15 CÚIDE TO RHODESIA bof 20 UNIVERS MICHIGAN K JHL 1817 LIBRARIES The Late Right Hon. Cecil John Rhodes, Founder of Rhodesia. RHODESIA FOR THE USE OF TOURISTS & SETTLERS WITH ILLUSTRATIONS MAPS & PLANS GRATIS COP FIRST ÉDIFI 2/-N Issued by Authority of the BEIRA AND MASHONALAND AND RHODESIA RAILWAYS 1914 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Special thanks are due to Mr. R. N. HALL for his work in connection with this book. N addition to those gentlemen who have contributed signed articles, I interesting matter is incorporated in these pages from the following :- Messrs. A. M. Bentley, Broken Hill; H. Bertin, Salisbury; A. A. Campbell, Native Commissioner, Insiza ; A. Drew, Native Com- missioner, Mazoe; J. Murdoch Eaton, Gaika Mine; W. Edwards, Native Commissioner, Mrewas ; R. S. Fairbridge, Umtali; W. E. Farrer, Native Commissioner, Belingwe; A. Giese, Deka; W. Grantham, Umsururu; A. Howat, Umtali; C. S. Heron, Head- lands; H. M. G. Jackson, District Native Superintendent, Bulawayo; H. S. Keigwin, Native Commissioner, Lomagundi ; E. P. de Kock, Marandellas ; H. H. A. de Laessoe, Mazunga; W. M. Leggate, Hartley; W. M. Longden, Magistrate and Civil Commissioner, Melsetter; A. Mathers, Makwiro; E. Meister, Sawmills; D. H. Moody, Native Commissioner, Inyanga; L. F. Moore, Livingstone; E. R. R. Morkel, Native Commissioner, Mtokos ; J. M. Mowbray, F.R.G.S., Shamva; Col. W. Napier, C.M.G., M.L.C., Umvuma; Major R.C. Nesbitt, V.C., Native Com- missioner, Goromonzi; D. M. Powley, Native Commissioner, Mount Darwin ; J. P. Richardson, Essexvale ; T. M. Rixon, Fort Rixon ; T. M. Thomas, Native Commissioner, Umzingwani ; W. E. Thomas, Native Commissioner, Victoria; A. R. Thomson, M.Inst.M.E., Wankie ; C. D. Trotter, Native Commissioner, Gokwe; A. E. V. Zealley, Bulawayo, &c. PREFACE T WHIS Guide to Rhodesia has been prepared and published by the Management of the Beira and Mashonaland and Rhodesia Railways in order to provide a comprehensive and concise survey of the Territory, its history, topography, climate, health, natural resources, mining, farming, and general industries, educa- tional provision, railway systems, trade and commerce, possibilities of development and closer settlement, and also a descriptive account of its many places of interest. It is believed that the Guide will be found of practical utility to tourists, settlers, and capitalists, in fact, all who are anxious to obtain trustworthy information concerning the vast territories which the genius of Cecil John Rhodes rescued from barbarism and brought under British sovereignty and civilisation. The value of the Guide rests on the fact that it is written entirely by Rhodesian Settlers, the contributors being residents who are known to possess the most reliable information as to the development and prospects of their own particular localities. To these the Management tenders its sincere thanks for their willing co-operation in demonstrating the poten- tialities of this young and rapidly advancing country, thereby rendering a valuable service to the land of their adoption. No attempt has been made to deal exhaustively with the many and important features represented by Rhodesia, and for those who may require additional information on any question concerning the Territory, a “Bibliography of Rhodesia " is given in the Guide. GENERAL MANAGER'S OFFICE Beira & Mashonaland & Rhodesia Railways Bulawayo, 1914 vii CONTENTS PAGE PAGE : : : : : : : : : i Historical Sketch ü Prehistoric Rhodesia iïi Climate iv Public Health v Geology ... vi Mining vii Farming viii Information for Farmers ... ix Forestry ... X Big Game xi Commerce xii Education xiii Churches and Missions ... xiv Bibliography General Information xvi Railway Itinerary Shashi River to Bulawayo xvii Bulawayo xviii Khami Ruins xix The Matopo Hills xx Railway Itinerary-Bulawayo to Victoria Falls xxi The Victoria Falls : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : 20 30 35 41 47 62 91 108 110 120 125 138 157 165 ... XV ... : : 175 187 196 206 : : : : 215 222 ix CONTENTS PAGE 242 252 261 XXV 269 xxi Northern Rhodesia xxii Railway Itinerary-Bulawayo to West Nicholson xxiv Railway Itinerary-Bulawayo to Gwelo Gwelo District and Town. Selukwe District. Charter District ... xxvi Victoria, N'danga, Chibi, Gutu, and Chilimanzi Districts xxvii Great Zimbabwe xxvii Railway Itinerary-Gwelo to Salisbury xxix Salisbury District and Town Railway Itinerary–Salisbury to Eldorado xxxi. Railway Itinerary-Salisbury to Shamva xxxü Railway Itinerary-Salisbury to Beira ... xxxii The Rhodesian Railways-General In- formation 282 287 306 321 329 341 350 XXX 372 ... X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE ... The Rt. Hon. Cecil John Rhodes Frontispiece Shangani Memorial 6 The Right Hon. Sir Starr Jameson, President of the British South Africa Company 9 His Honour Sir William Milton, Administrator of Rhodesia ... 10 Mr. Rhodes at "World's View" 17 Grave of Mr. Rhodes... ... 17 A Bushman... 21 Bushman Paintings 22 Salisbury Hospital ... 39 Bulawayo Hospital 39 Sinoia Cottage Hospital 39 Native Hospital, Globe and Phoenix Mine ... 39 Rock Scenery, Matopo Hills 40 Rock Scenery, near Macheke 40 Shamva Mine Workings 49 Shamva Mine : Native Compound 49 Globe and Phoenix Mine 50 Lonely Mine 50 Giant Mine ... 50 Old Nic Mine 50 Wankie Colliery 57 Rezende Mines 57 Chrome Iron Mine 58 Bushtick Mine 58 ... ii xi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ... ... : : : : : .. PAGE 58 65 65 65 66 66 66 77 77 ... 78 78 87 87 88 88 ... 99 99 99 100 10) ... Bushtick Mine : Native Hospital, Store, and Compound Cattle Grazing Cattle Drinking The Gwelo Stockyards (Sale) Shearing Sheep ... Ostriches Poultry Farm ... An Inyanga Orchard ... Fruit Ready for Market A Matopos Orchard ... The Matopo Dam Field of Maize Maize Ready for Sale .. A Tobacco Plantation Curing Turkish Leaf ... Field of Oats Field of Potatoes Field of Velvet Beans... Tobacco Factory, Bulawayo The Gwelo Creamery... Waterbuck ... Wildebeeste... ... .. ... Buffalo Elephant High School, Salisbury ... Eveline High School, Bulawayo A High School Boarding House Milton High School, Bulawayo... St. George's School, Bulawayo ... Gaul's House, Plumtree School... David Livingstone Church of England, Bulawayo Pro-Cathedral, Salisbury ... : : ... ... : : 115 ... 115 116 116 129 129 129 130 130 130 139 140 45 ... ... xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ... ... PAGE 146 146 148 149 149 167 168 177 177 177 178 178 189 189 189 190 190 ... ... Presbyterian Church, Bulawayo... Wesleyan Church, Bulawayo Church of the Immaculate Conception, Bulawayo Chishawasha Mission Church, Exterior Chishawasha Mission Church, Interior M'Holi, a well-known Hunting Boy Natives Hulling and Winnowing Corn S.R. Volunteers : Inspection by Sir lan Hamilton S.R. Volunteers : Review by Lord Gladstone The Bulawayo Drill Hall The Rhodes Statue, Bulawayo The Rebellion Memorial, Bulawayo Mashonaland Agency Buildings, Bulawayo Public Library, Bulawayo Grand Hotel, Bulawayo Municipal Park, Bulawayo ... Municipal Zoo, Bulawayo Raylton Institute, Bulawayo ... Reservoir, Bulawayo ... Khami Ruins : A Passage Khami Ruins : Main Entrance ... Khami Ruins : “ Precipice" Ruin ... The Natural Wall, Matopo Hills ... Matopo “ Dam" Hotel Matopo (Railway) Terminus Hotel Victoria Falls : Spray Cloud Victoria Falls : Leaping Waters" Victoria Falls : Eastern Cataract Victoria Falls : Main Falls ... Zambesi River : Landing Stage... ... Victoria Falls from Livingstone Island Livingstone's Tree, Livingstone Island Victoria Falls : The Railway Bridge and Canon ... ... 197 ... ... ... ... .. ... ... ... 197 201 202 202 207 208 208 225 226 226 231 231 232 232 235 . ... ... ... ... xiii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ... ... ... ... ... ... ... PAGE 236 236 239 240 240 240 246 246 247 248 271 271 271 272 272 281 281 289 289 290 290 293 294 294 297 298 303 303 304 318 323 324 327 Victoria Falls : The Rain Forest Victoria Falls : The Palm Kloof At the Victoria Falls : The “Big” (Baobab) Tree... Zambesi River : Natives in “ Dug-outs”... Zambesi River : Motor Launch Umgusa River Lewanika, King of the Barotse Native Police Band ... Livingstone Club ... Kafue River and Bridge ... ... Court House, Gwelo ... ... ... Gwelo Club... Masonic Temple, Gwelo Railway Station, Gwelo ... Selukwe A Homestead in Rhodesia Ranch Cattle at Rhodesdale Matendere Ruins : Wall with Herring-bone Pattern Matendere Ruins : Wall with Dentelle Pattern Zimbabwe Ruins Zimbabwe Ruins : Decadent" type of Wall Zimbabwe Ruins : Conical Tower Zimbabwe Ruins : “Original” and “Decadent” Walls Zimbabwe Ruins : Wall with Chevron Pattern ... Zimbabwe Ruins : Parallel Passage Zimbabwe Ruins : North Entrance to Temple Zimbabwe Ruins : Acropolis Ruins Zimbabwe Ruins : Granite Monoliths Zimbabwe Ruins : Carved Monolith River Scenery between Hartley and Gadzema Government House, Salisbury Salisbury ... Victoria Memorial Library, Salisbury ... ... ... ... .. ... ... xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ... ... ... First Street, Salisbury... Salisbury Club Queen's Hotel, Salisbury Commercial Hotel, Salisbury ... Cleveland Reservoir, Salisbury Hunyani River : Above the Falls Hunyani River : Below the Falls Sinoia Caves Mazoe River North of Shamva In Darwin District The Inyanga Ruins The Inyanga Ruins : A Shelter Pit Entrance Umtali Main Street, Umtali Turner Memorial Library, Umtali Amatongas Forest Street Scene, Beira Beira Port ... PAGE 331 331 332 332 332 335 335 336 347 348 348 355 356 363 364 364 369 369 370 ... ... XV LIST OF MAPS. page 198 Khami Ruins Victoria Falls Great Zimbabwe Great Zimbabwe : Elliptical Temple Great Zimbabwe: Acropolis Ruins Rhodesia faces page 222 faces page 287 faces page 288 faces page 300 faces page 382 xvi: NOTICE SI VINCE the issue of this Guide, certain alterations have been made in the train services shewn on pages 373 to 376, and intending travellers should obtain up-to-date information from the railway officials when arranging their journeys. The rates for certain classes of traffic have also been revised. Full particulars of present rates and fares are given in the current official Tariff Books. The Bridge Toil mentioned on page 233 has been abolished. The extension of the railway line from Umvuma to Fort Victoria--referred to on page 378, has been completed, thus bringing the Zimbabwe Ruins within some 14 miles of the railway terminus. The special return fares from Beira to Fort Victoria, for parties of four travelling together, are £7 Is. 3d. first, and £5 9s. 3d. second class. At Fort Victoria motor cars may be hired for the trip to Zimbabwe and back at moderate charges. GENERAL MANAGER'S OFFICE Beira and Mashonaland and Rhodesia Railways. Bulawayo, 1917. XVI. STANDARD BANK of SOUTH AFRICA, Ltd. Established 1862. Bankers to the Government of the Union of S. Africa in the Cape Province ; to the Imperial Government in South Africa ; and to the Administration of Rhodesia. Subscribed Capital £6,194,100 Paid-up Capital £1,548,525 Reserve Fund £2,000,000 ... Board of Directors : Wm. Reierson Arbuthnot, Esq. Sir David Miller Barbour, K.C.S.I, K.C.M.G. Robert Edmund Dickinson, Esq. J.P. James Fairbairn Finlay, Esq., CSI. Horace Peel, E-q William Smart, Esq Rt. Hon. Lord Sydenham, G.C.M.G., G.C S.I., G C.I.E. Herbert I eslie Melville Tritton, Esq. Head Office: 10, Clement's Lane, Lombard Street, London, E.C. New York Agency: 55, Wall Street. Head Office in South Africa - Cape Town. General Manager Hector Mackenzie. Deputy General Manager J. P. Gibson. Assistant General Manager Noel Jennings. Over 250 Branches and Agencies in the Union of South Africa, Rhodesia, Nyasaland, East Africa Protectorate, Uganda, Portuguese East Africa, Protectorate of South-West Africa, and the Territory formerly known as German East Africa. The Bank has Agents and Correspondents throughout Europe, America, Canada, Australasia, India, China, Japan, and the East generally, Assay Departments at Bulawayo and Salisbury: Gold, Tin, and all mineral ores assayed and realised, The officers of the Bank are bound not to disclose the transactions of any of its Customers I.-HISTORICAL SKETCH By A. H. HOLLAND, Private Secretary to His Honour the Administrator of Southern Rhodesia. RHODESIA owes its name to the Right Honourable C. J. Rhodes, whose foresight secured this rich and important State for the British Empire It is administered by the British South Africa Company under Royal Charter, dated 1889, as amended by Orders-in-Council, dated 1894 and 1898. The executive powers vested in the Company by these Orders are exercised by Adminis- trators appointed by it with the approval of the Secretary of State for the Colonies. The original field of the operations of the Company was defined by its Charter of Incorporation as the region of South Africa lying immediately to the north of British Bechuanaland and to the north and west of the South African Republic and to the west of the Portuguese dominions." Of these extensive territories (amounting in all to about 750,000 square miles -an area larger than that of France, Germany, Austria, and Italy together), the Company is now responsible for the administration of the following portions, in all some 440,000 square miles : Southern Rhodesia, or the Provinces of Mashonaland and Matabeleland. Northern Rhodesia, or the whole of the British sphere lying between the Portuguese Settlements, German East Africa, and the Congo Free State, with the exception of the strip of territory forming the British Central Africa Protectorate. It is divided into two provinces—North-Eastern Rhodesia and North-Western Rhodesia. Southern Rhodesia is the high plateau between the Limpopo and Zambesi rivers. The capital and seat of government is Salisbury, which is the chief town of Mashonaland, as Bulawayo is of Matabeleland. Munici- palities have been established at both centres since the I A GUIDE TO RHODESIA close of 1897. Umtali, Gwelo, and Gatooma are now also important towns; there are other townships at Hartley, Victoria, Melsetter, Enkeldoorn, Rusapi, Gwanda, Selukwe, and Bindura. Had it not been for the formation of the British South Africa [the Chartered] Company, Matabeleland and Mashonaland would probably have fallen to a foreign Power or have become part of the South African Republic. Early in the eighties more than one European Power was anxious to establish itself in South Africa. At that time the British Imperial Parliament could not see its way to undertake the vast responsibilities involved in the acquisition of such an extensive territory as that now known as Rhodesia. Further, President Kruger, forestalled in his project of acquiring Bechuana- land, had already sent emissaries to Lobengula, King of the Matabele nation, but was once more anticipated by the action of Mr. Rhodes. Early in 1888, Lobengula entered into a Treaty of Peace and Amity with Great Britain ; and Messrs. C. D. Rudd, Rochfort Maguire, and F. R. (“Matabele ”) Thompson were sent up to Matabeleland to obtain concessions with a view to the formation of the British South Africa Company. The Rudd Concession having been granted by Lobengula, (30th October, 1888), Her Majesty's Government was approached and a Royal Charter obtained (29th October, 1889). The Occupation. The Company, having decided on the advice of Loben- gula to open up Mashonaland first, organised a Pioneer Expedition under Major Frank Johnson (June, 1890) consisting of 187 Europeans and 150 natives. This was accompanied by a force of Police under the command of Colonel Pennefather. The aim of the Expedition was to cut a road from Macloutsie, passing through the south of Matabeleland and terminating at Mount Hampden in Mashonaland. The Column finally camped, however, at Fort Salisbury, a spot 12 miles south-east of Mount Hampden (12th September, 1890), and 400 miles from Macloutsie. The Column was 2 - HISTORICAL shortly afterwards. disbanded, and the members imme- diately began prospecting the country and occupying the farms that were apportioned to them as a reward for their work. Much was done by the Company in the next four years to develop the country. Mr. A. Colquhoun assumed the administration of Mashonaland in October, 1890, there being then about 1,000 white men in the country. To-day, there is a population of about 32,500. Mr. Colquhoun was succeeded, in September, 1891, by Dr. L. S. (now Sir Starr) Jameson, with the title of Chief Magistrate. For the protection of the community, forts had been built at Tuli, Victoria, Charter, and Salisbury, and a military police force enrolled. The strength of the force in 1891 reached 650, but was reduced as soon as was convenient to 140 whites and 15 native police. It was supplemented by a volunteer force 500 strong, known as the “ Mashonaland Horse,' which was raised locally by Major Forbes ; the remainder of the settlers formed a burgher force for service in case of need. · The exten- sion northwards of the Cape telegraph and railway from Mafeking was arranged for, and the survey for the Beira railway, connecting Mashonaland with the east coast, begun in 1891. A Commission consisting of prominent South African farmers came up in 1891 to enquire into the agricultural prospects of the country. Its report was most satisfactory, and resulted in the organisation of what was known as the Moodie Trek of farmers with their families, who left the Orange Free State in May, 1892, and founded the settlement of Melsetter, in Gazaland, early the follow- ing year. In 1890 and 1891 it was found to be the intention of a number of Boers from the Transvaal to enter the south-east portion of Matabeleland and occupy it by force. This invasion was averted by the firm attitude of the Chartered Company. Boer farmers were, however, invited to come into the country and settle peacefully. A number did so, and these now form the majority of the residents in the districts of Charter 3 A 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA and Melsetter ; all, it may be said, assisted the Company loyally during the native troubles. In 1891 the Company found itself somewhat embar- rassed by the action of Mr. Edward A. Lippert, a Trans- vaal financier and banker, in obtaining from Lobengula a concession to grant land titles in the Company's field of operations. As the Rudd Concession did not formally provide for more than mining rights, it was decided to come to terms with Mr. Lippert and to take over his Concession. This was accordingly arranged, and the matter received the consent of Lord Knutsford, Her Majesty's Secretary of State, in March, 1892. Other concessions from numerous chiefs were secured soon after the arrival of the Pioneers in the country, the most important being those from Umtasa (Manicaland), Lewanika (Barotseland), and Gungunyana (Gazaland). In connection with certain of these concessions some friction arose with the Portuguese in East Africa, result- ing in the temporary occupation of Macequece by a Rhodesian force. À modus vivendi was, however, arrived at, and the most cordial relations have since prevailed between the authorities and peoples of both territories. The Matabele War. The year 1893 was a most eventful one for the com- munity. The Bechuanaland Railway Company had been formed and had started work on the Vryburg- Bulawayo extension; the first section of the Beira rail- way had been opened, and a good road made from Salisbury to railhead ; and a telegraph line had been constructed from Mafeking to Salisbury. A period of steady progress was anticipated. Unfortunately, war with the Matabele broke out, owing to the policy adopted by Lobengula. The duty of maintaining peace and order imposed on the Company by the Charter was made most difficult by the character of the Matabele military system. Under this system the Mashonas were periodi- cally raided, their cattle looted, and men, women, and children carried into slavery, the Mashona tribes being thus reduced to an abject and impoverished condition. 4 HISTORICAL 'On several occasions white men, even, were stopped and plundered. Conciliatory measures were always adopted, but these were taken by the Matabele to be a sign of weakness, and the raids, apparently restrained at first by the presence of the whites, began to increase in num- ber and extent. Representations to Lobengula proved unavailing. On the 18th July, 1893, a Matabele impi raided Victoria, and assegaied certain natives, servants of the Company and others, in the streets of the town. Later in the year the Company's police were fired on. Eventually, Dr. Jameson was authorised by the High Commissioner to proceed as he thought best, and the Company prepared for war. On the 5th October the Matabele fired on a party of Bechuanaland Border Police, an Imperial force patrolling British territory. The High Commissioner immediately ordered Colonel (now Sir Hamilton) Goold-Adams to occupy Tati with a force of Police and to effect a junction with the Company's column, which was about to proceed northwards, at Tuli. The main body of the Company's forces, consisting of police, settlers, and native allies, under the command of Major P. W. Forbes and accom- panied by Dr. Jameson, entered Matabeleland early in October, 1893, and was joined there by Mr. Rhodes, who had hurried up from the south. Decisive engagements occurred at the Shangani River (24th October) and the Bembesi River (1st November), in which Lobengula's best regiments were thoroughly beaten. Bulawayo, Lobengula's capital, was occupied on the 4th November. It was found to have been burnt out by Lobengula's orders, and the king himself had taken flight towards the Zambesi. Letters were sent after him requesting him to return, and guaranteeing his safety ; but no answer being received Major Forbes was instructed to pursue him. On December 3rd, at a point near the Shangani River, 84 miles north- north-west of Shiloh, the pursuers came close up on his track, and a small reconnoitring party under Major Alan Wilson crossed the river. Unfortunately, the Shangani 5 GUIDE TO RHODESIA afterwards came down in flood and cut this force off from the main body. Severe fighting ensued, but after making a most gallant stand Major Wilson and his band were overwhelmed by Lobengula's bodyguard. Not one was left alive. Native testimony shows that the fighting lasted for several hours, and that Major Wilson Photo by] [S. C. Turner, Eulawayo. Shangani Memorial, Matopos. and his men offered the most desperate resistance. Their bodies were recovered and buried near the Zim- babwe Ruins ; but at the wish of Mr. Rhodes, and with the consent of the relatives, they were removed to “ World's View,” in the Matopo Hills, near Bulawayo, in 1904, where the Founder of the country also lies at rest. A noble monument has been erected over them ; a stone 6 HISTORICAL marks their temporary resting-place near Zimbabwe. Owing to the difficulty of moving troops in the rainy season, Major Forbes returned to Bulawayo after the Shangani disaster, while Lobengula and the remnants of his band retired towards the Zambesi. Here they fell a prey to small-pox and fever. The death of Lobengula brought the war to a finish, after five weeks of active operations. Under the altered circumstances of the country it became necessary to discuss its future administration with Her Majesty's Government. As a result of these discussions, a new Constitution was agreed upon (Order- in-Council of the 18th July, 1894), the Government of the country being carried on by an Administrator (Dr. L. S. Jameson) and a Council of four, consisting of a Judge (Mr. Justice--now Sir Joseph-Vintcent) and three other members (Colonel F. W. Rhodes, D.S.O., Military Member of Council ; Mr. A. H. F. Duncan, Surveyor-General; and Mr. George Pauling, Commissioner of Public Works). The regulations passed by the Admin istrator-in-Council were agreed to have the force of law, after approval and promulgation by the High Com- missioner. At the time of framing this Constitution, Mr. Rhodes was most anxious to insert a provision to prevent the imposition of any Customs dues on British goods in excess of the rates then in force in the then Cape Colony, which were low rates levied for purposes of government and not for protection or prohibition. His object was to secure the trade of Rhodesia to Great Britain for ever at a low tariff rate. Her Majesty's Government, though not at the moment, eventually agreed to the proposal which is embodied in the Order-in- Council of 1898, and known as the Rhodes Clause. The importance of this tie between the Mother Country and the new territory cannot be over-estimated. The years 1894 and 1895 were marked by prosperity and peace. The ..mining and farming industries were developed, and the railways and telegraphs extended. With the absorption of Matabeleland and the taking 7 GUIDE TO RHODESIA over of the northern provinces it was considered wise to re-organise the Volunteer Force. At the same time a force of Native Police, consisting entirely of Matabele (mostly from Lobengula's crack regiments) was estab- lished, their main duties being to assist Native Commis- sioners in police and detective work in connection with the natives. In December, 1895, came the famous Raid into the Transvaal by a force largely composed of the Company's Police. Dr. Jameson's resignation from the position of Administrator followed, the Right Honourable the Earl Grey succeeding him in April, 1896. After these events, further changes in the Constitution were made, providing for the closer control of the Administration by the Crown. The Matabele Rebellion. The Territory, deprived for the time being of its police protection owing to the Raid, was at a disadvantage when the Matabele rose in March, 1896. The causes of the rising are thought to be as follow : The incomplete subjugation of the Matabele in 1893. The inability of a warlike and masterful people to settle down at once under a peaceful regime. The premature organisation of Native Police, whose actions are said to have been irritating and overbearing. The influence of the priests of the “ M’limo ” (the Karanga priest) who persuaded the Matabele that the phenomenal combination of physical plagues which fell upon the country at this time was a curse due to the presence of the white man. The visitations referred to were in the first place a drought of abnormal length and severity ; secondly, locusts, which do not seem to have troubled the country much in the previous quarter of a century, appeared in swarms of extraordinary magnitude ; thirdly, rinder- pest, a disease hitherto quite unknown in Southern Africa, came down from the north, destroying whole herds of cattle. With a view to checking the southward progress of this disease, the Government established a clear belt by shooting all cattle in a certain area. It was difficult for the Matabele to see the wisdom of this 8 Photo by] [G.C. Beresford, The Right Hon. Sir Starr Jameson, President of the British South Africa Co., and first Administrator of Rhodesia. 9 Photo tyl [Elliot & Fry. His Honour Sir William Milton, Administrator of Rhodesia, 1897-1914. IO HISTORICAL measure. And when, in addition to these plagues, disease broke out amongst them, the result of eating rinderpest-infected meat, their feelings were quite ready to be worked upon by the native priests. They deter- mined to rid themselves of white domination. Had they combined to attack the towns simultaneously, as it is believed was their original intention, the whole popula- tion would have been taken unawares, with results too awful to contemplate. Fortunately the natives had not sufficient self-control to carry out this scheme. The position, nevertheless, was terrible enough. The news that was brought into the towns from the outlying districts was news of the brutal and treacherous murders of isolated individuals and small parties, the number of men, women, and children thus massacred amounting in all to 141. Measures to meet the outbreak were at once taken. Laagers were formed at Bulawayo, Gwelo, and Belingwe, and numerous patrols under the leadership of Colonels W. Napier, J. Spreckley, and the Hon. Maurice Gifford, and Captains Macfarlane, George Grey, and F. C. Selous, were sent out in various directions to bring in refugees. For a time the position was desperate. The immediate difficulty was in getting food supplies, forage, arms, ammunition, and reinforcements through to a population over 500 miles away from the railway base at Vryburg, and besieged by 15,000 natives. This difficulty was very considerably augmented by the fact of the trouble coming directly after the rinderpest, which had not only destroyed the main source of the fresh meat and milk supply, on which the country depended, but also the transport system. A mule transport service therefore had to be organised. Owing to the famine in the Bechuanaland Protectorate, grain, which was requisite for these mules, was unobtainable between Mafeking and Bulawayo, and the commissariat problem was thereby made much greater. The Imperial Government des- patched reinforcements. Colonel Plumer with a force of Volunteers left Mafeking on the 12th April, and reached Bulawayo at the end of May, after a brilliant engagement II GUIDE TO RHODESIA at the Khami River. Simultaneously, a column raised in Salisbury under Colonel Beal and accompanied by Mr. Rhodes, left for the relief of Bulawayo, which was reached after much fighting. Sir R. Martin, of the Imperial Forces, arrived in Bulawayo on the 21st May, and took over command of the military operations until the arrival of General Sir F. Carrington, on 3rd June. A scheme of offensive operations was then planned and carried out, and very quickly the surrounding country was cleared of rebels, except the Matopos, the positions in which were considered impregnable. Mr. Rhodes, therefore, determined to open up negotiations with the native chiefs. He set out from Bulawayo on August 21st, and going five miles into the hills, accom- panied only by three unarmed men (Dr. Hans Sauer, Colonel Johann Colenbrander, and Mr. V. Stent) met them and held a prolonged indaba. To allay all suspicions on the part of the natives, Mr. Rhodes moved his camp to a spot close to their stronghold. Here he remained for two months conferring with them and reassuring them. On October 13th the Adminis- trator held an official indaba with the Matabele chiefs, and received their formal promises of submission. Colonel Plumer's column was consequently disbanded on the 22nd of the same month, but many of its members remained in the country as settlers. The Mashona Rebellion. Long before the restoration of peace in Matabeleland, however, trouble had appeared in Mashonaland. The first warning of rising here, which broke out in June, 1896, came when a good number of the available men and arms had gone with the Salisbury Column to the relief of Matabeleland. Laagers were at once formed in the principal centres. Mr. Justice Vintcent was at the head of affairs in Salisbury, where the number of able- bodied men was 350, with 60 police and about 250 rifles. One of the first events which followed was an unusually stirring episode—the rescue of a party of twelve, includ- 12 HISTORICAL .. ing three women, who had gathered at the Alice Mine, in the Mazoe district, 27 miles from Salisbury. In order to telegraph for assistance, two of their number heroically volunteered to go to the telegraph office. They were successful in sending their message, but were killed in trying to regain the laager. On receiving the telegram, Lieut. Judson, of the Rhodesia Horse Volunteers, left Salisbury with five men, but found the situation at the laager so desperate that he sent a message to Salisbury to say that it would require 40 men and a Maxim to effect a rescue, as the whole Mazoe valley was lined with a force of natives, some 1,000 strong ; indeed, he and his party had had to fight their way for the last ten miles to reach the laager, and had suffered a loss of one white man severely wounded and two horsés killed. Captain Nesbitt, who had gone out with 12 men to reinforce Lieut. Judson's patrol, received the message, and deter- mined, notwithstanding the smallness of his force, to push on. He succeeded in bringing out the party despite a heavy rebel fire, and for this deed was rewarded with the Victoria Cross. A small body of volunteers from Natal, under Captain Taylor, who were at Charter on their way to Matabeleland, returned to Salisbury, as did Colonel Beal's column from Bulawayo, and a body of Grey's Scouts, 75 strong, under Captain White; Salisbury being relieved on the 16th July. Large patrols were then sent out to commence offensive operations, pending the arrival of regular troops under Colonel Alderson, numbering 380, who had been sent through Beira from Natal. These reached Salisbury on August 9th, having relieved Umtali en route. Colonel Alderson remained five months in the country, and, although much hampered by shortness of supplies, effected the capture of the important chief Makoni, while he attacked and defeated Matshayangombi, who may be said to have been the leader of the Mashona rebellion. It was considered that this practically brought. the trouble to an end, and that the settlement of the country might be left to Sir Richard Martin, aided by a police force of 580 whites and a native contingent 13 GUIDE TO' RHODESIA was on numbering 100. The Imperial troops accordingly left Rhodesia on the 29th November, 1896. It soon became evident, however, that the natives were far from being subdued. Matshayangombi, recover- ing from his defeat, proceeded to re-occupy his old strongholds, and, being joined by Mkwati and Kagubi, the two chief priests of the M’limo, was able to arouse fresh courage in the Mashona tribes. All attempts to induce the rebels to surrender were futile. The Mashona- land forces were then strengthened by a detachment of Hussars and police from Matabeleland, and the country round about Salisbury, Umtali, and Charter effectually patrolled. A well-organised attack made Matshayangombi on the 24th July, 1897, in which the chief was shot, his stronghold destroyed, and his followers dispersed and disheartened. It was considered un- necessary to retain the services of the Hussars after September, a date which practically marks the close of the campaign. Consequently, the police having reached their full complement, the volunteers were disbanded. The energetic and self-reliant conduct of the settlers during the Rebellion, and the many instances of bravery, individual and general, form a record in the history of the new country of which it may well be proud. It was decided by the Company to adopt a policy of compen- sating settlers for direct losses incurred during the Rebellion ; this being the first time any Administration in South Africa had awarded compensation for injuries inflicted on its subjects in native warfare. In this way the sum of £360,000 was paid out by the Compen- sation Courts. Sir William H. Milton succeeded Earl Grey in July, 1897, as administrator. His successor—October, 1914- is Mr. F. D. Chaplin, M.L.A. for Germiston. Peace and Development. The Government later on held a number of “indabas " with representative native chiefs, in order to hear their grievances and wishes, and to explain its future policy to them. The measures subsequently adopted proved completely successful. The natives settled 14 HISTORICAL down quietly on the large reserves set apart for them and have given no further trouble. In all, 38,870 square miles of the best agricultural land in Rhodesia are devoted to native reserves, an area far more than suffi- cient for present needs. In 1912 important steps con- cerning the physical welfare and, generally, the training and development of the native population were taken, marking quite a new departure in native legislation in South Africa. In 1899 an event of some importance took place in the establishment of a Legislative Council for Southern Rhodesia, under the Southern Rhodesia Order-in-Council of 1898, which embodied new proposals of the Board of Directors of the Chartered Company, and met, to a large extent, the wish of the settlers to obtain a voice in the government of the country. Members elected by the public were included in the Council, together with a numberof members nominated by the Company, sufficient to ensure it a majority since it was responsible for the finances of the country. The elections were held in April, 1899, and the first session opened in May of that year, since when a considerable amount of legislative work has been accomplished. During the session of 1902, it was resolved that the number of members should be increased to fourteen, exclusive of the Admin- istrator and Resident Commissioner, seven of whom should be Elected and seven Nominated. This was given effect to by an Order-in-Council dated the 16th February 1903. Under a promise given by a Committee of Directors which visited Rhodesia in October, 1907, the number of Nominated Members of the Council was reduced to five. This action was subsequently ratified by an Order-in-Council of 4th May, 1911. The Council was further extended in 1914 when, at the request of the settlers, the Company agreed to increase the Elected representation to 12 members, at the same time confining the Nominated portion to six members. The Executive Council remains, before, composed of members of the Administration. For the twelve months ended March, 1914, the revenue as 15 GUIDE TO RHODESIA of the country totalled £777,000, and the expenditure £820,000, leaving a deficit of £42,000 (approximate figures.) In the war between Great Britain and the South African Republic, which broke out at the end of 1899, Rhodesia was not behind other British dependencies in coming to the assistance of the Imperial cause, both by raising forces and by providing transport, and in other ways made necessary by the peculiar circumstances of the country. Colonel Baden-Powell had been given supreme command of all the forces in Rhodesia and the Bechuanaland Protectorate, collectively called the Rhodesia Regiment, in August, 1899. After the invest- ment of Mafeking, the command of the northern wing devolved on Lieut.-Colonel Plumer, who was stationed at Tuli, which he established as his base; being com- pletely cut off from the Cape ports, as he was, Col. Plumer's only line of communication and supply lay through Rhodesia. He was without artillery, reserves of ammunition or equipment, and even money with which to pay his column. In every instance the Company came to his aid, assisting him to the utmost of its power. Indeed, the country and the settlers rose splendidly to the occasion. Some 20 per cent. of the adult male population served with the troops at the front. At the close of the campaign, the Commander-in- Chief (Lord Kitchener), sent a message to Rhodesia expressing his good wishes and thanks for the many fine contingents contributed by the country during the war. And in October, 1904, His Majesty King Edward VII. was graciously pleased to give Colours to the British South Africa Police and the Southern Rhodesia Volun- teers for the services rendered by them in the war ; these were presented at Mafeking by Lord Milner (the then High Commissioner of South Africa), on the King's behalf. Rhodesia was represented by Police and Volunteers at the coronation of King Edward at Westminster on 9th August, 1902, some being chosen to form part of I6 (1) Mr. Rhodes at World's View." (2) Rhodes's Grave (same spot). 17 GUIDE TO RHODESIA the Royal escort. The country was similarly honoured at the coronation of King George V. on the 22nd June, 1911. On this latter occasion, Rhodesia was officially represented by His Honour Sir William Milton. On March 26th, 1902, an irreparable loss befell the country which was plunged into profound sorrow by the death of its great founder and friend, Cecil John Rhodes. The mourning throughout Rhodesia for him who had devoted so great a share of his genius, his time, and wealth to developing the country, and helping it through its early troubles, was deep and sincere. He was buried with impressive and touching ceremony at a spot chosen by himself in the Matopos, his desire being that he should be laid to rest in the land of his adoption. Representatives of every class and race in the country, as well as of the Imperial authorities, and of all the Colonies of South Africa, followed him to his grave. Four years la in July, 1906, the country lost another sincere friend through the death of Mr. Alfred Beit, who had been associated with the Founder in his great ideals. In his will, besides leaving a large sum of money for railway development, Mr. Beit bequeathed a sum of £200,000 to be spent in educational and charitable purposes in Rhodesia. His executors delegated the spending of this sum to a Board of Trustees in Southern Rhodesia, who were appointed in October, 1907. Rhodesia entered the South African Customs Union in 1903, and is still a member of it ; and the country. was represented at the Convention which opened at Durban on October 12th, 1908, and led to the formation of the Union of South Africa. The Rhodesian delegates were His Honour Sir William Milton, Sir Lewis Michell (a director of the British South Africa Co.), and Sir (then Mr.) C. P. J. Coghlan, one of the elected members of the Legislative Council. The following section in the Act of Union refers to Rhodesia, being Section 150 : The King, with the advice of the Privy Council, may on addresses from the Houses of Parliament of the Union admit into the Union the territories administered by the British South Africa Company, on such terms and conditions as to 18 HISTORICAL representation and otherwise in each case as are expressed in the addresses and approved by the King, and the provisions of any Order-in-Council in that behalf shall have effect as if they had been enacted by the Parliament of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. Distinguished visitors are entertained by the country from time to time. Official visits have been paid by all recent High Commissioners of South Africa—Lord Milner, Lord Selborne, and Lord Gladstone;' and in November, 1910, H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, representing the King, and accompanied by the Duchess of Connaught and Princess Patricia, toured Rhodesia after ceremonially opening the first Union. Parliament of South Africa. The Royal party spent two weeks in the country and received an enthusiastic welcome from all classes of the community, together with testi- monies of loyalty to the Crown. An account of Northern Rhodesia is given in a sub- sequent chapter. 19 II.-PREHISTORIC RHODESIA 1.—THE FIRST HUMAN INHABITANTS. LONG centuries prior to the arrival of the present black-skinned negroid, known as the Bantu, from Central and South-eastern Africa into South Africa, the little yellow-skinned Bushmen tribes had been, and were, the aboriginal occupiers of the Rhodesian territories, in- habitating this country undisputed and undisturbed by any other section of the human family. The Bushmen were undoubtedly the first human inhabitants of Rhod- esia, In all probability their occupation dates back two or three thousand, or even more, years, and lasted until the present stronger race of Bantu arrived south of the Zambesi River about, conjecturally, fifteen hundred years ago, took possession of their land, and robbed them of their ancestral homes and hunting grounds. The Bushman race, it is held, originally spread from Western Europe, which it occupied in some past geolo- gical period. All scientific opinion seems to favour the view that it crossed the Pyrenées into Spain, and ex- tended beyond the Mediterranean into Morocco, Algeria, Oran, and Egypt, over the Sahara, past the Victoria Nyanza, and thence on through Rhodesia, the Transvaal, and the Orange Free State, to the southernmost extrem- ity of South Africa. But this movement towards the south was an exceedingly slow process, occupying such a long interval of time that the earth experienced more than one change of climate ; and some of the types of animals of the earlier times had become extinct in the later times of this migration. There is no connec- tion between the origin of the Bushmen and that of either Hottentot or Bantu. It is mainly as a race of artists and hunters that the Bushmen for all time will be best and most widely known. Their methods are fully and ideally illustrated 20 A Bushman. (Photo by permission of Miss L. C. Lloyd.) 21 sh z [Lennon, Ltd. Traced by R. N. Hall.] Bushman Paintings, Matopo Hills. (1) Plant, serpent, lion, man leaning over fire, rhinoceros, buffalo horns. · (2) Tortoise, Orchid flower and bud, butterfly, ostrich in flight, koodoo head, vulture, rhinoceros, man with load, man reclining, mother and child, man and child, koodoo head, stork, baboon drinking, stork. 22 PREHISTORIC RHODESIA by their paintings in the caves of Rhodesia—the spoor of the game, the game itself, stalking of the game, the Arrows flying in quick succession through the air, the killing of game, the carrying it away, and the feasting and the dancing. We see portrayed on the rocks in various colours their hunting scenes, their devices, and their disguises adopted to enable them to approach close to, if not actually to mix with the herd or flock. The total number of different sets of paintings, of which the locations are fixed, and of many of which some photographs and tracings have been secured by the writer, is 426, all in different parts of the country; but this number is constantly added to by fresh discoveries. One interesting feature in recent discoveries is the number of representations of the Victoria Falls, nine having so far been located. The finest specimen shows five streams of white water falling over red cliffs, and also the sides of the chasm. A cloud of whi vapour rises from the base of the Falls, and at some height above the top of the cliffs it is shown blowing off towards the west. The Bantu relate Bushmen myths and tra- ditions concerning the Victoria Falls, and have ap- propriated several of these as their own. II.-PREHISTORIC GOLD MINES. Zimbabwe is not Rhodesia's most ancient monument by many centuries. The oldest evidences of human energies ever displayed in the country, except the art of the Bushman, are to be found in rock mines sunk to depth on the gold areas of this country. The great outstanding feature of Southern Rhodesia is its extraordinary number of prehistoric gold mines, covering an area of some 500 miles by 400 miles. Every sub-district on the gold areas of Rhodesia yields evidences of millions of tons of gold-bearing rock having been mined in some prehistoric times. Rhodesia undoubtedly possesses the largest worked ancient gold fields in the world. In 1894, when less than a quarter of the present gold-mining areas had been discovered, Mr. John Hays. 23 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Hammond, a consulting mining engineer, experienced in mining, ancient and modern, in all parts of the world, and then the consulting engineer to the Chartered Com- pany, reported as follows : 1. That many of the rock mines in this country were undoubtedly ancient. 2. That the oldest rock mines showed by far the greatest skill in mining, and were the largest and deepest. 3. That there had been periods in mining, marked by lapses and sudden cessations in operations, each successive period showing a falling off in skill, in depth reached, in nature of the rock worked, and in extent of reef extracted. 4. That the skill in mining displayed on the oldest mines was beyond the capacity of any negroid or Bantu people to evolve or carry on, and was exactly as in ancient mines in Asia. 5. That from the oldest mines not only had many scores of millions of pounds worth in modern value of gold been extrac- ted, but the gold so won had been exported from the country and never used locally. 6. That Bantu people had for some centuries back down to relatively recent times mined not for gold but for iron and copper only ; but this was confined to outcrops of reefs and shallow scratchings on the surface, and showed a most crude, careless method of securing and treating the ores. In many instances the mines were sunk to water-level, beyond which the miners could not sink. Many average from 70 ft. to 140 ft. in depth, while the reefs have been hewn out at these depths for lengths of 300 ft. and 500 ft. to 1,750 ft. The Mystery Mine, for instance, shows a worked out length of 4,000 ft. at depth, while the Urangwe reef shows distinct lines of deep workings extending to 7,500 ft. Some of the shafts reach 150 ft. on the vertical, and 200 ft. on the incline. The longest adit driven by the old miners is reported as being 130 ft. on the reef; there are many which approach 100 ft. in length. In 1897, Mr. Telford Edwards, another consulting mining engineer of high repute, confirmed Mr. Hammond's findings, and, moreover, estimated that, from the num- ber, size, length, and depth, and the values of the ores 24 PREHISTORIC RHODESIA a extracted, the ancient workings had produced, on 50 per cent. reduced estimate of ores owing to the absence of modern reduction plant, gold to the present value of anything between 75 millions and 150 millions sterling Out of the 129,000 mining claims registered and current at the end of 1910, at least eleven-twelfths of the blocks were pegged on the sites of prehistoric work- ings. Ancient workings are even now continually being discovered. In 1898 Mr. Rhodes collected from Rhodesian mining engineers descriptions of the prehistoric gold workings with plans, sections, assay values of ores extracted, and methods of mining employed. This collection he took to Europe and laid before the highest known accepted authorities on ancient mining in other countries, and he was informed that the oldest and finest rock mines in Rhodesia were undoubtedly of Asiatic origin, but that later negroids were responsible for the later and cruder shallow workings and outcrop scratchings. In addition, Mr. Rhodes sent Mr. Wilmot to Rome and Dr.:Theal to Europe to prosecute researches as to the mediæval and relatively modern history of the country. Many leading scientists claim that South Arabians of the ancient kingdom of Saba, referred to so frequently in Holy Writ as so rich in gold that they purveyed it to the Phænicians, the trading intermediaries between Western Asia and Eastern Europe, were the people who exploited the Rhodesian gold reefs, and that they employed Indian labour to work the mines. The people of Saba at that time enjoyed the monopoly in navigation and trade in the Indian Ocean and its coasts, taking the treasures of all its countries to their emporium of Ophir in South Arabia. The probable connection of India with this country is a most interesting phase for consideration, a con- sideration which is believed will be pregnant of result. The Indian map of northern Zambesia, dating from the time of the Purans of the ancient Hindoos, discovered 25 GUIDE TO RHODESIA and republished by Captain Speke, is exceedingly valuable, seeing that it gives Indian names of far inland topographical features of South-east Africa extending to 15° Lat. S.—that is, south of the northern bend of the Zambesi River. Humboldt gives an account of the Cape of Good Hope, which was well known to Indian navigators as Cape Diab,“ the two waters," two centuries prior to its rediscovery by Diaz in 1486. Livingstone, Chapman, Burton, Kirk, and all autho- rities on Zambesia down to the present day, have called attention to the great number of plants, fruits, and trees of Indian habitat to be found together on the Rhodesian gold mines area. These are, of course, not indigenous to this country : the now wild Tonge manga, a cotton of Indian origin, not the Tonge cadja, which is indigenous ; also a bean, cajanus Indicus, known in India as the Doll Plant ; the Indian fig grown wild ; and a tree, matuvi, found elsewhere only in India. There is also the Mahobohobo, which has its habitat only in Southern India and Malaya. In Rhodesia, this tree is only found on the area of the prehistoric rock mines, but the vast extent of the country now covered by its forests demon- strates that it arrived in some exceedingly remote times. Being an Indian fruit tree, it was in all probability introduced by Indians. Until the last few years it was contended by many students of ancient geography and also by Biblical scholars that the modern Southern Rhodesia was the land of Ophir. These claims have now been disposed of by Dr. Keane's “ The Gold of Ophir.” To-day there is agreement in determining Ophir to have been in Southern Arabia, in the ancient kingdom of Saba (Latin) otherwise Sheba (Hebrew). But Arabia itself has produced no gold. The Sabæans obtained their gold, ivory, slaves and cynocephalous apes, and ostrich feathers, from their possessions in South-east Africa, where only they could be found in association; their scented woods, peacocks, and precious stones came from India and the Malay. Ophir, therefore, was not the source, but the distributor of this wealth. The gold of 26 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 66 Arrival of Magadoxo Arabs early in eleventh century at Sofala. Zimbabwe reputed to be very ancient ” and in ruins, the natives having no tradition as to its erection or original occupiers. In 1314 the Persians from Kilwa usurped the trade of the Arabs on the Sofala coast. Portuguese arrived and settled at Sofala, 1485. In 1560 all buildings said to be ancient most ancient,” also the rock mines. Portuguese influence in Zambesia broken in 1760. " and III.-PREHISTORIC STONE BUILDINGS, The number of ruined stone buildings in Southern Rhodesia must be at least four hundred. These may be divided according to their conjectured relative ages, and to their plan and methods of construction, into three classes : 1. Ancient ; 2. Intermediate or mediæval ; and 3. Comparatively late. Fresh discoveries of ruins are constantly being reported from all parts of the country. The area on which ruins are found is coter- minous, at every point with the area explored for gold by the prehistoric miners. In “The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia " (1898) the co-authors, Hall and Neal, stated that their examination of several scores of these stone structures, which are now only represented by ruined and buried walls, warranted them in arriving at the following conclusions : The structures were of all ages dating from some indefinite time prior to A.D. 600, down to as late as a few centuries ago, while some rudely built rampart walls of unhewn stones were barely a century old. Relatively the structures of greatest size, more elaborate plan, more perfect workmanship, yielding gold and artistic relics in profusion, and evidencing the practice of a cult of Nature worship ceremonial, were obviously the earliest type ever erected in this country. As centuries passed the art of stone building gradually became most patently decadent, gold ornaments and the artistic relic were scarce, if not absent, and the ceremonial unevidenced either in structure or emblem. Notwithstanding years of close inspection among numerous stone structures in many parts of the country, there was a 28 PREHISTORIC RHODESIA complete failure to discover any trace of rudimentary struc- tures leading up to the art, plan and workmanship displayed at Zimbabwe Temple which could in any way suggest that the cult of building was of local origin and had become locally evolved without suggestion from any outside influence. It would, therefore, appear that the art of building, the type of relic, and the ceremonial, had been originally imported from eastern Asia by those Asiatics who had already been long engaged, most probably for centuries, in exploiting the rock mines of this country for gold. This hypothesis is strengthened by the fact that both in plan, methods of con- struction, character of mural decoration, monoliths, carved stone birds, phalli, linga, conical towers, and astragali ingot- mould, Zimbabwe presents parallels to features common in ancient eastern Asia. The medium of the introduction of such art was possibly mixed, or even unskilled, people whose effort was to imitate what they had known elsewhere. After the oldest structures had become abandoned by their original builders and occupiers, and centuries after their dilapidation and partial burial in silted soil, their “ filled-in " interiors were occupied by subsequent “ squatters ” who had had no connection whatever with the original occupiers and knew nothing concerning them, being totally unaware of the lower floors and of the wealth lying buried on them. In the debris piles of these subsequent squatters can be found Nankin china, Persian pottery, and other articles of early mediæval times, but these are never found on any of the original floors of the oldest buildings. Descriptions of the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, Inyanga, Khami, Dhlo-Dhlo, etc., are given in subsequent pages. 29 III.-CLIMATE By THE REV. E. GOETZ, S.J., M.A., Director of the Bulawayo Observatory. THE Rhodesian year is made up of two seasons only : the rainy or summer season and the dry or winter season. For statistical purposes these are divided into two equal periods of six months, the rainy season being reckoned from the beginning of October to the end of March, and the dry season including the other six months. This division is convenient but not accurate, as in reality the average duration of useful rains does not cover a period of much more than five months in the greater part of Rhodesia. The “Rainy" Season. The rainy season is not a period of five or six months of continuous rain, but one in which the greater part of the yearly rain falls. During the two first months nearly all the rain comes in the form of thunderstorms, a fact which gives to the early part of the season a somewhat disappointing character, as thunderstorms are apt to be local phenomena, and more or less cap- ricious in their course. Averages show, however, that by the end of December very nearly the same amount of rain has fallen throughout the country in localities situated at about the same altitude. Up to 1909 this average was about ten inches. In the low-lying parts it is about eight inches, and in the mountainous east about 14 inches. It is lower only in the Limpopo Valley, but here there seems to be a closed area of low rainfall throughout the season. These first rains are often followed, especially in the west, by a period of three and even more weeks of dry weather. This drought, coming when the sun is at its hottest, is apt to be very injurious to crops if proper precautions are not taken to counteract its effects. The rains of the second half of the season are rather different as a rule. The thunderstorms are not so violent nor so frequent. The rains lose their local character, 30 CLIMATE and though, when they start again after an interval of dry weather, there is generally thunder in the air, they seem to continue without any manifest electrical dis- turbances. Lightning recorders show, however, that electrical discharges take place all along. These rains are apt to spread over large tracts of land and often extend over the whole of Southern Rhodesia. They are evi- dently due to the moisture-laden winds from the Indian Ocean, as a notable portion of them falls with winds ranging from S. to N.E. They diminish in intensity as we go westwards from the Indian Ocean, or rather from the ridge of high altitudes that runs more or less parallel to the coast, at some 100 miles inland. In the following table, four stations have been chosen in Mashonaland and four in Matabeleland, at increasing distances from this eastern range. They are fairly representative, Melsetter is situated on the western edge of the mountains, and Tuli in the Limpopo Valley. Rainfall averages up to 1909 (in inches). Altitude Oct. Jan. Average Percentage to to Season No. of days of the Jan. April of rain foi the season year's fall Melsetter Marandellas Salisbury Victoria Gwelo Bulawayo Tuli Tegwani feet 5,500 5,400 4,880 3,200 4,800 4,670 1,700 4,700 75 71 76 58 14.3 12.7 10.8 10.7 11.1 10.5 6.5 7.7 26.4 23.8 21.0 15.1 13.2 11.9 7.5 11.3 40.7 36.5 31.8 25.7 24:3 22.4 14.0 19.0 86 95 96 94 94 94 88 95 67 31 44 If we add an inch to the season's average we get the average rainfall for the whole year, except in the case of Melsetter where the yearly average is 45.2 in. The rainfall of Southern Rhodesia is therefore very much the same as the average rainfall in the east and centre of England, with this difference that the amount falling in Rhodesia is spread over five or six months only. 31 GUIDE TO RHODESIA It would be erroneous to conclude that the rainy season is a highly uncomfortable one, for the column of the number of rainy days shows that the number of rainless days is in every station larger than the number of days on which rain falls. There are frequent periods of fine weather during the rainy season. In some stations there have been spells of forty and even fifty days without useful rain. The discomfort which might arise from protracted rains is lessened also by the fact that little rain falls before noon. Heavy downpours, giving sometimes as much as two inches or more an hour, are not rare and may happen any year in any part of the rainy months, and in any part of the country. They are, however, more frequent and heavier the nearer we get to the coast. The “ Dry" Season. The average rainfall in the dry season is throughout the country between half an inch and an inch and a half, and the average number of days of rain below ten. There is an exception to this in the mountainous region of the east where the average fall ranges from three to five inches. There is one station, Helvetia, in the Melsetter district, where 13 inches of rain spread over 30 days, have been registered in one season. But this is only a small strip of highly favoured country. During these six or seven months, periods of four consecutive absolutely rainless months have been fairly frequent, and Hope Fountain, near Bulawayo, in 25 years has had two years with five consecutive rainless months. Shade Temperatures. Southern Rhodesia extends from the 16th to the 22nd degrees of Latitude South. It is therefore completely in the Tropics and ought to have the average climate of the Torrid Zone. Such is not the case. The mean temperature in nearly the whole of Southern Rhodesia is from 10 to 15 or more degrees lower than the sea-level temperature of this zone at the same latitudes. This reduction of the temperature is due mainly to the great altitude of the country, and partly also to the cooling 32 CLIMATE effect of the rains which fall at the time when the sun is hottest. In the eastern section of the country, along a rather narrow strip which runs parallel to the coast at some- thing like a hundred miles inland, where the altitudes range from 5,000 feet to 6,000 feet or more above sea-level, the maximum temperature rarely reaches 90 degrees. West of this ridge is the Rhodesian plateau, which runs in a north-easterly direction, from the west of Bulawayo to the east of Salisbury. On this plateau the altitudes vary from 4,000 feet to 5,000 feet. The following table of 14-year means for Bulawayo and Salisbury will give a fair idea of the temperature conditions on this plateau. Mean Temperatures.—BULAWAYO : January, 72°; Feb- ruary, 70°; March, 69:3° ; April, 664° ; May, 61.5° ; June, 57:5º; July, 57•2° ; August, 61.9° ; September, 67.6° ; October, 72:4° ; November, 72:1°; December, 71.4°; Year, 66.6°. SALISBURY: January, 69.3°; February, 67.9°; March, 67.5°; April, 64:5° ; May, 60•4° ; June, 56.9°; July, 55.9° ; August, 60•3° ; September, 65•3° ; October, 69.9°; Novem- ber, 69:9° ; December, 68.6° ; Year, 64.7°. At sea-level in the same latitude the mean temperature of the year is given in Buchan's charts as about 80. This table shows that the climate is comparatively warm in winter and not unbearably hot in summer. The maximum rarely reaches 100 degrees in the shade. On the low-lying lands towards the Limpopo or the Zambesi, and in the Sabi Valley, however, the heat is more in- tense. Here, temperatures between 100 degrees and 110 degrees are not rare. The highest recorded seems to have been 116 degrees at Kazungula on the Zambesi, near the German South-west African border. The hottest month is generally October, before the rains set in. As soon, however, as the rains have started the air cools considerably, and the first month of the rainy season is one of the pleasantest months of the year. The country which was before dried up and of a uniform brown colour is then covered by a green mantle, and the nights which had been warm and somewhat sultry for two or three weeks become cool again. 33 B GUIDE TO RHODESIA occur. Sun Temperatures. So far we have considered the temperatures in the shade only. In the direct rays of the sun the heat is, of course, intense during the summer months, especially in slightly cloudy weather, but it is never dangerously so, as may be judged from the fact that sunstrokes are unheard of. The winter months are extremely pleasant months. The air is dry, brisk, and agreeably warm in the daytime. The nights are always cool. Frosts in the daytime, even in occasionally very raw, windy, weather, never Frosts at night, especially during the hour before sunrise, occur every year on the ground from May to September. They are often very severe: tempera- tures as low as 6 degrees have been experienced in some of the valleys, but on the tableland thermometers under shelter at four feet above the ground seldom go below 32 degrees. Winds. A third important factor in the Rhodesian climate is the wind. We may say that the prevailing wind ranges from E. or E.N.E. to S.E., the whole year round. From April to October no other permanent winds occur. During the summer months, although winds from other directions are frequent during the rainy periods, easterly winds are still so frequent that they have a prevailing character. There are in fact few nights during the rainy season in which the wind is not from an easterly direction. This east or south-east wind generally brings fine, cloudless, weather. In summer it almost invariably dispels the rain in the first half of the season. In the second half, on the contrary, the east wind is often a rainy wind, but in that case it is a totally different east wind from the winter wind which is really the S.E. trade wind. When the south-easter gets unusually strong it invariably is accompanied by cold, cloudy weather which gives a kind of misty drizzle. This weather, which is, in this case, rather unpleasant, is nevertheless very bracing and certainly healthy. It rarely lasts more than three days on end. 34 IV.