º, THACKER'S
A$5.
, D9.
GUIDE BOOK
DARJEELING
—Q-Re-Cº-º-º-
THACKER, SPINK & CO.,
CAT&M, JA,
SITY OF MICHIGAN
GENERAL LIBRARY


“Under the Patronage Of
H. E. the COMMANDER-IN-CHIFF in INDIA
and LADY ROBERTS.”
W00DIHNDS HOTEL,
D A R J E E L | N G
Open all the Year Round.
Centrally situated, within two minutes' walk of the
Railway station, and commands one of the F/WEST V/EWS
of the SNOWY RANGE in Darjeeling.
Tennis Court, Billiard-Room, Piano, and a good selection of
English and Country Papers.
Patronised by thousands of distinguished Ladies and Gentlemen.
Specially recommended by J. M. COOK, Esq. (of Messrs.
Thomas Cook and Son), who stayed here during his
recent visit to India.
THE GOVERNMENT BUNGALOW AT SENCHAL,
VISITORS to “WOODLANDS" enjoy special facilities
for visiting Senchal Mountain (6 miles from Darjeeling,
and 8,610 feet above the level of the Sea), the only place
near Darjeeling from whence a Good View of MOUNT
EVEREST, the Highest Mountain in the World, is to be
obtained.
Reliable Ponies supplied from the Hotel Stables. Daks
and Coolies arranged for Trips to Tongloo, Sundukpho,
and Phullut. Picnic Parties, Balls, Suppers, &c., supplied.
For terms, &c., apply to
C. ROBERTS.
Cook's Hotel Conſºons Acceſſed. (D)


orth Poirot
* *
|
PATTABON G
... • *,
- sº N.
touxD H\l L SID
\s N º
BBERY ... -->
Ö. \/\;=\º
º |RNS S
*/SY JOSEPH'S SCH
NS • *. •.
*Assemålºad *
TOWN HALL.Nº *s ;” BHUTIA BA $ T!
ST ANDREWSN. A Z'
º QBSERVATORY
- /
2"
& -
*Nº exºns EDEN'sANITARIUM § A PONDAM
raiebensrnali - i ... --
Óld Kºdchºyſ/W. P-
MARKET ºf CLUB
/ - Z BEECH wºod • ºf 7-
./ 'lowiš Jubilee º !
J
N10N CHAPEL
f
es [] SY Pºuls SCHOOL
t
|
NAT vey cº-
º
§ h : t , b & a p
O F
DARJºšLING
Scale 2 Inches = 1 Mile,
|OOO 500 º } 000 2 OOO 3000 4 OOO 5 O OO oppo
*— | ſ I K & º h
TTTTTTIIL II I I L–. l I T.
*
mºism
Litho. Thacker Spink & Co, Calcutta.





DARJEELING BOARDING HOUSE
“ROCKWILLE.”.
This well-known and popular House is the oldest
and longest established of any in Darjeeling, hav-
ing been opened in April 1867, when there was not
so much as a Dák Bungalow in the station for the
accommodation of Travellers, and from that time to
this, over a period of 23 years, has sustained an un-
rivalled reputation for cleanliness, excellent cuisine,
and real home comforts. Charmingly situated on a
ridge and on the favorite side of the station, it com-
mands glorious views on all sides, and is known
throughout Bengal as possessing the finest and
healthiest site of any house of the kind in Darjeeling.
It is surrounded by good verandahs, which are a
great boon during the rainy season, especially for
children, who are thus enabled to enjoy fresh air and
exercise without exposure to the rain. The charges
are moderate, and rooms can be engaged by the day,
month or season. For further particulars, apply to
Proprietress, “ROCKVILLE."



Jºllisi) & Huiſmål,
PHOTOGRAPHERS,
H A D H A M L O D G E ,
DARJEELING,
AN ID
CALCUTTA AND SIMLA.
GOLD MEDALLISTS,
CALGUTTA PHOTOGRAPHIG EXHIBITION,
1887–88.
A Splendid Series of Darjeeling Views,
including some of the finest Pictures of
the Snows, in existence.
Price Rs. 15 per dozen.
CA. TALOGUES ON APPL/CA TVOAV.


(Iljacker's Hijaubbockg of #inbogtan.
DARJEELING.


CHAPTER I
35
9 3
3 3
2 3
33
2 3
II.
III.
IV.
XII.
XIII.
CONTENTS.
Historical Q Q e * I—7.
The Journey to the Hills ... tº º ſº tº tº º 8–15
The Aboriginal Tribes of Sikkim ..., I6–32
Botanical Features ... tº gº tº e Q a ... 33–42
Natural History and Geology Q & © 43–5 I
Rivers and Mountains 52–60
The Station of Darjeeling 61–73
The European and Native Sanitariums ... 74–81
Educational Establishments for Europeans 82–85
Municipal and District Administration 86–91
Darjeeling as a Health Resort 92—IOO
Excursions . . . IOI-I2O
Agriculture, Manufactures, and Trade . I2I–I4O
5, 2
INDEX
. I4 I-144


%20% . . J)S
# !. ...' }. zºº
** º ... [. ſ/ , // 4 & / º
. . . . . . . . f , JD 9-
- N\lo
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL.
Our first connection with Sikkim—Cession of the ZXarjeeling
gº) Hill Station—A Sanitarium Established—Progress of
V the Station—Quarrel with Sikkim—Dr. Campbell and
S. Dr. Hooker made Captive—Their Release—Annexation
s of Territory—Opening of Æailways--Grozwth of the Tea
s Industry—Cinchona Cultivation—Trade with Mepaul,
\ Sikkim, and Tibet—The recent Sikkim Expedition—Hima-
º Jayan Hill ºribes.
> THE history of Darjeeling constitutes a recent chap-
ter in the extension of British rule. Up to 1815 the land
was practically a terra incognita. In that year the Nepaulese,
or Goorkhas as they are more frequently termed, raided
the territory of the Rajah of Sikkim, and by the next year
had driven him from his throne. His cause was espoused
by the East India Company, and eventually, in 1817, the
deposed Prince was restored to power, and the aggressive
Nepaulese were compelled to withdraw within their own
borders. A treaty was entered into between the Company
and the Rajah, by which the Sovereign rights of the latter
were guaranteed on the understanding that Sikkim should
become a Protected State, the ally of Great Britain, and
owning no allegiance to any other Government. The
object of this treaty was to retain Sikkim as a buffer state
between Nepaul and Bhutan, as otherwise the probabilities
D. G. I


2 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
were that the whole strip of Himalayan country would be
overrun and occupied by the war-like Goorkhas. In 1828
Sikkim again attracted notice, when a frontier dispute arose
with Nepaul. According to the treaty, the question at issue
was referred to the British Government, and through its
agency the matter was amicably settled. To conduct these
negotiations, a gentleman of high Scientific attainments,
Mr. J. W. Grant, together with an officer of the Bengal Army,
Captain Lloyd, visited the country, and it was they who first
conceived the idea of establishing a sanitarium at Darjeeling.
They brought the proposal under the notice of Lord William
Bentinck, then Governor-General, pointing out the eligibi-
lity of the site, the favourable nature of the climate, the
proximity to Calcutta and the accessibility of the place, its
central position between Nepaul, Tibet, Bhutan, and British
India, and the good example a peaceably-conducted and
well - governed station would be to the turbulent hill tribes
in the neighbourhood. The suggestion was well received,
and, as a first step towards acting upon it, an officer was
sent to make a survey of the Sikkim Hills. This was com-
pleted in 1830, and negotiations were thereupon entered
into with the Rajah for the cession, in return for a money
equivalent, of a tract of country which should include Dar-
jeeling. His first demand was unreasonable; but on fur-
ther consideration he agreed to hand over all the land, 138
square miles in extent, south of the Great Rungeet river,
east of the Balasan, Kakail, and Little Rungeet rivers, and
west of the Rangmi and Mahanada rivers, for a sum of
Rs. 3,000, afterwards increased to Rs. 6,ooo per annum.
This tract was formally ceded to the British in 1835.
Darjeeling soon became a favourite summer retreat for the
officials of Lower Bengal and their families, and it was also
established as a sanitarium for invalided European soldiers.


HISTORICAL. 3
In 184o Dr. Campbell was removed from Nepaul, to be
superintendent of the new station, and was entrusted with
the political relations between the British and Sikkim Gov-
ernments. When Dr. Campbell took charge there were
only twenty families in the whole tract, but under his ener-
getic management, extended over a period of twenty-two
years, the settlement made rapid progress. He constructed
roads and bridged torrents; built a bazar, a cutchery (or
court-house), and a church; established a convalescent depôt
for soldiers at Senchal, afterwards removed to Jalapahar;
introduced English flowers and fruits; experimented on the
cultivation of the tea plant; encouraged commerce; and
created a revenue. Meanwhile, allotments of land were
purchased by Europeans for building dwelling-houses, and
a few official residents, civil and military, formed the nucleus
of a community which was increased by retired officers and
their families and by temporary visitors in search of health,
or the luxury of a cold climate.
All went well for some years, but at last a new Prime
Minister, or Dewan, a Tibetan, becam - the adviser of the
Rajah of Sikkim. This man Dr. Hooker, in his “Himalayan
Journals,” describes as being unsurpassed for insolence and
avarice, his chief aim being to monopolize the trade of the
country, and to enrich himself at its expense. He made it
his business to throw every obstacle in the way of a good
understanding between the Rajah and the British Govern-
ment. British subjects were excluded from Sikkim ; every
liberal offer for free-trade and intercourse was rejected,
generally with insolence; merchandize was taxed; notori-
ous offenders, refugees from the British territories, were har-
boured ; despatches were detained ; and the Rajah's re-
presentatives were chosen for their overbearing manners
and incapacity. Dr. Campbell was compelled to proceed
*


HISTORICAL, 5
hill-men to emulation and progress. In 1849, however, the
trouble with Sikkim reached a climax. Dr. Campbell and
Dr. Hooker were travelling unarmed and without an escort
in Sikkim territory on a botanical and geographical ex-
pedition. They had express permission from the Rajah to
make this tour, and were peaceably moving through the
country, when they were seized and imprisoned by the offi-
cials of the Rajah, acting at the direct instigation of the
Tibetan faction at Court. Dr. Campbell was most roughly
treated, being knocked down and bound hand and foot ; he
was also tortured by having the cords round his wrists
twisted by a bamboo wrench. The object of the Sikkim
Government in making this treacherous seizure was, admit-
tedly, for the purpose of extorting from the Government of
India a more favourable treaty than that then existing, the
plan of seizing the representative of a neighbouring power,
and confining him until he should become amenable to
terms being in those days commonly practised along the
Tibet, Sikkim, and Bhutan frontiers. The harsh treatment
meted out to Dr. Campbell, however, was more especially
due to the fact that the persons deputed to effect his cap-
ture were men whom he had formerly punished for crimes
against the Nepaulese and the British Governments, and
who took this opportunity of gratifying their vengeful
feelings. Dr. Hooker was treated quite differently, and in-
deed he was informed that he was free to continue his
botanizing expedition. But he would not desert his friend,
and the two prisoners were marched to Tumloong, the capi-
tal of Independent Sikkim. The moment the news reached
Calcutta, a military expedition was despatched to rescue the
prisoners and avenge the insult. When the Dewan heard the
news of large bodies of troops concentrating at Darjeeling,
he became thoroughly alarmed. The Rajah, moreover,


6 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
now feigned to repudiate his Prime Minister's action, de-
claring that he was very angry at the seizure and detention
of the Englishmen. In the result the captives were marched
to within twenty miles of Darjeeling, and were then provid-
ed with ponies and allowed to go their way. They reached
Darjeeling without further adventure, Dr. Hooker relating
that when he arrived one night at eight o’clock at the house
of his friend Mr. Hodgson, the great oriental scholar and
ethnologist, he was at first taken for a ghost, but afterwards
received with shouts of welcome. It cannot be said that the
British authorities acted with much decision after the release
of the prisoners. The Rajah was ordered to give up the
most notorious offenders, and come himself to Darjeeling,
on pain of an army marching to Tumloong to enforce the de-
mand. He, however, pleaded his inability to fulfil these
demands ; but announced that he had forbidden the cul-
prits his court, had disgraced and turned the Dewan out of
office, reducing him to poverty, and really had not it in his
power to do more. Our threats were then modified into a
seizure of the Terai lands of the state, the whole Southern
part of Sikkim also being annexed, between the Great Run-
geet river and the plains of India, and from Nepaul on the
west to the Bhutan frontiers and the Teesta river on the
east. In all about 640 square miles were acquired on this
occasion. The Rajah’s allowance was also discontinued, but
afterwards, on friendly assurances, restored, and increased
to Rs. 12, ooo a year. Finally, in 1864, the Darjeeling Dis-
trict was further augmented by the cession of a hilly tract,
486 Square miles in area, east of the Teesta, which had
become British territory as the result of the Bhutan cam-
paign of that year. The total area of Darjeeling thus be-
came extended to 1,234 Square miles.
From 185o up to quite recent times nothing occurred to


CHAPTER II.
THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS.
Aſini's for the 7%aveller—Maihati /unction—Crossing the
Ganges—/alpaiguri—/ute Cultivation—Big Game in the
AWeighbourhood — Siliguri — The Mountain A'ailway—
The Terai—The Upward Ascent—A Marvellous Āail-
road—Magnificence of the Scenery—Kurseong—Z)azjeel-
ing—ZXistance Zºrazersed.
THE trip to Darjeeling is now-a-days accomplished with
the greatest comfort and ease, under circumstances very dif-
ferent from those ruling in the early years of the popularity
of the station, when the long winding ascent had to be made
by dåk palkees, hill ponies, or tonga carriages. Twenty-
four hours’ easy railway travelling transports the traveller
from Calcutta to Darjeeling, from the sea-level to cloud-
land, the total distance traversed being 369 miles, and the
actual perpendicular height gained 7,300 feet, or not far off
I}% miles. The traveller should journey by the mail train,
which leaves Sealdah Station, the Calcutta terminus of the
Eastern Bengal State Railway, in the afternoon, between
four and five o'clock—for the exact hour the periodically
issued railway time-tables should be consulted. It may be
noted that there are two scales of charges for return tickets,
the tariff being a fare and one-third when the return
journey is made within a period of eleven days; the other
return ticket issued at a fare and one-half, holds good for
four months. An excellent plan is to send all heavy
luggage forward a day before. The railway companies


THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS. -9
make special arrangements for this, charging only half rate
for excess baggage thus despatched, namely, Rs. 3-5 instead
of Rs. 6-Io per maund. No free allowance, however, is
made in the case of such forward booking, so the traveller
should keep with him, the amount he is allowed to take
free of charge, namely, two maunds first class, or one maund
Second class, half this allowance being made for a child's
ticket of the respective classes. If this system be adopted,
all anxiety en route will be avoided, and the luggage will
be awaiting the visitor on his arrival at Darjeeling station.
Another point worthy of mention is that an invalid carriage
with Spring couch is provided on the Mountain Railway, and
an invalid chair on the steamer crossing the Ganges if notice
is given beforehand. It may further be added in connection
with the start from Sealdah that Madras time is kept on all the
railways, this being 33 minutes behind Calcutta local time.
The first portion of the railway journey is comparatively
uninteresting. Barrackpur is passed, and then for mile
after mile the traveller speeds through a monotonous
country, level as a billiard table, where rice is the staple
production. This vast plain, however, is not without its
beauties ; occasional clumps of palm and other trees, with
most likely a native bustee or hamlet peeping out from
their midst, break the view, and in the rainy season the
sea of vivid green stretching far as the eye can reach, is
decidedly impressive. After a run of three-quarters of an
hour Naihati is reached, the place being of importance
from the fact that here is the junction between the Eastern
Bengal State Railway and the East India Railway, the
latter making the connection with its main system by
means of the new bridge spanning the Hughli at the village
of the same name. The construction of this bridge by
Sir Bradford Leslie was a great engineering feat, and has


Ib GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
effected a railway link of first importance. After a little
over an hour from Naihati, a few minutes' stoppage is made
at Bogoola, where a cup of tea may be procured, and will be
found an excellent stay till dinner, which is obtained some
two and a half hours later on board the river steamer. Damuk-
dia Ghāt, where the boat lies, is reached after about four and a
half hours from Calcutta, the dinner hour being thus a most
convenient one. The Ganges here is from 2% miles to 3
miles broad, and the current is very powerful. Add to this
the fact that the banks are ever being eroded at places, and
that shifting sand-banks are constantly being formed, and
it will be understood that the difficulties of navigation are
by no means slight. In this connection it may be mentioned
that the point where the steamer now lies was formerly dry
land, in fact the embarking jetty itself; but the river swept
.it away, with its embankments, buildings, and railway sid-
ings. The point to be made for by the steamer, Sara Ghāt,
is exactly opposite, a group of twinkling lights marking it
to the eye. But a wide sweeping curve has to be made,
owing to the force of the current, and when the start is
effected, the steamer heads up stream. The navigation has
to be very cautious, men heaving the lead constantly on
both sides of the vessel. At this ferry across the Ganges
five passenger trips are made daily, and in the intervals the
steamers are employed towing across flats laden with pro-
duce from up-country and manufactured goods of all kinds
from Calcutta. The dinner on board is well-served, and if
the night be a moonlight one, the scene on the river is a
Strikingly beautiful one.
At Sara Ghât the Northern Bengal State Railway, complet-
ed in 1878, commences. The line is on the metre gauge,
and the carriages are consequently less spacious than on the
Eastern Bengal system, but by no means incommodious.


THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS. II
The traveller will at once make preparations for sleep, a
rizai, or cotton-stuffed quilt, and pillows, being, it is taken
for granted, among his baggage. About seven o'clock in
the morning the traveller will have reached Jalpaiguri,
where he will find chota hazree prepared, the cup of tea being
most acceptable after the night's journey. During the hours
of darkness he has passed through the great jute-producing
district of Bengal. Jalpaiguri is an important centre of this
industry, and in the rainy season the fibre may be seen in
process of being steeped in the pools of water along the
sides of the railway. At this time of year also the traveller
will notice the platforms and other contrivances used by
the natives for catching fish, and he will also see rod and
line in the hands of many dusky urchins. Jalpaiguri is the
railway station for the district known as the Dooars, where
there are over 130 tea gardens, which send their produce
to this place for transport to Calcutta. A steam tramway
is in process of construction, which will tap this important
neighbourhood. Between Jalpaiguri and Siliguri a good
deal of tiger shooting is got every year. Away to the right,
towards Assam, stretches a vast and dense jungle, in which
big game of every kind, including elephants, is to be met
with in abundance. At Jalpaiguri there are sales two or
three times a year of elephants captured in the vicinity. At
this point the southern spurs of the Himalayan range are
in view, towering aloft, tree-clad to the summits, and fur-
rowed with sinuous river gorges, among which that of the
Teesta is plainly distinguishable. Siliguri, which is only
3oo feet above sea-level, is reached at a comfortable hour
for breakfast, and here the Mountain Railway begins.
The Darjeeling-Himalayan Railway undoubtedly ranks as
one of the marvels of engineering work throughout the
world. The gauge is two feet, and the line is laid with


THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS. I3
capabilities, as it skims along the 7 miles of level tract known
as the Terai. This is low-lying swampy ground, a breeding
place of malarious fever, but much improved of late years
by the laying out of well-drained tea-gardens. “Terai" is
a Persian word meaning “damp.” Geographically the belt
belongs to the plains of India ; politically, it appertains to
the hill-states beyond ; geologically, it is a sort of neutral
country, being composed neither of the alluvium of the
plains, nor of the rocks of the hills, but for the most part of
alternating beds of Sand, gravel, and boulders brought down
from the mountains, the Soil being generally light, dry, and
gravelly; botanically, it may be described as a region of
forest-trees, amongst which the Săl, the most valuable of In-
dian timber, is conspicuous in most parts, though not in Bri-
tish Sikkim (through which the railway runs), where it has
been used up or destroyed. The Terai belt extends from the
Sutlej to Brahma-koond in Upper Assam, skirting the base of
the Himalayas, and varying in breadth from ten miles on
the Sikkim frontier to thirty or more on the Nepaulese. It is
inhabited by a race called the Mechis, who stand the malari-
ous climate with impunity, and are indeed healthier here than
when they wander up into the hill-country. Soon after Sili-
guri is left behind, the Mahanadi river is crossed, flowing
in a shallow valley, over a pebbly bottom ; the current is very
rapid at all seasons of the year, the water is limpid as Crystal,
and the banks are fringed with a continuous line of bushes,
Tea-plantations are passed to right and left of the railway,
the bungalows of the planters being a pretty feature of the
scene. After seven miles from Siliguri the ascent commences,
a sharp rise of about three miles leading to a short flat, or
spur, from which the Himalayas rise abruptly, clothed in
forest from their base. The incline now becomes Sudden
and steep, and the track begins to wind about and double


I4. GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
and zigzag in a manner that is bewildering and amazing.
No words can adequately describe the first sensation of tra-
velling by this railway. . The little engine pants and puffs,
and the carriages wind after it round the sickle-shaped curves
like a sinuous serpent. Seated about the centre of the
train, you find the engine now to right of you, and a mo-
ment afterwards it is on the left. Onwards and upwards
you mount; at times you can see the track hundreds of feet
beneath you, and can only wonder how you ever got from
that point to this. Occasionally the train darts under a
bridge, and a minute afterwards, describing an almost per-
fect circle, crosses over it. When a spur is reached that
forbids the possibility of a curve, the figure 2 is described,
the train running along a siding, and the engine, after a
momentary halt, backing the carriages up the central bar of
the figure. The operation hardly takes two minutes, and in
a trice the train is speeding along again, parallel to the old
track, but twenty or thirty feet higher up the mountain side.
But all this must be seen for its marvellous ingenuity to be
appreciated. Meanwhile, the traveller will also be struck
with admiration for the Superbly magnificent scenery above,
around, and beneath him. No spectacle in the world is
more grand. Lofty peaks tower overhead, usually with fleecy
clouds dotting out the green with white, and here and there
some taller Summit disappearing quite into cloud-land.
To right and left of your level, dense deep-green forests
everywhere meet the eye, clothing continuously the steep
slopes, and ever and anon dipping into some gorge, down
which rushes an impetuous stream, a cascade, perhaps, with
an overhanging cloud of spray adding to the beauty of the
spectacle. Away below lies the vast plain stretching like a
great Sea as far as the eye can reach, with spurs of lofty moun-
tains forming a serrated edge, and the innumerable rivulets


THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS. I5
from the hills uniting into streams whose devious courses
glisten like silver threads. A mighty and glorious panorama,
which, once seen, can never fade from the memory.
With every turn and bend of the railway, a new scene
bursts on the view, and as hour succeeds hour the endless
variety keeps the eye from tiring. The vast expanse of
foliage is broken here and there by tea-gardens, whose pretty
little bungalows nestle on the hill sides. Meanwhile, the
air grows more rarified and more bracing, and the change
from the clammy atmosphere of Lower Bengal is complete
When Kurseong is reached about two o'clock, a sharp appe
tite will have been developed for tiffin ; this is served in
excellent style at the Clarendon Hotel, opposite which the
train pulls up. It is now twenty miles to Darjeeling, and
the elevation is 4,860 feet above sea-level. The journey is re-
sumed through the most magnificent Scenery. The forest-
clad valleys beneath the railway descend thousands of feet,
the slope at times being almost precipitous. If it is a clear
day the snowy range of the Himalayas is also in view, the
first sight of which, with clear cut peaks of dazzling white,
towering in silent stupendous majesty into the sky, cannot
but create a profound impression. Four miles from Dar-
jeeling is Ghoom, 7,372 feet high, the most elevated railway
station in the Old World. From this point the line descends
a few hundred feet towards its terminus at Darjeeling.
The following are the distances that have been traversed
in the four stages from Calcutta :—
Calcutta to Damukdia Ghât ... I 2 o miles.
Across the Ganges tº e ſº 2%. ,
Sara Ghât to Siliguri ... I 96 j 5
Siliguri to Darjeeling ... 50%
33
Total ... 369


CHAPTER III.
THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM.
The Mongol Type of Countenance—Heterogeneous AWature of
the Population — The Mechis of the Terai — Physique,
Manners, and Customs—A Curious Marriage Ceremony—
The Kochs or Rajbansis—Hill Tribes—The Zepchas—
Their Physical and Mental Qualities, Mode of Life, Cloth-
ing, Ornaments, Adeligious Beliefs, &c.—Anecdote of a
Aleftcha Bay—The Zimboes—The Bhuteas—The AVefaulese
—The Tibetan Abroad—Dr. Hooker on the Himalayan
Aborigines—The Zanguages of Darjeeling—A Polyglot
Community,
ON arrival at Siliguri nothing strikes the traveller more
than the marked change in the cast of feature of the natives.
The Mongolian type of countenance, with broad face and
flattened nose, at once arrests attention. As the hills are
ascended men of the different Mongolian races become
more numerous, Lepchas, Limboes, Nepaulese, Bhuteas,
and Tibetans, and the traveller finds himself among a
population wholly different in appearance and in customs
from the people of the Bengal plains.
The first special tribe met with are the Mechis, who are
found solely in the Terai, or sub-montane strip of territory,
and have strongly-marked Mongolian features. They are
divided into two clans, the Bodas and the Dhimals, who are
alike in every respect except that they occupy different


