,égiwfigsvié ,. . .
M,
h
w
. .M

itaiiiaclg . $582...‘ ‘‘‘‘











uptuui r
lawn flm1"""""" '
an \AM- mm'u'
‘5 771447 . Y
L :.__‘




V ___.,. . .
h - V
, ' r\L75_k,-" -
w
Plat/As‘? FAL 1987
‘.9
05 w


JDT‘ HBRARr
7 5 2 “ma I’fm. umnm" v
‘A.’ klm. “MIRA!

m BULLIVANT & 00.,
CO NTRACTORS FOR



gm WIRE TRgiMWAYS
"An m--- n‘... _._.. __ ___




PATENT FLEXIBLE
STEEL WIRE ROPES
IN LIEU OF
CHAIN OR HEMP
FOR
HYDRAULIC LIFTS,
HOlSTS, CRANES,
ONE-THIRD
THE WEIGHT


L ‘la-=-
1 vf°w
OAPE GOVERNMENT
RAILWAYS.
——-—*0>—7—-—
SOUTH AFRIOA’S SUNNY SKIES ANO DRY AIR
ALL THE YEAR ROUND,
versus
EUROPEAN RAIN, FOG, FROST ANO SNOW.
The Shortest, Quickest and Cheapest Route between the South
African DIAMOND and GOLD FIELDS, and Europe.

HE Magnificent Steamers of the Castle and Union
Lines leave Southampton every Saturday, and,
after what has been well-described as a “ Summer
Voyage,” usually reach Cape Town Docks on Wednesdays,
i.e., 18 or 19 days, Where Passengers step ashore without
the use of Tugs or Small Boats.
Through Tickets can be obtained of Thomas Cook and
Son, Tourist Agents, Ludgate Circus, and other London
Offices ; at the Union Steam Ship Company's Offices, South
African House, Bishopsgate Street, London, and at South-
ampton ; at the Castle Mail Packet Company's Offices, 3 and
4 Fenchurch Street, London, and at Southampton; and at
the Offices of the Agent General of the Colony, 7 Albert
Mansions, Victoria Street, London, S.W., to Matjesfontein,
Ceres, Beaufort, Cradock, Aliwal North, Bloemfontein, or to
any other places through which the Railway passes.
There are Mineral Baths at Malmesbury, Montagu, Oaledon,
Cradocl-r, Aliwa/ North, :20.
CAPE TOWN, O. B. ELLIOTT, General Manager.
17th Feb., 1893.


N-ATAL GOilERNMENT

RAILWAYS.
Shortest and Cheapest Route to the South African Gold Fields,
via Natal.


DAILY TRAIN AND COACH SERVICE BETWEEN
DURBAN AND JOHANNESBURG.
journey completed in 48 hours.
By Rail Comfortable Sleeping Accommodation is provided for the
Night portion of the journey, and Carriages with Lavatory
Arrangements are attached to the Trains. ,

Fares from Durban to Gold Flelds, and Vice Versa-
Singlc journey. 1st Class. 2nd Class. 3rd Class.
DURBAN and CHARLESTOWN (Rail Daily), - £3 2 6 £2 r 8 {r 0 x0
CHARLESTOWN andJOHANNESBURG (Coach Daily), 4 10 o 4 10 o 4 to o
CHARLESTOWN and BARBERTON (Coach Bi-weckly), 6 IO 0 6 10 o 6 10 o
DURBAN and HARRISMITH (Rail Daily), - - 3 2 6 2 1 8 1 o 10
Return Tickets available for Three Calendar Months by Railway at a Fare
and a-Half.
The En lish Mail Steamer reaches Port Natal on Monday in each week, and leaves
Port Nata Wharf at 8 a.m. on Thursday; the Up-countr Mail Train arrives ‘at
the Port in time to connect with the latter. Passengers rom England may book
through to johannesburg at the Ofi‘ices of Castle Packets and Union Mail Steam
Ship Companies; London, Capetown, Port Elizabeth, and East London.
Rates for Through Goods Traffic.
PORT NATAL to CHARLESTOWN (Border of South African Republic), and to
HARRISMITH (Orange Free State).
* Special Class Rate. All other Traflic.
70s. per Ton of 2240 lbs. 80s. per Ton of 2240 lbs. '
*These Rates apply only to Rice, Wheat, Barley, Oats, Peas, Beans, Dholl,
Mealies, Meal, and other Grain Stuffs, Flour, Salt, Bran, Sugar, Potatoes, Colonial
Lime, Manure and Coffee, in bags, Imported Hops in Bales, Wool Packs, Mining,
Agricultural, and other Machinery and Implements, Timber, Cement, Safety Fuse,
Pig Iron, Wire Netting, and \‘Vire Fencing Materials, Sheep Di ping Preparations,
Salts of Potash in cases, Candles in boxes, Galvanised Iron paciied in cases or tied
in secure bundles, Undamageable Iron (which must be so consigned). New Bags or
Sacks in bales, Printing Paper and Materials, and Commercial Travellers Baggage.
These Rates apply to South African Produce when cheaper than South African
Produce Rates.
GOLD MINING MACHINERY AND GENERAL Goons TRAFFIC for the Gold Fields,
shipped to Port Natal, may be loaded into the Railway wagons at the Port, and con-
veyed through within 48 hours to Charlestown or llarrismith, at which Stations
there are numerous established Forwarding Agents, prepared to forward the Traflic
with dispatch to the Gold-bearing Centres, and to all other parts of the Interior.
Every ap liancc for loading and unloading is provided at the Port, Durban, Charles-
town, ancil-Iarrismith.
Time Tables and general information as to the Natal route may be obtained on
application to the District Superintendents at Pietermaritzbugg, Ladysmith, Harri-
smith, and Newcastle; to the N.G.R. Agent, Mr. _I. E. Mc ESS, johannesburg;
Messrs. MURRAY & Co., Barberton; Messrs. G. Hers & Co., Pretoria; or to
Dunn“, january, 1893. PAVID HUNTER, Gen. Manager.


E.
KOWI E RAILWAY SYN DICATE.
GRAHAMSTOWN TO PORT ALFRED-















Miles l s _ Tuesdays, First
from l SINGLE PARP‘S' Thursdays Wednesday
Graham's’ T~_ STATIONS and in each
Town- ' rst. 2nd. Natives. Saturdays-
5 D. s D s. 1).
Grahamstown, dep.
10 1 3 o 2 o r 6 Manley Flats -
13 4 o 2 6 r 9 Blaauw Krantz - '
2r 5 3 3 6 2 9 Martindale - - 3'
25 i 6 6 4 6 3 6 Round Hill - - 4'
27 | 6 6 4 6 3 6 Tra ps Valley - 4'
33 8 6 6 o 4 6 Bat urst - - 4'
43 II o 7 6 5 6 Port Alfred, arr. 5'
‘ PORT ALFRED TO GRAHAIVISTOWN-
Wednesday
Mondays and Fridays,
Miles 'SINGLE FARES. and First excepting
from Port STATIONS. Wednesday First
Alfred» in each Wednesday
Month. in each
Ist 2nd. Natives. Month-
s D s. D s D. A.M. P.M.
Port Alfred,‘ dep. 5'30 2'0
10 3 o 2 o I 6 Bathurst - - 6'10 2'40
16 5 o 3 3 2 6 Trapps Valley - 6'35 3'5
18 5 o 3 3 2 6 Round Hill - - S 6'45 S 3'r5
22 6 o 4 o 3 o Martindale - - S 7'0 S 3'30
30 7 6 5 o 3 9 Blaauw Krantz » - S 7'30 S 4'0
33 8 6 6 0 4 6 Manley Flats - - 7'40 4'10
_ 43 II o 7 6 5 6 Grahamstown, arr. 8'30 50
. Stoptomd. HENW'W
GAZE’S UNIVERSAL TOURS.
HENRY GAZE & SONS,
142 Strand, London; 2 Rue Scribe, Paris; 113 Broadway, New York;
16 Suffolk St., Dublin; Rome, Luoerne, Geneva, Marseilles, Naples, 8w.
Travel Tickets throughout Europe by all Routes.
Hotel Coupons for over 1000 Hotels.
Conducted Tours at Frequent Intervals.
Passage Tickets by all Ocean Lines.
Round the World Tours. '
Direct and Circular Tickets throughout America.
Agents for Castle and Union Lines}
NOTICE.


r:I_1HE remaining advertisements will be found after the text. Each town
indexes its own advertisements, but as a further aid advertisements are
arranged alphabetically; thus, England follows East London, Ceres follows
Cape Town, and so on. Besides this there is a trade index which immediately pre-
cedes the advertisements. Readers should refer to these pages, as they form part of
the scheme of the book, giving information about ships, hotels, &c., and indicating
which are the most rominent and enterprising men of business in the various
districts. By consulting them travellers are able to dispense with a large amount
of luggage; English merchants or manufacturers will find them of use in choosing
Agents, &c.; and those living or settling in South Africa are shown where to order
their goods.



B OWN’S GUIDE
OUTH AFRICA”


vi
PRICE 25. 60.
Madeira and the [Ianary Islands.
.4 Practical and Complete Guide for the use of
Inualids and Tourists.

WI'I‘I—I NINE MAPS-
By A. BROWN.
SECOND EDITION-
London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & 00., Ltd,
ST. DUNSTAN’S HOUSE, FETTER LANE, FLEET ST., E.C.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
"THE SATURDAY REVIEW” says :—" Mr. Saniler Brown's compact
and useful guide to Madeira and the Fortunate Islands has reached a
second edition, and has been equipped with much new and useful
information about these popular resorts. In some respects Mr. Samler
Brown is the very model of a guide. We hardl know another writer
of his class who writes so little ‘about it and a out it’ and comes so
directly to the point. Of talkee-talkee. even about Guanches there is
hardly any; the very dragon-tree does not be uile Mr. Brown from the
austerity of a model examination answer. nt for distances, aths,
prices, the number of beds to be expected at this and that Fon a, the
places where you should drink water, and all such things, he is a pearl
of commentators and all in scarcely a hundred pages, with good maps.
His name, if we may jest on names, really ought to be Sam ler and
not Samler. The descriptive and historical sections of the heck are
carefully compiled and thoroughly readable.”
“THE FIELD” says:—“This is the second edition of an excellent
ide to Madeira and the Canary Islands. It contains just such
information as invalide and tourists require, is of handy size and well
furnished with maps.”
“THE BCOTSMAN ”‘ says :—-" There are many books on these ‘fortu-
nate isles ' butho handy guide of this class ".
“Tl-IE GITIZDR" says z—“lt is invaluable to those to whom it is
addressed and forms a very good half-crown's worth ".
“THE SOUTH LONDON RECORD” says :-—"The book is handy in
size and plainly practical in plan and execution. We fancy the guide
will soon become indispensable to visitors to the Madeiras and Canaries."


viii

dir-___ ___ __ _ _
LIST OF AGENTS IN SOUTH AFRICA FROM WHOM BOOKS
MAY BE PROCURED.
Those marked with a star are also authorised to receive Advertisements.




