockade-runners a more modern building has been erected for the retention of law-breakers. The Bahamans are law abiding, as a rule, and the jail is rarely filled, if ever. As the hardened criminals are put to breaking stone upon the roads, this spectacle of convicts sitting on stone-heaps in the glare of a tropical sun has a salutary and deterrent effect. The public buildings of Nassau occupy three sides of a square near the centre of the city, and cannot be mistaken. They contain the post-office, chief justice's office, court room, council chamber, treasury, custom house, etc. The western wing of the group is occupied by the House of Assembly, which can boast portraits on its walls of British sovereigns as far back as George III. and possession of a mace which was used in South Carolina before the Revolution. It was brought here by Loyalists, many of whom composed the best part of the Bahamas' population, especially in the "out islands," where they settled as planters. All the public officials have their offices in these buildings, but the residence of the chief executive is at Government House, on Mount Fitzwilliam. It stands in the centre of grounds about 18 acres in extent, and at the head of George Street, from which it is reached by a flight of steps. Carriage drives approach Gov- ernment House from two sides, and when it is reached a magnificent view is opened of the town and harbour. The approach to the house is guarded by a large statue of Colum- THE BAHAMAS bus, which, though said to have been modelled after sug- gestions by Washington Irving, his renowned biographer, has more the appearance of a buccaneer than a world-famous discoverer. It is, however, regarded with reverence by the "darky" population, who date the landing of Columbus in the Bahamas from the time the big boxes came with the marbles in them, and not from 1492! Standing above the statue of Columbus, with his marble toga and slouched hat as the foreground of the picture, we have an extensive view of town and harbour before us. Looking down George Street, we have, on the right, the cathedral, at the corner of King Street; farther down, at the corner of Bay, is the old Vendue House, an historic land- mark, to the right of which is the public market, with the public wharf in front of both. The streets and alleys all bear names suggestive of the times when the royal Georges ruled in England, as King, Queen, Charlotte, Cumberland, Frederick, Crown Aliey, Duke, Princes, etc. Four blocks east of Government House stands the Royal Victoria Hotel, with its fine grounds, lying between East and Parliament streets; north of it, across Shirley Street, is the old jail, now the library, directly in line with which are the public buildings, on three sides of the square containing the big ceiba tree. On Bay Street, west of Cumberland, are the soldiers' barracks and old ordnance yard, with the Parade Ground to the south, on Marlborough Street. Old Fort Fincastle. Crowning the summit of the hill back of the city, and lying to the east of the Royal Victoria Hotel, is a stone fort very much resembling a steamboat of the paddle-wheel type. This is Fort Fincastle, which was erected in 1789 by Lord Dunmore, and is now used as a sig- nal-station, for the view from its parapets commands the harbour and the sea beyond the entrance. While Fort Fin- castle is particularly worth a visit for its view, the usual approach to it is one of the peculiar features of this island, for it is by a passageway cut from the solid rock, 70 feet in depth by about 30 in width. It was probably made in order to afford the garrison of the fort a masked way of retreat to shore in case of sudden attack. Though known as the “Queen's Staircase," no queen of England ever saw 54 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES it; but this fact does not detract from its interest to visitors. Forts Charlotte and Montague. Three fortifications were constructed in the eighteenth century for the de- fence of Nassau, the oldest of the trio being Fort Mon- tague, date 1741, which guards the eastern end of the hill. The other is Fort Charlotte, two miles from Gov- ernment House, at the western end of the ridge, which was erected in 1788 by the same Lord Dunmore who caused the construction of quaint old Fincastle. Charlotte not only com- mands a magnificent view of the island and its near-by sisters, the harbour, etc., but contains subterranean dungeons, which are said to be connected by an underground passage with Government House. Access to the fort is over a drawbridge spanning a dry moat. On the shore below is a water battery, which commands the main, or western, entrance to the har- bour, and between the two a fine esplanade. Farther west- ward, along shore, is the race course, about 4 miles from town; the caves, 7 miles; Gambier Village, 10 miles; and Charlotteville, or Old Fort, 12 miles. The grounds appertaining to Fort Charlotte are now used by the Florida East Coast Hotel Company for golf, where there is "a course unsurpassed in the South,” the links being nine holes of 2,300 yards. A club house with lockers for guests is provided, where tea and light refreshments are served. Caddies may be obtained of the Green Keeper, while membership tickets, weekly, monthly, or for the season, with a full line of clubs and balls, may be secured at the Colonial News Room. The Nassau Club is regularly constituted, with a local president and Greens Committee in authority. This glimpse of the social life of Nassau might lead us to digress for the moment; but we will return to that topic later. With Fort Charlotte guarding Nassau on the west, Fin- castle its central portion, and Fort Montague its eastern ex- tremity, the town should have proved impregnable to assault in the days when England was at war with her colonies; but it is an historical fact that these fortifications thrice changed ownership in the eighteenth century. Fort Montague was captured by Commodore Hopkins, of the then embryonic American navy, in 1776; by Spaniards in 1781; and again by Fort Fincastle, Nassau 28 028 North Shore of Watling's Island. THE BAHAMAS 55 American Loyalists in 1783. The feat-of-arms and strategy by which gallant Colonel Devaux, a loyal Carolinian, gained possession of the fort, then held by the Spaniards, deserves more than passing mention. His force was far inferior to that of the Spaniards, but by sending his boats ashore filled with soldiers, who, instead of landing, lay down and were rowed back again to the brigantines, only to be returned to land over and over again, the wily colonel so deceived the enemy that they first parleyed, then surrendered. They only discovered their mistake after the fortress was in possession of the Americans, and of course too late, for their arms had been given up and they were prisoners. Commodore Hop- kins had abandoned the island as untenable, having been obliged to return to New England; but by this second cap- ture it reverted to the British, in whose possession it was confirmed by the subsequent treaty of peace. Hotels and Boarding-Houses. The prosperity which came to the Northern United States after the Civil War was shared to a great extent by those Southern States which possessed a desirable winter climate, and Florida especially became renowned as a resort. Increasingly, year by year, that State was visited by those desirous of escaping the rigours of a Northern winter, until the number reached into the hundreds of thousands. At first tourists were con- tented with the St. John's, St. Augustine, and contiguous sections; but with the building of the great East Coast Rail- way, which, beginning at Jacksonville, reached seaward and southward, annually increasing its length, until finally it con- fronted the Florida Keys and the Everglades, new and en- trancing regions were opened for them. In the wake of the railroad followed princely hotels, such as the Ponce de Leon at St. Augustine, capacity 500; the Alcazar, 600; the Ormond on the Halifax, 600; the Breakers, Palm-Beach-by- the-Sea, 600; the Royal Ponciana, Lake Worth, 1,500; the Royal Palm, at Miami, 500; and finally, the Colonial, at Nassau, capacity 700. During the "Aush times” of blockade-running, in order that their wealthy Southern visitors might be properly entertained, it is said, the Bahama lawmakers enacted that the Royal Victoria Hotel should be built, and it was, accordingly, at 56 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES a cost of $130,000. It was then the grandest structure on the island, and, of course, in all the Bahamas; built of native limestone, four stories high, and with three piazzas afford- ing a promenade of 1,000 feet. It was built upon an ele- vated site, nearly 100 feet above the bay, and surrounding it is a beautiful park-like garden, filled with fruits and flowers. This hotel and its annex have been acquired by the Florida East Coast system. The combined capacity of the trio is 1,100 guests: Colonial, 700; Royal Victoria, 300; and the Annex, 100. Their rates are: Colonial, $5 per day and up; the Royal Victoria, $4 and up; Victoria Annex (with rooms only), $3 and up. Special terms by the week and season. The Clifton House, on West Bay Street, is $2.50 per day, with special terms by the week; the Fredensborg, ten rooms, $2 per day, $12 per week; Marine Villa, East Bay Street, $2.50; the Premier, Frederick Street, $10 to $15 per week; the Mansion House, King and George streets, $8 to $12 per week ; Globe House, Market and King, $1.50 to $2 per day; Barrett House, East Bay Street, $2 per day, special for month or season; Gaydene, East Bay, rooms only, $3 to $4 per week; Sandringham, Shirley Street, $2 per day, special for season; Sea View, East Bay, $2.50 per day; Central House, Shirley Street, meals $1.25 per day, rooms according to location; Seaside, Bay Street and Victoria Avenue, rooms and board, $10 per week; Palm Villa, East Bay, rooms $6, no meals; Rosecote, table board, no rooms, $10 per week. For a small place, Nassau is well supplied with hotels and hostelries, some of which stand within their own grounds, are embowered in semi-tropical foliage, and have broad and cool verandas. There are also several pretty cottages and villas for hire by the season, furnished, a list of which can be obtained of the steamship agents. Social life here is similar to that in the Bermudas, with receptions at Government House, dances and other functions at the Colonial and Royal Victoria, golf at Fort Charlotte, teas at Fort Montague, and lawn tennis everywhere. The Nassau Club, on Bay Street, receives visitors with cre- dentials; the public library in the octagonal building extends the fullest favours to visitors for fifty cents per month, which includes admission to its reading-room, with use of periodicals. THE BAHAMAS 57 Nassau and the Bahamas still cling to the archaic currency of their ancestors, and it is necessary for the visitor to re- member that a half-penny is I cent, a penny 2 cents, three- pence 6 cents, sixpence 12 cents, a shilling 24 cents, and a Aorin 48 cents. American gold is always current and welcomed, also silver; but "coppers" and "nickels” are in- variably refused. The average rate of exchange is two per cent. Though lagging behind in the matter of a modern currency, the English colonies in the West Indies are in advance of the United States as respects their postal service, for while it costs by parcel post 12 cents per pound (with a limit of four pounds) in, to and from the United States, to or from England a total of eleven pounds can be sent at an expense of only 75 cents! The postage on sealed letters (postal- union rates) is 5 cents per half ounce; post cards, 2 cents; second-class matter same as in the United States. A telegraphic cable connects with the United States and all foreign countries, via Jupiter, coast of Florida, and American wires. A government telephone service has been installed in the city and suburbs of Nassau. The island is British, one hardly needs be told, and when driving one must turn to the left, as in the Bermudas, Barbados, Jamaica, and all the English colonies. Carriage Hire and Rates. Carriages, with more than four seats, extra for each seat ............. ....... ............... $0.25 Golf links, each person.. Hotels, from steamer's dock, each person......... Steamer's dock, from hotels, each person...... South West Bay and return, about 34 miles. Adelaide and return, about 26 miles.......... Miller's and return, about 22 miles................... South Beach and return, about 15 miles............... 2.50 Carmichael Village and return, about 14 miles........ Caves and return, via Bay Street, about 16 miles...... Lake Cunningham and return, via Bay Street, about 12 miles............. ......... Lake Killarney and return, via Bay Street, about 20 miles....... 3.50 Fox Hill and return, via Bay Street, about 12 miles.... 2.00 Waterloo Lake and return, via Bay Street or Shirley Street, night..... ........ 1.25 7.00 Niinisisi 3.40 ni 58 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES 214 Մ Ի ՕՄՄ և .......... ....... ................ 邓乃环 ​..... 6 Carriages for ordinary drives, first or part of hour.... 1.00 For each succeeding hour........ Carriages with rubber tires, extra per hour........... 25 Time allowed at each of the above-named places, fifteen minutes. After the expiration of this time the above hourly rates will be charged for additional time carriages are kept. DISTANCES FROM NASSAU POST OFFICE Miles To Fort Montague.. To Fox Hill... To Swing Gate...... To Carmichael .... To Adelaide ...... To South West Bay Landing... To Lake Cunningham........ To Lake Killarney............. 814 To The Caves........ To Gambier ... To Charlotteville or Old Fort..... 11344 To South Side, via Blue Hill Road.. Communications-Foreign and Inter-Insular-New York and Nassau. Two routes are open between New York and Nassau, one all sea, the other land and sea. The all-sea route has been longer established than the other. From New York to Nassau is 960 miles, in almost a direct line south, with a slight inclination westerly; the time of the voyage is about three days, and after Cape Hatteras is passed it is usually a very pleasant one, with smooth seas and increasingly enjoyable weather. Fare, first-class, one way $40, return $60. The voyage may, if desired, be prolonged, after a stay at Nassau, to the south coast of Cuba. Fare to Santiago (from Nassau), one way $25, return $40; to Cienfuegos, $30, and $63 return. During the winter season the Royal Mail Line, Hamburg- American and Quebec lines all extend their trips to Nassau, usually from the Bermudas, while the American excursion managers, the well-known Raymond and Whitcomb Com- pany, conduct several excursions thither. There is also a monthly service, by the Canadian Line, be- tween Montreal-Halifax and Nassau, fare $40. Distance, Halifax-Nassau, 1,380 miles. If one would avoid the long sea trip, a most delightful THE BAHAMAS 59 alternative is offered by rail all the way to Jacksonville, Florida (from any point in the United States), thence over the Flagler “East Coast” line of railway to Miami, 366 miles, where a steamer is taken across the strait to Nassau, In this manner one may reach Nassau within little more than fifty hours from New York. The time from Jacksonville to Miami, according to regular schedule, is under twelve hours, and across the strait fifteen hours. A tri-weekly steamer, elegantly fitted up, and with accommodations for 125 pas- sengers, leaves Miami at 3.P.M., arriving at Nassau 6.30 A.M., during the season, from the first week in January to the middle of April. Returning, it leaves Nassau at 3 P.M., arriving at Miami 6.30 next morning. Trips to the “Out Islands.” It is regrettable that the government of the Bahamas has provided no reliable means of communication between Nassau, the capital of the islands, and the other members of the chain; but such is the lament- able fact. Some desultory efforts have been made to estab- lish an inter-insular steam line, but hitherto without result, so it must be said that the only manner of reaching the numerous interesting islands is by sailing vessel. Even the mails are transported by this sort of craft, and the sail- ings are infrequent, the service unreliable. Boats may be obtained in any number, and schooners chartered for the various isles, at from $5 to $10 per diem; but there is no direct or reliable communication (at present) with the "out islands," as they are called. They are indeed “out islands" in every sense of the term, being not only outside the regular routes of travel, but actually outside the world of active life and interests. For this reason, perhaps, they are all the more interesting to the adventurous traveller, who, seeking new scenes and experiences, will find them veritably terre incognita. Great Bahama and Abacos. The nearest large island of the chain to the United States is Grand Bahama, which lies directly east of Jupiter, coast of Florida. It contains about 275,000 acres, partially covered with fine timber; its creeks and shores abound in fish and turtle; but it has no good harbour. Together with the Great and Little Abaco (area 496,000 square acres, population about 4,000) Grand Bahama 60 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES comprises a detached group of islands forming the extreme northwestern portion of the chain. There are several settle- ments on the Abacos, as New Plymouth, Hopetown, Cherokee Sound, and Marsh Harbour, the port of entry being Green Turtle Cay, on the northeastern shore of Abaco, dis- tant from Nassau 116 miles. The people are chiefly engaged in catching fish and turtle, with which the surrounding waters abound; but one of the most important industries is that of growing hemp, or sisal fibre, the largest plantation here containing 140 acres, with more than 100,000 plants. The white natives are of Irish and American ancestry, the latter descending from Loyalists who came hither after the Revolution and were rewarded with large grants of land in the islands. They have closely intermarried, are mostly Wesleyans or Methodists, and have the reputation of being the worst wreckers in the islands. So recently as January 1, 1904, an American bark went ashore off Hole-in-the-Wall, at Abaco, one Sunday, when the black population were at church. The parson lost no time in dismissing his congregation on re- ception of the news, and the entire body hastened to the shore. A flotilla of small boats containing 300 negroes surrounded the vessel, which they were only prevented from boarding by an ingenious ruse of the captain, who threw over silver coins by the handful, keeping the blacks busy diving for them, while his mate and crew hastened ashore with their nautical instruments. These they saved, but they could not prevent the wreckers from boarding the bark eventually, which they completely dismantled. Spongers, wreckers, fishermen, and turtlers, as they are, the Abaconians have also a reputation as boat builders, not only supplying Nassau with fish, turtle, and sponges, but with the stanchest and finest craft that sail Bahaman waters. Hole-in-the-Wall, so called from its perforated cliff, lies directly north of Nassau, about half way between that place and Green Turtle Cay, where there is a lighthouse. The Biminis and the "Fountain of Youth." Near the northwestern edge of the Great Bahama Bank, easterly from Miami, and only one-third the distance from that place to Nassau, lie two islands bearing an historic name. These are the Biminis, which, when Juan Ponce de Leon was traversing THE BAHAMAS these waters, were said to contain that wonderful "Fountain of Eternal Youth” of which he was so long in search. With an old Indian woman from Porto Rico as pilot, Ponce de Leon ranged through the entire chain of islands in his quest for the fabled fountain in 1513. He did not succeed in finding it, but did discover the “Land of Flowers," or Florida, which in some measure compensated him for his failure as to the wellspring of rejuvenescence. “Bimini" was a name applied by the Indians to Florida, and thus appears on the old maps, but when it was given to these islands is unknown. A sparse population occupies North Bimini, which contains about 1,900 acres; while South Bimini, separated from the other by a narrow channel, is uninhabited. Two small settle- ments, Alicetown and Baileytown, contain the major portion of the people, mostly blacks, to the number of about 700. They do a little wrecking when occasion offers, sponging, and fishing; also cultivate sugar-cane, corn, and cocoanuts. Thousands of cocoanut trees grow here in groves, formi: 3 a distinctive and pleasing feature of the landscape. North of the Biminis lie the Great and Little Isaacs und south of them Gun Cay, all of which places are good shoot- ing and fishing grounds. Northwest of New Providence, within easy sail, are the Berry Islands, of which Great Har- bour Cay is the largest, with about 3,800 acres, and a total population in the group of less than 200 people, mostly negroes. There is a grove of cocoanuts on one of the islets known as Frazer's Hog Cay, containing upward of 30,000 trees. Andros Island. Ninety miles in length and 20 to 40 in breadth, it is the largest in the archipelago, also the least known, though within about twenty miles of New Provi- dence. It has great forests, which have rarely been pene- trated by white men, swamps, creeks, and bayous teeming with wild water-fowl, such as ducks and flamingos, and precious woods, as mahogany, cedar, mastic, ebony, and logwood; but its resources have never been exploited. Though about 500 square miles in extent, it is sparsely pop- ulated, and the blacks, from their long seclusion, it is said, have reverted to the original type as found in Africa. They number about 3,500, and send two members to the House of Assembly at Nassau; but a hundred years ago the inhab- 62 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES itants were nearly as numerous as now. The island is said to be the only one in the Bahamas containing running streams; its soil is good, though comparatively little of the surface is cleared, and produces pineapples, sugar-cane, oranges, bananas, and cocoanuts. Partially surrounded by a great barrier-reef of coral, within which is a large lagoon with numerous entrances, a yachting-ground is afforded for yachts of shallow draught that is unsurpassed in these waters; but there is no good harbour at which ships can anchor. Vessels of less than 5 feet draught may find anchorage on the east shore, off Nicolls Town, Fresh Creek, Morgan's Bluff, Deep Creek, Boat Harbour, Long Bay Cay, South Bight, and Goulding's Cay. The wild character of Andros may be inferred from the fact that its mangrove swamps contain colonies of beautiful flamingos, which birds have become extinct in other islands. The island was named after Governor Andros, who was expelled from New Eng- land in 1690. Eleuthera and “Glass Window.” Perhaps the most fas- cinating of the many islands within easy sailing distance of Nassau is Eleuthera, which lies to the eastward, and pro- tects it from the Atlantic surges. There is smooth sailing all the way, as the great sound is almost landlocked, pro- tected by this natural breakwater, nearly 70 miles in extent. The island contains about 105,000 acres and several settlements. The most populous of these is Harbour Island, with Dunmore Town (2,000 inhabitants), said to be next to, Nassau in the size of its population. Harbour Island itself is only a mile and a half in extent, and is so named from its harbour, which is spacious and safe, but available only for vessels of 9 feet draught and under. Groves of cocoanut trees embellish the town, which is pleasantly situated, and on the seaward side of the island is a beach floor composed of pinkish coral, one of the prettiest spots in the chain. The Harbour lies at Eleuthera's northern end, and it is but a short sail-2 miles-across to the main island, where the residents have their cocoanut groves and provision grounds, which they visit every morning in their sail-boats, some 200 in number, returning at night. The shores of Eleuthera are vind- and water-carved into strange forms, the most wonder- THE BAHAMAS 63 ful being the great limestone arch known as the "Glass Window," 85 feet above the ocean, upon which it opens. Though considered perfectly safe to visit, it was at one time, in 1872, suddenly swept by a tidal wave, which carried away several people picnicking there. Besides the settlement of Harbour Island, Eleuthera con- tains Spanish Wells, about 5 miles distant, at the north- west point, on St. George's Cay; the Bluff, 5 miles south of the latter, with 500 population; Current Island, containing a small colony of negroes; Gregorytown, noted for its pine- apples; Governor's Harbour, chiefly built upon a great rock about 1,000 feet long by 300 wide, connected with the main by a narrow causeway; Savannah Sound, so named from an ocean inlet resembling a very attractive inland lake, with wooded shores and exquisitely tinted water, with an average depth of less than 3 feet; Tarpum Bay, on the south shore, 8 miles from the sound, so called from the former abundance of the fish of that name; Rock Sound, 10 miles southerly, a pineapple place, but formerly a wreckers' resort; and finally, 30 miles farther south, Weymis's Bight, cele- brated for its oranges and pines, and once the abode of orig- inal proprietors, who were expelled by Spaniards in 1680, the ruins of whose estates may still be seen. Taken altogether, Eleuthera is the most attractive island of the chain, and is comparatively accessible from Nassau. Owing to its coral formation, there are several caves adorned with stalactites, which are worthy of exploration. One is near Governor's Harbour and is 1,100 feet in length; another not far from Rock Sound, near an inland pond called “Ocean Hole," the water in which is more than 100 feet deep, and rises and falls with the tides. Great and Little Exuma. It would be impossible to de- scribe all the rocks and cays composing the Bahamas which might possess attractions to the tourist if they were numerous or varied. Attached to the two islands called the Great and Little Exuma, and which combined contain 70,000 acres, are, no less than 166 cays, altogether forming a western wall to the Exuma Sound, on the east of which, and southeast of Eleuthera, is situated an island celebrated in history. This is Cat Island, or San Salvador, about 42 miles long 64 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES by 4 miles wide, and containing 102,000 acres of such thin soil as is found throughout the Bahamas generally. It has several settlements, largely composed of blacks and coloured people, and is celebrated for its delicious pineapples, agri- culture and cattle raising being the chief occupations of its 4,000 population. The principal settlement is called the Bight, 30 miles distant from which is another known as the Bluff. Between the Bight and the Bluff are scattered some small settlements; but there is no particular attraction for the traveller anywhere, except it be in the connection of this island with the first voyage of Columbus. Washington Irving named it as the original Guanahani, called by Columbus San Salvador, which was his first landfall; but of late years a contrary opinion has arisen. The island is shaped like a boot, and at the heel of it, thrust out toward the Atlantic, is Columbus Point, where not only the famous navigator is said to have landed, but where, in July, 1898, a ship salvaged from Cervera's fleet, the Santa Maria, stranded and was lost. When the inevitable wreckers approached to dismantle the warship a large black cat leaped from her to the rocks and ran into the woods; though it was not from this circumstance that the island received its modern name. Just who bestowed this appellation is not known, but it was probably some one of the buccaneers who made the island their rendezvous. Watlings Island. Easterly from Cat Island, and about 200 miles distant from Nassau, we find another claimant for Columbian honours in Watlings Island, for later investigators than Irving have declared it is the veritable one upon which Columbus first landed on October 12, 1492. It is about 12 miles in length and 6 in breadth, has no safe harbour and but one small settlement, Cockburn Town, on its lee- ward shore, where the very few white people it contains have their residence. Most of the population is black and poverty-stricken, numbering about 600. The surface of the island is uineven, consisting of low hills between which are lagoons of salt water. From the fact that this island has the only interior body of water found in this region, the investi- gators have concluded it must be that of the landfall, for Columbus makes particular mention of a lake similar to this THE BAHAMAS 65 of Watlings. He also describes in his journal a landlocked bay, which exactly answers to the description of Graham's Harbour in this island; but in many respects the reality and the description by Columbus do not agree. It is as possible, after all, that the first landing of Columbus in the New World may have been on Eleuthera as on Cat or Watlings, but at present the weight of authority seems in favour of the last named. Here is a problem, anyway, which is still to be solved, perhaps by the inquiring mind of some acute traveller who may read these lines ! Rum Cay and Long Island Southeast of Watlings is Rum Cay, which is thought to have been the second island visited by Columbus in the Bahamas. It is about 10 miles long by 4 miles broad, with a black and semi-barbarous population less than 400 in number, among whom the old wrecker sentiment is still strong: that to the natives belong the ships that founder on their shores. On the north- east shore of this island is a cave which is said to contain aboriginal carvings in the rocks. On Watlings, also, are caves that suggest original Indian occupancy, in one of which, some years ago, an aboriginal dugout, or canoe, was found. The Bahamas, in fact, abound in interesting caverns. The population of Long Island, which is 57 miles by 2 or 3 in extent, is about 2,500, of the customary complexion in the Bahamas, the few white people being de- scendants of wealthy Loyalists who settled here after the American Revolution. There is here neither attractive scenery, of tropical or any other character, nor a settlement worthy of a visit. Crooked, Fortune, and Acklin Islands. An interesting group of islands for exploration is presented in that con- taining the trio named at the beginning of this paragraph. Crooked Island contains about 48,000 acres of poor soil, and perhaps 700 negroes, whose chief occupation is agricultural, though fishing and turtling are carried on by all. There is a straggling settlement called Pittstown, on a rocky ridge, but no good harbour. Some very interesting caves and grottoes are to be found on the ocean side of the island, which display wonderful, water-worn rocks in shape of castles and churches. One of these caves is entered through 66 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES an opening masked by wild fig trees and vines, through which the sunlight filters upon a floor of sand. Fortune Island adjoins Crooked, and is separated from Acklin only by a narrow sound so shallow that it may some- times be waded at low water. It is 9 miles long, by less than a mile wide, about 800 acres in area, and supports a population, almost entirely black, of some 700. Its inhabi- tants are industrious, and labour in the salt-ponds, which are very productive. Steamers on their way to and from New York and Jamaica, as well as Panama, make Albert- town, the settlement, a port of call, for the purpose of ob- taining labourers to discharge cargo, taking them up on the southward voyage, and dropping them off on the north- ward. There is no harbour, but a good roadstead, off which passing steamers may be induced to stop or slow up for passengers, but make no landing. This is, in fact, the only island between New Providence and Inagua, a distance of perhaps 500 miles, at which steam-vessels even touch, all communication being by sailing craft. Acklin, largest of the Crooked Island group, is about 45 miles long by from 2 to 4 wide, and its popula- tion of 800 mainly resides at or near its only settlement, called Atwood's Harbour. There is not much cultivation here, and the shipments mostly consist of natural products, such as cave guano, ebony, brazil-wood, and lignum-vitæ. The "human documents" here are chiefly of the African variety. Inagua and Mayaguana. Inagua, the larger of these two, contains some 240,000 acres, mostly worthless, being about 45 miles in length by 18 in breadth. It has exten- sive salt-ponds, a mile or so from Matthew stown, its only settlement, capable of producing annually 1,500,000 bushels. “Salt raking” is the principal occupation of Inagua's inhabitants, about 1,000 in number, who also raise cattle and cocoanuts, which are shipped to Haiti and the United States. This island is called “Great to distinguish it from "Little” Inagua, which lies near it, is about 8 miles, by 5 in extent, and is uninhabited. Near these, also, lies Mayaguana, 25 miles long by an average of 4; low-lying, well-wooded, with a black population of between 200 and 200. The Hamburg-American Line makes weekly calls at THE BAHAMAS Inagua on its Haiti-Santa Marta service. Time to New York, 5 days; to Port au Prince, 2 days. The Caicos. This name is applied to a crescentic group of islands near the southeastern end of the Bahamas, which, with Turks Island, are about 170 miles in area. They com- prise North, South, East, West, and Grand Caicos, and have a total population of 100 whites and 3,000 blacks (including the coloured people). They are mainly descended, says Sir Henry Norman, from slaves brought over by Loyalist refugees from Georgia, in the United States. These Loyal- ist settlers constructed substantial stone houses and made good roads, possessed horses and cattle, and raised crops; but they and their descendants have long since disappeared. The blacks who remained lapsed into something little short of savagery, and the islands became overgrown with bush. It is only of late years that efforts have been made to im- prove conditions; but as yet not much progress has been made. This statement may be applied to nearly all the Bahama islands. The sea surrounding the Caicos contains fields of sponges, which are gathered, sorted, baled, and sent to Grand Turk, whence they are shipped to New York. Here are found, also, the conch containing the valuable pink pearls, prices for which, even in the local market, are so high that the lucky finder of one is generally enabled to buy himself a boat,"the usual summit of his ambition.” Sisal hemp cultivation has been introduced, and the salt industry of Cockburn Harbour, on the South Caicos, is quite exten- sive. At this place there are nearly 250 acres of salt-ponds, and the output is by the thousands of bushels. Island of Grand Turk. The Turks and Caicos Islands were annexed to Jamaica, as a governmental dependency, in 1848, because, though the distance separating them from Nassau was about the same as that from Kingston, Jamaica (a little more than 500 miles), the Bahama capital was more difficult to reach and there were no means of quick com- ·munication. While geographically belonging to the Ba- hamas, politically these islands pertain to Jamaica, with which there is frequent communication by steamers. They are governed by a commissioner assisted by a legislative 68 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES board, with the advice of a judge of the supreme court, and subject to the assent of Jamaica's governor. The annual revenue and expenditure of this group are from $30,000 to $40,000; the exports amount to about $120,000, and the imports to $140,000, and are not increasing. Grand Turk, island and town, is the capital of the group, and con- tains about one-third the total population, which was 5,100 in 1905. The island is 7 miles long by 1/2 wide, and there is a small dependency 9 miles southwest-Salt Cay, where an assistant commissioner resides. There are only 15 white people in Salt Cay, and less than 240 in Grand Turk, the majority being of African origin. Salt raking is the only industry of importance, the amount annually gathered and exported being about 1,800,000 bushels, or 60,000 tons. There are 230 acres of salt-ponds in Grand Turk, and 114 at Salt Cay. Each acre is roughly estimated to yield about 4,000 bushels of salt per annum; but the weather must continue fine during the season, as the product is obtained by evaporation, which is retarded by storms. The salt is shipped in bulk, in sailing-vessels, and four lighters, manned by 10 men each, often lade a 200-ton ship in one day. The town of Grand Turk is small, neat and cleanly, with a few stores, several consulates, a market-place, public library and reading-room, a church, a court-house, prison, and schools, but without hotels or boarding-houses. There is little here worth coming to see, except the salt-ponds and their output, some caves that once contained aboriginal re- mains in the Caicos, and the processes of conching and sponging. The island was originally settled by Bermudians, who came here to rake salt as early as 1670. The people here are very poor, but taxation is nil, being indirect, or derived from duties on imports. There are no good springs on the island, and all drinking-water comes from the clouds, being stored in reservoirs by individuals and by gov- ernment; there being 7 public tanks, capable of holding 230,- 000 gallons. Fish of numerous kinds are abundant, but fresh meats and vegetables scarce. The climate is hot and de- pressing at times, but healthful in the main. Steam Communication. New York and Grand Turk: Landing Place, Turk's Island Coffee Tree, Cuba THE BAHAMAS 69 the Clyde Line steamers, twice a month, to and from Santo Domingo. Halifax, Bermudas and Jamaica : Pickford and Black Line, monthly each way. England and Jamaica : Imperial West India Mail, once a fortnight. CABLE COMMUNICATION with Bermudas, Jamaica, and the rest of the world by the Direct West India Company, estab- lished in 1898. Money in circulation: all kinds of gold and silver, with a local paper currency of ten-shilling and one-pound notes. As of all the islands, it may be said that "commercial ac- counts are usually kept in dollars, and government accounts in 'sterling'”-one system standing for progress and the other for decadence! As we have noted in our view of the Bahama chain, but three islands, New Providence, Inagua and Grand Turk, possess direct steam and cable connection with the outside world. The first and last-named islands are 500 miles apart; they include hundreds of cays and islets between them, yet there is no public house for the “entertainment of man and beast” outside of Nassau; to reach which, from Grand Turk, the most available route is via New York! History. The history of the Bahamas may be said to have been "writ in water,” since they were discovered by seafarers, settled by them, and for years held in their pos- session. We know, of course, that an island of the Bahamas was the first land in the West Indies discovered by Euro- peans, when Christopher Columbus made his "landfall,” somewhere about midway of the archipelago. Just where it was, is more or less conjecture; but be that as it may, the island was certainly one of the Bahamas. Through the chain, also, gallant Ponce de Leon, putative discoverer of Florida, wended his way in search of the mythical “Fountain of Eternal Youth” in 1513, and again in 1521, the year he met his death. The Spaniards made no settlements on the islands, but returned to them only for the purpose of enslav- ing the original inhabitants, whom they soon exterminated. Not many years after the discovery, scarcely a score of Indians remained alive, and we know of their existence only 70 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES through tradition, history, and the few remains they left behind, in the shape of celts, shards of pottery, canoes, and skeletons, which have been preserved in caves, to which they fled for safety when pursued by the Spaniards. The first settlement was attempted by Englishmen about 1667, when a Captain Sayles sought shelter in the harbour of an island which he named Providence, in token of his gratitude for deliverance from a storm. It is that now known as New Providence, and more than 170 years had passed since the discovery of the Bahamas before a settle- ment was founded. The vindictive Spaniards resented this invasion of what they considered their territory, by de- scending upon New Providence a few years later, slaugh- tering its settlers, and roasting their governor over a slow fire. Pirates and Buccaneers. While, by this barbarous act, others were deterred from settling here for years thereafter, the southern islands had already become the abode of dar- ing adventurers, known as buccaneers, or "brethren of the sea,” who banded together to capture the treasure-ships of the Spaniards as they came up from Panama and the Span- ish Main. As they had to pass through the tortuous chan- nels among the Bahamas, they were peculiarly exposed to attack, and many became the prey of the buccaneers. They did not confine their depredations to the commerce of Spain, however, and soon were declared outlaws and pirates. One of the most notorious of the pirates who infested these seas was "Blackbeard,” so called from his luxuriant whiskers, which he was wont to tie up in tails and adorn with lighted matches. He and his brother marauders are said to have held council under the famous banyan tree, which is now one of the sights of Nassau. He became such a menace to English commerce that Captain Woodes Rogers (the naval officer who had rescued Alexander Selkirk, at Juan Fernandez, in 1707) was sent out to capture and hang him. He did not succeed, for Blackbeard left the Bahamas and went to the Carolina coast, where he was killed and beheaded in 1718. A scarcely less infamous class of adventurers succeeded the pirates—the wreckers, who lured many a ship to de- struction on the numerous reefs, and whose descendants live THE BAHAMAS 71 in the islands to-day. In fact, there are wreckers yet alive and who have plundered vessels in the present century. A band of them was brought to Nassau for trial in the winter of 1903-04, charged with boarding and plundering a pleas- ure yacht which had foundered on a reef off Rum Cay. While exempt from war within their borders, the Bahamas have benefited by the misfortunes attendant upon strife without, as in 1812, and especially in the Civil War between the States. Blockade-runners made Nassau their rendez- vous, and were warmly welcomed, as they were also in the Bermudas. Almost fabulous riches were accumulated during the four years of blockade-running, exports and im- ports rising to more than ten times what they were before the war, and everybody shared the influx of wealth. Never had Nassau been so seemingly prosperous; but after the war it lapsed into its wonted state of semi-somnolence, only to be aroused by the advent of the winter tourists from the North. Aside from pecuniary considerations, the Bahamas were sentimentally inclined towards the Southern States of America, not merely from contiguity, but owing to the fact that many of their settlers had been Southern Loyalists, who, after the Revolution, removed hither, with their slaves and portable properties. They made a brave fight for existence, they enriched the islands with their wealth; but at present few traces of them remain, except in abandoned planta- tions, ruined dwellings, and descendants of the negroes whom they brought with them by thousands, and who were freed by the emancipation act of 1834. CUBA Physical Features. Lying directly south of Florida, and distant from Key West only 90 miles, Cuba is the nearest West Indian island of importance to the United States. It is about 780 miles in length, and varies in width from 100 miles to 20, with a coast line of about 2,000 miles. To- gether with its islands and cays, it has an area of about 45,000 square miles, one-fourth of which is mountainous, nearly three-fourths plains and valleys, the remainder swampy. Its highest mountains are in the Sierra Maestra range, southeastern part of the island, with Pico Turquino, 8,320 feet, second only to the highest in the Antilles (Monte Tina of Santo Domingo), and surpassing the Blue Moun- tain Peak of Jamaica by about 1,000 feet. While Cuba's coast is considered "foul” by mariners, hav- ing more than 600 sandy cays or shoals off the north shores and 700 off the south, it probably has more good ports, for an island of its size, than any other in the world. It has been called “the Island of a Hundred Harbours,” more than 50 of which are ports of entry, many of them deep and pouch-shaped, though with narrow entrances, and completely landlocked. Into some of them discharge beautiful rivers, to the number of 150, though only one, the Cauto, of San- tiago province, is navigable for more than a few miles. Most of the great swamps are found on the south-central coast, the tropical forests in the eastern province, and the mineral resources, such as iron, some gold, copper, mangan- ese, etc., in the mountains of the southeast. The flora of Cuba, mainly tropical, contains more than 3,000 species, including the entire range of the torrid zone, in the northern part of which it is situated (between 20° and 23° north latitude), with such precious woods as mahogany, lignum-vitæ, granadilla, fragrant cedar, and log- wood, such delicious fruits as the banana, orange, sapadilla, custard-apple, mango and pineapple. The forest area is esti- mated at nearly 50 per cent of the island's total, of which SALVADOR ATLING I. Luding place Lof-Columbus Oet, 12, 1492 LEY aşsage & CO. 6122 lich CUBA more than 1,200,000 acres are owned by the government and available for exploitation. Climate and Healthfulness. While the Bermudas and Bahamas may be safely visited at any time of the year, the same cannot be said of Cuba, which in summer is decidedly unhealthful along the coast. The former scourge, yellow fever, has to a great extent been stamped out by the ener- getic action of the United States military authorities; but in many sections malaria is endemic, and one must observe moderation in diet and take precautions as to exposure to the night air and midday sun. The climate is salubrious, on the whole, especially in the winter months, or from Janu- ary to April, the excessive rainfall of the summer months interfering with travel over the country roads and engender- ing malaria. The mean winter temperature is from 72° to 74° along the coast and in the lowlands; that of midsum- mer is 82° to 88°, depending upon locality. In the moun- tains a temperature of 50° is sometimes experienced; but frost is unknown, and snow has fallen only once in the last fifty years. Neglect of sanitary measures is the chief cause of local diseases, but in the summer-time one is more liable to con- tract them than in the winter. A cool breeze generally plays along the coast, the prevailing wind being the northeast trade. Frequent "northers," strong and cool, produce an equivalent of seasonal changes, and once in a great while the island is visited by a hurricane. That of 1846 destroyed nearly 2,000 houses in Havana alone and wrecked 300 ves- sels, while the growing crops, especially in the eastern part, have often been levelled to the ground. These hurricanes occur, however, in the summer months, generally in August or September, and are rarely experienced by the tourist, who will naturally prefer to visit the island in winter. Cuban Fauna. The indigenous fauna of Cuba does not abound in animals for the chase, and it is not by any means a “hunter's paradise”; though deer shooting can be found in the swamps, and the birds, 200 species, include the wild turkey, dove, quail, snipe and pigeon. Birds of song and brilliant plumage are found in the forests and on their borders, but the only native quadruped is the utia, 74 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES or hutia, a rat-like animal 12 to 16 inches in length, the flesh of which is eaten by Cuban Creoles, but is not very palatable. The giant manatee is found in the mouths of creeks and rivers, and the coastal waters abound in fish (nearly 650 species), including immense sharks, red snappers, etc. The most numerous insect is the fire-beetle (native name cucuyo), which has a brilliantly luminous spot on each side of its head, and adorns the meadows by thousands. It is perfectly innocuous; though the same cannot be said of certain other insects which are common in Cuba, as the centipede, the scorpion, tarantula, and chigoe or "jigger.” While relatively numerous, however, these latter rarely sting, and are not encountered in the cities. Of reptiles there is a full assortment: alligators in the creeks, iguanas in the mangrove swamps, lizards everywhere in the coun- try, and a few species of snake in the forests. Of ser- pents or snakes, the largest is the majá, a boa constrictor, which sometimes attains a length of 12 to 14 feet. It is, however, perfectly harmless to human beings, though it robs the hen-roosts and makes way with small animals. Another snake, the juba, about 6 feet in length, is said to be venom- ous, though the traveller is not likely to encounter it. The Cuban shell-fish are of inferior quality, oysters and crabs being the most numerous. The former abound in bays, creeks and inlets, and the latter (the land-crabs) make long journeys overland in the season of rains. Useful Hints. No passport is needed in Cuba. American money can be exchanged for Spanish silver, which is in use locally, at the following equivalents, fixed by the United States Government during the American intervention: ......... $0.60 Peso (Spanish dollar).... Medio Peso (half dollar).... Peseta (Spanish unit of value)........ Real (dime)......... Medio Real.. The rate of exchange, which varies slightly, may be learned from the daily papers or obtained of hotel clerks and guides. CUBA Rates of postage same as in the United States. Customs. While all luggage must be opened for inspec- tion, the first thing after reaching dock at any port in Cuba, the customs officials will be found courteous and obliging. All wearing apparel is admitted free and there is a liberal allowance for necessities of travel. On returning from Cuba the tourist will be allowed to enter any port of the United States or England under the rules governing the customs in those countries. In the United States articles not intended for sale may be taken in free up to the value of $100, although cigars are limited to fifty in number and cigarettes to three hundred. The British customs rarely bar anything necessary to the traveller's comfort except tobacco and spirits. American Legations. An American minister plenipoten- tiary resides at Havana, 260 San Lazaro Street; the United States consul at 76 Cuba Street; and there are consuls or consular agents at every port, to whom a stranger should apply when involved in difficulties requiring diplomatic assistance. The British Legation is at 101 Aguiar Street. Havana. While the island of Cuba possesses scores of good harbours, each port has its distinctive landmark, by which the approaching sailors easily identify it, even in the darkest night. This landfall is usually a hill or mountain, and in the case of Havana there are two conical hills, called the Tetas de Managua, about 700 feet high, which rise to the south of the city, inland. Nearing the land, the tall shaft of the Morro (the light tower) looms against the sky-line, followed by the bulk of the fortress, or castle, about 100 feet above the harbour level. The light in the tower may be seen 15 to 18 miles at sea, for it is well set upon its rocky headland, breasting the sea, and in a storm the raging waves dash against the walls that guard it, flying even over the ramparts. The pilot is already aboard ship before the steamer arrives under the Morro, and the health authorities by the time the Punta, or fort on the Point, is passed, and while one is admiring the fortifications of Cabañas, which crown and lie against the heights across the harbour from the city, the vessel comes to anchor. The harbour entrance is scarcely 76 A ĠUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES more than 1,000 feet in width, but once inside expands to a length of about 3 miles, with a breadth of a mile and a half. Perhaps no harbour in the world surpasses that of Havana for safety and capacity, and there is certainly none that con- tains an equal quantity of filth. Like most of Cuba's ports, this one is a complete cul de sac, with but one outlet, and for centuries has been the dumping-place of garbage, receptacle of sewage and polluted liquids generally. In the olden times, and not so long ago at that, the mariner approaching Havana needed no other guide than his nose, for at night the off- shore breeze bore to him such overpowering stenches that he had only to put his vessel head to the wind and trace the evil odours to their source! The Americans improved the city much, and indicated to the Cubans how they might have their harbour scoured of its filth by opening an inlet from the sea back of the Morro. Landing at Havana. Though the largest steamers can approach the wharves, owing to powerful "lighterage" inter- ests they are compelled to anchor in the bay, at a distance sufficient to allow a fee to be charged for landing. The boats used for this purpose are safe, the boatmen courteous; but the mere fact that one is compelled to employ them is an annoyance, though the fee is small. Hotel “runners" meet all steamers, and the pursers of the various steamship lines act as agents of the Cuban and Pan-American Express Com- pany, which checks luggage to any point in the city, or stores it on call at its office. Since the American occupation of Cuba many innovations have been made tending to the com- fort and convenience of the traveller, and the baggage- transfer system is one of them. Havana has always possessed an extensive and complete hack service, her "victorias” hav- ing long been famous. Fare from landing wharf to any hotel within the city limits, two persons, 20 cents in Spanish silver (see table); three persons, 25 cents; four, 30 cents. Electric cars also traverse the city, starting from the Machina, or custom-house wharf, as one of their termini, and persons without large luggage can avail of them; fare, 5 cents, or 7 cents Spanish silver. Hotels and Restaurants. Havana is well supplied with CUBA 77 hotels, also with restaurants, the prices prevailing being somewhat above those for similar service in England and the United States. The largest and best hotels are situated on or near the Prado, or central park and avenue, which bisects the city; but there are also several in the suburbs, as at the Vedado and Guanabacoa. All are well supplied with guides and interpreters, so that no one need go astray in Havana. Spanish, of course, is the native language, but even the gamins speak English, are everywhere encountered, and are always at the traveller's service, though perhaps not always trustworthy. The Prado. The Prado is a central parkway connecting a system of parks in the heart of the city with the seashore. The Prado and parks combined form an unequalled breathing space and central rallying place for Havana's population, which enjoys them to the full. The system begins at the Parque de Colon, or Columbus Park, which is adorned with lawns, tropical trees, and shrubs, as well as a fountain, and runs northwardly through the best part of the city. Nearly every street which it is desirable for the traveller to visit is intersected by this series of delectable parklets, at the southern end of which is that known as La India (the Indian), from an exquisite marble statue of an Indian prin- cess, whom the Havanese choose to regard as allegorical of their city, surmounting a fountain and guarded by mythical monsters. The Prado proper connects La India with the cen- tral feature of the series, which, though formerly known as the Parque Isabel (from a statue of the Spanish queen which adorned it), is now called Parque Central. This Central Park is a beautiful spot, with concrete walks, flower-beds, statuary, laurel trees cut in formal shapes, and is a favourite resort, especially late in the afternoon and at night. Sur- rounded as it is by hotels, theatres, club-houses, restaurants, with ample space for promenades between its parterres of flowers beneath gorgeous flame trees, masses of vivid colour, in the gleam of powerful electric lights, Central Park is con- stantly crowded from dusk till after midnight. There is probably no noisier or more bustling place in the world than the Prado, from Central Park to the Malecon, after the shades of night have fallen. Nearly every night of the winter A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES season is a perfect one, with deep blue sky and flaming stars, perchance a glorious moon flooding the scene with silvery light, and hence there is no postponement of the gaiety "on account of the weather,” which is always fine. Then the double promenades of the Prado, within their boundaries of deep-green laurel trees, are densely crowded, while, especially of a Sunday afternoon and evening, a solid procession of elegant equipages slowly moves down one side and up the other. Five times a week in the season-on Sunday after- noon and evening, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday-de- lightful music is rendered by the famed Municipal Band, either in the Parque Central or at the Malecon, which is a parked embankment overlooking the sea-wall, commanding magnificent views of the harbour entrance, Morro Castle on its promontory beyond, and the farther waters of the open Gulf. The original Prado was begun by the Spaniards long ago, when General Tacon was in power; but Havana owes its extension and completion to the Americans, who put the finishing touch to this great work by practically creating the Malecon and opening the glorious vista between parallel rows of stately residences terminated by old Morro Castle across the harbour. Among the structures that line the Prado there are many, like the Spanish Casino, the fair white marble club-house of the Associated Clerks, the new hotel for millionaires exclusively, that would attract attention any- where; but the most obtrusive of these is a great yellow building at the east and near the foot of the parkway, at one side of Punta Park. This is the Carcel and Presidio, or penitentiary, which was built in 1839. It is 300 feet long by 240 wide, and can hold 5,000 prisoners. It was one of the filthy buildings that the Americans cleaned up, as well as out, when they undertook the task of cleansing the Augean stables of Havana. Here was contained the dreadful garrote, by which the condemned were executed, permission to in- spect which, as well as the Carcel itself, must be obtained of the municipal authorities. Punta Castle. The Malecon terminates the Prado park- way with a music-stand, or temple, of classical design, con- taining 20 Ionic columns bearing aloft an entablature CUBA 79 and dome inscribed with the names of famed composers. It is a temple of music fitly set beneath a sky as clear as that of Greece, and the views from it are superb. The massive sea-wall curves around in front of it to a more ancient structure, the Castillo de la Punta, or Punta Castle, one of the fortifications originally planned for the defence of Havana, and, with the Morro opposite, guarding the harbour entrance. It was begun 260 years ago, was silenced by British guns in 1762 (or rather, by Spanish guns turned upon it by the British after they had captured the larger castle), and now is regarded as more ornamental than useful, having been admitted into the general scheme for beautifying Havana by the extension of a seaside parkway and boulevards. Students' Memorial. Between the Punta and the Carcel site stands the "Students' Memorial,” consisting of an inscribed tablet set into the fragment of a building, the rest of which was demolished in the American march of improvement. It commemorates the massacre near this spot of eight young Cuban students, the oldest of whom was only sixteen, No- vember 27, 1871. They were charged with insulting the memory of a Spaniard who had fallen in a duel with a Cuban, and, after the pretence of a trial, were shot by Spanish volunteers. Plaza de Armas. The Place of Arms, or Military Square, of ancient Havana was really the beginning of the city, and probably dates from 1519, as it was the custom of Spaniards in that time to first erect a gallows-tree, then layout a Plaza de Armas, around which they grouped the civil, mili- tary, and ecclesiastical structures. It was probably near the Carenage, or careening place, where the first landing was made. From the Prado and Central Park the Plaza de Armas may be reached by both Obispo and O'Reilly streets, or by taking the electric tramway that crosses the parkway at Montserrate Square, the junction of both. The park contains fine parterres of flowers, laurels and royal palms, with a notable marble statue of Ferdinand VII. of Spain. Around this square still cluster the administrative buildings-if such they may be termed-as the President's Palace, west; the Senate Building, north; the Hall of Repre- sentatives, south; the Post Office, northeast, etc. East of the 80 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES square stands a small structure known as the Templete, which was erected in 1828 to commemorate the first landing of Havana's founders. It is classic in design and contains three noteworthy paintings, one of which depicts the first celebration of mass on this spot in 1519, beneath a venerable ceiba tree, a scion of which stands within the enclosure at a corner of the building. A fine portrait bust of Columbus is to be seen here, which is considered as authentic as a likeness as any that exists, and is said to have been copied by Vanderlyn for his “Landing of Columbus," now in the rotunda of the United States Capitol at Washington. Colum- bus himself did not land here, however, and the events de- scribed took place thirteen years after his death. La Fuerza, the Old Fort. The oldest structure in Havana is that known as La Fuerza, a quadrilateral fortress with bastions, and walls about seventy-five feet high, surmounted by a tower supporting the bronze figure of an Indian maiden known as “La Habana.” It was built by a Spanish engineer under direction of Ferdinand de Soto, in 1538, the year before he sailed for Florida. Here he installed his wife, Doña Isabel, in his stead as adelantado, and here she re- mained waiting his return, in the fourth year of her vigil dying of a broken heart. The old fortress took part in the several engagements with pirates and foreign invaders; it was made the treasure-house for gold and silver brought here from Mexico and Peru on the way to Spain; but now exists only as a relic of Havana's most interesting past. Suffered by the Havanese to fall into neglect, it was rescued by the Americans, who, during the period of intervention, dug out the deep moat by which it was originally surrounded, and which had become filled with filth, restored wall and drawbridge, and detached it from its environment of insig- nificant houses, so that, like Castle Punta, it can be appreci- ated at its full historic value. It is open to the public, and from its roof and tower a fine view is afforded of city and harbour. President's Palace. East of the Plaza rises the colon- naded façade of the former Governor-General's Palace, now occupied by the President of Cuba, or by whatever ruler the exigencies of Cuban politics may have placed over the people. SNS 20 SIS SSS 352 US A Hearse in Havana General Maximo Gomez and Family CUBA 81 Occupying a whole block, the palace surrounds a patio filled with tropical flowers and shrubbery, in the centre of which stands one of the many statues erected to Columbus, a portrait of whom adorns the city council's walls. The patio entrance is very impressive, and the great court is surrounded by arcades, with balconies and galleries above, while a broad marble stairway ascends to the official recep- tion rooms on the third floor, chief among which is the Throne Room, containing the "throne chair” surmounted by a gilded Spanish crown. It is emblematical now of what once was and will never be again, for here took place the transfer of authority (January 1, 1899) from Spain to the United States. Again, on May 20, 1902 (a day now cele- brated as the “Cuban Fourth of July''), the United States transferred its provisional authority to Cuba, in the person of President T. Estrada Palma, and the Cuban Republic was (as it proved, only temporarily) then established. The Cathedral. The foundations of the cathedral, which stands on Empedrado Street, were laid in 1656, but the structure was not finished until 1724, history tells us. It is Latin-Gothic in architecture, built of native limestone, which has grown dingy in the lapse of years, and so appears older than it is. Though in itself interesting, it is better known as the edifice which at one time contained the re- mains of Christopher Columbus, hence has been called the "Columbus Cathedral.” It is claimed that the bones of the great discoverer were brought here in 1795, from the island of Santo Domingo. A full discussion of this transfer, to- gether with a history of the discovery, will be found in the chapter on Santo Domingo, to which the reader is referred. When Havana was evacuated by the Spaniards, on the trans- fer of authority, in 1899, these sacred relics were taken from the depository in the cathedral and carried to Spain, where they were placed by the side of Ferdinand Columbus, in the cathedral of Seville. In the Havana Cathedral are shown a vacant niche and a pretentious pedestal, upon which once stood a monument to Columbus. The niche was at the left-hand side of the high altar, where, beneath a cenotaph once surmounted by a bust, was the following inscription: A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES “O restos e imagen del grande Colon, Mil siglos durad guardados en la urna Y en la remembranza de nuestra nacion." These lines may be paraphrased as: “O grand Columbus, In this urn enshrined A thousand centuries thy bones shall guard; A thousand ages keep thine image fresh, In token of a nation's gratitude.” But image, urna, inscription, all have vanished, and with them also the restos, or remains, which the Spaniards im- agined to be those of the great Christopher; but which were probably those of his second son, Diego. There are several fine paintings in the cathedral, including one depicting the Pope and his cardinals celebrating mass before the sailing of Columbus, which is ascribed to Murillo. The high altar is of great beauty and composed of Italian marble, while the floor immediately in front of it is in marble mosaic. Visitors are allowed to inspect the em- broidered vestments in the robing room, application for which favour should be made to the sacristano. Churches. Havana is well supplied with churches, all the old ones, of course, being of the Roman Catholic faith. The church of The Holy Angels, a fine Gothic building, is only two squares from the Prado, on Montserrate Avenue. La Merced, built in 1746, on Cuba and Merced streets, is said to be the wealthiest and most aristocratic, with fine oil paint- ings, the “Last Supper” being noteworthy. San Augustin, corner of Cuba and Amargura streets, was formerly a mon- astery, built in 1608; Santa Clara pertains to a nunnery—the wealthiest in Havana-was founded in 1644, and stands be- tween Luz (Light) and Sol (Sun) streets. Santa Catalina, on O'Reilly Street, is a convent church, built in 1698, and contains sacred relics in the remains of martyrs, which were brought from Rome. Cristo is on Villegas and Amargura streets, Santo Domingo on O'Reilly Street, and the ancient church of San Francisco de Paula (with façade of old Spanish type) stands on Paula Street, near the harbour front. One of the best preserved and most picturesque is CUBA 83 Belen, more than 200 years old, corner Luz and Compostela streets, with royal palms beside its tower, enclosed by a high wall. It has a convent-school attached, which contains a fine natural history collection illustrating the fauna and flora of the island, and a rare old library, all which are freely shown to visitors. A painting of the “Holy Family" above the high altar of the church is the work of Ribera, a Spanish artist of repute. Protestant Churches. Until the American intervention Protestant places of worship were not allowed to be con- spicuous; but the influx of Norte Americanos caused a change, for the religion of the dominant people mainly was Protestant. Episcopal church, Holy Trinity, with services in English, 107 Prado; Church of Christ, Arcade 9, Pasaje Hotel, Prado; Methodist, 10 Virtudes Street; Presbyterian, 90 Reina Street; Baptist, Dragones and Zulueta; Young Men's Christian Association, 67 Prado. Libraries, Schools, Press. The leading scientific society is the Real Academia, on Cuba Street, which publishes a bulletin and contains in its museum excellent mineralogical, anthropological, and conchological collections. The Bibli- oteca Nacional, or National Library, corner Calle Chacon and Maestranza, is open every day in the week from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. Its library contains about 20,000 volumes, and is rich in rare old books, dating as far back as the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, among them a Las Casas, printed in 1552, and Benzoni's History of the New World, 1565. The Library of the Sociedad Economica, 62 Dragones Street, is also open to the public. The University of Havana, founded in 1728, in the convent of Santo Domingo, back of the President's Palace (between O'Reilly and Obispo streets), was at one time very famous, and had as many as 2,000 students. It has recently been re- moved to the Pirotecnica Militar, a large structure formerly occupied by the Spaniards as barracks, on a high hill to the west of the city, near the Castillo del Principe. Both his- torically and architecturally interesting, the old convent of Santo Domingo, formerly the home of the university, is worthy of inspection and should be visited While Havana formerly possessed very fair schools of the 84 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Spanish type, and colleges of varied resources, it received a great and real impetus when the United States Govern- ment of intervention took hold of its antiquated system and rejuvenated it by an expenditure of not less than $10,000,000. The American public-school system was founded on a solid basis, attendance made compulsory in the primary depart- ments, and buildings formerly used for military purposes were converted into colleges and academies. The American Government did for Cuba, in fact, far more than it ever did for its own people. It erected an Academy of Sciences, cost of building, $38,000; founded a School of Arts and Trades, $250,000; and in 1900 sent to the United States for the pur- pose of normal instruction 1,000 Cuban teachers, with 200 more in 1901. Every department of literature has had its exponent in Havana, from science to sports, while daily newspapers are relatively numerous. All were printed in Spanish until re- cently, the leading daily being La Lucha, the weekly illus- trator of art and the drama El Figaro. A “long-felt want” of English-speaking residents and visitors has been "filled" by the publication of the Havana Post, a daily newspaper of admirable spirit and enterprise, which should be con- sulted by all new arrivals for information which this Guide may lack. Clubs, Recreations. One of the finest buildings in Havana before the American occupation was that of the Spanish Casino (Casino Español), on the Prado, which has a membership of about 3,000, possesses a fine collection of paintings, supports a free academy of languages, and an- nually gives a splendid masquerade ball, at which the élite of the city are to be found. The Club Centro Asturiano, which was established for the benefit of Spanish Asturians, has a membership of 10,000, which shows how numerous they are as a class in Havana. Their club-house, opposite Central Park, on Zulueta Street, is valued at $300,000, contains a ballroom which cost to fit up $35,000, and a library of 5,000 volumes. The object of the club is mutual instruction, medical assistance to members, recreation, sport. The Centro Dependientes, or Business Clerks' Club, has CUBA aims in view similar to those of the Asturianos, with a mem. bership of 12,000, and occupies a fine marble club-house north of Central Park, on the Prado. It maintains a sanitarium in the suburbs for members. Other clubs of less note are the German Club and the American Club, on Central Park, and the Union, on Zulueta Street. Havana is essentially a place for clubs to flourish, with its lack of home life, diversions for the young, etc. The Young Men's Christian Association has already become a permanent feature of Havana life and is gaining rapidly in membership and wealth. Ex-President Palma was the first Cuban to pay a membership fee, and several high government officials followed his example. As in the City of Mexico and other Spanish-speaking places, the Association furnishes recreation as well as instruction to many young men who would otherwise have no healthful amusement at all. Its secretary in Havana, by whose unwearied efforts its suc- cessful formulation was assured, is Mr. J. E. Hubbard. Here and at Camp Columbia, in Havana's suburb, where the American soldiers are encamped, moral examples are fur- nished the natives of what Los Americanos can do in the matter of discipline, hygiene, and physical training. The chief recreations of the Havanese in the old Spanish days were bull- and cock-fighting ; but these have been sup- pressed by law, and if the latter is indulged in it must be clandestinely. Baseball is played with enthusiasm, especially on Sunday afternoons, the two leading clubs being the Havana and the Almendares, the latter meeting on the Paseo de Tacon, opposite the Botanic Gardens, and the for- mer at the suburb of Vedado. Jai Alai, or Juego de Pelota. An athletic game, which has degenerated into a gambling curse, is that of the Basques, known by them as Pelota. It is played by professionals in the great court, 175 feet long by 36 wide, at the corner of Oquendo and Concordia streets, and known as the Frontón. It is so popular that thousands of spectators assemble to witness it, and the players (who perform three times a week in the winter, on Tuesday and Thursday evenings and Sunday afternoon) receive from $3,000 to $5,000 each as salaries for the season. Its athletic feature is lost sight of 86 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES entirely in the rage for betting which takes possession of the spectators, and which has been pronounced by a Cuban senator as a greater curse than bull-fighting. Strange to say, the stock company owning the concession for running the games was promoted by the former military governor, Gen- eral Wood, whose arduous labours in behalf of Cuba many consider negatived by this single act. Jai Alai is extremely popular, however, and has superseded cock-fighting and bull- baiting, which were brutal as well as degrading. For a de- scription of the game see any cyclopædia, under the article “Pelota." Tickets of admission $1, $1.50, $2; boxes for six, $10; at hotels. Theatres. Havana has several theatres, some of large capacity, as the Payret, on Prado, near Central Park; Albisu, San Rafael and Zulueta; Cuba, on Neptuno Street; Alham- bra, on Virtudes and Consulado streets; Marti, Dragones and Zulueta; Chinese, on Zanja Street. Largest and most celebrated of all is the National, formerly the Tacon, capable of seating 3,000, and called the third largest in the world. It was built seventy years ago, at a cost of $500,000, and all the great singers and actors have appeared here at one time or another, for the Havanese have the reputation of richly rewarding their favourites. Streets and Houses. As for its architecture, in a word, Havana is as thoroughly Spanish as Madrid, Seville, or Cadiz. Its houses are of massive construction, built of lime- stone or mamposteria, with immensely thick walls, lofty ceilings, without glass in their windows, and no chimneys in the roofs, which are flat and afford fine promenades. They are built around an inner court, or patio, which is frequently adorned with plants, flowers, cages of singing birds, perhaps a fountain. On this floor are the kitchen, stables, and offices of the owner (if he be in trade), while above are the sleep- ing apartments, to which access is had by means of stone staircases guarded by ornamental balustrades. One great doorway and a few windows open on the street, the latter defended by iron grillwork, which is sometimes extremely ornate. Through these open windows one may see much of the family life, for the Havanese by no means shrink from public gaze, and so long as one does not address the CUBA occupants of the dwellings he transgresses none of the pro- prieties. In the old days the windows of some streets of a night would be filled with fair but frail women, who did not hesitate to reach forth their hands to arrest passers-by of the other sex; but now the decencies are better observed at least in the streets frequented by respectability. Spanish customs as well as Spanish architecture may be studied here, and as correctly portrayed as in old Spain itself. For the best specimens of architecture go to the old churches and convents; for the finest mansions to the Prado, Tacon Paseo and the suburb of Jesus del Monte; but they are scattered throughout the city, for the Hispano-Cubano's house is his castle, impregnable and unassailable, and he cares not where it is planted. It may be surrounded by abominable filth, but he appears serenely unconscious of an environment that would offend any nationality not accus- tomed to centuries of squalor and malodorous neighbours. The Americans during their short stay in the island worked wonders for Havana and Santiago, as well as for Cuba in general, and the Cubans are yet resentful because they were compelled to clean up their filthy cities, observe sanitary precautions and co-operate with them toward the extinction of disease and plague-spots. Yellow fever, which had been a resident in Havana and Santiago for centuries, was well- nigh stamped out; but this great work is too well known to be more than mentioned here. The chief cities of Cuba, which had been regarded as pest-holes to be shunned by sailors and travellers, were rendered healthful places of residence. One of the interesting sights in these cities is the gathering of the Cuban "White Wings" (as the street clean- ers are called) for their daily onslaught upon the accumu- lated filth, and one of the most beneficial of measures has been the establishment of a competent sanitary squad for the disinfection of dwellings, slaughter-houses, etc., which' until the advent of the Americans had not been disturbed since the founding of Havana. Shopping District. Owing to its direct interests with Spain, Havana possesses many Spanish curios, such as jewelry, fans (costing from a few cents up to more than $100), mantillas (which the Cuban and Spanish ladies wear 88 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES so gracefully making calls and at morning mass), old coins, hand-made laces, embroideries—all which are very cheap and of excellent quality, etc. Such native products as canes of precious woods-ebony, mahogany, royal palm-manatee hide and sharks' backbones, hats of braided palm-leaves, cigars, cigarettes, featherwork (imported from Mexico), shell and coral ornaments, pink pearls, guava jelly, preserves and marmalades of native fruits, pocket-books and belts of snake skin, and sometimes the skin of the snake itself—a boa constrictor, attaining a length of twelve to sixteen feet-may be found on sale in the shopping district and the markets. Obispo and O'Reilly Streets. The best streets for shop- ping are Calles Obispo and O'Reilly, which are convenient of access, leading from the Central Park to the Plaza de Armas. They are so narrow that carriages are allowed to go through them in only one direction, and overhung with signs and awnings to such an extent that there is always a shade, even at midday. One might fancy himself passing through an Oriental bazaar, so varied and attractive are the goods dis- played outside the doors, and so thoroughly Spanish the architecture. These streets, as, indeed, all those of Havana, have been made clean and habitable by the energetic Ameri- cans, who have repaved them with modern material, so that shopping in this section is now a pleasure. There is also a large arcade on Montserrate Square, where Spanish and native goods are offered for sale in great variety. Markets—Street Vendors. Of the three principal markets in the city, Tacon is the largest, Cristina the oldest, and Colon the newest. All are worth visiting, as here we find gathered the fruits, vegetables, and native products of the island. Cold storage was formerly a thing unknown in Cuba, and the day's marketing is done in the cool of the morning. Tacon market is situated near Columbus Square, and a visit to it will suffice, if time is pressing, for obtaining an im- pression of Cuba's natural productions. Aside from the markets, there are the street vendors, who perambulate the streets, as the lechero, or milkman, who carries a very poor quality of milk in battered cans packed in panniers, on horse- back, himself astride between the cans. Formerly fresh milk CUBA was obtained from cows driven through the streets and halted at the doors, where it was drawn on the spot; but this practice has been discontinued, as one of the sanitary precautions of Los Americanos. The baker vends his prod- uct from horseback also, and likewise sits astride between the loaves, piled high above his head, which are not im- proved by contact with his soiled shirt and pantaloons. The street peddlers of shoes, laces, and every kind of small ware are almost innumerable, vociferous, and persistent. The always open windows and doorways give them great opportunities, which they do not fail to improve, to the great inconvenience of the housewife. Stacks of fodder may be seen of a morning moving through the streets leading marketward, without any apparent means of progression at first sight, but which on examination reveal, beneath, the head and tail of a diminutive donkey. Panniers of fowl also are borne horse- and donkey-back, as well as bunches of them tied together and hung head downward from the saddle, in which manner live pigs are taken to market, and, in fact, all small “live stock” that is produced on the farm in the suburbs. Agory spectacle of former times was the butcher on horseback, seated beneath a framework upon which were suspended quarters of beef and bleeding car- cases, proceeding from the slaughter-house to market. Leading Hotels. HAVANA E Rate A Rate Sevilla .......$2.50 up Inglaterra 2.50 up Miramar .. • 5.00 up Plaza 2.50 up $5.00 up Pasaje .......... 2.00 up Telegrafo 2.00 up Compoamor 5.00 3.50 up Trotcha .......... 3.00 up Peria de Cuba.... 2.50 up El Louvre....... 2.00 up Gran America. ...................... 1.50 up 2.50 up Cafés, Restaurants, etc. Havana, like every large town and city in Cuba, is a place of restaurants and cafés, some of which, especially on the Central Square and Prado, are l a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ar ........................... ............................. 2.50 ....................... r ............. 2.00 Florida . ............ ......... 1.00 U ! 90 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES elegant establishments, with lofty ceilings, tiled marble floors, marble-topped tables, and always open to view from the street. It is the custom for the Havanese to assemble in the cafés, the men for coffee and rolls in the morning, men and women for refreshing drinks, cakes, and ices in the evening. Cuban coffee is always made from a well-burned bean and served with hot salted milk, the waiter carrying a pot of milk in one hand and of coffee in the other. In the matter of refrescos, or refreshing beverages, the Cubans surpass all other islanders except perhaps the Porto Ricans. They concoct beverages that are perfectly delicious from native fruits, such as garapina, from the fermented skins of pineapples; naranjada, or orangeade; orchata, or milk of almonds; guanábana, or sour-sop drink; ensalada, which literally is salad, a mixture of all sorts, with as great a variety as the most elaborate mint julep. A delicious morning beverage is fresh cocoa water drawn from the nut à la Créole, but the most popular "soft drink" with ladies and children is azucarillo (sugar-water) or panal. A roll made of sugar and the white of an egg, like a big and hollow stick of candy, is dissolved in a glass of water, and this is the favourite refresco. Another is pina, or pineapple, crushed with ice and sugar; still another limonada, or lemonade, plain, or flavoured with cinnamon. All these beverages are wholesome, if not drunk to excess, and everybody in the middle and higher classes partakes of them, preferably afternoon and evening, sitting inside or outside the cafés, while watching the throngs on the Prado and Central Park and listening to choice music by the popular municipal band. Helados, ices, and mantecados, or ice-creams, are abundant here, and delicious, some of the restaurants mak- ing them a specialty. The hotels have been already re- ferred to. The best of them are cleanly, high-priced, com- modious, well and conveniently situated. They are for the most part furnished in the Spanish style, with bare walls, tiled floors, rugs instead of carpets, and the bedrooms espe- cially meagrely equipped in a fashion that would satisfy the heart of an anchorite. The bed is usually a cot, with or without a very thin mattress, from which only an adept can keep the sheets from sliding off, and canopied with mosquito CUBA 91 netting. The ordinary hotel in Havana is noted for the lack of those conveniences which are considered indis- pensable in Northern countries; but the best are as thor- oughly equipped with modern devices as the most exacting traveller demands. Restaurants are numerous, with prices higher than for the same service in the United States and England, except for certain dining-rooms run on the "American plan," and a very good, though cheap, "hash house” kept by “Chinese John,” not far from the Prado. Botanical Garden. With more than 3,000 native plants in Cuba's flora, the formation of a botanical garden meant only the collecting together of tropical trees, ferns, shrubs, etc., in some convenient place. This has been done at the Botanical Garden, on the Paseo de Carlos III., to reach which take the Principe street cars, which also take one to the Quinta de los Molinos, or Summer Palace of the Presi- dent, which stands amid gardens of its own, adjoining. The Botanical Garden contains, besides a magnificent collection of tropical trees and shrubs, miniature cascades, artificial grottoes, winding paths, broad avenues palm-enclosed, etc. These two attractions should by no means be left out of the itinerary. The Paseo of Carlos III. is so called from a statue of that monarch, by Canova, which adorns it. Another paseo, or pleasure-drive, with macadamized surface and a shaded promenade on each side, is the Paseo de Tacon, which was built by the Governor-General of that name to connect the Quinta with the city, and, like that of Carlos III., is a favourite drive afternoons and evenings. Cigar Factories. Havana was once noted for the num- ber of its cigar and tobacco factories, and now, since the "combine” came to power, it is more than ever noted for the number of cigars-probably an annual output of 90,000,- 000, and twice as many cigarettes—which it sends abroad to be consumed. The main office of the great factories is at 10 Zulueta Street, where permits for inspection may be obtained. The various stages of the process of converting the crude leaf into finished "smokes” may be watched here without exciting comment, as the workmen are accustomed 92 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES to visitors. After the tour of the building its roof should be visited for the magnificent view there offered over the city. Suburbs of Havana. Almost peerless as to situation, Havana possesses some very interesting suburbs, and offers attractive excursions to various points, for the electric lines now reach 30 to 40 miles into the country. Formerly sur- rounded by a high city wall, of which only fragments are now to be seen here and there (as at Montserrate Street near Teniente Rey and Refugio streets), modern Havana has greatly expanded within a few years past. It contains a population of nearly 300,000, and certain sections of it are said to be more densely packed with people than any other city in the New World. The most prominent objects near the city are the forts by which it is surrounded, built at various periods of its history. Nearest to its centre is the Castle of Atares, superbly set upon a circular hill command- ing both city and harbour. It was built shortly after the British evacuation in 1763. Here, in 1851, young Crittenden and fifty of his companions were confined as prisoners, and for their part in the Lopez filibustering expedition were shot to death on the eastern glacis overlooking the harbour. This event is ignored by the Cubans, who have, however, perpetuated the names of Cuban patriots of a later period by means of immense letters made with cannon-balls on the slope facing the city. Atares, which is reached by tramway, fare 5 cents, is now used as a jail. To the same ignoble use has been put the Castillo del Principe, which crowns a high hill to the west of the city, the view from which, as also from Atares, is magnificent. It is reached by the El Principe tram-cars, and for another fortification, the most westerly of all, the Santa Clara, take the cars to the Vedado. Santa Clara was constructed in 1797. On the right of the car-line to the Vedado stood an old battery called the Chorrera, which was taken by the British in 1762, assisted by the Colonials under General Israel Putnam—the "Old Put” of Revolutionary history. Morro Castle and Cabañas. Take any electric car, or car- riage, to boat-landing in the harbour, whence the fare is 10 cents, same for return. The Morro is a sixteenth century CUBA 93 fortress, perched upon a headland commanding Havana harbour, from 100 to 120 feet above the waves, which have hollowed the rock beneath into huge caverns. It is sur- rounded on the landward side by a moat 70 feet in depth, crossing which, over a drawbridge, we find ourselves at the sallyport. Gloomy casemates surround the open central space, and descending a ramp leading toward the sea we penetrate to the dungeons. Some of them are immediately over the water, and from one portion of the wall there is a steep chute through which, it is said, the bodies of Cuban prisoners, living as well as dead, were shot into the depths, to what is called the nido de tiburones, or sharks' nest, down below. In the eastern wall a tablet is set, in memory of Captain Velasco, who was killed in the British attack upon the Morro, 1762. Down by the water's edge is the battery of the “Twelve Apostles,” composed of larger guns than any in the fort, which are neither ancient nor of great calibre. The seaward-facing platform of the fortress supports a lighthouse, built in 1844, and a well-equipped signal-station with semaphore and flags. The view from the ramparts is grand, comprising not only a wide sweep of the open Gulf, but an extensive landscape including the country around Havana, which the Morro overlooks. Hewn partly from the living rock, the Morro appears as solid as the promontory on which it is set, and in the old days was considered im- pregnable. It was, however, taken by the British in July, 1762, after a six weeks' siege and the loss of nearly 2,000 men. At that time the walls were mined, and through the great gap formed by an explosion of gunpowder, the Brit- ish stormed the fort and took it, but not before many men had fallen, including the gallant commander, Velasco. As already mentioned in our historical sketch, Colonial troops from North America took part in this siege and as- sault. The Morro's guns were turned upon the city, and its capitulation quickly brought about, though a landing of British forces had been made at Chorrera, on the Vedado road, westward from Havana. A vast amount of spoil fell to the captors, including 300 cannon, 9 warships, etc., to the amount of nearly $4,000,000. 94 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES After the departure of the British, in 1763, the Spaniards began work upon the extensive series of fortifications crown- ing the hill opposite Havana, across the harbour, called by them and still known as Cabañas. A massive and contin- uous wall there confronts the harbour, but the principal en- trance is on the landward side, where there is a drawbridge, above which is a gateway surmounted by the sculptured arms of Spain, and an inscription stating that this vast work was begun in 1763 and completed in 1774, during the reign of Carlos III. It is a tradition that when the king was told of its cost, $14,000,000, he went to a window of his palace and gazed intently toward the west, saying that in his opin- ion, after the expenditure of such a vast sum, the walls should be high enough to be visible from Spain. Its magnitude is undeniable, for it is quite a mile in length and goo feet in breadth, so that a complete tour of the Ca- bañas is somewhat fatiguing. The entrance-way used in coming from Havana is long and steep, on a hot day ex- tremely hard to climb. On the right of this roadway is the “Laurel Moat,” so called on account of the laurel trees growing here, where Cuban patriots were shot by Spanish soldiers. A bronze tablet marks the place—a beautiful memorial—where these atrocities were committed in cold blood by those who should have been friends, but were for years implacable enemies. This is but one spot of many which the Cubans have marked to denote the unspeakable deeds of Spaniards in their island. Inside the Cabañas are cells and dungeons—the guides will show them—where not only native Cubans, but American filibusteros, were kept incomunicado-hidden from friends and countrymen—until taken out and shot, for the crime of attempting to assist in the expulsion of the Spanish oppressors from Cuba. A memorial which the Spaniards themselves established of their cruelty is seen across the harbour, in star-shaped Castle Atares, where Crittenden and those fifty Americans were shot. The view from Cabañas embraces harbor and city, with much of the palm-dotted country beyond. Up to March, 1912, the most interesting object within the rision was the wreck of the unfortunate American warship, CUBA 95 the Maine, which was destroyed in the harbor on Feb- ruary 15, 1898. “Remember the Maine" became the war-cry that sounded the death-knell of Spanish rule in Cuba; and though the author, or authors, of that dastardly deed were shielded by high authorities, and have never been proclaimed, the memory of it will live for centuries. In brief: on the night of February 15, 1908, the Maine, at anchor off the Machina wharf, Havana, at a buoy to which she was assigned by the Spanish authorities, was blown up by a mine or tor- pedo, officially proven to have been exploded from the outside. Of her crew of 328, a total number of 267 were killed, and the battleship, valued at $5,000,000, was sent to the bottom of the harbour. Various projects were considered for raising the wreck, a menace to navigation, but no action was taken until 1910, when the work was undertaken, by authority of Con- gress, by engineering officers of the United States army, under the direction of Colonel William M. Black, Corps of Engineers. A coffer-dam of sheet-iron piling was built around the wreck; the water was then pumped out and the ship left in a condition which enabled it to be removed. It was necessary, however, to saw off the least damaged part of the ship and enclose it with a bulkhead, so that it would float. The other portions were removed piecemeal. On March 19 the portion floated was removed, and under convoy of United States battleships and representatives of the Cuban Gov- ernment, was buried in deep water outside the harbor. Colon Cemetery. The bodies of the sailors recovered from the wreck of the Maine were taken to the Colon cemetery, which is on a noble hill in the outskirts of Havana, west. It is one of the finest cemeteries in America, so far as its monuments are concerned, containing several notable examples of the sculptor's art. At the entrance is a granite archway surmounted by a group of heroic figures of which Columbus—after whom the cemetery is named- is the most conspicuous, and beneath this a sculptured panel representing the Crucifixion. The notable monuments here are: First, the Students' Memorial marble, a draped shaft, with statues symbolical of Justice and History at the base, and with a winged Innocence emerging from a doorway holáing a tablet inscribed Immunis-"Guiltless.” It is at 96 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the left hand, within the cemetery a little ways, and com- memorates the students of the Havana University who were massacred by the Spanish volunteers in 1871. At the right of the central avenue stands the Firemen's Monument, 75 feet high, elaborately sculptured, with statues at the four corners of the pedestal, and a winged angel surmounting the shaft. The chapel in which prayers are said for the repose of the dead is just beyond, near which, to the right, is the plot in which the Maine victims were interred in 1898, but which have since been removed to Arlington Cemetery, near Washington. Several Cuban patriots are buried here, as General Calixto Garcia, who died in Washington in 1899, and General Maximo Gomez, who, though born in Santo Domingo, did more for the cause of Cuban freedom than any native of the island to which he devoted the best years of his life. He died in Havana, in 1905, at the age of sixty-nine. The Colon, being a modern cemetery, does not display those rows of columbaria, or "pigeonholes," so common in Spanish burial-places; but these may be found in the old Espada cemetery, in the rear of the leper hospital of San Lazaro. There the custom has prevailed of renting the tombs, or "pigeonholes," for a term of years, at the termination of which the remains are pitched into the osario, or charnel- pit, where the bones were piled up by the thousand. Colon cemetery is reached by the Universidad-Aduana line of cars, fare 5 cents, or by carriage through Paseo de Tacon, fare $1.50, and return $2.50. The cars are preferable. Jesus del Monte is in some sense a suburb of Havana, though lying quite near the city's heart. Here are some of the finest residences, and some of the best views (from the church of Guadalupe), as the hill here is 220 feet in height. It is reached by the Jesus del Monte cars. Another hill, the eminence, in fact, being known as Cerro (Hill), offers attractive views and typical dwellings of the better class, with a good road leading hither, traversed by the Cerro cars. Chorrera and Vedado. One of the favourite rides from Havana is that along the north coast near the sea, to Vedado, or Residence Park, with its fine dwellings, gardens, n- re ISO TO In the Vuelta Abajo Region . 22 09 38 INNESS A Patio. Cuban Residence CUBA 97 coral cliffs, and bathing-pools excavated from the solid rock. Near here is the mouth of the picturesque Almandares River, boat-excursions on which, offering tropical scenery along the banks, overhung with bamboos, palms, and silk- cotton trees, are delightful experiences. An excellent cal- zada, or boulevard, leads thither. Carriage drive, $1; re- turn, $1.50. Fare by Vedado cars 5 cents; time, ten minutes. Marianao and Playa. Marianao, on a ridge 10 miles from Havana, is known as the “cleanest and most attractive town in Cuba," and is filled with handsome villas occupied in the summer season by Havana's first families. One may reach it by connecting with the Vedado electrics, or by train over the Marianao Railway. Schedule : WEEK DAYS Concha Station (Havana) to Marianao Every half hour from 6 to 11 A.M. and 4 to 10 P.M. Every hour from II A.M. to 4 P.M. Last train, II P.M. Concha Station (Havana) to the Playa (Marianao Beach) Every hour from 6 A.M. to 9 P.M., except 7 and 11 A.M. and 1, 3 and 7 P.M. Marianao to Concha Station (Havana) First train, 5 A.M. Every half hour from 6 to II A.M. and from 4 to 10 P.M. Every hour from II A.M. to 4 P.M. Playa (Marianao Beach) to Marianao and Concha Station (Havana) Every hour from 5.45 A.M. to 9.45 P.M., except 7.45 and 11.45 A.M. and 1.45, 3.45 and 7.45 P.M. SUNDAYS Trains every half hour to and from Marianao and every hour to and from the Playa (Marianao Beach). Last train (to Marianao only), 12 P.M. FARES-Spanish Silver Ist class 2d class Havana (Concha Station) to Marianao: Single trip....... ....... $0.20 $0.10 Round trip....... 40 Havana (Concha Station) to the Playa (Marianao Beach): Single trip.... Round trip............. 98 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES - Marianao Playa, or Beach, is the fashionable bathing- resort of Havana, headquarters of the local yacht club, just the place for a “midwinter dip,” and 2 miles distant from the town. The branch railway to this place ends at Hoyo Colorado, taking one through the richest of pineapple and tobacco plantations. A trip usually taken in this connection is that to the Toledo ingenio, or sugar-factory, which, with its improved machinery, vast building, and facilities for converting the raw product into the saccharine crystals, should by all means be visited. Ingenio de Toledo lies about 3 miles from the Marianao station, and permission to visit it must be obtained at the hotel, or from some business house of repute. On the way to Marianao by train the fine suburbs of Tulipan, Cerro, Ceiba, Buenavista, and Quemados, are passed. In going to Vedado by the electrics, an ancient relic of im- portance to be observed is the Torreón de la Chorrera, a fortaleza built in 1646, sometimes called the “Buccaneer's Fort,” from the fact that it was intended for defence against the corsairs of the Caribbean. It was taken by the English in 1762, before they advanced upon Havana.. The drives around Havana are excellent, and automobiles may be hired for extended rides over the smooth calzadas or macadamized highways, many miles in extent, bordered by glorious royal palms. One of the favourites is the road from Cerro to San Cristobal, 70 miles; another from Jesus del Monte to Guines, 40 miles. Regla and Guanabacoa. East of Havana, across the har- bour, and connected with the city by a ferry from Luz wharf, lies Regla, anciently notorious as a resort of pirates and buccaneers, but at present possessing little interest to the tourist, save as the entranceway to another and finer settlement, that of Guanabacoa, celebrated for its mineral springs, and at one time a fashionable watering-place. Its old churches contain adored shrines, and one of them, that of Potosi, outside the city, holds a “miracle-working image," resorted to annually by thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Cuba. From the hills about Guanabacoa wide- extended views offer of Havana, its harbour, and the coun- CUBA 99 try contiguous. Aliquid bitumen is found among these hills, which is said to have been discovered by Ocampo, when he circumnavigated Cuba, 1508, and who (like Sir Walter Raleigh at Trinidad, ninety years later) used this “natural pitch” to fill the seams of his leaking ships. Omni- buses run from town to Cojimar, a fine bathing-beach on the north shore, guarded by a quaint old fort, known as the “Little Morro,” which was taken by the English, 1762, when they landed, previous to their assault upon Morro Castle and the capital. The United Railways of Havana. Some of the best ex- cursions from the capital can be made over the United Railways of Havana, an extensive and magnificent system, the oldest in Cuba, and one of the oldest in America, having been first opened in 1837. Its great station, the Villanueva, is the most accessible also, being right in the heart of the city, near the Parque de Colon and the “India” statue. Its western branch running to Guanajay, and soon to be ex- tended to Bahia Honda, traverses a typically picturesque country, passing through a rich tobacco region, dotted with royal palms, and one of the most highly cultivated sections of the island. A ride over this branch only will give one a good conception of Cuba's great agricultural resources and typical scenery; nor is it necessary to take the long and dusty journey to the Vuelta Abajo region to find tobacco growing on its native heath and to study the processes of its culture and preparation. All this may be done by taking the trip to Guanajay, starting on which early in the morning, one soon reaches the open country outside Havana. Nine miles out the station of Vento is reached, where are the springs, 400 in number, which supply pure water for Havana, enclosed within a wall of masonry 60 feet high. Hence the water is conducted to the city, first through a siphon under the Almandares River, then by means of an underground aqueduct to the Palatino Reservoir, near Cerro. In the time before this system was installed all the drinking water of Havana passed through an open ditch, the Zanja, a glimpse of which as we pass it on the train is enough to cause a shudder of horror, for it is and always was filled with filth unspeakable. 100 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Next to the Vento in interest comes San Antonio de los Baños, 23 miles from Havana, with its wonderful “dis- appearing river,” which flows at intervals underground, and through a cave adorned with remarkable stalagmites and stalactites. It is also remarkable for its blind fish, which have been made the subject of scientific investigation by naturalists. Guanajay and Mariel, the one an inland town and the other a picturesque port, are reached by this railway, the former distant 36 miles from Havana. It is in the centre of a rich tobacco region, a rolling country dotted with royal palms, with broad acres of tobacco plants in various stages of growth, and immense tobacco barns with palm-thatched roofs. The town itself is not interesting, except that it is thoroughly Cuban and typical, the junction-place of several calzadas, one of which leads to Mariel, a natural but little- used port with picturesque shores. The railroad is projected to Bahia Honda, a deep-water port which was often made the landing-place of filibustering expeditions in aid of the Cuban insurgents, and which is now utilised by the United States as a coaling station. South to Batabano. Batabano, the "Little Venice" of Cuba, a town on stilts, with canals for streets, and occupied by about 6,500 inhabitants, mainly spongers and fishermen, is on the south coast of Cuba, distant by railway 36 miles from Havana. In an hour and a half one may travel right across the island from north to south and find himself on a swampy shore of the Caribbean Sea. To be exact, how- ever, it must be said that the Gulf of Batabano and the archipelago of Los Canarios intervene. Batabano was the original Havana, it is said, the first settlers of which re- moved to the more eligible location in 1519. It is pretty, but not alluring, being visited by travellers mainly for convenience in getting to points elsewhere along the south coast and to the famous Isle of Pines. A delightful sea trip from Batabano can be made upon the steamers of the Vuelta Abajo Steamship Company, which leave Batabano every Monday and Thursday for Coloma, Punta de Cartas, Bailen and Cortes, in the famous tobacco-growing district of Vuelta Abajo, province of Pinar del Rio. CUBA 101 The Isle of Pines. On Sunday and Thursday a snug little boat departs for the Isle of Pines, 60 miles south. This beautiful island is separated from Batabano by an ever- tranquil gulf, to sail the waters of which is most fascinat- ing. It is 30 by 40 miles in extent, contains 800,000 acres, one-fourth of which is low and swampy, the re- mainder high and mountainous. It has rich valleys, swift- running and partially navigable streams, and mineral springs that have been famous for their curative properties for centuries. While the island is entirely within the tropics, far below the frost line, and contains mahogany, ebony: palms, and other tropical trees, it is celebrated for the pine trees, which bestow its distinctive name. The soil, in the main, is rather thin, but there are fertile tracts, which, soon after the expulsion of the Spaniards, were purchased by Americans for the purpose of forming a colony. Given to understand by the United States Government that the island would become an American possession, they expended large sums of money in its development, only to be disap- pointed by the confirmation of Cuba's title to its ownership. But they had proceeded too far to recede, and the outcome has been that American enterprise has regenerated the island, directed attention to its resources, and opened up its possi- bilities. There are quarries of valuable marble in the Cerro de los Cristales, or Crystal Hills, which are covered with forests of valuable woods, and the climate, though hot, is salubrious. The chief town and port is Nueva Gerona, on a river, 17 miles inland from which is Santa Fé, reached by good roads, with its famous mineral springs, the medicinal water from which is shipped to Havana, where it is extensively used. Capital has been enlisted for the erection of modern bathing establishments here, and the time is not far distant when these magnesia springs will be resorted to by invalids from all parts of America. There is a hotel at Santa Fé. Wild game abounds throughout the island, and in the waters adjacent are found vast numbers of tropical fish, turtle, etc. The swamps of the southern part abound in alligators, and in former times the lagoons afforded hiding-places for pirates, who lay in wait here for the treasure-galleons. It is said 102 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES that there are more sunken wrecks of treasure-ships in the waters around the Isle of Pines than in any other equal area of sea or ocean anywhere in the world. The island was dis- covered by Columbus and by him called Evangelista, its modern name being derived from its pine trees, which, ac- cording to Humboldt, grow here at a lower level than else- where in the tropics. Pinar del Rio Region. The western end of Cuba is known as the Pinar del Rio Province, the backbone of which is a range of hills parallel to both coasts, known as the Sierra de los Organos, or Organ Mountains. The south- western end of the province is a rough but fascinating coun- try, for years the stronghold of insurgents, with ports so isolated that they were visited only by filibusters, and in the olden times by buccaneers. The crest of the central moun- tains forms a watershed 2,000 to 2,500 feet above the sea, from which run many rivers, and the land slopes gently to either coast. Vuelta Abajo. The southern slopes of the Organos form the celebrated Vuelta Abajo country, the region par excellence for the growing of choicest tobacco, where soil, sunshine and climate unite to produce the exquisite Vuelta Abajo leaf, which has never been equalled in any other part of the world. Over the Western Railway. The Western Railway of Cuba, which leaves Havana at the Cristina Station, not far from Atares Castle, gives access to all the western coun- try, and offers special inducements for immigrants, or home-seekers, and tourists. For parties of ten first-class passengers the company will attach a private car to the rear of the passenger train leaving Havana at 7 A.M., which may be reserved during the day for the grand round trip, Havana to Pinar del Rio and return, allowing about two hours at the latter place, reaching Havana again at 6 P.M. The scenery along this route is highly pleasing, its special feature being tropical products, among which tobacco and coffee, palms and fruit trees, predominate. At Artemisa we are reminded of the former Spanish occupation by remains of the famous trocha, or military line of forts and intrench- ments, which the Spaniards constructed across the island CUBA 103 at this point, to keep the insurgents from ranging it at will. They did not succeed very well, but some of the severest fights between the combatants occurred in the Pinar del Rio Province, and, through the inhumanities of Weyler, thou- sands of non-combatants, innocent women and children perished in the places where he held them concentrado. At Candelaria, about half-way the journey, glimpses are ob- tained of the picturesque hill-range known as the Sierra de los Organos, at the foot of which is a fine coffee region. In the hills between Candelaria and San Cristobal was a famous patriot stronghold, called Cascarajicara. To the north of Paso Rcal lie the famous inedicinal springs of San Diego de los Baños, the waters of which are of great curative efficacy in several diseases. An electric tramway connects San Diego with the railway. The vegetation all along the line is rich, but in the western district it is peculiar, owing to the abundance of the wonderful “barrel palms,” the bulg- ing trunks of which are used for the purpose their name would indicate. The station of Herradura is in the centre of a new syndi- cate colony, which has acquired some 20,000 acres, to be devoted to the raising of fruits and vegetables. In this district the pine trees are very numerous, constituting great forests. About 107 miles from Havana, the capital of the province, the city of Pinar del Rio is reached, which is situated in the heart of the Vuelta Abajo district, the product of which has made it very famous. Here is grown the finest tobacco in the world, the leaves of which have made the reputation and fortunes of many cultivators as well as manufacturers. While the town itself is interesting, if one's stay must be short it should be devoted to a trip to some of the tobacco farms in the Vegas, which abound on every side. There is a good hotel here, the “Ricardo,” and the drives about the country offer varied prospects of hills, valleys, and moun- tains. Not only all about Pinar del Rio are the Vegas dedi- cated to tobacco culture, but beyond, as far as the railway is at present constructed, a distance of more than 200 kilo- metres from Havana. Eventually it will probably reach Guadiana Bay, near the extreme western tip of the island. 