-PUBLIC HEALTH By A. M. FLEMING, C.M.G., M.B., F.R.C.S. (Edin.), D.PH. (Camb.), Medical Director of Southern Rhodesia. ALL things considered Southern Rhodesia may be regarded as an ideal country for the colonist, and essen- tially a country where the settler may live, move, and have his being, and, what is most important, marry and bring up a healthy family. Provided always he exer- cises that care over his bodily health and that of his dependents which the nature of the climate and the geographical position of the country demand. The Public Health Department in Southern Rhodesia consists of a senior administrative officer styled the Medical Director, who is stationed at Salisbury, an Assistant Medical Director, stationed at Bulawayo, and two whole-time medical officers, with a staff of clerks, etc. In addition, in every magisterial district there are stationed one district surgeons, who, in addition to their official duties, have the right of private practice. Government medical officers are to be found at the following places :Salisbury, Bulawayo, Umtali, Gwelo, Victoria, Hartley, Gatooma, Que-Que, Gwanda, Maran- dellas, Rusapi, Inyanga, Melsetter, Enterprise, Abercorn, Mount Darwin, Bindura, Mazoe, Sinoia, Selukwe, Umvuma, Enkeldoorn, Ndanga, Insiza, Belingwe, Inyati, and Plumtree. In connection with the Public Health Department there is in Salisbury a small clinical laboratory and Pasteur Institute where a considerable amount of work is now done and where the preparations for the treat- ment of rabies are maintained. Hospitals. With the exception of Bulawayo and Belingwe, all the general hospitals in the country are maintained by or more 35 B 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA the Government, and are under the control of the Medical Director. At Bulawayo, the Memorial Hospital, an up-to-date institution, is maintained by public subscription with a grant-in-aid from the Government, and is controlled by a Board consisting partly of members elected by subscribers and partly of Government nominees. At Belingwe, the hospital is maintained by private sub- scription collected from mines in the vicinity and by a Government grant-in-aid, the control here also being vested in a Board consisting of public and Government nominees. At Salisbury, the public medical services in connection with the local hospital, the district and magistracy, and the police are undertaken by the permanent medical staff, the members of which are whole-time officials. A new double-storeyed hospital for Europeans has recently been erected in one of the highest parts of the town, and is one of the most up-to-date institutions for its size in South Africa. Accommodation is provided for 62 in-patients, including private wards. The hospital at Umtali is situated on a hill over- looking the town and has accommodation for 22 Euro- pean and 10 native patients. The district surgeon is in medical charge, and the nursing staff consists of a matron and four nurses. The Gwelo hospital is a new building, only recently completed and occupied. The European section consists of two general and two private wards with the usual administrative offices. This is a very complete hospital in every way and has accommodation for 24 European patients. The medical officer in charge is also district surgeon, and the nursing staff consists of a matron and three nurses. Situated as it is, this little hospital largely supplies the needs of the midland portion of the territory. Hartley being the centre of a large mining industry, the hospital there has greater accommodation for native patients than for Europeans, native patients being sent in from all the many surrounding mines. The European 36 PUBLIC HEALTH section, however, is a separate brick building consisting of two general and two private wards and the usual offices. The district surgeon is also hospital surgeon and there is a staff of a matron and three nurses. Accommodation is provided for 16 European and 60 native patients. Victoria Hospital has only been recently added to, and now contains 12 European and 6 native beds. There is one general ward and two private wards. Here also the hospital is under the medical care of the district surgeon ; the nursing staff consists of a matron and two nurses. At Gwanda, Abercorn, Sinoia, Mazoe, and Enkel- doorn are small cottage hospitals also maintained by the Government. These little institutions have each accommodation for about eight European patients, and are attended by the local Government medical officer, with a nurse-matron in charge. Persons unable to defray the cost of their mainten- ance in Government hospitals are at all times admitted to the general wards free of charge, provided they are suitable cases. In addition, private patients are admitted who pay a maintenance fee varying from 10s. to 20s. a day according to the class of accommodation provided. The lunatic asylum of Ingutsheni, on the outskirts of Bulawayo, is pleasantly situated in its own grounds. It is quite a small institution and has only recently been built. It has separate provision for 20 European and 80 native lunatics. General Hints. The most suitable clothing for the greater part of the year is what is known as light summer in more temperate climes. A helmet is always advisable, and in the hotter months thin Indian clothing such as tussore, linen, or cotton is comfortable. It must not be forgot- ten, however, that in the winter at this altitude it is frequently very cold, and warm wraps are then re- quired. 37 GUIDE TO RHODESIA In highly civilised portions of this globe the diseases to be guarded against are many, but in Rhodesia, with its wide, open plains and absence of overcrowding, it may be reduced to the single aphorism— Avoid malaria ” ; for it must be admitted that to-day and for many years to come Rhodesia as a country must be considered a malarial one. In the early days of the occupation few if any of the settlers escaped fever, but things fortunately are better to-day. The malaria is almost entirely confined now to the rural population and to persons whose occupations take them into the districts during the summer and spring months of the year. With few exceptions urban areas are singularly free, and town residents rarely suffer from malaria. In order to circulate information as widely as possible and to bring home to the settlers the necessity for guarding their health, pamphlets dealing with the causes of malaria and the precautions to be adopted for its prevention are issued by the Government to all visitors and settlers ; this more especially applies to farmers and others resident outside municipal areas and town- ships. Typhoid fever and dysentery do exist here as in other parts of the sub-continent, and it is strongly recommended that all water and milk be boiled unless it is known to be above suspicion, and this especially applies to those travelling by rail or road. Diseases common to older civilisations, and associated with density of population, unemployment, and insanitary conditions of life, are in no way prevalent, and the mortality and sickness rates of the resident population are low. Children on the whole thrive in Southern Rhodesia, the average height, weight, and general development being in advance of that of many more settled communities. 38 Photo by] [F. C. Bellamy, Salisbury. Photo byl (Smart & Copley, Bulawayo. V Hospitals at (1) Salisbury, (2) Bulawayo, (3) Sinoia, (4) Globe and Phoenix Mine (for natives). 39 Rock Scenery: (1) and (2) In the Matopo Hills. (3) Near Macheke. 40 V.-GEOLOGY By H. B. MAUFE, B.A. (Cantab.), F.G.S., Director of the Geological Survey. In its geological structure Southern Rhodesia falls naturally into two great divisions (1) the ancient metamorphic rocks, which have been invaded by granite and other intrusive rocks, and contain all the gold reefs of the territory, and (2) the later sediments and lavas, including the coal measures and the basalts of the Victoria Falls. The rocks of the first division underlie the whole country ; they are its foundation, and as far as we know they belong to the most ancient system (Archæan) in the sub-continent. Actually, these ancient rocks appear at the surface over the larger part of the territory, forming all the high veld and much of the lower-lying districts towards the Zambesi and Limpopo rivers. The story of how they came to have their present characters and their mineral wealth is a long one, and is far from being unravelled. They have been folded and crumpled, and also injected by immense quantities of molten granite, which must have solidified at great depths below the surface. Everywhere these ancient rocks bear evidence of having been buried in some remote period at great depths. Afterwards a widespread upheaval raised the country to a high altitude, and a long period of denudation supervened, when many hundreds of feet of rock were removed, and beds formerly deeply buried were laid bare at the surface. The rocks belonging to the second great division are sedimentary beds, for the most part laid down in one or more lakes which covered the country at this period. The larger and better-known portion belongs to the Karoo System, having at its base the coal beds from which the Wankie coal is obtained. The close of this period was marked by great outpourings of basaltic 41 GUIDE TO RHODESIA lava, which in some parts of the country attained a great thickness. The gorge of the Zambesi River below the Victoria Falls is cut down through these basalts. The gap in the geological succession between the Karoo formation and the ancient metamorphic rocks is an immense one. In South Africa the gap is partly filled by three or four different systems. It is possible that one of these systems, the Waterberg, is represented in Rhodesia by some indurated shales and sandstones, which sometimes contain copper ores, as at Umkondo, in the Sabi valley. Again, in the lower portion of the Zambesi valley loosely consolidated sandstones are reported to overlie the basalt lavas. Whether these beds belong to the Karoo system or whether they represent a later formation is another problem awaiting an answer. The crustal movements which took place after the deposition of these sedimentary beds were mainly due to faults, which sometimes let down tracts of the Karoo beds into the older and harder rocks, thus protecting the former from erosion. Owing to the rarity of folding the Karoo beds still preserve their horizontal position, or are but slightly tilted from it. At the same time, these sedimentary beds have suffered extensive denudation. There is no evidence that after their deposition the land was ever submerged beneath the sea. On the contrary, wide tracts were stripped of their covering of Karoo beds, and the ancient metamorphic rocks once more laid bare at the surface. The stripping of the sediments is proved by the pre- servation of small patches of sandstone, now separated by miles of granite and metamorphic rocks from the main sedimentary areas. Such witnesses to denudation are Thaba's Induna, and the Forest Vale kopje on the edge of the Bulawayo commonage. They show that the sandstone of Pasipas and Shiloh once covered the site of Bulawayo and probably spread far to the south of it. During this long period of denudation extensive nges must have been brought about in the phy- siography of the territory, largely as a direct consequence 42 GEOLOGY of erosion, but partly the result of slow movements of the crust. To some part of this period belong the diamond-bearing gravels of Somabula, for they appear to be relics of an ancient river-system which has now disappeared. Having recounted in brief outline the geological history of the country, we may add a table of the for- mations, and then turn to some details which present points of general interest. TABLE OF FORMATIONS. Superficial deposits (Alluvium, Laterite, etc.) Recent Somabula Gravels ? Tertiary. Unconformity here. ? Sandstones Basalt lavas of Batoka, Tuli, and Sabi Forest Sandstones Escarpment Grits Karoo Madumabisa Shales Upper Wankie Sandstone, System. Fireclay Coal Shales... Lower Wankie Sandstone ... Unconformity here. S ? Waterberg Sandstones and Shales **7 System. Great Unconformity here. Grit and Conglomerate with Limestones in Lomagundi Banded Ironstone with Phyllite and Limestone Archæan. Greenstone and Greenstone Schist, including Epidiorite INTRUSIVE ROCKS. Intrusive into Karoo and older Dolerite Dykes and Sills rocks. Norite, Serpentine, etc. (The Great Dyke) Felsite and Porphyry Intrusive into Archæan rocks. Granite and Gneiss Serpentine and Talc-Schist... The granite appears in two forms, massive or gneissic. The gneissic granite usually forms a rolling bush-covered country of low relief, whilst the massive granite builds castle and ball kopjes, which form such charac- teristic features of the scenery, and of which no better example can be given than the Matopo Hills. It generally occurs in huge masses ten to thirty or more miles across. These masses are separated from one another by relatively narrow schist-belts," which widen and contract along their course. The Archæan >> 66 >> 43 GUIDE TO RHODESIA rocks composing these belts generally dip at high angles away from the granite as if they had been tilted when the granite rose into position. They are divisible into three groups as shown in the table above. The green- stone schists are a widely distributed group of dark-green igneous rocks, from which most of the fertile bright red soils are derived. The town of Bulawayo is built upon this group. The well-known and easily recognised banded ironstone crops out in the 6 schist-belts” in long narrow belts, and characteristically forms tree- clad, sharp-crested ridges or conical hills. Salisbury and Gwelo Kopjes may be quoted as examples. Grits and conglomerates occur in Lomagundi, and similar rocks occupy a large area in the Mazoe valley extending into Abercorn beyond the Shamva Mine. Mineral Contents. Two important series of igneous rocks are intruded into the above three groups. The older of these, con- sisting chiefly of serpentine and talc-schist, is the home of the chief deposits of chrome ore at Selukwe, and of asbestos in the Mashaba Hills, Victoria. The later series of intrusions is composed of siliceous igneous rocks, such as felsite and porphyry. These rocks are impor- tant to the prospector on account of the frequent occurrence of gold reefs in their neighbourhood. The wide distribution of gold reefs in Rhodesia is very well known. They are found in every one of the above five groups of rocks and occasionally in the granite In spite of the great diversity in their appear- ance and mode of occurrence, the greater number fall into one or two groups. The gold ore is either a quartz vein filling a fissure which has opened in the rocks, or else a “schist-reef” formed by the precipitation of gold or gold-bearing minerals from solutions which have ascended through fissures and impregnated the rocks. Both kinds of reef are frequently found in or near the felsites. The Great Dyke is a unique feature in the geology of Southern Rhodesia. It is a belt of igneous rock masses. 44 GEOLOGY about four miles across which has risen up through the Archæan rocks in almost a straight line for a distance of no less than three hundred miles. It consists of ultra-basic rocks, such as serpentine and norite, which frequently rise up into a bold range of hills. It forms the Umvukwe Hills in the north, is crossed by the main railway line east of Makwiro, by the Umvuma line at Lalapanzi, and forms the Selundi Range situated to the east of Selukwe, and the Doro Hills in Belingwe. Turning to the younger rocks we may note that Southern Rhodesia is rich in coal, having fields contain- ing coal of workable quality in the Wankie, Sebungwe, Mafungabusi, and Lomagundi districts in the north, and in the Tuli and eastern part of the Victoria districts in the south. The Wankie field is the only one producing at present. The seam mined is over 13 feet in thickness, and is the best steam-coal in the sub-continent. The Victoria Falls. We may conclude with a reference to the geological aspects of the Victoria Falls. First of all, the rocks through which the four hundred feet deep gorge is cut are black basalt, occurring in horizontal flows, each about 100 feet in thickness. These lava flows were poured out in a molten state one after another about the end of the Karoo period, and altogether spread over an immense tract of country about the locality where the Falls are now. That these basalts solidified from a molten condition is shown not only by microscopical examination, but also by the fact that the base, and more especially the top, of each flow is a slag full of round or almond-shaped holes formed by steam and gases escaping from the lava as it solidified. The steam- holes are often filled with green, pink, or white minerals (zeolites). This slaggy basalt may be seen beside the path from the railway station to the bridge, and by going a little way down the gorge in front of the hotel one can see that the walls of the gorge are here built up of four or five lava flows. The compact centre of each flow makes a vertical cliff with smooth-faced joints, 45 GUIDE TO RHODESIA whilst the slaggy top, in conjunction with the slaggy base of the overlying flow, being softer, weathers back and gives the vegetation a chance to get a foothold. The chief cause of the extraordinary windings of the gorge is the strong development of a system of joints cracking the rocks at regular intervals in an east and west direction ; and in addition the presence of parallel fissures filled with broken rock and vein-minerals, chiefly calcite and chalcedony. These fissures natural lines of weakness, which are easily eroded by the river and assist it to undermine the harder basalt. are 46 VI.- MINING 1.–GENERAL DESCRIPTION, by W. W. JENKINS, Secretary, Rhodesia Chamber of Mines. MINING in Rhodesia is carried on under licence from the British South Africa Company, the owners of the mineral rights by virtue of the Rudd Concession. At- tention was first directed to the territory as a possible gold-producer by traders in the seventies and early eighties. The widely scattered signs of the exploitation, in some remote epoch, of the mineral resources of the country attracted a large number of concession hunters from all parts of the world, from 1880 onwards. The terms under which the Company permits the acquisition of mineral rights are incorporated in the Mines and Minerals Ordinance of 1903. Under this law a prospector may obtain a gold prospecting licence for the sum of £1, which entitles him to peg off a rect- angular block of ground, 1,500 feet along the strike of the reef and 600 feet on its dip, being 10 claims in all. He is entitled to follow the reef discovered on his claims outside the vertical limits of the side lines of his block. After registration of the block, development conditions become operative. Thirty feet of work must be accom- plished on the claims within a period of six months of registration. Within the next succeeding six months a further thirty feet of work must be done, or, alterna- tively, £15 paid in lieu thereof. For every year succeeding, beginning from the date of registration, sixty feet of work must be accomplished in order to protect the block from forfeiture. The terms of acquisition of a block of ground to pro- spect or work base metals are somewhat similar, but the area which may be pegged is three times the size of that obtainable under a £l gold prospecting licence; and no extra lateral rights attach to base metal locations. When the holder of a block of claims desires to work 47 GUIDE TO RHODESIA :> them for profit he may arrange terms of flotation with the British South Africa Company, or work them under a Royalty scale. The terms for commutation of the Company's share in the products of the mine usually amount to a levy of 30 per cent. of the price paid to the vendor on flotation. The following scales now prevail : ROYALTIES ON GOLD OUTPUTS. (1) On a monthly output of not more than £200 Nil. (2) On a monthly output of from £200 to £3,000 2} per cent. (3) On a monthly output of over £3,000 5 (4) If the output be over £3,000 in value and be the product of ore yielding more than one ounce per ton ... (5) If the total value exceeds £3,000 and be the product of not less than 5,000 tons of ore yielding a not greater value than 22s. per ton 35 (6) if the total value exceeds £3,000, and be the product of not less than 10,000 tons of ore yielding a not greater value than 16s. per ton 21 ON BASE METALS. Of gross product. Bismuth, Cobalt, Copper, Mercury, Molyb- denum, Nickel, Thorium, Tin, Tung- sten, Scheelite, Uranium, Vanadium, Mineral Oils, Natural Gas, Salts 3 per cent. Aluminium, Antimony, Asbestos, Barium, Strontium, Chrome, Graphite, Gypsum, Iron, Lead, Magnesite, Manganese, Mica, Zinc 2 Precious stones and diamonds are worked under terms to be arranged. The De Beers Consolidated Mines, Limited, hold the right to work all diamonds found in the territories controlled by the British South Africa Company. Permits to prospect for diamonds may be issued by the latter to approved persons. Should a 48 The Shamva Mine : (1) Main workings in face of Shamya Hill. (2) Native employés' compound. 49 Rhodesian Mines : (1) Globe and Phænix. (2) Lonely. (3) Giant. (4) Old Nic. 50 MINING diamond pipe be found, the discoverer may be called upon to relinquish it on payment to him of “ compen- sation ” amounting to £2,500. Alluvial diamond washing is carried on to a small extent in the Somabula area. The returns of diamonds produced to date will be found below. The stones were chiefly derived from the allu- vial areas in Somabula by the South African Option Syndicate, working under terms agreed upon with De Beers. This same syndicate is engaged in prospecting a formation, said to be similar to the Kimberley diamond pipes, in the Bembesi district, some few miles west of Lochard siding, between Bembesi and Shangani, on the Bulawayo-Salisbury railway. For mining purposes the territory of Southern Rho- desia is divided up into eight districts—viz., Bulawayo, Gwelo, Hartley, Lomagundi, Mazoe, Salisbury, Umtali, and Victoria. The largest of these is Bulawayo. It stretches from the Zambesi River to the Limpopo, and from the Bechuanaland Border on the west to the Shan- gani River, and contains many ancient workings. The principal gold belts are: To the south, the Essexvale, Fila- busi, Gwanda, and Ramaquabane; to the south-east, the Belingwe; to the north-east and west, the Shangani, Insiza, Bembesi, and Bubi; the coalfields of Wankie are also in this area. The Bulawayo Mining District came in for a very large share of attention during the early prospecting days, and some idea of its im- portance may be gauged from the fact that within the last few years one of the finest and most pro- mising mines in the country—the Lonely—has been discovered, opened up, and brought to the dividend- paying stage. In the Essexvale district is situated the Bushtick Mine, which is now producing a tonnage of about 6,000 tons per month of ore worth under £1 per ton in value. Many small workers are engaged in the Gwanda, Filabusi, and Belingwe districts. In the Bembesi-Bubi areas are found the Lonely, Queen's, and many other mines. In the Shangani-Insiza district the principal mines are the Nelly, Eagle, and New Eclipse, all of which are 51 GUIDE TO RHODESIA working to profit at the present time. In the far southern Gwanda district the Antelope Gold Mine (Rhodesia), Ltd., has opened up a large body of payable ore; and crushing operations were commenced at the end of 1913. Wolframite has been produced from the Essexvale area. The Gwelo district comprises that part of Matabele- land which is not included in the Bulawayo district, and it produces the largest amount of gold ; in it are also situated the chrome iron ore deposits, from which about 60,000 tons of ore are shipped to Europe every year, and also the Somabula diamond areas. The principal gold belts in the district are the Que-Que, in which are situated such important mines as the Globe and Phoenix, Bell, and Gaika, and the Selukwe gold belt which includes the Wanderer, Yankee Doodle, and many other mines. On the Umvuma gold belt are situated the Falcon, Athens, and Beacon Hill mines; while the Lower Gwelo belt includes the Gothic and Pagamesa mines. The Hartley district is on the line of railway north of Gwelo and south of Salisbury. It contains some mines of importance from the company point of view, e.g., the Giant at Gadzema, the Eiffel Blue, Eileen Alannah, Cam and Motor, and New Found Out; but it came into notice chiefly by reason of the fact that it is the district where the small worker and tributor sprang into prominence as a producer. The larger mines, which have in recent years been opened up and developed, notably the Cam and Motor and Eileen Alannah, owe their discovery and present satisfactory position entirely to the enterprise of this class of producer. A large amount of capital has within recent years been ventured in small enterprises there, and, it may be said on the whole, with more than in any other district: At Hartley is the Mining Commissioner's office for the district, which includes the Gatooma, Shagari, Concession, and Eiffel Flats gold belts. The headquarters of the Lomagundi district is Sinoia, but the Mining Commissioner's office is in Salisbury. success 52 MINING The principal mines are the Eldorado, which has been a regular producer and dividend payer for many years past, and the Golden Kopje, which is being developed by the Golden Kopje Proprietary Mines, Ltd., a sub- sidiary of the Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co., Ltd. The sands of the Angwa and other rivers in the district have yielded small quantities of alluvial gold, and they keep a few diggers at work during the dry season. The importance of the Mazoe and Salisbury districts may be realised more from the fact that they contain the Shamva, Planet-Arcturus, and Kimberley mines than from the figures regarding the output. The mines now being developed there and on which reduction plants are being erected bid fair, at a not far-distant date, to place the districts in the very front rank of those producing The Umtali district contains the Rezende and Pen- halonga mines, in the Penhalonga Valley. For many years past these have been consistent producers, while a large number of small propositions have been success- fully worked by individuals. A number of the ores found in this district contain lead and silver in some quantities, practically half of the silver output, and the whole of the lead yield of the country being produced at present by the Rezende group of mines. Although the Victoria district was the scene of the first prospecting efforts in this country, no mine of permanent producing capacity has yet been opened up there. The Texas, near Victoria, was the first producer of gold in the Chartered Company's territory. Very sanguine hopes as to the possibilities of the district are held by some, but by reason of its remoteness from the railway—a drawback, however, which has now been removed—no proper opening up of the many reefs and ancient workings which abound there has yet been undertaken on a large scale. Tin ore of some value was discovered in 1910, but its working has not been proceeded with pending the advent of the railway and with it more economical mining conditions. 53 GUIDE TO RHODESIA The gold production of each district for the years 1912 and 1913 was as follows : District 1912 1913 Bulawayo Gwelo Hartley Lomagundi Mazoe Salisbury Umtali Victoria £ 650,832 831,309 637,391 238,630 123,021 29,937 195,707 542 £ 780,928 901,578 638,794 200,876 134,603 32,663 198,989 14,837 :::: £2,707,369 £2,903,268 The chrome iron deposits of the Rhodesia Chrome Mines, Ltd., rank next in importance to the gold mines as mineral producers. The output for the year 1913 was 63,383 tons, valued at £141,482. Some ten or more large bodies of chromite are being worked. The mineral is quarried in open cuts on the summit and slopes of a hill and is transported by rail to Beira for export. Practically the whole of the asbestos which has been produced to date has emanated from the quarries of the Rhodesia Asbestos Company, which are situated at the north-western end of the Mashaba range of mountains, some 26 miles west of Victoria, and three or four miles south of the Selukwe-Victoria road. The mineral is described as a fibrous form of serpentine widely known as chrysotile asbestos,” and is similar to Canadian asbestos known by that name. The King's Asbestos Company has recently been formed to acquire a deposit formerly worked on a small scale on which encouraging reports have been received. The amount of the mineral produced in 1913 was 290 tons, valued at £5,224. 66 54 MINING The coal production from the Wankie Colliery shows a steady increase, and the owning company is a regular dividend payer. Over one million and a half tons have been raised since the commencement of production, and the sales have totalled over £680,000. The output and sales for the past three years have been as follow :- Tons. 1911 212,529 £92,193 1912 216,140 £73,267 1913 243,328 £78,421 The price of coal has been considerably reduced during recent years, while the colliery is also producing coke in some quantity for shipment to the copper mines in Northern Rhodesia and the Katanga (Belgian Congo). The following comparative tables give the grand total production of gold, diamonds and all other metals and minerals for the years 1912 and 1913, and to date : Comparative Table of Gold and other Metals and Mineral Output. 1912 1913 Quantity Value Quantity Value £ 642,807 2,707,369 176,532 20,010 588 9,253 689,954 142,390 327 2,903,268 15,105 5,234 Gold OZ. Silver Lead tons Chrome Iron Tungsten Asbestos Coa) Diamonds cts. 69,260 1 154,600 100 63,384 141,482 427 5,224 *78,421 7,781 > 216,140 587 290 243,328 998 *73,267 2,348 £2,966,947 £3,156,942 * Value of coal actually sold. 55 GUIDE TO RHODESIA OZ. 9 There are, Grand Total Gold and other Metal and Mineral Output from Southern Rhodesia to 31st December, 1913. Quantity. Value. £ Gold 6,403,415 25,281,965 Silver 1,715,432 188,770 Lead tons 6,895 91,743 Copper 359 23,058 Chrome Iron 279,651 639,466 Tungsten 129 11,624 Antimony 14 275 Asbestos 1,409 18,216 Coal 1,609,687 *681,648 Diamonds cts. · 9,558 42,024 Other Precious Stones 90,069 8,246 £26,987,035 * Value of coal actually sold. The most important copper mines of Rhodesia are situated to the north of the River Zambesi. however, some few deposits in Southern Rhodesia undergoing development, but more favourable economic conditions are awaited before a commencement will be made with productive operations. The principal of these is the Umkondo in the Victoria district, where 90,000 tons of 8 per cent. ore have been opened up, the length of the pay ore being 400 feet. At the Falcon Mine in the Umvuma district a large body of gold-copper ore is being opened up and a reduction plant was expected to be in full operation in 1914. In the Lomagundi district at the Alaska Mine, where very considerable ancient workings exist, a deposit of cuprite and native copper has been opened up. The majority of the copper shown on the output sheets was produced from the complex gold-copper ore of the old Valley Mine in the Gwanda district, being shipped in the form of matte to Europe for treatment. 2.-THE “SMALLWORKER,” by R. W. PRINGLE. A great many small mineral deposits have been discovered in Rhodesia, and individual men or small 56 Rhodesian Mines : (1) Wankie Colliery. (2) Rezende Mines, Penhalonga Section (gold, silver and lead). 57 31 MUSET! Rhodesian Mines : (1) Chrome iron, Selukwe. (2) and (3) Bushtick, showing (1) General vien, (2) Native hospital, store, and compound. 58 GUIDE TO RHODESIA over the first few months, when, as is often the case, it is all expenditure and no return. Unlike most gravel deposits, these do not occur in the valleys and water- courses, but are found as continuous layers of varying thicknesses over large areas, and often up the sides of the hilly ground bounding the valleys or vleis. Associ- ated with these rubble deposits are the outcrops of veins folded over and lying almost flat; while again there appear to be occasional flat or undulating blanket veins mixed with the rubble but not apparently con- nected with any definite fissure. The rubble is always near the surface, and can be cheaply quarried and con- veyed either in barrows by natives or in Scotch carts drawn by oxen to the mill, where it is easily reduced. The native labour question is a constant source of difficulty and worry, as it is in South Africa generally, and in other parts of the world. Wages vary from 15s. to £2, and, for exceptional jobs, to as high as £5 per month. A labour fee of one shilling per head per month is charged by Government. Food, housing, and medical attendance can be put down at, at least, sixpence per head per day. The smallworker cannot afford a large white staff, but is generally willing to pay well for the assistance he requires. Although there are many men out of employment in Rhodesia, efficient and reliable labour is scarce. Time and the better class of men now entering the country will doubtless remedy this. Wood is the almost universal fuel, but in a few years' time its scarcity will compel workers to introduce less wasteful methods of consumption, such as suction gas plants running upon charcoal, in place of the locomotive type of boiler now in almost universal use. Water for milling can usually be obtained in sufficient quantities from the mine. There are few made roads. In the dry season transport of material is by ox-wagon. Mealie meal is still the staple article of diet for the natives, and when the grass gives out at the end of the season the cattle must also be fed on it. Hay can still be had for the cutting, and should be cut and stacked by the end of April or the middle of May. 60 MINING Without exception, practically, the smallworker in Rhodesia is dealing with gold, and a mine capable of supporting a ten-stamp mill may generally be said to be outside the sphere of his operations. As for his plant, the smallworker has to find a type that is easy to erect, cap- able of being easily transported, requiring simple founda- tions, and suitable for the somewhat inexperienced labour available. The Tremain stamp mill, an adaptation of the great steam stamps used for crushing copper ore in the Lake Superior district, seems to supply the required article. It is capable of treating about eight tons of quartz or 12 of rubble per 24 hours. It is, however, very waste- ful in steam consumption, requiring a 12 h.p. boiler almost to itself, and gives poor amalgamation results owing to the difficulty of keeping the plates free from oil. With its many faults, it has, however, laid the foundations of many a small fortune in Rhodesia. The tendency now appears to be in favour of a two, three, or five-stamp gravity mill, or possibly one of the new Nissen mills. Another plant which has proved a boon to the smallworker is the cyanide plant consisting of galvanised iron tanks. These rendered cyaniding possible where steel or wooden tanks would have made the cost prohibitive. A typical smallworker's outfit would consist of a Tremain mill, a 16 h.p. locomotive boiler burning wood, a small hoist, boiler feed pump, return water pump, sinking pump for underground, and the usual piping, tools, tanks, etc. His buildings and headgear will be of native timber, preferably some ant and borer-resisting wood, thatched roofs except the boiler house, which will have an iron roof; and, if he treats his sands, treatment tanks, two sump tanks, extractor box, circulating pump, and the usual piping, etc. The native labourers are housed in pole and daga huts, with grass roofs, and the white men usually in similar huts. Such a plant can be erected for from £1,000 to £1,500. Costs vary so with the particular conditions that they cannot be given. 61 VII.-FARMING Notes by DR. ERIC NOBBS, Director of Agriculture for Southern Rhodesia; H. GODFREY MUNDY, F.L.S., Agriculturist ; and J. A. T. WALTERS, B.A., Assistant Agriculturist. BULALIMA-MANGWE DISTRICT. THERE are, according to the records of the Agricultural Department, some 68 occupied farms in this district. Newcomers are from time to time taking up farms, but it is also a noteworthy fact that lately several farmers have disposed of their improved properties and gone further inland, to repeat the process of taming the wilderness. The farmers of Bulalima meet together at three centres—Plumtree, Figtree, and Marula- to discuss matters of moment and to make their views known through the medium of Farmers' Associations. The region is almost exclusively granitic, the soils being correspondingly formed of sand of varying degrees of fineness, looser and poorer on the ridges, more com- pact, damper, deeper, and richer in the hollows, where a certain amount of vegetable mould has gathered to improve it. To the western side red shales occur in small amounts, giving rise to a darker and generally more fertile soil, but these areas are of limited extent. As is usual in a granite country, opportunities for storing water are rather infrequent in this district, but service- able dams have been made on the farms Kensington and Lydeard, the latter 400 yards long and throwing the water back for some 1,200 yards; and others are being constructed. The scarcity of water restricts cropping to the rainy season, but the nearness to the main trunk line and to the market of Bulawayo renders the culture of certain crops profitable, so that more attention is paid to this side of the farming industry than otherwise would be the case. 62 FARMING A striking instance of intensive farming—that is, of turning to the utmost account a certain area of ground and expending much capital per acre upon it—is to be seen near Syringa, where Mr. Paterson is growing vegetables for distant markets and sending stuff away to Kimberley and Bulawayo. This is, however, an exceptional case ; the average farmers are devoting all their energies to mealies and stock, and most to the latter. Cattle do well, are healthy, grow out to a good size and multiply rapidly ; indeed, the sales at Plumtree are a recognised mart for good stock. On such a high- lying exposed region as this is, however, the cold dry season is severely felt, and stock is often sent elsewhere to winter. Otherwise it is apt to fall off very much in condition. Another farm of exceptional interest is Sandown, or, more properly speaking, Edenvale, Stretton, and Wilton, the property of Messrs. Cooper & Nephews, the world- renowned manufacturers of sheep dip and cattle dip. The farm, which is near to the railway siding of that name and on the south of the line, is now under the manage- ment of Mr. Hargreaves, and, besides ordinary farming operations, a certain amount of work of an experimental nature has been carried on, as might in the circum- stances be anticipated. Over 40 acres of velvet beans were grown last season and manna hay has done well. Numbers of heifers have been introduced from the Bedford and Cradock districts of the Cape Province, which, with superior bulls, should prove a benefit both to their owners and the district. Hay has been syste- matically cut and made here for years past, with the most satisfactory results. To the south of the line, near Figtree Station, Mr. W. F. White is farming very successfully, and has been since 1895, with cattle and, marvellous to relate, with horses, which as a rule are such a questionable venture on account of horse-sickness. About half the foals reach maturity, which is a big percentage for this country. Mr. White runs a large herd of cattle, includ- 63 GUIDE TO RHODESIA ing particularly good Africanders, of which young bulls are from time to time available for disposal. North of the line and to the west several new farms are in process of being taken up. Cattle are the mainstay, but most farms have their quota of mealie lands, with vegetable garden and fruit orchard (especially oranges and bananas). The chief needs are storage of water and provision of hay or other feed for winter. THE HARTLEY DISTRICT. The most recent statistics place the number of farmers (plot holders not included) in this district at about ninety. Four Farmers' Associations are to be found, one, the oldest established, at Hartley, and three, more recently formed, at Gatooma, Makwiro, and Norton respectively. The distribution of these centres may be taken as a rough guide to the present settlement of the district. Several rivers, large for Rhodesia, intersect Hartley District, running for the most part from east to west, and thus indicating the general lie of the country. Good irrigation schemes can be obtained by pumping water from the pools in rivers on to land along the river banks. Possibilities of this sort of irrigation are to be found on several farms. Bore holes under favourable conditions could probably be used for irrigating small acreages. Unlike many other districts, in Hartley most of the best land is bush-covered and cannot be brought under the plough without a great deal of labour and considerable expense in clearing and stumping. A second and more serious disadvantage under which the district labours is the presence of tsetse fly in certain localities. The 'fly,' however, is rarely seen except about the upper Suri-Suri basin, and even there the numbers are very small. During the past five years the “fly' has de- creased greatly in numbers. The soils of Hartley District are many and varied, and may be said to embrace all types, with the excep- tion of those derived from sandstone, found elsewhere 64 Rhodesian Cattle Scenes : (3) Cattle sale, Gwelo Stockyards. 65 С Rhodesian Farm Scenes. 66 FARMING in Southern Rhodesia. Heavy black vlei soil is abundant in the Makwiro section, and to a more limited extent in the vicinity of Concession Hill and the Eiffel Flats. Granite sand veld is to be found in the extreme south, east, west, and north of the district, and also in the neighbourhood of Gadzema, while red loam soils, in belts of varying magnitude, intersect the district in all directions. Hartley is thus essentially well suited to mixed farming, and its prospects as a dairying centre are of the best. The number of breeding cattle is approximately twenty head per occupied farm, or in all about 1,700. The draught oxen, including yearlings and two-year-olds, number approximately 2,400. Horses, mules, and donkeys are not owned in any large numbers ; and the character of the veld does not at present lend itself well to sheep farming. There_appear to be only approximately 1,100 head of European-owned sheep and goats. Maize growing is by far the most important side of arable farming. Tobacco is mainly grown in the sand veld section around Norton Siding and Makwiro. The northern part of the district contains much excellent tobacco soil. In the south-east also granite formation appears, and here again suitable tobacco soil can be found, though in most cases preparatory clearing and stumping will be necessary. The production of sweet potatoes and beans is in- creasing. The American variety of sweet potato, recently introduced, produces a tuber much superior to the native one. The ordinary potato is not grown very widely, and there is scope for an increased acreage, as also for ground nuts, which might be grown to advan- tage on the sand veld farms around Norton and Makwiro. Greater attention is now being devoted to winter wheat and oats. On heavy black soils oats grow extremely well. Where water for irrigation is available most farmers have small vegetable gardens, and in many cases these have proved extremely profitable. Mr. 67 C2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Woodforde has been able to do the most on these lines. In addition to producing, he has opened a depot in Gatooma where not only his own vegetables but those of other farmers can be sold. Tomatoes form one of the most important vegetable crops and thrive extra- ordinarily well. Mangels, linseed, velvet beans, and manna are grown on small acreages by a few farmers, but the total is insignificant except to prove the possi- bilities of such crops. A sign of progress is the large quantity of hay which has been cut and cured during recent seasons. The making of hay is the first step in the realisation of the importance of winter feeding. The next is an appreciation of the fact that succulent food is also needed, and given this the making of silage or the growing of root crops will become equally general. Several farmers are now preparing to plant citrus trees on a large scale, and there is no doubt that where water is available for irrigation no sounder farming proposition could be considered. The climate is emi- nently suited to citrus fruits, and the presence of so much timber facilitates the selection of orchard sites well sheltered from the prevailing winds. The total number of citrus trees in the district is about 1,500. Deciduous fruit trees number about 800, and include Japanese plums, peaches, pawpaws, guavas, apricots, and man- goes; under irrigation the number might well be ncreased. Considering the short time that the majority of the Hartley farms have been occupied, much progress has been made. Many of the farmers are now comfortably housed in substantial brick dwellings, and other per- manent improvements such as bore holes, orchards, stone cattle kraals, and paddock fencing are receiving attention. The district as a whole is too good for cattle ranching, while considerable tracts of it are not sufficiently good for pure arable farming. The via media is mixed farming combined with dairying. Owing to its central position between the main consuming centres, its nearness to the Gwelo Creamery, and the presence of 68 FARMING areas. so considerable a mining population, the Hartley district should have a great future. THE MAZOE DISTRICT. Valleys very clearly cut this district up into distinct Some of them, such as the Tatagura, Mazoe proper, and Moore's Concessions, have been in occu- pation for several years and comprise some of the most advanced and settled portions of Rhodesia. To the east side and the north the country is agriculturally poorer, but being well watered and favourably situated it is being rapidly taken up for pastoral purposes. The soils are derived from dolerite, schists, and granite, and are fertile in descending order accordingly. Great differences are found in the character of the soil, and in consequence Mazoe offers a wide field for investi- gation, and requires much study before the most can be made of its varied possibilities. Lime occurs in deposits at many different places, occasionally as compact but not very hard rock, as, for instance, on the famous Insingesi and Pimento Park. The veld is as varied as the soils. Grass is everywhere abundant. In some of the vleis reed swamps occur, which when drained and cleared furnish some of the richest of soil. The granite veld is abundantly moist : its chief value lies in the early grazing it provides. On the red soil the veld is rich, and at present much more than ample during the growing season for current requirements ; but the time is not far off when farmers must grow crops for their stock and not, as now, for immediate sale only ; especially is this necessary where the cows are milked or the cattle are improved above the level of the native stock. Few districts are so favoured with numerous small, perennial streams as is Mazoe, and the land possesses sufficient depth and favourable inclination for irrigation. Irrigation schemes have been lately completed, and others are in process of completion, on the Mazoe, the Umrodzi, and the Garamapudzi rivers. These open up new and extensive possibilities in this district for 69 GUIDE TO RHODESIA winter crops of all sorts, as well as for lucerne, tobacco, and citrus fruits. It is only of late that many of the farms in the outer portions of the district have been taken up, and in the next few years, therefore, a very considerable development is assured beyond what the present statis- tics indicate. Some of the large landowning companies are now selling farms of 1,000 acres each. A factor in the general well-being is the active existence of two Farmers' Associations, the one meeting at Mazoe, and the other at Bindura. The co-operative movement was early taken up by the Mazoe farmers and has made great headway, comparatively few crops of maize not having been placed in the hands of the Society. Co- operation has undoubtedly proved a boon to many, and its extension to other staple crops is to be expected as these become of sufficient importance to justify this method of disposal. Cattle, particularly, are thriving very well indeed. Health and condition and rate of increase are good, but such veld should carry more stock, and with so much cultivated land artificial food should be abundant even where early veld is scarce. Dairying is not extensively practised as yet, though on the farms Summerdale, Somerby, Rockwood, and M’Sasa, and on the Great B, it forms a regular part of the routine, both as a fresh milk and a butter trade. Flocks of small stock of one or two hundred do well, though larger numbers scarcely find adequate short pasturage if kept in one flock. There may be about 2,000 sheep in the district and 550 goats, the latter in some cases being kept for their milk. Not a few men go in for pigs, which are found to do very well and are valuable gleaners after the maize crop is harvested. There must be close on 1,000 pigs kept in the district. It is not too much to say that the Mazoe district gives every indication of being, along with portions of the Goromonzi district adjacent to the Gwebi and around Salisbury, the granary of Rhodesia, the area, that is, in which the largest percentage of land will be, and even is already, under the plough. This will of course be only a fraction of the total area, and stock 70 FARMING will ever form a very important portion of the Mazoe farmer's wealth. No district offers as much scope for maize growing. The yield per acre reaches up to as many as 25 bags (200 lbs.) and even more ; nine bags is quite a common figure. The average is over eight bags. Other crops are as yet grown only on a small scale. Potatoes could with ease be produced in any quantity and supplied all the year round if an adequate price for this somewhat exacting and laborious crop could be depended upon. Onions require peculiar conditions, but this most valuable crop has been grown very success- fully in several instances, and its cultivation is likely to extend considerably in the district. Beans, on the other hand, which are a somewhat erratic and risky crop, are usually readily saleable in larger quantities than farmers are able to produce. Ground nuts are advancing in favour. About 200 acres were planted last year, and the average is likely to be extended in the present season. Oats are grown to a very limited extent, on moist ground or under irrigation, for horse feed. Barley is also sown on a small scale; as irrigation extends along the valleys there is no reason to doubt that this will become one of the major and most profitable crops grown. The Mazoe lemon, identical with the Cape rough lemon, and occurring wild in many places in the district in spite of ruthless felling by natives for the sake of the fruit, has long pointed to the possibility of citrus fruits doing well under cultivation. A number of farmers have planted orange trees. There are about 5,000 trees altogether, these being but a trifle compared with what may be done, especially as it is hoped Rhodesia may soon cater for the European market as well as for local consumption. THE INSIZA DISTRICT. The Insiza district is often looked upon as one of the finest mixed farming districts of Matabeleland. The area is 4,000 square miles, or approximately 2,560,000 acres, of which 150 square miles are occupied by 71 GUIDE TO RHODESIA on area may be native reserves. It lies partly on the granite and partly on formation, the older established farms being almost without exception situated formation ; many of the new settlers have taken up granite veld, which has hitherto been looked at askance, except for ranching. The formation said to extend from Insiza station on the left of the river of that name to Kildare Farm, when a break of granite occurs for ten miles to near the old Devon and Grant mines. Here the formation again comes in and continues southward to the Native Reserve between the rivers Umzingwani and Insiza. On either side of this gold belt the granite veld encroaches. To the north-east the Somabula Flats stretch out in a series of undulations as far as the eye can reach, from the head waters of the Shangani, slightly north-east of the Shangani siding, to M'pateni and the junction of the Insiza and Umzingwani rivers. Fortunately in a district so far removed in parts from the railway the mining industry is well represented, and the mines afford local farmers, who number about 50 in all, a market for their produce. Farmers have, until recently, devoted their main attention to cattle raising, and as fine herds can probably be seen here as anywhere in Southern Rhodesia. The proximity of the granite veld largely obviates the necessity of growing winter fodder, since by a judicious change of grazing from formation veld to granite veld native and cross-bred stock can be kept in fairly good condition all the year through. This does not apply, however, to dairy farming, and as the finer blood of shorthorn and other imported breeds makes itself felt the need of providing for winter feeding becomes apparent. Dairying is well established. The veld is not at present suitable for woolled sheep, but there are several flocks of good quality Persians and cross-breds. Many of the new settlers on the Somabula Flats have also brought sheep up with them from the Cape, and these at present promise exceedingly well. The total number of sheep in the district is about 2,250, 72 FARMING and of goats 300. Owing to the healthiness of the district, horses and mules are more commonly met with on the farms here than in other parts of Rhodesia. Pigs are not receiving as much attention as one might expect. Poultry in fair numbers are to be found on almost every farm. The main crops of the district at the present time are maize, potatoes, onions, and beans. The class of maize most in favour is Hickory King; Boone County has one or two supporters. On the best land crops of from eight to ten bags per acre are not uncommon, while potatoes give from 60 to 100 bags and beans from three to four bags an acre. Continual summer cropping year after year is beginning to show its evil effects, and on several of the older established farms manuring and rotation of crops are becoming necessary. The lighter soils of the district appear well suited to ground nuts, and the future is likely to see an extended use of these as a rotation crop, the nuts being used either for pig food or for sale to the mines when prices are sufficiently good. Citrus fruits do well on the formation, but owing to the distance from the railway no great amount of attention has been paid to citrus planting. About 1,600 seems to be the total number of mixed fruit trees in the district. Taking the district as a whole, the veld is good, but much is what is termed " mixed veld,” that is, veld not composed entirely of sweet grasses, and as a consequence many of the farms will not stand heavy stocking. The cutting and curing of veld grass hay is becoming more and more common. Owing to the presence of the mines a good deal of transport is necessary, and the roads throughout the district are for the most part good. For the same reason wood- cutting and charcoal burning prove a source of additional income to some of the farmers. THE SALISBURY DISTRICT. The district generally known as Salisbury and offi-- cially designated as the Native District of Goromonzi, containing as it does the capital, was one of the first to 73 GUIDE TO RHODESIA become settled. Many of the farms are the property of townspeople, who have bought estates and are either settling on them or using them as a rural savings bank, demonstrating thereby their confidence in the agricul- tural soundness of Rhodesia. Salisbury must be regarded as an arable district. In all there are about eighty resident farmers, several of whom, however, own more than one property. This brings the figure to nearly a hundred beneficially occupied farms. The area of the whole district is roughly 2,188 square miles or 1,400,320 acres, and of the occupied farms 543 square miles or 344,834 acres. No fewer than 718 square miles are allotted to a Native Reserve, while 727 square miles are not being made use of, although for the most part privately owned. A recent estimate of the crops gave the following approxi- mate returns :-Maize, 16,000 acres ; manna, 450 ; oats, 220 ; potatoes, 160 ; tobacco, 114 ; and sundry small crops—wheat, beans, ground nuts, linseed, etc.--300 acres. With many roads centring on the capital and with the railway running into it from four directions, the district is readily traversed. Being on the watershed there are no rivers of great size, and for this reason there is not, perhaps, much prospect of any large irri- gation works, but on several farms along the rivers Gwebi, Umzururu, Hunyani, Umwindsi, and Umtenji there are opportunities for excellent schemes affecting individual farms. Wells and bore holes seldom fail to strike water at reasonable depths. The great bulk of the soil consists either of one or the other of two types, the red loam or the granitic sand. Other soils also occur-chocolate, black vleis, and calcareous loams. In fertility there often are great differences between adjoining farms. The greater part of the district, the north, the east, along the southern edge, and at the western end, consists of granitic soil. The surface is gently undulating, but runs up into fantastic granite kopjes. A feature of such country is the black vleis, sodden in summer and holding the 74 FARMING moisture long into the dry season. A great future is in store for the district when these are fully understood and the best mode of applying to them the principles of the much discussed “ dry farming " system has been ascertained. Meantime they serve a special purpose in that the grass springs afresh on them many weeks before the rains commence, so that long before there is veld on the red soil there is good grazing on the granite. For ideal farming some of both classes of soil is desirable, the red loam for crops, the sand for winter grazing and as a change of pasture, for the grass and herbs of the two classes of soil are quite distinct. All the various sides of Rhodesian farming are repre- sented in the district : Maize, tobacco, dairying, stock raising, fruit growing. Probably there is a larger maize acreage here than in any other part, some of the largest growers of maize being found within the borders of this district. The majority of farmers have from 200 to 400 acres under maize, but a few have much The yield is high, varying from four to 18 bags on unmanured land, with, perhaps, six to seven bags all over, as an average in a fair season; while on manured land up to 25 bags and even more per acre have been reported. Already the Farmers' Co-operative Society deals with the bulk of the crop of this and adjacent districts and is extending its operations. The next most important side of farming is probably dairy farming. Salisbury offers a ready market for both milk and butter. Many of the cows are proved ”—crossed, that is, with European breeds. Cattle are increasing rapidly in numbers. Holdings vary greatly, ranging from only twenty or thirty breed- ing cows up to a hundred or more on several farms, and to upwards of 2,000 head on Borrowdale. The total number of cattle in the district is approximately 10,000, of which in round numbers 3,100 are oxen Throughout the district there is manifest a prosperous and progressive tone, so that the future of farming may be looked upón as encouraging and assured. more. 66 im- 75 GUIDE TO RHODESIA UMZINGWANI, MATOBO, AND TULI. Commencing immediately outside the town of Bula- wayo is the native district of Umzingwani, which in- cludes the north-eastern edge of the Matopos and the broad valleys that stretch between them and the Insiza Hills. It has an area of 691 square miles, and extends from the watershed of the country down to Balla-Balla, where it adjoins the districts of Gwanda and Belingwe. The occupied farms are few and far between. Owing to geological differences the farms vary much as regards soil, veld, and water. Around Heany Junction and down the Gwanda railway line to past Ophir Siding and in the Malingwane Hills gold-bearing schists occur. Else- where we have granite furnishing for the most part light soils, which are sour and bare, but well watered, and early and most suitable for cattle rearing. The sedimentary and volcanic rocks have given rise to a much richer soil, especially in the valleys, where good alluvial stretches are to be found. Near Bulawayo the farms have been broken up into small holdings, while, naturally, many dairy farms are found, supply- ing milk to the town. The Matobo district is not dissimilar in many respects from Umzingwani. The area is 2,088 square miles, but much of it is devoted for all time to the purposes of a public pleasure ground and to native reserves. Some noteworthy farms occur in the neighbourhood of Fort Usher. These usually, though not invariably, possess soils of both the red loam and the granitic sandy types. Dairy farmers throughout the whole district find a ready market for their products. Cutting the natural grass of the veld and making hay, baling it, and selling it, is also considerably practised. Tobacco growing is receiving more and more attention, while the staple crop of mealies continues to be grown in larger and larger quantities. The country is essentially good for cattle, and several farmers hold between two and three hundred head of breeding stock, while a few have more. There are 50 farmers in the district. These put about 1,800 acres under mealies last year, with 76 IN PULKS 333 SER NES PLUS SEX *** Y APPLE *** APPLES Fruit Farming at Inyanga. 77 Photos by] IL. Pedrotti, Bulawayo. (1) Orchard at Mr. Hull's Farm, Matopos. (2) The Matopo Dam. 78 FARMING >> 120 acres of potatoes and 80 acres of ground nuts, a crop of which more is likely to be grown next year. The number of breeding cattle may be put down at 3,100, and oxen, mostly used for draught purposes, at 800, whilst farmers own about 50 horses. The most noteworthy farm is no doubt Westacre, where Mr. E. A. Hull has been resident a number of years, working in partnership with the Rhodes Trustees. This is the farm on which the far-famed Matopo dam has been constructed, and is often spoken of as Mr. Rhodes's farm. In addition to ordinary agricultural operations a certain amount of attention is, it is under- stood, bestowed upon experimental research of a practical nature, the results of which should one day be of much value to the Rhodesian farmer. High-class stock has consistently been kept. Lucerne is being laid down on a large scale and up to the present is giving most promising results. Looking westwards from 66 World's View the tourist can hardly fail to notice signs of cultivation in a narrow valley. This is on the farm Mineral King belonging to Mr. Savory, who has in the brief space of two seasons put a considerable extent of land under irrigation and is rapidly increasing this area, growing with the aid of manure heavy crops of potatoes, oats, mealies, tomatoes, and vegetables. Mr. Savory has also planted out citrus groves which are well calculated to prove a successful venture. Not far from Figtree Station are some farms of especial interest. At Vreigevecht South, Mr. Wood is specialising in tobacco, which he is growing on a considerable scale. There are three flue curing barns and more must be built to meet the needs of the Virginian crop, which is the chief sort grown; only a few acres of Turkish leaf are cultivated. The farm is situated precisely on the contact of the sedimentary rocks with the granite—a combination which furnishes the best tobacco soils. Mopani trees occur south of the Matopos, between the range and Gwanda and the Antelope Mine, indivi- dually at first, then in belts, and in greater profusion and perfection of growth as one proceeds southwards, 79 GUIDE TO RHODESIA though generally mixed with other species, notably sweet thorn. The mopani veld is intersected by several good permanent streams—the Malundi, Ove, Malema, and Tuli rivers—all of which take their rise in the Matopos and flow ultimately into the last-named, and thus to the Limpopo River. Along these streams and their tributaries the best soil is found, and sweet veld also. Between them on the rising ground are greater or smaller expanses of sour veld, with a relatively poor soil ; as a rule this is very sandy, apt to dry out, and covered with sparse scrub. Water is the chief factor to be considered. Such country is best occupied in large blocks as ranching propositions, with just sufficient cultivation for personal requirements and for winter stock feed, as veld hay, stover, silage, roots, mangold, pumpkin, and winter grass. From the Malundi River to the Antelope Mine and on to Hwatalala's kraal good mopani veld is found. Water is very scarce. Thence to the Tuli River the country is densely bushed. South of the Matobo and Umzingwani districts is Tuli-Manzamnyama. Round the township of Gwanda lies an expanding mining area, beyond which the country is for the most part granitic. Water is frequently As yet there are few farms in the district, which is of great extent, covering 9,589 square miles. There is a ready market for mealies, charcoal, and for perishables like vegetables and butter, on the sur- rounding mines. Throughout bush veld predominates. Fairly large timber is met wit chiefly acacias and mopani, near the Shashi, Shashani, and Tuli rivers—a locality famed as being the haunt of elephant and other large game and carnivora. From 15 miles below Tuli and down the Shashi and Crocodile for 35 miles there occurs a remarkable belt along the river front consisting entirely of the malala, or vegetable ivory palm, which is of economic use at present only on account of the alcoholic beverage its sap yields. The natives collect this sap, but destroy the trees in the process. Behind the belt, northwards, there extends a large tract of buffalo grass veld with scattered mimosa thorn. Water scarce. 