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 17
villages and live apart. They are a mild inoffensive people,
industrious for Orientals, living by cultivating cleared spots
in the forests and by Collecting jungle products for sale.
They are nomadic in their habits, seldom occupying the
same field beyond a year, and frequently burning down
patches of jungle for the purpose of cultivating the soil
thus cleared. This latter practice, however, is gradually
being put a stop to, and the people are becoming more
settied in their habits, the establishment of the great tea
industry in the Terai partly conducing to this result. The
Mechis seem to be the only race that can stand the mala-
rious climate of the Terai with impunity. They have some-
times been described as a squalid, unhealthy tribe, typical
of the region they inhabit; but the fact is otherwise, for,
though stunted in stature, they are a robust people, their
disagreeably Sallow complexion being deceptive as indicat-
ing a sickly constitution. A curious fact is, that when Mechis
migrate to the hills for a season of labour in the tea-gardens
there, they die off rapidly, but in their own swampy jungles
they are rarely victims to fever. They cultivate cotton,
oil-seeds, &c., and rear for their own food goats, pigs,
poultry, and pigeons. They also possess a few cows, but
have neither sheep nor buffaloes. They barter with the
surrounding tribes for the few earthen or iron pots they
require for cooking, agricultural implements, &c. They have
no special handicraftsmen or shop-keepers amongst them,
each family building its own house, fashioning its own
rough furniture, making its own garments, cultivating its own
patch, and generally supplying all its own wants. Their
dwelling-places are neatly constructed of jungle grass and
bamboo, The women spin, weave, and dye the family
garments, the dress being a shawl and loin-cloth of cotton,
white or dyed. They also brew a sort of light beer from
D. G. 2


18 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
millet-seed, called murzwaſ, which they drink in large quanti-
ties. It is a refreshing drink taken warm, and tasting some-
thing like sherry negus, rather sour; it is not intoxicating,
unless a person regelarly fuddles himself with it. The women
wear small silver rings in their noses and ears, and heavy
bracelets of mixed metal, for which they barter their oil-
seeds, &c., in the Cooch Behar markets. Rice is their
staple food, which they cook with oil, salt, chillies, &c. They
are an omnivorous race, however, and nothing comes amiss,
whether it be the flesh of wild hog, wild buffalo, rhinoceros,
civet cat, porcupine, or mongoose They also eat fish,
showing a preference for this article of diet when it is in a
putrid state. They are hospitable both among themselves
and to strangers, but, living in Sequestered and isolated
spots, are shy of intrusion, though they rather court than
avoid intercourse with those whites whom they know to be
kindly disposed.
Their religion consists chiefly in the worship of the sun,
moon, stars, and terrestrial elements; of these last the rivers,
whose benefits they are fully sensible of, being chiefly held
in reverence. They have a few household gods, to whom
they make offerings of milk, honey, parched rice, eggs,
flowers, and fruits, while they also occasionally sacrifice a
pig, a goat, or a fowl. They pray to their gods to avert
disasters of all kinds, and they hold festivals of thanksgiving
when their corps are safely housed. They have priests
among them, one class of whom are paid to exorcise spirits.
Marriage takes place only when the parties are adults, the
man being from twenty to twenty-five years and the woman
from fifteen to twenty. The bride has to be paid for, the
parents receiving from Rs, Io to Rs. 45 from the suitor, who,
if he does not possess the wherewithal to at once complete
the purchase, has to make up the amount in labour for his


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. I9
father-in-law elect. The chief part of the marriage cere-
mony is the sacrifice of a cock and a hen, the bridegroom
holding the former in his hands, and the bride the latter.
With one stroke of a knife the priest severs the heads of
both fowls, and the direction in which the blood spurts out
serves as an omen as to the happiness or unhappiness of
the match. The Mechis are reputed to be kind husbands
and fathers, and also to show a good deal of filial affection.
They evince a simple and devout reverence for the dead,
inter the bodies amidst solemn silence, mark the graves by
piles of large Stones and boulders, and place upon them
food and drink for the deceased. After the funeral cere-
mony they hold a feast, and eat, drink, and make merry.
Altogether, the Mechis, though a primitive people, are very
far from being at the foot of the scale of civilization among
the aboriginal races of India.
The Kochs or Rajbansis, properly the people of Cooch
Behar, are very numerous in the Terai Sub-division. This
semi-aboriginal tribe first rose into power about the close of
the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century, Cooch
Behar becoming their metropolis. Brahmanism was intro-
duced among the higher ranks, but the lower orders of the
race being refused a decent status in the Hindoo caste sys-
tem, became Mahomedans. By the 1881 census, there were
over 30,000 Rajbansis in the Darjeeling Terai. They are
cultivators, fishermen, and labourers.
Ascending now to the hill-country, we find a tribe called
the Lepchas, who are the primitive inhabitants of Sikkim,
which, of course, in its wider application also includes British
Sikkim or Darjeeling. Their physiogonomy is markedly
Tibetan in its character; their language is radically identi-
cal with Tibetan, though there are important points of


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 2í
from their smiling faces and evident good nature. The
children also are bright, lively, laughing urchins. The old
women, however, are not so pleasing in appearance. The
Lepchas as a race show a particular aversion to cold water,
and neither their persons nor their garments can be describ-
ed as clean. If they conse to a river, however, they readily
take the opportunity of bathing, being very expert Swim-
mers. In disposition they are amiable and obliging, frank,
humorous, and polite ; in their address free and unre-
strained, and without a trace of the servility of the Hindus
They may be seen scampering about and playing like
children, the women often dealing out tremendous thumps
to the men in a good-humoured way. Their worst faults
are indolence and a £enchant for gambling. They are
honest folk, and receive pay or a present with a brusque
bow and thanks, and without the grumbling look the Bengal
coolie, handsomely remunerated, is accustomed to put on
in the hope of extracting more money. The Lepchas in-
variably carry a long, heavy, straight knife, called a Čán,
which serves them equally for plough, tooth-pick, table-
knife, hatchet, hammer, and sword, though to the last use
it is never known to be applied.
The Lepchas have a code of morals far above those
possessed by their Tibetan and Bhutanese neighbours,
polyandry being unknown among them, and polygamy, rare.
Considering the rigorous nature of the Sikkim climate, their
dress is very scanty. A cotton garment, with red and blue
stripes, wound round the body and reaching to the knee,
with a loose-sleeved woollen upper garment in the Coldest
season of the year, being all they wear. The dress of
the women is very similar to that of the men, a small sleeve-
less woollen cloak being added. Both sexes wear orna-
mental girdles round the waist, and their costume altogether


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 23
cups, turned from knots of mapel or other woods ; these
are curious and very pretty, often polished, and mounted
with silver. Their intoxicating drink is made from partially
fermented murzvah grain. They are very fond of tea, and
drink it in the English fashion with milk and sugar when
these commodities are procurable. They also use large
quantities of the brick tea manufactured in China for the
Tibet market, this being made into a semi-solid liquid with
butter, soda, and salt added. The only musical instru-
ment they possess is a rude flute made of the bamboo,
with which, however, they play tunes that are by no means
inharmonious. When travelling, or after the fatigues of
the day, the Lepcha will sit for hours chatting, telling
stories, singing in a monotonous tone, or making music
with his flute. Their marriages are contracted in child-
hood, the wife being purchased by money or by labour
rendered to the future father-in-law. The marriage tie is
strictly kept. All the labours of the house, the field, the
march, devolve on the women and children, and the men
may frequently be seen rocking the tiny bamboo cradle,
while the women are hoeing, digging, delving, tending the
live-stock, &c. Among these people vaccination is eagerly
sought after, as they have a horror of small-pox, cruelly
shunning persons who may chance to become infected with
the disease. Disease of any kind, however, is rare among
the Lepchas, though they are subject to rheumatism and to
intermittent fevers, with ague, caused by sleeping in the hot
valleys at the beginning and the end of the rains. They
have a particular dread of death. Their dead are burned
or buried, sometimes both, much depending on custom and
rank. In religion the Lepchas are marvellously mixed up,
and may be described as Buddhist-Hindu-Demonolators.
Each tribe has a priest-doctor, or exorcist, who by prayers


24 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
and invocations drives out the devils, which are supposed
to be the originators of all bodily ailments. These priests
profess mendicancy, and sing, dance, beg, bless, Curse, and,
masked and draped like harlequins, often play the part of
merry mountebanks. Those that affect more of the Lama
Buddhist carry the “Mani,” or revolving praying-machine,
and wear rosaries and amulets; others again are all tatters
and rags. Good and evil spirits are devoutly believed in,
and the latter, who are supposed to dwell in every mountain,
rock and grove, are conciliated by prayers. Altogether the
Lepchas may be summed up as a race conspicuous for
their honesty, their power as carriers and mountaineers,
their skill as woodsmen, and their unfailing cheerfulness of
disposition. Numerically weak, it is well that they are
not of a pugnacious character, otherwise they would have
been long since exterminated by their turbulent neighbours
in Nepaul and Bhutan. The women, it may be added,
make excellent children's servants, and the men are not
averse to turn their hands to any indoor work.
Dr. Hooker pays the following high tribute of praise to
the Lepchas :--“A more interesting and attractive com.
panion than the Lepcha I never lived with : cheerful, kind
and patient with the master to whom he is attached ; rude
but not savage, ignorant, and yet intelligent. With the
simple resource of a plain knife he makes his house and
furnishes yours, with a speed, alacrity, and ingenuity that
wile away that well-known long hour when the weary pilgrim
frets for his couch. In all my dealings with these people,
they proved scrupulously honest. Except for drunkenness
and carelessness, I never had to complain of any of the
merry troop ; some of whom, bare-headed and bare-legged,
possessing little or nothing save a cotton garment and a
long knife, followed me for many months, from the Scorching


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 25
plains to the everlasting snows. Ever foremost in the
forest or on the bleak mountain, and ever ready to help to
carry, to encamp, collect, or cook, they cheer on the
traveller by their unostentatious zeal in his service, and
are spurs to his progress.” The great traveller also tells
the following touching anecdote of one of his Lepcha
boys —“I here found that I had lost a thermometer for
high temperatures, owing to a hole in the bag in which my
attendant carried those of my instruments which were in
constant use. It had been last used at the hot springs of
the Kinchinjhow glacier; and the poor lad was so concern-
ed at the mishap, that he came to me soon afterwards, with
his blanket on his back and a few handfuls of rice in a bag,
to make his salaam before setting out to search for it.
There was not a single inhabitant between Lachoong and
that dreary spot, and strongly against my wish he started,
without a companion. Three days afterwards he overtook
us at Keadom, radiant with joy at having found the instru-
ment: he had gone up to the hot springs, and vainly
Sought around them that evening; then rather than lose
the chance of a daylight search on his way back, he had
spent the cold October night in the hot zwater, without fire
or shelter, at 16, ooo feet above the sea. Next morning
his search was again fruitless; and he was returning discon-
solate, when he descried the brass case glistening between
two planks of the bridge crossing the river at Momay,
over which torrent the instrument was suspended. The Lep-
chas are generally considered timorous of evil spirits, and
especially averse to travelling at night, even in company.
However little this gallant lad may have been given to
superstition, he was nevertheless a Lepcha, born in a warm
region, and had never faced the cold till he became my
servant ; and it required a stout heart and an honest one


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 27
as porters, dandy-bearers, &c. It is to be observed that
the term “Bhuteas" does not mean the natives of Bhutan ;
the latter are called Bhutanese, or Dhurma people, in allu-
Sion to their spiritual chief, the Dhurma Rajah, or sovereign
pontiff of Bhutan, and spiritual head of the red-capped
sect of Lama Buddhist. The Bhuteas are of several
classes, some coming from Tibet and others from Bhutan, a
third clan being indigenous to Sikkim (though undoubtedly
former emigrants from Tibet); and a fourth being a cross
between the Tibetan-Bhutea and the Lepcha. The Tibetan-
Bhutea is the best of the lot, but he is turbulent and
cruel, and of his morals the less said the better. The
Bhutan or Dhurma Bhuteas are most commonly seen at
Darjeeling. They are the coolies and drudges, doing most
of the real hard work of the place. The Sikkim Bhuteas,
also called Arrats, are a turbulent and drunken lot, a re-
mark which also applies to the mongrel class, who are
known as Sharpa Bhuteas. To take all the varieties to-
gether, it may be said generally that the Bhuteas are a
most filthy race. Their sole attire is a long loose woollen
robe, confined at the waist by a belt or a rag of unknown
hue. The upper part of this garment forms a receptacle,
into which they cram all sorts of incongruous articles, in-
cluding often putrid fish or meat, which they use as a relish
with their food. They carry long knives in their belts.
Both men and women wear silver rings set with turquoises
and square amulets of gold and silver upon their necks,
and on their arms above the elbow ; in their ears large
round earrings, often of solid gold, and so heavy that they
drag down the lobe of the ear in a very ugly manner.
The women also load their necks with strings of coral and
glass-beads, also pieces of amber, glass, and agate. These
ornaments simply represent the savings and worldly wealth


THE ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 29
Within recent years Nepaulese have come into Darjeel-
ing in great numbers, their services being eagerly sought
for on the tea-plantations, and they now form nearly 7o
per cent. of the total population. They are a pushing
thriving race, very prolific, and great colonizers. The
Nepaulese are excellent agriculturists, as well as carpenters,
blacksmiths, tailors, &c.; they accordingly find ready
and well-paid employment, being also engaged as domestic
servants, syces, leaf-cutters, &c. Those who enter Dar-
jeeling usually settle down in the district, some of them
being fugitives from Nepaul on account of minor crimes
for which no extradition trerty exists, or because of their
having been head-over-ears in debt. Moreover, on re-
turning to their country they are mulcted in considerable
sums, a payment which they are naturally reluctant to incur.
The Nepaulese will live in the same village with the Lep-
chas, but they occupy a separate quarter to themselves.
They are divided into almost innumerable tribes or clans,
erroneously called castes. In physique they are wiry, light,
and agile, short and slim, wonderfully active and hardy,
and warlike and brave to a degree. The Goorkhas, who
form the ruling clan, make soldiers second to none all the
world over, and the British Goorkha regiments are one of
the great elements of strength in our native army. They
are, however, by no means a quarrelsome race, which is
well, for every Nepaulese carries a deadly-looking curved
knife, called a Aukeri, and can use it with great effect when
occasion demands. Their religion is a strange mixture
of Hinduism, Brahmanism, and Buddhism, with traces of
Paganism pure and simple.
The Lepchas, Limboes, Bhuteas, and Nepaulese by no
means exhaust the hill tribes to be met with in Darjeeling,
However they constitute the most important part of the


3o GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
aboriginal Himalayan inhabitants, and minor races need not
be dealt with in detail. Mention may just be made of
the Magras, who inhabit the lower levels of Nepaul, and
have overflowed in considerabel numbers into British
Sikkim; and of the Moormis, who dwell on the lands on the
Sikkim-Nepaul frontier, and may be said to belong to both
countries. Fuller particulars, however, may be given in re-
gard to the Tibetans proper, who in the cold season
come into Darjeeling to trade, bringing with them ponies,
yaks, sheep, goats, rock-salt, musk, and other commo-
dities. They take back with them tobacco, broadcloth,
piece-goods, and other articles. When in the district
these people usually camp out in small light tents on
the Lebong Spur, I, ooo feet below Darjeeling. They
are polyandrous, it not being uncommon to find one
woman occupying a tent with six or seven men. Their
features are truly Mongolian, and the men are an uncouth
wild-looking lot, middle-sized, squarely built, and evidently
strong and hardy. They do not wear beard, whiskers or
moustache, removing every hair from their faces by means
of tweezers. The men wear their hair either in pig-tails
or flowing, as fancy dictates, Their dress consists of a
long thick blanket robe, fastened round their waists by a
leather belt, in which they stick their iron or brass pipes,
and to which they suspend their long knives, chop-sticks,
tobacco pouch, tweezers, tinder box, wooden Cup, and a
miscellaneous assortment of other useful articles. The
dress of the women is somewhat similar, but they wear
in addition a short sleeveless coat over the long robe,
drawn round the waist by a girdle of broad brass or silver
links. Their hair is braided into two tails, and they have
a peculiar habit, when travelling, of Smearing their faces
with a black Sticky mess of coal-tar consistency.


TEIE ABORIGINAT, TRIBES OF SIKKIM. 31
This pigment of grease is not intended to conceal their
charms, as some travellers have supposed, but to protect the
skin against the biting mountain winds. Both sexes wear silver
rings and earrings, set with turquoises, and square amulets
upon their necks and arms, which are boxes of gold and
silver, containing Small idols, or the nail-parings, teeth,
or other reliques of some Sainted Lama, accompanied with
musk, written prayers, and charms. The Tibetan method
of salute is to loll out the tongue, grin, nod, and scratch
the ear ; but this procedure entails so much ridicule in the
low countries that they do not practise it to strangers.
Dr. Hooker’s description of Tibetans on the march is
very vivid —“These groups of Tibetans,” he writes, “are
singularly picturesque, from the variety of their parti-col-
oured dresses, and their Odd appearance. First comes a
middle-aged man or woman, driving a little silky black yak,
grunting under his load of 260 lbs. of Salt, besides pots,
pans, and kettles, stools, churn, and bamboo vessels, keep-
ing up a constant rattle; and, perhaps, buried amongst all,
a rosy-cheeked and lipped baby, sucking a lump of cheese-
curd, The main body follow in due order, and you are
soon entangled amidst sheep and goats, each with its two
little bags of salt: besides these stalks, the huge, grave, bull-
headed mastiff, loaded like the rest, his glorious bushy
tail thrown over his back in a majestic Sweet, and a thick
collar of scarlet wool round his neck and shoulders, setting
off his long, silken coat to the best advantage ; he is de-
cidedly the noblest looking of the party, especially if a fine
and pure black one, for they are often very ragged, dun-
coloured, sorry beasts. He seems rather out of place, neither
guarding nor keeping the party together, but he knows that
neither yaks, sheep, nor goats require his attention, all are
perfectly tame, so he takes his share of work as Salt-carrier


32 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
by day, and watches by night as well. The children bring
up the rear, laughing and chatting together ; they, too, have
their loads, even to the youngest that can walk alone.”
Such are the chief hill races that go to constitute the
heterogeneous population of the Darjeeling District. We
shall make yet another extract from Dr. Hooker’s fascinat-
ing and deeply interesting volumes. Writing on the mixed
nature of the community, he remarks –“ That six or
seven different tribes, without any feudal system or coercive
head, with different langauges and customs, should dwell
in close proximity and in peace and unity, within the con-
fined territory of Sikkim, even for a limited period, is an
anomaly ; the more so especially when it is considered that
with the exception of a tincture of the Buddhist religion
among some few of the people, they are all but Savages, as
low in the scale of intellect as the New Zealander or the
Tibetan, and beneath those races in ingenuity and skill as
craftsmen. Wars have been waged among them, but they
have been neither sanguinary nor destructive, and the fact
remains no less remarkable, that at the period of our occupy-
ing Darjeeling, friendship and unanimity reigned amongst all
these tribes, from the Tibetan at 14, ooo feet to the Mechi of
the plains, under a sovereign whose temporal power was
wholly unsupported by even the semblance of arms, and
whose spiritual supremacy was acknowledged by very few.”
It will thus be seen that Darjeeling is one of the most
polyglot places on the face of the earth. The vernaculars
spoken are Lepcha, Bhutea, Nepauli, Tibetan, Hindi, Ben-
gali, and Hindustani. There is further a hill patois called
Pahari, written in Hindi or Devanagri (“Language of the
Gods”), and used in all official police reports. Sanskrit is
also understood and written by the Lamas.


CHAPTER IV.
BOTANICAL FEATURES.
Belts of Vegetation—Plant Zife of the Zerai—Commence-
ment of the Hill Forests—Tropical Trees—The Temperate
Zone—Magnificent Forest Scenery—Dearth of Fruits—
Successful Cultivation of European Vegetables—English
A/ozwers—Athododendrons and Magnolias—A, and Zife on
the Aea/s—The AEegion of Perpetual Snozw.
THE zones of vegetation through which the traveller
passes in ascending the Himalayas are well-marked, and on
a clear day, standing upon one of the lofty Spurs, the ob-
server can easily distinguish these well-defined belts of
varied plant life. From the Terai to the limit of perpetual
snow a dozen climates are passed through, each possessing
its own distinctive flora.
The Darjeeling Terai is covered with stunted and bushy
timber. The valuable săl tree has been wholly destroyed,
though it is met with in abundance in the Nepaulese Terai,
this latter district being called the Morung. In the sub-
montane country the grass is very rich, partly owing to the
moisture of the climate, and partly to the retiring waters of
the rivers. Large herds of cattle from the plains of the
Ganges are driven to these feeding grounds. There are
also many kinds of great coarse grasses, sometimes twenty
feet in height, which are burnt down by the Mechis so as
to afford them cultivable patches. The vegetation of the
D. G. 3


34 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
Terai differs entirely from that of the Indian plains, and is
distinctly Himalayan. The trees chiefly met with are the
acacia, dalbergia Sissoo, and a Scarlet-fruited sterculia.
There are numerous climbers—among them convolvulus,
vines, and bignonias. Terrestrial orchids appear, with ferns
and weeds of hot, damp regions.
From the plains to a height of I, ooo feet a giant forest
replaces the stunted trees of the Terai. The gulleys are chok-
ed with vegetation, the trunks of the trees are richly clothed
with epiphytal orchids, pendulous lycopodia, many ferns,
and similar types of the hottest and dampest climates. The
white or lilac blossoms of the convolvulus, like thunbergia
and other acanthaceae, are also predominant and very
handsome features of the shrubby vegetation. A succulent
character pervades the bushes and herbs, occasioned by
the prevalence of the nettle tribe. Large bamboos rather
crest the hills than court the deeper shade. The charac-
teristic vegetation of this zone is as follows:–Figs of five
kinds, date trees (phoenia), Wallichia caryotoides, cycas
pectinata, twelve kinds of bamboo, phylanthus emblica,
acacia, grislea, marlea, Sterculia, dillenia, Cassia, trophis
sissen, butea, mimosa, Catechu, Soapworts, tereben-
thaceae, symplocus, climbing leguminosae, cucurbitaceae,
wild mulberry, three kinds of nettle, boehmeria euphorbia,
turmeric, ginger, ferns in great variety, acanthaceae,
bondellata, lycopodia, randia, and oak.
As the ascent continues, between 1,000 and 4,000 feet,
the prevalent timber becomes more gigantic, and is fes-
tooned by climbing leguminosae, which sometimes sheath
the trunks, or span the forest with huge cables, binding
tree to tree. Their trunks are also clothed with orchids,
climbing pothos, peppers, vines, convolvulus, and bignonias.


BOTANICAL FEATURES. 35
The beauty of the drapery of the pothos leaves is pre-
eminent, whether for the graceful folds the foliage assumes,
or for the liveliness of its colour. Among the smaller trees,
the wild banana is conspicuous and abundant, its crown
of very beautiful foliage contrasting with the smaller-leaved
plants amongst which it nestles; next comes a screw-pine
(Pandanus) with a straight stem and a tuft of leaves, each
eight or ten feet long, waving on all sides. Bamboo
abounds everywhere : its dense tufts of culms, Ioo feet and
upwards high, are as thick at the base as a man's thigh.
Twenty or thirty species of ferns, including a tree-fern, are
met with, luxuriant and handsome ; while foliaceous lichens
and a few mosses appear at 2, ooo feet. Among the other
vegetation are gordonia, pandanus, Săl, toon, bombax or
cotton tree, banian and others of the genus ficus, orange,
peach, lemon, and wormwood. Such is the plant-life of
the tropical forests of the outer Himalayas.
At about 4,000 feet a great change takes place in the
vegetation, marked first by the appearance of an English-
looking bramble, with a very good yellow fruit. It is known
locally as the “yellow raspberry.” Scattered oaks of a
noble species, with lamellated cups and magnificent foliage,
succeed; and along the ridge of the mountain to Kurseong,
4,860 feet above sea-level, the change in the flora is com-
plete. Here now the birch and maple trees are found, and
there are quite a number of plants reminding one of the
temperate climate of England—the violet, stellaria, arum,
viccinium, wild strawberry, and geranium. Mosses and
lichens carpet the roadsides and banks ; the birds and
insects are very different from those below ; the wind
blows colder; and everything proclaims a marked change
in climatic conditions. Mingled with these English-like
flowers are tree-ferns, pothos, bananas, palms, figs, peppers


36 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
numbers of epiphytal orchids, and similar genuine tropical
genera, the uniform temperature and humidity of the cli-
mate favouring the extension of tropical plant-life into a
temperate region, exactly as the same conditons cause simi-
lar forms to attain higher latitudes in the Southern hemis-
phere (as in New Zealand, Tasmania, and Chili) than they
do in the northern. This mixture of temperate and tropi-
cal vegetation continues for 2, ooo feet above Kurseong.
Ascending from Kurseong, the traveller zigzags along
the face of mountains clothed with magnificent forests of
chestnut, walnut, oaks, and laurels. Dr. Hooker vividly
describes this glorious wealth of plant-life. “It is difficult
to conceive,” he writes, “a grander mass of vegetation; the
straight shafts of the timber-tree shooting aloft, some naked
and clean, with grey, pale, or brown bark; others literally
clothed for yards with a continuous garment of epiphytes,
one mass of blossoms, especially the white orchids, which
bloom in a profuse manner, whitening their trunks like snow.
More bulky trunks were masses of interlacing climbers,
enclosing a hollow, once filled by the strangled tree, which
had long ago decayed away. From the sides and summit
of these, supple branches hung forth, either leafy or naked;
the latter resembling cables flung from one tree to another,
swinging in the breeze, their rocking motion increased by
the weight of great bunches of ferns or orchids, which were
perched aloft in the loops. Perpetual moisture nourishes
this dripping forest ; and pendulous mosses and lichens are
met with in profusion.”
Up to 6,ooo feet the funereal cypress grows well, being
planted in the vicinity of Buddhist temples. It is not
indigenous to Sikkim, but is imported from Tibet and
{Bhutan.