104 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Up Trains-PASSENGER Dis- tance. Kilo- metres A.M. A.M. P.M. II 13 15 Passenger Tariff American FROM HAVANA Currency TO IST STATION 1A.M. P.M. P.M. 3d 7.00 9.00 4.30 7.00 $0 18 $o 4.33 4.45 4.54 7.03 7.14 7.21 7.04 7.16 7.25 7.31 7.37 7.44 7.50 8.05 5.01 9.03 9.14 9.21 9.25 9.30 9.36 9.41 9.54 10.03 10.10 7.25 7.30 5.08 5.18 5.23 7.36 7.41 7.54 5.37 5.47 8.03 95 I 10 I 19 44 5.56 8.10 6.07 SPECIMEN TIME TABLE, WESTERN RAILWAY Ιο Cristina.... Calzada de Jesus del Monte.... Pinos.... Arroyo Naranjo.. Calabazar.. ...... Rancho Boyeros.. Santiago ...... Rincon....... Salud .. Gabriel... Guira..... Alquizar ........ Dagame.... Canas...... Artemisa...... Mangas....... Punta Brava.. Candelaria .... San Cristobal. Taco-Taco .... Palacios....... Paso Real......... Herradura.... Consolacion... Puerta de Golf Las Ovas..... Pinar del Rio. Pinar del Rio.. San Luis.... San Juan ........ Pinos...... Arroyo Naranjo.: Calabazar..... Rancho Boyeros... Santiago .. Rincon ... Salud...... Gabriel... Guira ... Alquizar.. Dagame... Canas.... Artemisa........... Mangas.......... Punta Brava...... Candelaria....... San Cristobal...... ..... Taco-Taco........ Palacios ..... Paso Real... Herradura. Consolacion. Puerta de Golpe... Las Ovas.. Pinar del Rio San Luis.......... San Juan.. 1 42 8.47 8.54 9.03 9.14 9.22 71 2.33 aucunu AAA AwwwNNNNNMHHH 92 9.36 7.18 102 III 9.53 10.05 10.23 10.33 10.48 3 07 Ібі 166 Arr. 177 Dep.] I77 194 r. 200 ΙΙ.ΟΙ 11.09 11.18 11.30 II.35 12.02 12.10 7.00 7.48 8.00 4.00 4.27 4.35 CUBA 105 Down Trains-PASSENGER 14 12 STATION 16 Dis- tance. Kilo- metres A.M. A.M. P.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. 9.00 9.11 9.35 6.00 16.24 17.00 23 12.50 1.01 1.25 1.30 1.44 1.53 2.03 2.16 5.15 5.31 5.43 5.50 130 San Juan........... Dep. San Luis... Pinar del R .... Arr. Pinar del R Las Ovas.. Puerta de Consolacion ....... Herradura....... Paso Real.......... Palacios............ Taco-Taco..... San Cristobal...... 99 Candelaria ...... 108 Punta Brava....... 117 Mangas.. 122 Artemisa ... Canas....... 135 Dagame ........... 140 Alquizar .......... Guira Gabriel.... 1б Salud ...... 169 Rincon..... 178 Santiago.... ...... 181 Rancho Boyeros... 185 Calabazar..... 187 Arroyo Na Pinos..... 193 Calzada del Monte Cristina ........... Ar 1200 6.03 6.10 148 2.35 2.44 3.02 3.15 3.28 3.40 3.47 4.03 4.II 4.18 4.30 4.41 4.48 4.59 5.14 5.20 5.27 5.35 5.40 5.47 156 U 6.28 6.40 6.47 6.58 7.13 7.19 7.25 7.32 7.38 7.45 dUTIEI............. 10.50 10.59 11.09 11.21 11.27 11.33 11.38 II.43 9.01 9.07 9.13 9.18 189 11.49 9.23 9.30 7.56 5.58 8.00 | I1.58 12.00 9.38 9.40 NORTH COAST OF CUBA Matanzas. Two routes offer to Matanzas, port and city on the north coast, 54 miles from Havana; by sea and by land. The United Railways provides a personally con- ducted excursion from Havana, at a cost of $11, Matanzas and return; children under twelve, $7.50; which includes the Yumuri Valley, Caves of Bellamar, and lunch at Hotel Paris. The land journey, Havana to Matanzas, is more than inter- esting—it is fascinating; but there are no towns or cities en route at which comforts for the traveller are provided. The journey, all the way, is through a fertile "sugar country," with palm-dotted fields of vast expanse; near and distant views of great ingenios with smoking chimneys; toiling teams of oxen drawing loads of sugar-cane, and miles of private railway tracks running in every direction. The sea voyage may be made by steamers of the Spanish Herrera Line, which touch at nearly all ports as far south and east as Santiago. Approaching Matanzas by sea, a famous landmark is first seen, the Pan de Matanzas, a sugar-loaf mountain 1,300 feet in height; then the lighthouse, forts, the castles of Morillo and San Severino. Though surrounded by hills, Matanzas is low-lying, scarcely rising above 100 feet, and is divided into three parts, each division having a distinctive name. The central portion, between the Yumuri and San Juan rivers, is known as the Old Town; on the north bank of the Yumuri is Versailles, and south of the San Juan lies the New Town, Pueblo Nuevo. The central park of Matanzas is its Plaza de Libertad, with a fountain, flowers, and the ever-present palms. The Governor's Palace bounds the south side of the Plaza; the Casino Español, or Spanish Club, the Cuban Club, and the Grand Hotel Louvre, the other sides. Fine scenery and beautiful drives are afforded by crossing the Concordia Bridge over the Yumuri, passing through the villa-lined streets of Versailles, with marble-columned and porticoed houses, profusely ornamented with grilled win- NORTH COAST OF CUBA 107 dows and balconies, to the Paseo Marti. This paseo is a parked boulevard, with a statue of Ferdinand II. at the east end, and a monument to sixty-three Cuban patriots, executed here by the Spaniards, at the west end. It overlooks har- bour and bay, and is continued by a good military road to Fort San Severino, where the “immortal mule” was slaugh- tered at Sampson's bombardment of Matanzas, in 1898. At the bridge mentioned is a massive old church, with walls 20 feet thick, and twin towers, which is worthy of inspection. In Pueblo Nuevo, to reach which the San Juan is crossed over Belen Bridge, we shall find splendid residences of the native magnates, exquisitely tinted in various colours, and with effective porticoes supported by marble pillars. Yumuri Valley. That Vale of Paradise, the Yumuri Val- ley, is best seen from the crest of the Cumbre, a verdant hill which rises immediately above Matanzas, crowned by the chapel of Montserrate. To reach the Cumbre, one should charter a volante, a Cuban vehicle with wheels 6 or 7 feet in diameter, between which the body (resembling the old “one-hoss shay'') is hung low, with shafts of great length, containing a single horse as motive power. Another horse, hitched outside the shafts, is ridden by the cochero, who guides the vehicle over the deep ruts and boulders which adorn the roads around Matanzas. Without such a con- veyance as the volante, the great feature of which is elas. ticity and strength, it would be impossible to traverse these terrible highways. Such a glorious view as is outspread beneath one from the Cumbre, it is impossible to describe, for it is one of the most beautiful scenes the world affords. The Yumuri is a deep and verdant basin enclosed within steep hills, its levels and slopes set with royal palms, singly and in clumps. “On the way thither one sees this stately and graceful tree, in ranks and single groups; but to know what beauty there really is in this child of the tropics, one should gaze upon the glorious creations of Yumuri. White and ivory-stemmed, they stand before you in the foreground of a vista transcendently lovely; they linger in memory like the spirits of departed saints." A silvery stream meanders through the valley, which breaks through a gorge to the city; and another trip should be taken 108 "A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES along its banks, above which are cliffs, with caves in their faces once occupied by Cuban refugees. Montserrate Hermitage. The Hermitage of Montserrate, at the Cumbre, is of modern erection (1870), yet is held as a sacred shrine, many miracles having been attributed to Our Lady of Montserrate, as manifested by the numer- ous votive offerings. These include numerous crutches, shell- work, diamond ear-drops, painting of a railroad wreck, etc. The Caves of Bellamar. In a hill southeast of the city are the wonderful Cavcs of Bellamar, which were discovered in 1861, by a Chinaman who lost his crowbar through an aper- ture he was opening in the earth. The name is derived from that ɔf a villa settlement near, which overlooks the har- bour. The best vehicle for a trip to Bellamar, in fact the only one capable of carrying one comfortably over a por- tion of the journey, is the volante, which can be hired in Matanzas. These caves have been explored for about 3 miles, and descend to a great depth. The aperture through which one enters is narrow, and a long flight of steps is first encoun- tered, after which succeed chambers, passages, halls, etc., the largest of which is known as the Gothic Temple, about 200 feet long by 70 wide, and which, says one writer, “while it far surpasses in richness and splendour the temple of that name in the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, does not equal it in size or solemn grandeur." Still, the caverns are large and deep enough to fatigue the ordinary visitor in the ex- ploring. The domed ceilings are splendid and sparkling. except where the torches of former times have “smooched” them. Now the electric light "strikes a thousand sparks and flames in a thousand tints.” The down-growing stalac- tites and up-growing stalagmites have coalesced, in many places, into gigantic columns, as in the “Temple,” where they are immense. The bridges and paths are kept in good repair. The guides are attentive, and seek to show all the cave contains. Charge for admission, $1, which includes services of guide. Leading Hotels, Matanzas, Grand Hotel Louvre, American plan, $2.50 up; Euro- pean, $1 up. Hotel Paris, $2.00 up, American plan; European, $1 up. NORTH COAST OF CUBA 109 Cardenas is a modern and Aourishing city 30 miles di- rectly east from Matanzas, celebrated for its two under- ground rivers, which supply it with water, and for submarine deposits of asphalt in the harbour. It lies on a broad but shallow bay, and is an important station of the United Railways. It has a fine cathedral, broad streets, and a central square, the Plaza del Recreo, which contains a statue of Columbus, presented to the city by Queen Isa- bella II. The harbour of Cardenas can hardly be called one, for large ships have to anchor 15 miles from town. Here oc- curred the brief though brilliant action of May 11, 1898, when the first American victims of the late war, Ensign Bagley and four sailors, were killed. Not far from Cardenas is a shore resort called El Vara- dero, with miles of open sea-beach where the bathing is superb. “A place of pretty châlets and hotels, with all the beauty of the Florida seaside resorts, but without their tame- ness.” Sagua la Grande, on a river of this name, navigable for a distance of 20 miles, is an important place commercially, but has little of interest to the traveller except he be in- clined to fishing and shooting. Its port at the mouth of the river, Isabel la Sagua, like a portion of Batabano, is built on piles above the water, and after the manner of the lake-dwellers' huts of Venezuela. Nuevitas is the next harbour of importance, going east; though hidden behind some of the cays, which are so numer- ous off the north coast, is Caibarien, seaport of sugar-pro- ducing Remedios, a centre of large plantations. Nuevitas is reached through a sea-river about 6 miles long, and the har- bour is so shallow that ships of size must anchor more than two miles from the wharves where the lighters land. The town is uninteresting, hot, dirty, and without hotels suitable for American or English travellers. Fishing in its harbour is good, tarpon being caught here. Sponges are obtained on the reefs, and sugar in vast quantity comes down from the interior for shipment. It is the shipping-port of Cama- guëy, or Puerto Principe, with which it is connected by rail. 110 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Pouch-shaped Harbours. Between Cardenas and Nue- vitas, the north coast of Cuba is defended by hundreds of cayos and barrier-reefs, formerly the haunts of pirates, now the chosen resorts of fishermen and spongers. Behind these are landlocked harbours, most of them shallow, but secure against the hurricane, and with long stretches of sound, a perfect sailing-ground for yachtsmen. The port of San Fernando, behind the island of Turugiuana, is the northern outlet for the railroad that crosses the island from Jucaro. Situated about 50 miles westerly from Nuevitas, on Guanaja Bay, is the large and highly successful American colony of La Gloria, comprising 1,000 population, mostly English- speaking colonists. La Gloria is a pioneer among colonies in this island, having been laid out in 1899, and its situation, in the vast and fertile Cubitas Valley, with a frostless climate, permits the raising of all tropical fruits with great success. A small steamer connects with Nuevitas; fare $1.50. Beyond Nuevitas, easterly, there are scores of most inter- esting harbours, with narrow entrances between coral cays, pouch-shaped and deep-watered, like Manati, with a grand hill inland, and Puerto Padre, which latter is of importance as the shipping-port of the Chaparra sugar-mill, one of the largest in the world. Otherwise the port is uninteresting; but the same cannot be said of the next one, which is the port of Gibara, a calling-place of the American Munson Line. Gibara is thought to be the first port entered by Columbus, on his first arrival at the Cuban coast, in 1492. This is as- sumed from the allusion in his Journal to three striking ele vations inland, known from their configuration as the Silla, or Saddle; the Pan, or Sugar-loaf; and the Tabla, or Table. Unlike most of the hills around Gibara, these are densely wooded on their lower slopes, but with summits steep and scarped, and at sunset shining like the granite crown of Mount Chocorua in New Hampshire. Gibara town occupies a steep slope along the bay, crescent- shaped, surrounded by a high wall of masonry with watch- towers, built as a protection against the insurgents. It was ultra-Spanish, and its charming villas, tinted in rainbow colours, were occupied by foreigners, most of whom have . NORTH COAST OF CUBA 111 departed. The wall and old fort, San Fernando, have gone to ruin, but the lovely dwellings remain, with their tints of red, pink, blue, and yellow vying in brilliancy with the old cathedral, which is a mellow cream, with red-tiled domes and towers. There is a little plaza here, and an apology for a hotel. Holguin. A railway 20 miles in length leads to the inland town of Holguin, where, during Spanish occupancy of the island, the Spanish troops were quartered for acclimatisa- tion. It was from this point that General Prando marched, with 5,000 men, to the relief of Santiago, in 1898, leaving, it is said, 10,000 more behind. After the Spaniards had been driven from the town more than 3,000 cases of smallpox were found here, and the streets were in such a filthy condition that the incoming Americans were months in cleansing them, as well as the houses. The old watch-tower on the hill is a reminder of war times. Here, also, stands a cross, to which, annually, the first day of May, thousands of country people make a pilgrimage. The town disports its architecture in coats of many colours, rivalling the famous coat of Joseph, and it has three plazas for the delectation of its people. There is a fonda, or native hotel, in Holguin, which has daily volante connection with the great Cuba Railroad at Cacocum. Elevated in situation, sufficiently isolated to af- ford delightful character studies for the stranger, and with a charming old church (San José), Holguin is an inviting place to visit. Naranjo and Nipe. Deep-water ports, backed by fertile sugar-cane country of surpassing richness, abound on this north coast, and one of the most charming is Naranjo, or Port Orange, the outlet of the vast estate of Santa Lucia. From the inland wilderness flows a tropical stream of great beauty. On the eastern side of a pear-shaped peninsula lies the port of Banes, and rounding still another, the largest and finest harbour on the north coast opens to view sufficiently large to float the navies of the world, with a depth in mid-channel, it is said, of nearly 200 feet. This is Nipe Bay, until a few years ago known only to the fisherman and the filibuster; in the early part of the Spanish- American War a scene of encounter between Sampson's war 112 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ships and two Spanish gunboats, the wrecks of which lie within the harbour. Nipe Bay has been selected by Sir Wm. Van Horne, the builder of the Cuba Railway, as the site of a winter resort that shall rival any of its kind on the coast of Florida. Here he has planned a great hotel to be the com- plement of his caravanseries at Havana, Camaguëy, and Santiago; two on the north coast of Cuba, one inland, and one on the south coast. Nipe Bay has certainly many natural attractions, for here is an inland tropical sea, 17 miles long by 8 miles broad; three degrees farther into the tropics than Havana, and one day nearer to New York, di- rect. By building a branch from the “Cuba" main line almost directly northward from Alto Cedro, Sir Wm. Van Horne brought his colony site at Antilla, in the southwestern corner of the bay, in touch with all parts of the island. Great forests lie inland, vast sugar and banana plantations invest the shores of Nipe, waterfalls shine like silver threads on the mountain-sides, still-water bathing offers right at hand, and, with its six-mile frontage and 50,000 acres, An- tilla has a flourishing future before it. The ports of Banes, Nipe and Cabonico form a triple group which may some day be connected by artificial channels, for capital has been enlisted here in unstinted measure. This region is being exploited by the United Fruit Company people of Boston, Massachusetts, who always do things on the grandest scale. A large sugar mill belonging to them has been in successful operation for several years, and an- other much larger, said to be the largest in the world, was recently completed at Point Tabaco, on the south side of Nipe Bay. Connected with it are 20 square miles of cane land, and in a single year, between September 1, 1905, and the latter part of 1906, a town of 300 buildings and 1,500 inhabitants sprang up as if by magic. This is the town of Preston, named after the president of the Nipe Bay Com- pany. A hotel here, built for the accommodation of the company's employees, is open to the public, with excellent rooms and service, at very low rates. Although Nipe Bay, as already mentioned, is a relatively recent discovery, it now has collected around it a population of some 50,000, while large towns, like Banes, Punta Tabaco, and Saetia, ANDRADES INNRADLO Typical West Indian Street NOVAS $ 3 200 A Watch-tower on the Trocha NORTH COAST OF CUBA 113 have grown up with great rapidity. The fruit shipments from the region are immense, and constantly increasing, em- ploying many steamers of the United Company's large fleet, already the largest in the Caribbean Sea. Antilla, which is the north-coast terminus of the Cuba Railway, is beautifully situated on Corojal Bay, in the northwest angle of Nipe Bay, and here extensive wharves and other terminal facilities have already been provided by the company, and are being largely increased. The city site belongs to the Cuba Company, which aims at erecting here a large and beautiful city. Antilla is about 80 miles nearer New York than is Havana, in a direct line. By arrangement between the well-known Munson Line of steamers and the Cuba Company, through tickets may be purchased in New York for any point on the Cuba Railway, via Nipe and Antilla. The Munson Line has established direct sailings between New York and Nipe Bay, each way twice a month, leaving New York alternate Wednesdays, and Nipe Bay alternate Fridays, after visiting all the prettiest ports on the north coast. By this coöperation between the railway and steamship line, a new and fascinating region is thrown open to the traveller. The steamers are above 3,000 tons, with first-class accommodations, and perform the voy- age in four to five days. Following is a specimen schedule: New York to Antilla, Nipe Bay, direct; thence Nuevitas, Gibara, Vita, and Puerto Padre. Homeward: Nuevitas, Antilla, New York direct. . Alternate routes are reversed. Passengers holding continuous round-trip tickets are en- titled to sleep and take their meals on board ship while in various ports; those holding one-way tickets, who desire to remain aboard after arrival at port of destination, may do so on payment of $4 per day. Letters of credit are issued by this line, available in all Cuban ports. 114 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES RATES OF PASSAGE U. S. CURRENCY First Cabin Intermediate Out Return Out Return New York and Nipe ....... $30.00 55 $22.00 New York and Nuevitas .... 30.00 55 22.00 35 New York and Puerto Padre 45.00 .. 30.00 .. New York and Gibara ...... 45.00 30.00 New York and Banes ...... 45.00 .. 30.00 Deck Staterooms, 19, 20, 21 and 23, $5.00 each person additional. COASTWISE RATES U. S. CURRENCY First Cabin Inter- mediate $16.00 $11.00 11.00 12.00 8.00 16.00 7.00 8 8.00 Nipe and Nuevitas....... Nipe and Puerto Padre.... Nipe and Gibara........ Nipe and Vita... Nuevitas and Puerto Padre...... Nuevitas and Gibara.. Nuevitas and Vita.. Puerto Padre and Gibara.... Puerto Padre and Vita...... Gibara and Vita... 8.00 8.00 8.00 8 8 NORTH COAST OF CUBA 115 THE CUBA RAILROAD ANTILLA (NIPE) BRANCH Distance from Alto Cedro READ DOWN STATIONS READ UP Miles Kilo- metres A.M. 8.00 A.M. 9.30 10.09 10.47 11.14 P.M. 7.40 8. 19 8.52 9.24 9.40 7.22 ..Alto Cedro... Aril Cueto........ Herrera....... Dumois .... r...Antilla...... 6.44 P.M. 6.00 5.32 4.44 4.17 4.00 6. II.30 6.00 Fishing and Hunting. All the inlets of this north coast abound with rare fish: red snapper, Spanish mackerel, silver- sided tarpon, sixty-pound cherna; the aguja, sometimes weighing half a thousand pounds; the ronca, which is said to “play possum” and snore when lifted from the water. In all, there are 640 species of fish in Cuban waters, besides huge lobsters, tree-growing oysters, and in the streams fine crayfish, or camarones. Game, too, is abundant, especially in the province of Santiago, which extends over nearly one- fourth the island, the entire eastern end, from the north shore to the south. This is the home of Cuba's only indige- nous quadruped, the Hutia, which has been described as a “cross between a rat and a woodchuck,” lives mainly in trees, and may be killed with a stick or a stone. In the forests through which runs the Mayari River, a stream that empties into the great bay opposite Antilla, are numerous deer, wild boar, boa-constrictors, parrots and pigeons; at the mouth of the river alligators, and in the bay sharks and porpoise enough to afford great sport. Wild guinea-fowl, quail, rab- bits, ducks, are found in the fields, and there is one species of duck that feeds in the royal palms, as well as in berry- bearing trees in swampy sections, where it is shot by the light of the moon. The Port of Baracoa. Eastward from Nipe is a fascinat- ing country for the explorer, for the hunter and botanist; 116 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES though it is hardly civilised enough for the traveller without some special incentive. The general tourist will find a lack of hotels, for there is not a good one all around the coast until Santiago de Cuba is reached, which lies directly south of Nipe Bay and Antilla. But at Baracoa so fine is the scenery immediately adjacent, so grand the hills and moun- tain-forms of the interior, so crystal-clear the streams, so graceful the cocoa-palms—which here take the place of the "royals”--that one might be willing to dispense with hotels for a while, and camp in the forests. Baracoa, the eastern- most port of account in Cuba, has a landlocked, circular har- bour, with a table-topped mountain overlooking it-Yunque, or Anvil Hill -rising with scarped sides to a height of 2,000 feet. It was discovered by Columbus, 1492, who wrote in his Journal that a thousand tongues would not suffice to de- scribe the things he saw here of beauty and novelty, for "it was all like a scene of enchantment." Enticed hither by the glowing descriptions of Columbus, Diego Velasquez, who had been sent to subjugate Cuba and colonise it by Don Diego Columbus, Christopher's son, founded a settlement here in 1511. It was the first in Cuba, and was followed by that of Santiago, in 1514. A fort was built, the walls of which still rise conspicuously above the town, which itself occupies crescent-shaped bays and a small peninsula. Great groves of cocoa-palms fill the valleys running back to the hills, line the beaches, and overtop the huts and houses. Millions of cocoanuts are shipped from Baracoa, and millions more of bananas, the great plantations supplying the markets of the United States with the choicest fruit. The country contiguous to the har- bour is almost too rugged for roads, and from the crests of cliff-like hills long trolley-wires are stretched to the shore, over which the bunches of bananas swiftly descend by gravity. The stores of Baracoa are large and well stocked, and, though there is not a very good hotel in the place, a would-be explorer might outfit here for a fascinating trip into the country. Briefly outlined, it would be: New York to Baracoa by a Munson Line steamer; en route stopping at the ports between Nuevitas and Baracoa, inclusive, with about two days in each. A Cuban guide and horse can be NORTH COAST OF CUBA 117 obtained here, together with all the equipment necessary for a stay of any length. Following the custom of the natives, one might ride a bullock, than which there is no surer-footed animal, except it be a mule. In the winter season a trip of this sort would be perfectly feasible, for the trails would be dry, the streams fordable, the tempera- ture agreeable. SOUTH COAST Guantanamo. Voyaging from Cape Maisi, the easternmost point of Cuba, to the westward, a vast difference is noted between the north coast and the south. The forests are ab- sent, the shore rises in terraces, there are fewer harbours, and until Guantanamo is seen, none at all of any importance. But Guantanamo, which lies about 40 miles to the east of Santiago, has a magnificent harbour, the bay being some 4 miles wide by no long, with deep water, sheltered by the hills from hurricanes, and ample enough to accommodate all the ships of a first-class navy. It is a lonesome place, and since its acquisition by the United States as a naval station, many a poor "Jack" has wished it had never been discovered. It was first found out by the Spaniards who came here from Santo Domingo in 1511, and was long a rendezvous for pirates and buccaneers, who lay in wait here for the gal- leons coming up from the Spanish Main, and merchant ves- sels bound for Santiago de Cuba. In 1741 it was made a base of operations against Santiago by the British Admiral Vernon, who failed in his attempt, because of the distance and difficulties in the way of an over- land attack. He had with him, among other Americans, Lawrence Washington, who named after his beloved Ad- miral Vernon the estate on the Potomac, which subsequently became the property of his brother, George, first President of the United States. Guantanamo existed pretty much in soli- tude until the beginning of the Hispano-American War, of 1898, when, in June of that year, 600 American marines landed on the sand-hills at the mouth of the great har- bour and drove off the Spaniards in possession. Admiral Sampson saw its advantages as a secure naval base in his operations against Santiago, and it became so well known that any further description would seem superfluous. A railroad runs from Caimanera, near the entrance, to the town of Guantanamo, and small steamers make occasional trips from Santiago, with which, in the near future, it is to be connected by rail, direct. SOUTH COAST 119 The Cuba Railway is to connect with Guantanamo, by a branch from Moran, on the main line, this branch having been built already as far as La Maya. It will swing around through the famous coffee region north and west of Guan- tanamo, where the first settlers located many, many years ago. This is the best section for growing Cuban coffee, spices, etc., and is also very picturesque. To reach it, take train from Cuba Railway station, Santiago de Cuba, to La Maya, whence carriage connection to whatever locality it is desired to reach. Daiquiri. "On the Spanish maps, Daiquiri is put down as a surgidero, or anchorage-place, merely, and such it was when General Shafter landed United States troops off this lone- some spot, in June, 1898. For a while it stood out con- spicuously, and thousands of soldiers, thousands of tons of supplies, munitions, etc., were sent ashore through its roll- ing surfs. But after the war was over Daiquiri sank into its wonted insignificance, and will probably be heard of no more. It is about midway between Guantanamo and Santiago. Santiago de Cuba. The finest harbour in Cuba, taking into consideration its magnitude and magnificent natural de- fences, is that of Santiago de Cuba, with an entrance less than 600 feet in width, and an inner bay 6 miles long by 3 miles wide. On the right, as you enter, rises a rocky prom- ontory 200 feet in height, crowned by historic Morro Castle, from one point of view fitting into its position like the cap- stone to a pyramid. The seaward face of this vast, impreg- nable cliff has been hollowed into caverns by the waves of countless centuries, but it is steep and inaccessible. On the left of the entrance is La Socapa, and on the right again, within the harbour, are Estrella Point and Battery, further in being the Punta Gorda battery, which, together with the Morro, Admiral Sampson “silenced” the fire of many times, yet dared not run his ships within the entrance. It was not, however, so much the old rock fort perched upon the crag that the admiral feared, as the submarine mines in the harbour. Then again, after Lieutenant Hob- son and his seven companions sank the Merrimac (June 3, 1898), the Yankee hulk was as much in the way of Samp- son's fleet as in that of Cervera, who was then ensconced 120 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES within. The wreck of the Merrimac lies within the en- trance, in line between it and the Cayo Smith, or Smith's Key, an insular hill supporting a red-tiled hamlet and crowned by a chapel. After we have entered this harbour, which merits the name of Escondido-or “hidden"-as much as another port to the eastward that bears this appellation, we understand how it was that Admiral Cervera remained securely concealed from sight of those without, on the war- ships. During more than forty days he lay there, before he was forced from his hole, like a fox smoked out of his burrow, and then it was not the Americans who did it, but the Spaniards. The former quickly settled scores with him and his warships, once they got their great guns trained upon his unfortunate squadron, and what they did to him and to them is a matter of history. They could make no impression upon old Morro, it seems, though a thousand tons of shot and shell were cast at it—though a "Vesuvius" belched flame and shook the shores with her thunderings; but the wrecks of gallant battleships, that soon after strewed the coast to the westward, told a different tale, indeed. Morro Castle. The Morro fortifications were begun soon after the founding of Santiago, in the second decade of the sixteenth century; but, notwithstanding their strength of position, did not suffice to keep away the buccaneers, who attacked and carried them by storm in 1537, 1553, and 1592. In the year 1662 they were taken by a British force under Lord Winsor, after which the city was sacked of all its treasure, and even the church-bells and slaves carried off by the victors. Though the Morro was so easily taken in the old days, the Americans in 1898—through an excess of cau- tion, perhaps—met with indifferent success when they at- tempted its reduction. It was the object of frequent bom- bardments, but after all was over little harm had been done. It still stands, hardly changed in aspect since the writer first saw it, many years ago—save for a coat of whitewash, and a smarter appearance generally than of yore. A domed sentry-box of stone overhangs the sea, seemingly ready to fall; the rock-ribbed fortress is carried up from the sea-line by a succession of walls, turrets, towers, like many a mediæ- val fort still to be seen on the coast of the Mediterranean. SOUTH COAST 121 Only above the summit are the lines of masonry sharply defined, each terrace adorned with antiquated cannon, and the whole structure dominated by a massive tower. The steamer glides beneath impending battlements, tinted in pink and grey, until another water battery faces it, then, while for a moment the castled fortress rears its walls 200 feet above, the harbour-bay begins to open. Santiago City. As Santiago is approached it appears an Oriental city, lying against its hillside, at the foot a marine park with sinuous windings, its grand cathedral, and a sea of roofs disporting radiant colouring, in which pink and red predominate. There is no other city in Cuba just like it, though the architecture of all is Oriental-Spanish. Its cen- tral feature, of course, is the plaza, on one side of which is the cathedral; on another the San Carlos Club, said to be the wealthiest outside Havana; contiguous to it the Casa Grande hotel; on the north is the Municipal Building, and on the remaining western side is the “Venus" restaurant. Leading away from the plaza are the shopping streets, filled with Spanish wares, as well as with American, of late. The cathedral, called the largest in Cuba, has a large dome and two towers. Its nave is long and spacious, the side-chapels adorned with rare marbles, the choir-stalls made of solid mahogany. This church occupies the site of the first erected in Cuba, within which, as an excavation revealed, was buried Diego Velasquez, the conquistador, who died in 1522. With Velasquez in Cuba, at Baracoa and Santiago, were those since famous men, Bartholomew Las Casas and Hernando Cortés, and a house in which the latter lived is shown, near the top of the hill, from which a glorious view is outspread of the harbour and distant mountains. The house is a single story, with tiled roof, and windows fitted with wooden grills. On the hill, also, is a model school-house, built by the Americans at a cost of $50,000, a Boston philan- thropist, Mr. H. L. Higginson, contributing $20,000 of this amount. It was not far from its site that tradition locates the first school in Cuba, which was founded in 1522. Near the plaza stands the Filarmonia theatre, in which, tradition also states, the peerless Adelina Patti made her debut, at the age of fourteen. Another foreigner of fame who once lived 122 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES in Santiago was Doctor Antomarchi, who was at Napoleon's bedside when he died at St. Helena. In a tour of the world afterward, he chanced upon a long-lost brother, of whom he was in search, in the city of Santiago, and here he set- tled down, and finally died of yellow fever, as his monu- ment in the cemetery attests. Santiago has a generous warmth of colouring, also a more generous warmth of atmosphere, so it is advisable to make one's excursions morning and evening, taking a siesta at noonday, and depending upon the plaza to furnish plenty of local character, as well as colour, for nearly all the people assemble there, sooner or later-especially later. The band plays in the plaza frequently; and as all nights are cool here, in the winter season, with skies of turquoise frosted with stars, it is a joy to be out until the small hours. There is no longer great danger from yellow fever, as it has been fought and fumigated, until “Yellow Jack” hardly dares show his head. But there is still a scant supply of water in Santiago, despite the labors General Wood performed when in command; and the sewage system is very de- ficient, almost non-existent; though abundant springs of pure water exist in the near mountains, and the city is so sit- uated that it could easily be sewered and drained. The Virginius. What the Spaniards suffered at Santiago : the loss they incurred there, of the island as well as the city, was in a sense prefigured by an atrocious occurrence twenty-five years previously. This was the massacre of the captain and sailors of the American steamer Virginius, in 1873. They were captured off Jamaica, and taken to Santi- ago as filibusters, stood up against a wall of the Santiago slaughter-house and shot. The miserable Spaniards added insult to injury by shooting the Americans within the foul confines of the public slaughter-house, where to-day a tab- let commemorates the event. The inscription on the tablet begins: "You who pass this spot uncover the head. It is consecrated earth. For thirty years it has been blessed by the blood of patriots sacrificed by tyranny.” The United States Government of that time pusillanimously overlooked this atrocity, diplomacy smoothed it over; but for many years it rankled in the breasts of patriots, and perhaps was SOUTH COAST 123 as efficacious as that other atrocity, the Maine massacre, in bringing about the expulsion of those miscreants from Cuba. The slaughter-pen is down near the harbour-front, east of the Cuba Railroad station, and is as vile a spot to-day as one can find in Santiago. One will care to linger only long enough to read the inscription and breathe an imprecation against the Spanish murderers. The Alamada, or park-like drive, is on the harbour-front, a favourite resort of fashion on Sundays and late afternoons. Other drives are to El Cristo, Boniato, San Luis, El Caney, El Morro, and the San Juan battle-field. The Boniato drive is over a magnificent military road through an attractive country, to a height that affords a grand sea and harbour view, with the misty Blue Mountains of Jamaica looming above the Caribbean, many miles away. Cost of carriage to top of mountain and return, over military road, $5. To Morro Castle, over fine road, with attractive views, $3.50 for one; $4 for four. Within the city, hack fares are 20 cents per passenger; extra, 10 cents each ; $1 per hour. To El Caney and San Juan battle-field, one person, $1.50; for four persons, $2. San Juan and El Caney, So much has been said and writ- ten of the San Juan battle-field that the subject should probably be taboo—not to be mentioned on pain of death—except in a guide-book; in which, however, it is necessary to indicate the way thither, though the very fa- miliar details may be omitted. The march of the Americans upon Santiago, by the way of Las Guasimas, Kettle Hill, San Juan, and El Caney, has been described a thousand times; and these places have now become as inseparably connected with the history of Cuba as the Morro itself. For what took place there, read President Roosevelt's vivid descriptions in his Rough Riders, and Secretary of War Alger's Spanish- American War. The chief points have been incorporated into a national park, to and through which runs an excellent road. In dry weather it is good, but bad when the rains de- scend. The distance to San Juan is about 3 miles, and a little more to El Caney. On the way to the former that famous “Surrender Tree" is passed, where, on July 17, 1898, General Shafter received the submission of Santiago from 124 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES General Toral. This surrender led to that of the province, followed by the whole island, and the eventual expulsion of the Spaniards from Cuba. The siege of Santiago lasted but little more than two weeks; but how vast were the results and momentous the consequences ! The “Surrender Tree" is a silk-cotton, called in Spanish ceiba, and is a rather sorry specimen; but it sufficed for the purpose, and its wood being spongy and unyielding to pen- knives, it has been allowed to stand, unwhittled, though un- majestic. The hill beyond is capped by a monument to the brave “boys in blue" who fell on slopes and in the fields around it, which now are as quiet as before the invasion, almost in solitude. A good view is open from the top of the hill, and with a map one may trace the route followed by our soldiers, coming over from Kettle Hill and Las Guasimas-ward. El Caney, that quaint Indian village which had reposed un- disturbed for centuries, up to the time its fort was attacked and taken by American soldiers in the summer of 1898, has also lapsed into quietude. One can hardly believe that when, after a fierce artillery fire that breached the walls, the gal- lant Americans entered the fort, driving the enemy before them at the bayonet's point, “it was foored with dead soldiers"; but the tale is true. Only the old fort remains as a witness, its walls crumbling, dismantled, for there is no longer an enemy to contend with, the soldiers of both nationalities have departed, and the simple people dwelling here live in peace. Caney is an interesting village, even aside from its association with the war, for it has long been the residence of natives descended from the aborigines, of whom there are no specimens of pure blood remaining in Cuba Those residing in Caney are the nearest relatives of the Indian to be found anywhere, however, and live “as near to nature as the law allows,” dwelling in huts of palm, deriv- ing their sustenance from farms and gardens cultivated in the good old aboriginal way. That is, they plough with crooked sticks, raise cassava, boniatos, etc., and revel in abundance of tropical fruits. Go to El Caney by all means, for it is easily accessible by carriage-road, and by a branch of railway from Santiago. Ruins of Fort at Caney, Cuba Cayo Smith, Santiago Harbour SOUTH COAST 125 Other Excursions. A private railroad runs from a big iron pier in the harbour to the famous iron mines of Daiquiri, whence, tradition relates, some of the iron was obtained that belted some of the American warships engaged in bombard- ing Santiago and the Morro. The province is the richest in Cuba, having mines of copper, iron, and gold. The last- named metal was mined by the Spaniards before Plymouth Rock was discovered—a hundred years before and at Cristo, it is said, Hernando Cortés had a mine, as well as slaves. This is a very pretty station a few miles out of Santiago, where all kinds of tropical fruits now abound; though gold is no longer mined there. The Virgin of Cobre. One of the best excursions Santi- ago has to offer is to the Cobre mines, in the mountain range on the opposite side of the harbour. Cobre is Spanish for copper, of which there is a great abundance in the hills, and the mines are very rich. To get there, first cross the har- bour in the company's steamer (having first obtained per- mission at headquarters office) and then board a flat mule- car, or a mule flat-car, for the mines. The distance is about ten miles, all the way ascending, over a narrow-gauge, rick- ety railway, crossing perilous bridges, and passing through fine scenery. The mines have been worked for centuries, having furnished not only metal for Spanish galleons, but also for some of the guns with which the Americans bom- barded the defences of Santiago in 1898. Rich specimens of copper may be obtained here from the miners, who are courteous and obliging. The great attraction of Cobre, however, is Nuestra Señora de la Caridad, who has been here nearly 300 years. She is a sacred image, who, in the early years of the seventeenth century, was discovered by some Indians, floating upon a board in the Bay of Nipe. It is supposed she is identical with the precious relic that the renowned cavalier Alonzo de Ojeda was wont to carry with him, and to whom he as- cribed all his great victories. He was wrecked on the south coast of Cuba early in the sixteenth century, and gave her in charge of an Indian chief, in return for his life. The cacique built a shrine, and he and all his people worshipped her with veneration; but she finally disappeared, and about 126 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES a hundred years later was found at Nipe, as above de- scribed. She was taken to the Indian hamlet of Hato, not far from Cobre, but three times left the place and perched upon the mountain, where, finally, perceiving that it was her desire to stay there, the devout Cubans built a splendid shrine. This sanctuary was erected in 1631, and here the Virgen de la Caridad may be seen to-day. She is a wooden image, 15 inches high, mounted in tortoise-shell inlaid with ivory and gold, resplendently robed, and decked with jewels re- puted to be worth at least $10,000. These may be paste; but at one time her votive offerings—made in return for numerous favours — were valued at several times this amount. On a night in May, 1899, however, some sacri- legious thieves broke into the sanctuary and robbed her of treasure to the value, it is said, of $25,000. Her festival occurs on September 8th annually, at which event thousands of pilgrims flock to Cobre. Connections with Santiago. The great central line, the Cuba Railway, connects with Havana, distant 540 miles, time twenty-five hours, without change. It is furnished with "sleepers” and observation cars, while several good restau- rants along the line provide excellent meals at cost of $1 each. The long-established Ward Line runs between Santiago and New York by way of the Bahamas, calling at Nassau. The Herrera Line (Spanish) connects Santiago with Ha- vana, touching at all ports of importance on the north coast; going south to Santo Domingo and Porto Rico. The Pickford and Black Line, from and to Halifax, Nova Scotia, via Bermudas, makes a monthly visit to Santiago. The Menendez Line (Spanish) runs boats between Santiago and Batabano, calling at intermediate ports, once a week. During the winter season a small steamer sails between San- tiago and Kingston, Jamaica, once a week. Santiago to Cienfuegos. From Santiago westward to Cape Cruz, a matter of 100 miles or so, the coast is bold and the mountain chains the grandest in the island, for above them towers mighty Turquino, more than 8,000 feet in alti- tude. It was on the coast westward from Santiago that Cervera's fleet was driven ashore by the well-directed fire SOUTH COAST 127 of American warships on that eventful day in July, 1898. They lay there long after, rusted, twisted heaps of scrap- iron, all the way from the harbour-entrance to the Surgi- dero of Turquino, forty-five miles westward, where the battleship Colon was beached and deserted. Behind Cabo de Cruz—Cape of the Cross—lies the Gulf of Guacanaybo, with the largest river in Cuba, the Cauto, dis- charging into it. Its headwaters are crossed by the Cuba Railway, between Alto Cedro and Santiago, about 100 miles from its mouth, so it is not a very long stream, though exceedingly interesting. The city on Guacanaybo's shores is Manzanillo, hot and unhealthful, but controlling the trade of a region with vast resources. It has a lovely little plaza, with royal palms, electric-lighted, like the streets, and claims to have been the place at which the last shot of the Spanish- American War was fired. As the Yankees were making ready to shell the city, news arrived that the peace protocol was signed, and Manzanillo was saved. Wrecks of two vessels destroyed by the enemy lie near the wharf, but these were sunk at the beginning of the war. Bayamo, where the republican uprising of 1868 took place, and where the first president, Palma, of the Cuban Republic, was born, in 1835, lies inland from Manzanillo some 25 miles. There is hardly a more isolated spot in Cuba; yet “Don Tomas," as the Cubans affectionately term their first president, loves the place, and is said to prefer its quiet and seclusion to the strife and bustle of Havana. Several families of importance in Cuba had their origin here, and as the soil of this region is extremely fertile, vast fortunes have been made easily, the hospitality of the people being proverbial. Gardens of the Queen. Westward from the Gulf stretches a labyrinth of islets-cayos-bordered with mangroves, in- fested by mosquitos, and inhabited by hardy fishermen, dis- covered by Columbus, and named by him Las Jardines de la Reina, or Gardens of the Queen. They were then occupied by Indians, whose descendants have long since disappeared. Like similar islets on the north coast which he called the "King's Gardens,” they were more attractive at a distance than close at hand, the water about them being shallow, the 128 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES soil poor, and their resources scanty. On the coast of the main island, opposite the Cayos de las Jamaicanas, is a queer little town of palm-thatched huts known as Santa Cruz del Sur. Sancti Spiritus and Trinidad. On the coast, north of the western Jardines, is the harbour of Jucaro, southern termi- nus of the Jucaro and San Fernando Railroad, and of the great trocha, which the Spaniards built across the island (which here is very narrow) as a barrier against the insur- gents. We shall see some of its watch-towers at Ciego de Avila, on the Cuba Railway. West of Jucaro, about 50 miles, is Tunas de Zaza, which is of importance as the port of Sancti Spiritus, a short railway line connecting both places with the “Cuba” line. Sancti Spiritus was founded about 1514, and looks its antiquity, with narrow streets, a cathedral of date 1630, and massive structures that resemble Spanish palaces. It lies in the centre of a rich and rolling country, where fortunes have been made in cattle-raising, and amid scenery that is a delight to the eye. Its royal palms and bamboos give it character, while a noted landmark is the Pan de Azucar, or Sugar-loaf Hill, in the southwest. About 20 miles west of Tunas is Casilda, the seaport of Trinidad, which, having been founded in 1513, is next to Baracoa in antiquity. It is equally famous, also, in Cuban annals, for here settled several caballeros, who went with Hernando Cortés on his voyage to Mexico. Cortés came here in 1519, and gathered together many cavaliers as well as munitions and provisions. Here then lived the noted Puerto- carrero, who went to Mexico with Cortés, and who made the first voyage from New to Old Spain. The place has always been noted for its healthfulness, and its situation, on the side of La Vigia, or Lookout Mountain, is strikingly picturesque. A vast sugar country surrounds Trinidad, and millionaire planters were numerous at one time, before war's ravages cut off their incomes. In a smaller way, fruit culture has been attempted by Americans, who have a colony here. Cienfuegos. The city of Cienfuegos, though the most re- cent of Cuba's successful settlements, is also one of the finest. It was founded in 1819, destroyed by a hurricane, and rebuilt in 1825. The bay was discovered by Columbus, who, SOUTH COAST 129 when entering it, was struck by the myriads of fire-beetles disporting in the meadows alongshore, and is said to have exclaimed, “Mira los Cienfuegos!" ("Behold the Hundred Fires !") The bay itself, originally known as Jagua, is called by mariners one of the finest in the world; but the city lies at a distance of 6 miles from its entrance, where, on Point Sabanilla, stands the ancient Castillo de Jagua, giving pro- tection to a quaint and highly coloured group of small huts and houses. Not far away is Signal Hill, from which an ex- tensive view offers of the coast, the city, two isolated hills called Tetas de Tomosa, and a distant mountain range. On the opposite side of the entrance is Point Colorado, where United States soldiers were formerly stationed, and where the submarine telegraphic cable has a landing. Here oc- curred that brilliant episode of the Spanish-American War in which the Americans were first under fire and shed their blood, while cutting the cables, at the same time subjected to a hail of rifle-shot from the fort. That was on May 11, 1898. Less than ten months later, or February 6, 1899, the last of the Spaniards, under General Castellanos, evacuated Cuba and sailed from this harbour for Spain. The Plaza de Armas, in the centre of the city, is orna- mented with royal palms and laurels, and guarded by two marble lions which were presented by Queen Isabella of Spain. On concert nights, Sunday and Thursday evenings, the élite of society may be found here, the girls and women wearing the Spanish mantilla, or with their dark tresses ornamented with roses. Facing the plaza on one side are the municipal buildings, on another the grand cathedral, a fine structure containing a Madonna robed in cloth-of- gold and purple, a gift of Queen Isabella, and handsome altar fittings. On another side is the large Terry theatre, which was built by the heirs of Don Tomas Terry, a rich sugar-planter whose estates were among the most extensive in Cuba. It was a gift to the city, cost $115,000, and its receipts are donated to the schools. City and plaza are lighted by electricity, the streets are broad and straight, and altogether Cienfuegos is a very attractive place. It lies on a gentle slope, near the level of the bay, but the climate, though very hot, is not inimical to health during a short stay. 130 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Excursions may be made by steamer to the shores and islets of the great bay, the water of which is perfectly trans- parent; to some large sugar plantations on the Damiju River; to the Castillo and harbour-entrance; and to the wonderful Habanilla Falls, set in virgin verdure, and known as the “Cuban Minnehaha.” Cienfuegos, 195 miles from Havana, with a train daily each way over the United Railways, is reached by three lines of steamers, one from Batabano and two from Santiago. Carriage trips in the city cost 20 cents per passenger, 10 cents each additional above two; per hour, $i American money. Interpreters, as in Havana, receive $2 per day. THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY By the construction of the great Cuba Railway, completed in 1902, it is estimated that at least 70 per cent. of Cuban territory, occupied by less than 40 per cent. of its population, was opened to settlement and exploitation. A wonderful country for the traveller was thrown open, beyond doubt, and no one should visit Cuba without a trip (one way at least) between Havana and Santiago. These two points are 540 miles apart, and train-schedules are so arranged, with a departure from Havana at 9 P.M. and another from San- tiago at 6 A.M., that by travelling both ways all the fine scenery may be included and all the chief cities. The time consumed is twenty-five hours, as the trains travel slowly ; but as they are equipped with first and third-class coaches, sleepers and observation cars, with excellent restaurants at intervals along the line, the arrangement is satisfactory to the traveller, who finds much to occupy his attention every moment of the trip. Leaving the Villanueva Station, Havana, at 9 P.M., Matanzas (which, with the route thither, is described in preceding pages) is reached about midnight. The distance is 100 kilo- metres, or 63 miles. After a tarry of a little more than an hour the train moves on again, through the great “sugar country” of Cuba, and daylight finds us in Santa Clara Prov- ince. There are six provinces in Cuba: Pinar del Rio, Ha- vana, Matanzas, Santa Clara, Puerto Principe, and Santiago. The first is served by the Western Railways, the second and third by the Central and United Railways of Havana and the three remaining by the Cuba. Santa Clara, the capital of the province, is 184 miles from Havana, and reached shortly after daylight. In the cool of the morning one finds the train entering its station, where coffee and light refreshments are served, fifteen minutes be- ing allowed for the purpose. The town of Santa Clara con- tains about 14,000 inhabitants and was founded in 1689, in the centre of a rich country celebrated for its production of 132 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES sugar and cattle. It is a thrifty and healthful city, locally famous for the beauty of its women, and the refinement of its population generally. Situated a short distance from the railway station, a stop-over will be necessary for a tarry here; but it would not come aniss, especially as there is a good hostelry, the Santa Clara Hotel and Restaurant, opposite the plaza, with electric lights, telephone, and baths. The cathedral contains a painting, a Madonna, more than 200 years old, as it has been here that length of time, and is accredited to one of the Spanish masters. The Teatro de la Caridad, or Charity Theatre, devotes its receipts to city schools, and was a present to the municipality by a lady. A tramway connects city and railway station, fare 5 cents, and hacks are always in waiting for trains; fares same as in Havana. The Great Trocha across Cuba. A perfect network of railways covers Havana and Matanzas provinces, some of which have been referred to in relation to the places visited. At Santo Domingo and Esperanza lines run southwardly to Cienfuegos (already described), at Placetas del Sur an- other branch reaches the north coast at Caibarien, and at Zaza del Medio a short spur, 7 miles in length, connects with Sancti Spiritus. At Ciego de Avila, 280 miles from Havana, and 260 from Santiago, an ancient railway crosses the island completely, from San Fernando on the north to Jucaro on the south coast. This is the narrowest part of the island east of Havana Province, and was availed of by the Span- iards for the construction of their famous trocha, or mili- tary pathway, from the north coast to the south. It is about 50 miles in length, and the whole of that distance was cleared of every tree and shrub big enough to hide a Cuban insur- gent for the space of a kilometre in width. Here, in fact, the Spaniards possessed a triple line of defence, by which they hoped to prevent the Cubans from passing from one end of the island to the other : the railway, a barbed-wire entanglement, and a line of fortalezas, or blockhouses, 210 in number, each one equipped with a powerful electric light, telephonic connection with all the others, and filled with an armed guard. These blockhouses may be seen at their best in Ciego de Avila and vicinity. They are about 20 feet THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 133 square, built of massive masonry in the lower story, with square tower sheathed in corrugated iron. Besides being extremely picturesque, they were strong enough to resist attacks from without, were pierced with loopholes for mus- ketry, and their only entrance was 10 or 12 feet above the ground. Yet they were not so effective, even in combina- tion with the “impregnable trocha," as to prevent the in- surgents from wandering over the island at their own sweet will. The Spaniards, however, performed a service to the island in clearing this space across it more than half a mile in width, for now the Cubans are utilising it for agricul- tural purposes. Ceballos Colony. There is a railway restaurant at Ciegos de Avilos, trains stopping there twenty-five minutes for meals-which, by the way, are abundant, excellent, and quickly served. No better can be found in Cuba than at the stations along the railway-speaking from the personal experience of the writer. Of itself Ciego is a forsaken and uninteresting place, but a few miles north of it, on the line of the cross-country railroad, lies the colony of Ceballos, where large undertakings have been made for the growing of tropical fruits. A large hotel has been opened recently at Ceballos. Orange, lime, lemon and other tropical trees make wonderful growth in Cuba, and as there is no frost to be feared—as in Florida—success in this direction seems assured from the start. This Ceballos Colony is but one of several attempts to locate Canadian and American set- tlers on the fertile spots of Cuba with varying degrees of success, dependent mainly upon the capacity of foreigners to endure the monotony of life in isolated sections, and it seems the most promising of all. There is a colony at La Gloria, with outlet on the coast at Nuevitas; another at Holguin, with connection for the north coast at Gibara; an- other at Minas, on the railway line from Camaguëy to Nue- vitas; still another near Trinidad, on the south coast; the largest of all, perhaps, at the Isle of Pines; and yet another at Bahia Honda. In truth, scattered individuals and groups of colonists are to be found all over the island, which offers every variety of soil, scenery, and agricultural resources to prospective settlers, 134 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Camaguëy, or Puerto Principe. The central region of Cuba is elevated, with mountains playing hide-and-seek at a distance from the railroad, with vast areas of level coun- try, much of it seemingly sterile; but with broad acres of sugar-cane visible almost any hour of the day. It is a health- ful region, mid-seas, yet swept by trade-winds by day and breezes from the mountains at night. The typical city of the interior, capital of a province bearing the same name, is Camaguëy, or Puerto Principe, about 340 miles from Havana, and 200 from Santiago. Though it has now reverted to the Indian name of the native village that preceded the city on the plain, it is as often known as Puerto Principe, or “Prince's Port," as Camaguëy. How an inland city can be called a port, is explained by the fact that its settlers origi- nally located on the coast, at or near the present port of Nuevitas, whence they were driven by pirates to the present situation. The first settlement was made in 1515, under the name of Santa Maria del Principe, but the following year the location was changed, though the name was retained. But the pirates still pursued them, for in the year 1665, or after the original settlers had all died, the inland city was at- tacked by the notorious Morgan, who, leaving his ships at the coast, made a forced march upon it and took vast treas- ure from the people, who had grown very rich at cattle-rais- ing, and possessed great hoards of silver. The story is told in Esquemeling's History of the Bucaniers, published 1668: "As soon as the Pyrates had possessed themselves of the Town, they enclosed all the Spaniards, Men, Women, Chil- dren, and Slaves, in the several Churches, and pillaged all the Goods they could find. Then they searched the Country roundabout, bringing in daily many Goods, and Prisoners, with much Provision. With this they fell to, making great Cheer, after their Custom, without remembering the poor Prisoners, whom they let starve in the Churches; though they tormented them daily and inhumanely, to make them confess where they had hid their Treasure, etc.; though little or nothing was left them, not sparing the Women and little Children, giving them nothing to eat, whereby the greatest part perished.” Finally, having thoroughly sacked the city and put to death THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 135 many of its inhabitants, the pirates departed for the coast, taking with them 500 head of cattle, which they compelled the Cubans to slaughter and salt for provisions on the voyage. Some of the churches in which the captives were starved to death are still to be seen in the city, which is very ancient in appearance and Spanish in its architecture. Its streets are narrow and tortuous, many of them yet unpaved, and lined with the quaintest structures to be found in Cuba. A sur- vival of the times when the only water-supply for house- hold purposes was derived from the sky, is found in the use of immense earthern jars, called tinajones, sometimes 6 feet in diameter and with a capacity of 500 gallons. These stand in the patios, or inner courts, to catch the rain-water from the roofs. Having once seen one of these receptacles, the reader will understand why, in Puerto Principe, a per- son with a capacity for drink is called a tinajon; in other words a “tank.” Puerto Principe cannot truthfully be called a desirable place of residence; yet it is quaintly picturesque, with a fine plaza, that of Agramonte, in which the band plays twice a week, one side of which is occupied by the cathedral. The city is noted for the number and antiquity of its churches, most interesting of which is La Merced, built about 1628, and one of those in which the pirates' prisoners were confined and tortured. It now belongs to the order of Barefooted Carmel- ites, who came from Spain, and an attractive feature of whose daily services is singing by their choir. The church is open daily, 6 to 10 A.M., 6 to 7 P.M.; though entrance may be obtained at other hours by ringing the bell of the monas- tery-to which women are not admitted. The massive walls of this old church were evidently made to withstand a siege, as they are from 4 to 8 feet thick. The high altar is of solid silver, made with 40,000 Spanish dollars. A sepulchre containing an effigy of Christ is of hammered silver, weighs 500 pounds, and on Good Fridays it has been the custom to carry it through the principal streets on the shoulders of men who held it a privilege to bear this heavy burden. Excursions. There are six churches in the city be- sides the cathedral, and in the suburbs the fine structure of Nuestra Señora de la Caridad, or Our Lady of Charity, 136 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES which is passed on the way to the Santa Cruz Bridge. This drive crosses the Hatibonico River, ordinarily an insignifi- cant stream, but which when in flood rises more than 20 feet. In this direction also is the Casino, a public park, and, near the Caridad, a wonderful well 30 feet deep, 20 in width, cut from the living rock and with winding steps down to the water. The place owes much to the Americans, who con- structed roads, drove artesian wells, and gave the people an inkling of their region's resources. It cannot be said that the environs of the city are attractive, the chief pos- session of this section being its delightful winter climate. It is 45 miles from its port of Nuevitas, with which it is connected by the oldest railway line in Cuba, upon which still runs one of the original locomotives, constructed sev- enty years ago. Hotels, etc. There is a native hotel in the city, near the plaza, and a railway restaurant near the tracks, both well served; but since the removal to Camaguëy of the gen- eral offices of the Cuba Railway a great hotel has been opened which casts all others in the shade. This is the Hotel Camaguëy, which occupies an immense building (covering, with its patios, 372 acres) that was once the bar- racks of Spanish cavalry, capable of quartering 2,000 men. It has the name of being the largest and one of the best equipped hotels on the island, with many suites of rooms having baths attached, a detached structure for its cuisine, long rows of pillared corridors, and a roof-garden com- manding extensive views of Camaguëy and its environment. It was the intention of the railway management to maintain here a hotel in connection with another in Havana, and perhaps still another on the Bay of Nipe, north coast, with a fourth in Santiago, at which the traveller might find every- thing desirable for a winter's stay, including an entirely dif- ferent climate and scenery at each place. Fares about the City. Havana hack prices prevail here -20 cents for one person; or two persons, within city points, 10 cents each, additional. Within the city $1 per hour, with- out the limits $1.50. There is no good tram-car line, but a well-equipped “electric" is needed in Puerto Principe. Santiago Province. Fifty miles east of Camaguëy we THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 137 reach the border-line of Santiago Province, which com- prises the entire eastern end of Cuba, and 25 miles beyond the line come to a small place known as Victoria de las Tunas, locally celebrated for an action in the Cuban war, and more recently made prominent by the railway eating- station established here. A good meal is furnished, and twenty minutes in which to consume it, then the train rolls on again, into a region different from the open plains of Santa Clara and Principe. It is a forest region we have entered now, where the wood giants come crowding down to the very rails, and every station is piled high with cords of scented cedar and mahogany. This latter wood is so com- mon, even, that it has been used for railway ties, though not so good for the purpose as those brought from the North. At the station of Cacocum, 463 miles from Havana, one sees a survival of the olden mode of conveyance in the mud- bespattered volantes drawn up beside the platform, awaiting passengers for Holguin. At the next station, Lewiston, a great gap has been made in the forest wilderness by enter- prising Americans, who have thousands of acres under the axe, and are reaching southward toward the valley of the Cauto, where they purpose establishing a vast rancho for the raising of cattle. Alto Cedro, or the “Tall Cedar,” is a junction station on the “Cuba” line where a branch diverges for the Bay of Nipe -previously described. It is in the centre of Santiago Prov- ince, and seems destined also to be the centre of future de- velopment, though at present right in the wilderness. Here and beyond we see the great ceiba trees, their huge but- tressed bulks covered over with air-plants, hung with long lianas, or bush-ropes—suggestions of the dense forests that occur in the interior region, the skirt of which the railroad touches. At the station of Moron, only if miles from Santiago, a short branch projects northward to Maya, whence it will some day be extended to the hills above Guantanamo, where coffee and all the spices can be grown to perfection. Hence, northerly and easterly, the region is a wild one, almost un- known to the traveller; but southerly the railroad has pene- 138 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES trated, opening up a veritable Eden of fruitful lands and attractive scenery. Nearing Santiago exquisitely rounded hills appear, crowned with palms, and the rude huts called by the aborigines bohios, within which Cubans dwell to-day, leading as simple a life as their ancestors led before the ad- vent of the railway. Suddenly we emerge from the tropical gardens of Cristo and Cubitas, where fruits gleam on the trees and flowers fill the air with fragrance, and before us lies the beautiful bay of Santiago, for a description of which see page 119. RAILROAD RATES FROM HAVANA Ist U.S. Cy. . . . . . . . COA ................. SE U. S. Cy. To Matanzas .... $1.57 To Jovellanos ....... 2.32 To Santa Clara...... 4.24 To Ciego de Avila...... 6.33 To Camaguëy ...... 7.72 To Cacocum, for Holguin and Gibara 10.33 To Alto Cedro. 21.87 10.96 To Santiago ........ .............. 24.02 12.03 To Nuevitas ..... 18.06 . 9.05 To Nipe ............. 23.23 11.63 Round-trip tickets on railroad, double the single fare. Connections with Cuba. New York and north coast: The Munson Line, sailings fortnightly, for Nipe, Nuevitas, Puerto Padre, Gibara, Banes, etc. ist Cabin Intermediate 0.w. R.T. 0.w. R.T. New York and Nipe.......... $20 $60 $22 " Nuevitas ...... 22 " Puerto Padre.. 30 (6 45 " Gibara ........ 45 80 Banes ........ 45 - 30 Special deck staterooms, $5 extra each person. New York and Havana: The Ward Line, two sailings each week, each way. Leave New York Thursdays and Satur-. days, arrive Havana Mondays and Wednesdays. Leave Ha- vana Tuesdays and Saturdays, arrive New York Fridays and Tuesdays. Rates: one way $50, return $80. Intermediate, $35; second-class, $12.50. $35 30 30 THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 139 New York and south-coast ports: Ward Line, sailings weekly, for Guantanamo, Santiago, Manzanillo, and Cienfuegos. Leave New York Fridays, arrive Nassau (Bahamas) Tuesdays, Guantanamo Thursdays, Santiago Saturdays. Return, leave Santiago Mondays, arrive Nassau Wednesdays, and New York Sundays. Rates: Guantanamo and Santiago, $45, return $85; Manzanillo, $55; Cienfuegos (via Havana), $45, return $85. Passengers remaining on board at Cuban ports pay $4, gold, per day, first-class; $2 per day second-class; berth and meals. New Orleans and Havana : Southern Pacific Line, from New Orleans every Saturday; from Havana every Tuesday. Rates: First cabin $20, round trip $35. Miami, Tampa, Key West, and Havana : Peninsular and Occidental Line, connecting with the Florida East Coast Railway and Atlantic Coast Line, via Miami and Tampa. Leave Havana Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, for Key West and Miami; Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays for Key West and Tampa. Santiago to Jamaica: Steamer Turbinia, twice a week each way in winter. Six hours' run by daylight. Head office, Toronto, Canada. Coastwise Steamers: The Herrera Line: all ports on north coast, Santiago, Santo Domingo, Porto Rico. Fre- quent sailings. Cuban Steamship Co.: Batabano to Santiago and inter- mediate ports. A Del Calado y Ca.: Steamers for Bahia Honda and north- west ports. Address, 1-3 Oficios, Havana. Isle of Pines, steamer leaves Batabano for Isle of Pines Sunday and Thursday; return Tuesday and Friday. Vuelta Abajo Steamship Company from Batabano, con- necting with United Railways, ports west of Batabano. Historical. On October 28, 1492, Cuba was discovered by Christopher Columbus, who landed on the north coast, probably at Gibara or Nipe, though his landfall is 1492 still a matter of dispute. He returned to the south coast of Cuba after he had colonised in Haiti, but did not found a settlement, and died in the belief that it was a continent. 140 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES This year Cuba was first circumnavigated, and its insular character ascertained. It was found well populated with Indians, of the same gentle nature, dusky red in 1508 hue, naked and inoffensive, that inhabited the Bahamas. Three years later, in 1511, Don Diego Velasquez sailed from the port of Santo Domingo for Cuba, with four ships and 300 men, sent out by Diego Columbus, son of 1511 Christopher, who was then governor. With him went Hernando Cortés, who afterward conquered Mexico. They first landed at a natural port on the south coast, which they called Las Palmas, or the Palms, not far from the present Guantanamo; but the first settlement was at Baracoa, on the north coast, in 1512. Velasquez then re- turned to the south coast, where he founded Bayamo, Trini- dad, and Batabano, finally settling at Santiago, in 1515. Cortés sailed for Mexico the same year that Havana was founded by transferring settlers from Batabano. The first landing-place here is now indicated by a small chapel 1519 called the templete and near it grows a scion of the original silk-cotton tree, beneath which a mass was said at the landing. Owing to its commanding position, Havana became a place-of-call for all ships passing through the Florida channel, and was called the “Key of the New World”; but its prosperity attracted also the buccaneers and pirates, who preyed upon Spanish commerce, a band of whom sacked the city. The King of Spain ordered two great castles to be built, the Bateria de la Punta and La Fuerza, or “Battery of the Point," and the "Fort,” which may still be seen in 1528 Havana, among the first objects to claim the stranger's attention. Together with the Morro, on the opposite side of the harbour, they effectually defended Havana-after they were finished; but this was not until nearly a century later, for when Sir Francis Drake threat- ened the city, in 1585 and 1592, and the Dutch buccaneers in 1628, they were still incomplete. Ponce de Leon, discoverer of Florida, was brought to Ha- vana in 1521, where he died from a wound caused by an Indian arrow. In 1528 Pamphilo de Narvaez outfitted here View near Kingston, Jamaica 20 SEKS OS X2 OSS FS SOS EXAS S 250 S SUS Port Maria Harbour, Jamaica THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 141 an expedition that passed through Florida and never re- turned. This year there sailed the largest expedi- 1539tion from Havana, that of De Soto, for Florida, which ended in his burial beneath the waters of the Mississippi. His wife, the Doña Isabel, was left at Havana, where she occupied the unfinished Fuerza, from the parapets of which she watched vainly, many months, the return of his ships, finally dying in despair. Santiago, Havana's chief rival, was also at the mercy of pirates in its early years, before the fortifications were com- pleted. That year a French privateer invaded the 1553 harbour, and for two days fought a Spanish cruiser there, the third night crawling out to sea and es- caping, though seriously crippled. In 1553 Santiago was taken by 400 French buccaneers, who held it a month, when $80,000 was paid for its ransom. Sir Francis Drake and other privateers frequently paid their compliments to the forts in passing, and it is a tradition that in the mud of the harbour lie the remains of a Spanish galleon that once formed part of the great Spanish Armada destroyed by the British in 1588. Santiago was held to be the capital of Cuba until 1608, when Havana was made the seat of government, which it has continued to be ever since. In 1534 and 1554 Havana was taken by the French, as well as by the Dutch in 1624; but the Spaniards regained it again by paying heavy ran- soms. Cuba was frequently invaded by foreigners at war with Spain, its coasts were so vulnerable and its cities so wealthy. In 1662 the English attacked Santiago with 800 1662-1762 men, and having taken the city carried off all its treasure, slaves, church-bells, and even the guns from the forts. The Morro was, however, rebuilt in 1663, and exists to-day, having survived the fire of Sampson's feet during the Spanish-American War. In 1762 the Spaniards lost possession of the island through the capture of Havana by the British under Lord Albemarle. They were assisted by Colonial troops from New England, among whom was “Old Wolf Putnam,” who commanded a regiment and helped capture a fort. Twenty years previ- ously George Washington's brother, Major Lawrence, was 142 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES in Lord Vernon's futile expedition off the south coast of Cuba, on his return from which he named his plantation after his commander-Mount Vernon. It cost the Ameri- can colonies of Great Britain, it is said, $16,000,000 and 30,000 lives, to acquire Cuba in 1762; but the next year it was exchanged for Florida, and the Spaniards held pos- session continuously thereafter, until expelled by American soldiers and sailors in 1898. Cuba continued to prosper for nearly a century, but during the first half of the nineteenth century were occasionally manifested signs of those disturbances which culminated in the rebellions of its latter half. Spanish cruelties, long- continued, brought about the eventual•loss of Cuba to the Spanish crown, and the wonder is that it remained loyal to Spain for nearly four centuries. The Spaniards found an Indian population here of perhaps a million; but the natives were soon exterminated, and negro slaves imported to take their place on the plantations. In the course of years this black population and allied mixtures became numerically larger than the white, but until 1866 remained in slavery. Owing to repeated outrages upon the people, and especially to Spanish official rapacity-nearly all the island's income going annually to Spain, or being absorbed by Spaniards in Cuba-a condition of unrest was developed which rose to the magnitude of rebellion about the middle of the last cen- tury. Perceiving the trend of affairs, the United States Senate, in 1845, discussed the possible purchase of Cuba, and in 1848 President Polk authorised the American Minister at Madrid to offer Spain $100,000,000 for the island. This offer was scornfully refused by Spain, and realising the hopelessness of their condition, the desperate Cubans made frequent but ineffectual efforts to obtain their freedom. A former Spanish soldier, Narciso Lopez, organised an expedition against Cuba for the purpose of exciting an in- surrection, landing at Cardenas with 600 men, May 1850-78 19, 1850. He was driven off, but returned the next August, with 450 men, was taken in battle, and executed in Havana. American adventurers also lost their lives in these attempts to arouse the Cubans to resist their op- pressors; but their blood was poured out in vain, for the THE GREAT CUBA RAILWAY 143 supine people had neither courage nor energy. After a while, however, native leaders rose to prominence, and fi- nally a rebellion broke out, in 1868, which lasted until 1878 before it was quelled. This was the “Ten Years' War,” which raged in the island with terrible ravage, and was ter- minated by a treaty, the Peace of Zanjón, which Spain soon after violated. Important reforms were promised by the Spanish Govern- ment, but never carried out, so that, after a few years, an- other revolutionary movement was organised by the 1892 old leaders, which eventuated in a determined effort for independence. It became so formidable in 1895 that Spain sent out General Campos to suppress it; but he was unsuccessful and in his place came "Butcher" Weyler next year. What followed is a matter of history so recent that it is hardly necessary to narrate it; but the chief scenes of the war will be depicted as they occur in the itinerary of travel through the island. The leaders were Gomez, Garcia, and the Maceos, who pursued their old tactics of guerrilla warfare, keeping the Spaniards continually alert, at one time coming close to the city of Havana, at another appearing in a remote province, but rarely engaging in actual battle. This mode of warfare went on during 1895, 1896 and 1897, during which “Butcher" Weyler was carrying out remorse- lessly his policy of extermination by starving the reconcen- trados in camps. He was recalled and superseded by Blanco; but his evil work went on, until the culmination of atrocities came in the blowing up of the American battleship, Maine, at her moorings in Havana harbour, February 15, 1898. Expulsion of the Spaniards. By that dastardly mas- sacre of 260 American officers and sailors, in the harbour of Havana, Spain shattered the fabric of officialdom 1898 in Cuba and caused the collapse of her government. By the intervention of the United States, and the short though bloody campaign that ensued, the Spaniards were driven from the island, and the Cuban patriots placed in possession of their own. The island of Cuba, which, a Spanish statesman had vauntingly declared, there was not money enough in the United States to purchase, within 100 days from the declaration of war was freed from the tyran- 144 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES nical power that had oppressed her for centuries, and by inidsummer, 1898, the Spanish soldiers were fugitives. By the terms of the Treaty of Peace, signed at Paris, De- cember 10, 1898, Cuba passed into the hands of the United States Government, and the first day of January, 1899, wit- nessed the departure of Blanco and all his soldiers for Spain. During the three years in which the United States had virtual possession of Cuba, administering her affairs through the War Department, great reforms were wrought 1899- and extensive iniprovements carried out, which have already resulted to the immeasurable benefit of the island. Roads were built; parks embellished; cities (like Havana and Santiago) cleansed, disinfected, and rid of yellow fever, which had never before been effected; schools established, and commerce assisted by a treaty which gave Cuba a great advantage over the United States. Mil- lions of dollars were poured into the island, as American blood had been poured out in its defence, so that the Cubans were in a better state than ever before, their neighbouring republic having sacrificed herself for their betterment. Their first President, Thomas Estrada Palma, was elected in Decem- ber, 1901, and on May 20, 1902, the United States formally withdrew; only to be recalled, however, in 1907, on account of hopeless disagreement between the political rulers.* The provisional government of the United States lasted until January 28, 1909, the anniversary of the birth of Jose Marti. Elections for President were held on August 1, 1908, and these resulted in the election of the Liberal candidates for President and Vice-President, General Jose Miguel Gomez, and Alfredo Zayas. They took office on October 1, 1908, and have remained in office since that time, although the govern- ment has not been without threatened revolutions and other difficulties. *A complete bibliography of Cuba would include scores of books, and cannot be given here. A magazine, the Cuba Review, published at 82 Beaver Street, New York, is devoted to the island's interests, and contains, in its monthly issues, many beautiful illustrations. Exquisitely illustrated "folders" are sent out by the United Rail- ways of Havana, the Central Railway, etc., while a local Guide, published by Foster and Reynolds, Havana, gives a vast amount of information. and by s. is. De United 29, wit- ers for ces had Chrough vrought which benefit -; cities and rid ffected; 7 which 5. Mil- merican Cubans bouring Their Decem- prmally account * The d until Marti. 08, and tes for Gomez, 108, and govern- d other f books, ublished nterests, trations. ed Rail- Guide zount of JAMAICA General Description. The island of Jamaica (685,000 population), which is still known by its aboriginal appella- tion, meaning a “land of springs and streams," lies almost due south of New York, from which it is distant about 1,500 miles; from England, southwest, about 5,000 miles; from Haiti, west, 100 miles; from Cuba, south, 90 miles; from Colon, northeast, 540 miles. It is surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, is 144 miles in greatest length, 49 in greatest breadth, and 21 in the narrowest part. It is divided into 3 counties, Surrey (in the east), Middlesex, and Cornwall (in the west); and 14 parishes, 7 of which bear the names of saints. Its total area is 4,207 square miles, equal to 2,692,587 acres, of which only about 646 square miles, or 413,440 acres, are level. The area under cultivation (1906) was 774,961 acres, of which nearly 60,000 acres were in bananas, 28,000 in coffee, 27,000 in sugar-cane, 10,000 in cocoanuts, and 6,000 in cacao. Sugar-cane cultivation has been largely superseded by fruits, especially bananas and oranges, of which 15,000,000 bunches of the former and 75,000,000 of the latter were exported in 1906, the bulk of both going to the United States. There is still a large amount of Crown land in the island, chiefly located on the hills and mountains, to the extent of 191,900 acres, which may be had at the almost nominal price of a pound sterling per acre. The best land, however, has long been under cultivation, the Crown lands being gener- ally situated at such a distance from towns and seaports as to be almost valueless for profitable culture. That Jamaica is a mountainous island may be seen at a glance, by the appended altitudes of a few peaks and passes. The highest is Blue Mountain Peak, 7,423 feet; Portland Gap is 5,549; Catherine's Peak, 5,036; Cinchona Plantation, 6,100; Cold Spring Gap, 4,523; Hardware Gap, 4,079; New- castle, 3,800; Mount Diablo, 2,300; Mandeville, 2,131 ; etc. Rivers and Springs are literally "too numerous for 146 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES mention,” yet too beautiful to be overlooked. The most in- teresting will be described as they are met with in the course of travel about the island; but the hot and mineral springs of Jamaica deserve especial prominence from the curative quali- ties of their waters. The warm salt spring at Milk River, parish of Clarendon, is called one of the most remarkable in the world. It is saline and purgative, with temperature of 92°, and remarkably efficacious in the cure of gout, rheuma- tism, paralysis and neuralgia. Equally famous, locally, is the hot sulphurous spring at Bath, in the parish of St. Thomas, with temperature at fountain-head of 126°, the waters of which are beneficial in gout, rheumatism, cutaneous affec- tions, and fevers. Remarkable in this connection is the fact that a spring of pure cold water gushes from the same hill- side. Public baths are maintained at both places, and suffer- ing humanity can obtain relief from some of its ills at a moderate charge for treatment. Very few of Jamaica's streams are navigable, the Black River and one other being exceptions, with about 25 miles of waterway capable of travel by boat. Most of them, descend- ing from the mountains, are short-lived and tumultuous, thus displaying many beautiful cascades and waterfalls, such as those of Roaring River in St. Ann's, the White River, etc., Some of them pursue a subterranean course for a distance, then emerge with considerable volume, perhaps to sink again, or finally lose themselves in the sea. Mineral Resources. The island has never been looked upon as possessing resources worth exploiting of this char- acter, but some gold, much copper, iron, lead, cobalt and manganese have been found, though not in quantities suffi- cient for profitable working. The Spaniards mined copper in the old days, and the bell from Port Royal, preserved in the Institute of Jamaica at Kingston, is said to have been cast from native copper. Caverns. Jamaica has no great caverns like those of Bellamar in Cuba, but in the limestone formation of the island are many caves and "sink-holes" that are quite re- markable. Two miles east of Dry Harbour, on the north coast, is a beautiful cave with grottoes, galleries and domes hung with stalactites; from Grand Cave, at River Head, JAMAICA 147 St. Thomas in ye Vale, the Rio Cobre emerges; at Mex- ico, in St. Elizabeth, is a cave nearly a mile in length; and the Peru Cave, in the same parish, is noted for its fine stalactites and stalagmites. Nearly every parish in the lime- stone portion of the island, in fact, can boast its cave, of greater or lesser dimensions, which in former times was the abode, or resort, of the Indians who inhabited here be- fore the Spaniards. Some of these caves contained most in- teresting remains of the aborigines, which were collected and exhibited in the Institute of Jamaica. Climate and Vegetation. As might be expected of an island in mid-tropics with several mountains more than a thousand feet in height, Jamaica possesses a great variety of climate. It varies, of course, with the altitude, the tem- perature at the sea-coast being from 70° to 85°, and in the mountains sometimes as low as 45° to 50°. The average temperature of Kingston, for a period extending over ten years, has been given as: minimum 70.7°, and maximum 87.8°. There is a decrease of about one degree for every 300 feet of altitude, and the mean register at Blue Mountain Peak, 7,360 feet above the sea, is 55.7°. Thus every variety of vegetation may be observed in Jamaica, including the palms and bananas of the coast, all the tropical and semi-tropical fruits and flowers, and many of the temperate zone. There are really here, as in Mex- ico, three different zones of vegetation, the hot, the warm or temperate, and the cold, each zone with its own vege- table forms, though merged in a vast and confusing dis- play, extending from coast to mountain-top. If one would see these varieties differentiated, he should visit such spots as the Hope and Castleton gardens, and the Government Plan- tation at Cinchona, the trio presenting a more varied display, probably, than any other group of botanical gardens equal in area. Exports, Imports, Revenues. The resources of Ja- maica are agricultural. With every kind of fertile soil, at every degree of altitude within the habitable zones, the island can produce anything earth can yield. Sugar is now grown more for the concomitant rum, perhaps, than for its own sweet self; but the rum has a fame second to no other in 148 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the world. Blue Mountain coffee, it is said, brings a higher price than any other; and if all tropical fruits were culti- vated with the attention that is now bestowed upon bananas, especially oranges, grape-fruit, shaddock and limes, mangos, avocado pears and guavas, in these industries Jamaica could lead most of the Caribbean Islands. Aside from comparatively small shipments of cigars, the bulk of Jamaica's exports are of natural products. They amounted, in the year 1905-6, to a little more than $10,000,- 000, of which the fruits, bananas and oranges, comprised about one-half, dye and cabinet woods one-sixth, coffee one-seventh, sugar one-eighth, rum one-tenth, and pimento one-eleventh, the remainder being miscellaneous products. The island imports all its manufactured products, much of its food-stuffs, and all its liquors (beer and spirits) save rum. From the manner in which the duties on imports are applied, the authorities evidently agree with the Frenchman who said that, given his luxuries, he could get along with- out the necessaries, for the former are taxed lightly, the lat- ter heavily. Imports in latter years have been about the same as the exports in value, and this agreeable condition is also manifest in the revenues and expenditures, the latter keeping just within the former. This happy state of affairs is, however, more apparent than actual, since the Home Gov- ernment pays a large portion of governmental expenses. Roads and Railways. No island in the West Indies, per- haps no country in the world, has a finer system of highways than Jamaica, for it boasts nearly 2,000 miles of excellent roadways, forming not only an enclosing chain around the island but a network throughout every habitable portion. On account of the conformation of the island, says the very excellent Handbook of Jamaica (which every intending visi- tor to the island should possess, by the way), the system of main roads, until comparatively recent years, consisted of a belt-line running round the island, with few exceptions along the sea-coast, with loop lines on the plains of St. Andrew, St. Catherine, and St. Elizabeth, and with three cross-connections from the south to the north: one by way of Stony Hill from Kingston to Annotto Bay; a second from Spanish Town to St. Ann's Bay, by way of Mount JAMAICA 149 Diablo; and the third from Savanna la Mar to Montego Bay, via Mackfield; crossing the central range of hills at ele- vations of about 1,350, 1,800, and 1,000 feet, respectively. Commencing at Kingston, the old system of main roads passed through all the principal ports and towns of the island. Founded on it as a basis there has been, either constructed as new roads, or more generally taken over as parochial roads and reconstructed, an extensive mileage of other roads, until the whole length of main roads aggre- gates at the present time about 1,930 miles. Nearly all are good driving roads, of a width nearly everywhere sufficient for a double line of traffic, and maintained in good condition. On some of them heavy gradients are to be encountered, but not sufficient to prevent their being “negotiated" by automobiles or motor cars, and, while some streams must be forded, most of them are spanned by bridges of solid con- struction. Some of these roads attain to respectable alti- tudes, as the road over the Santa Cruz mountains, a height of 2,200 feet at Malvern; that from Shooter's Hill to Ulster Springs, in Manchester, 3,000 feet; up the Blue Mountain Valley, in St. Thomas, 2,750 feet; while the new road from Gordon Town via Newcastle to Buff Bay, at Hardware Gap touches 4,000 feet. Jamaica's Railway System. Jamaica has the longest sys- tem of railways in the West Indies, next to Cuba, as fol- lows: Kingston to Montego Bay, traversing three-fifths of the island, 113 miles; Kingston to Ewarton, 29 miles, and Kingston to Port Antonio, on the northeast coast, 7472 miles. The fares are: first-class twopence (or four cents) per mile, and third-class one penny (or two cents) a mile. This sys- tem was more than fifty years in building, having been com- menced in 1845, and finished in 1896. At first a govern- ment property, it was transferred to private ownership, then again reverted to the Jamaican government, in whose pos- session it remains to-day. 150 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES RAILWAY TIME TABLE MONTEGO BAY LINE Trains from Kingston Daily, except | Daily, except | Daily, except Sunday Sunday Sunday N 7.40 a.m. 7.57 4.15 p.m. 4.32 " 8.05 4. OO OO OO OO OOO 5.02 5.14 10.45 a.m. 11.05 11.13 11.24 II.34 II.46 I1.56 12.22 p 12.34 12.51 1.05 1.35 1.46 2.13 9.10 5. 9.28 9.46 Kingston..... Gregory Park... Grange Lane. Spanish Town. Hartlands...... Bushy Park..... Old Harbour .. May Pen... Four Paths.... Clarendon Park. Porus ..... Williamsfield... Kendal ..... Greenvale .... Balaclava..... Appleton. .... Ipswich ....... Catadupa...... Cambridge ... Montpelier..... Anchovy ...... Montego Bay... 6. Arr. 9.58 6.31 7.00 Arr. 7.08 į Wednes- 15 day only? 2.55 3.23 3.59 4.31 4.51 8.10 a.m. 8.36 8.50 Arr. 9.15 " 5.17 5.30 Arr. 5.55 Trains to Kingston Wednesdays only | Daily, except Sunday Daily, except Sunday 4.20 p.m. 4.47 7.45 a.m. 8.11 5.10 OOOOO d ..... Arr. 5.28 " . Daily, ex- | cept Sunday 1 . 6.oo a.m. Montego Bay.. Anchovy...... Montpelier.... Cambridge..... Catadupa ..... Ipswich...... Appleton. .... Balaclava..... Greenvale Kendal.. Williamsfield. Porus ............. Clarendon Park ... Four Paths... May Pen....... Old Harbour .. Bushy Park.... Hartlands........ Spanish Town.... Grange Lane .... Gregory Park .... Kingston...... 10.20 10.49 II.30 11.56 12.11 p.m. 12.37 12.57 1.II 6.12 6.38 3.30 p.m . 3.46 0 4. 4. 7.21 7.48 7.56 4.40 NO No 00 00 00 5. O0O- ANAH ON 5. 5:31 5.39 2.49 Arr. 3.05 Arr. 5.55 JAMAICA PORT ANTONIO LINE AND Ewarton BRANCH Trains from Kingston Daily, except Sunday Daily, except Sunday Saturdays Sundays only only Sundays only 2.20 p.m . 2.15 p.m. 2.32 2.40 2.51 2. 37 7.00 a.m. 7.17 7.25 7.36 8.01 8.22 3.16 3:37 3.55 4.18 4.00 incono co does 4.47 A1 Kingston..... Gregory Park ... Grange Lane .... Spanish Town.. Bog Walk.. Riversdale.... Troja........ Richmond... Albany......... Annotto Bay.... Buff Bay....... Orange Bay .... Hope Bay..... St. Margaret's Bay. Port Antonio..... Kingston......... Gregory Park ... Grange Lane .... Spanish Town... Bog Walk........ Linstead ......... Ewarton..... 8 5.13 5.39 mm i divinino oo 8.36 a.m. 10.26 10.36 10.52 " " 8.42 9.04 9.16 5 € " " 111.03 9.35 11.22 Arrive 6.40 Arrive 7.40 a 2.15 p.m. 2.32 2.40 8.23 8.48 WWNNN 2.51 " 9.00 3.18 3.40 4.00 " € 9.15 Trains to Kingston Daily, except Sunday Daily, 1: except Sunday Saturdays Sundays Sundays only only only a.m. 7.00 7.20 7.31 7.47 7.57 4.20 p.m. 6.00 a.m. 4.41 16.20 4.53 5.10 5.19 2.00 p.m. 2.20 2.31 2.47 2.57 3.24 3.49 4.21 NOOOOO Port Antonio ... St. Margaret's Bay. Hope Bay ......... Orange Bay..... Buff Bay...... Annotto Bay Albany......, Richmond. Troja....... Riversdale... Bog Walk........ Spanish Town... Grange Lane.... Gregory Park ... Kingston ....... Ewarton. Linstead...... Bog Walk Spanish Town... Grange Lane..... Gregory Park ... Kingston......... Govoosno 00 00 odogo: 5.23 46 5.48 5.57 6.05 6.21 Arrive 9.42 a.m. 10.07 10.22 10.46 10.56 11.04 11.20 4.20 4:38 4.53 5.22 5.31 5.39 10.56 11.04 11.20 5.55 152 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Mail Coaches. Mail coaches run from Kingston to all principal places that are not reached by rail, usually three times a week, the fares being reasonable, and the personal luggage of each passenger limited to twenty pounds. It is cheaper to travel by stage-coach than by private carriage, the general charge for which, with two horses, is a pound (or $5) per day for long distances. An arrangement can be made with the livery-stable keeper, by which either he or the hirer shall pay the cost of feeding the driver and horses. The driver's food costs about is. 6d. per day, or 36 cents, and feed for the horses according to the local current rate for grass and corn; but it is not high. In addition, there are the Coastal Steamers, both of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Line and the Imperial Direct West Indies Mail Service Company, which follow approxi- mately the schedule below : Leave Kingston Monday evening. Arrive Alligator Pond, 6 A.M. Tuesday. Black River, 10 A.M. Tuesday. Savanna la Mar, 3 P.M. Tuesday.. Lucea, 6 A.M. Wednesday. Montego Bay, 10 A.M. Wednesday. Falmouth, 2 P.M. Wednesday. Dry Harbour, 6 P.M. Wednesday. St. Ann's Bay, II A.M. Thursday. Port Maria, 2 P.M. Thursday. Port Antonio, 7 P.M. Thursday. Morant Bay, 6 A.M. Friday. Port Morant, noon Friday. eave Port Maria, 8 A.M. Saturday. ? Ocho Rios, noon Saturday. St. Ann's Bay, 2 P.M. Saturday. Dry Harbour, 5 P.M. Saturday. Rio Bueno, 9 A.M. Monday, . Falmouth, II A.M. Monday. Montego Bay, 2 P.M. Monday. Lucea, 4 P.M. Monday. Savanna la Mar, 10 A.M. Tuesday. Black River, I P.M. Tuesday. Alligator Pond, 5 P.M. Tuesday. Kingston (arrive) at noon Wednesday. The fare round the island-a most delightful voyage, with magnificent scenery all the way-is only £3, first-class. JAMAICA 153 Steamship Lines. United States and Jamaica: United Fruit Company (30 steamers), weekly sailings, between Port Antonio and New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and Balti- more. Time, four to five days. Winter rates: one way, $45, return $80. Summer rates: one way $40; round trip $65. Hamburg-American, Atlas Service, weekly, between Jamaica and New York; also excursions during winter. Rates: one way $45, return $85 on the large steamers; on the smaller steamers, one way $35; return $54. Time, five to six days. Royal Mail, Kingston and New York; every two weeks. Time and rates same as above. England and Jamaica. Royal Mail, Southampton and Kingston, fortnightly; fine fleet, oldest established (1845). “Rates on application.” Imperial Direct West India Mail, Bristol and Kingston, fortnightly sailings each way. Fares: singly £18 to £25, re- turn £32 to £40. Summer rates greatly reduced. Voyage about twelve days. Leyland Line, Liverpool and Kingston, via (out) St. Thomas and Colon, time about twenty days; thence to Vera Cruz and New Orleans, time twenty days. Fare, one way, £20. Europe and Jamaica. The Hamburg-American Line, cargo boat, monthly, from and to Hamburg and Havre. Canadian Lines. The Halifax and West India Co., from and to Halifax, via Turks Island and Bermudas; monthly. Fare: one way $50; return $80. Canada and Jamaica Steamship Co., twice a month, between Halifax and Kingston, irregularly touching at Santiago de Cuba and Guantanamo. Kingston, the Capital. The city of Kingston, seat of government and commercial port of Jamaica, was practically destroyed by the dreadful earthquake and fire of January, 1907. Though it possessed few structures of architectural inerit, yet it was an important, and in many respects attrac- tive, city; depending, however, upon its situation and sur- roundings for the latter feature. Together with its suburbs, it covered an area of about a thousand acres on the Liguanea Plain, and occupied the northern shore of a magnificent harbour. It was the largest city in the British West Indies, 154 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES having a population of about 50,000, and second only to Ha- vana, Cuba, in wealth and importance. Its streets ran east and west, parallel with the shore, and north and south at right angles to it. King Street, one of the latter, was the exact centre of the town, and was crossed by Queen Street, each being 66 feet in width. At their intersection was a park or garden of 10 acres, which was formerly a plaza or parade- ground, at the time of the disaster possessing a fountain and filled with beautiful trees and shrubbery. At the foot of King Street was the great Market, named in honour of Queen Victoria, and northwest of the Parade Ground stood the Jubilee Market, which was dedicated in 1887, in com- memoration of the fiftieth year of her accession. Both were amply supplied with all the products of the tropics, and were extremely interesting to tourists as gathering-places of pic- turesque natives from the interior. The streets were almost Oriental in their aspect and colouring, being filled with a varied and multicoloured populace, comprising coolies from the East Indies, Chinese, Cubans, Spaniards, and travellers from every quarter of the globe. For a place of its size, Kingston was extremely cosmopolitan, and as it was well supplied with hotels, lighted by electricity and gas, and traversed by electric trams, it was fast becoming a favourite resort (as it was already the commercial emporium of Jamaica), when its prosperous career was so swiftly arrested by the earthquake shock and by fire. As in the old days its sister city of Port Royal compelled tribute from all Caribbean commerce (by means of its cor- sairs), so in times recent Kingston took toll from modern vessels on their way to or from the Isthmus and the Spanish Main, in addition supplying them with freights from the products of the island. As a "half-way port" between New York and Colon, it was, and always will be, of vast im- portance to the United States. Harbour Street, skirting the shore, was lined with large wholesale houses and steam- ship offices, which did business with all Europe and America. Owing to their connections with other countries, fast freights and low duties, they could supply provisions, liquors, and manufactured goods at prices which defied competition, so that Kingston was unsurpassed as an outfitting station for Castleton Gardens, Jamaica Hanover Street, Kingston (After the Earthquake) JAMAICA 155 naval and merchant ships of every class. These advantages inured to the benefit of the island, also, and “living” in general was, and is, cheaper here than in many other places, depending, however, upon the manner of living. The government headquarters were on Duke Street, at the Colonial Secretary's office, but the governmental resi- dence is at the “King's House," set in attractive grounds a few miles from town. The city boasted two banks, the Colonial on Harbour Street, and the Nova Scotia on Port Royal Street; a well-equipped post-office in its own building, corner of Duke and Harbour streets; a telegraph office, with cable connections all over the world; a Jamaica Club, on Hanover Street, to which strangers with credentials were sure of a welcome; a Royal Yacht Club, in the east end, at Rae's Town; numerous churches of every denomination, a theatre, schools, and colleges. The most interesting of the ecclesiastical structures was the old Parish Church, which was built soon after the destruc- tion of Pori Royal. It was rudely shaken by the earthquake, its tower rent, and its walls impaired. Within it hung the tattered banners once borne by victorious warships in the olden days, and near the altar is a black marble slab with the following inscription: "Here lyeth interred the body of John Benbow, Esq., Ad- miral of the White, a true pattern of English courage, who lost his life in defence of his Queen and Country, November ye 4th, 1702, in ye 52d year of his age, by a wound in his legge, received in an engagement with Mons. Du Casse. Much lamented.” Taken together with its suburbs and the more ancient Span- ish Town, Kingston can offer many a memorial to brave British sea-dogs, such as Rodney and Nelson, and was also the residence of some other worthies, as, for instance, the author of Tom Cringle's Log, Michael Scott, who lived at a "pen” not far from town. One of the old houses on North Street cherished a tradition that from its windows a since- reigning king, then a prince, cast some of its furniture into the highway, after a hilarious "night of it" with boon com- panions. At the time of his visit to Kingston, it is also 156 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES related, one of the belles was so embarrassed when he asked her to dance with him that she stammered: “Thank you, Mr. Wales”! But these houses are gone, and only the tradi- tions remain; though Kingston may - certainly will — rise “phenix-like” from her ashes. The Institute of Jamaica. On East Street, not far from the Myrtle Bank Hotel, stood a structure which, though of modern erection, embodied in its contents Jamaica's past history, so far as man could ascertain. It held the museum and library of the Institute of Jamaica, the latter containing nearly a thousand vol- umes “dealing exclusively with Jamaica,” and probably the finest collection of Jamaicana in the world; the former “aiming at representing the fauna, flora, geology and anthro- pology of the island as completely as possible.” The library numbered in all about 11,000 volumes, while the collection of nature-objects was probably the best in the West Indies. Relief-maps showed the configuration of the island at a glance, and the collection of celts, pottery and other objects of native workmanship illustrated the handi- crafts of the Arawaks, or primitive dwellers in Jamaica, be- fore the advent of the Spaniards. An art gallery contained portraits of old governors and other worthies once resident here, and besides there were some "curios” of historical importance, such as the old bell from Port Royal, maces used by the legislative assembly in the eighteenth century, and a bundle of papers taken from the maw of a shark. The old bell once hung in the church at Port Royal, destroyed by the earthquake of 1692, and built in part with contributions from pirates like the great buc- caneer, Sir Henry Morgan. The "shark papers," as they were called, once pertained to an American privateer, the captain of which, when hard-pressed by a British cruiser, threw them overboard, as incriminating evidence, should he be captured. He was captured, in fact, taken into Port Royal, and placed on trial for his life. He was about to be discharged from lack of evidence, when into port sailed another British cruiser, the crew of which had caught a shark off the coast of Haiti, from whose maw they had taken those veritable papers. They were taken to court, JAMAICA 157 and crew and captain were condemned, solely upon the evi- dence they afforded. While the Jamaica Institute collections and library were damaged, the most important still remain; and there is con- solation in the fact that its learned secretary, Mr. Frank Cundall, F.S.A., has written several monographs on them. In his Jamaica in 1905, Biographical Annals, and Sculpture in Jamaica, all books of great merit, he has preserved much of historical value that would otherwise have been lost to the world. Mention should be made of one other "specimen” con- tained in the museum, if only for the sidelight it throws upon "man's inhumanity to man," in the days to which it belonged. This is an iron cage, or gibbet, in which crimi- nals were suspended when condemned to death. It was made to fit around the body, with stirrups for the feet in which were spikes, so that the occupant could not stand upon them without suffering excruciating pain. It was suspended aloft, where all might see, and sometimes criminals confined therein were nine or ten days in dying, as verified by the island's historian, Bryan Edwards, who once witnessed an execution of this sort. Environs of Kingston. While somewhat unattractive in itself, Kingston possesses a beautiful birthright in its environment of hills and mountains, in its groves of cocoas, giant ceiba trees, and luxuriant gardens. The electric tramway leads to several interesting points, such as the Race Course and Up-Park Camp, starting at Harbour Street. One of the quaint places it passes through is the village of Half-Way Tree, about 3 miles from the city, famous for its fine parish church, in the churchyard of which lie the remains of a brother of W. H. Harrison, a former President of the United States. The road is usually dusty, but is lined with the residences of Kingston's better classes, who entertain royally after the day's business is over, and take great pleasure in welcoming visiting friends to their "pens,” or little country places. Half-Way Tree is about half-way from Kingston to the Constant Spring Hotel, situated at the foot of the Blue Mountain range and 600 feet above the sea. It is a magnificent structure, three 158 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES stories in height and with 400 feet of frontage. It has ac- commodations for 300 guests, and the management, con- trolled by Elder, Dempster & Co., is unsurpassed. King's House. One of the finest residences in Jamaica is (as it should be, of course) the official dwelling-place of the Governor-General, known as King's House. It is situated about 5 miles from Kingston, and 2 beyond Half-Way Tree; but cannot be reached directly by trolley, so a carriage must be hired for the trip. The first duty of every visitor to Jamaica should be the paying of his respects to the Governor- General of the island, whose office is in the city, but who receives and entertains at King's House. The residence is beautifully set amid gardens of tropical trees and shrubs, is large, roomy and comfortable, with a ball-room that cost $25,000 added to the original structure a few years ago. Its long and wide verandas are enclosed within jalousies, through which the wind, but not the sun, can find its way, thus bestowing coolness throughout the house. It was badly damaged by the earthquake, which left, as the only habitable portion, the private secretary's bungalow. Hope and Castleton Gardens. Two important botanical stations are accessible from Kingston at small expense, the nearer of which, Hope Gardens, is only 5 miles distant. It is reached by tram-car, fare fourpence (8 cents), by car- riage conveying three passengers (16 shillings, or $4, with driver, out and back). Hope Gardens, elevation 700 feet, were first started as a small nursery, and gradually extended until to-day they comprise 220 acres of lawns, ornamental and experimental plants, in one of the finest situations imagi- nable. The superintendent of gardens and experimentation, as also the director of the botanical department, reside here, besides a staff of assistants and collectors, who have ex- tended their botanising explorations nearly all over the isl- and. Even yet, they say, there is much territory not thor- oughly covered, and Jamaica, possessing 2,300 known species of indigeneous and naturalised plants, is still a promising field for the botanist. Every native plant known to Jamaica, and most exotics that can be acclimatised here, are found growing luxuriantly, arranged in clumps and borders, with an eye to effect as well as utility. There are two entrances JAMAICA 159 from the electric line, with short walk or drive, to the heart of the garden, which, to be “done” satisfactorily, demands time, and a carriage should be taken to avoid heat and fatigue. No better opportunity can be afforded for obtain- ing an intimate acquaintance with tropical horticulture and botany in general. If one wishes to see an "old-time" plantation, such as Jamaica boasted in its palmy days of high prices for prod- ucts raised by slave labour, a visit should be paid the Mona Sugar Estate, about half an hour's drive from Hope. It is irrigated with water from the Hope River, which also supplies power to the machinery used for grinding cane, etc. Castleton Gardens, which were established by govern- ment nearly fifty years ago, are distant from Kingston 19 miles, necessitating an all-day excursion for the drive thither, tarry, and return. The start should be made at or near sunrise, to avoid the heat and dust of the first few miles, after which the roads are shaded with forest trees, and the increasing altitude makes the air cool and refreshing. The highway has a superb roadbed; buttressed bridges span pic- turesque streams, like the foaming Wag Water River, which supplies water for extensive works, and at Castleton flows through a deep valley enclosed by mountains clothed in rich- est vegetation. From the summit of Stony Hill, on the road thither, glorious views are outspread, and if one were able to take but this ride alone, it would fully warrant a voyage to Jamaica for the purpose. The average elevation of Castleton is about 500 feet above sea-level, the mean temperature 75°, and the annual rainfall 100 inches. The English Government provided the garden, wisely locating it in the choicest spot for the purpose to be found in the island, and to catalogue the fruits, flowers, shrubs, and trees, the ferns (nearly 500 species in the island), bamboos, palms, and economic plants found here, would be merely to enumerate all that the tropics afford in floral and arboreal wealth. The gardens are easily reached from Kingston, as stated, the cost of a double buggy, with driver, being about 30 shil- lings, or, in round numbers, $7.50, for three persons. Ar- bours, benches, resting-places beneath bamboos and palms; 160 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES bowers of vines, and even bathing-pools with cool depths most temptingly alluring within the tropical shrubbery, abound on every hand. Nature did her utmost to provide an entic- ing spot, and that man has proved appreciative, the many artificial adornments show. Before the building of the rail- road from Kingston to San Antonio, an attractive location was secured from the government by the United Fruit Com- pany, which erected here several cottages, an inn, and din- ing-hall, so that visitors could be entertained at reasonable rates and fully enjoy the many attractions of this beautiful spot. The hotel here fully sustains its formal reputation. Gordon Town and Newcastle. A delightful short drive from Kingston is that to Gordon Town, 9 miles distant, and 960 feet above the sea. The electric cars run as far as Papine Corners (one fare), whence a double buggy for three persons, with driver, costs 8 shillings, or $2. One might walk it from the car-line terminal, especially if an early start be made, and all the way the trip would be enjoyable. Dust and heat are left behind with departure from the city, and the road lies along the banks of noisy and picturesque Hope River, from which Kingston obtains a portion of its pure water supply. The tropical trees keep pace with the traveller as he climbs upward, filling every ravine, lining the roadside, and adorning every ridge. Agaves and other flowering plants give colour to the picture, and mile-long vines festoon the gray cliffs with star-like flowers. Gordon Town is a hamlet of country cottages, where Kingston people rest at night, and whence they descend in the morn- ing, refreshed, to their daily labours in the sweltering city. Originally the centre of coffee and cacao cultivation, or rather trade, the plantations that surround, and the hun- dred hills beyond it, find their outlet here. A little inn and several restaurants afford refreshment for the visitor. Two roads conduct to Newcastle, the old military canton- ments of which are situated at an altitude of 3,900 feet above the sea. From Papine to Newcastle, by driving road, a double buggy holding three persons besides driver costs 30 shillings. A pony may be hired at Gordon Town for the trip to Newcastle and return for 10 shillings. Either way, the route is picturesque, and from the trail, as it constantly JAMAICA 161 ascends, most glorious views are outspread. The trip, in fact, is from tropic to temperate region, for the vegetation gradually changes as the high altitudes are reached. “Deli- cious" is the word that best describes the scenery along the trail, winding as it does by the banks of tinkling streams with water so cool and clear that it seems as if the speckled trout must haunt there. The first barracks are found at an elevation of 3,900 feet, but the officers' quarters-cottages hung with vines, and with gardens of English flowers and vegetables are still higher up. The view, from barracks or quarters, is glorious be- yond the power of words to describe, for it comprises Kingston, its plain and harbour, Port Royal, the curving Palisadoes, and more than a hundred miles of coast-line with its bordering ocean. Here for many years it has been the custom to quarter the troops, and though the isolation is said to have had a sad effect upon them, their general health was perfect. Since the English troops have been withdrawn from the island, the place is left almost deso- late, but will always be a resort of tourists, who will view with wonder the works of the Almighty, and ponder upon the engineering feats which overcame difficulties that at first glance seem insuperable. One may ascend higher yet, to St. Catherine's Peak, 5,000 feet above the sea, as the path leading thither is not difficult, and the view, which has been pronounced one of the finest in the island, will well repay the exertion. In making this Newcastle trip, Kingston or Gordon Town should be left at or near sunrise, and a well-stocked hamper should be provided for an all-day expedition. Provision should also be made against a wetting, as clouds are con- stantly forming among the peaks, and passing showers drop from them without warning. Cinchona-Coffee Plantations. The "most delicious cof- fee in the world” is grown among the hills beyond Gor- don Town—the famed “High Mountain berry”—and the estates which produce it may be visited by permission, two of the most notable being the Newton and the Chestervale. By writing or telephoning ahead to the managers, a party may be met at Gordon Town with ponies for the trip. Newton 162 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES estate house is at 4,400 feet above the sea, and aside from the beauty of the scenery en route, with a peerless view at the end of the journey, there will be an interesting experience in store for one on the plantation, and at the "works,” where the berry is prepared for shipment. A luncheon should be taken along. The Government Cinchona Plantation, on the slopes of the Blue Mountains, is about 20 miles from Kingston, and 12 from Gordon Town, where ponies may be obtained for the trip, which should consume not less than two days. Per- mission should be sought from the Director of Public Gar- dens. If but one day is allowed for the journey (for which hire of pony is 10 shillings) an early start should be made, as the paths are steep, and at least three hours will be con- sumed each way. Cinchona, as its name implies, was an ex- periment in the cultivation of the tree of that name for its bark. At first it was profitable, the government realising enough from sales to more than repay the original outlay; but as the price of bark fell the cultivation was discontinued, and the plantation has fallen into decay. There is a fine garden here and a very comfortable house at the service of the superintendent. The climate is salubrious, delicious, the temperature rarely rising to 76°, and in the winter dropping to 45°; while fires and blankets at night are sometimes a necessity. While Hope and Castleton are experimental plantations for the introduction and propagation of purely tropical products, Cinchona may be said to be devoted to those from temperate regions, or at least from high altitudes where the climate is temperate, for not only cinchona, but many vegetables which cannot be grown in the hot region, flourish exceed- ingly. The writer has picked strawberries here in midwinter (which can only be grown in a cool country) and seen such vegetables as potatoes, cabbages, turnips, carrots, beets and peas, in the mountain gardens, while the grass is always a vivid green, the turf soft and elastic to the tread. Entrancing views are afforded from various points on the plantation, while the ravines, through which flow sparkling streams of clear cool water, are filled with tree-ferns of luxuriant growth. JAMAICA 163 Blue Mountain Peak. Cinchona lies about midway be- tween St. Catherine's and Blue Mountain Peak, which lat- ter, 7,423 feet in altitude, is the highest point in the island, and the highest easily-accessible mountain in the West Indies—that is, accessible without extraordinary labour, and “negotiable” by the average tourist, even by ladies. If you can take but one extensive trip in this island, by all means let it be that to Blue Mountain Peak, which is well worth, says one enthusiastic traveller, not only the effort of the ascent, but the voyage to Jamaica, as well. Every variety of adjective used in description would be necessary to portray the beauties of this glorious trip; but, to get down to prosaic details: Take trolley from Kings- ton to Papine Corners, 6 miles, carriage thence to Gordon Town, 3 miles, where ponies can be obtained (20 shillings for the entire trip) for Whitfield Hall, 12 miles, where a stay overnight should be made, and thence next morning to the Peak, a distance of 5 miles, “almost perpendicular !” This total of 52 miles will include an epitome of Jamaica's best views (for more than half the island can be seen from the Peak) and its finest coffee estates. The bridle-path zigzags over ridges and into deep valleys, passing through the heart of the coffee region, and, as the upper elevations are gained, through vast beds of wild flowers such as are seen in Northern countries only, in hot- houses cherished as choice exotics. Guava Ridge, the first be- yond Gordon Town, is 2,860 feet high; Farm Hill, 3,890; and Whitfield Hall, where the night may be passed, 4,040. Portland Gap, beyond, is 5,549 feet above the sea, and the hut on the Peak 7,443. While some hardy travellers choose to pass the night on the Peak (and if this be done, blankets and cooking utensils should form part of the equip- ment, as well as a mule for transport), it will be wiser to rest at Whitfield Hall, a quaint old manor-house built, it is said, more than 200 years ago. Oddly enough, this ideal resi- dence so near the clouds has been (and we hope still is) oc- cupied by Captain Heaven, whose ancestor built the original structure. So paradisiacal is the situation, with its cool climate, tropical environment, and entrancing scenery, that 164 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES “Heaven Hall” would not be an inappropriate name for this old manor house. The sun catches the mountain-peaks early at that altitude, and a start should be made at daybreak, even if the morning be cold and rainy. The ascent is steep, but the trail is safe, so that one may leave the pony to pick his way, and freely admire the great tree-ferns, the shell-tinted begonias, the vine-hung forest trees that line the path, until the Peak is nearly reached. Arrived there, you will admit that mere words cannot do justice to the glorious view outspread on every side, for half the island is visible, ringed about by the blue sea, with vast forests intervening. Sometimes the mist rolls in and hides the lower elevations, so that the observer standing on the Peak is, in a double sense, upon a sea-sur- rounded island, environed not only by the Caribbean, but by the clouds. As already stated, there is a hut on the Peak, which was built by the Jamaica Government; but it is scantily furnished, and some inconvenience may be felt by those whose enthu- siasm leads them to tarry there for the purpose of witness- ing the sunrise. Still, the sunrise is a glorious spectacle, and certainly worth a single night's discomfort for the purpose of observing what may never occur to one again in a life- time.