80 FARMING is rather scarce except where such tributaries of the Crocodile as the Ipadi, Mzitashukwe, and the Umzing- wani pass through it. Eastwards of the palm belt, and down to the Malala Drift, one meets mopani and mimosa, but beyond this point the country becomes very arid and rocky and wild in the extreme, continuing so throughout the district down to the Bubghe River. In contradistinction to all this, splendid grazing country, with rich black soil and splendid grass, stretches from the neighbourhood of Gong's Poort for about 70 miles westward. It extends north and north-westward round the Jopempi Mountain and beyond the junction of the Umzingwani and Umtchabesi rivers, and includes the areas lately taken up by the Liebig Company, and also the Elwes Block. It is rolling grass country, part open and part savannah of buffalo grass, mopani, and mimosa thorn-sweet veld with ample water. Further up the Umzingwani, round Tivuli and up the West Nicholson, granite veld prevails. From 15 miles from Gwanda. to Tuli the road passes through practically great unin- habited spaces to Elephant Pits and the Golden Gate. The large black acacia and mopani are abundant, and a very extensive forest consisting of these, together with other trees, is found in the neighbourhood of Reitfontein. MELSETTER DISTRICT. As to the crops which grow in this remarkable district, it must be premised that present production is, more so than in any other district, no criterion of what Mel- setter could produce if reasonable prospects arose of a good market. At present, of the bulkier foodstuffs- maize, oats, oat-hay-only enough is grown to meet local prospective requirements. A little wheat is annually sent out to Umtali. Last year upwards of 150 acres were grown, which, at the low average of four bags per acre, is but 1,800 bushels ; there is a prospect of the acreage being extended, especially if the projected grinding mills at Mutambarra in the north and Kenil- worth in the south should become accomplished facts. The favourite wheat has in the past been “Wolkoren,” 7 81 GUIDE TO RHODESIA but it is very liable to suffer from rust. * Medeah' has proved a better sort, and many have grown it for some years. Gluyas Early wheat is, however, now generally sown; it is more or less rust resistant and matures early, which is a great desideratum where a crop must be harvested before the rains break, and the meal is very superior to that of Medeah wheat. Fruit wastes every season for lack of a market. No attempt has yet been made to take up fruit-drying on a commercial scale. Owing to the fact that most fruit ripens in or about February—during the rains-drying ovens would be necessary ; and as the crops are for the most part individually small, combination of adjoining farms or groups of farms on co-operative lines would be necessary. As indicating the wonderful potentialities of the district, the following list comprises fruits found growing in two orchards, those at the Mount Selinda Mission, and at Wolverhampton Farm, many being found in both; over fifty distinct sorts and a hundred varieties is a record which speaks for itself: Oranges, lemons, limes, naartjes, tangerines, grape fruit, apples, pears, quinces, plums, Japanese plums, greengages, nectarines, apricots, peaches, loquats, guavas, medlars, custard apples, avocada pears, mangoes, pawpaws, persimmon, pomegranate, pineapple, kei apple, tamarind, tree tomato, figs, cactus pear, bananas, grenadillas, melons, chou-chou, grapes, mulberry, strawberry, wonderberry, loganberry, raspberry, Cape gooseberry, walnut, hickory-nut, peccan-nut, almond, amatungulu, amangana, mugibi, maungu, Hottentot fig, roselle, and ziziphus. All told, there must be many thousands of trees, and the flavour of the fruit is remarkably full and sweet. Citrus trees and bananas do extremely well. Other perishables, such as vegetables and butter, are cheaply produced. The sweet potato grows to perfection, and also the yam. Ten different sorts of manioc or cassava have been grown, and all do well, and tapioca is at times actually manufactured by the ladies of the Mission for domestic use. Coffee is cul- tivated commercially. Upwards of twenty farmers 82 GUIDE TO RHODESIA cross-bred sheep, the total number of sheep in the district being estimated at fourteen hundred, with about one-fourth as many goats. From the appear- ance of these flocks there seems good reason to hope that sheep raising may, in the near future, become of considerable importance to the district. The veld is well suited to improvement by the introduction of exotic grasses, which will provide succulent grazing during the winter, and to the sowing of oats or rye in March or April. The soil is well adapted to growing such crops as ground nuts, sweet potatoes, and native potatoes (Plectranthus sp.) at very small cost. Maize, owing to the relative poverty of the soil, is never likely to become an important crop here. A considerable acreage of winter wheat and oats, however, is already grown, and the area of land thus utilised will year by year increase ; the bulk is irrigated land. The prospects for growing winter cereals—wheat, oats, barley, and rye-on moist vlei soils without irrigation are good; and the prospects of wheat production on naturally moist vlei land are promising. The latent possibilities of the granite vlei land of Southern Rhodesia are exemplified by the results which have already been obtained in the Makoni district. The district is favourably placed for the cul- tivation of tobacco, especially the bright leaf variety, Most of the farmers some time ago established small mixed orchards, and these are just now coming into bearing. It is noticeable that in this district the temperate fruits, such as apples, peaches, plums, and possibly pears, promise exceedingly well. Much of the country is too cold and exposed for citrus fruits, but these may be expected to thrive better when ade- quate shelter and wind-breaks have been established. At present over 3,000 mixed fruit trees are being cul- tivated. MREWA DISTRICT. With one or two noticeable exceptions, the farms here are but recently occupied and there are 15 farmers 84 FARMING altogether. At present only the southern part of the district, within a radius of about twenty-five miles of the railway line, has been settled. This portion is well watered, mostly by perennial streams, but in the northern half water is not so plentiful, and in places the soil is arid, thickly covered with thorn scrub, and but sparsely populated by natives. Throughout the soil is of granitic origin, but here and there small areas of black and red soil are found overlying the granite. The most important crop is oat forage. There is a small acreage under wheat. No account of the Mrewa district would be complete without reference to the farms occupied by Mr. Jelliman. An enormous amount of work has been done on them, and there are said to be more than thirteen miles of water furrow, and well over two hundred acres under irrigation. Much of the soil is of a sandy nature but grows good oat forage. Mr. Jelliman is at present experimenting with rice sown in the lower lands as a summer crop, assisted by irrigation, and is also testing the possibilities of irrigated winter pastures. The irrigated lands are somewhat scattered, and in places the soil is comparatively poor, but with a goodly number of cattle and sheep and an abundance of kraal manure the latter of these disadvantages could be overcome. The horned stock owned by farmers' number about one thousand, of which four hundred are oxen and the remainder breeding cattle. The veld, though light, is usually of good quality, and there is no question as to the suitability of the district for ranching. A few small flocks of sheep are to be found and they appear to thrive well. If one might venture to foretell the future, it would seem that mixed farming, combined with dairying and pig-raising, should be the goal of those farmers possessing either irrigation or good summer arable land. The success of tobacco on granite soils indicates the possibilities of a crop which should offer good prospects in the district. The growing of small grains, such as wheat, oats, barley, and rye, on naturally moist soil without irrigation 85 GUIDE TO RHODESIA might also be attempted, as has been done with such marked success in the adjoining district of Mtoko. CHARTER-ENKELDOORN DISTRICT. This district comprises the country to the south and south-east of Umvuma as far as Felixburg, extending north as far as the Ngesi River and Fort Charter. The two centres of the district are Enkeldoorn and Umvuma. Practically all this region consists of granite and other sand soils, and is generally regarded as poor for agri- cultural purposes, but by reason of the abundance of water and the earliness of veld grasses it is considered excellent for stock. There are five distinct varieties of sandy soil. One is a pinkish soil and is characterised by the presence of proteas (sugar bush), which abound in it. This is considered to be good tobacco soil. Another is a dark soil, characterised by its flora, which invariably contains acacias in numbers. It is considered to be extremely fertile and bears cropping to maize for many years without manure. This class of soil occurs on the sides or tops of bults, and is in no wise alluvial in character. The sub-soil consists of a light red soil. There are two kinds of vlei soils, one the ordi- nary vlei soil found in the bottoms of the valleys, moist almost all the year round and alluvial in character ; the other moist formation on sloping ground, sometimes extending to the valley bottom. This latter variety is of the greatest value to the farmer on account of the early grazing it affords. In some cases, when ploughed up, it yields a good crop of winter wheat without irri- gation. The district in general is flat, with gentle undulations. Water courses are numerous, and tri- butaries to the bigger rivers, the Ngesi, Umniati, Sebakwe, and Sabi, traverse the district east and west. The district is extremely healthy for most classes of animals. Horses do well (though horse sickness is not unknown); several farmers go in for horse breeding a small scale. Donkeys are bred at Kaalplats. Cattle invariably do exceedingly well, but the class of stock is not high. Sheep have been introduced, but on 86 Maize : (1) Growing, (2) Ready for sale. 87 Photos byl IL. Pedrotti Bulawayo. The Tobacco Industry: (1) Field of half-grown Bright Leaf. (2) Sun-curing Turkish Leaf. 88 FARMING whole crop opinions are divided as to the suitability of the district for this purpose. Persians and crosses with Persians do fairly well in small flocks, but merinos have so far been a failure. Goats are fairly plentiful. Pigs thrive well and a few are to be found on most farms. Several farmers pay attention to poultry rearing. Occasionally turkeys and geese are kept. Maize is the principal crop grown, though the is very small. Kraal manure has to be applied every two or three years on the sandy soils. Wheat is hardly less important than maize. It is grown principally under irrigation as a winter crop. Attempts to grow it as a dry-land winter crop have met with success. The biggest grower of wheat is Mr. van Rooyan, at Sterkstroom, who produces from 200 to 250 bags each season. Oats are greatly favoured as a crop, but distance from market makes any sale difficult Rapoko is one of the best paying crops, according to the few farmers who grow it. Mr. Kok, at Glen Connor, has 100 acres to this crop. Kaffir beans (nyamba) are also regarded as a very paying crop and, like rapoko, find a ready sale among the natives and on the mines. Onions, in plots averaging about half an acre, are grown on many farms. The variety grown is almost exclusively Natal Yellow, which is valued for its good keeping qualities. The experimental lots of paspalum distributed to farmers by the Agricultural Department have been a great success on the damp portions of the farms, and some farmers mean to put down a large acreage to it. Boer manna is grown in small quantities on several farms. Teff grass is about to be tried by many of the farmers. Mangels were grown at Reubenvale, sown broadcast in March, 1912, and, under irrigation, produced a good crop. Lucerne has been attempted with a view to rearing ostriches, but the unsuitability of the subsoil prevented the crop from lasting more than a few years. Potatoes are grown where irrigation is available, but only in all quantities. Tobacco has been tried and found promising. Bamboos of three varieties are being 89 GUIDE TO RHODESIA extensively grown at Driefontein by the Jesuit Fathers. Velvet beans have given a good return on one farm, as also have soy beans (variety unknown), where 12 lb. sown gave a return of 485 lb. Pumpkins are univer- sally grown, being generally broadcasted with the maize crop. Buckwheat has been successfully grown. Citrus fruit trees have done fairly well except in the low-lying valleys, where the frost is too severe ; at some farms the trees are now from 10 to 15 years old. There are a number of fine peach, plum, and apricot trees. Apples, pears, and cherries also do well at Veep- laats Farm, particularly cherries, of which three varieties are grown. The grape vines bear substantially and are among the finest thus far seen in the country. Bananas suffer from the winter frosts, and pawpaws too. Only within the last year have serious attempts been made to grow crops on a large scale, or to practise any system of rotation, and the future of the district, agri- culturally, is distinctly encouraging. Irrigation is practised widely, 90 VIII.-INFORMATION FOR FARMERS are The duties of the Agricultural Department of Southern Rhodesia both administrative and advisory. To the administrative section belongs the control of the movement of cattle and outbreaks of disease ; the registration of brands; the control of pounds and kindred matters relative to livestock, and of matters concerning the Fencing Ordinances and the quarantine of plants; and also the examination of imported fruit and the inspection of nurseries, to prevent the spread of disease amongst thé orchards of the country. The advisory work of the Department covers a very wide field. The Agricultural Branch deals with inquiries relating to farm practice, soils, crops, cultural operations, agricultural implements and machinery, seeds, trees, and the like. The Animal Industries Branch is prepared to advise with regard to all matters connected with stock breeding, the care and management of farm stock, including poultry, the dairying industry, buildings for stock, and kindred subjects. Stock is purchased on behalf of farmers, both in the Union of South Africa and in countries overseas, specially favourable terms for payment being given. The Agricultural Chemist deals with matters relating to the composition of agricultural products, soils, fertilisers, and the like. No charge is made where such analyses are of general interest, but where they are of purely individual benefit a small fee is required. The Government Entomologist advises on matters connected with insect pests and live stock, crops, and fruit trees. The Tobacco Expert travels throughout the country advising growers on matters connected with this valuable crop, also guiding their operations in the curing of their leaf. 91 GUIDE TO RHODESIA The Irrigation Engineer similarly furnishes advice on all matters connected with irrigation projects, in the locating of sites, the preparation of surveys and plans for works, and the selection of suitable sites for boring operations. Full information, verbal and documentary, is given free, but in cases demanding prolonged indi- vidual attention or repeated supervision a charge may be levied. The services of Government Veterinary Surgeons are available to the public free of charge in connection with outbreaks of contagious diseases and testing for glanders or tuberculosis. A scale of charges has been prepared for advice in cases of other diseases, ordinary surgical operations, and advice of a private nature. Virus for the treatment of certain diseases of stock is sold to farmers at a very low price. The Government is also prepared to assist farmers financially in the construction of dipping tanks by grants-in-aid on the £ for £ principle, not exceeding a total of £50. Tanks can be constructed for about £100 each. The services of officers of the Department are avail- able for the purpose of delivering lectures at farmers' meetings. The Rhodesia Agricultural Journal is published six times a year, price 5s. per annum, and contains a mass of instructive matter of interest to Rhodesian farmers. On particular subjects a large number of bulletins have been issued, which can be obtained free on application. The Department from time to time receives numerous inquiries from persons desirous of obtaining openings on farms as managers, assistants, or learners. A record of these is preserved, and efforts are made to bring applicants into touch with suitable openings. A scheme for the extension of the telephone system to the farming districts, thus affording facilities for isolated farms to get into close touch with the outer world, was introduced in 1912. By this departure individual farmers connected to a common centre are able to communicate with one another as well as to 92 INFORMATION FOR FARMERS their post office or station, free, and, through these, to towns or other centres, at the ordinary tariff for long- distance calls or telegrams, as the case may be. THE CATTLE INDUSTRY. Essentially, Rhodesia is a stock country. The con- ditions point strongly to meat as the principal ultimate product to be elaborated off the veld. Dairying, too, undoubtedly has a bright future, yet primarily beef is to be looked to as Rhodesia's staple export to the world's markets ; milk, butter, and cheese will chiefly meet the local demand. Cattle-raising requires more capital and a longer time before profits accrue, but ultimately yields a higher return. Crop-growing yields a more regular and an earlier returna more vital consideration to the new- comer and the man of limited means. Ranching, or at least cattle farming on extensive lines, is a growing feature of the times in Rhodesia, so far with a very promising measure of success, the one general want as yet being numbers. The indigenous native cattle supply the foundation stock, improvement being gradually effected by the introduction of bulls of European breeds. The Government is endeavouring to encourage the sys- tematic improvement of cattle in the country, and steps for the establishment of a stud farm have been taken, whilst no inconsiderable time is devoted to tendering information and advice on the subject. There is no doubt that Rhodesian methods in cattle farming are advancing, the most noticeable signs being increased attention to such matters as hay-making for winter use, production of forage and of root crops for stall feeding, the construction of dairies and dipping tanks, better housing, more attention to the care of calves, and, perhaps above all, fencing. Changes in the direction indicated are conspicuous on some of the large ranches in Lomagundi and the farming districts of Goromonzi, Umtali, and elsewhere, where cattle now run day and night in camps, undisturbed and free, with very obvious advantages, as against the primitive 93 GUIDE TO RHODESIA custom of herding all day and kraaling at night. The mortality of cattle from casual ailments and accidents is singularly low throughout the country, but par- ticularly so where fencing enables the nightly concen- tration in kraals to be avoided—an effective protection against the appearance and spread of contagious disease and where the conditions of life are otherwise rendered wholesome, natural, and easy. THE GWELO CREAMERY. The British South Africa Company in 1913 erected a creamery at Gwelo, the first undertaking of its kind in Rhodesia, and an important departure in the farming industry. It is equipped with the most modern plant, including three cold-storage chambers, and has a mini- mum capacity of 2,000 lb. of butter per diem. For the present, energies are confined solely to butter-making, though the building has been so designed as to permit of the extension of its operations to cheese-making. Farmers sending in supplies not only receive current market rates for their produce, but also a pro rata share of the net profits. In addition, they are able to purchase separators and cans through the Creamery and to pay for them by means of monthly deductions from the amounts due to them for their cream. Favourable rates for the conveyance of milk and cream have been granted by the railway. administration, varying from id. per gallon for distances up to 25 miles to 3d. per gallon for distances of from 250 to 300 miles. Cans are returned free at owner's risk, and without a consignment note, provided they are properly labelled. Cream can be safely transported from any station in Southern Rhodesia to the Creamery. The manager is Mr. W. G. Elliott, lately manager of the Heilbron Creamery, in the Orange Free State, who has had considerable experience in dairying both in Great Britain and South Africa. EXPERIMENT STATIONS, &c. The Government has established at Salisbury tho- roughly well-equipped laboratories for veterinary re- 94 INFORMATION FOR FARMERS are search and chemical and entomological investigations ; and also a Botanical Experiment Station, where a very large variety of crops are being experimentally grown under the immediate supervision of the Department, and at a place easily accessible to all interested. The Station surrounds the agricultural and veterinary laboratories, and is situated on the Commonage, about a mile from Salisbury, being about 70 acres in extent, 35 of which are under crop. The soil is the red loam derived from diorite, and is typical of the red soils of Mashonaland. Here various new crops which thought likely to prove suitable to Rhodesian conditions are tested on a small scale. Where results are promising, seed is sent to experiment farms and there grown in field trials ; such seed is also issued free to farmers for trial on their own farms under a scheme which pro- vides for co-operative experiments. Plant-breeding by means of selection and also by hybridization receives much attention, and the production of varieties of wheat and oats sufficiently rust-resistant to permit of their being grown as summer crops is one of the most impor- tant lines of research. The Station also affords scope for the Agricultural Chemist and the Government Entomologist in research work with artificial fertilisers, and spraying experiments for checking insect pests. There are also two experiment farms -one on red soil, at Gwebi, in Mashonaland ; the other (“Longila ”) on granite veld near Lochard, Matabeleland. These farms are still in the early stages of their existence, but systematic operations are in progress, and much valuable information is being collected with regard to the possi- bilities of farming in each region. The Gwebi Farm is roughly 3,000 acres in extent, and typical of the red and black soils of Mashonaland; some 400 acres are under crop. The draught animals consist of two spans of oxen and a span of mules. A block of 100 acres, of moderate fertility but much in need of organic matter, is being treated for two or three seasons with renovating crops-nodule-bear- ing leguminous crops, fine strawed fodder crops which leave a stubble to be ploughed under, and root crops to which manure 95 GUIDE TO RHODESIA is applied. Catch crops of winter cereals, sown in February and March and matured without irrigation, are grown on a stretch of low-lying vlei soil. Manurial experiments with maize, mangels, wheat, and potatoes have been commenced. Variety trials of wheat, oats, mangels, ground nuts, linseed, beans, cowpeas and other fodder crops are made systemati- cally. Three strains of maize—namely, Salisbury White, Hickory King 8-row and Hickory King 10-row-are grown, from seed successively selected during the past four seasons. Hand-picked selected seed is offered for sale at 15s. per 100 lb. All crops are grown on carefully measured acreages, and complete records of cultivation, growth and relative yield per acre are kept. The breeding stock consists of a small herd of Angoni and Victoria cows ; a herd of pure-bred Friesland cattle numbering 18 females and a bull; and one three-year-old English-bred Shorthorn bull, “ Favourite Pride,” with four colonial Shorthorn females. Other live-stock kept are a small flock of pure-bred Merino sheep and a number of pure-bred Large Black pigs; Merino rams and also young Large Black pigs are offered for sale, the former at £4 4s. each. The Longila Farm consists of 3,500 acres, and is situated two miles from Lochard Siding on the railway 30 miles north of Bulawayo. The formation is pure granite. The primary object of this Station is to ascertain the possibilities of the granite soils of Rhodesia and also to demonstrate what may be done in the growing of winter cereal crops, either for grain or for fodder production, on moisture-retaining sand soils without irrigation. Tobacco, maize, beans, monkey-nuts, potatoes, and summer and winter cereals are receiving primary attention. Extensive experiments are also to be conducted with the object of introducing exotic asture grasses for the formation of permanent winter pasture. The farm is remarkably bare of timber and consequently very exposed, and, therefore, afforestation work will form an important feature of the operations. No breeding stock, other than a small flock of sheep, has as yet been placed on the farm. A certain amount of experiment work is being done on the Premier (Umtali), Marendellas, and Sinoia Estates of the British South Africa Company. At the two latter, arrangements for the reception of a limited number of settlers for instruction in farming under Rhodesian conditions are in force. Under this system, pupils are provided with free quarters ; usually they mess together, 96 INFORMATION FOR FARMERS and their food costs about £5 per month. Similar arrangements can be made with various well-established farmers. A Forest Nursery has been established about three miles from Salisbury, on the Enterprise road. The older plantations of gums, cypresses, sisso, etc., are now in their sixth and seventh years, and much inter- esting information may be gleaned as to the suitability of various species of trees for afforestation work in Rhodesia. Upwards of 60,000 seedling trees of the most popular varieties are raised annually and sold to the farming community at the low price of 8s. 4d. per 100. The object of this work is to enable farmers to purchase at low cost useful and ornamental trees with which to improve the surroundings of their home- steads and for establishing shelter belts around orchards and paddocks. Full advantage of this work is taken. As the demand increases the output of seedling trees will also be increased. Under a system of Co-operative Experiments, seed of crops which have already proved successful on the Government experiment stations is issued free of charge to Rhodesian farmers. The seed is supplied f.o.r. Salisbury in sufficient quantity to permit of the farmer growing at least 4-acre plots of several varieties. The object is to enable farmers to test those crops which have already given good results on the experiment stations, under the varying conditions found on their own farms. Where successful crops are grown the farmer, of course, secures seed of new crops free of cost and is thus able to continue and extend his sowings of any varieties which he finds well suited to the particular conditions of his farm. Between two and three hundred farmers annually avail themselves of the co-operative free seed distribution. The only stipulation made by the Government is that the farmer conducting the experiments should forward to the Department, on forms supplied for the purpose, a true and detailed report of the growth and results of these experimental crops. 97 D GUIDE TO RHODESIA TOBACCO. The prospects of the tobacco industry in the Territory are bright. Growers are gaining experience, and it has been conclusively proved that, with proper treatment, tobacco of very good quality can be grown. The pro- duction has increased very considerably in the last few years, and last season's crop was estimated at from 2,500,000 to 3,000,000 lb., or more than ten times the quantity of the season 1910-11. Seed was distributed to nearly 300 growers. Owing to the large number of be- ginners, a great proportion of dark leaf was sent to the Warehouse in 1912, but in actual weight the amount of bright leaf cured was greater than in the year previous, while the quality of some of the leaf was better. The number of flue-curing barns in use is roughly 200, and the area under tobacco nearly 3,000 acres. The majority of growers continue to confine themselves to the pro- duction of bright Virginia tobacco, the type of leaf required by manufacturers in South Africa, and for which there is a big demand in the tobacco markets of the world. It does not appear that the supply has yet met the demands of the South African buyers, and there is no reason to suppose that the prices so far paid for Rhodesian leaf will not prevail for some time to come. Growers generally dispose of their leaf through the Tobacco Warehouse, out of which it is sold by auction, these sales taking place early in each year. Growers are gradually realising the importance of frequent and thorough cultivation of the soil, and are adopting improved methods which, with the experience being gained in flue-curing, will undoubtedly result in the production of better quality tobacco, at less cost. A considerable amount of cigar leaf seed of various varieties has been distributed for experimental purposes, and some valuable data, it is hoped, will shortly be avail- able as to the practicability of growing this remunerative type of leaf in the Territory. It would appear, however, that the climate is too dry successfully to grow the wrapper variety. 98 Rhodesian Agriculture: Fields of (1) Oats, (2) Potatoes, (3) Velvet Beans. 99 D2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA In January, 1911, leaf to the amount of 132,310 lb. was sold. By January, 1912, the figures had risen to over 350,000 lb., while in 1913 a total of 925,711 lb. was put up for sale. The leaf was received and graded WOBESIN WELD CREAMERY IATA (1) Tobacco Factory, Bulawayo. (2) Creamery, Gwelo. at the Warehouse in Salisbury, the property of the Commercial Branch of the British South Africa Company. During 1914 the Company intended approximately to double the accommodation and the plant of the TOO INFORMATION FOR FARMERS Warehouse at a cost of about £17,000. The Warehouse is managed on lines which are very favourable to growers. Half the net profits are divided among those whose leaf is left in for sale by auction, pro rata to the quantity of leaf sent in by each. The following are the present charges for grading and handling leaf :- }d. per lb. for scrap. Id. per lb. for leaf sold for less than 1s. per lb. 1 d. per lb. for leaf sold for 1s. per lb. or over. The following system of cash advances on leaf sent to the Warehouse is in force : On delivery it is valued by the Manager. The grower can then obtain an advance equal to 50 per cent. of the valuation. A further advance of 25 per cent. is paid after the leaf has been graded and is ready for sale. All planters are, of course, treated alike and they have the right of withdrawing their leaf from the auction sale on payment of the cost of its preparation for the sale. POULTRY, Common observation shows that the possibilities of the poultry industry are extraordinarily neglected in Rhodesia. The quality of local poultry on the market is poor and prices are absurdly high. The treatment accorded is usually of the most casual nature, but where care is given to it, and there are a few instances of this, good results are obtained. The total amount, according to Customs returns, paid to other countries for poultry of all sorts, live and dead, and for eggs, in 1912 was £19,080. Consider- able consignments of eggs come from Europe. Dead poultry is brought from as far away as China and Australia. Farm fowls sell at from 2s. 6d. to 5s. each, and farm eggs at from 2s. to 3s. 6d. per dozen ; ducks, 4s. to 10s. each, geese, 9s. to 15s., turkeys, 2s. 6d. to 25s. IOI GUIDE TO RHODESIA The drawbacks to poultry keeping in Rhodesia are not greater than elsewhere. THE RHODESIA LAND BANK. A Land Bank was established in Rhodesia in 1912 for the purpose of assisting farmers to develop their farms, by advancing them money at a reasonable rate of interest. The interest usually charged in Rhodesia on loans on farm property varies from 8 per cent. to 10 per cent. per annum, and in a few cases is even higher. The Land Bank, which confines its business to the farming industry, advances money at 6 per cent. interest for 'a definite period. These terms are obviously to the advantage of the farmer, and will doubtless have a marked effect on the development of the industry generally. Farmers have already availed themselves to a large extent of the facilities thus offered. The Bank's offices are in Bulawayo. The conditions under which loans are made may be summarised as under :- (1.) Advances are made (a) against a First Mortgage Bond over landed property ; (b) on deposit of other approved security. (2.) Advances are made for all or any of the following purposes : (a) To purchase or partly purchase land or to pay off existing liabilities on land. (6) To effect improvements on land, including farm buildings, fencing, irrigation works, and afforestation. (c) To purchase livestock, plant and agricultural im- plements generally. (3.) Interest on advances is charged at the rate of 6 per cent. per annum, payable half-yearly in advance on the 30th June and 31st December at the offices of the Bank, Bulawayo. (4.) Advances must be repaid within a period not exceeding 102 INFORMATION FOR FARMERS ten years, and in order to facilitate repayment the following scale may be taken advantage of :- Per cent. During the 1st and 2nd years ... nil At the end of the 2nd year 4 3rd 7 4th 9 5th 11 6th 12 7th 13 8th 14 9th 15 10th >> > 99 :) > 9 9 15 100 When it is required to repay a loan at a date earlier than that specified in the Bond, three months' notice is required by the Bank. (5.) No advance will be made on the security of land not permanently occupied and beneficially cultivated and worked. (6.) The costs and fees of preparing or discharging any mortgage, pledge or other security must be borne by the borrower. (7.) Applicants for loans are required to bear the cost of inspecting their farms where necessary. (8.) Advances are only made for certain specific objects, and moneys advanced must be applied to those purposes in terms of the Bond. (9.) All applications for loans must be made direct to the Bank on the printed form supplied for the purpose, by the farmers themselves and not through agents or second parties. (10.) In order to meet the wishes of farmers requiring small loans for short periods, advances not exceeding £150 are made on the personal guarantee of the applicant supported by two satisfactory sureties. Such loans bear interest at the rate of 7 per cent. per annum and, as a rule, are repayable within a period of twelve months. Forms of application and any further particulars required may be obtained on application to the Manager, Rhodesia Land Bank, Limited, P.O. Box 15, Bulawayo, from the Estates Office, Salisbury, or from the principal Civil and Native Commissioners throughout Southern Rhodesia. 103 GUIDE TO RHODESIA SALE OF LAND, One of the advantages of taking up farming in Rhodesia is that land is cheap, and is, moreover, sold on easy terms of payment. The British South Africa Company disposes of land to approved settlers at a very low price. In 1913, sales were on the basis of 7s. per acre upwards, according to position and quality. Land is sold by the morgen, a Cape measurement equal to 2; English acres. Mixed farms are usually 1,200 acres in extent, and farms for stock-raising 6,000 acres, the latter being in the remoter parts of the country ; for mixed farms only land is allotted that is within economic reach of the railways. The title to land does not include mineral rights. After purchase, a yearly quit-rent is payable to the Company, being on the basis of 1s. per 50 acres, plus a stamp duty which ranges from 3d. upwards, being 7s. 6d. in the case of 1,000 acres and over. Applications for land should be made to the Director of Land Settlement, Salisbury or Bulawayo, either direct or through the British South Africa Company's offices at 2 London Wall Buildings, E.C.; 138 Strand, W.C.; or 140 Buchanan Street, Glasgow. Approved applicants are taken by the Company's officials to inspect likely farms, free transport being provided from the nearest railway station or siding. Other land-owning companies are cutting up large blocks of land into farms for general sale. FARMING STATISTICS. PERSONS (WHITE) ENGAGED IN AGRICULTURE AND PASTORAL PURSUITS. District. Males. Females. Bulawayo 564 Charter 155 23 Gwanda 13 Gwelo 150 Hartley 147 1 Melsetter 144 Salisbury 572 Umtali 178 8 Victoria 53 ... 1 1,976 78 21 2 INHO CO 00 101 9 8 ... 104 Land for Settlers TH HE following Companies are prepared to receive offers for land situated in Southern Rhodesia, suitable for Ranching and Agriculture :- Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Company, Limited. Crescens (Matabele) Mines & Lands Company, Limited. Exploring Land & Minerals Company, Limited. Rhodesia Consolidated, Limited. Trust & Agency Assets, Limited. and intending Settlers should address enquiries to The Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co., Ltd., at P.O. Box 4, Bulawayo, or P.O. Box 380, Salisbury, from whom very full particulars can be obtained with regard to land available in each district. 104 Land for Settlers Southern Rhodesia Approved applicants, possessing sufficient capital (minimum £700), are granted farms upon the following terms : AREA.-Farms vary in size from 250 morgen to 3,000 morgen, according to quality, situation, and suitability. Larger areas for ranching purposes may be acquired by arrangement. LAND may be purchased outright, subject to occupation for three years, or may be acquired under permit of occu- pation, in which latter case the Settler enters into an agreement of lease, subject to occupation, with the option of purchase at a previously agreed upon price. PRICE OF LAND.-The present price of unimproved land is about 14/- per morgen [a morgen equals roughly 2 1-9th English acres), but varies according to character and situation. Free transport is given off the railway to approved applicants to inspect land. Rebates are granted on railway fares and rates. Further particulars may be obtained on application to the Director of Land Settlement, British South Africa Company, Salisbury, Southern Rhodesia, or to the Secretary, British South Africa Company, 2, London Wall Buildings, London, E.C. 2 1 NOTE.—These terms are liable to alteration at any time. INFORMATION FOR FARMERS AREA (RURAL) UNDER CROPS, EXCLUSIVE OF VEGETABLE GARDENS. District. Acres. Bulawayo 27,446 Charter 4,336 Gwanda 416 Gwelo 11,278 Hartley 9,101 Melsetter 2,542 Salisbury 63,539 Umtali 10,374 Victoria ... 2,240 :::: ::::::::: ::::::: ::::::::: ::: Total 131,272 833 In urban areas Grand Total ... 132,105 ESTIMATED AREA UNDER CULTIVATION BY NATIVES. District. Acres. Bulawayo 183,050 Charter 88,000 Gwanda 15,000 Gwelo 14,900 Hartley 9,360 Melsetter 15,500 Salisbury 227,786 Umtali 92,277 Victoria 192,300 ::::: ::: Total Cultivated by Europeans 868,173 132,105 Grand Total 1,000,278 ... LIVE STOCK CENSUS. The following are the figures of a detailed stock census which was taken in 1911. Substantial allowance must be made for subsequent increase. It is, for instance, 105 GUIDE TO RHODESIA computed that the number of cattle in the country early in 1914 was about 750,000 head :- OWNED BY WHITE SETTLERS. District. Cattle. Sheep. Goats. Mules & Fowls, Horses. Donkeys Ducks & Geese. Bulawayo Charter Gwanda... Gwelo Hartley Melsetter Salisbury Umtali Victoria... 55,380 13, 202 2,785 16,908 8,873 5,404 40,893 9,661 11,061 12,127 5,617 540 2,766 4,132 12,799 10,958 7,662 1,740 6,315 1,266 1,364 1,892 1,403 4,994 4,400 2,489 814 978 113 44 227 94 59 566 178 74 5,511 533 687 1,056 1,052 548 4,340 1,325 654 10,638 3,160 1,288 3,321 2,871 2,010 7,035 3,198 243 Totals 164,167 58,341 24,937 2,333 15,706 33,764 OWNED BY NATIVES. District. Cattle. Sheep. Goats. Bulawayo Charter Gwanda Gwelo Melsetter... Salisbury Hartley Umtali Victoria 80,090 24,903 12,000 9,350 3,312 37,598 21,904 110,599 106,200 20,362 15,500 13,400 921 187,950 47,556 16,000 27,200 9,066 120,990 44,193 123,743 21,907 10,927 44,814 299,756 234,031 576,698 Totals .. Owned by White Settlers 164,167 58,341 24,937 Grand Totals 463,923 292,372 601,635 106 INFORMATION FOR FARMERS FARMERS' ASSOCIATIONS. Name of Association. Place of Meeting. Secretary. :::: Bindura Thurlow Hotel A. M. Robb. Central Umvuma N. Dainty. Charter-Ngezi Beatrice Mine... W. Krienke. Enterprise Arcturus Hotel J. Watson. Figtree Branch, R.L. and F.A. Figtree Hotel A. Curtis. Gatooma Gatooma Gazaland Chipinga W. Wood. Greystone Roodeheuvel, Shangani H. W. Spencer. Hartley Hartley H. Savory, Headlands Headlands H. Barnes Pope. Insiza Insiza Hotel N. C. St. J. Brerlin. Lalapanzi Lalapanzi Hotel B. Smit. Lomagundi Sinoia J. N. Bateman. Macheke Macheke H. H. Kidson. Makoni Rusapi W. S. Tapson. Makwiro Makwiro A. B. Fraser. Mangwendi Fixed every meeting... Marandellas Marandellas E. P. de Kock. Marula Marula Siding MacW. Ingram. Mashonaland Salisbury W. H. Williamson. Matopo Branch, R.L. and Malundi Hotel W. Bathurst. F.A. Mazoe Various Farm Houses F. C. Peek. Melsetter (North) ... Various Farm Houses Rev. R. Wodehouse & S. J. M. Marais, Midlands ! M. L. Price. Northern Umtali Farm Summerfield** R. O. H. Bleurton. Plumtree Plumtree H. Brooke. Que-Que Globe & Phoenix Hotel E. E. Somerset. Rhodesian Landowners and Bulawayo H. S. Hopkins. Farmers. Shamva Shamva J. M. Moubray. Selukwe Selukwe F. S. Clark. Somabula and Shangani Flats Fairview S. Annandale. Southern Insiza Peggy Hotel, Insiza W. J. B. Harris. Umtali Xmas Pass Hotel J. S. Holland. Umvukwe Hon. J. S. Parker Victoria Victoria J. Rutherford. Gwelo ... 107 IX.-FORESTRY (Extracts from a report by JAMES SIM, F.H.A.S., Forest Department, Union of South Africa.) As compared with similar areas in the Southern States now included in the Union of South Africa, Southern Rhodesia is well wooded, being covered more or less thickly with trees over probably three-fourths of its entire area. Much of the wooded country is covered with scrubby tree growth of little value, except for fuel and charcoal, and the best of the forests contain a very small amount of good marketable timber. The forests throughout are of an open character of the savannah type, and in large tracts are park-like, with individual trees or clumps dotted about on the grassy plains. The trees themselves, besides being sparse, are as a rule of small dimensions, and many of them, although of fair girth, are short boled with heavy spreading crowns, and of little commercial value. A large percentage of the trees have been damaged by veld fires which almost annually go through them, with the result that much of the timber when cut shows serious faults and blemishes, greatly reducing its value. There are, however, large tracts on which much useful timber is standing and which is well worth con- serving, not only for the present value of the timber, but also for the potential value of the forests, which may in time, with rational and systematic management, be greatly improved. The indigenous timbers have been classed as durable and perishable hardwoods. No doubt some are more durable than others, but the term perishable ” is neither apt nor applicable. A large number of the trees give useful timber when properly treated. In any country, trees cut when required irrespective of season and used en, as is done in Rhodesia, could not fail to 108 FORESTRY fall a prey to boring insects and fungoid decay. Many of the timbers, such as mopani, knobby thorn, teak, mahogany, and others, are excellent hardwoods, suitable for any purpose to which such timbers are applicable. The principal faults are: Want of size, unsoundness, and short Jength of bole. Mashuma and mabolo are exceptions to the third fault, having often straight trunks which cut baulks up to 30 or 35 feet, but unfortunately they are so scattered as to make a milling proposition speculative. Many of the timbers mentioned, while heavy and durable, are inclined to be short grained and brittle, and difficult in consequence to dress, but some, such as beukenhout, u'mangwe, and mahobohobo, have a nice straight grain and dress well. These trees, however, do not give baulks of any size. The strongest timbers and those most prized for the mines are mopani, knobby thorn, mahogany, and mahobohobo, while others of less value but much used are mtondo, m'sasa, u'mangwe, m'buti, m'busi, etc. Teak, mahogany, beukenhout, mu’wanga, etc., useful timbers for cabinet work, carriage building, and decorative house work. The coaches on the royal train for the Duke of Connaught were partly built of the former. Many woods are used as wagon woods all over the country. The following are probably the best :- U'mangwe, hartekol, mashuma, mabolo, mahogany, m'nondo, mu’wanga, and others. For fencing, kraal posts, and posts for building, several varieties may be used. The following are, however, perhaps the best :- Beukenhout (isidwadwa), wild wistaria (umpaca), mu’wanga, ironwood and white pear (Combretum), and wild olive, while any tree with a heart which stands white ants and borers may be used. are 109 C. H. Zeederberg, Ltd. Established in Rhodesia in 1893. P.O. Box 165. Telegraphic Address: “ PIONEER."; BULAWAYO And at Selukwe, Matopos, Antelope, Umtali, Pietersburg (Transvaal), and numerous Agencies. Government Mail, Transport and Cartage Contractors. Commisssion and Forwarding Agents. Extensive Plant, consisting of BUCKBOARDS, WAGONETTES, COACHES, TROLLIES and WAGONS. SHOOTING PARTIES We can fit out parties, and cater for same to any. part of Rhodesia. TOURISTS AND VISITORS advised, and arrangements made for visiting the World's View, Khami Ruins, or bther interesting parts of the country. If you require any information, drop us a line, and same shall have our immediate attention. sto DEWARS “Imperial Institute WHISKY Branch Offices: 56, Rissik Street, Johannesburg. BIG GAME found nearly all the species which Osborne and Gordon Cumming hunted and wrote about in the early days of Bechuanaland, while to the north of the Zambesi exist many of the species common to tropical Africa ; others, such as the lechwe and the sitatunga, are apparently peculiar to the Zambesi or its northern tributaries. The lechwe is plentiful on the Kafue, and during the winter months feeds on the vast flat plains which, swamps in summer, are during the winter, when the inundations have subsided and the mat of floating water grass has been burnt, a smiling plain of bright green vegetation. The sitatunga also inhabits the thick reed beds of the Kafue and Upper Zambesi, from which it rarely emerges during daylight. This antelope, although quite numerous, is so nocturnal in its habits that it may exist in considerable numbers without its presence being suspected by the hunter. The sitatunga is sometimes called the water koodoo; it swims and dives and walks about among the reed beds, supporting itself upon the reed stalks by means of its long, wide open hoofs, which resemble the open prongs of a forked stick. Owing to its habits it is extremely difficult to shoot ; but just before the rains, when the country is driest, the natives surround and fire the reed beds, spearing and shooting the bewildered sitatunga as they break from cover. The sable is, perhaps, the most typical of the Rhodesian antelope, is the most widely distributed, and the most numerous ; and the number of sable antelope which have been destroyed since the Occupation in 1890 must be enormous. To the sable no kind of country is un- suitable, save the low-lying jungles on the big rivers, although even in these localities so totally unfitted to his tastes and temperament, he is sometimes found. He is a great fighter, the antithesis of the gentle and harmless koodoo, and a wounded sable must be approached with caution. The sweep of his sharp, curved, horns has proved fatal to more than one man, while many a lion has paid with his life the penalty of a faulty spring. Sable are specially dangerous to dogs, and will almost III GUIDE TO RHODESIA are entirely destroy the hunter's carefully collected pack of lion dogs if these happen on the blood spoor of a wounded sable and attempt to pull him down. In Rhodesia, the true home of the sable is the granite country where, during the heat of the day, he rests and ruminates in the shade of the plumed acacia or under the branches of the massive teak tree, feeding in the glades during the early morning or in the cool of the afternoon. Koodoo and rhinoceroses now plentiful in certain localities, while roan and sable antelope, waterbuck, hartebeeste and Burchell's zebra abound in the hunting veld ; and although civilisation has caused the game to disappear in the districts where the white population is congregated, it is still numerous and increasing in the places where neither mineral nor agricultural prospects have tempted the white settlers. Koodoo, perhaps the finest of the South African antelope, suffered heavily from the disease called rinderpest, which attacked the game and cattle of Southern Rhodesia in 1895-6, and this species was once thought to be almost extinct. In reality this was not the case ; it was the nocturnal habits of the koodoo and the predilection they have for thorn thickets and other close cover that gave rise to this supposition. Elephants and Buffalo. To-day, south of the Zambesi, elephants, practically free from persecution at the hands of man, roam in the Machabela forests, occasionally descending upon some remote native settlement to feed upon the sweet stalks of the young mealie plants and kaffir corn. The buffalo suffered most severely from rinderpest and, as they are not protected by law, owing to the now exploded theory that they, and they alone, were re- sponsible for the tsetse fly, were at one time in real danger of complete annihilation. However, in spite of the rinderpest and the fact that they can be shot at all times and in all places, they still exist and have increased, although the small troops which inhabit the roughest and thickest jungle, seldom venturing into the open II2 BIG GAME during daylight, are but a pitiful remnant of the herds which were to be found feeding in the open during the pre-rinderpest days. To-day one rarely hears of men killed or injured by buffalo, but when they were more numerous, accidents in the pursuit of this game were of frequent occurrence, and only a year or so ago the Native Commissioner of the Lomagundi district was killed by a wounded buffalo under most distressing circumstances. Lions. In Rhodesia, wherever there is big game there are also lions, although, like all beasts of prey, lions are seldom seen in daylight. The beginning of the rains is the time of year when they are most likely to be seen, as the ground is then soft and cool, and they have not the same objection to walking about after daylight as they have during the winter months, when the hot, dry ground plays havoc with their feet; also at this latter season of the year the grass has not yet grown, and they are therefore more easily seen. It is generally agreed that the lion is the most dangerous of all Rho- He is quick, and his power to do harm is enormous, for he can cause death with a stroke of his paw or one grip of his jaws; while he can take cover in places which would afford no concealment to an ele- phant, a rhino, or a buffalo. These three latter animals all have defective sight and do not destroy their fellow- creatures for food, whereas the lion has excellent sight, smell, and hearing, and lives by attacking and killing other animals many of which are well equipped for defence and are sometimes stronger than himself. Lions are undoubtedly not desirous of risking encounters with Europeans, but this fact does not flurry them when a meeting occurs. Hunters or others whose calling or taste takes them into the veld must constantly pass close to lions which quietly watch them as they go by and then calmly walk off in an opposite direction. They have become very shy of giving a chance in the open, with the result that few are shot dead, while numbers are wounded and then invariably take refuge desian game. 113 GUIDE TO RHODESIA in close cover where the chances are all in their favour. In consequence, in spite of the most deadly modern rifles, the number of men mauled by wounded lions continues to be high. It can be laid down as an almost invariable rule that, except at night, an unwounded lion will not attack a European in any circumstances ; but that when wounded and brought to bay he will always do so. In Rhodesia there is at present no danger of the game becoming extinct from ordinary causes. V.G. GAME LAWS, ETC. Under the Game Law Consolidation Ordinance, No. 13, of 1906, game in Southern Rhodesia is divided into three classes :- Class A.-All varieties of the following birds--namely, bustard (including koorhaan and paauw), dikkop, francolin (including pheasant and partridge), guinea fowl, sand-grouse (commonly known as Namaqua partridge), and all species of the antelope family not contained in the classes B and C. Class B.-BushĎuck, hartebeeste (rooi and Lichtenstein), impala, lechwe, pookoo, roan and sable antelope, sitatunga, tsessibe, waterbuck, and gnu or wildebeeste. Class C.-(Royal Game).-Eland, elephant, giraffe, gems. bok, hippopotamus, inyala, koodoo, ostrich, rhinoceros (black and white), springbuck, zebra, Burchell zebra or quagga. Game specified in Class A can be killed under an ordinary game licence costing £1, which is operative only during the shooting season in which it is issued. Game in Class B can be killed under a licence which is issued to persons domiciled in Rhodesia, at £5, and to persons not domiciled in the country, at £25. The holder of a game licence for Class B can shoot three head only of each of the species of game enumerated, or if he elects to shoot more than three head of any one species in that class, then not more than 15 head of game in all. The Administrator has power specially to authorise the holder of one of these licences to increase the number 15 up to an aggregate of 25 head, upon payment of a further sum of £5 by persons domiciled, 114 (1) Waterbuck. (2) Wildebeeste. 115 Big-game hunting : (1) Buffalo. (2) Elephant, weight'of tusks 44 lbs. each. 116 BIG GAME and £15 by such as are not domiciled, in Southern Rhodesia. A licence to shoot game in Class B operates only during the shooting season in which it is issued. Game in Class C can only be killed or captured under a special permit from the Administrator, who has discretionary power to issue such permit to the holder of a game licence on payment of a sum of £5, provided that such special permit is only issued where the animals specified in Class C are actually required for scientific purposes, to be stated in the application for such permit. Any permit to kill or capture game under Class C is strictly limited, both as regards numbers and period of operation. The present close or fence season in Southern Rhodesia for game in Class A is from November 1st until April 30th (the close season for birds commences on October 1st in Mashonaland), and for the game in Class B from December 1st to June 30th. The holder of a game licence is not entitled to kill or pursue game on the land of another person without having previously obtained the permission of the owner or occupier thereof. The best districts for hunting big game are Tuli, Gwanda, Lower Belingwe, Hartley, Wankie, Mafung- abusi, Lomagundi, Sebungwe, portion of Gwelo, Vic- toria, and Bubi, Lower Mangwe, and North Mazoe. Persons hunting in fly-infested districts, where game is most abundant, will be unable to get any wagon transport, and will have to rely on native carriers, who can be hired at reasonable rates, or pack donkeys. A couple of good horses are essential for hunting big game; these can be bought at from £40 to £70 each. Bullock or donkey transport can usually be obtained at about 30s. per day per team and wagon. Where a party of sportsmen wish to go on a hunting trip, it would be advisable for them to make arrangements with an experienced hunter in the country to supply a complete outfit at a given price ; this can be done at a reasonable cost. Owing to the risk of carrying infectious disease of 117 GUIDE TO RHODESIA stock, the Bechuanaland Protectorate authorities pro- hibit the transport of game-horns, heads, and hides through Bechuanaland, except under permit from the Resident Commissioner at Mafeking, who, before issuing such permit, requires a veterinary certificate that the trophies have been properly disinfected. Excellent bird shooting can be obtained in parts of the country, guinea-fowl, pheasant, and partridge, amongst other varieties, being plentiful. EQUIPMENT FOR GAME SHOOTING. Shotguns. For birds and small buck a shotgun is most useful. This should be a strong double-barrel 12-bore gun; it can be of plain quality, either with hammer or hammerless. For transport the gun should be packed in a strong canvas or leather case, containing also the usual cleaning outfit, and a can of refined Rangoon oil. For this purpose the square gun case with a good lock is most suitable. On shooting trips in districts where lions can be expected, the sportsman is well advised to have some cartridges loaded with S.S.G. shot at hand, so as to be prepared for a sudden attack. It is a fact that lions have been killed at a short distance with S.S.G. shot. Rifles. For big game only, nothing smaller or less powerful than a 400 bore high velocity (nitro) rifle should be used, though it is quite possible to kill elephants with a medium, or even with a small bore rifle. The double-barrel rifle must be considered as the most suitable weapon for big-game shooting, though its heavy weight is a disadvantage. Single barrel, underlever, high power rifles, of .500, 470, or •400 bore, very useful weapons, are also, however, obtainable. Lately, large bore high velocity magazine rifles have been made, of which the bullets have enormous power (about 5,100 feet lb. muzzle energy). Re-loading can be achieved in a shorter time than in the case of the underlever rifle. The sportsman armed with a large bore rifle will always require a second weapon of medium or small 118 BIG GAME bore for smaller game, and it is advisable that this second rifle should be sufficiently effective, so that it can be successfully used against big game. For this purpose there are medium bore rifles of high power 318, 375, 333, 350, 360 or 9 (355) Mauser with shooting bullets of not less than 250 rains and a muzzle velocity of at least 2,000 feet seconds. There are also rifles which can be called “ all-round rifles,” and which may be used for all kinds of game. When big game or lions are not expected, there are small bore rifles, such as the .303, 7.9 m/m or m/m Mauser, 8 m/m (315) or 6.5 m/m (256) Mannlicher, and also the .280 or •275 Magnum. The two last - mentioned, owing to the extremely high velocity of their light pointed bullets, are most accurate, and have been used with great success on big game, but the general opinion in Rhodesia does not seem to favour the use of light bullets for anything big. Rifles and shotguns of various bores by reputed British makers are always obtainable in Rhodesia. In fact, the rifles are built according to the requirements of the country and therefore are more suitable than those usually sold in England. Only high-class, double- barrel nitro-powder rifles—which it is advisable to have built specially—are sportsmen who intend to go on a shooting trip in Rhodesia advised to have made to order in England, and then only by a gun-maker of high reputation. Double - barrel rifles for black powder ammunition, even if this contains a corresponding charge of smokeless powder, are things of the past and of very little use in Rhodesia. Ammunition of practically every description is obtainable in the country also, as well as all shooting requisites and accessories; while repairs to firearms, including restocking, can be carried out locally in a satisfactory manner. In every case prices are most moderate. 119 XI.-COMMERCE By GEORGE JOHNSON, late President of the Bulawayo Chamber of Commerce. THE connecting link between Rhodesian trade of past days and the commerce of the last two decades was the trader who set out from various parts of South Africa with his tent, wagon, and span of oxen. Often hunting and trading were combined. The trader provided himself with blankets, beads, limbo, and cheap hardware, with which to barter for ivory, ostrich feathers, cattle, horns, and curios of many kinds. He was usually welcomed by the chiefs and indunas, and, subject to certain restrictions, was allowed to trek through the country to trade with the natives, and to shoot game for food, as well as for ivory, horns and skins. The old-time trader of course disappeared with the advent of the present regime; and shortly after the Occupation it became possible for the storekeeper to build and open his shanty by the wayside. Then towns sprang up and corrugated iron stores appeared, soon to be followed by the more pretentious buildings of brick and stone, so that to-day goods of the latest style and fashion can be bought in great variety in all the larger towns. The trade of the country has, with some fluctuations, gradually increased, and in the main exports and imports have run along parallel lines ; this was particularly marked in the years 1905 to 1908. Since then the imports have increased much more quickly than the exports, a circumstance which has resulted in a certain amount of overtrading. This is an evil that will no doubt right itself in course of time, but for the present it is certain that the wants of the population are over- provided for. The following figures taken from the Customs returns give a good idea of the volume of business and the pro- portion of exports to imports. The figures are for the thirteen years ended December 31st, 1913. The imports are for merchandise for consumption (i.e., exclusive of specie and re-exports) and include the cost of importation I20 COMMERCE (without Customs duty). The figures given for exports are exclusive of specie and imported goods re-exported Imports. Exports. 