Aliwal North Cape Colony Messrs. Sauer and Osmond‘
Beaufort West ,, ,, James Bryant‘
,, C.Borcken hagen & Co.‘
Bloemfontein 0. Free State { ,, Bairlow Bros. & Co.—Deale
Bros.
,, J. C.Juta&Co.‘
Cape Town Cape Colony { .. Darter Bros. 8: Walton
Ceres ,, ,. R. Menzies ‘
Charlestown Natal ,, J. J. Pratt dz'Son ‘
,, Butler Bros.
Cradoek Cape Colony { H H- E_ Tarkington
,, P. Davis 6: Sons '
Durban Natal { H Adams & Cm
East London Cape Colony ,, Hebbes & Co.‘
George ,, ,. A. J. Sayers‘
,, J. Rea Shaw '
Grahamstown " { ,, Grocotjt 6; Sherry
Harrismith 0. Free State ,, A. S. Welch ’
Humansdorp Cape Colony ,, E C. Sellick ‘
Johannesburg . A. R. ,, J. C. Juta & Co.’
Kimberley Cape Colony ,, Leoéirlrénlllons “ '
. , ,, W. . i mann
Kmgwm ’‘ T°- ” i ,, W. T. Randall
Knysna ,, ,, A. J. Sayers“—W. Young
Ladysmith Natal ,, Henry Glover '
Middelburg Cape Colony ,, W. C. Turpin"
Montagu] ,, ,, W. A. J oubert & Son ‘
Mossel Bay ,, ,, J 0s. Powrie ‘
Oudtshoorn ,, ,. J. & H. Pocock '
Paarl ,, ., Du Tesit 8:90.‘
- - ,, . avis & ons
Plfiterma‘ntz' Natal i ,, Adams 8: Co.—Vause, Slat-
urg l ter &' Co.
Port Elizabeth Cape Colony ,, Impey Walton & Co.’
Pretoria S_ A_ R ,, A.tg‘ll‘gnC;-W. E. Burmes-
Queenstown Cape Colony ,, Geo. E. Vickers & Co.‘
Somerset W. ,, M. J. Burnard & Co.‘
Strand "
Stellenbosch ,, ,, W. J. de Kock'
Uitenhage ,, ,, J. G. Nicholl‘
Wellington ,, ,, J. Fred. Pentz & Co.‘
Worcester ,, ,, Job. E. de Jong.‘


Or Orders may be given to any Bookseller in England or South
Africa. Copies are also kept by the Union, Castle, and other 8.8.
Companies.
English Advertisements may be sent to the Publishers. (For the
gages on which they are to be found refer to pages 89, 40, &c., or to the
rade Index of Advertisements).




PREFACE.
THE object of this book has .been to place in a condensed
and easily intelligible form the mass of information neces-
sary to TOURISTS, SPORTBMEN, INVALIDS, and SETTLERS. It
has been borne in mind that the broad facts of history and
social life are interesting to all alike, whilst a series of
special articles supply in sufficient detail the information
required by each class.
T0urists,-—In spite of the fact that South Africa forms
the terminus of the pleasantest of voyages the tourist has
so far been rarer than the attractions of the country warrant,
and has either confined his explorations to the sea coast or,
in wandering inland, has practically ventured upon what
is to him more or less a term incognita. The pages dealing
with this section have been arranged, as far as the nature
of the country admits, on the lines of the best European
guide books and endeavour to set forth what is best worth
seeing, the best way to see it and the probable outlay from
the start to the return. The index allows this portion of
book to be used as a Gazeteer.
SportsmelL—An article on the game of South Africa
gives hints regarding expeditions to the less frequented
haunts 0f the larger fauna which still form the finest
hunting grounds in the world, and includes information
as to what is to be found in the more immediate vicinity
of the towns.
Invalids,-—The pages referring to South Africa as a


X
‘Health Resort deal with a well recognised feature of the
country and comprise all the available information which
may be of use to physicians in the choice of residence for
their patients. The rapidly increasing reputation of the
climatic conditions of South Africa must, from an English
point of view, be greatly enhanced by the facts that the
country is mainly under British rule and practically every-
where English-speaking and_ that it offers the means of
livelihood to those who are not in an independent position.
Settlers,—-This last advantage, almost unique among
health resorts, has been accentuated by some special articles
on the requirements of settlers dealing more particularly
with pastoral and agricultural pursuits.
Physicians and Invalids are however emphatically warned
that South Africa is not adapted to those who cannot, to a
certain extent, shift for themselves. To send sick people in
the last stages of consumption on a fatiguing journey which
leads to places where the unfortunate patient cannot procure
proper attention is most certainly wrong. There is not a
town or health resort in South Africa where the writer
has not been requested to ‘give the uttermost prominence
to this fact.
Country or farm quarters, situated well up a slope, where
the feeding is fairly good, are the best for all whether well
or ill. It should perhaps be called to the attention of the
medical faculty that South Africa, probably owing to the
great variation between night and day, is one of the very
few hot countries where Europeans tend to increase largely
in weight. The descendents of settlers are also found to
increase in general stature.
Maps and Diagrams have been added with a view
to simplify the various sections of the book.
Those requiring greater details than it has been found


xi
practicable to include within the limits of the present work
are referred to the histories of Mr. Thcal, who has earned
the title of the Herodotus of South Africa and to the pages
of the Argus Annual, a compilation probably unsurpassed
in any other colony, and to the “Cape of Good Hope
Of'licial Handbook ” (John Noble), which deals exhaustively
with agricultural productions and Colonial Industries.
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the strictest
accuracy it is impossible that in a subject covering such
a vast extent of ground some errors should not have crept
in and the authors will gratefully acknowledge any correc-
tions they may receive from their readers with a view to
their incorporation into future editions.





CONTENTS.
Preface . . .
Pn‘ncipal Sights
Steamers running to South Africa. with fares, &c.
Coasting Steamers, With fares, 3w-
The Voyage... Lisbon
Madeira Terwrizffe Grand Canary
Sl. Helena
Aseens'imt . .. ...
Clothing Custom Duties and Rebates
Coinage, Weights and Measures
Accommodation Postal and Telegraph Rates
Languages Vocabulary Rent . .4
Domestic Servants and Labourers
Railways '
Railway Regulations
Passenger Coaches
CapeWines... Climate, Topography, and Resources
Cape Colony .. . Natal Orange Free Stale
Transvaal ..
Northern Territories
Precautions against Malaria Meteorological Observations


xiv
Immigration, Assisted passages
Disposal of Crown Lands, (to. Agricultural productions
Pastoral do.
Native Labour
Timber
)[ining
The Game of South
History of the Cape
,, ,, Natal
Cape Town
Route 1. I
Cape Town to Simon’s Town and the Cape of Good Hope,
and Wynberg, &o. ~
Route II.
Cape Town to Worcester, 12121, Stellenbosch, the Pearl,
Wellington, Tulbagh and Ceres (ind. Malmesbury) Route HI. ,
Worcester to Swellendam and Robertson and Ashton
Route IV.
Worcester to Kimberley, Vrijburg, Mafeking, Tuli, &c.,
and Johannesburg via Klerksdorp Route V.
Cape Town to Bloemfontein, the Transvaal and Mashona-
land . .
Route VI.
Cape Town to Mossel Bay, overland, via Somerset West,
Caledon, Swellendam and Riversdale Route VII-
Mossel Bay to Oudtshoorn, George, the Cango Caves and
Prince Albert, to the main line Route VIII.
Mossel Bay to George, Millwood, Knysna, Humansdorp
and Port Elizabeth Route IX.
Port Elizabeth to Uitenhage and Graaf Reinet
Route X-
Port Elizabeth to the Zuurberg, Grahamstown and Port
Alfred .. .
Africa,
nos
67
71
72
73
74
74
76
89
102
110
126
128
137
138
148
148
156
161
169
172


XV
FEE" ' ‘"T" M‘; -T:i‘:'"(‘*?__??i‘3‘€€" *1 " ' ‘Life-m5-


mos
Route XI.
Port Elizabeth to Cradock, Colesberg, Bloemfontein, the
Transvaal and Mashonala-nd 178
Route XII.
Cape Town to East London or vice 'vcrsa by rail, with the
connections between both and Port Elizabeth, 620. 187
Route XIII.
Grahamstown to King William’s Town 187
Route XIV. -
East London to Stutterheim, Queenstown, Burgherstlorp
and Aliwal North (via Bethuli ), to Bloemfontein,
the Transvaal, &c. .. 190
Kafl'raria, 198
Durban .. 200
Route XV. -
Durban to Verulam, Stanger and. the Tugela. for lower
Zululand .. 203
Route XVI. -
Durban to Isipingo and the Cape Colony (through
Kafiraris.) 203
Route XVII. I
Durban to Pietermaritzburg, Ladysmith, Oharlestown, the
Transvaal, &c. 204
Route XVIII.
Durban to Ladysmith, Harrismith and Johannesburg (old
Heilbron Road) or to Bloemfontein ('uid Winburg Road) 212
The Transvaal.
Area, history, 860. 213
Pretoria. 217
Johannesburg 221
Potchefstroom 225
Klerksdorp . .. .. 226
Barberton and Steyn'sdorp Gold fields 227
Lydenburg Gold fields 229.
Route to the Low Country Gold fields, &0. 230
Maps.
General Map of South Africa with Key to Sectional
Maps To faco page 4
Climatological Map , ,, 32


PAG E
Maps.
Sectional Map, No. I.
Western Provinces of Cape Colony with
Environs of Cape Town To face page 128
Sectional Map, No. II.
Central Southern Provinces of Cape
Colony... ,, 148
Sectional Map, No. III.
Eastern Southern Provinces of Cape
Colony... .. ,, 172
Sectional Map, No. IV.
Natal with the Environs of Durban ,, 200
Diagrams.
Section from Knysna through Beaufort West
to the Orange River ,, 35
Section due North from the Mouth of the
Fish River through Aliwal North ,, 35
Index.


SIGHTS OF SOUTH AFRICA.
ALTHOUGH a young progressive country such as this cannot
fail to keenly interest every visitor who will take the trouble
to inform himself on the past history of its variously
colored races, on the enormous diversity and wealth of its
indigenous flora and fauna, and on the magnificent geological
problems which it spreads before even the most unobservant
eye; those who pay it only a brief visit will naturally ask
for a somewhat concise list of the most salient points
which they ought not to miss. Taking the ordinary
European ramble as a standard and omitting all but the
most noteworty and accessible, these might be briefly
recapitulated as :—
Cape Town and‘its Suburbs, Table Mountain, &0.; the
Paarl with excursions as far as Ceres and over Bain’s Kloof ;——
Worcester and the Hex River Pass if possible ;—the Cango
Caves at Oudtshoorn and the Zwartberg and Montagu
Passes ;—the Knysna and other forests ;—Port Elizabeth ;—
Grahamstown ; -— Durban ;——P. Maritzburg ;-—Howick ,' —
Kimberley and its diamond mines ;—Johannesburg and the
gold mines, &c. There are many more towns which are
well worth seeing but this list is enough for those with
limited time._
The visitor should on no account miss a ride in the train
through some part of the Karroo or Veldt, nor should he
neglect to see as much as possible of the customs of the
natives which are a relief after the somewhat dull form of
(1)


STEAMERS RUNNING TO SOUTH AFRICA.
(For Advertisements, see pp. 1-3.'


TICKETS —SINGLE.