* Port Royal. The harbour of Kingston, 10 miles long and 2 broad, is protected from the waves of the open sea by the Palisadoes, a stretch of sand crowned by cocoa-palms 8 miles in length. It is a royal place for yachtsmen and for boating generally, while the sea-front of the Palisadoes offers facilities for surf-bathing that are unsurpassed; though strangers should not venture far beyond the rollers. Within the harbour good fishing may be had, and small boats, with native fishermen, are numerous and obliging. Sharks are sometimes found outside the harbour, and alligator shooting within, not far from the city, at Hunt's Bay. A small steamer plies between Kingston and Port Royal, *Information as to this trip, as also of any other to be made in the island, may be obtained of the Jamaica Tourist Information Bureau, 128 Harbour Street, Kingston. This is given gratuitously, and visitors may have their correspondence addressed to the Bureau without charge. JAMAICA 165 and numerous sailing-craft, so it is very convenient of ac- cess and the trip is quickly made. Since its abandonment as a dockyard, with an admiral in headquarters here, Port Royal has languished, and the 'quake of 1907 put the "fin- ishing touches” to a place that lost nearly 3,000 houses in the catastrophe of 1692, which was possibly more disastrous than the last one. Then “the whole island felt the shock," says the historian. "Chains of hills were riven asunder; new chan- nels formed for rivers; mountains dissolved with a mighty crash, burying alive the people of adjacent valleys; whole settlements sank into the bowels of the earth; plantations were removed en masse, and all the sugar-works destroyed. In fact, the entire outline of Jamaica was drawn afresh, and the eleva- tion of the surface was considerably diminished. The sen- tence of desolation was thus, however, but partially fulfilled, for a noxious miasma, generated by the shoals and putrefying bodies that floated about the harbour of Port Royal, or lay in heaps in the suburbs, slew thousands of the survivors." Associated as it is with the early history of Jamaica, and, in the heyday of its existence, the only place of importance in the island, Port Royal is fascinatingly interesting. Hither came the Spanish conquistadores, followed by the Eng- lish conquerors, who took the island from them. In the latter part of the seventeenth century Port Royal was the rendezvous of pirates and buccaneers, who brought here such vast treasure that it was noted as one of the richest cities of the world. In the height of its ill-gotten prosperity it was destroyed by the 'quake of 1692, and, as a city, disap- peared from the map. Some of its buildings may yet be seen beneath the water, when the surface is smooth; but Port Royal itself never recovered from the blow. Hardly enough now remains, in fact, for a description that would be recognisable by one who knew it at the end of the last century, for the shock of 1907 inflicted its coup de grâce, as it were. Fort Victoria, one of the most powerful bat- teries in America, and which was equipped with heavy mod- ern guns but a few years before the last disaster, sank nearly 10 feet into the water; a slice of land which formed part of the park to the south of the garrison disappeared entirely, and above the officers' tennis court the tops of cocoanut trees 166 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES alone remained above the water, the sea having invaded the place, as it had a little more than two centuries before. All the European troops quartered at Port Royal were withdrawn, and “Finis” was practically written upon the gateway to the old fort. The most important structure in Port Royal—if a recur- rence of seismic activity has not destroyed it since these lines were written-is the old church, to which, says a local writer, a melancholy interest attaches, especially “to the monumental marbles and imperishable brasses which bear the record of distinguished services ly sea and land, and pre- serve the memory of officers who had formerly served with distinction on this station. The town proper is a mere ag- gregation of small houses, not always in the best repair, inhabited by the employees of the dockyard, and fishermen, who earn a precarious livelihood by supplying the wants of the garrison with their harvests from the deep.” There is material here for another race of buccaneers, who, with much greater show of reason than their predecessors, might take to the sea against legitimate commerce; but alas ! times have so changed that there is now no chance for an- other Sir Henry Morgan or Lollonnois to rise to eminence in this profession! Opposite Port Royal, on the landward side of the harbour, we find the obsolete Apostles' Battery, so called because of the twelve huge cannon that formed its armament. At- tempts have been made to strengthen it, as well as the other forts commanding the harbour; but the millions here ex- pended have been worse than thrown away, since the works are in danger of being overthrown in a moment of time by forces which man cannot withstand. Not far from Kings- ton, on this shore at Green Bay, is an ancient cemetery, where may be found the tomb of a man who was buried by the 'quake of 1692, and yet lived long afterward. The in- scription tells the story: "Here lyes the Body of Lewis Galdy Esqre., who departed this life at Port Royal, the 22d December, 1739, aged 80. He was born at Montpelier, France, but left that country for his Religion and came to settle in this Island, where he was swallowed up in the great Earthquake in the year 1692, and JAMAICA 167 by the Providence of God was by another shock thrown into the sea, and miraculously saved by swimming until a boat took him up. He lived many years afterwards in great Repu- tation, beloved by all who knew him, and much Lamented at his death." Gallows Point. It is said that the sole relic of Port Royal before the 'quake of 1692 is old Fort Charles, a solid bit of masonry; but a reminder of the buccaneering period is afforded in Gallows Point, which juts out from the green mangroves as the harbour is approached. Here were exe- cuted the last of the pirates who haunted the lagoons of Cuba and Jamaica, and other “gentlemen of the sea” who proved obnoxious to law-abiding citizens. Readers of that fascinating book, Tom Cringle's Log, may recall the vivid account therein, when sixteen Cuban pirates were swung off at one time. This was in 1823, and they are said to have been the last of their kind who suffered the dread penalty at this place. Spanish Town. One of the most interesting trips the island affords, and also easily accomplished, is that over the Government Railway from Kingston to Montego Bay, at the northwest end of the island. The distance between termini is 113 miles, and if one were to stop off at all the points of interest, “doing" them thoroughly, a week might be con- sumed in the journey. There are more than thirty stations on the road, the first of which is Gregory Park, 61/2 miles from Kingston, a shipping-point for bananas and oranges, which grow luxuriantly in this section. Grange Lane, 9 miles, is situated on a plain made extraordi- narily fertile by the government irrigation system, the canals of which, lined with the lush vegetation of the tropics—co- coas, bananas, cacao, etc.-run parallel with the track. At about 12 miles' distance from Kingston lies Spanish Town, which is important as a railway centre (as the Port Antonio line branches off here), and historically as a place of older foundation than either Kingston or Port Royal. It was founded about 1520, on the site it still occupies, and called Santiago de la Vega, or St. James of the Plain. Taking a 'bus at the station (fare 6 d.), the visitor soon finds him- self at the central square, or plaza, around which, as in all 168 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Spanish towns, the principal municipal buildings were origi- nally grouped, and are to-day. The plaza contains a tropi- cal garden with a giant banyan tree and royal palms, and on its west side stands the ancient official residence of the gov- ernors of Jamaica, King's House, which was erected in 1763, and has been long disused, though still kept in good repair. On the north side stands the Rodney Monument, which con- sists of an octagonal cupola supported by Corinthian pilas- ters, and flanked by a colonnade with Ionic pillars, shelter- ing within an heroic marble statue of the great admiral in whose honour it was erected. It was executed by Bacon, in 1789, only a few years after Rodney's great and decisive vic- tory over De Grasse (off the island of Dominica, April 12, 1782), and is regarded as a masterpiece of the sculptor's art. It is flanked by two brass bomb-mortars, and two bronze 32- pounders taken from De Grasse's flagship, the Ville de Paris, which was then the largest and finest fighting-ship in the world. On the south side of the plaza is a structure containing the town hall, court house, parochial board rooms, and savings bank. On the east is the Record Office, a depository of official records, land-titles, etc., and in this building the old House of Assembly held its sessions. · The oldest and most interesting ecclesiastical edifice in the island, and the only remaining relic of the Spanish oc- cupation, the cathedral, is but a few minutes' walk from the plaza. It dates from the sixteenth century, but was re- constructed in 1714, as a tablet inscription over the main doorway states: "D. O. M. “This Church dedicated to ye service of Almighty God was thrown down by ye dreadful Hurricane of August ye 28th Anno Domini MDCCXII and was by ye Divine assistance through ye Piety and at ye expense of ye Parishioners more beautifully and substantially rebuilt upon its old foundation in ye 13th year of ye reign of our most gracious Sovereigne Queen Anne and in ye government of his Excellency the Lord Archibald Hamilton, in ye year of our Lord MDCCXIV.” The cathedral is built in the form of a Latin cross, is 172 JAMAICA 169 feet in length and 87 in width. “The exterior, save the eastern or Gothic portion, is by no means imposing, but the interior is spacious and handsome, while the orientation and lighting are perfect.” Within the church are 46 monuments and mural tablets, four of which alone cost 15,000 guineas, and altogether more than 40,000 pounds. This fact is mentioned merely to give an idea of the wealth and aristocracy that might have been found here in the centuries past, for some of the monuments are of great artistic merit, and beautiful in design. The church, in addi- tion to its many mural tablets, has been said to be literally "paved with gravestones,” some extremely unique, as, for example, the slab above an officer who came to Jamaica with Penn and Venables, and who, according to the inscription, “died amid great applause." Another slab has three asses engraved on it, as the crest of a family named Assam. The finest monuments are those to the memory of Sir Basil Keith, Major-General Selwyn, the Countess of Elgin, and the Earl and Countess of Effingham, most of which are from the famed Bacon's chisel. The churchyard, also, contains numer- ous tombstones to the memory of great officials, naval and military men, among them being one that covers the remains of an American, George Washington Reed, who died here a prisoner of war, in 1813. “Among the altar plate and sacred vessels of the church are some very valuable pieces, in particular a flagon and chalice inscribed 1685,' which was probably a prize from the siege of Santo Domingo; a pair of patens and chalice inscribed ‘1702,' and a pair of flagons and chalice dated 1777.". Spanish Town is provided with an excellent hotel, which makes a specialty of Jamaican cooking, is delightfully lo- cated, and has every requisite for the tourists' comfort and convenience. It is called the Rio Cobre, after the river upon which the town is situated. From this hotel as a stopping- place (and the tarry will be long for one who can appre- ciate good living, fine scenery, and historic associations) sev- eral interesting excursions can be made to various points of interest, of which Spanish Town is the centre. About 5 miles from town are the modern sugar-works on the irrigated estate of Caymanas, where crystallised sugar is made by the 170 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES up-to-date "vacuum-pan” process. Within a few minutes' walk of the cathedral and plaza is the District Prison, with 88 acres of land around it cultivated by convicts. It is an excellent institution of its kind, and worth inspecting, per- mission being first obtained of the Inspector-General of Prisons, at Kingston. For 10 shillings or so, a buggy can be hired at the hotel for a trip to Port Henderson, through several miles of banana plantations, in a section that has been made valuable by irri- gation. At Port Henderson there is a seaside sanitarium, with mineral springs and baths, and a hill known as Rodney's Lookout, whence, after a rather stiff climb, a fine view is afforded of St. Catherine Plains, Port Royal, Kingston, city and harbour, and the glorious background of mountains. The irrigation system referred to was the creation of gov- ernment under Sir J. P. Grant, whose service in India had taught him its potentialities. By means of a dam across the Rio Cobre, and nearly 90 miles of canals, entailing an ex- pense of about $600,000, some 30,000 acres of otherwise worthless land, lying contiguous to the port of Kingston, were made exceedingly fertile and profitable. One of the interesting excursions here is a trip down the main canal and return, boats for the purpose being furnished by the de- partment at small expense. Spanish Town abounds in features historical as well as in attractive scenery. An old tamarind tree is pointed out, near the bank of the river, 6 miles from the sea, beneath which two English officers were shot, by sentence of court martial, in 1660. Not far from the irrigation dam, about 4 miles from town, is a ruined structure overgrown with vegetation, which, tradition says, was once the residence of the last Spanish governor. An old avenue is indicated by the re- mains of great trees, and at the dam itself is a fine waterfall. Spanish Town was seriously injured by the 'quake of 1907, but not nearly to the extent that Kingston suffered. The ancient King's House, the old House of Assembly, office of the Registrar-General, and the Government School, were “rent from top to bottom, but did not collapse.” The south- ern wall of the cathedral fell in, and the altar was wrecked by a falling beam. Some private residences were practically JAMAICA 171 destroyed, but the Hotel Rio Cobre was uninjured. As the seismic shock was felt, a low rumbling noise was heard, and almost simultaneously the whole town shook “like the leaves of a banana tree in a slight wind." The court-house un- dulated under the shock; the town clock struck once; the inhabitants rushed pell-mell into the streets, shrieking and praying for help. Bog Walk and Rio Cobre. There yet remains the most fascinating portion of the Rio Cobre region to explore that of the “Bog Walk," without a doubt one of the most pic- turesque spots to be found anywhere in Jamaica. Bog Walk is a corruption of the Spanish Boca del Agua, or Water- Mouth, and, strictly speaking, applies to the gorge through which the Rio Cobre flows. The drive from Spanish Town is a short one (though it may be extended with profit above the defile) along the Rio Cobre's banks. A double buggy may be hired, for three persons, at the Hotel Rio Cobre, for 12 shillings the trip. On the way to Bog Walk may be seen the hydraulic works of the West India Electric Company, from which power is obtained for the street-car service of Kingston, 12 to 20 miles away. Here the river is dammed, the water passing through an immense pipe to the power- house, about a mile distant, whence the power there gener- ated is conducted over wires to Kingston by the "three-phase system.” Alluding to the beauty of the Rio Cobre's scenery, as also the frequent interruption of its waters by artificial means, some one has called it the most-praised and most- dammed stream in Jamaica ! Everybody who has visited the Bog Walk has sung its praises, but none better than the late Lady Brassey, who says: “Imagine everything that makes scenery lovely: wood, water, and the wildest luxuriance of tropical foliage, mingled and arranged by the hand of Nature (in one of her happiest moods), and then picture all this surrounded by lofty and abrupt precipices, with a background of the most brilliant hues illuminated by the brightest of suns. Passing out, the sides of the ravines become less precipitous and are clothed with all kinds of tropical trees, such as the bread-fruit and bamboo, besides vast quantities of flowering orchids." Six miles above the Bog Walk railway station is a wonder- 172 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ful natural bridge, spanning the Rio del Oro, a branch of the Cobre. Here the river flows for nearly a mile through a deep canyon, and at one point the walls approach, at a height of about 60 feet above the stream, forming an arch capped by a single Cyclopean slab. Luxuriant growths of trees, vines and shrubs clothe the arch, keystone and all, “combining to form a picture of rugged grandeur garbed with sylvan beauty.” There is a small hotel at Bog Walk, and the place is a holiday resort for Kingstonians, as well as strangers, lured hither by its natural charms. Altogether, the Rio Cobre (Anglice Copper River) is a charming stream, and a very useful one, to boot. At its mouth is Passage Fort, where the Cromwellian troops under Penn and Vena- bles landed, in 1655. Old Harbour Bay, about 10 miles beyond Spanish Town, and 23 from Kingston, is connected with the Spanish occu- pation by tradition, for in Galleon Harbour, its offshoot, the first Spaniards arriving here, under Esquivel, are said to have landed. The ancient Tamarind Tree Church, still standing, is said to have been built by orders of Don Diego Columbus, son of Christopher the discoverer, and if this be true it is the most interesting relic of Spanish times in the island. Old Harbour proper lies at a little distance from the railway station of that name, and to reach it a vehicle must be taken to the port. The next station on the line of any importance is May Pen, 33 miles from Kingston, approached by a lattice-girder iron bridge 300 feet in length, with a central span of 150 feet. This bridge spans the Rio Minho, generally known as the Dry River, because for 10 miles or so of its course it is usually dry, the water pursuing a subterranean channel, and reappearing below May Pen, only flowing above ground in times of flood. Porus, 47 miles, and 760 feet above sea-level, is a station that was named after the two brothers who fought Columbus when he was shipwrecked on the north coast, and is not interesting otherwise. Mandeville, Health Resort. From the station of Wil- liamsfield (53 miles, 1,300 feet) "traps" may be hired 25. 6d. each passenger) for the charming hill town and JAMAICA 173 health resort of Mandeville, 2,200 feet elevation. The drive thither is through a beautiful country, and as the road is constantly ascending, the air is cool and bracing all the way. The town has the aspect, all agree, of an English village, and J. A. Froude says: “I found myself in an exact repro- duction of a Warwickshire hamlet before the days of rail- ways and brick chimneys. There were no elms, to be sure; but there were silk-cotton trees and mangos where they should have been. There were boys playing cricket, a mar- ket-house, a modest inn, a shop or two, and a blacksmith's forge with a shed, where horses were standing waiting their turn to be shod; and across the green was the Parish Church, with its three aisles and low square tower.” . Jamaicans think Mandeville too cool for comfort, accus- tomed as they are to high temperatures; but the visitor is likely to find it extremely agreeable, with pure mountain breezes sweeping the plateau by night and by day. The scenery is picturesque, the drives delightful, and there are excellent hotels for the most fastidious, besides several board- ing-houses of repute. Particular attention is called to the Waverley House, situated a short distance from town, on an elevation that affords extensive views. Mandeville is situated in the centre of Manchester Parish, a region of park-like estates and beautiful trees, with scenery that reminds one of “home,” if that be in a Northern coun- try, and yet abounding in oranges (for which it is famous), coffee, cacao, etc. The station of Green Vale, in the north- ern part of this parish, is 1,700 feet above sea-level, and the highest point on the railway line. A rolling country follows, with grazing “pens,” interspersed with forests of cabinet and dye woods, beyond which is the beautiful Or- ford Valley, seen after emerging from the first tunnel. : Santa Cruz Mountains. Balaclava, 70 miles, 800 feet elevation, is a centre of the coffee and ginger trade, and it is from this station, or the farther one of Appleton (77 miles, 435 feet), that the famous Santa Cruz Mountains may be reached. The town of Malvern is the commercial centre of this salubrious region, where the pure air from the sea is the dryest and the temperature most equable of any spot in Jamaica. “The proximity to the sea, with an altitude of 174 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES about 2,500 feet, furnishes a dry atmosphere freighted with ozone; and the ceaseless energy of the breezes, which blow throughout the whole year, tempers the air, which under ordinary circumstances would be charged with humidity. Such a combination of meteorological conditions makes the climate of these mountains unrivalled anywhere else in Jamaica.” It is particularly recommended for those afflicted with pulmonary complaints. The drive from Balaclava to Malvern occupies about five hours, and the cost of a buggy is 25 shillings for one, and 30 shillings for three; the same time and rates from Apple- ton, as well as from Mandeville. There is one hotel, the Astor House. Two boarding-houses and several furnished cottages are also to be found here, the former with charges of 2 guineas per week, and the latter at 35 to 65 shillings per month. It is said that some remarkable cures have been effected by long residence here, in cases of lung trouble. The Cockpit Country. The railway line descends from Balaclava, for quite a distance passing through the tropical glades of Black River, the longest navigable stream in Jamaica, famous for its dye woods and alligator shooting. The light pirogues of the logwood gatherers penetrate a dis- tance of 30 miles into the island. Between Appleton and Breadnut Valley are beautiful cascades in the winding river, beyond which the road ascends again, at Ipswich station at- taining an altitude of 783 feet, at a distance of 86 miles from Kingston. The line now skirts the famous "Cockpit Country," a waste region, consisting mainly of small conical hills composed of limestone, alternating with rich glades in which bananas and other tropical fruits grow to perfection. So wild is this region that it has never yet been 'fully explored, it is said, and formerly the Maroons, or runaway negroes, had their fastnesses here. Accompong, the old Maroon Town, lies in the Cockpit Country northeast of Ipswich and Mulgrave. Southwest of these stations lie the “Surinam Quarters," so called, because this section, in the southern part of Westmoreland, was originally settled by Dutchmen from Surinam, whose descendants yet reside here. The railway now runs almost due northwest, through the JAMAICA 175 Great River valley, the principal station in which is Mont- pelier, 102 miles from Kingston, and 400 feet above sea- level. It is celebrated for the vast estates adjacent, contain- ing thousands of acres, over which roam herds of quaint Indian cattle, imported by a wealthy gentleman, the Hon. Evelyn Ellis, who also owns the Montpelier Hotel, a strictly high-class hostelry, said to be the most richly furnished of any in the island. Montego Bay. Ten miles beyond Montpelier is Montego Bay, the northwestern terminus of the Jamaica Railway, 113 miles from Kingston, the southeastern terminus. The view of the town and beautiful bay, as the road sweeps toward them, unfolding a vast panorama of sea and shore, is superb. Montego is a corruption of the Spanish manteca, or lard, for which, in its earlier days, it was famous as a shipping- port. Opening toward the island of Cuba, which was then the chief possession of the Spaniards, Montego Bay became rich and flourishing. Hither came the proud hidalgos, who were not above enriching themselves by trying-out and ship- ping the fat from wild swine, that roamed the forests then and were to be had for the killing. For beauty of location, advantages of situation as a com- mercial entrepôt for all the northwest country, and pictur- esqueness of surrounding scenery, Montego Bay is unsur- passed. It seems destined to become a great winter resort in the future, as well as a shipping-port for tropical fruits. It has several taverns and boarding-houses (see general list) and a beautifully-located sanitarium, on an eminence near the town. Sea-bathing may be had here in perfection, morning and evening, at Doctor's Cove, which is pronounced an ideal spot, with its shelving beach of silver sand. Perhaps the chief object of interest here is the old Parish Church with its monumental marbles and tablets. One of the most imposing monuments is that to the memory of Mrs. Rose Palmer, who, though lauded in the inscription as a saint, is charged by tradition with the removal by poisoning of several husbands in succession. She herself was strangled (tradition also states) by a negro paramour, in proof of which a sanguinary discolouration appears around the throat of her carven figure (which is the work of the elder Bacon, 176 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES a celebrated sculptor), and which was not there when the statue was originally carved. It seems, however, that the deceased dame was greatly maligned, for the much-married murderess was the second wife of her husband, who after her death espoused a beauti- ful, but depraved, Irish girl. This woman was singularly cruel to her slaves, flogging some to death and beheading others, and finally was murdered, as narrated. Her blood- stains may yet be seen, it is said, on the floor of a room in Palmyra or Rose Hall, the ruins of which are to be found about 10 miles distant from Montego Bay. Rose Hall was built in 1760, at a cost of about $150,000, and so finely fur- nished that it was notable, even in this island of beautiful mansions. The walls still stand, and these, with mahogany carvings, exquisite paintings, inlaid ebony furniture, and arabesque cornices, attest the magnificence of the costly structure when inhabited. The drives about Montego are delightful, offering sea and land scapes of exquisite beauty. Rail to Ewarton. There are two trains daily, except Sundays, from Kingston to Ewarton and return, and three from Spanish Town. · Time, from Spanish Town, about one hour, into which are crowded scenes of beauty that few trips of equal length can show. To Bog Walk, the first station, the distance is 8 miles, parallel with the picturesque Rio Cobre, the windings of which may be traced by the deeper green along its banks. The tunnels on this short route ag- gregate 1,000 yards in length, emerging from the last of which the view overlooks the dam erected by the Kingston Electric Company for the driving of its turbines. Two miles beyond Bog Walk (already described) is the small but four- ishing town of Linstead, and 6 miles farther Ewarton, which is 760 feet above sea-level and 29 miles from Kingston. This is a centre for picturesque scenery, and the terminus of the railway in this direction, which is northwest from Span- ish Town. Less than 3 miles from Ewarton is a wonderful cave, that of River Head, the roof of which is like a lofty dome and hung with stalactites. A singular feature of this cave is. that a large stream, known as the Black River, emerges from JAMAICA 177 it with considerable volume. It has been followed under- ground for more than a mile, rafts and lights being pro- vided at the entrance for a small fee. A lovely country lies adjacent to Ewarton, but the best hotel in this section is found at Moneague, 9 miles distant, so that travellers gen- erally prefer to journey on and make headquarters there. A magnificent highway runs over Mount Diablo, at an alti- tude of 1,800 feet, with wide-extended views over that quaint parish, St. Thomas-in-ye-Vale, above which the watershed sends large streams north and south, to either coast. Holly- mount House, 2 miles from Ewarton, is a well-situated hos- telry, on a tree-clad eminence, 2,700 feet above the sea, and almost surrounded with groves of orange and pimento, with other tropical trees. Moneague and Vicinity. Moneague, 9 miles beyond the railway terminus at Ewarton, is famous for its lovely scenery and fine hotel, with the added attraction of a most delicious climate. The hamlet is environed by rich pasture-land, and outside the village the hotel is situated, occupying a sightly location on an old estate known as Rose Hall. The hotel farm, comprising some 250 acres, supplies the table with deli- cious fruits and vegetables, milk, eggs, mutton and poultry. Fine drives are available here, to Claremont, Fern Gully, Roaring River Falls, and various points on the north coast- which last will be found described in an itinerary of the Windward Road and Coastal Trip. This is a region of cascades, most of which, however, are more easily accessible from the coast than from Moneague. One of the region's wonders is Fern Gully, 9 miles distant, a ravine about 4 miles in length, 40 to 60 feet wide, with almost perpendicular walls, and literally filled with ferns, from the tiniest "filmies” to the giant tree-ferns. With its great forest trees hung with lianas and air-plants, and rocks concealed among the foliage of ferns by the million, apparently, this unique gully deserves more than passing mention. It is best reached from Ocho Rios, which is about 4 miles distant, on the north coast. Kingston to Port Antonio. The journey between Kings- ton and Port Antonio occupies about four hours, though the distance is a little under 75 miles. Beyond Bog Walk 178 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES (already mentioned, preceding) the first station is Riversdale (27 miles from Kingston, altitude 500 feet), a few minutes' distance from which is the natural arch of rock over the Rio del Oro. Owing to poor connections here with trains going and coming, the Natural Bridge can best be visited by buggy from Bog Walk. The leisurely manner in which the trains progress is easily explained by the gradients to be overcome, the numerous tunnels (thirty or more) along the line and the sharp curves. Even the tunnels, some of them, are crooked, and the road winds its way through the central mountain range like a snake to Troja (31 miles, altitude 734 feet), and at Rich- mond (36 miles and 456 feet) all the streams are seen run- ning to the northern coast. We are now in the fruit coun- try par excellence, judging from the coffee, cacao, cocoa and banana groves, and all the stations are shipping-points tribu- tary to the United Fruit Company at Port Antonio. Geo- graphically speaking, it belongs to the north coast, and hence will be described with that section, in giving the excursions from Port Antonio, the centre of life and energy for all this region. The descent from Richmond is quite abrupt, for at Albany (42 miles from Kingston) we are 139 feet above the sea, and at Annotto Bay (50 miles) are on the shore it- self. From this point to Port Antonio there is a beautiful succession of sea-scapes unsurpassed, consisting of curving shores lined with graceful cocoa-palms by thousands, inter- spersed with foaming streams dashing down from the moun- tains; and all within sound and sight of the sea. The Great Windward Road. We have already made mention of the grand system of highways by which Jamaica is traversed in every direction over roads as nearly perfect as they can be made by competent engineers and skilled la- bour. The island is encircled by a belt-line highway which is intersected at every important point by roads to the in- terior and across from one coast to another. For a pound sterling per day, one may hire a carriage and two horses, with driver, and leisurely drift from town to town, taking no heed of time, until the whole island is encompassed. Striking easterly from Kingston is the first link in the sys- tem, the Great Windward Road, to the east coast and the 3 w Hotel Titchfield, Port Antonio, Jamaica 2009 Port Antonio Harbour JAMAICA 179 north. Only the chief points of interest can be named, so numerous are the attractions to a stranger. At the head of Kingston Harbour stands Rock Fort, one of the landward defences of the capital, built in 1755, and now dismantled. It may be reached by boat or highway, a perfect combination being both, one going and the other returning, and the time a moonlit night, cool, sweet, entranc- ing. The Great Road passes through the gateway of the old fort, the sole garrison of which is now a small body of con- stabulary. Near the fort is a mineral bath, with waters cura- tive for rheumatism, permission to sport in which must be obtained from the officials of the penitentiary-charge six- pence "per head.” Cane River Falls are in a grand ravine about 9 miles on the Windward Road east from Kingston, and 1/2 from the negro hamlet of Seven Miles. The trip may be made all the way by land, or part way by boat to the harbour head, thence on foot, or by carriage, to the hamlet, where guides and donkeys may be taken for the falls. Owing to the fre- quent fordings of the river, this journey can be made only in the dry season, which, fortunately for the tourist, is in the winter. After innumerable windings and turnings, the ascent to the falls is made by a solidly constructed pathway, the trail up to this point having been between parallel preci- pices of rock, hung with orchids, ferns and flowering vines. This ravine is always cool, even in the hottest days of sum- mer. The principal cascade drops into a huge basin from a shelf of rock, behind which one may pass, and behold the sheet of water, like a green veil fringed with silver. Here is a cave, which was formerly the haunt of Three-fingered Jack, a brigand so noted and feared that the government offered a reward for his capture, dead or alive. He was brought to account by a Maroon of the mountains, who killed him in single combat, and took his mutilated hand to headquarters as proof of his achievement, for which he received a pension of £20 a year during the rest of his life. Nineteen miles from Kingston the Yallahıs River is en- countered, a broad and shallow but treacherous stream, which, despite the fact that many people have been drowned in 'fording it, is yet unbridged. The town of Easington, on 180 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the Yallahs, boasts a suspension bridge, and is the chief place in the district, the most notable object in which is "Judgment Cliff," or the half of a mountain which was "rent asunder in the great earthquake of 1692.” It rises bleak and bare to a height of 1,000 feet, about 2 miles distant from Easington. Tradition says that at the time it was split the dislocated portion fell upon and overwhelmed the plantation of a licen- tious Dutchman; hence its name of "Judgment Cliff.” Twelve miles from Yallahs is Morant Bay, which is mainly interesting as the scene of the rebellion of 1865, when the insurrectionary blacks murdered the curate of Bath, the cus- tos of the parish, magistrate and other officials, by hacking them to pieces with machetes. There is a tavern here, and local guides abound. If one be inclined to explore a little, he might take the old bridle-trail from Island Mead, on the “left arm” of the Morant River, and essay a journey to the ancient Maroon settlement of Nanny Town, which figured conspicuously in the native or “runaway” wars. · Bowden and Port Morant. Port Morant is 7 miles from Morant Bay, on the road to which is a great white cliff, known to seamen as "White Horses," with views of and from it extremely grand. The best hotel in this sec- tion is that at Bowden, which is practically a creation of the United Fruit Company, and the residence of its venerable promoter, Captain Baker. On a hilltop known as Peak View the Fruit Company has erected several cottages for the bene- fit of visitors, who can obtain board and lodging there at $15 per week, with reduced rates for a longer stay. The port is accessible by their steamers and really is an appanage of Port Antonio, though more than 50 miles distant. Origi- nally, Bowden was acquired by the company as an estate for raising bananas and cocoanuts, but its picturesque location suggested its utilisation as a resort. A railroad 6 miles long connects Bowden and Port Morant with Golden Grove, a magnificent estate now devoted to banana raising. The Main Road branches beyond Port Morant, one division running to Holland Bay, near the mouth of Plantain Garden River, and the other northerly to Bath. Bath of St. Thomas the Apostle. This famous bath JAMAICA 181 is situated near the village of Bath, about 40 miles from Kingston, and reached not only by stage-coach over the high- way, but by coastal steamer as well, which lands passengers at Port Morant. The scenery here is purely tropical, the elevation about 170 feet above the coast, the air pure, but in the summer months very humid. The winter months, from March to April, inclusive, are the best for invalids. The springs, also, are said to be hotter then and more highly charged with their mineral constituents. The bath-house is about 1/2 miles from the village, reached by a good road through a narrow gorge to a deep ravine, in which the springs take their rise. Some of these are cold, and some are hot and steaming, running almost side by side to the baths, where the arrangements are most complete for their use. An eminent physician says of these hot springs: "By the rare combination in them of the sulphites of lime and soda they furnish the most beautiful problem in therapeutics, the most powerful remedy for phthisis." They are also stimu- lant and highly beneficial in many chronic complaints and in a great variety of skin diseases. An enthusiastic writer of the eighteenth century declared that the water sent a thrilling glow through the whole body, its continued use enlivening the spirits, and sometimes producing almost the same joyous effects as inebriation. “On this account some notorious topers have quitted their claret for a while, and come to the springs for the sake of a little variety in their debauch, to enjoy the singular felicity of getting drunk on water !” However this may be—and the writer makes no affidavit to this statement-it is certainly true that the waters have proved of great benefit to generations of visitors, and were probably known to the aborigines before the com- ing of the white men. The first of Jamaica's botanic gardens was established at Bath, in 1774, the precursor of the beautiful and beneficial gardens of this sort which now exist in the island, as well as in St. Vincent and Trinidad. There is a lodging-house here, where travellers are comfortably entertained, and if one cares to explore a bit, in an almost untraversed country, an opportunity offers by a ride through the wonderful Cuna Cuna Pass of the Blue Mountains, at the headwaters of 182 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the Rio Grande, which may be followed to the Maroon settle- ment of Moore Town, and northerly to Port Antonio. By taking the trail along the banks of Garden River, also, one may penetrate to another Maroon settlement of olden times, the historic Nanny Town, already mentioned. Means and cost of reaching Bath: Kingston to Bath, by carriage (55 miles), £3. Steamer to Bowden, first-class, 10 shillings; to Bath, car- riage, 10 shillings. From Port Antonio, by carriage (38 miles), £2 Ios.; steamer to Bowden, 10 shillings; thence by buggy, 10 shil- lings. Lodgings, Miss Duffey's boarding-house. Portland Parish. Taken altogether, the parish of St. Thomas, which includes all territory east of Yallahs River and south of the Blue Mountain ridge, is perhaps the most picturesque on the south coast. It has a rival, however, in Portland Parish, lying between the Blue Mountains and the north coast; but both are very beautiful. The road from Bath follows the Plantain Garden River to the coast, along which it runs, northerly and then westerly, the entire length of the island, nearly always within sight and sound of the sea. The port of Manchioneal, on the east coast, 17 miles from Port Morant, was, like Morant Bay and Bath, a scene of massacre in the insurrection of 1865, and many negroes were executed here and buried on the beach. The ubiquitous “Tom Cringle," as narrated in his “Log,” had some lively adventures here, also. Deep bays and inlets in- dent the coast above Manchioneal, and the scenery is very picturesque, but the country mainly is “ruinate," so far as eastern Portland is concerned. The John Crow Mountains rise on the west, the sea bounds the prospect on the east, so that this section is entirely isolated from the rest of the island. But for the enterprise of one man, some forty years ago, eastern Portland might have continued in the desola- tion to which the emancipation of the negro slaves brought it, thirty years before. Port Antonio. It is universally acknowledged in Jamaica that one man, and those he associated with him in business, brought prosperity not only to Portland Parish, but also JAMAICA 183 to Jamaica. This man was Captain L. D. Baker, a “Yankee skipper" from Boston, who sailed his schooner to these parts, finding the northeast coast pleasant and fair to look upon, but at the same time almost abandoned by the whites and given over to African savagery. He saw that the soil was fertile; but knew that sugar and rum were no longer re- munerative, though millions of bananas and oranges were rotting on the ground. The former fruit, he knew, com- manded high prices in the States, and he took a small cargo up there, with profitable results. That was in 1868, and from that small beginning arose the immense industry that has saved Jamaica from absolute ruin, has renovated thousands of acres formerly ruinate, given employment to many thou- sand labourers, created wealth and activity where before were poverty and sloth, and practically re-created opulent Port Antonio, now the chief port of the north coast, and second only to Kingston in the importance of its commerce. As the damage done by the earthquake here was relatively slight, it is possible that, should Kingston suffer a constant recurrence of seismic tremors, Port Antonio may usurp its place as Jamaica's emporium and winter resort. Be that as it may, it is now a flourishing centre of bustling business, wholly American in its energy, enterprise and thrift. It is the great centre and emporium of the fruit trade, which is now the staple industry, not only of the parish of Portland, but of the island. The United Fruit Company, says the official Handbook of Jamaica, has a fleet during the busy season, say from March ist to October ist, consisting of 24 steamships (now 30], 6 each for Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Balti- more. Included in these are the fine passenger ships, the Admirals Dewey, Farragut, Schley and Sampson. “These ships make the passage to their respective ports in from 4 days 5 hours to 4 days 15 hours; are furnished with electric light and other facilities, and are among the fastest ships doing business in these waters." That is a succinct statement of what Captain Baker's ven- ture in bananas grew to in less than forty years, and it is made on the authority of British officialdom, so it must be correct. But that is not all, by any means, and to see all, 184 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES to fully appreciate all, one should visit Port Antonio (sail- ing in one of those magnificent steamers), should put up at the company's hotel, the peerless Titchfield, and make excur- sions thence into the country, where the company owns more than forty plantations, from which it ships annually in excess of 5,000,000 bunches of bananas and 10,000,000 cocoa- nuts. Besides negroes by thousands, the company employs 000 coolies, 600 mules, 800 oxen, and almost literally owns the “cattle on a thousand hills." All the plantations are con- nected by telephone with the president's office at Port An- tonio, by which means every superintendent is directly in touch with the general manager, who controls produce and shipments absolutely. It is this perfect organisation which is the keynote of the company's success—a success un- paralleled in the annals of fruit-raising and shipment in any country. Port Antonio, Town and Harbour. The parish re- ceived its name from Henry Bentinck, Duke of Portland, one-time Governor-General of Jamaica, who died in office at Spanish Town, July 4, 1726. He was created Marquis of Titchfield in 1716, and after him the great hotel was named. Though far-distant from the capital, in the early days of Jamaica's history Port Antonio was provided with formid- able defences in the shape of a half-moon battery; now obso- lete, of course, and armed with antique cannon. The Port has a double harbour, on a picturesque peninsula between which town and hotel occupy commanding positions, the lat- ter on a hill overlooking the sea, behind it the red-roofed, jalousied houses, nestled amid green and golden cocoa-palms. Verdure-clad hills rise by successive steps to the altitude of mountains, culminating in the magnificent Blue Mountain range, with its numerous peaks wreathed in clouds. Moun- tains and sea combine to give Port Antonio a special charm, and here we find embodied, as it were, all the fascinating features that make of Jamaica a perfect winter resort, an outdoor sanitarium, a place for recreation and the prolonga- tion of life. Excursions from Port Antonio. A tavern and several boarding-houses furnish accommodations for travellers at Port Antonio, but the hotel par excellence, not alone of the JAMAICA 185 island, but of any island in the western Caribbean, is the su- premely situated Titchfield, with its beautiful site on a hill, the shores of which are washed by the sea-waves, affording lovely bathing-places, and with glorious views outspread from its verandas. It is perfect in its equipment, being man- aged by the well-known proprietors of the hotels Tuileries and Empire of Boston, and the new Ocean House of Swamp- scott in Massachusetts. Owned by the Fruit and Steam- ship Company, which brings every Northern staple and deli- cacy in cold storage directly to its doors, the Titchfield sets before its guests the best of every clime, inimitably served by trained waiters, in the beautiful dining-hall overlooking the tropical sea and shore. Provided that future 'quakes put poor old Kingston "out of the reckoning," and that Port Antonio be preserved immune, as it has been hitherto, the entire island may yet be visited from this point, by rail, by carriage, and by coastal steamer. While there is no section of Jamaica without its special at- traction, still the north coast alone would reward one for a voyage and tarry of many weeks' duration. All the points enumerated in the previous pages are accessible by road or coastal steamer, and, in addition, there are small-boat trips from the Port which are unique and even fascinating, such as to the mouth of the Rio Grande and the numerous little bays that indent the shore. On the Rio Grande, or Great River, which rises in the mountains north of Bath, and flows for niore than 20 miles through the rich banana re- gion, the banner banana plantation, Golden Vale, is situated. It is reached by a good but winding road, with fascinating fording-places here and there, and richest vegetation all the way. Formerly a sugar estate, it is now devoted to the more profitable cultivation of the delicious fruit which, some aver, was that forbidden to our Mother Eve, in Eden. It may be taken as the type of all the great banana plantations and should be looked over carefully, for it has an output of many thousand bunches annually, teems with native and coolie labourers, and has droves of mules and herds of oxen. Of itself very interesting, the excursion to Golden Vale may be varied by prolonging it, over a continuation of the same road, to Moore Town, home of the Maroons. Here live 186 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES those peculiar people with a most romantic history, who for many years, in the centuries past, defied the armed might of Jamaica and Great Britain. Although most of them have negro blood in their veins, yet they are certainly a people apart from the blacks, whom they hold in supreme con- tempt. In fact, during the insurrection of 1865 they assisted the government in trailing the black rebels to their retreats, hunting them down and killing without mercy. Proud of their history, possessed of great acumen as hunters and fighters, the Maroons yet dwell contentedly in their mountain retreat (which is rarely visited by outsiders), where their thatched and wattled huts of cane and palm- leaves are perched upon the hillsides, embowered in palms, plantains, bread-fruits, mangos, and such like tropical trees, which give them fruit as well as shade. Procuring a guide at Moore Town, the trail may be fol- lowed, but only on foot or on horseback, to the wild and beautiful Cuna Cuna Pass, whence one may descend to Bath and its hot springs, south of the mountain ridge. Westward from Port Antonio. One may "buggy ride," walk, or coast in small boat the charming north shore of Jamaica; but to save time the railway may be taken, with the stations in reverse order from their arrangement on the schedule-Kingston to Port Antonio. The first station out from Port Antonio is St. Margaret's Bay, time twenty min- utes, where the sea-views, as the train winds alongshore, beneath an almost perpendicular cliff, out of which a shelf has been cut for the roadway, are superb. The Rio Grande is crossed over a substantial bridge, and this crossing affords a delightful view up-river of this stream, which is second in size only to the Black River of the southwest coast. Beyond St. Margaret's is Hope Bay, thirty minutes, after which the Swift River is crossed, Orange Bay is passed, then Spanish River, and Buff Bay (town and river) reached, at a distance of 19 miles (by the highway) from Port Antonio—all the way through planta- tions of bananas and groves of cocoa-palms, sometimes so near the shore that in storms they are drenched by the salt spray. The road skirts the shore as far as Annotto Bay, a town on the east bank of the Wag Water River, in going JAMAICA 187 to which several streams are crossed: the White, Little Span- ish, and Dry rivers. Annotto Bay is a place of growing im- portance, owing to its shipments of logwood and bananas, and the scenery here, as all along the route to Port Antonio, is surpassingly lovely. The railroad turns inland at this point, and has been described on previous pages; route from Kingston to north coast. Beyond this port the only means of access are by boat and highway. Not far distant from Annotto Bay is a shallow inlet which is rarely visited, but which is associated with a historic event that should not be passed over, for it was here, in “Don Christopher's Cove" (still so called), that Admiral Columbus stranded his ships, in 1504, and remained for a twelvemonth. At the end of a long voyage along the Hon- duras coast (which proved the last he was to make in the West Indies), Columbus, finding his ships leaky and worm- eaten, sought a place for running them ashore, trusting to future events for escape from the island, then unknown as to its inhabitants and resources. The Cove is a pretty little in- let, with a smooth beach and shallowing water, just right for bathing; but doubtless Columbus and his men tired of it during their long period of repose. Famine threatened them, too, and it was here that the wily Don Christopher "fooled” the aborigines when provisions ran low, by predicting an eclipse of the moon, which, occurring at the appointed time, frightened the Indians so that they brought him all the food he needed for months. Here also his sailors mutinied, under the brothers Porras (who are immortalised by hav- ing a village named after them, on the Jamaica Railway), and his brother, Don Bartholomew, performed prodigies of valour in subduing them. Westward from Annotto some 16 miles is Port Maria, a town with a fine but small harbour, anciently guarded by a fort, now converted into a poor-house for the benefit of the parish's impoverished people. A dozen fortunate in- digents inhabit here, supported by a fund called “Gray's Charity," which yields them a weekly allowance of 5 shil- lings each, wood, water, and furnished apartments in the old fort, from the parapets of which one of the island's finest views is afforded. 188 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Six miles west of Port Maria is Oracabessa Bay (prob- ably a corruption of Cabeza de Oro, or Golden Head), where Columbus first landed, May 5, 1494. About the same distance westward we find Rio Nuevo, or New River, where the Spaniards made their last stand in Jamaica. Don Arnaldo Sasi, the last Spanish governor, who was driven from the island by the English in 1655, returned two years later with a thousand men and fortified a rocky eminence near the sea at Rio Nuevo. There he was attacked by the English (1658) and defeated, finally escaping from the island in a canoe, at a place in the adjoining parish called “Runaway Bay,” which name it still bears. The north coast is preëminently a region of rivers, and every mile or two a rippling stream or foaming cascade springs into view. The Spaniards perpetuated the number of streams in one place by the name Ocho Rios, or Eight Rivers, which lies about midway between Rio Nuevo and St. Ann's Bay. It is a small country village with many natural beauties abounding, on the cliffs near which is an attractive hotel called the Sylvia Lawn. It would be well to tarry here at least a day, if only to inspect some wonderful falls in the neighbourhood. There is a good livery connected with the hotel, and visitors can be met at any station. Roaring River Falls. Another name bestowed by the Spaniards upon Ocho Rios was the “Bay of Waterfalls," and of the eight rivers which here come plunging into the sea, one is the most wonderful in the island, if not in the world. This is Roaring River, a glimpse of which you get on the roadway, where palms, banyans, mangos, set their feet amid numerous rills and all together form a veritable fairyland. The roaring of the falls can be heard a long dis- tance away, but the visitor is rarely prepared for the beautiful sight that greets the vision as the Great Falls burst upon the view. They are about 150 feet high by 175 to 200 feet in breadth, and the largest in the island, but are so enclosed by woods, and interspersed as it were with mounds of vege- tation, trees in groups and isolated, that they appear much smaller than they are. The noise they make, though, is deaf- ening, for the full torrent is discharged in a myriad of cascades, “feathery and brilliant, massed together, clustered, JAMAICA 189 glancing at a hundred different angles, breaking into a thousand foam-jets, each curtained with an iridescent veil of falling water, which seems to drip from the branches of the trees that form the foreground, growing as they are in mid-stream.” The river has a subterranean source, for, about two miles from the sea, it appears as a torrent out of the limestone rock, never-failing, always full and tumultuous. “The water is full of lime and silica in solution, and these it deposits in walls or layers, which invariably check and deflect its onflow, turning it to the right or the left. This building up of lime deposits is what forms the cascades. Sticks or other matter left in the water are soon coated inches thick with limestone." There are numerous bathing-pools, embowered in tropical trees, and the water is cool and exceedingly re- freshing. The shortest route from the Main Road to the falls is through private ground, for which a small fee is charged. The White River Falls, in the same region watered by so many rivers, are very beautiful; but Roaring River surpasses them all. Paradisiacal St. Ann's. Three or four miles from Ocho Rios, westward, the Bay of St. Ann's opens out, with a fine harbour and a population of about 2,000. The town is in- significant, but the parish in general is one of the most beau- tiful in the island. One writer says: "Earth has nothing more lovely to display than the pastures and pimento groves of St. Ann, nothing more enchanting than its hills and vales, delicious in verdure, and redolent with fragrant spices. Embellished with wood and water, from the deep forests whence the streams descend to the ocean in cascades, the blue haze of the air blends and harmonises all into beauty." Here is the habitat of the native allspice, or pimento, the trees, with silvery stems and dark-green heads of glossy leaves, standing in groups on gentle slopes covered with velvety grass. The scent of the ripe berries fills the air, and one is lulled by the hum of the bee and the roar of the waterfall, says a native writer. Graceful clumps of wood- land, spreading ceibas, and scarlet-blotched "broad-leaf” crown the crests of the undulating hills. St. Ann may be reached by the drive over Mount Diablo 190 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES from Ewarton, by way of Moneague, which is in this parish, through a country which "gives one the idea of a bit of the Derbyshire Hills.” The rich and fertile appearance of the countryside conveys to the mind, stronger than words can picture it, an idea of the agricultural resources of this part of the island. Fern Gully Road should be taken (which will give several miles of scenery unequalled anywhere for variety and charm) to Ocho Rios, and thence the north road along the coast which we are now following. About a mile to the west of St. Ann's Bay are the remains of the first Spanish settlement in Jamaica, called by them Sevilla del Oro, which contained a cathedral, a monastery, etc., but of which only a few sculptured stones are left. There are several lodging-houses in the vicinity, and if for- tunate the traveller may get accommodations at the planter's house on the Seville estate. The towns on the north coast beyond Ocho Rios and St. Ann's Bay might be better reached by coastal steamer than by road; but the highway is good all around the island. About 10 miles from St. Ann's is one other historic spot connected with the Spanish occupancy of Jamaica: Runaway Bay, so called from the fact that Don Arnaldo Sasi, after his defeat at Rio Nuevo, escaped from the island in a canoe from this little port. The next port beyond is Dry Har- bour, which was called by Columbus Puerto Bueno, or the Good Port, and where he careened his leaky ship for repairs. It is not very attractive, except for its associations, and from the fact that near it is a cavern, at Cave Hall Pen, which is of great length. It contains two galleries, which expand into grottoes adorned with beautiful stalactites and stalag- mites. Dry Harbour is the nearest port to Brown's Town, an important inland centre of the produce trade in coffee and pimento, with a brisk, business-like air about it, but with no particular attractions. There is a good road from Brown's Town to Falmouth, the chief town in Trelawney Parish, which for sake of variety might be taken instead of the coast road, as it runs through a high and healthful dis- trict, inhabited by prosperous natives. Falmouth Port, which was a shipping place for sugar in the 192 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES purity; and there are no malarious swamps to poison the breath of the land breeze that nightly brings refreshing cool- ness from the Dolphin Head (height 2,000 feet) that looms up yonder to the south.” At Green Island, 12 miles from Lucea, we reach the ex- treme northwestern end of the island, around which the coast road sweeps through a fine country. Another road, however, “cuts across lots,” through the finest grazing region in the island, where, “but for the great clumps of bamboos that throw their shade over the ponds decked with water lilies, and remind us that we are still in the tropics, the sleek Herefords and Shorthorns grazing contentedly on fat, clean pastures, bounded by gray stone walls, might de- lude us into the belief that we had suddenly been transported to some more temperate region.” There are six "pens” (as these grazing farms are called in Jamaica) in this district, each of which possesses an acreage running into the thousands, and which can show stock that would not disgrace any English cattle show. At Shettlewood Pen may be seen the silver-gray hides and quaint shapes of Zebu and Mysore cattle imported from India. Savanna la Mar, the chief town of Westmoreland, the ex- treme southwestern parish of Jamaica, is the shipping port of a vast and fertile region, which supports many old sugar estates. The produce is floated down to it on the Cabaritta River, one of the two navigable streams of the island, the other being the Black River, also on this south coast. It is the outlet of a large logwood country, and, like Black River settlement, lies low on the seashore. At the time Port Royal was destroyed, 1692, Savanna la Mar suffered severely, and in 1744, during a fierce hurricane accompanied by an earthquake, it was completely engulfed by a tidal wave, which “left not a vestige of man, beast or habitation behind." Still, the inhabitants cling to the place, and it is, in a sense, flourishing, though extremely isolated. Black River is the chief town and seaport of St. Elizabeth Parish, and lies about 29 miles to the southeast of Savanna la Mar. It is situated at the mouth of the stream whose name it bears, down which float large quantities of logwood, JAMAICA 193 · and other dye woods. This river is the longest navigable stream in Jamaica (as already mentioned in the railway itinerary when crossing its headwaters). It is famed for the sport it affords the hunter, especially in alligator shoot- ing, but the town itself has few attractive features. The mouth of the stream is spanned by an iron bridge. In Spanish times the river was called the Caobana, from Caoba (mahogany), with which this region formerly abounded. St. Elizabeth Parish has the largest area of any in the island, but much of it is low-lying and swampy, though fine grazing farms abound, and the rum distilled on its estates has a world-wide reputation. In the north, where the railroad crosses the parish, are several fine waterfalls, between Appleton and Breadnut Valley, while the cascades of the “Y. S.” River, which rises at Ipswich, are extremely beautiful. In the extreme north we find the old Maroon town of Accompong, which lies off the main roads and can be reached only by a little-used trail. While much of the parish is unhealthful, there are several spots of far-famed salubrity, especially in the Santa Cruz Mountains (mentioned in the railway itinerary), which bisect the parish from north to south, and terminate at the southern extremity, on the coast, in a precipitous cliff known as the Lover's Leah. If one can be content with glorious scenery and delicious climate, then Malvern, in the Santa Cruz Mountains, if he be an invalid, should become his Mecca, for, says an eminent physician, “there are few places on earth where natural beauties so combine with those of man's creation to please and interest him." About midway between Savanna la Mar and Black River is the little town of Bluefields, once the residence of Gosse, the British naturalist, whose work on the Birds of Jamaica is a classic. In the adjoining parish of Manchester, which is bisected by Jamaica's longest railway, are many interesting places, already described, and also in Clarendon, between the first named and St. Catherine, which contains Spanish Town and the Rio Cobre. Milk River Bath. In the district of Vere, southern ex- tremity of Clarendon Parish, is one of Jamaica's wonderful mineral baths, situated on the Milk River, about 2 miles from 194 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the seacoast. It is best reached from May Pen, or Clarendon Park station, on the Jamaica Railway, where conveyance may be obtained. There are three lodging-houses at the Bath, where bedroom and bath are provided at 40 cents per day, or lodgings with meals from $1 to $1.50. The best months to visit are from December to March, inclusive. A medical authority says of the Milk River Bath: “This mineral spring is a saline calcic thermal, with temperature of 92°. In- stances are innumerable of the cures effected by it of suffer- ers from gout and rheumatism. Many have been carried into it who after three or four baths have been able to walk about by themselves, and others have left their crutches behind for the benefit of newcomers. Some of these have gone so far as to rank it superior to the thermal salines of Homburg: Wiesbaden, Kissingen, and Bourbonne, from their own practical experience, so far as gout is concerned.” Besides this bath, there is that of St. Thomas (already men- tioned in the north-coast itinerary), and the old “Jamaica Spa," on a coffee estate called Silver Hill, between two and three hours' ride from Gordon Town. These waters, “un- like the chalybeate springs of Europe, contain a great deal of alum, in which peculiar property they resemble the alum springs of Virginia, while they contain a much larger amount of iron than most of them.” With these three groups of mineral springs, containing cures for almost every kind of disease that man is heir to, it would seem that Jamaica is well provided for entertain- ing invalids, as well as robust pleasure-seekers, offering, in addition to these, a delicious climate, scenery of surpassing beauty, and the comforts of hotels, throughout the island, that provide for every want, as well as cater to every taste. Sports and Pastimes. Jamaica vies with Barbados and Trinidad in race meetings, which are held in Kingston and several of the parishes. Every town of size has its cricket club, lawn tennis, golf, polo, and (in the cooler months) baseball club. Cycling, motoring, rowing and yachting are also much in vogue, while shooting, fishing, botanising and geologising may be pursued all the year round. Shooting and Fishing. While Jamaica cannot be termed a sportsman's country, there is yet much to be found to lure JAMAICA 195 one to the woods and shores. The principal native game- birds are the blue pigeon, baldpate, ring-tail pigeon, and the white-wing; pea dove, white-belly, and partridge. The three first named are strong of wing and swift flyers; the white- belly and partridge haunt the woodland thickets; the ring- tail the mountain heights. Flocks of migratory birds, duck, teal, snipe, plover and ortolan visit the island during the fall and winter months, sometimes in large numbers. All native birds are protected, there being a close season for game birds, and some species, which were in danger of extinction, are protected all the time. This was necessary to preserve the bright-plumaged birds, like the “hummers," etc., which were hunted for their skins and feathers. The mongoose, an animal introduced many years ago for the purpose of exterminating the rats and snakes, has nearly extinguished the bird-life also, and the islanders are now looking for something to extinguish the mongoose! There are few mammals worth hunting, and no large game in Jamaica. The rivers offer great attractions to the fisherman, says one who has tested them with rod and line, the rapids yielding mullet-"an excellent substi- tute for trout”—and the mouths of streams June-fish, snook, snappers, and the monster tarpon, which often scales above 100 pounds. Outlying Islands. Distant from the northwestern ex- tremity of Jamaica about 180 miles is a group of islands called the Caymans, which form part of the colony. Of these, Grand Cayman is the largest, being 17 miles in length and 4 to 7 miles in breadth. It is low-lying, but well wooded, protected by coral reefs, enclosing shallow but good harbours. The products of the islands are mahogany, dye woods, cedar and other timber, pigs, poultry, fish and turtle, and the people weave baskets, hats and sieves from palm leaves, and make fans, fishing-lines, etc. These people lead a very primitive life, and are rarely visited by strangers, the only means of communication being sailing vessels be- tween the Caymans and Jamaica. All around the islands are vast fishing-grounds, and natural caves of great extent ex- tend from the land under the sea. These were once the abodes of pirates and buccaneers, who preyed upon Spanish 196 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ships and committed many depredations until dislodged by a combined attack by ships-of-war. The inhabitants of Grand Cayman number about 5,000, while the combined population of the other islands, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, is only 850. These islands are about 70 miles distant from Grand Cayman and 7 miles apart, each one being about 9 miles long by a mile in breadth. They contain great groves of cocoanut trees, from the prod- ucts of which the inhabitants derive a comfortable living. Morant and Pedro Cays. The Morant Cays consist of three small islets 33 miles southeast of Morant Point, Jamaica. They are resorted to by sea-birds, who during the months of March and April cover them with their eggs, which are taken to Jamaica by the schooner-load. Turtle also re- sort here, as well as at Pedro Cays, four islets 40 miles south- west of Portland Point, south coast of Jamaica. Hotels. Under the “Hotels Law" of 1890, which guar- anteed the payment of interest upon capital invested in the erection and maintenance of hotels of the first class, several fine structures were erected and put in commission, which proved a boon to travel, and a great gain to the island. Under this law were constructed the great Constant Spring Hotel, near Kingston; the Myrtle Bank, on Harbour Street; the Queen's Hotel, Heywood Street; the Rio Cobre, at Spanish Town; the Moneague Hotel, St. Ann's. Others were put up by private enterprise, so that Jamaica is better equipped in this respect than any other island in the West Indies, Cuba alone excepted. The same law (of 1890) established a tariff which all hotels built under it must follow, as follows: Board and lodging for one, per day, 12s.; per week, £3 ios. Single beds, 4s. ; double beds, 6s. Tea, coffee, milk, or chocolate, per cup, 6d.; with bread and butter, Is.; toast and eggs, Is. 6d. Breakfast, from 2s. 6d. ; lunch, from Is. 6d. ; dinner, from 45. 6d. ; supper, 2s. Brandy, per bottle, 6s.; whiskey, 6s.; old rum, 5s.; champagne, 5s.; sparkling Moselle, 3s. ; claret, Is. 6d.; ale, 9d.; lager beer, 9d. ; single or mixed drinks, 6d., etc. Boarders' bills are payable weekly, and all bills must be settled in notes, silver or gold before guests leave *el. JAMAICA 197 JAMAICA HOTELS Bowden. Peak View Cottages. $3 to $3.50 per day; 10 per cent. discount by the week. United Fruit Company, pro- prietors. Castleton Gardens. Castleton Garden Cottages. $2.50 per day, $12.50 per week. Mrs. Fuertado, proprietor. Kingston. Constant Spring. $3.50 to $5 per day; 10 per cent. discount by the week. Elder-Dempster Steamship Com- pany. Kingston. Knutsford Park Hotel. $2.50 to $3 per day; 10 per cent. discount by the week. Kingston. Hamburg-American Café, 107 Harbour Street. Table d'hote, also à la carte. Restaurant only, 10 A.M. to II P.M. Conrad Simon & Co., proprietors. Kingston. Marine Gardens. Detached cottages for rent, partly furnished, 2 11 4 bedrooms. £3 to £8 per month. J. J. G. Lewis, manager. Malvern. Malvern House, Santa Cruz Mountains. 105. per day, £2 2s. per week. Mrs. Lawrence, proprietor. Mandeville. Hotel Mandeville. American management. $3 up; $17 per week. Mandeville. The Grove Hotel. 10 to 128. per day, £3 1os. per week. H. England, proprietor. "Mandeville. Newleigh Lodgings. 98. per day upward; £2 ios. per week. Mrs. T. M. Halliday, proprietor. Monengue. Moneague Hotel. 128. per day, £3 1os. per week. T. J. Sims, proprietor. Montego Bay. Harrison's Hotel. 8s. per day, £i Ios. per week. Montpelier. _Montpelier Hotel. 128. per day, £3 ios. per week. John E. Ellis, proprietor. Port Antonio. Titchfield Hotel. Ainslie & Grabow, pro- prietors. St. Ann's Bay. Seville Private Hotel. Mrs. Harris, pro- prietor. Rates from 12s. per day. St. Ann's Bay. Lodging House, ios. per day, £2 ios. per week. Miss Ethel Hart, proprietor. Santa Cruz Mountains. "Lodgings. Ios. per day. Mrs. Temple, proprietor. Spanish Town. Hotel Rio Cobre. 125. per day, £3 to £4 per week. T. J. Sims, proprietor. History. The first intimation of Jamaica was conveyed to Christopher Columbus when, in 1494, he sighted its lofty mountains while sailing southward from Cuba. He landed on its northern coast, probably at Dry Harbour, but made no extended stay or exploration. On his last voyage to the West Indies, 1502-04, after a disastrous experience on the 198 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES coast of Honduras, he drove his sinking vessels ashore on this same north coast, and there remained for a twelve- month, until rescued by an expedition sent from Haiti. The little bay in which he was for a year “castled in the sea,” as his biographer terms it, is still known as Don Christopher's Cove, and lies between St. Ann's and Annotto Bay, After Columbus came Spanish settlers, who first established themselves at Sevilla Nueva, not far from St. Ann's; then on the south coast, at Old Harbour, which they called Esquivel (after the commander sent out by Don Diego Columbus from Hispaniola), and at Santiago de la Vega, now known as Spanish Town, which was founded in 1520. The Spanish occupation lasted about 150 years, and few remains exist to tell of that occupancy save the ruins of the church they erected at Sevilla Nueva, and an old bell from Port Royal, which has been preserved in the Institute of Jamaica, at Kingston. The English Occupation. Many Spanish names still adorn the map of Jamaica, such as Rio Cobre, Copper River; Rio Nuevo, New River; Ocho Rios, Eight Rivers; 1655 Boca del Agua, now corrupted to "Bog Walk”; Savanna la Mar, Santa Cruz, etc. The island was wrested from the Spaniards in 1655 by the expedition sent out by Cromwell under Admiral Penn and General Venables, and since then has been rebaptized, being, so far as nomen- clature goes, a veritable little England. A period of tur- moil succeeded the English occupation, for, as the wife of General Venables stated in her Journal, “a wicked army it was, and sent out without arms or provisions.” The com- manders of the expedition were imprisoned in the Tower on their return to England, for it was only by the cowardice of the Spaniards that they were permitted to capture the island, and the first governor was appointed in 1661. In 1664 the capital was established at St. Jago, or Spanish Town, and in 1670 the island was formally ceded to the English, who found the lands exceedingly fertile. Among the individuals who visited Jamaica in the early colonial period, and subsequently became famous, was Sir Hans Sloane, who arrived in 1687. This gentleman, who has to his credit the founding of the British Museum, collected JAMAICA 199 800 plants of the island, and published a book on naturai history, which became a standard work. The Destruction of Port Royal. During the last quarter of the seventeenth century Jamaica, and especially the town of Port Royal, at the entrance of what is now the 1692 harbour of Kingston, became the headquarters of the buccaneers, who preyed upon Spanish commerce, and brought hither such vast treasure that it was called the richest place in the world. Here they rendezvoused, after every voyage returning to hold high revel at Port Royal, on the tip of the Palisadoes. Among them was the famous Morgan, who sacked several cities on the Spanish Main and from Panama acquired an immense amount of treasure, most of which he appropriated to himself. He was after- ward knighted by his king, and became Governor of Jamaica. The career of these pirates was rudely interrupted on June 7, 1692, when an earthquake, or earth-slip, sent Port Royal sliding into the sea, and of 3,000 houses but 200 remained after the disaster. From this shock the buccaneers never recovered, and such of the settlers as were inclined to com- merce and agriculture removed across the bay to the main- land, and there laid the foundations of Kingston, which has since become the capital and largest city on the island. Eighteenth Century. The Maroons. When the Spaniards came to Jamaica the island was occupied by Indians to the estimated number of half a million; but few remained at the time of English occupation, and the race long since became extinct. They were a gentler people than the fierce Caribs of the Lesser Antilles, but more daring and warlike than the Arawaks of Haiti and Porto Rico. Such as were cap- tured and forced to labour on the plantations soon sank beneath the lash of their Spanish taskmasters, and their place was supplied by negroes imported from Africa. When the Spaniards were driven out several thousands of these slaves escaped to the mountain forests, where they lived like savages, and became the nucleus for that body of wild blacks known afterward as Maroons—a word derived from the Spanish cimarron, literally a mountain runaway. In 1730, 1732, and 1734 these Maroons caused a great deal of trouble, but were so strongly intrenched in their mountain 200 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES strongholds that expeditions sent to subdue them were nearly annihilated. Finally, by a treaty, they were ceded 2,500 acres of land in perpetuity and their freedom was granted them. In 1760 occurred an outbreak among the slaves on the planta- tions, which was quelled with great difficulty. In 1795 the Maroons declared war upon the white people, and were only conquered after a year of desperate fighting, prolonged sieges and the employment of bloodhounds. A treaty was nego- tiated with them, but more than 500 were deported to Nova Scotia and Sierra Leone. Earthquakes at intervals disturbed various parts of the island, and in 1744 the town of Savanna la Mar was de- stroyed by a 'quake and tidal wave. Several times during this century the French and English came into collision at sea, in connection with their chronic dispute for supremacy in the Caribbean. In 1702 the French Admiral Du Casse defeated Admiral Benbow, the British commander of a fleet, and the latter returned to Kingston, where he died of his wounds. A memorial marble was placed in the parish church, where it still remains, though the church was nearly destroyed by the earthquake of 1907. In 1782 Admiral Rodney having won the great victory over De Grasse, by which Jamaica was saved from invasion by combined French and Spanish forces, a magnificent marble memorial of the event was erected at Spanish Town, where it may still be seen. The Jamaicans were in sympathy with the revolted colonists of America during the War of the Revolution, and memorialised the British Government for greater freedom of trade; but their loyalty held them to the mother country, despite the allurements of closer commercial relations with the United States. Nineteenth Century. This century is noted for the con- tinuous development of Jamaica-at least until the emanci- pation of the slaves, in 1838—and especially for the increase of its population. Large sugar plantations had been estab- lished, and the island became famous for its rum, ginger, allspice, and latterly for its oranges and bananas. The abolition of slavery had the same mournful effect as in all the islands, for, without dependable labour, the plantations could not be worked, and thus most of them fell to ruin. YORK HOUSE Et Ruins caused by the Earthquake, Kingston, Jamaica Roaring River Falls, Jamaica JAMAICA 201 Koaring Kiver Falls, Jamaica Next to Barbados, the favourite West Indian island with the British, many Englishmen made the voyage to Jamaica, and many became settlers there, allured by its delightful climate and wide range of agricultural resources. Among others who have left their imprint upon the island's chron- icles, the author of Tom Cringle's Log, Michael Scott, is well known. He resided in the island from 1806 to 1822, except for an interval in Glasgow, where, later, he wrote the famous Log, which first appeared in Blackwood's Magazine. A valuable contributor to Jamaican literature of the sub- stantial sort was Philip Henry Gosse, who was here in 1844, three years later published his interesting Birds of Jamaica, and in 1851 his Naturalist's Sojourn. A long-time resident of Jamaica was its local historian, Bryan Edwards, whose work, though vastly overrated by his contemporaries, is an important contribution to historical knowledge. First Railway and Steamship Line. The first railway in Jamaica was opened in 1845, and extended from Kingston to Angels, north of Spanish Town, about 15 miles. Nearly forty years elapsed before it was continued to its original destination, Montego Bay, at the extreme northwest of the island, a distance of 113 miles. This was in 1894, and two years later the line connecting Kingston with Port Antonio was completed, thus uniting the north and south coasts and traversing more than three-fourths of the most fertile coun- try in the island. A line of mail steamers was subsidised to ply between Kingston au: New York in 1860, and in 1868 the fruit trade of Jamaica received its stimulus from the establish- ment of the United Fruit Company's line between Port Antonio and Boston, subsequently extended to the principal Atlantic ports of the United States. The first steamship line to England, the old and well-known Royal Mail, was established in 1842, and has ever since continued its service between the island and its "mother land.” In 1865 occurred the first important outbreak of the blacks and coloured people since emancipation, when, at Morant Bay, in the parish of St. Thomas, a mob of some hundreds, armed with cutlasses, clubs, and muskets, entered the square in front of the court-house and declared for “war.” The 202 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES custos and magistrates of the parish were butchered in cold blood, and all the officers of the local volunteers who op- posed the mob were taken and killed. Martial law was immediately proclaimed, and troops dispatched to the dis- affected district. The chief agitator, G. W. Gordon, a planter, merchant, and political leader, was arrested, tried by court martial, and hanged, together with his accomplices. The then governor, Edward John Eyre, was severely censured and recalled for proceeding to extreme measures; but never- theless a Crown government was established under his suc- cessor, by which the people's liberties were restricted and the executive head given almost despotic power. Importation of Coolies. While the blacks of Jamaica are fairly reliable as workers, they are independent as think- ers, and have reasoned out to their own satisfaction that in a land where fuel is not needed except to cook with, nor clothing except for covering, it is worse than foolish to work more than is absolutely necessary. Four or five days' labour supplies them with enough to last the week through, so why should they labour the remainder of the week? They see no reason for it, hence they have acquired a reputation for unreliability. To take their places on the plantations East Indian coolies were first imported in 1842, but the time was not then ripe for their permanent em- ployment, and it was not until 1868 that the present system of indentured service was established. The coolies proved a palliative, but not a panacea, for they, too, as soon as their terms expired, hied themselves to their own little hold- ings, which they had purchased with their savings, and refused to labour for hire unless compelled. They have helped solve the labour problem ; but they have not, ap- parently, proved so successful here as in Trinidad. Jamaica's Exposition. In 1891 Jamaica held an exhibi- tion illustrative of its natural products and manufactures, which was a most creditable showing and attracted attention to the island, though it was not a success financially. It, however, measured the advance made in the hundred years then past, and gave assurance to other countries that even an island mainly populated by blacks could be so governed by whites as to evoke something worthy of exhibition. If, JAMAICA 203 however, some of the blacks were stimulated to transitory exertion by this Exposition, they soon returned to their former apathetic indifference, and the result cannot be said to have equalled what had been anticipated by its promoters. Kingston's Terrible Disasters. It would seem that the city of Kingston, capital and chief city of Jamaica, was doomed to disaster from its very beginnings. Founded as the result of the destruction of Port Royal in 1692, it has suffered several times during the period of its existence from earthquakes, fires, and cyclones. The continued though gradual subsidence of the sloping plain upon which it was built (though protected by the Palisadoes and the inter- vening harbour from the sea) has long portended the fate that overtook Port Royal; but the many and manifest ad- vantages of its situation, and its immense commerce, have kept its inhabitants true to the choice of their ancestors, who found it unsurpassed for the rapid accumulation of wealth. Although not considered within the "hurricane area” of the West Indies, it has frequently felt the effect of those tropi- cal cyclones, which have repeatedly devastated the fairest islands in the Caribbean Sea. In the year 1880——to go no far- ther back-a cyclone passed over the eastern end of the island. At Kingston alone thirty persons were killed, and vast dam- age done to houses and wharves, most of the latter in Kingston harbour having been destroyed. In December, 1882, a calamitous fire devastated an area of 40 acres, de- stroying nearly 600 buildings, to the value of $1,000,000. On August II, 1903, occurred one of the most disastrous hurricanes that Jamaica has ever experienced, with wide- spread destruction both to buildings and growing crops, espe- cially in the banana-growing districts tributary to Port An- tonio, which itself was very seriously injured. Since rebuilt, and now more attractive than ever, it is the most flourish- ing of Jamaican towns, and continues to be the fruit-trade centre of the island's commerce with the United States. In the districts adjacent, however, cocoa and pimento groves were uprooted, or prostrated to the ground, and damage done to the extent of more than $10,000,000. The Earthquake of 1907. Although but 2 per cent. of Kingston's population is white, the remainder being of 204 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES African descent, more or less direct, that small portion is imbued with energy, courage, and determination to an ex- tent unsurpassed by any body of citizenry in the world. This fact has been proven by their undaunted front against re- peated reverses of an elemental character that might have crushed the spirits of a people less sanguine than they, and especially in their recovery from the terrible disaster of 1907. It was on January 14th, at 3.30 in the afternoon, that Kingston felt the first shock of an earthquake similar to that which had then recently devastated both San Francisco and Valparaiso. "The new year was but two weeks old and the outlook was rosy—the golden sun of prosperity had risen above the horizon-and the people looked ahead with cheerful hearts. Inside of a minute later the scene had changed—the black cloud of appalling disaster had overshadowed the sun of prosperity, and Kingston was utterly ruined. “Of the earthquake itself no one who passed through that dread thirty seconds-seconds that seemed an eternity of time—can ever forget that frightful, nerve-racking shake; the thunderous sound of falling walls and the black dust-pall that immediately enveloped the doomed city. Those who escaped alive from the chaos are unanimous in declaring that they fully believed, while the stricken city was tum- bling about their ears, that the end of the world had come! This refers especially to commercial Kingston; for while thousands of residences fell in the city and suburbs, but comparatively few people were killed in the latter. “The earthquake was heralded by an awful stillness, lasting about a minute. Then, with a low moan, which almost instantly rose to a loud roar, the earth oscillated violently from the south. The succeeding motion can best be de- scribed by the word circular, for the earth spun around like a top during four or five seconds and then stopped with a frightful jerk. The succeeding oscillation was from the west, and this was followed by six or seven savage shocks, like a dog shaking a rat. The works of puny man could not stand the assault of nature, and Kingston was wrecked. “After the shock came the fire, which destroyed the ruins of commercial Kingston, and all the stock in the stores. It JAMAICA 205 was truly a dreadful spectacle, that volcano of seething, roaring, devouring flames; but the stricken populace hardly noticed it, so completely had the earthquake cowed their spirits. Thousands upon thousands who had fled to the open Race Course stood there in silence, or discussed the cataclysm in awed whispers; for the thing was too great for them. The sun set and the moon rose on a sea of blood, while the terrified people—those who had not fled the city- sat down through that terrible Monday night watching the ruddy glow to the south, and wishing that the day would dawn. It was truly a night of prayer, prayer to the Almighty that there would be no recurrence of the terrible shock. The long-looked-for dawn at last arrived, but the swaying of the earth and the tremors still continued; and for a week, in fact, persisted, though with less force and frequency. ... "Such, in brief, is the story of the cataclysm that over- whelmed the city of Kingston. It has been wiped out; but it is certain that the energetic men who helped build up its greatness—though many, it is true, were lost in the great disaster-will at once start to rebuild a greater Kingston. Commerce has been wiped out; but energy and enterprise will restore it on a grander scale !"* The fire that consumed the city started in Harbour Street and raced through it like a whirlwind, causing probably a greater loss of life than the earthquake. More than a thousand lives were lost, and the entire business portion of the city was consumed, while of the dwelling houses only 2 per cent. remained intact. Of those that withstood the earthquake shocks, it was found the most resistant were either of the frailest materials or built of iron and cement, for structures of brick went down like rows of cards. Surprised as they were by the suddenness of the disaster, the surviving citizens were at work within an hour of the first shock succouring the wounded and gathering up the dead. The evil element also was not slow to avail itself *This description is taken from the Jamaica Daily Telegraph of January 22, 1907, the first issue subsequent to the earthquake. It is given by an eye-witness and a sufferer, who yet says: “ We have all to face the situation with whatever courage and resolution we can sum- mon to our aid !" 206 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES of the opportunity, and looters were rampant until arrested, in some (too rare) instances shot down in their tracks. Bodies of troops were organised, who helped to keep the rioters at bay; but as the telegraphic wires were down and the cables interrupted, it was not until the day after the 'quake and fire, on Tuesday, that the dire news was sent abroad and outside assistance started for the stricken city. It happened that there were no British warships in the harbour at the time, and the first to arrive were American, under command of Rear-Admiral Davis, who, with the Indiana, the Missouri, and the torpedo-boat destroyer Whipple, steamed over from Guantanamo, Cuba, as soon as the tidings were received. As some of the incidents that followed were of a nature too delicate to handle in a book of this character, the narration already referred to in the local newspaper, the Jamaica Daily Telegraph, will be followed: “No sooner had the fleet anchored than Rear-Admiral Davis communicated with the governor and placed his sur- geons and men at the disposal of the authorities, to assist in policing the city. A large quantity of medical stores was landed, as well as a surgeon and six other medical men. The offer of the Americans to assist in policing the city was not accepted; but the naval men, however, took their tents ashore and erected them in the Public Gardens, to accommodate some of the homeless ones. ... On Thursday the prisoners in the penitentiary were in an ugly mood, the conduct of some of them bordering on mutiny. They could not be got into their cells, and consequently it was necessary to send the United States battleship Indiana to an anchorage off the penitentiary. An armed party of 76 men was landed, and half an hour later the prisoners were locked up in their cells, the presence of the military men having sufficed for this purpose. Later in the evening the Indiana returned to her former anchorage, having already embarked all the American visitors to the island. On Thursday dangerous walls were taken down, American sailors taking a prom- inent part in the work. ... On Friday afternoon the United States gunboat Yankton, tender to Admiral Davis's flagship, arrived in Kingston harbour from Guantanamo. On Saturday afternoon the other three ships sailed for Cuba. JAMAICA 207 : “It was the original intention of the American commander to spend at least ten days here; but owing to misunder- standings, which culminated in a somewhat undignified cor- respondence between the governor and Admiral Davis, the latter decided to leave that afternoon. ... In effect his Excellency the governor told Admiral Davis that he had not been invited to come to Kingston, was not wanted there, and could sail as soon as he pleased! ... In view of the magnificent work done by the American sailors, when local labourers were hanging back, in removing débris and re- covering the dead, it is most regrettable that any ill-feeling was created, for that feeling will be shared by all the American people and by millions of Englishmen at home !" “We publish with profound regret" [the Telegraph con- tinues] “copies of letters that passed between his Excellency the governor and Rear-Admiral Davis, of the American squadron. Our regret extends only to the governor's letter; for that of the admiral is courteous and friendly in tone, and absolutely no exception can be taken to its style. "It would appear that when the admiral visited his Excel- lency at Headquarter House immediately after the arrival of the squadron, Sir J. A. Swettenham requested that the ordinary salute should be dispensed with when he made the return visit. The admiral's letter shows that, through some mistake in transmitting his orders, the salute was fired when his Excellency was leaving the flagship. This seems to have given offence to his Excellency, who caused his dis- pleasure, either by verbal message or by letter, to be com- municated to Admiral Davis. The rest of the correspondence speaks for itself: “'U. S. S. MISSOURI, “‘KINGSTON, JAMAICA, January 17, 1907. “‘MY DEAR GOVERNOR : I beg that you will accept my apology for the mistake of the salute this afternoon. My orders were misunderstood, and the disregard of your wishes was due to a mistake of the transmission of order. I trust that this apparent disregard of your wishes may be over- looked. " 'I landed working parties from both ships on shore to-day 208 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES to aid in wrecking and clearing away the ruins in the streets and buildings. I propose to land parties to-morrow morn- ing for the same purpose, unless you expressly desire me not to do so. I think that there is a great deal that can be done in the way of assistance to private individuals without interfering with the forces of yourself and the government officials, and as my only object in being here is to render such assistance as I can, I trust that you will justify me in this matter for the cause of common humanity. “ 'I had a patrol of six men on shore to-day, to guard and secure the archives of the United States Consulate, together with a working party of ten men to clear away the wreckage. This party, after their work at the Consulate was done, assisted the general working party in the streets, and caught thieves and recovered from them a safe belonging to Milke Brothers' jewellery store, valued at about $5,000. From this I judge that the police surveillance of the city is not adequate for the protection of private property. “Actuated by the same motive, viz., that of common hu- manity, I shall direct the medical officers of my squadron to make such efforts as lie in their power to aid outlying cases of distress, which would not perhaps come under the obser- vation and treatment of your medical officers. "'I shall have the pleasure of meeting you at the hour appointed, viz., 10 o'clock, at Headquarter House, and I trust you will approve my action in these matters. "'I am, with high respect, “'Your obedient servant, “'(Sgd.) C. H. Davis, “Rear-Admiral U. S. Navy, Commanding Detached Squadron.' “The governor replied as follows: “ 'HEADQUARTER HOUSE, “'Kingston, January 18, 1907. “ 'DEAR ADMIRAL DAvis: I thank you very much for your kind letter of the 17th (delivered to me this morning), for your kind call, and for all assistance you have given and have offered to give us. JAMAICA 209 “'While I most fully and heartily appreciate your very generous offers of assistance, I feel it my duty to ask you to re-embark your working party and all parties which your kindness has prompted you to land. “ 'If, in consideration of the American vice-consul's assidu- ous attention to his family at his country house, the Ameri- can Consulate may need guarding, in your opinion (he was present and it was unguarded an hour ago), I have no objec- tion to your detailing a force for the sole purpose of guard- ing it, but that party must not have firearms or anything more offensive than clubs or staves for their function. “ 'I find your working party this morning helping Mr. Cross- well to clean his store; Mr. Crosswell is delighted that his work is done without cost to himself, and if your Excellency were to remain long enough I am sure almost the whole of the private owners would be glad of the services of the navy to save them expense. “ 'It is no longer a question of humanity; all the dead died days ago, and the work of giving them burial is merely one of convenience. "'I should be glad to accept delivery of the safe which the alleged thieves were in possession of from Milke's store. The Anlerican vice-consul has no knowledge of it. The store is close to a sentry post, and the officer in charge of the post professes profound ignorance of the incident; but there is still on the premises a large safe, which was opened both by fire and by other means. “ 'I believe the police surveillance of no city is adequate for the protection of private property. I may remind your Excellency that not long ago it was discovered that thieves had lodged in and pillaged the house of a New York mil- lionaire during his absence for the summer; but this fact would not have justified a British admiral in landing an armed party in assisting the New York police. “'I have the honour to be, with profound gratitude and highest respect, “ 'Your obedient servant, “'(Sgd.) ALEXANDER SWETTENHAM, “'Governor.' 