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 ::::::: £2,121,556 2,651,874 2,638,348 1,582,959 1,470,571 1,892,315 2,191,624 2,622,891 2,860,648 3,402,252 3,932,290 4.039,988 4,340,505 £610,000 688,000 857,000 1,005,000 1,532,593 1,961,453 2,319,250 2,614,496 2,805,607 2,812,037 2,850,762 2,975,100 3,297,099 The premier industry of the country being gold mining, the state of general trade must for the present depend to a very large extent upon the success and extent of mining operations. In 1912 the exports amounted to almost three million sterling, gold account- ing for over 24 millions ; tobacco was exported to the value of £36,634 ; chrome ore, £154,601 ; hides and skins £18,526 ; maize, £6,694 ; diamonds, £2,051. The relative importance of the industrial and trading factors in the country is shown by the following analyses, which are of the value of the goods imported during 1911 from overseas (exclusive of specie and Government merchandise). The factors come under four headings, viz. : Mining, Agriculture, Native, and General.” Under the first three heads appear the value of the goods which have without doubt been specially imported either for mining or agriculture or for the special use of the natives. The balance of the imports can be put under the head of General." Analysing on these lines the figures are as follow :- Mining. Agriculture. Natives. General. £486,000 £70,000 £314,000 £1,829,620 I21 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 66 This gives a total of £2,699,620. The amount under the heading of General can be divided up between Mining, Agriculture, Native, and “For other Purposes.” The population of the country is directly or indirectly for the most part connected with one or other of these factors or divisions ; in 1911, the population totalled 25,000. The figure of £1,829,620, under the head of "General," divided by the figure of population, gives an average of £73 per head. This sum includes food, drink, imported tobacco, pharmacy, furniture, clothing, jewel- lery, etc., etc. Comparatively few white persons are solely engaged with natives apart from mining and agricul- ture; these are a certain number of Native Commis- sioners, traders, and the staffs of the Native Labour Bureau and of the Government Native Department, probably from 300 to 400 at the outside, so that the white persons directly connected with natives take only about £30,000 from the head of General im- ports. With regard to agriculture, it is probably safe to estimate that not more than 10,000 people are directly and indirectly connected with this industry. At £73 each they consume £730,000, leaving for mining and other purposes £1,069,620. The odd £9,620 is prob- ably sufficient to cover the overseas value of the con- sumption of goods by tourists and other people not connected with the factors mentioned, which gives the figure to be credited to mining as £1,060,000. On this analysis, the overseas value of the imports is divided in the following way >> Specially Imported. Indirectly Imported. Total. Mining Agriculture... Native Other Purposes £486,000 70,000 314,000 £1,060,000 730,000 30,000 £1,546,000 800,000 344,000 9,620 If these figures are approximately correct, they show that the mining industry is responsible for more than 122 COMMERCE one-half of the imports ; and when it is remembered that, but for the wages paid to them by those engaged in mining operations and those whose business is connected with mining, the natives would have little money to spend, it will be seen how much really does depend on the industry. The farmers also depend almost entirely on the mines for their markets. It would therefore probably be correct to say that the premier industry is responsible for at least three-quarters of the imports. The only industries of any importance that are quite independent of mining are tobacco-growing, fruit- growing, ranching, and mealie growing for export, and perhaps the trade with tourists. Native Trade. The native trade is of considerable importance. If to the figure of £314,000 were added say 50 per cent. to 60 per cent., the approximate cost of ocean freight, railage and customs dues, and also the wholesale and retail profits, it would probably be found that the annual turn- over was from £750,000 to £1,000,000, which is equivalent to not less than £l per head for every native man, woman, and child. In connection with native trade, it is interesting to note that, owing to contact with civilisa- tion, the natives are beginning to buy ploughs and other agricultural implements, and are also cultivating a taste for bicycles, sewing machines, cigarettes, and golden syrup, as well as for European clothes and hard- ware ; trade in these lines may be expected to increase as more natives from the outside districts come into direct contact with European civilisation. As previously pointed out, the future of the farmer is largely bound up with the progress of mining. The natives employed by the mining companies, tributors, and individual workers have to be fed, and there are large demands for beef, mealies, mealie meal, pumpkins, monkey nuts, and other produce. Apart from these, there is a demand at the mines for tobacco, fruit, forage, and vegetables. he tobacco industry is thriving. With the development of ranching the day will probably 123 GUIDE TO RHODESIA come when large quantities of canned beef will be ex- ported. And every effort is being made to build up a citrus growing industry which shall be a factor in the world's markets. All such enterprise will have a direct and highly beneficial effect upon the prosperity of the mercantile community. Trading Centres. The chief trade centres are Bulawayo, Salisbury, Umtali, Gwelo, Gatooma, and Victoria. In addition, there are stores scattered about in various parts of the country, and at some places groups of stores, as at Selukwe, Plumtree, Hartley, Penhalonga, Que-Que, Melsetter, Enkeldoorn, and Gwanda. Bulawayo has always been the most important commercial centre. It has the advantage of being a railway centre of con- siderable importance, and is the headquarters of the Railway administration. Being, as it is, the junction for the Victoria Falls, and also the halting-place for those who visit Rhodes's grave in the Matopos, it is the town most visited by tourists. Further, its trade is substantially added to by reason of its being at present the nearest town of any importance to Elisabethville, which is the lead- ing town in the Katanga district of the Belgian Congo. There are Chambers of Commerce at Bulawayo, Salisbury, Gwelo, Umtali, Gatooma, and Victoria, which discuss and deal with such subjects as railway matters generally, regulation of holidays, hours of trading, Customs, telephone service, credit, and various other matters affecting the welfare of the mercantile com- munity. The chief centres, however, are Bulawayo and Salisbury, and the Chambers of Commerce of both are affiliated with the Associated Chambers of Commerce of South Africa. The trade of Southern Rhodesia is liable to severe fluctuations, as is often the case in young countries. It is, however, on a solid footing, and is slowly expand- ing, though the impetus is not sufficiently great to allow of the country absorbing at present large numbers of settlers who are bent on starting mercantile businesses. 124 XII.-EDUCATION By L. M. FOGGIN, M.A. (Oxon), Inspector of Schools, Southern Rhodesia. THE early beginnings of education for European children in Southern Rhodesia date from the year 1895, in which year schools were opened in Bulawayo, Salisbury, and Gwelo, by the efforts of various religious denomi- nations. The English and Roman Catholic Churches were the pioneers in the educational movement, and their work was from its inception assisted by small Government grants. In 1899, the growing importance of education led the Legislative Assembly to pass the first Education Ordinance. This provided for Government aid to un- denominational and voluntary (i.e., denominational or semi-denominational) public schools, on the £ for £ principle. At this time, eight schools in the Territory were in receipt of Government aid. Under the Education Ordinance of 1899, an Education Department was created, a Superintending Inspector of Schools and a small office staff were appointed, and regulations allowing £ for £ grants by Government to schools, whether denominational or undenominational in which the enrolment should reach 25 children, were brought into force. The first Superintending Inspector of Schools was Mr. H. E. D. Hammond, M.A. (Cantab.), but for reasons of health his tenure of office lasted only about twelve months, and in June, 1901, he was suc- ceeded by Mr. George Duthie, M.A (Aberdeen), B.A. (Cantab.), F.R.S.E., under whose guidance the Education Department has reached its present stage of expansion. In order more efficiently to meet the needs of a growing community, scattered over a very large area and living under conditions varying very greatly in different dis- tricts, a new Education Ordinance was brought into force in 1903. It modified the conditions under which Government aid might be granted to public schools for European children ; provided for grants-in-aid of school boarding houses, schools for coloured children and for natives, loans for school buildings, and aid 125 GUIDE TO RHODESIA towards the rental of buildings used for school purposes ; and finally, in a short, but very important paragraph, authorised the Administrator to establish and maintain, where necessary, schools entirely from public funds. It possessed two great advantages over the former Ordinance, viz : (i) Greater elasticity which allowed the Education Department to work largely by ad- ministrative regulation and so meet the varying needs of different parts of the country ; (2) the abolition of the minimum of 25 pupils which the former Ordinance had required as a necessary preliminary to the granting of Government aid. The full benefit of the new legis- lation was not, however, felt at once, on account of a period of depression which set in during the year 1904, and continued throughout the two following years. In the year 1907, however, confidence was restored, and population and revenue began to expand. The benefits of the Ordinance of 1903 now began to appear, and in recent years the progress of public education has been rapid and substantial. The exact position may be seen from the following table which gives the number of pupils enrolled, the number of schools receiving Government aid, and the public expenditure upon education in each year :- Year. Pupils. Schools. Expenditure.* 15 1900 444 9 £2,402 1901 537 11 3,413 1902 569 13 4,360 1903 630 14 6,480 1904 596 14 6,435 1905 611 5,540 1906 733 18 5,516 1907 841 20 7,943 1908 1,013 22 11,173 1909 1,212 24 19,229 1910 1,623 33 23,980 1911 2,138 39 42,788 1912 2,530 49 55,896 *These amounts do not include capital expenditure upon school buildings and permanent works., 126 EDUCATION >> In connection with the foregoing it may be remarked that while the number of schools directly maintained by Government was three in 1903 and remained station- ary until the end of 1906, it began to increase in the following year, since when progressive annual increases have been the rule. Thus, schools classed as public in the strict sense of the word numbered four in 1907, ten in 1908, 16 in 1909, 28 in 1910, 34 in 1911, and 44 at the end of 1912. The number of " aided ” schools gradually fell from 15 at the end of 1906 to five at the end of 1912. In the same period the number of pupils receiving education in public schools rose from 98 to 1,903, while the number in schools aided by Govern. ment, which was 635 at the end of 1906, increased gradually to over 800 at the end of 1908, but has since declined, now, at the end of 1912, standing at 627. The five aided schools now in existence are the St. George's School for boys, maintained by the Jesuit Fathers in Bulawayo, the three Dominican Convent Schools, in Salisbury, Bulawayo, and Gwelo, and the Plumtree School. The first four of these belong to types sufficiently well known both in Great Britain and in the Colonies ; but the Plumtree School needs special mention on account of the somewhat unusual nature of its constitution and management. It was founded in the year 1902 by the English Church autho- rities," who were urged thereto by the South Africa Railway Mission, with the special object of providing education for the scattered population of railwaymen living at widely distant points on the Rhodesian rail- way system. Until recently, it met the needs of the local population which has sprung up in the immediate neighbourhood of Plumtree. It is now, however, entirely a boarding school. From the outset, assistance was given to the school by Government; and in course of time a very considerable, and gradually increasing, proportion of the expense of maintaining the school fell to the share of the State. The railways have also made large indirect contributions to its support. The control of the school is, owing to these circumstances, 127 GUIDE TO RHODESIA in the hands of a council, consisting of nominees of the English Church, the railway administration, and the Government, in equal numbers. The figures quoted above are in themselves notable, and they betoken a change due partly to natural causes, and partly to the adoption of a forward policy of public education. The natural causes referred to are, first, the growth of population, and, secondly, the financial limitations which make it impossible for a voluntary system, even with State aid, to cover the whole ground of public education. The other factor referred to, viz : the educational policy of the Government, was the out- come of a widely expressed opinion on the part of the public, focussed in the report of the Education Com- mittee of 1908. The recommendations of this Committee which sat in the early part of 1908, and made its report at the end of March of that year, were briefly to the following effect :- (1) That the Government should assume direct responsi- bility for and control of primary education. (2) That Advisory School Committees should be established in connection with public schools. (3) That, as far as practicable, primary education should be made compulsory. (4) That the right of entry of ministers of religion into the schools, for the purpose of giving denominational religious instruction to the children belonging to their respective churches, should be continued. (5) That English should be the sole medium of instruction in public schools. (6) That special steps should be taken to meet the neces- sities of the rural population by establishing farm schools wherever eight children of school age could be gathered together, and by means of boarding grants enabling children from the country to take advantage of the better facilities for education provided in the towns. (7) That school fees should be charged to parents, pro- vision being made for partial or entire exemption in the case of children of indigent parents. (8) That the Government should take steps to provide centralised secondary education. 128 The Educational System : (1) High School, Salisbury, showing the Beit Statue. (2) Eveline High School, Bulawayo. (3) A High School Boarding House. 129 E (1) Milton High School, Bulawayo. (2) St. George's School, Bulawayo. (3) Gaul's House, Plumtree School. 130 EDUCATION >> (9) That manual training for boys, and domestic training for girls should be introduced into the public schools. (10) That special day and evening classes in scientific subjects should be encouraged as a practical step towards the provision, when required, of definite technical training. Scholarships and Grants. A most important factor in the expansion of the Rhodesian educational system was the establishment in the year 1908 of a body of trustees under the will of the late Mr. Alfred Beit, who made a munificent bequest of £200,000 for 6 educational, charitable, and other public purposes in Rhodesia. The Trustees have contributed very materially to aid education in the Territory, especially in the following ways :- (1) The provision of 20 Beit Scholarships annually, of £40 a year for three years, to enable promising children to obtain secondary education in the higher schools of Rhodesia at very small expense to their parents. (2) The grant of a sum not exceeding £2,000 a year for boarding grants of not more than £20 per annum per child, to enable children whose homes lie outside a walking radius of any school which provides suitable education to attend boarding schools in the Territory. (3) The provision of two grants of £50 per annum for the purpose of enabling lady students and acting teachers in Rhodesia to obtain professional training as teachers, at the Ladies' Training College, Grahamstown. (4) The provision of not more than three Beit Bursaries annually for students who have matriculated in Rhodesia (the award of these bursaries is at present limited to male students who have passed the Cape Üniversity Matriculation Examination in the first and second classes) to enable them to attend any college of university standing in South Africa. (5) The allocation of funds to provide education, and in some cases board and clothing in addition, for destitute and orphan children within the Territory. In addition, it is understood that the Trustees have made loans (repayable with interest) to the Administra- tion to enable it to erect and equip boarding houses in con- nection with the Government High Schools in Salisbury and Bulawayo. Under this arrangement, four large 131 E 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA boarding houses, admirably designed and equipped, have been erected, one each for boys and girls in Bula- wayo and Salisbury. Each provides accommodation for about 70 boarders, and all are practically full. These boarding houses have been of the greatest service in enabling the Administration to carry out the policy recommended by the Education Committee of 1908, of concentrating public secondary education as far as possible in Salisbury and Bulawayo. The beneficial results of this policy have made themselves appa- rent in the already long list of successes secured by the schools to which these boarding houses are attached, in the Matriculation and Junior Certificate Examina- tions conducted by the University of the Cape of Good Hope. At this point it is fitting to mention the magnificent endowments which Rhodesia possesses in the Rhodes Scholarships, secured to the country in perpetuity under the famous will of Mr. Rhodes. Three of these scholarships are open for competition annually among Rhodesian candidates ; each of them is of the value of £300 per annum, and is tenable for three years in the University of Oxford. It is perfectly safe to assert that, in proportion to population, no other country in the world is so richly endowed as Rhodesia in the matter of scholarships. This is shown by the fact that up to the present neither Rhodes Scholarships nor Beit Bursaries have been taken up to the full available extent, owing to the lack of a sufficient number of quali- fied candidates. The deterrent conditions are, in the case of the Beit Bursaries, that the candidate must have obtained a first or second class pass in the Cape University Matriculation, and, in the case of Rhodes Scholarships, that the candidate must have passed the Oxford Responsions and the Cape University Intermediate Examinations or their equivalents. The Rhodesian boy of ability, by means of Beit Scholarships, Beit Bursaries, and Rhodes Scholarships, finds the complete educational ladder firmly erected and waiting to be climbed. As he emerges from the 132 EDUCATION local school, which provides him with primary education, he is enabled to obtain the earlier part of his secondary education by means of a boarding grant, and, where necessary, of free tuition. If he shows himself possessed of distinct ability he can obtain a Beit Scholarship after a year's work in the secondary school. With the aid of this he may reach the stage of Matriculation at which point his school career ends. He is then eligible (if he has distinguished himself in the Matri- culation Examination) for a Beit Bursary; and this carries him on, during his one, two, or three years' residence at one of the University Institutions of South Africa, to a point at which he is enabled to enter the University of Oxford, not as an ordinary “ freshman,” with the ordinary degree course before him, but as a more advanced student ready to enter the avenues by which the learned and practical professions may be directly reached in a minimum of time. At the same time he comes into contact with all the manifold influences of culture, taste, and refinement which the University of Oxford affords in so pre-eminent a degree. It cannot be said that the Rhodesian girl is so fully pro- vided with opportunities for obtaining higher education of the best type. She is eligible for Beit Scholarships, and having come to the end of her time as a Beit Scholar she may proceed for special training as a teacher to the Grahamstown Ladies' Training College, by means of one of the Special Beit Grants for Lady Teachers. In so far as she is dependent upon the aid of scholarships to complete her education it is thus apparent that her outlook is by no means so wide as that of the Rhodesian boy. It may be remarked, however, that in a country where women are in so pronounced a numerical minority, the hardship is less severe than it appears, for marriage absorbs the great majority of the young women of Rhodesia, and heavily depletes the number of women students available for professional careers. Still there can be no doubt that, whenever it may be proved that the effects of the theoretical disadvantage to women are 133 GUIDE TO RHODESIA actually felt, a remedy will speedily become available by the action of the Beit Trustees. Technical Education, The provision of technical and university education within Rhodesia has not yet become a matter of practical politics, nor is it likely to be so for many years to come. A total population of 30,000 is quite inadequate to allow any possibility of vitality in such institutions ; and until conditions are greatly altered, the establish- ment of an adequate system of scholarships provides all the necessary facilities at a reasonable cost, and with much greater efficiency. It may be mentioned, however, that there is a small demand at Umtali for education of a technical description. This demand is due to the presence in Umtali of the engineering shops of the Rhodesian system of railways ; and it is met by the provision by the Department of evening classes, the teaching of which is shared by members of the school and railway technical staffs. It is quite probable that similar demands may arise elsewhere in the country wherever there is a staple industry supporting a large proportion of the whole population of the locality ; and in such an event, steps similar to those taken at Umtali will, no doubt, meet the case for some time to come. even Higher Education. From the table given in the earlier part of the chapter it may be seen that the rate of progress in education in Rhodesia was materially accelerated in the year 1910, and has continued at the higher rate since that time. There is, however, an more important development dating from 1910, viz., the inauguration of a system of High Schools, localised in Salisbury and Bulawayo, and equipped with boarding houses in order to meet the demand for higher education throughout the Territory. In this connection it should be understood that the establishment of public High Schools was not in any sense a reflection upon the char- 134 EDUCATION acter of the instruction given in the older-established “aided ” schools which were then, and are still, under- taking work of the secondary type. One of the latter in particular, St. George's School, Bulawayo, has done good work in this respect for a number of years past. The inauguration of public high schools was in response to a public demand, and the urgency of the demand may be gauged by the fact that these four schools, viz. :- The Milton High School, Bulawayo (for boys): The Eveline High School, Bulawayo (for girls). The Boys' High School, Salisbury, and The High School for Girls, Salisbury, are now among the largest schools in the Territory and together included 813 children at the end of 1912. The amounts expended in grants to native mission schools in Southern Rhodesia have been as follow : In 1907, £787 ; in 1908, £1,192 ; in 1909, £1,744 ; in 1910, £2,760 ; in 1911, £3,470 ; and in 1912, £3,931. The number of such schools is now close upon 200, and their enrolment consists of not less than 16,000 pupils. The instruction given is of a very elementary nature, but it includes, in many cases, the teaching of the English language, while industrial instruction is specially encouraged in boys' and domestic training in girls' schools. The following is a summary of the educational position at the end of 1912 : SCHOOLS OPEN :- 4 High schools. 21 Town, village and mine schools. 19 Farm schools. 5 Aided schools. 49 PUPILS :- 1,903 in Public schools. 627 in Aided schools. 2,530 135 GUIDE TO RHODESIA TEACHERS :- 108 in Public schools, including 79 with Teachers' Pro- fessional certificates, and 17 graduates of British or Colonial universities. 50 in Aided schools.' 158 > The training given in schools includes, in addition to the ordinary school subjects, science and woodwork for boys, and botany, dressmaking, and domestic work for girls, in the larger centres. School sports include football, cricket, hockey, basket-ball, gymnastics, boxing, and rifle-shooting; and flourishing cadet corps and patrols of Boy Scouts are in existence in connection with the principal boys' schools. School gardening, Nature-study and hygiene are encouraged wherever possible, and no fewer than 29 schools possess libraries, containing in all about 6,000 volumes. Coloured schools in which special stress is laid upon manual training are aided in Salisbury and Bulawayo ; and no fewer than 186 native schools earned grants in 1912 under the Education Ordinance. Over £6,000 altogether (£2,000 contributed by the Beit Trustees) was spent in 1912 in boarding grants enabling children living at a distance from educational centres to attend school, and boarding establishments are maintained in connection with schools in Salisbury (3), Bulawayo (4), Gwelo (2), Umtali, Plumtree, Melsetter, and Victoria, the total number of boarders in residence being 590. In order to assist him in his work, the Director of Education has a staff of three inspectors of schools (now stationed in Salisbury, Bulawayo, and Umtali respectively), and a clerical staff of five persons. A further point worthy of mention is the great activity witnessed in the last few years in regard to the erection of school buildings. The buildings of the four high schools date from 1910; in addition to these, fine new school buildings or additions to older buildings have been erected since 1909 at Umtali, Gwelo, Que-Que, 136 EDUCATION Gatooma, Selukwe, Melsetter, Enkeldoorn, Bushtick, Hillside (Bulawayo), Bulawayo (the Primary School), and Raylton (Bulawayo)—the last-named building generously provided by the railway authorities to provide for the education of the children of their em- ployees in Bulawayo. The four high schools in Bula- wayo and Salisbury and the public schools at Gwelo and Melsetter have been provided with handsome and commodious school boarding houses, and very considerable help has been given to the Plumtree School to enable it to build suitable accommodation for about 40 boarders. Within the same period the Convent Schools at Salisbury and Bulawayo and St. George's School, Bulawayo, have also made very con- siderable additions to class-room and boarding accom- modation. The total cost of this large building pro- gramme is considerably in excess of £100,000 sterling. All these facts go to show that the Administration of Southern Rhodesia has recognised very fully and effectively its responsibility for the education of the children of the country. It may, indeed, safely be asserted that no young country has ever put forth more strenuous efforts than Southern Rhodesia to cope with its educational problems. The foundations of national education have been well and truly laid, and the superstructure is being added in that broad, liberal and confident spirit which best expressed the mind of the great master-builder of the country, Cecil John Rhodes, School fees range from : Kindergarten classes, £3 per annum ; upper standards, £6 per annum. A good deal of the education in the territory is provided free. Board- ing charges do not, as a rule, exceed £50 a year. Vacancies on the teaching staffs are filled through the Education Department. - 137 David Livingstone. 139 Church of England, Bulawayo. 140 CHURCHES AND MISSIONS For thirty years his life was spent in an unwearied effort to evangelise the native races, to explore the undiscovered secrets, And abolish the desolating slave trade of Central Africa Where, with his last words he wrote: “ All I can say in my solitude is, may Heaven's rich blessing come down on everyone-American, English, Turk—who will help to heal this open sore of the world." Along the right border of the stone are the words :- Tantus amor veri, nihil est quod noscere malin quam fluvii causas per sæcula tanta latentes. Along the left border :- Other sheep I have which are not of this fold, Them also I must bring, and they shall hear my voice. THE ENGLISH CHURCH. The Diocese of Mashonaland embraces not only the whole of Southern Rhodesia but also, on the east, all the Portuguese territory which lies between the Zambesi and the Sabi rivers, and, on the west, a portion of the Bechuanaland Protectorate. It has been sug- gested that the name of the diocese should be changed to Southern Rhodesia.” Early in 1888, Dr. G. W. H. Knight-Bruce, Bishop of Bloemfontein, undertook a pioneering missionary journey in these territories, and obtained permission from Lobengula to open up missions in Mashonaland. In 1891, Dr. Knight-Bruce was appointed the first Bishop of Mashonaland. He resigned in 1894. Suc- cessive bishops have been : Archdeacon Gaul, Vicar of Kimberley, 1895-1907 ; the Rev. E. N. Powell, Vicar of S. Stephen's, Upton Park, London, E., 1908-1910 ; the Very Rev. F. H. Beaven, Dean of Salisbury (Rhodesia), who was appointed in 1911 and still holds office. Dr. Beaven was formerly Vicar of S. Paul's, Burton-on- Trent. He came to South Africa as an Army Chaplain during the Boer War, and in 1903 accepted the appoint- 141 GUIDE TO RHODESIA ment of Archdeacon of Matabeleland. He was installed as Dean of Salisbury in 1909. Present staff :-In addition to the Bishop, who is his own Dean, there are the Ven. Archdeacon J. H. Upcher, the Archdeacons of Matabeleland (the Ven. E. G. Harker) and Mashonaland (the Ven. E. H. Etheridge), and Canon J. Hallward, constituting the “ Chapter" ; 17 priests, 1 deacon, 14 lay workers (10 of whom are ladies), and 48 native catechists. The clergy in eight townships are supported by local contributions and minister chiefly to Europeans, but in some degree they act as missionaries also. The clergy at most mission stations are supported from England and devote most of their time to natives, but they hold services for Europeans whenever possible. There are over 10,000 white members of the Church. About 5,000 natives are being taught in mission schools, in addition to 1,800 who have been admitted as cate- chumens, and 2,000 who have been baptised. Of the schools, one of which is an evening school, two rank as first-class, four as second-class, and 31 as third-class ; and in 1912, 2,464 pupils qualified for Government grant, earning £918 in all (S. Augustine's £167, S. David's £129, S. Monica's £119). The Church has established centres at the following places. The white membership at each centre, being the figures of the census of 1911, is appended :- FRANCISTOWN.- PLUMTREE.-Services held at the school, and taken by the Headmaster, Mr. R. W. Hammond, M.A., when no clergyman is available. Membership 93. BULAWAYO.—Church, S. John's, is situated between 6th Avenue and Market Square. Chapel of Ease, S. Cyril's, in Abercorn Street, South. Membership, in Bulawayo, 2,357. Occasional services are held by local or visiting clergy at various mines and other centres in the Bula- wayo and Gwanda districts. Membership, Bulawayo district 1,282, Gwanda district 238. Native church, S. Columba's, in the Location at Bulawayo. Rector of Bulawayo : The Ven. Archdeacon Harker. BEMBESI.-S. Aidan's and S. Bede's Missions. 142 CHURCHES AND MISSIONS GWELO.—Church, S. Cuthbert's. Membership, urban 304, district 589. Native Church. Priest-in-charge : Rev. W. G. Webster. SELUKWE.—Church, S. Athanasius. Membership, urban 90, district 274. Incumbent : Rev. G. L. Ashworth. SELUKWE.-S. Francis Native Mission on the Native Reserve. Minister-in-charge : Rev. H. R. Quinn. Mr. Quinn visits and holds services at Victoria, 66 miles away. VICTORIA.-Church. Membership, urban 75, district 54 ; at Ndanga 66. Native school at Victoria. ENKELDOORN.-Services held by the Rev. A. S. Cripps. Membership 35 ; Charter district 37. ENKELDOORN.–Wremingham All Saints Native Mission. Minister in charge of centre and its various operations : Rev. A. S. Cripps ; Assistants : Miss A. H. Saunders and Miss M. Prior. QUE-QUE.—Church. Membership, 48. GATOOMA.—Church. Membership, 185. Rector : Rev. P. H. Green. The mining camps at Umsweswe and Battle- fields are served from Gatooma. HARTLEY.—Church, S. Edmund's. Membership, urban 112, district 615. Rector : Rev. R. R. St. J. Hovell. The mining camps at Gadzema and Makwiro are served from Hartley SALISBURY.—Cathedral, S. Mary and All Saints, built 1913. Chapel of Ease at Avondale. Membership, urban 1,615, district 668. The districts of Mazoe (membership 346), Lomagundi (269), Darwin (43), Mrewas (20), Mtokos (17) are served from Salisbury. Native church, S. Michael's, with evening school at Salisbury. The local clergy are also in charge of the missions of S. Mary at Hunyani, 12 miles away, S. Jospeh's, near Bromley Siding, and at Nyanira. Rector of Salisbury : Rev. E. J. Parker. MACHEKE.-Native mission at Mangwendi's, about four miles from the railway, with a small boarding school. Minister-in-charge : Rev. E. J. Simpson. Mr. Simpson also conducts services at Marandellas. MARANDELLAS.-Membership, 133. Rusap1.-Church hall, S. Bartholomew's. Membership 15, Makoni district 114. Two native mission stations- S. Faith's, 8 miles north of the railway station, and The Epiphany, 13 miles away in the same direction. In these mission areas are five brick churches and 14 143 GUIDE TO RHODESIA churches of pole and wattle, with three priests, 22 native teachers trained on the spot, 400 Christians, 700 cate- chumens, and 1,800 scholars. UMTALI.-Church, S. John the Baptist. Membership, urban 543, district 107. Priest-in-charge : Rev. P. Kynaston. Melsetter (membership 78) is served from this centre. Native church school at Umtali. PENHALONGA VALLEY.—Church, S. Michael and All Angels. Membership, 162. PENHALONGA.-S. Augustine's Native Mission, an important industrial school and native missionary training college, established as a memorial to Bishop Knight-Bruce. Entrance fee of £7 10s. is charged. There are 11 out- stations. Principal : Rev. Canon Hallward. The clergy staff conduct the services at the Penhalonga Valley Church. PENHALONGA.–S. Monica's School for Girls (native), situated on the same farm as S. Augustine's. Started at the request of young native Christians “ who did not wish to marry heathen girls.” Subjects taught : Sewing, cooking, laundry and dairy work, etc. BONDA.-S. David's Native Mission, situated about 40 miles north of S. Augustine's. Minister-in-charge : Rev. G. E. P. Broderick. Services are held for white residents. Membership (Inyanga District) 42. NORTHERN RHODESIA.—The sphere north of the Zambesi was detached from the Diocese of Mashonaland in 1910, and formed into a separate diocese, under the Right Rev. J. E. Hine, D.D. Present Bishop : The Rt. Rev. A.J. W. May, of the Universities Mission. The Cathedral Church is at Livingstone. THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. The first Presbyterian Church in Rhodesia established at Bulawayo in 1898. But for the native rebellion and the consequent unsettled state of the country, this scheme would in all probability have been carried out in 1895. Other churches have since been formed, and native work organised. The first con- gregation was attached to the Transvaal Presbytery and to the Presbyterian Church of South Africa. In 1908, a Presbytery of Rhodesia was formed. This now consists of the Ministers of Bulawayo, Salisbury, and was 144 7 Photo byl [F. C. Bellamy,.Salisbury. Pro-Cathedral, Salisbury. Flag accompanied Rhodesian Contingent in the Boer War, 1899–1902. 145 Bulawayo: (1) Presbyterian Church. (2) Wesleyan Church. 146 CHURCHES AND MISSIONS Umtali, the Superintendent of Native Missions, the Itinerary Agent, and lay members from the congregations, with the Rev. J. Simpson, M.A., P.O. Box 50, Salisbury, as Clerk. The Presbytery is a presbytery of the Pres- byterian Church of South Africa. Numerically. it is the smallest presbytery in South Africa, but territorially it is the largest in the world : in view of future possi- bilities it is therefore one of real importance. Churches, etc.: BULAWAYQ.—Church has 290 members and a yearly revenue of £1,000. It is controlled by the Session of the Board of Management, the Chairman of the Board being Mr. A. R. Welsh, and the Clerk of the_Session, Mr. M. MacDonald. First Minister : Rev. T. H. Jones. Mr. Jones, removing to Beaconsfield, Kimberley, resigned in 1906, and was succeeded by the Rev. George Grieve, who removed to Maritzburg in 1908. Present Minister : Rev. C. E. Greenfield, formerly of Boksburg, Transvaal. SALISBURY.-First Minister, appointed in 1904, the Rev. H. W. Cochran. Mi. Cochran removed to Durban in 1908 and was succeeded by the Rev. J. Simpson, of Woodstock, Cape Town, who is the present Minister. UMTALI.—Church organised in 1910. Present Minister : Rev. G. P. Philps, formerly of Aliwal North. ITINERANT WORK amongst the mining camps and other settlements was organised in 1910, being carried on by an agent, who is now Mr. M. J. Morrison. NATIVE MISSIONS.—Superintendent of Native Missions in Rhodesia, Rev. S. S. Dornan, who organised this work in 1908. Schools, 1912 : 4 third class; pupils 190, pupils qualifying for grant 128, total grant earned £32. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. Rhodesia is a Prefecture-Apostolic of the Roman Catholic Church. It comprises that part of Northern Rhodesia which is south of the Congo Free State and west of the 30th degree of longitude, the whole of Southern Rhodesia, and that part of Bechuanaland which is north of the Tropic of Capricorn (lat. 23° 30) and east of the 22nd degree of longitude. The Mission was entrusted to the Fathers of the Society of Jesus by the Holy See on the 8th February, 1897. The first 147 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Superior was the Very Rev. H. Depelchin, whose successors have consecutively been the Very Revs. Alf. Weld, A. M. Daignault, H. Schomberg Kerr, Richard Sykes, Ign. Gartlan, and the present Superior, Very Rev. R. Sykes—re-appointed May, 1911—all of the Society of Jesus. Churches and Missions : BULAWAYO.—Church of the Immaculate Cor ption, founded 1895. The St. George's Public School (under the direc- tion of the Jesuit Fathers), the Convent Day and Board- ing School (under the direction of the Sisters of St. Dominica), the Observatory in the suburbs, and the Native Church of St. Patrick, are among the institutions of the Church in this town. Church of the Immaculate Conception, Bulawayo. GwELO.—Church of St. Joseph, and the Domincan Convent and schools, with out-stations at Selukwe and Sebakwe. This mission was founded in 1900. EMPANDENI.—-Native Mission of St. Francis Xavier, which is in the Plumtree District; has a church built of white granite, and two convents, with schools, and also an out-station and schools at Embakwe. This mission was originally founded in 1887; it was re-established in 1895 by the late Father P. Prestage, S.J., on ground originally granted him by Lobengula. At Empandeni is a native band of 40 instruments. SALISBURY.–At Salisbury is the Church of the Sacred Heart, and also Convent and schools, and the native mission church of St. Peter. Established 1893. 148 JMS Chishawasha Native Mission : The Church (R.C.). 149 GUIDE TO RHODESIA UMTALI.—Church of the Holy Rosary, with an out-station at Penhalonga ; founded in 1898. CHISHAWASHA.—An important native mission, St. Ignatius Loyola’s, with Convent and schools, founded in 1892 by the Rev. H. S. Kerr, S.J., Superior of the Zambesi Mission. (See also p. 322.] VICTORIA.—Church of S.S. Peter and Paul. The Native Mission at Mzondo was founded in 1898, closed in 1900, and reopened in 1909. UMVUMA.—At Driefontein, near Umvuma, is the Church of St. Peter Claver, founded in 1906, and also schools and out-stations. MACHEKE.—Near Macheke station is the Mission of St. Benedict, founded in 1902, with convent schools, free dispensary for natives, and four out-stations. RUSAPI.—St. Triashill Native Mission, founded in 1908. Has a church, convent, and six out-stations. NORTHERN RHODESIA.—In Northern Rhodesia is the Chikuni Native Mission, founded in 1906. In the Prefecture are : 35 Priests, 28 Brothers, and 101 Nuns. Of the native schools, five rank as first- class, nine as second-class, and 11 as third-class; pupils 2,387, of whom 1,687 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £923. WESLEYAN CHURCH. The Wesleyan Church commenced operations in Rhodesia in 1891, following on a tour of inspection by the Revs. 0. Watkins and I. Shimmin. Headquarters were established on a farm near Salisbury which was called Epworth, since when churches and missions have been opened up at every important centre in the country. To-day the Church has in Rhodesia 50 places of Worship, 250 other preaching places, 10 white ministers, 4 native ministers, 50 native evangelists and teachers, 120 local preachers, 1,000 full Church members, 1,500 members on trial, and 2,500 children in the native schools. In 1912, two of the schools ranked as first-class schools, two as second-class, and 21 as third-class, while three were evening schools ; and 1,092 pupils earned Govern- ment grant amounting to £310. The Governing Body is a Synod which meets yearly. Chairman of the District: The Rev. John White (on 150 GUIDE TO RHODESIA is carried on in the town, and on the Wanderer and other mines, and at Gwelo, and other stations. Minister : Rev. J. W. Stanlake. BULAWAYO.—Church. Minister, Rev. A. M. Filmer. There is also a large native circuit, with a dozen out-stations. Superintendent Minister : Rev. Holman Brown. TEGWANI.—Mission station, ten miles north of Plumtree, founded 1897 on 12,000 acres of land given by Mr. Rhodes. Brick church, two day schools, and a number of out-stations. Superintendent : Rev. C. W. Harpur, who holds monthly services in Plumtree for white people. NORTHERN RHODESIA.-Mission founded 1912 at Chipembi, about 25 miles from Mwomboshi Tank. Minister : Rev. S. D. Gray, with three native evangelists. METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH. The Methodist Episcopal Church began work in Rho- desia in 1898 on the basis of a gift from the British South Africa Company, comprising sites in the town of Umtali and the lands and buildings of an earlier site in what is now known as Old Umtali. A school for white children was opened and maintained for ten years, when it was handed over to the Education Department. Umtali is the centre of the Church's work among Europeans. There is also a large native work in the town and in the neighbouring kraals of which Old Umtali, where an Industrial School for natives is established, is the centre. There are two boarding schools for natives, one for boys and the other for girls. For the last few years the average number of natives in attendance has been about 175. Principal : Rev. H. N. Howard. Reports in February, 1912, showed 56 out stations, 15 white missionaries with 69 native workers, 2,694 members and probationers on the Church records. The pupils in the day schools numbered 3,872 ; in 1912, there were 3 first-class schools, 2 second-class, and 30 third-class, and 1,370 pupils qualified for Government earning £662. The property on the mission amounts in value to upwards of £25,000, 152 CHURCHES AND MISSIONS DUTCH REFORMED CHURCH. The first Dutch Reformed Church mission was opened in 1891, at Morgenster (Morning Star), a few miles from the Zimbabwe Ruins, by the Rev. A. A. Louw. In 1907 the Church took over the mission of the Berlin Missionary Society. At present there are nine mission stations, all in the district of Victoria, viz. : Morgenster, Harawe, Pamushana, Alheit, Gutu, Zimutu, Victoria, Chibi, and Jena. The staff comprises : 29 missionaries, male and female, assisted by 18 native evangelists or catechists, working on 22 outposts, with about 2,500 children in the schools, of whom 851 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £287. The schools were ranked as : 1 first class, 5 second class, and 8 third class. The number of converts who have been admitted into full Church membership is about 300. Native teachers are trained at Morgenster, the course of instruction, industrial and literary, covering three years. A printing press was recently laid down at headquarters. A new work has been opened in Salisbury and surrounding districts by the Rev. Mr. Vlok, being among natives from the north. Mr. Vlok was for upwards of 22 years a missionary in Nyasaland, and the principal object of his new work is to keep in touch with adherents of the Dutch Reformed Mission of Nyasaland while these are working in the South. Medical work under Dr. Helm has been carried on at Morgenster since 1894, aid being rendered white people as well as natives. A leprosorium is about to be erected in the neighbourhood. The Mission as a whole is entirely supported by the Dutch Reformed Church of the Cape Province, the staff being trained in the Church's own institutions at Stellenbosch and Wellington. Dutch Reformed churches for the white community are established in Salisbury, Bulawayo, Enkeldoorn, etc. 153 GUIDE TO RHODESIA HEBREW DENOMINATION. The Jewish community of Rhodesia at the last census totalled over 1,200. The chief congregations are those in Bulawayo and Salisbury. The officiating clergy at the Bulawayo Synagogue are the Rev. M. I. Cohen, B.A., and the Rev. A. Wienberg ; at Salisbury, the Rev. M. L. Harris is in charge. There are small congregations at Gatooma, Gwelo, Que-Que, Selukwe, etc., but facilities for religious education are provided only in the larger centres. The congregations in Bulawayo and Salisbury date back to 1894, and each has various affiliated associations which deal with charitable, educational, and social needs. In Bulawayo, the clergy give religious instruc- tion at the day schools, and also hold special afternoon religious classes. The religious development of the Jewish community in Rhodesia is rendered slower by the fact that the various congregations are entirely self-supporting, receiving no outside financial assistance. Thus, to a large extent, the community is dependent upon lay workers. LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY. The first Christian missionaries to this country since the Catholics of 1560 and 1760 were led into Matabeleland by Dr. Moffat, of the London Missionary Society (see references to David Livingstone). The party consisted of Messrs. John S. Moffat, Sykes, and Thomas, and at the desire of M'Zilikazi, they settled in 1860 at Inyati. There are now three European missionaries, five central stations, 45 out-stations, 66 native teachers, 700 church members, 3,300 weekly attendants at services, 12 Sunday schools, 45 day schools, and about 2,300 scholars. In 1912, 344 pupils qualified for Govern- ment grant, earning £102. Missions : INYATI MISSION, Bubi District, founded in 1859 by Dr. Robert Moffat, at the then Royal Kraal of M'Zilikazi; 154 CHURCHES AND MISSIONS farm 6,000 acres in extent. Eight out-stations. Super- intendent : Rev. Bowen Rees. DOMBODEMA MISSION, Bulalima-Mangwe District. Mission lands comprise an area of 24,000 acres. There are 14 out-stations. Station was founded in 1895. Super- intendent, Rev. G. Cullen H. Reed. CENTENARY Mission, Figtree sub-district, founded in 1897 by the late Rev. David Carnegie. There are five out- stations. TJIMALI MISSION, founded 1906, on the south-west of the Matopo Hills. There are five out-stations. Super- intendent, Rev. J. Muteside. Hope FOUNTAIN, an important native mission, founded in 1870, about ten miles south of Bulawayo. There are 13 out-stations. Superintendent, Rev. C. D. Helm. (See p. 195.) A new station is being established on the Shangani Native Reserve. OTHER MISSIONS. In addition to the missions already described, the following all receive Government grants :- SEVENTH DAY ADVENTISTS.-Five schools (3 first-class, 2 second), 266 pupils, of whom 101 qualified for Govern- ment grant in 1912, earning £94. AMERICAN BOARD OF FOREIGN MISSIONS.—Four schools (1 first-class, 2 second, i third), 520 pupils, of whom 329 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £269. BRETHREN IN CHRIST.—Three schools (2 first-class, 1 second), 157 pupils, of whom 59 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £53. SOUTH AFRICAN GENERAL MISSION.-One (first-class) school, 82 pupils, of whom 28 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £28. CHURCH OF CHRIST.-One (second-class) school, 41 pupils, of whom 24 qualified for Government grant in 1912, earning £22. There are in Southern Rhodesia, 20 native mission schools, graded by the Education Department as first- class, having a total enrolment of 1,317 pupils ; 29 graded as second-class, having an enrolment of 3,467 ; and 117 graded as third-class, having an enrolment of 9,076. 155 The Matabele at Home By P. NIELSEN INTERPRETER TO THE HIGH COURT OF SOUTHERN RHODESIA ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR PRICE 4/6 this book the Author has presented a vivid I picture of the home life of an interesting people—the Matabele of Rhodesia, who form a considerable section of the great Bantu group of African aboriginals. Their beliefs and their manrers and cus- toms are described in a manner that shows. . intimate knowledge of the subject, and this is due to the fact that the author has had many years' experience of the natives of the country and under all kinds of conditions, and is, moreover, a consummate linguist. The last chapter is a psychological study of the native himself, in which his salient characteristics are swiftly and accurately sketched. New and Second-hand Books on the History of Rhodesia can be obtained from us. Rhodesian Stamps for Sale. DAVIS & CO. (THE HOME OF BEAUTIFUL BOOKS) Box 421. Bulawayo, S. Rhodesia 156 African Banking Corporation, Ld. BOX 595 ADO BULAWAYO Authorised Capital £2,000,000 Subscribed Capital £1,200,000 Paid-up Capital £600,000 Reserve Fund £220,000 Reserve Liability of Shareholders £600,000 £1,420,000 Head Office: 63, London Wall, London, E.O. Board of Directors: Chairman-The Right Honourable The Earl of Selborne, K.G. Deputy-Chairman-Robert Littlejohn, Esq. Stanley Christopherson, Esq. Sir Godfrey Yeatman Lagden, K.C.M.G Solomon Barnato Joel, Esq. The Rt, Hon, Viscount Middleton, PC William James Thompson, Esq. George William Thomson, Esq., J.P General Manager in S. Africa (resident at Cape Town] Chas. Lipp Manager in London J. M. Wallace Agency in America 64, Wall Street, New York Branches in all the principal towns in S. Africa. Agents and Correspondents throughout the world Every kind of approved Banking business is transacted at Head Office and Branches. Current Accounts are opened Drafts and Letters of Credit issued, Bills and Securities collected. Sale and Purchase of Stocks, Shares, &c., un- dertaken, Securities and Valuables received for safe custody. Deposits for fixed periods are received on terms and raies to be ascertained on application Every officer of the Bank is pledged to secrecy as to the business affairs of the Bank and its customers. MAKERS OF RUBBER STAMPS AND DATERS & COLLINS PHILPOTT XIV.-BIBLIOGRAPHY OF RHODESIA. RHODESIA is unique among the South African colonies in its possession of a written history dating from the tenth century of this era down to the present day. Arabian and Persian Period. Massoude was the earliest writer to deal with the gold trade carried on between Sofala, the ancient port of Rhodesia, and the ports of South Arabia and of the Persian Gulf. He was an Arabian historian of acknowledged repute, and has been aptly called “ the Herodotus of Arabia.” He was born at Bagdad about the year 890 and died in 947. His book “ The Golden Meadows" was published in 943. Ibn alWardy in 957 also describes Sofala and its gold trade. A century later, Albyrouny, a Persian geographer, wrote of the gold mines in the hinterland of Sofala (Rhodesia). In the twelfth century, Edrisi, a geographer, also wrote of the gold mines. Ibn Sayd, an Arabian geographer of the 13th century, also describes Sofala and its gold trade. Medieval Portuguese Period. The value of the literature of this period lies in the fact that many of the records were written by men who actually lived in the country. These writings were translated into English by Dr. George M. Theal, Historiographer to the Cape Government, and the translations, together with the original text, were pub- lished under the title of “ Records of South-Eastern Africa." Among many such mediæval writings are :- 1552. “ Da Asia," by Joaa de Barros. 1566. “ Chronicles of King Emanual,” by Damiao de Goes. 1609. “ Eastern Ethiopia," by J. dos Santos. >> 157 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 1616. “ Da Asia,” by Diogo de Conto. 1631. Decado Composta,” by A. Bocarro. 1666. “ Asia Portuguesa," by M. de Faria. 1667. Report on the Conquest of the Rivers of Cuama (Zambesi),” by Manoel Barretto. Modern Period. To give a complete list of Rhodesian books is an impossible task in a work of this nature, where space is necessarily limited. An attempt is made, therefore, to give only those works that are fairly easily accessible. For the student of literature considerable information will be found in the monumental work of Mr. S. Men- delssohn, The South African Bibliography.” Many articles and papers on a variety of subjects connected with Rhodesia will be found in the Proceedings and Journals of the following learned societies and other bodies Royal Geographical Society, Royal Colonial Institute, Rhodesia Museum, South African Association for the Advancement of Science, Geological Society of South Africa, Rhodesia Scientific Association;' Royal Anthropological Institute, Institute of Mining Engineers; and also in the Rhodesia Agricultural Journal, and the British South Africa Company's publications. The following list has been prepared by Mr. Dugald Niven, Librarian of the Public Library, Bula- wayo, who states that copies of all the books mentioned are in the library at Bulawayo. The name of the publisher is given after the title of the book. 1898. ALDERSON, E. A. H., “ With the Mounted Infantry and the Mashonaland Field Force, 1896.” Methuen & Co., London. 1897. BADEN POWELL, R. S. S., “ The Matabele Cam- paign.” Methuen, London. 1864. BAINES, T., Explorations in South West Africa.” Longmans, London. Account of a journey taken in 1861–1862 from Walvisch Bay to Lake N'Gami and Victoria Falls. 1877. BAINES, T., “The Gold Regions of South East Africa.” Stanford, London. 1892 BENT, J. T., Ruined Cities of Mashonaland.” Longmans, London. 158 BIBLIOGRAPHY 66 1899. BERTRAND, A., “ The Kingdom of the Barotse, Upper Zambesi.” 1897. BOGGIE, A., • From Ox Waggon to Railway.” Times, Bulawayo. A brief sketch of Rhodesia, Lobengula, and the Matabele tribe by an early pioneer. 1889. BOWLER, L. P., “ Facts about the Matabele.” Glickstein, Pretoria. 1899. BROWN, W. H. (“ Curio” Brown), “On the South African Frontier." Sampson Low, London. The author was with the force that relieved Bulawayo during the Native Rebellion. 1894. CARNEGIE, D., Among the Matabele.” Contains also a short history of the country from the time of Chaka (about 1825). 1902. COILLARD, F., " On the Threshold of Central Africa." Hodder & Stoughton, London. Contains an account of the social and political status of the natives. 1907. COILLARD, FRANCOIS, “ On the Threshold of Central Africa.” Hodder & Stoughton, London. Describes the social and political status of the natives of Rhodesia. 1893. COLQUHOUN, “ Matabeleland.” Simpkin, Marshall, London. 1908. COLQUHOUN, A. R., “Dan to Beersheba." Heine- man, London. Contains an account of the early days of Charter rule, and also anecdotes of Rhodes, with details of his social life and political career. 1900. COLQUHOUN, A. R., * The Renascence of South Africa." Hurst & Blackett, London. Contains a short description of Matabeleland and Mashona- land, dealing with agricultural and mining proposi- tions. 1894. COOPER-CHADWICK, J., Three Years with Loben- gula.” 1898. DECLE, L., Three Years in Savage Africa." Methuen & Co., London. Describes Bulawayo in 1892, and also the customs of the native races. 1894. DONOVAN, C. H. E., " With Wilson in Matabele- land.” Henry & Co., London. Gives a good account of the battle on the Shangani River. 1897. Du Toit, S. J., “ Rhodesia, Past and Present." Heinemann, London. A. R., 159 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 1907. FERGUSSON, F. W., Ed. “ Southern Rhodesia.” S.A. Publishing Syndicate, London. An account of the commerce and industries of the country. 1893. FINLASON, C. E., “A Nobody in Mashonaland." Vickers, London. A humorous account of life in the days before the settlement. 1908. FORT, G. S., “Dr. Jameson.” Hurst & Blackett, London. 1910. FULLER, Sir T. E., “ The Rt. Hon. Cecil J. Rhodes : A Monograph and a Remembrance.” Longmans, London. 1898. GIBBONS, A. ST. H., Exploration and Hunting in Central Africa.” Methuen & Co., London. Con- tains a full and careful description of the Upper Zambesi, and an account of the subjects of King Lewanika. 1901. GILBERT, SHARRAD H., “ Rhodesia and After.” Simpkin Marshall, London. 1905. GILL, Sir D., “Geodetic Survey of South Africa.” Cape Times, Cape Town. 1911. GOULDSBURY and SHEANE, " The Great Plateau of Northern Rhodesia.” Arnold, London. 1899. GREY, EARL, 66 Hubert Hervey, Student and Imperialist : a Memoir.' Arnold, London. 1898. GREEN, E. G., “ Raiders and Rebels in South Africa.” Newnes, London. The authoress accom- panied an ambulance party during the Matabele Rebellion and describes her experience during these hostilities. 1902. HALL and NEAL, “ Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia.” Methuen, London. Second Edition, 1904. An important work on the archæology of the ancient ruins of Rhodesia. 1905. HALL, R. N., “ Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, and Rhodesia." Methuen, London. 1909. HALL, R. N., “ Prehistoric Rhodesia." Unwin, London. The first instalment of a reply to the conclusions of Dr. Randall MacIver concerning the origin and antiquity of the Ruins. 1904. HARDING, C., “In Remotest Barotseland.” Hurst & Blackett, London. 1900. HENSMAN, H., History of Rhodesia.” Black- wood & Sons, London. 1901. HENSMAN, H., “ Cecil Rhodes : A Study of a Career.” Blackwood, Edinburgh. 66 160 BIBLIOGRAPHY 66 1909. HONE, P. F., Southern Rhodesia." Bell & Son, London. 1903. HUTCHINS, D. E., Matopo Park and Trees.” Cape Times, Ltd., Cape Town. Articles on the indigenous trees of Rhodesia and lists of trees recommended for trial in Rhodesia. 1905. HUTCHINSON, G. T., “From the Cape to the Zam- besi.” Murray, London. 1909. HYATT, S. P., ** The Northward Trek." Melrose, London. 1911. JOHNSON, J. P., “The Mineral Industry of Rho. desia.” Longmans, London. 1891. JOHNSTON, Sir H. H., Livingstone and the Ex- ploration of Central Africa.” Philip & Son, London, 1893. JOHNSTON, J., “ Reality versus Romance.” Hodder & Stoughton, London. Deals with the Marotse country and also with Zimbabwe. 1910. JOURDAN, P., “ Cecil Rhodes : His Private Life.” Lane, London. 1901. KEANE, A. H., 6. The Gold of Ophir : Whence Brought and by Whom.” Stanford, London. 1895. KNIGHT, E. F., ** Rhodesia of To-day.” Longmans, London. 1895. KNIGHT-BRUCE, G. W. H., Memories of Mashona- land.” Arnold, London, 1873. Dr. LACERDA, The Lands of Cazembe.” Journey from the Zambesi to Cazembe, south of Lake Mvero, north of Lake Bangweolo. 1882–3. LAW, A. H., Memoirs of Three Weeks." Burns & Oates, London. Diaries and letters respecting Matabeleland at this period. 1896. LEONARD, A. G., “ How We Made Rhodesia." Kegan Paul, London. The author was in command of a troop of B.S.A. Police in Rhodesia, 1890–1. 1911. LETCHER, OWEN, Big Game Hunting in North- eastern Rhodesia.” Long, London. 1865. LIVINGSTONE, D. and C., Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries." Murray, London. Relating to the discovery of Lakes Shamva and Nyassa. 1910. LYELL, D. D., Hunting Trips in Northern Rho- desia.” Cox, London. 1909. McDONALD, J. G., “ Hints to South African Far- mers. Bradbury, Agnew & Co., London. Contains special reference to Rhodesia. The author is the Representative in Rhodesia of the Rhodes Trustees. 66 66 > 161 F GUIDE TO RHODESIA 66 1906. MACIVER, D. R., “ Mediæval Rhodesia." Mac. millan, London. Investigations undertaken at the request of the British Association and Rhodes Trustees in 1905. See also R. N. Hall's works. 1883. MACKENZIE, J., Day Dawn in Dark Places." Cassell & Co., London. An account of pioneer missionary work in Bechuanaland and Matabele- land. 1897. MAGUIRE, J. R. (“ Imperialist”), 66 Cecil Rhodes : a Biography and an Appreciation.” Chapman & Hall, London. 1911. MANSFIELD, C., “Via Rhodesia.” S. Paul, London. 1905. MASEY, F., • The late Rt. Hon. C. J. Rhodes : a Chronicle of the Funeral Ceremonies from Muizenberg_to the Matopos, 1902.” Cape Times, Ltd., Cape Town. Printed only for private circula- tion. 1891. MATHERS, E. P., “ Zambesia.” King, Sell, & Rail- ton, Ltd., London. Contains an account of the syndicates and concessions which formed the nucleus of the British South Africa Company. 1910. MENDELSSOHN, S., “ South African Bibliography.” Kegan Paul, London. 1908. MENNELL, F. P., The Rhodesian Miners' Hand- book.” Allen, Bulawayo. 1910. MICHELL, Sir L., The Life of the Rt. Hon, Cecil John Rhodes, 1853–1902." Arnold, London. This is the standard work on Rhodes. The author has had a long connection with South Africa and was intimately acquainted with Rhodes. 1899. MILLAIS, J. G., "A Breath from the Veld.” Sotheran, London. 1875. MOHR, E., " To the Victoria Falls of the Zambesi.” Sampson Low, London. 1895. NEWMAN, C. L. N., Matabeleland, and How We Got It.” Fisher Unwin, London. Deals with the methods adopted by the early concessionaires. 1881. OATES, F., “Matabeleland and the Victoria Falls." Kegan Paul, London. Contains catalogues and descriptions of the author's collection in ornithology, botany, and entomology. 1900. OSWELL, W. E., “ William Cotton Oswell, Hunter and Explorer.” Heinemann, London. The author took part in an expedition with Livingstone which resulted in the discovery of Lake N'gama. 162 BIBLIOGRAPHY was 1902. PETERS, CARL, “ The Eldorado of the Ancients." Pearson, Ltd., London. Concerns the early history of Rhodesia and the author's explorations of 1896–1902. 1897. PLUMER, H. C. O., “ An Irregular Corps in Matabele- land.” Kegan Paul, London. An account of the Rebellion of 1896. 1893. ROMILLY, H. H., · Letters from Mashonaland.” Nutt, London. 1893. SELOUS, F. C., “ Travel and Adventure in South- East Africa." Rowland Ward, London. 1893. SELOUS, F. C., “ A Hunter's Wanderings in Africa.” Bentley & Son, London. Includes experiences in Bechuanaland, Mashonaland, and Rhodesia, from 1871 to 1880. 1896. SELOUS, F. C., “Sunshine and Storm in Rhodesia.” Rowland Ward, London. The author in command of a troop of the Bulawayo Field Force from the commencement to the conclusion of the Matabele Rebellion. 1908. SELOUS, F. C., “ African Nature Notes and Reminis- cences. Macmillan, London. Experiences and adventures in Mashonaland and Matabeleland, with foreword by President Roosevelt. 1898. STANLEY, Sir H. M., “ Through South Africa.” Samp- son Low, London. Contains an account of the author's visit to Rhodesia on the occasion of the opening of the railway at Bulawayo. 1891. STUART, J. M., “ Ancient Gold Fields of Africa." Express Printing Co., London. 1897. SYKES, FRANK W., “ With Plumer in Matabeleland.” Constable, London. Includes an account of the Matopo Indaba.” 1890. THEAT, Ĝ. McC., History of South Africa since 1795.” Five volumes. Swan, Sonnenschein, Lon. don. Vol. IV. deals with Matabeleland, 1854–1872. 1899. THEAL, GEORGE McC., “ South Africa." Fisher Unwin, London. Practically a skeleton account of the preceding work. 1898. THOMSON, H. C., “Rhodesia and Its Government." Smith, Elder, London. 1872. THOMAS, T. M., Eleven Years in Central South Africa.”., Snow & Co., London, 1900. VINDEX" (pseud.), Cecil Rhodes, His Political Life and Speeches." Chapman & Hall, London. 66 66 163 F 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 1899. WEBB, E. J., Ed. “ Africa as Seen by Its Explorers.” E. Arnold, London, 1893. WILLOUGHBY, Sir J. C., “Narrative of Further Excavations at Zimbabwe.” Philip & Son, London. 1894. WILLS and COLLINGRIDGE, “ Downfall of Lobengula.” Simpkin, Marshall, London. 1896. Wilmot, Hon. A., “ Monomotapa (Rhodesia).” Fisher Unwin, London. This work is the result of an exhaustive search in the archives of the libraries of Europe for traces of the history of Monomotapa. Carries the history to the year 1830. 164 XV.-GENERAL INFORMATION NATIVE AFFAIRS DEPARTMENT THE government of the natives of Southern Rhodesia is placed, by Imperial direction, under the Department of the Administrator, with a Chief Native Commissioner (Mr. H. J. Taylor) resident in Salisbury. The country is divided into 31 native districts, each controlled by a resident Native Commissioner. The total native population is about 750,000. There are 13,341 kraals or villages, and 281 chiefs subsidised by Government to assist Native Commissioners in regulating the conduct of the natives in their respective tribal districts. Marriage statistics : Married men, 104,808 ; polygamists, 34,373; married women, 159,265. The direct taxation paid by the natives to Govern- ment in 1912 amounted to £222,562. Amongst recent legislation is an Ordinance to provide, in accordance with a recommendation of the Native Affairs Committee, for compensation for natives employed on mines who may suffer injury or death in the course of their employment. In the course of a recent report, the then Chief Native Commissioner of Mashonaland stated : The Mashona native is most law-abiding. The various laws affecting natives are carefully explained to them by the Native Commissioner, and are carried out by the natives to the best of their ability, Chiefs and headmen are giving no cause for complaint, and the attitude of the natives leaves nothing to be desired. . The province is teeming with healthy, able-bodied natives, who have no desire to increase in wealth and prosperity, and have no thought of improving their status. Their motto is “Live and Let Live,” and they have no thought of the morrow. The younger generation continue to show a desire to learn, and the missionaries are increasing their schools in all directions. 