BOTANICAL FEATURES. 37.
At 7,500 feet English-looking plants continue to be met
with in abundance. Here also the noble white rhododen-
dron, with enormous and delicious lemon-scented blossoms
strewing the ground, flourishes in all its glory. The trees
are one-half oaks, one-quarter magnolias, and nearly another
quarter laurels, among which grow Himalayan kinds of
birch, alder, maple, holly, bird-cherry, common cherry,
Weeping willow, and apple. In this zone over sixty species
of ferns may be collected, chiefly of temperate genera.
The absence of leguminous plants is a remarkable feature,
it being too high for the tropical tribes of the warmer eleva-
tions, too low for the Alpines, and too moist for those of
temperate regions; cool, equable, humid climates being
generally unfavourable to these plants. There is also a
marked absence (in the usual proportion at any rate) of
such common orders as compositae, cruciferae, ranuncula-
ceae, and grasses. The plants that predominate are the
rarer and more local families, as those of rhododendron,
Camelia, magnolia, ivy, cornel, honeysuckle, hydrangea,
begonia, and epiphytal orchids. Among the varieties of
rhododendrons—which, it may be parenthetically remarked,
flower in the months of April and May—are the magnifi-
cent white rhododendron with lemon-scented leaves, already
mentioned ; the scarlet rhododendron, vying with it in
beauty, the rhododendron argentum, a tree growing as high
as forty feet, perhaps most glorious of all, with splendid mass
of flowers and leaves twelve to fifteen inches long, wrinkled
and deep green above, silvery below ; and the rhododen-
dron dalhousiae, a slender shrub which grows as an epi-
phyte, and bears from three to six white lemon-scented
bells, four-and-a-half inches long and as many broad, at the
end of each branch.
Darjeeling is not a good fruit-growing district. This is


BOTANICAL FEATURES. 39
Naspatis, a kind of pear, which is fairly nice when stewed,
grow freely on the lower slopes of the hills; and the
passion flower fruit, or grenadilla, is obtainable in the Dar-
jeeling bazar in the months of August and September.
Mangoes are brought from the plains, for though wild in
Sikkim, the cultivated kinds do not thrive. The pine-apple
plant may be seen occasionally, but it does not bear fruit
in these regions. Unlike European fruits, English vege-
tables, on the other hand, thrive remarkably well throughout
the summer at Darjeeling, and the produce is very fair,
sweet and good, but inferior in flavour to the English. Splen-
did potatoes are grown in abundance. English flowers also
flourish splendidly in and around Darjeeling station, almost
all our familiar home kinds being grown. Among many
others geraniums, calceolarias, pinks, roses of the most
charming varieties, mignonette, violets, fuchsias, white and
pink daisies, and dahlias of the most brilliant colours and
every variety of size.
Above Darjeeling the deep humid forests of oaks and
magnolias, with laurels interspersed, continue, with also a
species of cinnamon; this style of vegetation ascending up to
8,500 feet. The magnolias are magnificent. Like the rhodo-
dendrons they flower in the months of April and May.
The white-flowered variety predominates from 7,ooo to
8, ooo feet. It blossoms so profusely that when it sheds its
flowers, the mountain sides often appear as if sprinkled
with snow, The purple-flowered kind hardly occurs below
8, ooo feet. It forms an immense, but rather ugly tree,
black-barked and sparingly branched, leafless in winter and
also during the flowering season, when it puts forth from
the ends of its branches rose-purple, cup-shaped flowers,
whose fleshy petals strew the ground. On its branches
grows the beautiful epiphytal rhododendron dalhousiae


4O GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
already described. At this elevation a large number of
scandent or climbing trees are found, which twist around
the trunks of others and strangle them ; the latter gradually
decay, leaving the sheath of climbers as one of the most
remarkable botanical phenomena of these mountains. Rho-
dodendrons are met with in abundance and great variety,
with superb foliage and beautiful flowers. A kind of moun-
tainash and the common English yew now appear. The trunks
of the last-named are often eighteen feet in circumference;
the red bark is used as a dye, and for staining the foreheads
of the Brahmins in Nepaul. An erect white-flowered rose
(Rosa Sericea, the only species occurring wild in Southern
Sikkim) grows in great profusion ; its numerous inodorous
flowers are pendent, apparently as a protection from the
rain, and it is further remarkable as being the only variety
of rose with four petals instead of five. A currant, some-
times growing epiphytically on the trunks of large trees, is
also common. Amongst the herbs are many of great
interest, as a rhubarb and an aconite, the latter yielding a
deadly poison. Of European genera are to be found
thalictrum, anemone, fumaria, violets, stellaria, hyperi-
cum, geraniums, balsams, epilobium, potentilla, paris, and
convallariae, the root of the last-named also giving a very
virulent poison. The rarity of pines is a most curious
feature in the botany of the region, for between the level
of 2,500 feet (the upper limit of the long-lived pine) and
I, ooo feet (the upper limit of the yew), there is no con-
iferous tree whatever on the Outer ranges of Southern Sikkim.
The general prevalence of figs, and of their allies the nettles,
up to nearly 1 o, ooo feet, is another remarkable point in the
botany of the Sikkim Himalayas. The bramble does not
grow above this level, notwithstanding that it flourishes in
such profusion below it. The entire absence of whortle-ber-


BOTANICAL FEATURES. 4 I
ries and cranberries in the Alpine Himalayas is likewise very
remarkable, and they are not replaced by any substitute.
As the ascent continues, larches and firs, and bushes of
dark juniper, scarlet berberry, and yellow rose are found.
Silver-firs, which attain 35 feetin girth with a trunk unbranch
ed for 4o feet, are met with, but are gradually replaced by
evergreen rhododendrons, which grow in inconceivable
profusion, especially on the slopes facing the south-east. At
12, ooo feet this is the only form of tree vegetation, besides
scattered bushes of rose spiraea, dwarf juniper, stunted
birch, creeping willow, honey-suckle, berberry, and moun-
tain ash. Dwarf rhododendrons, with strongly-scented
leaves, and abundance of a little andromeda, with woody
stems and tufted branches, give a heathery appearance to
the hill-sides, the prevalence of lichens, which colour the
rocks, adding an additional feature to the resemblance to
Scotch Highland scenery. Here are also found, most
curious to tell, two of the commonest of all British weeds, a
grass (Poa annua) and the shepherd's purse. At 13, ooo
feet the ground becomes everywhere hard and frozen, and
now only such plants as compositae, grass, and arenaria are
found. One curious mountain plant, Saussurea gossypina,
forms great clubs of the softest white wool, six inches to a
foot high, its flowers and leaves seeming clothed with the
warmest fur that nature can devise. But generally speak-
ing, the Alpine plants of the Himalayas are quite unprovid-
ed with any special protection of this kind. At these great
elevations also are found, lurking in nooks, such plants as
tufted alsinaceous, Saussurea, parnassia, minute primroses,
draba, wormwoods, saxifrages, gentian, forget-me-nots,
white clover, dock, the Alpine larkspur, chick-weed, ZOe/.
Ahinium glaciale, a groundsel, a ranunculus, artemesia,
astragali, androsace, grasses, sedges, lichens, and mosses


42 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
Ponies ascending to these heights, 15, ooo to 19, ooo feet,
will scratch away the snow, and nibble at the scanty
herbage. The line of everlasting snow varies greatly, as
much as 5,000 feet, the range may be taken as 15, ooo to
2O, ooo feet, on different mountains, according to exposure.
Vegetation, therefore, ceases sooner on some peaks than on
others. At 19, ooo feet Dr. Hooker found an Arctic Euro-
pean lichen (Zecidea oreima), so faintly discolouring the rocks
as hardly to be detected without a magnifying glass At
22, ooo feet he met with a yellow lichen (Borrera), but
this was only a visitor, migrating over the lofty slopes of
Tibet, blown about by violent winds. This is the highest
point at which plant-life has ever been discovered. Of
Course these immense elevations do not occur in the Dar-
jeeling District, but we have strayed beyond to the lofty
mountains on the Tibetan frontier so as to make this
synopsis of Himalayan botany complete.


CHAPTER V.
NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY.
Aird Zife in the Zerai—Złs Arezz—Animals on the Hills—
A.eeches—Insect Scourges—Moths and Butterflies—Birds–
Aish–ZXomestic Animals—Geological Areatures—Minera/
froducis—Moraines.
THE animal life of the Darjeeling District presents no
such grand and unique features as the plant-life. In the
Terai, birds are a conspicuous feature of the natural history,
being of many species interesting either from their habits,
beauty, or extensive distribution. During one journey Dr.
Hooker noted no fewer than sixteen kinds of swimming
birds, several of them migratory and English. These in-
cluded the shoveller; white-eyed and common ducks; the
merganser, the Brahmini, and the Indian goose; common
and Gargany teal; two kinds of gull; one of Shearwater,
three of tern, and one of cormorant. Besides these he met
with three kinds of egret, the large crane, stork, green
heron, and the demoiselle; the English sand-martin, king-
fisher, peregrine falcon, sparrow-hawk, kestrel, and the
European vulture, the wild peacock, and jungle fowl. In
addition to all these varieties, the Terai has at least Ioo
peculiarly Indian birds, of which the more remarkable
are several kinds of mina, starling, vulture, kingfisher,
magpie, quail, Snipe, wood-cock, green-pigeon, partridge,
florican, and lapwing. Of larger animals, tigers, rhinoceros,


44 GUIDE BOOK TO I)ARJEELING.
deer, wild hog, and a distinct species of dwarf hog are pretty
numerous, while a few elephants and wolves are also found.
The hare abounds, and with the teal, is the best game in
this part of India. In the hill-districts there is a decided
scarcity of animal life. Sambur deer are found on the
lower ranges, and here elephants and tigers are occasion-
ally encountered. Bears, leopards, and musk deer are to
be met with in the upper ranges, the bears descending the
hills when the maize crops are approaching ripeness. Tigers
are very occasionally seen and still more rarely shot, but
leopards are somewhat more common. Big game, however,
have been practically extirminated in the lower hills by the
extension of the tea-planting industry.
The last time a bear was shot within five miles of Dar-
jeeling station was about 1884, and sportsmen have to go
far afield if they are to get a shot at anything. The musk
deer is a pretty grey animal, the size of a roebuck, and
Something resembling it, with coarse fur, short horns, and
two projecting teeth from the upper jaw. The musk, which
hangs in a pouch near the navel of the male, is the well-
known object of traffic throughout India. The female and
the young male are very good eating. The musk deer
ranges between 8,000 and 13, ooo feet on the Himalayas,
often scenting the air for many hundred yards. In the
wooded valleys barking deer are tolerably plentiful, and an
occasional wild hog may be encountered. The inevitable
jackal and the pariah dog abound in every district. Packs
of wild dogs are sometimes met with, and occasionally
cause considerable injury to cattle even in the neighbour-
hood of Darjeeling. On the skirts of the pine forests
large monkeys are found, and a curious long-tailed animal,
Ailurus ochraceus, peculiar to the Himalaya, something
between a diminutive bear and a squirrel, Marmots and


NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOILOGY. 45
tailless rats (Goomcher) are to be found at high altitudes,
these migrating into Sikkim from Tibet. The last remark
also applies to the wild sheep, a huge animal of whose
dimensions the term sheep gives no idea ; they are very
long-legged, stand as high as a calf, and have enormous
horns, a trophy much coveted but rarely secured by the
sportsman.
Snakes are comparatively rare in the Himalayas, and as
a rule very shy. The large cobra does not inhabit the
mountain regions. The venomous black Cobra, however, is
met with occasionally, and about a dozen species of viper
have been identified. Harmless green Snakes are common
enough, likewise the beautiful whip-snakes which, with tail
coiled round twigs of trees, dart an unerring aim at their
insect prey. Lizards are very numerous, as also is the
common Bengal toad in the marshes, a remarkable instance
of wide geographical distribution, the same Batrachian being
common at the level of the sea under the tropics. In
many districts tree frogs create a great disturbance during
the night with their peculiar metallic clack. Leeches liter-
ally swarm up to 8,000 feet, and are most troublesome
during the rains both to man and beast. They lurk in the
grass jungle and the leaves of trees, and boots and gaiters
are unavailing to keep them out. Dr. Hooker says that he
had often 50 or 60 at one time on his ankles. Their bite
is painless, but is followed by considerable effusion of
blood. The punctures should not be scratched, otherwise
sores may result, especially in the case of those whose
constitutions happen to be low.
Hornets and scorpions are occasionally met with, and
both sometimes inflict very painful stings on travellers.
Bees are widely distributed. They build pendulous nests,


48 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
One of the most remarkable facts in the zoology of Asia is
that no trout or salmon inhabit any of the rivers that flow
south from the Himalayan range into India, the so-called
Himalayan trout being merely a species of Carp ; but this
widely-distributed natural order of fish is found in the Oxus,
and in all the waters of Central Asia that flow north and
West.
The domestic animals of Darjeeling merit a few words of
mention. The hardy Tibetan ponies we have already re-
ferred to, and may just add that for Sure-footed carriers
along the most dangerous-looking paths they can hardly be
surpassed. The distances they will travel, the heights they
will ascend to, and the weights they will carry during a
working day, are also remarkable. The cows of the district,
though generally resembling the English in form, stature,
and colour, have humps, and grunt rather than low. The
yak comes from Tibet, and is a very tame, domestic animal,
often handsome, and a true bison in appearance. It is
invaluable from its strength and hardiness, accomplishing,
at a slow pace, twenty miles a day, bearing either two bags
of salt or rice, or four to six planks of pinewood slung along
both flanks. Their ears are generally pierced, and orna-
mented with a tuft of Scarlet worsted ; they have large and
beautiful eyes, spreading horns, long silky hair, and grand
bushy tails ; black is their prevailing colour, but red, dun,
parti-coloured, and white are common. In winter, the
flocks graze below 8,000 feet, in consequence of the great
quantity of snow above that height; in summer they find
pasturage as high as I 7,ooo feet, consisting of grass and
small tufted sedges, on which they browse with avidity.
The yak is chiefly used as a beast of burden; and much of
the wealth of its owner is derived from its rich milk and
curd, which are eaten either fresh or dried, or powdered


NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY. 49
into a kind of meal. It is also ridden, especially by the
Lamas, who find its shaggy Coat warm and its pace easy ;
under such circumstances it is always led. The yak can-
not bear damp heat, for which reason it will not live in
summer below 7,ooo feet, where liver disease carries it off
in a very few years. The wild yak or bison of Central Asia,
the progenitor of the tame variety, is immensely greater in
size, it being, indeed, the largest animal found in Tibet. A
good, though not an unusually large, specimen, stuffed,
may be seen in the Mammal Gallery of the Indian Mu-
seum, Calcutta, and may be compared with the diminutive
domesticated yak, the contrast being a striking one. Sheep
are used as beasts of burden throughout the hill-country.
They are very tame, patient creatures, travelling twelve miles
a day with great ease, and being indifferent to, rocky
ground. They carry a load of 40 lbs. Goats and dogs are
utilized in the same way. Pigs are kept and thrive, while
geese, ducks, and fowls are also reared in large numbers.
The Sikkim cock does not wake the morning with the
shrill crow of the English chanticleer ; his note is more
a prolonged, howling screech. This is one case out of
several where we meet in India animals resembling Our
own varieties at home to the eye, but not to the ear.
Turning now to the geological features of the region, we
find that the Terai is composed of alternate beds of Sand,
gravel, and boulders brought down from the mountains.
These deposits contain no fossils. The general appearance
and mineral constituents favour the theory that the base of
the Sikkim Himalayas was once washed by a great Ocean,
which received the contents of its rivers, and wore away its
bluff spurs, the alluvium of the Gangetic Valley being no
doubt deposited in deep water, whilst the coarser matter
was accumulating at the foot of the mountains. Ascending
D. G. 4.


5O GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
from the Terai, we have soft massive sand-stone and clunch
beds; these make up the Tertiaries, which occur as a narrow
band fringing the base of the hills. North of these is a
narrow band of Damuda rocks in a more or less altered
condition, and including various alternations of quartzite,
shales, slate, and beds of friable anthacrite coal. Overlying
these are some thousand feet of slates, mostly of grey and
green tints, and including here and there a band of quartz.
ite. As the hills are ascended, these slates are found
to pass, more or less gradually, through mica-schist into
gneiss. From Kurseong to Darjeeling the gneiss is contin-
uous, verging in some places towards mica-Schist. Dolo-
mite occurs at a still higher altitude, and within British
territory. There is no granite in the Darjeeling District
proper, but further north, at loftier ranges, it penetrates the
gneiss in the form of numerous veins, the intrusive rock
being sometimes fine-grained, in other cases largely crys-
tallized and composed of pearly white prisms of felspar,
glassy quartz, and milk-white flat plates of mica, with occa-
sional large crysuals of tourmaline.
The mountainous district of Darjeeling has been carefully
investigated for minerals by the officers of the Geological
Survey. Coal measures exist at several points, which are
easily exposed, and give a good chemical analysis. The
difficulty, however, in working them remuneratively would
be very great; moreover, the friable nature of the coal, the
high inclination of the seams, their rapid variations in
thickness, and the shattered condition of the rocks, are
conditions against coal-mining ever becoming a remunera-
tive industry in Darjeeling. It is said, however, that the
experiment is about to be tried. Both iron and copper are
worked in several places by the Nepaulese, but the charac-
ter and accessibility of the mines are not such as to attract


RIV li RS AND MOUNTAINS. 55
There are very few lakes in Darjeeling, only two being of
any importance, and these small. The one is a few miles
east of the Teesta, and is 550 yards long by 200 yards
broad; the other lies about six miles south-west of Hope
Town.
The great mass of mountains which constitute Darjeeling
and stretch beyond it to the north almost baffle description,
The loftiest peaks are situated outside British territory;
but within it, on the Singli La Range, marching with Nepaul,
are several mountains above Io, ooo feet in height. The
highest of these are—Phalut, height 1 1,811 feet; Saburkum,
II,636 feet; and Tango, Io, of 4 feet. Situng is another
bold peak in the district, of conical form, situated south-
east of Darjeeling station. The two great points near lar-
jeeling station from which to view the Snowy ranges are
Observatory Hill and Tiger Hill, the range of sight from the
latter being more extensive—Mount Everest, distant Io.7
miles, being in view from it on a clear day. Mount
Everest lies north-west from Darjeeling; and Kinchinjunga.
45 miles distant, almost due north ; between these moun-
tains, the two loftiest in the world, stretches the great range
of perpetual snow. It is impossible, by written description,
to localize the position of each individual peak. The
following table, however, giving names, heights, and distances
in miles on a direct line from Darjeeling, will be found
useful. By aid of a good map the position of the mountains
may be determined ; or, better still, some one acquainted
with the locality may point them out to the visitor.
AWame. Beight. Distance.
Everest (from Tiger Hill) ... 29, OO2 . . . ... I O7
Kinchinjunga tº º s ... 28, IS6 ... ... 45
Janu (in Nepaul) ... ... 25.304 . . . ... 46
Kabru tº ſº tº ... 24,015 . . . • . . 40


56 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
AWame.
Chumala Rhi
Pauhan Rhi
Donkia Rhi
Kangchenjhau
Chomiumo tº tº 0 e - e.
Pandim
Takcham
Narsing
Narim
Dependikang or Chumanago -.
Kabur Peak e - tº * @ s
Gipmochi
Tagula
Lampheram
Lingtu . . . . .
ICirsong
Singli La
Sundukphu
Phalut
Saburkum * - O
Menan (in Bhutan)
Richila (in Bhutan)
Tonglo * * *.
Tendong * - ©
Senchal Hill & © 6
Tiger Hill
Chumsering
Pemayangtse
Senon • •- .
Rangi un
Songchonglo & © e tº º e
Rinchinpung º ºg wº
Neor
Deolo
Aleight.
23.944
23, 186
23, 136
22. 509
22,300
22, OI7
I9,2OO
18, 145
I 7,572
I 7,325
I5,827
14,518
13,348
I2,827
12,612
12,258
I2, 126
II,929
II,811
II,636
10,637
I O, SOO
IO,O74
8,676
8,600
8,514
6,945
6,922
6,614
6,305
6,266
6, 191
6,005
5,590
-*
Distance.
82
I 5
On many of the peaks are religious monasteries occupied
by Lamas. These are usually barn-like structures erected
on a rude stone platform.


RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS. 57
The following are the heights of the chief Passes into
Tibet, in their order from south to north :— -
Jelep La Pass ... iº tº º ... I4,388 feet.
Tankra La Pass ... tº º º ... I6,000 , ,
Donkia Pass tº e tº & © e ... 18,400 , ,
Kongralama La Pass * * * ... I6,000 , ,
The Jelep La Pass is the chief channel of trade, being open
all the year round. -
No word-painting can adequately depict the grandeur
of the spectacle presented by the snowy range of Himalayan
mountains. When the clouds clear away and the magni-
ficent sight bursts upon the spectator's gaze, the stupendous
height of the peaks comes upon him as a great surprise.
The line of everlasting snow can be traced from east to
west almost as far as the eye can reach, the mighty Everest
and the almost as grand Kinchinjunga forming what we
may call the Pillars of Hercules at either extremity. Be-
tween these two giant mountains, the highest known peaks
in the world, runs a jagged line of dazzling white. Betwixt
this line and the spectator intervene imposing mountain
ranges, snow-capped and broken by almost perpendicular
gorges. Nearer still is a sea of wooded hills, with rivers
deep down threading dense tropical forests like silver lines,
the whole forming what is beyond all question the most
sublime mountain landscape in the world.
When tinged by the rays of the rising or the setting
sun, the snowy range is seen in its grandest aspect. The
delicate tints of pink, amber, and gold baffle descrip-
tion. Probably no man ever beheld the glorious scene
under more favourable conditions or from more numerous
points of view than Dr. Hooker. The following is a vivid
description of the spectacle —“The firmament appeared of


58 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
a pale steel blue, and a broad low arch spanned the horizon,
bounded by a line of the little fleecy clouds; below this the
sky was of a golden yellow, while in successively deeper
strata, many belts or ribbons of vapour appeared to press
upon the plains, the lowest of which was of a dark leaden
hue, the upper more purple, and vanishing into the pale
yellow above. Gradually the golden lines grew dim, and
the blues and purples gained depth of colour; till the Sun
set behind the dark blue-peaked mountains in a flood of
crimson and purple, sending broad beams of gray shade
and purple light up to the zenith and all around. As
evening advanced, mists rapidly formed below me in little
isolated clouds, which coalesced and spread out like a
heaving sea, leaving nothing above their surface but the
ridges and spurs of the adjacent mountains. This rose like
Capes, promontories, and islands, of the darkest leaden hue,
bristling with pines, and advancing boldly into the Snowy
Ocean, or starting from its bed in the strongest relief. As
darkness came on, and the stars arose, a light fog gathered
round me, and I quitted with reluctance one of the most
impressive and magic scenes I had ever beheld.” Here is
another sunset effect, painted as graphically as words can
paint such a display of nature :-‘‘As the sun declined, the
snow at our feet reflected the most delicate peach-bloom
hue ; and looking west from the top of the Pass, the scenery
was gorgeous beyond description, for the Sun was just
plunging into a sea of mist, in a blaze of the ruddiest
coppery hue. As it sank, the Nepaul peaks to the right
assumed more definite, darker, and gigantic forms, and
floods of light shot across the misty ocean, bathing the
landscape in the most wonderful and indescribable chang-
ing tints. While the luminary was vanishing, the whole
horizon glowed like copper from a smelting furnace, and


6o GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
grandeur of the “cloud - capp'd towers, the gorgeous
palaces,” that stand forth against the horizon, calm, cold,
stately, sublime in their immutability, awe-inspiring in their
loneliness. But it is impossible to express in words the
impressions and sensations that are given rise to by the
contemplation of these stupendous mountains. The most
eloquent descriptions cannot but fail to convey to the
mind's eye the magnificence of the panorama. It must be
gazed upon to be appreciated. Once witnessed, the scene
will remain for ever ineffacble from the memory.