NAME or LINE. WHESAIBLOATS ‘1:25.55
' A ' 1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Union S.S. 00. Every week S’hampton 39 gns. 25 gns. 16 gns.
(C'arry Mails under Hamburg
Contract) Antwerp
Rotterdam 44 gns. 29 gns. 19 gns.
Castle M.P. C0. D0. London Do. Do. Do.
(Carry Mails under S’hampton
Contract) Flushing
Clan Line S.S. Go. About every Glasgow Do. Do. Do.
fortnight Liverpool
Shaw, Savill and Two each London Do. Do. Do.-
Albion S.S. 00. month Plymouth
New Z’land S.S. Go. D0. D0 D0.
Natal Direct Every three London 33 gns. —— —
weeks
Aberdeen Direct Line Every three London Do. -— --
- weeks .
British and Colonial Every three Amsterdam Do not at present provide
Steam Navig. Co. weeks & London passenger accommodation.
Natal Direct Everymonth Calcutta 20 gns. Jfigns. 5 gns.
( Hamburg
- Amsterdam
German E. African Do. 1 Lisbon £45 £30 £17 10s.
Naples






T0.
Pom‘s 01-‘ CALL.
NOTES.
Cape
Town
and
Natal
Do.
Do.
Cape
Town
Do.
Natal
only
Natal
only
Natal
D0.
Lisbon, Madeira,* Tene-
rifie, St. Helena, Ascen-
sion (ret’ng), Cape Town,*
Mossel Bay, P. Eliz’bth,*
East London,’ Durban,‘
Delagoa Bay, Beira.
Do., excepting that Inter-
mediate Boats call at G.
Canary inst’cl of Tenerifie
Teneriffe and all South
African Ports
Tenerifie and Cape Town
Tenerifie and Las Palmas
alternately, P. Natal, De-
lagoa Bay & E. African
Ports
Canary Islands and Port
Natal
Grand Canary and all S.
African Ports
Madras and all E.. and S.
African Ports
Suez, Aden, Zanzibar,
Mozambique, &c., and
homewards Marseilles

, Mail Boats only atop at
places marked with a
star. Bouts run as hr
at Mozambique Mau-
ritiuu and Madagas-
car. Fur further in—
formation see head-
in; “Cunning Stea-
mers". Return Tick-
eta, cmsting double
single fare. less 10 per
cent, are available "
six months. and on the
coast ports by either
line. The {area given
are thqse lvy the Mail
Boats. Intermediate B’tl
being rather cheaper.
Return via Erlst Coast,
Mauritius, Indian Ports,
and Suez. Fare from
S. Africa, about 60 gus.
lletnrn via Cape Horn.
Only Snluun passenger ae~
colnnmdation. Return
Tickets it! p. cent. dis.
Du.
£7 10s. lose on ticket:
from or to Naples or
Liulmn,

‘l
l
l
a; .Laxga‘“ :4.’


Coasting Steamers.
The approximate days of departure from Cape Town eastwards
are :—for Mail Steamers, Saturdays ; —for Ocean-going Intermediate
Steamers, Tuesdays ;— for the smaller Coasters, Thursdays and
Saturdays. All regular boats belong to the Union and Castle Lines
and the fares are the same in all cases. Return tickets are avail-
able by either line. The dates at intermediate ports and of the
return journey depend upon circumstances. Steamers run beyond
Delagoa Bay to Inhambane, Quilimane, Beira, &c.
In addition to the above there are several coasting and service
steamers of other companies which touch at ports from Cape Town
to Zanzibar for which see preceding table or apply at the Agencies.
A small private steamer, the “ Somtseu” plies between East
London, St. John’s River and Durban as cargo offers. Fares 20s.
to 40s. according to distance.
FARES FROM CAPE TOWN AND VICE VERSA.



Smota. Reruns.
Poa'r.
lst 2nd 1st 2nd
Mossel Bay - - - £3 3 0 £2 2 0 £5 10 0 £3 15 0
Knysna - - - - 3 10 O 2 15 0 6 6 O 5 0 0
Port Elizabeth - - 5 5 0 3 10 0 7 17 6 5 5 0
East London - - 6 6 0 4 4 0 9 9 0 6 6 0
Durban - - - - 8 15 0 6 10 O 15 15 0 11 11 O
Delagoa Bay - - 12 15 O 9 10 O 23 0 0 17 2 0


Note—Ships going Northward run close inshore between Port
Elizabeth and Natal and allow passengers a good view of the land.
Coming South they keep further out.
RATES FOR FREIGHT FROM LONDON.
Ordinary cargo is divided into four classes and ranges between :—
for Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, 22s. 6d. to 45s. ; Mossel Bay and
Knysna, 27s. 6d. to 50s. ; East London, Natal, and Delagoa Bay,
30s. to 52s. 6d. per ton.









\ Kagvzge e
RE-runmc




‘m


' 1L. -.
“Job-maroon
, SOUTH AFRICA
( WITH KEY TO SECTION MAPS
\ Bugbkhsmmbflw
0 50 I00 I50
> Explanation
Assam? --
r a, I g _ ____ ._
ash H n ,,,,,,, ._
Specially prepared for"Brown's So'uth Africa’) 35

1
D 35
GHPhiZip & Inn, Z'zmdon £- in-vrpmrlfi






GUIDE
TO
SOUTH AFRICA.

The Voyage.
Cape Town, the metropolis, in spite of its remote position in the
very corner of the Continent, is a good point from which to make
a start in any direction. This port is 5,951 miles from Plymouth,
which distance is covered by the mail steamers in from 15 to 21
days. The limit of time specified in the mail contracts with the
Union and Castle Lines is 20 days, which is rarely exceeded.
The boats of the Union, Castle, and Clan Lines touch at all S.
African ports, those of the Shaw, Savill and N. Z. Shipping 00. only
at Cape Town, while those of the Aberdeen and Natal Direct Lines
proceed direct to Durban (for particulars see pp. 3, 4).
The leading passenger lines are of course the Union and the
Castle which were started in 1853 and 1872 respectively. The
competition caused by the energy of Sir Donald Currie, who is one
of the best friends South Africa has ever had, has not only reduced
the voyage to the dimensions of a holiday trip, but has contributed
materially to converting what was only comparative comfort into
actual luxury. Such boats as the “Scot” and the “Dunottar
Castle” serve as models and have compelled other companies to
adopt a higher standard than might have been deemed necessary,
so that travellers by any route are sure of being treated liberally
and well, whether they choose the Mail Boats, the boats going
direct to Natal or those which run vid Suez.
The voyage is well known as one of the most pleasant sea trips
that can be made, the splendid passenger steamers possessed by the
two mail lines making light of the much maligned Bay of Biscay
and afiording a degree of comfort and stability in the smooth
southern seas scarcely realisable by those whose experience has
been confined to the stormier waters of the North Atlantic.
Although smaller than the large American liners the accommo-


6
dation is as a. rule better, the ships having been built to meet the
requirements of the sudden prosperity of a few years ago and being
consequently fully large for the present trafi‘ic, a point of consider-
able interest to those who wish to avoid crowded cabins. Those
who are not hurried can frequently secure a cabin to themselves by
travelling in an intermediate boat, that is to say a boat running
between the faster mail carriers and taking generally some days
longer in reaching its destination. Mail and intermediate alike are
generally provided with electric lights, baths and all modern con-
veniences and the author has always found the officials most
courteous and obliging. The table is liberal and compares favour-
ably with the ships of any other lines. .
All passengers are landed free of charge at their destination or
at any ports where the ticket allows of their journey being broken.
Siglitseers landing at intermediate stations must make their own
arrangements.
The ports of cell are Lisbon, 862 miles, 3 days, Madeira, 1306
miles, 3 to 4 days, Grand Canary, 1537 miles, 6 days, Teneriffe, 1517
miles, 6 days, and St. Helena, 4348 miles, only one or two of these
however being touched at on any one voyage. On the return
journey Ascension Island, 2395 miles from Cape Town, is occasionally
visited. '
Passengers by the Union and Castle Lines are carried free to
Southampton by special train, personal luggage only being allowed.
Southampton is a very convenient port of departure, the smooth
waters of the Solent allowing time to even the worst of sailors to
arrange their goods and chattels before being overtaken by sea
sickness.
Between England and Lisbon land is sighted at USHANT, some
18 hrs. from the start, and again about CAPE FINISTERRE, the black
cliffs of the latter announcing the fact that the Bay of Biscay has
been successfully crossed. Some hours later the FARILHOEs and
BERLENGA ISLANDS are passed and the coast of Portugal is ap-
proached. First the towers of MAFRA PALACE, which formed part
of Wellington’s lines at Torres Vedras, then PENHA CASTLE, serve as
landmarks and the Tagus is entered.
After crossing the bar the square white Gothic tower of BELEM is
seen on the left immediately above which is the long low CorivEN'ro
DOS Janomnos. The large white building on the summit of the
hill is the KING'S PALACE beyond which rise the dome and towers
of the EGREJA (Church) DA ESTRELLA and below and around the
white houses and terraced hills of Lisbon “that, sheening far,
celestial seems to be ”. Anchor is probably dropped opposite or a
little below the Custom House and, after the usual official visits,
boats run alongside to take passengers on shore.
Lisbon, population 332,000, boats from Is. to 2s. per head return.
Ilotula—Braganza, top of steep hill, 83. to 20s. a day ;—Central,
near_river, 95. ;—Durand’s, largo do Quintella, quiet position, 95.;
—Universal, very central, 7s. ;—Europe, close by, 7s.
As all passengers are landed at the Custom House it is advisable


7
to take no parcels or handbags on shore. A little disinfectant on
a. handkerchief is at times an advantage.
This book only pretends to be a. guide for passengers to the Cape,
&c., therefore Lisbon will be treated as a place where as much as
possible is to be seen in from two to four hours.
On leaving the Custom House the PRAQA no CoMERcIo, Ter-
reiro do Paco or Black Horse Square, for it is known by all three
names, is entered. In the centre of the square is a. bronze
equestrian statue of Jose I. and around the sides are the Bourse,
the Customs, the Indian, Naval and Government Oflices, the Town
Hall, and the Post and Telegraph Ofiices.
Wait under the triumphal arch at the top for a tramcar coming
down marked “ Belem " (fare, 60 reis or about 3d,). The car runs
along the river front past some two miles of that squalid splendour
so characteristic of the town, which has disgusted many a. traveller
since Byron saw and described it. The life of Lisbon is well
represented by the passers-by but there is no building of importance
until (35 minutes) the Gouvnnro nos J ERONIMOS, situated in the
suburb of Belem but undoubtedly the gem of Lisbon and the spot
most worthy of visiting. If closed apply for entrance. A gratuity
is expected of about sixpence to tenpence a head.
Parts of the exterior of the Church are of highly ornate Gothic,
though the lines generally are simple and graceful. It is however
the Moorish style of architecture of the interior which is most
worthy of notice. The immense organ and sculptured organ-loft
are also of interest. The precincts of the Convent itself, now a
charitable institution, should next be visited. Half an hour or more
can be well spent wandering round the Olois/ers, where the lace-like
stone-work has, by more than one authority, been declared to be
unequalled. The side-chapels with tombs and the gloriously
proportioned Refeclory should not be missed.
Leaving the Convent, the Towns or BELEM (5 minutes), which
marks the site of Vasco da Gama’s departure on his voyage round
the Cape, may be visited but is of small interest.
Returning from Belem select a. car marked "Rocio” (fare 60
reis). An upper road is taken where the extraordinary terraces on
which Lisbon is built are very apparent. The houses are all lined
with tiles and occupied by several families, members of which
lounge in a degagé manner from all sorts of windows at all sorts of
elevations above the pavement.
The car passes‘Black Horse Square again and ascends the RUA
AUREA or Goldsmiths’ Street, where the constant succession of
jewellers’ shops will attract attention, and skirts the PRA A Don
PEDRO, the gayest, most graceful and pleasing square in t e city,
where the visitor will alight.
Turning up to the left the new white stone RAILWAY STATION is
passed and the AvENInA or Hyde Park of Lisbon with its long lines‘
of trees and rows of gay carriages stretches up the hill and ap-
parently awayinto space. Private carriages (about 400 reis: ls. 9d.
an hour) alone can pass.