165 GUIDE TO RHODESIA The Chief Native Commissioner of Matabeleland (now the Chief Native Commissioner of Rhodesia) recently reported as follows concerning the natives of that province :- The relations of the natives with the Government continue to be harmonious, and the political situation remains in a satisfactory condition. Chiefs and headmen continue to discharge their duties in a satisfactory manner. At periodical visits from me representative meetings of the various tribes are held, and an opportunity is afforded the natives of giving free expression of their views on matters of common interest. The breed of native cattle continues to improve. The demand for donkeys continues, and many horses and mules are also purchased every year, while the acquisition of wagons and carts is becoming more common. A better strain in sheep is noticeable, but in other small stock no improvement in breed is to be observed. The health of the indigenous population appears to be normal. In terms of a recommendation of the Native Affairs Committee, the question of providing for the medical supervision of natives in purely native districts has received attention, and a hospital has been erected in the Belingwe district. The object of the scheme is the establishment of a station where the practical results of medical attention would be readily brought home to the people. The more enlightened natives are beginning to realise that the scientific methods of European doctors are preferable to the ways of their own doctors. Once the doctors acquire a good repute, the natives will undertake long journeys to be treated by them. The result of the missionary influence on the native is becoming more apparent every year, and progress in this direction is to be observed. Natives make good use of the railways. The lobolo (payment for brides) in 1912 averaged £11 6s. 9d. ; in 1911 the average was £8 4s. 66 The wages paid to natives vary from 10s. to £3 per month. This is .the range in domestic service ; raw natives and picannins ” being paid at the lower rates, and skilled “ cook-boys ” at the higher, plus quarters and food in every case. Farm servants are paid from 10s. to 20s. per month, plus rations and quarters ; skilled workers are paid at higher rates. On the mines the average wage is 30s. per month, plus rations, quarters, 166 Photo by] [L. Pedrotti, Bulawayo, M'Holi, a well-known hunting boy. 167 Natives Hulling and Winnowing Corn. 168 DEFENCE FORCES and medical service ; the cost of feeding native employees on the mines is given at about 14s: monthly. Natives employed in stores and other businesses frequently ration themselves, and in some cases live at locations, which adjoin most towns ; their wages are based accordingly. ; DEFENCE FORCES. The defence forces of Southern Rhodesia consist of mounted police and volunteers, both under the command of a Commandant-General (Col. A. H. M. Edwards, C.B., M.V.O.). The total numbers are : White officers and men, 2,421 ; natives, 597. The police, designated the British South Africa Police, police both the urban and rural districts of the country. The volunteers, designated the Southern Rhodesia Volunteers, are divided into two divisions, Eastern and Western, the sphere of each being respectively Mashona- land and Matabeleland. Both divisions are equipped with gun, engineer, mounted, cyclist, signalling, and ambulance sections, and maintain regimental bands, while cadet corps are attached to each. POLICE.—Headquarters, Salisbury. Establishment : 548 Whites, 597 natives ; 207 horses, 210 riding mules. Detec- tive staff : 1 sub-inspector and 12 detectives. Employed on town duty : 30 White officers and men, 28 natives. Appointments to the police are made from time to time through the British South Africa Company, 2 Lon- don Wall Buildings, E.C. Applicants must be smart, well-educated men, British subjects, unmarried, used to an outdoor life, and able to ride and shoot, and must be prepared to pay their own passages to Cape Town (£11 5s.). The subsequent expense of reaching Rhodesia is met by the police authorities. The following physical conditions are enforced : Age between 20 and 25 years, height between 5 feet 6 inches and 5 feet 10 inches, weight 11 st. 7 lb. maximum, chest (not inflated) 34 inches minimum. Applicants must also pass a strict medical examination. The first period of enlistment is three years, and on enlistment a liberal issue of 169 GUIDE TO RHODESIA clothing is made. Pay ranges from 5s. to 12s. 6d. per day, the latter being the scale for regimental sergeants- major. There are numerous extras : allowances are made for rations, maintenance of clothing, town police duty, efficiency in native languages and law, and re-enlistments. There is a liberal scale of holiday leave, and pensions and gratuities are provided for. Promotions to the commissioned establishment are almost invariably made from the non-commissioned ranks. VOLUNTEERS—Eastern Division.—Headquarters, Salisbury. Strength, 916—officers, 39 (excluding 10 supernumerary officers) ; N.C.O.'s and privates, 878—with 94 cadets ; 91 horses. There are three squadrons at Salisbury, one squadron and the Engineer Company at Umtali, and Rifle Companies at Penhalonga, Enkeldoorn, Rusapi, Mazoe, Marandellas, Gadzema, Gatooma, Lomagundi, Abercorn, Bindura, Mount Hampden, Headlands, H yani. In 1912, 758 volunteers qualified for the Government grant. Western Division.Headquarters, Bulawayo. Strength, 997- officers, 38 (excluding 7 supernumerary officers); _N.C.O.'s and privates, 959—with 337 cadets ; 98 horses. There are five squadrons at Bulawayo, one squadron at Gwelo, and one at Selukwe, and Rifle Companies at the Matopos, Marula, Plumtree, Belingwe, Gwanda, Bushtick Mine, Wankies, Somabula, Claremont Mine, Antelope Mine, and Lalapanzi (Iron Mine Hill). In 1912, 856 volunteers qualified for the Government grant. POSTS AND TELEGRAPHS. The Posts and Telegraphs Department is under the control of the Postmaster-General (Mr. G. H. Eyre). It employs a staff of 196 Whites and 216 coloured people, and has a yearly revenue amounting to over £100,000. There are 112 offices conducting public postal business of one kind and another in Rhodesia, 43 being depart- mental offices transacting all classes of post, telegraph, money order, and savings bank business ; in all, there are 99 telegraph offices, and 92 post offices and agencies, with 109 posting receptacles. There are 3,295 miles of telegraph poles, and 7,722 miles of wires, exclusive 170 POSTS AND TELEGRAPHS of railway wires, valued at £106,000. There are 16 telephone exchanges, with 634 subscribers. Tariffs, etc. :- INLAND.-Letters, id. per } oz. ; postcards, £d. each ; newspapers, įd. each 4 oz.; book packets, ld. each 2 oz. ; sample packets and commercial papers, 1d. up to 4 oz., and fd. each additional 2 oz. Parcels : Is, up to 1 lb., 6d. each additional lb.; agricultural parcels post (for goods produced in Rhodesia), half these rates. Money Orders : For sums not exceeding £2, 6d.; not exceeding £5, 1s. ; not exceeding £7, 1s. 6d. ; not exceeding £10 (the maximum), 2s. ; additional charge for telegraphic orders, 1s. each order. Telegrams : 12 words, ls., each additional word, ld. ; Press telegrams. quarter rates. Telephone rentals : Within a radius of one mile of an exchange, £10 10s. business premises ; £6 6s. private residences. British Postal Orders, payable with few exceptions any- where in the Empire, ld. for orders up to 5s. in value, 2d. for 7s. 6d. and 10s. orders, 3d. for 10s. 6d. and 15s. orders, 4d. for £l orders. INTER-SOUTH AFRICAN.-Letters and postcards, as above ; reply-paid postcards, id.; newspapers and book packets, d. each 2 oz. ; sample packets and commercial papers, id. up to 4 oz.; fd. each additional 2 oz. Parcels : To Union and Bechuanaland, ls. 6d. each Ib.; to Nyasaland, 2s. each lb. ; Belgian Congo, 2s. 4d. per 3 lb. ; reduced rates to the Trans- vaal and Orange Free State, from 2s. 9d. per 3 lb., are in force via Beira, which is a longer route. Telegrams, per 12 words : To Northern Rhodesia, the Union, Beira Railway offices, Bechuanaland, and Lourenço Marques, 2s., and 2d. each additional word ; Belgian ngo, 5s., and 5d. each additional word; United Kingdom (wire to Cape Town, mail to Southampton and wire thence to destination), 2s. 70., and 2}d. each additional word ; to ships at sea within 300 miles of Durban or Cape Town, ls. 1d. per word ; Press rates except to United Kingdom and by wireless, quarter rates. A proposal is under consideration for cheap night letter telegrams" between Southern Rhodesia and the Union. Money Orders : To Northern Rhodesia, the Union, Province of Mozambique, and Belgian Congo, rates same as Inland rates, with an extra charge for telegraphic orders of 2s. to Northern Rhodesia or the Union, and from 2d. to 6d. per word to Mozambique ; telegraphic orders do not apply to Nyasaland or the Belgian Congo. ; 171 GUIDE TO RHODESIA .. OVERSEAS.--Letters to the United Kingdom and nearly all parts of the British Empire, 1d. per 1 oz.; to other parts of the world, 24d. ; postcards, id. each ; reply-paid, 2d. ; news- papers, id. up to 4 oz., each additional 2 oz., įd.; book and sample packets, ld. each 2 ozs. ; commercial papers, 2 d. up to 4 oz., 3d. up to 6 oz., ld. each additional 2 oz. Parcels : To the United Kingdom via Cape Town, Is. 6d. per Ib.; via Beira (longer journey), from 3s. per 3 lb. Money Orders : For sums not exceeding £2, 1s. ; £5, Is. 6d. ; £7, 2s. 3d.; £10, 3s., if to Great Britain ; if elsewhere, then respectively, 1s. 6d., 2s. 3d., 3s., 4s. Cablegrams : To Great Britain (and most places in Europe), 25. 8d. per word ; Press rates, 44d. per word; deferred cablegrams, half rates; week-end letter cablegrams, 15s. per 30 words, 2s. 6d. each additional five words-messages are handed in by any Saturday evening and are delivered at their destination on the following Tuesday morning. TARIFFS TO BELGIAN CONGO.-Letters, 2 d. per } oz. ; post-cards, newspapers, book and sample packets and com- mercial papers as for overseas. Registration fee per article, 4d. Post offices are open from 8.30 a.m. to from 5 to 6 p.m., except, in most instances, Saturday, which is a half-holiday ; telegraphic business is transacted in Salisbury and Bulawayo until 8 p.m. The principal offices are open for one hour or less on Sunday mornings. CENSUS INFORMATION. The last census of Southern Rhodesia was taken on May 7th, 1911. This gave the total population as 771,077, made up of 23,066 Whites, 744,559 natives, and 2,912 Asiatics and other coloured persons. The White population has latterly increased at the rate of about 3,000 yearly, and it is estimated that the total at the end of 1913 slightly exceeded 30,000. At the time of the census there were 15,580 males and 8,026 females (White). Compared with the returns at the census of 1904, this shows a marked advance in the proportion of females to males, pointing to great improvement in the conditions of life in the country. This tendency is emphasised in a still more marked legree by recent additions the immigrant population, a great proportion being women. The “ crude birth- 172 NATIVE LABOUR BUREAU > rate-.e., the birth-rate calculated on the total popu- lation—was 27•30 per thousand in 1912. The crude death-rate in the same year was 12.6 per thousand. Over 90 per cent. of the white population consists of British subjects by right of birth; of these 40.93 per cent., or 9,661 persons (7,263 males, 2,398 females) were born in the British Isles, 30•66, or 7,236 persons (4,139 males, 3,097 females) in the Union of South Africa, and 13.65 per cent., or 3,222 (1,601 males, 1,621 females) in Southern Rhodesia. Occupations : Civil service, including police, 874 ; professions, 400 ; commerce, 2,888 ; agriculture, 2,067 ; industry, 5,314. THE RHODESIAN NATIVE LABOUR BUREAU. This institution was established by an Ordinance of 1911 to recruit and supply native labour to mines, farms, and industries. The Board of Management consists of: Managing Director, nominees of the Admini- strator, British South Africa Company, and Debenture Holders other than the British South Africa Company, a representative of Joint Stock Company members, a representative of Small (mine) Workers, and a repre- sentative of Farmers. The Managing Director is Mr. G. A. Wolfe Murray, and the head offices are at Salisbury. Capitation fees are charged to employers requiring labour, the Government paying a subsidy of £12,000, and the railway £3,000. The capitation fees are as follow : For mine labourers, £5 for a 12 months con- tract; for farm labourers, £2—plus in each case a monthly fee of ls. for Government administration purposes. Non-farming employers are rated for the higher capita- tion fee. The Bureau does not recruit in Southern Rhodesia. Natives also volunteer for work, and are engaged independently of the Bureau. There are 18 recruiting stations in Northern Rhodesia and 11 distributing stations in Southern Rhodesia ; and in Southern and Northern Rhodesia are 15 stations, 173 GUIDE TO RHODESIA at which all native labourers recruited are medically examined before being passed to employers. The total number of natives recruited in 1912 was 14,742, of whom 7,018 were supplied to mines, 6,527 to farms, and the balance to general employment. The average period of service for which the natives con- tracted to work was 11.75 months. The total number of natives repatriated in 1912 on the conclusion of their contracts was 6,714. 174 XVI.-RAILWAY ITINERARY: SHASHI RIVER TO BULAWAYO Shashi Siding. (Altitude, 3,146 feet). 1,218 miles from Cape Town, 16 miles south of Francistown. The Shashi River, which the line crosses at this point, constitutes the boundary between the British Bechuanaland Pro- tectorate and Tati, the territory of the Tati Concessions, Limited. Tati, of which the principal town is Francistown, lies between Rhodesia and the Protectorate. In extent it is approximately 100 miles from north to south by 30 to 40 miles. The line to Rhodesia runs through it for 75 miles, so that all the territory is within easy reach of the railway. In the early sixties several explorers visited the district, and in 1869 Sir John Swinburne, who had been greatly impressed by its agricultural and mineral wealth, obtained the con- cession from Lobengula. The principal mines are the Monarch and the New Zealand, the latter having been stoped down to a depth of 1,300 feet. Tati was formerly part of Matabeleland, but is now under the administration of the Bechuanaland Protectorate authorities. The line crosses the Tati river close to the south of Francistown. Francistown Station (3,254 feet), 1,234 miles from Cape Town, 126 miles from Bulawayo. The administrative and business centre of Tati, having bank, post and telegraph offices, hospital, hotel, and a number of im- portant trading stores. The Monarch and other mines are served by this station. The old Tati and Zambesi trading and hunting road, known as the Panda-ma-tenka road, passes north-west through the town. On leaving Francistown the line ascends gradually 1,400 feet until the Rhodesian border is crossed. Bosali Siding (3,540 feet), 1,250 miles from Cape Town, 110 miles from Bulawayo. Serves a cattle-raising district 175 GUIDE TO RHODESIA and a number of remote trading stations and native stadts in the south of the Mangwe district of Southern Rhodesia, and, westerly, along the Shashi River. Tsessebe Siding (3,917 feet), 1,267 miles from Cape Town, 93 miles from Bulawayo. Serves a great cattle district, and several very remote trading and native centres. Ramaquabane Siding (4,190 feet), 1,279 miles from Cape Town, 81 miles from Bulawayo. Is at the north- eastern boundary of_Tati. Centre of an important cattle district. The Ramaquabane River, just north of the siding, constitutes the boundary between Tati and Rhodesia, the railway then passing into the district of Bulalima-Mangwe in Southern Rhodesia. The scenery now met with is far from being uninteresting, but it is not typical of Rhodesian scenery. For en- gineering considerations the line was laid along the ridge of the high land dividing the watersheds of the Zambesi on the north and the Limpopo on the south. Fertile and watered areas, with their scattered homesteads, and other typical scenes are, consequently, mainly out of sight, and are further hidden from the passenger's view by the scrub bush through which the line is taken. Bulalima-Mangwe District extends from the railway for 80 miles towards the south-south-east, and for about 100 miles towards the north-west. Bulalima proper is that portion adjoining the Panda-ma-tenka road on the west. The head- quarters of the Magistrate and Native Commissioner are at Plumtree. A belt, extending roughly for about 30 miles on each side of the railway, has been surveyed into farms, on which are nearly a hundred European farmers carrying on some ranching and others mixed farming operations. Beyond are large areas of country still unoccupied. These consist mainly of mopani and bush veld, large portions of which can be made suitable for ranching purposes. In the meantime they are the haunt of big game and of lions, leopards, and wild dogs. Outlying farms, however, are gradually being taken up. Records taken at Tegwani (4,560 ft.) on the north side of the watershed ridge, and at Empandeni (3,300 ft.) on the south show a rainfall averaging from 19 to 23 inches yearly. The rivers flowing north-west are: Manyamyama, Tegwani, Mailengwe, Moakwa, Tjankwa, Natani, and Gwaai ; those 176 Bulawayo : (1) The Rhodes Statue, (2) The Rebellion Memorial. 178 SHASHI TO BULAW.YO flowing south-east : Shashani, Semokwe, Mangwe, Umpakwe, and Ramaquabane. Population : White, including Plumtree Township, 607; native, 39,485. The district possesses many places of interest, such as the Mangwe, Halshead, Molyneux, and Khami forts, which, during the Rebellion of 1896, protected the road leading to Bulawayo, incidents concerning which are described by Selous, Baden-Powell, and Plumer, in their books on the Rebellion and its suppression. The celebrated Mangwe Pass through the Matopo Hills is also in this district. About ten miles north of Plumtree on the Tegwani River is the Tegwani Mission of the Wesleyan Church. The Mission estate carries a large native population, besides which it borders on an immense district known as the Nata Native Reserve. South- south-east of Plumtree, 181 miles away, is the Empandeni (Roman Catholic) Mission, on which are over 2,000 natives, more than half of whom have been baptised. There are several ruins of stone buildings which were erected in some prehistoric times. Ruins are to be found on the Dombodema Mission farm of the London Missionary Society, on the farm Viviandale at Tegwani, on Mr. Simpson's farm, about three miles west of Figtree Old Store, and at Mabukitwaneni ; there are others in the Mangwe part of the district. Bushman paintings are very numerous, being found in almost all parts. Four sets of rock-paintings are to be found on different kopjes half a mile north of 1332-mile rail- way peg; numerous others are on granite boulders on the Dombodema Mission farm, and also in the Mangwe sub- district. In the Tegwani sub-district there is an area of country extending some 30 miles in all directions full of kopjes on the majority of which are paintings; the best of this series are near Nyabane's kraal and in the vicinity of Gambo's kraal. Plumtree Station (4,651 feet), 1,295 miles from Cape Town, 55 miles from Bulawayo. A rising township and the centre for an extensive farming country. Post, telegraph, Customs, and immigration offices are on the platform ; passengers from the south are examined here by the Immigration Officers. To the south of the platform are the Native Commissioner's, Magistrate's, and Police camps. Township runs parallel to the line on its north side, and there are several stores doing a 179 GUIDE TO RHODESIA on large general and native trade. A number of small holdings of 50 acres and upwards are being developed. Plumtree is celebrated for its Boarding School, conducted the English public school system ; the school buildings, hostel, church, and playing grounds occupy some 200 acres, or three-quarters of the surveyed township, and are close to the north side of the station. A small farm is carried on, and farming under Rhodesian conditions taught. The sources of several rivers are within a few thousand yards of the line on either side north of Plumtree. Shortly after leaving the station the line skirts along Highfield on the south side, a farm belonging to Mr. Cornelius Van Rooyen, the well-known big-game hunter and pioneer of Rhodesia. Here is to be seen a troop of half-tame sable antelope. Coldridge Siding (4,630 feet), 1,301 miles from Cape Town, 59 miles from Bulawayo. The line in this district passes through a series of low granite boulder kopjes. Syringa Siding (4,825 feet), 1,309 miles from Cape Town, 51 miles from Bulawayo. Situate on Syringa Farm. Marula Tank (4,765 feet), 1,316 miles from Cape Town, 44 miles from Bulawayo. Hotel and store. Head- quarters of the Marula Farmers' Association-hon. sec. : Mr. MacW. Ingram, Garth Farm. Headquarters of the Marula Rifle Company, under Lieut. Ingram. Malaba Hill and also Mangwe Pass lie to the south. Marula is the centre of a large farming area, having mixed veld and being well watered. Several settlers have lately taken up market gardening with success. There is an abundance of small game in the vicinity, such as duiker, steenbok, klipspringer, reedbuck, etc.; and a few miles away on either side big game is plentiful. Birds also are numerous. Sandown Siding (formerly known as Matopos Siding) (4,790 feet), 1,322 miles from Cape Town, 38 miles from Bulawayo. Close to the Sandown block of farms on the south side, belonging to Messrs. Cooper & Nephews, 180 SHASHI TO BULAWAYO the world-renowned manufacturers of cattle and sheep dips, on which extensive work of an experimental nature is being carried on, in addition to ordinary farming operations. At 12 miles, east, the line crosses the upper waters of the Gwaai River, flowing north. Leighwood's Siding. Situate on Leighwood's Farm. The country here is open and excellent for cattle. Umnegwani Hill is seen to the north. Figtree Siding (4,522 feet), 1,336 miles from Cape Town, 24 miles from Bulawayo. On the confines of the Bulalima-Mangwe, Matopo, and Bulawayo districts. Post and telegraph offices at the Hotel, near the siding. This is an important cattle-farming and tobacco-planting centre, and the headquarters of the Figtree Farmers' Association; officers : President, R. B. R. Granger, vice-president, W. F. White, hon. sec., A. Curtis. Figtree derives its name from the historic spot on the south side of the line, under the northern foothills of the Matopos, at which, in times long before the Occupa- tion, all travellers, missionaries, explorers, hunters, and ivory traders, etc., from the south had to await the permission of MʼZilikazi, and later of Lobengula, before they could advance further into the country of the Matabele. The tree is an excellent specimen of Ficus scraba, a wild fig, and is a well-known landmark, although the old Mafeking-Bulawayo coach road is now but seldom used. The Centenary Mission of the London Missionary Society lies six miles to the north of the siding, near Umnegwani Hill. Westacre Junction (4,536 feet), 1,343 miles from Cape Town, 17 miles from Bulawayo. Is the junction of the Matopo branch railway (9 miles) to the Matopo Terminus, which is within six miles of the tomb of Mr. Rhodes at World's View. Mr. Rhodes in his will directed that this branch line should be made in order that the people of Bulawayo may enjoy the glories of the Matopos.” Grain cultivation is extensively carried on in the vicinity 181 SHASHI TO BULAWAYO course. between its northern and southern points and 25 miles between its eastern and western points. It is bounded on the west by Bulalima District, on the south-east by Umzing- wani District, on the north-east by Bubi District, on the south by Matopo District, and on the north-west by Nya- mandblovu District. The administrative headquarters are at Bulawayo. The district is traversed in the south-west by the Vryburg-Bulawayo line-one siding, Khami ; in the west by the Bulawayo-Victoria Falls line-one siding, Pasipas; and in the north-east by the Bulawayo-Salisbury line—two sidings, Old Nic Mine and Marvel Spur. Being on the southern part of the Zambesi watershed, its rivers have a northerly These are the Khami (and its tributaries), Matje- sumhlope, and Umgusa rivers, all of which ultimately contri- bute their waters to the Zambesi. The altitude is fairly even, except in the Khami Valley in the west, the elevations being, Bulawayo 4,469 ft., Matjesumhlope 4,679 ft., and Khami Valley 4,320 ft. The contour of the district is undulating, and the country is covered in most parts by mimosa and mopani bush. The rainfall averages 25 ins. Population : Whites, 5,666; natives, 13,318. Adjoining the Bulawayo Commonage are several surveyed and partially occupied residential areas, including Belle Vue, to the south-west and Glenville, Trenance, Lobenvale, Um- gusa, and Newmansford to the north-west. There are a number of gold mines in the district, among them the Old Nic, Criterion, and Redrup's Kop; a large number of mining properties are also being developed. About 80 Whites are carrying on farming operations ; and there are also several dairy farms and numerous market gardens, these having a big market at their doors. The places of interest include the site of the royal (private) kraal of Lobengula at Umvutcha (now the residence of Mr. R. A. Fletcher), seven miles to the north of Bulawayo, where Lobengula signed the Rudd Concession, on which the Royal Charter of the British South Africa Company was based ; Bushman's Haunt, and the Reservoirs in the Matjesumhlope Kopjes (q.v.), and Khami Ruins (q.v.). There are a few scattered remains of ruined stone walls, but none, save Khami Ruins, belongs to the Zimbabwe type or period of structure. Bushman paintings are to be found on the rocks in different parts, the majority being along the line of the Matjesumhlope Kopjes. Big Ben.-Worked by W. E. Hunt. Equipment : 4 stamp mill, sands. Output 1913, value £11,735. 183 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Criterion Mine.- Situated six miles from Bulawayo. Owners : Criterion Gold Mines, Ltd.; Manager : T. W. Taylor. Plant: 10 stamps, cyanide. Output 1913, value £33,469. Lone Hand.-Worked by Armstrong, Furber, and Alex- ander. Equipment : 5 stamps, sands. Output 1913, value £8,548. Peach. Owner : C. Salomon. Equipment : 5 stamps. Output 1913, value £7,836. Teutonic.-Worked by Macdonald and Bonshor. Equip- ment: stamps, sands. Output 1913, value £10,690. Tuff Nut.–Owners : King's Syndicate, Ltd. Plant : 5 stamps, cyanide. Output 1913, value £12,180. Alnwick Siding (4,482 feet). On Alnwick Farm ; serves several farms. From Alnwick the line leaves the watershed ridge and enters the Zambesi watershed, the Khami River, flowing north, a tributary of the Gwaai River, being crossed close to the west side of Khami Siding. Khami Siding (4,435 feet), 1,348 miles from Cape Town, 12 miles from Bulawayo. Centre of a farming district. The old Mafeking-Bulawayo coach road runs close by the south side of the station ; Powell's Store, adjoining, was the posting house. Near the store are the remains of Khami Fort, the scene of several incidents in the '96 Rebellion. At six miles from Bulawayo is the farm known Matabele Wilson's,” which, in pre-railway days, was the last posting-station before Bulawayo was reached from the south. As Bulawayo is approached the homesteads of farms can be seen in several directions. At two miles from town, on the west side, are the Makaha Hills, and, nearer, the Volunteer Rifle Range. The line enters the Bulawayo Station between the range and the locomotive works of the B. & M. & R. Railways. On the south of the station lies Raylton, formerly known Railtown," the residential quarter of the head- quarters and local staff of the Railway administration. At Raylton are an Institute, with library, reading and billiard rooms, etc., and extensive sports grounds. as as 184 GUIDE TO RHODESIA General Institutions.-Rhodesia Chamber of Mines, Bula- wayo Chamber of Commerce, Rhodesian Landowners' and Farmers' Association, Bulawayo Agricultural Society. Clubs.—Bulawayo Club, Rhodesia Club. Masonic and other Lodges.-Bulawayo Lodge E.C., Alan Wilson Lodge S.C., Zambesia Lodge G.E.N., Bulawayo Royal Arch Chapter; Royal Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes ; I.O.G.T. : Alan Wilson Lodge. Social, etc.-Members of the 1890 and 1893 Columns of Rhodesia, Rhodesia Pioneers and Early Settlers' Society, Rho- desia Scientific Association, Stage Society, Devonian Society, Lancashire and Yorkshire Association, Midland Counties Association, Caledonian Society, Irish Association, Jewish Guild. Women's Societies.—Girls' Friendly Society, Ladies' Bene- volent Society, Women's Guild, New Rhodes Hostel (home for business women), Ladies' Rifle Club, Ladies' Fencing Club. Sport.-Turf Club, Bulawayo Athletic Club, King's Athletic Club, Queen's Sports Club, Bowling Club, Gun Club, Southern Rhodesia Rifle Association, Suburban Recreation Club, Golf Club. Newspapers.—Bulawayo Chronicle (daily), Weekly Chroni- cle (Thursday). Some of the above are further referred to in the succeeding chapter. 180 SEDGWICK continue to create Records. At the last Competition, Western Province Agricultural Show, Rosebank, out of 19 First Prizes awarded, 13 FIRST PRIZES were secured for Sedgwick's Colonial Wines, Brandies, and Liqueurs, including Van der Hum. The following are amongst the Prize Winners: SEDGWICK'S Medical Reserve Pure Old Wine Brandy SEDGWICK'S 5 Star Brandy, No. 10. SEDGWI K'S F.C. Brandy, Special Reserve. SEDGWICK'S Kimberley Club Sherry. SEDGWICK'S Royal Tawny Port. SEDGWICK'S Sweet Constantia Pontac. SEDGWICK'S Sweet White Muscadel. SEDGWICK'S Dry Pontác. SEDGWICK'S Sauvignon Blanc " Jagger Cup." SEDGWICK'S Van der Hum. SEDGWICK'S Green Peppermint, Aniseed, Cloves, and Ginger Brandy. SEDGWICK'S Brandies were the only Brandies which were awarded Prizes, and all of them were "FIRSTS" J. SEDGWICK & CO., LTD. Colonial Wine Merchants and Distillers, Head Office : CAPE TOWN Distilleries : Wellington 2-41, Somerset Road. and Goudini Road, 186 Van Riebeek Natural Mineral Water is a product of the Cape Province. The source of supply is the Tygerberg, some 12 miles from Cape Town. The water is conveyed from the spring to the Bottling Department--a distance of six miles-in pure bloc tin piping. The works are the most commodious of its kind South of the Line. Se Van Riebeek Water has the largest sale of all Natural Mineral Waters in South Africa. Obtainable on all the railway systems and in all first-class clubs and hotels throughout the country. XVII.-BULAWAYO THE township of Bulawayo (“ the place of execution ”) has a population of 5,199, and is the largest and, from an industrial and commercial point of view, the most important centre in Rhodesia. It is the headquarters of the Rhodesian railway system, and is the point from which five railway lines radiate, one going to Gwelo Salisbury and Beira, one to the Victoria Falls and the Congo, one to West Nicholson, one to the Matopos, and one to Kimberley and Cape Town. The site of the first settlement of Bulawayo (1893) was beyond Sauer's Township, three miles to the north of the present town and one mile south-east of Govern- ment House. The remains of the brick stores and houses which formed the first camp of the pioneer settlers can still be seen. It was abandoned in 1894 in favour of the present site. Neither the earlier nor the present site was the site of the royal kraal of Lobengula, though statements connecting one or other with the latter are frequently made. Where once stood Lobengula's kraal now stands Government House. The site now occupied by the railway station was once the military kraal of Lobengula's regiment, and the traces of the kraal may still be seen. Bulawayo occupies an open, undulating down of country on the plateau separating the Zambesi and the Limpopo watershed. It is therefore well drained and consequently perfectly healthy at all times of the year. Wide and distant views are to be obtained from the higher parts of the town. Umfazimiti, an isolated hill, lies to the north, and Thabas Induna, another isolated hill, to the north-east, ten miles away. To the north-east lie the Makukukupeni Hills (12 miles), to the south the Matjesumhlope Kopjes (14 miles), to the west the valleys of Khami and Gwaai. 187 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 66 The town covers an area of 1,400 acres, and is sur- rounded by a commonage of 22,734 acres, the boundaries of which are from three to four miles away. The thoroughfares are wide and well kept, and consist of avenues and streets which intersect each other at right angles ; the streets run from S.S.E. to N.N.W. In the centre stands a fine market hall, surrounded by an open space called the Market Square. On the east of the town lies the main residential quarter, known as the Suburbs, and connected with town by splendid motor roads. There is a Church of England school in the Suburbs, the St. Peter's Diocesan School. Between the Suburbs and town runs the Matjesumhlope River, on the sub- urban” side of which are laid out parks and botanical and zoological gardens ; above the west bank stand the Government High Schools and boarding houses, each in some 16 acres of ground ; the girls' school is named after Lady Milton, and the boys' after H.H. the Adminis- trator. The Government Primary School is near the Milton School on its south side ; and near the Eveline School, on its west side, is the new Anglican Church. St. George's High School, a double storey building, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers, and the Convent School, also of two storeys, both schools having boarding-houses attached, are between the commercial centre of the town and the railway station on the south. The Roman Catholic Church, the Memorial Hospital, the Volunteer Drill Hall, the Wesleyan Church, and the Great Northern Hotel are all in the The Grand Hotel is situated in a central position in Main Street. Opposite is the Empire Theatre, an ornate building capable of seating 500 people, and having up-to-date stage equipment. The Palace Theatre, also a new building, is in Abercorn (the next) Street. It accommodates over 1,000 people, and possesses the largest stage of any theatre in South Africa, having also every convenience. Both theatres are frequently visited by touring theatrical companies, musical and dramatic, and are occasionally used as concert-halls. At other times excellent cinematograph same area. 188 IT 12 Dio 11CHAT Bulawayo : (1) Mashonaland Agency Buildings. (2) Public Library. (3) Grand Hotel. 189 Bulawayo Park Scenes. 190 BULAWAYO picture entertainments are given, the topical events of the United Kingdom often being “ screened ” within three weeks of their happening. At the junction of Main Street and Eighth Avenue stands an extremely impressive statue of the late Cecil John Rhodes, ever looking to the North.” The statue, which is of bronze and 12 feet high, and mounted on a 10 feet 6 inches pedestal of Matopo granite, is the work of Mr. John Tweed, of Chelsea. It is the only statue existing for which Mr. Rhodes actually sat as model. The cost was borne by the Bulawayo Town Council and by the public, and the statue was unveiled on the 7th July, 1904, by the then Mayor, the late Mr. J. E. Scott. Immediately on the left (facing north) is the Bulawayo Club, with the Rhodesia Museum, and also the Public Library, a few yards away. Ahead of the Club are the new Municipal offices and post, telegraph and Customs offices, and on the right the Commercial Offices of the British South Africa Company. At the junction of Main Street with Selborne Avenue (named in honour of a visit from Lord Selborne as High Commissioner of South Africa), stands the '96 Rebellion Monument, erected “ To the memory of those 259 pioneers of civil- isation who lost their lives during the Matabele Rebel- lion. A.D. 1896,” and whose names are engraved on the four sides, on marble panels. A Gardner gun, which was employed in quelling the rebellion, is mounted at the top of the monument. Beyond, on the left, at the corner of Sixth Avenue, is the High Court ; on the right is the Rhodesia Club, and in Abercorn Street, some distance away, the Presbyterian Church and the Jewish Synagogue. There are numerous sports grounds in Bulawayo. The town is administered by a Mayor and Municipal Council. The rateable value is about £1,840,684. New buildings, to the value of over £100,000, are now being erected yearly. Licences for about 500 private and 50 public vehicles (exclusive of rickshaws) are taken out yearly ; of these vehicles, nearly 100 are motor cars or cabs. Town and Suburbs are lighted by electricity 191 GUIDE TO RHODESIA > and water is laid on, both light and water being supplied by a private company under concession. Beyond the town proper, on the south-east, is the resi- dential district of Hillside ; and on the west is the Police Camp, with the native location slightly to the north. Follow short descriptions of certain features of Bula- wayo and district of general interest :- Municipal Zoological Garden.-Situated in the North Park just beyond the greenhouses and overlooking the bowling greens. Though inaugurated only in 1910, very fair progress has been made and a great deal done in the way. of providing suitable permanent accommodation. For specimens the Zoo is entirely dependent on presentations. Collection includes :-Male lion, female lion, cheetah, three side-striped jackals, two genets, squirrel, hyæna, two wart- hogs, two bush pigs, two baboons, five monkeys, six spurwing geese, peacocks and peahens, three camels, eland bull, bushbuck, and a number of smaller species of buck. Parks.-Altogether there are about 300 acres available for cultivation purposes, split up into three portions of about 100 acres each and known as the North, Central, and South Parks. The South Park is the show place, and is well worth visiting. Frequent promenade concerts are given on Sunday afternoons and on moonlight nights. The North Park, however, is not devoid of interest ; here are pretty walks and drives, as well as the Zoo, bowling greens, and green- houses. Little or no cultivation has as yet been done in the South Park, a portion of which is utilised as a golf links. Rhodesia Museum.--Founded 1901. Present building forms what will be a wing of the main building which will be erected when funds permit. The collections embrace some fine mounted specimens of Rhodesian animals, birds, reptiles, etc., and a comprehensive exhibition of rocks and minerals of the country ; the ethnological section includes specimens of native industry and relics found at Great Zimbabwe and other prehistoric Rhodesian ruins. Illustrated guides to the ethnological section, 2s. 6d. each, on sale at the Museum. Museum open : 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. every week-day except Wednesdays, when the opening hour is 9.30 a.m. Curator : G. Arnold. Public Library.—The Reading Room (which contains all the latest issues of the principal papers and magazines of South Africa and the United Kingdom) is free to all, and open daily. Visitors can obtain books on loan on a monthly ticket 192 BULAWAYO costing 5s. There are over 8,000 volumes. Ordinary sub- scription, £2 per year. Reference Room open only to subscribers, monthly or annual. On the wall of the Reading Room is a large oil-painting by Allan Stuart, dedicated “ To the memory of brave men.' The subject is the last stand of Major Alan Wilson and his men at Shangani during the Matabele War, 1893. The picture is the property of the town. Librarian : D. Niven. Bulawayo Observatory and Meteorological Station.-Situated in Lawley Road (North), Suburbs. Director : Rev. Father E. Goetz, S.J., M.A., F.R.A.S. The only meteorological station in Rhodesia. The Observatory is not a public institution, being carried on and maintained entirely at the expense of the local Fathers of the Order of Jesus, save for a small annual Government grant. A vast amount of work with an infinitude of detail is constantly going on, such as the collection of data concerning the rainfall in all parts of Rhodesia, the tabulation of the force and direction of the wind, the kceping of automatic records of the humidity of the atmosphere and of evaporation, the gauging of the heat, sunshine recording, and the preparation of comparative statistics, noting variation in declination and intensity of the magnetism of the earth, correcting the time of day and setting chronometers and theodolites, and determining latitudes and longitudes, etc. There is a prismatic astrolabe, a 5-in. telescope, and photographer's apparata for recording degrees of brilliance of stars, and an instrument for noting earth- quakes. Memorial Hospital.-Founded in 1894, in commemoration of the pioneers and early settlers who fell in the Matabele War, 1893. The wards are named after Captains Borrow, Judd, Fitzgerald, and Kirton ; other wards are the Victoria, Grey, and Alan Wilson. Hospital maintained by public subscription and by Government grant. Controlled by a Board composed of six elected members and four nominated by Government. Wards fitted with the latest hospital equipment ; operating theatre and the X-ray rooms compare most favourably with any in South Africa. Paying patients are admitted under the care of any private medical prac- titioner ; free patients are solely under the care of the Medical Superintendent. Wards : Maternity, Children's, Isolation, Native, Indian, and Cape Boys'. Staff : Resident Medical Superintendent, Matron, Dispenser, and 24 nurses ; Secretary, H. W. Garbutt, P.O. Box 181. Funds are urgently needed. 193 G GUIDE TO RHODESIA Turf Club and Racecourse.-Racecourse (including polo grounds) is situated one mile and a half from the centre of the town eastwards. Extends over 200 acres of ground, upon which are laid out a flat course two miles round, an additional straight of five furlongs, and a steeplechase course of about two miles. Two grand-stands, one for members and one for the general public. Numerous hack and gymkhana meetings are held yearly. Secretary: H. S. Hopkins, Library Buildings. Golf Links.-Šituated midway between the town and the Suburbs, with club-house in the South Park, adjoining Ninth Avenue, and about seven minutes' walk from the business centre of the town. Special fees for tourists and visitors. Pro- fessional : Jack Fotheringham. Holes : 18. Bogey score : 78. Putting greens : Finely sifted granite sand. Course abounds in natural hazards. A special feature is the skilful use that has been made of the Matjesumhlope River, which winds its way in a most fantastic manner throughout the entire length of the course ; any score under 80 represents fine golf. Hon. Secretary : A. H. Hill, P.O. Box 688. EXCURSIONS FROM BULAWAYO. GOVERNMENT HOUSE.-Situated three miles to the north from the centre of Bulawayo. Was originally built by Mr. Rhodes, and stands on the site of the official residence of Lobengula, his private kraal being at Umvutcha (see page 183). The only evidence of the official kraal to-day is the “Indaba”: tree, a few yards east of Government House, which once stood in the centre of Lobengula's kotla, or audience enclosure, Under the shade of this tree Lobengula was wont to confer with his indunas (chiefs) and to dispense justice, and here was signed, on February 11th, 1888, the Agreement with the Imperial Government. It may be noted that Lobengula succeeded his father, MʼZilikazi, as ruler of the Matabele in 1870, being then 37 years of age. Government House is connected with Bulawayo by means of a magnificent wide avenue, about two miles in length. The House was consider- ably enlarged in 1910 on the occasion of the visit of Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, who stayed at Government House as the guests of the President and Directors of the British South Africa Company. BUSHMAN'S HAUNT.-A romantically picturesque spot within four miles to the south-east of the Bulawayo Post Office. In some very remote time it was the abode of the Bushmen, the aboriginal inhabitants of Rhodesia. Here is 194 BULAWAYO 66 their rock shelter or dwelling, while round about are to be found examples of their handiwork in the form of rock- paintings. Later, a teeming population of some wall-building negroid people occupied the place. These erected a number of stone walls, one of which is over three-quarters of a mile in length, six feet in width, and, in parts, still six feet in height. Still later, probably in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, the place was the site of a huge settlement of Karanga, the township” consisting of over two hundred huts with stone bases. They were essentially an iron-working people, the traces of their industry being found everywhere round about. In 1838, on the arrival of the Matabele, there was still a large Karanga town on this site. Subsequently it became one of the principal cattle-stations, first of MʼZilikazi, and then of Lobengula, one of whose queens resided here. Throughout the Matabele occupation of the site the Haunt was a lodge for the initiation of youths into the mysteries of the tribe and for their training in warfare and hunting. Until recently Bushman's Haunt was the residence of Mr. R. N. Hall, author of Great Zimbabwe,' ,” “Prehistoric Rhodesia,” etc., and now the Curator of Zimbabwe Ruins. HOPE FOUNTAIN.-An important station of the London Missionary Society, ten miles south-east of Bulawayo. Is approached by a good road suitable for motor-cars. The place is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, and frequently visited by residents and visitors to the country. Missionary in charge : The Rev. C. D. Helm, who joined the station in 1873. Mr. Helm is the veteran pioneer missionary of the country and greatly esteemed. He was a trusted friend of Lobengula and acted as a witness to the Matabele king's signature to the Rudd Concession. CROMBIE'S STORE AND GARDENS.—A place of resort ten miles east of Bulawayo. Makes an interesting objective for an afternoon's ride or drive. Road is usually in good condition. FORESTVALE HOTEL.-Three miles west of the town. A pleasant afternoon's drive along a good road through bush veld. There is an extensive view from the summit of the kopje close to the Hotel. Bowling alley. Excursions can also be taken to the Queen's Gold Mine, Inyati (L.M.S. Mission), and the Lonely Gold Mine, all on the same route. Mail coach and motor-car services twice a week from Bulawayo, returning the following day. : 195 G 2 XVIII.-KHAMI RUINS THESE ruins are situated on what is known as the Hyde Park Estate, owned by Rhodesia Consolidated, Ltd. They are about 14 miles W.N.W of Bulawayo, and are easily accessible by motor-car or other vehicle. They cover an area of over two square miles, though ruined walls are to be found beyond this. At the top of a rise at three and a-half miles from Bulawayo is a magnificent extensive view over the Khami Valley, beyond which, and running parallel to it, can be seen the line of the Gwaai Valley. The road then bears to the west, and at ten miles the Ingangene River is crossed. At this point the road turns slightly north. The ruins of importance number twelve and are mostly situated on various kopjes, but a few are in the valleys ; eleven are on the west side of the Khami River. There are also several ruins which have never been examined, and the foundations of other former buildings may yet be discovered. The greater part of the Khami area is still unexplored. Almost everywhere are to be found layers of debris, these pointing to prolonged occupa- tion by huge bodies of people, one after another; and in the debris has been found pottery made by at least three distinct tribes of people. It may fairly be accepted that the successive occupations of Khami have been as follow : 1. The original builders, Bantu, on whose aborigine culture had been grafted in a decadent form the perfected Zimbabwe culture. Period: Just prior to A.D. 915, when rock-mining operations for gold had already ceased as a main industry, when river-sand washing was at its height, and when the best methods of Zimbabwe building had already fallen into desuetude ; and after the Zimbabwe ceremonial had become lost in oblivion, and when the general use of gold ornaments had passed by. These people finally abandoned the ruins, which then fell into a state of complete dilapidation. 2. Ma-Karanga, whose occupation as a paramount people ceased about A.D. 1300. These people effected repairs to fallen 196 Bulawayo : (1) Raylton Institute. (2) The Upper Reservoir. 197 0 Umale mbus Old Kraal Me alipo x Outspan Outspan Plan of 11 وه. KHAMI RUINS Rough broken ground LKHEAST 0 Road R.N. Hall F.R.CS 198 GUIDE TO RHODESIA built upon a fortuitous plan, for which the nature of their position on kopjes is responsible. All these are peculiarities which constitute the main evidence of the decadent methods of construction of the later stone-builders in this country. These methods are further evidenced in the quality of the repairs, reconstruction, and enlargements of every one of the Rhodesian ruins belonging to the prehistoric or Zim- babwe temple type of building. The objects sought by the original builders of Khami are obvious : to provide strongholds against attack, and storage for gold won from over a large extent of country of which Khami forms the centre, to protect grain-growing areas, and provide storage for the grain needed by the labourers on the mines, for labour was employed to an almost inconceivable extent. The buildings were strongholds and places of refuge and storage, rather than dwellings, the dwellings being of lighter structure and located on the spaces between the ruins. Under the surface soil is a fine black mould several feet in depth, which is full of pieces of animal bones and charred wood, containing also quantities of sherds of native pottery of Ba-Rosie and Ma-Karanga make, old spear - heads, and iron bangles, etc. Under the mould is usually a deep stratum of yellow soil which contains no articles whatever, but underneath this gold articles, Persian pottery, and Nankin china have been found in several of the ruins. The yellow stratum appears to have been formed by a natural siltation of the soil after the original occupiers had abandoned the ruins, and presupposes a prolonged period between this abandonment and the arrival of the first set of sub- sequent settlers. The remains of the clay huts to be seen on the present surface of the interior of the ruins are of three distinct types—the clay-sided huts of the Ba-Rosie, the clay rims for the support of the wood sides of the Ma-Karanga dwellings, and the sunken floors and parapet clay stoep rims with radiating walls from the central structure, which are typical of the Baralong or Leghoya hut. 200 Khami Ruins : Newly-discovered Passage. 201 Photos byl [Lennon, Ltd. Khami Ruins : (1) Main entrance, No. 1 Ruin. (2) Precipice Ruin (No. 9). 202 KHAMI RUINS 66 Painted numbers on iron plates are fixed prominently in or near the ruins. These numbers correspond with the numbers of the ruins on the plan in this Guide, and with the description of each which are here given. More detailed information of the Ruins is contained in “ The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia ” (Hall and Neal), and Pre-Historic Rhodesia " (R. N. Hall). Fuller in- formation is also given in the “ Illustrated Guide to Khami Ruins” (R. N. Hall), published by Philpott and Collins, Bulawayo, 2s. No. 1 RUIN.—Is, with Ruins 2, 3, and 4, situated on a prominent kopje directly overlooking the west bank of the river. The commanding and strategic position of the hill, its naturally defended sides, and its close proximity to a perennial supply of water no doubt served to attract the original builders of Khami to it. The hill runs from north to south and is approached at its south end. An ascending defile leads to the summit-evidently the main approach to all the ruins on this hill-and the ruin is on the east side of it. The hill is divided into three plateaux, partly natural and partly artificial. No. 2 RUIN.-Situated about 40 feet north of No. 1 Ruin, at the north-east of Plateau C. Has a diameter of about 80 feet. On the western front are terraces with about five feet or six feet between each. The lower tier is 7 feet high ; total height of tiers, about 20 feet. On a platform at the south-west corner is a large oval-shaped flat boulder on which were once to be seen stones laid in the form of a cross. Up to May, 1900, this was practically perfect. It was probably the work of the Portuguese missionaries referred to. No. 3 RUIN.—Situated on a low knoll about 30 feet north of No. 2 Ruin. Consists of a wall, a portion of a circle, 114 feet long, with an angular entrance, 24 feet wide-angular structures point to a later date of construction. At the entrance are remains of three flights of steps leading inwards. Wall on the outside has several rows of check pattern. Near the top are blocks of diorite, in courses, still showing marks of tools. On the present extreme top course, facing south- east, are, or were, four tiles of diorite, the remains of a course of herring-bone pattern, which probably ran along the whole length of the wall. In 1898 this extended for three feet. The building at one time had several levels of floors. On the upper strata of the floors have been found two large pieces of 203 GUIDE TO RHODESIA melted copper and copper and iron articles of very old native make, and, at depth, gold crucibles and gold ornaments. No. 4 RUIN.-On the site of the present structures was evidently a fort, protecting the main approach to this hill. The ruin is situated on the left-hand side of the defile. Here are the remains of a circular clay hut of,conjecturally, Leghoya construction, with its outside face of rude stonework. The blocks used in its casing were evidently not dressed to shape by the builders of the hut, but were taken from older walls. Hut has a diameter of 22 feet. No.5 Ruin.-Situated about midway between the Hill Ruins and 'Trecipice Ruin” (No. 9). Is in the form of a half-circle. Is built in two or three terraces or tiers, on the south side in five terraces. Walls on the outer side average, at their present reduced height, from six to seven feet high, and are two feet six inches in width across their present reduced tops. No. 6 RUIN.—Situated about 500 yards south-west of No. 5 Ruin. ('onsists of a long curved wall, about five feet in height and 150 feet in length, with check pattern interspersed, facing west to north-west. Entrance is on the north-west side and has squared side walls. From this entrance and running at right angles inwards are traces of a passage, but this has been completely and deliberately filled in by subsequent squatters in order to make a raised platform for their huts. The ruin is not believed to be contemporary with the main ruins at Khami. It shows a poor class of workmanship and a poor class of building material. No. 7 Ruin. Is built up against a kopje 500 yards south- west of No. 6 Ruin. On the summit of the kopje is a large poised stone. Structure consists of a wall 45 feet long, with traces of a greater length, and eight feet high, on the plan of two-thirds of a circle, the diameter being about 50 feet. The courses are very irregular. Walls remaining show check pattern. The remarks as to the age of No. 6 Ruin apply to this ruin. The valleys round about this spot give evidences of the occupation of a large population of subsequent squatters, as do also the neighbouring hillsides. No. 8 Ruin.-Situated on a low knoll between the bases of two high kopjes, and on their western side. A very pretty ruin. The finds made at depth within it have been of great interest to antiquarians, while the archæologist considers it to present evidences of the greatest value in proving and dis- proving many of the theories which have been discussed concerning the origin of the whole group of ruins at Khami. Among the finds are some nuggets of tin and some gold articles 204 KHAMI RUINS at seven feet below the present level of the enclosed area, examples of Persian pottery and Nankin china, and, in 1910, a buried passage at a depth of 8 feet or 9 feet. The passage was discovered hy Mr. Ř. N. Hall. Ruin is almost circular in plan, and divided into at least six compartments ; subse. quent squatters have filled in these enclosures in order to make platforms for their clay huts. The interior is reached by the passage, which extends inwards from the west side, is about 60 feet in length, and from 4 feet to 5 feet in width. No. 9 (OR PRECIPICE) Ruin.—An important ruin, situated on a kopje immediately overlooking the river and facing west, being one of the most southerly of the ruins. Has the remains of the largest, most highly decorated, and best built wall of any in the Khami group. The front wall is most massive in character. It faces west for a length of 200 feet, and is built in two tiers, the total height being about 27 feet. Is decorated with check pattern along its entire length, this mural adornment being in three rows from near the centre of its length towards the south, and in two rows for the remainder of its length towards the north. Archæologists and local architects believe the northern length of face to be a restoration, the joint being between the two rows and three rows of pattern, at which point there is also a difference in the size of the granite blocks on either side. The southern section of the wall is in a finer state of preservation, is of greater age, and appears to have been the more carefully constructed. The first enclosure reached still practically retains its original level, but the plat- form or raised surface to the south was brought to its present level by subsequent squatters in erecting their clay-sided huts, the foundations of which can still be traced. The eastern side of the ruin is naturally protected by a cliff precipice which renders it inaccessible on this side. Visitors should not miss seeing the view which is here obtainable. No. 10 RUIN.—The only ruin on the east or outspan side of the river. Is on the left-hand side of the road from Bula- wayo, on a knoll about 1,000 yards before the outspan is reached. It consists of two walls running parallel to each other for about 80 feet. The front or outer wall is about three feet high, the second or inner, three feet behind it, seven feet high. Both are well built. The inner wall has a check pattern along its whole front facing south-west and west. The side walls of the entrance are also well built. On the raised surface inside the building are to be seen the circular foundations of huts, evidently the dwellings of later occupiers. 205 XIX.-THE MATOPO HILLS It is a comparatively low hill of the Matopo range in which the remains of Mr. C. J. Rhodes are interred. The Matopo area is a mass of compact hills, some ap- proaching in size and height to the dignity of mountains. The range stretches for about fifty miles from east to west, and for about twenty-five miles from north to south. The highest point of the series is on the north- east of the range, and is about 5,100 feet above sea-level. Principal hills : Sotjia, Impu, Solozi, Injelele, I- Nungu, N'Tedzi, Chilili, Kantoli, Khozi, I-Koinga, each of which tests the climber's abilities in no small degree. Many of the hills are associated in the Karanga mind with hoary traditions of their race, some being venerated hills, and others “rain-dance hills " whereon, about October in each year, nude Karanga maidens still dance and make offerings to the spirits of the departed, so as to ensure timely and favourable rains. The occupiers of the Matopos are almost without exception Ma-Karanga. The Bushmen, the first human inhabitants of the country, made their homes in the inaccessible parts of the Matopo range from some dimly remote past in post - Neolithic times down to a few centuries ago. A number of rock-paintings have been discovered, and doubtless many more will be located as time goes on. There are also at least a score of ruined structures in the range, but all are of small size and resemble the decadent type of buildings to be found in all parts of Matabeleland. THE NATURAL WALL. .. One of the greatest points of interest in the Matopos is undoubtedly the phenomenon called the 66 Natural Wall” (Native: Sentendebudzi). It consists of a dyke of diorite stone running in a perfectly straight line from north to south through the centre of the range. So far it has been traced from just west of the Matopo Terminus to a point in the mopani country five miles 206 Natural Wall, Matopos, showing the Giant's Portal. 207 The Matopo Hotels : (1) Overlooking the Dam, (2) At the Railway Terminus. 