THE STATION OF DARJEELING. 63
of scenery along this pathway are magnificent, every bend
disclosing new beauties.
Near Government House is the Cricket Ground; also the
Town Hall, and St. Andrew's Church. The Town Hall is,
from a social point of view, the most important public
building in Darjeeling. It is a plain but commodious
structure, and capitally suited for the purposes for which
it is used. Here are the head-quarters of the Station Amuse-
ment Club. Well laid out Tennis Courts adjoin the build-
ing, and Balls, Concerts, and Theatrical Entertainments are
also held under the auspices of the Club. The Doorgah
Poojah holidays, at the end of September and beginning
of October, when “all Calcutta” comes up for a few days to
the hills, is especially the season of festivity, the Club
organizing for the occasion Theatricals, a Saturday “Pop,”
Rifle Shooting Competitions, Cricket Matches, Sports, Sub-
scription Balls, a Fancy Dress Ball, and a Fancy Fair,
During these ten days Darjeeling is at its gayest. When
the Ball Room is not required for other purposes, the Club
uses it as a Skating Rink, this amusement being one of the
most popular and fashionable in the station. To become a
member of the Amusement Club, an introduction by a
member is necessary. The subscription is Rs. 8 per month
for a single person who plays Tennis, Rs. 6 without use of
Tennis courts; for a family Rs. 12. The Rink subscription
is separate, being Re. I per month, with Rs. 4 entrance fee,
The Town Hall also contains reading and other rooms, the
former being supplied by the Amusement Club with the
leading newspapers and periodicals of the day.
Adjoining the Town Hall is St. Andrew's Church, a plain
barn-like structure occupying the summit of a little knoll.
The Old Church, on the same site, was founded in 1843.


64 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
The foundation - stone of the present edifice was laid by
Bishop Milman in 1870. The Church seats about 360 people.
The east window is rather pretty, and there are about a dozen
tablets in memory of former residents, planters in the
neighbourhood, and visitors who have chanced to die a
Darjeeling. The most notable is that to Lieutenant-General
Lloyd, who took part in the founding of Darjeeling as a
British Sanitarium (wide Historical Chapter), and who died
in the station in 1865, aged 76 years. The Chaplain of St.
Andrew’s Church also ministers to the soldiers at Jalapahar.
. On the western slope of the hill, below The Shrubbery, is
the new Secretariat, a very handsome building completed in
1887. It contains the offices of the Deputy Commissioner,
and of the other Government officials of the district, and
also the Law Courts. Not far off is the cemetery, finely
laid out on the hill-side in several terraces with steps com-
municating. Many of the gravestones are of great interest.
One dated 11th August 1886, and erected by the Asiatic
Society of Bengal, is to the memory of H. J. Alexander
Csona de Korosie, a native of Hungary, and an eminent
philologist. He compiled a dictionary and grammar of the
Tibetan language, and died at Darjeeling on his way to
Lhassa. A number of distinguished soldiers and explorers
(several of these latter of foreign nationality) are buried
here; likewise many children, doubtless brought up from
the plains too late for the bracing hill air to restore them to
health. On the same slope, but higher up, are the Loretto
Convent School for Girls and St. Joseph's School for Boys,
both managed by the Jesuit community; and also a small
Roman Catholic Chapel.
Beneath St. Andrew's Church and the Town Hall, with the
Eden Sanitarium midway between, is the Lloyd Botanic


66 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
abundance of water for most months of the year caused
Rungaroon to be selected, an additional reason being that
the land was Government property. The choice, however,
as we shall see, proved to be an unfortunate one. Runga-
roon soon grew to be a garden of great beauty — which it
indeed is to this day, being a favourite place for pic-nic
parties (see chapter on “Excursions”). Plants of all kinds
—epiphytes, Orchids, gingers, &c., that would grow at the
elevation of Rungaroon, were collected and attached to the
trees, and a representative piece of virgin forest was con-
structed. The vacant spaces were filled up with species of
plants indigenous to Nepaul, Sikkim, and Bhutan. A third
section was reserved for exotic plants of botanical interest
and suited to the clima!e and elevation. More attention,
however, was from the first given to the growth of indige.
nous plants than to that of exotics, and every flowering
plant growing naturally in these districts between 8,000 feet
and 9,000 feet, was considered worthy of being tried,
either in the cleared or forest portions of the garden.
However disaster fell upon the garden. The position
proved to be a most exposed one at certain seasons of the
year, and it was swept by periodical hail-storms, these com-
pletely destroying the young plants, and severely damaging
even the older trees. The conclusion was reluctantly come
to in 1875 that the experiment would have to be aban-
doned. At this juncture Mr. Lloyd, of Lloyd's Bank,
Darjeeling, came forward with the handsome offer of the site
on which the present Botanic Garden stands on the slope
below the bazar. The offer was accepted by Government,
and the situation has been found to be a most suitable one,
being within the station and well sheltered. Rungaroon,
it may be added, is still used by Government as a forest.
aursery. The Lloyd Garden is tastefully laid out, and


THE STATION OF DARJEELING. 67
contains a number of conservatories. The flowers chiefly
cultivated are English varieties, there being few flowering
plants at this elevation indigenous to the neighbourhood,
and those from a lower level dying off during the cold
season. The one great drawback to the garden is the
prevalence of huge grubs, some of them five inches long
and over an inch in circumference, which literally infest
the place; this is supposed to be due to the fact that close
by was the old municipal “tip” for town refuse. Careful
experiments are also made in the garden in naturalising
English potatoes. At first these succeeded splendidly in
and around Darjeeling station, but latterly there has been a
falling off, due to the fact that altered climatic conditions
deteriorate the tubers and render them more liable to
disease. The garden works at a profit, the net gain in the
year 1887-88 being close on Rs. 1, ooo. . . " ..
Near the Lloyd Botanic Garden is Lochnagar, where the
Scotch Mission is located. It has a church, also used as a
school-room, an Anglo-Vernacular School, a Vernacular
school, a printing press, a bazar preaching-house, and a
book depôt. Attached to the Mission are four catechists,
for the Nepaulese, Lepchas, Bhuteas, and plainsmen re-
spectively. The people are preached to in the bazar on
Sundays, and visited at their houses and on the tea-gardens'
on week days. The Mission has also twenty Vernacular
schools scattered all over the division, with an attendance
of over 8oo pupils, of whom about Ioo are girls. Work in
translating the Gospels into the various Vernaculars is also
performed by the Mission.
Further down the slope, immediately beneath the Botanic
Garden, is the jail, an establishment of unpretentious ap-
pearance, consisting of several barracks surrounded by a.


THE STATION OF DARJEELING. 69
The vending and purchasing proceed amidst much noise,
the light-hearted hill people, men and women, laughing,
Singing, shouting, playing practical jokes on each other,
every broad face shining with good temper and mirth.
The rosy-cheeked women, some of them with really hand-
Some faces, are quite unlike their Hindoo sisters in the
plains; they enjoy the most perfect freedom, and laugh and
romp about like veritable children. Many of them have
their youngest-born strapped to their back in the inevitable
bamboo basket, little yellow chubby morsels of humanity,
pretty enough, though we cannot endorse the opinion of
the Hon’ble Emily Eden, as expressed in her diary, that
“little native babies are much prettier than little English
ditto.” Altogether, this bright and merry Sunday morning
Scene should on no account be missed by the visitor to
Darjeeling.
When in the bazar, the visitor should not fail to pay a
visit to the depôt of Mr. Paul Möwis, which forms the only
museum, so to speak, in the locality. It always contains a
large assortment of curios, such as praying-wheels of
various kinds, tom-toms made of human skulls, and trum-
pets made of human thigh-bones, these being used in the
Buddhist temples, lamps, censers, bells, brass cups, and
other furnishings of temples, metal figures of Buddha, and
weapons used by all kinds of hill races. It may here be
explained that nearly all the curiosities for sale in Darjeel-
ing are made simply for the dealers, it being very difficult
to get a genuine article that has been in actual use in the
temples or the houses of the people. The hand praying-
wheels are most curious; they are revolved from left to
right, to the monotonous dirge of “Om Mani Padmi Om,”
meaning, “Hail to him of the Lotus and the Jewel.” The
prayers are inside the cylinder, printed from wood on bands


7o GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
of paper a yard long, each band having inscribed upon it
four prayers. These are in Sanscrit, the language in which
the Lamas keep all their records. The double-headed
tom-tom, or small drum, is formed of two crowns of human
skulls cemented together back to back ; each face is then
covered with parchment, and encloses some pebbles. The
human thighbone fashioned into a trumpet is also very
remarkable. It is often that of a Lama, and is valuable
according to its length. A Darjeeling tradition tells that
one of the first Europeans buried at the station, a tall man,
was disinterred by resurrectionist Bhuteas for his “trum-
pet-bones.” Among the other curios, may be mentioned
the Bhutea locks, made of brass, a most ingenious piece
of mechanism ; they serve their purpose admirably, and are
an amusing puzzle as well. Mr. Möwis is also an enthusi-
astic entomologist, holding diplomas from the Universities
of Berlin and Leipsic. He has always on show and for
sale beautiful moths, butterflies, and beetles, of which,
taken together, there are some Io, ooo varieties to be found
in the District of Darjeeling.
Beneath the bazar is the Lowis Sanitarium for natives
described hereafter. Still further down is Fernie Cottage,
the Bhutea-Lepcha boarding school. A few hundred
yards to the South of the bazar is the Railway Station, a
very plain erection. On the slope above the bazar and the
railway are the Police Lines, the public Dispensary, the
Post and Telegraph Office, the Union Chapel, the office of
the Darjeeling Mezws, and the Darjeeling Club House.
The three first named call for no special mention. The
Union Chapel is a plain edifice, belonging to the Dissenting
community. The Darjeeling AWews, the only newspaper
in the district, is an old-established journal. It is published
weekly, on Saturdays, and contains lists of visitors and


"THE STATION OF DARJEELING. 7 I
residents. It also serves as a guide to the amusements
and doings of the day. The Darjeeling Club has for its
home a very handsome and well-situated bungalow. . It
admits two classes of members, permanent and tempo-
rary. Admission to permanent membership is by ballot,
the entrance fee being Rs. 70, and the monthly subscrip-
tion Rs. 7 to Rs. 3, according to distance from the station.
Visitors to Darjeeling may, if considered eligible, be made
temporary members by the Committee for any period not
exceeding three months; they have to be proposed and
seconded by permanent members, and pay a monthly sub-
scription of one gold mohur, or Rs. 16. The Club contains
sleeping accommodation for resident members, or members
temporarily visiting the station. It also has a library, from
which books may be taken by ladies residing in the town
without any gentleman of their families, on payment of a
monthly subscription of Rs. 4.
Two and-a-half miles south of the Chaurusta is the military
depôt of Jalapahar. It is reached by the Auckland and
Western Jalapahar roads. On the slopes above these high-
ways are many fine bungalows, among them being Little
Chevremont, the hill home of the Lord Bishop of Calcutta.
Further along is Colinton, the residence of the Ezra family
of Caloutta, quite the “show’’ bungalow of the station, the
large glass-houses attached being filled with a grand display
of flowers. The hill is crowned by the extensive estate of
St. Paul's School, dealt with fully in a chapter to follow.
Here also is the Qbservatory, of which more anon. At
Jalapahar there are a parade ground and barracks accom-
modating 150 soldiers. There are also quarters for a
mounted battery of artillery. In connection with the depôt
are a Protestant Church and a Catholic Chapel, where
services are held by the Pastor of St. Andrew's Church,


72 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJ EELING.
and by the Jesuit Fathers from Loretto College respectively.
The sanitarium for soldiers used to be still further along
the spur of hills, at Senchal, over 8, ooo feet high ; but the
situation was found to be too cold and exposed, and the
site was changed to the present one.
The hotels in Darjeeling are two in number, Wood-
lands and Drum-Druid, being the names of the establish-
ments. Both are well-conducted. The hotel charges are
Rs. 7 per diem, or Rs 6 per diem when the stay made is
for a month. Ponies cost Rs. 3 per diem, or Rs. 4 when
the ride extends beyond the limits of the station. It may
here also be mentioned that “dandies,” or palanquins, are
paid for at the rate of 4 annas each carrier for the first hour,
and 2 pice an hour afterwards, or 8 annas a day; two
Carriers suffice for a child, and three or four for an adult.
There are a number of excellent boardinghouses in
Darjeeling, the principal being Rockville, Rosebank (for-
merly the residence of the Maharajah of Burdwan), Gresham
House, Step-a-side, Ada Villa, and Meadow Bank, the last-
named being in connection with Drum-Druid Hotel. The
charges average Rs. 6 per diem.
A number of improvements are contemplated in the
station. The bazar, for example, has been found to be
inconveniently small, and to serve its purpose there should
be much more covered space. At present it is nearly all
open, there being only two roofed sheds of any dimensions,
one being a general market, and the other the meat market.
We believe the Municipality intend to remedy this gradu-
ally, by spending a sum of RS. Io, ooo annually for five
years. This expenditure, it is calculated, will provide the
town with a spacious bazar, with roofing over its whole area.
A further improvement would be the holding of markets


THE STATION OF DARJEELING. 73
more frequently than once a week. Darjeeling is increasing
rapidly, and this system is found to be quite behind the
age, often causing perplexity to householders as to the pro-
curing of supplies towards the end of the week. Another
Municipal scheme in embryo is to convert the old Town Hall
in the bazar, a small portion of which is at present occupied
by the Government Printing Press, into a place of recrea-
tion for the middle-class Europeans who now resort in such
numbers to the station. The Amusement Club, which has
its quarters at the new Town Hall, is rather exclusive—
inevitably so, it must be admitted, by everyone who knows
Indian Society; the carrying out of this proposal would,
accordingly, meet a very proper demand, the facilities for
recreation being thus equalized in the case of both classes.
We understand also that a private company has taken up
one of the roads above the bazar, and intends to build there
some fifteen small double-storeyed houses for Europeans
containing four or five rooms, and at rentals not exceeding
Rs. 50 per month. This scheme, when carried out, will
bring up to the station a still larger contingent of middle-
class European visitors, so that the providing of a special
Amusement Club for them becomes all the more desirable.


‘CHAPTER VIII,
THE EUROPEAN AND NATIVE SANITARIUMS.
Establishment of the Eden Sanitarium—/ts Aims and
Objects—Medical Staff—Scale of Charges—Initial Cost—
Zhe Zozvis /ubilee Sanitarium—Z3epartments and Rates
—Success of the Institution.
THE Eden Sanitarium is a handsome building occupying
a commanding situation on a small detached hill almost in
the centre of the station. It is undoubtedly one of the most
useful institutions in the whole of Bengal. The want of a
European hospital in Darjeeling to meet the requirements
of patients and convalescents coming up from the plains
had for long been apparent to the Civil Surgeons in charge
of the station. The matter was represented to the late
Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Ashley Eden, and he warmly
supported the idea of establishing a good and well-organiz-
ed paying European hospital. This was in 1881, and it
was resolved at first to open a temporary hospital giving
private accommodation to Seven patients, and a building
near the Municipal dispensary was adapted and equipped,
partly at the cost of Government and partly from funds
raised by private subscription and from the proceeds of a
bazar held during the Doorgah Poojahs in 1880. The tem-
porary hospital was inaugurated in May 1881, and closed
in April 1883, when the Eden Sanitarium was opened for
the reception of patients. During that time a considerable


THE EUROPEAN AND NATIVE SANITARIUMS. 75
number of patients had been treated in the temporary
hospital, paying one rupee daily only as a hospital charge and
providing their own diet, fuel, and lighting. The success
of the temporary hospital was encouraging to the prospects
of the larger and permanent one, and the hopes then enter-
tained have been more than realized.
The building of the Eden Sanitarium was actually com-
menced in November 1881, and it should have been
handed over by the contractors to Government in August
1882. Delays, however, occurred, more particularly in the
finishing work, and the Committee of Management did not
obtain possession of the building till April 1883. As,
however, the arrangements of the Committee had been
Complete for months past, it was at once possible to open
the institution and admit patients. The invalids occupying
the temporary hospital were transferred to the new Sani-
tarium, and within the first week several patients who had
been waiting for the opening of the institution came up
from Calcutta. The Committee from the first recognized
the fact that in a large number of cases it will always be
necessary to admit a relative or attendant in addition to
the patient. The Sanitarium, as an institution where only
paying patients are received, is materially different from
an ordinary hospital, where a patient is admitted and main-
tained at the cost of the hospital funds, in many cases
charitable, and in India usually provided by Government.
At the Sanitarium the patients are on a totally different
footing, and have a right to expect, in return for what they
pay, quite different treatment and rules to those existing in
ordinary hospitals. It constantly happens that a wife wishes
to be admitted with a sick husband, or zice versá, a mother
accompanies her sick child, or a sick lady is sent to the
hills with her children, or a daughter is in attendance on


76 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING,
a sick father, or even a special nurse accompanies a patient
to the Sanitarium. The institution might as well not exist
if admission were to be refused to these attendants or
dependents. From the first, among those who applied for
and received admission were many persons recovering from
sickness in the plains who were not of a class to be found
in the wards of an ordinary hospital, but rather in general
medical practice. This precisely accords with the aims of
the institution, which offers a change to a convalescent home
and careful medical treatment to invalids pulled down by
severe sickness or suffering from obstinate disease, who are
unable to take the sea voyage which richer people could
afford. It is also recognized by Government that it is
cheaper in the long run to send up its servants to Darjeeling
when they are out of sorts, for a few weeks' treatment in a
European climate instead of their having to take leave, or
linger on in a condition of inefficiency from illness at
Stations in the plains. It has been found that patients
come to the Sanitarium not only from all parts of the Lower
Provinces of Bengal, but also from great and unexpected dis-
tances. It is important to mention that an invalid carriage,
fitted with a spring couch, can be secured for the jour-
ney up the mountain railway, the special charge being
an extra first-class fare (Rs. 16-o-6). There is also an
invalid chair at the ferry over the Ganges, so that every
chance is given to patients whose strength may be greatly
reduced. The staff of the Sanitarium consists of a resident
medical officer, a steward, and two sisters from the St. John the
Baptist (Clewer) community, by arrangement with the Sister
Superior of the Lady Canning Home, Calcutta. The Sisters
superintend the nursing and other domestic arrangements
in place of a matron. Under-nurses are engaged to attend
to Cases that may require special attention, and patients


THE EUROPEAN AND NATIVE SANITAl{IUMS. 77
may also bring their own nurses. The Civil Surgeon of
the District is Manager and Medical Superintendent, and
visits the Sanitarium daily. An influential working Com-
mittee supervises the affairs of the establishment.
The building is a striking feature in the landscape, both
from its position and its ornate style of architecture. It
is two-storeyed, in the form of three sides of a square, the
main block running nearly north and South, the front being
towards the south. The internal arrangements are admir-
ably adapted to the purposes for which the institution was
intended. The rooms and wards are all well warmed,
ventilated, and lighted, and replete with modern conve-
niences and comforts. The centre or front block is for the
accommodation of first-class and intermediate patients, and
the two wings for second and third class respectively. For
the first-class and intermediate there are, on the upper
floor, eight sets of rooms, consisting each of bed, dressing
and bath room, and common sitting and dining rooms.
These rooms are reserved for ladies and married couples,
with or without children. On the ground floor are eight
similar sets of rooms, with common dining and sitting rooms,
for gentlemen. The charge for first-class accommodation
is Rs. 8/- per diem, and for intermediate Rs. 6/- per diem,
which covers rent of rooms, attendance, diet, lighting, fuel,
as well as medical attendance and medicine. A relative,
accompanying with a view to secure constant attendance on
a patient, or any other person in charge of a patient, is per-
mitted to reside in the Sanitarium on the payment of Rs. 6/-
per diem first-class, and Rs. 5/- intermediate, provided the
presence of such relative or attendant does not prevent
the admission of other patients. For children under 12
years and over 3 years of age, accompanying their parents,
the charge is Rs. 3/- daily for first-class, and Re. 1/8 for


THE EUROPEAN AND NATIVE SANITARIUMS. 79
to the ordinary rates. These extra charges may be ascer-
tained on application to the Superintendent. A reduction
in the charges for first and intermediate class patients is
made in the case of Managers and Assistants of Firms,
Tea-Gardens, Indigo and Silk Concerns, Public Companies,
Banks, and generally of large institutions employing Euro-
peans, who subscribe annually to the maintainence of the
Sanitarium according to a fixed scale set forth in the Rules
and Regulations. No persons suffering from infectious or
contagious disease, fits, or insanity, are admitted as patients.
Visitors are allowed between the hours of 7 A M. and 9 P.M.
The cost of the construction of the Eden Sanitarium
was borne by the Bengal Government, the total, with
certain necessary changes and additions, being Rs. 1,72,339.
In this amount is included the cost of the Doulton Pottery
Stoves throughout the building, which burn coal and effect
a great saving in the consumption of fuel. The Govern-
ment also provided the institution with surgical instruments
and a free supply of medicines for the first two years of its
existence. The furnishing and equipment of the hospital
were carried out by public subscription, the total sum col-
lected being Rs. 23,750, of which the Maharajah of Burd-
wan contributed the handsome sum of Rs. Io, ooo. The
popularity of the Institution has steadily grown as its ad-
vantages and able management have become more widely
known. At almost every season of the year it is now occu-
pied to its utmost capacity, the accommodation being for
about Ioo patients.
The Lowis Jubilee Sanitarium, for Natives, established
in 1887 under the auspices of Mr. E. E. Lowis, Commis-
sioner of the Rajshye Division, stands below the railway
station some distance down the hill, The founding of the


CHAPTER IX.
EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EUROPEANS.
Parjeeling as a School Centre—/ēs Advantages—St. Paul’s
School—St. Joseph's College—Zoreſto Convent—ZDarjeeling
Girls' School—Arivate Boarding Schools.
THE climate of Darjeeling is so admirably adapted for
children that it is not surprising to find a large number of
European boarding-schools located in the station. Their
tendency is to multiply still further, for now that parents
find that the conditions of health in Darjeeling are quite
equal to those of England and that provision is made in
the different seminaries for giving their sons and daughters
a high-class education on thoroughly English lines, the
popularity of the place as a school centre is rapidly increas-
ing. The depreciated rupee and the heavy school charges
at home partly account for this result; and yet another
consideration, perhaps most important of all, is that parents
and children do not lose touch of each other, the holidays
are spent in the family circle, and a few hours' journey at
any time brings the School-boy or School-girl home, or the
father and mother up to the hills, on a visit equally pleasant
and beneficial to all parties. That most dismal drawback
to Anglo-Indian life, namely, the fact of children growing
up with little or no knowledge of their parents, and parents
passing into the vale of years ignorant of the character and
disposition of their children, is thus avoided.


EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EUROPEANs. 83
|
The most important educational establishment for boys
is St. Paul's School; it occupies a splendid site on the
gummit of the Jalapahar ridge, commanding the best views
in Darjeeling. The Head-master's bungalow is no other
than Mr. Hodgson's house, so frequently referred to by
Dr. Hooker in his “Himalayan Journals.” On this classic
ground the Observatory is now very appropriately situated,
the scientific observations being taken under the super-
vision of the head-master, Mr. R. Carter, B.A., Oxon. The
school estate extends to 63 acres, and is finely laid out.
The establishment was originally in Calcutta, whence it was
‘emoved to Darjeeling in 1864. In 1888 the old school.
I
Wºm, were renovated and enlarged. The handsome new
-
building, known as Bishop Johnson's Hall, was also Complet-
ed in that year, the name being given in recognition of the
fact that this addition to the premises was mainly due to
the liberality and energy of that prelate. It may be men-
tioned also that to Bishop Johnson the school owes its
|
i Chapel. By these additions the accommodation of the
school has been increased to 170. The number of pupils
| now in residence or attendance is over Ioo boarders and
| about 20 day-scholars. The teaching staff comprises four
masters, educated entirely in England, three of whom are
| graduates, two of Oxford, and one of Trinity College,
Dublin, while the fourth holds a First Division Government
|Certificate. The other teachers are all highly efficient and
experience; Every attention is given to developing the
hysique of the boys, cricket and other manly sports being
sedulously encouraged, The establishment contains a well-
supplied library and reading-room, where Indian and home
papers may be read, and chess or draughts played. St.
Paul's School, it may be added, has achieved considerable
success in the examinations of the Calcutta University, to


t
l
84 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
which it is affiliated up to the B. A. degree; and pupils
from it have passed into the Engineering Colleges at Sibpur
(Calcutta) and Rurki. The fees, it remains to be stated,
are Rs. 360 per annum, or Rs. 4o a month, for the school
year of nine months (March to November).
St. Joseph's College stands on the slope beneath St.
Andrew’s Church and the Town Hall. It is a Catholic
seminary, formerly conducted by the Capuchin Fathers,
but now by the Jesuits. Pupils of other persuasions, how-
ever, are also admitted. The College at present teaches up to
the Entrance Examination of the University, and is conduct-
ed on exactly the same principles as St. Xavier's College,
Calcutta. A library of useful and interesting books is pro.
vided for the pupils. The School year is ten months, the
vacation being from 20th December to 20th February. The
terms are Rs. 5oo per annum, payable Rs. 50 monthly for
the 10 months of residence. The number of pupils is about
50 boarders and 4o day-scholars. There are 11 jºy
Fathers on the teaching staff. A magnificent new building
is being erected at North Point, a splendid site, the free *
gift of the Bengal Government. The new St. Joseph's
College will have a façade of 3oo feet and two wings of
3oo feet each, and will be one of the handsomest educa.
tional institutions in the Presidency. The estimated cost
is over two lakhs of rupees.
Just below St. Joseph's College is the Loretto Convent,
an institution for the education of young ladies. It is a
Catholic School, but Protestant pupils are also admitted;
and allowed to attend their own place of worship, provided
their guardians appoint a person to accompany them. The
course of studies reaches the standard of the University
Entrance Examination, and in addition such accomplish
f
s


EDUCATIONAL ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EUROPEANS. 85
-
ments as music, drawing, painting, French, German, and
Italian are taught. There is a well-furnished library in the
Seminary, and pleasant grounds surround it. Boys up to
the age of 12 are also admitted. The number of pupils
averages about 120 boarders (70 girls and 50 boys) and
4o day-scholars (20 girls and 20 boys). The terms are
Rs. 40 per month, not including extra branches of study.
There are about 24 Nuns in residence, from the far-famed
Loretto Convent, Dublin. This is the oldest school in
Darjeeling, having been established so far back as 1846.
Conducted on similar educational lines to the Loretto
Convent School, but on Protestant principles, is the DAR-
JEELING GIRLs’ SCHOOL, finely situated just below the Mall,
between it and the East Birch Hill road. It is under the
management of a Board, the Bishop of Calcutta and the
Lieutenant Governor of Bengal being ex-officio trustees.
'The terms are Rs. 25 per month for boarders, and Rs. Io
to Rs. 16 for day-scholars. Beyond the ordinary course of
study pupils may take up the usual branches of scholastic
accomplishments. The pupils number over 60 boarders,
and about a dozen day-scholars, a few of the latter being
little boys under the age of twelve. The school was
founded in 1875.
There is one private boarding school for young ladies
and little boys in the station, Hampton Court, Pleasant
Valley (Mrs. Sells). This school has the reputation of
being the most select school in the station.
There is a scheme on foot for starting a Non-Conformist
School on unsectarian principles, which may come into
| . º
existence before long,


CHAPTER X.
MUNICIPAL AND DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION.
Municipal Area, Population, and Revenue—Drainage—Dú ,
posal of Zozem A^efuse—Water-supply – District Area—- |
Population—Religious Classification–7owns and Villages
—Civil and Criminal Justice—Police—Éducation for the
Avatives—The Zillah Schoo!— Bhutea-Zepcha Boarding.
Alstað/is/.../nezzá,
THE Municipal area of Darjeeling station covers an area
of 5% square miles, and contains an ordinary population o
about 7,018 according to the Census of 1881; but being th;
great summer resort in Bengal from the heat of the plains, tha,
population necessarily fluctuates considerably according to
the season of the year. It is estimated that in the summer
months the number of inhabitants is about 12,Coo. The in.
come of the Municipality for the year 1888-89 amounted to
Rs. 1, 19, 199, excluding an opening balance of Rs. 26,520,
The expenditure amounted to Rs. 1,39,616. The year thus
closed with a balance in hand of Rs. 6, Io 3. Among the
duties of the Municipality is to provide for the maintenance! .
of a conservancy, a police establishment, and the road
of the station. The body was constituted in 1850, and
its crest is the appropriate one of two crossed Žužeris,
or Nepaulese knives, so commonly seen in the district.
The Municipal business has been guided by a succession}
of able and energetic Commissioners, who have had theſ;


MUNICIPAL AND DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION. 87
advantage, in many instances, of valuable advice and sug-
gestions from some of the cleverest and most experienced
officers of Government, who have resided in the town for
a few months of every year. It is not to be wondered at,
therefore, that the sanitary arrangements of the station,
which are also assisted by the natural lie of the land, a
bracing climate, and a fairly large Municipal revenue, are
everything that could be desired. The Sanitary Commis-
Sioner of Bengal (Dr. Gregg) pays the town this handsome
compliment:-‘‘Darjeeling is, without exception, the clean-
est, most healthy, and best managed Municipality I have yet
inspected, and the Municipal Commissioners deserve great
praise for the efficient manner in which they have performed
the duties of their trust.”
The drainage of Darjeeling is very good, and is gradually
being further improved year by year. Nearly all the drains
are made of stone, and all those in the bazar and native
town, as well as the important drains in the European
quarter of the town, have been soled with Mirzapore stone
or half-round glazed drain tiles, which makes it an easy
matter to keep them clean. The arrangements in connec-
tion with public latrines, bathing places, markets, roads,
registration of births and deaths, vaccination, and dispen-
saries are all excellent. The town refuse consists mainly of
street-sweepings, stable manure, and cook-room garbage.
It is collected in carts and conveyed to a spot below the
compound of Beechwood Cottage in the native part of the
town, north-west of the market, and is thence carried down
to the wooden “shoot” by a wire tramway 1, ooo feet in
length, which is thrown obliquely across the Chandmara
Jhora. The shoot is situated beyond the left bank of the
Chandmara Jhora at the head of the stream, which is dry
except in the rains. This stream enters the Jhora a long


88 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
way down the hill near the junction of the stream with the
Kag Jhora, a tributary of the Little Rungeet river. The
shoot is 788 feet long, 534 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, and
has an inclination of over 45°. Mehters are employed
along the course of the shoot to keep its channel free from
obstruction, and at the bottom to remove the rubbish to
some distance and throw it further down the khud. To
prevent the accumulation of rubbish which has hitherto
not been put to any useful purpose, a large portion of it is
burnt during the dry season.
The town has an excellent water-supply, brought from
natural springs in the Senchal hill through a six-inch main
pipe to the eastern foot of the Jalapahar hill near Jore
Bungalow, and thence through a four-inch pipe to the
collecting reservoir near Rockville boardinghouse. From
this reservoir it is distributed to the town in pipes of vari-
ous sizes as circumstances require. In the rains the water-
supply is more than sufficient, but in the dry months slight
scarcity is sometimes experienced.
The Administrative District of Darjeeling extends over
an area of 1,234 square miles. Its population, according to
the Census of 1881, was I 55,179 persons, but this figure is
now unquestionably considerably below the mark. The
development of the tea industry and of the region generally
has led to steady immigration, so that more than 50 per
cent. of the population were born outside the limits of the
District. Of these incomers, taking the returns of the 1881
Census, the only figures available, 55,000 are hill-men
from beyond the British frontier, chiefly from Nepaul ;
nearly 5, ooo are from the neighbouring District of Jalpai-
guri, and more than Io, ooo are from Purniah. The re-
mainder are composed of representatives from almost every


MUNICIPAL AND DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION. 89
province of India. The general results of the Census of
1881 may be summarized as follows:—Number of towns
and villages, 943; number of houses, 29,904; population,
I55, 179, namely, males 88,948, and females, 66,231 ; pro-
portion of males in total population, 57.45 per cent.; aver-
age density, I 25’7 persons per square mile ; villages per
Square mile, 76; persons per village, 163; houses per
square mile, 24'2 ; persons per house, 5'3. Classified
according to religious belief, the population was returned as
follows:–Hindus, 126,717; Sikhs, 3; Mahomedans, 8,204 ;
Christians, 842 ; Buddhists, 18,775; Brahmos, 14; aboriginal
religions, 624. The great bulk of the population consists
of aboriginal or semi-aboriginal tribes, among whom the
Nepaulese are the most numerous. The Lepchas, who are
considered the primitive inhabitants of Sikkim, are includ-
ed among the Buddhists, but are few in number, and the
race is said to be declining. The Nepaulese, includiug the
Moormis, are divided among no fewer than 42 sub-tribes,
and are returned among the Hindus. The Rajbansi Kochs
number 30,801. The Bhuteas are not returned separately
in the Census, but are included among the Buddhists.
Of the Hindus proper, the two superior castes of Brahmin
(numbering, including Babhans, Io,739) and Rajput (6,352)
are the most numerously represented, very few of the other
recognized Hindu castes exceeding 1,000 in number. The
population of Darjeeling increased by more than one-half
between 1872 and 1881, and is still growing at rapid rate.
The Nepaulese are coming across the frontier in large
numbers, and are eagerly welcomed by the tea-planters as
their most valuable labourers ; while Bengalis from the
plains are gradually extending over the Terai. The Brahmo
Somaj is represented by a few Bengali Government clerks
at Darjeeling station. The population may be roughly


MUNICIPAL AND DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION. 91
to 994. The Census of 1881 returned 1,610 boys and 179
girls under instruction, and 5,686 males and 269 females
able to read and write, but not under instruction. The
principal educational institution is St. Paul’s School ; and
the other schools for European and Eurasian education are
St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Seminary, the Darjeeling Con-
vent School, and the Darjeeling Girls' School in Darjeeling
station, and a Government boarding-school at Kurseong.
A Government boarding school for aboriginal tribes has
also been established in Darjeeling, at Fernie Cottage,
just below the Native Sanitarium, and is attended by
Bhuteas and a few Lepchas from Sikkim. The number
of pupils averages about thirty, of whom rather more than
half are boarders, the others being day-scholars. All the
students are taught English and Tibetan, the purpose
of the school being to train up a body of explorers, survey-
ors, and interpreters. In Darjeeling station there is also a
zillah or district school, where English is taught, as well as
Hindi. Well over Ioo pupils attend, the majority being
Nepaulese, Bhuteas, and Mahomedans from down country,
comparatively few Lepcha children taking kindly to educa-
tion. The Scotch Mission has also established a number
of primary Schools, chiefly for children of Nepaulese coolies
working in the tea-gardens. *


CHAPTER XI.
DARJEELING AS A HEALTH RESORT.
A Paradise for Children—Maladies benefited by a Stay in
the Hills—Diseases in which the Change is Undesirable—
General Character of Climate—Cause of the Humidity—
Zhe Seasons—Mecessity for Warm Clothing—Barometric
Aressure—Highest and Zozvest Temperatures for each
Month—The Mean Temperature—Éguable Pistribution of
APiurnal Zemperature—Boiling Point—/nfluence of ZXi-
minished Atmospheric Pressure on the Human Body —
A’ainfall—Monthly /)istribution.
THE fame of Darjeeling as a health resort is now world-
wide. It has not merely become the sanitarium of Bengal,
but invalids from all parts of India repair to this Himalayan
hill station ; and “globe-trotters,” so called, visiting the dis-
trict as a show place, come to appreciate the bracing climate.
Dr. Hooker described Darjeeling as a paradise for children,
and his words hold good to this day; he wrote as follows:—
“I believe that children’s faces afford as good an index as
any to the healthfulness of a climate, and in no part of the
world is there a more active, rosy, and bright, young com-
munity, than at Darjeeling. It is incredible what a few
weeks of that mountain air will do for the India-born child-
ren of European parents; they are taken there sickly,
pallid or yellow, soft and flabby, to become transformed
into models of rude health and energy.” The benefit to


DARJEELING AS A HEALTH RESORT. 93
their elders is no less remarkable, and there are few dis-
eases common to Anglo-Indians which will not be cured or
alleviated by a stay in this most delightful of health resorts.
Those in a thoroughly debilitated condition must, of course,
observe discretion; for after a long residence in the plains,
the large organs of the body are generally debilitated, and
in the hill climate the heart, the liver, the lungs, the sto-
mach, and the kidneys all have their work increased,—the
heart by the extra exertion of the hills, the lungs by the
rarefied air making deeper and more frequent respirations
necessary, the stomach by the additional quantity of solids
taken, the liver by the change from heat to cold, and
the kidneys from the action of the skin being diminished.
In advanced stages of cardiac disease, it may be pointed
out, the elevation is probably too great, and the heart is
unable to bear the increased strain. However, no one
seriously affected in any one of the five vital organs just
named would be so foolish as to proceed to Darjeeling or
any other health resort without skilled medical advice. It
may just be mentioned that the climate, from its equable
character, is simply invaluable in the case of consumptive
persons. A trip to the hills is, of course, next to a sea
voyage, the great specific for fevers. All minor maladies,
caused by over-work, climatic influences, or indigestion,
disappear like magic in Darjeeling, the dry season being
especially adapted for nervous diseases, Asthma, as a rule,
is not benefited, the extremely rarefied air being against the
patient who is suffering from this painful complaint. The
rains are not suitable for those subject to bowel complaints
unless great care is exercised, cases of diarrhoea having
sometimes to return to the plains to get relief. Hill-
diarrhoea, a very imperfectly understood malady, is some-
times prevalent during the wet season, even those not


94 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
specially predisposed being affected. But it may be truly
said of Darjeeling that it suffers less from this cause than
any hill station in India. Children do not seem to be
prejudicially affected by the rains; they are bright, happy,
and rosy-cheeked all the year round. Epidemics among
them are extremely rare; measles, whooping-cough, and
chicken-pox have now and again made their appearance,
but in an extremely mild form. As we have pointed out in
a previous chapter, the Sanitation of Darjeeling may be
described as excellent in every respect.
There is no disguising the fact that the climate of Dar-
jeeling is a humid one. Dr. Hooker characterized it as the
dampest region in the whole Himalayas, and explains the
reason in words full of admiration for the mighty operations
of Nature. “The breezes are south-easterly,” he says,
“bringing that vapour from the Indian Ocean which is
rarefied and suspended aloft over the heated plains, but
condensed into a drizzle when it strikes the cooler flanks of
the hills, and heavy rain when it meets their still colder
summits. Upon what a gigantic scale does Nature here
operate Vapours, raised from an ocean whose nearest
shore is more than 4oo miles distant, are safely transported
without the loss of one drop of water, to support the rank
luxuriance of this far distant region. This and other offices
fulfilled, the waste waters are returned, by the Cosi and
Teesta, to the ocean, and again exhaled, imported, expend-
ed, re-collected, and returned.” Throughout the greater
párt of the year this south-easterly wind, laden with mois-
ture from the Bay of Bengal, prevails. It rises at Sunrise,
and its vapours are early condensed on the forests at
Senchal; billowy clouds rapidly succeed Small patches of
vapour, which rolling over to the north side of the moun-
tain are carried north-west, over a broad intervening valley


DARJEELING AS A HEALTH RESORT. 95
to Darjeeling. There they hank on the east side of the
spur; and this being partially clear of wood, the accumula-
tion is slow, and always first upon the clumps of trees.
Very generally by 9 A.M. the whole eastern sky, from the
top of the Darjeeling ridge, is enveloped in a dense fog,
while the western exposure enjoys sunshine for an hour or
two later. At 7 or 8 A.M. very small patches are seen to
collect on Tonglo, which gradually dilate and coalesce, but
do not shroud the mountain for some hours, generally not
before 11 A.M. or noon. Before that time, however, masses
of mist have been rolling over Darjeeling ridge to the west-
ward, and gradually filling up the valleys, so that by noon,
or 1 P.M., cvery object is in cloud. Towards sunset it falls
calm, when the mist rises, first from Senchal, or if a south-
east wind sets in, from Tonglo first.
The seasons in Darjeeling may be indicated as follows:
Cloudy, misty weather is most prevalent in February, May,
June, July, August, and September. The spring com-
mences about the third week in February, and lasts till the
end of May. The small rains begin in May, the proper rains
setting in about the middle of June and lasting till about
the 20th of October, with intervals of fine weather. Winter
may be said to commence after the rains are over, and to last
till the middle of February. The most enjoyable period of
the year is unquestionably the latter part of October, Nov-
ember, and December, precisely the period when the season
is “off” in Darjeeling, and Calcutta people have all flocked
down to the plains. The closing days of December are
frequently misty and damp, with some rain. The first part
of January is often bright and clear, but towards the end of
the month thick penetrating fogs occur, and it is very cold,
usually followed by a fall of snow, then by bright weather
again, July and August are the rainiest months of the


96 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
year. Frosts set in in November and December, and the
weather is very fine and bracing; and as the atmosphere is
at its clearest, the views to be obtained with absolute cer-
tainty are magnificent.
From the above jottings and the subjoined tables of
temperature, rainfall, &c., it will be obvious that warm
clothing is necessary at Darjeeling. A waterproof is also
an essential ; and as the Sun is powerful at mid-day, a sun
helmet or hat should not be omitted from the hill kit.
Strong boots for climbing are likewise necessary. Other
hints that may prove useful are that no bad effects need
result from a wetting if the clothes and socks are changed
immediately on returning home, and that it is wiser to bathe
in tepid water, cold bathing being in the vast majority of
Anglo-Indian cases too great a shock to the liver.
The following is a table of Barometric Pressure and
Temperature for the four years 1884–87, the records being
made at the St. Paul’s School Observatory. The letters
H. B. R. stand for Highest Barometric Reading,” H. T.
for “Highest Temperature,” and L. T. for Lowest Tem-
perature —
Month. 1884, 1885. 1886. 1887.
January ... H. B. R. ... 23.178 23:168 23:198 23:094
H. T. 54'5 52 “I 55 '2 45-6
L. T. 32 °o 31 ‘O 3 I'5 22 °2
February H. B. R. ... 23°162 23'o60 23'o62 23: 148
H. T. ..., 5 I ‘I 5 I ‘4 53°3 59-6
L. T ... • 25*4 26'5 27-9 22'2
March H. B. R. ... 23°162 23°196 23:174 23°104
- H. T. .
64' I 64'2 63'9 60°3
38"I 35°5 37'3 39'4
L.
T.


DARJEELING AS A HEALTH RESORT. 99
lightened, sometimes in a few hours, by nearly 1, ooo pounds.
At Darjeeling the load is reduced no less than 22,500
pounds, with no appreciable result on the frame, however
suddenly it be transported to that elevation. People take
pretty much the same amount of food, drink, sleep, exercise
and work, not only without inconvenience, but without
perceiving any greatly altered conditions. The visitor at
first finds himself short of breath after every slight ascent,
and sometimes experiences a painful feeling at the base of
the lungs; but these sensations pass away after a few days.
On ascending to 14, ooo feet, Owing to the greatly dimin-
ished supply of oxygen, exercise brings on vertigo and head-
ache. When still higher elevations are reached, lassitude
and tension across the forehead ensue, with retching, and
a sense of weight dragging down the stomach, probably
due to the dilatation of air contained in that organ. Such
are the all but invariable effects of high elevations, though
they vary with different individuals according to the sudden-
ness and steepness of the ascent, the amount and duration
of exertion, and the length of time previously passed at
great heights. Dr. Hooker, for example, who may be con-
sidered as having become gradually and thoroughly accli-
matised, found his organic functions wholly undisturbed at
an elevation of 17,ooo feet ; and when his body was at rest,
could detect no increased quickness of pulse or of res-
piration. It is a curious anomaly that the Tibetan, born
of lofty elvaetions and from infancy inured to cold and
diminished armospheric pressure, still suffers when he
crosses passes 18, ooo or 19,000 feet high, and apparently
neither more nor less than the man from the plains. It
can be shown that under ordinary circumstances the aver-
age man, who makes 18 respirations per minute, requires at
15,000 feet of elevation to make 8 additional inhalations in


CHAPTER XII.
EXCURSIONS.
Walks or Æides around the Station—/a/aft whar, Senchal,
and 7%ger Hil/—Zie of the Peaks—View of Mount.
Azerest—A’ungaroon Boſanic Garden—Ghoom Rock–
Zebong Spur—The Bhutea Bustee—A Buddhist Zemple
–7%e Cane Bridge over the Aºungeet—/unction of Great
A'ungeet and Teesta—The Iron Suspension Bridge—
Z2007, the Zeesta to the Plains—Tonglo–Scene from
the Summit—Sundućhu–Pha/u?—Synopsis of Złiner-
azy—/ourney to #2 /e/eſ Za A'ass—Zämerazies to the
Złżeń and AVépaul Frontiers—Short Áouſes to the Sikkima
Mozzasſeries.
THE visitor will find a number of pleasant walks in and
around Darjeeling station, Personal and health considera-
tions will decide when a pony or a dandy is necessary. The
Chaurasta is the fashionable promenade in the evening, and
the walk or canter may be prolonged round the Mall. Birch.
Hill Road, lower down the spur, is four miles round, with a
sharp incline at each end. Magnificent views of the snows
are to be obtained on a clear day, and valleys dotted over
by tea-plantations. Birch Hill Park, which is on the road.
just below The Shrubbery, is very pretty, with little nooks
and comfortable seats, and occasional glimpses of the snows.


EXCURSIONS. IO3
doned owing to its being so exposed and so far from
the station. At Senchal is a bungalow, where tiffin may
be partaken of. Once for all it may be pointed out
that permission to use the Government bungalows must
be obtained beforehand by application to the Deputy
Commissioner's Office, the Secretariat. No bungalow can
be occupied without a pass. The houses are furnished,
but in every case the excursionists must bring their own
provisions.
Mount Senchal is the nearest point to Darjeeling station
from which Mount Everest, the loftiest peak in the world, can
be seen. The mountain appears over the intervening ranges
just like the tip of the Smaller end of an egg. The view is
still more grand from Tiger Hill. From this height Ever-
est on a clear day is distinctly visible. It lies on a line
passing a little to the left of Phalut, and owing to its great
distance (IoT miles) appears less lofty than some of the
nearer peaks. From both Tiger Hill and Mount Senchal
a glorious view may be obtained of Kinchinjunga, and the
group of lofty mountains clustering around it— Kabru,
Kabur, Pandim, Janu, and Narsing. These appear to the
eye all close together, though such is by no means the case.
The Nepaul range is also in view, the prominent peaks from
south to north being Tonglo, Sundukphu, Phalut, and
Singli La. (For the heights and distances of all these
mountains wide Table, Chapter VI. Their locality may be
very easily determined by means of Map II, showing the
lie of the principal peaks.) The plains of India are also
commanded, with the courses of the Teesta, the Mahanada,
and the Balasan. Beyond Tiger Hill, it may be pointed
out, is Senchal, G. T. S. (Grand Trigonometrical Survey)
Station, some 5oo feet still higher, and not to be confound-
ed with Mount Senchal previously mentioned. From Ob-


EXCURSIONS. IO 5
hill behind the hotel a magnificent view can be obtained
On a clear day, the snowy range, the Teesta, the Balasan,
and the plains of India all being commanded. Kurseong
possesses a club, a cutcherry, a large school, a church, and
a sanitarium for Roman Catholic priests. The climate is
considerably warmer than that of Darjeeling, the elevation
being only 4,860 feet, and invalids often find it beneficial to
make a stay at the lower level preparatory to ascending to
the more rarefied and colder air above.
An easy journey is down to the wooded spur called
Lebong, where, the temperature being some ten degrees
warmer than at Darjeeling, peaches and other English
fruit trees flourish, but do not produce fruit. It is a com-
paratively easy walk down, but most persons find the aid of
a pony or of a dandy for the return journey necessary.
Round here are a number of tea-gardens, the plant thriving
admirably at this elevation, and one of these gardens
should, if possible, be visited. Below the spur is the village
of Ging, Surrounded by steeps cultivated with rice, maize,
and millet. In making this excursion, the descent is com-
menced from the Chaurasta. The Bhutea bustee (or village)
is soon reached, and the visitor, either going or coming,
should not fail to pay the Buddhist temple, or gompa, a
visit. The building is easily distinguished by the long
poles, with fluttering rags attached all around it. These
rags, often inscribed with prayers, are votive offerings to
evil spirits, and the Bhuteas tie them to wands near their
houses, to forest trees, and to any other convenient projec-
tion. The temple is a fairly good example of the Buddhist
place of worship. In the vestibule are a large number of
praying cylinders. One is fully six feet high, is worked by
a strap attached below, and rings a bell at every revolu-
tion. One of the attendant Lamas will readily start off


Ioô GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
with his prayers a the request of the visitor; the difficulty
is to get him to stop again, the dreary reiteration of “Om
Mani Padmi Om * being in no way improved by the peri-
odical clink of the bell. Inside the temple proper, on the
altar so to speak, are numerous idols, brass cups, lamps,
trumpets, bells, &c. On either side of the altar are re-
Cesses, Containing books and manuscripts carefully rolled
up in cloths. The side walls are covered with paintings,
but the interior is so dark that it is almost impossible to
make them out. In the body of the temple are huge tom-
toms and gongs. There is a room above the temple, to which
access may sometimes be obtained, where more manu-
Scripts and idols are kept, The Lamas will also, on request,
Produce a tom-tom made of a human skull, and a trumpet
fashioned from a human thigh-bone. A little above the
temple, and a prominent object from The Mall, is a chait,
or monument erected to the memory of some Lama. The
chait of Sikkim is borrowed from Tibet, and consists of
a Square pedestal, surmounted by a hemisphere, the convex
end downwards; on this is placed a cone, with a crescent
on the top. Such a monument is venerated by the people,
Who, when passing it, often repeat the invocation, “Om
Mani Padmi Om.”
A more ambitious trip is made by prolonging this last
excursion to the Lebong Spur through Badamtan to the
Cane bridge over the Great Rungeet River, this bridge being
on the road to Tumloong, capital of Independent Sikkim.
The bridge is situated just below the junction of the
Rungeet with the Rungmo, and is 6,ooo feet lower than
Darjeeling station. The road distance as the crow flies is
eleven miles, and the path an excellent one. At ten miles
distance from Darjeeling is the junction of the two streams.
The Rungeet makes its way through a dense forest; in the