8
About 150 yds. up the Avenue on the left is an hydraulic engine
by which ascend (1d.) to the Pluscio do S. Pedro d'AIcantara whence
there is a good view of the Avenida and the environs of the town,
straggling away in a succession of clumps of houses which crown
the neigbbouring hills more like robbers strongholds than peaceful
Settlements.
From here visit the sumptuous church of SAC Room: and do not
omit to enter the chapel of St. John the Baptist of which the gorgeous
interior is hidden by a screen and curtain (sacristan, fee from Is. to
2s.). The 77L0$lli68 after Guido Reni, Raphael, and Michael Angelo
were executed in Rome and the marbles used in constructing the
altar and columns are scarcely surpassed in value by the lapis
lazuli and massive silver ornaments they support.
Those who have an hour to spare should now walk or drive to the
JARDIM DA ESTRELLA which commands the finest view of Lisbon.
The Church is attractive and of considerable artistic merit. A
return may be made past the Cortes (House of Parliament) and
Market Place.
The stay in Lisbon does not often allow of more sight-seeing if
any time is to be spent in the attractive shops between Black
Horse Square and the Praca Dom Pedro (Rocio). Of these the Rue
d’Augusta. the Rua do Ouro and the Rue. do. Prata are the princi-
pal ; the various trades are allotted their respective quarters as was
the case among the Moors.
The Sit or CATHEDRAL just above the Custom House contains
little to interest the ordinary tourist, though it is here and in some
of the suburbs that the only existing traces of the great earthquake
of 1755 are to be found.
_ The first land sighted by those ships not touching at Lisbon is
the Madeira, population 140,000.
After rounding the lighthouse the villages of Canical, Machico
and Santa Cruz are passed in the order named and anchor is
dropped opposite the capital.
I‘unchal, lat. 32° 38' N, long. 16° 55' W, population 30,000, a
picturesque town situated in a species of vast amphitheatre of
which the blue sea forms the floor. On the arrival of vessels the water
is covered by a crowd of little boats plying for hire or filled with
numberless native manufactures for sale, manned by half-naked boys
who earn a damp sort of living by diving for threepenny pieces.
Wicker chairs, Madeira embroidery, lace, jewellery, &c. are ofiered
at various prices and the deck is rapidly converted into a fair with
a full accompaniment of shouts and yells from the anxious vendors.
On shore there are several large shops or bazaars where purchases
can sometimes be made on better terms.
Boats for the shore cost from Is. to 2s. return according to
the time of day. Those carrying parcels must be passed through
. the Custom House. Hammocks cost 400 reis : about 1s. 9d. an
hour.
Haida—Reid's New Hotel, the Santa Clara, the Carmo, the
' Royal Edinburgh, the Hortas, all belonging to Mr. Reid ;—J ones’


9

Bella Vista ;—Cardwell’s Victoria. In addition to this there are
several Boarding Houses and a few fair Portuguese Hotels. English
Hotels 8s. to 12s. ;—Portuguese 5s. to 7s. a day.
For Advertisements see pages 59 to 61.
For full and exhaustive particulars about Madeira see Brown’s
Madeira and the Canary Islands, 0!. Practical and Complete Guide for
vthe use of Iuvalids and Tourists. Sampson Low, & C0., 2s. 6d.
(Second Edition).
’ Those desirous of seeing the town should at once take a bullock
carro to the MOUNT CHURCH (Nossa Senhora do Monte) telling the
driver to follow the Saltos Road (1500 reis=about 6s. 6d. for parties
not exceeding three persons). The view from the top is extremely
fine and the best way'to descend is by running carro, a species of
sledge guided by a running boy (350 reis or about 1s. 6d. each).
Time necessary from 11} to 2 hours. There are several Churches,
that best worth seeing being the Sé or Cathedral. A railway is
beingbuilt up to Mount Church.
Although many of the public buildings are not devoid of merit it
is the peculiarities of costume and domestic architecture which will
most interest the passer-by. As the streets are all paved with highly
polished cobble stones, those who wish to explore the town should
wear boots with soft soles, preferably of india-rubber. Whatever may
be the season of the year the market place is well supplied with
tropical and other fruits, and each passer-by, from the hammock-
bearers in their white linen clothes to the peasant in his strange and
often grotesque head-gear, excites the attention of those going South
even if not for the first time. The public gardens are prettily laid
out and if it is not too late in the day the fish as well as the fruit
market should be visited. The fame of Madeira as a health resort
is now of such ancient date that no more need be said at present
.on the subject than that the presence of Englishmen of taste and
means during so many years has led to the introduction of many
liixuries and enjoyments which would otherwise have remained
a sent.
Tenerifi'e, population 95000. (Brown’s Madeira and the Canary
Islands, In complete and practical Guide for the use 0/‘ hwalids and
Tourists. Sampson Low, & 00., 2s. 6d. Second Edition.)
In clear weather long before reaching the island the white sum-
mit of the celebrated “Peak” 12192 ft., will be seen above the
horizon. Little by little the dark mass of which it forms the
centre grows in importance until Anaga Point is rounded and the
ship runs into smooth water under the razor-backed hills of Anaga
of which the weather—worn sides are thickly covered with the pale
green tufts of the euphorbia cmmricusis. The great influx of invalids
and tourists during the last few years and the new hotels and comforts
created by their demands are likely to cause the island to become
more and more fashionable as time goes on.
For Advertisements, see pages 27 81, 84.
Passing the villages of Igueste and San Andres anchor is cast
opposite the capital of the province. -


10
Santa, Cruz, lat. 28° 28' long. N, 16° 15' W, population 20,000, a
somewhat densely built town not too well provided with water and
giving in consequence an unfavourable impression to those who
have no time to travel inland. The town, owing to this disadvantage,
has been unable to extend itself as otherwise would have been the
case, and has consequently suffered in popularity; Orotava, 27 miles
away on the north of the island is the favourite resort of visitors.
Santa Cruz however is gradually gaining in reputation for cases of
asthma, bronchitis and throat diseases.
Boats for the shore are officially one peseta (ten pence) each way
before sunset and double after but bargains should be made. There
are no duties affecting passengers or luggage.
Hotcla—Camacho’s and the International, both 8s. to 10s. a day ;—
Spanish, Benigno Ramos, 4s. to 6s. and others.
Owing to the Canary Islands being a free port the conditions are
especially favourable for the purchase of cigars, many of which are
very good, Florida water, tricopherous and similar essences. The
native knick-knacks are few consisting chiefly of flowers made from
fishes’ scales. Pulled linen is sometimes offered for sale at moderate
prices and occasionally Canary knives or small barrels, &c., from
Palma can be obtained.
Passengers are landed on a stone jetty which is being lengthened
so as to form a harbour where vessels can unload alongside.
The general character of the town is picturesque and pleasing,
no other in the Canaries affording a more complete example of
the various styles of patios (courtyards) and wooden balconies
peculiar to this island and Palma, although some isolated specimens
elsewhere may be individually more handsome. The miravio'rs or
view-towers placed on the roofs prevent any uniformity, and the
projecting caves and long wooden gargoyles help to lend shade,
effect and depth to the sunny streets and lanes. The two hand-
somest patios are that of the GOBIERNO CIVIL on the Plaza de la
Constitucion and that of the well-known house of Messrs. HAMILTON
dz Co. which was formerly a convent.
The IGLESIA (Church) DE SAN FRANCISCO is the finest. The
roof in parts is a good adaptation of the old Moorish style. The
CATHEDRAL is a dark poorly‘decorated building of no architectural
merit whatever, and contains two British Flags in a case, picked
up on the beach after the repulse of N elson who lost his arm on the
mole near the landing stage, in 1796.
The Market Place (la Plaza) seems to be the chief attraction for
those who land; very good oranges can as a rule be bought there.
The pleasantest walk, ride or drive (carriages 71} pes=6s. ; don-
keys, 2 pes.) is along the level coast road to the north east of the town
which leads toward the Valley Bufadero and San Andres under
overhanging clifis. Some pretty views up the ravines are obtained.
The road is still in course of construction. Time necessary 2 hours.
If by chance suflicient time is given, a carriage should be hired
to LAGUNA, 1840 feet, the old capital of the island. There and
back 3% to 4 hours. Fare 8s.


11
About one hour from Laguna along a rough road where carriages
can pass in fine weather is a village called Mercedes which, although
3 hours drive from Santa Cruz, is only about 4;- miles as the crow
flies. The village lies at the entrance of a most glorious forest of
laurels and heather growing respectively to a height of sixty and
twenty-five feet. It is well worth visiting if chance allows of the
necessary time (6 to 7 hours). Fare, 12s.
It may be mentioned that it was from Tenerifle that the old
Malmsey was exported in which the Duke of Clarence was drowned,
the vine having been imported from Madeira where it was first
planted by Prince Henry of Portugal about the year 1460.
Grand Canary, population 75,000. (Brown's Madeira and the
Canary Islands. Sampson Low, & 00., 2s. 6d. Second Edition.)
Anchor is cast in the Puerto de la Luz, a new harbour protected
by an important breakwater and by the sandy Isthmus joining the
promontory known as the Isleta to the mainland. Smooth water
is practically secured inside the works, and vessels of considerable
size can moor alongside.
Landing charges 1s. each, double after sunset.
There is nothing to see in the harbour itself and a conveyance
should be taken to the town, 35» miles distant. Private carriages to
hold six, 4s. ; tramway, 1st class, 3d ; 2nd class, 2d. -
1,3,5 Palmas, capital of Grand Canary, population 20,000. Lat.
28° 7' N., long. 15° 25’ W.
Hulda—Santa Catalina. Between the port and the town, Santa
Catalina, BS. to 12s. a day ;—Metropole, same charges :—in the
town, Quiney’s, 6s. to 10s. ;—Spanish, Europa ;—Cuatro Naciones,
5s. to 7s.
For Advertisements, see pages 4, 61.
The most important public building is the CATHEDRAL com-
menced early in the sixteenth century in the heavy Spanish
flamboyant style of architecture and still unfinished. Opposite
are the municipal buildings where a MUSEUM on the top floor
contains a number of Guanche remains (uncatalogued). There are
several churches but none of any great interest. ~
Las Palmas is probably the most pushing town in the Canaries
and the chief street, the Triana, generally presents a busy appear-
ance. The stonework of the principal houses is decidedly good and
the Canary quarries would be very valuable if nearer Europe. The
railing for instance round the square in front of the cathedral was
made by local workmen paid at the rate of about 28. a day, but the
quarries are mere surface scratchings as there is no demand to
allow of sinking shafts. The part of the town known as the Santo
Espirito is of some architectural merit and the new opera-house
is large and well designed; elsewhere with few exceptions, the
buildings are decidedly utilitarian.
Near the Opera House is the market where in a good season the
most delicious oranges in the world may be purchased. The
writer once weighed five oranges taken from a selected basket and
Iound them average 9% ounces each. The skins are so thin that