208 THE MATOPO HILLS is a south of the range, thus making an ascertained length of 27 miles, but it may extend further still. The best points of view, where the wall is highest and least dilapidated, are : (1) At 14 miles N.N.W. of Mr. Savory's farmstead and 500 yards from the east side of the Matopo (railway) Ter- minus-Solozi wagon-track, and (2) At M’Zila's kraal, about half a mile east of the same track, where it passes the south end of Farnona. These two points are within a twenty minutes' motor- car drive of the Terminus. At the first point, which is five miles from the Terminus, the wall is about 45 feet in height, with perpendicular and regular sides, and about 12 yards wide on top. It appears at first sight to have been built of angular blocks, but an inspection is sufficient to show that it is perfectly natural, and a geological phenomenon only. The splitting of the rock in horizontal and vertical lines makes it appear as if blocks are laid in courses”; in many instances there true bonding” and a “ fair distribution of the joints," while "throughs" are not absent. At the second point, the wall shows an opening as of a portal, with a huge pillar on either side. This portal is, of course, perfectly natural ; it has been caused by dilapi- dation. The name Sentendebudzi is purely Chi-Karanga. It means an obstacle which must be gone round. THE CAVE OF THE M’RIMO PRIEST. Further in the range is the Cave of the M’Rimo (M’Limo) Priest, round which for centuries have hovered the religious ideas and superstitions of the Karanga. The spot, which is even yet associated in their minds with their tribal traditions, is about four miles west of the outspan in the Antelope Pass, the outspan being some three miles north of the southern extremity of the pass. Injelele (the Slippery-Sided) Mountain, which, miscalled Jaleb in Occupation records and Rebellion books and writings, is a conspicuous landmark and believed to be the third highest hill in the Matopos, marks the locality, though the cave is not actually 209 GUIDE TO RHODESIA in the mountain itself. It is situated high up in fa rocky nek, connecting the lower shoulder at the eastern end of Injelele with a line of hills running east. It is best approached from the stream Matanda, close to the north-eastern side of Injelele, up a steep and tortuous ravine. A guide to the entrance can be obtained at the kraal of the nearest headman, N'Dota, about a mile north-east of the mountain, but the guide will refuse to take the visitor into the cave itself. On the occasion of the writer's visit no offer of money would get his guides nearer than thirty yards to the cave entrance. They were evidently nervous, and, with his own per- sonal servants, did nothing else but clap hands. One of the guides, N’Dota, stated that, so far as his people knew, if he (the writer) went inside he would be the first white man to do so since the Rebellion—that is, if one went in then, which they doubted. Tempted by a substantial bribe, two of the writer's “ boys,” both ex-policemen and mission boys, followed him in. Abject fear was written on their faces, and they clapped hands the whole time until back in honest daylight. Two tall rocks stand in advance of either side of the entrance to the cave, and the space between them is barred by a strong fencing of thin, tall poles of a very hard wood. In the barrier is a narrow creep-hole about two feet in height and just wide enough for a man to squeeze through. Inside is a small open space on which the entrance to the actual cave opens, and in which are a quantity of eland, koodoo, and other horns, all exceedingly old, and some decayed. Across the cave mouth is a second barrier, with a similar opening. The cave has several separate chambers, access to which is through exceedingly narrow fissures. The floors are on different levels. The first chamber has a low roof and is perfectly dark. At the time of the writer's visit, pots of excellent make were ranged upside down round the sides. There were no signs of anyone having been killed in this or in any of the chambers. Daylight enters the second chamber, and ranged round the side here were votive offerings of cones of tobacco, bundles 210 THE MATOPO HILLS of iron hoes fastened together with bark, large pots upside down, copper bangles, and horns of buck. There is also an upper chamber, into which daylight also penetrates. The whole place and its contents were redolent of suggestions of the oracle's priest. According to local natives no one consulting the priest was allowed to enter the cave; all consultations took place inside the open space between the two barriers. The priest and his family lived in a village just below the ravine, but the. kraal has been abandoned for over ten years. The cave still exercises a potent influence on the native mind and imagination, and votive offerings are even now brought to the shrine. The M’Rimo was but a spirit, probably an ancestral shade ; it dates from 1560, and even earlier. It was, and is still, held to have the power of causing death, illness, personal harm, and failure of crops. Fear of evil consequences alone induced the natives to consult its oracle. No chief would be elected, no war or raid entered upon, no crops sown or harvested, unless the M’Rimo priest had first assured the people that the proposed act or policy would not bring evil upon them. The men who acted as intermediaries between the people and the M’Rimo were of good family, well versed in native traditions, and of exceptionally high intelli- gence. They were drawn only from members of a certain family. They had secret agents in all parts of the country, and knew almost everything that was happening ; no one could approach the cave without them being first advised as to the condition of the suppliant and everything concerning him. M'Zilikazi, the Matabele king, always, and Lobengula often, con- sulted the M’Rimo oracle of the Karanga whom he had subjected. The Matabele also consulted it prior to their rising in 1896. “ VIEW OF THE WORLD” AND MR. RHODES'S GRAVE. I admire the grandeur and loneliness of the Matopos in Rhodesia, and therefore I desire to be buried in the Ma pos, on the hill which I used to visit and which I called the “ View 2II THE MATOPO HILLS of Sauerdale property, a part of my said landed property near Bulawayo, be planted with every possible tree, and be made and preserved as a park.” Mr. Rhodes's wishes have been closely followed, and the results are now beginning to justify the large amount of labour and time and money which the scheme has involved. Mr. W. E. Dowsett is in charge of the work. Much has also been done to add to the natural beauty of the park itself. One of the most interesting features of the park is a collection of specimens of Rhodesian fauna. These run loose in a large enclosure surrounded by a strong seven-foot fence, and include giraffe, eland, waterbuck, and sable. Despite their captivity, the sable have thrived especially well. The entire collection may often be seen lying down or grazing quietly together. At the actual entrance to the park are handsome iron gates which were presented by the late Mr. Alfred Beit. The exit is reached three miles further on. Another two miles brings the traveller to the “ outspan " at the foot of World's View. The rest of the journey is negotiated on foot. This necessitates a walk of three-quarters of a mile up a slope which rises several hundred feet to the huge boulder-crowned hill where amid a scene of solitary grandeur the mortal remains of Rhodesia's Founder lie beneath a plain brass plate bearing the simple inscription : Here lie the remains of Cecil John Rhodes. The view from the grave is magnificent, unique. Of it there can be no finer description than that of Mr. Rhodes himself: A “ View of the World.” THE SHANGANI MEMORIAL. A hundred and fifty yards away from Rhodes's Grave is a huge granite monument raised as a memorial to, and containing the bodies of, Major Alan Wilson and the little band of early Rhodesian settlers who lost their lives in the memorable fight with the Matabele hordes at Shangani in 1893. The monument, erected by Mr. Rhodes's direction, is Grecian in style and built of blocks of granite quarried out of an adjacent kopje ; each block weighs ten tons. On each of the four sides 213 GUIDE TO RHODESIA is a bronze panel containing life-size figures in high relief of the members of the ill-fated party. Mr. John Tweed was the sculptor. A short explanatory inscription will be found let into one of the steps at the base. It contains a full list of names, and ends with the following impres- sive line from one of Kipling's poems : There was no Survivor. The following is a list of officers, non-commissioned officers, and men of the Victoria and Salisbury Columns who were killed at Shangani, on December 4th, 1893 :- Major Alan Wilson (Victoria Rangers), Officer Commanding. VICTORIA RANGERS. Captains Frederick Fitzgerald, William Joseph Judd, Harry Moxon Greenfield, Argent Blundell Kirton. Lieutenants George Hughes, Arend Hermanus Hofmeyr. Troop-Sergeant-Major Sidney Charles Harding. Sergeants Harold Alexander Brown, Clifford Bradburn. Corporal Frederick Crossley Colquhoun. Troopers Edward Earle Welby, John Robertson, Alexander Hay Robertson, Harold John Hellet, Denis Cronly Dillon. SALISBURY HORSE. Captain Henry John Borrow. Sergeant William Henry Birkley. Corporal Harry Graham Kinloch. Troopers Harold Dalton Watson Moore Money, Frank Leon Vogel, L. Dewis, William Henry Britton, Philip Wouter De Vos, Thomas Colclough Watson, Henry George Watson, Edward Brock, William Bath, Percy Crampton Nunn, Henry St. John Tuck, Wm. Alexander Thomson, William Abbott, George Sawers Mackenzie, Matthew Meiklejohn. World's View Cave Paintings. About half a mile south-south-west of the Outspan, and three-quarters of a mile west-north-west of “World's View,” is World's View Cave, containing a number of rock paintings. The paintings are certainly interesting, though the series obviously falls very far short of many of those in other caves in the Matopos. The path thereto first descends into a ravine, from which it emerges on to a level bit of land. The cave is a few feet up the north-north-west side of a cluster of boulders which fringe this piece of ground on the south-west. 214 XX-ITINERARY: BULAWAYO TO VICTORIA FALLS STARTING westwards from Bulawayo Station, the line to the Victoria Falls proceeds in a north-westerly direction, passing along the Bulawayo Commonage for two miles. Where the rail leaves the Commonage is the northern edge of the granite formation and the commencement of the area of sedimentary freestone, which extends as far as the Falls. The aspect of the country consequently becomes changed from rugged kopjes and varied scenery to that of undulating waves of land with no hill scenery until the Wankie district is reached. The cou from Bulawayo (4,468 feet), has a decided fall towards the north-west as far as Wankie (2,448 feet). Between Wankie and Victoria Falls Station, which occupies a high position overlooking the Falls, there is a rise of 546 feet. Pasipas Siding (4,178 feet), 13 miles from Bulawayo. Is close to the west foot of Pasipas Kopje. This hill is of sandstone and is the source of the white and also of the red and pink freestones seen in the buildings of Bula- wayo. Stone is frequently sent to Salisbury, Mafeking, and Kimberley, and it is said that, on the whole, better stone has not been worked anywhere in South Africa or Australia. On the west side of the railway is the valley of the Khami River, where can be seen several farmsteads. The land for as far as three miles from the river on either side is rich alluvial soil. Just before Redbank Siding is reached, the line crosses the border of the Bulawayo and Nyamandhlovu districts. Nyamandhlovu District has an area of about 60 miles from north to south and about 120 miles from east to west. It is bounded on the south-east by Bulawayo District, on the east by Bubi District, on the south-west by Bulalima- 215 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Mangwe District, on the west by the Bechuanaland Protectorate, and on the north by Wankie District. The country formation is sandstone. The principal river is the Gwaai, others being the Insiza, Umgusa, and Khami, all east bank tributaries of the Gwaai ; and the Nata, or Manzinyama, which flows westerly into the Great Makari-kari Lake in the Protectorate. District is traversed from south-east to north by the railway, and has the following stations or sidings : Redbank, Morgan's Spur, Nyamandhlovu, Igusi, Saw Mills, Umzibani, Gwaai, Nyamo, and Intundhla. Average rainfall : 25 in. in the south, 20 in. in the north. The principal industries are agriculture, stock-raising, and timber- felling. There is no mining, though practically the whole valley of the Gwaai from west of Bulawayo to the Shangani confluence has been pegged as prospective coal-areas. The south-eastern portion of the district is practically all surveyed into farm holdings, many already being occupied. Redbank Siding (3,979 feet), 19 miles from Bulawayo. Serves several farms which extend along the Khami River. All the land in the locality has been surveyed into farms. Morgan Spur (3,929 feet), 24 miles from Bulawayo, is a siding specially intended for entraining local produce for Bulawayo. Nyamandhlovu Station (3,242 feet), 31 miles from Bulawayo. Name means the place of the elephant,” this being a locality where, until recently, herds of elephants roamed at will. Is the headquarters of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, and Police for the district. Station is an important distributing and col- lecting centre, some of the farms in the vicinity being the largest and most improved of any farms in Mata- beleland. Both buck and birds are well represented in the district. Igusi Siding (3,784 feet), 50 miles from Bulawayo. Situated on the highland separating the Insiza Valley from the Umgusa Valley. The line at this point is fairly in a dense teak or mahogany forest, known as the Gwaai Forest, which extends from the Khami to north of the Gwaai and along the Umgusa and Shangani valleys. The forest is one of the largest in Southern Rhodesia, 216 BULAW AYO TO VICTORIA FALLS covering 2,000 square miles. Its ant-proof timber (Igusi) is used extensively for building purposes. Siboboma Waterfall Spur (3,455 feet). Saw Mills Tank (3,487 feet), 57 miles from Bulawayo. Is on high ground, close to the northern bank of the Umgusa River. Is, as its name implies, the central point of the teak-felling industry in the Gwaai Forest. The sawmill has a capacity of about 4,000 cubic feet per month. Umzibani Halt (3,532 feet), 70 miles from Bulawayo. From this point the line descends towards the Gwaai River, near the point where it is joined by the Insiza River. Gwaai Siding (3,270 feet), 89 miles from Bulawayo. Is on the south bank of the Gwaai River, which here flows from south to north. Several farmers are settled in the locality. Ngamo Siding (3,341 feet), 112 miles from Bulawayo. Serves a belt of farm lands lying some ten to fifteen miles east of the line and on the west bank of the Gwaai River. On the west is the Gwaai Native Reserve, one of the most extensive native reserves in the country. Giraffes are occasionally seen along this section of the line, and elephants and zebras are also not infrequent visitors. About 200,000 acres of land along the Gwaai River was surveyed into farms shortly after the '96 Rebellion, but as yet only about 20,000 acres are occupied. Intundhla Siding (3,270 feet), „125 miles from Bula- wayo. Serves the farms near the Gwaai River on the east. The most northern outpost of the Nyamandhlovu district. Intundhla means the place of the giraffe. Shortly after leaving the siding the line passes into the Wankie district. Wankie District is the north-westernmost district in Southern Rhodesia. The name (Native : Wange) was the dynastic 217 BULAW AYO TO VICTORIA FALLS Near Kulunka's kraal, about two miles south of the Zambesi and 10 miles down stream from the confluence of the Gwaai and Zambesi, and at the foot of some low hills which run parallel to the river, is a geyser issuing from what appears to be solid sandstone. It is well above the level of the Zambesi. The “ throw” reaches a height of about 8 ft., and the aperture is a round hole 14 to 2 in. in diameter. Natives assert that formerly there was a greater volume of water and that it was then thrown to a height of 13 ft. The water has a slightly pungent smell. Dr. Hahn, Ph.D., found it to contain per gallon : Silica, 13.65 grains ; alumina and oxide of iron, 2.63; magnesia, '65 ; lime, 1.50 ; and chlorine, 2.11. The natives do not ascribe any curative properties to the water ; on the contrary, they say it exerts à supernatural influence on crops, etc., and consequently propitiatory ceremonies are occasionally held round it. From the confluence of the Gwaai and Zambesi to the Kariba Gorge on the latter river there are many hot springs on both sides of the Zambesi, but none takes the form of a geyser. Malindi Siding (3,498 feet), 147 miles from Bulawayo. Is a general centre for big - game hunters. Hunters usually proceed out westwards in the direction of the Bechuanaland Protectorate, and are conducted to the game localities by Maswara hunters, whose services as guides can be secured at Malindi. Here a passenger train from the Falls recently ran into and was derailed by a herd of thirty elephants which were crossing the rail, the engine being damaged and the cow-catcher snapped to pieces. The skull of the bull animal which was injured in the collision can be seen at the Siding. The animal measured 11 feet 1 inch at the shoulder and its tusks were 4 feet long. Malindi means " the holes” (elephant pools). Dett Siding (3,539 feet), 160 miles from Bulawayo. The southern end of the Wankie coal area. Inyantue Siding (3,096 feet), 177 miles from Bulawayo. Lukosi Siding (2,630 feet), 196 miles from Bulawayo. Wankie Station (2,448 feet), 212 miles from Bulawayo, 68 m Victoria Falls. Is an important centre 219 GUIDE TO RHODESIA for the district, but is best known by reason of the extensive colliery which adjoins it. Is the headquarters of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, and Police for the Wankie District. Coal was first pegged in the Wankie district by Mr. A. Giese. Prospecting operations were started in 1898, and the development of the present mine commenced in 1900. Coal for sale was first produced on the arrival of the railway at Wankie, in 1903. The owning company is the Wankie Colliery Company, which has the sole right to mine over 400 square miles. The reserve of coal in the mine on the seam now being worked, actually proved by development faces, is about 2,250,000 tons. Plus the coal already raised (about 1,250,000 tons), this exhausts the resources of slightly over half a square mile only. Electric power is used. Screen- ing is carried on at the rate of 1,500 tons in 10 hours ; a washer deals with 20 tons of slack coal per hour. Coke is produced at the rate of 65 tons per hour. A brick plant, capable of producing 120,000 bricks per month, is also at work. The white staff is housed in good buildings which have water laid on and are lighted by electricity, and the health of the community is now good, though some years ago this was far from being the case. Deka Siding (2,411 feet), 221 miles from Bulawayo, 59 miles from Victoria Falls. On the Deka River, which forms the northern boundary of the coal area. Katuna Siding (2,987 feet), 230 miles from Bulawayo, 50 miles from Victoria Falls. On the high land separating the Deka and Matetsi watersheds. Country is close bush, with fan palms and occasional baobab trees. Matetsi Siding (2,804 feet), 248 miles from Bulawayo 32 miles from Victoria Falls. On the Matetsi River Country to the north of the siding is covered for many miles with old surface workings on outcrops, believed to have been the work of natives very many years ago. To the west of the siding is Panda-ma-tenka, a place on the Bechuanaland and Rhodesian border, made famous by the early pioneer traders and hunters, At one time it was the only route to Barotseland, as all 220 APPOINTMENT The White Horse Cellar BY Ask specially for Estab 1742 то H.M. KING WHITE HORS: WHISKY Quality and Age absolutely unrivalled. Sole Proprietors :- Mackie & Co. Distillers Ltd Islay, Glasgow, Liverpool and London Established 1742 BULAWAYO TO VICTORIA FALLS other routes were blocked by fly until the rinderpest of 1896 cleared the country of game, when the fly disappeared. Several of the early pioneers, missionaries, and transport-riders are buried here, while along the road are scattered the forgotten graves of other pioneers. Mr. Frank Oates, the naturalist, and author of Through Matabeleland,” is buried near the Deka River, he having contracted fever at the Victoria Falls. Panda-ma-tenka : M'Panda, the name of a small tree extensively growing there and from which were cut the centre poles for huts; tenka, sky; hence “ Props of the Sky." Kesi Siding (3,489 feet), 266 miles from! Bulawayo, 14 miles from Victoria Falls. On the northern edge of high land which from this point descends towards the Zambesi. Victoria Falls Station (2,994 feet), 280 miles from Bulawayo. On the right, and within a hundred yards, is the Victoria Falls Hotel. Post office on the platform. On the left of the station are the Police and Native Commissioner's camps, and also Mr. Percy H. Clark's photographic studio. 2:21 XXI.-THE VICTORIA FALLS THE Zambesi is one of the four large rivers of the African continent. It has a perennial flow of over 1,700 miles. Bantu philologists claim that the name (more correctly spelt “Zambeze”) is but the slurred native pro- nunciation of Ambei, meaning “ Great Waters ” ; the prefix Z is, according to Bantu usage, introduced to give emphasis to the greatness of the waters, and the softening of the ending ei into esi or eze is a dialectic mutation only. The river rises at an altitude of 5,000 feet, in Latitude 11° 21' S, Longitude 24° 3' 22" E. From its source to the Victoria Falls, a distance of 800 miles, it is navigable in reaches of varying lengths, these lengths being determined by rapids and small falls; it enters Northern Rhodesia after flowing 70 miles. Principal tributaries—Right bank (above the Falls) : Luanginga, Nengo, Loeti, Longo, Lunyanti or Chobe ; (below the Falls): Gwaai, Sengwe, Sanyati, Angwa, Hunyani; Left bank (above the Falls): Kabompo, Luena, Luampa, Lui, Lumbi, Nioka, Machili, Umgwezi; (below the Falls): Kafue, Luangwa, Shiré. Principal rapids : Kariba, Kebra-basa, Lupata. At one time, in a not very remote geological period of the continent, the Zambesi delivered its waters, not eastwards, as at present, but southwards into a depression known as the Kalahari Desert, which after- wards became filled up with sediment, thus necessitating the enforcement of a new escape. In a country where there are few rivers that run all through the year, the Zambesi comes as an anomaly. The flood time of the Falls occurs after the rainy season is over, and continues well into the dry season. This phenomenon is due to the existence of swamp and marshes along its own banks and the banks of its tributary streams west of Kazungula, some sixty miles west of the Falls. These swamps or sponge areas take the first four months of the rainy season to become soaked and full, and they 222 LINE Shoals RIFER E s B THE VICTORIA FALLS > do not commence to yield their waters until towards and in the dry season. The Victoria Falls were discovered by Livingstone in 1855. They have not been brought about by any volcanic agency, but by a check to a deeper erosion of the bed of the river. This check is a resisting sheet of basalt some 200 miles in width and lying at an altitude of 2,900 feet. Formerly the river ran at a greater height than now, and was considerably wider. In course of time the formation over the basalt gradu- ally became eroded by the flow of the river, the bed of which eventually sank to the present level—i.e., on to the bare basalt itself. The gorge and the cañon zig- zagging from east to west are due to crevices in the basalt brought about by contraction and to the master joints which ran for great distances through the basalt. Running water formed the chasm. It will be noticed that the level of the land for many miles below the Falls is the same as that above them. The geological features of the Falls are described by Mr. A. J. C. Molyneux, F.G.S., in the Royal Geo- graphical Journal, January, 1905, and also in a paper contributed by him to the Proceedings of the Rhodesia Scientific Association, Vol. V, Part II, pp. 25-29. Dr. Livingstone's Description. Dr. Livingstone, who bestowed on this great natural wonder the name of Victoria Falls, first described them in the following terms : Of these falls we had often heard since we came into this country (mid-Zambesia). It was called by the natives Mosi-oa-tunya (“Smoke sounder there')* or more evidently Shongwe, which may mean a seething cauldron. After twenty minutes' sail in a canoe from Kalai we came in sight, * 66 Smoke sounder there," or Smoke which sounds,” are relatively quite modern names for the Falls, and were gathered by Dr. Livingstone from Mokololo interpreters, who were alien to this part of the country. The most venerable name for the Falls, going back to the remotest ascertained traditional times, is “ Shongwe -“boiling water in a pot.” 223 GUIDE TO RHODESIA for the first time, of the columns of vapour, appropriately called “smoke," rising, at a distance of five or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are burned in Africa. Five columns now arose, and bending in the direction of the sound, they seemed placed against a low ridge covered with trees ; the tops of the columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They were white below, and higher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke very closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety of colour and form. At the period of our visit several trees were spangled over with blossoms. Trees have each their own physiognomy. There, towering over all, stands the great burley baobab, each of whose arms would form the trunk of a large tree, beside groups of graceful palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted against the sky, lend their beauty to the scene. As a hieroglyphic they always mean “ far from home,” for one can never get over their foreign air in a picture or landscape. The silvery mohonono, which in the tropics is in form like the cedar of Lebanon, stands in pleasing contrast with the dark colour of the motsouri, whose cypress form is dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some trees resemble the great spreading oak, others assume the character of our own elms and chestnuts ; but no one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes ; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight. The only want felt is that of mountains in the background. The Falls are bounded on three sides by ridges 300 or 400 feet in height, which are covered with forest, with the red soil appearing among the trees. When about half a mile from (above) the Falls, I left the canoe by which we had come down thus far and embarked on a lighter one, with men well acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing down the centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused by many jutting rocks, brought me to an island (now Livingstone Island) situated in the middle of the river and on the edge of the lip over which the water rolls. In coming hither there was danger of being swept down by the streams which rushed along on each side of the island, but the river was now low, and we sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the water is high. But though we had reached the island, and were within a few yards of the spot, I believe that no one could perceive 221 225 The Victoria Falls: Spray Cloud. H The Victoria Falls : (1) “ Leaping Waters." (2) The Eastern Cataract. 226 THE VICTORIA FALLS where the vast body of water went; it seemed to lose itself in the earth, the opposite lip of the fissure into which it disappeared being only 80 feet distant. At least I did not comprehend it until creeping with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambesi, and saw that a stream of a thou- sand yards broad leaped down a hundred feet, and then became suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards. The entire Falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic rock from the right to the left bank of the Zambesi, and then prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or forty miles of hills. On looking down into the fissure on the right of the island, one sees nothing but a dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the spot, had two bright rainbows in it. (The sun was on the meridian, and the declination about equal to the latitude of the place.) From this cloud rushed up a great jet of vapour exactly like steam, and it mounted 200 or 300 feet high ; there condensing, it changed its line to that of dark smoke, and came back in a constant shower, which soon wetted us to the skin. This shower falls chiefly on the opposite side (south) of the fissure, and a few yards back from the lip there stands a straight hedge of evergreen trees whose leaves are always wet. The walls of the gigantic crack (into which the river falls) are perpendicular, and composed of one homogeneous mass of rock. The edge of that side over which the water falls is worn off, and has a serrated appearance. Upon the whole it is nearly in the state in which it was left at the period of its formation. The rock is dark brown in colour, except al- most ten feet from the bottom, which is discoloured by the annual rise of the water. On the left side of the island we have a good view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns of vapour to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gives the idea of snow. As it broke into “ pieces ” of water, all rushing on in the same direction, each gave off several rays of foam, exactly as bits of steel when burnt in oxygen gas give off rays of sparks. The five columns of vapour ascending from this strange abyss are evidently formed by the compression suffered by the force of the water's own fall into an unyielding wedge- shaped space. If we take the want of much wear on the lip of hard basaltic 227 H 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA are rock as of any value, the period when this rock was riven is not geologically very remote.. I saw the Falls at low water and the columns of vapour when five or six miles distant, and the sound is quite distinct somewhat beyond Kalai. The earliest artists to depict the Victoria Falls seem to have been the Bushmen, who have left at least six paintings of them in their rock caves and shelters in Southern Rhodesia. These representations in oxides of red and yellow ochres, and are probably a thousand years old, possibly more. They show the line of the falls or some section of it, and one portrays the columns of white vapour above the Falls uniting in a cloud. The first modern painter was Thomas Baines, F.R.G.S., the well-known African explorer and re- discoverer of the gold areas of Rhodesia, in about 1862. Mr. Baines showed his pictures to Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort. Some of these paintings are in the Port Elizabeth Library and others in the Cape Town Library, while some are housed in Durban. The Victoria Falls are nearly two-and-a-half times as high as the Niagara Falls, and approximately twice as wide when measured along the lip, the measurements of the two being as follow : Height of the Victoria Falls 420 feet. Height of Niagara Falls 158 feet. Width of Victoria Falls 1 mile (approx.) Niagara Some idea of the vastness of the Victoria Falls may be gained from the fact that their height is slightly greater than the height of the cross surmounting the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, while their width is about equal to the distance from the British Museum to Marble Arch. The noise of the falling water is deafening any. where in the vicinity ; but in flood time it is said it can be heard at a distance of ten miles. From the chasm rise immense and dense clouds of spray, which hang over the Falls as a pall. In the flood season this spray can be seen a distance of 70 miles away. . mile 228 THE VICTORIA FALLS How and When to See the Falls. The best months for visiting the Falls are undoubtedly July and August, when, being the winter season, the days are somewhat cooler than at other times, and the night air is bracing. The Falls, however, change their appearances and moods according to season, and each season possesses a special attractiveness. From January to May the river is in flood; it is lowest from October to December. The greatest volume of water is falling in April, and the water level in the gorge is then some 50 feet higher than in November ; but at this season the spray is densest and consequently the beauties of the cataracts are apt to be hidden from view. On the other hand, when the spray clouds are comparatively light, say in November, the volume of falling water is not nearly so great as in the flood season, with the result that the waters appear to hug the cliffs in their descent, instead of leaping boldly forward and plunging into the abyss clear of the precipice, as at flood times, At any season, however, they constitute one of the won- ders of the world. Light effects are always of the most gorgeous description. Rainbows are to be seen along the chasm and over it at any hour of daylight, and lunar rainbows can be observed at full moon, when the general view is both charming and romantic. Sunrise effects are also magnificent ; these are seen to fullest advan- tage when the spectator is out and about some time before the sun actually shows itself. The road to the Falls leaves the hotel at its left front and passes over a small rustic bridge where are two paths, one to the right, leading to the railway bridge, the Palm Grove, and Eastern Cataract, the other to the left, leading to Leaping Waters or Devil's Cataract, and also to the launches and canoes which ply on the upper reaches of the river. It is best first to follow the path to the right, going as far as the bridge. Here a path leads across the line to Danger Point, and eventually through the Rain Forest to the western extremity of the Falls. From this path, various approaches to the edge of the chasm facing the cataracts can be made, over two-thirds 229 GUIDE TO RHODESIA of the mile-wide line of the Falls being visible in this way; the path throughout runs parallel to the cataracts, being separated from them only by the chasm. On this route, the Eastern cataract is first seen. Then come the Rainbow Falls, having a frontage of 600 yards. These are separated from the Main Falls by Livingstone Island. The Main Falls are 900 yards wide, but divided by a rock into two sections—of 573 yards and 325 yards respectively. Next comes Cataract or Boaruka Island, 200 yards wide, and finally Leaping Waters or Devil's Cataract, 40 yards wide. At the extreme ends of the chasm the water falls some 260 feet; the Main and Rainbow Falls have a drop of 320 feet to high-water level, and of about 400 feet to low-water level. Danger Point and Boiling Pot.—The Shongwe or Boiling Pot is the point where the waters of the Eastern and Western cataracts meet on their mad rush from the Chasm ; from the Boiling Pot they emerge a surging torrent into the Gorge. The Boiling Pot is somewhat circular in shape and can be entered by way of the Palm Grove. Only in the dry season, however, can the descent be made to the water's edge. A fine view of these vexed torrents is obtained from Danger Point on the left, and another from the railway bridge. From Danger Point the best view is also obtained of the Eastern cataract opposite. This cataract falls into a small lake or cup formed of loose boulders piled to a height of 40 feet above the stream in the Chasm. In its descent much of the water leaps right out into the abyss, but the under ” portion encounters several slightly pro- jecting rocks with the result that the cataract takes on a spreading or fan-like form. From Danger Point one can continue either along the face of the Falls or deviate by way of the bridge to the eastern bank of the river ; the latter tour can be taken later should the path west be followed first. The Railway Bridge is the highest in the world. It spans the first arm of the Gorge at 200 yards below the Boiling Pot, is in one arched span of 500 feet, is 650 feet long, and 400 feet above low-water level. Trains cross 66 230 M. MES GALLS TON *** 134454 $s (1) Victoria Falls : The Main Falls. (2) Zambesi River : Landing Stage just above the Falls. 231 (1) Victoria Falls from Livingstone Island. (2) Livingstone's Tree (note part of the Explorer's initials), Livingstone Island. 232 THE VICTORIA FALLS at a speed of five miles an hour, and in flood time the spray from the Falls frequently “ washes” the carriage windows. It was Mr. Rhodes's desire that the bridge should be erected at a point which would permit of such a thing happening. Foot passengers using the bridge are charged ls. return. On the left of the bridge iron ladders have been fixed to the side of the Gorge, and by these a descent into the Gorge may be made. Palm Grove.-To reach the Palm Grove it is necessary to cross the bridge, and traverse a path branching off to the left. A further path on the left leads steeply down a kloof extending from the country level down to the edge of the river. A splendid view of the bridge above is obtained here. The Grove itself is a veritable riot of tropical growth, and for this reason also, as well as for the views it opens out, should be visited. Eastern Cataract.--A path northwards from the entrance to the Palm Grove leads to the cataract at the eastern extremity of the Chasm. This cataract, as already indicated, is best seen from the brink of the Chasm opposite. It is possible to proceed further along this bank towards a point facing Danger Point. Here is what is known as Knife Edge, which only the most adventurous spirits attempt to cross. Livingstone Island is reached by canoe from the eastern bank. A path leads from the eastern extremity of the Chasm to the landing stage some 300 yards away. This is the island from which Livingstone obtained his first view of the Falls and where he wrote the description that has already been quoted. Some of the grandest views of the Chasm and of the Rainbow and Main Falls are to be obtained from this island which, however, is inaccessible in flood times. It is covered with immense trees of dense foliage, and in November, after the first rains have fallen, the small plant life is exceedingly gorgeous. Flowering orchids are to be seen on some of the trees. At the very edge of the precipice is the rock whereon Livingstone lay prone to peer into the abyss below. The tree on which he carved his initials 233 GUIDE TO RHODESIA is still standing, though the carying is now exceedingly faint. Of his action Livingstone wrote : This is the only instance in which I indulged in this piece of vanity." The rainbows to be seen from it are the chief feature of a visit to the island ; they are practically permanent and double rainbows. Rainbow Falls,--These, undoubtedly the prettiest of all the cataracts, are best seen from Danger Point, They are so known because of the number of brilliant rainbows showing on the spray clouds as these rise from the level below. So perfect are they that it is possible to see the rainbow circle actually complete, save for a very small portion. In continuing on the path from Danger Point, and branching off on the numerous side-walks to the brink of the Chasm, great care against accident should be. taken, the grass and rocks here being very slippery. The Chasm runs east and west and extends to the width of the Zambesi. The distance across the top varies from 160 feet to 250 feet, being narrower at the bottom ; and the depth is about 400 feet ; it is quite impossible to descend into the Chasm except at Knife Edge, and even there the venture is made only by the most hardy. The Rain Forest is a forest of dense thickets inter- spersed with gigantic trees on which the spray is almost perpetually falling in more or less heavy showers. In the forest, which is exactly opposite Livingstone Island, troops of baboons are frequently to be seen. Main Falls.-Adjoining Livingstone Island on the West are the Main Falls, at once the sublimest, wildest, and most awe-inspiring of all the cataracts of the Victoria Falls. At any time of the year, and even in the driest of seasons, they form a magnificent feature. The volume of water falling here is enormous, The roar is consequently tremendous, while the spray is extremely dense; indeed, a complete view of the Main Falls is only rarely obtained in the dry season, so dense is the spray. Cataract Island and Leaping Waters.--Cataract Island is the western boundary of the Main Falls. It has several wide channels crossing it, the waters of which, 234 The Victoria Falls : Bridge and Cañon from the hotel. 235 The Victoria Falls : (1) Rain Forest. (2) Palm Kloof. 236 GUIDE TO RHODESIA noon. Australia, and Barry, of England, rowed their memorable race in 1910 for the Sculling Championship of the World ; and over which regattas are frequently held. This excursion opens up very beautiful scenery. Numerous palm-studded islands are passed, all intersected by lanes" made by hippo. in going to or from the water. Amongst the islands are: Princess Christian, Syatshi- kola, Kalai, and Loando or Long Island. Hippo. infest the river in the vicinity of the Falls, though in the dry season they appear to retire to beyond some rapids which occur above Kandahar, and which are then so much exposed rock. Latterly hippo. have been kept down in number by shooting, in order to make navigation less dangerous. Even now they are numerous ; they are usually seen early in the morning and late in the after- Excursions by canoe from the landing stage on the west bank can also be made to Cataract Island at certain times of the year; and from the east bank to Livingstone Island. Another pleasant outing is to Dale's Kopje for an extremely fine panorama of the Zambesi River em- bracing a stretch of ten miles—from just below the Falls to beyond Kandahar Island above them. Living- stone township to the north-west can also be seen. The hill is on the extreme northern edge of a long ridge and is reached by an old road leading to Sekula's Drift, past the hotel gardens and the “ big tree.” The country towards the north-west is the haunt of lions. On the way to Dale's Kopje is the Big Tree, a baobab or cream-of-tartar tree, measuring 88 feet 6 inches in circumference at the base. Though undoubtedly a large specimen it is by no means the largest in Rhodesia, baobab trees being known with a circumference of 105 feet. They grow to a great age. Standing close to the baobab is a muveba, or 66 German Sausage tree, which generally has scores of huge sausage-shaped fruit suspended from its branches. The fruit, which, by the way, the natives never eat, is bright grey in colour, and contains a sort of bean. 238 THE VICTORIA FALLS The management of the Victoria Falls Hotel assists in every way guests who desire to undertake any excur- sions in the neighbourhood. Guides are provided free, and rickshaws, canoes, launches, or horses arranged for. Public Notices. The fol- lowing no- tices are pro- minently ex- h i bited within the “Falls" area : The public are requested to assist in maintaining the natural beauties sur- rounding the Falls. Uprooting of plants, fi ring the grass, cutting initials, or otherwise damaging the trees, are strictly pro- At the Victoria Falls : The Big Tree." h i bited. Picnic parties should avoid leaving papers, etc., behind. Shooting within five miles of the Falls is illegal. A further notice, being of the prohibitions of the Forest and Herbage Preservation Act of 1859 (a Cape Colony Act applying to Rhodesia), states: It is illegal to damage or remove trees, shrubs, etc., within an area of 40 miles from above and below the Victoria Falls, and 2 miles from any point along the river bank as defined by Government notice, No. 161 of 1907. 239 (1) and (2) The Zambesi River : Old and New Transport, (a) Natives in "dug outs,” (b) Motor launch. (3) The Umgusa River, near Sawmills. 240 Tour Rhodesia THE VICTORIA FALLS ZIMBABWE RUINS AND THE rank amongst the leading sights of the world. Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Tourist and Steam- ship Agents, are the officially appointed Agents of the Rhodesian Railways, and can arrange through bookings from any of their Branch Offices in Great Britain, India, Australia, New Zealand, the United States, Canada, etc., etc. - Fares, and choice of various routes, can be had on application to any of their numerous offices. South African Offices of Thos. Cook & Son CAPE TOWN, DURBAN and JOHANNESBURG 240 LENNON LIMITED WHOLESALE, RETAIL & DISPENSING CHEMISTS Importers of Assay Apparatus and Mining Chemicals. LARGEST IMPORTERS OF PHO OGRAPHIC GOODS IN SOUTH AFRICA. Fresh Films, Plates, and Printing Papers constantly arriving. Kodaks and Hand aud Stand Cameras in great variety. Developing, Printing, and Enlarging in best possible style and finish. LENNON LIMITED BULAWAYO SALISBURY GA100MA P.O. Box 21. P.O. Box 379. P.O. Box IOI Phone 82 and 15. Phone....... Phone 38 Telegrams : " LENNON.” Branches in all principul towns in South Africa. THE VICTORIA FALLS Livingstone, 7 miles from Victoria Falls by rail, is on the north bank of the Zambesi River. Can also be reached by canoe-ferry and rail trolley from the east bank right into the township, this being the more lavoured route by visitors to the Falls. Hotel guests are at liberty to use the golf links (see p. 245). 241 XXII.-NORTHERN RHODESIA NORTHERN Rhodesia was originally brought into notice by the explorations of Dr. Livingstone. In 1889 it came under the provisions of the African Order-in- Council of that date, and was later administered by the British South Africa Company under the Barotse- land North-Western Rhodesia Order-in-Council of 1899 and the North-Eastern Rhodesia Orders-in-Council of 1900 and 1909. North-Western and North-Eastern Rhodesia have since been amalgamated and are now known as Northern Rhodesia. The head of the territory is the Administrator (Mr. L. A. Wallace, C.M.G.), who resides at Livingstone, and is assisted by a resident departmental staff and by District Commissioner-Magistrates. The most im- portant tribe is the Barotse, to which the other tribes are subject. Lewanika, the chief of the Barotse, sought British protection on his own initiative, and in 1890 granted the British South Africa Company mineral and trading concessions over the whole of his dominions. He subsequently agreed to the civil ad- ministration of the Company. The law of Northern Rhodesia is English ; south of the Zambesi the law is Roman Dutch. Northern Rhodesia is for the greater part a con- tinuation of the high and healthy South African plateau, which extends from the Karoo through Southern Rhodesia to north of the Zambesi. Its altitude makes up for its proximity to the Equator, the highlands being temperate and fertile. The territory is undoubtedly highly mineralised in parts, especially large areas of copper and coal having been located. Copper deposits are being mined at Bwana M’Kubwa by the Bwana M'Kubwa Copper Mining Co., and in the region of the Kafue River by the Kafue Copper Development Co. The deposits are 242 NORTHERN RHODESIA of great richness and enormous extent, and in course of time should result in the establishment of a great mining industry. A large deposit of lead and zinc has been developed at Broken Hill by the Rhodesia Broken Hill Development Co., which is now carrying out tests with a view to the installation of a plant for separating the metals economically. The coal is in the Luana Valley, and is to be opened up. Iron is worked by natives into various articles; and the Bwana M’kubwa Company has pegged an iron deposit near the northern border. FARMING PROSPECTS. As a farming and ranching country the North-Western Province has a great future before it. In the compara- tively short time since the country has been opened up by means of the railway some 140 farms have been taken up, and the rate of settlement has latterly become accelerated. The altitude of the farming country varies from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, the rainfall averaging from 25 to 30 inches according to locality. The chief product at present is maize, for which there is a decidedly good local market in the Congo and also in Southern Rhodesia. Prices vary between 15s. and £1 15s. per bag ; the cost of growing is estimated roughly at 5s. per bag, thus giving a handsome profit. Other products, such as sorghum, wheat, manna, beans, pumpkins, and oil-seeds are also being grown, and they command a good market with excellent prices. Some farmers have made successful experiments with lucerne and other fodder plants. Cotton has been grown for the last three years, but this product is still in its experimental stage; experiments on a large scale are being carried out at Mazabuka Estate, near the Kafue River. If these prove successful, as there is reason to believe they will, the country has a great future before it as a producer of cotton. Large areas in the Kafue Valley are suitable for sugar cane, and experi- ments are being carried on with this product. For the growing of fibre-yielding plants the country is excel- 243 GUIDE TO RHODESIA lently well suited, but success in this direction depends on the freight to the coast and thence to the Home markets. Citrus fruits do well in various districts, and farmers are going in largely for their cultivation. Tobacco has also been grown successfully, and large areas are now being planted with both the Virginian and Turkish varieties. A Government experiment garden has been estab- lished at Chilanga Station, in the neighbourhood of the Kafue River, to experiment with various economical products. The best farming areas are situated along and in the vicinity of the railway line between Livingstone and Mwomboshi. Further north, in the Ndola and Kasempa districts, there are very large areas, well-watered and with rich soil, but unfortunately they are infested with tsetse fly. The pest will, no doubt, retreat as settle- ment advances ; and the introduction of steam or motor- driven agricultural implements will make farmers independent of oxen for draught purposes. Two oil- motor tractors for ploughing have already been intro- duced, and the utilisation of a steam ploughing plant is under consideration. Cattle ranching has achieved considerable success at Kalomo and in different parts of the Kafue Valley. A good market exists in the Congo for slaughter animals. Dairy farming is proving a paying enterprise, as are also poultry farming and sheep raising. Bulls for the purpose of improving local herds have been imported, with a fair measure of success ; when properly looked after and cared for imported bulls do well. The country is free from cattle disease. Breeding and other cattle are purchased from natives in the Barotse Valley. The value of unbroken oxen varies from £3 to £5, trained oxen from £6 '10s. to £8, cows from £6 10s. to £7 10s., and half-bred stock from £20 to £35. Horses and mules do well in most parts. The supply of labour is ample. Wages for ordinary labour vary from 7s. 6d. to 15s. per month; drivers are paid from £2 to £4 per month. 244 NORTHERN RHODESIA extent of the country to the north. There are a number of general stores carrying big stocks, and all kinds of shooting equipment is obtainable. Is the headquarters of the police of the country—the Northern Rhodesia Police-which is composed of natives under White officers and is a remarkably well-drilled body ; a band has been trained and plays the latest musical pieces with surprising ability. There is a church, S. Andrew, built by the Universities Mission to Central Africa, which is used as a Cathedral Church for the diocese of Northern Rhodesia, the present Bishop of which is the The Livingstone Club. Rt. Rev. A. J. W. May. The Mission has a number of centres of work amongst the natives. The Roman Catholic Church and the Wesleyan Church have also opened up mission work in the territory, and the Paris Missionary Society has long been established near Livingstone. There are the following public and other institutes, etc., in the township : Post and tele- graph office; clubs : United Services, and Living- stone ; hotels : North Western 15s. per day, Living- stone 12s. 6d. per day ; branch of the Standard Bank ; newspaper : Livingstone Mail (weekly); sports clubs, 247 Kafue River and Railway Bridge, Northern Rhodesia. Bridge 13 snane of 100 r. 248 NORTHERN RHODESIA having golf course (12 holes), lawn tennis courts, cricket ground. There is a Regatta Club, and regattas are occasionally held on a magnificent reach of the Zambesi three miles away ; and boating is a favourite pastime at all seasons. A Musical Society, seconded by occasional visits from touring theatrical co companies, provides a certain amount of entertainment, and there are frequent Government House and other parties and functions. After leaving Livingstone, the railway climbs through some very pretty country to the higher plateau lands, which average about 4,000 feet in altitude. To Kalomo it is practically all bush country, but fine open veld beyond, as far as Lusaakas. About midway between Kalomo and Lusaakas, the line crosses the Kafue River, the bridge, an unusually fine one, being 1,300 feet long and the longest in Africa. There is a small settlement at Kafue Station, with hotel and stores. Below the bridge the Kafue descends through a gorge and ultimately empties itself into the Zambesi. Above the bridge the river is navigable by small craft for some 200 miles. Leaving Kafue, the line winds through hilly country of much beauty until it emerges on the higher and flatter lands of Lusaakas, the highest point on the rail- way in the territory. Lusaakas is the business base for the sub-district of Chilanga. There is a small settlement here, with hotel and stores. From Lusaakas to Broken Hill the country is rather thickly covered with timber. Broken Hill (4,000 feet), 2,014 miles from Cape Town, 1,330 from Beira, is the headquarters of the District Commissioner of Loangwa, comprising the sub-districts of Mwomboshi, Mkushi, Ndola, Feira, and Chilanga. There are an hotel and several stores. Rainfall, 27 inches. The Broken Hill mines are close by, the railway passing through the property. In one of the kopjes of the Broken Hill mines a re- markable Bone Cave was discovered in the course of some excavations. The bones are of many varieties 249 GUIDE TO RHODESIA of birds and animals, and they are embedded in the rock or clay, but they are so fragile that it is difficult to obtain unbroken specimens. Quantities have been sent away for identification, but as this involves much time and expert investigation, not a great deal of light has been thrown on the subject from this source as yet. It has been proved, however, that some of the bones belong to extinct animals, amongst them being an extinct variety of rhinoceros called (?) Discunas Whitii, after Mr. Franklin White, who spent much time and trouble in investigating the cave. No human bones of any kind have been found. About 100 feet away from the Cave a cutting exposed a further deposit of bones. No satisfactory theory explaining this extraordinary accumulation is so far forthcoming. There are some evidences of the occupation of the Cave by primitive people. In places there are indications of fires having been used, and certain pieces of quartz have been pronounced to be stone instruments, such as chisels and knives. An able paper on the subject was read by Mr. Franklin White before the Rhodesia Scientific Association at the time of the discovery. North of Broken Hill the railway belongs to the Rho- desia-Katanga Junction Railway and Mineral Company, Limited, until the Congo Border is reached, a distance of 133 miles away. From the border northwards the line belongs to the Chemin du Fer du Katanga. The first station in Congo territory is Sakania, a few miles over the border, and here the change is made from the British to the Belgian train. From Broken Hill, the country is covered with bush, with open vleis at intervals, the timber, generally speaking, improving to the north. In the vicinity of the Bwana M’kubwa copper mine, situated 2,131 miles from Cape Town, the forest provides excellent mining timber. Except at Bwana M'kubwa, where there are extensive ancient workings 2,000 feet long and 120 feet deep, there is no point of interest until Elisabethville, the seat of the Government of the Katanga district of the Belgian. 250 XXIII.-BULAWAYO TO WEST NICHOLSON THE line to West Nicholson from Bulawayo branches off from the main line to Salisbury at Heany Junction ; that portion of the journey is dealt with in the succeeding chapter. · Heany Junction (4,461 feet), 17 miles from Bulawayo, 103 from West Nicholson. Is just within the northern boundary of the Umzingwani district. Umzingwani District is about 30 miles from east to west and 40 miles from north to south. Lies immediately east of Bulawayo District ; is bounded on the west by Bula- wayo and Matobo districts, on the south by Gwanda District, on the east by Insiza District, and on the north by the Bulawayo and Salisbury line. Area, 691 square miles. Principal hills : Malingwani Range with Balla Balla peak at its southern extremity, Dzhazha Mountain, Mawabeni Hills, and the Matopos. Rivers : Umzingwani, Umgusa, and Koce ; the Umzingwani has the following tributaries : Malengenyana, Ngwabalizi, Nceine, Nyarkuni, and Mbilambowe also called Insezi. About half the area is gold formation. The largest mine is the Bushtick; other mines : Intabanenda, Limes, Riversdale, Alice and Atlas, Nita, Rose and Kalydor. With the exception of a native reserve of 6,000 acres, district is divided into estates and farms, and of the former the Essexvale and Copthall blocks are being subdivided into smaller farms. Population (approx.) : Whites 250, natives 8,000. The London Missionary Society have six native churches and schools in the district. The Church of Christ has a mis- sion on Douglasvale Farm six miles south-east of Bulawayo. From Heany Junction the line runs just inside the western boundary of a granite area for 10 miles. It then crosses a metamorphic rock area in which are quartz reefs, banded ironstone, and conglomerates. At three miles north of Balla Balla granite country is again traversed, this area extending almost to Sabiwa. Between Sabiwa and the Terminus the country is made .. 252 BULAWAYO TO WEST NICHOLSON are up of metamorphic rock, quartz reefs, banded ironstone, and conglomerates. For the first few miles the line is in open and almost treeless, undulating country, on which large herds of cattle. On the plateau to the west is Springs, Colonel Napier's farm, on which are the sources of the Umgusa, flowing north. Between is the valley of the Lunga, the Lunga being a tributary, flowing south, of the Enyema (more correctly spelt N'cema). Here the line enters the Limpopo watershed. At four miles the country becomes slightly broken by small isolated kopjes. The Insiza Hills are seen in the far east, the Malingwani Hills in the south-east, and the Matjesumhlope Kopjes in the south-west. Mpochu Hill, 4,628 feet, is about seven miles to the east, while south-east are the white buildings of the Bushtick mine. Bushtick Siding (3,931 feet), 32 miles from Bulawayo The Bushtick gold mine lies on high land, three miles to the east of the line and just south of the granite area. Bushtick Mine.-Owners : Bushtick Mines, Ltd. Manager: D. V. Burnett, M.I.M.M. Employees number 50 Whites, 600 Natives. Plant : 6 Nissen stamps (2,000 lb. each), 20 Californian stamps (1,200 lb. each), one large Krupp tube mill, two Giesecke mills, cyanide ; duty per stamp per day averages 9.7 tons, which is in excess of the average duty per stamp on the Rand. A big scheme of development is in progress, and it is expected that the tonnage crushed will be increased eventually to about 10,000 tons per month. Output 1913, value £57,797. Nyema Tank (3,860 feet). On the Lunga River, which has a perennial flow. The line here descends into the valley of Essexvale. Essexvale Siding (3,827 feet), 37 miles (27} by road) from Bulawayo. Is on the Essexvale Estate. Hotel and store. Essexvale Estate comprises an area of 190,513 acres, and contains two gold belts, on which are several working mines, and other mineral deposits ; the main gold belt originates in the Filabusi district and runs through the estate in a northerly 253 GUIDE TO RHODESIA direction, and the other branches off from it near Balla Balla peak and runs west, terminating in the granites of the Bula- lima district. Four distinct lodes containing tungsten have been located in the Essexvale valley, and two tungsten crystals, believed to be among the largest known, and weighing respectively 235 and 157 1b., have been discovered on the Richardson claims. Lime is abundant. A scheme is on foot to supply Bulawayo with water from the N'cema River. The estate is being subdivided into lots varying from 25 acres to 3,000 acres each, for sale on easy terms. Just south of the Essexvale Siding the rail crosses the Dixile Stream, flowing east, a tributary of the Enyema River. Ophir Mine Spur (3,882 feet), 40 miles from Bulawayo. The mine, near by on the west, is not now being worked. On the north-east of the spur are the Alice, Asia, Warwick Castle, and Red and White Rose mines. Alice and Atlas Mines.Worked on tribute from the owners, Willoughby's Consolidated. Equipment : 10 stamps, cyanide. Output 1913, value £8,011. From two miles south of the Spur the line winds down valleys to the Umzingwani River which rises on the north-east side of the Matopos Range, and at this point assumes considerable size and importance. The line, later, crosses the Bulawayo-Filabusi road. Balla-Balla Peak, a conical hill with a bare granite crown, and a landmark for many miles around, is two miles to the east of the line. Balla-Balla Station (3,602 feet), 52 miles from Bula- wayo. Is on high ground which forms the ridge between the Umzingwani and Mbilambowe watersheds. Hotel, store, and post office. Conveyances can be obtained at the hotel. The station serves Filabusi, to which there is a coach service, and from it Belingwe Camp can be reached. The local industries are mainly trading, farming, and transport riding. Filabusi District, which is in the Bulawayo Magisterial district, is roughly 1,600 square miles in extent. White population, exclusive of police, about 70. There are several 254 BULAWAYO TO WEST NICHOLSON occupied farms in the area, and the following mines are at work : Fred, Moota, Blue Reef, and Hanover. Filabusi itself is situated some 20 miles E.S.E. of Balla Balla, and consists of Police Camp, Native Commissioner's Camp, and a store, with a post office in the Police Camp, having telephonic communication with Bulawayo. By the old coach road to Belingwe is 40 miles, to Fort Rixon is also 40 miles, and to Hanover Mine is 15 miles, S.S.E. The only stores after leaving Balla Balla are the Filabusi Marvel Store at the Hanover Mine, one at the Fred Mine, and Botton's, which is some three miles N.N.E. of Filabusi Camp. The Fred Mine is about three miles E.N.E. of the Police Camp. Roads are moderately good. District is well watered, having the following big rivers :-Umzingwani, Insiza, Congesi, and Nuanetsi, and many streams. Game is fairly plentiful, more particularly koodoo, sable, and tsessibe. Fred Mine.-Owners : Transvaal and Rhodesia Estates, Ltd. Plant : 10 stamps, 2 grinding pans, cyanide. Output 1913, value £32,950. Belingwe (Native) District is 110 miles south-east of Bula- wayo ; bounded on the north by Selukwe District, on the south by Tuli, Gwanda, and Chibi districts, on the east by Chibi District, and on the west by Gwanda and Insiza dis- tricts. Is approximately 85 miles long and 50 broad. Forma- tion is mostly granitic, and generally speaking district is mountainous. Principal ranges : Belingwe, Mweza, Dora ; principal peaks : Belingwe, Bukwa, Wedza Kop. Is well watered and wooded. Principal rivers : Lundi, Sabi, Ngezi, Nitshingwe, Dobi, Nuanetsi, Umzingwani, and Babye, all of which run permanently in normal seasons. Game and wild animals are plentiful, small game especially so. Population : Whites 120, natives 38,000. On the Native Reserve the Church of Christ and the Swedish Mission (Rev. W. Skold) have both opened up mission stations. Mining is the principal industry. Producing mines : Agin- court, “C," Suffolk, Clifton, Wanderers' Rest, and Belmont; development operations are in progress on several other properties, notably the Sabi, while there is a large field for exploration. Very little has as yet been done in the way of agriculture, but the district is excellently suited for cattle ranching, and ranching operations on a large scale are in progress ; the Liebig Co. and the Anglo-French Matabeleland Co. both have large ranches here. There is at present no township in Belingwe District, but there is a central settle- 255 BULAWAYO TO WEST NICHOLSON Crocodile River. The Pioneer Column road into Mashona- land, made in 1890, intersects the southern portion for 35 miles, from south of Fort Tuli to the Umzingwani Drift. The northern portion of the district contains a large area of agricultural land, which has been surveyed into farms. The southern portion is mainly dense bush, with areas suitable for ranching on an extensive scale, and is the haunt of elephants and other big game, all species of buck, and lions, leopards, etc. The Tuli coal fields are situated east of Fort Tuli, but they have not as yet been exploited and developed. Fort Tuli, which is on the Shashi River, was once an important centre, being on the Pioneer Road. It is connected by road with West Nicholson (about 90 miles), and with Pietersburg (178 miles) in the Transvaal ; Rhodes Drift carries the latter road across the Limpopo River. Fort Tuli is the headquarters of the Border Police Guard, and there is also a post and telegraph office and store. The Fort was a base camp of Col. Plumer's force during the Boer War. Population : Whites 469, natives 18,371. Average rain- fall : North 20 inches, south 16 inches. The gold belts of the Gwanda district are covered with ancient workings, and numerous old copper workings are found along the Limpopo River. There are also many old workings on iron outcrops, which were exploited by native people of probably mediæval times. There are at least some thirty ruins, the chief being :-Chum ruins, west of the junction of the Malema and Tuli rivers ; Tuli ruins, on the west bank of Tuli River five miles west of Doppie's Kraal ; Lumeni ruins, two miles east of the main road drift over the Lumeni River ; Golulu ruins, on the west bank of the Malema River, near Shongwisi ; and Ensindi ruins, on Ensindi Hills. Stanmore Siding (3,657 feet), 70 miles from Bulawayo. Is in a district admirably suited for grazing stock ; there are several large herds of cattle in the neigh- bourhood, principally on the Hollins Block, on the west. The bush is mopani and wistaria, and a considerable amount of charcoal is burnt hereabouts for the mines. The Ensindi Hills, a romantic granite range, lie near to the west side of the line. Sabiwa Siding (3,337 feet), 88 miles from Bulawayo. This siding serves the Sabiwa (5 miles north-west) and Susanna (6 miles west) gold mines. Sabiwa Kop, 257 I GUIDE TO RHODESIA 5 miles away on the west, and Gorongwe Hills lie in the same direction. Sabiwa Mine is being developed on an extensive scale prior to crushing at an early date. It was a substantial producer some years ago, but a change in the characteristics of the ore at depth, from free milling to refractory, necessitated the suspension of operations. The plant is now to be reorganised. Susanna Mine.-Owners : Susanna Mines, Ltd. Consists of 90 claims. Plant : 8 stamps, cyanide, slimes. Output 1913, value £22,855. Gwanda Station (3,235 feet), 91 miles from Bulawayo. Headquarters of the Magistrate and Civil Commissioner, Police, Native Commissioner, and District Surgeon of the Gwanda-Tuli district. Local authority : Village Management Board. Hotel, golf links, rifle company, lawn tennis club, hospital. A brewery and mineral water factory is established in the township. Station serves the Imani, Kameel, and other mines. On the south side of the township is Spitz. Kop, a tall, conical hill, and on the west is the Umtchabesi River. Soon after leaving Gwanda, the line comes within sight of the Jahaunda Hills, which extend on the west from north of Antenior Halt to Colleen Bawn. Kameel Mine.Owners : New Rhodesia Mines, Ltd., and A. M. Rhodes. Equipment : 5 stamps. Output 1913, value £10,666. Antenior Halt (3,144 feet), 97 miles from Bulawayo. Serves the Antenior, Singali, Meg, and other mines, the Antenior, which is near the Halt on the east, having extensive ancient workings. From Antenior, the line turns towards the east, the Mjeni river running parallel on the west as far as Geelong. Eagle Vulture Siding (3,007 feet), 101 miles from Bulawayo. Serves various mining properties in the vicinity. Near the Eagle Vulture Mine are the remains of a prehistoric stone building. Colleen Bawn Spur (3,093 feet), 108 miles from Bula- wayo. Is at the foot of Colleen Bawn Kop, and serves a number of mines in the neighbourhood. 258 BULAWAYO TO WEST NICHOLSON Farvic Mine.- Ten claims, situated at Pendangwe Kopje, about two miles south-east of the siding. Is owned and worked by H. S. Henderson, V.C. Past outputs have averaged over 62s. per ton. This property has given the highest grade ore of any mine in Rhodesia—viz., 2,370 oz. of gold from 819 tons of ore, or £13 9s. 7d. per ton. Equip- ment : 5-stamp mill, tube mill (small), and cyanide plant. Output : 1913, value £11,268. Geelong Siding (3,027 feet), 114 miles from Bulawayo. Jessie Siding (2,912 feet), 116 miles from Bulawayo. West Nicholson Terminus (2,788 feet), 120 miles from Bulawayo, is on the west bank of the Umzingwani River, and at the foot of Mount Olympus, at a point where the Insiza, Belingwe, and Gwanda-Tuli districts meet. Police camp and post office. There are only a few farmers in this district, which is better suited to ranching than agriculture. On the Umz ngwani River is a large mine dam. Towards the south-east are the bold and high hills of the M'pateni, with the Belingwe Ranges beyond them. The terminus serves the Belingwe and Tuli districts. Mining operations were formerly carried on in the district by the East Gwanda group of mines—the Eagle Vulture, Jessie, Valley, and West Nicholson Mines, which are situated near the sidings named above, the Valley Mine being near Geelong Siding. The ores contained gold and copper. The production from first to last amounted in value to £903,639 (gold £878,169, copper £22,866, silver £2,604). Operations ceased a few years ago. Beyond the Terminus, the country changes in the course of forty miles from picturesque granite kopjes to a comparatively flat and monotonous expanse of open woods, alternating with grassy flats and patches of denser timber. This is the Tuli district proper. It was in this part of the country that Liebig's decided to locate their ranching areas, on taking up interests in Rhodesia. Liebig's Extract of Meat Company own 1,250,000 acres in all, the ranches extending over parts of the Tuli and adjoining districts. The land was acquired in 1910. Within 259 I 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA two years over 600,000 acres were in active occupation, Homesteads and out-stations have been built, roads and telephone lines constructed, and some 12,000 head of cattle (including stock from overseas and the Union of South Africa as well as local animals) placed on the land. Pedigree bulls were imported from England, Experiments with sheep, pigs and donkeys have also been taken in hand. Grading up of the slow-maturing and badly shaped native cattle is being actively carried out, and carefully kept records of the various crosses effected will in time determine the class of animal best suited to prevailing conditions. Periodical dipping is resorted to. Where necessary underground supplies of water are tapped and pumped up for drinking purposes. The cattle are thriving remarkably well. The local headquarters of the company are at Mazunga, which is about midway between West Nicholson and Messina in the Transvaal. Already a small centre of population has formed here. Eventually, no doubt, the erection of a factory for the manufacture of meat products will come under consideration. Such a factory, though it will have the Liebig ranches as a reserve on which to draw, will look to other cattle breeders also for supplies, thus furnishing that sine qua non to a success- ful cattle-breeding industry, a convenient market for surplus production. The Tuli district is plentifully stocked with game. Roan, sable, tsessibe, and koodoo are exceptionally numerous, and large herds of zebra are frequently encountered. Eland are fairly plentiful, and water- buck, impala, and bushbuck are commonly met with, while there are a number of giraffe. Elephants are found in the west of the district, but are strictly pre- served ; and in the east at least one herd of buffalo has been seen. The carnivora species is well represented. When it is added that game birds of all kinds are found everywhere, and that all the rivers swarm with croco- dile and fish—the tiger fish, noted for its fighting quali- ties, is found in the Limpopo River—it will be seen that in this district the sportsman has no lack of variety of game, etc., on which to try his skill. 