210 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES "On Saturday morning, by appointment, Rear-Admiral Davis, accompanied by some members of his staff, called at Headquarter House at 10 o'clock to take formal leave of the governor. When he arrived at the Beeston Street gate he accosted Mr. Bourne, the colonial secretary, who was standing near by, and asked if the governor had arrived. Mr. Bourne nonchalantly gave an answer in the negative, but he did not ask the admiral to step into the office, nor did he offer him a chair. For fully ten minutes the admiral remained standing near the gate; and then he once more addressed Mr. Bourne in words to the following effect: “ 'I have called, sir, by appointment, to say good-bye to the governor; but evidently some business has detained him, and I cannot remain any longer. Will you be good enough to say to his Excellency that I called, and that I now say. good-bye to him? And will you also tell him something that I intended to say to him personally? I was sent here to render all the assistance in my power. I am glad to know that no assistance is required. I am also glad to know that you have abundant supplies for the suffering.' “'Oh, yes,' said Mr. Bourne calmly, 'we have plenty of supplies.' ““That being so,' continued the admiral, 'I shall, if we meet the supply ship Celtic, which is now on its way here with a large supply of beef, foodstuffs and other necessaries, the personal gift of President Roosevelt to the distressed people of Kingston, order that vessel to return to Cuba.' “‘All right,' rejoined Mr. Bourne. “‘And I shall also see that the supplies which I have landed on the wharf here are instantly taken back to my ships,' said the admiral. “\Very well,' replied Mr. Bourne. “The admiral then said good-bye and turned toward the street. At that moment the governor rode up to the gate, and the admiral and he went into his Excellency's private room for a few minutes. What transpired between them cannot be told. But the governor accompanied the admiral to his carriage and was heard to say: 'I assure you it is altogether unnecessary.' The admiral then drove off.” This episode threatened to become of international im-' JAMAICA 211 portance, but after the ferment had subsided Governor Swettenham resigned his office (in April, 1907), and nothing came of it more than great inconvenience to the people of Jamaica, who, by his injudicious action, were deprived of supplies and assistance, of which they were in dire need. They were equal, however, to the emergency, and showed themselves possessed of a resiliency not generally attributed to dwellers in tropical regions. An individual instance of push and enterprise is known to the writer-that of a young man in business in Harbour Street, whose establishment was destroyed and whose home was wrecked; though fortunately without loss of life. He first saw his family safely housed in a suburb, then returned to the city and began to clear away the ruins of his store. In a few days he had unearthed most of his goods spared by the fire, and a week after the 'quake, in the first issue of the Telegraph, he had a two-column advertisement adjuring the people to "follow the crowds into the new store of MacNish, Limited !” The same spirit seems to have animated all the white inhab- itants of Kingston, as voiced in the first editorial written and published after the fire: "To all the sufferers we give this advice: 'Quit ye like men, and be strong. The present position may be deplorable, and the outlook very dishearten- ing. But while there is life there is hope and opportunity; and those who are great and steadfast in resolve are able to achieve great and noble work. All is not lost, and the people of Jamaica are surely as able to rise to the occasion as the inhabitants of California and Chile !" More than a thousand lives were lost, including some visiting Englishmen, who had come to attend the West Indian Agricultural Conference, which was at that time in session. It had been opened by the president, Sir Daniel Morris, in an eloquent speech, and a Mr. Bovell, of Dem- erara, was reading a paper when the first shock came. "He stopped instantly, and for fully five seconds every eye was turned toward the ceiling, which during those terrible mo- ments seemed to appear to the horror-stricken company below to have been suddenly taken possession of by a regiment of soldiers, engaged in firing a feu de joie. Then, 212 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES with a horrible roaring and crackling sound, the massive brick structure rocked with terrific violence from side to side, and with a frightful jerk came to a standstill. A second or two before the earthquake ceased the delegates and visitors found their feet and with one accord made for the door leading to Hanover Street-to gaze upon dire ruin on every hand.” The 'quake indulged in many antics and freaks, judging from the remains in its path, in one instance tearing out only one side of a house and leaving the other walls standing, with the rooms exposed; in another, opening a structure from side to side and leaving the front intact. It laid hold of a statue of Queen Victoria, standing at the King Street entrance of the Garden, and waltzed her a quarter round on her pedestal. There she was discovered, after the shocks had passed, as serene and dignified as before, but gazing in a different direction !* *For the general views of Jamaica, the publishers are indebted to the well-known Brennan's Studio, 19 East Street, Kingston, which received a gold medal for high-class work from the Crystal Palace Exhibition, 1905; and to the General Manager of the United Fruit Company of Boston. The earthquake views are from Mr. A. Sylvester Taylor, New York, who has made a specialty of tropical photography for more than thirty years. SANTO DOMINGO General Description. The island of Santo Domingo and Haiti is commandingly situated in the midst of the Antillean Archipelago, between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. It is about 28,000 square miles in area, of which two- thirds pertains to the Dominican Republic and one-third to the Haitian. It is the most mountainous island of the West Indies, and contains the highest peaks, for Monte Tina, of its central cordillera, is nearly 11,000 feet in altitude. Its longitudinal axis is the Cordillera of the Cibao, in which most of its rivers have their origin, but parallel with it, near the north coast, runs the Sierra of Monte Cristi, and detached ranges occupy various portions of the island. Be- tween them lie salubrious and fertile valleys, in which may be grown every variety of vegetation to be found in the temperate and the torrid zones. The Dominican portion of Santo Domingo has many natural ports, as Monte Cristi, Puerto Plata, and Samana, on its north coast; Macoris, Santo Domingo, and Azua, on the south coast; but these mentioned are the only ones fre- quently visited. In a word, not only are its vast resources as yet unexploited—those of the mountains and interior valleys—but even the coast country is not so well known as it should be. Its population numbers about 600,000, but is not exactly known, owing to the fact that no recent census has been taken.* Although this population hardly exceeds one-half that of Haiti, and is scattered over twice the area occupied by the latter republic, it is vastly superior in every respect. Many families of the *The author's material for this chapter was mainly obtained in the island itself, but latest statistics have been verified by reference to La Republica Dominicana, an admirable précis issued by the Secretary of State, Santo Domingo, 1907. It has since been translated into English, and may be obtained by addressing the Department of Pro- motion and Public Works, Santo Domingo. 214 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Dominican Republic are descended from the Spanish conquistadores, and in their veins flows the blood of proud hidalgos, the admixture of African blood producing the various mestizos, or mixed peoples, of varying complexions. The mixed and black peoples are numerically superior, for during the many “revolutions” in Santo Domingo, especially when the late dictator, Ulises Heureaux, was in power, the cultured whites were the objects of race animosity and decimated. But there still exist families of Spanish descent, as in the towns of Moca and Santiago de los Caballeros, which can boast some of the fairest women-white or but slightly tainted with African blood—to be found in the West Indies. Historical Sketch. In order to understand the racial and political complexion of Santo Domingo it will be neces- sary to recur to its history. As an island unknown to Europeans, and occupied by aboriginal inhabitants, it ex- isted until the first voyage of Christopher Columbus revealed it to the white race. He first approached its northern shores in the month of December, 1492, sailing over from Cuba, which he had visited after leaving the Bahamas. He first landed at or near the present Mole San Nicolas, northwest coast of Haiti, and sailed thence easterly, touching in at Port de Paix, the Bay of Cape Haitien, etc., at the last- named place losing his flagship, the Santa Maria, which was wrecked on a reef. Landing on the nearest shore, he built a fort, or tower, of the wreckage, and leaving here forty of his men, sailed on easterly, calling at the present Monte Cristi, Puerto Plata, and Bay of Samana, whence he departed for Spain. The next year he returned, via the Caribbees, and finding his garrison massacred, went to a spot nearer Puerto Plata and there established the first settle- ment of white people in the New World. This place he called, and it is still known as, Isabella. In 1496 his brother Bartholomew founded another city, which has survived till to-day, on the south coast, and is known as Santo Domingo. From this city the island took its name, although its aborig- inal appellation was Haïti, or “High Land," a term very appropriately bestowed. In brief, the Spaniards, finding here a teeming population of SANTO DOMINGO 215 “'Indians,” treated them with such barbarity that in a few years they were nearly exterminated. The details of this extermination will be given as we visit the locales in which the Indians were established and where the Spaniards founded their settlements. After Columbus had been re- called to Spain, on account of his misgovernment and the enemies he had caused by favouritism, other Spaniards, scarcely less cruel than he—and some even more so-op- pressed the unfortunate aborigines. Their one object was the getting of gold, and in pursuit of it they searched the river sands and mountain placers until it would seem the island became better known to the early Spaniards than it has ever been since their time. Their success attracted the attention first of the Dutch and French buccaneers, then of the English privateers, such as Sir John Hawkins and Sir Francis Drake.. From Santo Domingo, island or city, sailed Cortés for Cuba and the conquest of Mexico; Pizarro for Darien and Peru; Balboa for the discovery of the Pacific, and many another conqueror who made his reputation by the sword. The island is identified, in short, with Columbus and his brothers; Bobadilla, his successor; Don Diego, his son; the infamous Ovando, oppressor of the Indians; Bartolomé de las Casas, “Defender of the Indians”; Ponce de Leon, the conqueror of Porto Rico and discoverer of Florida; Velas- quez, conqueror of Cuba; and a host of lesser luminaries that shone in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. After the discovery and conquest of the Central and South Ameri- can mainland, Santo Domingo declined in importance; but it should not be forgotten that she “had a hand” in all the discoveries above mentioned. All over the island are scat- tered relics of the first settlements founded by white men in America, and mementos of the conquerors, who impressed themselves indelibly upon the people, to the present genera- tion. Santo Domingo is, then, an island worthy of atten- tion, even though it lies somewhat apart from the streams of tourist travel, and is hardly prepared for visitors of any sort. It has been so preoccupied with its own affairs, mainly "revolutions,” during the past hundred years or so that it has paid scant attention to the development of its resources 216 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES or the entertainment of strangers; yet it cannot be called wholly unprogressive or inhospitable. Resources. It is a historical fact that the first gold sent to Spain from America—in truth, the first gold found by white men in America-came from this island. Gold was first seen by Columbus on the north coast of Haiti; but not until he had reached and entered the mouth of the Yaqui River, in January, 1493, did he discover the precious metal in situ. There his men, when filling their water-casks, saw glittering particles clinging to the hoops of the casks, which proved to be gold. Flakes and nuggets had been given the Spaniards by the Indians of Haiti, but when questioned as to the auriferous region, they always pointed to the moun- tains of Santo Domingo. In those mountains, at or rear the headwaters of the Yaqui, in a region then and now known as the Cibao, the Spaniards found an immense amount of gold in dust and nuggets. It is a common saying in the island that the district or commune where gold is not found is the exception rather than the rule, leaving out of the reckoning, of course, the recent or coralline formations. The central cordillera is threaded with veins of auriferous quartz, but the richest deposits are found in the placers in various parts of the territory. In the province of Santo Domingo the most notable deposits are those of the river Jaina and its tribu- taries; in that of Seybo, the arroyo Bonao; in the Cibao re- gion the river Janico, Rio Verde, and Sabaneta, where nug- gets have been found weighing several ounces each. It was from the Jaina region, it is said, that some miners in Colum- bus's time found a nugget as big as a table. The women of the Rio Verde region sometimes wash out from the river sands with wooden trays grains of gold to the amount of six or seven ounces per week. Numerous mines have been “denounced” in various sections of the cordilleras, but no deposits have been found to equal those exploited by the early Spaniards, who sent home to Spain millions of dollars in gold, mainly extracted from the earth by Indian labour under the lash. Some silver has been found in the island, but a much greater quantity of copper, which has yielded 30 to 33 per SANTO DOMINGO 217 cent. of metal to the ton of ore. Iron also is abundant, but is not mined to any extent, and the same may be said of coal, which is not, however, of the best quality. Petroleum has been discovered in great volume near Azua, on the southern coast, where the first well opened gushed to the height of 70 feet. It is believed to be in a zone or belt extending across the island and connecting, perhaps, with an extended area which embraces the oil-producing regions of North and South America. Among other resources, the island can boast a mountain of pure crystal salt, the Cerro de Sal of Neyba, south of Lake Enriquillo. Sulphur and other mineral waters, cold and warm springs, are frequent; now and then a few precious stones have been found; deposits of alum, kaolin and valuable clays are known, which might be worked to advantage by labour and capital properly directed and invested. Hitherto the resources of the island have not been thoroughly investigated, owing chiefly to the disturbed condition of the country; but with a stable govern- ment it is believed that Santo Domingo might recover its old-time prosperity. Tropical fruits, vegetables, and forestal products are of greater value than all the mineral resources combined, for the varying altitude beneath an ardent sun bestows upon the island every variety of tree and shrub and plant. All the tropical fruits that pertain to the West Indies may be grown along the coast and far up into the mountains, where their places are taken by semi-temperate and temperate prod- ucts. These fruits range from bananas to strawberries, the vegetables from yucca and yams to cabbages and potatoes, a different fruit or vegetable being possible for every degree or two of temperature as measured by altitude. Sugar- cane, cacao, cocoanuts, coffee, vanilla, etc., grow along the coast luxuriantly, and in the forests may be found rare cabinet woods—mahogany, cedar, logwood, dividivi, tobacco and coffee wood, fustic, etc. Millions of precious trees, valued for their products, fill the mountain forests, such as resinous pine and native rubber trees, the latter producing at the rate of two to five pounds of gutta-percha per annum, and said to be very profitable. There are few manufactures in the island; taxes are low, 218 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES and the revenue is derived from imports and exports, which amount, approximately and respectively, to $5,000,000 and $7,000,000 per annum. Since April, 1905, the customs have been collected by officials named by the Government of the United States, 55 per cent. of the revenues being banked in New York for the benefit of foreign creditors. This arrangement was sanctioned by treaty of 1907; but is much more to the satisfaction of the foreign creditor than of the natives of Santo Domingo, who bitterly resent this intrusion (as they term it), though not to the extent of combating it by force of arms. Although many of Santo Domingo's best harbours are occupied, several have flourishing towns and cities adjacent, and two or three inland settlements partake of the general prosperity, yet there are scores of natural ports, especially on the north coast, which still exist in the primitive solitude in which they were discovered by Columbus. They are scattered all the way froin Samana Bay to Monte Cristi; some of them have large tracts of fertile soil contiguous, some immense resources of fine woods and forestal products of the tropics. Possessing a fine climate, which varies but little from 70 to 80 degrees the year through, and to a great extent exempt from aerial disturbances and terrestrial convulsions, this country is greatly favoured by nature, and should be occupied by a more numerous population gener- ally than it is to-day. The Dominicans usually welcome foreign capital and immigration. They are not averse to modern improvements, moral or material, and the only reason they have not made greater progress is their isolation, as well as the disturbed state of their country for many years past. Roads and Railways. There are very few roads in the island suitable for wheeled vehicles, most of them being merely horse trails, which, though they may have existed for centuries, are in worse condition than when originally laid out. Travel is performed mainly on horse and donkeyback, and in the rural districts bullocks are trained for this pur- pose, the bueys, as they are called, serving as "mounts” for women and children as well as men. In the rainy season, or during the summer and early autumn, the roads are well- Puerto Plata, Santiago Railway 265 RES ENTER C Site of Isabella City, founded 1493 . SANTO DOMINGO 219 nigh impassable, for most of them contain pits, worn by the hoofs of countless animals, two or three feet in depth, filled with water and liquid mud, with which the traveller is liberally bespattered as his beast flounders from one hole to another. The longest direct road in the island connects the port of Monte Cristi with Santiago de los Caballeros and La Vega, taking mainly the course of the great Yaqui waterway. From the capital city, Santo Domingo, run several roads, or trails, that have been in use for nearly four hundred years without change or improvement. One road crosses the island and connects with the Yaqui highway at La Vega, another runs easterly to Seybo and Salva Leon de Higuey, and still another (the historic trail traversed by the Spanish conquerors) leads westerly along the southern coast to Bani, Azua, and Neyba ; one branch to Port au Prince in Haiti, and another into the valley of the Yaqui of the South, crossing numerous streams, which are sometimes raging torrents in the rainy season. Up to the end of the year 1907 but two railways had been completed in Santo Domingo, both leading inland from harbours on the north coast. These are the Sanchez-La Vega Railway, from the Bay of Samana to Concepcion de la Vega, in the Royal Plain, 132 kilometers in length; and the Ferro- carril Central Dominicano, 68 kilometers, connecting Puerto Plata and Santiago de los Caballeros. A short branch line also connects La Vega with the town of Moca, and one is projected from the latter place to Santiago. Several con- cessions have been granted for other railways, not yet con- structed, one of which is to unite the capital city with San Cristobal, in a rich and interesting region; and the other to connect the port of Romano, on the southern coast, with the interior town of Seybo. On various sugar plantations are many miles of narrow-gauge track, over which the cane is hauled to the mills and sugar transported to the ports, whence it is taken to the United States in steamers and sailing vessels. The island has a good telegraph and telephone system, the principal centres of population being connected by both sorts of wire. A submarine telegraphic cable runs from the north 220 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES coast at Puerto Plata to Haiti and Cuba, connecting with the land lines of the United States, while another runs from the capital on the south coast to Curaçao and Venezuela, beneath the Caribbean Sea. A well-regulated postal system is established, Santo Do- mingo being in the Union and sharing its privileges. Postage to the United States and other foreign countries is 5 cents per half ounce on first-class matter, with the usual rates for second-class, etc. Hotels are neither numerous nor excellent. In Santo Do- mingo City the Frances—as its name implies, under French management—is the best hostelry, at $2.50 to $3 per day. The Capital City, Santo Domingo. While Santo Do- mingo has many natural ports, it has comparatively few towns or cities of importance. The largest of these is the capital city, Santo Domingo, which was founded in the year 1496, on the east bank of the Ozama River, south coast of the island. It was transferred to the west bank in 1502, where it has ever since remained, and hence is the oldest city of European foundation in America. Hither came Christopher Columbus, after his brother had chosen the site for this city; here he once owned a house, which, however, together with the tower he built to command the harbour, has disappeared. The chapel which he used to attend, and from the doorway of which he was proclaimed a traitor and outcast, may still be seen on the left bank of the Ozama, opposite the city. From this harbour of Santo Domingo, at the mouth of the Ozama, sailed Columbus in chains, in the year 1500; into it he came in 1502, just before the great hurricane which sank the ship in which his rival and op- pressor, Bobadilla, had set sail; and he entered it for the last time in 1504, after his rescue from shipwreck at Jamaica, two years before his death. Santo Domingo is a walled city, one of the few remaining of its kind, and within it are gathered historical structures such as no other settlement in America can boast. Arriving at the mole, directly up or near to which the steamer pro- ceeds (depending upon the stage of the water), you find yourself confronted by the remains of a massive structure rising.above the city wall. This is the Casa de Colon, or SANTO DOMINGO 221 House of Columbus; not of Christopher, but his son Diego, who came out here in 1509, three years after the death of his father. By a brilliant marriage with the Duchess of Toledo he had become allied to the family of his sovereign, and so began his colonial career as viceroy with great splen- dour. He raised this magnificent palace on the west bank of the Ozama, fortified it with cannon and intrenched him- self so strongly that his king became alarmed and soon after recalled him. This fortified residence erected by Don Diego rises immediately above the wharf at which the steamer lands. It is roofless, windowless, and falling into decay, but still a grand yet gloomy pile, towering majestically above squalid huts of palm-wood and thatch; its lower rooms, where once grand dames and hidalgos used to meet, are occupied as stables for goats and donkeys. Gone is its glory, and gone are the people who knew and treasured its traditions. The Homenage, or Columbus Tower. The most stately structure in the capital is that locally known as the Homen- age, sometimes called the Columbus Castle; though the tower in which the great discoverer was confined previous to being sent to Spain in irons stood on the opposite bank of the river and no longer exists. This castle was built in 1509, by command of Don Diego Columbus, and is the oldest of its kind in America, antedating the morros of Havana, Santiago de Cuba and San Juan de Puerto Rico by several years. It is still a grand and picturesque structure, and stands in a most commanding situation upon the right bank of the river, near its mouth, above a steep cliff, wave-worn into caverns. It is now used as a prison, but entrance can be obtained to the tower, from the parapet of which a fine view offers of the city and surroundings. The cell will be shown in which the great Columbus was confined, according to local tradition; but too much faith must not be placed in this, as at the time he was a prisoner here the town occupied the opposite bank of the river. On the river bank, not far from the landing-place, the visitor may see what the natives will tell him is the genuine ceiba tree, or silk-cotton, to which Columbus made fast his caravels when he first came here; though this is not sus- 222 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ceptible of proof. Also near here stands a small stone house, which in all probability was erected by Don Diego Colum- bus, over a spring of pure water, which still gushes forth as in that time so long ago. A Walled City. The chapel building, to which reference has been made, as that from the doorway of which the down- fall of Columbus was proclaimed by Bobadilla, is known as Rosario, stands on the bank of the river opposite the city, and is in a ruinous condition, though still used for storage purposes by the owners of the sugar estate to which it at present pertains. It should be visited as well for itself as for the view of city and harbour, from the bank on which it stands. These are the few historical attractions outside the city walls of Santo Domingo, through which a mediæval gateway affords entrance. The once beautiful and stately mansions have fallen to pieces, and in their ruins sometimes lurk ragged vagrants, who sleep by night within their shelter and prowl about the streets by day. If one could make his way around the heaps of ruins that have accumulated within the walls nothing could be more interesting than an explora- tion of them, for many of the fortalezas and sentry-boxes are yet intact which were erected four hundred years ago. The city was, and is, enclosed within a massive, battle- mented wall at least 20 feet in height. Like Havana, how- ever, the city is spreading rapidly, and before long may have extended beyond the limits of its mural enclosure, for there are already many breaches, as though made by an attacking force, but probably in the interests of expansion. Visit, if you can, however, the Fuerte del Angulo, at the junction of city and river, and the near fortalezas of Santa Barbara and San Anton, near the churches of the same name. After the last named come the fuertes, or forts, of San Francisco, San Miguel, San Lazaro, La Caridad, and Concepcion, which last is the farthest inland, and from which the wall runs toward the sea, where it ends in the Fuerte de San Gil. Thus the city lies within an angle of river and sea, reinforced by fortifications, which were adequate for defence against the Indians, but which were not strong enough to withstand the battering of Sir Francis Drake's cannon, when he took the place in 1586. SANTO DOMINGO 223 Old Churches and Convents. There are nearly a dozen churches in the city, the oldest of them being San Nicolas, far gone in decay, which was founded by Governor Ovando, in 1509, as a conscience offering. Ovando had committed atrocious massacres of the Indians, among others having murdered the beautiful Queen Anacaona, and he had also oppressed Columbus and his brothers. In San Nicolas ex- amine particularly the groined canopy above the presbytery, if it is still intact. The most famous of the convents is that of San Francisco, a great bulk of buildings that is conspicuous from any point in the city, as it stands upon a hill, behind the Casa de Colon. It is now in a ruinous condition, and the habitable portion is now used as an asylum for the insane; but en- trance is not denied to visitors, who may wander about as freely as they wish. Beneath the original entrance-way the gallant Ojeda (one time companion of Columbus, and cap- turer of Caonabo, king of the Golden Mountains) was buried, according to tradition; the great altar, at the foot of which Don Bartholomew Columbus was interred, is de- molished; and we have nothing to indicate where these heroes actually lie, nor what has become of the missionaries who once occupied the now roofless cells and paced the de- serted corridors. Great arches spring across from ruined wall to ruined wall, and all are draped in vines, while cocoa trees spread their fronds above the crumbling stones. One of the beautiful churches of the city is Santa Barbara, on Calle de Comercio, near the river wall. It is undeniably ancient, primitive in its interior decoration, and with an exterior very original and even quaint. On a little hill fronting the Plazuela de San Miguel stands the old church of that name, built by the treasurer of King Charles I. about 1520—a small but attractive structure with a history. San Anton, between Santa Barbara and San Miguel, facing a street of the same name, is merely a shell of what was once a splendid church with magnificent arches; La Merced is large, but gloomy; Santa Clara, if not a more recent church, is more modern in aspect, having been restored, and the same may also be remarked of the Regina, to which is at- tached a fine and flourishing school. 224 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Of the convent churches, the most celebrated is that of Santo Domingo, which was founded soon after San Nicolas. Though ancient, its walls have preserved their integrity, and its interior has been carefully restored within a century past. It has a quaint pulpit supported upon a serpent carved from wood, an attractive altar and reredos. Sunken into the pavement are some interesting tombstones with carved escudos, or coats-of-arms. One in particular is worthy of notice, as it contains a shield with thirteen stars, surrounded by an inscription in Latin from the Scriptures. Annexed to the walls of this church are those of what was at one time the most famous structure in America, perhaps, for it con- tained the first university founded in this hemisphere. In one of the ruined apartments lived the great humanitarian, Las Casas, the companion and historian of Columbus, who once taught in this first institution of learning in America, which was founded at about the same time as the church contiguous to it. Within the walls of this old city are bits of architecture that suggest Spain and the Orient, 'for all the ancient and im- portant structures are Hispano-Moriscan, massive in style, generally surrounding open courts, sometimes beautifully modelled and decorated. For typical doorways of the early period seek out the old Mint, the Casa Moneda, which has fine medallions on doorposts and lintels; and the Casa del Cordon, which has a monk's girdle in stone suspended above the entrance-way. This building is now used as a hotel, though formerly a monastery, and is said to be connected by a subterranean passage with the convent of San Francisco. The Ancient Cathedral. The cathedral of Santo Do- mingo occupies an entire block between the Calles Con- sistorial and Comercio, facing the southern side of the paseo, which is adorned with a statue of Columbus. It was begun in 1512 or 1514, but not completed until 1540, and is more interesting historically than pleasing architecturally. Still, it is a creditable structure for an out-of-the-way island like Santo Domingo to possess, and its interior is vastly more attractive than its exterior. You must not fail to note, as the cathedral is approached from the paseo, the cannon-ball SANTO DOMINGO 225 embedded in its roof of tiles, as this is a relic of the bom- bardment of the city by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. He did his best to destroy the city at that time, but after vainly attempting to fire the principal buildings, agreed to with- draw-after he had plundered the Dominicans of all he could find--for the sum of 25,000 ducats. The main entrance of the cathedral is by the western door- way, which should be observed for its unique ornamenta- tion. As the threshold is passed, before the visitor opens the great nave, of grand proportions, flanked by lofty columns supporting a groined ceiling. The high altar, immediately in front, at the eastern end of the nave, is faced with plates of silver, the product of island mines, and has as a back- ground a splendid retable of carved wood richly gilded. At the right of the altar (facing west) is the vault from which the alleged bones of Columbus were taken-as will be de- tailed in another place. Turning now to face the western entrance, with the back to the high altar, we find the sanc- tuary of the “Santa Reliquia,” so called because it contains a sacred relic. It is a portion, a small fragment, of the Cross of La Vega, or Santo Cerro, upon which descended, tradition relates, an angel, or apparition of the most holy Virgin, at the time of the Spaniards' first encounter with the Indians of Santo Domingo. It is set in gold, enclosed in a silver casket, and shown only once a year, on the anni- versary of that miraculous occurrence. Chapels and Reliquaries. The first chapel following, still westward, contains a fine painting of the Santisima Trinidad, and also a privilegio, from Pope Benedicto XIV., year 1729, granting to any person celebrating here a mass, on any day of the year, the privilege of rescuing a tormented soul from purgatory. Next in line is the chapel of La Vir- gen de Dolores, or the Sorrowing Virgin, containing also the tomb of an archbishop. Next we find the Puerta del Pardon, or the Door of Pardon, so called from the fact that any one fleeing from justice, or an escaping criminal, reaching this doorway in advance of his pursuers, would be entitled to sanctuary and be considered safe. Over this door is an inscribed tablet conveying the information that the cathedral was finished to 226 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES this point in 1527. Through the doorway a pleasing view of the plaza, or paseo, is afforded, with the statue of Colum- bus visible. Beyond this door is a chapel containing a tomb and a gory effigy of Christ, with a real skull and crossbones beneath it, and the date 1524, showing conclusively that it was completed thus far at that time. It has a privilegio dated 1727, and is of greater importance than the two chapels succeeding, one of which, the sixth from the high altar, contains a painting and the bones of a revered saint. Op- posite the Capilla Alta Gracia, which is next to the last, beneath a tablet set into the nave, lie the remains of the celebrated historian of the West Indies, Oviedo. The last chapel on this side is that of Jesus Predicador, passing which we reach the great west door, known as the Puerta de San Pedro, Aanked by a statue of San José on the right and one of San Miguel on the left. Turning now toward the Altar Mayor, or High Altar, we have before us the chapel of Jesus en Columna, containing a revered image of la Señora de Buen Sucesos, while the next following is adorned with a very old painting, which is said to have been brought to the island by Columbus (probably Don Diego) and presented, through him, by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. There are probably several paintings by the old masters hidden away in the island, but beyond a doubt some by famous artists, and another picture in this chapel is ascribed to a pupil of Murillo, if, indeed, it is not from the great painter himself. The chapel succeeding, known as that of San Francisco, is regarded with great veneration by the natives, as it holds the first cross erected on the site of the cathedral, transferred to this niche after it was finished. An inscription across its arms is as follows: “Esta es la Insignia primera que se planto en el centro de esta Campo para dar principo a este magnifico Templomel año de MDXIX.” It is of mahogany, 9 feet high and of propor- tionate width. An exact duplicate of this holy relic was made by native workmen, under the supervision of the writer of these lines, in 1892, and sent to the Columbian Exposition of 1893, where it was exhibited in the convent of La Rabida, which had been erected there for the recep- SANTO DOMINGO 227 tion of relics pertaining to Columbus and the discovery of America. In the eleventh chapel, that of the Santisimo Sacramento, are notable portraits of the twelve apostles, ascribed to the famous Spanish artist Velasquez, and above the altar a "Virgin" by the equally famous Murillo. At least it is said to be, and may have been, for though there are no proofs existing of its authenticity, it very much resembles Murillo's workmanship; and in favour of it is the well-known fact that some of the high dignitaries sent here by the Court of Spain brought with them paintings by great artists of that country, which they presented to the cathedral chapter on their de- parture. The sagrario, or tabernacle, of this chapel is adorned with silver, and in its pavement is a tombstone 10 feet long, with a carved escudo, or coat-of-arms—a casque and helmet with flowing plumes-bearing date 1551. The Capilla de Bautismo, next beyond, has a beautifully modelled door, a fine retable, and paintings; but the next in succession, that of the Adelantado Rodrigo de Bastidas, is perhaps the finest in the cathedral. It has a domed ceiling, and is adorned with the rare Moorish azulejo tiles, used for the decoration of the Alhambra in Spain. Adelantado Bastidas was once a noted commander, who explored and tried to settle the coast of Darien, but who was killed by his men, and so here lies, together with his wife and child, as an inscription attests. Back of the jacent figure of an early archbishop in this chapel is a small cell, which was temporarily used to hold the bones of Columbus at one time. The two-leaved door of this cell is a beautiful example of sixteenth century carving in wood, and was reproduced by the writer for ex- hibition at the Columbian Exposition, 1893. At the left hand, facing the cathedral nave, is the altar of Ave Maria, with gilded retable and painting, flanked by sculptured figures of Isabella and Ferdinand, similar to those to be seen in the royal chapel at Granada. Behind this altar, in the pavement of the presbytery, is a slab above the vault in which, about forty years ago, the remains of Don Luis Colon were found, as attested by an inscription on a leaden plate discovered at the time. 228 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Here, in 1898, was erected the magnificent mausoleum of marble and bronze to the memory of Christopher Columbus, within which rest the ashes of the great discoverer. These precious relics are contained in an urna, or casket, of crystal, which is held in a niche securely guarded. Two massive bronze lions guard the entrance, and bronze tablets per- petuate the deeds of Columbus. Altogether, the monument which the Dominicans have erected here is worthy the name and fame of the man who gave a new world to Leon and Castile. Outside the cathedral, in the centre of the plaza, stands a statue of Columbus in bronze, with a figure of Anacaona, an Indian princess, who was hanged by Ovando near this spot, crouching at his feet. Thus have the Domini- cans perpetuated the memory of the man who discovered their island, who founded its first town, and began its sub- jugation. The Remains of Columbus. The last resting-place of the great discoverer, Christopher Columbus, has been a matter of dispute for many years; but there exists no doubt in the mind of the writer (who was at one time especially commissioned by the Columbian Exposition to investigate this subject) that it is in Santo Domingo. Although a some- what hackneyed subject, it will be necessary, in order to understand how it is possible that the remains of Columbus can rest in Santo Domingo (when he died in Spain, and that country still claims his burial place), to mention certain historical occurrences. Columbus discovered the island in 1492; he returned to it and established a settlement in 1493, making it his point of departure for various voyages up to 1502, inclusive. He and his brother Bartholomew, known as the Adelantado, did their best to effect a complete conquest of the island, but were opposed by seditious adventurers, and in the year 1500 were sent back to Spain in irons. Christopher returned from his last voyage to America in 1504, and died in Valla- dolid, Spain, in 1506. His ante-mortem desire, as expressed on his deathbed, and in his last will and testament, was to be taken to Santo Domingo and interred within the walls of a monastery he had been instrumental in founding in that island. In accordance with his wishes, then, he was taken SANTO DOMINGO 229 to Santo Doiningo in the year 1540, at which time the remains of his son, Don Diego, who had died in 1526, were also transferred to the island in which both had accomplished their greatest achievements. That was the ninth voyage, in life and in death, that the great Columbus had made across the Atlantic, and it was meet and proper that he should be allowed to rest within the confines of the hemisphere which he had been the means of giving to the world. Nine years later the first archbishop of the diocese wrote: “The tomb of Don Cristobal Colon, where are his bones, is much venerated in this cathedral," and that the transfer was made from Spain to Santo Domingo, where the remains were interred in the cathedral there, then recently completed, is agreed in by all the famous historians, from Herrera to Washington Irving. But there exists no official record of the transfer, and in the century following, toward the last of it, only tradition preserved the location of his burial- place. The last official statement respecting it is that of the diocesan synod, to the effect that “the bones of C. Colon are here, in a leaden case, in the presbytery [of the cathedral), according to the tradition of the old inhabitants of the island." That was in 1583, but a few years later, in 1586, just before Sir Francis Drake made his attack upon Santo Domingo, the archbishop caused all the tombs of the dis- coverers in his keeping to be covered with earth, to prevent their desecration—"especially that of the Old Admiral (Columbus), which is in the evangelio of my holy church and chapel.” Later, when the cathedral had been injured by an earthquake, the archbishop mentioned among other reasons for its restoration that "in the capilla mayor is in- terred the illustrious Don Cristoval Colon." More than 200 years later, or in 1795, when Spain ceded to France, by the treaty of Basle, the island of Santo Domingo, that "cradle of her greatness in the New World,” it was considered unworthy the greatness of Spain to allow the ashes of the man who had given America into her keeping to rest under an alien flag. So a commission was sent to Santo Domingo authorised to remove them to Havana, which remained in Spain's possession for another hundred years. There was no inscription or official record to guide the Columbus Mausoleum, Santo Domingo SANTO DOMINGO 231 impression in their country that the remains were yet in Havana. This is not the view taken by impartial investi- gators, who are convinced that while the Spaniards found nothing at all in support of their contention, having only ancient tradition to guide them, the Dominicans, on the contrary, discovered the vault containing the real and only "legitimate” remains. “The error of the Spaniards lay in their ignorance of the fact that there were two vaults, closely contiguous, both under the chancel, both on the 'gospel' side of the altar; but the one opened by the Dominicans contained actual inscriptions and remains, and was nearer the wall. The Spaniards doubtless exhumed and carried away the ashes of Don Diego instead of his father's re- mains, having had no evidence in favour of the latter, and being wholly unaware of another vault close at hand.” Accepting the evidence in support of the Dominicans' claim -and there seems to be none to the contrary-the relics taken to Havana with so much pomp, says a native historian, must have been those of Don Diego, son of the great dis- coverer, who, during his term as governor of Hispaniola (or Santo Domingo), greatly promoted the colonisation of Cuba. This being true, he continues naïvely, it seems, after all, most fitting that Cuba should have secured the relics of one who was identified so closely with her colonisation and that Santo Domingo should be allowed to retain (though unwittingly) those of the great man who founded the first city on her soil, and whose last wish was that he might rest forever in her embrace. Since that time, however, those Columbian remains (or fragments of a leaden case and bones) have made still another voyage to Spain, having been taken by the Spaniards, on their evacuation of Cuba, in 1899, to Seville, and there deposited by the side of Don Fernando, Columbus's illegitimate son. Now, while the reader has the privilege of choosing between the two remains, the Dominican and the Spanish (as to which is really genuine), he may at least inspect the vaults from which they were taken, as shown by the sacristan of the cathedral, both being at the right (facing the nave) of the high altar. He may also view, on certain days, the casket in which the latest "find” was contained, and cannot but 232 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES admire the beautiful mausoleum, with its exquisite sculptures, which holds the urna, or casket, of crystal containing the last restos de Colon. Excursions from Santo Domingo City, on the Ozama River—beautiful tropical scenery, interesting sugar planta- tions, such as the Bass Plantation, with its high-class sugar works, miles of railways for transportation of sugar cane, etc. Caves of Santa Anna, near the suburb of San Carlos, are large and attractive; said to have been the resort of abor- igines, as relics of the Indians have been found there. A few miles distant, also, are subterranean springs (“Ojos de agua”) which send out three large streams-a triple fountain of purest water. Waterfalls and cascades are numerous throughout the Republic, such as the Salto de la Toma, in San Cristobal; de los Cocos, Samana; del Violon and los Mameyes, in Puerto Plata district. Rivers abound every- where, and all are beautiful. Settlements of the South Coast. The territory of Santo Domingo is divided into four great regions, namely, the Cibao, or north country, between the central cordilleras and the north coast; the Capital, a province composed of the city of Santo Domingo and contiguous territory; the East, or the provinces of Seybo and Higuey; and the South, which is actually the West, or Southwest; and the districts of Azua and Barahona, lying in the direction of and contiguous to the Haitian border. The city of Santo Domingo, containing about 20,000 popu- lation, we have already described. From this city, as men- tioned, three great highways lead east, north, and west, connecting the Capital with all the chief places; but by means of roadways which are a disgrace to Dominican civilisa- tion. The coast towns may be reached by infrequent steamers and by sailing craft. The nearest settlement to the Capital is the suburb of San Carlos, a commune of about 6,000 people, but scarcely interesting to the traveller, though it has some old structures. It has suffered greatly in the various and frequent “revolutions,” when the paisanos, find- ing their progress arrested by the solid walls of Santo Domingo, wreaked their rage upon defenceless San Carlos. At 28 kilometers distance we find the interesting settlement SANTO DOMINGO 233 of San Cristobal, the scene of historical events, and pic- turesquely situated, containing in its commune some 25,000 people. A railroad has been projected to San Cristobal, but at present writing (1907) it can be reached only by the ordinary highway of the country. At little more than twice the distance between the capital and San Cristobal, and farther south, on the coast, we find the important town of Baní, founded in 1764, and charmingly situated in a valley near the sea. It is locally famous for the salubrity of its climate, the beauty of its women, and the valour of its men, having been the birthplace of General Maximo Gomez, the liberator of Cuba; a President of the Republic, Don Francisco Billini; and his brother, cleric and philanthropist, the Rev. F. X. Billini. The most important place on this south coast is Azua, dis- tant 134 kilometers from the Capital, which was founded in 1504 by Don Diego Velasquez, who later became the con- queror of Cuba. In this region also at one time lived Her- nando Cortés, afterward the conqueror of Mexico; Pizarro, of Peruvian fame; and Balboa, discoverer of the Pacific. The ancient town was established at a place about 3 miles to the south of the present Azua, but removed on account of earthquakes. It suffers from a scarcity of water, but of late has been supplied by means of artesian wells, which have tapped a bountiful source of supply at a depth of 60 to 70 feet. By means of irrigation, great crops of sugar- cane are raised on the adjacent plantations, some of them producing immense stalks of cane year after year without replanting. Northeast of Azua, in the mountains, at 114 kilo- meters from the Capital, lies the hamlet of Maniel, at an elevation so great that the climate is always cool and re- freshing. Its principal productions are coffee, cacao, and other tropical fruits; but the apple also grows here, and the potato, indicating the temperate character of the climate. Eighty kilometers northwest of Azua and 214 from the Capital is a most interesting settlement with an aboriginal foundation, called San Juan de la Maguana. It was here that a famous chieftain, Caonabo, a Carib warrior much feared by the Spaniards, had his residence when the Euro- peans first came to the island. Near the town, which with 234 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES its environs contains about 20,000 inhabitants, and was founded in 1504, are the remains of an ancient avenue, circu- lar in shape, paved with stone, which the natives call “el corral de los Indios.” It is not known what it was used for, but is supposed to have been a rallying-place for war or for worship. Beyond San Juan the country is almost as wild as in the time of its conquest, yet the town of Banica, some 40 miles farther toward the Haitian frontier, was founded in 1504 by Velasquez. It is scarcely of more importance to-day than then, and the roads leading to and beyond it are in no better condition, so that the vast resources of this district, consisting of precious woods, etc., cannot be profit- ably exploited. Throughout this great valley, indeed, which is watered by rivers discharging into the Caribbean Sea south of the island, and others, like the Artibonito, flowing into the Haitian Gulf, there has been little advance since the Spaniards wrested it from the Indians more than 400 years ago. Barahona, distant from the Capital about 204 kilometers, is the chief town in a district of the same name, containing about 45,000 inhabitants, and situated near the mouth of the great river Yaqui of the South. Northeast of Barahona, about 80 kilometers west of Azua and 216 from the Capital, is Neyba, containing, in town and commune, some 10,000 people. The great Yaqui of the South flows into the bay of Neyba, east of which, with waters commingling, is the Bay of Ocoa, near which Azua is situated. These waters are historic from their association with such names as Bartholo- mew and Christopher Columbus, Cortés, Balboa, Ojeda, Pizarro, and a host of other Spaniards, who crossed them in pursuit of treasure and conquest. The town of Neyba lies near the eastern shore of Lake Enriquillo, which is the centre of the aboriginal Xaragua country, where at one time dwelt an Indian queen, Anacaona, who was famous for her beauty. She was visited by Bar- tholomew Columbus, and hanged by Governor Ovando, who also massacred thousands of her subjects. To the south of Neyba lies the lake of Rincon, which is said to contain not only fish such as inhabit fresh waters, but also gigantic specimens of salt-water fish, which somehow were segre- SANTO DOMINGO 235 gated there and have since become adapted to their environ- ment. West of Rincon rises the wonderful Cerro de Sal, or Hill of Salt, and south is a desolate region as yet hardly explored. Two trails may be pursued around Lake Enriquillo, beyond the northwestern extremity of which is the Haitian frontier, not far distant from Port au Prince, where all the names of places change from Spanish to French. Port au Prince can be reached by this route from the south coast of Santo Domingo; but it is not recommended. East End of the Island. There are few places of im- portance in the east part of the island, commercially speak- ing, the largest being San Pedro de Macoris, on the south coast, 72 kilometers east of the Capital. It is situated on the east bank of the Higuamo estuary, has a fine port, and is the centre of a vast sugar-cane country, with a population, com- prising port and commune, of about 15,000. It is one of the most enterprising places in the island, and is of comparatively recent foundation. A road of the Dominican variety con- nects with the Capital, but the usual means of conveyance are afforded by small steamer, freighters, and sailing craft. The annual export of sugar from this port exceeds that from any other in the Republic, amounting to more than half a million quintals. Northwest of Macoris is San José de los Llanos, 26 kilometers distant, and from the Capital 52 kilo- meters. It was founded in the eighteenth century, and lies in the centre of a vast agricultural region, on the west bank of the Higuamo. The chief settlement of the eastern region, which anciently was known as Higuey, is Santa Cruz del Seybo, 120 kilo- meters from Santo Domingo City, and containing, with its commune, about 15,000 inhabitants. It is one of the oldest cities here, having been founded in 1502 by Juan de Esquivel, after he and Ponce de Leon had ravaged the region roundabout and conquered the Indian inhabitants. Many great fights have occurred on the savannas adjoining Seybo, and it is truly an historic centre. The very easternmost settlement of any size is Salvaleon de Higuey, which was founded by Ponce de Leon soon after Seybo was settled. It lies at a distance of 156 kilometers from the Capital, and from its heights Ponce 236 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES de Leon is said to have looked across the sea channel of Mona to Porto Rico, which he was to conquer and govern. It is about 70 kilometers from the coast, and is pleasantly situated at the confluence of two rivers, which form the Yuna of the South. All around it is a wild and historic country, for here lived the great Indian cacique Cotubanama, who fought the Spaniards bravely until killed. He was captured on the island of Saona, off the coast directly south of Higuey, where are caves in which he and his people hid from their pursuers. Mines of gold are worked at Bonao, not far distant, and the region is celebrated for the excellence of its cacao. Town and commune are said to contain 15,000 inhabitants. The place is noted far and wide in Santo Domingo for its image of the “Virgin of Altagracia,” to visit and worship which many thousand people make annual pilgrimages. Hato Mayor, with about 10,000 inhabitants, lies 92 kilo- meters northeast of the Capital and 40 west of Seybo, on the main road. Its wealth is derived from the soil, mainly agricultural. La Romana is a recently-founded settlement on an excellent natural harbour, which is to be connected by rail with Seybo, from which it is distant only 44 kilometers, and from the Capital 120, in a direct line. Villa Duarte, on the east bank of the Ozama River, not far from the orig- inal site of the Capital, is the chief settlement of a commune containing some 10,000 people, and generally known as Pajarito. Here stands the ancient chapel which was built in the time of Columbus, to which reference has been made, A sugar plantation surrounds it, at the extreme tip of which, near the sea, may be found the ruins of the first settlement and Spanish tower, erected about 1496. In this territory, about an hour's walk from the Capital, are the wonderful caverns of Tres Ojos, which contain three small lakes in their depths, of clear crystalline water. San Antonio de Guerra, 30 kilometers from the Capital, was founded at the beginning of the eighteenth century, and con- tains about 3,000 inhabitants. It is celebrated for its beauti- ful lagoons of potable water. By means of the river Yabacoa the natives carry on an extensive traffic in canoes with the Capital. SANTO DOMINGO 237 Bayaguana, 48 kilonieters from the Capital, is near the picturesque waterfall of Comate, in the river of that name, and was founded in 1606 by people from two seaports which were destroyed by order of Philip III. in order to check smuggling from foreign ships. It contains about 2,500 inhab- itants, chiefly engaged in the cultivation of cacao. Monte Plata, 45 kilometers north of the Capital, was also founded in 1606, by people who had been banished from Monte Cristi and Puerta Plata, for the same causes men- tioned above. It has about 4,000 inhabitants. Villa Mela, formerly Sabana Grande, is a settlement of recent foundation, but already counts about 3,500 inhabitants, owing to its excellent soil and situation on the national road from the Cibao to the Capital. Boya, with about 3,000 inhabitants, 52 kilometers north- northeast of the Capital, is a historic settlement, having been founded in 1533 by the Cacique Enriquillo, who had carried on a successful rebellion against the Spaniards. He was assigned a reservation here by treaty with Charles V. of Spain, and gathered about him the remnant of his people, then reduced from estimated millions, at the time Columbus landed in the island, to a few hundred. There are no Indians remaining, it is said, of direct aboriginal descent, but many natives in whose veins runs their blood, mingled with that of Spaniard and African. The old church in which Enriquillo and his people worshipped still stands, a quaint and interesting monument of that early period of Dominican history. It is of stone, and in style of architecture com- posite aboriginal Gothic. The lands adjacent are fertile and the scenery picturesque, The North Coast. Bay of Samana. Samana Bay, north- east coast of Santo Domingo, constitutes in its entirety one of the largest and finest harbours in the world. The penin- sula of Samana on the north, which protects it from the ocean, is 40 miles in length and surpassingly beautiful. Rounding Balandra Head, which is the seaward face of Mount Diablo, 1,500 feet in altitude, the steamer passes cliffs and beaches, alternating, hung with vines and over- topped by cocoa-palms, the real harbour being found a few miles within the Gulf, at Santa Barbara. Samana Bay, or 238 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Gulf, from its strategic situation, in a direct line between the Atlantic ports of the United States and Panama, com- manding both the Mona and the more distant Windward Passage, possesses every qualification for a great coaling and naval station, and has long attracted the attention of foreign nations. It has many natural advantages, but above all, deep water and a commanding position. Since the United States acquired Porto Rico the need of another naval station in these waters is no longer imperative; but there is none other that possesses all the advantages provided by Samana. If the peninsula alone could be acquired, with free scope in the waters adjacent, the United States would then have deep and capacious harbours, numerous ridges capable of being impregnably fortified, and a salubrious region for camps and settlements. Santa Barbara de Samana. The actual port of Samana pertains to the sinall but very picturesque town of Santa Barbara, the political and natural capital of the peninsula. It is guarded on the north by high hills, and at its feet opens a landlocked harbour, a perfect cul-de-sac, separated from the great Gulf by the islet of Carenero. It is distant from the Capital, northeast, 126 kilometers; but the journey thither overland is difficult and rarely performed, the sea-trip by steamer being preferable. A line of reef-connected islets protects the inner harbour, where are secure anchorages for large steamers, even in the most stormy weather, a narrow opening toward the east giving ingress and egress. The steep hillsides to the north are cultivated to their summits, and present beautiful sites for residences; the valley lands are very fertile, the palm- fringed beaches of fine sand are delightful for bathing, the little harbour and the bay perfectly adapted for boating, and the reefs for shell-hunting and fishing. Santa Barbara has all the requisites for a delightful winter resort, except the very necessary hotels and boarding-houses. These are lack- ing; but where nature has done so much, these desiderata might easily be supplied. The winter climate is perfect, the scenery entrancing ; but the inland roads and trails are not inviting to the ease-loving tourist. Added to the scenic attractions, there is a bit of history SANTO DOMINGO 239 which Samana can claim exclusively, for the great bay was visited by Columbus on his return from the first voyage to America. It was in January, 1493, that his two caravels rounded Balandra Head and made a landing at a little cove which he subsequently called the “Bay of Arrows," from the fact that the Indians he found here literally showered his landing-party with their missiles. Here the first blood was shed in an encounter between Europeans and Indians in America---unless we except the alleged affrays between the Norsemen and the Skrellings, on the coast of Massachusetts, 400 years before. . The Indians finally were placated, and after Columbus had secured some specimens of gold and a few men to guide him to the Isle of the Amazons, he sailed away, eventually to arrive at his home port without another landing in the New World on that voyage. Santa Barbara is a few miles distant from the Bahia de las Flechas, or Bay of Arrows, for which a boat and men may be obtained at the harbour. It is a pleasant sail thither, past curving beaches backed by tropical trees and vines, and one the visitor should not miss, for its own sake, even if the historic association does not prove attractive. The town was founded in 1756, by Canary Islanders, but received a notable addition to its population in 1825, at which time arrived many black and coloured immigrants from the United States, whose descendants still speak English and profess the Protestant religion. They are the most peaceable and industrious citizens of the Dominican Republic, a former president once told the writer, and many of them have acquired wealth by the cultivation of tropical fruits, like cocoa, cacao, bananas, etc. The total population of Santa Barbara and its environs is about 8,000. It is the opinion of those acquainted with the resources of the country that the Samana Peninsula and contiguous territory inland possess great possibilities for exploitation. Port of Sanchez and Railroad. The port of Sanchez, or Las Canitas, as it was formerly called, lies at the extreme northwestern end of the Gulf, 40 kilometers from Santa Barbara and 120 from the Capital, in a direct line-which, however, cannot be followed as a route between these two places. Sanchez is of recent foundation, yet it is the busiest 240 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES place on the north coast, perhaps excepting Puerto Plata, on account of the railroad which runs from the Gulf at this point to the interior. Sanchez of itself is not a very cheerful place of residence, but the hills back of it are beautiful, some of the adjacent beaches attractive. It lies near the mouth of a great river, the Yuma of the North, which swarms with alligators and water-fowl, and runs through a country abounding in natural resources. The water is shallow at Sanchez, however, and there is no fine harbour as at Santa Barbara-where, in fact, the railroad referred to should have had its terminus. There is one small hotel at Sanchez, the Nagens, at $2.25 per day, and board may be obtained at two or three private houses on inquiry of the railroad officials. Sanchez is chiefly of importance as an outlet to a vast valley lying between the Sierra de Monte Cristi, or coast range of great hills, and the central Cordillera of the island. This valley or plain extends from the Gulf of Samana in the east to Manzanillo Bay in the northwest, a distance of 120 miles in a straight line, and with a varying width of from 30 to 50 miles. It is one of the most beautiful, and, with reference to its fertility, one of the richest valleys in the world. The first railroad in active operation in this island was that which now connects the port of Sanchez with the town of La Vega, about 60 miles inland. The concession was first given to an American in 1882, but in 1883 it fell into the hands of an energetic Scotchman, Mr. Alexander Baird, who, with his own resources solely, pushed it through to com- pletion as far as it runs to-day. The creation of a port at Las Canitas, since christened Sanchez, was the least of the labours attendant upon this great work, as a nine-mile swamp was encountered at the outset which necessitated filling to the depth of 15 to 20 feet. It was completed in 1885, and has ever since been regularly running, to the great benefit of this vast valley and contiguous territory. Sanchez is the capital of a commune containing some 3,000 inhabitants, who are chiefly supported by commerce carried on with the in- terior, and the ports dependent upon this one for supplies. Sabana del Mar. Before proceeding inland, let us glance at another port of Samana, which is the only other of im- SANTO DOMINGO 241 portance, and lies on the south shore of the Gulf. This is Sabana del Mar, which was founded in 1756, and is capital of a commune with 3,000 people. It is about 100 kilometers distant from the Capital, and when a projected railroad shall be constructed between these two ports, one on the north and the other on the south coast, will be a place of consequence. At present it is celebrated for its tropical fruits, particularly cacao, bananas and such, and for the herds of cattle which graze its broad savannas. The Samana-La Vega Railway. An enterprise like this, which entailed at the outset an expenditure of more than $2,000,000, could not but benefit the territory adjacent; though, owing to the Dominican character, its beneficial re- sults are more apparent than real. The road at first runs through the lowland region with every variety of tropical vegetation to attract attention, but the straggling villages along the line are far from attractive or promising. The place of most consequence is Concepcion de la Vega, a large and scattering town of huts and wooden houses, which does a great deal of business, being the market and railroad centre for a vast region adjacent. The population is said to be about 30,000, is coloured in the main; but there are some white people intermixed, whose, ancestry belonged to the Spanish hidalguia, or nobility. The first Concepcion de la Vega was founded by Bartholomew Columbus, in 1495, but the present settlement is the second to bear the name, having been removed to the right bank of the river Camu, a trib- utary of the Yuma, in 1564. The lands around it are fertile and capable of producing any kind of tropical fruit or vegetable. It is distant from Sanchez about 100 kilometers, and from the Capital about 140. To make the journey from La Vega to Santo Domingo City three days are generally consumed, as the road is a very poor one and traversable only on horseback. If the trip be made in the wet season, five days will be necessary, as the rivers are then in flood. It is, however, perfectly safe for horsemen, and there is telegraphic and telephonic communication at various points on the way. There are no good hotels en route, but enter- tainment for man and beast, à la Arab fondouk, may be had at Cotui, 52 kilometers southeast of La Vega, and at 242 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Antonsi. This road, like that between La Vega and Santiago de los Caballeros, is in about the same condition as it was at the time of Columbus, whose brother Bartholomew was one of the first white men to traverse it, between 1494 and 1496. Around the level and extensive plain, which is sit- uated in a bend of the river Camu, is a beautiful range of pine-covered hills, the vegetation of two zones meeting mid- way and blending the pine and the palm. Hotels: Ayuso (Spanish), $2 per day; Clamens (French), $2.50_a very good place. Jarabacao is a valley at high altitude, about 30 kilometers distance from La Vega, in the mountains, and almost within view, where, owing to the coolness of the climate, fruits and vegetables of the temperate zone are grown in profusion, as well as those of the sub-tropic regions. It lies at the con- Auence of the Yerbabuena with the Yaqui of the North, and occupies a superb situation, though the settlement is miserably poor. This valley and that of Constanza, many leagues to the south, but also in the mountains, were retreats of the Indians, many relics of whom have been discovered in the forest. There is a magnificent cataract at Constanza, at a height of 3,000 feet above the sea. Cotui, at 52 kilometers from La Vega and 96 north of the Capital, was founded in 1505, and is thus more than 400 years old as a settlement, though it has been unprogressive for centuries. At that time it was celebrated for its stores of gold, silver, and copper, from which circumstance it was also called Las Minas, or the Mines. There are said to be 10,000 people in town and commune; but statistics of this sort are unreliable. Bonao, southwest of Cotui and 44 kilometers south of La Vega, is another ancient mining town which has decayed since the mines became unproductive; but at the time Colum- bus exacted tribute from the Indians it contained a fort to defend the mines and compel the tribute. San Francisco de Macoris, a small but beautifully located . town, lies in the shadow of the Monte Cristi range, and is connected with La Vega by a branch line, which is said to be the best-paying part of the road. It is very rich in the "riety and quantity of its agricultural products, the fertile SANTO DOMINGO 243 soil yielding cacao, especially, of the best quality. Many of its inhabitants, reputed to be 30,000 in number—town and commune—are of high-class Spanish extraction, and the ladies are locally famous for their beauty. Moca, town and commune, about midway between Macoris and Santiago, said to contain 30,000 inhabitants, is very similar to Macoris in general features, productions, and population. It is to be connected with Santiago by rail, whenever the government official who has the concession shall have accumulated dinero enough to build the same, and thence extended to Monte Cristi. A former president of the Republic, General Ulises Heureaux, was assassinated here in 1899. Santo Cerro, or the Holy Hill, of Santo Domingo, about 2 leagues distant from La Vega, with which it is connected by a road, good in the dry season, but hardly more than a bridle trail at best, is one of the greatest natural attractions in the island. It is also held in reverence because of a miraculous occurrence here in 1494. Rising about 600 feet above the great Vega Real, or Royal Plain (a name applied by Columbus to this vast valley between La Vega and Santi- ago), it commands a glorious view of palm-covered savannas, tree-crowned hills and sparkling rivers. The prospect from the summit of the Cerro is one of the grandest in America, or rather the most beautiful. When Columbus came here in 1495, intent upon the subjugation of the Indians, he was at first received with hospitality; but a battle eventuated, during which he occupied a position on the crest of the hill, beneath a great nispero tree, the re- mains of which are visible to-day. He watched his mail- clad soldiers massacre the defenceless Indians, his blood- hounds tear them limb from limb, and in gratitude to God for his victory he erected a cross near by to commemorate the event. After he and his men had left the place some Indians espied this cross and approached to revile it. As they did so, local tradition states, the figure of a woman descended from the clouds and alighted on an arm of the cross. The stones they cast and the arrows they shot passed through her without inflicting any harm, and recognising the celestial origin of this apparition, they fell down and wor- 244 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES shipped on the spot. This was the miracle that made the cross (a fragment of which is enshrined in the cathedral at the Capital) a most holy relic. This hill where Columbus stood and where the miracle took place is thus a sacred spot, dear to all the natives, who come here on pilgrimages, walking on their knees from base to summit, where stands a church which was erected with the contributions of the faithful. The hill itself is half covered with a tropic forest growth and crowned by the church, or chapel, the view from which, as already mentioned, is one of the world's most entrancing pictures. From a height of 600 feet one looks down upon an immense area of tropical gardens occupied by palm-thatched huts, flaming with the vivid crimson of flamboyant trees, forests of royal palms, cocoas, groves of cacao, coffee, plantains and bananas; and beyond this plain of paradise rises the grand Monte Cristi range. The valley is populous, yet appears unoccupied ; it is fertile, yet hardly cultivated; beautiful as a dream of heaven, yet with few who can appreciate that beauty ever to look upon it. Fort Concepcion. About 2 miles from the base of Santo Cerro are the ruins of a fort which was erected by Colum- bus in 1495, and named by him Concepcion de la Vega. Around it gathered the settlement to which reference has been made, and which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1564. Near it was at one time a large convent, now in ruins, in which it was the desire of Columbus that his re- mains should be deposited, as expressed in his last will and testament. A chapel was also built here, the first to be erected after that of Isabella, 1493. When Isabella was abandoned the bell that had hung in its tower and which had been a gift to Columbus from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, was taken hither, tradition relates, and did service until an earthquake destroyed the edifice in the tower of which it hung. Church and village were aban- doned, and for centuries remained neglected; but some thirty or forty years ago a man going through the forest in which were the ruins saw a strange object in a tree. It proved to be the veritable bell from Isabella, which had been caught in the embrace of a parasitic “fig” or wild rubber tree and lifted SANTO DOMINGO 245 from the crumbling tower. It was recovered and taken to Santo Domingo City, where the writer secured it as an exhibit for the Columbian Exposition of 1893. It remained that summer in the Rabida Convent, at Chicago, and was returned to Santo Domingo after the Exposition was over. The authenticity of this relic is hardly to be doubted, and it is to be hoped that it may once more return to the United States, as a precious acquisition for some one of our museums. Santiago de los Caballeros. Twenty miles northeast from Concepcion de la Vega is another and more flourishing settlement, that of Santiago de los Caballeros. It was founded in 1504 by thirty caballeros, or gentlemen, of noble ancestry, who obtained from the King of Spain permission to add the distinguishing appellation to that of Santiago, or Saint James. It is the capital of the province, and ranks next to the Capital in population, containing, it is said, about 45,000 people in the city, environs, and commune. They are not all at present connected with distinguished ancestry in Spain, for most of them are very much “mixed” as to racial characteristics; but there still exist here some families who can quite legitimately make that boast. Some of them still cherish ancient swords and bits of armour, which have been passed down from the time of the con- quistadores, and there are ancient buildings here also which carry us back to that period early in America's history. Santiago has suffered from the buccaneers, has been almost destroyed by “revolutionists,” both from Haiti and other sections of its own island, and yet we find it to-day quite bright and flourishing. This is owing to the energy and enter- prise of its leading citizens, who have constructed a well- planned plaza in the centre of the city, with a music-stand, trees, flowers, and shrubbery, and carried out many other works of improvement, which greatly redound to their credit. The city is commandingly situated on a high bluff of the Yaqui River, which drains an immense and fertile region abounding in varied resources. The climate here is superb, especially in winter, and, being in the highlands, Santiago rarely suffers from febrile epidemics. It has three churches, the fine plaza mentioned, an institute, a governor's and a 246 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES municipal palace, a grandly-planned cathedral, in which rest the remains of the late President Heureaux, a fortaleza, or fortified tower, dominating city and country, and many solidly-constructed houses. It is connected with the coast at Puerto Plata by a railway; but it was the writer's mis- fortune to first approach Santiago over the so-called “high- way” between it and La Vega, and the exploiting of its 20 miles of mud-holes will linger long in his memory as an experience he would not care to repeat. Between these two towns there is hardly a house worth half a hundred dollars, yet many of the paisanos, or countrymen, are very wealthy and also refined. Its market is large and well attended. The visitor should make it a call when crowded with country people from the surrounding districts, for these natives are very interesting in their habits, costumes, and the character of their products. They make a rude pottery, they weave hammocks and baskets, and they sometimes bring in nuggets of gold from the mountain streams. Santiago is the centre to which they flock, and its agricultural productions, especially tobacco and maize, are enormous in bulk and of excellent quality. The city is distant from the Capital about 190 kilometers, but rarely is the direct journey attempted overland of late, owing to the fatigues and lack of accommodations en route. It is only 68 kilometers to Puerto Plata, where steamer may be taken around the northeast coast-as will be explained in the paragraph on the Central Dominican Railway. Hotels : Garibaldi (Italian), $2.50 per day; Café Gd. Col- mado (Porto Rican restaurant); Café de W. Guerrero (Do- minican). San José de las Matas. The environs of Santiago are extremely interesting to the student of history, for there he may find the ruins of several early settlements, as, for ex- ample, Jacagua, a league or so distant from the city, and which was founded in advance of the latter place. Below the city runs the swift and turbulent Yaqui, or River of Reeds, which is crossed by a ferry. Santiago overlooks the river and adjacent country, and its citadel towers above all surrounding objects, presenting a magnificent view of plain, forest, and distant mountains. In these mountains several SANTO DOMINGO 247 settlements may be found, if the traveller cares to take the trip on horseback, animals and guides for which can be procured in the city. San José de las Matas, 40 kilometers from Santiago, is one of these, situated in the healthful pine-forest region, where altitude and atmosphere combine to make it renowned for salubrity. The unfortunate thing is, that no hotel or place of entertainment can be found here, and the visitor is thrown upon the hospitality of the people, which is proverbial, but inadequate for providing one with more than mere sustenance and shelter. The priest of the commune is generally the host of chance travellers in this re- gion, and rarely fails in meeting their requirements. San José has a quaint church 400 years old, and a primitive popu- lation engaged chiefly in weaving panniers or hampers for the transportation of tobacco. Many of the men and women ob- tain a scant living by washing gold from the streams, as this is a locality in which it has been known to exist ever since the first settlement. Janico and Santo Tomas. The mountain hamlet of Santo Tomas, on the river Janico, is near the first fort erected by Columbus after he had settled at Isabella, about 1494 or 1495. It was built here in order to protect the Spaniards in search of gold, with which the streams of this region abound. Here occurred the adventures of Alonzo de Ojeda and Cacique Caonabo, as narrated in Irving's Life of Columbus. A full account of the transactions here and a description of the locality is given in the writer's book, In the Wake of Columbus; and it will suffice to say here that no more fascinating locality presents itself for explora- tion, even after the lapse of time since the old fort was built, than in the mountains of the Cibao, as this region was called. Janico is about 40 kilometers southwest of Santiago, in the region of pines, where the air is delicious and pure; but there are no accommodations for the stranger, unless he trespasses upon the hospitality of the priest. In the winter time, however, when the air is dry (as it is always sweet and pure), there should be no objection to “camping out,” and a party equipped for this purpose would find it very enjoyable. The remains of the fort erected here by orders 248 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES of Columbus are scarcely discernible, but may be found by close search in a bend of the Janico, which here ripples over a bed of pebbles said to be veined with gold. Valverde, a settlement about 52 kilometers from Santi- ago, has rich resources in its pineries, and also in deposits of gold. Scattered throughout the commune is a population of perhaps 4,000 people, all of them subsisting from the soil and very poor. From Santiago to Monte Cristi, on the northwest coast, a road, well constructed for Santo Domingo, follows the right bank of the Yaqui. Small settlements exist at intervals a few leagues apart, but in the entire distance there is no hostelry of any sort. It is a popular tradition that carriages may be driven over this highway, but the usual mode of travel is on horseback. Esperanza, 20 kilometers from Santiago, is the chief town encountered on this route, and contains some 2,000 in- habitants. Settlements on the North Coast. Puerto Plata, or San Felipe de Puerto Plata, as it is locally called, has the repu- tation of being the brightest, prettiest, most progressive of Dominican cities. It is beautifully situated on a picturesque peninsula jutting out from the north coast at the foot of a mountain more than 2,000 feet in height. This mountain, Isabel de Torres, is covered with thick forest, and its summit usually wreathed in clouds resembling a white turban, from which fact the port at its feet derived its name, La Plata, the Port of the Silver Mountain. Other traditions are to the effect that its name was bestowed on account of the vast amount of silver brought here by wreckers of Spanish galleons, notably by Sir William Phipps, in the latter part of the seventeenth century, who obtained many tons of ingots from a treasure-ship lying off the Silver Shoals, north of Puerto Plata. Whatever may have been the origin of the name, it is well applied, for the town, or city, is as bright and shining as a silver dollar. It occupies the neck of a peninsula, one side of which is washed by waves of the Atlantic and the other curves around a placid bay, within which vessels of all kinds may find secure though restricted anchorage. Interior of Church, Santo Domingo City VO KA Columbus Casket, Santo Domingo 250 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Amsterdam, who employed Belgian engineers to construct the road, for which special bonds were issued by the Do- minican Government. The Belgians constructed 14 miles of the road, from Puerto Plata over the mountains, em- ploying the rack-and-cog system (crémaillère) on the heavy grades, which vary from 6 to 10 per cent. The rights and franchises were then transferred to the so-called “San Do- mingo Improvement Company,” of New York, which com- pleted the remaining two-thirds of the road to Santiago. The scenery along the line is extremely fine, reaching its culmination at Altamira, the crest of the mountain range, 30 kilometers from Puerto Plata. At this point, just before the tunnel through the Cumbre, or Crest, is reached, which is 960 feet in length, a stop of twenty minutes is made for breakfast at the fonda, or wayside restaurant. This is the highest point on the line, more than 2,000 feet, and the view is not unlike that from the railway between La Guayra and Caracas, coast of Venezuela, climbing as this road does from the tropical shores to the cool altitudes of the inland mountains. The stations along the line are unimportant, one of the most recent being Bajobonico, which became a nucleus of settlement while the road was in process of construction, and now contains perhaps 1,000 inhabitants. At Altamira, on the Cumbre, the climate is favourable to the cultivation of wheat and other grains of the temperate zone. Deposits of coal, fignite and anthracite have been found in the commune and are being worked. There is a population, scattered, of about 4,000. The chief place on this road is the city at the end of it, Santiago, which has been described already on page 245. There has been no special development along the route since it was opened, but business is increasing constantly. Fares: Puerto Plata-Santiago, first class, $3.85; second class, $2.55, with a local general rate of about 10 cents a mile. The road, which was inaugurated and placed in full opera- tion on August 16, 1897, is actually the property of the Dominican Government, and is leased to the “Improvement Company" for a term of years, under an operating contract. SANTO DOMINGO 251 Its capacity is estimated at 20,000 tons per annum, at $10 per ton. The rolling stock in use is American, the buildings along the line chiefly Belgian, and the bridges are of British construction. The cost of construction was much greater than it should have been, owing to the unnecessary rack-line between the coast and the mountains, the upkeep of that portion costing more than twice as much as the remaining two-thirds. Much of the material for construction was ob- tained in the island, the roadbed being laid with hardwood ties taken from the forests along the line. Itinerary, Puerto Plata and Santiago. TRAIN No. 2 TRAIN No.1 Kilo- Kilo- Leave for Leave for meters STATIONS meters Puerto Santiago Plata Read down. Read up. 6.00A.M. O .... PUERTO PLATA. O P.M.5.40 6.12.... 4 .... San Marcos........... 4 ... 5.20 7.00.... ....La Sabana........... 3 ... 5.05 7.10.... II ....La Agüita...... ... 4.55 7.25.... 13 ....Barrabás 7.30.... 14 ....Corozal ... ... 4.35 .BAJOBONICO ...... 7.55.... 20 ....Pérez ............... ... Llanos de Pérez.. ....Quebrada Honda.. .... Lajas .......... 8.30.... ....Higüero ......... 8.40.... ...ALTAMIRA (Los Arroyos) .... El Cupey ..... 3.20 9.10.... ...La Cumbre (Túnnel).... 3.10 .... Cañada Bonita...... 2.50 9.40.... .Guanábano ...... ... 2.40 10.10.... ....NAVARRETE ... 2.10 10.30.... Las Lavas..... ... 1.50 10.40.... ....PALMAREJO ..... ... 1.40 10.50..... .... Las Lagunas........ 11.00.. .... Quinigua ........... ... 1.20 II.15.... .... Jacagua .......... 4 ... 1.05 11.30.... ....Gurabito ........... ... 12.50 11.40.... 68 ....SANTIAGO ....... .. 2 ... 12.40 ... 4. 7.45.... .. 4.15 4.IO ........ . 8.15.... ............... 3.40 9.30.... ''''' 1.30 Waterfalls. In the district of Puerto Plata are two fine cascades, the Cascada de los Mameyes, in the river of that name, and del Violón, in the same stream. Both are beauti- ful, being set in the most attractive tropical scenery. Other 252 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES attractions near: Caves of Copey; Isabel del Torre Moun- tain; United Fruit Company's banana estate at Losua ; San Marcos sugar estate ; Labana Hill (first cog ascent by rail). Hotels in Puerto Plata: Europa (Italian), $2.50 per day; Tres Antillas (Porto Rican), $1.50; Fonda Espanola (Span- ish), no fixed charge, with good table and wines. Boarding- house by Sra. Leñora Benedicto, $2 (Dominican). Isabella, founded 1493. The first Spanish city in Amer- ica, and hence the first that owes its origin to white men, was that of Isabella, founded by Christopher Columbus in 1493, on the north coast of Santo Domingo. It is hardly accessible to the ordinary traveller, but if one is willing to "rough it" for a while he may reach it from Puerto Plata by chartering a small vessel and sailing some 50 or 60 miles westerly until off the mouth of the Bajo- bonico River. If the goleta, or native schooner, does not draw too much water, landing may be made inside the reefs that protect the harbour, and if any one is still living at the Casa Passalaigue, on the bank of the Bajobonico, shelter for a time may be obtained there. But it is a doubtful experiment, and one making it must be prepared for poor shelter and hard luck. Isabella, as all intelligent Americans ought to know, was founded by Columbus after his return to Santo Domingo on his second voyage, December, 1493. He erected here several stone structures, including a small church, or chapel, and began a settlement. It has never been explained why he landed here, at a place where no good harbour ever existed; but it was probably because the little port is the nearest to the Cibao, or Gold Region, from which the natives of Haiti had obtained (they told him) the precious metal they pos- sessed. He had obtained from them such big nuggets, and they seemed so plentiful, that he was anxious to explore the golden region. The first thing he did, therefore, after pro- viding for the safety of his people, was to organise an ex- pedition to the mountains, which could be seen, dim in the distance, many leagues away. This was early in 1494, when he founded the fort of Santo Tomas, in the Cibao. He found such rich promise of gold in the country that he made another expedition the next year, during which he fought SANTO DOMINGO 253 the great battle of La Vega and accomplished the subjugation of the Indians. Isabella did not last long as a settlement, for the place was unhealthful, there were no means of subsistence, and by the end of the century it was abandoned, the remnants of the settlers going to Santo Domingo City, on the south coast. Very little remains of it in situ, since its ruins have mostly crumbled, and the last of the rocks composing the walls were sent to the Columbian Exposition of 1893. A monument has been erected there, through the efforts of the late Nathan Appleton and other Americans, so the site has been re-located and snatched from oblivion. Near Isabella is a cavern, called la cueva de los frailes, in which was discovered an ancient deity of the aborigines carved from wood, which is now in the National Museum at Washington, United States. Mahogany and other precious woods are found in this district. The owner of Isabella, Mr. Passalaigue, who generally resides there, is cultured and hospitable. Monte Cristi, or San Fernando de Monte Cristi, is the capital of a district of the same name in the extreme north- west of Santo Domingo. It was founded in 1533, but the site was discovered by Columbus in 1493. In January of that year, after the loss of his flagship in the bay of Cape Haitien, as he was sailing along the north coast, he came in sight of a mountainous peninsula projecting into the sea. He gave it the name it bears to-day, and as he had found grains of gold in the sands of the river which flows near, he called that the Rio del Oro, or River of Gold-now known as the Yaqui. The town lies about a mile from the port, with which it is connected by a tramway. There is little vegetation here, owing to the infrequency of rains, but large crops can be raised by irrigation. The principal pro- ductions and exports are dye woods, dividivi, and tobacco. About 10,000 inhabitants exist in the district, whose chief diversion seems to be playing at "revolution." Nearly all the banished officials who desire to “revolute” come to Monte Cristi as a starting-point, owing to its distance from the seat of government, more than 300 kilometers. It is the outlet of the highway from La Vega and Santiago dowr 254 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the right bank of the Yaqui, and the nearest settlement to the Haitian frontier on the north coast. No good hotel here, but several boarding-houses. Means of Communication. New York and Santo Do- mingo: The only line connecting the Dominican portion of Santo Domingo with New York, direct, is the long-estab- lished Clyde Line, with sailings fortnightly, touching at Turk's Island, Bahamas, out and return. The steamers of this line are first-class in every respect, and as they call at all the principal ports of the Dominican Republic, north coast and south, opportunities are afforded for a compre- hensive acquaintance with an island, the numerous attrac- tions of which are but little known to the travelling public. Rates: To and from Turk's Island, $40; Monte Cristi, Santo Domingo, $50; Puerto Plata, $50; Samana (Santa Barbara), $60; Sanchez, $65; Macoris, $70; Santo Domingo City, $70; Azua, $75. Havana and Santo Domingo: Cuban Company, Sobrinos de Herrera, weekly, from and for Havana, via north coast of Cuba and Santiago de Cuba; first-class passage, $50, American gold. Havre, France, and Santo Domingo: Compañia General Transatlantica, monthly, calling en route at St. Thomas and Porto Rico, arriving at Puerto Plata the 5th of each month. An inter-insular branch of the same line, from Fort de France (calling at Guadeloupe, St. Thomas and southern ports of Porto Rico) to Santo Domingo, Jacmel, and Port au Prince, Haiti; returning same route, monthly. Monthly service, connecting with the transatlantic steamers for and from France. Hamburg-American Line, monthly, touches at all southern ports, for St. Thomas, Havre, France; and Hamburg, Ger- many. Also an Intercolonial Line from and to St. Thomas. Local Coast Line, the Compañia Anónima de Navegación, leaves port of Santo Domingo (city) at 10 P.M. Mondays for San Pedro de Macoris and La Romana; returning Wednesdays, and sailing Thursdays, 10 P.M., for Azua and Barahona, returning Saturdays. HAITI The “Black Republic.” Whoever bestowed upon the Haitian portion (about one-third) of this beautiful island the appellation by which it is best known, it is certainly à propos. This fact will be strongly impressed upon the stranger at first sight of any of its ports, with their wharves swarming with black and coloured people. But as they came into this heritage through no initiative of their own, and after a long period of bloodshed and massacre; and, more- over, as the white man brought their ancestors here without previously consulting their wishes, they should not be held wholly responsible for conditions to-day. They are gov- erning their portion of the island according to the light afforded them, through instinct and example, and if Haiti does not suit the stranger (they declare) he may stay away! Area and Population. Haiti proper, a name originally applied to the entire island of Haiti-Santo Domingo, now comprises about one-third the 28,250 square miles within its borders; but its population is more than double that of the other two-thirds, or about 1,500,000. As more than 90 per cent. of this population is black, and most of the remainder mulatto, the white race is scantily represented. The for- eigner cannot own real estate, nor can he transact business unhampered by restrictions which are sometimes burden- some, hence Haiti is not his chosen place of abode, and the tourist will feel exceedingly lonesome should he undertake an exploration of the interior country. If Haiti were less beautiful, and if its history had been less intimately associated with the earliest periods of Ameri- can settlement and discovery, scant reason would exist for making mention of it in a work of this kind. For unless one be a lover of nature's works, as here displayed in their most wondrous forms, and a student of history and mankind as well, he might lack a motive for a visit to Haiti. Let it be understood, then, that he does it solely upon his own 256 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES responsibility, and not through any representation of the writer, who may be led by its great natural charms to descant unduly upon its attractions. These are many, for, while Santo Domingo possesses the highest mountains and the greatest area of cultivated plains, Haiti has the most beautiful scenery, taken all in all; though little of it can be enjoyed except at a distance. The poet's lines: “ 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, And robes the mountains in its azure hue,"' are peculiarly applicable here. Cape Haitien in the North. While the chief commercial city and capital is to be found at Port au Prince, on the great bay of that name in the south, the most attractive settlement, whether historically or scenically considered, is that of Cape Haitien, or the “Cape," as it is locally called. The beautiful bay on which it is built was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1492. In fact, here it was that he met with the first disaster of that first voyage to America, for his flagship was wrecked on a reef at the entrance of Guarico, or Cape Haitien Bay, on Christmas Eve, and he sorrowfully celebrated his first American Christmas ashore as the guest of a native cacique. The place where he was entertained by Cacique Guacanagari, the hospitable Indian chief, is now known as Petit Anse, and is about 2 miles from Cape Haitien. It is merely a settlement of fisher folk, consisting of rude huts; but there is a small chapel here which contains (or at one time contained) a black Virgin, rudely carved from wood, and a quaint image of Saint John and Agnus Dei. This was the site of ancient Guarico, and may be reached either by boat or road. Here was collected the wreckage from the flagship the Santa Maria, and near this spot was erected the first fort of European origin in the West Indies, perhaps the first in America. It was called La Navidad, or the Nativity, by Columbus, in honour of the day in which he came ashore, and furnished with a garrison of forty men. Departing from the place the first week in January, 1493, Columbus coasted the north shores of the islands as far as Samana, then sailed for Spain, returning the next year to HAITI 257 find the fort burned to the ground and the garrison mas- sacred. At the time Columbus landed here he brought ashore, among the other wreckage of his ship, a small anchor, which was discovered near the site of Guarico in the last century and taken to the Columbian Exposition at Chicago as a relic of the event. As the fortress was of wood, and probably entirely destroyed by the Indians, no remains of it have been discovered; but it is thought to have been built on the hill of San Michel, an isolated elevation about 2 miles from Guarico, or Petit Anse, as it is a strategic situation, commanding the beach and the bay, where the Indians had their settlement. A City of Massacres. In course of time a settlement was made on this bay of Cape Haitien, which, under the French, attained to such elegance and prosperity that it was called the "Little Paris of America." The French had acquired title to this portion of the island by treaty, 1697, and, as planters, imported so many negro slaves that by the end of the eighteenth century the blacks were vastly in the majority. So cruel were the planters to their slaves, and so desperate the latter became, that an insurrection broke out in 1791, which was the beginning of the end, so far as European control in Haiti went. The insurgents were led by the subsequently famous Toussaint l'Ouverture, whose career has often been celebrated in song and in story. Under his leadership the slaves became freemen, and finally, by the co-operation of other native negroes and brown men who had forged to the front, the French were driven to their last stand at the Cape. The planters and their families were massacred with every species of atrocity; white infants and small children were impaled and borne aloft on pikes at the heads of companies of shouting black demons. Toussaint accomplished the expulsion of the white planters, as there were then more than half a million blacks in the island and less than 70,000 whites; but peace was not long to continue. The first Napoleon sent hither 60,000 troops, in a fleet of the line, under command of his brother-in-law, Leclerc. The natives could not oppose this armed force of Napoleon's veterans, and retired to the mountains. Toussaint was captured by strategy and sent to France, where he di. 258 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES in prison. The black mountaineers descended to the coast and committed terrible ravages, being assisted by yellow fever. In a short time Leclerc lost thousands of his soldiers, and himself fell a victim to the plague. His wife, Pauline, returned to France, but the war still went on, the French commanded by General Rochambeau. This unworthy son of a famous sire seemed to go mad with lust for revenge, for his captives were drowned, shot, and hung by hundreds. Dessalines and Christophe, the black generals, retaliated, and the fair land of Haiti was drenched with blood, especially around Cape Haitien, which was the centre of operations. Finally Napoleon could no longer aid his veterans in Haiti, who were reduced to the verge of starvation when they surrendered to a British force, which providentially arrived in time to save them from the enraged blacks, who would have massacred every man. Thus, after years of occupation, the French lost control of Haiti, and it reverted to the descendants of the slaves their predecessors had imported from Africa. In the last two years of their occupation they had lost, by war and disease, more than 60,000 citizens and soldiers. The native blacks had also lost heavily, but they still swarmed in the mountains and on the plains. After the French evacuation, on January 1, 1804, the blacks and men of colour took a solemn oath to renounce France forever. General Jean Jacques Dessalines was named general-in-chief, and he then proceeded to massacre the few French remaining in Cape Haitien. Then ensued a scene of horror that was a fitting consummation to the horrors that had preceded. The monster Dessalines led his military from house to house, murdering every white occupant found therein. The cap- tured whites, men, women, and children, were taken to the parade ground and executed with every barbarous accom- paniment that African savagery could suggest. The slaughter was awful, and the rivulet which passes through the town was red with blood. In the time of French dominance the Cape was a centre of wealth and luxury, its dwellings were spacious, its cathedral imposing, its squares and plazas adorned with rowers and with fountains fed by cool water conducted in HAITI 259 artificial channels from the hills. But with the negro occu- pation all was changed. Even what the savage blacks spared of a civilisation they could not appreciate was soon reduced to nothingness, for earthquakes and fires combined to destroy the city, and they have never since rebuilt it. To-day we find the Cape a settlement in the midst of ruined structures, its fountains choked with rubbish, its parks overgrown with worthless trees and shrubs. There is no hotel or place of entertainment within its con- fines worthy the name, but there is a Commercial Club, where drinks and meals are furnished to members. The roads leading into the hills and mountains are so poor that ex- cursions thither (though rewarding in the beauty of scenery, abundance of fruits and flowers by the way and the de- liciousness of the air) are rarely undertaken. The Black King's Castle. When General Leclerc, in command of the French, tried to surprise the Cape, the negro commander of the native force then in occupation set it on fire and retreated to the hills. This black general was Christophe, who became the second ruler over Haiti after the expulsion of the French. He proclaimed himself king in 1811, and his black consort a queen, also creating a Haitian “nobility,” consisting of his own children as "princes of the blood," 3 "princes of the kingdom," 8 "dukes," 20 "counts," 37 "barons,” and 11 "chevaliers”—all black, and all descend- ants of negro slaves. Some descendants of this defunct "nobility” still exist in Haiti. "King Henry,” as the black sovereign styled himself, pos- sessed nine royal palaces and eight royal chateaux, but the most beautiful of all was that of Sans Souci, which is at the base of high hills about two hours' ride from the Cape. Together with the fort and castle which Christophe caused to be built on the summits of those hills, two hours distant from the palace, Sans Souci constitutes the most wonderful architectural creation to be found in any of the West Indies south of Cuba. No one who ever finds himself in the island, especially if at Cape Haitien, should fail to pay a visit to Sans Souci and the far-famed Ferrière, which is crowned by a fortress—actually the most wonderful structure, when its site and size are considered, in the West Indies. As you 260 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES approach the Cape from the sea you may see, at a distance of about 20 miles inland, a lofty, pyramidal mountain, its summit level and its sides slanting into the forest, which surrounds it on every side. This is La Ferrière, mountain and fortress, the latter built by King Henry, or Christophe, the black King of Haiti, as a last retreat in case the French should return. Palace of Sans Souci. The favourite palace of King Henry, Sans Souci, lies at the head of a lovely valley, Millot, and to reach it one must obtain a horse or horses at the Cape, together with a guide; though the road is open and fairly good. Letters from the military governor or coni- mandante also must be taken, in order to gain entrance to palace and castle, though the former is in ruins and the latter abandoned. Even in its ruins—and it is now nothing more than the skeleton of its former self-Sans Souci is grand and impressive. As to its situation: no lovelier could have been chosen, no more beautiful could have been found elsewhere on earth. It stands at the base of very high hills covered with tropical trees, among which run sparkling streams of purest water. These irrigate numerous gardens planted with coffee trees and cocoa-palms, where, hidden in abundant foliage, are the huts of the country folk, who lead a life of aboriginal independence. The climate is perfect, the productions of the region in- clude everything that can be grown in the habitable zones. Earthquakes have completed the destruction caused by con- tending blacks over the possession of the palace, and the ruins are roofless but massive, still showing what must have been the luxury that King Henry lived in when at the height of his prosperity. The remains of terraced gardens are shown yet, and in an open court before the palace stands the great star-apple tree beneath which the king held court and audience with his officers. The room is shown (one of numerous roofless apartments in the palace) where King Henry committed suicide by shooting himself in the head with a silver bullet. His remains were taken for sepulture to the castle he had erected on the summit of La Ferrière, to reach which you must climb for yet two hours through 2 forest that covers the hills. The trail is rough, frequently HAITI 261 leading along the brinks of precipices, but often through wild coffee groves and banana gardens, with most glori- ous views of land and sea glimpsing at intervals all the way. The fortress confronts one like a gigantic rock set upon a mountain top in the bosom of the wilderness. It is awfully grand, it is terribly solitary, presenting as it does evidence of vast labour by human hands, directed by human intelli- gence; yet so lonely now that no other structure rises nearer than the palace, miles away. This great work would have taxed the skill and resources of any monarch, even with the appliances of an advanced civilisation at command; yet it was carried out by a semi-savage king of the blacks. All the material for its construction was drawn from the forests around it, but its architect and master builders were from abroad. Crowning the levelled summit of a conical hill, steep and hard to climb, the massive walls of this fortress tower aloft 100 feet. They are surrounded by a deep moat, which is spanned by a single log as a drawbridge. Inside are great galleries, one above another, where are still mounted hundreds of cannon, most of which had been taken from the French, and all of which the king intended to use against them should they ever return. This was to be his last refuge, his final stand against the forces which he would not be able, he knew, to combat at the coast if they should return in strength. Here he accumu- lated vast stores of grain, ammunition, Aints, bullets, gun- powder, and (according to tradition) treasure to the amount of more than $30,000,000. The tomb of the king is shown in the centre of the castle, and also his treasure vault; but both were rifled of their contents long ago. There are said to be 300 cannon in the vast galleries, all pointing at an imaginary foe that never came, that never will come, to invade this solitude. Every cannon was hauled up the mountains by gangs of men, and some of these pieces prob- ably weigh four or five tons each. So many of the labourers died from exhaustion and from the king's cruelties that the walls of La Ferrière may truly be said to be built upon the bones of a thousand victims and cemented with their blood. 262 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES There is no public house at Millot, nor is it probable that any white people can be living there at present, but a night's lodging might be obtained of the schoolmaster, perhaps, or of some local official. The region abounds with fruits and tropical vegetables, yet it would be difficult to obtain a meal at Millot, and all provisions should be taken from the Cape, where, though hotels are non-existent, stores are numerous and well stocked. For instructions as to where to go and how to proceed one should apply to his consul, the governmental representative; but this advice is not given with a guarantee that it will be courteously rendered. Rains, earthquakes, incendiary fires, etc., may at any time work changes in the aspect of city and country, and “revolutions” may change the body politic at one fell swoop, so it is difficult to advise as to the sights which may be safely sought. Hence the advice is given : Seek the representative of your home government, and if he be all that his position demands he should be—a gentle- man, yet a servant of the people he represents—you cannot go astray. The interior of the cathedral at the Cape is interesting, provided no earthquake or revolutionary uprising has wrought injury to the structure. An old French fort guards the entrance to the bay, and the ruins are shown, between the city and Petit Anse, of what is called an old buccaneer stronghold. City and bay are associated with memories of Columbus, with the first fort he erected on American soil; with the rise and fall of Toussaint l'Ouverture; with the . invasion of Bonaparte's soldiers under Leclerc, and with the first proclamation of liberty to Haiti. But the fine structures erected by the French in the eighteenth century are now shapeless heaps of brick and stone, the aqueducts they built are unused, the gardens they laid out gone to decay. There is, as already said, no good hotel in the place; not a public, hardly a private, convenience of any sanitary sort what- ever, while the gutters reek with filth and the air is tainted with pestilential emanations.