13

Coast Service.
The Coast Service is performed principally by the two
Mail lines, the large ocean-going vessels calling at Port
Elizabeth, East London and Durban, and a smaller fleet
at Mossel Bay, the Knysna and the East Coast ports (for
rates, &o., see page 4). The Clan, Natal and Aberdeen
Direct Lines or their connections touch at most of the same
ports, but not so regularly. When possible it is much better
to take the large boats as the sea in these parts is seldom
calm enough to render travelling in a small ship pleasant.
Cape Town is the only harbour in British South Africa
where the largest steamers can lie alongside the wharf ; in
every other instance passengers are landed and conveyed on
board by tugs into which they are sometimes lowered by
means of a large basket. At Durban vessels drawing 17ft.
of water and at East London ships of 4000 tons can enter.
At Knysna boats which can cross the bar can also reach the
wharf, whilst at Delagoa Bay and at Beira vessels lie in
smooth water.
Note—Passengers are landed free of charge at their
destination, but must go on board at their own expense.
Clothing.
There are good shops in all the towns and it is unneces-
sary to carry much luggage. The clothing worn is much'
the same as in England but somewhat lighter and the
stove- pipe hat never appears to have become thoroughly
acclimatised.
Over one hundred years ago Cape Town won for itself the
name of “ Little Paris” and the ladies of to-day certainly do
their best by their elaborate toilettes to uphold its reputa-
tion.
An erroneous idea prevails with many people that cold
weather is never experienced in South Africa. Although
there is nothing approaching the severity of an English
winter yet on the high table-lands frost is frequent and the
mountain ranges are often covered with snow. The cold is
sometimes bitterly felt when travelling in winter from the


' l4
coast plateau to the high table-lands of the interior, when a
few hours’ journey will bring about a change of level
amounting to several thousand feet and consequently a
very considerable fall in the temperature which can only
be guarded against by additional clothing.
On the voyage a coarse tweed suit which will not show
the dirt, a black coat and waistcoat for dinner, plenty of
clean linen, a sutficiency of flannels for the tropics, some
deck shoes and a lounge chair, which last may be bought in
Madeira, are the necessities. Ladies should prefer stuff to
cotton dresses and will do well to keep one evening dress
handy.
Custom Dutles and Rebates on Passengers lug-
gage and Agricultural implements.
The Customs Union Tariff which includes Cape Colony
and 0, Free State is as follows-—
Guns, 20s. per barrel; pistols and revolvers, 5s. each ; cut tobacco,
2s. per 1b.; cigars, 4s. per lb. and 10%; cartridges and saddlery,
clothing, dress materials, &c., when unused, 12%; gunpowder, 6d.
per lb. ; agricultural machinery, fencing, 610. free; ploughs, &c., 10%.
Natal duties are similar except that saddlery, &c., is
only 5%., and ploughs, &c., are free. Blankets, rugs, &c.,
are 15%. .
Transvaal duties are-—
Guns, 105. per barrel ; pistols and revolvers, 10s. each; cut to‘
bacco, 2s. 6d. per 1b.; cigars, 15s. per 100; cartridges, 5s. per mil.;
gunpowder, 6d. ; in addition to an ad 'valm'cm duty of 3%. Saddlery,
&c., is covered by the said 7§%, which is levied on everything.
Goods entering through Cape Colony pay Cape Colony duties
as well, less the following REBATES. Tobacco, 1s. 6d. per lb. ;
cigars, 3s. 6d.; saddlery, &c., 7%.—Entering through Natal the
REBATES are—Guns, 2s. 6d. per barrel; pistols and revolvers, 2s. 6d.
each; tobacco, 1s. 6d. and cigars 3s. 6d. per lb.
Productions of the 0. Free State enter free.
Coinage.
The coinage in use throughout South Africa is the same
as in Great Britain except in the Portuguese possessions and
in the Transvaal where, however, English gold passes. The
local terms “tikkie” and “dollar” frequently heard, represent
respectively 3d. and ls 6d. English bank notes are usually
subjected to a charge of 1


15

Notes of local banks for 10/, £1, £5, £10, £20, £50 are
accepted everywhere. Copper money is seldom seen beyond
the coast districts and is never used in the Transvaal, pay-
ments of 1d. or 2d., when necessary, being made in postage
stamps.
Portuguese money is used at Delagoa Bay and higher
up the East Coast and is reckoned at 1000 reis = 1 dollar
= 4/5%, English money with the exchange at 4500 reis to
the sovereign; 4/ when at 5000 reis; 3/4 when at 6000
reis; and so on.
Weights and Measures.
English weights are in general use but Dutch measures
for land and bulk predominate.
1 leaguer = 152 Dutch Gallons = 126;— Eng. Gals.
1 = n n = n n
l aum = 38 ,, ,, = 31:11; ,, ,,
1 anker = a: n = n n
1 Dutch Gallon = .7895 Eng. Gal.
1 English = 1.2666 Dut. Gal.
91% Dutch lbs. = 100 English lbs.
1 carat (diamond measure) = 4 grs. (120 crts. = 1 oz.).
1000 Cape feet = 1,033 Eng. feet.
12 Cape feet = 1 Cape Rood — 12.396 Eng. ft.
425.944 ,, ,, 1 ,, mile.
Square measure.
144 sq. Cape ft. = 1 sq. Cape Rood.
6 ,, ,,l = 1 Cape morgen.
l morgen = 2.11654 Eng. acres.
_1 sq. mile (Eng) = 302.38 Cape morgens.
The reply to inquiries regarding distance will invariably
be so many “ hours,” the Dutchmen having no knowledge of
miles and measuring all distances by the time it will take
him to ride them. The hour may be reckoned as a little
more than 6 miles.
This primitive method prevails to such an extent that the
recognised lip-country method of measuring a farm in a new
district is to ride a half hour in each direction, Fizz, north,
east, south and west, so as to describe a square, the rider
lll


16
returning to the point from which he started at the end of
two hours. The square is supposed to measure rather more
than three miles each way, which allows about 10 sq. miles
or 3000 morgens to the farm. Any natural tendency to the
undue use of whip and spur is met by a prospective tax on
any excess land beaconed off‘, which seems to have been fairly
effective, but history has yet to record an instance of the
“ poor simple-minded ” Boer pegging out on too small a scale.
Accommodation.
Hotels. When away from the larger cities travellers in
South Africa have never asked for luxury and very few
hotels have offered it to them. Rough and ready manners
and a liberal but coarse bill of fare were, until recently,
considered rather the correct thing in this extremely re-
publican country. The example set by the steamships and
by most of the hotels in the leading towns is however
rapidly effecting a great change, and the growing influx of
pleasure and health seek'ers is compelling the landlords to
think more of their guests and less of their bar. In most
of the chief inland resorts special quarters have been pro-
vided for this new class and there is no doubt that the old-
fashioned landlord must at once change his ways or be out
out by his more enterprising competitors. The large
centres, in some instances are very well provided and there
are few towns at home of the same size that could compete
with them in this particular. In the country districts of
Cape Colony, Natal and the Free State, however
small the village the traveller will find at least one inn
where in the great majority of cases he will meet with com-
fortable and cleanly quarters.
In the Transvaal, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Potchefs-
troom, Klerksdorp, &c., are all provided with commodious
hotels and good inns are to be found along the old established
coach routes. Meat of an inferior quality is abundant, but
vegetables and fruit are always dear and from time to time
fetch fabulous prices. In the small villages and particularly


17
at the remote coach outspans matters are worse. The
hotels are almost always of corrugated iron, frequently not
even lined, and a bed is a luxury not always obtainable. In
the more remote districts resource must he often had to the
Dutch farmers who are generally, but not always, willing to
supply the best food and sleeping accommodation they have
to offer for a fair remuneration (forage for the cattle about
Is. a bundle).
In the information furnished on the various towns a list
of the principal hotels is always given. Speaking in a general
way the charges are fairly moderate and so uniform that it
is quite unnecessary to affix them in each instance to the
name of the hotel although this has been done where it-
has seemed to be of any advantage. In all case the prices
are inclusive of lights and attendance and no gratuities are
expected except for special services.
Hotel Tarifi's.
Cape Colony, Natal andp. Free State.‘
In the large towns the principal hotels charge 10s. and
in a few cases (specified) 12s. 6d. per day; smaller hotels,
6s. to 8s. 6d. In the small villages the charge is 6s. to
8s. 6d.
When a protracted stay is made in one place a reduction
of charges can always be obtained, the usual terms per week
for first class hotels being £3, and for less pretentious esta-
blishments £2 2s., whilst a still further reduction will
generally be made for the month. When staying five days
in a place it is usually cheaper to book at once for a week.
The Transvaal.
Charges are about 25% higher, 'w'zx, for the large hotels,
12s. 6d. and in one or two instances 15s. to 20s.; smaller
hotels, 10s. (id. to 11s. 6d.
In all parts of South Africa boarding houses are to
be found in the large towns charging from £5 to £7 10s. a
month or 25s. per week upwards.


CAPE COLONY. POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH’REGULATIONS.


£532? 1:5‘: 5:3 BOOK AND SAMPLE PARCEL Pos'r. MONEY ORDERS. TELEGRAMS.
Within the limits of 1d. §d. 1d.per2oz. (1 oz. 13d.) 2d. per 1 1b., 8d. per 1b., Not exceeding £1 ls. per 10words;
the Cape Colony Limit weight 5 lbs. and 8d. per additional (3d.), £5 (1s.), every addit. 5
and 0. Free State, ,, size 24"x 9” x 6" lb. or fract. of a lb. £10 (2s.) words 6d.
except for money Limit—7 lbs., length
orders 3’ 6", or girth & long. 6’
N atal, 0. Free State, 2d. id. Do. Do. £2 (9d), £5 (1s.6d.), Do.
Transvaal, Bechu- £10 (3s.)
analand
Mashonaland 4d. 1d. 1d. 1 oz.; 2d. 2 4 oz. 11d. ; 8 oz. 1s. 2d.; 10 words 35. 6d.,
oz.; 3d. 4 oz. and 12 oz. ls. 5d. ; 1 lb. then 3d. per
fractions. Limits 1s. 8d. and fractions. word.
same. Limits same.
United Kingdom 251. 1d. 3d. per 4 oz.—limits, From 0. Town 9d. per 1b., D0. 8s. 11d. per word
books 4 lbs., sam- and9d.addit.fractions;
pies 5' lbs. other offices 1s. per 1b.,
&c. ' Limits—11 lbs.
girth and length 6’
Postal Union 3d. 2d. 2d. per 2 oz.—limits, From 0. Town ls. 6d. per Do., plus a deduc. 8s. 7d. to 9s. 4d.





on arrival of—
under £2 (3d.),
under £10 (1s.)

per word


Natal P. and T. Regulations are almost identical except that Books and Samples go all over South Africa (except Mashonaland)
at 2 oz. for id. (minimum foreign rate 2Qd). Limit of size and weight of parcels differs in some cases.
books 4 lbs., sam-
ples 8 to 12 oz.
1b.; other oflices 3d.ext.
Limit from 6;» to 11 lbs.
Transvaal and Postal Union are 2 oz for .}d. Letters between the two Colonies are 2d. per } oz.
Newspapers to the
SI


61
TRANSVAAL AND ORANGE FREE STATE.



v, 7 Il
$23,301:? 281;‘??? BOOK fiogsAmm‘E PARCEL Pos'r. l MONEY ORDERS. TELEGRAMS.
' l I ‘
Within limits of any 1d. 5d. 1d. per oz.-limit 3’ , Within Rep. or be- 1 1s. for 10 words ;
town long x 1'6" wide ' tween Rep. and every eddit. 5
Natal, £1 (3d.), words 6d.
‘ £5 (13.), £10 (2s.) 1
All other parts of S. 2d. 22d. Do. 3d. per 4 oz. and fractions. To F. State and C. 1 Do.
Africa except Ma- Limit—3’ x 1’ 6" Colony, £2 (9d),
Bhonaland £5 (ls. 6d.), £l0
‘ (38.) 1
United Kingdom 2%(1. 1d. 3d. for 4 oz. 1s. 3d. per lb. £2 (ls. 6d.), £5 1 9s. 2d. per word
‘ (2s.3d.), £10 (4a)
Continent of Europe 4d. 2d. 4d. per 4 oz. ; 2d. per Rather more 1‘ £2 (1s. 6d.), £5 As in the Colon’l