260 XXIV. BULAWAYO TO GWELO Suburbs Halt (4,407 feet), 1 mile from Bulawayo. Is for the convenience of residents in the Bulawayo suburbs. The line afterwards closely follows the old Bulawayo-Salisbury coach road. The country rock here is metamorphic, of the banded ironstone series, which extends to within two miles of Thabas Induna. Old Nic Siding (4,439 feet), 6 miles from Bulawayo. Is near the Old Nic gold mine, which lies on the right. Old Nic Mine.-Owned by the Charterland and General Exploration and Finance Co., Ltd., comprises 14 blocks of claims, and is about one mile to the south of the Siding. Reduction plant : 15 stamps and 5 grinding pans, having a capacity of 2,000 tons per month; sands. The mine is opened up to the ninth level. Ore reserves, about 50,000 tons, average value 12.6 dwt. per ton. Output 1913, value £44,551. Marvel Spur (4,321 feet), 8 miles from Bulawayo. Is on the Umgusa River, which the line crosses at this point. The Umgusa in its lower course becomes an important river, traversing almost one hundred miles through a fertile belt of country, when it joins the Gwaai River. At 10 miles the line ascends to high open ground, and on the west is Thabas Induna (4,850 feet), a long flat-topped hill, which is a prominent landmark for many miles around. On top is a small ruin of a fort built of sandstone slabs, most probably constructed by natives two or three centuries ago. The name means hill of the chiefs” and is popularly thought to have had its origin in the fact that on this hill the Matabele chief had certain of his indunas executed for disobeying his orders. But the name actually originated much earlier. M'Zilikazi and his indunas ascended this hill, on their arrival from Zululand in 1838, and it was from its sum- mit that the king apportioned the land to the various 66 The 261 GUIDE TO RHODESIA sections of his tribe. The hill, since this event, has been known to the Matabele as The hill of the chiefs." A few miles to the north-west are the Nxela (Inshela) Hills (4,800 feet). At this point the railway leaves the Bulawayo district, and enters the Umzingwani district (see p. 252). Heang Junction (4,461 feet), 17 miles from Bulawayo. Is the junction of the Gwanda or West Nicholson line (see p. 252). From Heany Junction the line keeps on the ridge dividing the Zambesi watershed from that of the Lim- popo, and four miles beyond enters granite country, which extends to within a few miles of Insiza Station. The country falls away towards the north-west along the broad Umgusa Valley, the view here including the isolated hill, Umfazi-miti, 18 miles distant, so named after an occurrence in the seventies, it being the place where the unfaithful wives of the men of one of Loben- gula's regiments were executed. The line now impinges on Bubi District, the southern boundary of which ex- tends along the railway as far as Shangani Siding. Bubi District has an area of 230 miles from east to west along its northern boundary and about 40 miles along its southern boundary, and of 240 miles from north to south between extreme points. Is bounded on the north by Sebungwe District, on the east by Gwelo District, on the west by Wankie and Nyamandhlovu districts, and on the south by Nyamandhlovu, Bulawayo and Insiza districts. Principal rivers : Shangani, Gwaai, Gwampa, Bubi, Bembesi, all ultimately contributing their waters to the Zambesi. District is served by the railway sidings, Bembesi, Lochard, Insiza, and Shangani. Population : Whites 600, native 20,000. In this district, at Inyati, is the oldest mission station in the country: it belongs to the London Missionary Society. Farms in Bubi vary in value from £450 to £1,200, according to situation. Water is plentiful, being obtained nearly everywhere by sinking from 30 to 60 feet. The southern portion has been surveyed into farms. The headquarters of the Magistrate and Native Com- missioner, the Mines Office, and the Police Camp for this district are in Inyati, 25 miles north of the railway. Post .. 262 BULAWAYO TO GWELO and telegraph offices. Hotel 2} miles from official head- quarters. Motor-car and coach services are run twice a week between Bulawayo and Inyati ; Inyati can also be reached from the Bembesi, Lochard, and Insiza sidings. The district contains a number of gold mining properties, among them the Lonely, Queen's, Queen's West, Elumba, Polar Star, Pompey, Imbusine, Pencaitland, Grangebrook, Eagle A, Premier. Game of all sorts is plentiful. About 110 miles north-west of Inyati is the spot where Major Alan Wilson and his party fought and fell in the famous Shangani fight with the Matabele in 1893. The place, which is in the centre of a dense forest, is marked by an obelisk with a suitably engraved brass tablet. There are several ruins in the district. The Morven Ruins are a quarter of a mile west of the Morven mine, and here the walls remaining are 6 ft. and 7 ft. wide, and from 5 ft. to 6 ft. high. In this locality are also extensive old workings. Lower Shangani Ruins are a few miles to the west of where Major Alan Wilson's party made their last stand. Bushman paintings are reported to exist in the southern portion, mainly in the Inyati sub-district and north of the Bubi River. Jumpers Mine.--Situated near the Queen's Mine. Owner : J. P. McCay Equipment : 5 stamps, sands. Output 1913, value £8,510. Lonely Mine.—Property consists of 234 claims. Ore reserves 174,667 tons, value, 21 dwt. per ton. Plant : 20 stamps, 3 tube mills, slimes. Output, 1913 : value, £219,134. Owners : Lonely Reef Gold Mining Co., Ltd.; manager : S. H. Boright. Queen's.-Owners: Matabele Queen's Co., Ltd.; manager: J. N. Normand. Plant : 10 stamps, 2 grinding pans, cyanide, slimes. Output, 1913 : value, £47,292. Bembesi Station (4,482 feet), 30 miles from Bulawayo. An important distributing and collecting centre serving several mines and farms. To the north, the land falls away towards the valley of the Bembesi River; the river flows north-west for about 110 miles, when it joins the Gwaai. At seven miles beyond the station the line proceeds along the northern boundary of Insiza District to its north-eastern limit on the Shangani River. On the 263 GUIDE TO RHODESIA a north are areas of diamondiferous soil, which are being prospected, and on which diamonds have been found, notably in the Colossus and Wessels mines, where yellow and blue ground have been exposed in numerous shafts. Insiza District comprises 4,000 square miles, of which 150 square miles are occupied by native reserves. Is bounded on the south-west by Umzingwani District, on the south-east by Belingwe District, on the east and north-east by Gwelo District, on the north-west by Bubi District. Railway runs along the northern boundary and serves this part of the district at Lochard, Insiza, and Shangani sidings. West Nicholson station on the West Nicholson branch line serves the extreme southern part. The high land in the north forms a section of the ridge dividing the Zambesi and Limpopo watersheds. Consequently, the district has decided fall in elevation from north to south-south-east- from 5,000 ft. to 2,700 ft. Principal hills : Doro Range in the south-east, Ghoko and Wedza ranges in the north-east, Makaka Hills near Fort Rixon, and the Filabusi and Shambo Hills in the sub-district of Filabusi ; and also Shanganwi Hill (4,839 ft.), Standansi (4,152 ft.) and M’hlope (4,598 ft.). Principal rivers : Insiza, Nuaanetsi, Mchingwe, Kingesi, Manzinyama, and their tributaries, all flowing north. The district is exceedingly well watered. Average rainfall, about 25 in. Big game is met with, but is preserved by the farmers ; it includes eland, koodoo, roan, sable, tsessibe, etc. Small buck are very numerous and the bird-shooting is good and varied. Several gold mining properties are being worked. Principal mines : Claremont, Nelly, Bangali (9 miles south of Fort Rixon), and New Eclipse, in the north. Indications of tin have been found. Practically the whole district has been surveyed and marked off into farms, many now being occupied. Mixed farming is mainly carried on, but there are several large herds of cattle, the De Beers ranch of twenty-seven farms having the largest herds. The headquarters of the Insiza and Southern Insiza Farmers' Associations are respectively at Insiza Hotel and Peggy Hotel. Population : Whites, 493 ; natives, 16,481. The headquarters for the Insiza district of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, and Police are at Fort Rixon, which is 17 miles south of Insiza Station, and on the road there- from to Belingwe. Fort Rixon, which was a fortified station 264 BULAW AYO TO GWELO in the '96 Rebellion, is about 52 miles by road from Bulawayo, and about the same distance by road from Gwelo. Claremont Mine-Owners : Claremont Mines, Ltd. Tri- buted by B. L. Whyte. Plant : 10 stamps. Output 1913 : value, £8,566. Nelly.—Tributed by F. D. Roscoe. Plant: 3 Huntingdon mills, cyanide. Output, 1913: value, £23,148. Lochard Siding (4,477 feet), 38 miles from Bulawayo. Is another centre serving the Bembesi district, and is on the estate (30,723 acres) belonging to the Lochard Estates (Rhodesia) Syndicate, Limited, a subsidiary of Mashona- land Agency, Limited, which is carrying on general farming operations, tobacco planting particularly. The Government Experiment Farm is adjacent to the siding. Insiza Station (4,640 feet), 45 miles from Bulawayo. Is the station for Fort Rixon, Dhlo-Dhlo ruins, Filabusi, and Belingwe. The rock of this locality is metamorphic, the formation extending eastwards as far as Shangani River. Dhlo-Dhlo Ruins are eighteen miles south of Insiza Station, occupy a commanding position (4,500 ft. above sea-level) on a granite plateau, and cover over three acres of ground, though there are remains of walls beyond this area. There have been several reconstructions and additions by subsequent occupants. The ornamentation of the walls is elaborate, but not so well worked as is that of Zimbabwe Temple, for Dhlo-Dhlo, as are other ruins in Matabeleland, is considerably later than Zim. babwe. The main ruin rises in three high terraced tiers which are faced with check and herring-bone patterns. Length of cnclosed area 350 ft., width 250 ft. There is a raised platform with cemented floor, about 50 ft. in diameter, on the western side of the interior, being on the summit of the highest terrace, and about 20 ft. in height; this platform is not considered to be part of the original structure, the floor of the original occupiers being 15 ft. underneath, to which a shaft has been sunk. Gold bangles and gold beads have been found on the original floor. The Dhlo-Dhlo ruins are fully described in Hall & Neal's “ Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia.” 265 GUIDE TO RHODESIA The relics of a Jesuit missionary of mediæval times have been found on a low granite elevation near the main ruin. These comprise part of a bronze bowl, bronze oil lamps, portion of bronze censer, a bell, priest's private seal, three feet of gold chain, part of priest's regalia with mass of molten silver attached, probably a cross ; sections of silver plate embossed with " vones,” probably Sacrament plate ; and also two cannon, one a bronze breech loader, the other an iron muzzle loader, both having the Portuguese coat of arms. Mediæval records show that on several occasions the natives captured artillery from the Portuguese. From Insiza Station the line descends towards the Shangani Valley. On the north, 18 miles away, is Thabas Imamba Range, where there is an important ruin. Thabas Imamba Ruins are on the highest point south-west of the range. The area covered by the walls is 200 ft. by 80 ft. There have been additions and reconstructions by later occupants, but the workmanship in the original building excellent, and the courses are very true. There is only one accessible approach, this being on the south-east. The original passages and enclosures have been filled in by sub- sequent squatters ; under this filling have been found gold ornaments in considerable number. Shangani Station (4,607 feet), 69 miles from Bulawayo. Is the centre for several farming localities, also for various gold-mining properties : Eagle A., Eagle C., Eagle South, New Eclipse, etc. Eagle A mine.-Owners : Macdonald, Bros. Was one of the first gold-bearing bodies discovered in Matabeleland. Is developed to the fourth level. Reduction plant : 5-stamp mill ; an addition is in contemplation. Average values 10 dwt. over the stoping width. Output 1913, value £13,333. New Eclipse.-Owner : J. R. Stewart. Plant : 5-stamps, cyanide. Output 1913, value £10,660. Local Ruins.-The N’Natali ruins are 14 miles south of Shangani Siding, and about 16 miles east of Dhlo-Dhlo, and stand on a high kopje, 500 feet above the veld. Architec- turally the principal ruin is a beautiful structure ; its dimen- sions are small, and only cover an area of about 120 feet by 90 ft. The walls have a base of 10 ft., being massive and solid. On the summit are castellated battlements. The front main wall is about 90 ft. in length, and its present height 266 BULAW AYO TO GWELO 13 ft. It is most profusely covered with check pattern ; the masonry work, both inside and outside, is excellent. Among other ruins in the district are : Mudnezero Ruins, 4 miles north-west of Chilichani Hill, on a tributary of the Upper M'Chingwe River; Impanka Ruins, 3 miles north- east of Mudnezero Ruins ; Choko Ruins, on the north-west of the Choko Hills; and Regina Ruins, near Regina Mine. In the district of Filabusi are: Wheel of Fortune Ruins near Wheel of Fortune Claims ; Defiance Ruins, 1} miles east of Defiance claims ; Ingange ruins, 4 miles, and other ruins, 41 miles and 54 miles north of Defiance claims. The source of the Shangani River is a few miles south of the station. This is one of the most important rivers in Matabeleland, and flows for about 160 miles north-west, when it joins the Gwaai River. The railway now re-enters granite country which extends to within two miles of Gwelo. Beyond the Shangani bridge the line ascends to high ground, and on the south, ten miles away, is a prominent point, Mt. Longwe (4,953 feet), while beyond Longwe can be seen the Selukwe Hills. On the south side of the line the view is over apparently level country, known as Shangani Flats, which extend from Willoughby's Halt to Gwelo. At the river the line enters Gwelo District (see page 269). Daisyfield Siding (4,612 feet), 79 miles from Bulawayo. Is on Daisyfield farm, which lies to the south. Somabula Siding (4,637 feet), 92 miles from Bulawayo. Is at the southern extremity of the Somabula Forest, a narrow belt of country which extends for at least 70 miles, between the Vungu and Gwelo rivers. Willoughby's Halt (4,708 feet), 101 miles from Bula- wayo, 12 miles from Gwelo. Lies between the source of the Nygamo River (North) and the upper waters of the Lundi River (South), the latter one of the most important rivers in the country. The Somabula diamond area, 65 square miles in extent, Jies north of the Willoughby Spur. This is a series of drift deposits. Was originally prospected by the South African Option Syndicate, a subsidiary of Willoughby's 267 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Consolidated. Independent workers are now engaged on the field. Diamonds and other precious gems, such as sapphires, rubies, and chrysoberyls, have been discovered in some quantity. Gwelo Station (4,637 feet), 113 miles from Bulawayo. Is the junction of the Selukwe and Victoria branch lines. Hotels : Royal, Horseshoe, and Commercial. Hotel conveyances meet all trains. 268 XXV.-GWELO DISTRICT AND TOWN, SELUKWE DISTRICT, CHARTER DISTRICT GwELO DISTRICT is practically the central district of Southern Rhodesia. It measures some 105 miles from north to south, and 100 miles from east to west. Ad- joining Mashonaland on the east, it is bounded on the east by the Charter and Hartley districts of that pro- vince, on the north by Hartley and Sebungwe districts, on the west by Bubi District, and on the south by Selukwe and Insizi districts. It is admirably served by railways ; the main Bulawayo-Salisbury line runs through it, and there are branch lines to Victoria westwards, and to Selukwe southwards; the stations or sidings on these lines are respectively : Daisyfield, Somabula, Willough- by's Halt, Gwelo, Headwaters, Hunter's Road, Globe and Phænix, Sherward; Indiva, Lalapanzi, Iron Mine Hill ; Lyndhurst, Guinea Fowl. There is a decided fall 'in elevation towards the north and west, in which direction flow its principal rivers : Sanyati, Que-Que, Sebakwe, Vungu, Gwelo, and Shangani ; the Tokwe and Lundi both flow south, rising in the extreme south-east, which part of the district contains the dividing ridge of highlands between the Zambesi, Sabi, and Limpopo watersheds. Annual rainfall, from 26 to 28 inches in the east, and from 22 to 24 inches in the west. Principal hills : Mashaba and Samavumbe Ranges, and Sebakwe and Sinnanombi Hills. The native district of Gwelo contains 40 gold-mining properties, on which active operations are proceeding ; these include the Globe and Phenix, which is the largest mine in the country, the Gaika, Bell, Ardpatrick, King's, Moss, Moss Extension, Blucher, Willow, Rooster, Gothic and Pamagesa, Arizona No. 2, Arizona 28, Conqueror, Rocksand, Sceptre, Trouba- dour, Gretna Green, Connemara, Cactus, Shamrock, some 269 GUIDE TO RHODESIA etc. The Gwelo mining district contributes about 16,000 ozs. per month to the total gold output of the country, which is a larger total than that of any other district. Farming operations are extensive and are chiefly stock-farming. The soil, however, is extremely fertile. Returns of 25 and 30 bags of mealies, and even 40 bags to the acre are reported. There is a general shortage of surface water, but, on the other hand, under- ground streams are very numerous. Many large estates, notably in the Gwelo area proper, are being cut up into farms. A creamery was erected in 1913 by the British South Africa Company, and has done much to stimulate the dairy-farming industry generally, but particularly in the Gwelo and surrounding districts. Population : Whites (including Gwelo and Que-Que townships) 1,363 ; natives, 14,321. Big game shooting is plentiful, especially in Lower Gwelo. There are many ruins, some of major importance, Principal ruins : M'Telegwa, 10 miles north-west of Thabas Imamba Ruins (see page 266); Copper ruins, near the junction of the Vunga and Shangani Rivers ; Umvunga Ruins, on the south bank of the Vunga River, nine miles up from Hartley Hill road drift ; Little Umvunga Ruins, five miles north of M'Telegwa Ruins; Bembesani Ruins, three miles above the junction of the Bembesani and Sebakwe rivers ; two ruins near the junction of the Sebakwe and Umniati rivers ; Jombi Ruins, at the junction of the Jombi and Umniati rivers ; Tegati Ruins, seven miles north-west of Gwelo, as the crow flies ; and Umtebekwe Ruins, at three miles south-east of the Mac-a-Mac reef. Gwelo Town is laid out on the north side of Gwelo Kopje, on a site originally selected by Dr. (now Sir Starr). Jameson. At one time it was suggested that it should be called Jamesontown. The name actually chosen is a corruption of the old Karanga word kwira, a steep ascent, the name by which the place was known in pre-Matabele days; the Matabele employed the 270 Photos byl ISmart & Co., Guelo. Gwelo: (1) Court House. (2) Gwelo Club. (3) Masonic Temple. 271 POVRU (1) Gwelo Railway Station. (2) General View of Selukwe. 272 GWELO DISTRICT AND TOWN word for their kwelo a ladder. From the kopje mag- nificent views of surrounding country can be obtained-- of the Ghoko mountains to the south, of the Selukwe ranges, a hazy outline of peaks to the east, of Umkobolo Hill to the north, and, to the south-west, the rising ground on which the Somabula diamond diggings are located. Gwelo is laid out in broad streets and avenues, with trees shading the pathways on both sides, and there is a settled, enterprising community. A scheme to light the town by electricity has been adopted. Almost every kind of business is established. A newspaper, The Gwelo Times, is published every week. The town is the headquarters of the Magistrate and Civil Commissioner, Mining Commissioner, Native Commissioner, and Police of the district. The local authority is the Sanitary Board, but a petition for the establishment of a muni- cipality has been presented. Public institutions, etc.; Post Office, conducting every kind of postal business ; branches of the Standard Bank and of the National Bank of South Africa ; Chamber of Commerce ; Rate- payers' Association; Farmers' Association ; Agricultu- ral and Horticultural Society; Volunteer Squadron (Western Division) with Cadet Corps and Cadet Band ; Government Public School and Boarding House ; Convent School and Boarding House ; Churches : Anglican, Roman Catholic, Catholic, Congregational, while Naachtmaal (Dutch Reformed Church) is held twice yearly ; Hospital ; Public Library and Reading Room; Club; Masonic Temple: Gwelo Lodge of Freemasons, S.C..; turf, cricket, football, lawn tennis, rifle, hunt, and golf clubs. The Hunt Club holds weekly runs, following pedigree hounds imported from England. Aquatic sports are occasionally held in large pools which form each rainy season in the Gwelo River. There is large park and gymkhana ground. Theatrical and other entertainments are frequently given in the Stock Exchange Hall. Population : Whites, 500. Temperature : Maximum, 78, minimum, 52. Rainfall, about 28 inches. а 273 GWELO TO SELUKWE .. District, on the south-west by Insiza District, and on the south by Chibi District. Principal rivers : Tokwe, Shashi, Tebekwe, Little Tebekwe, and the upper waters of the Lundi ; all these rivers flow south and south-east and ultimately join the Lundi. The chief town and the headquarters of the Magistracy, Native Commissioner, and Police is Selukwe. The railway intersects the north-western part of the district for a distance of 12 miles, the sidings and stations being Guinea Fowl, Surprise, Chrome Mine, and Selukwe Township. District has a decided fall in elevation from the north towards the south, from 4,818 ft. to 2,300 ft. Average rainfall, about 44 ins. Population : Whites, 736 ; natives, 19,371. · Over 150 whites are engaged in farming; they own 16,908 cattle, and 2,766 sheep. Practically the whole district has been surveyed into farms, and scarcely any land is now available for settlement except in the eastern portion. Selukwe District is remarkably well wooded and well watered. Small buck are numerous. Fishing is obtainable in several of the rivers. The northern part of the district is an important gold mining area'; the following are among the mines either producing or being actively developed: Wanderer (and Camperdown), Yankee Doodle, Wolfshall, North Bonsor, South Bonsor, Glen Rosa No. 1, Csardas, Pompei, Broad Arrow, Wonderland, Chimborazo, Danga, Invulnerable, Brian Boru, New Dunraven, Tebekwe, Cinderella, Redhill, New Trial. Sunrise, Pretty Polly, Medicus, M'Kanya, Lancet, Exmouth D.B., and Eureka. The Chrome Mine has a large yearly output of chrome iron. The district abounds in ancient workings, and until recently the natives manufac- tured iron from the iron ores in the banded ironstone. The Wanderer and Camperdown mines (286 claims) are owned by the Wanderer (Selukwe) Gold Mines, Ltd., and are about five miles east of the railway at Selukwe. Reduction plant : 4 Gates Rolls, equal to about 100 stamps; the process is dry crushing, with cyaniding. Output 1913, value £73,862. output to date, value £955,262. Csardas.- Tributed by the Wolfshall Syndicate. Plant : 10 stamps, sands, slimes. Output 1913, value £28,865. New Dunraven.-Owners : New Dunraven Gold Mines, Ltd. Equipment : 5 stamps, sands. Output 1913, value £8,315. North Bonsor.-Owners : Willoughby's Consolidated. Claims worked on tribute by the Cornish Syndicate. Plant : 15 stamps, cyanide. Output 1913, value £25,212. 275 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Yankee Doodle.-Owners : Selukwe-Columbia Gold Mine, Ltd. Equipment : Chilian Mill, sands. Output 1913, value £67,982. From Guinea Fowl Siding the country falls to the south and traverses a mining district in which the gold reefs show innumerable large ancient workings along their outcrops. Farming lands extend on either side of the railway. Surprise Siding (4,794 feet), 15 miles from Gwelo. The Surprise gold mine is in the vicinity. Chrome Siding and Junction (4,644 feet), 22 miles from Gwelo. The chrome iron mine is connected by a short line with the siding. It is situated at a hill which is largely composed of chrome iron ore. Owners : Rhodesia Chrome Mines, Ltd. Chromite has been mined here continuously since 1905. The ore is quarried and sent to Europe and America viâ Beira. The supply is said to be inexhaustible, and these deposits probably rank as the most important known in the whole world. Output 1913 : 63,384 tons, value £141,482 ; total production 279,651 tons, value £639,466. The line afterwards runs through Sebanga Poort to Selukwe Terminus. Selukwe Terminus (4,734 feet), 23 miles from Gwelo. An important centre for a very large area of mining and farming country. Selukwe Township is incomparably the most prettily situated township in Matabeleland. The high plateau of Matabeleland suddenly collapses, dropping about 1,000 feet close round the township, forming gigantic ravines and precipices which afford magnificent views over the Victoria and Chibi districts, and of Belingwe Peak. There are within an hour's walk a number of ideal spots in creeper-canopied dells of tree-ferns and maidenhair, and at waterfalls amid delightful scenery. The public buildings include Magistrate's Court, Native Commissioner's offices, Police camp, post and telegraph offices, telephone exchange, public school, hospital, drill hall. Two churches (Church of England 276 GWELO TO VICTORIA and Wesleyan). Gymkhana, cricket, football, lawn tennis, golf, rifle and revolver clubs. Hotel. Population : Whites, 350. GWELO TO VICTORIA (for GREAT ZIMBABWE). The line from Gwelo to Umvuma, 56 miles, and thence to Victoria, another 80 miles, branches off from the Selukwe line at Lyndhurst Junction, and thence proceeds north-north-west as far as Lalapanzi Siding. It is probable that in the near future the dis- tance between Gwelo and Umvuma will be lessened by diverting the western portion of the line to a direct route between Gwelo and Indiva Siding, thus following the route of the Bulawayo-Salisbury coach road. Two miles beyond the Junction, and for a distance of four miles, the line crosses a large block of farm land (23,800 acres), owned by Willoughby's Consolidated, Ltd., and known as Wildebeeste Block. Close to the northern side of the line is the Umsungwe Block, owned by the same company, and containing some 37,000 Between this point and Indiva Siding are the upper waters of the Que-Que River, close to the north of the line, while the headwaters of the Tebekwe River are close to the south. The line from this point runs parallel to the Bulawayo-Salisbury coach road as far as Iron Mine Hill Siding, a road originally made by the Salisbury and Victoria Columns when marching on Bulawayo in 1893. Indiva Siding (4,546 feet), 19 miles from Gwelo. Is on Indiva Farm, and serves a number of farms. Lalapanzi Siding (4,907 feet), 30 miles from Gwelo. Is on Lalapanzi Farm, and is the headquarters of the Lalapanzi Farmers' Association. Hotel, store, post office. The pasturage in this locality is exceptionally good for cattle. Of the thirty-six farms hereabouts, thirty have been taken up. Zontimba Hill (4,904 feet) lies to the north of the Siding, and Tokwe Hill (4,900 feet) to the south. Close to the north, between Lalapanzi acres. 277 GUIDE TO RHODESIA and Iron Mine Hill sidings, is the source of the Bem- besani River, which flows north-west and joins the Sebakwe River. At eight miles east of Lalapanzi, the railway line leaves the Gwelo district and enters Charter District. Charter District, which is in Mashonaland, is bounded on the north by Hartley and Marandellas districts, on the east by Makoni, Umtali and Melsetter districts, on the south by Gutu, Chibi, and Chilimanzi districts, and on the west by Gwelo district. Its area, between extreme points is 140 miles from east to west, and varies from 25 to 40 miles from north to south. The eastern portion is known as the Sabi Native Reserve. Principal rivers : Sebakwe, Umniati, Ngezi, feeders of the Zambesi ; Sabi, Mwerari, and Nyadzidza. Principal ranges : Manize, Mashaba which intersect the district from south to north and run parallel to each other at a distance of from 15 to 20 miles, and Damangombe ; principal hills : Guwe, Doraba, Tshimvari, Dembgha, Mali, Marabgze, and Gambe. Practically 164 farms and ranches have been taken up, and several large estates are mostly being developed by com- panies for ranching purposes. The following gold-mining properties have reached the producing stage : Falcon and Athens, Beacon Hill, Denbeigh, and Ballarat; the following are being developed : Lucky, Themes, Elemiende, King Solomon, Sheba, Gift, Success, and Blue. Iron ore is mined at the Patrol. Population : Whites, 417 ; natives, 55,507. Average rainfall : At Charter, 35 ins., at Enkeldoorn, 33 ins. The administrative centre for Charter District is Enkel- doorn. Fort Charter, the site of a laager of the Pioneer Column of 1891, was the official headquarters in the early days, but it lost its importance when the Bulawayo- Salisbury railway was completed, as it was one of the posting- stations on the coach road between those two towns. After entering Charter District the line all the way to Umyuma intersects the western portion of the Central Estates (see later) and crosses several streams constituting the upper waters of the Umvuma River, which flows north and joins the Sebakwe River. Iron Mine Hill Siding (4,751 feet), 39 miles from Gwelo. Congregational church. Rifle company. 278 GWELO TO VICTORIA The Hill (4,904 feet) lies on the south side of the line. On it are a large number of very old iron workings. Umvuma Station (4,539 feet), 56 miles from Gwelo. Was until recently the railway terminus. The line, however, was extended to Victoria (see next chapter) during 1914. Later on it proposed to carry a line from this place to Odzi, near Umtali. Weekly coach services are run between Umvuma and Enkeldoorn. Umvuma Station is on the Central Estates, and in close proximity to the Falcon Mine. Hotel, stores, branch of the Standard Bank. There are several offices and places of business, the township being an important distributing and collecting centre. Falcon Mine.-A gold and copper proposition which bids fair to become one of the largest mines in Rhodesia. Owners : Falcon Mines, Ltd. Ore reserves, approximately 800,000 tons ; average value 49s. per ton. Treatment plant : 36 Nissen stamps, concentrating plant, tube mills, blast furnaces, etc., having a capacity of 15,000 tons per month, from which both the copper and gold contents will be recovered. Manager : A. Logan. Managers of the Company : Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Company, Ltd. From Umvuma are reached the homesteads of the Central Estates, six miles, and that of Rhodesdale Estate, 18 miles, two of the largest cattle ranches in Rhodesia. The Central Estates (4,600 ft.) comprise 365,000 acres, which are given up almost entirely to cattle ranching. Owners : Willoughby's Consolidated, Ltd. The herds number con- siderably over 10,000 head, the bulk being native Mashona and Africander cattle : the grade is being steadily raised by the importation of Lincoln Reds and pedigree Hereford bulls. Col. Napier, C.M.G., M.L.C., is general manager. On the estate are several mines, among them the Beacon Hill, Excelsior, Athens and Falcon mines. The Rhodesdale Ranch lies north of the Central Estates, and is reached from Umvuma Station. Is owned and con- ducted by the British South Africa Company; manager : J. H. Fleming. The area is over 500,000 acres, mainly of virgin veld. The herds, chiefly native cattle, number over 20,000 head. 279 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Enkeldoorn, 32 miles from Umvuma. Is the head- quarters of the Resident Magistrate, Native Commis- sioner, District Surgeon, and Police, and is the centre of a growing agricultural district. Churches : Dutch Reformed Church, with a Resident Pastor ; Church of England. Public Library. The most convenient way of reaching Enkeldoorn is viâ Gwelo and Umvuma. Felixburg and Locality.–Felixburg proper is a farm situated on the high plateau south of the Shashi River. What is known as Felixburg District is a group of farms immediately surrounding this property. All these farms are on the high veld and most of them are from 4,900 ft. to 5.000 ft. above sea-level, and are between the head waters of the Shashi, Devuli, Popotekwe, Itelekwe, and Umsha- gashi rivers. The locality is well watered, nearly every farm having a perennial stream. New farmhouses are cropping up in all directions. Felixburg is 51 miles north of Victoria township and 23 miles south of Umvuma township. White population, about 100. Government farm school at Mr. Bourdman's farm, Smiling Vale. Post and telephone offices and store on the farm Felixburg. The locality is essentially a gold belt one, and many small gold properties have been discovered. Principal mines : Cheerup and Wakeup, Wakeup John, Trueblue, Alexandra, Sunbeam and Helpmekaar. South of the gold belt is situated a well-known hill, called Zomo, which is fairly high and can be seen at some points a distance of 30 miles away. It is full of old workings, holes, etc. 280 (1) A Homestead in Rhodesia. (2) Ranch Cattle at Rhodesdale. 281 XXVI.-VICTORIA, N’DANGA, CHIBI, GUTU, AND CHILIMANZI DISTRICTS The route to these districts is viâ Gwelo and Victoria, thence by coach. The area as a whole contains some of the best evidences of the ancient occupations of Rhodesia, and no other part provides such fine scenery, or such abundant funds of ethnological, zoological, botanical, or mineralogical information. > VICTORIA DISTRICT AND TOWN. Victoria District extends 50 miles from north to south and from east to west, and has a population of 300 Whites and 30,500 natives. The elevation falls from 3,380 feet in the north to 2,600 feet in the south. The western and southern districts notably are well watered. Average rainfall, 25.85 inches. District is, par excellence, a grain and cattle-producing area- it has always been known as the “ Granary of Rhodesia -with enormous potentialities, now that it has railway communication with outside markets. Mining for gold and asbestos is carried on, among the properties being : Texas, Dundee, King (asbestos), Mashaba (asbestos), Cambrian, Etna, Lemberg, Reve d'Or, Ruby, Scorpion, Athole, Comet, etc. Texas Mine.--Worked by G. Scott. Plant : 10 stamps, cyanide. Output, 1913 : value, £12,606. Victoria Township (3,670 feet). The town of Victoria is the chief settlement in Southern Mashonaland. The site is some six miles south-west of the site of the settle- ment originally established by the Pioneer Column of 1890. Town is the headquarters of the Resident Magistrate and Civil Commissioner, Native Commissioner, and Police of the district, and of the postal service for the districts of Victoria, N’danga, and Chibi. Hotel, bank, reading- room, hospital, lawn tennis courts, and church. There are 282 N'DANGA DISTRICT several stores which supply camping outfits for hunting or other parties. Visitors to Zimbabwe proceed from Victoria. Distances : Zimbabwe 15 miles, Umvuma 80, Selukwe 88, Gutu's (Native Commissioner's Camp) 27, N’danga (Native Commissioner's Camp) 40, Chibi's (Native Commissioner's Camp) 35, Charter 123, Salisbury 188, Tuli 205. Telephonic connection with Gutu, N’danga, and Chibi districts. Some six miles from the township is an interesting spot known as Providential Pass by reason of an experience of the Pioneer Column. For some time after entering it, the pioneers erroneously believed they were in a cul-de-sac and consequently at the mercy of the natives. The Pass lies to the south- west, and extends in a winding course for a distance of about seven miles, being in parts very narrow. About nine miles south-south-west is a prominent landmark, Inyanda (Cotopaxi) Mountain, a “ venerated hill, and the burial-place of the ancient Karanga kings. In the district also is the Morgenster Mission of the Dutch Reformed Church, which, though connected with Victoria by wagon-road direct, is best reached by native path from Zimbabwe (3} miles S.S.W.). Morgenster has a notable banana plantation, lemon and orange groves, and a large irrigated garden. Great Zimbabwe is described in the succeeding chapter. Some seven miles south-east of Zimbabwe are small ruins known as Mpaku, or Little Zimbabwe. They are interesting as belonging to a much later period than the Zimbabwe Temple. There are also extensive caves at Mpaku. N'DANGA DISTRICT. N’danga District lies to the south and south-east of Victoria District, its other boundaries being Portu- guese East Africa and Melsetter District on the east, Chibi District (partly) on the west, Lundi River on the south, and Charter District on the north. It extends for 150 miles from north to south and 105 miles from east to west. There is a fall in elevation from 3,100 feet in the north to 1,300 feet in the south-east. In the north 283 GUIDE TO RHODESIA are large areas of grạnite hills with fertile valleys and, in many parts, an abundant perennial water supply ; towards the south the district is drier, with open sand belts; and the low country is swampy during the time the rivers are overflowing. Principal rivers : Sabi, Lundi, Dervuli, Cheredzi, Motorikoi. Some of the largest trees growing in Rhodesia are to be found in the neighbourhood of these rivers. Game generally is plentiful; and the district swarms with lions, leopards, wild dogs, jackals, etc. The White population, viz., 33, is mostly official ; natives, 69,000. The centres of the district are at N’danga (Native Commissioner's Camp, Police Camp, and telephone to Victoria) and Bitika (Assistant Native Commissioner's Camp), the latter being 60 miles east of N’danga. There is a store (Finch's) 50 miles east of Victoria on the old Gazaland road to Moodies Drift on the Sabi River, and one (Holman's) five miles north-east of N’danga. The Makonda prehistoric copper workings are situated near the Sabi River. At five miles south-south-west of N'danga is the Madzimzangara Cave, containing large Bushman paintings; there are also ruins and small Bushman paintings in the vicinity of Holman's Store, and caves and Bushman paintings on Rongwe Moun- tain, a venerated hill 40 miles away, east-south-east. Near Finch's Store are other ruins : Mereri Ruins, four miles north-north-east; Urungaranga Ruins five miles north-north-west. CHIBI DISTRICT. Chibi (more correctly Chibgwe) District is roughly 140 miles from north to south and 150 miles from east to west, and is bordered by : The Transvaal on the south, N’danga District on the east, Belingwe and Tuli districts on the west, and Victoria District on the north. It comprises vast tracts of quartzite ironstone and slate formation abounding with sand, such tracts being termed “thirst land ” by the natives. There are other areas that are fairly well watered. Principal rivers : Lundi, Manetzi, Limpopo (for 20 miles). Population : Whites, 12 (mainly official); natives, 29,400. 284 GUTU DISTRICT The centre of the district is Chibi (Native Commis- sioner's Camp, Police camp, telephone to Victoria). Near by are several Bushman paintings. Ruins : Rundi (Lundi) Ruin.—Situated on a granite eminence 500 yards on the left bank of the Lundi River, within two miles of the old posting station on the Pioneer Road from Tuli to Victoria. Ruin built on circular plan, and has a diameter of 54 ft. Ornamentations on east side, consisting of two rows of sloping blocks and two rows of draught-board pattern. Walls have a base of 5 ft., and the highest point now standing measures about 9 ft.; the workmanship is good. Lower Rundi Ruin.Situated 15 miles south-east of the posting station on the south bank of the Lundi River. Is very similar to the above. On the middle of the south- eastern wall is 10 feet of herring-bone pattern. GUTU DISTRICT. Gutu District lies north of Victoria and N’danga districts, east of Chilimanzi District, and south and west of Charter District, and is 110 miles from east to west, and 70 miles from north to south. Altitude ranges from 3,100 feet in the south-west to 4,400 feet in the north-west. Aver- age rainfall, 32 inches. District is well watered by the Dervuli and its numerous tributaries, and also by the upper reaches of the Motorikoi. Is the greatest cattle- producing district, and also one of the largest grain- producing districts, in Southern Mashonaland; the natives own 35,000 head of cattle, 15,000 sheep and goats, and produce 175,000 bags of grain in ordinary seasons. The Native Commissioner's camp, which has telephone connection with Victoria, is situated in the Wiru Hills, and is about 20 miles east of Machowerie's. Population : Whites, 33 (mainly official) ; natives, 36,000. Though in the Charter district, the Matendere and Chironga ruins are best reached from Gutu's, being 55 miles east-north-east on foot. Matendere Ruins (incorrectly called Matendella, and fully described in “ The Ruined Cities of Mashonaland and in “ The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia ") are on a bare granite rock about 150 ft. above veld-level. Plan is elliptical, and 285 GUIDE TO RHODESIA an the walls are very massive-nearly 12 ft. at the base and even now 15 ft. high. Ruins appear to be later and are poorer in workmanship than Zimbabwe; they cover area of 220 ft. by 180 ft. On the outside western wall herring bone pattern is to be seen, extending 6 ft. in one row and 40 ft. in another, while there is a row of dentelle pattern. Monoliths once stood on the summit of the walls. Chironga (Chilonga) Ruins.—These are situated among the Chironga Hills. The workmanship is far inferior to and later than that of Zimbabwe. The place has caves and rock passages. Ruins are a system of ramp cut walls only. There are Bushman paintings near. CHILIMANZI DISTRICT. Chilimanzi District lies between Umvuma and Victoria. Is bounded on the north by Charter District, on the east by Gutu District, on the south by Victoria District, and on the west by Selukwe District ; and is approximately 30 miles from east to west and 45 miles from north to south. Is traversed from north to south by the Shashi River, and contains numerous tributaries of other rivers. There is a very decided fall in the country from north to south. A considerable area has been surveyed as farm holdings. Population : Whites, 359 ; natives, 14,393. The official headquarters of the Native Commissioner and Police are at Chilimanzi. : 286 Wates Gats notoria Road LRAL PLAN Tract Wall IBWE RUINS showing position of each ruin to ruins Now Ascent Siind footpaths re or less broken ruing not accurately measured in dreun approximately at of 50 fat Scale of Yardo 1$ 200 outon Pauline 20 Faviſan camp camp Ruins . Shangaid Grave cartop Rufre 2e2. Ridge Racinis Poseslt Laitra Laxastal Kopje Spring o & Pools stription Posselte o camp Grays of 1. Bailey MN oo MT Bencs Camp Faces page 287. XXVII.-GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS The winter months—April to November—are recom- mended as the best time to visit Zimbabwe, though it is a perfectly healthy spot at any other time of the year. Zimbabwe is approached direct from Victoria, the nearest settlement. On the ruins area is Mr. Mundell's camp, where good accommodation at reasonable charges is obtainable. In addition to the ruins themselves, there are several picturesque spots and places of interest in the vicinity, besides native villages, all well within an hour or two hours' walk. Great Zimbabwe Ruins are the remains of an old city, at various times the home of enormous populations. Over the region hangs a veil of intensest mystery. Evidences point to Great Zimbabwe being the work of a prehistoric and long-forgotten people. Sir Rider Haggard, in Allan Quartermain,” in “ The Dawn," and in “King Solomon's Mines,” has woven over the Zimbabwe country the webs of most interesting and exciting romance ; and Zimbabwe Hill provided the description for the residence of “ She," while the ruins in the valley are “ the dead city” in the same romance. The earliest Portuguese and Dutch writers also en- haloed these ruins with mythical association with King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, but, of course, this romantic idea may safely be dismissed. But, apart from novelists' stories and the traditions of the credulous writers of the last few centuries, Great Zimbabwe still presents an enigma and a romance which are attracting considerable attention in the highest scientific circles. The problem most probably finds its solution on the lines of Hall and Neal's hypothesis, as stated in “ The Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia,” and re-stated in Hall's “ Prehistoric Rhodesia.” Briefly, this is as follows :- 1. The evidences from the rock mines clearly point to this, that in most remote times Rhodesia was exploited for gold 287 GUIDE TO RHODESIA by Asiatics, probably Arabians and people from the Persian Gulf, who extracted gold to a value of more than a hundred million pounds sterling, mining with Indian labour, the whole of this gold being exported. The gold was taken without let or hindrance. This exploitation was carried on over a period of many centuries, and at a time covering in point of date the Solomonic and Ophir period of the Scriptures. 2. The Bantu then arrived and caused a catastrophe to the rock-mining operations and their ultimate cessation. This catastrophe did not occur before the present Zimbabwe had been erected on the site of a still earlier settlement of gold- workers. In all probability Bantu labour was employed under Asiatic influence in the erection of the present Zimbabwe. 3. The Bantu thus received an engraft of a culture in dressed stone. On the extermination or withdrawal of the Asiatic gold-seekers this Zimbabwe cult of building was displayed by the Bantu in subsequent buildings, but always in a more decadent form until, in the course of centuries, it ultimately became dissolved into the rudely piled up ramparts of unhewn stone, which form, again, has now fallen into desuetude. Thus, the Zimbabwe ceremonial fell into oblivion, and the more skilful mining operations became dissolved into the washing of river-sand and alluvial soil, as described in the mediæval Portuguese history of these regions. Great Zimbabwe becomes consequently a most valu- able, link in connecting up the chain of evidences con- cerning the period of the remote antiquity of gold-mining in Rhodesia with the historic period of this country, commencing over a thousand years ago. The present Zimbabwe, however, does not date the coming of the first Asiatic gold exploiters, but rather marks the close of their operations. What the secret of the earlier Zimbabwe may be it is, as yet, premature to say. Only further systematic exploration of the site and its en- vironments is likely to reveal it.* The Elliptical Temple. The Elliptical Temple should be inspected first. If possible, the Acropolis Ruins, which mean a 250 feet * For fuller description of the Zimbabwe Ruins see Guide to Great Zimbabwe, 2s. 6d., published by Philpott & Collins, Bulawayo, or Great Zimbabwe, by R. N. Hall, 10s, 6d., Methuen, London. 288 Matendere Ruins : Walls showing (1) Herring-bone and (2) Dentelle Patterns. K 289 GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS climb up Zimbabwe Hill, should be visited either in the early part of the morning or in the late afternoon, rather than in the middle of the day. Naturally, those who have but a few hours at their disposal have no choice in the matter. The characteristics of building construction as ex- emplified at Great Zimbabwe are the granite and dry masonry. No mortar or cement has been employed except in laying floors and steps, and in dadoes running round the interior lower faces of the walls. And also granite blocks were used, these being about nine inches by seven on their faces ; most of the blocks were broken from large flat and shallow slabs, which split fairly square and handy for the builder, but others were trimmed with metal tools, and many with diorite hammers, the marks of the chisels and of the starrings of the stone hammers being still discernible. Prac- tically all the features are rounded, very few being angular. The plan of the Temple is elliptical, and the walls, which average in height from 22 feet to 32 feet, are wide at the base and narrowed at the summit, the thickest walls being 15 feet wide at base and 10 feet at top. The drainage was planned when the foundations were laid, and is admirable. The total length of pas- sages within the building is 360 feet; the circumference of the interior is 770 feet. No single one of the many scores of ruins of the oldest type in Rhodesia shows any signs of having been roofed over, and at this Temple, the most intact of any of these structures, there are no such evidences. In 1905 it was reported that a piece of Nankin china had been found at depth, but at a greater depth still a soda-water bottle and other very modern articles have been found. This shows how the double-trenching operations of unauthorised prospectors, who were at the Ruins about 1890-4, had destroyed and mixed up the broken floors of older and later occupiers with the virgin soil below the level of the foundations of the main wall. 291 K 2 GUIDE TO RHODESIA There is a wide difference in the proportions and neatness of construction between the northern and eastern portions of the main wall and those of the western portions. The internal divisional walls also differ very materially in their size and style of building. Some are very massive and as well built as any portion of the main walls, while others are slight and of very poor construction. It is a matter of ocular demonstra- tion that these walls are not by any means all of the same age. Some are built obliquely over older struc- tures which had become buried in debris. The building has evidently been occupied at different periods by totally different classes of people. The first occupiers were skilful in building, engraving, and carving. The other and later people were Bantu of very low order and of exceedingly dirty habits. The drains became choked up with usual Kaffir debris until they were buried to a depth of from 4 feet to 11 feet. These later occupiers evidently rearranged the enclosures to suit their own requirements. From the number of obvious reconstructions, they must have found the Temple in actual ruins on their arrival. All the reconstructions and later walls are far inferior in workmanship to that of the original walls. On the upper and later red clay floors only compara- tively modern Kaffir articles and twelfth and thirteenth century articles (imported) are to be found. On the lower floors have been found gold ornaments beautifully made, some engraved ; carved soapstone bowls of immense size, phalli, carved soapstone beams, stone birds, and the oldest forms of gold ingot mould. These lower floors are made of excellent granite cement. The Tower enclosure, within which stand the Conical Tower and the now ruined Little Cone, lies on the south-east side of the Temple. In shape it is long and narrow, the Conical Tower practically dividing the area into two almost equal sections. Here has been found a soapstone cylinder decorated with rosettes, closely resembling in form and decoration the cylinder found in the Phænician Temple of Paphos, in Cyprus. The 292 Zimbabwe Ruins : The Conical Tower. 293 N° 2 ENCLOSURE Zimbabwe Ruins : (1) The Temple, showing original wall (on the left) and a later and decadent style of wall. (2) Wall with Chevron Pattern, 294 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Western India. It is most certainly not characteris- tically African, nor can it be a mere freak of Bantu builders. The Little Cone stands 5 feet away at the north-east of the Conical Tower. Its reduced height is 6 feet 6 inches, and it has a circumference at its base of 27 feet 7 inches. This tower was also perfectly solid through- out. The Parallel Passage is approached by a well-built entrance of the oldest type. The upright grooves in the masonry on either side once contained tall stone beams ; similar stone beams are found in situ at other entrances. The passage is 220 feet in length, and varies in width from about shoulders' width at the eastern end to 8 feet and 10 feet at the northern section. The main wall averages in height from 26 feet to 31 feet. The present height of the inner wall varies from 8 feet to 16 feet. Two perfect phalli have been found under the cement floor of the passage, and also a fine specimen of a rounded diorite stone pierced with a hole, and claimed to be a true specimen of the linga. This was the second specimen of the sort discovered. On clearing away from four to six feet of Kaffir rubbish and wall debris which covered the cement flooring, quantities of portions of phalli, carved soapstone beams and bowls, gold plates, gold tacks, and gold beads were discovered. Priests or other officials engaged in the ceremonies could by means of this long, deep, and narrow passage reach the Sacred Enclosure from the exterior of the Temple at the North Entrances altogether unobserved, as along its entire length it has no communication with any other part of the interior of the Temple. It is possible that this passage might have been exclusively used by the ministers of the sacred rites or other cere- monies. The same surmise might be made with regard to the purpose of the Parallel Passages in the Eastern and Western Temples on the Acropolis, these places having, with the Elliptical Temple, yielded, with but very few exceptions, the whole of the many phalli yet found at Zimbabwe or elsewhere in the country. These 296 Zimbabwe Ruins : Parallel Passage. 297 Zimbabwe Ruins : North Entrance to Temple. 298 GRÉAT ZIMBABWE RUINS three buildings also have in common curved and decorated main walls surmounted by inonoliths, and directed either to east or west only, and also have high platforms approached by steps. The North Entrance was evidently the main entrance to the Temple. It is high up the wall and about 15 feet in width ; until 1902 it was buried to a depth of seven feet in wall debris and soil, which covered a splendid flight of steps. This is the finest entrance yet found in any ancient Rhodesian building. It is the form of all entrances in the oldest type of building, but is absent from all later buildings. Three passages from the interior of the Temple—the Parallel Passage, Inner Parallel Passage, and South Passage--converge on this entrance, while on its exterior the North-east Passage, 350 feet in length, and the Outer Parallel Passage also converge upon it. On removing the debris which buried this entrance a quantity of gold in the form of beads, gold plates, gold tacks, and portions of gol bangles were discovered at the foot of the steps. Visitors would find it most convenient at this point to pass to the eastern exterior of the building, there to view the chevron pattern. This pattern, which is probably inscription ” mentioned by the Persian merchants of 1505, is one of the oldest decorative patterns known to research. It is found plentifully on all ancient Egyptian monuments and on Phænician coins, and is the ancient hieroglyphic for water; it is also the zodi- acal sign of Aquarius, was the symbol of Fertility, and is now a common pattern among Bantu races, though common to aborigines of other parts of the world also. The pattern is worked out in granite blocks. It is on the upper portion of the main wall, and extends for 265 feet 6 inches from south-east to east-north-east, being that part only of the wall which alone receives directly the rays of the sun when rising at the summer solstice. Whether this is a purely accidental fixing of the position or was so designed is at present a moot point. On the summit of the wall directly over the pattern, and along its length only, were monoliths of granite and slate (the the 66 299 GUIDE TO RHODESIA bases and portions of twenty-six still remain in situ), and also tall and slender carved soapstone beams and two rows of small conical towers. The magnificent proportions, splendidly correct courses, and the equal distribution of joints of the exterior of this wall should be noted. The exteriors of several drains are to be seen between this point and the North Entrance. The Acropolis Ruins. The Acropolis Ruins are on Zimbabwe Hill, an isolated granite kopje faced by high cliffs, which render it inac- cessible on three sides and very difficult of ascent on the fourth, or north-west, side. No doubt the old builders were attracted to Zimbabwe by the natural stronghold afforded by the hill and its strategic position, which they artificially strengthened by massive rampart walls, traverses, screen-walls, intricate entrances, narrow and labyrinthine passages, sunken thoroughfares, ban- quettes, parapets, and other devices of a people thor- oughly conversant with military engineering and defence. These devices, in their ingenuity, massive character and persistent repetition at every point of vantage, astonish the highest experts of modern military engin- eering. The strong presumption is that the ancient gold miners were in constant fear of some local or neighbouring races. These ruins are as yet only very partially explored. They are mainly fortifications enclosing what are con- jectured to be two Temples, and are very extensive. On the hill are several caves, and also some natural rock passages. Above the precipices are massive walls, on the summits of which some dozen monoliths, more or less erect, are still to be seen standing. There are two well-defined approaches to the summit of the Acropolis, one on the south side of the hill, the other on the face of the hill fronting the west-north-west. Each ascent was formed by a narrow and exceedingly steep passage with walls on either side, which were originally some 7 feet to 12 feet in height and with steps on their floors ; several lengths of steps still 300 IS RUINS abwe IC of Teet bny Wes Ench Higher Para, Plateau Rock Passage Gold furnace Enclosure wound this Faces page 300. GREAT ZIMBABWE RUINS remain, though they are now in a very dilapidated condition. On the summit of the Acropolis are the remains of two Temples, in each of which phalli, carved stone birds on pillars, monoliths, and quantities of gold were discovered. The Western Temple occupies a commanding position on the extreme end of the hill. On its western side it is bounded by a very massive wall curving outwards, the top of which, on the outer edge, was originally decorated by a row of small conical towers, all equidistant, and tall slate monoliths, also equidistant. Portions of some of these conical towers and a few of the monoliths still remain. The curved wall is 137 feet long and 25 feet above the exterior ground, and it has a width at the top varying between 12 feet and 14 feet, while its base is from 19 feet to 22 feet wide. It is the widest wall yet discovered in Rhodesia. The Parallel Passage at this Temple is 71 feet long. The south wall is 31 feet in height and is still 78 feet long; originally it was at least 127 feet in length. The Platform is reached by the Covered Passage at the eastern end of the Temple. It is 10 feet long and its roof and the wall built over it are supported by large slate lintels. [N.B.—Instead of going through this passage visitors are directed to ascend to the Platform by the broken end of the wall, a few feet to the right of the passage.] The Platform is 27 feet above the present filled-in floor of the Temple and about 32 feet above its original paved floors, which are all buried in red soil and debris. A slate monolith, inserted in the masonry, stands 8 feet high, and is still intact; another, once erect, lies prone across the Platform. Originally there was also a granite monolith, 14 feet 8 inches above the masonry. At the back of the Platform is a dentelle pattern, which was once both higher and broader. It still measures 3 feet 6 inches each way. The Eastern Temple is situated upon a large ledge of cliff, and is bounded on its north and west sides by higher cliffs rising perpendicularly from its floor to come 50 feet and 70 feet higher. It is open on its 301 GUIDE TO RHODESIA a east and south-east sides, A curved wall runs round its open side. The main east wall, which is curved outwards, is 98 feet long and 25 feet high at its highest point (exterior measurements) and on its inner side has a banquette or terraced wall. On its exterior face it is decorated near the top with two rows of dentelle pattern. On its summit once stood a number of soap- stone beams, carved with geometric patterns. On the highest tier and in the angle made by the cliff boulders are steps leading under a natural archway into Balcony Enclosure, where is the Balcony or Platform overlooking the interior of the Temple. In this Temple have been found five soapstone beams, surmounted with carved birds and a portion of a sixth bird ; these are now in the South African Museum at Cape Town. The finds of sections of decorated beams and carved soapstone bowls, phalli, gold bangles, gold beads, gold plates, tacks, and gold stick ferrules, have been larger here than at any spot at Zimbabwe, except the Sacred Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple. Amongst other discoveries is Sunken Passage running below the Temple floor from north-east to west-south-west for 23 feet. It is 6 feet wide and has walls on either side 9 feet in height. It was originally covered over with long slate beams, which have collapsed into the Passage. The Valley of Ruins. The Valley of Ruins lies between the Elliptical Temple and Zimbabwe Hill. This is a conglomeration of ruins which are practically unexamined. Some are massive and well built, and are undoubtedly old, while others are of poor construction and of later date. In the older ruins, relics pointing to a considerable age have been found, but in the poorer buildings nothing has been discovered relating to any period before the twelfth or thirteenth century of this era. Such ruins as have been examined now bear the names of those connected with the discoveries at Zimbabwe; the names on a sign are placed in a prominent position. The ruins are : Render's Ruins, Posselt Ruins, Phillips Ruins, Maund 302 Zimbabwe Ruins : (1) Entrance to Spiral Stairway, Acropolis Ruins. (2) Granite Monoliths. 303 XXVIII.-GWELO TO SALISBURY FROM Gwelo the line to Salisbury leaves the high land dividing the Zambesi and Limpopo watersheds, and passes into the Zambesi watershed. The Gwelo River is crossed a few miles from the station. This river, which rises ten miles south-east of Gwelo, has a course of about 110 miles, when it joins the Shangani River. The district along its course westward from the line is known as Lower Gwelo, and contains several mining pro- perties, including the Gothic and Pagamesa, Do-me-Good, Leopard, Trixie, Rose of Sharon, Shamrock, and Rocksand mines. The Gothic and Pagamesa Mines, 90 claims, are situated some 50 miles north-west of Gwelo. Owners : Mashona- land Agency, Ltd. Both mines have been opened up to the fourth level. Ore reserves, approximately 30,000 tons ; average value, 15 dwts. Reduction plant : 15-stamp mill, 2 grinding pans, cyanide. Crushing commenced in 1913. Output, 1913 : value, £9,056. From the river the line passes between two large estates, the Fife Scott Block on the west, and the Umsungwe Block on the east. Headwaters Siding (4,663 feet), 125 miles from Bula- wayo, 12 from Gwelo, 176 from Salisbury. Is the centre for what will later be an important farming district. The long line of the Ingwenia Hills lies on the west of the line, extending northwards parallel to it. Hunter's Road Siding (4,227 féet)137 miles from Bulawayo, 164 from Salisbury. Is the centre of a mining and farming area. Hotel, stores, recreation and sports club. The mining properties in the vicinity include : Connemara, Cactus, Tit-Bit, Ben More, Lance, Zabonke, and Zazel. 306 GWELO TO SALISBURY The Que-Que River is crossed seven miles north of Hunter's Road ; the river is a tributary of the Sebakwe and has a course of 55 miles from its source in Charter District. Here the country becomes more broken, and a range of well-wooded hills extends on the west to Globe and Phenix Station. Connemara Mine.-Owners : Connemara Mining Co., represented by Willoughby's Consolidated. Plant to treat 6,000 tons per month is under consideration. Ore reserves : 264,425 tons ; average value, 31s. 8d. Chicago-Gaika Mine Spur (4,026 feet). The Gaika and Bell mines are in the vicinity. Gaika.—Is situated near the Globe and Phenix Mine. Owners : Gaika Gold Mining Co., Ltd., represented by the Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co.; manager : J. Murdoch Eaton. Has been a regular producer for several years and is in the dividend-paying list. Is opened up to the fourth level. Plant : 5-stamp mill, Chilian mill, grinding pan, cyanide. Output 1913, value £66,297. Bell. Is situated a few miles to the west of the Globe and Phenix Mine. Owners : Bell Reef Development Co., represented by the Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co.; manager : W. J. Almond. Mine was at one time under tribute and excellent results were obtained. Since then has been taken over by the present owners, who commenced crushing in 1914. Plant : Ball mills, roasting furnaces, and tube mills ; capacity, 4,000 tons per month. Globe and Phønix (or Que-Que) Station (3,978 feet), 155 miles from Bulawayo, 146 from Salisbury. Is the station for Que-Que township and the Globe and Phenix and other mines. The township is situated close to the west of the railway, at the foot of Globe and Phenix Kopje, and forms the centre of the sub-district of Gwelo known as Que-Que, the population of which is estimated at 500 Whites and 4,000 natives. Que-Que township is governed by a Village Management Board. It has macadamised streets, and water is laid on throughout. Business centre is well filled. Stands are sold at from £100 by the Estates Department of the British South Africa Company. An Assistant Magistrate is stationed in the township. 