* Ports of the North Coast. As in the Santo Domingo, or *Our West Indian Neighbors, which see for extended description of Haiti and Santo Domingo, The Market Place, Cape Haitien easter which civilis with solitud are le lieve Indiar the H ability ornam To th 80 atto wonde Porais and b. sprink The Parade, Sans Souci, Haiti for wł handse ports, mate. The 10 from Water: as the about fine t proba in th Her St. I estab the s HAITI 263 eastern portion of the island, natural harbours abound, which are hardly occupied, which, if they belonged to a civilised people, would teem with commerce and be alive with ships and sailors; but some exist to-day almost in the solitude in which they were discovered by Columbus. They are less populous, in fact, than at that time, if we may be- lieve his Journals, for the north coast then swarmed with Indians, who tilled the soil successfully, and who had what the Haitians of to-day do not possess, or seem to have the ability to discover-nuggets of gold, which they used as ornaments. To the westward of the Cape lies a most beautiful harbour, so attractive from its location and so abounding in tropical wonders of vegetation that Columbus called it Val de Paraiso, or the Vale of Paradise. It is now known as Acul, and being exclusively in possession of the blacks, with a sprinkling of coloured people only, has no accommodations for white visitors of any sort whatever. The same may be said of Port de Paix, which is the outlet of a large and handsome valley, and a flourishing place. Behind all these ports, in fact, and notably that of Cape Haitien, lie great plains or valleys, well watered and productive, which only await energy and capital intelligently applied to become the earth's favoured garden-spots. A road winds around the coast and another crosses the peninsula from the Cape to Gonaives, where such places as Plaisance show what the island is capable of in paradisiacal scenery and cli- niate. The Buccaneers' Stronghold. Opposite Port de Paix, from which it is separated only by a narrow channel, with waters generally smooth, lies the island of Tortuga, famous as the erstwhile rendezvous of buccaneers and pirates. It is about 20 miles in length and 3 miles in average width, has a fine though small harbour protected from the open sea, and probably contains more buried treasure than any other spot in the West Indies. Here the buccaneers settled, about 1630, when driven from St. Kitts and other islands to the south, and here they established a stronghold which the King of Spain, with all the ships and men at his command, could not break up until 264 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES after many years of effort. Here, in fact, those remarkable men, the “brethren of the sea,” called also buccaneers and filibusteros, established themselves for thirty years, from this island making forays upon all commerce that was carried on in ships through the Windward Channel, and also from this point sending out expeditions for the reduction of Span- ish cities at Darien, Porto Bello, and Panama. After the Spaniards, they were the original settlers of Haiti, for when finally dispersed many of them went over to the main island, where they became planters and cattle-raisers. Few strangers visit Tortuga; but permission having been obtained at Port de Paix, as well as a sailing craft well manned, the trip can be easily accomplished; though the natives would view such an attempt as an intrusion, and might make trouble for the invaders. Mole San Nicolas. At the extreme northwestern tip of the Haitian peninsula a port is found which, though it was discovered by Columbus in 1492, yet exists almost unused, still in possession of people who are unable to utilise its wonderful advantages. This is Mole San Nicolas, a natural port with deep water, and so situated as to com- mand all the channels to the westward, as well as the sea approaches to Panama and the shipping passing northward from Jamaica, Port Limon, etc. The water is deep enough for floating the largest battleship yet built and the natural harbour spacious enough to accommodate a navy, yet solitude still surrounds it; though some time, when the necessity arises, it must become the prized possession of a nation large enough to need and strong enough to hold it! Such a gift of Providence to man cannot be allowed forever to remain unutilised, for it will be seized and held by right of “eminent domain.” On the West Coast. Gonaives and St. Marc, ports of the west coast, are important places commercially, but not often visited by travellers for pleasure. The former has about 18,000 population, engaged chiefly in agriculture, and exports large quantities of mahogany and dye woods. From the town of Gonaives the Haitian patriot, Toussaint l'Ouver- ture, was kidnapped previous to his exile to France. Behind the port of St. Marc lies the magnificent plain of HAITI 265 the Artibonite, a river of great volume coming down from the interior mountain chain of the island, with bordering lands of exceeding fertility. On the plains sugar-cane, tobacco, and cotton can be grown; in the hills the best quality of coffee, cacao, etc. Centrally situated as it is, between North Haiti and the South, St. Marc has been a fighting ground for frequent battles between the Haitians in their numerous civil wars. The climate is said to be healthful, the scenery is attractive, but there are no hotels or places of resort for the general traveller. Within the great gulf that indents the west coast of Haiti is the largest island that lies off its shores, that of Gonave, which is 35 miles in length by 8 in breadth, is covered with fine forests, and contains a lake in its centre, also springs of pure water. It is scantily inhabited, but is resorted to by natives of the coast for fishing and the rare woods which abound in the forest. It is sometimes called Gonaive, the name having been de- rived from the native Indian word Guanabo, it is thought, when the subjects of Queen Anacaona-such as survived the massacre committed by Ovando in the first decade of the sixteenth century—took refuge here from Spanish oppres- sion. Port au Prince. The capital and largest city of Haiti, Port au Prince, sometimes called Port Républicain, lies at the bottom of a deep gulf, on a slope facing west, and contains between 60,000 and 70,000 inhabitants. Owing to its con- tiguity to a vast and fertile region that needs only intelligent cultivation to become a treasure-house of wealth, its natural advantages are great; but in the matter of ministering to the needs or demands of travellers it is lamentably lacking. It has been said, and with feeling, by some who have been com- pelled to remain in the city any length of time, that no one would go there who was not obliged to! Said an officer of the French navy who was there at intervals during forty years: “In my acquaintance, the city has not changed in all that time, except to become more wretched and dirtier.” It may still be said, as was reinarked by a traveller many years ago of this city: “The gutters are open, pools of stag- 266 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES nant and fetid water obstruct the streets everywhere, and re- ceive constantly accessions from the inhabitants using them as cesspools and sewers. There are few good buildings in town and none in the country, the torch of the incendiary having been applied at short intervals, and no encouragement is offered to rebuild, either through protection of the govern- ment or local enterprise. It is also as true of Port au Prince as of Cape Haitien, that buildings destroyed by earthquake or fire are rarely replaced, and the nearest approach to re- building is seen in a slab shanty leaning against the ruins of a larger structure.” Port au Prince is a half-ruined city, with a few buildings which once were fine, as the government palace on the Champ de Mars; the barn-like cathedral, where, in order to gratify the sentiment of the people, saints and virgins are painted black or brown, the prevailing hue of the population. The finest building in the city was formerly the national palace, a rambling, one-story structure of brick and wood. It is the official residence of the President of the Republic, who "receives" on certain days, when visitors are allowed to approach his “Excellency,” who is guarded by soldiers and sometimes surrounded by members of his staff. This palace occupies the seaward front of a neglected field am- bitiously called the Champ de Mars, upon which are occasionally displayed the ragged remnants of the Haitian army. The city is generally in a state of siege, or under martial law, and barefooted soldiers, ragged and dirty, may be seen standing guard on every corner, while Gatling guns adorn the squares and even the corridors of the palace. It is very likely that the visitor will have his attention drawn to these men of Mars, for, as their pay is scanty and rarely forthcoming at that, they are forced to appeal to charity when off duty and make the rounds of the city, hat in hand, for chance contributions. Market Places and Hotels. The market-places are large enough, and were originally well situated, but, like all other municipal constructions, they are allowed to become deposits of filth until the rains of the wet season wash them clean. They are worth visiting, even if for no other purpose than to Coorly the Haitianised Africans from the country, who come HAITI 267 in with fruits and vegetables, sometimes with meats. The meats are poor, the fruits delicious. There is rarely any beef to be had in Haiti of a quality good enough for con- sumption by the visitor, and the so-called “mutton” is usually derived from goats. The hotels of Port au Prince partake of that intermittent character begotten by frequent revolutions and change of government, and, in fact, there is no very good hotel in the city. There is one near the port and one on the verge of the city, at the Champ de Mars, which is old and ram- shackle, but its meals are—or were excellent and well served. Still, the visitor is advised not to linger in this city, unless he meet with some of the few white people here, who might invite one to their country seats at La Coupe, about 5 miles up the hills. La Coupe is the summer, or warm-weather, residence of the wealthier class of Port au Prince, and presents some- what the appearance of a well-to-do suburb of an island better favoured in its inhabitants than Haiti. It lies at an altitude of 1,200 feet above the sea, and the views over the great bay, especially at sunset and by moonlight, are superb. The temperature here is several degrees below that of the city, which “hangs around the nineties,” for a cool sea or mountain breeze is playing all the time. There are some fine residences here, as the various foreign consuls favour the spot. Any change from the purgatory of living in that low-lying, fever-breeding capital would be agreeable; but La Coupe is really beautiful as to its location. A most attractive feature of the place is a natural bath beneath lofty trees, where the air is always fresh and cool, even at midday. Home of the Voodoo. Haiti is the American home of the African serpent worship, vaudoux, or voodooism. Here, despite frantic declarations to the contrary, it is said still to flourish, especially in the mountains and deep forests. In the museum of the Petit Seminaire, at Port au Prince, one may see objects which were used not only in the practice of the black art of voodooism, but in cannibal ceremonies which are the outgrowth of the former. Derived from Africa, this worship of the "great green serpent” has spread 268 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES throughout the western part of the island until it is said to be general. The taste for human blood may have been ac- quired at the time of the massacres of the French, when infants were sacrificed to the African deity. Haitian Serpent Worship. The high priest of the ser- pent deity is known as the papa loi and the high priestess the maman loi, or the “father” and the “mother king,” and their commands are absolute. They do not always insist upon a human offering, known as the “goat without horns,” but are generally satisfied with a cock or a goat. The ceremony is the same, however. The victim is taken to an isolated hut in the forest, strung up to the rafters by its feet and its throat cut, the blood being drunk by the sectaries and the flesh afterward cooked and eaten. Then ensue dancing and song, followed by the grossest forms of debauchery. It is not reassuring to residents of the city to know that, ac- cording to open declarations in the press of Port au Prince not many years ago, certain men and women had carried on a business of killing human beings and selling their flesh in the public markets! The death penalty was inflicted upon these savages; but though the authorities have made many attempts to extirpate the evil, voodooism still flourishes and has hundreds, probably thousands, of votaries. If one were desirous of witnessing a voodoo ceremony he could be gratified, report says, without going far from Port au Prince; but it might be at the risk of his life, for the enraged and excited worshippers would certainly destroy a white onlooker if they were to penetrate his disguise. Al- leged adventures of this sort have been published, and a thorough exposition of the serpent worship with its attendant cannibalism has been made in Sir Spencer St. John's sensa- tional book, The Black Republic. The author was for twelve years British Minister Resident and Consul-General at Port au Prince, and obtained his information there.* Highways and Railroads. One might say that there are *The latest and best work on Haiti in recent years, however-Haiti, her History and her Detractors, by J. N. Leger (Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the Haitian Republic in the United States)---vigorously combats these statements. This book should be read by all who are desirous of better acquaintance with Haiti and her people, for it is a masterly presentment by a native of the Republic, 30 is perfectly equipped for the task. HAITI 269 no roads in Haiti and not be far from the truth. There were roads, magnificent highways, constructed by the French, the remains of which the Haitians have utilised, as they have the deteriorating coffee plantations which their former masters left behind them when expelled from the island or massacred; but the present owners seem content with trails such as sufficed their barbarous ancestors in Africa. As for bridges, it is a common saying: “Never go over a bridge in Haiti if you can pass around it!” There are many rivers in the island which might carry fertility to millions of acres if their waters were used in irrigation, but which roll on to the sea unutilised. All these are forded, but rarely are they bridged. A trail exists from Port au Prince to the south coast of Santo Domingo, passing the lakes Fondo and Enriquillo, through a fascinating country, but the journey would de- mand courage and determination on the part of the traveller. Another connects the capital with Miragoane and Jérémie on the west, and with St. Marc, Gonaives, and Cape Haitien on the north. Owing to the fact that foreigners, especially white foreigners, have no rights in realty in Haiti, and to another notorious fact-that, it is difficult to obtain redress for properties destroyed there are few great and successful undertakings in the island in which capital is employed. Adjoining Port au Prince is a large and fertile plain, the Cul de Sac, where sugar and cotton, as well as other paying products, might be grown on an immense scale, and there are other extensive plains of like character, while the forests teem with valuable woods; but all these natural resources remain unexploited as yet, except in a desultory way, owing to the obstructive policy of the Haitians. "If Haiti ever becomes civilised,” says Sir Spencer St. John, “and if ever roads are made, there are near Port au Prince summer health resorts which are perfectly European in their climate.” Referring to his landing at Port au Prince, James Anthony Froude, in his English in the West Indies, exclaims: "I had seen Jacmel, and therefore thought myself prepared for the worst which I should find. Jacmel was an outlying symptom; Port au Prince was the central ulcer. Long be- 270 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES fore we came to shore there came off whiffs, not of drains, as at Havana, but of active dirt fermenting in the sunlight. ... We were in a Paris of the gutter, with boulevards and places, fiucres, and crimson parasols. The boulevards were littered with the refuse of the houses and were foul as pig- sties, and the ladies under the parasols were picking their way along them in Parisian boots and silk dresses. I saw a fiacre broken down in a black pool, out of which a blacker ladyship was scrambling. Fever breeds so prodigally in that pestilential squalor that 40,000 people were estimated to have died of it in a single year.” Jacmel and Other Ports. Southeast of Port au Prince, on the southern coast of the Tiburon peninsula, lies the city of Jacmel, which has a beautiful bay, or open roadstead, par- tially sheltered by coral reefs. Behind it, as at the capital, rise wooded hills and mountains, and the scenery is fine; but the city itself a second Port au Prince in its ruins, its stenches and its population. There are no special attrac- tions here for the traveller, as one may pursue his investiga- tions of people and resources at better advantage in the capi- tal, or at the Cape. The streets are filthy, hotels non- existent, boarding-houses intolerable. Jacmel is visited by steamers of the Hamburg-American Line, the Atlas service, and by those of the Royal Dutch West Indian Mail, the former weekly, and the latter fort- nightly. The British Royal Mail used to touch at Jacmel, sailing between Jamaica-Barbados, but has discontinued this service. The Hamburg-American intercolonial steamer Präsident makes a monthly trip from St. Thomas and return, touch- ing at Porto Rican, Dominican and Haitian ports. One of the best ports in Haiti is that of Miragoane, about 70 miles west of the capital, on the south shore of Port au Prince Gulf. The country behind it is mountainous and well adapted for coffee, of which large quantities are shipped, as well as of dye and cabinet woods. Near it is a large lake, 17 miles in circuit, with a depth of 180 feet. Not far from the eastern end of the lake is the port of Petit Goave, which has considerable trade, and is a port of call for the Ham- burg-American steamers. HAITI 271 Aux Cayes, a port with fine country back of it, lies on the southern coast of the peninsula, within a great curve of the shore. It exports sugar, coffee and dye woods, and is cele- brated for the excellent quality of rum that is produced here in quantities. The westernmost town of Haiti is Jérémie, far out on the northern tip of the Tiburon peninsula, with a healthful climate and the outlet of a fertile but isolated region, which produces coffee and sugar-cane for export. The Hamburg- American intercolonial steamer touches here on the 16th of each month, when making the trip from Port au Prince to St. Thomas. Steamer Communication. HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE ATLAS SERVICE Weekly Sailings Leave.... New York. Wednesday Call......Inagua ..Monday Leave.... Cape Haiti. Wednesday Leave.... Port de Paix. Thursday Arrive ... Port au Prince..: ...Friday Leave.... Port au Prince.... .Wednesday Leave. ... Petit Gonaives..... Fares: ... Thursday Leave. ... Petit Goave. ..... ......Friday Leave.... Miragoane ........ $60—$70 ......Friday Leave.... St. Marc....... Return: ....Saturday Leave.... Jérémie .... ....Saturday Leave. ... Aux Cayes......... $100-$110 .... Monday Leave. ... Jacmel ...... .Monday Leave.... Santa Marta... ...Friday Call...... Port au Prince Sunday Call...... Jérémie ........ Sunday Call...... Inagua ... Sunday Arrive ... New York. ...... ..Friday INTERCOLONIAL CRUISE BETWEEN JAMAICA, Haiti, SANTO DOMINGO, Porto Rico AND ST. THOMAS A regular monthly service is maintained between the islands of St. Thomas, Porto Rico, Santo Domingo, Haiti, and Jamaica by the Hamburg-American Line's twin-screw steam- ship Präsident, which sails from St. Thomas on the 3d of each month on the following itinerary: ................. 272 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Day of Month ..................... From St. Thomas, D. W. I.... San Juan, Porto Rico........ San Pedro de Macoris, Santo Domingo......... Domingo City, Santo Domingo. Azua, Santo Domingo.... Jacmel, Haiti..... Aux Cayes, Haiti....... Kingston, Jamaica.... Port au Prince, Haiti.. Jérémie, Haiti...... Aux Cayes, Haiti....... Jacmel, Haiti........ Azua, Santo Domingo......... Domingo City, Santo Domingo...... San Pedro de Macoris, Santo Domingo San Juan, Porto Rico.... St. Thomas, D. W. I..... ............... Royal Dutch West INDIAN Mail, fortnightly sailings. PORTO RICO General Description. The island of Porto Rico is al- most as "square as a brick," a parallelogram in coastal out- line about 100 miles in length by 36 in breadth. It lies be- tween the parallels of 17° 54' and 18° 30' north latitude and 65° 13'-67° 15' west longitude, having contiguous to it the smaller islands of Culebra and Vieques on the east, Mona and Monica on the west. The insular mass is striking in outline, with rounded hills, rising to a central mountain 3,600 feet in altitude, known as El Yunque, or the Anvil. The lower elevations all along the coast and the verdurous valleys are carefully cultivated, only the very high hills and the mountains being clothed in forest. Numerous harbours in- dent the coast all around, while more than forty rivers, besides countless rivulets, Aow from the mountains to the sea. Few of the rivers are navigable far inland, but are short lived, abounding in falls and rapids, which make them very attractive. Climate and Vegetation. The climate is tropical, and possesses no peculiar characteristics, except that, owing to the nearness of the mountains to the coast, it may be changed appreciably by a short climb. Owing to the constantly blow- ing trade-winds and the number of rapid streams, the atmos- phere is rendered salubrious. The monthly mean temperature at San Juan during twenty years is given as 79° F., the highest at noon being 92° and at evening 90°. The nights are almost invariably cool and comfortable, owing to the breezes, and except for local causes the climate is healthful in the extreme. As the island is within the hurricane area, it is occasionally visited by terrific cyclones; but these occur only in the heated months of summer and early autumn, the win- ters being free from them. Nothing can be said of the vegetation that has not already been remarked of these islands in general. Porto Rico has been likened to "Eden" and to "Paradise," on account of its vegetal beauty, and it has a certain loveliness of its own, S RE S Custom House Wharf, San Juan, Porto Rico Luquillo Mountains, Porto Rico PORTO RICO 275 trusted with the important mission of establishing post-offices throughout the island. During the period of armistice, and with the retirement of the Spanish soldiery, the postal service was carried along until, when American occupation was assured, the insular system was already well established. There are now eighty post-offices in operation, "conducted on lines identical with the service in the United States, and con- trolled exclusively by the Post-office Department in Wash- ington.” Fifty of these are money-order offices and seventy- five of the postmasters are native Porto Ricans. Schools and Churches. The established church of the island is, of course, the Roman Catholic, which has cathe- drals in San Juan and Ponce, large church buildings in all towns and cities, and supports many charities. Until the American occupation the only Protestant church was an Episcopal chapel in Ponce, then established about twenty years; but since then various denominations have invaded the field, and nearly every city and town of importance has its mission, the Baptists alone having 25 stations and churches, the Methodists as many, the Presbyterians 66, with a medical missionary, a training school for ministers, and at San Juan the "best equipped hospital on the island, where hundreds of patients are treated each month.” Besides this hospital there are municipal institutions of this ! character in most towns, several private ones in San Juan and Ponce and a naval, military and marine hospital at San Juan managed by the United States Government. When the last census was taken there were nearly 150,000 Porto Ricans who could neither read nor write. Wonder- ful progress has been made in educational matters, however, and soon it may be the proud boast of the natives that only the aged, who passed through their formative period under Spanish influences, are illiterate. The children learn readily and are rapidly acquiring the English language, being assisted by enthusiastic teachers. As the population of Porto Rico has doubled every forty years since the beginning of the nineteenth century, it behooves the Americans not only to teach the children their language, but to inculcate a liking for their "institutions.” The most praiseworthy of these institutions, the common school, has been carried to the 276 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ................................ remotest hamlet in the island, so that even the jibaro, or "poor white," can secure an elementary education. There are now in the island more than 1,000 common schools, 3 high schools, 4 industrials, 37 night schools, II agricul- turals, and 6 kindergartens, with 1,000 teachers and a total attendance of above 44,000. Public Holidays. The "church holidays,” or saints' days, as in all Spanish-speaking countries, number almost as many as there are days in the year; but the United States Govern- ment has decreed the following as legal holidays in Porto Rico: New Year's Day............ .... January Ist Washington's Birthday... . February 22d Emancipation Day. ..March 22d Good Friday............ ...........As fixed Memorial Day.. . May 30th Independence Day... ..July 4th Landing Day........ ........... July 25th Labour Day First Monday in September Election Day. ... November, as fixed Thanksgiving Day...................... November, as fixed Christmas Day....... ................. December 25th Public Order, Health, etc. The order that prevails throughout the island, which is perfectly safe to visit any- where, at any time, is owing, in the first place, to the tract- able disposition of the natives, and, in the second, to the peerless police and military force organised by the Ameri- cans. The famed insular police force, numbering 700 men, is composed entirely, with exception of its chief and assist- ant chief, of natives, who have been drilled to a remarkable degree of efficiency. These men preserve order throughout the island, with its 3,600 square miles of territory and million inhabitants, and crimes of violence are said to be very rare. Another body of men that has been brought to the highest pitch of organisation is the Porto Rico pro- visional regiment, all except the officers being natives of the island. It has been often commended for its drills, the soldierly bearing of its members, and their progress in physi- cal and mental development. PORTO RICO 277 It has been the aim of the American administration to in- struct the natives in every department of local government, in order to make them independent and self-reliant. The Administration, in fact, has carried paternalism to the ex- tent of watching over the people's health with extreme solici- tude, improving sanitary conditions, building and maintaining hospitals, establishing a chemical laboratory for testing the purity of foods, and even treating local diseases. It was learned, for instance, that many of the jibaros were suffering from uncinariasis, or the “hook-worm,” intestinal parasite, and measures were at once taken to combat the evil. The hook-worm was said to be responsible for the general de- bility and disinclination to labour invariably manifested by the jibaros, and they were taken in hand, with the result that, deprived of their hook-worms, they recovered strength and health. More than 5,000 were treated in six months from the start and returned to their families “completely cured,” according to the physicians' reports. Public Lands. Forest Reserves. One of the most use- ful of the new institutions is the Agricultural Station estab- lished near Mayaguez, which is under the supervision of the United States Department of Agriculture at Washington. The results of its experiments, printed in bulletins and issued in Spanish and English, are becoming manifest by improved conditions, especially in coffee culture and the raising of fruits and vegetables. There is very little mineral wealth in the island, though the mountain streams once showed traces of gold, and some copper has been mined. The chief resource of the island is agriculture; but there is not much land available for new settlers, and less than 100,000 acres of public lands. A tract about 65,000 acres in extent, in the rugged moun- tain region of the eastern part of the island, has been set aside as a Forest Reserve, which, as it is a veritable tropical wilderness, will form one of the most interesting of goy- ernment reservations. It will be converted, probably, into a tropical park, and contains within its confines the highest mountain in the island, El Yunque, many streams, with sev- eral fine cascades, besides a virgin forest, which is practically unexplored. It is called, from the mountain range running 278 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES through it, the Luquillo Reserve, and can be reached from Rio Grande or Luquillo, on the northeast coast. Hotels, etc. There are hotels of a sort in all the towns and cities, but not all habitable. In San Juan the “Colonial," "Inglaterra," and "Las Palmas”; in Ponce the “Frances" and two others; a fine hotel at Coaino Hot Springs; a good one at Mayaguez, one at Arecibo, and native fondas, or crude hostelries of the old Arabic style, in nearly all the towns. Insular Highways. The Spaniards are not noted as road-builders; but in Porto Rico they constructed at least one highway of importance, that between Ponce on the south coast and San Juan on the north, 84 miles in length, over the central mountain range, which is a wonder of engineering skill. A line of motor vehicles has been established over this Camino Real, or "King's Highway," as the Spaniards called it, performing the service for which at least a hundred horses were formerly required. Fare one way, $8. The journey over this royal road should be taken by every visitor to the island, affording as it does the entire range of tropical vegetation and scenery within the compass of a single day's observation. There is an intermittent highway around the island, but not at all places and times available for wheeled vehicles, while most of the so-called roads across the island are mere bridle- trails. At the coming of the Americans, in 1898, there were about 150 miles of very good road in Porto Rico, which mileage has been trebled by them, so there are now more than 700 kilometers of macadam highways, 400 of which have been recently built, with mileage constantly increasing. The upkeep of these highways, in an island of tropical storms and torrential rains, is very high, averaging about $500 per mile, and necessitating constant supervision, especially in the mountains. Bridges are massive and numerous also, the number of fording-places decreasing yearly. The following table gives the distances, in miles, between the chief points on the island over ordinary roads : PORTO RICO ADJUNTAS. AGUADILLA. 105 AIBONITO. 32 33 ARECIBO. 40 BAYAMON. CAYEY. 23 COAMO. FAJARDO. 29 100 $ 16 16 39 78 30 78 Guayama. GUAYAMA. distance of about 100 kilometers; the second from Aguadilla section was from San Juan to Camuy, along the north coast, a two-thirds of it has been constructed. The first completed many years ago, but at the present writing not more than Railroads. A railroad was projected to encircle the island IOI 391 61 20 55 HUMACAO. 08 70 84 75 ΜΑΝΑΤΙ. MAYAGUEZ. 182 2010531 50 PONCE. Le 58 | 142 68 its 12 L + 37 SAN GERMAN. 104 35 81 | | 50 | 52 | 7 | 38 | 60 | 39 | 53 | 46 50 | 74 | 23 1702 7 03 78 6 54 7 02 03 40 | 125 | 51 102 88 * Via San Juan. + Via Ponce. | Via Mayaguez. SAN JUAN. | 29 VEGA BAJA. 101 94 , YAUCO, | Via Arecibo. 38 280 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES to Mayaguez, 44 kilometers, and another space was covered between Ponce and Yauco, with several gaps unfilled until quite recently, when it was completed as far as Ponce, a dis- tance of 278 kilometers. There are two trains a day between these points, one each way, and the fare between San Juan and Ponce is $10.50. First-class rates are 3 cents per kilo- meter, or about 5 cents per mile. Between San Juan and Ponce it is about a ten-hour run, and a night train is con- templated for the service. A narrow-gauge steam road runs from Cataño, on the bay opposite San Juan, to the town of Bayamon, and there is also a narrow-gauge road between the town of Añasco, on the west coast, and the health resort of Alto Sano. Electric trolleys ply between San Juan and Rio Piedras, with a branch to the beach; and between Ponce and its Playa, 3 miles. Newspapers and Libraries. There are 36 daily and weekly papers in the island, of which number two, the San Juan and the Ponce News, were published in English, both being dailies. Libraries were early established in Porto Rico, the first one, belonging to the Dominican Friars, having been de- stroyed by Dutch buccaneers in 1625. The American Free Library at San Juan contains some valuable books. The Porto Rican Atheneum Library and that of the Casino Español are rich in volumes on French and Spanish liter- ature. Scientific and technical books are to be found in the library of the San Juan Department of Public Works. There is a pedagogical library at San Juan, which is one of several established since American occupation; Ponce possesses a small collection, about 2,000 volumes, and Mayaguez one of 5,000 voluines. Banks and Clubs. The banking business of the island is on a prosperous footing, and transacted by eight incor- porated and one unincorporated institutions. The Banco de Puerto Rico is the oldest; the Banco Territorial y Agricola makes long-term loans and mortgages; the First National Bank of Porto Rico, organised 1903, and the American Colo- nial Bank, organised 1899, are flourishing institutions. The oldest social club in San Juan is the Casino Español, PORTO RICO 281 founded 1871, next in age being the Ateneo Puertoriqueño, 1876; the latter a literary society, both with spacious quar- ters, and amply providing for members, who receive guests hospitably. The newer “institutions” of this character are the Officers' Club of the Porto Rican Regiment, in the Ballaja Barracks; the San Juan Yacht Club, founded 1899, with spacious quarters in the Marina, and an increasing feet of boats; the Country Club of San Juan, with golf links and fine sandy beach at Santurce, and chiefly patronised by Americans fond of outdoor sports. As in Cuba, the better-class natives are devoted to club life, and every town of importance has its casino, where they meet. Cities, Towns and Villages. All the cities and large towns of Porto Rico lie along the coast, but there are many interesting villages occupying the interior, accessible only by roads and bridle-trails. Altogether there are more than sixty settlements in the island, and to prevent confusion they will be alphabetically arranged. The first in this order to be presented is a charming hill town on the northern slope of the island and at the headwaters of the Rio Arecibo. Adjuntas, with about 2,500 inhabitants, and 19,500 in the district, is situated at an altitude of 2,400 feet above sea level, about 15 miles from Ponce, with which it is connected by a magnificent highway. It contains a post-office, telegraph station, a Catholic and a Protestant church, and supports seven public schools; but there is no good hotel in town, though it is a popular mountain retreat for those seeking a change of climate from the coast. The second highest peak, Guilarte, altitude 3,000 feet, is in this district, afford- ing glorious views of surrounding country. Attractions here are coffee estates, cascades, of which there are many, moun- tain scenery, cool atmosphere, and pure water. Aguada, or the "Watering-Place,” is on the northwest coast, about 5 miles distant from the port of Aguadilla, with which it is connected by rail, and also by a coastal wagon road. The township contains about 10,000 people, the town it- self, situated on a hill but a few minutes' walk from the ocean, about 2,000. This spot shares with Aguadilla, from which it is separated by the Culebrina (or Culverin) River, 282 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the honour of having been the first watering-place of the ships of Columbus in Porto Rico. It was on his second voyage, 1493, that Columbus discovered the island, coming up from the Lesser Antilles. Coasting its southern shore, he touched at various points, but the only one of which an account has been preserved as a landing-place is on the beach near the present settlements above named. His feet was then on its way to the north coast of Santo Domingo, where a garrison had been left the year previous, and the great bay of Agua- dilla lying conveniently on his route, he put in there to supply his ships with water. A beautiful spring gushed from the hills and ran in a stream of considerable volume into the bay. It is probable that some of his Carib captives knew of this spring (as those Indians frequently made marauding expeditions to the island and carried off the natives); but · at any rate, an authentic record has been preserved of the landing here. It was, in fact, from the beauty and attractions of this bay that the present name Puerto Rico, the Rich, or Noble, Port, was bestowed by Columbus. This name has been corrupted by ignorant Americans into Porto, a bastard English word without the sanction of authority, but which has become to an extent legitimised by vulgar usage. A mon- ument has been erected at the mouth of the Culebrinas in honour of Columbus, and thus the two townships divide the prestige derived from his landing between them. Aguada contains a Catholic church, two interesting “hermitages," and the ruins (it is claimed) of a building once the residence of Lieutenant Sotomayor, who was an officer under Juan Ponce de Leon. It is in the Guayabo ward of the town. There is a public school here and four rural schools in the township. The chief industry is the raising of sugar-cane. Aguadilla. There is no more picturesque town in Porto Rico than this, lying between limestone hills and the shore, embowered in cocoa-palms, and still guarding as a sacred treasure that famed spring from which Columbus watered his fleet. It forms a fountain at the western end of the town, the waters of which fall in cascades into a stone basin, and thence flow through the streets to the shore. The memorable landing is commemorated by a monumental cross Star Coast of Porto Rico, near Aguadilla Scene in Porto Rico PORTO RICO 283 : of native marble, and the people of Aguadilla take pride in showing the visitor the scenes connected with the greatest event in Porto Rico's history. Aguadilla has a population of about 18,000, and is distant from San Juan about 87 miles by rail; from Mayaguez, south, 27 miles. It has a fine harbour and is a commercial place of some importance, with sugar, rum, oranges, and pine- apples as its chief products. Fine scenery, excellent climate, good water, railroad and telegraph station, telephone, etc. Aguas Buenas, a small place 9 miles from Cayey and 27 from San Juan, is the centre of a township containing some 8,000 people, celebrated for its coffee, pure spring water, and healthful climate. A good wagon road connects with Caguas and with the great military road across the island between San Juan and Ponce. Aibonito, or Aybonito—"How Beautiful”-is an interior town of 2,500 inhabitants, situated directly on the Camino Real, or King's Road, about midway between Ponce and San Juan. From its elevated situation, nearly 3,000 feet above the sea, it has long been noted as a healthful acclimati- sation station, with pure air, clear running streams, and beautiful scenery. Its strategic value is also great, and it was here that the American army of invasion was halted by news of the peace protocol, while training its guns upon the Spanish intrenchments, remains of which may still be seen. The town contains five public schools, a church, hos- pital, etc., but no good hotel. A half-way station between the cities on the coasts. Climate cool and delightful; prod- ucts chiefly tropical, as coffee, bananas, tobacco, etc. Añasco, near the west coast, 6 miles from Mayaguez, has 4,000 inhabitants, and 13,000 within its jurisdiction (section of which it is the most important settlement). The district is traversed by two railway lines, one a narrow-gauge to Alto Sano, an interior town. Its chief products are sugar and tobacco, with hundreds of acres under cultivation. The town contains six public schools, a church, post-office, and telegraph station, but no good hostelry. Añasco holds the unique record of having been the district in which a native cacique put to test the alleged "immor- tality" of the Spaniards, in the second decade of the sixteenth 284 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES century. The Indians becoming rebellious on account of severe labour in the mines, murdered all the white men they could catch outside the settlements. The Spaniards had told them that they were immortal, and for a while they believed the story; but Cacique Agueynaba (the chieftain who had hospitably received Ponce de Leon in 1508, and given him all the gold he possessed) finally conceived a theory of his own and proceeded to test it. In accordance with his orders, two of his followers took an unprotected white man, whom they were carrying from place to place on their shoulders, and while fording a stream threw him down and held his head under water several hours. Determined to make sure of his death, if it were possible, they dragged the body to the bank and sat by it during two days and nights, until completely convinced that he was mortal, like themselves. Their report to their chief started the rebellion, which eventually ended in the extinction of the Indians. The stream in which this occurrence took place was the Rio Guanroba, tradition relates, in the fertile valley of Añasco; and if the exact site cannot be located, at least a beautiful waterfall near the town is worth a visit for itself alone. Arecibo lies due west from San Juan, 35 miles in a direct line and 50 by rail, with 6,000 inhabitants, and about 36,000 in the district. Its harbour is open and exposed. The town, founded 1537, is well built, with a fine church and public buildings, a plaza, with streets running from it forming regular squares, a theatre, jail, barracks, etc. It lies directly north of Adjuntas, at the mouth of the Arecibo River, the valley of which is picturesque in the extreme. About 7 miles inland, southeast of the town, is Concejo, where a great rock may be seen more than 300 feet in height, which is cut off vertically, and in its face, about half way up, is the en- trance to a great cavern containing arches, grottos and stal- actites. The river itself has numerous tributaries with beauti- ful cascades, the waters of which are diverted to the city, and, for the purpose of irrigation, to the lands of the contiguous plantations. The boundaries of these plantations are marked by orange and lemon trees, which give a pleasing aspect to the landscape, and the homes of the planters are surrounded by tall palms, bananas, coffee trees, and sugar-cane. Among PORTO RICO 285 the industries of the district may be mentioned a tannery, an ice factory, a steam saw-mill, cigar factories, seven distilleries and eight cane mills. Arroyo, on the southeast coast, has a commodious har- bour with a good light, and is connected with Fajardo, east, and Guayama, west, by highways. It is called one of the prettiest towns in the island, and occupies a healthful situa- tion. Within its jurisdiction are about 10,000 acres of fertile cane land, from which are shipped large quantities of sugar, molasses, and rum. Although isolated, the better classes of Arroyo are well educated, many of them speaking Eng- lish. A wonderful natural attraction here is found in the caves of Aguas Buenas, three in number, called Oscuro, Clara, and Ermita, from the first of which runs the Caguitas River, a subterranean stream, for about 1,200 feet of its course. Barranquitas is an inland hamlet northwest of Aibonito, elevated and healthful, with about 8,000 inhabitants in its jurisdiction, engaged chiefly in agricultural pursuits. It has three public and seven rural schools and a church. Barros, 31 miles distant from Ponce, with Barranquitas lying between it and the military road at Aibonito, is in about the centre of the island. Situated as it is among the rugged spurs of the great central range, it is surrounded by beautiful scenery and is noted for the beauty of its cascades, called Saltos. The only means of communication at present are narrow trails, impassable in the rainy season. Most of its 14,000 inhabitants are engaged in growing coffee, which finds a congenial home on the hill slopes. Bayamon is a station on the American Railroad, and is also more directly connected with San Juan by a narrow- gauge steam road and ferry via Cataño. It has a good public school, a college managed by Sisters of Charity, a Catholic church and Episcopal mission. Its industries comprise six sugar mills, ice, tobacco, match, and brick factories. Within the district is the oldest foundation of a Spanish settlement in the island, the ruins of which are known as Pueblo Viejo. It was founded by Juan Ponce de Leon in 1509, and named by him Caparra. Here the Spaniards lived a few years, but as the settlement was exposed to Indian raids, and lat 286 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES invaded by an army ‘of ants, they abandoned it for the more advantageous location of San Juan, which is still the capital of Porto Rico. Cabo Rojo, or Red Cape, is a town of about 2,500 in- habitants on the southwest coast, west of San German and south of Mayaguez. It lies in a rugged valley drained by two small streams, and was founded in 1774. It has a church, theatre, Masonic temple, eight public schools, an asylum, hospital, a casino, and a hermitage. The country contiguous is devoted to pasturage, tropical fruits, and especially cocoa- palms, though the chief industry is derived from the deposits of fine salt on the seashore, which is exported in great quanti- ties. It is off the railway line, but connected with neigh- bouring towns by roads and trails. Caguas, a community of about 20,000, is situated on a plain containing nearly 100 acres, the property of the municipality. It is 22 miles from San Juan, at the junction of the great Military Road and another to the southwest coast, and reckons its wealth at about a million dollars. The town- ship contains eight graded and as many rural schools, with one public school of high class, an asylum for the poor sup- ported by the local government, and a church. As it is in the tobacco region of the island, the chief industry is the manufacture of cigars, for which there are three large fac- tories in the town. It has a post-office and telegraph station, but no good hotel. Caguitas, in this district, is locally noted for its hot springs, and there are marble and limestone quarries in its suburb of Cañaboncito. A line of automobiles was established between San Juan and Caguas in 1907, with daily trips; fare one way $3, round trip double. Camuy, on the northwest coast, about 9 miles west of Arecibo, occupies an area of two square acres, and of the 27,000 acres in its jurisdiction, some 23,000 are forest cov- ered. While healthful i.. situation, it is not architecturally attractive, its only pretentious structures being a church and a municipal building. Caparra is yet known as Pueblo Viejo, or the Old Town, but nothing of it now remains except a line of crumbling walls and an aqueduct. The ruins may be visited by crossing San Juan harbour on ferry and taking the road leading from 288 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES one of the interesting sights here being extensive tracts of tobacco "under cloth,” looking like circus tents of vast dimen- sions. There are nine public schools in the municipality, a church, city hospital, and a few public buildings of no special interest. Ciales is a hill town south of Manati, with which and the railroad it is connected by a good wagon road. Situated at an elevation of over 2,000 feet, it possesses a delightful climate, and is surrounded by mountains, such as Peak Picachos, 3,000 feet, which offer magnificent views. Most of the inhabitants (about 18,000) are devoted to the raising and preparation of coffee, which flourishes luxuriantly here, and is largely exported. Copper mines have been discovered in the neighbourhood. The locality contains several caves, the cave called Archillos being the most extensive, with beautiful halls hung with stalactites. It is worth a visit, and may be reached from San Juan by rail to Manati, thence highway to Ciales. The town, which suffered greatly from outrages committed by Spanish troops soon after the evacu- ation of Ponce, contains a small hospital, church, and sev- eral public schools. Coamo, 20 miles northeast of Ponce, on the great highway to San Juan, was founded in 1646, and continued Spanish until the second week in August, 1898, when it was sur- rendered to American troops. Within the jurisdiction are about 15,000 people, chiefly engaged in raising cattle, sugar- cane, tobacco and tropical fruits. The town itself is unin- teresting, containing few buildings of importance, save a hospital, church, and public schools; but south of it a few miles are found the famous Baños de Coamo, with hot and mineral springs of great efficacy in many diseases. Here is an excellent hotel, beautifully situated amid the hills, with every convenience for rest and comfort, and also for enjoy- ing the medicinal waters. Coamo Springs burst from the southern slope of the moun- tains, not far distant from the southern coast. They are ideally situated, and may be visited on the journey over the Military Road between Ponce and San Juan. It is beyond Coamo that the real ascent of the mountains begins or the descent decreases-depending upon which direction one PORTO RICO 289 is pursuing, whether going northeasterly to San Juan or southwesterly to Ponce. From San Juan the steepness of the ascent becomes noticeable at and beyond Caguas, whence, as far as Cayey, the road winds backward and forward in gigantic curves, like a great serpent coiling around the lesser elevations of the mountain backbone, with gradients as steep as the best engineering skill would permit, every turn reveal- ing a glorious panorama, changing continually, and ever beautiful. The hills have been mainly denuded of forest, and their rounded summits are cultivated, while the fertile valleys which they guard are filled with the lush vegetation of the tropics, as bananas, coffee, tobacco, cacao, above which tower cocoa and royal palms. An altitude of 3,300 feet is attained at or near the Sierra de Cayey, where the last half of the journey lies before and beneath one, going in either direction. Then comes the famous Aibonito Pass, where the road runs along the crest of a ridge so narrow that the valleys on each side seem to be separated only by a thin wall that a mountain flood might breach. The ride between San Juan and Ponce is one of the grandest offered the traveller anywhere in the world, and should by no means be omitted from one's itinerary. Comerio, a hamlet of the mountainous interior, has a population of some 10,000 people, scattered over a rich agri- cultural region, the chief product of which is a fine quality of tobacco. It is watered by numerous streams, principal of which is the Plata, or Silver, the source of the hamlet's water supply. A great natural curiosity here is a cavern which resembles the interior of a Gothic church, and abounds in curiosities. The climate of Comerio is health- ful, but the place itself is isolated, and though only 17 miles from San Juan, has no good roads running thither. A road is projected through Cidra (a small town in the hills) to Las Cruces, which is on the great Military Road, about mid- way between Caguas and Cayey, and another to Naranjito, directly north, to Bayamon and Cataño, whence there is a ferry to San Juan. Corozal, about 22 miles by road from San Juan, is a charm- ingly situated hamlet 360 feet above the sea, so healthful that its inhabitants are said to die of old age only, the annual 290 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES death rate, if correctly reported, being 2 to 4 per cent. The district is well watered, and the sands of the Mavilla River, a branch of the Cibuco, have yielded nuggets of gold several ounces in weight. Good roads connect with Toa Alta and Dorado, the latter on the American Railroad. Culebra is one of the two islands lying off Porto Rico and in possession of the United States. Approaching Culebra from San Juan, one is not struck by any pronounced scenic ef- fects, the island from a distance looking like a well-wooded, fertile, hilly spot in an ocean of blue and large because of comparison with the numerous islets, rocks and shoals which extend in a continuous chain and barrier from Cape San Juan on the northeastern corner of Porto Rico, southeast- wardly, with Culebra as a terminus. On nearer approach the effect of wooded hills and green slopes ends, except at certain seasons, for as a matter of fact there is little rainfall in the island, and generally the fields are brown and dusty- thirsty looking. Culebra is surrounded by small islands and cays, the three largest being South West Cay, North East Cay and Cule- brita, the last situated just east of the mainland, and upon whose highest point is located the red-towered lighthouse. The United States Government has established a naval sta- tion at Culebra, and in the commodious, well-protected “Great Harbour” lies one of the olden day wooden ships of war, the U. S. S. Alliance. A detachment of the United States Marine Corps and about one hundred blue jackets are stationed here. Besides the Naval Reservation there are two small towns, Pueblo Dewey and Camp Roosevelt, where the majority of the population congregates. Culebra has no industries. There are several cattle raisers and by them some of the finest of beeves are raised for export and local trade. The soil is very productive, but the scarcity of rain or fresh water is discouraging to the land owners. There are numerous diversions for the visitor to Culebra- good fishing, riding, sailing, canoeing and the best surf bath- ing in the world on the soft, white, crescent-shaped, coral beaches on the northern side of the island. There is also good hunting at certain seasons of the year-palomas, tor- PORTO RICO 291 tolas, tortolitas, duck of various kinds, snipe, etc. There are also private grounds, where if the hunter desires he can chase wild goats over the roughest and hardest and hottest trails he cares to follow. Culebra has no public accommodations for the stranger within her gates and the visitor has to depend upon the hos- pitality of the officers stationed there or seek shelter with some native householder; but they are always, I venture to say, well taken care of and enjoy their visit while it lasts. To reach Culebra from San Juan it is necessary to go to Fajardo by coach, then embark in a little uncomfortable, native sloop, which, if the sea and winds are willing, will make the journey safely. There is a line of United States Mail boats which leaves Fajardo, touches at the island of Vieques and then lands at Pueblo Dewey in Culebra, occupy- ing on an average about ten hours in passage. The other method lies in getting permission from the Commandant of the United States Naval Station at San Juan to go to Cule- bra in the Government tug sailing each week on Friday at eight o'clock in the morning, bearing mail and stores to the n:arines and sailors at Culebra, and returning on Monday or Tuesday of the following week.* Dorado, the “Golden,” occupies a small hill a few miles from San Juan, on the American Railroad, by which it is connected with the Capital. The Plata River bounds it on the east, but its water supply is obtained from two smaller streams called Cachaco and San Francisco. The district contains about 3,000 inhabitants, and 6,000 head of cattle, the raising of which, together with the culture of coffee, tobacco, sugar-cane and tropical fruits, occupy the people. There is a church in town, which supports four public schools, with two others in the country district. Fajardo, port of Luquillo and Ceiba, is on the extreme east- ern coast and has a population of about 17,000 in the dis- trict, with twelve public schools in town and six in the coun- try adjacent. It is the only port on this coast considered safe from northers, being protected by two small islets. The town contains many fine houses, three Catholic churches, one Prot- *Communicated by Lieutenant Giles Bishop, Jr., United States Marine Service. 292 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES estant mission, and a hospital. It is a shipping port for large quantities of sugar and coffee. Guanica (see Yauco). Guarabo, an inland town northwest of Humacao and east of Caguas, is situated in a healthful valley amid lofty hills. Population of the district is about 8,500, chiefly engaged in agriculture, a school for the teaching of which, with capacity for 60 students, has been recently established there. Town contains several public schools, a hospital, Catholic church and Baptist mission, cigar factories and rum distilleries. Guayama, on the southern coast, is about 200 feet above sea level, has a population in the district of some 13,000 and is the outlet of an extensive sugar and cattle-raising country. Its wealth is estimated at $4,000,000. The town, which is supplied with pure water piped to the houses, sup- ports four public schools, two churches, one Methodist, the other Catholic, and a hospital. Iron mines are worked in the neighbourhood. Guayanilla, on the river of same name, fifteen miles from Fonce by the Yauco and Ponce Railroad, has a commodious bay, and a scattered population of about 9,000 souls. An un- interesting place. Principal products sugar, coffee, rum, to- bacco, cigars, and small fruits. Hatillo is a small place on the north coast, and on the railroad between Arecibo and Camuy; population of town 1,600, of district 10,000; products coffee, tobacco and sugar. Ten public schools, of which four are in town and six in rural region. Hato Grande is a rural community of some 11,000, with a town population of 2,000, chiefly agricultural. The climate of the district, which has an area of 33,000 acres, is very healthful, and the resources comprise, besides tobacco and cattle, iron, sulphate of copper and two mineral springs. The town, situated 19 miles from Cayey, has four graded public schools (five in the rural district) and a church. Hormigueros, town and jurisdiction, on the railroad be- tween Mayaguez and San German, contains about 4,000 in- habitants, with post-office and telegraph station, some fine buildings; few attractions. Humacao, on the river of that name, about 3 miles from PORTO RICO 293 the southeast coast, was founded in 1793, and has a popula- tion in the entire district of some 23,000 souls. It is con- nected by highways with the Capital, via Juncos, Gunabo, Caguas and Rio Piedras, and with its Playa, or beach, also with towns on the eastern coast. The town is pleasantly sit- uated, has an attractive plaza, a fine church, town house, jail, barracks, and hospital. Fifteen schools have been estab- lished in the municipality, which, though isolated, is one of the most progressive in the island. Its industries are mainly agricultural, sugar and tobacco being the chief products, with several large steam sugar-mills in successful operation. Isabella, a village of less than 1,000 inhabitants, but with about 1,400 in its jurisdiction, is on the northwest coast, between Quebradillas and Aguadilla, with which it is con- nected by rail. Distance from Aguadilla, 10 miles. The village stands about 300 feet above sea level, with wide streets, good buildings of modern construction, and a plaza adorned with tropical plants. The district is agricultural, producing sugar-cane, tobacco, coffee, and tropical fruits in great quan- tities. It contains fourteen public schools, four of which are in the village. Juana Diaz, about 12 miles from Ponce, on the Military Road across the island, has a population of about 28,000 in the district or municipality and 2,200 in the town, which supports five public schools, a hospital, and a Catholic church, the property of the people. An old-style aqueduct insufficiently supplies the town with water, though there is a river near by and a mineral spring noted for its virtues. Coffee, fruits, and vegetables are cultivated in the hills. The mineral waters of Catoni are excellent for stomach troubles. In the district of Cintrona quarries of gypsum are worked, and in that of Guayabel is a cave well worth ex- ploring. Juncos, a hamlet on the eastern slope of the Luquillo Range, is about equidistant between Caguas and Humacao. The population of the district is about 8,000, the total wealth half a million dollars. Sugar and tobacco are the chief products, there being five steam sugar-mills in the district, and several rum distilleries. Of the eight public schools here, three are graded and five are rural, or "free for all.” 294 . A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The climate is healthful, the region well watered, two streams flowing through it, and in the barrio of Ceibanorte an iron mine is in successful working. Lares stands upon a hill about 1,000 feet above sea level and overlooks several fine valleys. It is an interior town, with about 18,000 people in its jurisdiction; casinos, a municipal library, eleven public schools, two of which are in the populous centre, a Masonic temple, an asylum for the poor, a church capable of holding 2,000 worshippers, etc. Connected by highways with Arecibo, 18 miles; Aguadilla, 24 miles; Mayaguez, 25 miles, and 33 miles distant from Ponce. Its Sunday market is very interesting, the natives from the interior region gathering there; the climate is salubrious, the water pure, and scenery agreeable. Its most important product is coffee, and the wealth of the community is estimated at about $2,000,000. A notable natural curiosity in Callejones Ward is the great cavern called Cueva Cajita, where images and stone implements made by the aborigines have been found. Las Marias is a town of some 700 inhabitants situated on the summit of a hill 1,100 feet above the sea, inland from Mayaguez, with which it is connected by a good high- way. The Alto Sano Railway from Añasco also has a station a short distance from town, the jurisdiction of which con- tains about 11,000 people, and produces coffee, sugar-cane, tobacco, etc. Owing to the altitude, the temperature is delightful, and three rivers flowing through the district furnish pure water as well as several fine falls, which are utilised as motive power for coffee-hulling mills, etc. Above the town 300 feet is a spring of delicious water, which supplies the municipality, and sanitary conditions are good. Important buildings are the church, city hall, and a large 1 structure once used as quarters for Spanish troops, now occupied by three public schools, which are in a flourishing condition. Loiza, on the northeast coast, about equidistant from Caro- lina and Rio Grande, is a cool and healthful place in the midst of vast tracts of sugar-cane, tobacco, and coffee lands. There is a large steam sugar factory here, owned in London, which has a capacity of 32,000 bags of sugar per annum. 296 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES value of Mayaguez realty is estimated at $5,000,000; its vega, or cultivated plain, is very fertile, and, like the vale of Arecibo, dotted with homes of planters. It has one of the best market-places in the island, which, constructed of iron and stone, covers 1,500 square yards, and cost $70,000. Important structures are the city hall, San Antonio Hospital, jail, police headquarters, fire department, public warehouses and slaughter-house. The municipal library contains above 5,000 volumes, and is open to the public. There are three Catholic churches and chapels, and a Protestant mission. The city proper has few industries, but ships from its port immense quantities of sugar, coffee, pines, and cocoanuts, being the outlet for a vast coffee region, its average annual export amounting to some 20,000,000 pounds. The suburbs of Mayaguez are attractive, and one should take drives and railway trips north and south, as well as rides into the hills. One of the show-places is Montserrate, about 7 miles up in the hills, where there is a hermitage, a church on the top of a mountain, whence the views are most mag- nificent, comprising vast and fertile valleys watered by numerous streams, and plains, bounded by the sea, contain- ing Hormigueros, San German, and Cabo Rojo. Leading hotel, the "Paris,” which is well situated. Moca is a small but wealthy village of about 1,200 inhab- itants, with 12,000 in the jurisdiction, 5 miles distant froni the port of Aguadilla, northwest coast. A road also con- nects with San Sebastian, an interior town. The situation is excellent, healthful, the water supply coming from wells and rivers. Morovis is one of the towns which finds an outlet for its products in Manati, already mentioned. About 11,000 people dwell in the jurisdiction, which produces coffee, sugar-cane, etc., the chief industries being cattle-raising and rum-distilling. There are many streams in the region, form- ing beautiful cascades, owing to the steepness of their descent from the hills, and near the town is a charming grotto, which was formerly inhabited by Indians, worthy a visit from the curious. Naguabo, on the southeast coast, 10 miles northeast of Humacao, is the place where, according to local tradition, PORTO RICO 297 Christopher Columbus first landed in the island, coming up from the Caribees. A settlement that existed here in early times was attacked and destroyed by the Caribs, but the present site is extremely picturesque, occupying a hilltop with magnificent views. The town is at some distance inland from the playa, or port, which is a good one, sheltered from northers, and accessible to deep-draught vessels. The contig- uous country is largely cultivated in sugar-cane, but the chief industry consists in cattle-raising, up to 20,000 head being shipped annually to other islands. The town contains a church, municipal building, several public schools, hospital, and a pretty plaza with a fountain in its centre supplied with water from the hills. Here the people get their water supply, and here meet for chat and gossip. Aside from agriculture, mining has been attempted in the district, where several deposits of copper have been discovered. Naranjito, 21 miles south of San Juan, and connected with Bayamon by a good road, is a small place, containing scarcely more than 100 houses, though the district is 16,000 square acres in area, with about 7,000 population. The climate is healthful, the products of the region consisting chiefly of coffee, tobacco and cattle. Penuelas, 10 miles from Ponce, in the southeastern part of the island, is situated in a fruitful valley surrounded by mountains, the area of which is some 40,000 acres; population 12,000. The town is isolated and infrequently visited, but contains a fine plaza, with shaded promenades, a church, and a few public buildings. The products are sugar-cane, coffee, tropical fruits, etc. Ponce, second in importance of Porto Rico's cities, with a population of 26,000, and 56,000 in the district, lies on the south coast, 3 miles from its port, or playa. It is hot, but not very unhealthful, the annual death rate averaging 28 in 1,000, and is refreshed by breezes. It is distant from San Juan 84 miles by the great Military Road, and by the railroad around the north and west coast of the island about 170 miles; fare, $10.50 by rail and $8 by automobile. Its harbour is not a very good one, and from it are shipped great quantities of island produce. The city is built of brick and stone, very little wood being 298 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES used in construction, and is one of the handsomest in the island, though surpassed by San Juan in point of size. The streets are regular, and a fine road (though very dusty in the dry season) connects with the playa, where most of the business is done. More than a hundred vehicles are em- ployed in the city and playa traffic, and the total wealth of the community is estimated at above $12,000,000. The city boasts twenty-one public schools, with thirty more at the playa and in the rural districts. There are four hospitals, a Home for the Indigent and Aged, a Ladies' Home, two Catholic churches and an Episcopal and two Baptist missions. Ponce is well supplied with water by an aqueduct more than 2 miles in length; and in this connection it may be remarked that within the city boundaries are some excellent hot springs, the Quintana thermal baths, which are housed in a fine structure surrounded by gardens, and efficacious in various diseases. Ponce was founded about 1600, became a city in 1877, and of its nearly forty streets the choicest are Mayor, Salud, Villa, Vives, Marina, and Comercio. Of its several squares, the chief is the Plaza de Bombas, very pleasant gathering-place, where, in Spanish times, the people assem- bled to enjoy the music of a fine military band, which played from 7 to 9 in the evening. The Spanish traditions have been respected by the Americans, and the plaza is still the centre of pleasure at night, where the residents of the city meet for music and a promenade. The city has long been noted for its very fine theatre, called the “Pearl,” which originally cost to build more than 70,000 pesos. The cathedral is said to be as old as the city, is more than 250 feet in depth and 120 in width, with richly decorated altars and costly ornaments. All the native manufactures are carried on at Ponce, which is equipped with an electric plant, telephone service in every direction, as well as telegraph. lines, of course; has gas works, casinos, banks, a large market, a municipal library, and lastly, two unique cemeteries in its suburbs. The Portuguese River divides Ponce into the city proper and the Playa (already mentioned), where we find the custom-house, captain of the port, and foreign consuls' ices, with a population about one-fourth that of the larger PORTO RICO 299 place. The excursions here are various: to the Quintana baths, the cascade in the hills behind the city, and, if ad- venture be sought, over the new highway to Adjuntas, Utuado, and Arecibo, crossing the island. Ponce became an American city by surrender to General Miles on July 28, 1898. It has three hotels, the Frances, Inglaterra, and Español, rating, in the order named, at $2.50 to $3 per day. Quebradillas, 17 miles from Aguadilla, has about 17,000 people within its jurisdiction, the chief products of which are coffee, tobacco, and sugar, with a small supply of tropical fruits. Rincon is an insignificant place about midway between Aguadilla and Mayaguez, on the railway, with less than 500 inhabitants in town and 7,000 in the district. Rio Grande, situated 25 miles to the eastward of San Juan, between 3 and 4 miles from the ocean, is connected with the Capital by road and railway, the latter as far as Carolina. It occupies the mouth of a beautiful valley of the Luquillo Sierra, the highest mountain chain in the island, and is healthful in situation as well as rich in soil and resources. All the tropical products may be raised here, the hill forests abound in valuable cabinet woods and timber, the numerous streams have yielded golden grains from their sands. The climate is very salubrious, and though the town is supplied with water from the rivers, the place is healthful. The population of the entire jurisdiction, which is very extensive, is about 12,000. There is an ancient church in town, and twelve public schools flourish here, in one of which English is taught. Rio Piedras, 7 miles south of San Juan, with which it is connected by public highway and two railroads, is a most promising place, on account of its proximity to the Capital, its delightful situation and abundant supply of pure water. The town, containing about 1,500 inhabitants, is a junction- place of the roads to Caguas and Carolina, contains a theatre, a casa de recreo, or country seat of former Spanish gov- ernors, two churches, one Catholic and the other Protestant, an asylum for the poor, and eight schools, besides the newly founded normal school, a site for which was dedicated by 300 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES the municipality. Products of the district (population 14,000), sugar, tobacco, coffee, and tropical fruits. In- dustries diverse, with many tiendas, or small shops, in Rio Piedras town. Sabana Grande, 18 miles southeast of Mayaguez, on the road to Ponce, has a good reputation for healthfulness, produces coffee, sugar, tobacco, and is noted locally for its woven articles, as palm mats. The town contains a church, hospital, Masonic temple, city hall, and jail; the district is agricultural, with at least 1,000 farmers, who own the estates they cultivate. They have donated a tract of land to the Government for the establishment of a school of agriculture, and in other ways shown their progressiveness. Few attrac- tions here for the general traveller. Salinas, the Salt Pits, is so called from deposits of salt in this district, which is situated 12 miles from Guayama, on the southern coast. Besides this industry, the people carry on cattle raising and sugar-cane culture. Total population, 6,000; five public schools in the district, of which one is a kindergarten. San German, a city of about 8,000 inhabitants, with some 30,000 in its jurisdiction, lies southeast from Mayaguez, where the original settlement was founded in 1511. It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot of which lies a beautiful valley watered by two rivers, which impresses one as a vast garden, filled with orange, lemon, tamarind, and other tropical trees. It has two market-places, a hospital, seminary, fine schools, a theatre, casino, town hall, ancient church, and a large plaza ornamented with tropical plants. It is now a station on the railroad, lying directly west of Ponce. Santa Isabel lies directly south of Coamo, on the river of that name, the water of which is diverted for the irrigation of its rich soil, producing large crops of tobacco, sugar-cane, and fruits. With 22,000 acres in the district, a population of some 5,000 is supported here. The town has a fine plaza, a church noted for its beauty, and supports four public schools. San Juan, capital of Porto Rico, and the only fortified city on the island, guards an inlet of the northern coast about wios M ARIA Plaza Alfonzo XII, San Juan Shore of Great Harbour, Culebra PORTO RICO 301 one-third the distance, or 35 miles, from the eastern to the western cape. The width of its harbour's navigable channel, at its mouth, is about 400 yards, and in smooth weather ships drawing five fathoms can enter with safety and run in to the wharves. Recent dredgings have improved the nat- ural channel since the American occupation of the island, and here will be established a naval and outfitting station second to none other in the West Indies. The natural advantages of San Juan, situated upon a small island about 2 miles in length and half a mile in breadth, which curves around and protects its magnificent harbour, were early noted by the Spanish explorers. It owes its origin to Ponce de Leon, who removed hither from Caparra, the first settlement, and began a fortification, as well as the castle in which he later resided. The islet is connected with the mainland by two bridges and a causeway defended by small forts; and lying between its fine harbour and a chain of lagoons on one side, with the ocean on the other, its position, as has been repeatedly proved, is almost im- pregnable. The northwest end of the islet, which is bluff, even precipi- tous, is crowned by the far-famed Morro, the initial fortifi- cation, which was begun soon after the place was first found, but not completed until 1584. In general shape Castle Morro is an obtuse angle, with three tiers of batteries facing the sea. It was the citadel, and a small military town in itself, with chapel, bakehouse, great water-tanks, warehouses, officers' quarters, barracks, bombproofs, and dungeons near and under the sea. As in Havana, here stands the faro, or lighthouse, with a first-class lantern, 170 feet above sea level. This old citadel is but the beginning of the wall of circumvallation, completely enclosing the city within a line of connected bastions, deep moats, guarded gates, crenelated battlements with projecting sentry-boxes—in fact, all the defences of a walled city of mediæval times.* On the Atlantic shore, against the cliffs of which the heavy surges continuously roll, a massive wall connects the Morro with Castle Cristobal, which faces oceanward, and also *This description of San Juan, etc., is from the author's Puerto Rico and Its Resources. 302 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES guards the mainland approaches. This castle is entered by a ramp, on the highest part of the hill, to the inequalities of which the fortification is accommodated. It can con- centrate its fire in any direction, controlling the approaches to the city and the inner harbour by the Caballero Fort, mounting twenty-two large guns in former times. Stretch- ing thus from the harbour to the ocean front, San Cristobal dominated the inland approaches with two tiers of batteries, behind walls in great part hewn from solid rock. These fortifications as we find them now were planned early in the seventeenth century, yet San Cristobal in its entirety was not finished until 1771. Still, with its outworks resting on the highest part of the glacis, and called Fort Abanico (on account of its fan shape), its deepmoats and modern bat- teries, San Cristobal in 1898 would have been a difficult fort to capture, had our soldiers been compelled to storni it. Examining the harbour walls in detail, beginning at the southern projection of San Cristobal, we find an interrupted front of bastions, commencing with those of San Pedro and Santiago, the curtain of which is pierced by the España gate. Next is the bulwark of San Justo, and a gate, which forms an arch beneath the curtain, succeeded by the semi- bastion of same name, the bastion of La Palma, the platform of La Concepcion, around to the semi-bastion and fortaleza of Sta. Catalina (built about 1640), which supports the captain-general's residence. Between the fortaleza and the semi-bastion of San Augustine, running northwest, occurs the gate of San Juan, and then follows the platform of Santa Elena. The San Juan gateway gives access to the glacis of San Felipe del Morro, which lies between the captain- general's palace and the citadel. In addition to the great stone walls enclosing the city, some of which are nearly 100 feet high, there are the outlying forts of San Antonio and San Geronimo, which guard the inland bridges; and on an islet in the harbour is the small but strong fort of Canuelo, between which and the Morro, less than a thousand yards distant, all large ships have to pass to make this port. In former wars a chain was stretched between castle and islet, and after the bombardment of PORTO RICO 303 San Juan by the American feet (May 12, 1898), a ship was sunk in the channel and the harbour mined. This wreck was found to block the harbour very effectually by the first United States cruiser, the New Orleans, which arrived at San Juan about mid-August, 1898. Sampson's bombardment did small damage, considering the vast weight of metal that was hurled at and into San Juan, so that the residents of the city are wont to speak of it with derision. San Juan Inside the Walls. This intramural city is the oldest and quaintest possession of the United States in the New World, having been founded early in the sixteenth century, ten years after the city of Santo Domingo, ante- dating Havana six or seven years, St. Augustine, in Florida, more than fifty years, and Santiago de Cuba two or three years. Entering a great gateway in the walls, we find the city regularly laid out, with six streets running east and west and seven others crossing them at right angles. There are two large plazas and several smaller squares, called plazuelas, which are the favourite places for promenades and recreation. In the Plaza Colon stands an imposing marble and granite monument of Columbus, after whom the square was named, and in the Plaza San José is a bronze statue of Ponce de Leon, these men, respectively, discoverer and coloniser of the island. The statue of Ponce was cast from cannon captured from the English in 1797, and is of natural size, representing the conquistador on foot leading his followers to the charge. His remains, by the way, were long pre- served in the church of Santo Domingo, a leaden casket containing them, with an inscription in Spanish relating that “here rests the first Adelantado of Florida, first Con- quistador and Governor of this island of San Juan." The houses are mainly of massive construction, Oriental- Spanish in aspect, with flat roofs and jutting balconies, grilled windows without glass, open patios in the centre, and, until the coming of the Americans, had few sanitary conveniences. There was a howl of woeful protest when the conquerors compelled the owners of houses to install sanitary arrangements where none had ever been before, and to connect with the sewers, which were constructed in streets that had previously served as open drains. But the work 304 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES has been done, and San Juan, formerly liable to serve as a plague-centre for the breeding of tropical diseases, is now one of the most cleanly of cities. To add to the danger from defective drainage, San Juan had what was virtually. an intramural cemetery, by the seaside, just beyond the Morro glacis, where the graves were rented for terms of years, the tenants of which, when their terms had expired, were ejected and their bones pitched into a corner of the graveyard wall. This cemetery still exists, with marble monuments within it, and long rows of stone cells against the fortress walls, where the bodies of the rich are pigeon-holed, after a form of sepulture used in Latin countries. Trapezoidal in shape, San Juan rises amphitheatre-like from its harbour, completely enclosed within walls from 50 to 100 feet in height, in general appearance somewhat resembling Algiers, with its gaily coloured houses, airy miradores, and castellated battlements; though not so imposing as that "diamond in an emerald setting,” nor quite so picturesque. The buildings are mainly of mamposteria, with plain fronts, though sometimes with Tuscan cornices, and iron balconies. Of the thousand and more houses within the walls, not more than half are two stories in height, but few are three, and all, of course, are chimneyless. The streets are flagged, and until recently were filthy, for water was scant; but now there is a water supply piped into the city from the Rio Piedras, where the reservoirs and pumping engines are located. The former palace of the captain-general, now the execu- tive mansion and governmental headquarters, is a most im- posing edifice, taken together with the battlemented platform on which it stands, and should be the first objective of one's visit. Near it stands the Casa Blanca, or White House, ancient castle of San Juan's founder, Ponce de Leon, the oldest and most attractive structure here, with its walled-in garden and surrounding palms. Other fine buildings are the city hall, the archiepiscopal palace, theatre, Jesuit col- lege, military hospital, the cathedral, with its spacious naves and altar of exquisite marbles; the church of Santo Domingo, plain and severe; the Providencia, which contains the special patroness of Porto Rico, Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, PORTO RICO 305 with a cloak and jewels valued at $35,000. The largest structure here, aside from the forts, is the Cuartel de la Ballaja, barracks built for Spanish troops, three stories in height, and covering, with its patio, a space of 77,700 square meters. It overlooks the great parade ground on the glacis, and was somewhat damaged by shells in the bombardment, as also was the church of Santo Domingo. There are fifteen or twenty places of worship in San Juan: eight Catholic churches, the cathedral, and seven chapels; three Methodist, and one each Presbyterian, Episcopal, and Lutheran missions; a well-established Young Men's Chris- tian Association ; several American and native clubs, a casino, library and a spacious market-place on the hill, which all should visit, for types of the paisanos, or countrymen, as well as for preserves, fruits, and articles of native work- manship. The city is provided with several public schools, a high, a night, and an art school, three hospitals and five asylums for the poor. The stores are numerous and well stocked, formerly with European goods, but latterly more with American. For fans, curios, etc., go to the stores around the plaza, where the American shops are well sup- plied, as well as the native and Spanish. Outside the walls are several suburbs, the principal ones being known as the Marina and Puerta de Tierra, with per- haps 7,000 of San Juan's total of 32,000 between them. The Marina snuggles up against the great wall, with an overflow of gardens and small parks filled with choice plants, dotted with kiosks and drinking booths, and with a broad avenue running toward the mainland. Here are the wharves, the customs and warehouses, arsenal, the railroad stations, etc., and formerly there stood here an uncouth structure of stone and corrugated iron, which was the cockpit. Since bull and cock fighting have been prohibited, the Puertoriquenos have been compelled to pursue their delightsome sports clandes- tinely; but in the Spanish times hardly a sidewalk of the Marina that did not show at least a dozen game birds staked out for an airing. It is an easy descent from the city proper to the Marina, and every afternoon the walks and booths are occupied by people on recreation bent. A more pleasur- able place, however, in the writer's estimation, is the little 306 A ĠUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES suburb of Santurce, on the road leading out to the main island. Here good Americans find delights in nature's woo- ing; here a fine club is located, and recently a hotel has been established, Las Palmas, The Palms, where the rooms and cuisine are a glad surprise to visitors accustomed to such hostelries as the island has hitherto supplied, which were rather to be shunned than sought. Santurce is about twenty minutes' ride from the city. In the city there is the “Colonial” Hotel, situated on the Plaza, and conducted on the "American” plan, at $2.50 per day. The largest of its kind is the Inglaterra, which is Spanish in every particular. Rates, $2.50 to $3 per day. As with many the putting up at a foreign hotel is in the nature of a dubious experiment, the Porto Rico Steamship Company has provided excursions around the island in which one may tarry on board ship, or make it headquarters while in port at a certain fixed rate per diem; and this arrange- ment has proved extremely satisfactory to all concerned. San Sebastian, with 1,700 people in the town and 16,000 in the jurisdiction, is situated in the interior, 14 miles south- west of Aguadilla. A good road connects it with Moca and Aguadilla, another is projected to Lares, farther inland, and a horse trail leads to Añasco. It is off the main line of travel, but to some is all the more interesting for that, espe- cially as there are several natural curiosities in the district : at Guajataca and Enea two large caves and a fine waterfall, and at Poza some warm springs. The district is well watered by the Culebrinas River. Seven public schools in town, and a church. The products are sugar-cane, coffee, fruits, and vegetables. Santurce, a suburb of San Juan, is situated on the shore, about 3 miles distant. It contains about 4,000 inhabitants, with a constantly growing population. Toa Alta, 15 miles from San Juan, and as many more directly inland from the northern coast, is a hill town, with delightful climate, containing about 1,000 inhabitants, with 9,000 in the district. A good road leads to Bayamon, another to the coast, crossing the line of the American Railroad at Dorado. Three of its 5 public schools are in town and 2 in the country district. The people are chiefly occupied PORTO RICO 307 in the raising of cattle, and cultivation of sugar-cane, coffee, and tobacco. Several sugar-mills in the neighbourhood. Toa Baja, one of the oldest settlements in the island, is near coast and railroad, 10 miles west of San Juan, on the highway between the Capital and Arecibo. Its excellent situation, in the fertile valley of the La Plata River, makes it a desirable place of residence. Sugar-cane grows here luxuriantly, also tobacco, while cattle-raising and dairy-farm- ing are pursued by the people, who find a market for milk and beef at San Juan. The jurisdiction contains about 4,000 inhabitants. The town has a church, plaza, and a few fine buildings, but its chief attraction consists in the climate, which is cool and salubrious. Trujillo Alto, a town of some 2,000 inhabitants, with double that number in the jurisdiction, lies 15 miles south- west of San Juan, in the valley of the Rio Grande. The nearest railroad station is at Rio Piedras, a little more than 7 miles distant. Utuado, an interior settlement, about midway between Arecibo on the north coast and Ponce on the south, con- tains within its jurisdiction 142 square miles of territory, traversed by two macadamised roads. It is 14 miles from Arecibo, and in a direct line 56 from the Capital. The general situation, being at an altitude of 1,500 feet above the sea, is excellent, the climate cool and salubrious. The pop- ulation numbers about 44,000, scattered over the jurisdiction. The central settlement has a church, 24 public schools, II of which are rural, a municipal hospital, and an aqueduct. This is a coffee district chiefly, for the hulling and preparation of which for market there is a large mill in the town; but considerable tobacco is raised and manu- factured into cigars. In this isolated district are several fine cascades, the Saltos de Morones, Saltillos, and Canalizos. In the barrio of Caguana is a natural formation called the “Cavern of the Dead," on account of numerous Indian skeletons found there years ago. Utuado has a post-office and a telegraph station. No hotel. Vega Alta, 22 miles southwest of San Juan, is the chief town of a jurisdiction containing about 6,000 inhabitants, itself 1,000. It has a church, a city hall, and 2 public 308 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES schools. It is connected with Bayamon by road. The climate is good; the products are coffee, sugar-cane, tobacco, fruits, and many cattle are raised here. Nearest railroad station at Vega Baja, 13 miles, over a good road. Vega Baja, on the railroad, 2372 miles west of San Juan, is a village of about 2,500, in a jurisdiction of 10,000. It has 10 public schools, in one of which English is taught; a cigar factory, 3 markets, one owned by the town, etc. The church here, which faces the plaza, has 2 towers, one containing a bell and the other the public clock, and is considered one of the finest in the island. Opposite it stands the town hall, built of rubble masonry. The aspect of town and plaza is very agreeable. There are 3 sugar-mills here, sugar-cane, tobacco and coffee being the chief crops. The Cibuco River flows through the territory, and discharges into the ocean, which bounds the jurisdiction on the north. Vieques, Island of. Though out of the line of ordinary travel, the island of Vieques, which lies 13 miles east of Humacao, is an important province, being 21 miles long by 6 miles wide, and is very well worth a visit. Its interior is mountainous, with great timber forests, but it has many fertile valleys in which cane, coffee, and tropical fruits are grown; the climate is salubrious; the cattle raised here are shipped to various islands. The island supports a popula- tion of about 6,000, the town and populous centre being Isabel Segunda, on the north coast of the island. Its port is unsafe when the “northers” blow, at which time vessels run to one of the south ports, the best being Punta Arenas. Communication with Vieques is maintained by sailing vessels only. The town of Isabel contains a church, a munici- pal hospital, 9 public schools, but no hotel. The municipal well, which is said to be never failing, furnishes the city with water, though the main dependence is upon cisterns. Yabucoa, a town with an Indian name, on the southeast coast, beautifully situated, but isolated, 10 miles southwest of Humacao. It stands upon a hill overlooking a beautiful valley, has a healthful climate, but is supplied with water from streams only. The town has 4 public schools, with 4 in the rural districts, a church, hospital, etc. Number of inhabitants in town, 1,800; in jurisdiction, 14,000. PORTO RICO 309 Yauco, on the railroad near the south coast, 16 miles south- east of San German, was founded in 1756, and existed in obscurity for nearly 150 years, until the coming of the Americans, in 1898, called attention to the region of which it is the chief settlement. Town and jurisdiction combined have an area of 65,000 acres and 27,000 population. The coffee and tobacco raised here have a reputation, 9,000 acres of the former and 3,000 of the latter being under cultivation. The town lies at an elevation of 150 feet above the sea, with a fine climate and good running water, under a high range of hills. It is connected by a cart road with the port of Guanica, where there is a playa, or shore settlement of about 1,000 people. This port was the initial point in the strategic plans of General Miles in his occupation of the island. As it has a “steep-to” shore, with a great depth of water, and was unguarded by mines or fortifications, it was, of all the island ports, best suited for his purpose. At the port of Guanica vessels drawing 20 feet of water may enter with safety. The entrance is about 100 yards wide, to a spacious basin, completely landlocked, where large ships can lie close to the shore. The entrance is com- manded by two small hills on either side, which, if fortified, could defy a squadron to force it. Yauco was for a long time, until the terminals of the Island Belt Line were united, the terminal station of the Ponce and Yauco Railroad; but now has continuous com- munication with both Ponce and San Juan. There are 22 public schools in the district, a hospital, Catholic church, and a Protestant mission. The soil of the valleys is fertile, and the hills abound in scattered forests of cabinet woods. Ascent of Yunque Mountain. It is from Luquillo, gen- erally, that the ascent of the great central peak, Yunque, is attempted. This ascent is not often made, but there may be a few to whom it would be interesting, hence the brief description, kindly contributed by Mr. Warren H. Manning, landscape designer, of Boston, Mass., will be appreciated. "... We started out in the afternoon, going up one of the spurs from the village until we came to a plantation house owned by a Spanish family. They of course advised us to wait till ‘mañana,' but I insisted on going on, so they finally said 310 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES that we could go to a big overhanging stone part way up the mountain before sunset, camp there for the night, find our way to the summit the next forenoon, and back again in the afternoon. The road up to the plantation house was the ordinary country road of the island, fairly passable for vehicles. From this point on it passes through open fields, following the ridge, by one or two huts occupied by half- breeds, then into the heavy woods, on rather a steep but not troublesome grade. The trail in places was little more than a water-course gullied out of the clay, quite slippery and steep, but not difficult. "From the heavy woods we passed into a zone of scattered trees with undergrowth of palms, with a rather steep climb for about half a mile. In this growth was a big stone 'camp,' under which we passed a dreary night, with many bird and insect notes to keep us awake. In the morning we soon came to an open place on a shoulder of the mountain, cov- ered with patches of shrubs, between which were glades, the shrubs being high enough to prevent one from seeing out, so that great difficulty was experienced in tracing the trail. After passing across this comparatively easy grade we came again to thick woods, with the trail in many places quite steep, until the base of the mountain cone was reached. The first part of this climb onward was very steep, requiring almost constant use of hand-poles; half way up the ascent was gradual. The apex of the cone was comparatively small in area, with a clear outlook into the mountain tops to the west, but with thickets of shrubs to the east. Rain fell nearly all the time during the day, the clouds only breaking away for a moment now and then, sufficient to give a glimpse of Culebra and Vieques, with fleeting visions of the moun- tainous interior of the main island. I was told that the mountain is almost invariably capped by clouds, and that it is very seldom that one can obtain a view from its summit; but my interest in the fora of this region and the pleasure of reaching the peak were sufficient to justify me in taking the trouble I did. One of the most interesting conditions that grew out of the constant moisture on the mountain side was that practically all the stems and leaves were cov- ered with a growth of moss, very few being free from it." PORTO RICO 311 Steamship Connections. With New York and European Ports. Distance: New York, 1,400 miles. New York and Porto Rico Steamship Company, weekly sailings, leaving New York on Saturdays, reaching San Juan in four to five days. Rates: First-class, $45-$55; return, double less 10%. Second-class, $25-$30; return, double less 10%. Time to Ponce and Mayaguez, about six days. “Special cruises” to and around Porto Rico, living on board ship and making it headquarters, $140-$150, all expenses. The “Red D” Line, New York, Porto Rico and Venezuelan ports, bi-weekly sailings. Time, four to five days, direct. Ratės, as above. With New Orleans; distance, 1,460 miles. New York and Porto Rico Line, monthly sailings. Rates : Same as to and from New York. New Orleans excursion tickets valid over New York service returning. With Cuba: Herrera Line, via Santo Domingo, north coast, monthly sailings to and from Porto Rico and Cuba. With Spain, via Cuba and direct, Herrera Line and Spanish steamers. With France, England, Germany, by occasional steamers to respective countries; though best and most fre- quent service is via New York. Historical. Discovered by Christopher Columbus, on his second voyage to the West Indies, who first landed here at Aguada, near the northwest point of the island. 1493 He was then on his way to Santo Domingo, and did not revisit the island, which he named San Juan Bautista de Puerto Rico. Its native name was Boriquen. Juan Ponce de Leon, Spanish conquistador, who was then governor of eastern Santo Domingo, went over to look at the island, the hills of which he could see from 1508 his province, and was so impressed by its beauty and resources, as well as by the reception accorded him by Agueynaba, the native cacique, that he made a settle- ment the next year on the north coast. This he called Caparra, and it lies near the present capital, San Juan, for which it was abandoned two years later. This year, the first in which negro slaves were introduced into Porto Rico, Ponce de Leon made his famous voyage through the Bahamas, which resulted in the discovery of 312 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Florida. He was in search of the fabled “Fountain 1512 of Youth,” and, being unsuccessful, made another voyage in 1521, when he was wounded by an Indian arrow, and died in Havana. His remains were brought back to San Juan, where they are preserved to-day, and where also may be seen the castle he built, called the Casa Blanca, and a modern monument erected to his memory. Porto Rico was greatly harassed by pirates and privateers during the sixteenth century, beginning as early as 1516. In 1529 French privateers sacked and burned the 1516- town of San German, and the next year cannibal 1586 Caribs carried off the governor, whom they prob- ably devoured. In 1565 Sir John Hawkins arrived at the island on a privateering voyage, and in 1572 Sir Francis Drake, another “royal pirate” looking for spoils, paid Porto Rico a visit. Neither of these worthies did great harm at the time; but in 1595, learning that a galleon with vast treasure was refitting at San Juan, they sailed in company for Porto Rico. It was a fatal voyage for both, as Sir John Hawkins died when off the eastern end of the island, and Sir Francis Drake, after engaging with the castle and forts at San Juan (in which fight he lost heavily), sailed for the Spanish Main, where he died off Porto Bello and was buried at sea. Treasure to the amount of $4,000,000 was taken from the galleons in harbour and buried ashore by the Span- iards, so that Sir Francis left behind him more spoils than he had taken in the great Armada, which he had helped destroy but a few years before. Seventeenth Century. The island participated in the dis- asters attending all the Spanish possessions in the West Indies during the seventeenth century, for the French, Dutch, and English buccaneers were very troublesome all along the coast. An expedition sailed from San Juan in 1630, com- manded by Don Federico Toledo, which drove the buc- caneers from their stronghold in St. Kitts and broke them up for a while; but they reassembled on the island of Tortuga, off the north coast of Haiti, where they became stronger than ever. For nearly seventy years they preyed upon Spanish commerce in the Caribbean Sea, and occasion- ally made descents upon their settlements. In 1698 an Eng- PORTO RICO 313 lish squadron of twenty-two ships attacked San Juan, which was then protected by its Morro and strong forts, and would probably have taken it had not a hurricane dispersed the fleet, sinking many vessels and drowning their crews. For this deliverance the Porto Ricans annually offered thanks on a special feast day, and afterward considered themselves as divinely protected. A combined Dutch and English squadron attacked San Juan, but was driven off by a hurricane, though a Spanish fleet, which had been gathered to repel the enemy, 1702 was totally destroyed. Then the islanders reluc- tantly admitted that the disaster of four years pre- vious, which operated solely against the foreigners, might not have been a Providential visitation after all. The eighteenth century was peaceful in the main, the buc- caneers having been suppressed; but toward its close an event occurred which had a bearing upon Porto Rico. In 1797, the French and Spanish having formed an alliance against England, the British successfully operated against them through their West Indian colonies, and in 1797 an attack was made upon Trinidad, then a Spanish possession. A squadron under Sir Ralph Abercromby assembled in front of Port-of-Spain, which surrendered, carrying with it the island, on the condition that all Spaniards desiring it should be repatriated. Abercromby's attack upon Porto Rico was not so fortunate. That being the nearest Spanish island of importance to Trinidad, he went there forthwith, and made several attempts to capture San Juan. After two weeks of desultory bombardment and hand-to-hand encounters in the streets the English were compelled to leave without accom- plishing their object, with a loss of 230 killed and wounded. That bombardment of San Juan by Abercromby in 1798 was the last it underwent until Admiral Sampson's attack 100 years later. Few events of importance took place in Porto Rico during the nineteenth century, and being undisturbed by agitations for separation from the mother country, such as were 1898 rife in its sister colony of Cuba, it continued to prosper. Although its aboriginal population had been exterminated early in its history as a colony of Spain, 314 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES it had received numerous immigrants from Europe, and its white inhabitants were numerically superior to those of any other island in the West Indies. It had numerous towns and villages, and several fine cities, like San Juan, Ponce, and Mayaguez, with imposing architecture. Though it had taken no part in the contention between Spain and the United States, still its sympathies were, of course, with its "mother land.” It was looked upon by the Americans as a possession not only valuable in itself, but of great importance as a strategic base of operations against Cuba, after the virtual declaration of war, consequent upon President McKinley's ultimatum to Spain. During that prolonged suspense occasioned by the unknown whereabouts of Admiral Cervera's fleet, which left the Cape de Verde islands the last week in April for West Indian waters, an American squadron under Admiral Sampson cruised blindly in search of the Spaniards, finally arriving in the vicinity of San Juan. In the belief that the enemy might have put in there to coal and refit, an examination of the harbour was undertaken, eventually ending in the futile bombardment of San Juan's ancient Morro and forts on May 12, 1898. No material damage was done, however, and the fleet sailed away, leaving the Porto Ricans in possession, of their island. After American success in Cuba had been assured by the destruction of Cervera's fleet and the capture of Santiago, General Nelson A. Miles sailed for Porto Rico with about 4,000 troops, and, landing on the south coast July 25th, at the little-known port of Guanica, soon had the island at his mercy. The enemy had expected him to land on the north or northeast coast of the island; but by a succession of strategic moves the American general swiftly advanced from the south coast, taking the important city of Ponce within three days of his arrival without the firing of a gun. Send- ing General Brooke to Arroyo, on the southeast coast, whence he was to flank the Spaniards by a rapid march inland; General Schwan westward to Mayaguez, which was · quickly taken ; General Henry northwardly toward Arecibo, and General Wilson northeasterly along the great inland highway between Ponce and San Juan, the commanding PORTO RICO 315 general developed a strategic scheme that would soon have eventuated in the capture of the island. There had been no real fighting, and only four skirmishes (for the Spanish soldiers invariably marched out of a town as the Americans marched in, to the enthusiastic vivas of the populace) when news arrived which put a stop to the triumphal prog- ress. Brooke had accomplished his grand flank movement, and had the mountain town of Cayey under his guns; Wil- son's men had unlimbered their guns upon the intrenchments at Aibonito (having gained a commanding position amid a hail of shell and shrapnel, from which they could have anni- hilated the foe) when hostilities were ordered suspended. A peace protocol had been signed, and pending negotiations the victors were to rest upon their guns. They sullenly complied, though some of the Americans wept from rage when compelled to forego the fruits of a victory which they knew to be within their grasp. The island was conceded to the United States by diplomatic negotiation, but was fairly won by conquest, just the same.. Suspension of hostilifies dates from mid-August, 1898, when (on the 16th) an American cruiser entered the harbour of San Juan (which had been barred to foreign ships by mines and sunken wrecks), and its commander, Captain Folger, paid his respects to Captain-General Macias at the palace. Peace Commissioners, appointed respectively by the Presi- dent of the United States and the Crown of Spain, later con- ferred at San Juan, with the result that the evacuation of the island by the Spaniards was peacefully effected, and on October 18, 1898, the American flag was hoisted over the palace, the Morro, the forts, and public buildings every- where in the island. The first military governor of Porto Rico was General J. R. Brooke, senior member of the commission for the evacua- tion of the island. He was the 120th governor (beginning with Ponce de Leon, appointed in 1510), and was succeeded by General Guy V. Henry, who died in 1899. The third and last military governor was General G. W. Davis, who prepared the way for the first civil governor, C. H. Allen, inaugurated May 1, 1900, in accordance with the “Organic Law" of Porto Rico. SAINT THOMAS AND VIRGIN ISLANDS East of Porto Rico, forming a cluster of isles and islets, with a few exceptions little visited, are the Virgins. They were so called by Columbus in 1493 as he swept past on his way to Santo Domingo, and have ever since retained the name. They lie within the parallels 18 and 19 degrees north latitude, 54 and 65 west longitude, and are tropical in character, though most of them far from exuberantly fertile. Only one of the group is a regular port of call for large steamers and has direct connection with New York. This island is Saint Thomas, 13 miles in length by 3 in width at its widest, the only port of which is Charlotte Amalia, one of the best in the West Indies. It is six days' distance from New York of ordinary steaming; but from Newport News (whence at one time a line of steamers sailed for the •Caribbees and Brazil) it is but five days. But we may say six days, and seven if the Bermudas are included in the itinerary from New York; while fourteen days are neces- sary for the voyage from Southampton, England. Saint Thomas is one of the best of islands at which to begin a voyage down the chain to the coast of South America, though it may not have many attractions in itself. But it has attractions to one who admires contour and colour and does not expect too much at the outset. The island has long been divested of its forests and stands exposed in all its nakedness; but it is exquisite just the same. There is an atmosphere about this old saint which permeates one's very being, and compels a liking for the spot. In the first place, St. Thomas has the best of harbours, deep and landlocked, on three sides surrounded by hills, from which drift down the most fragrant breezes in the world. In the second place, the town of Charlotte Amalia, lying abreast this harbour, built upon three or four hills, which form a concentric inner circle with the outer ridges, is one of the most picturesque to be found in the islands. The houses are mainly of stone, with red-tiled roofs, some having tropical gardens attached, and thus white-walled houses and palms, bananas, etc., are V Charlotte Amalia, St. Thomas Country Habitation, Porto Rico VIRGIN ISLANDS 317 interspersed with lanes and stone steps climbing the hills and meandering through the gullies. The only level street in Charlotte Amalia runs east and west into the country on either hand: east to the Tutu Estate, “Benders," and the Mangrove Lagoon at Bovoni; west past Nisky, Mosquito Bay, to John Brewer's Bay, etc. Nearly all the population lives in or near Charlotte Amalia, and this statement may be verified by climbing to the hill crest that half encircles the town, whence one may look over the entire island and see very few habitations at all in the country district. But the views outspread are grand and far-sweeping, taking in Santa Cruz to the south, St. John east, the Virgin Islands north and east, and Porto Rico, with its outlying islets, 30 to 40 miles westward. The island has been Danish since 1666, and Danish is the official lan- guage, but English is the prevailing speech. Reminders of the early occupation are to be found in the remains of fortifi- cations scattered about on the ridges and in the old red fort commanding the town. Pirates and Buccaneers. As the steamer enters the har- bour, and before one lies the town, upon the middle hill of the trio will be noticed a tall tower, like a truncated windmill deprived of its arms. Perhaps it was a windmill in the olden time, and served to grind sugar-cane when the island had a fertile soil; but tradition tells us that it was long a pirate's stronghold, and that the redoubtable “Black- beard” himself-the pirate of the whiskers and seventeen wives-held forth here for a while. It is called “Black- beard's Tower," at any rate, and as the view from its summit is a fine one, no time will be lost if a visit is paid to it. On another hill to the eastward is a twin tower to this one, which the enterprising proprietor has called "Bluebeard's," from which the view is also fine. The best structures in Charlotte Amalia, which contains about 13,000 inhabitants (mostly black and coloured, as usual), are on Government Hill, while the shops, etc., are on the main street, which runs between the hills and the harbour. Reverting to the view from the ridge behind the town: Directly beneath the hill, to the southward, are the town and harbour, while on the opposite side, northward, opens a beautiful, harp-shaped 318 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES bay, the resort of pirates and buccaneers in times past, and almost as desolate now as then. Here are delightful bathing- spots beneath the palms, in the open, and the fishing is superb. A few deer may be found in the scrub covering a hill that encloses one side of the bay, and in the season come hither migrant pigeons and plover; but the shooting is nothing to boast of. Boating excursions may be made to the various points in the harbour, which is always safe and smooth, except in a hurricane; also to Water Island, Frenchman's Bay, Krum Bay, etc. Harbour of Charlotte Amalia. Boats and boatmen are nu- merous and cheaply obtained, for St. Thomas is no longer what it was in the past, with ships from all parts of the globe making it a port of call, and the entrepôt, in fact, of the southern West Indies. Its commerce has departed; it has no agriculture to fall back on; there are few native industries, save the picking of bay leaves and the distilling of bay rum, and the 13,000 people (white, black, and col- oured) are sometimes at sorry shifts, indeed, to get a living. The Danish officials, are about the only ones who live in luxury; but their money comes from poor old Denmark, who vainly tried to unload its burden upon the United States when the late King Christian was alive. It might have done so, too, but for a difference of opinion as to the value set upon Saint Thomas. It has but one asset, and that is the landlocked harbour, capable of sheltering 200 ships at a time; but even that has been depreciated by invasions from hurricanes now and then. Still, if "Uncle Sam” could have acquired the island at a bargain he should certainly have done so when it was offered him by the all-too-willing Danes; but since the acquisition of Porto Rico the necessity for another naval station in these waters is no longer im- perative. This explanation is offered for a reason. If the visitor to St. Thomas—that is, the American visitor-is greeted somewhat sourly, he may safely set it down to the ancient grievance. The people see prosperity in an alliance with the United States, and know that it means their salva- tion. They are provoked because the Yankees will not come to their rescue. The sights about the town are very few, for it is the VIRGIN ISLANDS 319 pervasive atmosphere of antiquity that charms one in St. Thomas. The old Danish fort, dating from the seven- teenth century, is so obtrusively suggestive, with its skyward- pointing cannon and its woodeny sentinels, close to the landing-place, that it will be one of the first objects visited. No passport is needed for the island, but if a tarry is made here one is demanded by the thrifty Danes for an excursion to St. John and elsewhere, and costs $1. Hotels, Steamers, etc. A large hotel, the "Commercial,” is near the landing-wharf, and the “Grand” a little farther up. Rates from $2 to $2.50 per day. There are also two board- ing-houses, Mrs. Taylor's and Mrs. Danielson's, at $2 per day. Carriages for the few short excursions available are on hire at $2 an hour and horses for riding at 50 cents an hour after the first hour, which is $1. There are good churches of all denominations in Charlotte Amalia, a public library, two tennis clubs, and a cricket club, to all which visitors with credentials are welcomed. Charlotte Amalia is an important coaling station, and there is a large floating dock here for the repair of vessels. One of the sights is that of coaling steamers by negro women, each woman carrying a huge basket of coal, nicely balanced, and without apparent fatigue. Another is the diving of native boys for coins thrown into the water by the new arrivals. They are very expert divers; these black boys, and rarely fail to catch a coin before it has sunk a dozen feet from the surface. While sharks abound in the harbour, as in all tropical waters, the divers treat them with con- tempt, even swimming among and chasing them through their native element. St. Thomas is a free port, and everything that "foreign parts” can yield and export is found here at the very lowest prices. Wines, spirits, ducks, linens, silks, and woollen goods are extremely low-priced, and as the island is the native home of the bay rum industry, this article is usually added to the things'the visitor takes in stock before leaving port. It is sold in New York by Bornn & Co., 28 So. William St. While at one time St. Thomas used to be the chief port in these parts, it is now only infrequently visited by the ocean liners. The Hamburg-American Line and the Royal 320 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Mail make it a port of call for intercolonial steamers, the latter connecting with the main line at Barbados. The most direct line from New York is the “Quebec,” also with the lowest fares, of $40-$55 (depending upon ac- commodation), first-class, one way. Calls at St. Thomas usually depend upon demands for freight or passengers; but the near island of Santa Cruz, 40 miles south, is on the regular schedule, and between the two there is connection by sailing vessel. Several times every season the Quebec Line sends out one of its best steamers on a “special cruise,” the itinerary of which in- cludes all the beautiful islands of the Lesser Antilles be- tween Barbados and Saint Thomas. The time out by this itinerary is six days to St. Thomas and eight days reverse trip, from Barbados to New York. The cost of this delight- ful trip is from $100 to $130, and the time occupied, twenty- two to twenty-four days, New York to New York. The French and Spanish steamers, also the Dutch and German, call at St. Thomas on their way to and from Porto Rico, Haiti, etc., and there are many opportunities by sailing vessels to the various islands south and east, though accom- modations are very poor. The “Gibraltar of America" was a name bestowed upon St. Thomas by those cognisant of its natural impregnability, irrespective of fortifications. The enclosing ridges and pro- jecting peninsulas are capable of being made, it is said by experts, absolutely impregnable to assault either by land or by sea. For this reason, and also on account of its strategic situation with respect to the more southern islands and coast of South America (but more especially in relation to the Panama Canal, one sea route to which it commands), the island has been frequently recommended by naval strat- egists for purchase by the United States. Its vulnerability is owing to natural cause: liability to be swept by hurricanes, directly in the track of which it lies. There are now three great coaling docks in the harbour, belonging to the “Compagnie Générale Transatlantique,” the Hamburg-American Line and to private parties, which handle annually in the aggregate about 80,000 tons of coal. "camers can be cheaply and expeditiously coaled here VIRGIN ISLANDS 321 (though every basket is carried on the heads of women), and in ordinary weather the surface of the harbour is like a mill-pond for smoothness. The advantageous situation of Saint Thomas and the perfection of its harbour was recog- nised by the blockade runners during the Civil War in the United States, who made it their rendezvous, much to the annoyance of our government. To-day, however, the island lives mainly upon its prestige in the past, for trade departed with the establishing of cable communication with the world at large and the neces- sity no longer existing for merchant ships coming here to wait for orders. Not long ago the harbour was noted for its insalubrity, owing to the fact that there was no outlet for accumulated filth; but conditions were changed for the better by the opening of a channel through the reefs, and it is now one of the safest in the world, as it is also one of the most sheltered and commodious. The Island of Saint John. Among the islands in sight from the hills of St. Thomas—the nearest, in fact-is the beautiful Saint John, rugged and forest-covered, watered by small streams, and with many sandy beaches. It is only 8 miles long by 4 miles wide, and has a population of not over 2,000, with white people so scarce as to be very con- spicuous—when one finds them. Saint John has been prac- tically abandoned to the blacks; but it is a gem among islands and deserving of a better fate. It has fragrant forests in which pimento, bay, and coffee trees run wild, and at least one harbour which is as commodious as Charlotte Amalia's, but never visited by larger craft than coasting vessels. Coral Bay, as it is called, is so secluded on the windward coast of St. John, that few mariners even ever saw it, and yet has the reputation of being (what the harbour of St. Thomas is not) hurricane-proof. It also has good anchorage places in deep water-13 fathoms and more—and was once the rendezvous of buccaneers, whose existence here at one time is shown by the rusty cannon scattered over the island in various fortifications. The woods of Saint John are the haunts of wild pigeons, doves, humming-birds, etc., and the waters around its shores are filled with fish. Rarely does a steamer touch at Saint John, and the only 322 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES means of reaching it, except one be cruising in a private yacht, is afforded by sailing vessels from Charlotte Amalia. The bay rum, for which Saint Thomas is celebrated, is made by macerating the leaves and berries of the bay tree with pure new rum and then distilling the decoction by pass- ing it through a "worm." The bay rum thus prepared is the best in the world, and, in fact, the only perfect product. There are two or three distillers in St. Thomas, and one distiller in St. John, who makes his bay rum on the planta- tion where the bay trees grow. Tortola, Isle of the Turtle Dove. A few hours' run from Saint Thomas is the island of Tortola, or the Turtle Dove, a British possession, gone to seed. Once a week a small steamer makes the trip there from Charlotte Amalia; but it is unreliable, and the accommodations are not of the best. Tortola is the largest island of the Virgin group, and its only settlement, Roadtown, on its south shore, with a popu- lation of less than 500, is the capital. The Virgins have a total area of about 58 square miles, and most of them are hilly or mountainous. The population is under 5,000, and the resources of the islands are not large or varied. Tortola is indeed a forsaken island, for almost the only white people in it are the governor or local magistrate and the physician. Buccaneer cannon have been found here, and old coins of their time; but the present inhabitants of Tortola are peaceful and uninteresting. They subsist upon what they get from the sea and by cultivation of the soil. Hotels and boarding-houses are not to be found, though meals may be obtained in a few private families. "The Fat Virgin.” The island of Tortola is 18 miles long by 7 wide, with a mountain forming its central ridge having a peak 1,800 feet in height. Next in size is Virgin Gorda, or the "Fat Virgin,” which is 8 miles in length and contains 52,000 acres of mostly arid soil. It has a mountain 1,300 feet high, the cliffs of which contain rich veins of copper mixed with gold. A copper mine is being worked to-day, and great things are expected of Virgin Gorda, though its revenues are always a little less than its expendi- tures; and the same may be said of all the islands in the group. VIRGIN ISLANDS 323 The third island worthy of mention is Anegada, long and narrow, 12 miles by 2, and so low that the sea some- times breaks quite over it. The few inhabitants are blacks, and, needless to say, there is no hotel, either here or in Virgin Gorda. It is believed that all these islands abound in mineral resources; but hitherto no great fortunes have been made in working them. Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Anegada, or the “Overflowed Island," as it has been called from its oft-submerged con- dition, contains a great lagoon known as Flamingo Pond, which is one of the few resorts of flamingos, it is said, in the islands south of the Bahamas. Like the other Virgins, it was a favourite retreat of the buccaneers, who knew all its secluded coves and harbours behind the great enclosing reef, and by this knowledge were able to escape from their foes in pursuit. At a place called Gallows Bay (from a gibbet having been erected there) rich veins of silver and copper have been traced, and old coins discovered, worth, it is believed, more than their weight in gold. Not only buccaneers and pirates made their rendezvous here, but those followers of the sea scarcely less reckless than they, the privateers, of which number was Sir Francis Drake, after whom the great bay, partially enclosed by the Virgin Islands, was named; for if he did not discover it, he made it his retreat when on the watch for Spanish galleons laden with gold, which sometimes took the Anegada Passage from the Caribbean into the Atlantic. There are in all some thirty or forty islands in the Virgin group proper, the area of the British possessions being 58 square miles. The names of some were bestowed by buccaneers, such as Rum Island, Dead Man's Chest, Dutch- man's Cap, and Broken Jerusalem. South of Tortola, and under its government, is Norman Island, containing about 1,500 acres, and celebrated as one of the numerous burial- places of Captain Kidd's ill-gotten treasure. Isle of the Holy Cross Santa Cruz, the island of the Holy Cross, was so named by Christopher Columbus when, on his second voyage to America, he came sailing through the Caribbees, in 1493. Many attempts have been made to change the perfect Spanish name to French, but with no 324 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES more success than reason, and as Santa Cruz, not as Sainte Croix, the island is best known, and should be. It is 19 miles long by 5 in average breadth, and supports some 25,000 people, the bulk of them blacks, but with such a goodly sprinkling of whites that the condition of the island is not yet altogether hopeless. This is one of the three Danish islands, the other two being St. Thomas and St. John. There is no reason in the world for Denmark to hold them, for she derives no greater income from her tropical pos- sessions in America than from her frigid territory of Greenland. Isle of Rum and Sugar. Santa Cruz possesses what St. Thomas lacks, a fertile soil—74 square miles of it- some portions in a high state of cultivation. Sugar-cane is her staple product-sugar-cane and rum, which is, of course, always a concomitant of sugar, a by-product. In some islands the people make sugar merely for the rum that may be distilled from the cane juice, but in Santa Cruz it is regarded as incidental to the greater operation, and success is attained accordingly. Though given over mainly to sugar producing, the island is pleasing in appearance, with a rolling surface and a diversity of vegetation "in spots.” All the trees of the tropics can be grown here, as exemplified in the gardens, where they flourish luxuriantly, and cocoa- palms adorn the landscape everywhere. They accompany the traveller across the island, 15 miles, and give character to an otherwise almost featureless scenery. There are two towns on the island: Christiansted in the east and Frederiksted in the west, but neither is attractive close at hand. There is a fine view from the terrace of the government buildings at Christiansted, but the town itself is not remarkable. It is also known as Bassin, as Frederiksted is called West End, and the two are 15 miles apart, with much quiet beauty of natural scenery crowded into those 15 miles, all agree who have taken the ride. Rather the better appearing of the two towns is Frederiksted, where, in 1867, the United States frigate Monongahela went ashore. Perhaps nothing more exciting ever took place here, except the negro insurrection of 1878, for the event was caused and accompanied by a tidal wave 60 feet high, which left inte ome und Гее Don nem, DOS- 01 cane > of In Scene on a Sugar Plantation Cruz and mainly with mots." lified Icoa pany acter 7 the uctive f the elf is ysted with chose - the e, in nore. acept used left 2 NO * Negro Labourers, Virgin Islands VIRGIN ISLANDS 325 the old "tub" standing erect among the dwellings of the town. The natives seemed to think that this was one way in which the United States meant to take possession of the island; but after months of hard work the warship was returned to her native element and steamed away, to come back years after and partake of Santa Cruzian hospitality in commemoration of the event. There is but one good boarding-house at the West End, dignified by the name of hotel, but it has a fair reputation. Santa Cruz is more American than Danish, as also is St. Thomas, and the sum and substance of European dom- ination is expressed by about three dozen stolid soldiers, a flag, and a few obsolete forts. Most of the planters are of Irish extraction, but the best plantations, with up-to-date methods and improved machinery, are held by the Bartram Brothers, well-known and progressive Americans. For many years they have had dealings with the West Indies, their name being a synonym for enterprise and integrity. They are represented in Santa Cruz by a "typical Yankee,” once a sailor, now a successful planter, Captain A. J. Blackwood, who has shown the Santa Cruzians a few new “wrinkles” in the way of improved methods, and has renovated the cultivation of sugar-cane. All over the island here and there one may see the picturesque but antiquated windmills, with which the planters who still work after the fashion of their ancestors grind their cane; but these have been replaced by steam machinery on the Bartram plantations, and the results have been most satisfactory. Captain Black- wood's home is at beautiful “Golden Grove," so named because here grow the famed apples of the Hesperides, but his office is at Christiansted, where he serves his native country as American Consular Agent. Like St. Thomas, the island has chosen English as the speech of its civilised inhabitants, though Danish is the official language, while the negroes speak a jargon composed of the two mingled to- gether, with some African words to remind them of their ancestry. The drives around the island, as already mentioned, are very fine, and the road connecting the two towns is cele- brated. The cost for a single buggy is $1 an hour; for a 326 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES carriage across the island and return, two horses, generally $8. The drive to Mount Victory, 6 miles from Frederik- sted, is inspiring; another to the shell beaches of Ham Point and Butler's Bay, and still another to the various sugar plantations. Hotels and Steamers. There is a very good boarding- house in Christiansted, kept by Mrs. M. E. Pentheney, and another in Frederiksted, by Mr. Frank Coulter, who also has an excellent livery. The rates are $2 per day, with reduc- tions by the week or month. As a health resort Santa Cruz has long held an enviable reputation, but travel thither has not been extensive enough to warrant the building of the hotel it deserves or visitors for the winter demand. The West End Club at Frederiksted welcomes strangers with credentials, and the Bassin Club, at Christiansted. From the veranda of the latter club a fine view is outspread of the picturesque bay, where is generally anchored the venerable Vigilant, a schooner packet, which, if it still survives, makes bi-weekly trips to and from St. Thomas, as it has done, it is said, for more than a hundred years. The Vigilant is the oldest vessel in these waters, having been a privateer, a pirate craft, a slaver and a man-of-war, so she has a record reeking with blood and mystery. While formerly a favourite resort of Americans, when the only means of communication were afforded by sailing vessels, Santa Cruz is not so often visited of late by health seekers, who now find the same or a similar climate with better facilities for enjoyment in other islands farther to the southward. The Quebec Line makes regular trips between New York and Santa Cruz, with the same schedule and fares as to and from St. Thomas, and includes the island in its itinerary of “special cruises” through the Caribbees, the cost of which is from $100 to $130, and the time three weeks. Sombrero. The island of Sombrero was so named be- cause of its resemblance at a distance to a Spanish hat. It is the most northerly of the calcareous Caribbees, or of those which form a sort of barrier reef to the volcanic islands, as though fending Saba, St. Kitts, St. Eustatius, and Vevis from the rough Atlantic. It is little more than a VIRGIN ISLANDS 327 mass of rocks, but which at one time proved of value to miners of phosphate deposits, since exhausted. Sombrero is well known to sailors, but is rarely visited, and there is absolutely nothing to attract the traveller that cannot be found more easily in some other island. Anguilla, or Eel Island (sometimes called the Little Snake), lies about 60 miles to the north of St. Kitts, with which island it is associated in government. It is only 16 miles in length and from a mile to 3 miles in width, with an area of 36 square miles. It is sterile in the main, with few trees and little cultivable land, though the people, of whom there are over 3,000, almost all blacks, raise some cattle and ponies, which they export. The wretched beasts are pastured on the salt grass chiefly, and are generally stunted, though tough and hardy. White people here are conspicu- ous only by their rarity, for the island has been practically given up to negroes, who have made it and the outlying islands their home. A cluster of rocks between Anguilla and Sombrero is known as the Dogs, because of their resem- blance to a white-fanged pack of hounds chasing their prey through and over the waves. St. Martin. In olden times, when the French, English, and Dutch fought for supremacy in these seas, it often chanced that some two nationalities were in possession of an island or two at the same time. The joint ownership did not last long, and generally ended in a fight, with the result that the stronger retained possession and drove the weaker away. There is one island in the Caribbean chain which is still owned jointly by two nationalities, the French and the Dutch. This is the island of St. Martin, southwest of and not far distant from Anguilla, which it slightly surpasses in area (38 square miles) and far surpasses in scenic attrac- tions, as it is mountainous, fertile, and in places forest-cov- ered. The striking features of St. Martin are its conical hills, the loftiest of which is Paradise Peak, over 1,900 feet in height. Springs and small streams have their sources in the hills, and along shore are broad lagoons. The northern half of the island is French, with its seat of government in Guadeloupe, and its capital is the inter- esting little port of Marigot, on the leeward coast, contain- VIRGIN ISLANDS 329 accumulated such a vast quantity of contraband goods, that when the British under Rodney sacked the place, more than $2,000,000 worth was taken away. There are no hotels in any of these three islands, nor have they steam communication with other places, except through an infrequent “tramp” or excursion steamer. They may be reached most easily from Saint Kitts by sailing vessel. "Bonaparte's Cocked Hat." The island of Saba is a vol- canic pinnacle thrust up from the ocean depths to a height above the sea of 2,800 feet. Nearly a thousand feet from the shore, one side of that pinnacle was blasted off by an erup- tion some time in the ages past, and here is the island's only town, called "Bottom," because it is in the bottom of a crater. The crater has long been extinct, however, and the people live there secure in the belief that it will never blow out again. There are some 1,500 people in Bottom, and per- haps 300 more scattered over the island, which is only 5 square miles in area, including the hills and the mountain. One peculiarity of the island-mountain is that it has no har- hour. This is a peculiarity that does not appeal to one who has essayed a landing there, for it is at no time agreeable, and sometimes is very dangerous. It is said that no steamer has ever touched at the island except the government packet, and perhaps a pleasure-yacht or two, and of the thousand sail that pass it by at sea, few ever stop to hail the shore. Many years ago, when the first Napoleon was at the height of his career, some facetious sailor named Saba “Bona- parte's Cocked Hat," from a fancied resemblance to the great man's chapeau, as some other mariner called another island north of it "Sombrero.” An Island without a Harbour. From the time of Van Horne and Van Trompe, who once swept the ocean with brooms at their mast-heads, Saba has been, so tradition says, the dwelling place of Dutch sailors, who came here to rec- reate, as they might climb to the main-top for a look ahead. Most of their time is spent at sea, now as in privateering days, but they leave behind their wives and families, who support themselves by a scant cultivation of the soil. The women also make delicate “drawn-work," for sale in Saint Kitts, while boys and girls contribute to the meagre earnings 330 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES of the family. These people are the brightest-eyed and rosiest-cheeked of any one may find in any island of the West Indies, veritable copies of their prototypes in Holland, whence came their ancestors to this island. For they dwell for the most part in a temperate climate, at an elevation sufficient to cool the atmosphere appreciably, and they also live temperately and contentedly in their aeries on the moun- tain-side. As already said, the island has no harbour, and only when the sea is smooth can a landing be made, either on the lee- ward or the windward shore. On the former there is a trail leading to the crater that may be easily climbed; but on the latter it is so steep that one is in danger of falling over the precipices. Yet the residents here climb it fearlessly, some with great loads on their heads, as of half a barrel of flour or pork, which they carry with ease. These are the blacks, who, judging by appearances, have mingled less intimately with the whites than in other islands, as there. are few coloured people, so called, and the Dutch pride themselves upon the purity of their blood. Dutch is the official language here, as in Statia, but the visitor will have no trouble in finding people who speak English, nor in ob- taining guides up and down the volcano, as well as to the sulphur deposit on the leeward side. Saba is well known to the other islands as a health resort, but as there are no hotels, and no sanitarium with a roof over it, and besides, as the difficulties of getting here are almost insuperable to some, it is rarely visited. Saba people go elsewhere by the hundred, especially to St. Kitts and St. Thomas, but their visits are infrequently returned. Hence their isolation is perfect, and a stranger coming here is looked at rather askance, though by nature these people are not inhospitable. They dwell with great content at Bottom in the crater, enclosed by mountain peaks on every side, their little houses set within diminutive garden plots walled in with great rocks, of which there are many millions scattered over the surface of the ground. Some one has suggested that it is well that most of Saba's sailors die at sea, as otherwise there would be no soil at home in which to bury them. It is certainly scant, and the little The Town of Bottom, Saba Landing Place, Saba VIRGIN ISLANDS 331 vale is apportioned into small gardens from which the rocks and stones have been removed and made into walls, so that the lanes and bypaths run through narrow canyons, in places, over the sides of which trail tropical vines hung with thousands of flowers. There are few shops in Saba, and nearly all the garden produce, which includes potatoes and strawberries (articles which cannot be raised in other isl- ands), is shipped to St. Thomas. Excellent boats are made in the crater, and with infinite labour taken down to the shore. The Peak of Saba rises nearly 1,800 feet above the town and may be scaled, but only with difficulty. The beginning of the ascent is at "Martinique Gut,” one of the ravines leading into the mountain, filled with beautiful tree-ferns, palms, wild plantains, and a wealth of epiphytes. It is a hard climb to the summit, but the view thence, embracing an island-dotted sea whose horizon is probably 80 miles dis- tant, is reward enough for greater toil. On the windward side of the island is a sulphur mine, driven in from the face of a cliff, with derricks supported by wire ropes, 600 feet above the sea. It is said to be the only deposit of pure sulphur in America, and is in great request, though from its location difficult to obtain. When the writer was there, the crude sulphur was being blasted from the cliff and shot down to the holds of vessels anchored amid the wild waves below. Objects of curiosity here are the mine itself, the shape of an immense hand impressed upon the rock, which the natives call the “devil's hoof,” and a smooth, fat rock which is always hot, no matter how cool the atmosphere or how hard the rainstorm, and this is known as the “devil's heating-iron.” Some of the cliffs near Bottom have fantastic shapes, and one of them is called Saint Patrick's Rock, from its supposed resemblance to a giant Hibernian. But the greatest curiosity here is Bottom itself, amid its unique surroundings. The distance from Saint Kitts is about 40 miles, from Statia 20, and one may get there best from Saint Kitts, by taking passage in the weekly packet, or chartering a sloop. One of the Dutch Islands. In the general distribution of spoils and partition of territory, after France, Holland, and Great Britain had ceased fighting in the West Indies, the 332 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Dutch found themselves possessed of half a dozen small islands, which they have ever since retained. The largest of these is Curaçao, on the coast of Venezuela, and the smallest Saba, in the extreme northwestern tip of the vol- canic Caribbean chain. Next to it in size is Saint Eustatius, commonly called Statia, which is 7 square miles in area, or two more than Saba. Thus it will be seen that both are very small, and would seem insignificant, were it not for their physical character and history. The town of Orange in Statia is about 25 miles distant from Basse Terre in St. Kitts, from which latter place there is a semi-weekly packet, a small sloop, that carries passengers. Statia vies with Nevis in the perfect curvature of its volcano, and symmetry of its sea-line, consisting mainly of a single mountain thrust up from the waves to the height of nearly 2,000 feet. It is not so completely clothed in forest as the mountain of Nevis, but rises like a rock- pyramid, with a circular crater-brim, from which its sides slope down to the sea. It is one of the most impressive of objects, but, though seen by every voyager to these seas, is so rarely visited that a description may not be out of place. There is no harbour, natural or artificial, to be found on Statia's shores, but on the leeward, or western coast, is the roadstead of Port Orange, where the Dutch Government has recently constructed a steel jetty. This port and capital of Statia is now in a state of de- cadence, but in the eighteenth century was one of the most important in all the Caribbees. During the revolutionary period of United States history it was the resort of priva- teers, as well as an entrepôt for naval and military stores from Holland which were of material assistance to the belligerent colonies. Hence, toward the close of the war, the port was pounced upon by Lord Rodney, acting under orders from his government, and as there was then a large fleet of richly laden ships in the roadstead, plunder was se- cured to the amount of $15,000,000. Scarcely so many cents as then were found dollars have been in Port Orange since that time, and the sad little place is a reminder merely of "he past. First American Flag Saluted. It was here, tradition VIRGIN ISLANDS 333 states, that the first distinctive flag borne by an American vessel was saluted, in November, 1776. What the flag re- sembled no one knows, but it is said to have had thirteen stripes, though the starry field was lacking, and the colours were red, white, and blue. It was carried by a saucy priva- teer, the Andrew Doria, of Baltimore, which had come into port for supplies. The ruler of Statia at that time was sturdy Governor De Graaff, who (rather indiscreetly, as the sequel showed) ordered the flag saluted from the fort. Old Fort Orange still occupies the place it held then, on the crown of a hill above the town, and there are cannon there from which the salute may have been fired; but most, if not all of them, bear date, it is said, later than that in which the important event occurred that brought grief to poor Port Orange. Statia's Quiescent Volcano. An attractive feature of the Statia volcano is that it can be easily scaled. Obtaining a guide in Port Orange, and also a horse, one may ascend to the rim of the crater in a few hours, whence a glorious view is outspread of half the island, and the whole of its near neighbours—Saba, St. Kitts, St. Barts, etc. Then one may easily descend into the “Bowl” by a steep and winding trail, where will be found great ceiba and gommier trees with trunks 2 feet in diameter, as well as luxuriant vege- tation in general that is partly temperate, partly tropical. Physical conditions within the crater indicate that many centuries must have elapsed since the volcano's last erup- tion, and indeed there is no record, nor even a tradition, of one. The writer once passed a night on the volcano, in order to study nocturnal phenomena, and obtain the sunrise view, which was one of his surpassing experiences. The Scenery of Statia. Saint Eustatius consists chiefly of the extinct volcano and the detritus washed down from its cliffs, with the material formerly erupted from its crater, which gave it a fertile soil that at one time was extensively cultivated. In former times, history states, it was like a vast garden, with great fields of sugar-cane, tobacco, indigo, cassava, cotton and coffee; but at present there is little cul- tivation. It once supported 20,000 people, including at least 5,000 Hollanders and many Jews, drawn hither by its riches. 334 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES T'he old cemetery at Orange tells the tale, with its great headstones richly carved, of these ancient worthies; but of white people to-day there are very few (about 150), most of the population (total 1,500) being of African descent. The old church in which Governor De Graaff and other brave Dutchmen worshipped is in ruins, the tower alone standing; their houses, once adorned with precious tiles, fallen to the ground. While Dutch is the official language, the speech in common use is English, since communication with the outer world is carried on through Saint Kitts, where it is spoken entirely, though not always in its purity. The surface of the island outside the volcano is hilly and uneven, the most fertile soil being over on the windward coast. The “White Wall” is 900 feet high, "Signal Hill 750, and Orange itself is well above the shore, the top of the old church tower being 175 feet above the level of the sea. Fort Orange, where the flag of the Netherlands waves, is 300 feet above sea level, and from its parapet is outspread a noble view of sea and cliff- lined shore. Ruined warehouses line the strand beneath the town, where the sea-waves beat, above which fly swift- winged tropic birds that have their homes in the northern cliffs, whence they make long journeys out over the ocean. General Information. Abandoned plantations are to be had “for a song" in Statia, and it would seem strange if, in an island formerly celebrated for its fertility, many spots could not still be found that would reward the enterprising planter. The island no longer produces sugar-cane in quantity, the chief productions at present being live stock, sweet potatoes, yams, etc., and all sugar now used here is imported. This doubtless is the result of adverse condi- tions artificially produced, and not owing to lack of fertility in the soil. Recent experiments have shown that the long- staple Sea-Island cotton will do well here, and also, it is believed, tropical fruits like limes and oranges, which have proved so profitable in other islands. As Statia is nearer to the United States than either Montserrat or Dominica, where the lime has been grown successfully for many years, and has yielded largely, there is no reason apparent why this fruit should not prove remunerative. Fort Orange, St. Eustatius TORTOR UND 8 Gateway of Fort Orange, Statia VIRGIN ISLANDS 335 Under the paternal Dutch Government, Statia's resident population is taxed very lightly; export and import duties are only 5 to 7 per cent. ad valorem; labour is at a very low figure, abundant, and fairly reliable; and finally, there is no more healthful climate in the world. The conditions here are paradisiacal for a life of ease and isolation, and provided the latter can be endured, no other place could be more highly recommended. Hotels and Boarding-Houses. There are no hotels and only two boarding-houses, but rates are low, about $10 per week, and no pains are spared to make the visitor com- fortable. The boarding-house kept by Mrs. Southern, in the town of Orange, is recommended by the American Con- sular Agent, J. G. C. Every, Esq., who so creditably repre- sents the United States in Saint Eustatius. Communication is carried on with other islands by sail- ing vessels (as already mentioned), and connection made with steamers for the United States through St. Kitts. The only steamer touching here is the government vessel from Curaçao, once a month, from St. Thomas and return, via St. Kitts, St. Martin, and Saba. · SAINT KITTS The Island of Saint Christopher, locally contracted and corrupted to Saint Kitts, is one of the most highly cultivated in the Lesser Antilles-speaking agriculturally—and yet it is almost as poverty-stricken as the most sterile of the chain. This is owing, not to the lack of fertile soil, for it is here in vast depth and variety, but to an over-population by that West Indian parasite, the ubiquitous negro. To say that it was discovered by Columbus, is only to repeat what is self- evident, since the great navigator, with unique modesty, called the island after himself, prefixing the “Saint,” pre- sumably to indicate the canonization which his prescient gaze beheld in store for him. It is one of the few islands entirely surrounded by a really good road, which may be traversed at ease in carriage or automobile, provided the latter can be found in the island. Carriages are always obtainable at Basse Terre, the chief port, in the harbour of which is the finest of boating and fishing. Saint Kitts is only 68 or 70 square miles in area, and much of that is “set on end,” with a big mountain in the middle and cultivable land surrounding it on every side. This big mountain is an extinçt or, at any rate, a quiescent volcano, nearly 4,000 feet in height, and with a crater inside its hollow peak that still contains sulphur vents and steam- ing fumaroles. It is called Mount Misery, and may be as- cended without great effort from Sandy Point, a coast set- tlement about 10 miles to the north of Basse Terre. Mount Misery and its Crater. The great and only vol- cano of Saint Kitts may be ascended from either the east coast or the west. The writer has made both ascents, but prefers that from Sandy Point, by which, also, the crater is accessible. Sandy Point of itself has hardly an excuse for existing, save that it is an outlet for the sugar estates, which ring the island round with belts of green and golden cane. But it is a fine place to go fishing from, and may be of interest to visit for an hour or so—not more--as the SAINT KITTS 337 generic sights of Sandy Point are duplicated elsewhere in negro huts and shanties, narrow lanes and shop-lined path- ways. The distance one may ride toward the mountain summit is about 7 miles, to what is called the "Sir Gillis' Estate,” where the horse is left in pasture, and the remainder of the ascent generally made on foot. A guide is necessary, but may be easily found in Sandy Point, as that place derives its water from springs far up the mountain-side, and the crater is well known to the coast inhabitants. It is a matter merely of stiff climbing and persistent effort, as the trail is visible all the way. It leads one through cool and pleasant High Woods, beneath tree ferns and mountain palms, until finally it reaches the ridge around the crater, turning which the descent begins into the "bowl.” The distance from crater-brim to the bottom of the basin is about 700 feet per- pendicular, and at times the path is exceedingly steep. Great trees line the walls in places, and again they are sheer preci- pices, with their faces stained by fumes of sulphur belched from the fumaroles below. Sometimes there is a small pond at the bottom of the crater, but at others it is dry, though at all times the atmosphere is strongly iinpregnated with a smell of sulphur from a steaming pool at the base of the cliffs. Brimstone Hill. The view from the summit of Misery is beautiful beyond the power of mere words to paint, and is a complement to that from the Soufrière of Guadeloupe, though perhaps including a wider range of islands, south and north. Snuggling under the leeward slope of Mount Misery, on the Caribbean side, is famous “Brimstone Hill,” crowned by a fortress erected in the years when French and English were fighting for possession here. Millions sterling were expended upon this fortress, which became so strong that it was known as the “Gibraltar of the West Indies,” and soldiers were garrisoned here for many years. It is cer- tainly entitled to the appellation of “Gibraltar,” but un- fortunately it commands no strait or passage of importance, like its namesake, and as the French left the island for good and all more than a century ago, the place has fallen into ruin. The only inhabitants at present of the fortress on Brimstone Hill are the wild monkeys, with which the 338 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES forests above abound, as they occasionally stray to the low- lands. Good monkey-hunting, by the way, may be had in the great forests that surround Mount Misery; but the animals are so exceedingly shy that few of them are ever shot. Almost any sugar planter living on the slopes of the mountain can put one in the way of gratifying a desire for slaying a simian, or, at least, can direct him to the animals' haunts, which are in the High Woods generally, with fre- quent forays into the plantations. ' Saint Kitts' Capital, Basse Terre. The chief port of Saint Kitts, Basse Terre, bears witness in its name of the one-time residence here of the French, with whom the English long contended. The island has been called the “Mother of the English West Indies,” since the first settle- nient in the Antilles by men of English nationality was be- gun here. It is a moot question between Saint Kitts and Barbados which was settled first; but the latter island can boast, however, as the former cannot, that it has been an English colony ever since its settlement, in 1625. Many bat- tles have been fought here, on land and off the coast, at first with the Caribs, then with the buccaneers, who formed a colony which was broken up by the Spaniards in 1630. In the eighteenth century wars between the French and English there were several naval encounters off the leeward shore. In 1782, for instance, the French invaded the island, and the Marquis de Bouillé (subsequently so noted in the French Revolution) with 8,000 troops, assisted by the Count de Grasse with 29 ships of the line, attacked the English garrison of only 1,000 men, and compelled a surrender. A year later, by the Peace of Versailles, the island was restored to Great Britain, in whose possession it has since remained. The tomb of Sir Thomas Warner, who made the first set- tlement on the island, in 1623, may still be seen at Middle Island Church, where the inscription reads: "An Epitaph upon the most Honourable, Noble and much Lame:ited Gent. Sir Thos. Warner, Kt., Lieutenant General of ye Caribbee Islands and Governor of ye Island of St. Christ, Who de- parted this Life the roth of March, 1648.” Then follows an extended eulogy of Sir Thomas, with a recountal of his ny noble deeds. The churchyards of St. Kitts will well Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts repay e all may The t al, Ba healthf s safe black, writer health The of a L some library others as M. the is to ex A Bit of Basse Terre granc as a the i with and The stead Mrs. $2 pe bicyc toria coas four sons carr isiai i vast is Eng clog : Sta not ! So SAINT KITTS 339 repay examination by an antiquarian, and the circuit of them all may be made in a day. The total population of the island is 30,000, and of the capi- tal, Basse Terre, about 10,000. This city is not the most healthful in the islands, but from November to May or June is safe to live in. In truth, the residents, white as well as black, seem to suffer little from endemic diseases, and the writer has known some of them (at this writing still in health) for nearly thirty years. The attractions of Basse Terre are few indeed, consisting of a botanical garden centrally located, Pall Mall Square; some great palms and ceiba trees; the court house, church, library, local club, the Brighton sugar-works, as well as others of the kind; the elevation back of the town known as Monkey Hill; and the objects already mentioned. But the island, taken as a whole, possesses a fascination difficult to explain, and yet sufficiently evident to one who loves the grand and beautiful in nature. Basse Terre is unendurable as a place of long residence; but through it one may reach the interesting country on the windward and leeward coasts, with their great plantations runzing from the seashore up and into the forests on the mountain-side. There are a few hotels and boarding-houses, as the “New- stead,” Mrs. France's, “Waterloo House," the "Park," Mrs. Syder's and Mrs. Mondesire's, all with terms about $2 per day. Furnished houses can be rented in advance, and bicycles hired at 50 cents an hour. For carriages: a Vic- toria and pair around the island (30 miles, following the coast-line north of Basse Terre), $12 per day, for party of four or five, or 10 shillings an hour; buggies for two per- sons, $1 per hour; special arrangements for four persons in carriage, at 60 cents per mile. Like most of the English islands, St. Kitts uses the antiquated English currency, but vastly prefers the American as, indeed, most of the business is with the United States and comparatively little with England. There has been a strong sentiment in favour of closer commercial and political connection with the United States, on account of a community of interests, which does not exist between St. Kitts and Great Britain. Steamers and Fares. Halifax and St. Kitts, via Ber- 340 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES mudas, the “Pickford and Black" Line, every month, rate one way, $50; return, $90. New York and St. Kitts: the “Quebec Line,” every ten days, one way, $50; return, $90. "Royal Mail," New York and St. Kitts, one way, $110, via Barbados and through the islands. Frequent connection, by the intercolonial service of the "Royal Mail," with other islands of the chain and Demerara. The Kittefonian planters were among the most hospitable people of the earth, but the drop in price of their chief com- inodity, sugar, may now prevent them from being as gener- ous as they would like to be. Through them, the writer became acquainted with insular attractions that otherwise might have been inaccessible, such as the fine waterfall above the Wingfield estate, at Old Road, which is nearly 100 feet in height; the Carib Rock, with its quaint carvings, also to be found there; and, at Mount· Olivees, "Lawyer Steven's cave," from the mouth of which is a magnificent view of the south end of St. Kitts, Basse Terre, and beautiful Nevis, with its cloud-wreathed mountain rising from en- circling slopes ringed about by the sea. One of the finest views is that from Monkey Hill, directly back of Basse Terre, which includes the lovely valley in which the capital is set, and the arid hills among which gleams like a pearl the interesting Salt Pond, where in the season excellent shooting may be had: avosets, pelicans, plover, and other water-birds. All over the island range the ubiquitous wild monkeys, even in the region about the Salt Pond (reached by boat from Basse Terre), where there is little "cover" to shield them from the hunter. The big forests, however, are preferred by the monkeys as their haunts; and they are said to make use of a subterranean passage beneath the sea channel between St. Kitts and Nevis, to range from one island to the other. The photographs from which illustrations are presented of Saint Kitts and Nevis were made by Mr. A. Moure Losada, Basse Terre, who has a well-deserved reputation for excellent work. Nevis. Discovered by Columbus, on his second voyage, 1493, this island was called by him Nieve—a word signifying NEVIS 341 snow, or snowy, from the white clouds which hung about the summit of its single mountain. This mountain is one of the most nearly perfect things to be seen in nature, symmetrical from sea-washed base to cloud-capped peak, which rises to an altitude of 3,500 feet. The island is an oval, only 50 square miles in area, or about 32,000 acres, of which less than half are under cultivation. It's a most beautiful island, fit to be the abode of the highest civilisation; but we are compelled to say of its population, as of so many others in this part of the world, that the major portion is of African descent! This means ignorance and apathy, ruined estates, neglected opportunities, an aspect of desolation, where there should be brisk life and animation. Hot Springs and Sulphur Baths. Nature has done much for Nevis, but man vitiated it all by bringing hither the African, who at first was useful on the sugar estates, but since emancipation has been detrimental to every great in- terest here and elsewhere. The port of Charlestown is a pleasant place, but chiefly occupied by the blacks, who swarm everywhere. It is situated II miles distant from Basse Terre in St. Kitts, and between the two places an active communication is kept up by means of sailing packets. No passenger steamers touch here, except some on excursion tours, though the “cargo boats” come here for sugar in the harvest season. Charlestown is on the west or leeward shore, and the sea opposite is calm, good for boating on and fishing in. North of the town the ruins of a submerged city may be seen, near shore, beneath the surface of the sea. This city, then the capital of Nevis, was known as James- town, and was a flourishing place. On April 30, 1680, about twelve years before Port Royal, Jamaica, was destroyed in a similar manner, it was visited by an earthquake, and slipped into the sea, carrying with it all its riches and its population. Quite near the landing place and Charlestown is a thermal streain of some proportions, fed by numerous springs im- pregnated with sulphur and silicates. These waters are famous for their efficacy in chronic diseases, like rheuma- tism and gout, also for their sedative action in fevers, people tell us. They were once conducted into an ambitie 342 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES structure near a cocoa grove, the ruins of which only exist at present, erected nearly 100 years ago, as set forth in an epitaph on the founder's tombstone. The building is oc- cupied by squalid families of blacks; but one should climb to the parapet of the castellated structure for the beautiful view afforded of Nevis and St. Kitts. Nevis is a healthful island, with about the same tempera- ture, at the same elevation, as all the others have—that is, all the mountainous islands-ranging from 60 degrees aloft in the hills to go along the shore in the calms between the breezes. Other springs, not only impregnated with sulphur, but crystal clear, gush forth in the hills, and supply Charles- town with potable water, as well as the entire southern por- tion of the island. It was not always that poor Nevis was so black as to its population; and even now, on meeting some of the few white planters and merchants resident here, one will surely declare that she is not so black as she is painted. They are most hospitable, and some of them-as also the tombstones in the cemetery-bear names of famous families who came here after the defeat of the royalists by Cromwell. The island was colonized about the same time as St. Kitts, or a little later, between 1625 and 1630. In 1710 there was an invasion by the French, with a consequent money loss of half a million sterling, and following this came earthquake and drought, by which the island was reduced to extremi- ties. Many of the leading families emigrated to North America in and after 1737, on account of an unprecedented drought and hlight, which caused widespread ruin. Famous Men of Nevis. Nevis is fortunate in having had scant material for a history, which is an assurance that its annals were mostly those of peaceful occurrences. Few of its people have become famous; but there are two names of world-wide fame with which the island is associated. One name is that of Alexander Hamilton, one-time statesman; the other that of Horatio Nelson-and who he was the world does not need to be told. Hamilton was born in Nevis, the son of a Scotchman and a Frenchwoman, Janu- ary II, 1757, and lived here until eleven years of age, when ne went to Santa Cruz, and thence to the land known as the ited States. The house in which he was born is now in The “ Circus,” Basse Terre, St. Kitts CON RIR 023 Charleston Landing, Nevis NEVIS 343 ruins; but these may be seen on a hill not far from Charles- town, and a guide may be readily obtained in the town. Of still greater interest to many is the fact that Lord Nel- son, then captain of his Majesty's ship Boreas, was married to a widow, while on a visit to this island. The ceremony took place March 11, 1787, in quaint old “Fig-tree Church," as set forth in the marriage register, which is kept on view there in a case with a glass cover: "1787, Mar. 11. Horatio Nelson, Esq., Captain of H.M.S. the Boreas, to Frances Herbert Nisbet, widow." In the churchyard adjacent to Fig-tree Church are some quaint epitaphs, dating from an early period of the island's history as a colonial possession. The church is an attractive little structure, about 2 miles from the town, accessible by a good road. Considering the hilly nature of the island, the coast roads are very good, and as “American buggies” can be hired in Charlestown (at 50 cents per hour), no better means can offer of seeing the island. The forest-covered mountain, with its foothills fringed with mango groves, is the home of wild monkeys, which are hunted, here and in St. Kitts, for the "sport,” as well as for their flesh, which is highly esteemed. For a more extended description of Nevis, see Ober's West Indian Neighbors and Stoddard's Cruising among the Caribbees. A Little Round Island. The tourist will not be likely to visit Redonda ; but this fact does not excuse the writer from making mention of it, small as it is and poor as it is. It appears scarcely more than a rock pinnacle rising above the sea between Nevis and Montserrat, but it is a mile and a half in length by a mile in breadth, with an altitude of 1,000 feet. The Spaniards called it Redonda, or the Round Island, from its shape; but they never made a settle- ment there, though the present population is about 120. The people are nearly all black labourers, who work the phosphate of alumina mines, for which alone Redonda is valuable. For the privilege of working these mines the Redonda Phosphate Company pays the British Govern- ment, as represented in Antigua (under which Redonda is a dependency), 12 cents a ton royalty. About 7,000 tons of the mineral are annually exported to the United States, 344 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES which amount is produced by about 100 black men, under a white superintendent, who guides their operations. Montserrat. Nearly two-thirds of little Montserrat are mountainous, and a goodly portion of the other third is de- voted to the culture of limes. The island is only II miles long by 7 at its widest, with area 32 square miles, inhabited by about 13,500 people, most of whom are black, brown or yellow-skinned. Montserrat was so nanied by Columbus, after the celebrated monastery and mountain of that name in Spain. He discovered it on his second voyage, 1493. It is mountainous, healthful, and beautiful, yet is little visited, owing to the scarcity of good accommodations and infre- quency of boats to the island. Those of the “Royal Mail” touch there and sometimes an excursion steamer ; but not often is the tranquil life of the islanders broken in upon by strangers. The chief object of interest is the Soufrière, or Sulphur Mountain, with its quiescent, if not extinct, crater, containing solfataras and all the accessories of a volcano that has ended its active career. To illustrate the wildness of the mountain region and its infrequent invasion by travellers, the writer may mention that in 1880 he discovered in its forests a new species of bird (named by the naturalists Icterus Oberi). Small as it is, Montserrat presents a host of attractions to the naturalist and lover of nature, and as the roads are good, the trails accessible, and the natives always ready to serve as guides for a few shillings, one might do worse than to drop off there, at least over a steamer-trip. The chief town is Ply- mouth, a ramshackle place of stone and wooden houses, with a very attractive location, but without architectural pretensions. There is no good hotel here, but very good board and lodging can be obtained at Cocoanut Hill, on a pleasant site overlooking the town and the sea. This house is the residence of the steamship agent, Mr. D. Johnson, whose charge for entertainment is $2 per day, with accommo- dations for ten people. The island boasts a tennis club and contains a small but select society of white residents of English or Irish extraction. Irish-speaking Negroes. As some of the original set- ilers (about 1630-40) were Irish, who took vigorous root in MONTSERRAT 345 the soil of Montserrat, some of their descendants speak English with a brogue to-day. At least, some of the negroes do, and the discovery of this fact by a would-be immigrant from the "Emerald Isle," when being rowed ashore, gave him such a shock that he immediately returned to the ship and home. “Bedad,” he said, “that Irishman had been here only tin years, he towld me; and by the powers, he was as black as me hat !” Plymouth, of course, is on the leeward coast of the island, as the windward shores are pounded by the rough Atlantic waves. The hills and mountains crowd it closely, and thus the most attractive region is right at hand. The lime groves, which furnish the greater portion of the island's revenues, since sugar cultivation has been practically abandoned, are mostly in the hills, and are delightful re- treats. Lime cultivation here has been carried on longer, and perhaps more successfully, than in any other island of the West Indies, “Montserrat lime juice” being famous throughout the world. The highest mountain is 3,000 feet, though the Soufrière-the crater-is at a lesser altitude, and its hot springs are very accessible. Hills and mountains are well wooded and their deep ravines lined with a glorious vegetation. The temperature ranges from about 70 degrees to 85, depending upon altitude and season. Chronology. Briefly stated, the history of Montserrat is this: Discovered by Columbus, 1493; settled by English, 1632; taken by French, 1664; retaken by English, 1668; French again, 1782; finally English, 1784, and ever since a British colony. Steamer Connections. New York, by "Royal Mail,” via Parbados; fare, $105; return, $193. “Pickford and Black," from Halifax, one way, $50; return, $90. ANTIGUA Topography, etc. Antigua is one of the important islands in the Caribbean group, containing, as it does, the gov- ernmental headquarters of the Leeward Islands, which consist of St. Kitts, Nevis, Barbuda, Montserrat, Dominica, Anguilla, and the Virgin Islands. Five presidencies make up the Leeward federal colony, each of which has an administrator, or commissioner, with a governor-in- chief, who resides in Antigua. The island is about 70 miles in circumference, with an area of 108 square miles, and of its 68,900 acres, nearly 20,000 are under cultivation, mostly in sugar-cane. Differing from the islands south of and around it, geologically as well as in superficial aspect, Antigua is comparatively level, with rolling fields, few hills, no mountains, and few forests. Yet it has a beauty of its own, in secluded valleys opening inward from sand-bordered bays, and such harbours as Saint John's, Parham, and Eng- lish Harbour. There is, indeed, little else to see here, except the sugar mills and plantations; but there are many miles of good roads fit for driving and cycling, beaches for bathing, and in the centre of the island a valley of petrifactions, where fine specimens of silicified wood may be had by the cart- load. The capital of the island is Saint John's, containing about 10,000 inhabitants, most of whom are black or coloured. The Antiguans have embarked nearly all their capital in the cultivation of cane, and the thin soil requires so much to enrich it properly in foreign fertilisers that the planters rarely "make both ends meet," and seem to have abandoned all hope of making fortunes. They have made a brave fight in the past, and some made fortunes; but of late, despite assistance from the home government and scientific methods of cultivation, their path has led backward. Sights and Scenes. There are few things out of the ordinary to be seen here, but for rather pretty views of country and shore, one should take the trip around the Birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, Nevis 22 Saint John's Harbour, Antigua ANTIGUA 347 island. Carriage hire is not expensive, as a buggy with one horse can be obtained for 25 cents per mile, and a two- horse carriage, with awning, large enough for four, at 36 cents each per mile. On the opposite side of the island from St. John's is an abandoned naval station, English Harbour, where a single sentry guards the gateway through which at one time entered hundreds of workmen engaged in the dockyard, which the British Government created here. Better places for boating and fishing could scarcely be found than the harbours of Parham and St. John's. The former is on the north side of the island, and very pic- turesque, as is the latter also. Steamers arriving at St. John's are obliged to anchor several miles from shore, owing to shallow water at the entrance. The government expended nearly $200,000 not many years ago in dredging a channel, but gave up the effort before anything of impor- tance was accomplished. The city is well laid out, with a small park, some good gov- ernment buildings, and a large and handsome Anglican cathedral, in which many island worthies are buried. There is a good library and reading-room, and just outside the city are golf links and tennis courts. Whatever of attractiveness the city might possess is marred by the hovels in which the blacks reside, sandwiched between dwellings of the better class, and numerous on every street. Altogether, in spite of the brave efforts of the few white inhabitants, St. John's presents an aspect of decadence. This is the more lamentable from the fact that here resided at one time a sturdy English population, only a remnant of which is left. The city is supplied with water from reservoirs in the country, on Gray's Hill, and there is another reservoir, built by the government at a cost of $25,000, at Walling's, 10 miles dis- tant inland, for the purpose of supplying the country districts in time of drought. There are few springs or streams in the island, and droughts sometimes occur which ruin the crops. At such times water has been sold by the gallon in the streets. Notwithstanding the lack of water, at times, an attractive tropical vegetation flourishes here, which may be seen at its best in the beautiful Botanical Station, and at “Bendall's," a most picturesque sugar estate. BARBUDA The island of Barbuda lies about 30 miles to the north of Antigua, under the government of which it is included. Access to it is only obtainable by sailing craft, and as the island is surrounded by dangerous reefs (which in the past have brought many vessels to destruction), only expert boatmen should be employed, who may be found at St. John's. The island is low and fat, area about 75 square miles, supporting a population of 700 blacks and two or three whites. The blacks are descendants of the slaves intro- duced here by Colonel Codrington, who had a grant of the island in the eighteenth century, and the white residents are here in the capacity of overseers and chaplain. They reside in the “great house” at Codrington Village, which is the only settlement on the island. The Codringtons once lived here in baronial style, with an island all their own, and besides populating it with slaves from Africa, also introduced fallow deer from England, sheep, cattle, etc., all which ran wild eventually, so that Barbuda is well stocked with game. It is, in fact, the best, if not the only, game preserve in the West Indies, for besides the above-named animals, there are thousands of doves and pigeons, plover, and aquatic fowl, in the shooting season. The wild guinea fowl afford superb sport, being abundant, wild as hawks, and as strong of wing and swift as grouse. Codrington village consists of humble huts with roofs of thatch, occupied by the natives, who are almost as near to nature (or, in other words, uncivilised) as in Africa, the home of their ancestors. All labour in the field, and the men are excellent sailors and huntsmen, with fine physique, con- sidered superior to any other negroes in the Leeward group. Barbuda is private property, being owned by the descendants of the original colonisers. Their agent resides in Antigua a portion of the time, and from him must be obtained per- mission to hunt on the island as well as to land there. An African Village. The blacks of Barbuda have or' 350 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES squatter rights in the island, and are not allowed to gather wood or catch game; yet they do not suffer from lack of fuel nor fresh meat from the woods and old fields. Their village consists of wattled huts thatched with palm-leaves, with paths between them scarcely wide enough to walk in, so closely are they huddled together. It has been called, by one who saw it, “more thoroughly African than any other village in the New World," the huts being of the most primitive type. There are no springs or streams in the island, the people depending upon rude cisterns, and the wild animals obtain- ing rain water caught in crevices of the rocks. The soil is thin, and covered with dense thickets of chaparral, where and in the old fields (some of which are hundreds of acres in extent, and surrounded by high walls made in slavery time) roam the wild animals. The laws are administered by a justice of the peace, assisted by a school-teacher and the chaplain. The island is leased, or was a short time ago, by a Scotch company, which derives an income from the native sandal wood, deer skins, etc. Lying low upon the sea and entirely reef surrounded, Barbuda is a menace to navigation in these waters, as there is no lighthouse nor beacon on the island. It lies in the track of vessels seeking to enter the Caribbean from the Atlantic, and anciently was the resort of pirates and buccaneers. Ruins of an old fort, with a fine Martello tower, are near the landing-place, and there are several caves, one of which is large enough to serve as a shelter for a band of lawless men, and was probably used by the wreckers when they plied here their nefarious calling Cascade, Guadeloupe GUADELOUPE A Magnificent Island. Two islands compose Guadeloupe, one grand and mountainous, the other level and monotonous. The mountainous island is Guadeloupe proper, divided from the eastern island, which is called Grande Terre, by a salt creek known as the Rivière Salée. Everything here is French-names of towns, capes, mountains, bays; but the islands were discovered by Christopher Columbus, a Genoese sailing under the flag of Spain, in 1493. There are other islands also embraced in the group, as Marie Galante, named after the flagship of the Spanish feet; Désirade, or Deseada, the “desired” island, first seen by Columbus on his second voyage, and the Saintes; in all, five islands, with a super- ficial area of 650 square miles and total population of 175,000, mostly blacks. This has been the usual succession in all these islands: Discovered by the Spaniards, appropri- ated by the French, Dutch, Danish, or English, and finally all but abandoned to the semi-barbarous blacks from Africa. It was in Guadeloupe that Columbus first saw the Carib natives of the Lesser Antilles, whom he called cannibals, from evidences of their man-eating propensities which he fancied he found in the largest island of the group. For the abandoned huts contained smoked joints and limbs hanging from their rafters, and human flesh (he said) stewing in earthen pots over open fires. This discovery was sufficient to cause Columbus to proclaim the natives cannibals, inas- much as he was privileged to slay and make slaves of such "pestiferous vermin," while he was forbidden by the queen to lay hands on ordinary Indians not guilty of this barbarity. As Columbus was “thrifty,” he intended to fill up his ships with slaves, and would have done so, only that the Caribs objected, and being extremely savage, successfully blocked for a while his nefarious scheme. Columbus had an eye for beauty as well as to profitable ventures, and he de- scribes the glorious scenery of the great mountains with enthusiasm. This has not changed in all the centuries since 352 ES A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES he came here; but the natives have long since disappeared, only a remnant of their descendants existing in the neigh- bouring island of Dominica. Basse Terre, the Capital. English and American steam- ers usually touch at Basse Terre (population 9,000), the capital of the island group, and the French vessels at Pointe à Pitre, which is the commercial centre, and situated in the Petit Cul de Sac of Grande Terre. The latter has a sheltered harbour, hot and unhealthy, while the former is on an open roadstead, small boats being necessary for transfer ashore. The fare is only a franc, and the shore is soon reached, where a market-place will be found in "full blast,” if it be morning, filled with blacks and coloured people in animated discussion over the relative merits of their wares and the products of their gardens, which they have brought from the hills and mountains where they dwell. The Frenchmen who first settled the islands came here to stay, and chose the best points for their settlements here, as in Martinique, picking out one place for their commercial entrepôt and another for the seat of government, in order that there might be a general distribution of the wealth and a thorough cultivation of the soil. And they built roads, as in all their colonial possessions, far surpassing those to be found in the English islands, opening up the resources of the islands to rapid development. Though the hills and mountains come right down near the coast, every point is accessible by good roads, hard as rocks and smooth as floors. By these roads we have no difficulty in reaching the garrison and government buildings in the upper part of Basse Terre, built back of an old stone fortress, and ad- vantageously located between two beautiful rivers. They surround three sides of an attractive square, with a fountain in its centre, and adorned with great palmistes, or cabbage- palms. Another fountain freshens the market-place, where the people daily gather for traffic, and this is surrounded with tamarind trees. As formerly in ill-fated St. Pierre, the now-buried city of Martinique, spring-fed streams from the mountains supply the fountains, around which gather women and children with great jars to be filled with potable water for the households. Not far away is the cathedral, GUADELOUPE 353 the Basilique, a stone structure dating from the time of Père Labat, who came here as a missionary in 1694. The “Bellicose White Father,” as he was called, was one of the best known of missionaries, travelling throughout all the islands of the chain, and later publishing a work in six volumes (now exceedingly rare and valuable), the Nouveau Voyage aux Isles d'Amerique, in 1722. It is a standard work to-day, and invaluable to one who would gain accurate information of the islands in the good old times. Hotel accommodations in Basse Terre are not luxurious, but there is a fairly good hostelry here, the Hotel Celaline, situated on the plaza, facing the sea, and within about 100 yards of the great iron pier. Room and meals for 12 francs, or less than $2 per day, depending upon the rate of exchange. Also two others, the Amelie and Anaida. Excursions from Basse Terre. The best of Basse Terre is its situation, affording, as it does, varied excursions, such as to “Camp Jacob,” seat of the governor's residence in summer, and Sainte Claude, both in the hills, and to the Soufrière, or great volcano. Carriages can be hired here at reasonable rates, each vehicle holding two persons, and also guides. While there are no good hotels in the mountains, small houses can be rented for a stay of any duration at Sainte Claude, midway the ascent, or at Camp Jacob and Matouba, near the foot of the Soufrière. Any party intend- ing the ascent of the volcano should arrange in advance by cabling ahead from Antigua or Saint Kitts to the American consul at Pointe à Pitre, or the vice-consul at Basse Terre. The ascent of the Soufrière, the largest volcano in Guade- loupe, 4,900 feet altitude, though rather severe in its last stages for those unaccustomed to mountain climbing, is a feat worth a great deal to accomplish, and by all means should be attempted, for the scenery en route is superb and the views from the summit (if the weather be fine) magnifi- cent beyond description. Ascent of the Soufrière. Arrangements having been made in advance (at the hotel, or through courtesy of the consul), the start for the Soufrière should be made late in the afternoon, to avoid the heat of day, which is intense, and arrive at the summit in time to view the sunrise, which 354 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES is glorious. At Sainte Claude one finds himself in the coffee district of Guadeloupe, where are ancestral estates still in possession of white men, though growing fewer every year, owing to the increase of the blacks, who are driving out the original proprietors and their descendants. The eleva- tion is about 2,200 feet above the sea, and the temperature agreeable. Here, it is understood, the government will pro- vide quarters for tourists in the military barracks, if notified in season. This is an attractive region to tarry in, with its tropical vegetation, beautiful plantations and temperate climate; but in order to make the final ascent of the peak, it will be better to pass the night at Camp Jacob, where likewise are fine gardens, villas, and a refined though re- stricted society of summer residents. There are great coffee estates here, with winding lanes overhung by tree-ferns, plantains, bananas, and all the rank vegetation of tropical regions. The air is quite cool at night, at early morn and evening, so it is a pleasure to wander about and inhale the fragrance of the myriad flowers. Near Camp Jacob, on the trail to the Soufrière, is a basin hewn from rock into which a hot spring gushes, and where (preferably after the descent from the volcano) a warm bath may be taken beneath the foliage of tropical plants, through which dart gem-like humming-birds on buzzing wings. The final start for the summit should be made very early in the morning—at two or three o'clock, if possible. The ascent is steep, but not severe, and for the first part of the trail leads through glorious groves of pomme rose, where bamboos clash their spears beside the path, and then appear the giant trees of the “High Woods.” Here are forest giants with but- tressed trunks 10 to 20 feet in diameter, which rear their crowns so far aloft that one cannot see them, hung as they are with thousands of lianas or bush-ropes, which them- selves are adorned with flowering parasites, orchids and wild pines, around which hover lovely humming- birds.* Beyond the "High Woods" the vegetation is dwarfed by altitude and atmosphere, consisting of ferns and shrubs, *In Camps in the Caribbees, by F. A. Ober, first published in 1879, this forest and the ascent are described in detail. 356 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES gnarled banyan tree near the mouth of the river marks the conjectural landing-place. At the Bay Sainte Marie, beyond Capesterre, on the road to Pointe à Pitre (it is a tradition), Columbus awaited the arrival of some of his soldiers, who had been lost in the forest, as described in the account of his voyage by Wash- ington Irving. A great waterfall is seen here, distant from the coast in the mountains, like a silver thread drawn against the cliffs and sombre forests, which appears (in the language of Columbus himself, who saw and described it) as if dropping out of the sky. Twenty-six rivers were seen by him and his soldiers on that first visit of white men to Guadeloupe, all of which they forded as they passed through the most magnificent forests they had ever looked upon. The forests to-day are almost as vast, and the rivers as beautiful, as in the time of Columbus; but they are confined altogether to the mountainous island, the other being flat, scantily watered, and yet extremely fertile, supplying with sugar- cane the usine of Arbousier, near Pointe à Pitre, which is said to be the largest sugar-factory in the world. Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe's metropolis, lies near the south- ern mouth of the Rivière Salée, the salt-water creek that divides the two islands. This creek is navigable for small craft, and is lined with mangroves, among which many kinds of birds have their habitat, affording good shooting in the season. The city (17,000 inhabitants) is regularly built, with a fountain in the centre of its square, a market-place, a cathedral, wide, straight streets, a well-supplied museum, a “chamber of agriculture," and a theatre. Owing to de- structive fires, earthquakes, and hurricanes, in times recent as well as remote, the city is not attractive in its architecture, and, like the islands generally, is almost abandoned to the native blacks, whose motto has for a long time been: “Rule or ruin.”'' They have not the wisdom or energy to rule, and so they have inflicted the alternative, and have well-nigh ruined the tity, as well as the habitable country districts. There are two hostelries in the city, the “Hotel de Paris" and the “Hotel des' Antilles,” neither of which affords more than fair entertainment, at from 10 to 12 francs per day. Furnished rooms may be had, with board, at same rates. GUADELOUPE 357 It is the universal opinion among travellers who have had the misfortune to be “stalled” at Pointe à Pitre that while there may be worse places somewhere, they have never found them anywhere! The place is hot and at times pestiferous, for while the bay and harbour are large and deep, the tides and currents are sluggish, and hence yellow fever has no difficulty in finding lodgment there; though, truth to tell, it seems rarely fatal in its effects. From the Pointe fine roads branch out in various directions, and one may visit the foothills of the more elevated island or the fine sugar estates of Grande Terre, with which the flat country literally abounds. Excursions by boat may be made to the smaller islands, where a population exists that has many interesting traits, as in Désirade, the Saintes, and Marie Galante, and the scenery is attractive. While the western island, the real Guadeloupe, is of volcanic formation, with mountains, hills, and forests beautiful beyond words to describe, the Grande Terre, or eastern island, is calcareous or coralline. Marie Galante and Désirade are of the same formation, the former being terraced so that it resembles, some one has said, an old Babylonian tower, supporting a plateau nearly 700 feet above the sea. About 17,000 people, mostly blacks, reside here; and Désirade, which is also terraced and the same in character, only 10 square miles in area, has about 1,400 pop- ulation. The quaint little Saintes south of Basse Terre are volcanic and picturesque, with peaks 1,000 feet in height, some of which are crowned with old fortifications, com- manding a sheltered basin utilized as a naval station. The black and coloured people may be best observed in the market-places, especially at the Pointe, where they assemble by hundreds, some of them remarkably handsome in feature and strikingly perfect of form, as they come in from the hills and mountains, where they have their gardens. All seem thrifty, though almost insolently independent in their bearing toward the whites, whom they greatly outnumber, and in effect dominate. They are not so picturesque in their costumes nor so attractive altogether as the Martinicans in the French island to the south of them; but on the whole are better looking than their congeners in the Dutch and 358 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES English islands. The French language is spoken throughout, and French currency is in use, though interpreters abound, and English and American gold pass current. Means of Communication. New York and Guadeloupe: The “Royal Mail,” via Barbados. . The "Quebec Line,” fare, one way, $50; return, $90. From England: Southampton and London, the “Royal Mail." France via Compagnie Générale Transatlantique. Intercolonial service, French, between Guadeloupe and Cayenne, French Guiana, touching at Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Barbados. Mountain Valley, Dominica 30 RAS 2029 EN 833S Town of Roseau, Dominica DOMINICA A Mountainous Island. Dominica is a very beautiful island, a little more than 15 degrees north of the equator, 29 miles in length at its longest and 16 in breadth at its broadest, with a computed area of 290 square miles, of which a great portion consists of hills and mountains. Of its 186,000 square acres, only 70,000 are under cultivation, and it is one of the wildest of islands, as well as the largest in the “Leeward” group. It is large, however, only rel- atively, though a great mountain ridge runs through its centre, culminating in the peak long known as Diablotin, or Devil Mountain, which is 4,750 feet in height. It is the loftiest in the Lesser Antilles, and overlooks a vaster area of forest, perhaps, than any other in the West Indies, except some peak in Trinidad. Side spurs and lateral ranges of hills enclose between them marvellously beautiful valleys, through every one of which flows a lovely stream, so that it has been said there is one for every day in the year, or 365 in all. The interior is still covered with primeval forest, into which the infrequent clearings break from the coast, which is ringed with a road about 100 miles in length. One highway (suitable only for riding and not for driving) encircles the coast, three bridle paths cross the island at different points, and a new road (from Roseau to the Layou Flats) opens up a level country, which is being exploited for agricultural purposes. There are very few wheeled vehicles in Dominica, for the simple reason that there are no extensive highways for them to traverse. A Volcanic Island. That Dominica is a volcanic island can be seen at a glance, and that its mountain forms are the grandest, its forests the most magnificent to be seen almost anywhere, seems to be true. Proof of its volcanic character is afforded the most sceptical by its great, inter- mittent geyser, locally called the “Boiling Lake," from which arise fumes that are unmistakably sulphurous. Volcanic islands are generally rich ones (referring to their soils), DOMINICA 361 healthful, the death rate, so far as known, being only 16 per 1.000. All Europeans who are temperate in habit reach a good old age, seldom dying under eighty, and retaining their vigour to the last. The same may be said of the blacks; though they are more exposed to the vicissitudes of a crude mode of existence, and thus subject to its penalties. People and Towns. As in the other islands of the Car- ibbees, there is but one port at which steamers call and commercial pursuits are carried on. This is Roseau, capital of the island, with about 6,000 population. It is situated on the southeast (leeward) coast, and cannot boast a harbour; but in the northeast is a magnificent one, Prince Rupert's Bay, on which is located the town of Portsmouth, with some 2,000 inhabitants. But though Prince Rupert's is one of the finest natural harbours in the world, its shores are malarious, and so it does not realise the aspirations of the Dominicans, who believe it should become a coaling station for vast fleets. At the extreme southeast of the island, near a picturesque promontory known as Scott's Head, where are the remains of an old fort, lies the very interesting village of Soufrière, embosomed in a seacoast valley. The population of Do- minica, all told, will not exceed 30,000, and very few of these are white, probably not one per cent. But the few white people are progressive, and the town of Roseau has a social club, to which strangers are admitted by introduction of members, a library, golf links, and a tennis club. Over on the Windward coast, a long day's journey from Roseau on horseback, is an Indian reservation, containing the last remains of the Caribs, discovered here by Columbus in 1493. They then were cannibals, he said; but no acts of cannibalism are recorded, with proof, and their descendants are the “mildest mannered men that ever cut a throat”- provided they ever did so. There are some 300 Caribs dwell- ing on their reservation at Salybia, but many of them have so much negro blood in their veins that they are very dark, instead of light yellow, which is the prevailing tint of the pure-bloods. They live there quietly and peacefully, gaining a livelihood from fishing, gardening, working on the sugar plantations, and plaiting waterproof panniers, or baskets, famous throughout the islands. To reach the Carib 362 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Country, as their section is called, one must hire horses in Roseau, and also a guide, or at least a porter, who will carry his baggage, if not exceeding 60 pounds in weight, all the way on his head. His wage will be 2 shillings per day, and the hire of the horse will be 8 shillings, or 50 cents and $2, respectively. Dominica's Capital. Roseau, situated on an open road- stead, at the mouth of a river of the same name, is not an entrancing spectacle to view nor a comfortable town to dwell in. It is a mere collection of shanties of those un- couth dwellings of wood, with galvanised-iron roofs and rough stone foundations, in which the West Indians live, especially the black or coloured West Indians, without re- gard to appearances. A good fire, judiciously directed, would vastly improve the future appearance of Roseau; but as it exists to-day it is a blot upon one of the fairest pros- pects ever made for man to enjoy. If one could invade the island without first enduring the horrors of Roseau he would think himself dropped directly into the bosom of Paradise. Almost anywhere away from the coast beach one finds most entrancing pictures of tropical vegetation. One has been forewarned of what is in store for him by the views from shipboard, which are magnificent beyond words to describe. Says Mr. W. G. Palgrave, famous Oriental traveller: “In the wild grandeur of its towering mountains, some of which rise to near 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the majesty of its almost impenetrable forests, in the gorgeous- ness of its vegetation, the abruptness of its precipices, the calm of its lakes, the violence of its torrents, the sublimity of its waterfalls, it stands without a rival-not in the West Indies only, but (I should think) throughout the whole island catalogue of the Atlantic and Pacific combined.” With an impression of grandeur upon your mind, you land at the jetty of Roseau, and find yourself plunged into a settlement, apparently, of “Darkest Africa,” judging by the population in the streets. These streets, also, are cobbled with rough stones, with narrow sidewalks—where any exist- and over these the barefooted negroes shuffle, shuffle, with a strange rasping sound that gets upon the nerves. But there are buildings in Roseau besides the huts and shacks, DOMINICA 363 such as the cathedral, the Government House, set in a quite pretty garden, and the old fort, which dates from the century before the last. Roseau is extremely hot, summer and winter alike, yet her dwellers have not learned the art of building verandas, where one may sit in the open air and enjoy the freshness of afternoon and evening. The Island's Natural Beauties. The natural beauties of Dominica do not need a contrast like that offered by Roseau to bring out their dominant attractions. They would attract attention and enchain it anywhere; they would be called superlative among a host of rivals, whether in the Old World or the New. We must not, however, slight such few adornments as nature has thrust upon Roseau, though they are all of nature's making in some instances with the aid of man. There is the experimental garden, for instance, or, rather, the Botanical Station, where, under the super- vision of the Imperial Department of Agriculture, everything susceptible of cultivation in the islands is being brought to perfection. It is supplemental to the greater work of de- veloping the hitherto waste Crown lands and the regenera- tion of the abandoned sugar lands; for planters in need are supplied, as they are in St. Lucia, with the choicest plants and seeds at a minimum cost. Then there is Morne Bruce, a hill with vine-hung, precipi- tous sides, rising directly above the shabby town in the valley, which it spurns with its feet, almost set in the sea. The view from Morne Bruce is delectable, and may be obtained by climbing afoot or riding donkeyback, as one prefers. Investigations into the culture of limes—the fruit that saved the island from dire poverty some forty years ago—may be carried on right at the borders of Roseau. Stroll up the river road a mile or so and you are at once plunged into bowers of lime trees, cacaos, cocoa-palms, and plantains. Hot Springs and Waterfalls. Obtaining horses and guides at Roseau, one may make the first excursion to lovely Watton Waven, where there are hot sulphur springs, a place to picnic beneath the palms, and two of the most fascinating waterfalls ever seen in any clime. The larger is only about 150 feet in height, coming down over a precipice from the 364 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES plateau above; but it is its setting of tropical plants, more than its altitude, that compels the admiration of all beholders. A more delightful excursion still is that to the Mountain Lake, in the "High Woods,” 3,000 feet above sea level. All the way you may ride, save when you desire to alight for the purpose of plucking ferns and begonias, orchids and coffee blossoms, wild oranges and limes, bananas and plan- tains; for all are there in greatest profusion. Bamboos wave their feathery foliage above chasms hundreds of feet in depth; huge gommier trees send their great shafts upward 200 feet, hung with long lianas, draped with parasitic plants displaying flowers of every hue. From the Roseau River to the lake is a steady ascent, steep at times, and over a tor- tuous bridle trail, but always fascinating in its surprises. At the height of 1,000 feet above the sea you hear the liquid organ notes of the Siffleur Montagne, or Mountain Whistler, a shy and pretty bird, with garb of drab and terra-cotta, which utters its melodious notes only in the gloomy gorges, where it sits suspended on some liana or wild rope-vine, 500 feet, perhaps, above a foaming waterfall. Beautiful humming-birds dart across the trail, enlivening the gloom beneath the bamboos, and gleam like red and emerald stars within the forest. The atmosphere grows cooler every hundred yards of ascent, and by the time the lake is reached we are in the temperate zone-or, at least, we have the "temperate” temperature of about 70 degrees in the shade. Arrived at the lake, we find it a small body of water set amid hills that rise around it covered with palnis and tree ferns. · A shelter-cave is hollowed from the steep bank by the roadway, and here the horse, pony, or donkey is tethered, while a farther trip is made to look into the Carib Country. From near the Mountain Lake, passing beyond it eastward a few hundred yards, the "Rosalie View" is obtained, which embraces a magnificent sweep of tree-filled vales and tree- crowned hills to the Windward Coast, miles away. Dim in the distance the surf-whitened shore of Rosalie Bay may be discerned, and beyond outspread the vast Atlantic Ocean. In going from Roseau to Rosalie you cross the island from the Caribbean to the Atlantic shore, and the trip, though - - - 09 SOUSA BE 33 : 3 SOOS SEN Mountain Lake, Dominica SAN A Carib Girl, Dominica DOMINICA 365 somewhat rough, is very satisfying. There are no hotels on that coast, nor even boarding-houses, so one is com- pelled to share the hospitalities of the planters (who are becoming scarce) or of the common cultivators (whose huts hardly contain more than two rooms at most and whose kitchens are out of doors). What one would go to see in the Carib Country, of course, would be the Caribs them- selves. It is a long day's journey from the one coast to the other, or from Roseau, via Rosalie, to Salybia, the Carib Reservation. In order to save yourself the trouble of the journey you might set a servant on the watch for Caribs when they come to town-as they frequently do for their marketing. You will find the women rather comely, the men lithe and mus- cular, but not large of frame or fierce of visage. They are more attractive-looking than the black people and more cleanly. Their colour, if uncontaminated by negro blood, is a golden bronze or copper; their hands and feet are small, their hair long, coarse and black, their eyes jet black and sometimes obliquely cast. Their huts are made of thatch and wattle, just like those used by the blacks in country regions, so that it will not be necessary to make a trip to see them purposely. Still, these Caribs have a home- life of their own which is dissimilar to that of the imported Africans, and to the ethnologist they present attractive sub- jects for study. Strange Birds, Fish and Game. Dominica is not a "sportsman's paradise," though it really is a naturalist's, and especially the botanist's. Exploring in its forests, many years ago, the writer of this Guide found several new species of birds and many types which had never found their way to Europe or the United States. This was on account of the rugged and mountainous character of the vast forests, as well as their density. Let us note what exists here that the sportsman would accept as "game.” The range is narrow, including the wild pigeon, or ramier, the perdix- not partridges, but ground-doves; the aguti, the great wild parrot, the largest of its kind in the world; sometimes migra- tory plover, but rarely; wild pigs, and the manacou, or native opossum. Birds of brilliant plumage are rare, though 366 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES there are four species of humming-birds. Birds of song likewise, though the melodious trill of the “Mountain Whistler,” heard in the deep woods, will never be forgotten. The “dog-head snake" and the iguana afford some "sport," and then there is the “mountain chicken,” which is really a frog, the crapud, an inflated bullfrog of large dimensions, the Aesh of which is eaten, though repulsive to some, and not considered so delicate as iguana meat. In the streams are mountain mullet, which have been known to take an artificial Ay, and at their mouths, at certain seasons, de- licious "tri-tri," eels, and blackfish. The Boiling Lake. Dominica has many marvels of vege- tation, and at least one great curiosity in its giant saw-beetle, the Dynastes Hercules, 6 or 8 inches in length; but its one real and acknowledged "wonder” is the famed Boiling Lake. This “lake” is in reality a great geyser, occupying an ancient crater on the eastern slope of the Grand Soufrière Mountain. It is about 100 by 200 feet in extent, and is sometimes dry as a bone and again boiling with excessive fury and threat- ening to overflow its brim. It was discovered thirty years ago, or in 1877, and until that recent time was wholly unknown, though not unsuspected. This fact illustrates the savage wildness of Dominica's interior, which had forbidden exploration in an island so small that one might, if it were level, traverse its entire length in less than a day. The first photograph of this geyser was taken by the writer of these lines in 1878 and published in the London Graphic of that year or the next. However, it might have been better for several individuals if the Boiling Lake had never been discovered, for it caused the death of at least two within a few years after its discovery. One was scalded to death by slipping into its boiling flood and the other asphyxi- ated by sulphurous gases. During the eruptions in Martin- ique, in 1902, only 30 miles distant, the geyser was violently agitated and poured forth a roaring flood of boiling water, as well as choking gases; but hitherto there has been no disaster attendant upon earthquake or volcanic disturbances, though such may occur at any time. The trip to the Boiling Lake requires special preparation and the most trusty guides. Horses for the journey to Laudat, 368 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Principal products of the island are sugar, cacao, limes, oranges, vanilla, all the tropical fruits and vegetables, and rubber, recently introduced as a cultivation. The Botanic Station instructs in tropical agriculture, and furnishes plants to settlers. Crown Lands (120,000 acres) on sale at $2.50 per acre. Telegraphic cable to all points; telephone line in island, from Roseau to Portsmouth. A local steamer con- stantly cruises the Leeward coast, and once a week makes the circuit of the island. Means of Communication. With New York, the “Royal Mail” and “Quebec Line” steamers. With Bermuda, Hali- fax and Saint John, “Pickford and Black” (Canadian) steamers. With England, the "Royal Mail” and frequent "cargo” boats. Time to New York, eight days; to Halifax, twelve; Southampton, Eng., thirteen days. Fares: New York, $50; return, $90. Halifax, $50; return, $90; second- class, $35; return, $60. Attractions. The attractions of Dominica may be summed up as: magnificent mountain scenery, delightful climate, exuberant tropical vegetation, fine waterfalls, mountain lakes, settlement of Caribs, descended from the island's aborigines; rare birds and beetles, a wonderful “boiling lake,” sulphur springs, botanical gardens and park. Photographs of this beautiful island may be obtained of Mr. W. H. Fenton, the “Acme Studio," Roseau, Dominica. Tourists requiring views of Dominica, as well as of Martin- ique (the eruption at St. Pierre) and other islands, will do well to call on Mr. Fenton, whose workmanship is attested by the reproductions herewith from his photographs. Historical Sketch. Dominica is intimately connected with that famous second voyage made by Don Christopher Columbus in 1493. Approaching this beautiful island at dawn of November 3d, he named it Dominica, in honour of the day, which was the Sabbath, and as “Sunday Island" it has been known ever since. He did not land, but pro- ceeded on his voyage, though he was greatly impressed with its rugged beauty, and on his return to Spain illustrated its uneven surface to Queen Isabella by crumpling up a sheet of parchment in his hand and throwing it down before her. More than two hundred years passed before a settlement DOMINICA 369 was made, as the cannibal Caribs kept away the Spaniards. In 1627, with other of the “Caribby Islands," it was granted to the Earl of Carlisle (by the King of England, who had no right to it whatever); but the Caribs drove away the English, as well as the French, who later attempted to colonise there. In 1748, by the Treaty of Aix la Chapelle, it was agreed by both nations that Dominica should remain in possession of the Caribs as a "neutral” island; but in 1756, the French having established colonies there from Martinique, it was taken by the English, whose ownership was confirmed by the Peace of Paris, 1763. Money set aside for its colonisation was appropriated to provide a dowry for Queen Charlotte, it is said, and the colony did not thrive for many years thereafter. The island changed hands sev- eral times, being first English, then French, and it was not until near the beginning of the seventeenth century that it became permanently English. Traces of French occupancy are to-day stronger here than the ancient English, for not only nearly all the prominent features bear French names, but the speech of the common people is a French patois, which all must learn who have commercial intercourse with them. The decisive event in Dominica's history, as it was also in establishing British supremacy in the West Indies (and on all the seas of the world, in fact), was the great naval battle between Rodney and De Grasse, which took place off Dominica's Leeward coast in 1782. Sailing from the harbour of Port Royal (Fort de France), in Martinique, the French feet was overtaken by the British off Roseau, and there was fought, within sight of the town at times, one of the greatest naval battles of the world. It is a story worth the telling, but demands too great space in this Guide; and the reader is referred to Froude's English in the West Indies and to Ober's Our West Indian Neighbors for details of this terrible conflict. In brief, the French fleet was destroyed, and at least one of its shattered hulks drifted ashore at Dominica, near a place now known as Rodney's Rock. For more than a hundred years, or since 1805, the island has belonged to the English, though the French made efforts to dispossess them—desperate efforts, 370 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES during the Revolutionary period-and the old fort at Scott's Head, at the southern point of the island, was drenched in the blood of its defenders. After many vicissitudes, including an uprising of the Caribs and Maroons of the mountains in 1785; the depression caused by emancipation, 1834; ruin of the sugar industry, etc., Do- minica took a new lease of life when lime cultivation was introduced here by Dr. Imray, and latterly has advanced toward prosperity, under the leadership of Dr. Nicholls and the guidance of the Imperial Department of Agriculture. St. Pierre and Mont Pelée (Before the Eruption of 1902) The “ Obelisk” of Mont Pelée (After the Eruption) MARTINIQUE "Queen of the Caribbees.” Separated from Dominica by a sea-channel 20 miles in width, the mountains of Martinque may be seen from the former island as one sails south- wardly. Sometimes the seas are rough in these island channels, but it is not for long; as soon as the lee of a moun- tain is gained the waters grow smooth again. Such is the case sailing between these two islands, for scarcely has the trade wind drawn down through the broad opening than it is deflected by the towering peak of Montagne Pelée, whose summit is generally cloud-capped. Mont Pelée, as all the world knows now, is the evil genius of Martinique, the volcan that caused its desolation in the month of May, 1902, and in a moment of time obliterated the city of Saint Pierre, with 30,000 inhabitants. If Dominica contains the monarch of Caribbean mountains, Martinique certainly abounds in most queenly charms, albeit somewhat gloomy at first glance. Picture a mountain, or rather a congeries of mountains (as the author once wrote of this island), covered from base to summit-from encircling Caribbean Sea to various cloud- capped crests—with such a vegetation as only the tropics can display. Above the mass towers great and gloomy Mon- tagne Pelée, 4,400 feet in height, its broad flanks sweeping gracefully up from the sea. It is dark green in hue above, jagged in outline, cleft into ravines and black gorges, through which run numerous rivers, fed by the internal fountains of this great and terrible volcano. A towering, gloomy mountain, sinister, almost appalling—thus it impresses one, at first glance, and thus was its character borne out by the eruption of 1902. Fifty years and more it had remained inactive, quiescent, and only the gods knew when it would burst forth again; so the people on its flanks and near its base were taken unawares. There were grumblings and rumblings, to be sure, and clouds of ashes sometimes floated over the lowlands; but Saint Pierre was hardly disturbed by these tokens of activity, hardly interrupted its wonted 372 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES avocations; and as for its vocations, they went on as before. Saint Pierre before the Eruption. Imagine yourself sailing into a broad bay, 3 miles in length, with a town, or city, at its height, extremely picturesque in buildings of stone covered with earthen tiles, except where these had been ripped off by the latest hurricane and replaced with roofs of corrugated iron. It somewhat resembled, this town, the city of Algiers in its ensemble, though the hills came nearer to its structures of stone, which, indeed, were, some of them, built right into and against their vine-draped cliffs. The streets were narrow, the sidewalks still narrower, and adown the gutters rushed rapid streams from the hills, which at the same time took away all filth and impurities and cooled the heated atmosphere. These streets swarmed with a motley assem- blage of every hue of skin and colour of costume; but there was no crowding or jostling, for this vari-coloured populace was as thoroughly French as if all had been born in Paris, and as completely imbued with the national superficial polite- ness as if all were indeed Parisian. The coloured creoles of the female sex, hundreds of whom frequent the streets and market-places, were attired in quaint costumes of Jose- phine's time, as they express it, that creole wife of the first Napoleon, who was born in this island and went thence to France, there to find sorrow as well as fame. These gowns worn by the female folk are long and loosely flowing, but short-waisted, gathered up under the arms and shoulder- blades, à l'Imperatrice; but here the resemblance to Jose- phine's costume ends, for on their heads these females wore gorgeous turbans, red and green and yellow, adorned with gold brooches and jewelry galore. In their ears hung golden fasces, bunches of hollow cylinders, which dragged the lobes down heavily. On their heads many of them balanced great burdens, consisting of fruits or vegetables, the products of plantations and provision-grounds far distant on the Wind- ward side of the island. They may have come a distance of 20 miles, all the way carrying these great burdens, jauntily bearing themselves erect, swinging along with springy strides, out to the town and market in the morning and back again at night. MARTINIQUE 373 People of Martinique. What elements united to form the exquisite Fille de Couleur of Martinique the ethnologist seems never to have decided; but that there is a blending of blood that obtains in none other of the islands, resulting in a most charming creation, is admitted. Perhaps it was the French, the Carib and the octoroon, or the quadroon, that, united, formed the perfect embodiment of beauty once found here and still rarely to be discovered in the country districts. Whatever the cause, it seemed to be the im- pression that beautiful women were more abundant and finely formed men more frequently seen in Martinique than elsewhere. That was the impression made as one traversed the streets of Saint Pierre; and that the population was as joyous as it was comely also impressed the stranger in this tropical city. Happy, good-natured, wholesome to look upon, cleanly in habit, and frank in social intercourse seemed the Martinicans of Saint Pierre, one and all, white, coloured, and black. They seemed ever busy, yet always with abun- dant leisure, these gaiety-loving creoles, and the port of Saint Pierre was a favourite one with sailors of every clime. The tourist had not discovered Saint Pierre long previous to the seventies and eighties of the nineteenth century; but the sailors had known and loved it for many a decade. Its broad quays were always covered with great hogsheads of sugar and molasses, and before the curving shores were anchored the ships of every nationality, moored with anchors out ahead and cables fastened ashore. For there were few wharves at Saint Pierre, the depth of the water precluding them from general use; but the strand was paved almost its entire length with Belgian blocks. Former Attractions of Saint Pierre. Through every side street ran a stream from the hills, and if the traveller landed early in the morning, near the break of day, he would find these gutters in service for the washing of babies, poodles and dishes, while other streams led to fountains in the squares, or to gardens filled with rare plants. The city had a fine cathedral and bishop's resi- dence, a theatre which in the season was crowded to over- flowing, hotels, the best in the island, and stores, or magazins, filled with the finest products of Paris and France. The 374 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES morning was the busiest time; noon was almost silent, for the people were then taking their siestas; but after mid- afternoon all the people came out for a promenade along the Great Street overlooking the bay, out to the savane, or natural park, and perhaps to the jardin des plantes, near the river Roxelane, where bloomed the Aowers of a tropical paradise. Here were gathered in this garden of plants at the borders of Saint Pierre all the trees, shrubs, and flower- ing plants known to the tropics. Towering palmistes, with stems 100 feet in height, lined the allée, where gallant Martinicans used to meet to fight sham duels, à la Française; sago, .areca, and mountain palms were grouped together on little islands in the lake, where also was mirrored the grace- ful foliage of the traveller's tree, wild plantain, and screw- pine. In the centre of the Jardin was a little museum, con- taining the pressed plants and stuffed animals of the island, and at one end there dropped from the cliffs of the morne a foaming, lace-like waterfall into a rocky basin covered with ferns. A visit to the garden was instructive, as well as refreshing ; but one had to keep sharp watch lest there might be a lurking Fer-de-Lance in the undergrowth, to meet with which might mean death. Good roads led out from Saint Pierre to places of resort in the hills, such as Morne Rouge, 2,000 feet up, on the flank of Pelée, and across to the harbours of the Windward coast, while a small steamer connected with Fort de France, the island's capital. This city was the commercial emporium of the island, and here were gathered the wealthy, the cultured, and the fashionable, or made it frequent visits. The Fire-Blast from Pelée. Saint Pierre, as says the au- thor of Cruising in the Caribbees, was indeed a place to linger and to dream in, for it fascinated one, and the people who dwelt in this beautiful place had a soft and languorous beauty, as if they had inbreathed it from the climate and en- vironment. But into this scene of natural loveliness, French gaiety and abandon came sudden destruction, ruin and blight. On May 8, 1902, Mont Pelée, which had been inactive for fifty-one years, suddenly burst forth with scalding steam, liquid fire, stifling gas, and smothering dust. There had been warnings of disaster for several weeks, and a few of MARTINIQUE 375 the inhabitants had made their way over the mountains, or by boat to Fort de France. But the great majority re- mained. The priests were praying in the cathedral and churches, the authorities ordered the people to stay. ... So they hoped and waited, till in the twinkling of an eye the whole vast mass of boiling, blazing, suffocating mud and ashes burst from the rent and torn crater of Pelée, rising miles into the air, to fall the next instant, and for hours thereafter, in killing blisters and deadly fumes and choking lava-dust, on man and beast, orchards and gardens, houses and streets, wharves and beaches, boats in the harbour, vessels in the roadstead, and even upon ships far out at sea. Meanwhile the earth was rocking, roofs were whirled away by tempests, and as the affrighted crowds rushed down the steep streets to the bay the sea rose in an immense tidal wave and drowned them by thousands. In the gray dawn of that May morning there were 45,000 people living in Saint Pierre. Instead of sunrise came a rain of fire, amid which the whole population, shrieking, wailing, crazed, crammed the cathedral only to die; climbed the mountains and sought the forests, only to be burned or buried alive; Aed to the river, to find it a torrent of scalding water; and to the sea, only to meet a watery grave. At noon there was but one living individual in the ruined and desolate city of Saint Pierre, and he was a negro prisoner, burned, but not dead, in a subterranean dungeon, where he had been confined for crime. Every vessel in port was sunk at its moorings or burned to the water's edge in a few moments. The only ship that escaped from the accursed place was the British steamer Roddam, commanded by Captain E. W. Freeman. This ship had just made anchor, and her captain was conversing with her agent at Saint Pierre, who had come off in a boat, when, with a horrible roar, a burning mass from the volcano struck the steamer and enveloped her completely. Every- body and everything above deck was destroyed in an instant, and those who had sought shelter in the cabin or chart-room were terribly burned. Luckily for the survivors of her crew, the Roddam had steam up, and so was able to slip her cable; but even then some of the firemen and engineers down below 376 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES were badly burned. However, the captain, though blistered and blinded by the hot ashes and glowing cinders (for the ship had been struck by a great wall of flame), stuck to the helm, and after seven hours of agonising labour succeeded in getting into the harbour of Castries, St. Lucia. He had been obliged to steam past the less fortunate Roraima, which was a mass of flame, unable to assist her crew, whose screams rose above the howlings of the blasts. When the Roddam arrived at Castries ten of her crew were lying dead upon her deck, while the deck itself was covered with cinders. An Eye-witness of the Eruption. At least two of the eye- witnesses of the eruption gave intelligible accounts after recovering from their terrible experience. The first was Chief Officer Scott, of the “Quebec Line” steamer Roraima, which was destroyed at her moorings. "It was about 8 o'clock,” he said, “and I was standing on the main deck, expecting to hear the breakfast bell. I was looking toward Pelée, watching the vast column of smoke, and there was not the slightest warning of what was to occur. As I gazed, the entire top of the mountain was riven asunder. It seemed to roll into the air, and, still rolling, go plunging down the mountain-side in tremendous spirals of jet black smoke with red fire. It was as if a solid wall of fire and smoke had been belched forth. A great volume of molten matter was hurled through the air, boulders and stones of all sizes and shapes came hurtling down upon the terrified city, dealing a death that left no time for even a thought of escape or a whispered prayer. "I rushed for the protection of the forecastle, but fell on the way, and over me fell ten of the crew, every one of whom was killed instantly, and I only left alive. I owed my life to those ten dead men, who protected me from the flames; but one of my hands, which protruded, was badly burned, and I was injured internally by some of the burning gas, which I inhaled. The Roraima rolled to port and then suddenly to starboard, carrying away smokestacks and boats, the molten mass staving in the hatches and setting fire to the ship in several places, striking men, women, and children instantly dead. The saloon blazed up, and then came a rain of small stones. It was as if red, glowing coals Como NOU co Victor Hugo Street, St. Pierre (Before the Eruption) ASSO Ruins of Saint Pierre, Martinique MARTINIQUE 377 were being heaped upon our heads, followed by a shower of hot mud. The darkness of the harbour was appalling, the only light coming from the burning of the city and the blazing end of our own ship." Among other ships lost at that time was the cable ship Grappler, with all on board, fifty-four in number. The sea was covered with corpses, the shores strewn with wreckage; in the city of what was once Saint Pierre the walls were calcined by the terrible heat and had crumbled to fragments. All the streets were filled with débris, and thus the 30,000 unfortunate people so suddenly overwhelmed were buried deep in tombs constructed in an instant of time. This fact alone saved the locality from being swept by a pestilence; and over the desolate area visitors may now wander at will, save for the interposition of officers of the law, sent down from Fort de France to preserve the place from ravages by ghouls. How St. Pierre May Be Visited. It was a long time before Nature asserted her sway within the confines of this dead city, but now the tropical luxuriance of vine and creeper has done something to redeem the desolation. But the once beautiful city is as barren as Sahara, another Pompeii, over the ruins of which stroll visitors from foreign parts and natives searching for relatives of whom they were so suddenly bereft; but never again will it hear the hum of human life or feel the vitalising breath of commerce in the desolated port. Now and then a tourist steamer puts into the roadstead with a permit for a brief call, first obtained at Fort de France, and shoals of tourists swarm ashore in small boats, armed with cameras. There they remain a few hours, sadly inspecting the ruins, gleaning relics from the ashes, and then depart, lea ring the city to its dead. It presents the ghastly appearance of a vast cemetery, such as Lafcadio Hearn once described, and, with the prescience of the poet, said: “Some day there will be a great change in the city of St. Pierre. ... The green host will move down undpposed; creepers will prepare the way, dislocating the tombs, pulling away the checkered tiling; then will come the giants, rooting deeper, feeling for the dust of hearts, grop- ing among the bones; and all that Love has hidden away shall be restored to Nature, absorbed into the rich juices of MARTINIQUE 379 The Capital of Martinique. Fort de France (25,000 pop- ulation), now the chief city of Martinique, is built on a deep bay almost at the level of the sea. It is the seat of govern- ment, also a French naval station, and the residence of the governor, general secretary, and all chiefs of service. Founded in 1673, it was at first known as Fort Royal; but that name was changed when France became Republican. The situation of Fort de France, between two rivers, the Rivière Madame and Rivière Monsieur, in a deep and sheltered bay, gives it a strategic importance which the French have not undervalued, and in olden times it was the rendezvous of great fleets. From this bay sailed De Grasse, in May, 1782, to be defeated by Rodney, and to lose for his nation all the prestige it had acquired in centuries on the sea. The great fortress commanding the bay is also historic, and has played an important part in the encounters between French and English, when they were fighting for supremacy in the Caribbean Sea. It should be visited, and from its parapets one should look across the landlocked bay to planta- tion La Pagerie. There, near the town of Trois Ilets, the Empress Josephine was born. A fine statue of her stands in the savane, carved from pure white marble, which has been pronounced the loveliest creation of its kind in the West Indies. This statue will claim the attention of the visitor immediately a landing is made, on account of its beauty and its historic significance. The poise of the draped figure is superb, and the queenly head is turned in the direction of Trois Ilets. The youthful days of Josephine were passed at or near Trois Ilets and Fort Royal, and until she was fifteen she and her parents lived in the sugar-mill of the estate of La Pagerie, as the dwelling-house had been de- stroyed by a hurricane. The ruins of this building, the estate itself, and the church at Trois Ilets (where Josephine was baptized) are the chief, if not only, objects remaining identi- fied with the life of this famous woman, first wife of the First Napoleon.