4
1
l
2s.3d.), £10 (4a), 5
plus deduc. as
under C. Colony ,
list, plus the
overl'd charge


Newspapers in the Orange Free State may be posted free of charge.
NOTE—There are several firms, having agencies in all the principal towns of South Africa, who undertake the delivery of
parcels, &c., with this decided advantage, that all charges, including duty, &c., can be paid at once by the sender.
2 oz. additional
Index of Advertisers, Parcels and Forwarding Agents.)
( See
_‘ .,.<;
l


20
Language.
English is spoken over the greater part of the civilised
portions of South Africa, and only in the remote country
districts among the Boer farmers can Dutch be said to have
held its own as the national language.
In the western portions of Cape Colony the country people
are mainly Dutch but it is rare to find a man who is unable
to speak the two languages. Further east the influx of the
English settlers of 1820 has turned the scale and in Port
Elizabeth there is not even a Dutch church.
In Natal Dutch is seldom heard and English is the only
language spoken in Government circles, whereas in Cape
Colony members may address the House of Assembly in
their mother tongue.
In the Transvaal English is not recognised in any form
and may not be spoken in Government offices. The whole
trade of that country, however, with a few trifling excep-
tions, is in the hands of the English-speaking population,
and even in Pretoria very little Dutch is heard except in
Government circles and on the market square.
This so-called “Dutch," is a very rude patois of the
language spoken in Holland, this last being here generally
termed “high Dutch.” Cape Dutch can only be learned
from actual intercourse with the Boers as it cannot be said
to have any grammar; no distinctions are made as to
genders and adjectives are not inflected. The negative is
always doubled, perhaps a bastard form of the French
“ne—pas”.
Strong efforts have been made by the patriotic party
among the Boers to obtain the recognition of this dialect as
the national language of South Africa, but with its paucity
of vocabulary and other inherent defects it is impossible
that it should hold its own against the English and its total
extinction can only be a question of a few generations.
Very little printed matter exists beyond a few newspapers
and ballads, Government documents being written almost
exclusively in “high Dutch”.
Most of the newspapers published throughout the country


21

are in English and the following figures amply demonstrate
the ascendancy of that language.
Newspapers published in—
The Colony . . ' English 64 Dutch 7
Bechuanaland . . ,, 2 ,, 0
Natal . . . ,, 7 ,, 0
Orange Free State . ,, 2 ,, l
Transvaal . . . ,, _19 ,, 3
Total . . ,, 94 ,, l 1
The native languages are of far greater interest to
the philologist. These appear to fall into three sections, the
Bantu, Hottentot and Bushman.
Bantu is by far the most widely spread and includes
the Zulu proper and all afliliated dialects. It has great
power of expression and the abundant vowel terminations
render it highly euphonious. There are three varieties
of clicks, expressed in writing by o, q and x, which can
seldombe acquired by an adult. It is mainly inflected
by prefixes; '
The Hottentot language was formerly in much more
general use than it is today. Situated as the Hottentots
were in the westem portions of the Colony they came more
directly under the influence of the Dutch settlers, with the
result that the Boer pail/2's in the course of- generations has
all but annihilated their own language which is now spoken
by onlya few wandering tribes. The Hottentot tongue
abounds in clicks, far more so than the Bantu. It is
however more highly developed, possessing three
numbers, singular, dual and plural and is mainly inflected
by aflixes.
The Bushman language appears to be a collection
of clicks modified by grunts, these last, absent in the
other South African dialects, being said to bear a wonderful
resemblance to the different cries of the baboon. The
plurals of nouns are frequently formed by reduplication
and it is stated that no numeral higher than three
exists.


22
The only branch of the above languages that the ordinary
visitor is likely to come into contact with is the so-called
“ Kitchen Kaffir,” closely allied to the Zulu, which is
spoken by the mixed native servants of Natal. This appears
to be picked up without much difliculty by Europeans resid-
ing in the country.
Vocabulary.
The following Dutch words are in general use throughout
the country either in conversation or combined to form
names of places and many will be constantly met with even
among English speaking communities.
Berg, - - mountain.
Boschveld, - open plain covered with bush.
Daal, - - valley.
Dorp, - - town, village.
Drift, - - ford.
Fontein, - - spring.
Inspan, - - to harness, to start.
Karroo - - Hottentot for a dry place in which sense it
is sometimes used in this book.
Kloof, - - ravine, valley.
Kop, Kopje, - hill.
Kmntz, - - cliff‘, precipice.
Poort, - - opening between mountains.
Sluit, - - ditch, gutter, stream.
Stad, - - town, village. _
Steep, - - platform in front of house.
Trek, - - journey or distance travelled.
Veld, - - an open plain.
Vlei, - - hollow filled with water in rainy season.
Uitspan, - - to unharness, to halt.
The best Grammar is “Efiler’s Dutch Grammar” which
contains many Cape idiomatic phrases but is of little service.
Fluency in speaking can only be attained by actual inter-
course with the Boers.


23

Rent, 830.
Living is fairly cheap in Cape Colony and Nata],
house rent being the most expensive item, but this of course
varies very considerably in different localities, though it may
be taken as fairly accurate that a cottage of five or six rooms
will cost £5 per month in any of the large colonial towns.
The Transvaal at present is in a state of transition and
rents vary from day to day. They have recently fallen
considerably in all the large centres, but may still be taken
as about double the colonial charges.
A labourer’s cottage with four rooms would range from
£2 to £4 10s. per month.
Domestic Servants and Labourers.
The standing grievance, as at home, is with servants
whose number is unfortunately below the demand and their
consequent independence is not conducive to the comfort
of the householder. The majority of servants in Cape
COlOny are coloured women, neither very trustworthy
nor accomplished and with an absolutely stoical disregard
for cleanliness in any shape or form. Their wages vary
from 10s. to 25s. per month. A better class are the St.
Helena natives who can be obtained by application to the
Government agent on payment of a small sum towards their
passage money. In Natal the house-servants are usually
of Indian or Zulu origin, and women are seldom met with,
a condition of‘ affairs with obvious disadvantages. In the
Free State and Transvaal the servants are nearly
always natives, ignorant and dirty but more inclined to work
than in countries more philanthropically governed.
White servants are obtainable but their wages are very
high and‘ being in demand, they seldom stay long in one
place. A family coming from England with the intention of
staying any length of time would do well to bring at least
one good servant with them.
Coloured agricultural labourers, who are most unsatis-
factory, are fed_ and receive from 10s. to 15s. a month. In
the neighbourhood of mines or Government works labour is


24
scarce and wages higher. For imported Indian labour in
Natal see page 74.
White Laboun—Of all classes in South Africa the
skilled artisan is best off. The constant building, opening
up of mines, &e., which is going on find them employment
at wages varying from 9s. to 17 s. 6d. per day, or sometimes
more, according to locality. The labourer earns from 5s. to
10s. per day but is never employed on farms or where black
men can take his place except occasionally in Natal. Any
sober man who is willing to work is almost sure to do well
sooner or later. It is to be hoped that more encouragement
to the ycoman class of British emigrants will be offered by
Government in the future than is the case at present.
Railways.
Prior to the end of 1890 the railways of South Africa
were confined to the English Colonies excepting only a short
line from Delagoa Bay in Portuguese territory. At four
points the railways terminated almost on the boundary lines
of the Dutch Republics which for several years proved an
impassable barrier- to further advance. This prejudice
against the 'iron horse has however been overcome, and a
reaction has set in amounting almost to a railway mania
which promises in a few years to cover the Republics with a
net-work of rails.
The present Cape Colony system is divided into three
sections, the Western, Midland and Eastern.
THE WESTERN SECTION consists of a line from Cape Town
to Vrijburg, 774 miles, with short branch lines to Malms-
bury, Stellenbosch, Simons Town and Sir Lowry’s Pass. It
is connected with the Midland Section by a line from De
Aar to Naauwpoort Junction, 69 miles long, and is rapidly
advancing northward from Vrijburg, m7; Mafeking, towards
the Chartered Company’s territory.
THE MIDLAND SECTION consists of a line from Port Eliza-
beth to N orvals Pont on the Free State Frontier, 328 miles
long, a branch line to Grahamstown, 35 miles long and
another to Graaf Reinet 177 miles. It includes under a


25
working management the new Orange Free State trunk line
and is connected with the Eastern Section by a line from
Middleburg Road to Stormberg, 11 miles north of Mol‘teno,
83 miles long.
THE EASTERN SECTION runs from the port of East
London to Aliwal North, 280 miles, with a branch line to
King Williams Town, 10 miles, and is connected with the
Orange Free State trunk line by a line from Albert Junction,
3 miles north of Burghersdorp, to Springfontein, 67 miles
long.
All the above lines amounting to over 1800 miles are
Government property, and are constructed on the 3' 6”_ gauge.
Private Railways.
There are several private lines. The largest from Port
Nolloth to O’okiep (Namaqualand) nearly 100 miles long,
has been built by private enterprise to facilitate the trans-
port of copper ore to the coast. This is the only line in
the country on the 2' 6" gauge. ,
The Central Railway runs from Worcester to Ash-
ton, 42 miles, and in the future will, it is to be hoped,
form part of an important line through the fertile coast
provinces.
Another private line is the Kowie from Grahamstown
to Port Alfred 43 miles.
There is also a small railway running between Cape Town
and Sea Point.
Natal.
A line runs from Durban to Charlestown on the border of
the Transvaal with branch lines to Verulam, 19 mile, and
Isipingo, 11 miles on the coast. From Ladysmith Junction
rails have been laid over the Drakensberg Mountains to
Harrismith in the Free State, 60 miles, which will eventually
meet the Bloemfontein-Vaal trunk line near Kronstad.
From Glencoe Junction a line, 7-; miles long, runs to the
Dundee Coal Fields. The main line running through
Pietermaritzburg to Charlestown is 304 miles long. The


26
hilly nature of the country has necessitated the almost
continuous use of heavy gradients and sharp curves, only
4-7 miles being on the level. The northern terminus is
5386 feet above sea level, but owing to the undulating
nature of the country a rise of no less than 13,350 feet
has to be negotiated between Durban and that point, equal
to a continuous ascending gradient of l in 120.
At the close of 1892 there were 406% miles open and it
cannot be long before Charlestown is connected with
Pretoria, &c.
~ Orange Free State.
The trunk line connecting Cape Town with Johannesburg
and working in connection with the Cape Colony railways
crosses the Orange River and enters the Free State at N orvals
Pont, and runs through Bloemfontein, 121 miles, to Viljoens
Drift on the Vaal River where it connects with the Trans-
vaal system. A branch line from Springfontein to Albert
Junction, 67 miles long, also connects it with the East
London system vii Bethulie.
Another line from Harrismith is mentioned above under
heading of Natal.
The Transvaal.
A line from Pretoria, 36 miles long, joins the Boksburg
branch at Germiston, 11 miles east of Johannesburg, and has
been completed as far as Viljoens Drift on the Vaal where
it meets the Orange Free State trunk line running rid
Bloemfontein to Cape Town. The Boksburg branch runs
from Boksburg through Germiston (Elandsfontein Junction),
along the main reef to Johannesburg and on to Krugersdorp,
a total length of 36 miles.
Another railway is in course of construction from Pretoria,
rid Middelburg to Komati Poort, 296 miles, where it
connects with the Lorenzo Marques (Delagoa Bay) line, 56
miles long. There will be branches running to Barberton
and Leydsdorp. The first will be 40 miles long and will
join the main line 45 west of Komati Poort. The second


27
will run from Komati itself straight for the low country
gold fields and the Zoutpansberg Mountains. The main line
passes for a short distance through difficult country and in
one place will reach a gradient of l in 20 necessitating a
rackwork arrangement for heavy trains. The estimated cost,
£5422 per mile, is exceptionally heavy for South Africa.
Later on Pretoria will be connected with Natal m'izl
Heidelberg, Standerton and Charlestown, and with Ma-
shonaland vii} Pietersburg and Fort Tuli.
Portuguese Territory.
A line 56 miles long from Lorenzo Marques to Komati
Poort, built by British capitalists, is now worked by the
Portuguese Government.
Another railway, also built by British capital, runs from
Fontesvilla. on the Pungwe River, 45 miles above Beira, to
Chemoyo, a distance of 85 miles, Guage, 2’ 6".
Chartered Gompany’s Territory (Mashona-
land, 8:0.)
The above mentioned railway from the Pungwe River is
intended to find a temporary terminus at Massikessi, which
is on the high veldt and where it joins the metalled high
road to Umtali, Fort Salisbury, &0.
Railway Regulations.
CAPE CoLoNv.
Fares, with a few exceptions, are charged at the rate of
3d., 2d., and 1d. per mile for first, second, and third class
respectively. Reductions are made on tickets for most of
the long distance journeys. Considerable reductions are
also made on the Wynbcrg suburban line.
Return tickets are charged at one and a half times the
single fare.
Return tickets from stations north of De Aar or Colesberg
to Cape Town are available to Port Elizabeth on the home-
ward journey.