EXCURSIONS. Io9
line separating the two being most distinctly drawn. The
Teesta, or main stream, is much the broader, more rapid,
and more deep. The rocks which skirt its bank are cover-
ed with a silt or mud deposit, owing to the vast number
of glaciers it drains. This fact also makes its waters
colder by several degrees than those of the Rungeet.
The latter stream, though it rises amongst the glaciers of
Kinchinjunga and its sister peaks, is chiefly supplied by
the rainfall of the outer ranges of Senchal and Singli La,
and hence its waters are clear except during the height of
the rains. -
The iron suspension bridge has replaced a cane structure
near the same spot. Its importance to trade is great, as
this road, open all the year round, is the main traffic route to
Tibet through the Jelep La Pass. The bridge is handsome
and substantial. Pashok Bungalow lies above the junction
of the two rivers, about three miles distant, the ascent
being a fairly stiff one. Here the excursionist may rest for
the night, his distance from Darjeeling station being fifteen
miles. The shortest route home is through the forest on
the Tungbu Ridge and under Senchal; the road is good
all the way, and the scenery striking. But we should
advise, if time be available, that the traveller should follow
the course of the Teesta right down to its exit from the
mountains by the Sivok Gorge, whence, Zid Siliguri and the
Mountain Railway, the return may be made to Darjeeling.
This magnificent ride will well repay the time and the
trouble expended. The thickly-wooded bank affords shelter
from the heat ; while the stream itself, now foaming in its
rocky bed, now forming a still deep pool, together with the
background of hill stretching beyond hill, makes up a
grand picture of natural scenery not to be surpassed all
the world over. There are several Government bungalows


I IC) GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
along the route, arrangements for occupying which must
be made beforehand, and the journey will occupy about
three days.
Another and still more ambitious trip than the last
named, is to Phalut, on the Singli La Range, which, as we
have previously explained, is an immense spur running
from Kinchinjunga right down to the plains of India. The
road is through the Goomphar Forest past Ghoom Rock,-
already described. At the 13th mile from Darjeeling is
Jore Pokri Bungalow, where breakfast should be partaken
of. Tonglo is 23 miles out by the path, height Io,070 feet,
with a bungalow for the first night's rest. The scene from
this peak has been finely described by Dr. Hooker, and the
passage will form the very best guide to the excursionist.
“From the summit of Tonglo,” he says, “I enjoyed the
view I had so long desired of the Snowy Himalaya ; Sikkim
being on the right, Nepaul on the left, and the plains of
India to the southward; and I procured a set of compass
bearings, of the greatest use in mapping the country. In
the early morning the transparency of the atmosphere
rendered this view one of astonishing grandeur. Kinchin-
ſunga bore nearly due north, a dazzling mass of snowy
peaks, intersected by blue glaciers, which gleamed in the
slanting rays of the rising Sun, like aquamarines set in
frosted silver. From this the sweep of snowed mountains
to the eastward was almost continuous as far as Chola,
following a curve of 150 miles, and enclosing the whole of
the northern part of Sikkim, which appeared a billowy
mass of forest-clad mountains. On the north-east horizon
rose Donkia (23,176 feet), and Chumulari (23,929). Though
both were much more distant than the snowy ranges, being
respectively eighty and ninety miles off, they raised their
gigantic heads above them, seeming what they really are,


EXCURSIONS. I I I
by far the loftiest peaks next to Kinchinjunga; and the
perspective of snow is so deceptive, that though from forty
to sixty miles beyond, they appeared as though in the same
line with the ridges they overtopped. Of these mountains,
Chumulari presents many attractions to the geographer,
from its long disputed position, its sacred character, and
the interest attached to it since Turner's mission to Tibet
in 1783. It was seen and recognized by Dr. Campbell, and
measured by Colonel Waugh, from Sinchul, and also from
Tonglo, and was a conspicuous object in my subsequent
journey to Tibet. Beyond Junnoo, one of the western
peaks of Kinchinjunga, there was no continuous snowy
chain ; the Himalaya seemed suddenly to decline into
black and rugged peaks, till in the far north-west it rose
again in a white mountain mass of stupendous elevation at
eighty miles distance, called, by my Nepal people, Tsungau.’
From the bearings I took of it from several positions, this
is probably on the west flank of the Arun valley and river,
which latter, in its course from Tibet to the plains of India,
receives the waters from the west flank of Kinchinjunga,
and from the east flank of the mountain in question. It is
perhaps one which has been seen and measured from the
Tirhoot district by some of Colonel Waugh's party, and
which has been reported as being upwards of 28, ooo feet in
elevation ; and it is the only mountain of the first class in
magnitude between Gosainthan (north-east of Katmandoo)
and Kinchinjunga. To the west, the black ridge of
Sakkiazung, bristling with silver-firs, cut off the view of
Nepal; but south-west, the Myong valley could be traced
to its junction with the Tambur about thirty miles off:
beyond which to the south-west low hills rose on the distant
horizon, seventy or eighty miles off; and of these the most
conspicuous were the Mahavarati, which skirt the Nepal


1 I6 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
The last excursion we shall refer to is that up to the
Jelep La Pass, a distance of about 86 miles. The road to
the suspension bridge over the Teesta has already been
described. Crossing the river, Kalimpong, an observation
station for trade in transit is reached. From thence five
easy marches bring the traveller to the foot of the Pass,
the road nearly all the way being passable for ponies. The
ascent to the summit (14,388 feet) is long and trying, but
when the climb is accomplished a magnificent view of Tibet
amply repays the journey. The town of Chumbi, in Tibet,
where the Rajah of Sikkim used to spend a portion of every
year, is about 20 miles distant. The Pass is at present
occupied by British troops.
The subjoined synopsis of routes particularizes and am-
plifies the above information.
ROUTES TO THE TIBET AND NEPAUL FRONTIERS.
Darjeeling to Badamtam * 2,500
7160 (ziá Rungeet Valley).
Or
Darjeeling to Pashak " 3,000
(vid Rangyaroon.)
Badamtam |
- to
. Or ICalimpong * 4,000
Pashak
| Rinkinpong 4,700
I&alimpong to Or
and back l Deolo 5,580
(Rissoom * 6,4IO.
Kalimpong to . or
Pedong+ 4,760
Rissoom to Dumsong 6,310.
and back
NoTE.—At places marked * there are Government Bungalows, particulars regard-
ng which can be obtained at the Deputy Commissioner's Office. No Bungalow can
be occupied without a pass.
f' Means there is a Hut at this place.
On return journeys down hill, two marches can often be done in one day.
& º figures give th; approximate height of the places against which they are
printed.


EXCURSIONS, I 17
Rissoom |
Or to Dulapchin 3,200
Pedong ſ
Dulapchin to Lingtam 4,630
Jeyluk # 9,060
Lingtam to | Or
Gnarik IO,OOO
Jeyluk to Gnatong £ I2, O3O
Gnatong to Kophu : I2,700 Lake Bidangcho.
Kophu to Jeylep Pass I4,390
and back
Kophu to Sharab I2,500 Lake Nemitzo.
(visiting Gnatui Pass eye route) I4, 4CO
Sharab to Byutan I2,OOO
(visiting Yakla Pass en route) I4,4OO
( Barfonchent II,000
Byutan to i to
Chomnaga: I2,OOO
Barfonchen
Or | to Chola Pass I4,550
Chomnaga
and back
Barfonchen
Or | to Phiungong I2, I 30
Chomnaga
Phiungong to Rangpo [. 4,500
Rangpo to Tumlong t 5,290 Residence of the
Mah a raja of
Sikkim.
Tumlong to Rangpo
Rangpo to Gantok + 5,800
Gantok to Dikhilingt 5,000. Copper Mines.
Dikhiling to Rissoom.
Rissoom to Kalimpong.
Kalimpong to Darjeelign.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTES TO ABOVE.
Darjeeling to Sharab (as above.)
Sharab to Gantok.
Gantok to Darjeeling (as above.)
t Means there are Huts at these places.
# Means there are Monasteries.
On return journeys down hill two marches can often be done in one day.
tº . figures give the approximate height of the places against which they are
printed.


I 18 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
Darjeeling to Tumlong (as above.
by Passes.
Tumlong to Silling.
Silling to Lingmo.
Lingmo to Yongong F.
Dulling + Passing the Do Mani or
Yongong to | Or “Rock of Prayer.”
Barpong. -
Dulling
Or | to Tassiding # 4,600
Barpong
Tassiding to Pemiongtchi + 6,920
Pemiongtchi viá Rub-
denchi, Geysing and
Changachelling; .
(7040) to Yangtheung.
Yangtheung to Samdongden.
Samdongden to Head of Kulhait
Stream,
Kulhait stream to Phulloot * 11,81o
zzá Singlila.
Phulloot to Sundukphu “ 11,930
Sundukphu to Tongloo “ I O,O74
Tongloo to Jor-pokhri “ 7,555
Jor-pokhri to Darjeeling. *
Silling
OY | to Tingchum.
Tumlong
Tingchum to Ringum.
Tumlong to Nampatam.
4. zyżó Mafila.
Nampatam to Ringun.
Ringun to Nangama.
Nangama to Choonthang f 5,070
Choonthang to Lachung f 8,790
Lachung to Yeumthang II,900. Hot Springs.
Yeumthang to Momay Samdong f 15,300
Note.—At places marked * there are Government Bungalows, particulars regard-
ing which can be obtained at the Deputy Commissioner's Office. No Bungalow can
be occupied without a pass.
f Means there are Huts at these places.
3. Means there are Monasteries.
On return journeys down hill two marches can often be done in one day.
• º figures give the approximate height of the places against which, they are
printed.


EXCURSIONS. II 9
Momay Samdong to Donkia Pass 18, 1 oo
and back.
Momay Samdong to Sibula Pass 17,580 ) Only practicable
Sibula Pass to Phalung Pass º: in very fine
Phalung Pass to Giagong I 5,490 weather.
Choonthang to Latong 6,950
Latong to Lamteng t 8,88o
Lamteng to Tallum Samdong: 1 1,500
Tallum Samdong to Siphu Rocks near Tangu : 12,800
Siphu to Sittong 14, OOG
Sittong to Giagong.
Giagong to Bhomtzo
Bhomtzo to Cholamoo Lakes
Cholamoo Lakes to Momay Samdong
(z)i& Donkia Pass.)
Darjeeling to Badamtam
Badamtam to Namtehi + 5 580
Namtchi to Tenai 4,770
Temi to Lingmao
(and on as above.)
Kalimpong to Lolegaon * 5 OSO &
Lolegaon to Songchongloo 6,260
and back.
Lolegaon £O Rissoom
(zyżó Labah) 6,600
Lolegaon to Pemling
Pemling to Nimja
(zyżó the Lakes.)
Nimja to Gurubatan 2, OOO
Rissoom to Pasheteng * 6,ooo
Ambiokh 2,92G
Pasheteng to | Or
Gurubatam *,
Gurubatam to the Dooars.
NotE. –At places marked " there are Government Bungalows, particulars regard-
ing which can be obtained at the Deputy Commissioner's Office. No Bungalow can
be occupied without a pass.
f Means there are Huts at these places.
: Means there are Monasteries. tº
On , eturn journeys down hill two marches can often be done in one day.
The figures give the approximate height of the, places against which they a
printed.


TRAVELLERS’ BUNGALOWS IN DARJEELING DISTRICT,
RURSEONG, PANKABARI AND SILIGURI.
Önder the Deputy Commissioner.
Distance from Height. Distance from
PLACE. Darjeeling. PLACE. Darjeeling. Height.
Miles. Feet. Miles. Feet.
I. Senchal 5 8,000 9. Dentam 64 4,500
2. Rangiroon 6% 5,7CO Io. Rimbik 43 6,200
3. Badamtam 7% 2,500 II. Merig 25 5,000
4. Jorpokri I2 7,400 12. Kalimpong 23 4,OOO
5. Tonglu 2I IO,O74 13. Rissisoom 34% 6,4Io
6. Sandakphu 35 II,929 14. Rangli 47% 2,590
7. Phalut 48 II,8II 15, Sadongchen 56 6,500
8. Cheabhanjan 54 Io,32O 16. Gnatong 65% I2,300
Under the Executive Engineer, P. W. D., Darjeeling.
17. Pedong 35 4,760 20. Riang 23% 625
18, Pashok 17% 3,300 21. Kalijhora 30% 55o
19. Teesta Bridge 18 viá Rungeet 710
Nos. 4 to 8 are on the Nepal Frontier Road, Nos. 14 to 17 on the
road to the Jelap Pass, and Nos. 19 to 21 are on the Teesta Valley
Road. From Phalut to Dentam the road is very rough. The Bunga-
low at Dentam is a converted Bhootia house. Rimbik is the apex of
a triangle of which the road from Phalut to Sandakphu is the base.
Merig is on the Nepal Frontier Road to the plains. Rissisoom is on the
Daling road to the plains.
2. A'afe of ſees.—There is an uniform rate of Rupee I per night
for each occupant.
For occupation by day only, the rate is 8 annas for each, person,
up to a maximum charge (except for the P. W. D. Bungalows) of Rs. 8
for a party.
In the case of Senchal, Rangiroon and Badamtam Bungalows, the
rate ſor occupation by day only is 4 annas for each person, up to a
maximum charge of Rs. 4 for a party.


I 200 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
3. The Bungalows are available only for persons provided with
passes from the office of the Deputy Commissioner or of the Executive
Engineer. To this rule, whether for officers on duty or tourists, there
is no exception. A separate pass must be obtained for each occupant
for each Bungalow whether going or returning.
4. Refund of Bungalow fees is not allowed. All passes must be
made over to the Chowkidar in charge.
5. The Bungalows (except Rimbik) are furnished with Beds,
Tables, Chairs, Lamps with wicks, Candlesticks, Crockery and Glass
and kitchen utensils. A party of five or six can be accommodated at
Bungalows, I–9 and I2 and I3. At the remaining Bungalows a party
of two only can be accommodated. Visitors must take their own Bed-
ding, Cutlery, Linen and provisions of every kind as well as candles or
oil for lighting. There is no resident Khansamah at any Bungalow.
Firewood is provided free on the Nepal Frontier Road Bungalows.
At Kalimpong four annas a maund must be paid before delivery of the
wood. Ordinary bazar supplies are obtainable at Jorpokri, Dentam,
Ralimpong, Teesta Bridge and Pedong.
6. A permanent sweeper is maintained only at Rungiroon. At
I&alimpong, Jorpokri, and Teesta Bridge, sweepers can be hired on
the spot. Elsewhere travellers must take sweepers with them and no
passes will be issued except on this condition.
7. Travellers wishing to return to Darjeeling from Chiabhanjan
through Sikkim can do so in 4 marches stopping at Dentam, Rinchin-
pong and Chakang.
September 1891.


AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, &c. I 23
progress. The following table will show the growth of the
industry:-

Acre ultiva-
Years. Nº ºf §.". º Outturn in lbs.
& g for tea.
I866 39 I6,392 433,715
I868 44 Io,067 851,549
1870 56 II,046 1,689, I86
1872 74 I 4,503 2,938,626
1874 II3 18,881 3,927,91 I
1875 I 2 I 22, 162 4,600,758
1880 I55 28,367 5, 160,314
1882 I 54 25, IO 5 6,596,456
1883 I65 44,482 8,080,293
1887 I69 54,235 9,944,356
I888 I 74 57, 181 IO,274, I 3 I
The following table shows the relative proportion of
mature plants during the past two years:—

Years Acres under Mature | Acres under Imma- Acres taken up
{- Plants. ture Plants. for cultivation.
1887-88 32,481 6,871 I4,883
1888-89 35,755 9, 17O I2,256
In 1887-88 the yield per acre under mature cultivation
showed an average of 306.1 lbs. In 1888-89 the figure was
lower, namely, 287.3 lbs. The cost of cultivation (which
includes rent) ranges from 26 shillings to Ioo shillings per
acre, and the cost of manufacture from 72 shillings to
78 shillings per acre. The plantations extend from the
Terai at 2co feet above sea-level up to 7,000 feet of eleva-
tion. A great extent of forest land has been cleared in
consequence of the extension of the industry. The plant


I 24 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
grown is almost exclusively the Chinese or the hybrid kind ;
the indigenous variety is very rarely cultivated. The number
of coolies employed on the various estates varies from 45 to
35o ; their wages are Rs. 5 to Rs 6-8 for men, Rs. 4-8 for
women, and Rs. 2 to Rs. 4 for children. Labour is plenti-
ful,-the light nature of the work attracting numerous immi-
grants from the surrounding hill states, especially Nepaul.
The plantations often suffer severely from red spider, green
fly, and mosquito blight. This last-named insect causes
most apprehension in the lower ranges of the hills. The
plague is said to be increasing, and to be more serious than
the red spider ; the bud being attacked and the plant not
allowed to mature. The red spider proves a terrible scourge
in some gardens, and baffles the energies of the most ener-
getic planter. A white grub turning into a brown beetle
attacks the roots, and wherever it makes its appearance is
exceedingly destructive. Machinery has been introduced
with marked success into all but the smallest gardens, and
Steam has taken the place of water-power on many estates.
The processes of manufacture have also been greatly im-
proved ; greater regard is paid to the withering and manipu-
lation of the leaf, and plucking is more carefully attended
to than formerly. The opening of the North Bengal State
Railway and of the Darjeeling and Himalayan Railway has
immensely increased the facilities for the transport of the
tea to Calcutta, whence it is shipped to London, the great
tea mart of the world.
The following account of the modus operandi of tea culti-
vation and manufacture in the Darjeeling District originally
appeared in The Field newspaper, and was reprinted in
the Bengal Statistical /čeporter. The writer states that
his information is founded on personal observation and
experience;—-


I 26 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
all necessary out-buildings attached, and a number of com-
fortable houses for the coolies. All that now remains to be
done is to keep the garden quite free from weeds, and to fill
up any vacancies that may occur from time to time from a
nursery that is made when the plantation is first commenced.
On new plantations the soil is so rich that manure is un-
necessary, and only attracts insects which are likely to
destroy the plant while young.
“When the tree arrives at maturity, it is with tea as with
all other cultivations. It has been proved in England, and
all countries where really high cultivation is followed out,
that the higher the system pursued, the greater the profit.
Deep hoeing is necessary from time to time between the
lines of trees as weeds appear, while around the trees them-
selves careful hand-weeding goes on. The third year all
the plants should be from 4 to 5 feet in height; they are
then pruned down to 20 inches, in order that the young
leaves may be plucked readily, and also to promote the
growth of new wood and tender shoots. Pruning has to be
done in the cold weather, say between November and Feb-
ruary, when the sap is down. The sooner after the sap
goes down the better, for the Sooner will the tree then
“flush,” or fling out new leaves in the spring. A month or
six weeks after pruning, the new shoots are on an average
from 6 to 8 inches high, and can now be picked ; and from
this period all through the rains, or for a space of eight
months, successive “flushes” take place at intervals, varying
from fifteen to twenty days, according to soil, degree of
cultivation, moisture, and system of pruning adopted. The
tea plant is said to “flush” when it throws out new shoots
and leaves. A light cultivated garden should in its fifth or
sixth year yield 500 lbs. of manufactured leaf per acre; and
the outturn should increase yearly till the plant is in its


AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, &c. I 27
twelfth year, when it has arrived at maturity, and should give
900 lbs. per acre. Although it reaches maturity in twelve
years, the plant has been known to yield just as freely at
thirty years of age.
“As soon as the “flush ’’ is in a sufficiently advanced
state, as many hands as can be spared (the preference being
given to women and children, on account of their gentler
touch) are sent, provided with large baskets, to pluck the
leaves. Tea can be made of the young tender leaves only ;
the younger and more succulent the leaf, the better tea it
makes. As a rule, it is found too expensive to pluck the
leaves separately, although the principle in plucking is to
leave the bud at the axis of the leaf down to which it is
plucked intact, and not destroy it by plucking the whole
stem. The leaves are named as follows, from the teas they
would make, supposing that there are named six leaves
on a shoot of the tree :—I, Flowery Pekoe ; 2, Orange
Pekoe ; 3, Pekoe ; 4, Souchong; 5, Congou ; or mixed to-
gether—1, 2, 3, Pekoe ; 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, Pekoe Souchong. If
No. 6 be taken into account, it would make a coarse kind
of Bohea.
‘In the evening all the leaf-pluckers are called to the
factory, where, after weighing the leaf in their respective
baskets, it is spread lightly on bamboo mats or trays, tier,
above tier, to allow the leaf to wither. There are several tests
to show when the leaf is withered Fresh leaf gathered in the
hand, and held near the ear, crackles, but no sound should be
heard from withered leaf. The stalk of withered leaf will
bend double without breaking; but fresh leaf stalks, if bent
very little, will break. In dry weather, if there is any sun
when it is brought in, the leaf is generally sufficiently
withered by the morning; but should it not be ready, it is


I 28 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
put out in the sun, or, if there is no sun, artificial withering
is resorted to,
“When sufficiently withered to roll without breaking, a
quantity of about 30lbs. is given to each man, who rolls it
on a strong wooden table (unless this is done by a steam
rolling machine lately invented) covered with a fine bamboo
mat, the slightly rough surface of which enables the leaf to
roll better. As much leaf as can be conveniently held in
both hands is taken by the men from the heap, and this
they roll with a backward and forward motion till the leaf
gets in a soft state, and when in the act of rolling it gives
out juice freely. When rolled sufficiently, it is formed into
tight-compressed balls.
‘The balls accumulated are allowed to stand until fer-
mented. This is the most important point in the whole
manufacture. The fermentation should be stopped in the
ball just at the right time, which practice alone enables one
to do. As a rule, the inside of the ball should be of a
rusty red colour. The fermentation is stopped by breaking
the ball and spreading the leaf out on mats, and without
delay putting it out in the sun. When it has become
blackish in colour, it is again collected and re-spread, so
that the whole of it should be affected by the sun. With
bright Sunshine, an hour, or even less, suns it sufficiently.
It is then placed on trays above charcoal fires, where it is
shaken up and re-spread several times until it is quite dry
and crisp. Any piece then taken between the fingers
should break with the slightest attempt to bend it. The
manufacture is now completed : the roll has become tea.
The tea has now to be sifted, and the various qualities
separated. For this purpose, sieves of different meshes are
used, the highest quality tea falling through the finer sieves,


AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, ETC. I 29
and the coarser tea through the larger sieves. All the red,
hard, unrolled leaf is now ſanned and picked out of the
tea, and mixed with the Bohea. All the black teas, with the
exception of Flowery Pekoe, are made in this manner. The
manufacture of the latter is simple enough. When the
leaves from each shoot are collected, they are exposed to
the Sun, spread out on mats, until they have well shrivelled.
They are then placed over small and slow charcoal fires,
and so roasted very slowly. If the above is well done, the
Pekoe tips come out a whitish orange colour. The whiter
they are the better. Flowery Pekoe is quite a fancy tea,
and very seldom made.
“To make green tea, the leaf must be brought in twice in
the day. What comes in at one o’clock is partly made the
same day. The evening leaf is left till the following morn-
ing, laying it so thick that it will not wither. The leaf is
then placed in hot iron pans over a small furnace, at a
temperature of, say, 160°, and stirred with sticks for about
seven minutes, until it becomes moist and sticky. It is then
too hot to hold long in the hand. It is next rolled for two
or three minutes on a table until it gets a little twisted, after
which it is laid out on mats in the Sun for about three
hours, and rolled twice during that time, always in the sun.
It is then again placed in the pans at the same heat as
before, and worked with sticks until it becomes too hot to
hold. It is then stuffed as tight as can be into canvas
bags; the mouth of the bag is tied up, and the bag beaten
with a flat, heavy stick to consolidate the mass, and so it is
left for the night. Next morning it is taken out of the
bags and worked with sticks as before in the pans for nine
hours without intermission. During this last process the
green colour is produced, and the tea is made. The follow-
ing are the kinds into which green tea is sorted:—I, Ends;
D. G. 9


I 32 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING.
hybrid and ledgeriana kinds planted instead. The crop
of the year 1888-89 was the largest ever harvested, amount-
ing to 373, Ioo lbs. of dry bark, of which 207,460 lbs.
were red, 128,770 ledgeriana, and 36,870 hybrid. The
out turn of medicine at the factory, which is regulated
by the demand, was 6, 178 lbs. of ordinary cinchona febri-
fuge, 284 lbs. of crystalline febrifuge, and 1,283 lbs, of
sulphate of quinine. This amount was issued to the Medi-
cal Depôts at Calcutta, Bombay, and Madras; to the
Inspector-General of Civil Hospitals, Bengal ; and to the
Inspector-General of Jails, Bengal; while about one-third
was sold to Government officers and to the general public.
The balance sheet showed a net profit on the year's working
of Rs. 27,844, a most satisfactory result considering the
unprecedentedly low price of quinine products. The ex-
periments which have been made to introduce the species
of cinchona, which yield the hard Carthagena and Cuprea
barks, have hitherto been unsuccessful; but three new varie-
ties procured from South America in 1883 have been
cultivated with success. The quality of the bark yielded
by these plants is not generally inferior to that of the
calisaya ledgeriana, and the introduction of these varieties
is considered to be one of the most important and interest-
ing experiments which have ever been made at the planta-
tion. At the same time the fact has to be recorded that,
within the last two years, a new chemical process for the
manufacture of sulphate of quinine has been discovered.
By this process quinine can be obtained in a form undistin-
guishable, either chemically or physically, from the best
brands of European manufacture. The future of the cin-
Chona plantations is therefore involved in some doubt,
though it is as yet too soon to speak with certainty on the
economic value of this chemical discovery. On the other


I 36 GUIDE BOOK TO DARJEELING,
These two facts combine to make the Jelep La Pass far
and away the most important trade route through the
Himalayas from India into Central Asia. During the last
two years the traffic has been carried on by way of Nepaul,
necessarily in diminished volume. The chief items of import
from Tibet are yak tails (used as chowries, or “fly-flappers,”
all over the east), hides, raw wool, horses, ponies, and
mules, musk, and brick tea. Our exports to the country,
among other articles, comprise cotton piece-goods (Euro-
pean), tobacco, indigo, horses, ponies, and mules, jewel-
lery, manufactured wool (European), brass and copper,
cotton twist and yarn (European), iron, manufactured silk
(Indian), and Chinese and Japanese ware.
From Sikkim we receive vegetables, brass and copper,
gram and pulse, spices other than betel-nuts, silver, hides
of cattle, ghee, raw cotton, horses, ponies, and mules,
cotton piece-goods (Indian), timber, yak tails, and cattle.
In return we send similar commodities to those despatched
to Tibet, besides also salt and husked rice.
As regards BHUTAN, the bulk of the trade with this state
does not pass through Darjeeling, being conducted by way
of Jalpaiguri, the railway station on the plains for the
Dooars. Still, of the total trade between Bhutan and Ben-
gal, a certain amount does filter through the district, ponies
and madder or manjić especially. Other imports from
Bhutan are yak-tails, Caoutchouc, and musk. Our chief
exports to the country are tobacco, betel-nuts, husked rice,
cotton piece-goods (European), Sugar, woollen stuffs (Euro-
pean), silk stuffs (Indian), brass and copper, and unhusked
rice. We have three stations, namely, Runjit, Rhenok,
and Kalimpong, for the registration of our trade with Tibet,
Sikkim, and Bhutan.