* The place may be reached by small boats, by a pleasant sail across Fort Royal Bay. There are no hotels there, and the journey should be made by daylight. The City of Fort de France is regularly built on level *See F. A. Ober's Life of the Empress Josephine. 380 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ground, with streets crossing at right angles, and contains, besides the objects already mentioned, a cathedral, a military hospital, a town-hall, a library, the bishop's palace, a colonial bank, a dry-dock, arsenal, and the workshops of the General Transatlantic Company, whose headquarters are here. It has suffered severely from earthquakes in the past, though the more recent catastrophe of Pelée did not affect it, except indirectly. To this point all the refugees fled from Saint Pierre and the devastated country, so that for a long time the entire district was congested. It is well known that every country nobly and quickly responded to the appeal for relief, and that the United States especially was prompt and generous, sending steamers with supplies at once. One of the first foreigners on the ground was Louis H. Aymé, then American consul at Guadeloupe, who promptly took charge of the relief forces, and, with his knowledge of French, his indefatigable activity, and vast resources, trained in our diplomatic service, rendered invaluable assistance to the stricken people and the authorities. He sent the first infor- mation of the catastrophe to Europe and the United States, and his personal narrative, though substantiated at every point, reads like a story of romance. The most attractive portion of Fort de France lies around the savane, or great central park, adorned with immense trees, chief among which are tamarinds and palms. The statue of Josephine, already referred to, was at one time surrounded by majestic palmistes, planted at the time the statue was erected. In the hills above the city are some thermal springs, the Fontaine Chaude, the waters of which possess curative properties, and are conducted to well-built bath-houses, where luxurious baths may be had for a small fee. Not far from this spot was at one time the place of exile of King Behanzin, the cruel potentate of Dahomey, whose victims were numbered by hundreds, and for whose crimes the French banished him to Martinique. There he was made a “lion" of, instead of being put in solitary con- finement, as he should have been, and was visited by thou- sands. Together with all his wives and suite of black fol- lowers he was returned to Africa in 1905, and there is said to have died, far from his home. Fort de France, Martinique well- it ma of th hills Pier muc å gi of, ern SAVO Statue of Josephine, Fort de France 3 MARTINIQUE 381 The landscape about Fort de France is very pleasing, and as well-built roads extend from the capital in every direction, it may be made the place of departure for various points of the interior and Windward coast country. Huge rounded hills come down to the sea between this place and Saint Pierre, where they are abruptly cut down, and look very much like immense Dutch cheeses, affording the geologist a glimpse of many different strata. By a complete system of post roads the entire island (save the devastated section, which covers about one-fourth the total area, in the north- ern part) is placed in communication with the capital. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the journeys over these roads, and were accommodations for the traveller as good as formerly, they would be recommended without reserve. As it is, if the explorer will take the chances of a hospitable reception at the plantations and in the humble cots of the peasant proprietors, he can do no better than hire a con- veyance at Fort de France and set out for the northern coast. Should he desire to venture so far as the summit of Pelée (a journey not without its dangers), the ascent can best be made from the bay of Lorraine, on the northeast coast. Pelée has changed its shape so often since the great eruption (at one time thrusting up a rock pinnacle 1,000 feet in height, which has since disappeared) that there is no tell- ing what will happen next, and one should venture up the cone with greatest caution. Guides may be had at Lorraine, and, in order to ascertain what is in store for one in the ascent, one should read the accounts of the various explorers who have made it since the eruption, such as those of Heil- prin and Kennan. Hotels of Martinique. The hotels of unfortunate Saint Pierre were celebrated throughout all the West Indies for their excellent tables and service; but they have passed away, overwhelmed in the eruption, and only at Fort de France can we find any hostelries for the entertainment of travellers. Of these, the “Family Hotel" of Madame Noël, Nos. 50 and 52 Rue Schoelcher, is probably the best. It is well equipped with electric lights and all improvements, and is a refined and homelike place. Rates: 10 francs ($2) per day. The “Hotel de l'Europe” has the same rates, and ac Lau 382 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES commodates fifty; the "Grand" has rooms for twenty at 8 francs per day; the “Hotel des Paqueboats," sixteen, at 10 francs; and the “Hotel des Familles” half that number, at 9 francs per day. There are also boarding-houses, where, as some of the residents here speak irreproachable French, it might be desirable to arrange for a winter's stay, if one should desire to cultivate that language. French, it should be said in passing, is the speech of the island, as well as of Guadeloupe; and though the natives generally speak an un- couth patois, in the towns there are many residents who preserve the language in its purity. The English islands are so near, and communication with them is so frequent, that bright little boys as interpreters may be found on almost every street and corner., Towns and Communes. There is but one city now, Fort de France, with about 25,000 inhabitants; but scattered along the shores of the island, south coast and north coast, Lee- ward and Windward, are many petit bourgs and communes, towns and parishes, which are quaint and interesting. The settlements once existing in the north end of the island, from Saint Pierre around to Basse Pointe, are practically extinct, and the country between the two shores was rendered desolate by Pelée to the extent of about one-fourth the island's area. In the northeast we still find the commune of Lorraine, in the canton of Basse Pointe, on the seashore, at the mouth of a river of the same name, noted for its rich fields of sugar-cane. It contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and from this place there is a road or trail to the summit of Pelée. Formerly the trails leading up from the south coast were taken by the traveller, but these are now impracticable. On the mid-north coast we find the beautiful town of Trinité, on a bay of the same name, protected by the Cara- velle Peninsula-a very important place of some 7,000 inhab- itants, with sugar factories, rum distilleries, etc. In the same canton are Marigot and Ste. Marie, the former a town of 2,000, with very rich land devoted to the culture of cane, the latter a large and wealthy commune on the seashore, with cane lands and a sugar factory, and with secondary cultures in vanilla, cacao, and native vegetables. Both these places are to the north of Trinité, south of which opens 384 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ruined city. The lands around are cultivated in sugar-cane; there are distilleries of rum in the place, but it depends largely upon its fisheries and the patronage of visitors to the ill-fated city only two miles away. Tradition states that it was at Carbet that Columbus landed on his fourth voyage, 1502, and also the first French settlers of the island, in 1635. Case Pilot, a commune of 3,000 people, in the canton of Mouillage, sits on the seashore between Carbet and the capital, and depends for subsistence upon its local fisheries. Annexed to it is the village of Belle Fontaine. Trois Ilets, in the canton of Diamant, lies on the bay of Fort de France, its southern shore, 8 kilometers distant from the capital. It is a commune of about 4,000 inhabitants. Its chief claim to fame consists in having been the birthplace of the Empress Josephine. She was born at La Pagerie, about 2 miles distant from the town, but within the commune. The church in which she was baptized still stands, and herein is a memorial tablet to her mother, Madame Rose Claire Duverger de Sanois. It is at the left of the altar, and on the right was a painting presented to the church by Napo- leon I. La Pagerie, 2 miles west of Trois Ilets, lies within a narrow vale, which was occupied by the father of Josephine as a sugar estate, and here may be seen the ruins of the house in which she was born and the old factory or sugar-house in which she lived as a child. The south coast of Martinique has a fascinating history, as well as interesting towns, but is seldom visited. Anse d'Arlets, directly south of Trois Ilets, is a commune of 3,000 people, on the seashore near the promontory of Salomon. The village is attractive, and on the hills are plantations of cacao, coffee, and cotton. There is a hot spring in the vicinity. Diamant, on the picturesque bay of the same name, lies east of Arlets, on a creek that makes out upon a beautiful strand. The canton contains about 3,000 inhabitants, and the soil produces cotton, cane, corn, and quassia. It is more than locally celebrated on account of an isolated rock about half a mile from shore, which during the wars of the eighteenth century was seized by an English admiral and fortified. It is nearly 600 feet in height, and its cliffs are nearly perpen- MARTINIQUE 385 dicular, but the British sailors secured a foothold on its summit, where they mounted several guns and stored away provisions. Then a crew was left to man the guns, which they turned against every Frenchman that ventured within range. Various attempts were made to dislodge them, but they gallantly held the position until their provisions failed, when they were compelled to surrender. This stronghold was christened "His Majesty's Ship-of-War Diamond Rock," and as such was entered on the British Admiralty lists. The coast road continues from Diamant easterly through the unhealthy town of Ste. Luce (2,000 inhabitants) to Rivière Pilote, in the south of the island, with 9,000 residents. It is about 2 miles from the coast, in a hollow which was probably the crater of a volcano, now extinct. The locality is picturesque, but insalubrious. Marin, a canton of 5,000 inhabitants, at the end of a deep but shallow bay, to the eastward of Rivière Pilote, has a healthful climate and fertile soil cultivated in cane, a sugar factory, and rum distillery. Ste. Anne is a village (3,000) in the extreme south of the island, near which are large but abandoned salt works and a valley of petrifactions. All the towns enumerated are reached by good post roads and connected with the capital by telegraph. But for the various disasters which the island has suffered-earthquakes, fires, and volcanic eruptions-it would be extremely flour- ishing, but at present the people are extremely dispirited. Aside from the convulsions of nature, they had an enemy to contend against in the poisonous Fer-de-Lance, a for- midable serpent which abounds in this island and in St. Lucia. As in the latter island, however, the East Indian mongoose, which was introduced several years ago, has reduced the number of these reptiles considerably, so that the deaths from its venom are not so numerous as formerly. Historical Sketch. Martinique was discovered by Co- lumbus in 1502, but was first colonised by the French in 1635. In common with other isles of the Caribbean chain, its ownership was fiercely contested by the British, who seized it in 1762, 1781, 1794, and 1809, but finally restored it to the French in 1814, by whom it has ever since been held. Thus the population is completely French in speech and manners, 386 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES though the whites have so steadily dwindled since the emanci- pation of the slaves that but few of them are left in an island which was formerly the centre of culture and refinement. The population, then, is mainly black and coloured, though it is still dense enough, not long ago having been estimated at 182,000, with an area at the outside of 380 square miles. Means of Communication. The “Quebec Line" de- spatches a ship every ten days from New York to Demerara and return, touching at all the islands, including Martinique. The “Royal Mail,” from New York and from Southampton, England, connects at Barbados with its intercolonial service through the islands regularly. Fares same as for Dominica and St. Lucia. An intercolonial auxiliary steamer leaves Fort de France once a month for Cayenne, as follows: Fort de France, 23d ; St. Lucia, 23d; Trinidad, 24th ; Demerara, 26th; Surinam, 27th; Cayenne, 28th. Return: Cayenne, 3d; Surinam, 4th; Demerara, 5th; Trinidad, 7th; Saint Lucia, 8th; Fort de France, 9th. Intercolonial boat between Fort de France and Port au Prince leaves Fort de France, 30th; Pointe à Pitre, ist; Basse Terre, ist; Saint Thomas, 2d; Ponce, Porto Rico, 4th ; Mayaguez, 4th ; Santo Domingo City, 6th; Jacmel, 7th ; Port au Prince, 9th. Return: Port au Prince, 9th; Petit Goave, ioth; Jérémie, ioth; Santiago de Cuba, IIth; Les Cayes, 12th; Jacmel, 14th ; Santo Domingo, 15th; Mayaguez, 16th ; Ponce, 17th ; Saint Thomas, 18th; Basse Terre, Guadeloupe, 20th; Pointe à Pitre, 2oth; Fort de France, 22d. Ste. Marie, Martinique Port of Castries, St. Lucia ST. LUCIA General Survey of the Island. The greatest length of St. Lucia, sometimes called Santa Lucia, is 27 miles, and its greatest breadth 14 miles. It has a superficial area of about 240 square miles, and is the largest as well as the most northerly of the group known as the Windward Islands, the government of which is vested in a governor whose head office is at Grenada, with a local administrator at St. Lucia. The island is volcanic, with high hills and moun- tains tossed into wild shapes, rugged and irregular, with deep and fertile valleys between their ridges and slopes. These hills are covered with a virgin forest, and valuable cabinet woods fill the valleys, through which run rapid and attractive streams. Bay and headland, cove and sandy beach, succeed one another all the way around St. Lucia's coast, with high cliffs standing out, and all with a background of forest. An irregular mountain chain runs through the centre of the island, sending spurs off right and left, the principal elevations being Morne Gimié and Piton Canaries, each a little over 3,000 feet in height; Morne Casteau, 2,940; Morne Cochon, 2,860; and the two pointed mountains, known as the Gros Piton, 2,620, and the Petit Piton, 2,460. These Pitons are by far the most impressive objects in the island. Situated in the southwestern part of the island, where they guard a beautiful bay, they look like verdant cones, or pyramids, tall and symmetrical, and being detached from the main ridge of mountains, appear as if thrust directly up from the floor of the sea. Not very far from them, and in the same region, is another natural curiosity, though not so peculiar to the island as the Pitons—the Soufrière, or Sulphur Mountain. Its crater is the feature that draws the visitor hither, for it is only 1,000 feet above the sea and very accessible by boat from Castries, the capital and chief port, to the town of Soufrière. Flora and Fauna. As a large portion of the island is 388 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES - - - - - uncultivated, great forests exist in the interior, covering hill slopes and filling vales, as already mentioned. There are more than sixty trees in St. Lucia valuable for their woods, forty to fifty fruits, chiefly tropical, and ten species of spices, with every variety of flower, growing wild and in cultivation (in the fields and forests, and shown in the Botanical Garden at Castries), that the tropics can produce. So much for its flora. The island fauna, however, is com- paratively insignificant, comprising some sixty or seventy species of birds, including three “hummers" and several mammals. These latter are the aguti, the armadillo, and perhaps a few wild hogs. The iguana is hunted for its flesh, which, though the reptile is repulsive enough in appearance, is white and palatable when well cooked. There is some hunting in the island, the chief game being wild pigeons, called ramiers, partridges or doves, and in the winter a few migrant plover. Climate and Snakes. St. Lucia has two enemies inimical to its well-being in its climate and its serpents. The climate is not, however, so deadly as has often been reported, for the death-rates of regiments quartered in unsanitary loca- tions should not be taken as criteria by which to judge the island's healthfulness. The mere fact that commercial men and officials (whom the writer has known or been cognisant of for nearly a generation) dwell the year through in a hot, low-lying spot like Castries—at least during business hours- and still survive, speaks well for the climate. The rank forest growth, the lagoons and swamps, generate miasmatic effluences, however, which it will behoove a stranger to avoid. The mean temperature is about 70 degrees in the cool season and 78 degrees for the year, with an occasional ex- cursion into the nineties; but the nights are nearly always cooled by refreshing breezes. If St. Lucia had nothing worse than its climate it might lay claim to be an Eden of natural delights; but alas! there is a serpent in this Eden. It is the deadly "Fer-de-Lance" (Craspedocephalus lanceolatus), a peculiarly repulsive rep- tile, which grows to a length of six or seven feet. As it is doubtful if there is any known cure for its bite, as it often bites without warning or provocation, and as it is abundant ST. LUCIA 389 in cane fields as well as forests, the natives are in constant terror of it. By the introduction of the East Indian mon- goose, however, it is being reduced in number, though far from being exterminated. The fact is that the mongoose likes other food besides the Fer-de-Lance, and raids the hen-roosts more frequently than it invades the serpents' dens. There is another snake resident in the island, a boa constrictor some 10 feet in length, called the Tête-Chien, which is harmless to human beings, but “death on" chickens. Its colour is black with yellow markings. The Couresse is a small black and white snake, also harmless; the Cribo is steel-blue with white belly, and an inveterate enemy of the Fer-de-Lance. Finally, to close this review of animated nature in the island, the numerous streams are said to contain mullet and mudfish, which afford good sport with rod and line, while fresh-water crayfish abound in all of them. The interior of the island contains about 40,000 acres of “Crown Lands,” open to settlement at 20 shillings an acre, on which are valuable woods, and which are capable of yielding large crops of native vegetables. They constitute an irregular ellipse, with the mountain ridge as its longi- tudinal axis, and lie at 2 or 3 miles distance from the shores. Owing to the bad reputation of the climate and the exist- ence of serpents in these woods, there is not such a demand for St. Lucia's wild lands as for those of Dominica, St. Vincent, Tobago, or Trinidad. Climatical and physical features are about the same in all these islands; but there are no noxious snakes in the others, except in Trinidad alone, where the poisonous coral snake is found. Agricultural Possibilities. St. Lucia has always been noted for its rich soil and abundant facilities for successful tropical agriculture, and so long ago as 1650 tobacco, ginger, and cotton were raised here, to be succeeded later by sugar- cane, coffee, and cacao. The first settlers and planters were French, and this accounts for all the names of bays, moun- tains, valleys, rivers, towns, etc., being French instead of English. The names have persisted, and also the speech is spoken by all the natives, who are more French than any- thing else in language, costume, and habitudes. The same 390 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES may be said of Grenada and Dominica—also English islands. Sugar-cane cultivation was introduced in 1765, and coffee some years later; but so late as 1840 there were only 100 sugar and coffee estates and but a sixteenth of the island under cultivation. Great improvements have been made of late in sugar production, and there are four great central factories, or usines, in the rich valleys of Mabouya, Roseau, Grand Cul de Sac, and Vieux-Fort. All are “fitted with the newest appliances for the manufacture of crystals," and the sugar exported annually amounts to more than $200,000. This island is peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of cacao, and the annual output is surpassing that of sugar, which is being abandoned for this more attractive culture. Other native products of the island are tropical fruits and vege- tables, fuel and cabinet woods. “A small trade is carried on between this island and Bar- bados by the export of fresh fruit and vegetables, of which St. Lucia produces large quantities of almost all known tropical species, and also fuel-wood. "Coffee and spices, for many years neglected, are now being paid more attention. "In 1886 a Botanic Station was established in the neighbour- hood of Castries, with the object of introducing and teaching the best methods of cultivation and preparation and distrib- uting among planters new economic plants. Some good work has been done in both directions, and the garden itself pre- sents a very creditable appearance. This garden has lately been taken over by the Imperial Department of Agriculture for the West Indies, which was started in 1898 on the recom- mendation of the Royal Commissioners sent out in 1896 to in- quire into the condition of the West Indies. This department has as its duties (1) to supervise and extend the work of the present botanic stations; (2) to start industrial schools for training boys in agricultural pursuits; (3) to encourage the theoretical (and to some extent the practical) teaching of agriculture in elementary schools; (4) to promote the teaching of scientific agriculture in colleges and schools; (5) to organise horticultural shows and exhibitions of im- Iements and machinery suitable for cultivating and curing ST. LUCIA 391 tropical products; and (6) to prepare bulletins, leaflets and other literature on subjects suitable for cultivation in the West Indies."* Towns and Harbours. Castries, the capital of St. Lucia, lies at the head of a very deep harbour, or bay, of the same name, on the northwest coast of the island. It is level and regularly laid out, with wide, straight streets, and is built chiefly on land reclaimed from the harbour. This fact, to- gether with another notorious one—that it is in a locality well adapted for the propagation of fevers—has given the island a reputation for unhealthfulness which it does not deserve, for there are many places noted for their salubrity. The 12,000 inhabitants of Castries live in some 1,200 build- ings, which on the whole are not pretentious architecturally and scarcely worthy of mention. The chief asset of Castries is its magnificent harbour, which is one of the safest and most commodious in the islands. Though its entrance is only about a third of a mile across, it runs inland for nearly a mile and a half, with an average width of three-quarters of a mile, and is almost entirely hill-surrounded. It is also the most completely fortified of any harbour outside the Bermudas, for it was long ago chosen as a British naval station for coaling and stores, and not only the Vigie head- land north of the harbour entrance is fortified, but the Cocoanuts headland to the south, and especially the ridge above the town. The best residences are to be found on Morne Fortune and the encircling hills, for the lowlands are unsafe for white people to live in. In fact, they cannot live there at all at night, and after dark the town is as lonesome as a cemetery—to which, in truth, it has oft been likened. Morne Fortuné is a hill 800 feet in height, traversed by good roads and terraced, and here most of the troops are quartered. Here, on a wide terrace, about a mile from town, is the fine Government House, situated 430 feet above the sea, and com- manding an extensive prospect. Up here the temperature is much cooler than below, of course, and the evening breezes render the situation delightful, while in the town below the heat is almost unendurable. *St. Lucia Handbook. 392 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES But for the glorious harbour there would be no Castries, for it is merely a coaling station, but one of the best of its kind in all the world. Steamships of 26 feet draught can go right up to the wharf and receive their coal, which has been supplied in emergencies at the rate of 140 tons an hour. And it is not delivered by means of machinery, either, but by negro women, who transport it in baskets carried on their heads, as at St. Thomas and some other islands. Water, too, pure and sweet, is supplied from the streams that come down from the mountains, while pro- visions, salt and fresh, can be secured here in any quantity. Thus it is a favourite port of call for men-of-war and merchant steamers; though at night, or toward dawn in the morning, when the city is being cleansed of its impurities, the odours that come from shore are not suggestive of spicy gales from groves of nutmeg and cinnamon ! The town itself, though hot and sometimes evil-smelling, has an enterprising population, good stores, a library, three weekly publications, several fine churches, a good market- place well supplied with native products, and a very attractive botanical garden. Plants and flowers from this garden are for sale, and the entire list of economic tropical plants suit- able for growing in the island is supplied to horticulturists at extremely low prices. There is the customary “ice-house" in town, where “hard and soft drinks” can be obtained, and several hotels and boarding-houses. For transferring passengers from ships in the harbour to the wharves, and vice versa, the legal tariff for boatmen is a shilling each, and the same for luggage, not exceeding 100 pounds. Local Steamers, Leeward Coast. Two small steamers constitute the coast-line service between Castries and Vieux- Fort, at the extreme south end of the island, on the Lee- ward shore. They leave Castries at 1 P.M., and are due at Vieux-Fort at 5.30 P.M., touching en route at the Soufrière (fare 3 shillings), Choiseul (45. 6d.), Laborie (5s. 6d.), Vieux-Fort (6 shillings). Second-class passage half first- class fares; children under twelve, also half fare. This trip affords delightful views, including the lofty Mornes, smiling valleys, sparkling streams (tropic vegeta- ST. LUCIA 393 tion clothing hill and vale), the interesting villages, sugar estates, and above all, the glorious Pitons. Fifteen miles down the coast is the most interesting of the island ports, that of Soufrière, with a population of about 2,000, mostly blacks. It lies at the head of a deep bay, and is named after the contiguous volcano, the Soufrière, the crater of which may be reached by a twenty-minutes' drive from the town. This crater is about 1,000 feet above the sea, and is encrusted over with a thin layer of sulphur, alum, cinders, and other volcanic matter, while in its midst rise dense clouds of steam from the solfataras, which are in a state of perpetual ebullition. One must be careful how he walks about the crater, for the thin crust sometimes breaks through, and limbs have been terribly scalded. There used to be an old negro here, who was shown as an object-lesson of what the Soufrière could do to the unwary, for he had a wooden leg, which replaced a natural member that he lost through carelessness. What the Soufrière is now, we are told, that it was hundreds of years ago, and will be hun- dreds of years hence: a basin of geysers intermittently active, pouring forth vapour and boiling water, as well as sulphurous fumes. Of course, there are the usual sulphur baths, the waters of which are efficacious in the curing of rheumatism and scrofulous affections. These lie a little nearer the town, in an eastern direction, where may be seen the ruins of an establishment erected by the French, in 1784. The region abounds in springs of mineral water, one of which, yet nearer to the town, is said to possess waters comparing fa- vourably with those of Aix-le-Bains. The owner has erected baths, opened a carriage road to the spot, and erected here a nice little cottage, which can be rented on moderate terms. All information necessary to the visitor to the Soufrière may be obtained of the natives, who swarm to shore at the ar- rival of the steamer, and proffer their services. It is likely that the visitor will be more attracted by the wonderful Pitons than by the Soufrière, for one of them ‘rises near the entrance to the bay. These Pitons, or Pointed Mountains, have been compared to "dragons' teeth,” to nat- ural pyramids, and by irreverent sailors 'to donkeys' ears. There are two of them, the Great and the Little Piton, both 394 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES beautiful, being pyramidal, or rather conical, peaks, of sub- merged mountains which rise, as already stated, to the heights of 2,460 and 2,620 feet, respectively, above the level of the sea. If for no other reason than to view the Pitons at close range, the coast trip should by all means be taken, since they are absolutely unique in conformation, and beauti- ful beyond description. Tradition tells us that many at- tempts have been made to ascend them, but without success, the most noteworthy being that of three British sailors, two of whom were killed in the ascent by the deadly Fer-de- Lances, while the third expired the moment he reached the summit of the Petit Piton, and shouted victory. A hardy islander, however, Mr. Lompré, successfully ascended the Petit Piton in 1878, and was followed not long after by Chief Justice Carrington and a party, who accomplished the feat without accident. . Beyond Soufrière is the picturesque village of Choiseul, which, with fertile soil and healthful climate, supplies the market of Castries with fruits and vegetables. Laborie, next beyond, formerly known as Isle of Turtles, lies on an open roadstead surrounded by reefs. It has about double the population of Choiseul, or 800 inhabitants, and is the last stopping-place of the local steanier on this coast. Vieux- Fort has just double the population of Laborie. It takes its name from the first fort erected here, in the early part of the seventeenth century, either by the French or the Dutch, which commands, as it commanded then, a tract of level, fertile country highly favourable to the cultivation of sugar- cane. One of the large usines, or sugar factories, is located here; and but for its isolation, the Old Fort would be a very flourishing place, as indeed it is attractive and historically interesting. While the various villages on the East Coast are interesting, such as Micoud and Dennery, they face the boiling surfs of the Atlantic; and are all but inaccessible to the average tour- ist. Many miles of good roads traverse the island, however, and little journeys may be made to various places, through the hill and forest country, with pleasure and with profit. Some Historical Events. As one of the largest and most f rtile of the Caribbees, this island early attracted the atten- ST. LUCIA 395 tion of the French and English, after they had dared the Spaniards and broken into the Caribbean Sea, which, with the Pope's assistance, the “Dons” would fain have made a mare clausum. It is supposed to have been discovered by Columbus, on his fourth voyage in 1502, but was not settled for more than a century after. In 1605 the English vessel Olive Blossom arrived here with sixty-seven passengers, which number was reduced by the hostile cannibals living here to less than twenty, within a month, and the survivors fled to South America. Thirty years later the French made an attempt at settlement, but not long after were routed by the English under Lord Willoughby, who also felt the Carib's heavy hand for their intrusion. Having attempted to make slaves of these fierce islanders, the English were set upon by them, and such as were not massacred were driven out, it is said, by the fumes of red pepper. Then the French came again, after whom, “hot-foot,” came the English; and thus for a hundred years and more the island was the ob- ject of contention. During two hundred years, in truth, the two nations strove for supremacy, not only in the island, but on the surrounding seas; and this was decided, probably forever, by the famous victory achieved by Rodney over De Grasse, on April 12, 1782. On a hill in Pigeon Island, lying near the northeast shore of Saint Lucia, off the great bay of Gros Ilet (once the rendezvous of men-of-war fleets) are the remains of old Fort Rodney, whence the British admiral of that name watched the French fleet over in the bay of Fort Royal, now Fort de France. As soon as he saw it in motion, standing out for open sea, he gave chase with his ships, with the result that the French were brought to battle near Dominica, and the great victory was won which settled for all time the sovereignty of the southern West Indies. Conflicts in the island were of frequent occurrence, how- ever, for several years thereafter, and the slopes of the Vigie and Morne Fortuné, above Castries, have been drenched in the blood of French and Englishmen, by thou- sands slain, in the endeavour to hold for their respective nations this strategic position in the Caribbees. The French were finally defeated, driven from the island, and St. Lucia 396 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES was definitely given to England by treaty in 1814, ever since remaining an English possession. The population now numbers about 50,000, and is increasing rapidly, though a majority of the births (black and coloured) are illegitimate. In St. Lucia, as in other English islands of the West In- dies, the currency is in "pounds, shillings and pence”; but the more sensible decimal system is in greater favour, and American gold and banknotes are in current circulation. Means of Communication and Rates of Fare. Same as Dominica's and those of the English islands of the Carib- bees generally. The “Royal Mail,” “Quebec" and "Inter- colonial" boats all call in at Castries, where coaling facilities are unsurpassed. SAINT VINCENT General Description. The island of St. Vincent is dis- tant from Saint Lucia, the nearest land to the northward, 21 miles and from Barbados, nearest eastward, 96 miles. It is only 18 miles long by it wide, yet presents a combination of attractive features difficult to surpass in any country of equal area on the globe. Its own area is only 140 square miles, a goodly portion of which consists of hills and mountains, ravines, gullies, rivers, streams of lesser flow, and precipitous cliffs. Seen from the sea, as the steamer approaches its shores, it appears small enough to be circumnavigated in an hour of vigorous rowing, it is so clean-cut, like an emerald in outline and beauty. That it is of volcanic formation, the reader does not need to be told, recalling the terrible erup- tion' of May, 1902, when its Soufrière exploded, with a force that devastated one-third the island, and killed more than 2,000 human beings. Kingstown, the Capital. It has but one port at which the steamers call, that of Kingstown, on its leeward coast; a clean, tropical-appearing, self-respecting little city of about 5,000 inhabitants. It lies behind a curving beach of surf- washed sands, with red-tiled roofs gleaming brightly beneath groves of palms, through which a church spire pierces here and there. Upon the northern headland of the bay, spacious enough to float a navy within its confines, stands one of those picturesque forts which the French and the English were so fond of building something more than a century ago. It is now used as a signal station, but the view out- spread beneath its ruined walls is just as entrancing as it was when red-coated soldiers were posted here to watch the movements of French fleets that scoured the leeward shores of all the Caribbees. Neither has the town it guarded changed much in the century past, for though some stone structures have been erected since emancipation time, say sixty years ago, Kingstown depends for attractions upon its surroundings, and not upon its architecture. 398 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Beautiful valleys open out from shore, running up between the hills, so that Kingstown and its bay are half enclosed by ranges of hills which rise at intervals to the height of moun- tains. They form an amphitheatre, verdant and palm- sprinkled, above which towers Morne St. Andrew, and at a lesser elevation are the Dorsetshire Heights, crested by an ancient fort with a history. This old fort has long been dismantled, its cannon disposed of by enterprising spec- ulators, either to the North or the South, during the civil war between the States; but time was when the fierce Caribs, swarming in from the Windward country of St. Vincent, in the latter part of the eighteenth century, made themselves masters of fort and heights. They were dislodged only after desperate fighting, and eventually were defeated, their chief gibbeted in chains, and the bulk of the savage horde sent to Ruatan Island, coast of Honduras. But, of course, the visitor to St. Vincent is not so much interested in its history as in its accommodations for the traveller. In a few words—to be truthful and brief-they are scant. If a good hotel exists in Kingstown, it has man- aged to conceal itself successfully from our search, though there are a few boarding-houses which nobly stand the tourist in good stead. Let your wants be known, however, to the hospitable planters of the island (of which class a few still exist who have survived the disasters of earthquakes, vol- canic eruptions and scant sugar crops) and they will be sup- plied at once. More than supplied, in truth, for no one has yet gauged the depth and breadth of West Indian hospitality who has not dwelt awhile beneath the roof of a “great house" on the island of St. Vincent. Few are left, alas! of those great-hearted plantation managers, mainly of Scotch descent, who were wont to extend the hand of hospitality to every stranger arriving at the port of Kingstown. Their horses were always ready for him to mount, their servants waiting to guide and attend him to the estate, where a wel- come awaited such as made the heart expand with gratitude. A Garden of Delights. A mile distant from the town, with a good road running thither, is a famed garden for the acclimatisation of tropical exotics, which was started so long ago as 1763. At the base of the hills, which set their feet SAINT VINCENT 399 within the borders of this garden, stands the residence of the Administrator of the island, Government House, where the visitor with proper credentials is never turned away. It nestles among and overlooks extensive grounds planted with teak, mahogany, almond, screw-pines, nutmeg, clove, cin- namon, pimento, areca palms, bread-fruit, palmistes, and great cannon-ball trees. Mangoes, also oranges, lemons, limes; in fact, every variety of fruit and flower-bearing tree that is to be found in the tropics, whether in the western or eastern hemisphere, is at home here and flourishing. This garden was the first of its kind to be established in America, it is said, for the propagation of plants “useful in medicine and profitable as articles of commerce, and where nurseries of the valuable productions of Asia and other distant parts might be formed for the benefit of his Majesty's colonies.” Its history is interwoven with that of tropical horticulture in America to a surprising extent. In 1793, for instance, Captain Bligh (of the Bounty mutiny fame) brought here numerous plants of the bread-fruit from the South Pacific. The first cloves came from Martinique in 1787, the first nutmegs from Cayenne, in 1809, and all have flourished exceedingly, especially the bread-fruit, which now grows wild in every part of the island. Many of the best exotics were transferred to Trinidad in 1815, and the garden allowed to fall into decay; but it was revived again in 1890, and placed in charge of a skilled curator from Kew. Other Towns and Settlements. While there is no con- tinuous road quite around the island, as in St. Kitts and Barbados, there are nearly 100 miles of highways more or less passable, which for the most part run close to the sea- coast, and afford views of great variety. Lateral roads and trails run from these up into the hills and mountains, and an old Indian path crosses the Soufrière, running around the brim of the crater, from one coast to the other. One niay drive along the Windward, or eastern, coast, nearly to the north end of the island; but along the Leeward, or western, the travel is mainly by water. Large four- and six-pared boats ply down the Leeward shore daily, except on Sundays, between Kingstown and the villages and plantations to the northward. They are open, but safe and commodious, while SAINT VINCENT 401 cate culture entirely its own. All are volcanic, however, and possess the “fatal gift of beauty”; that is, they owe that beauty to the volcanic character of surface and soils. The central backbone of the island is a mountain ridge, mainly forest-covered, with peaks of varying height. Morne St. Andrew, immediately above the capital, is 2,500 feet; Morne Agarou, in the centre, is the highest, 4,000 feet; and before the last eruption the Soufrière, or Volcano, was nearly of the same altitude. Whatever its size, as compared with its brother mountains, the Soufrière is the most conspicuous and famous, on account of the eruptions it has sent forth, two destructive outbursts having occurred within the last hundred years. The writer of this Guide visited the Soufrière in 1878, and at that time wrote of it as the last of the West Indian volcanoes from which the nineteenth cen- tury had witnessed destructive eruptions—as it was. In the year 1812 it burst upon the island with terrific force, covered it with cinders and scoriæ, destroyed many lives, and ruined several estates. This eruption lasted three days, beginning on that day of fatality in 1812, when Caracas was destroyed, and 10,000 people perished. It was recorded of this eruption, as an astonishing fact, that ashes or pulverised pumice from this volcano descended in clouds upon the island of Barba- dos, nearly 100 miles distant, and to windward. This oc- curred notwithstanding that the trade-winds from the north- east were blowing against the projected debris from the volcano with all their force, showing the terrific nature of the explosion. When the writer first visited the Soufrière in 1878, it con- tained two craters, which had been in a state of quiescence for more than sixty years. One of them held a little lake in its crater, 1,200 feet below the crater-brim, which itself was about 3,000 feet above the sea. A narrow, knife-like ridge separated the two craters, and around them ran the trail leading from one shore of the island to the other. For more than sixty years the Indians and negroes had traversed this trail without giving thought to the terrible forces that still lurked within the quiescent volcano, and when the writer established his camp in a cave on the crater-brim (where he staid for nearly a week, studying the phenomena Ruined Sugar Estate (“Lot 14"), St. Vincent SAINT VINCENT 403 ferns, plantains and bananas—all were stripped and burned in a twinkling. Behind the horrible stream, smoking and flaming, roaring and rumbling, lay naught but ruined walls of “great houses” and sugar works, gardens but a short time before blossoming with flowers enclosed by and buried deep beneath the hideous river of mud and lava. The stream plunged into the sea, and hissing clouds of steam rose skyward, above which flamed and bellowed the volcano. The coast at this point seemed to sink into the sea, and at present boats may sail across the sites of villages and planta- tions which, before the eruption 20 feet above sea level, are now said to be 40 feet beneath it. Balls of fire, clouds of steam, and incessant showers of stones were spouted from the volcano, and so great was the force with which the stones were ejected, that they fell upon the roofs of Kings- town and villages at the southern end of the island. The entire Leeward coast was continually bombarded with peb- bles as large as cocoanuts; the cool waters of the rivers turned hot, and ran hissing and steaming to the sea. The loss of life on the Leeward coast, where the destructive activity was first displayed, was not so great as on the Wind- ward, and up to Wednesday, May 7th, the residents of Georgetown and the “Carib Country," to the north of this village, were inclined to regard the eruption with indiffer- ence. Suddenly, however, the infernal forces were turned upon them full blast. Torrents of mud, pebbles, and even stones more than a foot in diameter fell upon the doomed country contiguous to and north of Georgetown, which was enveloped in a dense cloud of steam and smoke, through which played incessant flashes of lightning. In a short time nearly 2,000 people were slain or wounded, many of them having been struck by lightning, others crushed by huge stones, others scalded by steam, and yet others buried be- neath the lava flood. In one instance a house full of people, who had gathered together for protection, was destroyed in a moment; others fell beneath the discharge of rocks and stones, as though cut down by musketry-fire. Half a dozen villages and a great number of estates were entirely obliterated. The Carib settlement at Sandy Bay, the regro village of Overland, the settlement at Morne Ronde, 404 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES village of Wallibou, that of Waterloo, Orange Hill, Tourama, Fancy, and "Lot Fourteen” were utterly de- stroyed. Where had been prosperous sugar estates, arrow- root plantations, "provision grounds,” and smiling settle- ments, only arid wastes of mud and scoriæ can now be found. One of the most noteworthy of the volcanic phenomena is to be found in the several "dry rivers,” on either coast of the island, or the beds of streams which have been overwhelmed and dried up by fiery floods from the Soufrière. One of these is Wallibou, on the northeast or Leeward coast, and the other the “Dry River” of the Wind- ward district. Both were the channels of overflow in the 1812 eruption, and again in that of 1902. During both eruptions the channels of these streams were filled and choked with scoriæ, rocks and gravel, underneath which the water dis- appears as it nears the coast and becomes subterranean. In the season of rains, however, water from the mountains comes down these channels in great volume, in huge waves, "like the 'bore of a tideway,” carrying everything before it. How to Reach the Volcanic District. To reach the “Leeward” section devastated by the eruption of the Soufrière, and also to ascend the volcano itself, it is best to go first to the town of Chateau Belaire by boat, where guides may be obtained for the journey beyond. It is about 6 miles from this town to Richmond great house (which was en- tirely destroyed, with a loss of eight persons who had taken shelter there), and a little farther to Wallibou, whence runs the trail to the crater-brim. The ascent of the Soufrière has been successfully and safely made many times since the eruption, and with ordinary precautions can be easily ef- fected. One may also go by boat direct to Richmond, in- stead of to Chateau Belaire; though the chances are better at the latter place for obtaining horses, provisions for the trip, and guides. For a description of this region, now so desolate, but formerly one of the beauty-spots of earth, the reader is directed to the author's Camps in the Caribbees and his West Indian Neighbors, the latter published by James Pott & Company, New York, 1903. The "Windward" district is accessible by a good highway, SAINT VINCENT 405 though not all the streams are bridged, and one should be careful, especially in the rainy, or summer, season, about crossing the “Dry River,” and not attempt it when it is in flood. Georgetown bounds the devastated district on the south, as Chateau Belaire does the same region on the “Lee- ward" coast. Both depend for their very existence, almost, upon the adjacent sugar-cane estates, which are numerous enough, but somewhat out of cultivation. Most of them are owned by a single firm, or individual, and with a letter from the estates agent in Kingstown to the various managers resident, one may pass almost around the island with ease. Caribs of St. Vincent. The greatest sufferers from the eruption were the Caribs, or Indians descended from the aboriginal inhabitants of St. Vincent, and who resided in two villages, that of Morne Ronde on the Leeward coast, and Sandy Bay, on the Windward. The ancestors of the "yel- low,” or true, Caribs were discovered here by the original settlers and allowed to remain, so long as they gave them no trouble; but when the Indians found that the Europeans were appropriating all their fertile lands, without returning them any equivalent at all, they took to the warpath. In short, they continued hostile for a long period, the crucial battle between the races having been fought in the last decade of the eighteenth century. Sir Ralph Abercromby, the same British admiral who took Trinidad away from the Spaniards the year following, in 1796 took the field with 4,000 men, and captured the bulk of the Caribs, after a bloody engagement. Five thousand of them were taken across the channel to the little island of Baliceaux, whence they were deported to the island of Ruatan, coast of Honduras. There their descend- ants reside to-day; but the most wary, bravest and sagacious of the Caribs did not surrender to Abercromby. They re- treated to their forest fastnesses, where they lived as best they could, subsisting upon the spoils of the chase, wild fruits and vegetables, and such provisions as the negroes took them, for several years. At last they had become so formidable, and so persistently evaded the soldiers sent in search of them, that a treaty was made, by which they were given the occupancy of 230 acres of their own lands at Morne Ronde, "which they were neither to alienate nor cul- 406 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES tivate in sugar," and there they settled down in peace. The lands granted them were not very fertile, so most of the Indians swarmed over to the Windward side and settled about Sandy Bay, where the soil was richer, but where their tenure was only that of the squatter. But the fishing and hunting were better, and here they remained, while Morne Ronde, the original grant of occupancy, was left to the “Black Caribs," or people who are more nearly related to the African than the Indian. The Yellow Caribs of Sandy Bay were under a chief, or "headman,” named Henry Mor- gan, with whom the writer once lived, when hunting birds in the island. A more hospitable people it would be hard to find, and as boatmen, fishermen and cultivators, they are un- surpassed. They gained most of their living from the ocean, which on the Windward coast is very rough, and thus they became the most expert boatmen on the island, much sought after by the planters in the shipping season, when great hogsheads of sugar are taken from shore to the droghers or coasting vessels. These Caribs had their “provision grounds,” containing: crops of arrowroot, tanier, yams, cassava, sweet potatoes, etc., and all were expert basket makers as well as watermen. The women and children, as well as the old men unfit for service at sea, wove those famous water-tight baskets out of reeds and wild plantain leaves, which are sold in nests of half a dozen, and used as trunks and panniers by all the common classes throughout the islands. The children are perfect amphibians, as much at home in the water as on land. Though the Caribs make canoes, by hollowing out great trees, after the manner of their an- cestors, or neatly joining together slabs of gommier or ceiba wood, the boys are not allowed to use these precious craft, but are compelled to make shift with rude rafts. Lashing together two great logs, found drifting in the surf along the coast, they sit astride, with a pole to balance them, and push out into the roughest seas without any fear whatever. Sometimes these “aquatic rocking-horses” are toppled over by huge waves, and then they merely dive beneath them and set astride again, going on with their fishing as if nothing had happened. SAINT VINCENT 407 Survivors of the Great Disaster. Most of the sufferers, as already stated, lived at the north end of the island, and were mainly Caribs and related negroes. There were scarcely 200 Indians of unmixed blood before the eruption, and now but a handful survives, deprived of lands, of houses, and personal effects, dependent upon the bounty of the Government. Besides the 2,000 killed, maimed and wounded, there were hundreds of refugees who lost everything. For- tunately for the island, shiploads of provisions were sent here both from England and from the United States, and all immediate wants were supplied. But at first there was great confusion and unavoidable delay, so that many suffered greatly, even after reaching places of safety, and some others perished. In order to provide for the refugees, the authori- ties purchased large tracts of land at Camden and Rutland Vale, not far from the capital, and here erected hundreds of cottages, though at first they were placed in large tents in the fields and public squares. Crown Lands and Resources. The future of St. Vin- cent, notwithstanding its natural resources and attractive scenery, which latter alone should draw thither tourists by thousands, does not appear promising. The white population has steadily dwindled for years, and the last great upheaval has discouraged the few who remained. Comparatively few English settlers are left on the island, and of the European stock many are Portuguese, who are industrious, but non- progressive, being mostly labourers and small shop keepers. There are a few coolies, and many negroes, with their re- lated coloured stock. The seat of government is no longer here, but in Grenada, and the beautiful Government House, with its facilities for a pleasurable existence amid delightful surroundings, is rarely occupied by the governor himself. Consequently, there is no initiative, no actual head, no ani- mation, and the people lead a listless, ambitionless existence, more absorbed in recollection of the past than in plans for the future.. While it is difficult to provide for a people so suddenly torn from their homes as were the Indians and negroes dis- possessed by the Soufrière, there are resources enough in the island to more than satisfy a population twice as large 408 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES as now lives in St. Vincent. Many of the sugar plantations have been abandoned (and they once formed a fertile belt almost quite around the island), but their abandonment has been more the result of apathy and indifference than of dis- couragement. While sugar is no longer the profitable crop it once was, still it can be produced at a living wage for the labourer and small return for the planter, especially if the latter be wealthy beyond the need of labour—as is the case with the owners of these plantations. The chief cultivation here is arrowroot, which can be carried on by humble labourers as well as by rich landowners. Near every stream in the island one may find the rude arrowroot mills, made by the natives themselves, where they grind the products of their “provision grounds.” But the price of arrowroot has fallen also, and yields scarcely a larger profit than sugar. With direct steam communication with the United States and Canada, and some capital applied to the waste lands (thousands of acres of which may be had almost for the asking), there is no reason why beautiful St. Vincent should not rise from her ashes and become once more a place of wealth and beauty. There is a large area of the so-called Crown lands, chiefly among the hills and mountains, avail- able for the settler who can endure isolation and loneliness with equanimity. It brings about a pound sterling per acre, depending upon its location; but on any of it the finest tropical fruits and vegetables can be raised, for everything within the tropics can be made to grow here. There are no harmful reptiles, as in St. Lucia and Martinique, and the insects inimical to man are only those which are not gen- erally regarded with fear. Steamship Communication. Saint Vincent, like the isl- ands north and south, including Dominica, Martinique, Saint Lucia, Grenada, is served by regular steamers of the Royal Mail, the Quebec Line, and Canadian. Fares, same as in the islands of the group generally: From New York, $40 to $60, first-class; return, $90 to $120. Wallibou Sugar Works, Destroyed by Eruption of the Soufrière "Li mos with supp thus ulat maj less don out Call TROXECA Brexit JONES S3880 rece Weighing Sugar, Bridgetown, Barbados stea to t with XX bree side it w long know Sou S01333 by n the end cool fruit Apr avoc abur bles Bart desi retu Weighinx Sugar, Bridgetown, Buracos BARBADOS "Little England." The island of Barbados, the eastern- most of the Caribbees, is 21 miles in length by 14 in breadth, with an area of 106,470 acres, or about 166 square miles. It supports 196,000 people, or about 1,180 to the square mile, thus making it, the statisticians say, the most densely pop- ulated country on the globe outside of China. The great majority of the inhabitants are of the African race, and less than 16,000 of the Caucasian; yet the latter have been dominant ever since its discovery in 1605. It was settled in 1625, and has been continuously a colony of England, with- out a break in its history. Thus it is well entitled to be called “Little England,” both on account of its historical record and the loyalty of its governing people, who have steadfastly maintained England's traditions and held true to the mother country. Barbados is a very healthful island, for there are no swamps within its borders, and lying out at sea, swept by strong sea breezes night and day, its tropical temperature is modified con- siderably. Sun and wind perform the duties of scavengers, as it were, creating a climatic condition extremely favourable to longevity, and for hundreds of years the island has been known as a health-resort, especially to the inhabitants of South America and the neighbouring colonies less favoured by nature. The temperature ranges from 68 to 82 degrees in the cool, or winter season, lasting from Christmas to the end of May, and from 73 to 88 degrees in the summer. The cool season also corresponds to that in which the tropical fruits and vegetables are in their prime, and from November to April one may obtain guavas, mangoes, oranges, limes, avocado pears, eddoes, sweet potatoes, yams, etc., in great abundance. Favoured by nature as it is, and having been blessed with a continuously firm and intelligent government, Barbados has proved so attractive to its own people that few desire to emigrate, and once away yearn constantly for a return to that “tight little, right little island,” which all 410 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES “Badians born and bred” declare to be a tropical England in miniature. There is certainly a peculiar charm about Barbados which, once having experienced, moves even the casual visitor to recur to it as approaching one's ideal of a land where the dolce-far-niente existence may be enjoyed in its perfection. Scenery and Resources. The scenery of Barbados is not striking, and one needs to "prowl about" a bit to find out its choicest gems. As a rule, the surface is level, but in the centre of the island rises to an elevation of above 1,000 feet. The soil is porous, in the main consisting of disin- tegrated coral rock, or limestone, but is especially adapted to the cultivation of sugar-cane, which has been the island's chief industry since the middle of the seventeenth century. The average sugar and molasses crop for thirty years past has amounted to 46,145 tons and 37,400 puncheons, with an area under crop each year of about 35,000 acres, the largest quantity in any one year being 85,300 hogsheads of sugar and 51,900 puncheons of molasses. The prevailing low prices have caused some of the planters to turn their attention to cotton, indigo, and tropical fruits, which have been neglected in the past in the almost exclusive cultiva- tion of sugar-cane. Arrowroot, cassava, maize, Guinea corn, yams, sweet potatoes, bananas, etc., are cultivated to a lim- ited extent, but hardly more than suffices for home consump- tion. It is due to the total exclusion of these small cultivations by the labourers (who, unlike others of their class in the West Indies generally, have no gardens or “provision grounds”) that they are made wholly dependent upon their labour on the sugar plantations for existence. It is with them "work or starve," and hence the Barbadian negro is the most industrious and reliable of his race in the islands. In other islands the blacks can exist independently of the planta- tions, as they have their own grounds for cultivation, ob- tained either from the government or by squatter's license, from which they derive a mere living with a minimum of labour. In such islands as St. Vincent, for example, the wild bread-fruits, plantains, etc., almost suffice for their maintenance. But in Barbados there is no land available for the poor man to cultivate, all the holdings being in the BARBADOS 411 planters' hands. There are no Crown lands, as in other islands, and (as yet) no abandoned estates which can be “squatted” upon; hence the problem that confronts Barba- dos when the sugar crop is on the verge of failure. All land suitable for crops is in a high state of cultivation, and sells at from $100 to $125 per acre. The poverty and frugality of the labourers are such that they save material which in other islands is looked upon as waste, even the “chompings" of sugar-cane, it is said, being carefully preserved, after they have extracted the juice from the stalk by mastication. Owing to this dense population, say the official statistics, there is considerable emigration (to some extent aided) to other West Indian colonies, the United States and Canada. Wages are extremely low, and there are no openings for white labour, or indeed for any class of white immigrants whatever. The cost of living, to those who are content with such foodstuffs as fish, rice, sweet potatoes and yams, is very low; for those who desire the usual European condi- tions it is fairly moderate. There are very few native resources, the mining being confined to digging for “manjak,” or glance pitch, of which less than a thousand tons a year are exported. Borings have been made for petroleum, of which there is an undoubted supply beneath the surface, but as yet without important results. Vast quantities of flying-fish are taken from the sea surrounding the island, as well as other kinds, and a movement has been made to pickle them for export; but no great headway has been made as yet. The most useful of the island's resources is an underground supply of purest water, which is obtained, by gravitation and by pumping, from springs at Newcastle, Codrington College, Cole's Cave and Bowmanston, and carried through 300 miles of pipes to Bridgetown, with free delivery stand-pipes by the roadsides about half a mile apart. Thus pure water and pure air conduce to the preservation of health in Barba- dos, which has no malarial districts. Bridgetown the Capital. The only port and commercial city of importance in Barbados is Bridgetown, which had its origin in 1627 (see page 424). It is a port without a harbour, save for the artificial one created by a breakwater, BARBADOS : 413 but as the blacks are shrewd they will often “make a bluff" for greater remuneration than the law allows. Blacks of Barbados. Once ashore, the traveller will find Bridgetown an interesting but not a very attractive city. It is hot always, the streets are dusty sometimes and glaring all the time, as roadways are constructed of coral rock, which disintegrates with use. In the town, however, they are well swept and frequently watered, while the glare is miti- gated by means of awnings. About 25,000 of the island's total population reside in Bridgetown, but the stranger landing here for the first time might be excused for sup- posing that fully one-half the blacks of Barbados had con- gregated here, for they fill the streets and squares, as well as swarm upon the wharves and sea-front generally. Ac- cording to the universal testimony of travellers also, one may see in Bridgetown relatively more white people than in most of the other islands, although they comprise less than one-tenth the population. One is jostled in the streets by horses, mules and donkeys, but the big black men are the real beasts of burden, and haul carts containing hogsheads of sugar as though they weighed but pounds instead of tons. “Work or starve” is the alternative for the blacks, and since they must work, they perform their tasks with a will. Always hearty and good-natured, though independent, even insolent, toward the white people, the blacks of Barbados are the best workers in the West Indies, and as such are in great request in other islands. But, as already indicated, they would rather labour on starvation wages in Barbados (which are down to 20 cents a day for stalwart men, and 12 cents for women) than for $1 a day at Panama; where, by the way, their assistance would prove invaluable. The blacks have built up Barbados by means of their labour; but nevertheless the white men from England have directed it, and created in the island the beautiful structures we see on every hand. While there are few noteworthy buildings in Bridgetown, all have a substantial appearance, being con- structed of limestone, of which the island is composed. Such are the public and parliament buildings, the bishop's and the governor's residence, the barracks and officers' quarters. These occupy the finest part of the city, which is prettier in 414 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES its suburbs than near shore. The great Savannah, a level field of 40 acres, is surrounded with trees that cast a grate- ful shade upon an encircling pleasure drive. The Savan- nah is known to many as the “Playground of the Bims," for here congregate not only the military men from the garrisons, but officials in civil life, the people generally, and especially the élite of society. All find room here for their various diversions-lawn tennis, cricket and polo, as well as goat, horse and pony races, tent-pegging, etc., etc. At the garrison meets and at stated intervals in the week a fine military band affords music for all assembled. Crowds of spectators attend, as well as the specially invited guests of the officers, who are received in tents and marquees, where tea and cakes are bountifully dispensed. Thus it may be noted that the “Bims" are lively enough, thanks to the mili- tary garrisons (which of late, however, have been sadly de- pleted), and are athletic, as well as socially inclined, with- standing a temperature steadily maintained into the eighties. A very attractive suburb of Bridgetown, known as Belle- ville, adjoins the government property, where reside many of the city's wealthiest citizens. It is a comparatively recent settlement, having been laid out only a few years ago, but contains many fine dwellings set among beautiful gardens, and streets lined with palms. The nearest watering-place is at Hastings, where the Marine Hotel, an enormous struc- ture, and one of the finest caravanseries in the islands, over- looks the sea. There is fine sea-bathing here, and as the distance from Bridgetown is only 2 miles, with quick con- nection by carriage or tramway, great crowds come here for recreation, and many American guests remain throughout the season, to enjoy the soft airs and restful scenes. Bridgetown is a veritable beehive for commercial activity, and as its great stores are filled with the products of both England and America, it is a good outfitting place for the tourist, who can purchase anything in season at very reason- able prices. Some of its structures are pretentious in their architecture, as compared with those of other islands, but suffer by comparison with those of the larger American cities. The city is the headquarters of that beneficent institu- tion, the “Imperial Department of Agriculture,” which has Fountain in Garden, Bridgetown Bathsheba Beach, Barbados BARBADOS 415 done so much in the interests of English planters in the British West Indies. It possesses a fine library, several monuments, and in Trafalgar Square stands a statue of Lord Nelson, who was at Barbados with his fleet the very year of his victory and death at Trafalgar. Excursions, Diversions, etc. Barbadian diversions are confined mainly to sea-bathing, riding, driving, boating, sea- fishing, dining, picnicking, and the social amusements al- ready mentioned, to which may be added the balls and re- ceptions at Government House, which take place weekly during the winter season, or while the British fleet is in harbour. This is the height of the season, in January and February, when the temperature is lowest, and also when the winter visitor finds it most convenient to call at the island. It is presumed that the visitor has made the ac- quaintance of the local “lion,” the “ice house,” where cooling drinks are dispensed; and meals furnished, with the true Bar- badian flavour: as pepper-pot and flying-fish dinners, served by native chefs, who are truly “to the manner born.” No one must leave the island without trying these dinners, which are varied and well cooked. While there are several hotels and boarding-houses in town, it is probable that the visitor will prefer those on the outskirts, as the Marine Hotel at Hastings; or at some distance from town, as Crane's and at Bathsheba. The best hotel in Barbados, the Marine, is owned and run by an American, Mr. Pomeroy, whose thirty years' experience here makes him the dean of his profession, as he is also the prince of proprietors. An “electric-mule line" (the “Bridgetown Tramways Com- pany, Limited”), with five different routes combined, runs to various points outside Bridgetown, with fares as follows: “On 2-mile lines, 6 cents; on mile lines, through fare 4 cents; half-mile sections, 2 cents. School children at 25 per cent. discount from regular rates." Cabs are numerous, and their disposition by the authori- ties at specified stands and in regular order is admirable. “For any hackney carriage with two or four wheels, drawn by one horse, by distance, not exceeding 2 miles, 6 pence each adult person, and 3 pence for each child under ten years, for each or any part of a mile, within the first 2 miles. 416 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES i Exceeding 2 miles, at rate of i shilling for each adult, and 6 pence for each child under ten, for every mile or any part of a mile beyond the first 2 miles. "By time--within and not exceeding one hour, 2 shillings for each adult, and if more than one person, I shilling for each additional person; children under ten half fare. “For every livery or hackney carriage drawn by two horses, one-half above the rates and fares hereinbefore mentioned. The above fares to be paid according to distance or time, at option of hirer, but to be expressed at time of hiring ; otherwise, fare to be paid according to distance. If after eight in the evening any carriage be found on a stand pro- vided for carriages, the driver thereof may be compelled to hire the same at rate of 9 pence per mile or part of a mile, not exceeding 2 miles; and if exceeding 2 miles, at rate of I shilling and 6 pence per mile or part of mile, after first 2 miles, for each adult person; children under ten half price.” There is one railway on the island (the “Bridgetown and St. Andrew's, Limited”), with fares first-class, as follows: to Rouen, 6 cents; Bulkley, 12 cents; Windsor, 24 cents; Carrington, 24 cents; Sunbury, 24 cents; Bushy Bark, 32 cents; Three Houses, 36 cents; Bath, 36 cents; Bathsheba, 48 cents; St. Andrew, 48 cents; third-class fares half the above. It will be noticed that the railway, being a recent construction, states its rates in American money and not, like the municipal authorities, in the obsolete British cur- rency. The tendency in all the English islands is toward the decimal system of the United States, and away from Britain's cumbersome and awkward "pounds, shillings and pence.” In fact, the most enterprising islands have adopted the decimal system altogether, not only because the bulk of their trade is with the United States, but because of its manifest advantages. A branch line of the railway runs from Carrington station to the Crane, a watering place on the Leeward coast, which supports a good hotel and several furnished houses. The Crane is about 14 miles from Bridgetown, and may be ached by carriage over the highway (one and one-half hours, cost $4) or by rail for less than one-eighth of this BARBADOS 417 sum. The scenery here is attractive, with great eroded cliffs, their bases washed by the waves. The air is cooler than in town, the bathing is excellent, and the hotel and furnished houses, especially in the hot season, are always well filled. A mile beyond Crane in the same parish of St. Philip is a magnificent mansion known as Lord's, or Long Bay Castle, the grounds about which form a favourite resort for pleasure parties. The immense building was at one time luxuriously furnished, and traces yet remain of mahogany pillars, plate mirrors, etc., though the structure is now going to decay. Ragged Point lighthouse, half an hour's drive farther on, affords a fine view of the sea, and gets the full force of the trade-winds; but the spot par excellence for strong sea breezes is Bathsheba, in the parish of St. Joseph, 14 miles distant from Bridgetown by road (time, two hours, and car- riage hire, $8). As the railroad takes one thither, however, for a fare of only 2 shillings, it is not necessary to hire a conveyance, though the distance by rail is somewhat longer- 17 miles. Bathsheba's shore line curves about a very beautiful bay, lined with cocoa palms which rise above a beach of snowy sand. A peculiarity of this shore consists in the eroded rocks, some in shape of mushrooms and haystacks, which are conspicuous in the surf that beats upon the beach. There are two small hotels here, the Beachmount and the At- lantis, for Bathsheba is a very popular resort with the ’Badians, if not with strangers to the island. Hackleton's Cliff, which rises to a height above the shore of from 800 to 1,100 feet, overlooks the coast at Bathsheba, affording many splendid views, and is an example of what may be seen in this rugged part of the island known as “Scotland." The hill scenery here is strikingly dissimilar from that of the Bridgetown region, and is extremely pic- turesque. Directly west from Bathsheba rises Mount Hillaby, the highest peak (1,104 feet) in Barbados, and within easy riding distance are many fine views and interesting localities. The hills curve around in a semicircle through the parishes of St. Andrew and St. Joseph, enclosing many a picturesque bit of scenery in this rough district, which it would repay 418 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES one to visit. Only fifteen minutes' walk from Bathsheba one reaches the confines of the petroleum district, where oil from sunken wells is still obtained; and not far off are native pot- teries, where the coarse earthenware for which Barbados is locally famous is crudely made by the primitive dwellers here. As the soil of this district is too poor for sugar-cane planting, it is mainly given over to the raising of arrow- root, the rude mills for grinding which, with their sails patched by means of cast-off garments, are quaint and in- teresting. At Gun Hill, distance from Bridgetown 6 miles, and one hour (fare by carriage $3), a splendid view is outspread of the valley of St. George, and here will be found the carven figure of a lion, after the manner of that historic one at Lucerne, though not so artistic in conception or execution. In the parish of St. Thomas (one hour distant from Bridge- town, carriage $3) is one of the most wonderful of the numerous caves in Barbados, reached by driving over a fine road for about 7 miles, through the centre of the great sugar-producing region. This is Cole's Cave, situated in a ravine famous for its immense silk-cotton tree, and itself several miles in length. No adequate attempts have been made to exploit this cavern as an attraction to strangers (as has been done with similar objects in the Bermudas and elsewhere), but it is equally beautiful with the best of them. An interesting feature of this cave is a stream of pure water, which is one of the sources of Bridgetown's supply, but the origin of which, as well as its outlet from the cavern, is a mystery. Turner's Hall Wood and Boiling Spring. The road to Cole's Cave, if followed twice the distance, or 14 miles, from Bridgetown, takes one to Turner's Hall Wood, in St. Andrew's parish (time two hours, fare by carriage, $5 single, $8 double). The road all the way is interesting, but as it approaches the confines of the woods, which are good examples of tropical forests, becomes fascinating. This wood is said to be the only remnant of the great tropical forest that at one time is supposed to have covered the island, and it contains almost the only game worth the hunting in Barba- dos. There is little shooting in the island, except of plover BARBADOS 419 and such birds in the winter season, and these woods ho!d the only wild animals, containing as they do specimens of rac- coons and monkeys. They are difficult to obtain, however, for at one time in the past a bounty was placed upon their heads, and they .came near being extirpated. The so-called “Boiling Spring” is more in the nature of a gas well, for the commotion on its surface is caused by the escape of gas (carburetted hydrogen), which, especially when under pres- sure from the rain-saturated soil in the wet season, will take fire if a match is applied, and burn with a flickering flame. It gives out great heat in burning, so that eggs may be cooked and the camp kettle boiled, when properly placed over it, especially if an inverted funnel be used for concen- trating the flames. Animal-Flower Cave. The northern and northeastern shores of Barbados are exposed to the ever-blowing trade- winds, which, during centuries past, have driven mighty billows thundering upon the rocks and hollowed out caverns in numerous places. The most wonderful of these caverns is that known as the “Animal-Flower Cave,” at the extreme northern point of the island. It is rarely visited, because the roads leading thither are rough and access to the cave obtained only in the most serene weather, when the sea is calm. The distance by road from Bridgetown is 18 miles (time about three hours; carriage, $5). From Bathsheba it is much less, also from Belle Plain station, the terminus of the railway in St. Andrew's. From this station, by the way, the distance to Turner's Hall Wood and the Boiling Spring may be shortened, as well as the expense greatly lessened, as it is only 3 or 4 miles away. Remotely situated as it is, the Animal-Flower Cave should only be visited by those who can endure the ride without fatigue; and with the entrance to the cave in the face of a cliff 40 feet in height, with a bridge of rock to be crossed in the intervals of incoming billows, great caution is neces- sary. There is danger of being washed off of the “natural bridge” giving access to the cavern, but when once within, the visitor is safe and secure. There the water is smooth as glass, and covers a perfect mosaic of anemones, or "animal flowers,” of every hue and shape. The roof of the cavern 420 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES is hung with stalactites, from which clear water drops con- tinually, but no stalagmites are formed, owing to the floor being covered with salt water. “A visit to this cave,” says the author of Stark's Guide to Barbados, “is truly a sublime spectacle. The long Atlantic roll approaches the headland in great unbroken masses until it comes in contact with the cliffs, when it dashes against them with a deafening roar, filling the opening of the cave with a watery curtain, the effect of which is peculiar and grand. At the commence- ment, when the masses of water are thick and compact, al- most total darkness prevails; then follows suddenly a brownish hue, which changes into a yellow glare, until the wave has retreated, and a bright light breaks through the opening, again to be darkened by the next incoming wave." The views from the cliffs are magnificent, and the sea-bath- ing to be had in this vicinity is superb; but that too great caution cannot be used in gaining entrance to the cave, the visitor should by all means remember. Codrington College. This famous university, the only one of its class in the British West Indies, is situated in St. John's parish, 15 miles distant from Bridgetown, and can be reached by rail as well as by carriage ($4 and two hours). It was founded by Sir Christopher Codrington in 1710, is amply endowed, and for 200 years has been a most bene- ficent force for good. No more delightful place can be imagined than this as a retreat for students, with vine-cov- ered corridors opening upon avenues of tall and stately palms. The university is connected with that of Durham, England, and its graduates are eligible for all degrees in the latter institution of learning. “On the left, facing a small lake, stands the old mansion where the founder lived and died; it is now the Principal's Lodge. Immediately in front ranges the picturesque façade of the college buildings, built of gray stone in the square, heavily mullioned style of the Georgian period. On the right, above the grove of mahogany trees, is the cricket ground, where many a keen match is played between the siu- dents and the elevens of the island or the garrison. Through and beyond the belfry lie the tennis lawns. The visitor for- gets for the moment that he is in the tropics, and fancies BARBADOS 421 himself transported back to Oxford. Here is the chapel panelled in native cedar and mahogany; here the hall, lofty, roomy, and distinguished by a monastic simplicity; and here the library, laden with that scent of old books, and breathing that atmosphere of hushed repose, which is a characteristic charm of all college libraries. Nor are the college system and rule unlike those of the English universities. It is Ox- ford adapted to the tropics. The chapel bell rings its sum- mons at seven in the morning, and in troop the students in academic attire. After service begin the lectures of the day. . Men are earlier risers in the tropics, and the reading which in England would be done at night is done here in the early morning, for the day which begins at sunrise does not linger on long after sunset. At four o'clock in the cool of the after- noon the cricket and tennis begin. Evensong in the chapel is sung at seven, and by half-past eight or nine the day is over. There are no College gates, nor is there any locking- out, for the heat of the climate demands that all windows and doors shall stand open day and night. A watchman guards the premises." Education is not compulsory in Barbados, but ample pro- vision has been made for all classes, by means of elementary first and second grade schools, the venerable Codrington, and the more advanced and well-equipped Harrington Col- lege. The “Barbados Scholarship’ of about $900, awarded an- nually, is tenable for four years at any university of Great Britain, Europe or Canada that is approved by the Educa- tion Board. Harrington College was founded by a merchant of that name in 1733, and stands in spacious grounds near the city, with many fine trees to shade it; but not so picturesquely located as its sister college, lovely Codrington, which almost realises one's ideal of scholastic seclusion. It is a famous institution, comprehensive and liberal in its curriculum, and its graduates have successfully competed for scholar- ship honours at Oxford and Cambridge. Farley Hill and Mansion. One of the “show-places” of Barbados is Farley Hill, with its beautiful mansion, orchards and fine scenery, once belonging to the late Sir Graham Briggs, a West Indian baronet of great attainments and 422 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES unbounded hospitality. The place is described at length in The English in the West Indies, by James Anthony Froude, who was once Sir Graham's guest at Farley Hill. Distance from Bridgetown 16 miles (two hours, $4, by carriage), a drive well worth taking for views by the way, and the op- portunity for inspecting a country mansion filled with art and aboriginal treasures. St. Peter's parish, in which Farley Hall is situated, was at one time the home of Indians, who have left behind them thousands of objects illustrating their · works in stone, such as axes, chisels, spear-heads, arrow- points, etc. Sir Graham Briggs was an indefatigable col- lector of these, as well as of other antiquities, specimens of which once filled the rooms of his mansion. "Little England” (though most of its people be black withal) Barbados has been called, and will remain for many years. With its English churches and chapels-of-ease, its country mansions in which dwell hospitable planters of the good old type of British squire, its churchyards and monu- ments, its aristocratic officials drawn from England's higher ranks, its military police and fire brigade, patterned after the old country's best, and its English customs everywhere prevailing, Barbados is well entitled to its appellation. Locally, and among the other islands, the Barbadians are known as “Bims,” who are vastly proud of being “Badians born and bred.” It is this belief in their little island's su- periority over all others in the world that supports them in times of adversity, and blinds them to the inevitable woes of the future. The coast is indented with beautiful bays, like White Haven, Conset's, and Martin's, and the island abounds in lovely views, like that outspread from St. John's Church, Farley Hill, Mount Misery, and Mount Hillaby. With the attractions enumerated and described in detail, and the in- terest sure to be excited by animated nature here, the social diversions, etc., it would seem that Barbados could present a fairly complete list of inducements for the traveller to tarry here at least a season. Hotels and Boarding-Houses. The Marine Hotel, at Hastings, 2 miles from Bridgetown, largest and best on the www.nd (bar, etc.), $2.50 to $4 per day. Native Huts, Barbados 424 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES tween French islands, Dominica, St. Lucia and Cayenne. There are also sailing vessels of small tonnage between Barbados and other islands and Demerara. Telephone service (500 subscribers) all over island; tele- graphic cable connection with all the world. A Glance at 'Bados History. Barbados was discov- ered by Spaniards, who named it Los Barbados, or the Bearded, from the beard-like clumps of vines or tendrils hanging to the wild fig trees. They made no settlement, however, and the next to visit it were Englishmen, in the Olive Blossom, fitted out by Sir Olive Leigh in April, 1605. They found the island uninhabited, and left it so, the first settlement being made by a company of their coun- trymen, which had been sent out by Sir William Courteen, in two large vessels, with forty emigrants and eight negroes who had been captured on the voyage. Driven to Barbados by stress of weather, they landed on the Leeward side and formed a settlement which they named Jamestown (as some Englishmen had done seventeen years previously in Vir- ginia). This place is now called Holetown, and is about 7 miles distant from Bridgetown, the capital. It was of some importance in 1700, when it had a fort, the remains of which may still be seen. The parish church here, Saint James, has a tombstone bearing date 1669, a marble font, date 1684, and an antique communion service, while in its baptistry is an old bell, with the inscription: “God bless King William, 1696." This first settlement dates from 1625, but in 1627 the Earl of Carlisle obtained from King James a grant of all the Caribbees, and he sent out a native of Bermuda, one Wolfer- stone, as governor. He landed in a protected situation which he called Carlisle Bay, and commenced here a settlement which he named Bridgetown, from a bridge thrown across a stream at this point. It was not long before the two parties came into conflict respecting their rights, but the “Leeward Men," as the Jamestown people were termed, suffered de- feat. In the second party was a son of John Winthrop (governor of the Massachusetts Bay colony, 1629) and other men of note. The colony prospered, though at the time of its foundation there were no aboriginal inhabitants on the BARBADOS 425 island, few if any plants suitable for sustentation, and no wild animals save some hogs, which had been left there by Spaniards or Portuguese. In 1645 the population comprised 18,000 immigrants, of which number more than 11,000 were then landed proprie- tors. Five years later the number had increased to 30,000, one-fifth of whom were negro slaves, and it was in this period greatly augmented by many wealthy Royalists from England, who fled to Barbados for refuge, became planters, and enriched the colony. The Royalist party in Barbados became so strong, in fact, that when news was received of Charles the First's execution, the Barbadians at once pro- claimed themselves the subjects of Charles the Second as their lawful sovereign. Lord Willoughby, a Royalist exile, was elected governor, and under him the people resisted, though vainly, a fleet and force sent against them by Parlia- ment in 1651. After the Restoration in 1662, Lord Wil- loughby entered claims against Barbados, which were satis- fied by the imposition of a duty on all exports of 472 per cent., which was not abolished until 1838. Between 1650 and 1675 Barbados possessed almost as many white inhabitants as it contains to-day, for there could be only a certain number of landed proprietors, while the negro slaves increased prodigiously, so that by the middle of the eighteenth century there were more than 60,000 in the island. White slaves were introduced from England be- tween 1650 and 1660, when several thousand unfortunate Irish and Scotsmen were sold to the planters at 1,500 pounds of sugar per head. They were treated with great inhumanity, and reduced to the level of the negroes them- selves, but eventually some of them became planters and proprietors, and Barbados has seen no white slaves within its borders for the past two hundred years. Negro slavery was abolished in 1834, but since emancipation Barbados has continued to prosper until a recent period. To obtain labour- ers on their plantations, the Barbadians sent expeditions to the neighbouring islands for Indians, and an episode arising from one of these is chronicled in the story entitled Yinkle and Yarico. A beautiful Indian maiden fell in love with an Englishman engaged in one of these expeditions, and by him 426 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES was taken to Barbados and sold into slavery, together with the unborn child of which he was the father. The story was told by Richard Steele in the Spectator. Washington's Visit to Barbados. The story of Barba- dos becomes somewhat prosaic after the seventeenth cen- tury, varied by several uprisings of the negroes, which in- variably ended in the gibbeting, burning alive, or beheading of the ringleaders. About the middle of the eighteenth cen- tury, or in the winter of 1751-52, George Washington, then ranking as major in the British colonial army, made his only foreign voyage. It was to Barbados, which was thus the only foreign country ever visited by the “Father of his Country," then twenty years of age. He went there with his brother, Lawrence, who was far gone in consumption and sought Barbados, the fame of which had reached him, as a last resort. The two brothers arrived at Bridgetown Novem- ber 3, 1751, and George remained there until December 22d, when he left for Virginia, where he arrived February 1, 1752. As was customary with this painstaking, methodical indi- vidual, he kept a journal of his doings, daily setting down every event of importance and otherwise. The traditional 'Badian hospitality was shown him and his brother, the latter then famous as one who had served in the Cartagena cam- paign of 1740-42, and under date of November 4th he re- cords: “This morning received a card from Major Clark, welcoming us to Barbados, with an invitation to breakfast and dine with him. We went, myself with some reluctance, as the smallpox was in his family, and were received in the most kind and friendly manner by him.” His fears as to contracting the smallpox were soon after justified, for on the 17th of the month he was “strongly attacked,” and did not go out again until December 12th. Ten days later he sailed for Virginia, leaving Lawrence in the care of friends, intending to join him in Bermuda with the latter's wife; but the invalid eventually returned home without him, and ex- pired at Mount Vernon, leaving to his devoted brother that famous estate with which his name is so intimately associated. The cottage in which the brothers resided during their stay was, according to Washington's diary: “Very pleasantly situated, pretty near the Sea, and about a mile from Town. BARBADOS 427 The prospect is extensive by Land and pleasant by Sea, as we command the prospect of Carlyle Bay and all the Ship- ping in such a manner that none can go in or out without being open to our View.” Barbados was never invaded by a foreign foe, but often took part in the wars that raged in the islands, sending sol- diers to the aid of the English fighting the French in St. Kitts, Martinique and St. Lucia. . In the year 1805 the Barbadians were honoured by a visit from Lord Nelson, whose victory and death that year at Trafalgar they later commemorated by a statue, which is in evidence yet. The same year a court-martial was held on a warship in Carlisle Bay, upon the surrender by Captain Maurice and his company of 180 men, of what the English styled his Majesty's late sloop, Diamond Rock. This “sloop of war" was the great rock off Martinique (alluded to in the description of that island), which was defended for months by these gallant inen, who only surrendered when compelled by impending starvation, and were honourably acquitted by the court- martial. At the breaking out of the American Revolution, Barba- dos had a population of 12,000 white inhabitants and 80,000 blacks, or nearly half as many as it now contains. It was prosperous, too, as well as populous, though it sent in 1778 a petition of relief to the home government, which, notwith- standing its enormous outlay in America, sent the island 3,000 barrels of flour, and 3,000 barrels of herring, peas and beans, to be sold to the people at cost. French and Ameri- can privateers vexed the coast of Barbados occasionally, but beyond the loss of a mail-packet now and then, the island suffered little from their depredations. The French ravaged other and less prosperous islands, .as St. Kitts and St. Lucia, but let Barbados alone. In the War of 1812, however, Barbados suffered severely, for at that time the American privateers were alert and numerous. Her commerce was for a while in jeopardy, and it was not strange that the treaty of peace in 1815 was hailed with rejoicings. The year 1816 was signalised by the worst insurrection of the negroes the island ever experienced, it was so well planned, so widespread and sanguinary. Cane fields and Forest of Cocoa Palms, Barbados The Grand Etang, Grenada GRENADA AND THE GRENADINES Physical Characteristics. They have character enough, those low-lying Grenadines, which we first encounter to the southward of Saint Vincent, from which they are separated (as a group or chain) by a very narrow channel. They constitute a connecting chain between St. Vincent and Grenada, and as they are rarely if ever visited by steam vessels, may be considered as beyond the tourist's ken. But, again, nothing that is of interest in the West Indies should be overlooked in a comprehensive Guide to those islands, and cer- tainly the little Grenadines come within the scope of this one. Beginning with the northernmost islet, Becquia, we find that the chain consists of a varied assortment–islets, rocks, pin- nacles of submerged mountains, rising just above the waves- but hardly of islands large enough to merit the name, and that they extend over about a degree of latitude. Yet Becquia is 6 miles in length by a mile in breadth, and has a range of hills 800 feet in height; while the southernmost of all, Caria- cou, which is the largest of the chain, has a population of more rather than under 6,000. They are mostly black and coloured, these inhabitants of the extremely isolated Grenadines, and are exceedingly apathetic. The sea yields them sufficient for the day, and they trouble themselves to look ahead for no longer period. Their sterile lands produce cotton and cane enough to supply them with commodities not obtainable from the sea, and thus they are content. The contrast between these silent, sleepy islands (whose inhab- itants are contented merely to exist, so it be without work) and Barbados, less than 100 miles away, where the people all must either labour or starve, is most refreshing. Some of the isles, like Becquia, Baliceaux, Battowia, and others, are owned by single individuals, who raise cattle, sheep, and goats. As all are well stocked by nature with wild doves, ducks, plover, and other migrants in their season, and as their shores are surrounded by myriads of sea-fowl, no one need starve or go hungry so long as he can "tote a gun.” 430 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The general appearance of the Grenadines is that of a nearly submerged line of mountains. Sometimes an entire ridge is exposed; again, only a single conical peak or mound of verdure appears just above the water, and the question quite naturally arises, Were these islands ever connected with the mainlands to the north and south of them? Did they, as Humboldt queries, “belong to the southern continent and form a portion of its littoral chain,” like Tobago and Trinidad ? It is easy to connect these mountain peaks peering above the sea with a once existing and now submerged continent, which extended over the vast space now covered by the Caribbean Sea, and far into the Atlantic, toward the west coast of Africa. This would give us the “Lost Atlantis” of the ancients; and perhaps it was not a myth, after all, but had once a real existence, and the land discovered by those Tyrian navigators of the "year one,” who sailed out of the Mediterranean far beyond the Pillars of Hercules, was indeed part of a continent now beneath these very waves! We will leave these speculations to the geologists and sail on toward Grenada. About midway the chain we perceive a group of three islands, near together, with a few water- surrounded peaks between them; but they appear like whole chines of ridges. The first of these is Canouan, where reside the numerous descendants of a one-time patriarch, who, though connected with an English baronet of recent creation, came hither and established himself, “monarch of all he sur- veyed." The next islet, Union, is very attractive in outline, and on near approach reveals a virgin vegetation, with but little cultivation, though the inhabitants are expert whale fishers and build baats that are famous the chain throughout. Last of all is Cariacou, largest and most densely populated, the home of sturdy planters and fishermen. The entire chain has an aggregate area of about 8,000 acres. Down' at the end of it, last and southernmost of the volcanic Caribbees, we find Grenada, which emerges from the purple haze as we draw nearer and stands revealed, a volcano in miniature. The Last of the Caribbees. The semi-lunar figure described by the general trend of the Caribbees cannot have failed to impress the observer, and also their regularity of spacing il the map. Taking them in sequence, from north to south, 432 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ness of the streets, which are well paved, but water worn. The views, especially from Government House, which is set in very attractive grounds, and from the old fortifications on Richmond Heights, are superb. If it be one's desire to see (perhaps for the first time) the glorious Southern Cross flaming above the distant South American mainland, the old fort on the headland should be visited at night; and by day it is a pleasant place to wander in, with its ruined parapet, shrubbery-hidden bastion, and rusty cannon. Climate and Products. St. George's houses are mostly old and weather-stained, but they are picturesque; the public buildings are massive in their construction, the churches conspicuous, set as they are upon the hills. The climate (pro- vided one does not have to climb that fearsome hill too often at midday) will be found healthful, though hot. There are few endemic diseases here, and the island is almost exempt from disastrous hurricanes. It will soon be per- ceived that the staple products of Grenada are cacao, sugar, and rum, in about the order mentioned. The cacao is ex- ported; but the sugar and rum are consumed on the island, the latter to the amount of 60,000 gallons a year, or about a gallon per head for every man, woman, and child in Grenada! From this it will be seen that the facility with which they can gain a living here is not the sole reason why the black men have a love and liking for the island. All the "ground provisions” for which the West Indies are noted, besides cacao, coffee, tropic fruits, kola-nuts, and spices, may be produced here in abundance, and hence Grenada has been called “the Spice Island of the Caribbees.” Excursions from St. George's. North, east, and southeast of the town the verdurous hills rise amphitheatre-like, and inere words cannot do justice to their beauty. One longs to see more of an island which gives such promise at the outset; and, truth to tell, a stay of at least a week in Grenada will not be time misspent by any means. While a resort for the Trinidadians and others to the southward, who come here as to a northern region with cooler airs than their own heated isles can boast, Grenada has not become so well known dwellers of the temperate zone in general. Many years have elapsed since the writer of these lines first landed in 436 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES that visits can easily be paid to that pretty island and its interesting natural harbour, the 'Grand Carenage, from which a plentiful supply of excellent oysters is obtained in the season. From the new hospital there, at Bellevue, in the centre of the island, one of the most perfect views in the West Indies may be seen on a clear evening, when St. Vincent on the north and Grenada in the south, 68 miles apart, with the chain of Grenadine islets lying like small gems in between them, are clearly visible. Here, too, those interested in such matters may observe the practical development of a scheme, conducted by the Government, of settlement of peasant pro- prietors on allotments cut out of abandoned sugar estates, and the creation thereby of a body of contented landowners where, a few years ago, there were only desolation and acacia scrub.”