28
Children under 3 years old are free 'if accompanied by
other passengers. Between 3 and 12 they travel half price.
Ordinary tickets are available for the following periods :—
Single. Return.
Under 24 miles, - - 1 day] are 2 days Exclusive of
24 miles to 100 miles, 3 ,, 6 ,, days of issue
101 miles to 350 miles, 6 ,, g g 14 ,, and arrival.
Over 350 miles, - - 8 ,, m 21 1 Calendar month.
Over 450 miles, 3 Calendar months.
Passengers holding single or return tickets for distances
over 20 miles may break their journey at intermediate
stations.
Parties of four persons or more holding first-class tickets
may secure a reserved compartment for their exclusive use
on application to the Station Master.
Luggage. Each passenger is allowed to carry free with a
1st class ticket, 100 lbs. ; 2nd class, 50 lbs. ; 3rd class,
25 lbs. Children over 3 and under 12 are allowed half this
amount.
Extra luggage is charged as follows :—
1-25 miles, - '- - - kd. per lb.
26-50 ,, - - - - ad- ,.
50-100,, - - - - id. ,,
For every 100 miles or part of 100 miles beyond the first
100 up to 900, id. per lb. additional, after which a uniform
I rate of 3d. per lb. is charged.
Tourists’ circular tickets are issued at £15. 1st class, and
£10. 2nd class, as follows :—
(1) From Cape Town to Kimberley, Colesberg, Gra-
hamstown, Port Elizabeth, and Graaf Reinet and
back, or the same round can be made starting
from and returning to any one of the said stations.
(2) A more extended town, which includes all the
Government lines in Cape Colony and the Free
State costs £25 10s. 1st class, and £17. 2nd class.
These tickets entitle their holders to break their journey


29
at any intermediate station but do not allow of travelling
more than once in the same direction over any portion of the
line. They are available for three months from date of
issue.
In consulting railway time tables it must be borne in mind
that on the whole Cape railway system (including the
Bloemfontein-Pretoria trunk line), Cape mean time is kept
namely, 22%0 E. of Greenwich. The Natal railways reckon
from Durban time.
At mid-day, Cape Town, the local time at the following
places will be :—

Beaufort West, - - 1 2' 17 Kimberley, - - ~ 12 ' 25
Vrij burg, - - - - 1 2 ‘ 25 Bloemfontein, - - l2 ' 3 2
Port Elizabeth, - - 12'29 Grahamstown, - - 12'32 %
Craaf Reinet, - - - 1225 King Williams T’n, 1236
East London, - - - 12 '38 Pretoria, - - - 1241
Durban, - - - - l 2'50 Del-agoa Bay, - - 12'57

Halts are made at various stations on the road for refresh-
ment,‘but the mail trains are provided with dining room
cars. Meals 2s. 6d. each.
The Natal railways are managed on similar lines, the
basis of fares and luggage allowance being the same. Re-
turn tickets are charged one and a half times the single
fare, and extend over three months irrespective of distance.
No 3rd class return tickets are issued.
Passengers on night trains can obtain tickets entitling
them to sleeping accommodation on payment of 5s. extra.
The Transvaal railway regulations are the same except
that the fares are 3d., 2T4Ud., and li‘tvd. per mile, and that
children between 3 and 12 pay the fare of the class below
_that they travel in. On local trains 50 lbs. of luggage is
allowed to all classes. (Cape mean time.)
Passenger Coaches.
The railways have replaced the coaching lines in Cape
Colony and Natal, and the cross-country traveller must
either hire his own cart, which will cost him about 40s. per


30
day, or trust to the mail carts which charge about 6d. per
mile. In the latter case the journey is generally a rough
one as no special accommodation is provided for passengers
who have to take their chance with the mail bags. If a
party of two or three are travelling together a private con-
veyance will not prove more expensive.
In the Dutch Republics, and more particularly in the
Transvaal, the enormous passenger traffic and want of rail-
ways have called forth some splendidly appointed coach
services between the principal centres; unfortunately how-
ever the roads are not equally good. The conveyances
usually employed are the American saloon coaches slung on
leather straps, carrying 12 inside and 6 or 8 outside, with
teams of 10 horses or mules. The numbering of the seats
on these coaches is as follows :——


Door.
i 12 l 7 6 l ‘1
l|11 I 8 l 5 i 2 5__%__
| l :
'10) 9'! 4. i 3 J I . |
Door.

Nos. 7 to 12 face the horses ,' the others face the back of
the coach; the most comfortable seats being 1 to 3 and
10 to 12, as the others have no back beyond a leather strap.
It is always advisable if possible to book beforehand,
particularly if two or three seats are required together.
Where American coaches are not used they are replaced
by Cape carts, a high, two wheeled spring vehicle in uni-
versal use throughout South Africa.
In fine weather when the roads are in good condition a
coach journey may be very enjoyable, but in bad weather
capsizes are unpleasantly frequent and occasionally a coach


31
with its freight of passengers will stick in the mud for many
hours. Teams are changed every ten to fifteen miles, and
some idea may be inferred of the number of horses and
mules kept at the different stations from the fact that
frequently four or five coaches will require fresh teams at
one place during the day. The rate of travelling including
stoppages is not much more than six miles per hour.
Fares are very high, ranging from 9d. to ls. per mile.
‘The allowance of luggage per passenger varies from 25 to
40 pounds and every additional pound weight is charged
(id. to ls. 6d. extra according to the distance traversed—
whilst, if the mail should happen to be heavy, baggage is
frequently shut out.
All the chief coach routes are excellently equipped and
managed and absolute confidence can be placed in the
transport riders in charge of the heavy waggons.
It is unusual to give any reduction on return tickets.
For Advertisements, see pp. 35, 76.
1
Cape Wines.
The native wines are produced chiefly in, the western pro-
vinces where the vine was introduced in 1653. The most
prolific districts are lVorcester, Robertson, Montagu, Ladi-
smith and Oudtshoorn which are traversed by a bed of fer-
ruginous marl known as the Kalkbank. The vine produces
here with an abundance unknown in any other part of the
world. On some farms over 600 gallons of wine are pro-
duced from 1000 vines and the average yield for the district
is about 380 gallons per 1000 vines or nearly ten times that
of the French vineyards. Unless procured from trust-
worthy sources the character of the wine leaves very much
to be desired, the principal defects arising from faulty
storage and excessive additions of brandy. In former days
“Cape” wines were highly prized and the cool heavily
thatched wine stores still seen on some of the oldest farms
are much more adapted to the climate than the fiimsier
constructions of the present day. At the commencement of
the century it is stated that a tax of so many leaguers was


32
levied on the farmers for the use of the king, but the short
sighted wine-growers complained against the injustice of
this tribute which consequently was remitted, with the
result that the wine disappeared from the royal table and
speedily dropped out of fashion.
The best known varieties are pontac, sherry, hermitage,
and hook The first is a dark wine, both sweet and dry,
somewhat similar to a rough port; 'hermitage resembles
claret. A good table wine costs about 6d. a bottle in Cape
Town and Is. to 1s. 6d. in the Transvaal.
Cape Brandy as distilled is an excellent spirit but the
cheaper qualities generally termed “Cape Smoke ” are fear-
fully impure. It is at present free of excise and the best
quality costs about 7s. 6d. per gallon.
Notes upon the Climate, Topography, and
Resources of South Africa for the Guid-
ance of both Invalids and Settlers.
hwulz'ds are here referred to the remarks in the Preface.
Much has been written of late years on the subject of
South Africa as a health resort and a considerable amount
of information, still far from complete, has been tabulated
on the various climatic influences ruling in different parts of
the country. '
The CAPE OFFICIAL HANDBOOK of 1893 contains several
valuable articles on this subject contributed by medical men
who have resided for many years in the districts on which
they write, and another important paper on the same was
read before the Colonial Institute by Dr. Symes Thompson
on 13th November, 1888, which is printed in full in the
Minutes of the proceedings of the Institute for that year.
Another work is “Das Klimat des Siid-Afrikas” by Dr.
Dove.
It is not contemplated at present to give more than a
passing glance at the climate of the territories to the north
of the Colony and the Transvaal, for although in many
parts everything that can be desired, the present unde-
veloped state of the country and the absence of even the






\ PuYaslicAL CLIMATOLOGICAL MAP












l
Plate ans Coast Plateau l
Southern Kan-co Th2 figures- Tapresau
Central Karroo _________________ Nor-IllemKai-roaem. upper :31.
uys “-
5.10 l 32 ' 34
' Mnmjiwuian JrLi'verpuuZ .



i‘


33
necessities of civilised life render these regions quite un-
suitable to the weak, and sufiiciently trying to the strong.
Meteorological records are not very extensive but they
show, as might be expected, a far more equable temperature
in the coast districts than on the upper plains, the mean
daily range for the year between maximum and minimum
readings for the former being only 15%", whereas at
Kimberley and Bloemfontein it is nearly double.
On the coast (with the exception of Durban) the mean
maximum for the month seldom reaches 80°, whilst in
Kimberley it frequently exceeds 90° although the mean
annual temperature in both cases is 63°‘.
It has been sought by means of diagrams and maps to
depict the climatic zones at a glance, with the view of
enabling those ignorant of South African geography to
readily distinguish the places most suitable either to the
invalid visiting the country for a short time in order to
perfect a cure, or to a settler whose ultimate location may
be determined by the natural and atmospherical features of
the district.
These last points are fully considered because there is no
doubt that however well or badly suited South Africa may
be to the ordinary emigrant leaving his country solely for
the sake of earning a livelihood, it does in very many respects
present the most undeniable advantages, perhaps unobtain-
able elsewhere, to those forced to leave Northern Europe by
reason of physical weakness who are yet under the necessity
of earning their own living. These advantages are offered
by very few health resorts where generally the exile is forced
to live a. life of inactivity and where it is impossible to find
employment either in mercantile or agricultural pursuits.
The diversity of climate and rainfall consequent upon
elevation allows of so many different occupations that one,
whose health may not permit of his raising sheep on the
exposed uplands of the Karroo, has a great variety of choice
between that and growing, for instance, tea or sugar on the
Natal coast. ,
Other considerations bearing on the same subject will be
dealt with in the article upon “ Immigration". (See
page 67.)
\ 4