CHAPTER XIV.
THE LAMAS.
Mixture of Religions—Predominance of Buddhism—Occupa-
tions of the Zamas–Interior of the Temples—Praying-
Wheels—Articles on the A/far—A Pries# aſ his ZOezo-
tions-—Affability to Strangers.
THE population of Darjeeling, as we have seen, is a
conglomerate of many races. It follows that the prevailing
religions are also a good deal mixed. We find Buddhism
mingled with worship of the Hindu goddess Kali, and with
demonolatry pure and simple. The Bhuteas, of all the
hill-tribes, come nearest to being pure Buddhists. The
Nepaulese are most closely allied to the Hindoos of the
plains. Still, the spirit of Buddhism prevails over the
whole district, and tinges to greater or less degree every
creed. Lamas from Tibet, moreover, are everywhere pre-
sent, and we have seen that the Lepchas, whose religion,
Such as it is, is mostly demon-worship undisguised, have
a deep reverence for these Buddhist priests. Monasteries
are scattered all over Independent Sikkim, and their num-
ber in Tibet itself is simply incalculable. They are called
goompas, and are perched on hill-tops, the building being
usually a wooden barn-like structure erected at one end of
a stone platform. A very fair specimen is the temple at
the Bhutea bustee close to Darjeeling, fully described in a
previous chapter Many of these monasteries contain


THE LAMAS, I39
the temple are numerous poles, with rags on which texts:
are inscribed, fluttering in the breeze. Similar poles adorn,
the villages. The custom is, when one of the inhabit-
ants dies, if his relations can afford to pay for them,'
to set up two additional poles or flags in honour of his
memory. It is also common to hang votive rags to
trees, &c., to conciliate evil spirits; a goodly display of
these is commonly seen on the top of Observatory Hill,
Darjeeling.
The matutinal devotions of a Buddhist priest have been
thus described by Dr. Hooker:—“We were awakened at
daylight by the discordant Orisons of the Lama ; these com-
menced by the boys beating the great tambourine, then
blowing the conch-shells, and finally the trumpets and
thigh bones. Shortly afterwards the Lama entered, clad in
scarlet, shorn and barefooted, wearing a small red mitre,
a loose gown girt round the middle, and an under-garment
of questionable colours, possibly once purple. He walked
along, slowly muttering his prayers, to the end of the apart-
ment, whence he took a brass bell and dorge, and sitting
down cross-legged, commenced matins, counting his beads,
ringing the bell, and uttering most dismal prayers. After
various disposals of the cups, a larger bell was violently
rung for some minutes, himself snapping his fingers and
uttering most unearthly sounds. Finally, incense was
brought of charcoal with juniper sprigs; it was swung
about, and concluded the morning service; to our great
relief, for the noises were quite intolerable.” It may just
be added that the Lamas have no prejudices against ad-
mitting strangers into their places of worship, being rather
pleased than otherwise to show the sights, and quite ready
on invitation to say their prayers in presence of the visitor,
turning the praying cylinders—not always with a very grave


Animals on the Hills
Bhuteas & ſº
Birds ©
Bazar, The . .
Boarding Houses
Pirch Hill Park
Bhutea Bustee ſº
Buddhist Temple
Campbell, Dr. .
Cinchona, Cultivation of
Chourasta, The
Cemetery, The
Club, The tº
Cane Bridge over the Runjeet
DARJEELING, HISTORY OF
Cession of
District enlarged
Journey to
Description of route to
Languages of
Botanical features of
Natural history of .
Geology of .
Station of Q
As a Health resort .
Excursions from
Agriculture, manufactures and t
Domestic animals
Darjeeling Girls' School
&
* 8
rades
Page.
26–28
92—IOO
IoI–II 3
I 21–136
48
85


I 42 INDEX,
Page,
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway • * * * © II—I 5
Drainage & * & * * º & g º tº 87
Disposal of Town Refuse e e 0. tº g e g 87
Eden Sanitarium . º o & e e e º e 74
Education of Natives . º * & e e º º 90
Everest, Mount & © e e ſº o g o 55
Forest Scenery & º & • tº & & • 39, 40
Flowers, English . tº e o te º {} tº e 4 I
Fish 0. * º e e * o & º e 47
Ghoom Rock . . . . • º . ~ * * 0. º . IO4.
Himalayan Hill Tribes . . . • . . . . . . . . 7, 16–-32
Hill Forests. – o y º 9 º' a , a & 9 & º 34
Hooker, T)r., . ſº 0. 0 o a () & J C w tº © 5
Hotels . w 0 - 8 v 8 & e a 6 . e. tº © e 72
Insects ... • , e. & J & , e. & J C & & 45, 46
Jalpaiguri . . . . . . . . . . & t o e II
Jute Cultivation . . . © . . . . . e. e º º I I
Jail, The . . o ^ - a & J D º g tº e 67
Jalapahar, Military Depôt * ... a & o ſº º © 71
Justice, Civil and Criminal . . * e e º © e 90
Jelep La Pass ... e * - 0 º e e º & . I I6
Jungle Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . e • I 33
Rinchinjunga. - B , º wº e º g º o ſº 55
Kurseong o © * * * u, º & 0. º tº 0 º I5
Rochs, The . * º ſº ſº p ë i ſº o 19
Lepchas tº º O º º e e e e I9—25
Limboes o º 0. º tº * - s & s e 26
Leeches. º * , a & * u, s º e e o 45
Lloyd’s Botanic Gardens. V º . . 65
Lowis Jubilee Sanitarium e º ſº & º o e 79
Loretto Convent . • v a * : * , e e tº e 84
Lebong Spur . o • v e ſº e 9 x a e . . IO5
Local Manufactures • J e tº º º º o • I 34
Local Trade . e • , e. o 0. t e º • I 3
Lamas, The . º e ſº e * , a º . I37–I4O
Mechis of the Terai o e o ſº º e º I6, 17
Moths and Butterflies . . . . . . . . . * º e 46
Mineral Products . . . . . . . . e º * .* w 50


Moraines
Mountains—
o e
Loftiest Peaks
Table of Heights and Distances
y e o
A
e
*
º
o
Magnificence of the Spectacle ,
Gorgeous Sunset Effects
Mall, The
Municipal Area
5 5.
Nepaulese
Revenue
Native Schools
Observatory Hill
Old Rungaroon Garden .
Population of Darjeeling .
Private Boarding Schools
Police
Phalut
Prayer-Wheels
Railway, Opening of
35 Mountain .
5 5. Distance Traversed
Region of Perpetual Snow
Rungaroon Botanic Garden
Sanitarium, Establishment of
Senchal, Mount
Sikkim, Quarrel with
Siliguri
Scenery, Magnificen
Shrubbery,
The
ce of
Station Amusement Club
Schools
St. Andrew’s Church
Secretariat
Scotch Mission, The
St, Paul’s School
St. Joseph’s College
Sundukphu
Tibetans
º
f 43
Page,
5 I
55–60
55–57
58, 59





2 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
RHYMING LEGENDS OF IND.—By H. KIRKwooD GRACEY, B.A., C.S.
Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3-8.
CoNTENTS:—The City of Gore—A Mother's Wengeance—The Blue Cow—
Famine—A Terrible Tiger—The Legend of Somnath. --Treasure Trove—The
Idol of Kalinga—Mind vs. Matter— Vultur in partibus.
“A collection of bright little poems. Keen satirical touches are introduced
here and there throughout the volume....The clever little book.”—Morning
Post. -
“A charming little book. Of the poems here collected the majority will
bear reading several times over. The author writes in lively mirth-provoking
fashion.”—Eacpress.
“The whole volume is, indeed, well worth reading ; it is an enjoyable little
publication.”—Madras Mail.
“The writer of the present volume handles his theme with remarkable
ability.”—Booskeller.
ELSIE ELLERTON.—A NovKTETTE of ANGLO-INDIAN LIFE. By MAY
EDWooD, author of “Stray Straws,” “Autobiography of a Spin,” etc.
Crown 8vo. Re. 1-8.
“This, novel is amusing, pure in tone, and distinguished by much local
colouring.”—Athenaeum.
“Rudyard Kipling has taken the most becoming phase of Anglo-Indian
life and in the main made the worst of it. Miss Edwood takes the pleasantest
and makes the most of it.”—Rome News.
INDIAN LYRICS.—BY W. TREGo WEBB, M.A., Professor of English
Literature, Presidency College. Feap. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 4.
“Vivacious and clever . . . He presents the various sorts and conditions
of humanity that comprise the round of life in Bengal in a series of vivid
vignettes . . He writes with scholarly directness and finish.”—Saturday Review.
“A volume of poems of more than ordinary interest and undoubted ability.”
---Oaxford and Cambridge Undergraduate's Journal.
LIGHT AND SHADE.-BY HERBERT SHERRING. A. Collection of Tales
and Poems. Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3.
“Piquant and humorous—decidedly original—not unworthy of Sterne.”—
Spectator (London).
STRAY STRAWS.—BEING A COLLECTION OF SEETCHES AND STORIES.
By MIGNON. Crown 8vo. Re. 1-8.
“It is a capital book to take up when one has a few spare moments on
hand.”—Englishman.
“A very interesting collection of short stories and sketches.”—Morning
Post (Allahabad).
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Poetry, Fiction, etc. - 5
AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A SPIN.—BY MAY EDWOOD, author of “Elsie
- Ellerton,” “Stray Straws,” &c. Re. 1-8. - - - r
“Undeniably a clever and not unaffecting study of the natural history of
flirtation.”—Saturday Review.
“In Anglo-Indian society slang a “Spin 'appears to be a young lady who
visits India in order to obtain matrimony by means of a vivacious, not to
say bold, demeanour. The author of this book describes such a person,
and her heartless conduct in the pursuit of her object, which, however, does
not appear to have been successful.”—Times Weekly.
LALU, THE CHILD-WIDOW.—A Poem in seven parts: Proem—The
Zemindar—The Farm—The Betrothal—The Lovers—Widowhood—The
Pyre–Rest. By Lt.-Col. W. L. GR1c1 NSTiticitT. Cr. 8vo. Rs. 2.
BEHIND THE BUNGALOW.-BY EHA, author of “THE TRIBES ON
MY FRONTIER.” With Illustrations by F. C. M.Act A R. Fourth Edition.
Imp. 16mo. Its. 5.
“Of this book it may conscientiously be said that it does not contain a dull
page, while it contains very many which sparkle with a bright and fascinating
humour, refined by the unmistakable evidences of culture.”—Rome News,
“The author of ‘Behind the Bungalow ’ has an excellent sense of humour
combined with a kindliness of heart which makes his little book delightful
reading.”—Saturday Review. to
“There is plenty of fun in ‘Behind the Bungalow.’”— World. -
“A series of sketches of Indian servants, the humour and acute observation
of which will appeal to every Anglo-Indian.”—Englishman.
“Drawn with delightful humour and keen observation.”—Athenaeum.
“Every variety of native character, the individual as well as the nation,
caste, trade, or class, is cleverly pourtrayed in these diverting sketches.”—
Jllustrated London News.
INDIAN ENGLISH AND INDIAN CHARACTER.—BY ELLIS UNDER-
wood. Feap. 8vo. As. 12.
LAYS OF IND.—BY ALIPH CHEEM. Comic, Satirical, and Descriptive
Poems illustrative of Anglo-Indian Life. . Eighth Edition. Enlarged.
With 70 Illustrations. Cloth, elegant gilt edges. Rs. 7-8.
“There is no mistaking the humour, and at times, indeed, the fun is both
‘fast and furious.' One can readily imagine the merriment created round the
camp fire by the recitation of ‘The Two Thumpers,” which is irresistibly droll.”
—Liverpool Mercury.
“The verses are characterised by high animal spirits, great cleverness, and
most excellent fooling.”—World.
THE CAPTAIN'S DAUGHTER.—A NOVEL. By A. C. POOSHEIN.
Literally translated from the Russian by STUART H. GoDFRuty, Captain,
Bo. S. C. Crown 8vo. Rs. 2. -
“Possesses the charm of giving vividly, in about an hour's reading, a con-
ception of Russian life and manners which many persons desire to possess.”—
Englishman. -
* The story will interest keenly any English reader.”—Overland Mail.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


History, Customs, Travels, etc. 9
CHIN-LUSHAI LAND.—INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE WARIOUS
Expeditions into the Chin Lushai Hills and the Final Annexation of the
Country. By Surgn.-Lieut.-Colonel A. S. REID, M.B., Indian Medical
Service. With three Maps and eight Phototint Illustrations. Cloth,
gilt. Rs. 12.
THE IMAGE OF WAR, OR SERVICE IN THE CHIN HILLS.—A COL-
LECTION of 34 Full-page Collotypes of Instantaneous Photographs and
160 interspersed in the reading. By Surgeon-Captain A. G. NEWLAND.
With Introductory Notes, by J. D. MACNABB, Esq., B.C.S. 4to, cloth,
gilt elegant. Rs. 32.
THE RACES OF AFGHANISTAN.—BEING A BRIEF ACCOUNT of the
principal Nations inhabiting that country. By Surg.-Maj. H. W. BKLLEW,
C.S.I., late on Special Political Duty at Kabul. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3–8.
KURRACHEE: ITS PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE.-BY ALEXANDER F.
BAILLI it, F.R.G.S., author of “A Paraguayan Treasure,” &c. With
Maps, Plans, and Photographs, showing the most recent improvements.
Super-royal 8vo, cloth. Rs. 15.
THE TRIAL OF MAHARAJA NANDA. KUMA.R.—A NARRATIVE OF A
JUDICIAL MU is Dicit. By H. Blºvič RIDG ic, B.C.s. Demy 8vo. Rs. 5.
“Mr. Beveridge has given a great amount of thought, labour, and research
to the marshalling of his facts, and he has done his utmost to put the exceed-
ingly complicated and contradicting evidence in a clear and intelligible form.”
—Home News.
THE EMPEROR AKBAR.—A CONTRIBUTION TOWARDS THE HISTORY
OF INDIA in the 16th Century. By FitEDER1CR AUGUSTUs, Count of Noer,
Translated from the Germaan by ANNETTE S. Bºvkº I.D.G.E. 2 vols. 8vo.
cloth, gilt. Rs. 5.
ECHOES FROM OLD CALCUTTA.—BEING CHIEFLY REM.INISCENCES
of the days of Warren Hastings, Francis, and Impey. By H. E. Bus-
Tititi). Second Edition, Enlarged and Illustrated. Post 8vo. Rs. 6.
“The book will be read by all interested in India.”—Army & Navy Magazine.
“Dr. Busteed's valuable and entertaining 'Echoes from Old Calcutta' has
arrived at a second edition, revised, enlarged and illustrated with portraits
and other plates rare or quaint. It is a pleasure to reiterate the warm com-
mendation of this instructive and lively volume which its appearance called
forth some years since.”—Saturday Review.
“A series of illustrations which are highly entertaining and instructive of
the life and manners of Anglo-Indian society a hundred years ago . . . The
book from first to last has not a dull page in it, and it is a work of the kind o
which the value will increase with years.”—Englishman. -
THACKER, SPINK AND Co., CALCUTTA.
*


10 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
CAPT. HAYES’ WORKS ON HORSES.
ON HORSE BREAKING...—BY CAPTAIN M. H. HAYES. Numerous Illus-
trations by J. H. Oswald-BRowN. Square. Rs. 16.
(1) Theory of Horse Breaking. (2) Principles of Mounting. (3) Horse
Control. (4) Rendering Docile. (5) Giving Good Mouths. (6) Teaching
to Jump. . (7) Mount for the First Time. ...(8) Breaking for Ladies' Riding.
(9). Breaking to Harness. (10) Faults of Mouth. (11) Nervousness and Im-
patience. (12) Jibbing. (3) Jumping. Faults. (14) Faults in Harness.
(15) Aggressiveness. (16) Riding and Driving Newly-Broken Horse. (17)
Stable Vices, .
“One great merit of the book is its simplicity.”—Indian Daily News.
“A work which is entitled to high praise at being far and away the best
reasoned-out one on breaking under a new system we have seen.”—Field.
“Clearly written.”—Saturday Review.
“The best and most instructive book of its class that has appeared for many
years.”—Times of India. -
RIDING : ON THE FLAT AND ACROSS COUNTRY. —A GUIDE TO
PRACTICAL BIORSEMANs HIP. By Captain M. H. HAYEs. With 70 Illus-
trations by STURGESs and J. H. Oswald-Brown. Third Edition, Revised
and Enlarged. Rs. 7-8.
The whole text has been so revised or re-written as to make the work the
most perfect in existence, essential to all who wish to attain the art of
riding correctly.
“One of the most valuable additions to modern literature on the subject.”—
Civil and Military Gazette.
“A very instructive and readable book.”—Sport.
“This useful and eminently practical book.”—Freeman's Journal.
"THE POINTS OF THE HORSE. —A FAMILIAR TREATISE ON EQUINE
CoNForMATION. Describing the points in which the perfection of each
class of horses consists. By Captain M. H. HAYIts. Illustrated by 74
Reproductions of Photographs and 225 Line Drawings. Sm, 4to, Rs. 32.
INDIAN RACING REMINISCENCES.—BEING ENTERTAINING NARRA-
Trvits, and Anecdotes of Men, Horses, and Sport. By Captain M. H.
HAY ics. Illustrated with 42 Portraits and Engravings. Imp. 16mo. Rs. 6.
“Captain Hayes has done wisely in publishing these lively sketches of life
in India. The book is full of racy anecdote.”— Bell's Life.
“All sportsmen who can appreciate a book on racing, written in a chatty
style and full of anecdote, will like Captain Hayes’ latest work.”— Field.
“Many a racing anecdote and many a curious character our readers will
find in the book, which is very well got up, and embellished with many
portraits.”—Bailey's Magazine.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA,


Capt. Hayes' Works on Horses. 11
VETERINARY NOTES FOR HORSE-OWNERS.—A PopULAR GUIDE
to Horse Medicine and Surgery. By Captain M. H. HAYEs. Fourth Edi-
tion, Enlarged and Revised to the latest Science of the Day. With many
New Illustrations by J. H. Oswald-BROWN. Crown 8vo, buckram. Rs. 9.
The chief new matter in this Edition is—Articles on Contracted Heels,
Donkey’s Foot Disease, Forging or Clicking, Rheumatic Joint Disease,
Abscess, Dislocation of the Shoulder Joint, Inflammation of the Mouth and
Tongue, Flatulent Distention of the Stomach, Twist of the Intestines, Relapsing
Fever, Cape Horse Sickness, Horse Syphilis, Rabies, Megrims, Staggers,
Epilepsy, Sunstroke, Poisoning, Castration by the Ecraseur, and Mechanism
of the Foot (in Chapter or Shoeing).
“Of the many popular veterinary books which have come under our notice,
this is certainly one of the most scientific and reliable. . . . . The de-
scription of symptoms and the directions for the application of remedies are
given in perfectly plain terms, which the tyro will find no difficulty in com-
prehending.”—Field. -
“Simplicity is one of the most countmendable features in the book.”—Illus-
trated Sporting and Dramatic News.
“Captain Hayes, in the new edition of ‘Veterinary Notes,' has added con-
siderably to its value, and rendered the book more useful to those non-profes-
sional people who may be inclined or compelled to treat their own horses
when sick or injured.”— Veterinary Journal.
“We do not think that horse-owners in general are likely to find a more
reliable and useful book for guidance in an emergency.”—Field.
TRAINING AND HORSE MANAGEMENT IN INDIA.—BY CAPTAIN M.
H. HAYIts, author of “Veterinary Notes for Horse-Owners,” “Riding,” &c.
Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, Rs. 6.
“No better guide could be placed in the hands of either amateur horseman
or veterinary surgeon.”— Peterinary Journal.
“A useful guide in regard to horses any where. . . . Concise, practical,
and portable.”—Saturday Review. -
SOUNDNESS AND AGE OF HORSES.—A VETERINARY AND LEGAL
GUID it to the Examination of Horses for Soundness. By Captain M. H.
HAYES, M.R.C.V.s. With 100 lllustrations. Crown 8vo. Rs. 6.
“Captain Hayes is entitled to much credit for the explicit and sensible
manner in which he has discussed the many questions—some of them ex-
tremely vexed ones—which pertain to soundness and unsoundness in horses.”
— Veterinary Journal. -
“All who have horses to buy, sell, or keep will find plenty to interest them
in this manual, which is full of illustrations, and still fuller of hints and
wrinkles.”—Referee.
“Captain Hayes' work is evidently the result of much careful research, and
the horseman, as well as the veterinarian, will find in it much that is interest-
ing and instructive.”—Field. - -
THACKER, SPINK AND Co., CALOUTTA.


Sport and Veterinary Works. 3. 13
SEONEE : OR, CAMP LIFE ON THE SATPURA RANGE.-A Tale of
Indian Adventure. By R. A. STIt RNDALI, author of “Mammalia of
India,” “Denizens of the Jungles.” Illustrated by the author. With a
Map and an Appendix containing a brief Topographical and Historical
Account of the District of Seonee in the Central Provinces of India,
Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 7.
LARGE GAME SHOOTING IN THIBET, THE HIMALAYAS, NORTHERN
AND CENTRAL INDIA. By Brig.-General A LitzANDR R A. KIN LOCH. Con-
taining Descriptions of the Country and of the various Animals to be
found; together with extracts from a journal of several years' standing.
With 36 Illustrations from photographs and a Map. Third Edition, Re-
vised and Enlarged. Demy 4to, elegantly bound. Rs. 25.
“This splendidly illustrated record of sport, the photogravures, especially
the heads of the various, antelopes, are life-like ; and the letter-press is very
pleasant reading.”—Graphic.
“The book is capitally got up, the type is better than in former editions, and
the excellent photogravures give an exceptional value to the work.”—Asian.
DENIZENS OF THE JUNGLES.—A SERIES OF SEETCHES OF WILD
ANIMALs, illustrating their form and natural attitude. With Letter-press
Description of each Plate. By R. A. STERNDALE, F.R.G.s., F.z.s., .
author of “Natural History of the Mammalia of India,” “Seonee,” &c.
Oblong folio. Rs. 10.
I. “Denizens of the Jungles”— | VII. “A Race for Life”—Blue Bull
Aborigines—Deer—Moukeys. . and Wild Dogs. -
II. “On the Watch”—Tiger. VIII. “Meaning Mischief "-The
III. “Not so Fast Asleep as he Gaur—Indian Bison.
Looks”—Panther—Monkeys. IX. “More than His Match”—
1W, “Waiting for Father ”—Black Buffalo and Izhinoceros.
- Bears of the Plains. X. “A Critical Moment”—Spotted
W. “Rival Monarchs”—Tiger and Deer and Leopard.
Elephant. XI. “Hard Hit”—The Sambur.
WI. “ Hors de Combat "-Indian XII. “Mountain Monarchs”—Marco
Wild Boar and Tiger. Polo’s Sheep.
REMINISCENCES OF TWENTY YEARS' PIG-STICKING IN BENGAL.
By Raou L. Illustrated with 6 Portraits. Crown 8vo, cloth gilt.
Rs. 6-12. -
HORSE BREEDING AND REARING IN INDIA. – WITH NOTES O N
Tir AINING for the Flat and Across Country, and on Purchase, Breaking in
- and General Management. By Major Joh N HUMFREY, B.s.o
Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3-8. -
•; F. Z.S.
THACKER, SPINK AND Co., CALOUTTA.