307 GWELO TO SALISBURY Rhodesia. With Dr. Carl Mauch, he was the discoverer of the Mazoe goldfields. The district comprises an area of 6,190 square miles, or approximately 3,961,600 acres, and for about 82 miles is bisected by the Bulawayo-Salisbury line. There are several important consuming centres, such as Hartley, Gatooma, the Eiffel Flats, and Gadzema, which afford quite good markets for farm produce, and are the bases from which a considerable amount of transport riding is done. The railway sidings or stations are : Battlefields, Umsweswe, Gatooma, Hartley, Gadzema, Makwiro. The whole area lies in the Zambesi basin. At the western ex- tremity the altitude is but 2,650 feet and the climate hot and not healthy, but eastwards there is a gradual and continual rise till the altitude approaches 5,000 ft., where the climate is hardly to be surpassed anywhere. Population : Whites, 2,035, natives, 21,250. There are four distinct belts of land. The first, stretching between the old Charter-Salisbury Road and the Sivundazi River, a tributary of the Umfuli, is predominantly sandy soil, and sparsely wooded. The most easterly portion has many occupied and unoccupied farms, the bulk of which are well watered and possess early grass ; the westerly portion is mostly taken up by native reserves. The second belt extends for a breadth of some ten miles, running due south from Makwiro Siding to the southern border of the district. The unusual girth and height of the trees indicate the high fertility of the red loam and black humus soils. The third belt, known as the gold belt, extends beyond the railway line and has an average breadth of some 35 miles. The bush is closer than in the second-named belt and the soils similar, only they contain a slightly larger percentage of quartz. The fourth belt is low-lying sandveld, broken by small kopjes and covered by bush. Tsetse fly occurs here. Nevertheless, in this area is situated one of the most flourishing ranches in the country. Big buck and smaller game are plentiful. The most interesting relics of the past in this district are the Ancient Workings. A good example is found to the near west of Old Hartley, where a shaft 85 feet deep had been sunk, further sinking having been stopped by the influx of water, with which the ancients were apparently unable to cope. The dump they left behind contains thousands of tons yielding to-day in the mill 4 dwt. of gold, and there is ample evidence that the original reef must have yielded something like 3 oz. of gold to the ton. The ancient superficial workings extend 3TI GUIDE TO RHODESIA for 200 yards, and are now being worked by the Pioneer Syndicate. The following are some of the mining properties in the Hartley district: Cam and Motor, Giant, Battlefields, Heroine, George, Shepherds, Dalny 1 W, Whistlecock 1 W, Cheshire Cat, Brilliant, Mabel's Luck, Washington, Pomposo, Golden Valley, Sid, Goldmore, Pickstone, Glencairn No. 3, Owl, Eiffel Blue, Acorn, Mayflower, Warthog, Blue Rock, Glas- gow, New Found Out, Crown No. 2, Luke, Etna, Dragon, Concession Hill, Rover, Seigneury, First Venture, Pioneer, Juno, Togo 2, Garnbrook, Tea, Togo and Dalny, Peacock, Corsilla, Kanyemba, Hollis, Mali, Guelph, Turkois, Oleander and Arlandzer, Brancepath, Eileen Alannah and Arizona, Progressive E, Amaroso, Walmer, What Cheer, Beroche. Moliere, Serena, Nada, Cee Cee, Cirl, Chance, Dwarf, Dowry, Ebenezer, Gem, Great Tontine, Glory, Houston, Kyrenia, Lawrie's Luck, Masterpiece No. 2, Midwinter, Orcus, Rosher- ville, Sallie and Globe, Venice, Valhalla. Hartley has the following sub-districts : Hartley, Makwiro, Duchess Iill, Gadzema, Gatooma, Shagari, Golden Valley, Eiffel Flats, Umsweswe, Battlefields. Battlefields Station (3,663 feet), 182 miles from Bula- wayo, 119 from Salisbury. Serves a gold mining district, in which are the Battlefields and Washington mines, near the station, and (east of the line) the Colo- rado, Hope, Crown No. 2, Express, Big Blow, and (west of the line) Cleveland, Venice, Buller, New Topaz, and What Cheer mines. The following are details of the more important mines : Battlefields.—Consists of 173 claims. First crushed in 1905, and is now worked on tribute. Owners : Battlefields (Rho- desia), Ltd.; tributors : Minaar and McArthur. Plant : two Chilian mills, 2 forward down pans, cyanide, and slimes. Output 1913, value £20,726. Washington.-Consists of 30 claims, now worked on tribute. Is opened to the fourth level. Owners : Bechuanaland Ex- ploration Co. ; tributor : I. J. Minaar. Plant : 5-stamp mill, etc. Output 1913, value £15,274. Umsweswe Tank (3,524 feet). Is on the Umsweswe River, a tributary of the Umniati River. The valley of the Umsweswe is on the gold belt, and also presents favourable prospects for farming. . 312 GUIDÊ TO RHODESIA ore (scheelite) and antimony ore also exist. Within 20 miles of the township there are 152 gravity stamps, 13 Tremain mills, four Huntingdon mills, and two Chilian mills at work. The surrounding country is also rich farming country, about 200,000 acres being now in occupation—to a great extent, it is worthy of note, by settlers who have made money at the mines and have considered this the best way of investing it. The township, which is in a healthy situation, is governed by a Sanitary Board. There is an extensive business community, and all the advantages of civil- isation. Institutions, etc. :-Anglican and Wesleyan churches, public school, post and telegraph offices, telephone exchange, hospital, nursing home, Rate- payers' Association, Chamber of Commerce, branches of the Standard Bank and the African Banking Cor- poration, Publicity Committee, Farmers' and Stock- owners' Association, Literary Society, Caledonian and Irish Associations, Sporting (Turf) Club, Golf Club, athletic and football clubs, Rifle Company (S. R. Volunteers, Eastern Division), together with two hotels and a weekly newspaper, Gatooma Mail and Mining Gazette. Population : Whites, 800 ; natives, 500. Stands for business premises range from £160 to £1,000; residen- tial plots sell from £100 upwards. There are four sub-mining districts for which Gatooma is the centre, all connected by telephone. With the principal mines in each, they are as follow :-Eiffel Flats (5 miles east) : Cam and Motor, Eileen Alannah, Eiffel Blue, Glencairn, Thistle-Etna, Second Event, Gnu. New Shagari (6 miles north-west) : Glasgow, Mali, Dreadnought, Second Event. Golden Valley (12 miles west) : Golden Valley, White Rose, Master- piece, Gem, Luke, Buffalo, Tiger, Kyrenia, Primrose, Choisel, Rouge. Shagari (18 miles north) : Turkois, Tea Reef, Whistlecock, Dalny and Togo, Warthog, Cheshire Cat, Amaroso, Brilliant, Juno, Dawn, Little Kitty, Mammoth. A township was recently surveyed at Shagari. 314 GWELO TO SALISBURY Following are further particulars of a dozen of the larger of these mines :- Brilliant.-Owned by the Mabel's Luck Syndicate ; mana- ging partner : B. McD. Stokes. Plant : 5-stamp mill, Tremain mill, grinding pan, cyanide. Output 1913, value £25,222. Cam and Motor.-Owners : Cam and Motor Mines, Ltd. ; manager, J. McDermott. Property was formerly owned and worked by “small men.' Commenced crushing under new regime January, 1914. Ore reserves 1,016,240 tons ; average value 44s. 6d. per ton. Reduction capacity, 15,000 tons per month. Employees : 70 whites, 1,100 natives. Cheshire Cat.- Situated some 30 miles south of Gatooma. Owners : Arnold and Taverner. Main shaft sunk 250 ft. Plant : 5-stamp mill, cyanide, slimes. Output 1913, value £12,407. Dreadnought.-Owner : W. E. Masters. Plant: Chilian mill, cyanide. This is said to be the most cheaply worked mine in the country, working costs being returned at 2s. 7d. per ton. The ore treated is mainly surface rubble and over- thrown reef, though several small veins have been opened up to water level. In the last quarter of 1913 practically 1,000 tons were crushed for an average value of 29s. 9d. per ton. Eiffel Blue.—Was opened up by tributors, and is now worked by the owners, Willoughby's Consolidated ; manager : G. W. V. Knight. Plant : 10-stamp mill, cyanide. Output 1913, value £32,527. Eileen Alannah.—Was opened up by tributors, and now being developed by the owners, Willoughby's Consolidated ; manager : W. Burnett. Main shaft down over 1,000 ft. Ore reserves, 250,726 tons, average value 52s. 5d. per ton. Plant with monthly capacity of 5,000 tons in course of erection. Glasgow.- Situated about six miles from Gatooma. Owned by a Salisbury company, the Glasgow Mines, Ltd.; manager: V. R. Sherwell. Plant: 5-stamp (heavy) mill, cyanide. Output 1913, value £10,893. Glencairn.-Owned by a private syndicate ; manager : A. E. Ward. Mine opened to fifth level. Plant : 2 Tremain mills. Output 1913, value £13,083. Golden Valley.-Situated 10 miles west of Gatooma Has been a consistent producer for over ten years. Is developed to a depth of 600 ft. Owners : Golden Valley, Ltd. ; tributor : J. Mack. Output 1913, value £17,247. Tea.-Owners : Central Mines Investment Corporation and 315 GUIDE TO RHODESIA E. E. Homan. Is opened to the third level. Commenced crushing 1912. Output 1913, value £9,061. Thistle-Etna.-Owners : Thistle-Etna Gold Mines, Ltd., represented by Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co.; manager : A. W. Sticklem. Principal mine is the Etna, 16 miles east of Gatooma. Plant: Chilian mill, sands, slimes. Output 1913, value £58,131. White Rose. ---Owner : J. Mack. Property being devel- oped. Trial crushing showed the value of the ore to be 80s. 11d. per ton. From Gatooma Station the line passes between two ranges of hills, but the country opens up later towards the east. Several farms with large mealie plantations lie on either side of the rail. To the north and on the west is seen · Mt. Jnitjemutje (4,194 feet) and on the east the Hartley Hills (4,200 feet). The upper waters of the Suri Suri River, a tributary of the Umfuli River, are crossed five miles before reaching Hartley. Hartley Station (3,900 feet), 244 miles from Bulawayo, 77 from Salisbury. The township is on a rise of land about 1,000 yards east of the station. It is the headquarters of the Magistrate, Mining Commissioner, Native Commissioner, and Police of the Hartley district. Hartley is frequently called New Hartley in contradistinction to Old Hartley, which was the original settlement, and founded in 1890. In 1901 the township was removed to its present situ- ation, which is 18 miles west, and on a site selected by Mr. Rhodes. The town does a large trade with the surrounding mining areas, which extend E.S.E. for 14 miles, where is Duchess Hill post office. There is a daily coach service between Hartley and Duchess Hill. In the vicinity of Duchess Hill are the Shepherds, Pickstone, and Concession Hill gold mines. The affairs of the township are directed by a Village Management Board. Institutions, etc. : Anglican church, post and telegraph offices and telephone exchange, schools, hospital, Chamber of Commerce, Sports Club, whose grounds are excellently adapted for cricket, lawn tennis, hockey, football, golf, croquet ; 316 GUIDE TO RHODESIA for the most part consists of granite soil, but red and black soils are found in parts, as also vleis of heavy black soil. It is excellent ranching country and well watered. Average rainfall, about 29 inches. The price of land ranges from 5s. to 12s. 6d. an acre. The staple industry is gold mining the principal mine being the well-known Giant. Other mines : Dwarf, New Found Out, Giant Neighbour, Lone Star and Elvington, Blue Rock. Population : Whites, about 200 ; natives, 1,500. There is a small township with post and telegraph office and hotel. At the Giant Mine is another hotel, River Scenery: Between Hartley and Gadzema. equipped for theatrical and other entertainments, and also a building which is used as a school and for Anglican church services. A Rifle Company of the S.R. Volunteers (Eastern Division) has been formed. A motor-car road connects Gadzema with the Golden Kopje Mine in Lomagundi District. This runs through the well-known farm of Mr. J. J. Reynard. Near the road can be seen some fine Bushman paintings. The following are further mining details : Giant.—Is i} miles from Gadzema Station. Owners : Giant Mines of Rhodesia, Ltd.; manager : R. J. Allwright. Plant : 30 stamps and 2 tube mills. Commenced crushing 318 GWELO TO SALISBURY in 1905. Output 1913, value £139,476 ; total production, £789,348. New Found Out.-Owners : New Found Out Mines, Ltd. Property still under development. Tonnage developed, 51,000 tons, average value 12:3 dwt. Proposed reduction plant, 3,000 tons capacity monthly. Blue Rock.—This was pegged as far back as 1892. Ow- ners : Exploring Lands and Minerals Co.; tributors : Ells- moor and Goodyer. From Gadzema the line runs on ascending country to Makwiro. Makwiro Station (4,306 feet), 253 miles from Bula- wayo, 48 from Salisbury. Makwiro (Makwira : “ The ascents”) is essentially a farming district. Very few suitable farms are vacant. At the station are an hotel and stores. At five miles north of Makwiro the line descends into the wide and extensive valley of the Hunyani River. Norton Siding (4,499 feet), 276 miles from Bulawayo, 26 from Salisbury. Is just west of the Hunyani River. The Umvukwe Hills, Mt. Hampden, and Marimba Hill are prominent in the landscape. From Norton Siding the line descends to the Hunyani River, at a point near the drift on the old Bulawayo- Salisbury coach road, near which are known Bushman paintings. The Hunyani rises south of the line some five miles west of Marandellas Station, and joins the Zambesi 17 miles east of Zumbo, having in all a course of some 210 miles and intersecting the districts of Marandellas, Hartley, Salisbury, and Loma- gundi. On crossing the river the railway leaves Hartley District and enters that of Salisbury or Goromonzi ; to Salisbury there is an ascent of almost 500 feet. some well- Marimba Siding (4,606 feet), 291 miles from Bula- wayo, 11 from Salisbury. Derives its name from the hill Marimba, which lies seven miles away, north-east. Numerous well-developed farms, with substantial farm- steads and residences, are seen on all sides, extending to 319 GUIDE TO RHODESIA considerable distances. As the Salisbury Commonage is reached, several market gardens are seen. Salisbury Station (4,825 feet), 301 miles from Bula- wayo, 374 from Beira. Is the junction for the branch lines to Eldorado and Shamva, known respectively as the Lomagundi and Mazoe extensions. Salisbury is the capital of Southern Rhodesia. Hotels : Queen's, Commercial, Avenue, Langham, Empire, etc. Hotel omnibuses meet all trains. 320 XXIX,--SALISBURY (OR GOROMONZI) DISTRICT AND TOWN This district, which includes the town of Salisbury, is bounded on the north by Mazoe District, on the west by Lomagundi District, on the south by the Hartley and Marandellas districts, and on the east by Mrewa District. Its area is approximately 2,188 square miles. The Bulawayo-Beira railway traverses it from east to west, the Salisbury-Mazoe railway northwards, and the Salisbury-Lomagundi railway towards the north- west. The altitude varies but little, being generally from 4,780 feet to 5,320 feet. Mount Hampden, the original objective of the Pioneer Column, has an elevation of 5,247 feet. Average rainfall : At Salisbury 31.05 inches, at Chishawasha, 39:37, at Borrowdale 35.97, at Westridge 30·81. District throughout is splendidly watered and timbered. Large granite hills are to be seen almost everywhere, and the scenery is very fine. Prin- cipal hills : Mount Hampden, Domborembudzi, Sin beramombi, Mumurgwi, Jeta, N'gomakurira, Shanguri, and Goromonzi. Principal rivers : Hunyani, which runs within 12 miles of Salisbury, and on which there are magnificent stretches of water suitable for boat- ing ; Inyague, which forms the eastern boundary of the district, rises near Marandellas, and flows in a northerly direction ; Gwebi, Poorti, Chinyika, Mabfen, M'tenji, M'vindzi, and Makabusi. Good fishing is to be had in all the larger rivers, the fish caught being chiefly tiger fish and bream ; the best fishing months are November, December, March April. Trout have been introduced into the Gwebi River by Mr. Zimmer- man, of Darwendale Farm, and are said to be thriving. Salisbury is a growing mining district. The princi- pal mines are those of the Planet-Arcturus group, to which a branch line is being built from the main Salisbury- Beira railway ; this line will be ten miles long, and the 321 L General View of Salisbury. 324 GUIDE TO RHODESIA £3 per month, exclusive of food. The native location is situated to the south of the town, and occupies an area of 50 acres. Salisbury is the collecting and distributing centre for an extensive stretch of country embracing the gold- fields of Lomagundi, Hartley, Shamva, Mazoe, and Enterprise, and the farming districts adjacent to them, and has' consequently a big commercial community. Some very fine blocks as business premises have been erected, mostly along Manica Road and First Street, and the thoroughfares leading directly into them. The most notable buildings are those of the Standard Bank, the Board of Executors, and Union Buildings. The stores are well stocked and their management is enterprising. Rents on the principal streets range from £15 to £50 per month for a shop or store ; office rents are from £3 to £8 per room. There is the nucleus of an industrial centre in the southern part of the town, where a brewery, two large firms of building contractors (one, the branch of a London “house ") and an extensive tobacco warehouse and sorting shed have been estab- lished. The offices of the heads of most Government Depart- ments are in Salisbury, including the Post Office and the Agricultural Department. The town is also the headquarters of the Rhodesian Native Labour Bureau. The Legislative Council sits in Salisbury, which is also a centre for Mashonaland of the High Court of Justice. The Municipality maintains a Public Gardens covering 50 acres, where band performances take place weekly, and frequently more often. An obelisk is erected here to the memory of those citizens who lost their lives in the Native wars. Two other open spaces have been reserved for parks, but as yet they have not been developed'; one is opposite Charter House ; the other, which takes in a beautifully wooded rise known as Hartman Hill, is on the Commonage to the north. Places of worship are maintained by the English Church (Cathedral), the Presbyterian Church, Roman Catholic Church, Wesleyan Church, Dutch Reformed Church 326 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Umsururu Siding (4,831 feet), 23 miles from Salisbury. Is another centre of a group of important farms. As the Gwebi River is crossed, the railway leaves the Goromonzi district and enters that of Loma- gundi. Lomagundi District is the most northerly in Southern Rhodesia, and its area, roughly, 15,000 square miles, larger than that of any other. Its boundaries are natural-on the north a frontage of some 180 miles along the Zambesi River, on the west the Sanyati and Umfuli rivers, on the south the Umsengezi River and the Anglo-Portuguese frontier. About a third of it is low veld, the altitude being from 1,000 to 1,200 ft. above sea-level; this area is divided from the southern portion of the district by the Rukowakowona Mountains, a broken range of hills many miles in breadth, running east and west from the Kariba Gorge to Darwin District. The greater part of the high veld is from 3,500 to 4,200 ft. above sea-level and possesses every variety of soil, with a temperate sub-tropical climate well adapted to European occupation. The temperature does not often rise above 90° in the shade during the summer. There are old workings of exceptional size all over the district, and many interesting discoveries of ancient imple- ments have been made, notably a hollow stone hand crusher of presumably native workmanship. Considerable prospec- ting was done in the early days of the Charter, and such properties as the Eldorado, Ayrshire, Eureka, Rowdy Boys, Golden Kopje, Herald, Silver, Sheba, Celtic, Hibernia, and Alaska (copper) were pegged, all on large ancient workings. The Ayrshire, in its time a famous mine, started crushing in 1900, and in 1903 had 60 stamps at work. The owning company constructed a narrow-gauge railway to it from Salis- bury in 1901. In 1908 the mine was closed down. In 1904 the discovery of what was thought to be banket in the Eldorado area led to the “ Banket" rush and the pegging of miles of country. Since that time several properties have been brought to the producing stage, notably the Wellcgo, Kia Ora, Shankuru (2 stamps), Bonanza, all near Banket Junction; the Vulcan, near Eldorado ; the Linnet, near Sipolilo ; the D Troop, on the Angwa; Golden Kopje, Colorado, St. Ives (5 stamps) on the west of the Hunyani, Other properties : Broken Hill (10 stamps), Lone Hill, Gella (3 stamps), Beccles, Devonshire, Norman, Persia, Tornado. Gondia, Bonanza, Montrose, May. Several alluvial claims 330 Sinoia Caves : The Underground Pool. 336 SALISBURY TO ELDORADO Sinoia Township. Leaving Eldorado by road, the white roofs of Sinoia can be seen in the distance at the head of a long, wooded valley. Passing the Rhodesia Trading Company's store, the road crosses the Hunyani River just below the Hunyani Falls. During the summer the Falls and the surrounding foliage make a picture of great beauty. In the township are lo ted the various Government offices and buildings, including the hospital and the central police camp, and also hotel, post and telegraph office, several stores and a pharmacy, with the residences beyond. Facing the township on the north-west lies the British South Africa Company's Land Settlement Farm, and one and a half miles to the east is situated the principal depôt of the Rhodesian Native Labour Bureau, where natives from the north are medically examined and, after registration, dis- tributed to their employers. From Sinoia north, through a narrow pass in the Hun- yani Ridge, a pretty drive leads to the vast plateau known as the Umboe Flats, on which a large number of farms have been taken up. At Umboe (13 miles) is a store where board and lodging can be obtained. The Sinoia Caves lie five miles west of the township. Further west (12} miles) is the Golden Kopje Mine. On the Angwa River, 8 miles out, is a store. At Golden Kopje there are an hotel and several stores, and a post and telegraph office. At 93 miles north-west of Sinoia is the Urungwe sub-station, where an official of the Native Department administers the large tract of country lying to the north- west of the district. There is another Native Depart- ment sub-station at Sipolilo (police camp and store), 70 miles north-east of Sinoia ; from here the remainder of the northern portion of the district is controlled. At Kanyemba on the Zambesi, opposite Feira, is the Frontier Police Post and the most northerly camp of the Rhodesian Native Labour Bureau. Golden Kopje Mine. This property really consists of two distinct mines, the Golden Kopje and Union Jack. They are situated some 17 miles north of Eldorado Station, to which a 337 GUIDE TO RHODESIA connecting light railway is being built. Property is being developed on a large scale. Ore developed, 310,746 tons ; average value 8:01 dwt. A plant to treat 10,000 tons monthly is being designed. Owners : Golden Kopje Proprietary Mines, Ltd., represented by the Gold Fields Rhodesian Development Co.; manager : C. K. Digby-Jones. Linnet Mine.—Situated near the Sipolilo Police Camp. Consists of 20 claims, which are worked on tribute. Plant : 7 stamps. Output 1913, value £7,427. Owners : London and Rhodesian Mining and Land Co.; tributor : A. L. R. Morkel. SINOIA CAVES, The following description of the Sinoia Caves is taken by permission from Vol. X. of the Proceedings of the Rhodesia Scientific Association, to which it was con- tributed by Messrs. F. P. Mennell, F.G.S., and A. E. V. Zealley, A.R.C.S. : Near Sinoia Caves is a large vlei encircled with high kopjes, some of which, if not all, are of white crystalline limestone, which also is the rock of the vlei. The large cave is situated in the vlei, a crater-like swallow-hole about 100 feet across and 150 feet deep, with nearly vertical walls, in places overhanging slightly. It is practically circular, but is slightly elongated in the direction of a large joint or fault which determines the formation and direction of the passage by which it may be entered. The cave is a true swallow-hole—that is, it has been formed by solution of the limestone. Percolating water has been especially active along the fault-a plan of weakness which is often a potent factor in deter- mining geological features. The entrance is 20 feet below the general surface of the ground, in a depression slightly elongated north and south. The passage measures 165 feet along the floor, and descends at first at an angle of about 40°. The 100 feet from the north end of the passage towards the entrance is not so steep. It has a straight course, and its magnetic bearing is 20° and 200°, that is 20° east of magnetic north and west of south (practically north and south). From the end of the passage to the edge of the 338 SINOIA CAVES pool is another 100 feet (measured along the ground). This descends at an angle of 52° or more, to a pool of the most beautifully clear water of a wonderful blue colour. The authors were told that one of the police at Sinoia once sounded its depth and found it to be something over 300 feet. The pool is irregularly rectangular in shape. At the north end there is a fine arch with numerous stalactites, one of which is probably twenty or thirty feet long. In the passage small stalactites also are seen. The passage varies in width from about six to 20 feet or more. The pool is at the north end of the cavity ; the south edge reaches to about the centre of the swallow-hole. No outlet is ascertainable, but the water is reputed to stand at a constant level throughout the year. It is full of water-lilies at the margin, and fish and frogs also live in it. Trees growing at the edge of the swallow-hole send their roots down the crater-like walls, almost to the surface of the water. The top of the passage is 4,050 feet above sea-level at Cape Town. The top of the swallow-hole is 4,070 feet. At the edge of the pool the reading is 3,920 feet. At the north end of the passage (under the south edge of the swallow-hole) it is 3,980 feet. Opening into the roof of the passage, three small swallow-holes exist. The first is situated 50 feet from the entrance, and the second 100 feet along the passage. Close to the second is another orifice coming into the roof at an angle. At the surface, the first swallow-hole is lens-shaped ; its size is about 15 by 5 feet. The second is less lenticular; its size is about 4 by 10 feet. These two enter the roof vertically. The third hole is circular, 10 feet or so in diameter, and is situated about 20 feet to the east of the second. It enters the roof at an angle of 60° or These swallow-holes are in small circular rocky depressions. Just beyond the last two sink-holes is a large irregular chamber on the east side of the passage. It is said that during the native rebellion of 1896 the Chief Chenoia, after whom the district is named, occupied this chamber. more. 339 GUIDE TO RHODESIA be seen excellent examples of old alluvial gold workings ; these are mentioned in some of the old records of the 16th and 17th centuries. Remains of old stone build- ings are by no means rare. Farms have not as yet been taken up in any number, but experiments that have so far been carried out show that citrus fruits grow to perfection. Game of all kind abounds, from elephant and rhino., which generally frequent the northern bank of the Mazoe River, down to all kinds of small buck. Lions are fairly common and hippo. are to be seen in the large pools. MOUNT DARWIN DISTRICT. This district comprises an area of 180 miles from east to west and about 80 miles from north to south, and is, next to Lomagundi District, the most northerly part of Southern Rhodesia. It is bounded on the north by Portuguese Zambesia, on the west by Lomagundi District, on the south by Mazoe District, on the east by Mrewa District, and by a portion of Mtoko District on the extreme east. The country is undulating for the most part, and covered with bush, while the eastern and northern portions are very dry. North of the camp of Mount Darwin, and at 25 miles distance, is a range of hills, the Mavura Donna, which run east and west, practically joining the Umvukwe Range in the Lomagundi district at right angles, but actually separated from it by the River Msengesi, which runs from south to north. There are several large and important rivers. The Umkumvura rises near Mount Kanalumbwe (3,280 feet), at the eastern end of the Mavura Donna Range, and runs along the northern boundary for about 60 miles into the Msengesi, a tribu- tary of the Zambesi. The Msengesi rises in the Matusa Donna Range and flows along the western boundary for about 40 miles. The Mazoe River runs along the eastern boundary for about 70 miles. The Ruia River, which rises in the Umvukwe Mountains, flows from the south-western corner of the district through the 346 Photo byl (F. C. Bellamy, Salisbury. (1) Looking North from Shamva Hill, (2) In the Darwin District. 348 SALISBURY TO SHAMVA centre to the north-eastern border, near Mount Gungwa. Each of the rivers named has a large number of tribu- taries within the district. The official headquarters of the district are at Mount Darwin, which is six miles to the north of the hill of that name, 45 miles from Bindura railway station, and 106 from Salisbury. Officials : Magistrate, Native Com- missioner, and Police. Hotel and two stores. Rain- fall, 28 inches. Population : Whites, 32 ; natives, 1,600. Mount Darwin (4,850 feet) is one of a triangle of hills named by Mr. F. C. Selous, the others being Mount Thackeray (4,330 feet) to the west, and Mount Kipling (3,840 feet) to the north. Most of the unoccupied land suitable for farming is on granite veld and heavily bushed. Rock paintings, but not distinct ones, have been found in the district. Game is abundant, and comprises fifteen varieties, viz.., rhino., hippo., buffalo (these are in a fly belt), eland, koodoo, roan, sable, tsessibe, water-buck, zebra, impala, bush-buck, reedbuck, duiker, and grysbuck; and also lions and leopards. The recent extension of the railway to Shamva will have a most beneficent result on the exploitation of the district. Hitherto, both mining and farming operations have been greatly limited by the cost of transport. Several gold mining properties have been located, but only three are at present being worked. Among the mines are : The Chin (5 stamps), Honest (8 stamps), Mickey (2 stamps), Ajax, Doubtful and Lowland, Fusi, and Lion. 349 XXXII, -SALISBURY TO UMTALI AND BEIRA FOR THE EAST COAST ROUTE TO ENGLAND THE line to Umtali and Beira from Salisbury runs in an easterly direction. Immediately beyond the Salis- bury Commonage are the Epworth Mission (Wesleyan) to the south of the line, and the Chisawasha Mission (Roman Catholic) to the north. The old Umtali- Salisbury coach road runs along the north side of the line until the Ruwa River, a tributary of the Hunyan River flowing south, is reached. Ruwa Siding (5,201 feet), 14 miles from Salisbury. Is on high ground on the east side of the river, and the centre of a farming district. Will be the junction of the branch line to the Planet-Arcturus mines. Bromley Siding (5,230 feet), 29 miles from Salisbury. Is used by several farms. The Goromonzi Native Com- missioner's Camp and Police Station lie to the north- east. Between Bromley and Marandellas all the farm land south of the rail occupied, and also several farms on the north side. Here the railway leaves Salisbury or Goromonzi District and enters Marandellas District. Marandellas District is about 40 miles between extreme points from east to west, and 65 miles from north to south. Is bounded on the west by Salisbury and Hartley districts, on the south by Charter District, on the north by Mrewa District, and on the east by Mrewa and Makoni districts. It is essentially a farming district, there being no mines. Prac- tically all the land save the Shoshwi and Wedza native reserves has been •surveyed for farm holdings. Average rainfall 35.96 inches. Population : Whites, 293; natives, 18,015. The district is divided by the railway line into Marandellas North and Marandellas South, South of the line it consists 350 SALISBURY TO UMTALI of undulating plains of granitic origin with, in most cases, perennial streams running through the valleys, the slopes being fairly well-wooded. Principal rivers : Sabi, Rusawi, and Weinimbi. On the Sabi River is situated the block of farms com- prising the Land Settlement Farms, where tobacco planting, citrus culture, and cattle ranching are carried out on a fairly large scale. The farms are under the supervision of Mr. H. Kay Scorrer, a farmer of wide Rhodesian experience. He is assisted by a manager and several assistants, besides a number of learners, of whom there are always a number in residence. The possibilities of the district have perhaps been most strikingly demonstrated at Munga Farm. This farm, originally the property of Messrs. Henderson and Walker, is in extent about 1,500 morgen. After producing several crops of tobacco, the last of which was sold for over £5,000, it was taken over by a syndicate for a sum approximating to £10,000. This syndicate succeeded in floating a company with a capital of £35,000 to take over the property ; and the company is now under the management of one of the former owners, Mr. Henderson. Near to Marandellas Station is Uplands Estate, on which the Tobacco Company of Rhodesia and South Africa is running a thriving tobacco plantation under the management of Mr. McLachlan. Something like 200 acres are planted, and there are 12 flue barns. Ostriches are found wild in many parts, a fact which is turning farmers' attention to the possibilities of breeding ostriches on a commercial scale. There are numerous wet vleis on which green food could be grown the whole year round. There are two farmers' associations--the Marandellas Farmers' and Tobacco Growers' Association, and the Man- gwendi Association. Marandellas Station (5,446 feet), 45 miles from Salisbury and 125 miles from Umtali. Is the headquarters of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, and Police for the district, and of the local Rifle Company of the S. R. Volunteers (Eastern Division). Hotel, stores, Farmers' Hall, where the meetings of the Marandellas Farmers' Association are held. The land between Marandellas and Headlands forms the division of the watersheds of the Mazoe (north) and Sabi (south) rivers. After leaving Marandellas Station 351 GUIDE TO RHODESIA the line runs into a region of granite kopjes. Bushman paintings have been discovered on rocks in this vicinity. Macheke Station (5,042 feet), 66 miles from Salisbury. Is the nearest railway depot for Mrewa (40 miles), Mtoko (55 miles), and the Monomotapa Concessions (100 miles). All the surveyed farms within 40 miles of the railway have been taken up. In many cases good- sized orchards of deciduous and citrus fruits have been planted, and are doing wonderfully well. Bushman paintings are found in several places, notably within 100 yards of the railway station, on the south side. : Mrewa District is about 110 miles from north to south, and varies from 20 to 35 miles from east to west. Approxi- mately it comprises 2,600 square miles, half being taken up by native reserves. It lies on the north side of the Salisbury- Beira railway line ; and on the north-west it is bounded by the Mazoe River, on the west by the Inyague River, and on the east by the Nyadiri River. At its most southerly point, near Macheke, it has an elevation of 5,141 feet and the land of the entire district falls gradually from this point towards the north-eastern extremity, where the altitude is 1,800 ft. Population : Whites 83, natives 22,871. The best and quickest way of reaching Mrewa is via Macheke railway station, from which runs a good road right through the centre of the district—the portion occupied by the farms -to its northern end. Six miles inland is entered bush country, having open valleys and running streams, which is typical of the whole district for thirty miles to the north. All farms on and near the road have been taken up. The Native Commissioner's and Police Camps are situated at the junction of the roads from Macheke, Salisbury, and Mtoko, being 60 miles from Salisbury and 37 from Macheke and Mtoko. Very little mining work has so far been done. There are a number of old workings along the Mazoe River and in Fungwe, all of which have been pegged, but the distance from a railway and difficulties of transport seem to have kept back development work on any large scale. The completion of the railway to Shamva has brought this part of the district nearer a railway terminus, and should give an impetus to local industry. 352 SALISBURY TO UMTALI Several sets of Bushman paintings have been located in the district, one set on a granite mountain about four miles north of Mrewa being the largest and best collection. Mtoko District adjoins Mrewa District to the north- east, through which it is reached by road from Macheke Station. A description of Mtokos is therefore given here. Mtoko District is, roughly, bounded on the north by the Mazoe River, on the east by the Anglo-Portuguese boundary, on the south by the Ruenya River, and on the west by the Nyadiri River. The district is hilly, with in- numerable well-watered valleys and stretches of open veld and bush. It has a fall in altitude from 3,600 feet in the southern part to 2,100 feet in the northern part. Besides the large rivers which form the boundaries, there are a number of other perennial rivers. The Mtoko Camp, 25 miles from Macheke, is the headquarters of the Magistrate and Native Commissioner for the district. Population : Whites, 32; natives, 20,510. The following gold mining properties are being actively developed :Brilliant, Middle, Sequesa, New Full Back, Radnor, Victory, Alexandra, and Koodoo. In the east, bordering on Portuguese territory, is the noted Kaiser Wilhelm gold belt, which runs in a westerly direction through Monomotapa Concessions, the Makaha Valley, and eventually into the Darwin district. Makoni District is intersected by the railway from north- west to south-east. The railway sidings serving it are Headlands, Rusapi, Inyazura, Malenje, and Odzi. It has an area of 3,791 square miles ; it extends 85 miles from north to south, and averages about 35 miles from east to west. It is bounded by the following districts : Marandellas and Mrewa on the west, Charter on the south, Umtali on the south-east, Inyanga on the east, and Mtoko on the north. It is watered by large rivers and streams, many of them peren- nial. Principal rivers : Macheke (western boundary), Mafuri and Ruenya (north-western and north-eastern boundaries), Odzi (south-eastern boundary), Lesapi (Rusapi), Nyagadzi, all of which have numerous tributaries. The country is irregular and broken, but around Headlands and to the south-west it is more open and undulating, and is well watered. Rainfall, 34 inches. Population : Whites, 282 ; natives, 21,179. Makoni District is at present unprospected for minerals, and remains to-day a virgin field for the geologist. At 353 M GUIDE TO RHODESIA Headlands copper has been located, and on the Odzi River there is some gold mining, but as yet it is in an early stage of development. Good farming land is found in many parts, but not in large areas ; the country is well suited for cattle-breeding. Farmers are carrying out a certain amount of afforestation. Game, large and small, is plentiful, and the north of the district is a veritable paradise for sportsmen. Lions and leopards are a common nuisance. The presence of wild ostriches on the high veld suggests that ostrich farming might be carried on in such parts with success. Headlands Siding (5,146 feet), 87 miles from Salisbury. The siding takes its name from a prominent hill, eight miles to the south-east, that was known in pioneer days as Headlands. Near Headlands Hill was an old posting station on the coach road from Umtali to Salisbury. Before reaching Matinidza Siding, and close to the line on the east at 2744-mile peg, is an obelisk, which was erected to the memory of Laurence van der Byl, who settled at this place immediately after the Occupation, with a party of over a score of young men, who thus constituted the first Farm Settlement in Rhodesia. Matinidza Siding (4,851 feet), 100 miles from Salisbury. Is the railway centre for several large farms. Beyond the siding the line crosses the Rusapi River, a tributary of the Macheke River ; on the west side are the Rusapi Falls. Rusapi Station (4,615 feet), 108 miles from Salisbury. Is the chief business place in Makoni District, and the headquarters of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, Police, and Veterinary Officer, and also of the Rusapi Farmers' Association, and the Rusapi Rifle Company of the S. R. Volunteers (Eastern Division). Hotel; stores. The station is also the depot for Inyanga District. Inyanga District is almost 100 miles from north to south, and from 25 to 35 miles from east to west. Is bounded on the east by Portuguese East Africa, on the north-west and 354 Inyanga Ruins : Shelter Pit Entrance. 356 SALISBURY TO UMTALI west by the Ruenya River and by Makoni District, and on the south by Umtali District. Being in its central part very mountainous, it contains the sources of many rivers flowing east, west, and north, the most important being the Pungwe, flowing south-east. The soil is generally poor, except in the valleys along the Gaerisi River. It is, however, capable of artificial improvement, and irrigation is possible almost anywhere. Average rainfall, 41 inches. The headquarters of the Magistrate, Native Commissioner, post and telegraph services, and Police are at Inyanga Camp, which is 64 miles from Rusapi Siding. Population : Whites, 100; natives, 18,000. Owing to the difficulties of transport, the attention of the farmers is directed to the raising of cattle, merino sheep, and goats. The prices received for wool compare favourably with those paid for Australian wool. Many of the first settlers planted orchards, and a considerable return is now being derived from them. Inyanga apples are famous throughout Rhodesia. The most notable farms are those comprising the Rhodes Estate, of 100,000 acres, which is devoted to ranching (cattle and sheep) and orchards, apples growing to perfection. The farms are celebrated for their large flocks of merinos. No expense has been spared in order to prove Inyanga's suitability for stock raising and fruit growing. In parts big game is plentiful, and the rivers flowing to- wards the Zambesi are full of fish. INYANGA MOUNTAINS AND THEIR ROMANCE. Next to Great Zimbabwe the prehistoric remains of Inyanga rank chief among the monuments of Rhodesia. The Inyanga Range is a wild, mountainous country rising to 10,000 feet above sea-level, and an area of some 60 by 40 miles of it is covered with the remains of buildings erected in remote times by some long-forgotten people. On the summits of the hills are stone forts, possibly a hundred of such structures, while up the sides are stone terraces. Round their lower flanks run old aqueducts, each one two or three miles in length. On the downs in the valleys, and on the lower flanks of the hills, are very many hundreds of stone-lined pits, and also in the valleys at every fifty yards. These present most obvious evidences of occu- pations of teeming populations. The majority of the pits are either dilapidated or almost completely filled with silted soil. They are from 9 feet to 357 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 12 feet in depth, with diameters varying from 16 feet to 30 feet, and are approached by covered passages lined with stones and leading to the bottom of the pits ; they are mainly underground. Perhaps the feature which most strikes the visitor is the hill-terraces. These most probably were used for agricultural, horticultural, and arboricultural purposes. Similar terraces are to be found in South Arabia. The aqueducts, running from artificial dams in the mountain streams, and crossing from hill to hill in a most remarkable manner, were evidently constructed by people who thoroughly understood irrigation work elsewhere, for their levels are beautifully and exactly carried out, in spite of all natural obstacles, and not an inch of fall is wasted throughout the whole length of their courses. Modern engineers inspect them and marvel. The aqueducts are about 16 inches to 24 inches wide, and about 2 feet in depth. They have no paving or built sides. The unravelling of the mystery of the origin of these buildings and works and the examination of their remains will provide abundant work for scientists during generations yet to come. The style of building is entirely different from that of Zimbabwe and the older ruins of the country. Evi- dences of the Zimbabwe ceremonial are absent, as also of any gold ornaments. The area was no doubt cultivated very considerably, the aqueducts being always associated with the horticultural terraces, as are also the pits, which at so great an elevation of exposed country afforded shelter for the labourers during inclement seasons. Many of the trees and plants found on this terraced area—vines, lemons, figs, cotton—are not indigenous to South-east Africa. Most are of Indian and Arabian origin. Just as it is now considered that the ancient Asiatic gold exploiters mployed Indian labour in working the mines of Rhodesia, so it is equally reasonable to believe that the labour so extensively employed in cultivating the Inyanga district was also recruited by Arabs from India. After leaving Rusapi Station, and five miles before reaching Inyazura Station, the line crosses the Inyama- pamberi River, a tributary of the Rusapi, flowing south- west. Inyazura Siding (3,995 feet), 122 miles from Salisbury. Serves a farming district. At the Tank, and on the east, is seen Marengi Hill, conspicuous by its height, precipi- 358 SALISBURY TO UMTALI tous sides, and castellated summit. A short distance beyond the siding the line crosses the Inyazura River, flowing south-west to join the Macheke River. At five miles before reaching Malenje Siding, the line crosses Tsungwesi River, flowing south-west to join the Sabi River. Malenje Siding (3,713 feet), 141 miles from Salisbury. Is on the Clare Estate, and is the centre for other estates and farms. The N’tande Range commences just beyond Malenje and runs for 30 miles in a south-westerly direction as far as the Sabi River, at the border of Charter District. This range is one broad band of huge hills and is a great feature on the landscape both at this extremity and also when seen from the Charter District. Just north of Odzi Siding, and close to the east side of the line, is Mount Malenje, characterised by its massiveness and height. On this hill are some Bushman paintings. Odzi Siding (3,147 feet), 151 miles from Salisbury, 19 from Umtali. Is on the Odzi River, which flows south to join the Sabi River, and serves both a mining and farming district. Hotel ; stores. Odzi is to be the junc- tion of the new line to Umvuma. This railway will open up a vast area of new rich farming country, the development of which should lead to the expansion of Odzi as a business centre. West of the siding is Mount Chinoia. Between 10 and 16 miles south of Odzi is Mount Mepembi, on which are many Bushman paintings; there are also paintings on all hills to the south and west of it. The Quagga Mine lies 13 miles south of the siding. Crush- ing commenced in January, 1913. Output 1913, value £6,605. Width of reef 30 feet ; there are 300,000 tons of ore in sight. Plant: 5-stamp mill; capacity 1,000 tons of ore per month. A Chilian mill is to be erected. Owners : Quagga Syndicate. On crossing the Odzi River the railway passes from Makoni District into Umtali District. Umtali District is bounded on the east by Portuguese East Africa--the stone cairns of this frontier form the eastern 359 SALISBURY TO UMTALI are the Rezende (and Penhalonga), Rezende D.B. 2, Contact, Kent, Liverpool, Pilgrim, Quagga, Red Wing, Two Sisters, Umtali, Umtali A., Elgin, Mecca, King's Daughter D.B., Champion, Arthur, Bessie, Clutha, Duntocher, Invincia D.B., Monte Carlo, Monte Rosa, Montezuma, Odzi, Toronto, Win. chester. The stamps exceed 200 in the aggregate. Small game is plentiful. There are evidences of ancient occupation in many parts. There are miles and miles of water furrows similar to those at Inyanga—a fine specimen is to be seen on the Umtali commonage—and also hundreds of stone-lined pits, while there are many mortars sunk in solid rock. * Excellent examples of these mortars, which were probably used for pounding gold quartz, are to be seen close to the Club at Umtali. A square monument has been discovered at Masen- jiri, just south of Umtali ; and many phallic emblems, which are now in museums, have been unearthed. Just north of Odzi Siding is the Umtali River, which there joins the Odzi. The Umtali River rises in Penhalonga at Mount Snuta, and along its banks are several gold mines, among them the Cairn Dhu, Clutha, and King's Daughter. King's Daughter Mine.—Is worked on tribute. Owners : United Rhodesia Gold Fields, Ltd. Tributors: Umtali Waterfall Syndicate. Plant: 5 stamps, slimes. Output, 1913, value £7,193. Grand Reef Siding (3,332 feet), 155 miles from Salis- bury, 15 from Umtali. Serves as the depot for gold mines and farms. Umtali Station (3,552 feet), 170 miles from Salisbury, 204 from Beira. Is the frontier station of the rail- way before the line enters Portuguese East Africa. Hotels : Royal, Cecil, Masonic, King's Arms. Hotel omnibuses meet all trains. The town is situated on rising ground between the station and the foot of the Inyamutseri Range to the north, and is enclosed on all sides by lofty mountain ranges. The climate is exceedingly healthy. Popu- lation, 800 Whites. Umtali is the chief commercial centre for the mines and farms of the whole district. There are large railway repairing workshops to the south 361 -- General View of Umtali. 363 \Photo byl (Strachan & Co., Umtali. Umtali : (1) Main Street. (2) Turner Memorial Library. 364 Umtali to Beira : (1) In the Amatongas Forest. (2) Street Scene in Beira. 369 Telegrams and Cables }"NOTTOC." P.O. Boxes 24 & 48, BEIRA, P.E, AFRICA Cotton & Downie [R, S. COTTON JW. DOWNIE.] BEIRA AND AT BULAWAYO and SALISBURY. Box 322. Box 1. Clearing, Forwarding, Shipping, and General Agents. LARGE BONDEN WAREHOUSES for General Merchandise, AND HEAVY MACHINERY DEPOT with Private Railway Siding. CORRESPONDENCE INVITED. Prompt attention to all Commissions. REFERENCES : Any South African Bank, London or South Africa. CONSTITUTION ALL BRITISH THE RHODESIAN RAILWAY SYSTEM Trains leave Elisabethville every Sunday and Thursday, and Victoria Falls every Saturday and Tuesday, arriving in Bulawayo on Sundays and Wednesdays. Bulawayo and Salisbury. Trains leave Bulawayo for Gwelo, Gatooma, and Salisbury every Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. Journey occupies : To Gwelo, 6 h. 5 m.; Gatooma, 11 h. 58 m. ; Salisbury, 18 h. Fares : To Gwelo, £1 3s. 6d. first class, 17s. 6d. second ; to Gatooma, £2 ls. 9d. first class, £1 11s. 3d. second ; to Salisbury, £3 ls. first class, £2 5s. 9d. second. There are also five trains from Salisbury to Bulawayo each week, these leaving on Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays. Bulawayo and West Nicholson. Trains leave Bulawayo every Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday for Gwanda and West Nicholson. Journey occupies: To Gwanda, 7 h. 17 m. ; to West Nicholson, 9 h. 55 m. Fares : To Gwanda, 19s. first class, 14s. 3d. second ; to West Nicholson, £1 4s. 9d. first class, 18s. 6d. second. Trains leave West Nicholson for Bulawayo every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. Bulawayo and Matopos. Trains leave Bulawayo for Matopos (for World's View, etc.) every Sunday, Wednesday, and Saturday, returning the same day. Journey occupies 1 h. 30 m. Fares : 10s. first class, 5s. second, single or return. Bulawayo and Plumtree. Rail motor-cars leave Bulawayo for all stations to Plumtree every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday, returning the same day. Journey occupies 4 h. 10 m. Fares : 138. 9d. first class, 9s. 4d. second. Gwelo and Selukwe. Trains leave Gwelo for Selukwe every Monday, Tuesday Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, returning the same day. Journey occupies 2 h. 10 m. Fares : 4s. 9d. first class, 3s. 9d. second. 375 GUIDE TO RHODESIA CHEAP FARES, TOURS, EXCURSIONS. The railway administration specially caters for tourists, besides arranging frequent excursions, of which visitors may avail themselves in common with the resident community. Excursion parties of four travelling together on the forward journey can, provided the distance is not less than 280 miles, obtain return tickets at single fare for the double journey to Victoria Falls or Umvuma (for Zimbabwe Ruins). These tickets are available for 30 days, and the return journey (when the members of a party need not necessarily travel together) may be broken at any point desired. This concession fare is obtainable on both the Rhodesian and South African Railway systems, and also on the Lourenço Marques line. A return ticket to Victoria Falls from Beira works out at £9 Os. 3d. first-class, £6 15s. 3d. second ; or to Umvuma at £6 4s. 3d. first, £4 12s. second. A series of circular tours by land and sea has also been introduced, fifty such tours in all having been arranged from centres in Rhodesia, such as Bulawayo and Salisbury, and also from Beira. This series is in operation all the year round. The fares cover rail fare and the usual meals and accommodation on steamers, but not meals on the trains ; and the journey must be completed within six months, passengers being allowed to break the journey at any point desired. The follow- ing are three sample tours : Beira to Durban and Cape Town.-To Durban by train viâ Salisbury, Bulawayo, Mafeking, Johannesburg, Maritz- burg ; Durban to Cape Town by sea ; return to Beira by rail viâ Kimberley. Fares from £29 10s. 6d. first-class, £20 4s. 6d. second. Bulawayo to East London.--Via Salisbury and Beira ; Beira to East London by steamer ; return by rail viâ Queens- town, Bloemfontein, Kimberley, Mafeking. Fares from £21 4s. first-class, £14 17s. second. Salisbury to Cape Town via Beira.-To Delagoa Bay by steamer ; to Durban by rail from Delagoa Bay viâ Pretoria, Johannesburg, Ladysmith, Maritzburg ;. Durban to Cape Town by steamer ; return by rail viâ Kimberley and Bula- 378 GUIDE TO RHODESIA 11 Umtali ... desia from the various ports of South Africa, per ton of 2,000 lb.: From Beira to Coal (fr. Class 1. Class 2. Class 3. Wankie to) £ S. d. £ S. d. £ S. d. £ S. d. Bwana M'Kubwa 31 16 8 23 15 0 17 6 8 1 9 1 Broken Hill 26 18 4 19 16 8 13 18 4 1 3 0 Bulawayo 18 15 0 12 18 9 1 6 11 Eldorado 17 10 0 13 15 0 10 0 19 11 Gatooma 16 13 4 12 13 4 9 0 12 7 Gwanda 20 11 8 14 6 8 10 0 0 9 1 Gwelo 18 10 0 12 16 8 9 0 9 10 Livingstone 22 13 4 16 0 0 1 6 6 Salisbury 14 0 11 4 8 1 8 15 6 Shamya 17 15 0 13 18 4 10 3 4 1 0 5 7 18 4 6 3 4 4 10 0 19 11 Umvuma 19 18 4 13 18 4 9 15 0 13 3 Coal from Wankie to Beira, £1 6s. per ton. From Port Elizabeth, East London, or Durban to Class 1. Class 2. Class 3. £s. d. £ s. d. £ S. d. Broken Hill 38 3 4 27 3 4 18 11 8 Bulawayo 21 15 0 14 18 4 10 8 4 Eldorado 34 6 8 24 10 0 19 3 Gatooma... 27 16 8 19 10 0 13 13 4 Gwanda 24 0 0 16 11 8 11 11 8 Gwelo 24 11 8 17 0 11 16 8 Livingstone 28 18 4 20 8 14 0 Salisbury 31 1 8 21 18 4 15 5 0 Shamva ... 34 11 8 24 13 4 17 6 8 Umyuma 26 13 4 18 13 4 13 0 0 From Cape Town to- Class 1. Class 2. Class 3. £ s. d. £ S. d. £ s. d. Broken Hill 40 8 28 10 0 8 4 Bulawayo 23 13 4 16 5 0 11 5 Eldorado... 36 5 0 25 16 8 18 0 0 Gatooma... 29 15 0 20 16 8 14 8 4 Gwanda 25 18 17 18 4 12 8 4 Gwelo 26 10 0 18 6 8 12 13 Livingstone 30 16 8 21 13 4 14 16 33 0 0 23 5 0 16 1 8 36 10 0 26 0 0 18 3 4 Umvuma 28 11 8 ... 20 13 16 8 ... ... . 1 19 8 Salisbury Shamva ... : : 380 È SI Fuly Kaia RIVER weR ingw R. 181 ка Zangue S GUIDE TO RHODESIA Bulalima-Mangwe District, 176 ; see Chisawasha Native Mission, 150, 322, also 155 350 Bulawayo, 185-195 Christmas Pass, 360, 365 Churches, 142-154 Chrome Siding and Junction, 276 District, 182 Iron Mine, 276 ; see also 48, 54 Educational Facilities, 127-137 Churches and Missions, 138, 247 Farmers' Association, 107 Citrus Fruits, 64-90, 244, 283, 334; Library, 158, 193 346, 352 ; see also“ Fruit Farming Medical Service, 35, 36 Climate, 30 Mining District, 51 Clothing, Hints re, 37 Occupation of, 5 Coal Measures, 220, 243, 251, 310, Places of Interest near, 194 333, 368 Rainfall and Temperatures, 31, 33 Geological Formation, 45 Trade, 124 Production of, 55 Volunteers, 170 Coldridge Siding, 180 Bureau, Native Labour, 173 Colleen Bawn Spur, 258 Bushman Paintings, 179, 195, 206, Colliery, Wankie, 220 214, 218, 263, 284, 285, 286, Commerce, Chambers of, 124 318, 319, 333, 349, 352, 353, Commercial Data, 120 359, 366 Compensation to Settlers, 14 of Victoria Falls, 23, 228 Concession, Rudd, 2, 183 Bushman's Haunt, 194 Lippert, 4 Bushmen in Rhodesia, 20, 206 Concession Siding, 343 Bush tick Siding, 253 ; see also 137 Congo (Belgian), 250 Bwana M'Kubwa Station, 250 Post and Telegraph Rates to, 172 Trade with, 124, 244 Connaught, Duke of, 19 Co-operative Experiments (Agricul- CA Cam and Motor Mine, 52, 315 ADET ture), 97 Copper, 48, 56, 242, 251, 330, 354, 368 Carnegie, Rev. D., 155, 159 oid Workings, 257, 270, 284, 330; Carnivora, 113, 176, 218 251, 255, see also“ Ancient Gold Work 257, 260, 284, 333, 346, 349, 354 ings Carrington, Gen. Sir F., 12 Cotton, 243, 245 Carvings, Rock, see Bushman Creamery, Gwelo, 94 Paintings." Crops, Area under, in5 Cattle, or Ranching, 63-106, 176, Customs Returns, 12I 243-245, 255, 260, 264, 278. 311, Rhodes Clause, 7 333, 334, 354, 357 Union, 18 Breeding Policy, 93, 260 Mortality, 94 Caves, 214, 249, 284, 338 Census Data, 172 Daisyfield Siding, 267 Central Estates, 279 Darwin District, see“ Mount Darwin” Farmers' Association, 107 David Livingstone, 138 Chambers of Commerce, 124 Death-rate, 173 Chaplin, F. D. P., 14 De Beers, Diamond Rights, 48 Charter, Royal, grant of, 1, 2 Defence Forces, 169 Charter District, 278 ; see also 143, 151 Deka Siding, 220 Farmers' Association, 107 Dett Siding, 219 Chartered Company, " British Dhlo-Dhlo Ruins, 265; see also 27 South Africa Company Diamonds, sec“ Precious Stones Chibi District, 284 Domestic Servants, 156 Chicago-Gaika Mine Spur, 307 Duchess Hill District, 316 Chilanga, District, 249 Dutch Reformed Church, 153 Experiment Farm Station, 244 Children, Conditions for, 38 Education of, 125 AGLE-VULTURE Siding, 258 Chilimanzi District, 286 E East Coute route, 368 Chipinga, 367 East Gwanda Group of Mines, 259 66 see 384 GUIDE TO RHODESIA Gwaai Siding, 217 Forest, 216 Gwanda Station, 258 ; sec also 35, 37, 124, 142 Gwanda-Tuli District, 256 Gwebi Siding, 333 Experiment Farm, 95, 329 Gwelo, 268, 270; se also 31, 35, 36, 124, 127, 136, 142, 143, 148, 152 154 Creamery, 94, 270 District, 269 Farmers' Association, 107 Mining District, 51, 52 Information and Ensigration Offices, 382 Insiza Station, 265 ; see also 35 District, 264 Farmers' Association, 107 Instruction for Farm Settlers, 96 Intensive Farming, 63 Interest, rate of, 102 Intundhla Siding, 217 Inyanga District, 354 ; see also 35, 144 Camp, 357 Mountains and Ruins, 27, 357 Inyantue Siding, 219 Inyati, 195, 262 ; see also 35, 154 Inyazura Siding, 358 Inyoka Tobacco Estates, 308, 310 Iron, Ancient Workings in, 257; see also “ Ancient Gold Workings and “Copper (old) Workings Mine Siding, 278 Irrigation, advice re, 92 on J Fort, 245 AMESON, Sir Starr, 3, 5, 8 Jessie Siding, 259 Jewish Community, 154 Johnson, Major F., 2 Jumbo Station, 343 Hammond, John Hays, Ancient Mining, 23 Hampden, Mount, 2 Junction, Mount, 329 Hartley Station, 316 ; see also 35, 36, 124, 143, 151 District, 310 Farmers' Association, 107 Mining District, 51 52 Headlands Siding, 354 Farmers' Association, 107 Headwaters Siding, 306 Heany Junction, 252, 262 Hebrew Denomination, 154 Helm, Rev. C. D., 155, 195 Helvetia, 367 Higher Education, 134 History, 1-29, 196, 287 Early and other writers, 157 164, 287 Events in, 27, 196 Researches re, 25, 164 Horses, 63-86, 106, 244 Horticulture, Ancient, 358 Hospitals, 35 Hot Springs, 219 Hotel Charges, 328 House Rents, 325 Hunt Clubs, 273, 328 Hunters' Road Siding, 306 Hunting, Game, 110; see also 'Game" Hunyani River Falls, 337 249 K Kaiser Wilhelm Gold Belt, 353 Kalomo, 244, 249 Kanyemba, 337 Karanga (native race), 196, 206 Kings, Burial Place, 283 Kariba Gorge, 309 Kasama, 245 Kasempa, district, 244 Katanga District (Congo Belge), 250 Katuna Siding, 220 Kesi Siding, 221 Khami Ruins, 27, 196 Plan of 198 Siding, 184 Kimberley Reefs. see “ Bindura King Edward VII., 16 George V., 16 Kitchener, Lord, 16 IGUlala, diges, 216 Imperial Troops, 5, 14 Imports and Exports, 121 India and Rhodesia, see Rhodesia Indira Siding, 277 Asia and (, L-Native, 166, 173. 244, 245 Lalapanzi Siding, 277 Farmers' Association, 107 386 INDEX see also PANININGS, Rock, see see Missions, Native, 138-156 Norton Siding, 319 Mkushi, District, 249 Nursery, Forest, 97 M'Limo, The, 8, 14, 211 Nyamandhlovu Station, 216 Cave of, 209 District, 215 Moffat, Rev. Dr., 138, 154 Nyanvia, 143 Monomotapa Concessions, 352 Nyema Tank, 253 Moodie Trek, 3 Morgan Spur, 216 Morgenster Mission Station, 153, 283 BSERVATORY, Bulawayo, 193 Mount Darwin District, 346; 35 Mount Hampden, 2 Occupation of Matabeleland, 5 Odzi Siding, 359 Junction, 329 Office Rents, 326 Selinda, 367 Ancient Mounted Police, 169 Old (Mine) Workings, see Workings,"... Copper Workings,” Mpika, 245 “ Iron Workings Mrewa District, 352 ; see also 143 Mtoko District, 353 ; see also 143 Nic Siding, 261 Mules, 73, 106, 244 Ophir, Rhodesian.connection with, 26,; see also “ Ancient Mining,' Museum, Rhodesia, 191, 192 “ Zimbabwe Ruins" Mwomboshi, 244, 249 Mine Spur, 254 Mzilikatzi, 181, 194, 261 Oranges, see Citrus Fruits" Ostriches, 351, 354 ; see also“ Game " ANKIN China found at Zim- NA babwe, 291 Native Affairs, 15, 165; see also 123 Customs and Traditions, 166, 206, Bushman 211, 219 Education, 135, 155 Panda-ma-Tenka Road, 220 Farming, 105, 106 Paris Missionary Society, 247 Labour Bureau, 173; also Pasipas Siding, 215 “ Labour” Passaford Siding, 343 Missions, 138-156 Pasteur Institute, 35 Police, 8, 169, 247 Penhalonga Township, 365 ; Population, 172 124, 144 Rebellion, 8-12 Valley, 365 Reserves, 15 ; see also 217 and each Pennefather, Col., 2 district Phallicandother Emblems, Zimbabwe, Taxation, 165 295 Trade, 122, 123 Pigs, 70-96 “Natural” Wall, Matopos, 206 Pimento Park Siding, 344 Nature Worship, Zimbabwe Emblems Pioneer Expedition, 2 of, 295 Planet-Arcturus Mines, 322 Ndanga District, 283 ; see also 35, Plant-breeding, 95 143 Plumer, Col., II, 16 Ndola District, 244, 249 Plumtree Station, 179; see also 35, Neal and Hall on Ruins, 28 124, 142, 152, 176 New Brixton, 345 Boarding School, 127, 180 Settlers, Railway Concessions to, Farmers' Association, 107 382 P.O. Savings Bank, 170 Shagari District, 314 Police (British South Africa Police), Newspapers, 186, 247, 273, 314, 328, 2, 3, 16, 169 362 Conditions of Enlistment, 169 Ngamo Siding, 217 Northern Rhodesia, 247 North Melsetter Farmers' Association, Population, 172 107 Port of Bevia, 371 Northern Rhodesia, I, 242 ; Post and Telegraph Tariffs, 170 144, 150, 152 Poultry, 101, and under Agricul- Police, 247 ture Umtali Farmers' Association, 107 Precious Stones, 48, 264, 268, 270 see also see also 389 INDEX Lundi, 255, 269, 284 Lunga, 253 Lunyanti (or Chobé), 222 Lusitu, 366 Mabfen, 321 Macheke, 353 Machili, 222 Mafisoe, 309 Mafuri, 353 Mailengwe, 176 Makabusi, 321, 341 Malengenyana, 252 Manetzi, 284 Mangwe, 179 Manyamyama, 176 Manzinyama, 264 Marowa, 309 Masama, 309 Masue, 218 Matetsi, 218 Matjesumhlope, 183 Mazoe, 341, 344, 346 Mbilambowe (or Insezi), 252 Mchingwe, 264 Mjeni, 258 Mlendi, 309 Moakwa, 176 Mpudzi, 360 Msengesi, 346 Msengi, 334 Mtenji, 321 Mtorikoi, 284, 285 Murari, 366 Musasi 366 Mvindzi 321 Mwerari 278 Mwewe, 256 Myamvuvu, 366 Myayunomba, 366 Myunga, 366 Mzolo, 309 Nangandwe, 218 Nata, 216 Natani, 176 Nceine, 252 N'cema, 254 Nengo, 222 Ngezi, 255, 278 Ngwabalizi, 252 Nioka, 222 Nitshingwe, 255 Nuanelsi, 255, 264 Nyadidza, 278 Nyadiri, 352 Nyagadzi, 353 Nyarkuni, 252 Nygamo, 267 Nyingaazi, 366 Odzani, 360 Odzi, 353, 359 Omay, 309 Ongwe, 309 Poorti, 321, 341, 344 Popotekwe, 280 Poti, 345 Pungwe, 357 Que-Que, 269, 307 Ramaquabane, 176, 179 Ruenya, 353 Ruia, 346 Rusapi (Lesapi), 353, 354 Rusawi, 351 Ruwa, 350 Sabi, 255, 278, 284, 351 Sabukra, 360 Sanyati, 222, 269, 330 Sebakwe, 269, 278, 308, 310 Sebungwe, 309 Semkwe, 309 Semokwe, 179 Sengwe, 222 Sesseni, 309 Shangani, 262, 267, 269 Shashani, 179, 256 Shashi, 175, 257, 275, 286 Shiré, 222 Spangur, 366 Suri Suri, 316 Tanganda, 366 Tatagura, 341 Tati, 175 Tchipanga, 366 Tegwani, 176 Tebekwe, 275, 277 Tjankwa, 176 Tokwe, 269, 275 Tsungwesi, 359 Tuli, 256 Umfuli, 317, 330 Umgusa, 183, 216, 252, 253, 261 Umgwezi, 222 Umkumvura. 346 Umniati, 278, 309, 310 Umpakwe, 179 Umrodzi, 341 Umsengesi, 330 Umshagashi, 280 Umsururu, 329 Umsweswe, 312 Umtali, 360, 361 Umtchabezi, 258 Umvumvumvu, 366 Umzebezwe, 366 Umzingwani, 252, 254, 255, 256 Umwidzi, 341 Vungu, 267, 269 Wainzi, 342 Weinunbi, 351 Zambesi, 218, 222, 245, 309, 330 391