-From the Grenada Handbook, issue of 1907. Towns Worth Visiting. Twelve miles north of St. George's, on the same Leeward coast, lies Gouyave (as the French called it), now known as Charlotte Town, with its humble houses built along a curving sand-beach between the hills and the shore. Then there are smaller settlements, like Victoria, or Grand Pauvre, Sauteurs, and Grenville, which last is next to the capital in size and importance. It is situ- ated, however, on the Windward coast, and its spacious harbour is almost barred from entrance by the sea, owing to a line of reefs, upon which the surges continually beat. The market-places of these towns present very interesting spectacles on Saturdays, especially in Grenville, where people from adjacent parishes, as well as many from the Grenadines, assemble for barter. The Hill of the Leapers. The history of Grenada previous to its conquest is similar to that of all the other islands, north as well as south of it. That is, it had no history until the French and English came here, and first subjugated, then destroyed, its aboriginal inhabitants. These, as found in possession by the Europeans, were Caribs, descended from Indians of Guiana, who had wandered here in their canoes. Finding the island well stocked with game and its waters with fish, they made it their home. About the middle of the seventeenth century, or in 1650, to be exact, the governor of Martinique, M. du Parquet, came hither for conquest, accompanied by 200 followers. He was prepared for war, but finding the Caribs tractable, opened negotiations with GRENADA AND THE GRENADINES 437 them and soon acquired supreme control. He accomplished his purpose by craft and not through force of arms, for, being well provided with knives, glass beads, hatchets, and such like things craved by the aborigines, he won their lands from them without delay. That is, he procured a landing- place and site for a settlement by means of these gewgaws, but subsequently acquired sovereignty over almost the whole island by presenting the chief with two bottles of brandy. The current tradition has it that Grenada was obtained for two bottles of rum, but it was probably brandy; at any rate, the bargain was a good one for the Frenchmen, and the Caribs soon found it out. When they discovered how they had been cheated they did the usual thing, and promptly went on the warpath. By this time, however, the island was pretty well filled with Frenchmen, and, being well armed, they drove the Caribs before them to the verge of a high precipice on the Caribbean shore. Good old Père Labat, a French Jesuit, who "did" the West Indies some two hun- dred years ago, describes the fatal conflict that then followed and made, an end of the Indians. “The simple savages, being hard pressed, retired to the summit of a small promontory, which was surrounded by frightful precipices and accessible only by a narrow path, the opening to which they were careful to conceal. The French, however, succeeded in discovering the secret passage and broke in upon them by surprise. The savages fought desperately, but were entirely defeated, and most of them massacred. The rest were driven to the verge of the precipice, where they made a last stand, but finding themselves outnumbered and overpowered, they threw them- selves headlong from the cliff, at the base of which they were dashed to pieces. This cliff is now known as Le Morne des Sauteurs, or Leapers' Hill.” The French outdid the savages in fiendish atrocities, and another historian nientions the taking prisoner of a Carib girl about twelve years old by two French officers, who quarrelled over their respective rights in the captive, until a third officer ended the dispute by shooting her in the head. Thus the island was depopulated of its original inhabitants, and when they were gone the French fell to fighting among themselves. Then the English came down upon them, about the middl 438 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES of the eighteenth century, and the island changed hands sev- eral times, until finally secured to Great Britain by treaty in 1783. It has remained in her possession ever since; but, like Dominica and St. Lucia, the speech of the people is mainly French, as well as their costumes and habitudes. Cacao, Grenada's Chief Crop. There is no island where a study can be made of cacao, the "chocolate tree," so thor- oughly and readily as in Grenada. As the writer declared in his first visit to the island, the tree, with its nutri- tious fruit, is a more bountiful producer than the pro- lific cocoa-palm, with which, from its similarity of name, it is sometimes confounded. Unlike the towering coco, or cocoa, however, with its smooth shaft crowned with waving leaves-a notable object in the field and forest- the cacao seldom reaches a greater height than 30 feet, and might be passed by without notice were it not for its peculiar fruit. It flourishes best in damp and shady valleys, and embosomed among the mountain forest trees. So necessary is shade to its successful growth that the young plants are always protected by some other tree, notably the madre de cacao, or bois immortelle, sometimes by bananas and plantains, until it has attained its growth. The tops of the trees are generally interwoven, forming a dense and grateful shade, beneath which, among the smooth stems, one may walk in comfort even at hot noonday. The tree attains maturity in seven or eight years, but may bear at three. Its fruit somewhat resembles an over-ripe cucumber, about 6 inches in length, and is beautifully col- oured-yellow, crimson, and purple, depending upon its prog- ress toward maturity. Each pod is divided into cells con- taining a sweet pulp, in which are enveloped some twenty or thirty seeds, from which chocolate is produced. When the fruit is mature these seeds are gathered and dried. Great care is necessary, as they quickly deteriorate, and the planters generally provide platforms on wheels, upon which the seeds are spread in the sun, and run beneath a shelter on signs of rain. The cacao bestows upon its cultivators a certain in- come with little toil, so it is a favourite with the negroes, who, once started in life with a small plantation, ask for nothing more. They have enemies, however, in the wild Cocoa Palms of Tobago TOBAGO Situation and Physical Features. Twenty miles northeast of Trinidad, and right in line with Barbados, following the curve of the Caribbees, lies the picturesque and historically interesting island of Tobago. Like the island of Trinidad, it is physically a slice from the South American continent, and perhaps marks the northeasternmost projection of that continent into the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea. It is 26 miles in length and 772 in breadth at its broadest, and contains 114 square miles, or about 73,000 acres of fertile soil, of which about 53,000 are held as private properties in estates and gardens, 6,400 are set apart (and very wisely) as a "rain and forest reserve," and the remainder, some 13,600 acres, is so-called Crown land, which is available for settle- ment and plantations.* The island is of volcanic formation. The southern portion is quite level, the central undulating, with conical hills and charming little valleys scooped out in a singularly picturesque manner. The northern portion consists of hill ranges running down the centre, with long, deep valleys dividing them, and from each other by spurs branching off from the main ridge. These valleys, without exception, are extremely fertile and well watered, each valley having its own stream, rapid run- ning and overhung with tropical vegetation. The highest point in the island, Pigeon Hill, is only 1,900 feet, and yet Tobago seems more mountainous than hilly, while the north- ern portion seems to consist of one continuous forest. The shores are broken by beautiful bays, with sandy beaches shaded by cocoa-palms and each beach with its tropical stream. These streams are not navigable, except for small boats; but the indentations along the coast were in olden times the resorts of war fleets and piratical craft lying in wait for Spanish treasure-ships. *Although the author has visited Tobago and examined its forests, streams, plantations, etc., he mainly follows, in this description, the Notes on Tobago, issued by the (British) Imperial Department of Agriculture ; to which the reader is referred for information respect. ing its value to prospective settlers. 442 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES can afford to wait from five to ten years for adequate re- turns. The total population is only 20,000, of which number, however, less than 2,000 are white people, the major portion being natives of negro descent. Thus society is meagre, and the settler is thrown upon his own resources or obliged to hie himself to Trinidad, 20 miles away, for recreation of the higher sort. The capital and only town worthy the name is Scarborough, on the south side of the island, situated at the base of a hill 450 feet in height, upon which are the ruins of Fort King George, which commands a splendid view of the har- bour and the surrounding sea. It contains about 2,500 inhab- itants, mostly black or coloured, and its houses are scarcely worth mention. The government buildings, however, are massive structures, and the town boasts a church or two and several boarding-houses. There are also well-stocked stores, including dry goods, drugs, and groceries, at the low prices usually prevailing in the West Indies; but there are no banking facilities, though British coin and notes of the Colonial Bank (at Trinidad and elsewhere) are current exchange. The laws of Tobago are the same as those of Trinidad, since the two islands form one colony for governmental pur- poses. The natives are quiet and law-abiding, crime being almost unknown, and drunkenness not common; though there are five or six “rum shops” in Scarborough alone, and several in the country districts. Taxes are low, living is remark- ably cheap, but luxuries, except by private importation, not abundant. For example, eggs sell at i cent each, milk is 4 cents per quart; fowls are 8 to 12 cents per pound; beef (but very poor in quality) is 12 cents; and mutton (likewise poor), 18 cents a pound. Servants' wages are low, but the service is poor, though the blacks are faithful and generally honest. Housemaids, butlers, and grooms receive about £i sterling per month, while the lower grades are content with half that sum. There is another town, Plymouth, on the north side of the island, about 5 miles from the capital, with a straggling pop- ulation of about 1,200, and two or three villages, as Rox- horough in the "windward” district and Charlotteville in the northern. Internal communication is kept up by means of 444 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES dry (or winter) season it is perfectly safe to camp out in the woods. There are no poisonous insects or reptiles, except a few scorpions, tarantulas, and centipedes, which are not numerous or dangerous. Thus in Tobago one may view the tropical forest as it exists on the near continent without running the risks he would there in obtaining it. He should visit the beautiful Man-of-War Bay, at the extreme tip of the island, north, with its adjacent forests of cogwood, which in spring are masses of beautiful bloom, and with its creek that once was the lair of pirates, in the "good old times.” The battles waged between the fighters of those times are perpetuated by Man-of-War, Englishman's, and Bloody Bays, and the ruins of old forts are to be found on almost every commanding promontory. Means of Communication. The best months in which to visit Tobago (as also Trinidad and the other islands of the Southern West Indies) are January, February, and March. In the last-named month, and in April, one will obtain a delicious taste of spring in the vernal efflorescence, abun- dance of song-birds, and the outpourings of their liquid melodies. The time from New York is about ten days for the voyage, and from London fourteen days. There is no direct communication with the outside world, though now and then a steamer touches here; but the Royal Mail Line has a subsidiary service once a week between Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, and Scarborough, with first-class return ticket at $7, including meals. The time between ports is eight hours. “The passenger accommodation is not very commodious, nor is travelling by the coasting steamer an unmixed delight," but still it is endurable, and promises to be better in the future. This line also has a coastal service around Tobago, touching at every port. Fare, first-class, $2.40; second, $1.60, without meals; but these, as also wines and other liquors, may be obtained on board. No one should fail to take this round-the-island voyage if it can be managed without discomfort, as thereby all the historic bays and head- lands, the beautiful beaches and inland forests may be viewed. "Iotels and Boarding-houses. Taking the pampered tour- - it's point of view, there are no first-class hotels in Tobago; TOBAGO 445 but the “Lodge" and the “Fairfield” furnish good food and cleanly accommodations at $2 per day to a limited number, with sea bathing near the latter; and there is a small but select social club in town, “where the visitor with due intro- duction will always find a welcome. Books on Tobago. A History of Tobago, by Chief Justice Woodcock, 1867. Published by subscription, and probably out of print. Handbook of Tobago, by former Commissioner Hay, 1899. Planting in Tobago, and Hints to Settlers, by the Imperial Department of Agriculture, published by the Commissioner, at Barbados, West Indies; price 6d. Crusoe's Island, a Bird-Hunter's Story, by Frederick A. Ober (author of this Guide). Probably the only book giving a hunter's experience in the forests of Tobago and the bird life there. In the form of an adventure story, with citations froni Crusoe. The Present Prospect of the Famous and Fertile Island of Tobago, by Captain John Poyntz. Published in 1683, re- printed in 1901, by Mr. Archibald, once a resident in the island. The author of this ancient volume was himself a one-time dweller in the island, of which he says in his Preface: “... And I am persuaded there is no island in America that can afford us more ample subjects to contem- plate the bounty and goodness of our great Creator in than this of Tobago; and this I speak not by hearsay, or as one that has always liv'd at home, but as one that has had experience of the world, and been in the greatest part of the Caribbee Islands, and in almost all his Majestie's foreign plantations; and having view'd them all, have chosen this island of Tobago to take up my quietus est in.” Its Fascinating History. Tobago was discovered by Chris- topher Columbus on his third voyage, in 1498, and named by him from its resemblance to a tobacco pipe (it is said), which in the aboriginal language was Tabaco. No settlement was made there, however, until about 1625, when some English attempted one, though repulsed by the Indians there resident. In 1632, 200 Dutchmen planted a colony, which was soon after extirpated by the Spaniards of Trinidad, who incited the Caribs to kill them. In 1642 the Duke of Courland, a ELE Louis d'Or Estate, Windward Coast, Tobago TOBAGO 447 Tobago was again invaded by the French in 1781, who landed at Plymouth, on Great Courland Bay, but were driven to the woods. In 1793 the island was wholly English again, but was ceded to the French in 1802, and had a voice in the election of Napoleon Bonaparte as First Consul. That same year, also, it became the residence of the famous Ameri- can privateer, John Paul Jones, whose tarry here was a most interesting episode in that wanderer's adventurous career. Taken by the English in 1803, the island was finally ceded to them in 1814, and has since remained in their possession. Tobago as the True Crusoe's Island. If the reader does not find Tobago's history fascinating, as epitomised above, perhaps he may be interested in the statement that the island has been identified with one of the world's most famous heroes—namely, “Robinson Crusoe, Mariner,” immortalised by Mr. Daniel Defoe in the romance which he published in the year 1719. It may come as a shock to the readers and admirers of Robinson Crusoe to learn that the island on which he had his (perhaps fictitious) adventures lies, not in the Pacific, but between the Atlantic Ocean and the Carib- bean Sea. Yet if one will read the story attentively, or at least the opening chapters, he cannot but become convinced that such is really the case. Tobago is the real island of Robinson Crusoe's adventures, and the following paragraphs are submitted in proof of it. All readers of Crusoe (and “their name is legion”) will re- call that his perilous career began after he had run away to sea, was shipwrecked, captured by the Moors, with whom he lived two years or so, from whom he escaped, and finally arrived on the coast of Brazil. Here he settled down as planter, and about four years after, finding himself in need of slaves, set out for the coast of Africa in quest of them. It is with this voyage that the adventures begin which have held the attention of hosts of young readers through several generations. Remember that he set sail from Brazil, on the east coast of South America; that he had not been out long when a storm came up and drove his vessel far out of its course. Crusoe Himself Describes Tobago. Here is the narrative 448 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES by Crusoe himself: "The master [of the ship) made an Obser- vation, as well as he could, and found that he was in about eleven Degrees of North Latitude, so that we were gotten be- yond the coast of Guiana, and beyond the River Amazones, toward the great River Oroonoque (Oronoco) . . . So we chang'd our Course, and steer'd away northwest by west, in order to reach some of the English Islands; but a second Storm came upon us and drove us so out of the way of all humane Commerce that, had all our lives been sav'd as to the Sea, we were rather in danger of being devour'd by the Salvages, than of ever returning to our own Country. In this distress, one of our Men, early in the Morning, cry'd out 'Land' and we had no sooner ran out of the Cabbin to look, in the hopes of seeing whereabouts in the World we were, but the Ship struck upon a Rock, and in a Moment, being stoppd, the Sea broke over her in such a Manner that we expected we should all have perish'd immediately." In point of fact (or fiction rather) they all did perish, and none was saved but Crusoe, who swam ashore, and landed safely on the island which was to be the scene of his subsequent adventures for twenty-eight years. That it was a beach in Tobago on which Crusoe landed that morning in 1659 is susceptible not only of constructive, but positive, proof. First he sets sail on the voyage from a port on the east coast of South America, and sails northwardly until off the coast of Guiana southeasterly from Trinidad and To- bago; again, the last observation showed him to be in about 11° of north latitude (which is that of Tobago), an island which was being exploited in London by numerous "adven- turers” for colonisation purposes about the time that Defoe wrote his story. Still again, and now in the words of Crusoe, the swift currents that sweep among those islands of the Southern Caribbees are faithfully described; also the Carib Indians, who then inhabited there; and finally, the island of Trinidad is mentioned by name as in sight from the south hills of Tobago-as any one may verify to-day. After he had been on the island some time, and had discov- ered his “Man Friday” (who was a Carib, by the way), he and his servant took a little journey. ... “When I pass'd the Vale where my Bower stood, I came within view of the TOBAGO 449 Sea, and, it being a clear Day, I Fairly descried Land- whether an Island or a Continent, I could not tell; but it lay very high, and at a great distance. ... I ask'd him (Friday) how far it was from our Island to the Shore, and whether Canoes were not often lost. And he told me there was no Danger-no Canoes ever lost; but that a little Way out to sea there was a Wind and a Current, always one way in the Morning, and another in the Afternoon. This I understood to be no more than the sets of the Tyde, as going out and coming in; but I afterwards understood it to be occasion'd by the great Draught and Reflux of the mighty River Oroonoque, in the Mouth or Gulph of which our Island lay. And the Land which I perceiv'd was the great Island of Trinidad, on the north Point of the Mouth of the River.” Thus it has been shown beyond a doubt that the island which Defoe had in mind when he wrecked his hero on its shores was none other than Tobago, off the northeast coast of South America. But the man whose narrative of adventure Defoe appropriated, Alexander Selkirk, really lived for four years on the island of Juan Fernandez, off the southwest coast of South America. Herein the confusion lies—of having "mixed up” the real hero, Selkirk, with the spurious but better known “Robinson Crusoe,” whose name has been a household word for nearly two centuries. In further proof that Tobago was the scene of the redoubtable Robinson Crusoe's adventures, the natives show a cave—the veritable cave in which he found the dying goat-and the alleged imprints of “Man Friday's” feet on the sands! What Will Be Found in Tobago. Tobago in itself is interesting enough to draw the tourist thither, even without this factitious adventure story. Its climate is delightful, a “perpetual summer” reigning in that favoured island, for the mean temperature is about 80°; but owing to the extensive seaboard the heat is always tempered by cool sea breezes. There is a "wet season,” however, lasting from July to October, when the heat is sometimes oppressive. The annual rainfall varies, and while in the southern portion it does not exceed 60 inches, in the central and "windward” (east- ern) districts it sometimes reaches 100 inches, owing to the forest-covered hills, which precipitate the moisture in the 450 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ever-blowing “trade winds." The island is outside the "hurricane zone,” and tropical cyclones rarely occur. There are no swamps, and malaria should not trouble one; though, truth to tell, there is a variety of intermittent fever, which one should be very careful not to contract, as it is of the veritable “bone-breaking" kind, but amenable to treatment and very rarely fatal. As in all these islands, one should be careful to avoid a chill. Flannels should be worn next the skin, and if the clothes get wet, they should be changed as soon as possible. 452 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES of early dawn, which was itself agreeable, is succeeded by an invigorating warmth. The intense sunshine lights up the glorious vegetation of the tropics and realises all that the magic art of the painter or the glowing words of the poet have pictured as their ideals of terrestrial beauty." Trinidad has been called a mountainous island, but it is, with the exception of a few peaks, more hilly than moun- tainous. It is sufficiently so, however, to present, with its hills and valleys clothed in most luxuriant forests, the acme of the picturesque. Seas of wavy, verdant woodland stretch away from coast to hilltop, shining in an ever-brilliant sun- light, glooming deeply in the valleys, through which meander sparkling streams of crystal clearness. In the summer season this sylvan carpet is bestrewn with glorious flowers, flame- coloured and golden, crimson and yellow, which gives the Trinidadian forest an unreal, vivid beauty that is most en- trancing. The natural features of Trinidad, then, are forest- covered hills ablaze with colour, cool vales in which run rippling rivulets, now and then expanding into streams that dash over great cliffs as cascades and waterfalls; to which must be added curving shores with sandy beaches, outlying isles with water-carved rocks and caves, and the peculiar phe- nomena exhibited by the mud volcanoes” and “pitch lake." According to a local historian, Trinidad is indeed a "land of wonders.” Not only is it an island carved from a con- tinent (South America) but it has a continental fauna and flora. Everything is on a grand scale, though insular in its environment. “We have,” says its historian, "lakes of pitch, streams of tar, oysters growing on trees, an animal resem- bling a fish that produces its young alive, crabs that climb and feed in fruit trees, another fish that entertains us with a concert, and lastly, one kind that is clad in a complete suit of armour.” Columbus and Raleigh both wrote of the oysters that grew on the mangroves and were left high and dry by receding tides; the soldier crab is said to climb trees with ease; the trumpet fish gives forth a resonant sound; and the armour- clad fish is the cascadura, the delicious flavour of which n. akes it an object sought by the epicure. wreat “sport” may be had in Trinidad-much fishing and TRINIDAD 455 cottons, or ceibas, tower above the roadways, as well as in sheltered, shady nooks far from towns and cities; the wide- spreading “banyans” and the parasitic "figs” claim the atten- tion of strangers, from their peculiar appearance, and the aggregated vines of the “rope-tree" excite his wonder. The variety of trees is too great for them to be classified and enumerated here, but enough have been mentioned to indi- cate that variety. Many of the forest trees bear delicious fruits, since some of cultivated varieties have run wild, and there are also natives that yield palatable products; but the plantations and gardens, of course, contain the best. To mention all would be merely to enumerate those to be found between the equator and the northern tropic, for every tropical fruit and vege- table finds in Trinidad a congenial home, as indicated by the following list, which shows their season of perfection: Fruits and Vegetables: When in Season All the Year.- Banana, Breadfruit, Breadnut, Cassava, Cocoanut, Lime, Plantain, Punipkin, Sweet Potato, Pome- granate, Soursop, Tania, Yam. January to March.-Custard Apple, Ground Nut, Maize, Orange, Sapodilla, Sapote. April to July.—Mammy Apple, Star Apple, Pineapple, Ca- shew, Cherry, Guava, Gru-gru, Jimbolin, Jamaica Plum, Tamarind. July to September.-Mammy Apple, Sugar Apple, Balata, Christophine, Cucumber, Guava, Granadilla, Kenip or Genip, Mango, Muskmelon, Watermelon, Malacca Apple, Melon- gene, Orange, Governor Plum, Hog Plum, Java Plum, Rice, Sapodilla, Sapote, Tomato. October to December.-Custard Apple, Golden Apple, Belle Apple, Sugar Apple, Citron, Christophine, Cucumber, For- bidden Fruit, Lemon, Maize, Melongene, Orange, Ochro, Pawpaw, Pois-doux, Pepper, Pigeon Pea, Rice, Shaddock, Tomato. There are, without exaggeration, whole forests of flowers, as one may note in spring and summer time, when the woods are ablaze with colour, cogwood and bois immortelle vying for supremacy. In a few words, the tropical flora of the West Indies finds here its highest expression. 456 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The mineral resources of the island are not extensive, there being no gold, silver, precious stones, no coal in any quan- tity, and little petroleum. But it has an almost exclusive possession in asphalt, mined from the unique and wonder- ful “Pitch Lake,” to the extent of nearly $1,000,000 worth a year. From this product alone the Government derives an income of nearly $200,000 yearly, which will be increased annually for a long time to come. Trinidad's stronghold is agriculture, for with its rich soil, deep and everlasting, and its moist, hot climate, there is nothing that grows within the zones of heat that cannot be produced here in rankest luxuriance. The staple cultivation is, or was, sugar, which stood by the planters for many, many years, but was at last supplanted by cacao, when emancipation reduced the supply of labourers, and bounty-fed beet sugar glutted the markets. Sugar has fallen in value as an export from about $4,000,000 in 1880 to $2,000,000 since the present century opened. Cacao, on the contrary, has increased within ten years from some $2,500,000 to about $5,000,000. The cultivation of the cacao (Theobroma cacao, which furnishes the chocolate of commerce) is inexpensive as compared with sugar-cane, and it is also more delightful, taking one into the cooler, more picturesque regions of the islands, the hill country. Wherever one goes he may see the restless leaves of the cocoanut-palms waving in the air, and on the east side of the island are many thousands of these valuable trees, which yield a good return from their nuts. The export value of cocoanuts averages about $100,000 a year, with perhaps half as much derived from copra and cocoanut oil. Other tropical products may be classed as “minor," as compared with these three staples, for while coffee and tobacco, cotton and rice, rubber and fruits might be exported in great quantities, the truth is they are not. The acreage under cultivation, by the latest statistics, is: Sugar, 60,000 acres; rice, 12,000; cacao, 180,000; coffee, 5,000; rubber, oranges, limes, etc., 2,000; “ground provisions” (tanias, yams, sweet potatoes, etc.), 30,000 acres. The island is about 55 miles in length by 40 in breadth, and its area is estimated at 1,750 square miles, or I 122,880 square acres, of which only about 300,000 acres are SAUS Port of Spain, Trinidad TRINIDAD 457 cultivated. Much of the island consists of uncultivable hills, swamps, etc. ; but allowing for all this, Trinidad yet con- tains a great opportunity for the settler willing to isolate himself from his kind and essay the making of a fortune from this tropical wilderness of a million available acres. The general aspect of Trinidad, says one who is officially connected with its government administration, is that of a comparatively level country, none of its mountains possess- ing the towering grandeur of the lofty peaks which distin- guish the Lesser Antilles. In the three ranges of hills which, running parallel with one another, divide the island into two principal valleys or basins, there are, however, two or three peaks of considerable elevation, such as Tucutche (3,012 feet) in the west and the Cerro de Aripo (2,740) in the east. The central and southern ranges of hills are much less elevated, the highest peak in the former, Tamana, being only a little over 1,000 feet, whilst the highest elevation in the southern range does not much exceed 700 feet. The valleys and plains are watered and drained by several large rivers, supplied by innumerable small tributaries, and the mountain ranges are everywhere deeply indented with ravines and deep gorges, through most of which flow abun- dant streams of water. There cannot be a doubt but that the island owes much of its richness and fertility to these numerous streams, which, flowing through its valleys, cover them with never-fading verdure and beauty.* CITIES AND SETTLEMENTS “Where, down the purple slope that slants Across the hills, the sunrays glance With hot stare through the cocoa-trees, And wine-palms tent beside the seas, There Port-of-Spain, long leagues away, Glows in the mellow mist of day.” Port-of-Spain, Trinidad's capital and only city of conse- quence, occupies a semicircular plain, with an immediate back- ground of beautiful hills, near the northwestern extremity of the island. It owes more to its tropical environment than to its buildings, but fortunately these are embowered in foliage, * From Tëre, the Land of the Humming Bird, by H. J. Clark, F.S.S. 458 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES and it may be called one of the most attractive, as it cer- tainly is one of the busiest, cities in the West Indies. It owes its modern aspect to a destructive conflagration, which consumed nearly 500 houses and rendered homeless almost 5,000 people. But, like most disasters of this sort, this fire was a blessing in disguise, for the frail, palm-thatched struc- tures of the colonial epoch were replaced by substantial buildings of stone. The lanes and by-ways also were widened into broad, straight streets, intersecting one another at right angles and running either north and south or east and west. At the same time they were planted with noble forest trees, so that now they form attractive avenues, which here and there open out into squares and plazas, adorned with fountains and statuary. Such an interesting avenue is Marine “Square,” which ex- tends quite across the city's breadth, nearly 100 feet in width, from a landing-wharf to the Dry River. Another notable square is Brunswick, near the centre of the city, which in Spanish times was known as the Plaza de Armas, and in French as the Place d'Armes. It is surrounded with great trees, and in its centre is a fine fountain of bronze, the gift of a one-time resident and landed proprietor, Gregor Turn- bull. Port-of-Spain's merchants were, and are, of the princely kind, whose trading with distant ports gave them broad views and elevated sentiments. This may be said also of its estate proprietors, to whom is due much of the city's rapid growth after the great fires of 1808 and 1895; and they were ably seconded by the various colonial governors sent out from England. Columbus Square, for example, owes its handsome fountain to a wealthy cacao proprietor, and its distinguishing appellation to a creditable statue of the great discoverer. Tranquillity Square is another “breathing-space" of the city, spacious and enclosed, planted with trees and ornamental shrubs. While composed in great part of unattractive buildings, Port-of-Spain can boast many excellent structures, which it would be worth the visitor's while to visit and examine. The Anglican Cathedral, on Brunswick Square, is a fine Gothic, - stone, with a roof of island woods, excellent carvings by drittive, a magnificent organ, and a chime of eight bells. 460 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES country.” On the other hand, its defenders have not failed to point out its effectiveness in the past, and (notably Mr. Froude, in his English in the West Indies) that England has borne the bulk of expenses during more than a hundred years, maintained its defensive works and forces, and pro- vided the colony with a market, as well as reimbursed it for losses entailed by fires and the emancipation of the slaves. The council chamber in the government building is a spacious room with an ornamental ceiling of native woods, and contains a stained-glass window with an historical scene, the “Landing of Columbus at Trinidad,” in which the dis- coverer is represented as planting the standard of Spain, while an aboriginal Indian peers through tropical foliage in the background. Municipal ownership has had a beginning in Port-of-Spain, the city holding title to its three excellent markets (eastern, western, and southern), and as well a magnificent cocoanut estate (the “Cocal," at Mayaro), and the islands of Monos, Huevos, Chacachacare, and Patos, at the “Bocas.” The city contains such beneficent institutions as the public library, founded in 1851, with nearly 30,000 volumes, which is supported by subscriptions and an annual grant from government; and the Victoria Institute and Museum, founded in commemoration of the late queen, which was opened in 1892. Here may be seen a fine collection illustrating the island's fauna and flora, ornithology and conchology being especially well represented. As indicating the advanced status of the residents, it may be mentioned that the Institute is the headquarters of an Agricultural Board, of the Scientific Association and Medical Council, a Field Naturalists' Club, and a Literary Association, all flourishing and well attended at their regular meetings. The enterprise and energy of these sub-tropical residents of Trinidad's capital is well illustrated in commercial life, for the city is filled with large and well-stocked stores, the owners of which are as alive to the needs of the times, in advertising and displays of goods, as any business men that live in northern climes. Immense stocks are carried by those who have dealings with Venezuelan towns and settlements, TRINIDAD 461 especially on the Orinoco and in the peninsula of Paria, and, owing to their dealings direct with the marts of England and Europe, articles of wear and for everyday use may be obtained here at lower prices than in the United States. Especially is this true of apparel necessary for use in the tropics, such as East Indian pith helmets, linen suits, etc. "Foodstuffs,” particularly “tinned goods," coming mostly from England and the United States, are slightly higher in price than in the places of their production; but liquors of every description, as wines, whiskeys, cordials, etc., are almost alarmingly low. A special product of the region, which may be properly mentioned in this connection, is that widely known appetiser, “Angostura bitters,” which, though for many years manufactured at the Venezuelan town on the Orinoco from which it derives its name, is now produced in vast quantities by the sons of the original inventor, or discoverer, at their large establishment in Port-of-Spain. All the buildings mentioned, the chief stores, the banks, the post-office, town hall, law courts, and the government offices are contained in the southern portion of the city, which on Sundays and holidays “is almost as quiet and deserted as the 'city' part of London.” There are several good hotels within the city limits; also an excellent "ice-house,” restau- rants and clubs; but the leading officials, the merchants, the well-to-do citizens in general, reside in the northern part of the city or in the suburbs, where their modest villas and handsome mansions are set amidst attractive grounds, flower adorned, and embowered in ever-verdurous trees. Interesting as Port-of-Spain may be to the visitor, it cannot be denied that the local climate is sultry at times, and op- pressively hot in the middle of the day, while the street odours are not always those of "Araby the Blest!” That carrion abounds in the city and immediate suburbs is evi- denced by the ever-present carrion crows or turkey-buzzards, which are rigidly protected as city scavengers, and in conse- quence possess a boldness, and even obtrusiveness, that is sometimes resented by the visitor. Should he, however, carry his resentment so far as to slay or maim one of these repulsive scavengers he would certainly be haled before the local bar of justice and imprisoned or heavily fined. 462 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES PRINCIPAL CAB FARES AROUND AND ABOUT Port-of-SPAIN, FROM 6 A.M. TO 6 P.M. CAB FARES TO OR FROM Queen's Park Hotel Railway Station St. Vincent Jetty s. d. 2 3 I 9 s. d. 2 3 I I I 01 St. James' Barracks........ Botanic Gardens.............. Queen's Park Hotel.... Red House(Government Offices) Colonial Hospital.... Broadway.... Jetty, St. Vincent Wharf.. Lunatic Asylum... Queen's Park, N. W. corner... All Saints Church.. ...... Railway Station............... Woodbrook ...... I Botanic Gardens wow OOOOo awal oooooooo' wa ܘܘ ܘ ܘ ܘ ' ܘ ܘ ܚ ܘ ܚ I I I I I 6 Round the Savanna, 2/3 Round Circular Road and back........... 4/3 Blue Basin and back, $5.00 Maraccas Fall....... 7.00 Round the Saddle... 6.00 Broadway to Maraval Reservoir .......... 41 Broadway to Cocorite, 2/6 Broadway to Four Roads.............. 4/3 Inhabitants of Trinidad. Trinidad contains to-day not far from 300,000 inhabitants, of whom about 60,000 reside in Port-of-Spain and its suburbs. It is said to present a greater diversity in population than any inhabited land of equal area in America. Added to the aborigines, after 1499, were Spaniards; then French (mainly in the eighteenth century), English, Venezuelans (a hybrid stock, with Indian, negro, and Spanish blood in its veins), Africans, and, finally, East Indians and Chinese. By far the most interesting people dwelling here are the East Indians, chiefly coolies brought here under indentures for labour on the plantations. They now constitute fully --third the entire population, of which thousands of those whose terms of service have expired now form an integral TRINIDAD 463 part. They form, as it were, a people within a people, for they have not, like the Chinese, intermarried with the negroes, nor do they assimilate in any manner with the dominant races. The beginning of the Coolie immigration was in 1839, when agents were sent to Calcutta to regulate the exportation of labourers, who were brought under indentured terms of ser- vice of at first three years, extended to five in 1844. That they have been, in a sense, the salvation of Trinidad almost everybody admits, for at the time of their introduction the island was suffering from a dearth of labourers, and their coming rescued the planters from poverty. They have sup- plied, too, a picturesque element, which is congruous with the tropical scenery, so far as their costumes go, though their habitations are not so attractive as those of the negroes. They may be seen in every street, in every section of the island, and their villages in such localities as Woodbrook, on the road to the Blue Basin, in San Fernando, etc. Port-of-Spain and Its Suburbs. Owing to the shallow waters of the Gulf of Paria, that wash the shores of Trinidad, steamers of great tonnage cannot approach within two miles or more of the capital, so the landing of passengers is accom- plished by the aid of small boats or launches. Aside from the arrangements made for their passengers' convenience by the various lines of steamers, the city governing board has done its best to protect visitors from extortion by a tariff of fares, to which the boatmen are obliged to adhere, as follows: For any distance up to 1/4 mile from lighthouse jetty, each passenger, 6d..... .......... 12 cents For any distance within 1/2 mile, each, Is.......... 24 cents Beyond 12 mile, but within harbour limits, each, 25. .48 cents Beyond harbour limits, for every mile or part, each 36 cents These charges include a wait alongside boat of not more than fifteen minutes; no abatement in case of no return. For a boat with four oars fare will be double. Each passen- ger is allowed one package and such small articles as he can carry in hand. For each additional package, 6 cents. On Sundays, and from 6 P.M. to 6 A.M. on week days, double fares. The regulations under the "Harbours Ordinance” are that no boatman may- 468 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES finds, indeed, a microcosm of the tropical botanical world, and need seek no farther for an exposition in miniature of its wonders. Should you desire to view it as a whole, and at the same time obtain a glimpse of its entrancing environment, climb to the little kiosk perched upon an eminence near the cen- tre of the grounds, about 300 feet above the level of the plain. “Behind, tower the densely wooded hills, 1,000 feet in height; below lie the beautiful gardens, or rather, such glimpses of them as can be seen through the dense mass of foliage formed by innumerable tree-tops, while directly in front is the beautiful, verdant Savanna, with its wide extent of greensward and its many noble trees. It stretches away until it meets the suburbs of the city—the outlines only- for little else save the church-spires and the house-tops stand out clearly amongst the sea of foliage. “To the east the view is closed by a spur of the northern hills, its slopes wooded to the very crest; while to the west the eye rests on a scene that is as picturesque as impressive. In the foreground is the St. Clair pasture and rifle range (another green strip of meadow land), while beyond are seen the deep blue waters of the ever placid Gulf of Paria, with the lovely Five Islands' looking like green specks on the blue expanse; and far away, mid the mist on the western horizon, the shadowy outlines of the Venezuelan mountains. The view is indeed a lovely one; and while the eye is now and then attracted for a moment to the white wings of some passing vessel, or the smoke-curls of a steamer glid- ing swiftly across the bit of blue, yet it quickly returns to scan, with ever-increasing delight, the beautiful landscape in all its peaceful glory, and those lovely islets that form so charming a feature in the picture.” “Rocklets of ocean, so bright in your green, Bosomed on Paria's stormless breast, How many mem'ries of times that have been Linger around ye, sweet Isles of the West.” Canon Kingsley, who visited Trinidad a few years before his death, says, in his At Last: a Christmas in the West Indies: "This Paradise--for such it is—is somewhat TRINIDAD 469 too far from the city; and one passes in it few people save an occasional brown nurse. But when Port-of-Spain be- comes, as it surely will, a great commercial city, and the slopes of Laventille, Belmont, and St. Anne's, just above the gardens, are studded (as they surely will be) with the villas of rich merchants, then will the generous gift of English governors be appreciated and used; and the Botanic Gar- dens will become a Tropic Garden of the Tuileries, alive at five o'clock every evening with human flowers of every hue.” The prescient perception of Kingsley foretold what has now come to pass, for Port-of-Spain is becoming a great commercial city; the villas of its merchant princes now adorn the hills and border St. Ann's Road, and the gardens no longer exist in solitary state, for they have become a re- sort of all, both high and low. “Distance” is no longer a factor to be reckoned with, since the “electric tramway” has devoured it, and for the insignificant sum of “twopence,'' or 4 cents, one may journey thither from the city quickly, safely, and frequently. Here is the schedule, as set forth by the “Trinidad Electric Company, Limited,” which offers a "fifteen minutes' service," as follows: 1. From the railway station via Charlotte Street, Park Street, and Tragarete Road, westward to Four Roads. Fare for the whole distance, 8 cents by ticket or 12 cents cash. 2. From the railway station via St. Vincent Street, Park Street, St. Ann's Road, thence through Belmont. Fare, 4 cents by ticket. 3. From the railway station via Frederick Street, then along the east side of the Savanna, going northward into St. Ann's Valley. Fare, 4 cents by ticket. 4. From railway station via Frederick Street, entering the Savanna and skirting the southern and western ends of it, as far as Maraval corner, 4 cents by ticket. 5. The belt route, round the Savanna, 4 cents by ticket. “Tickets are purchasable at the Transfer Station, Park Street, and from car conductors, at the rate of 6 for 24 cents. Passengers travelling without tickets must pay 6 cents; but any one may change from one route to another without extra charge, except as regards the ‘Belt circuit-to which no 470 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES transfer is allowed. It is therefore possible to ride from Cocorite to Belmont, a distance of about 4 miles, for as many cents.” That statement answers fully the question of transporta- tion. And that the people of Trinidad have appreciated both the beauties of the Queen's Park and the gardens is shown by the gatherings there, on afternoons, Sundays, and holidays. From the verandas of the Queen's Park Hotel of an afternoon may be viewed the many assemblages of athletic Trinidadians, including the local golf, cricket (though the cricket grounds are nearer the city), volunteer militia, polo, and turf clubs. The “human flowers of every hue” are certainly prone now to gather here, as Kingsley pre- dicted they would, and they include such exotics as East- Indian coolies, Chinese, negroes whose ancestors were not long since residents of Africa; Portuguese, Venezuelans and other South-Americans, Yankees, and “Blue-Noses.” For the distance is no longer insuperable, and the combined at- tractions are such as few towns, whether insular or conti- nental, can boast. A long-felt desideratum for Trinidad, a really first-class hotel with salubrious surroundings that would induce one to stay the season through, was supplied when the Queen's Park Hotel was constructed. It overlooks the beautiful, park-like Savanna from which it takes its name, and has accommodations for 150 guests, with every modern im- provement and luxury at command. The electric cars pass the hotel every fifteen minutes, taking one to the wharves and railway station, with transfers to all points in town and the suburbs, while luxurious carriages are always available. Lest one might seem invidious, in speaking of hotels, it should be mentioned, at least, that there are, in all, seven- teen in the city alone, which, together with four or five boarding-houses, furnish ample accommodations for the most fastidious tourist. The city is completely equipped also with electric lights, telephones, electric cars (already described) and every "up-to-date" contrivance for minister- ing to the wants of a twentieth-century community. Cable nnection, by the “West-India and Panama Telegraph Company,” is furnished with all the islands, with North and TRINIDAD 475 RAILWAY FARES BETWEEN PORT-OF-SPAIN AND ALL STATIONS BETWEEN RETURN TICKETS SINGLE TICKETS O Dis- . ist 2d 3d Ist 2d 3d PORT-OF-SPAIN AND tances Class Class Class Class Class Class Miles $ c. $ c. $ c. $ c. $ c. $ c. San Juan .......... 4 0 36 0 24 0 12 0 24 0 16 0 08 St. Joseph ...... ... 7 0 63 0 42 0 2 0 42 I unapuna ......... 9 0 81 0 54 0 27 0 54 0 36 0 18 Tacarigua 0 90 0 60 0 30 0 60 0 40 0 20 Arouca ............12 I 08 I 08 0 72 0 36 0 72 0 48 0 Dabadie ...........14 I 26 26 084 0 42 0 84 056 Arima .............16 I 44 0 96 0 48 0 96 Guanapo ..... .....19 I 71 Cumuto ..... 0 69 1 38 Guaico 58 0 83 1 61 1 05 Sangre Grande .....29 1 61 0 84 1 64 1 07 Caroni ............11 0 66 0 33 0 66 0 44 0 Cunupia ...........14 I 26 0 84 0 42 0 84 0 56 0 28 Jerningham Junction 15 I 35 I 0 90 0 45 0 90 0 60 0 30 Longdenville .....18 1 62 62 I 08 0 54 I 08 0 72 0 36 Todd's Road .......21 1 89 I 26 0 63 I 26 0 84 042 *Caparo ...........23 2 07 I 38 o 69 1 38 0 92 *Brasso Caparo ...27 2 35 I 55 0 80 1 55 I 57 I 03 053 Tabaquite ..30 2 52 I 62 086 68 I 08 057 Chaguanas 18 I 62 I 08 0 54 I 08 0 72 0 36 Carapichaima ..... I 89 I 26 0 63 I 26 0 84 042 Couva 2 25 I 50 0 75 I 50 I 00 0 50 California ..........27 2 35 I 55 0 80 1 57 I 03 0 53 Claxton Bay ...... .30 2 52 I 62 o 86 I 68 I Pointe-à-Pierre... 32 2 63 I 67 0 90 I 75 II 0 60 San Fernando ......35 2 79 I 74 0 97 1 86 I 16 Union .............35 2 79 I 74 0 97 I 86 I 16 Reform ............37 2 90 I 79 I 02 I 93 I 190 Williamsville ......39 3 00 I 85 1 6 2 00 I 23 0 70 Princes Town .....43 3 23 I 94 I 14 2 15 I 29 0 76 0000.0 OOOOOOO OOOOOO-HOOOOOOOO St. Joseph, Founded 1584. Leaving the railway wharf in Port-of-Spain, the road strikes due east, the first town of importance on the line being St. Joseph, the oldest settle- ment in the island, founded by Spaniards in 1584, from whom it was captured by Sir Walter Raleigh, in 1595. It is not so interesting a place that the tourist would care to linger long. The residence-house of the Valsayn estate here, still standing, contains relics of the old Spanish times, and in its drawing-room the treaty of capitulation between Don 476 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Chacon and Abercromby was signed, in 1797. Raleigh and his men, landing from boats in which they had come up the Caroni River, marched through the Valsayn orchards (tradition says) when on their way to fire the town. These orchards are filled with tropical fruit-trees, including many exotics from India and other quarters of the globe. The old cemetery here will interest the antiquarian, as it has quaint tombstones of the Spanish period, and the Roman Catholic church contains fine windows and a marble altar imported from Europe. In connection with this church is the oldest society in the island, that of the Santissima Her- manidad, which has preserved records since its foundation, in 1644. Caura Valley and Waterfall. We are now in the country of sugar-cane, the vast estates and works connected with which are well worthy inspection. The railway line to the south branches off at St. Joseph; but we will continue due east, toward its termination at Arima. All the way along we could not but have perceived and admired the numerous lateral valleys, such as Santa Cruz and Caura, which descend from the mountains on the north, or left-hand side of the railway. "To come to the island on pleasure and stay any length of time without taking a ride up Caura Valley would be a downright sin,” says the author of an excellent Guide to Trinidad, Mr. J. H. Collens. The trail up this delicious val- ley is taken at the estate of El Dorado, from which runs a bridle-path, some 7 miles in length, succeeded by a foot- path for a mile and a quarter through the virgin forest. At the end of this toilsome journey you are richly rewarded, for there bursts into sight a splendid cascade, more than 300 feet in height, of a greater volume than that of Maraccas (which is seen at its best only in the rainy season) and forming a beautiful basin at its foot of clear, cold water. The succeeding stations, Tunapuna, Tacarigua, and Arouca, remind us of the departed Indians, for they are all aborigi- nal names, the bestowers of which were gradually driven from the west coast eastward, until their final stand was made on the heights of Arima. There they long resided in “missions," presided over by Spanish officials, each head TRINIDAD 477 of a family owning a conuco, or small plantation. Annually on August 29th, they held a fête day, that of Santa Rosa, which attracted to Arima the inhabitants of the country for many miles around. Arima is in the fertile cacao country, sugar estates having given way to the more attractive plantations containing trees adorned by nature with their peculiar fruit, growing as well upon the trunks as on the branches. Cacao cultivation may be studied here, and the process of curing the beans and pre- paring them for the market. Beyond Arima is a most in- teresting country, the fascinating East Coast being reached from this point over a road and trail, to which allusion will be made further on. Alligator Shooting. We will now return to the southern branch of the railway—or rather, the main line, which, after diverging between St. Joseph and Tunapuna, crosses the Caroni. This river is noted for its facilities for shooting such "game” as alligator; wild duck, heron, and other aquatic fowl being very abundant, as also those peculiar fish encased in armour, the cascaduras. It is the custom of hunters, in order to save themselves an uninteresting water- journey, to send their boats around from the Capital, to the great iron bridge, or the nearby estate of McLeod Plain, where their guides await them. Such sport as they obtain needs be experienced to be appreciated, and is well de- scribed in the beautiful Book of Trinidad, recently issued, under the heading “A Day's Sport on the Caroni.” Iguanas and boa constrictors haunt the mangroves bordering the Caroni, and exciting adventures may be in store for one who takes this hunting trip, almost within sight of the Gulf of Paria. Estuary of the Caroni. “The estuary of the Caroni is almost imperceptible to the stranger, owing to the many bends in the river and the long stretch of mangrove swamp through which it meanders, presenting an almost unbroken coast line for many miles. It is, however, sufficiently well marked out to the boatmen, who take shooting parties thither, and to the mangrove woodsman, whose search for daily bread induces him to pass half his days in the swamps, cutting firewood and making charcoal, indispensable to Trinidad TRINIDAD 479 half that of San Fernando, which is 7,600. Between the two towns there is both rail and tramway communication, and two main roads available. The many sugar estates in this region find their common outlet (if it may be so termed) in the great central factory, or usine, of St. Madeleine, the largest in the West Indies, and which is capable of turning out 15,000 tons of sugar annually. Distances from San Fernando to Miles | Miles Pitch Lake. .............1572 Mud Volcanoes ...!I Mayaro by Savanna La Brea, by sea.... ...II Grande .............42 Guapo, by sea ...........18 Police Station, Princes Cap-de-Ville, by sea.....23 Town .............. 72/3 |Cedros, by sea .........31 The Devil's Woodyard. The chief attraction of Princes Town consists in a group of "mud volcanoes," at a little distance from the settlement, to reach which a guide is neces- sary, and may be obtained for a few shillings. The negroes call the devastated area, in which lie the dry and bleached branches and trunks of trees, the “Devil's Woodyard," and are shy about visiting its vicinity after dark, on account of the “jombies,” or evil spirits, which are supposed to haunt it. There was a volcanic eruption here as late as 1887, after which what was formerly merely a "flat and bare mud circle of about a hundred yards in diameter” was dotted with mud mounds, or tiny craters, about 3 feet in height, from which ooze streams of muddy water with a strong odour of asphalt. As it is not far distant from the great Pitch Lake, there is supposed, of course, to be subterranean connection between the latter and the mud volcanoes. Stretching southward from the hill ranges back of Savanna Grande is the Oropuche region, filled with swamp and forest, "teeming with game and rich with tropical vegetation.” East- ward from Monkey Town extends a rough road, the "Mayaro Trace,” which runs to Mayaro Bay, on the Atlantic coast, and offers vast possibilities to the botanist, ornithologist, and lover of nature in general. In fact, there is no island of the West Indies, perhaps, which can hold out so many entice- ments in this respect. The High Woods and East Coast. Though the ordinary TRINIDAD 481 Arima to the “Cocal.” From Arima all the way to the east coast, a matter of between 20 and 25 miles, you will have a magnificence of scenery for which any amount of “roughing it" would not be too high a price to pay. A guide as well as horses should be taken, for though the “trace" is broad, and in the dry season open enough, still, there are rivers to cross and perhaps fallen trees to get around, which, with their bewildering wealth of vines and air plants, orchids, and lianas (forming an entire forest of themselves), may divert the unwary from the trail. And once astray in those vast and gloomy High Woods none but a woodsman could rescue one not to the manner born. Few are the pens gifted enough to describe the wealth of vegetation one sees in these forests. Such men as Humboldt, perhaps; Bates, of Amazon fame, and Charles Kingsley have made attempts at complete descriptions; but even these masters of technical language have failed to convey pictures that can only be sensed through personal observation or imaged by the camera. Trinidad's Classic. The classic work on Trinidad is Canon Kingsley's At Last, and the best part of that wonder- ful book is that containing his descriptions of the High Woods and wild nature generally. No one has approached His work in this direction, and hence we may be pardoned, presumably, for quoting from it, in lieu of attempting what to the ordinary author might be beyond his capabilities. “My first feeling on entering the High Woods,” he says, "was one of helplessness, confusion, awe, all but terror. One is afraid at first to venture 50 yards. Without a com- pass or the landmark of some opening to or from which he can look, a man must be lost in the first ten minutes, such a sameness is there in the infinite variety. That same- ness and variety make it impossible to give any general sketch of the forest. Once inside, ‘you cannot see the wood for the trees.' You can only wander as far as you dare, letting each object impress itself on your mind as it may, and carrying away a confused recollection of innumerable perpendicular lines, all straining upward, in fierce competi- tion, toward that light food far above; and, next, of a green cloud, or rather mist, which hovers round your head and rises, thickening and thickening, to an unknown height TRINIDAD 483 first at the top of the piece which he wants and not at the bottom; for so rapid is the ascent of the sap that if he cut the stem below, the water would have all fled upwards before he could have cut it off above. "Meanwhile, the old story of 'Jack and the Bean-stalk' comes into your mind. In such forest was the old dame's hut, and up such a 'bean-stalk' Jack climbed, to find a giant and a castle high above. Why not? What may not be up there? You look up into the green cloud and long for a moment to be a monkey. There may be monkeys up there over your head, burly red howlers or tiny, peevish sapajou, peering down at you; but you cannot peer up at them. The monkeys and the parrots and the humming-birds and the flowers and all the beauty are upstairs, up above the green cloud. You are in the 'empty nave of the cathedral,' and the service is being celebrated aloft in the blazing roof.” In such manner raves the naturalist, who sees 10,000 rare and beautiful objects, which are missed by the ordinary observer. We have not time to examine them all, for it would take almost a lifetime to do so. But stay; let us take one other look through the eyes of this acute observer. It is in the Northern Mountains, of which he says: “No words of mine can give an adequate picture of the beauty of the streams and glens which run down from their slopes on either side. The reader must fancy for himself the loveliest brook he ever saw-crystal clear, bedded with grey pebbles, broken into rapids by rock-ledges or great white quartz bowlders, swirling under steep cliffs, winding through flats of natural meadow and copse. Then let him transport his stream into the great palm-house at Kew, stretch out the house, up hill and down dale, 5 miles in length and 2,000 feet in height; pour down upon it from above a blaze which lights up every leaf into a gem and deepens every shadow into blackness and yet that very blackness full of inner light-and if his fancy can do as much as that, he can imagine to himself the stream up which we rode or walked, now winding along a narrow track a hundred feet or two above, looking down on the upper surface of the forest, on the crests of palms and the broa 484 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES sheets of the balisier copse, and often on the statelier fronds of true bananas, which had run wild along the stream-side, flowering and fruiting in the wilderness for the benefit of the parrots and agutis (wild hares); or on the huge clumps of bamboo, which (probably not indigenous to the island) have in like manner spread themselves along all the streams in the lapse of ages.” Cocoa-Palms of the Atlantic Coast. Such is the scenery along the “trace" between Arina and the Atlantic coast of Trinidad. Once there, the visitor sees a different phase of nature's handiwork, for the sand-beach, upon which beat the Atlantic surges perpetually, is lined with cocoa-palms, in one single stretch 16 miles of them; and here is opened up another natural industry of the island, for millions and millions of nuts are shipped from Mayaro Bay, where is the only safe harbour of the eastern coast. These palms are said to have sprung from nuts cast ashore by the wrecking of an East Indiaman 200 years ago; and now, as in aboriginal times, the planters here gain a good living from the natural produce of the soil. It is a wild country, swampy and forest covered, that of the east coast, and here, if anywhere, the hunter's para- dise on earth may be found, for in the lagoons and bayous dwell huge caimans, or man-eating alligators; manati, or sea-cows; boa constrictors and anacondas, sometimes 30 feet in length, while the waters swarm with fish that are edible as well as fiercely carnivorous. EXCURSIONS BY WATER Many an excursion by water may be made from Port-of- Spain, for the Gulf of Paria is generally smooth and tran- quil and its shores are dotted with most interesting places. These excursions may be long or short-to the islands that lie within sight of the city or extended to the magnitude of real voyages, as up the mighty Orinoco or along the north coast of Venezuela, to the Pearl Islands, La Guayra, Puerto Cabello and Curaçao. A Trip to the Bocas. There are several rocky islets be- tween the capital and the Caribbean Sea, the nearest being ile “Five Islands,” due west of the wharves, where vessels TRINIDAD 485 coming from infected ports are quarantined. Beyond these are the Bocas (Spanish for mouths or entrance-ways), the largest of which, Boca Grande, or Drago—the Dragon- gives ingress from the Caribbean, and is the one through which Christopher Columbus made his way out, in the year 1498. These waterways separate several beautiful islands, where the scenery is most quaint, great water-worn cliffs standing with their feet in a tranquil sea, sand-beaches, shell strewn, overhung with tropical vines, shrubs and trees, and caves inhabited by vampire bats and sea birds. On the way to the Bocas a stop is made at Carreras, at the entrance to Chaguaramas Bay, a deep and protected harbour filled with wrecks of ancient war and treasure ships (local legends have it), to raise or explore which would be likely to reward an energetic diver with vast amounts of gold and silver. The first islet that has shores on both the Gulf and Caribbean is Monos, or Monkey Island, which, together with the next in line, Huevos, or Egg Island, belongs to the bor- ough council of the capital. There are houses for rent on both islands, as well as on Chacachacare, the outermost of the trio, which protrudes into the Boca Grande. One might do worse than tarry here a while, where the smooth sand- beaches offer pleasant bathing-places, the bays within the Gulf having still water and those without the most rollicking of surfs. The waters, too, are alive with fish, of tropical beauty and abundance, and the air is somewhat cooler than in steaming Port-of-Spain. This is speaking relatively; but as to scenery one may utter the positive dictum that it is superlative! Cave of the Guacharos. On Huevos is a celebrated cave, entrance to which can only be made when the sea is smooth, as the rocks come down so near its surface. Once within, the visitor might imagine himself in an inferno, for the cave will be filled with wild cries and the whirring of in- numerable wings, as its inhabitants are startled from their roosting-places. These inhabitants are those very rare Guacharos, locally known as Diablotin, or Devil-birds (Steatornis caripensis), a species of goatsucker. The gour- mands of Trinidad esteem it as a great bon bouche, though it is so extremely fat that the natives of Paria seek it 01 - 488 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES The best hotels in the capital and the business houses have lists of these dwellings. The Pitch Lake and La Brea. The grand show of Trinidad, of course, is the fanious Pitch Lake; which, by the way, is neither a lake nor is it filled with pitch, but asphaltum. A new steamer, the Naparima, runs southward from San Fernando, in connection with the trains arriving at that place, and on the return trip with those from San Fernando for Port-of-Spain. The trip by government steamer direct would be preferable, but it does not run every day, and the combined land and water journey is interesting. We have described the rail journey as far as San Fernando, beyond which La Brea, or Brighton, the Pitch Lake port, is less than an hour distant by water. The cost by boat is, with lunch, round trip, $2.50; incidentals about $1.00; by rail and boat, round trip, $3.66. Time tables are appended herewith: STEAMER TIME TABLE BETWEEN SAN FERNANDO AND CEDROS (Subject to alteration at any time.) Mon. Tues. Wed. Thurs. Sat. Down P.M. P.M. P.M. A.M. A.M. In connection with train arriving at... 1.51 1.51 1.51 9.19 9.19 San Fernando dep.... 2.06 2.45 2.06 9.35 9.35 La Brea, Brighton dep. 2.50 3.30 2.50 10.20 10.20 Guapo dep........... 3.20 4.00 3.20 10.50 10.50 Cap-de-Ville dep.... 3.35 4.15 3.35 I1.05 11.05 Irois dep............. 3.50 4.30 3.50 11.20 11.20 Cedros dep........... 4.20 5.00 4.20 12 noon 12 noon Icacos arr..... 5.35 Mon. Tues. WED. THURS. Sat. A.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. P.M. Icacos dep............ 7.30 4.00 Cedros dep........... 4.30 8.05 4.30 4.40 7.15 1.15 Irois dep............. 5.05 8.40 5.05 5.10 1.45 1.45 Cap-de-Ville dep..... 5.20 8.55 5.20 5.25 2.00 2.00 Guapo ciep............ 5.35 9.20 5.35 5.40 2.15 2.15 La Brea, Brighton dep. 6.05 9.50 6.05 6.10 2.45 2.45 San Fernando arr.... 7.05 10.50 7.05 7.00 3.45 3.45 In connection with train leaving at..... 7.26 11.40 7.26 4.10 4.10 4.55 TRINIDAD 489 The trip might be made in connection with that to San Fernando and the Mud Volcanoes, as there are three hotels in the former place, though not to be compared with the best in Port-of-Spain. An early start is advised, to "do". the “lake" before the sun gets, we will not say hot, for it is always that, but rather extremely hot, for the humidity of the Pitch Lake region is something almost unendurable. So much has been written of this “seventh wonder" of the West Indies (which, however, Kingsley declared was no wonder at all, but a very natural phenomenon) that little if anything has been left for one to say, except in repetition. It is said to have been discovered (or at least was found out) by Sir Walter Raleigh when he came into the Gulf of Paria in 1595. He "payed” his vessels with the pitch, of which he declared there was sufficient for all the vessels of the world for centuries to come. It was near La Brea, by the way, that Raleigh discovered the “oisters" growing on trees, the report of which discovery in England caused many to doubt his veracity. The “lake” covers more than 100 acres, and doubtless con- tains an inexhaustible supply, for as fast as the bitumen is extracted, the holes from which it is taken fill up rapidly- a perpetual-movement arrangement which is very satisfactory to the government, as it affords a perpetual income for its treasury. It was on February 1, 1888, that the Trinidad government, having learned what a treasure it had in this vast deposit, leased it for a period of forty-two years, on the easy terms of a minimum annual export of 46,000 tons, with annual minimum revenue of £15,333 for the first twenty-one years; and for the second twenty-one years an annual mini- mum of 30,000 tons, with revenue at least £30,000, or an estimated total of not less than £500,000 for the lease. This concession was at first bitterly opposed; but the wisdom of it has since been acknowledged, for from self-interest the company receiving the lease has extracted and exported vastly in excess of the prescribed minimum, so that the annual revenue has been more than treble the stipulated sum. In the year 1905, for example, it was over $215,000, and went far toward reducing the public debt; which, by the way, is rather large, for such a small territory as Trinid ; 490 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES Where the Asphalt Comes From The Pitch Lake may be a "wonder”; but it does not so impress the visitor, who sees merely a level surface, for all the world like a tract of asphalt pavement stretched out into an area of acres, with here and there a patch of muddy water. "Possessing as it does,” says one writer, "an air of feverish desolation, not far removed from the 'abomination' spoken of by the prophet, the Pitch Lake does not encourage a lengthened stay. . .. The semi-solid 'pitch' rises in patches like small 'sheep- backs,' or moutonées, having gullies or fissures between them filled with water. The sides of the watery seams shelve toward each other wedge-fashion, and in the centre vary from 2 to 12 feet in breadth and from 1 to 5 feet in depth. In the innermost part of the lake the pitch becomes softer, emitting an unpleasant, sulphurous odour; the lightest foot- mark leaves an impression, and you will find yourself almost imperceptibly sinking unless you continue constantly in motion. Here and there liquid pitch may be observed oozing out; you may handle it with impunity, and, curiously, it does not soil the fingers, the old proverb that you cannot touch pitch without being defiled, to the contrary notwith- standing. ..." A curious tradition recorded in Joseph's History of Trini- dad relates that this spot was formerly dry land, and that it was selected by the Indians for their village of wigwams because of the numerous pineapples (which still grow here luxuriantly, imbedded in pitch), large flocks of birds, and abundance of fish. When, however, these aborigines wantonly destroyed the beautiful humming-birds, which they believed were animated by the souls of their departed relatives, the Good Spirit, taking an awful vengeance upon them for their impiety, in one night destroyed the whole encampment, which, with its sacrilegious inhabitants, sank out of sight. Next day nothing was visible except the Pitch Lake, which occupied the spot where the Indians had lived. It has been estimated by geologists that the vast deposit of bitumen here amounts to at least 4,500,000 tons, and is practically inexhaustible. The original concession was granted to an American company, the well-known Barber halt Company. Through their energetic and intelligent TRINIDAD 493 the Gulf of Paria, he became acquainted with the natives, who were similar to the Caribs living to the north and south of them, and who freely came to trade with the first white people they had ever seen. They called their island “Tëre," or the “Land of Humming-birds,” an appellation which, from the myriads of those winged gems of the air, sporting in the verdant forests, it well merited. The fas- cinating adventures of Columbus and his crews are de- scribed at length in his Life, by Washington Irving; and we will dismiss our hero merely with the remark that he sailed out of the Gulf of Paria through another dangerous passage, which he called La Boca del Dragon, the Dragon's Mouth. Thence, after coasting the north shores of Paria and discovering the since famous Pearl Islands, he de- parted for Santo Domingo, sailing across the Caribbean Sea. Closely following after Columbus came another famous navigator, Amerigo Vespucci, who, in company with Alonzo de Ojeda and Juan de la Cosa, skirted Trinidad, visited the Pearl Islands, and discovered Venezuela. Spanish explorers frequently touched in at Trinidad during the early years of the sixteenth century, such as Pinzon, who discovered the Amazon, and Solis, who discovered the Rio de la Plata; but nearly thirty years went by before attempts were made to colonise the island and nearly ninety before a permanent colony was established. A Spaniard, Don Antonio de Berrio y Oruña, landed here with a force of soldiers drawn from New Grenada and founded a town about 6 miles inland, at the junction of two rivers, which he named “San José de Oruña,” after himself. He made his settlement inland because the usual landing-place on the Gulf of Paria, known as the Puerto de los Hispañoles (now Port-of-Spain), was exposed to the attacks of Dutch and English corsairs, who were then very numerous in the Caribbean, especially along the Spanish Main. But this precaution did not save his settlement, for about ten years after it was founded Don Antonio was attacked by English soldiers, commanded by Sir Walter Raleigh, and, after a humiliating defeat, com- pelled to witness the destruction of San José by fire. The advent of Raleigh at Trinidad was the sequel to a most romantic tradition prevalent among the Spaniards, 494 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES relating to El Dorado. Somehow this tradition had reached Sir Walter, probably through English privateers he had himself outfitted, and he did not rest until he had sailed for the region alleged to be El Dorado, or the Country of the Gilded King. It was situated, according to the Spaniards, in Guiana, beyond the Orinoco Mountains, and as Trinidad commanded the mouths of the Orinoco, Sir Walter made that island his base of operations. He took and destroyed San José, as a precaution against leaving an enemy in the rear, while his boats went up the Orinoco exploring; but he treated Don Antonio with consideration, and obtained from him a verification of the story. In brief, Raleigh made a vain search for El Dorado in the year 1595, and after send- ing out several of his captains in subsequent years, again visited Trinidad and came into conflict with Spaniards, in 1617-18, on that fatal voyage which ended with the losing of his head! Thus it will be seen that famous men came to Trinidad even before it had more than the beginnings of a history, and many have since followed in their tracks. Both Colum- bus and Raleigh anchored their ships at Punta de los Gallos, the southwestern extremity of Trinidad, and the latter made use of material from the famous Pitch Lake for closing the opening seams of his vessels. During the 200 years that the Spaniards maintained a colony in Trinidad they fre- quently came into conflict with the Indians, who, though mild and unwarlike in the main, several times retaliated upon their oppressors. At one time, in the earliest years of the colony, they massacred the governor, all the priests, and the Cabildo or executive board of officials; but in the end, through murders and "blackbirding," or kidnapping, they became extinct. None of Trinidad's aborigines are now represented on the island, though several families may be found whose blood is mixed with that of whites and negroes. Affairs in Trinidad were never very flourishing during Spanish occupation, and at one time had reached such a low ebb that the illustrious Cabildo, composed of noble Dons of high degree, was so reduced that its members had but a single pair of "small-clothes” between them, which they used to take turns in wearing at public functions. Insular pros- TRINIDAD 497 leave London on Wednesdays, calling at Plymouth, and pro- ceeding direct to Barbados to connect with the mail leaving Southampton, proceeding thence to Trinidad, Grenada, La Guayra, and Jamaica, returning to Trinidad to take cargo for Continental ports and London. Agents: Messrs. C. Leotaid & Son, King Street. The French mail steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transat- lantique, from Havre, Bordeaux, and Santander, via Guade- loupe and Martinique, arrives here about the ioth of each month, proceeding to Carupano, La Guayra, Puerto Cabello, Savanilla, Colon, and Port Limon, returning on or about the 30th, and leaving directly for Martinique, Guadeloupe, San- tander, Bordeaux, and Havre. The French intercolonial steamer from Martinique and St. Lucia calls here on the 24th, leaving the same day for Demerara, Surinam, and Cayenne, and returning on the 7th of the following month, on the way to St. Lucia and Martinique, to meet the Trans- atlantique steamer for Guadeloupe and St. Nazaire. Agents: New Colonial Co., Ltd., South Quay. Steamers of Scrutton's "Direct" Line arrive here from London, via Barbados, about twice a month, proceeding to the northern islands. During the crop season they return to Trinidad to load for London and Continental ports. The Glasgow “Direct” steamers run monthly, in crop season, between Glasgow, Trinidad, and Demerara. The vessels of Frederick Leyland & Co., Ltd. (the old West Indian and Pacific Steamship Company), fit in with those of the Harrison Line, to supply a service every ten days direct from Liverpool, returning via Venezuela and North America. A line of Dutch mail steamers plies every fortnight from Amsterdam, via Paramaribo and Demerara, proceeding to Carupano, Cumana, Guanta, La Guayra, Puerto Cabello, Curaçao, Jacmel, Port-au-Prince, and New York, returning homewards by the same route. The La Veloce Line, between Mediterranean ports, Tene- riffe, Trinidad, and Central America. Agents: Messrs. Gordon, Grant & Co., St. Vincent Wharf. The Pickford & Black Steamship Company, Ltd., Canadian steamers run fortnightly to and from the Do- A GLIMPSE OF SOUTH AMERICA Trinidad is so situated, opposite the many mouths of the vast Orinoco, and commanding routes of travels along the north coast of South America, that it offers many fascinating trips outside its boundaries proper. By making the island one's headquarters during the winter-in fact, say, from the first of December till the last of March, one might visit a great portion of the north and northeast coasts of South America, and make acquaintance with such fascinating coun- tries as Guiana and Venezuela, both by coast routes and internal waterways. Bermudez Asphalt Lake. Although not included in the general itineraries of tourists, and lying outside the routes of ordinary travel, Bermudez Lake, said to be the largest asphalt deposit in the world, might be "taken in” by the adventurous traveller while at Trinidad. It lies across the Gulf from Trinidad, in the northeastern province of Venezuela, and can only be visited by permission of the con- trolling company, whose steamers frequently make the trips and whose landing-wharves are at Guanaco, a place created and owned by the energetic exploiters of this vast deposit. The head offices are in Port-of-Spain, at 48 King Street, where full information may be obtained. Not only will a visit to this lake afford an unique experience in viewing the great undertaking, so recently initiated and carried out, but opportunities may be given for "tiger” and boa shooting in the surrounding wilds. A TRIP UP THE ORINOCO RIVER The most unique trip, doubtless, which a visit to Trinidad affords, is that up and down the Orinoco, the delta of which pours its waters into the Gulf of Paria, opposite the island's southern shore. Discovered by Columbus in 1498, the Orinoco was first explored by Diego de Ordaz in 1531. After these worthies followed Sir Walter Raleigh, in 1595, though the Spaniards had by then established forts at various places 502 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES a country with which England was at peace, King James cut off his head. Two days and nights of constant steaming (not only by the boats, but by the passengers, in the hot and humid atmos- phere) brings one to the objective of the voyage, Ciudad Bolivar, or Bolivar's City, formerly known as Angostura. It is the capital of the State of that name, is built upon solid rock, which here juts out into the Orinoco, and con- tains a population of about 10,000. It is not an attractive city, but though extremely hot, is not very unhealthy, possess- ing, it is claimed, a dry climate and immunity from mosqui- toes. It is the journey thither, rather than what Bolivar con- tains, that constitutes the attraction of that Orinoco voyage; and if one could traverse the vast country beyond he would find enough to furnish enjoyment for a lifetime. The city has a square or plaza containing a statue of Bolivar the Lib- erator, a cathedral, a government building, with old docu- ments pertaining to the country in its archives, a federal college, and a market-place, in which the products of the country are displayed. The houses are of the old Spanish type, of stone, with flat roofs and barred windows, and with galleries projecting over the streets, which but for the shade they afford would scarcely be comfortable with a midday temperature of 100° in the shade. A concise opinion of Bolivar is given in the common saying that it owes its exist- ence to the fact that the devil stole a march on the Creator during his Sabbath-day rest and threw up Ciudad Bolivar as an outpost ! On the Upper Orinoco. The river is about 850 yards wide opposite Bolivar, and in the middle of the stream rises a great rock, surmounted by a cross, which serves as an “Orinoco-metre,” gauging the annual rise of the stream, which is about 70 feet, and occurs between March and mid- summer, culminating in the month of August. Owing to this tremendous rise and fall of the Orinoco, there can be no wharves along its banks, and vessels experience great diffi- culty in lading and in discharging cargo, except when the river is high. Bolivar is the great entrepôt for the vast natural resources of the country drained by the Orinoco and tributaries, and A GLIMPSE OF SOUTH AMERICA 503 Trinidad, lying at the Orinoco's principal outlets, commands all the trade in gold, rubber, gums, balsams, tonca beans, cacao, coffee, bird plumes, tobacco, hides, horns, and live stock, the country's staples. There is no question but that this trade will continue to increase to vast proportions in the near future, as the now unknown regions are developed, and to Trinidad, occupying its strategic position, will inure the benefits. Port-of-Spain will become of commanding im- portance, like Para, through both of which will pass the thousands of tons of crude rubber collected on the Upper Orinoco and the Amazon, all of which from the former must be transshipped at Trinidad. It is said, however, that to fully avail of the immense resources locked up in the headwater regions there must be a reconquest of the country, for the Indians resident there are plunged into the depths of sav- agery and resist the advance of civilisation with their poisoned arrows. THE PEARL ISLANDS From Port-of-Spain one may visit the islands along the coast of Venezuela, several lines connecting with ports and islands on that coast (as may be seen by the preceding list of steamers). The Royal Mail is the best of these, and as it skirts the entire coast line, anciently known as the “Spanish Main," it affords splendid facilities for reaching all places of interest between Trinidad and the Isthmus of Panama. Another line, the Royal Dutch, takes the partial course, and touches at Cumana, opposite which lies the famous island Margarita. This island was once the seat of a very lucrative pearl fishery, pearls having been discovered here by Columbus in 1498, and later some explorers took away vast quantities. The pearl-oyster beds were almost exhausted centuries ago, but several small companies still fish in the waters adjacent to the island, and are fairly well rewarded for their pains. Here are old forts, relics of Spanish times in the sixteenth century, and the history of the Pearl Islands is exceedingly fascinating. Lying near the coast of Venezuela, in the meridian of Cumana, Margarita is from 5 to 20 miles in breadth by 45 miles in length, with an area of about 506 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES that the speech of the people is peculiar, being composed of several languages mingled. While the language generally spoken is English, the official speech is Dutch, and the com- mon tongue this mixed dialect, or Papiamento. It is com- posed of Dutch, Indian, English, Spanish, and other words, and forms, as some one has said, a "perfect pepper-pot of a dialect,” which seems uncouth, yet has its grammar and dictionary. Some of the streets in Pietermaay are broad and well paved, but there are others, mere narrow lanes, above which the balconies of houses on either side nearly meet, and in which disport naked children of the common sorts. There is much to interest one in these streets, especially the people one meets there, the total population of the island being about 28,000 or 30,000, composed of as varied types as can be found in any island in the world. As Curaçao is a free port, nearly everything is very cheap, the shops are numer- ous, the imports many. All Dutch products, especially, are extremely low priced, as gin and liquors generally and the famed “Curaçao” cordial, which is not made here, never was made here, perhaps, but derives its name from the island orange with which it is flavoured. Gold and silver jewelry, drawn-work, articles from Venezuela, etc., are to be found in the stores, which are numerous and well stocked. There is an immense libreria, or book store and publishing house, here, that of the well-known Betancourt, the chief trade of which is in the neighbouring Republic of Venezuela. Comniunication between various parts of the island is afforded by excellent roads, hard and dry (in the winter season), and around the harbour lagoon runs a quaint tram- way, which also connects different points in the town. The cars are very small, and the motive power is derived from a diminutive donkey the size of a large "billy-goat.” This animal is so completely overshadowed by the car, small as it is, that (it is related) a party of visitors once took seats (entering from the rear of the vehicle) and was drawn around the lagoon and back to the steamer without dis- covering the means of propulsion. On returning to the ship one of the party, a lady, exclaimed delightedly, "What a charming ride that was on the electric car!" "She called Kauroad company, which carry me (OUTSI aurusu Isthmus, following the line of the canal. Before enter PANAMA AND THE CANAL ZONE 511 make a long stay.at Colon, although the city has many aspects of interest. It is situated on the Caribbean shore of the Isthmus of Panama and is 477/2 miles northwest of the city of Panama. It is the northern terminus of the Panama Railroad and of the Panama Canal. It has a deep harbour, in which will be found ships of all nations, as the city has great commercial importance. Previous to the sanitary work of the American engineers the city was extremely unhealth- ful, but since a new system of sewerage has been put in and other improvements made the conditions have become greatly changed for the better. The city contains little of historic interest. The most conspicuous building is a stone church, built by the Panama Railroad for its employees. There is a beautiful view toward the ocean from the Washington Hotel. The streets of the city are lined with two-story frame houses, which are painted dark green or grey, and a roof of corrugated iron or sheet tin. Several short ex- cursions may be made from the city by carriage. At Cristo- bal, where the boats of the Panama Railroad Steamship Company dock, is located the Commissary Department of the Canal Commission. This includes a cold-storage plant, bakery, and laundry, which serves all employees of the Com- mission, railroad and United States Government and their families, numbering about 60,000. At Cristobal Point will be found a statue of Columbus and the Indian maiden, also the home originally constructed by Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, who was at the head of the French Canal Company. This is used as the offices of the several departments of the Canal Commission. The Commission hotel and Y. M. C. A. building are also located here. These two places can easily be reached on foot from Colon. At Portobello, 18 miles north from Colon, is a large rock quarry, from which rock was supplied for the construction of the Colon breakwater and the locks and dams at Gatun. The Canal and the Isthmian Canal Zone. The visitor to the Isthmus will undoubtedly be impatient to see first of all the canal, and to do this the easiest and most convenient way, as noted above, will be by the trains of the Panama Railroad Company, which carry the tourist across the Isthmus, following the line of the canal. Before entering 512 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES upon the actual inspection of the canal, it may add to the interest and the intelligent understanding of the traveller if he is given a short historical résumé and a general descrip- tion of the most important features of the great undertaking. The conception of a canal across the Isthmus of Panama originated as early as 1550, when a Portuguese navigator, Antonio Galvao, published a book to show that the canal could be cut at Tehuantepec, Nicaragua, Panama or Darien. No actual steps were taken, however, until 1771, when the Spanish Government ordered a survey for a canal at Tehuan- tepec, but finding this line impracticable, had surveys made in 1779 at Nicaragua. Political disturbances prevented any further prosecution of the work. After the Central Ameri- can republics had gained their independence, in 1823, interest increased in the project for a canal, and various concessions were granted to European governments for routes across Panama and Nicaragua, but with the exception of the con- cession of 1878 for Panama and 1887 for Nicaragua, no work of construction was done on any of these. The increased knowledge of the topography of the Isthmus, due to the increase of travel as a result of the discovery of gold in California, made it necessary for improved communications across the Isthmus. A railroad was projected at Panama and a canal across the Isthmus. Surveys were made for the latter in 1850 by American engineers. The investigations of engineers showed that only two lines, the Panama and Nicaragua projects, were practicable, and in 1876 an Ameri- can commission reported that the Nicaragua route pos- sessed greater advantages and offered fewer difficulties than any other. The first actual work of construction, however, was not done by Americans, but by the French. An expedi- tion under the direction of Lieutenant Wyse, an officer of the French navy, was sent to the Isthmus in 1877, and in May of the following year he obtained a concession from the Colombian Government, which is the concession under which the work on the canal has been prosecuted. Its first holders, however, did no work of construction. In 1879 an international congress convened at Paris under the auspices of Ferdinand de Lesseps to consider the best plan of a canal across the Isthmus. It was decided that the canal 516 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES boiler shops of the Canal Commission are situated, and which has also a Commission hotel and a Y. M. C. A. build- ing; Empire, where there is also a Commission hotel and a Y. M. C. A. building, and the general offices of the Division Engineer of the Central Division. At this point a sus- pension bridge across the canal gives a good view of Culebra Cut. At Culebra are the executive offices of the Isthmian Canal Commission, a Commission hotel and a Y. M. C. A. building. In the chairman's office will be found models of the locks, showing the method of operation. Observation platforms are located near the passenger station and the Y. M. C. A. building, from which points a good view of Culebra Cut can be had. At Pedro Miguel are the locks on the Pacific Division. Here also is a Commission hotel. The other locks and dams of the Pacific Division will be seen at Miraflores. At Corozal is a Commission hotel, Y. M. C. A. building and the office of the Division Engineer of the Pacific Division. The last point in the destination of the tourist will be the city of Panama on the Pacific Coast. City of Panama. Aside from its relationship to the Panama Canal, the city contains much of historic interest. It is one of the oldest cities in the Western Hemisphere. It is built on a rocky peninsula, which juts out to the east near the mouth of the Rio Grande and at the foot of Mt. Ancon. It has a good harbour and is enclosed at the south by several islands. The largest of these are Perico and Flamenco, which belong to the United States. These are the islands chosen for fortification by the United States Government. Nearly all the streets of the city are narrow and crooked. There are four principal squares, Cathedral, Santa Ana, Bolivar and Lesseps. The city proper is almost entirely enclosed by a great granite wall, on the top of which, on the side facing the sea, is the favourite promenade of the city. This wall was built in 1673 when the new city was established. The public buildings of the city include the Cathedral, built in 1760, the government palace, the municipal palace, the Episcopal palace, the church of Santa Ana, a theatre and several schools and hospitals. The houses are chiefly of stone with red tiled roofs. Since the introduction of water and drainage systems by the United States engi- PANAMA AND THE CANAL ZONE 517 neers, Panama is one of the healthiest cities of the Western Hemisphere. Perhaps the most interesting feature of the city is the sea wall, which is a remainder of the old fortification. The view from the top of this wall, which forms a promenade, is most impressive. Looking seaward on the right, Bilboa will be seen, and the Pacific entrance to the canal. Toward the shore line are the islands, Naos, Flamengo and Culebra. Further out is Tobago, while straight in front is the Pacific ocean. On the left will be seen the peaks of the Cordilleras, which are pierced by the canal in their lowest part. The coast sweeps around Panama Bay. Ruins of the old city can be seen under favorable conditions from the sea .wall. Cathedral Plaza, in the centre of the city, is the most im- portant business and social centre. The Cathedral is im- pressive, but not beautiful. The See is the oldest in America. The Cathedral was completed in 1760. It once possessed a painting by Murillo, a “Madonna,” together with rich uten- sils. These have been lost. The Cathedral is not the oldest church in the city. That distinction belongs to the Church of San Felipe Neri, the construction of which was begun in 1688. Its ponderous construction will be noted. It was thus built to resist sieges. The Church of San Francisco, on the Plaza Bolivar, stands the most nearly as originally completed in 1740. It is now used as a college by the Christian Brothers. The remains of the Church of San Domingo form the most picturesque ruin in the city. Tra- dition has it that this was built by Dominican monks. It was said that the arch near the front entrance fell three times. It is said that after the third fall one of the monks had a dream, in which a new plan for the arch was revealed to him. This, when constructed according to the plan re- vealed in the dream, stood firm. The arch is unique in that it is almost flat. This church was destroyed by fire, which also destroyed nearly all the city, in 1737. The ruins of the old Jesuit College, which was also destroyed in this fire, are interesting. It is now, however, put to the humble use of a cow-shed. Other churches in the city are San Jose, and Santa Ana without the walls. This contains a remarkable silver service. 518 A GUIDE TO THE WEST INDIES ABA BE Abe Acc. Ack Acu Adj Adr Adr Agy Agy Band concerts are held on Sunday afternoons in the Cathe- dral Plaza. It is also the scene of the great Mardi Gras Festival, which lasts for four days. The city of Panama was founded in 1516 by Pedro Arias de Avila, and is the oldest town of the mainland of America. It was in the sixteenth century the strongest Spanish fortress in the New World except Cartagena, and to it gold and silver were brought from Peru and were carried across the Isthmus to Chagres. The destruction of the Spanish fleets in the seventeenth century decreased the importance of the city, though it still remained the chief Spanish port of the Pacific. In 1671 it was destroyed by Henry Morgan, the buccaneer, but it was rebuilt in 1673 about five miles west of the old site and nearer the roadstead. The city has often been visited by earthquakes. There are several pleasant excursions from Panama City. Sabanas Road leads to the summer residences of the wealthier class of Panama. At Ancon are situated the offices of the Sanitary Department and Medical Corps of the Com- mission, and the main hospital building, originally built by the French at a cost of almost $5,000,000. At Balboa are located the marine shops of the Canal Commission. Here also is the entrance from the Pacific to the Canal. A break- water extends from Balboa to Naos Island, a distance of over three miles. Hotels. The Washington Hotel in Colon and the new Tivoli Hotel in Panama are first-class houses and the rates are the same as at other hotels of this class. On the Canal Zone there are many hotels built and conducted by the Isthmian Canal Commission. These hotels will be found at Gatun, Gorgona, Bas Obispo, Las Cascadas, Empire, Culebra, Pedro Miguel and Corozal. The rates charged at these hotels are those customary at hotels of the first class. Agy Aib Ala Alg Ali All Alr Alt Alt Alt Am Am Ana Añ An An An An athe Gras Arias erica. INDEX -tress and Es the Heets f the of the -, the west often City - the frices Com It by I are Here reak- ABACOs Islands, Great and Little, | Arbousier, usine of, Guadeloupe, Bahamas, 59, 60. 356. Abercromby, Sir Ralph, 476; in Archillos, caves of, Porto Rico, St. Vincent, 405. 288. Accompong, Jamaica, 174. Architecture of Havana, 86. Acklin Island, Bahamas, 66. Arecibo, Porto Rico, 284. Acul, Haiti, 263. Arima, Trinidad, 477, 480, 481, Adjuntas, Porto Rico, 281. 484. Admiral's Cave, Bermudas, 36. | Armadillo, Trinidad, 453. Admiralty House, Bermudas, 26. Arouca, Trinidad, 476. Aguada, Porto Rico, 281, 282. Arrows, Bay of, Santo Domingo, Aguadilla, Porto Rico, 282, 283. 239. Aguas Buenas, Porto Rico, 283; 1 Arroyo, Porto Rico, 285. caves of, 285. Asphalt, Trinidad, 490; lake of, Aguti, the, 453. 490-492. Aibonito, Porto Rico, 283. Atares, castle of, Havana, 92. Alamada, Santiago de Cuba, 123 Atlantic Steamship Line, 139. Alger's Spanish-American War, Atlas Service, the, of Hamburg- 123. American Line, 17. Alicetown, Bahamas, 61. | At Last, quoted, on Trinidad, 468, Alligator shooting, Trinidad, 477. 481-483. Almandares River, Cuba, 97, 99. Aux Cayes, Haiti, 271. Altamira, Santo Domingo, 250. | Aymé, Hon. L. H., in Martinique, Alto Cedro, Cuba, 112, 115, 137. 380. Alto Sano, Porto Rico, 283, 284. Azua, Santo Domingo, 233. American colonies in Cuba, 110, 133; flag first saluted, 332; hotel, Bahamas, the, situation, extent, Bermudas. 25, 37; railroad, area, etc., 45: chief islands of. Porto Rico, 279, 280. products, revenues, 46; currency Amsterdam, Fort, Curaçao, 505. of, 57; history of, 69-71; steam Anacaona, Queen, Santo Domingo, communication with, 15, 58, 59, 234. 68, 69. Añasco, Porto Rico, 283. Bahia Honda, Cuba, 100; Steam- Andrew Doria, 'Statia, 333. ship Line, Cuba, 139. Andros Island, Bahamas, 61, 62. Baileytown, Bahamas, 61. Anegada Island, 322, 323. Bajobonico, Santo Domingo, 250; Angostura Bitters, Trinidad, 461. river, 252. Anguilla, Island of, 327. Baker, Captain L. D., Jamaica, Animal-Flower Cave, Barbados, 1 183. 419, 420. Balaclava, Jamaica, 173. Annotto Bay, Jamaica, 186, 187. Ballaja barracks, San Juan, Porto Anse d’Arlets, Martinique, 384. Rico, 305. Antigua Island, topography, etc., Balliceaux Island, 429. 346; historical sketch of, 348; || Baltimore-Jamaica Steamship Route steamship connections, 348. (United Fruit Co.), 19. Antomarchi, Dr. 122. Banes, Cuba, III, 112. Apostles' Battery, Morro Castle, Bani, Santo Domingo, 233. 93; Jamaica, 166. Banica, Santo Domingo, 234. e of INDEX 521 Bridgetown, Barbados, 411-414, Carenage, Grenada, 434. 424; boat fares in, 412; wages 'Cariacou Island, of the Grena- in, 415; excursions from, 415; dines, 430. hack fares in, 415; tramway, Carib carvings, Guadeloupe, 355. 415; Tramways Company, Ltd., Carib Country, Dominica, 364, 415; St. Andrew's Railway Co., | 365. Ltd., 416. Carib Rock, St. Kitts, 340. Bridge of boats, the, Curaçao, Caribs of Antigua, 348; of 505, 507. Guadeloupe, 351; Dominica, Briggs, Sir Graham, Barbados, 361, 365; of Grenada, 437; 421, 422. St. Vincent, 398, 405, 406, 407. Brimstone Hill, St. Kitts, 337. Caridad. Nuestra Señora de, Bristol, England-Jamaica Steam Cuba, - 125. ship Route (Imperial Line), 19. / Carlisle Bay, Barbados, 412, 424. Broken Jerusalem, 323. Carolina, Porto Rico, 287. Brown's Town, Jamaica, 190. Caroni River, Trinidad, 477. Buccaneer island, a, 328. | Carrion crows of Trinidad, 461. Buccaneers of the Bahamas, 70. | Casa Blanca, San Juan, Porto Puccaneers' Lagoon, Curaçao, 508 Rico, 304. Buccaneers' Stronghold, the, Haiti, Casa de Colon, Santo Domingo, 263, 264. 220. Cascadura, the, Trinidad, 452. CaB and boat fares, etc., Port-of- Case Pilot, Martinique, 384. Spain, 462, 463, 464, 465. Casilda, Cuba, 128. Cabañas, fortifications of, Havana, Cassareep, cassava juice, 11. 75, 94. Castillo de la Punta, Havana, 79. Cabo Rojo, Porto Rico, 286. Castillo del Principe, Havana, 92. Cacao culture, Grenada, 433, 438; | Castle Harbour, Bermudas, 27. Trinidad, 456. Castleton Gardens, Jamaica, 159. Cacocum, Cuba, 137. Castries, St. Lucia, 391, 392. Cafés and restaurants of Havana, Cat Island, Bahamas, 63, 64. 89. Cathedral of Havana, 81, 82; of Caguas, Porto Rico, 286. Santo Domingo, 224-228. Caibarien, Cuba, 109, 132. Caura Valley and Waterfall, Trin- Caicos, the, Bahamas, 67. idad, 476. Caimanera, Cuba, 118. | Cauto River, Cuba, 127. Caimans, of Trinidad, 484. Cavern of the Dead, Porto Rico, Camaguey, Cuba, 109, 134, 137. 307. Camarones, 12. Cayey, Porto Rico, 287. Camino real, Porto Rico, 278. | Cayman Brae, 196. Camp Jacob, Guadeloupe, 353, / Caymans, the, 195, 196. 354. | Cayo Smith, Cuba, 120. Campanero, the, Trinidad, 453. Ceballos colony, Cuba, 133. Camuy, Porto Rico, 287. Cedros and San Fernando steam- Canarios, Los, Cuba, 100. ers, Trinidad, 488. Cane River Falls, Jamaica, 179. Central Railway, Santo Domingo, Caney, E1, Cuba, 123, 124. 249-251. Cannibals of Guadeloupe, 351, Cerro, the, Havana, 96; de Aripo, Canouan Island, 430. Trinidad, 457; de los Cristales, Caonabo, Carib chieftain, home of, Cuba, 101; de Sal, Santo Do- 233. mingo, 235. Caparra, Porto Rico, 285, 286. | Cervera, Admiral, in Santiago Cape Cruz, Cuba, 126, 127. Harbour, 119, 120. Cape Haitien, Haiti, 256-259. Cervera's fleet, where destroyed, Capesterre, Guadeloupe, 355. 126, 127. Carbet, Martinique, 378, 383. Chacachacare, Trinidad, 485, 486, Cardenas, Cuba, 109. 487. 522 INDEX Chaguaramas Bay, Trinidad, 485. Columbus, Christopher, statue of, Chalk Cave, Bermudas, 27. Nassau, 53; anchor, the, Haiti, Champ de Mars, Haiti, 266. 257; effigy of, Havana, 81, 82; Chaparra sugar mill, 110. point, Bahamas, 64; in Porto Chapels and Reliquaries, Santo : Rico, 282; remains of, Santo Domingo, 225. Domingo, 228-232; square, Port- Charlestown, Nevis, hot springs of-Spain, 458; tower, Santo Do- of, 341. mingo, 221. Charlotte Amalia, St. Thomas, Comate Water fall, Santo Domingo, 316, 318, 319. 237. Charlotte, Fort, Nassau, 54. Comerio, Porto Rico, 289. Charlotte Town, Grenada, 436. Concejo, Porto Rico, 284. Charlotte Ville, Bahamas, 54; To. | Concepcion de la Vega, Santo Do- bago, 442. mingo, 241, 242. Chateaubelair, St. Vincent, 400, Concepcion, Fort, Santo Domingo, 404. 244. Cherokee Sound, Bahamas, 60. Constant Spring Hotel, Jamaica, Choiseul, St. Lucia, 394. 157. . Chorrera, the, Havana, 92, 96, Constanza, Santo Domingo, 242. 98. Coolies in Jamaica, 202; Trinidad, Christiansted, Santa Cruz, 324. 462, 463. Christophe, General, Haiti, 258; Coral Bay, St. John, 321. castle of, 259; palace of, 260. Coro, Venezuela, 504. Churches, ancient, of Santo Do- | Corojal Bay, Cuba, 113. mingo, 222, 224. Corozal, Porto Rico, 289. Ciales, Porto Rico, 288. Corral de los Indios, Santo Do- Cibao, Santo Domingo, 249, 252. mingo, 234. Cidra, Porto Rico, 289. Cotubanama, chief, Santo Do- Ciego de Avila, Cuba, 132, 133. mingo, 236. Cienfuegos, Cuba, 128, 129, 130. Cotui, Santo Domingo, 242. Cigar factories, Havana, 91. Courland, Duke of, Tobago, 445. Cinchona plantations, Jamaica, Crane's, Barbados, 415, 416. 161, 162. Crapaud, edible, the, 12, 366. Ciudad Bolivar, Orinoco, 500, Creoles of Martinique, 372, 374. 502. Cristo, Cuba, 125, 138. Clubs, social, Havana, 84. Crooked Island, Bahamas, 65. Clyde Line to Santo Domingo, 18, Crown lands, Dominica, 368; 254. Saint Lucia, 380; St. Vincent, Coaling station, St. Thomas, 320. 407, 408; Tobago, 444. Coamo Springs, Porto Rico, 288, Cruising in the Caribbees, quoted, 289. 374 et seq. Cobre, Virgin of, Cuba, 125, 126. Crusoe, Robinson, in Tobago, 447- Cocal, the, Trinidad, 481, 484. 449. Cockburn Harbour, Bahamas, 67. | Crusoe's Island, quoted, 441, 445. Cockpit country, Jamaica, 174. Cuba, physical features, area, Cocoa-palms of Trinidad, 456, rivers, flora, climate, fauna, etc., 484. 73, 74; currency and customs, Cocoanut Hill, Montserrat, 344. 74; historical sketch of, 139- Codrington Village, Barbuda, 1 144; connections with, 138, 139; 349. railway, the, 113, 131-138, in- Codrington College, Barbados, 420, ! clusive. 421. Cuban Steamship Co., 139. Cojimar, beach of, 99. Cubitas, Cuba, 138. Cole's Cave, Barbados, 418. Cueva de los Frailes, Santo Do- Colon cemetery, Havana, 95. mingo, 253, Colonial Hotel, Nassau, 55, 56; Cueva Cajita, Porto Rico, 294. Porto Rico, 306. | Cul de Sac, Haiti, 269. INDEX 523 119. Culebra, Porto Rico, 290. | EARTHQUAKE, Kingston (Jamaica), Culebrina River, Porto Rico, 281. of 1907, 203-212; freaks of the, Cumana, Venezuela, 503, 504. 212. Cumbre, the Yumuri Valley, 107; | East Coast (Florida) Hotel Com- Santo Domingo, 250. pany, 54; railway, Florida, 15, Cuna Cuna Pass, Jamaica, 181, 186. 47, 55, 139. Cunningham Lake, Bahamas, 48. El Dorado, sought by Raleigh, Curaçao, coast of Venezuela, 504: 494; where situated, 500. 508; discovered by Vespucci, | Eleuthera, Bahamas, 62. 504; communication with, 509. Eli's Harbour, Bermudas, 33. Current Island, Bahamas, 63. I English Harbour, Antigua, 346. Englishman's Bay, Tobago, 444. Dahomey's king in Martinique, Enriquillo Lake, Santo Domingo, 380. 234. Daiquiri, Cuba, 119; iron mines Esperanza, Santo Domingo, 248. of, 125. Esprit, Martinique, 383. Damiju River, Cuba, 130. Estrella Point and battery, Cuba, Davis, Rear Admiral, Jamaica, 206, 207, 208, 210. Every, J. G. C., Cons. Agt., 'Sta. Dead Man's Chest, 323. | tia, 335. Deep Creek, Bahanias, 62. Ewarton, Jamaica, I36. Defoe, Daniel, author of Crusoe, Exuma Sound, Bahamas, 63. 447, 449. Exumas, Great and Little, Ba- De Graaff, Governor, 333. hamas, 63. Demerara Line, 20. Désirade, Guadeloupe, 351, 357. Fairy Land, Bermuda, 26. Dessalines, General, Haiti, 258. Fajardo, Porto Rico, 291. Devil Mountain, Dominica, 359. Falmouth Port, Jamaica, 190. Devil's Hole, Bermudas, 27; hoof, | Fancy estate, St. Vincent, 404. the, 331; “Woodyard,” the, | Farley Hill, Barbados, 421. Trinidad, 479. Fer de Lance, Martinique, 374, Devonshire Church, Bermudas, 31. | 385; St. Lucia, 388, 389. Diablotin, the, Trinidad, 485; Fern Gully, Jamaica, 177. mountain, Dominica, 359. Ferrière, La, castle of, Haiti, 259, Diamant, Martinique, 384. 261. Diamond Rock, ship, Martinique, Ferrocarril Central Dominicano, 385, 427. 219. Diego Martin Valley, Trinidad, Fig Tree Church, Nevis, 343. 472. Fincastle, Fort, Nassau, 53. Dogs, the, islands, 327. Five Islands, Trinidad, 484, 487; Dominica Island, 359, 360; ho- steamers to, 486. tels, 367; historical sketch, 368- Flamingo Pond, Anegada, 323. 370; steam communication with, Flatt's Village, Bermudas, 27. Flying-fish, Barbados, 411, 415. Don Christopher's Cove, Jamaica, Fontaine chaude, Martinique, 380. 187. Foods and beverages, 9. Dorado, Porto Rico, 291. Forest reserve, Tobago, 443. Dorsetshire Heights, St. Vincent, Fort de France, Martinique, 379- 398. 382; hotels of, 381. Dry Harbour, Jamaica, 190. Fort Royal, Martinique, 379. Dry Rivers, St. Vincent, 404. Fortalezas of Cuban trocha, 132. Ducking Stool, the, Bermudas, 27. | Fortune Island, Bahamas, 66. Dunmore Town, Bahamas, 62. Fountain of Youth, the, where Dutch possessions, West Indies, situated, 61. area, etc., 507. Françoise, Martinique, 383. Dutchman's Cap, 323. Frazer's Hog Cay, Bahamas, 61. Dynastes Hercules, Dominica, 366. Frederiksted, Santa Cruz, 324. 368. 526 INDEX Labat, Père, historian, quoted, | Maine, the, wreck of, Havana 437. harbour, 94, 95. Laborie, St. Lucia, 394. Maisi, Cape, Cuba, 118. La Brea (Pitch Lake), Trinidad, Malecon, the, Havana, 77, 78. 488; steamers to, 488. Malvern, Jamaica, 174. La Coupe, Haiti, 267. Maman loi, Haiti, 268. La Ferrière, castle of, Haiti, 259, Manati, Cuba, 110. 261. Manati, Porto Rico, 295. La Gloria, American colony in Manchioneal, Jamaica, 182. Cuba, 110. Mandeville, Jamaica, 172, 173. La Guayra, Venezuela, 504. “Man Friday," Crusoe's, a Carib, Lake of Fire, the, Bahamas, 49. 448, 449. La Maya, Cuba, 119, 137. Mangrove Bay, Bermudas, 33. Lamentin, Martinique, 383. Manjak, Barbados, 411. Landfall of Columbus, first, in Man-of-War Bay, Tobago, 444. Bahamas, 64, 65. Manzanillo, Cuba, 127. La Pagerie, Martinique, 384. Maracaibo, Venezuela, 504, 509. Lappe, the, Trinidad, 453. Maraccas Waterfall, Trinidad, Larcom, Lucy, lines by, on Ber 472, 473, 474. mudas, 28. Maraval Valley, Trinidad, 472. Lares, Porto Rico, 294. Margarita, pearl island, 503. Las Marias, Porto Rico, 294. Mariacao, Porto Rico, 295. Las Palmas Hotel, Porto Rico, Marianao, Cuba, 97. 278. Marie Galante, Guadeloupe, 351, Laudat, Dominica, 366, 367. 357. Laurel Moat, the, Cabanas, 94. Mariel, Cuba, 100. Layou Flats, Dominica, 360. Marigot, Martinique, 382; St. Leclerc, General, in Haiti, 257, Martin, 327. 258. Marin, Martinique, 385. Leeward coast, St. Vincent, 399. Marina, the, San Juan, Porto Leeward Islands, government of, Rico, 305. 346. Marine Hotel, Barbados, 414, 415. Lewiston, Cuba, 137. Marine Square, Trinidad, 458. Lily fields, Bermudas, 26, 36. Markets, principal, of Havana, 88. Lime culture, Montserrat, 345; Maroons, home of, Jamaica, 185, Dominica, 370. 186. Linstead, Jamaica, 176. Marriaqua Valley, St. Vincent, Little Cayman, 196. 400. “Little England," Barbados, 409, Marsh Harbour, Bahamas, 60. 422. Martha Brae, Jamaica, 191. Loiza, Port Rico, 294. Martinique Island, 371-386; com- Long Bay Cay, Bahamas, 62. munications with, 386; Gut, Long Bay Castle, Barbados, 417. Saba, 331. Long Bird Island, Bermudas, Matanzas, routes to, 106. Mata perro, the, Trinidad, 453. Long Island, Bahamas, 65. Mayaguana Island, Bahamas, 66. Lorraine, Martinique, 382. Mayaguez, Porto Rico, 295, 296. Lot Fourteen, St. Vincent, 404. Mayari River, the, 115. Luquillo, Porto Rico, 295; forest | Mayaro Trace and Bay, Trinidad, reserve, 267. 479, 484. Merced, La, church of, Havana, Macarro River, Gulf of Paria, 82. 500. Merrimac, the, 119. Macoris, San Pedro de, Santo Do Miami to Nassau, 47, 59. mingo, 235. Milk River Baths, Jamaica, 193, Macoris, San Francisco de, 242. 194. Madre de Cacao, Grenada, 438. Millot, Haiti, 260, 262. 29. 528 INDEX Palgrave, W. G., on Dominica, | Pitch Lake, the, Trinidad, 488- 362. 492; steamers to, 488; output Palisadoes, the, Jamaica, 164. of, 489. Palmer monument, the, Jamaica, Pitons, St. Lucia, 393, 394. 175. Pitts Bay, Bermuda, 26. Papa loi, Haiti, 268. Placetas del Sur, Cuba, 132. Papiamento, speech of Curaçao, | Plantain Garden River, Jamaica, 506. 182. Papine Corner, Jamaica, 160. Plantation Hole, Bermudas, 27. Paradise Peak, St. Martin, 327. Playa of Ponce, Porto Rico, 297, Paraguana, peninsula of, Ven. 298. ezuela, 508. Plaza de Armas, Port-of-Spain, Parham, Antigua, 346, 347. 458; Cienfuegos, 129; Havana, Paria, Gulf of, 468, 499. 79. Parque Central, Havana, 77, 78. Plymouth, Montserrat, 344; To- Parque de Colon, 77. bago, 442. Paseos of Havana, 91. Point Tabaco, Cuba, 112. Passage Fort, Jamaica, 172. Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe, 352, Passports, 12, 13. 355, 356, 357. Patti, Adelina, in Cuba, 121. Pomme rose trees, Guadeloupe, Paynter's Vale, Bermudas, 27. 354. Peak View, Jamaica, 180. Ponce, Porto Rico, 297, 298, 299. Pearl Islands, the, 503, 504. Ponce de Leon, Juan, and Foun. Peasant proprietors, Grenada, 433. tain of Youth, 61; castle, Porto Pedro Cays, the, Jamaica, 196. Rico, 304; statue, 303. Pelée, Mont, 371; eruption of, Population of West Indies and 374-377. Bermudas, 2, 5, 6. Pembroke Church, Bermudas, 26. Port Antonio, Jamaica, 182-185; Peninsular and Occidental Line, route to, from Kingston, Ja- 16, 139. maica, 177. Peniston Pond, Bermudas, 31. Port au Prince, Haiti, 265-269. Penuelas, Porto Rico, 297. Port de Paix, Haiti, 263. Pepper-pot, Barbados, 415. Port Henderson, Jamaica, 170. Peter's Bay, Tobago, 443. Portland Gap, Jamaica, 163. Petit Anse, Haiti, 256. Portland Parish, Jamaica, 182. Petit Cul de Sac, Guadeloupe, 352, Port Maria, Jamaica, 187. 355. Port Morant, Jamaica, 180. Petit Goave, Haiti, 270. Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, 457-462; Petrifactions of Antigua, 346. excursions from, 484. Petroleum district, Barbados, 418. | | Porto Rico, general description, Philadelphia-Jamaica route (United climate, vegetation, 273; fruits, Fruit Co.), 19. trees, population, 274; schools Philipsburg, St. Martin, 327. and churches, 275; public holi- Phipps, Sir William (Santo Do days, health, etc., 276; public mingo), 248. lands, forest reserves, 277; Phosphate deposits, Curaçao, 508. hotels, 277; highways, 278; dis- Pickford and Black Line sched tances between chief points in ules, 14, 15. island, 279; railroads, 279, 280; Pico Turquino, Cuba, 72. libraries, banks, clubs, 280, 281; Pietermaay, Curaçao, 505. cities, towns, villages, 281, et Pigeon Island, St. Lucia, 395. seq.; origin of name, 282; Pinar del Rio Province, Cuba, steamship connections with, 17, 102; city, 103. 306, 311; historical sketch, 311. Pines, Isle of, Cuba, 101. 315, inclusive. Pirates and buccaneers of Ba- Port Royal, Jamaica, 164-166. hamas, 70; Virgin Islands, 317. Port Royal, Bermudas, 32. Pirotecnica militar, Havana, 83. Portsmouth, Dominica, 361. This book should be returned to the Library on or before the last date stamped below. A fine of five cents a day is incurred by retaining it beyond the specified time. Please return promptly.