14 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
INDIAN HORSE NOTES.—AN EPITOME OF USEFUL INFORMATION
arranged for ready reference on Emergencies, and specially adapted for
Officers and Mofussil Residents. All Technical Terms explained and
Simplest Remedies selected. By Major C , author of “Indian
Notes about Dogs.” Third Edition, Revised and considerably En-
larged. Feap. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 2.
DOGS FOR HOT CLIMATES.—A GUIDE FOR RESIDENTS IN TROPICAL
Count RIRs as to suitable Breeds, their Itespective Uses, Management
and Doctoring. By VERO SHAw and Captain M. H. HAY Rs. With
Illustrations. [In the Press.
HOW TO CHOOSE A DOG, AND HOW TO SELECT A PUPPY, together
with a few notes upon the peculiarities and characteristics of each Breed.
By VERO SHAw, author of “The Illustrated Book of the Dog,” late
Kennel Editor of the “Field.”
This small book contains the result of many years' careful study of all
breeds of Dogs, and condenses into a small compass a very large amount of
information of a kind that has never yet been presented to the public. Forty-
five different Breeds of Dogs are described; the compressed details as to
description, use, weights at various ages, etc., being given in two pages for
each Breed. .
GUIDE TO EXAMINATION OF HORSES, FOR SOUNDNESS FOR STU-
Dients & BEGINNICRs. By MOORE, F. R.C.V.S., Army Wety. Dept., Wety.
- Officer, Remount Depôt, Calcutta. Feap. 8vo. Sewed.
RIDING FOR LADIES, WITH HINTS ON THE STABLE.-A LADy's
Horse Book. By Mrs. Powic R O'DonoGH UK. With 75 Illustrations by
A. CHANTREY CORBOULD, Elegantly printed and bound, Imp. 16mo,
gilt. Rs. 7-8. - f
INDIAN NOTES ABOUT DOGS.--THEIR DISEASES AND TREATMENT,
By Major C Fourth Ldition, FCap., 8vo, cloth. Re. 1-8.
ANGLING ON THE KUIMAUN LAKES.—WITH A MAP OF THE KUMAON
LAKE Country and Plan of each Lake. By Depy. Surgeon-General
W. WALKER. Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 4.
“Written with all the tenderness and attention to detail which characterise
the followers of the gentle art.”—Bayes' Sporting News. -
USEFUL HINTS TO YOUNG SHIKARIS ON THE GUN AND RIFLE.—
By “THE LITTL1, OLD BEA R.” Reprinted from Asian.
THE ARMIS ACT (XI OF 1878).-WITH ALL THE NOTICES OF THE GOV-
ERNMENT OF INDIA, the Bengal, North-Western Provinces and Punjab
Governments, and High Court Decisions and Rulings. By W. HAWKINS.
Second Edition. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 7-8.
POLO RULES.— RULES OF THE CALCUTTA POLO CLUB and of the Indian
Polo Association, with the Article on Polo by “An Old Hand.” Iteprinted
from Hayes' Sporting News. Feap. 8vo. Re. 1.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA,


20 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications,
HILLS BEYOND SIMLA. — THREE MONTHS TOUR FROM SIMLA,
through Bussahir, Kunowar, and Spiti to Lahoul. (“In the Footsteps of
the Few.”) By Mrs. J. C. MURRAY-AYNslity. Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3.
THACKER'S GUIDE TO DARJEELING.—With two Maps. Feap. 8vo,
sewed. Rs. 2.
THE 4-ANNA RAILWAY GUIDE.-With Maps. Published Monthly.
As. 4.
THACKER'S GUIDE TO CALCUTTA.—WITH CHAPTERS ON ITS By.
PATHs, etc., and a chapter on the Government of India, and Maps of the
European Residence Portion and Official and Business Portion of the
City. Feap. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3.
CALCUTTA TO LIVERPOOL, BY CHINA, JAPAN, AND AMERICA, IN
1877. By Lieut.-General Sir HENRY-Norm AN. Second Edition. Feap.
8vo, cloth. Rs. 2-8.
GUIDE TO MASURI, LANDAUR, DEHRA DUN, AND THE HILLS
NokTH OF DEHRA; including Routes to the Snows and other places of
note; with Chapter on Garhwa (Tehri), Hardwar, Rurki, and Chakrata,
By John North AM. Rs. 2-8.
THE SPORTSMAN'S MANUAL.—IN QUEST OF GAME IN KULLU
Lahoul, and Ladak to the Tso Morari Lake, with Notes on Shooting in
Spiti, Bara Bagahal, Chamba, and Kashmir, and a detailed description of
Sport in more than 100 Nalas. With nine Maps. By Lt.-Col. R. H.
Ty ACKE, late H. M.'s 98th & 84th Regts. Feap. 8vo, cloth, Rs. 8-8.
FROM THE CITY OF PALACES TO ULTIMA THULE.—With a Map
of Iceland, Icelandic Vocabulary, Money Tables, &c. By H. K. Goltoon.
Crown 8vo, sewed. Re, 1.
THACKER'S INDIAN DIRECTORIES AND MAPS,
MAP OF THE CIVIL DIVISIONS OF INDIA.—Including Governments,
Divisions and Districts, Political Agencies, and Native States; also the
Cities and Towns with 10,000 Inhabitants and upwards. Coloured.
20 in. x 36 in. Folded, Re. 1. On linen, Rs. 2.
CALCUTTA.—PLANS OF THE OFFICIAL AND BUSINESS PORTION, with
houses numbered, and Index of Government Offices and Houses of Business
on the Map. Plan of the Residence portion of Calcutta with houses num-
bered so that their position may easily be found, Two maps in pocket
case. The maps are on a large scale. As. 12,
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Educational Books. 31
EDUCATIONAL BOOKS.
HINTS ON THE STUDY OF ENGLISH.—By F. J. Row E, M.A., and
W. T. WIBB, M.A., Professors of English Literature, Presidency College,
Calcutta. New Edition. With an additional chapter on the Structure
and Analysis of Sentences, and Exercises on the correction of mistakes
commonly made by Students. Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 2-8.
AN ELEMENTARY ENGLISH GRAMMAR FOR SCHOOLS IN INDIA.—
Containing numerous Exercises in Idiom. By F. J. Rowe, M.A., and
W. T. WEBB, M.A., authors of “Hints on the Study of English.” Feap.
8vo, cloth. Re. 1.
A COMPANION READER TO “HINTS ON THE STUDY OF ENGLISH.”
(Eighteenth Thousand.) Demy 8vo. Re. 1-4.
A KEY TO THE COMIPANION READER TO “HINTS ON THE STUDY OF
ENGLIS it.” With an Appendix, containing Test Examination Questions.
By F. J. lxow tº, M.A. Feap. 8vo. Rs. 2.
‘ENTRANCE TEST EXAMINATION QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS in
English, being the Questions appended to “Hints on the Study of Eng-
lish,” with their Answers, together with Fifty Supplementary Questions
and Answers. By W. T. Wit BB, M.A. 12mo, Sewed. Re. 1.
PRINCIPAL EVENTS IN INDIAN AND BRITISH HISTORY..—With
their Dates in Suggestive Sentences. In Two Parts. By Miss ADAMs,
La Martiniére College for Girls, Calcutta. Second Edition. Demy 8vo,
boards. Ite, l.
ELEMENTARY STATICS AND DYNAMICS.—By W. N. BouTFLOWER,
B.A., late Scholar of St. John's College, Cambridge, and Professor of
Mathematics, Muir Central College, Allahabad. Second Edition. Crown
8vo. Rs. 8-8.
THE STUDENT'S HANDBOOK TO HAMILTON AND MILL.-BY W.
BELL, M.A., Professor of Philosophy and Logic, Government College,
}.ahore. 8vo, boards. Rs. 2.
ELEMENTARY HYDROSTATICS.—WITH NUMEROUS EXAMPLES AND
UNIvić1:sity PAPiers. By S. B. MUKU. RJ tº it, M.A., B.L., Assistant Pro-
fessor, Government College, Lahore. 12mo, cloth. Re. 1-8.
THACK ER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


32 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
ENGLISH SELECTIONS APPOINTED BY THE SYNDICATE OF THE CAL-
CUTTA UNIVERSITY for the Entrance Examination. Crown 8vo, cloth.
Re. 1-8.
WEBB'S KEY TO THE ENTRANCE COURSE.-1894 and 1895. Each Rs. 2. '
THE LAWS OF WEALTH.—A PRIMER ON POLITICAL ECONOMY FOR
THE MIDDLU. CLASSES IN INDIA. By Horach. BitLL, C. E. Seventh
Thousand. Foap. 8vo. As. 8.
THE INDIAN LETTER-WRITER.—CONTAINING AN INTRODUCTION ON
LRTTitr WRITING, with numerous Examples in the various styles of Cor-
respondence. By H. ANDERSON. Crown 8vo, cloth. Re. 1.
A CATECHISMI ON THE RUDIMIENTS OF MIUSIC. —SIMPLIFIED FOR.
BEGINNERs. By I. LITTLEPAGE. 12mo, sewed. Re. 1.
CALCUTTA. UNIVERSITY CALENDAR FOR THE YEAR, 1893.—Coll-
taining Acts, Bye-Laws, Regulations, The University Rules for Examina-
tion, Text-Book Endowments, Affiliated Institutions, List of Graduates
and Under-Graduates, Examination Papers, 1892. Cloth. Rs. 5.
CALRNDAR for previous years. Each Rs. 5.
CALCUTTA UNIVERSITY CALENDAR.—THE ExAMINATION PAPERS,
1890 and 1891. Cloth. Each Re. 1-8.
FIFTY GRADUATED PAPERS IN ARITHMETIC, ALGEBRA, AND GEO-
MITRY for the use of Students preparing for the Entrance Examinations
of the Indian Universities. With Hints on Methods of Shortening Work
and on the Writing of IExamination Papers. By W. H. Wood, B.A.,
F.C.s., Principal, La Martiniére College. Re. 1-8.
THE PRINCIPLES OF HEAT.—FOR THE F. A. EXAMINATION Of the
Calcutta University. By LEON ARD HALL, M. A. Crown 8vo. As. 8.
ANALYSIS OF REID's ENQUIRY INTO THE HUMAN MIND.—With
Copious Notes. By W. C. FINK. Second Edition. Re. 1-12,
THE ENGLISH PEOPLE AND THEIR LANGUAGE.-Translated from
the German of Loth by C. H. TAwNFY, M.A., Professor in the Presi-
dency College, Calcutta. Stitched. As. 8.
TALES FROM INDIAN HISTORY..—BEING THE ANNALS OF INDIA
retold in Narratives. By J. TALBoys WHEELER. Crown 8vo, cloth,
School Edition. Re. 1-8.
A NOTE ON THE DEVANAGARI ALPHABET FOR BENGALISTUDENTS,
By GURU DAS BANERJEE, M.A., D.L. Crown 8vo. As. 4.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Land Temures and Land Revenue. 33
THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA.—A PRIMER FOR INDIAN SCHOOLS.
By Holt Ack BELL, C. E. Third Edition. Feap. 8vo, sewed, As. 8; in
cloth, le. 1.
Translated into Bengali. By J. N. BHATTAchArj RE, 8vo. As. 12.
AN INQUIRY INTO THE HUMAN MIND ON THE PRINCIPLES OF
CoMMON SENSE. By THOMAS R1 ID, D.D. 8vo, cloth. Re. 1-4.
A TEXT-BOOK OF INDIAN BOTANY: MoRPHOLOGICAL, PHYSIOLOGI-
CAL, and SYSTEMATIC. By W. H. G1th GG, B.M.s., Lecturer on Botany at
Hugli Government College. Profusely Illustrated. Crown 8vo. Rs. 5.
A MORAL READING BOOK FROM ENGLISH AND ORIENTAL SOURCES.
|By RoP1. It Littii Bit IDGE, C.I.E., M.A. Crown 8vo, cloth. As. 14.
A PRIMER CATECHISM OF SANITATION FOR INDIAN SCHOOLS.–
Founded on Dr. Cunningham’s Sanitary Primer. By L. A. STAPLEY.
Second IEdition. As. 4.
NOTES ON MILL’S EXAMINATION OF HAMILTON'S PHILOSOPHY,
Bv Thom(As Edwards. F. it.I.s. Feap., Sewed. Re. 1.
9 }
A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE.-BY THOMAS
Edwa Rios, F.R.I.s. 18mo. Re. 1-4.
LAMIB’S TALES FROM SHAKESPEARE.—AN EDITION IN GOOD TYPE
Cloth. A s. 12.
LAND TENURES AND LAND REVENUE.
AZIZUDDIN AHMED.—THE N.-W. PROVINCES LAND REVENUE
ACT. Being Act XIX of 1873 as amended by Acts I and VIII of 1879, XII
of 1881, XIII and XIV of 1882, XX of 1890, and XII of 1891. With Notes,
Government Orders, Board Circulars and Decisions, and Rulings of the
Allahabad High Court. By AZIZUDDIN AHMICD, Deputy Collector and
Magistrate. Demy 8vo, cloth. Rs. 8.
RAMPINI AND FINUCANE.—THE BENGAL TENANCY ACT.-Be-
ing Act VIII of 1885. With Notes and Annotations, Judicial Rulings and
the löules framed by the Local Government and the High Court under
the Act, for the guidance of Revenue Officers and the Civil Courts. By R.
F. RAMPINI, M.A., C.s., Barrister-at-Law, and M. FINUCANE, M.A., C.s.
Second Edition. Rs. 7.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.
C


34 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
BEVERLEY.—THE LAND ACQUISITION ACTS (ACTS X of 1870 AND
XVIII of 1885). With Introduction and Notes. The whole forming a
complete Manual of Law and Practice on the subject of Compensation for
Lands taken for Public Purposes. Applicable to all India. By H.
BEvict:LEY, M.A., B, C.S. Second Ldition. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 6.
FORSYTH.—REVENUE SALE-LAW OF LOWER BENGAL, comprising
Act XI of 1859; Bengal Act VII of 1868; Bengal Act VII of 1880
(Public Demands Recovery Act), and the unrepealed Regulations and the
Rules of the Board of Revenue on the subject. With Notes. Edited by
WM. E. H. Forsyth. Demy 8vo, cloth. Rs. 5.
PHILLIPS.–MANUAL OF REVENUE AND COLLECTORATE LAW.
With Important Rulings and Annotations. By H. A. D. PullLIPs,
Bengal Civil Service. Crown 8vo, cloth. [1884] Rs. 10.
CONTENTs:—Alluvion and Diluvion, Certificate, Cesses, Road and Public
Works, Collectors, Assistant Collectors, Drainage, Embankment, Evidence,
JExcise, Lakhiraj Grants and Service Tenures, and Land Acquisition, Land
Registration, Legal Practitioners, License Tax, Limitation, Opium, Parti-
tion, Public Demands Recovery, Putni Sales, Registratiºn, lèevenue Sales,
Salt, Settlement, Stamps, Survey and Wards. *
REYNOLDS.–THE NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES RENT ACT.—
With Notes, &c. By H. W. l{EYNOLDs, C.S. Deny 8vo. [1886] Rs. 7.
FIELD,-LANDHOLDING, AND THE RELATION OF LANDLORD AND
TirNANT in various countries of the world. By C. D. TIELD, M.A., LL.D.
Second Edition. 8vo, cloth. Rs. 16.
N.B.—This edition contains “The Bengal Tenancy Act, 1885,” with Notes
and Observations ; and an Indez to the whole of the Law of Landlord and
Tenant in Bengal.
“We may take it that, as regards Indian laws and customs, Mr. Field
shows himself to be at once an able and skilled authority. In order, however,
to render his work more complete, he has compiled, chiefly from Blue-books
and similar public sources, a mass of info:mation having reference to the
land-laws of most European countries, of the United States of America, and
our Australasian colonies.”—Field.
GRIMLEY. —MANUAL OF THE REVENUE SALE LAW AND CERTIFI-
CATIC PitockDURIt of Lower Bengal, including the Acts on the Subject and
Selections from the Rules and Circular Orders of the Board of Revenue.
With Notes. By W. H. GRIMLEY, B.A., c.s. 8vo. Rs. 5-8; inter-
leaved, Rs. 6.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Civil Procedure, Small Cause Court, etc. 37
GHOSE.--THE LAW OF MORTGAGE IN INDIA, WITH THE TRANSFER
of PRoPickTY ACT AND NOTEs. By 18 Asli Bich Alt1 Gliosit, M.A., D.L.,
Tagore Law Professor, 1876. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged.
New Edition. [In preparation.
RIVAZ.--THE INDIAN LIMITATION ACT.-WITH NOTES. By the
Hon’ble H. T. lxi vaz, Barrister-at-Law, Judge of the High Court of the
Punjab. Fourth Edition. [In the Press,
SUCCESSION, ADMINISTRATION, ETC.
FORSYTH.—THE PROBATE AND ADMINISTRATION ACT.—Being
Act V of 1881. With Notes. By W. E. H. Forsyth. Edited, with
Index, by F. J. Collisson. Demy 8vo, cloth. Rs. 5.
HENDERSON.—THE LAW OF INTESTATE AND TESTAMENTARY
Succi'ssion IN INDIA ; including the Indian Succession Act (X of 1865
with a Commentary ; and the Parsee Succession Act (XXI of 1865), the
Hindu Wills Act (XXI of 1870), the Probate and Administration Act, &c.
With Notes and Cross References. By GILBERT S. HINDERSON, M.A.,
Barrister-at-Law, and Advocate of the High Court at Calcutta.
HENDERSON.—THE LAW OF TESTAMENTARY DEVISE.—As ad-
ministered in India, or the Law relating to Wills in India. With an Ap-
pendix, containing:—The Indian Succession Act (X of 1865), the Hindu
Wills Act (XXI of 1870), the Probate and Administration Act (V of 1881)
with all amendments, the Probate Administration Act (VI of 1889), and
the Certificate of Succession Act (VII of 1889). By G. S. HićNDERson,
M.A., Barrister-at-Law. (Tagore Law Lectures, 1887.) Royal 8vo, cloth.
lès. 16.
CIVIL PROCEDURE, SMALL CAUSE COURT, ETC.
BROUGHTON.—THE CODE OF CIVIL PROCEDURE.—BEING ACT X
of 1877. With Notes and Appendix. By the Hon’ble L. P. DELves
BROUGHToN, assisted by W. F. AGN lºw and G. S. HRNDIERson. Royal
8vo, cloth. Reduced to 18s. 7. - .
O'KINEALY.—THE CODE OF CIVIL PROCEDURE (ACT XIV OF 1882).
With Notes, Appendices, &c. By the Hon'ble J. O'KINEALY. Fourth
Edition. Royal 8vo. Rs. 16. -
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Criminal Law. 39
AGNEW AND HENDERSON.—THE CODE OF CRIMINAL PROCE-
DURH (ACT X of 1882), together with Rulings, Circular Orders, Notifica-
tions, &c., of all the High Courts in India, and Notifications and Orders : f
the Government of India and the Local Governments. Edited, with
Copious Notes and Full Index, by W. F. AGN Rw, Bar.-at-Law, author of
“A Treatise on the Law of Trusts in India”; and GILBERT S. HEN-
DR RSON, M.A., Bar.-at-Law, author of “A Treatise on the Law of Testa-
mentary and Intestate Succession in India.” Third Edition. Rs. 14.
O’KINEALY.—THE INDIAN PENAL CODE.-BEING ACT XLV OF
1860, and other Laws and Acts of Parliament relating to the Criminal
Courts of India ; containing Rulings on Points of Procedure and Deci-
sions of the High Court of Calcutta. Third Edition. By the Hon’ble
J. O'KIN EALY. Royal 8vo. [1886] Rs. 12.
PHILLIPS.–MANUAL OF INDIAN CRIMINAL LAW.—Being the
Penal Code, Criminal Procedure Code, Evidence, Whipping, General
Clauses, Police, Cattle-Trespass, Extradition Acts, with Penal Clauses of
Legal Practitioners’ Act, Registration, Arms, Stamp, &c., Acts. Fully
Annotated, and containing all Applicable Rulings of all High Courts
arranged under the Appropriate Sections up to date ; also Circular Orders
and Notifications. By H. A. D. PHILLIps, C.s. Second Edition. Thick
crown 8vo. Rs. 10. . |
PHILLIPS.–COMPARATIVE CRIMINAL JURISPRUDENCE.-Show-
ing the Law, Procedure, and Case-Law of other Countries, arranged
under the corresponding sections of the Indian Codes. By H. A. D.
PHILLIPS, B.C.S. Vol. I, Crimes and Punishments. Vol. II, Procedure
and Police. Demy 8vo, cloth. Rs. 12.
PRINSEP.—CODE OF CRIMINAL PROCEDURE (ACT X of 1882), and
- other Laws and Rules of Practice relating to Procedure in the Criminal
Courts of British India. With Notes. By the Hon’ble H. T. PRINske,
Judge, High Court, Calcutta. Tenth Edition, brought up to June 1892.
Royal 8vo. Rs. 12. -
TOYNBEE.—THE WILLAGE CHAUKIDARI MANUAL.—BEING ACT
VI (B.C.) of 1870, as amended by Acts I (B. C.) of 1871 and 1886. With
Notes, Appendices, &c. By G. Toy NBRiº, C.s., Magistrate of Hooghly
Second Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, cloth. Re. 1. º
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


40 Thacker, Spink and Co.'s Publications.
SWIN HOE.—THE CASE NOTED PENAL CODE, AND OTHER ACTS.
Act XLV of 1860 as amended with references to all leported Cases
decided under each section. Crown 8vo, cloth. Its. 7.
EVIDENCE.
FIELD.—THE LAW OF EVIDENCE IN BRITISH INDIA.—Being a
Treatise on the Indian Evidence Act as amended by Act XVIII of 1872.
By the Hon'ble C. D. Filtln, M.A., LL.D. Fifth Edition. Rs. 18.
STEL’HEN.—THE PRINCIPLES OF JUDICIAL EVIDENCE. – An Intro-
duction to the Indian Evidence Act, 1872. By Sir JAMEs Fitz-JAMKs
STEPHEN, formerly Legislative Member of the Supreme Council of
India. A New Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth. Rs. 3.
MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE.
LYON.—MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE FOR INDIA.—By J. B. LYON,
F.C.s., F.C., Brigade-Surgeon, Professor of Medical Jurisprudence, Grant
Medical College, Bombay. The Legal Matter revised by J. D. INvitit A-
RITY, Barrister-at-Law. Second Edition. Illustrated. 8vo. Rs. 16.
GRIBBLE.-OUTLINES OF MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE FOR INDIA.
By J. D. B. Git IBBLic, M.C.S. (Retired), PATRICK IIK 11 IR, M.D., F.R.C.S.K.,
Third Edition, Revised, Enlarged, and Annotated. Demy 8vo. Rs. 5-8.
DIGEST.S.
SUTHERLAND.—THE DIGEST OF INDIAN LAW REPORTS.—A
Compendium of the Rulings of the High Court of Calcutta from 1862, and
of the Privy Council from 1831 to 1876. By D. SUTHERLAND, Bar-,
rister-at-Law. Imp 8vo, Rs. 8. Vol. II, 1876 to 1890, thick cloth
imp. 8vo. Rs. 12. .
WOODMAN.—A DIGEST OF THE INDIAN LAW REPORTS and of the
Reports of the cases heard in appeal by the Privy Council, 1887 to 1889.
Edited by J. W. WooDMAN. Super-royal 8vo.
THACKER, SPINK AND CO., CALCUTTA.


Öſte Järjeeling #1tgical Jepot.
F. BRAHAM & CO., Post Office Road.
PIANOFORTES BY COLLARD AND COLLARD, London ;
J. BROADWOOD AND SONS, ſuondon ;
SCH ! E D NM EYE F &, SO E H NE, STUTTGART 3
PLEYEL AND WOLFE, Paris.
PIANOFORTESTUNED AND REPAIRED,
TVVT O TER, IEC G- TUT AL TEC, AL INT TIE TE T).
PIAN OFORTES FOR SALE OR HIRE.
MUSIC AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
C.A.T.A.T.C.G.T.J.E.S E'EEE-
THACKER, SPINK & CO.,
5 & 6, Government Place, Calcutta,
B00KSELLERS, PUBLISHERS, STATIONERS,
PRINTERS, etc.
GUIDE BOOKS TO THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS.
Murray's Guide Books to India and all parts of the World.
MAPS, RAILWAY TIME TABLES.
STANDARD WORKS ON INDIA, (D)