3-1
CAPE COLONY.
The first point to which our attention is called says Dr.
Symes Thompson is “that CAPE TOWN, distant about 34 from
the Equator, has a mean annual temperature of about 63°
corresj'iomliug to that of Naples, Nice, and the Riviera in
from 41° to 43° north,” which shows at once that the South
African climate is far more temperate than that of countries
in the same latitude north of the line.
This is undoubtedly due mainly to the great extent of
ocean to the south of the continent, which permits of the
prevailing summer winds from the south-east passing direct
to the land from the cool regions of the Antarctic Seas.
The influence of the currents is another important
factor, Cape Town and the west coast being swept by the
cold Antarctic current, whereas the whole of the south coast,
including even Simons Town, is washed by the warm
Mozambique current from the Indian Ocean, occasioning a
difference of sea temperature of 5° F. between Cape Town
and Simons Town, distant only 20 miles from one another
and a similar difference between their mean minimum
temperatures. Proceeding eastward a gradual increase of
temperature is also noticeable in the coast towns, the mean
of Durban being 8° above that of Cape Town.
Further inland the climatic conditions of the coast are
speedily modified by great increase of elevation.
South Africa has been compared to the half of an in-
verted saucer but rather resembles an irregular flight of four
steps. The following section taken through the centre of
the Colony from the Knysna to the Orange River will well
illustrate this. The second diagram illustrates the ill defined
nature of the plateaus in the eastern provinces spoken of
under the title of “Eastern Uplands,” page 42. Reference
should here be made to Map No. 2, which will prove a key
to the arrangement of the following articles. The Orange
Free State, the Transvaal, Bechuanaland, the Chartered
Company’s Territory and Namaqualand, have each their
own heading.
It is especially called to the attention of European visitors
that the seasons are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere.


35

Thus, Summer is from October to March and Winter from
April to September. It must also be constantly born in
mind that to the east of longitude 23° E. or thereabouts the
rain falls during the South African summer, whilst on the
west of it the rain falls during the winter.
W/rwn Myana. Mrv%7i fiauybrl h’lb Oi: t'D 100 Mills
1!!!!


dNU I"
1'.‘
2M1‘!
Jami
. M110]
Mwn/ due/Mr“ fivm 06¢ 110m 9' be rat in» llraugfifllulal 1601
K9


The Coast Plateau.
The Coast Plateau, forming the first step is of ir-
regular width, varying from a few miles to 50, and averag-
ing about 600 ft. in height.
The plateau adjoining the West Coast is bounded eastward


36
by the irregular mountains of Namaqualand and by the
Olifant and Drachenstein Ranges. The south coast plateau,
of far more importance, is divided from the highlands of the
Southern Karroo by the Zondereinde, Lange Bergen,
Outeniqua and Lange Kloof Mountains. Further eastward
the plateau loses its former well defined character and in
some instances, where the base of the mountains is almost
washed by the sea, can scarcely be said to exist. The
intermediate plateaus of the Southern and Central Karroos
are also replaced by confined ranges of mountains and hills
connected by long swelling uplands peculiar to this part of
the country. See “ Eastern Uplands,” page 42. .
The more tropical region of Natal is treated separately on
page 46. ' -
The chief characteristics of the Coast Plateau are warmth
and moisture, the greatest rainfall in South Africa being ex-
perienced on Table Mountain itself, where it ranges from 54
to 78 inches per annum. The average of the whole of the
Cape Peninsular is 40", most of it falling on the eastern side
of Table Mountain, but it varies very considerably in places
only a few miles distant ,' thus in 1888 the rainfall at
Bishopseourt was 82%” and at the Town Hall, Cape Town, 5
miles away 29%".
Immediately to the east of Cape Town and as far as the
Knysna there is a decrease to 15-20 inches. The well wooded
Knysna itself is the best watered district of South Africa
with an average rainfall of 40 inches.
Leaving the forest region the Port Elizabeth rainfall is
21", but a further rise occurs in the forest clad slopes of the
Kaffrarian coastlands, the rainfall at St. J ohn’s for 1888
being 53" ; while at Durban the average for 10 years has
been about 30”.
The distribution of the rainfall varies considerably in dif-
ferent seasons, by far the greater part on the coast of Cape
Colony falling during the winter months from April to
September. This is particularly the case in the west when
the summer winds from the south-east probably lose a great
part of their moisture before reaching the land by contact
with the cold Antarctic current. The three hottest months,
January, February, and March, are almost rainless at Cape


37
Town, whereas on the south coast the average for the same
three months is two inches.
The coast lands farther east are however difi'erent, Dur-
ban, St. J ohn’s, &c., receive most rain in the summer, that
is to say during the same period when the rains are expected
in Kimberley, the Transvaal, and the Orange Free State,
the winters being as a general rule dry and clear.
The percentage of humidity in the coast district of Cape
Colony averages 75 per cent. in the summer and 81 per
cent. in the winter months.
Although this coast climate is not well adapted to cases
of advanced phthisis it is still an exceedingly pleasant and
healthy one, and many individuals sufl'ering from bronchial
afi'ections or with the hereditary taint of consumption in
their blood enjoy here a degree of health absolutely unknown
in England. 7
The principal towns in this district are: On the coast,
CAPE TOWN, MossEL BAY, KNYSNA, Pom‘ ELIZABETH, PoR'r
ALFRED, EAST LONDON, and DURBAN ; inland, MALMESBURY
(363 ft), WELLINGTON (324 ft), PAARL (405 ft), STELLEN-
BOSCH (364 ft), CALEDON (800 ft.), SWELLENDAM (500 ft),
RIVERSDALE (200 ft.), GEORGE (620 ft), HUMANSDORP (360 ft.)
and UITENHAGE (170 ft).
Further details should be looked for under the headings
of the respective towns.
Southern Kali-1'00 (and the Warm Bokkeveld).
North of the coast plateau the ground rises more or less
abruptly to the second plateau—which may be regarded as
lying between the Zwaartbergen and the coast range. To
the west the rise is gradual through the fertile Goudini
Valley where WORCESTER (780 ft.) MONTAGU (750 ft.) and
ROBERTSON (600 ft.) are situated. Further eastward the
vegetation and climate partake more of the Karroo character,
the Oudtshoorn valley and the many kloofs to the east being
generally known as the Southern Karroo.
The towns in this district are LADISMITH (1860 ft.),
OUDTSHOORN (1090 ft.) and UNIONDALE (2200 ft). In the
eastern districts the plateau is not so well marked.


38
In comparing the Southeni Karroo climate with that of
the coast lands a very great alteration is noticeable. The
rainfall except in the mountain slopes is much less and the
range of temperature is somewhat greater.
After leaving the rich Goudini valley the scenery rapidly
changes to bare uninteresting veld, traversed by deep
gnllies which in summer are generally dry. In all direc-
tions the landscape is bounded by equally barren-looking
mountains whose steep, rocky sides appear from a distance
to be entirely destitute of vegetation. Nothing can exceed
the contrast between this scenery and that on the opposite
slopes of the coast ranges, where the traveller from the south,
after ascending through luxuriant vegetation, frequently
clothed in mist, emerges suddenly into a region of precipices
and rocks, where rain may not have fallen for weeks.
The soil in the valleys, however, in spite of their unpro-
mising appearance, is extremely rich when it can be brought
under irrigation.
Not very far from Worcester, the beautiful MITcHELL’s
~PASS leads up to a small plateau known as the WARM
BOKKEVELD, on which stands the village of Cases (1700 ft.
above sea level) which may be regarded as one of the most
popular sanatoria of South Africa. (Particulars of climate,
etc., will be found on page 135.)
Great or Central Karroo.
Beyond the Zwaartbergen, whose peaks range from
5000 ft. to 7000 ft. in height, lies the great plain of the
Central or Great Karroo, extending east and west for a
distance of about 350 miles, at a level of from 2000‘ to
3000 ft. above the sea. Its northern boundary consists
of the Nieuwveld and Great Sneeuwberg Ranges, whose
highest peak, the Kompass Berg, reaches an elevation of
7800 ft.
The Karroo bush, which gives its name to the great in-
land plateaus, is an unpromising looking vegetable when
burnt up by the rays of the summer sun~but nevertheless in
the driest seasons it affords nourishment to millions of sheep


39
and goats. Few deserts can have a more desolate appear-
ance than the Karroo districts in summer ; verdure is
entirely wanting; the numerous water gullies are nearly
always dry and the low ranges of ironstone koppies which
dot the plains seem to reflect the heat as from a mirror.
Yet, provided the water in the farmers’ dams holds out, the
flocks and herds can find abundant nourishment in the dried-
up shrubs.
Wherever irrigation schemes have been successfully carried
out the land has proved to be marvellously fertile, and
should the traveller chance to pass through the country
after the spring rains he will find that the desert has literally
blossomed as the rose.
The prevailing summer winds during the day are from the
north and north-west, frequently laden with dust and some-
times bringing in their wake heavy thunderstorms from
which a considerable part of the rainfall is derived.
During the night the cool breezes from the south east
generally prevail. The rainfall is scanty, and occurs princi-
pally from December to May. In the west the annual
average is about 10” increasing to 18” in the east.
The winters are bright and clear, the nights cold, with the
thermometer frequently below freezing point, and the moun-
tain tops often covered in snow which however never lies
long on the plain itself. >
The mean daily range of temperature is great, about
27°. The hottest month is January with a mean maximum of
87° ; the coldest is July with a mean minimum of 36°. The
general medical opinion appears to prefer the winter climate
as most suitable for pulmonary invalids, but as this season
coincides with the European summer fewer visitors arrive at
this time of year than would otherwise be the case.
The summer heat is not so oppressive as it would he were
the air not so intensely dry. Those who are fit to come to
South Africa can derive great benefit at any time of year.
The greatest drawbacks are the dust storms and the absence
of inducements to take exercise.
The main physical features which also apply to the
Northern Karroo are described by Dr. Hermann Weber as
follows—


40
(1.) Parity, viz. emnparative absence of floating matter.
(2.) Dryness of air and soil.
(3.) Coldness of air temperature, great warmth of sun
temperature.
) Rarefaction.
) Intensity of light.
) Stillness of air in winter.
(7.) Large amount of ozone.
(4.
(5.
(6.
The principal towns in this section are BEAUFORT WEST,
2850 ft. ; PRINCE ALBERT, 2120 ft. ; WmLowMoRE, 2760 ft. ;
GRAAF REINET, 2500 ft. ; SOMERSET EAST, 2400 ft.; ABER-
DEEN, 2850 ft. ; of these Beaufort West and Graaf Reinet
have the advantage of being situated on the railway.
Somerset East is only 15 miles distant from Cookhouse
station and is, like Graaf Reinet, situated amidst beautiful
scenery. Both towns are well planted with trees and possess
numerous gardens.
The best known health resorts are Beaufort West,
Matjesfontein and Wagenaar’s Kraal in all of which some
effort has been made to provide suitable accommodation,
more especially perhaps in the first.
Northern Karroo.
Still farther inland is the Northern Karroo, the highest
and most extensive of the Cape Colony plateaus, stretch-
ing as far north as the Orange River at an elevation of
from 2800 feet to 6000 feet above sea level, and described as
Karroo in the Hottentot sense meaning a dry place for want
of a better term.
Dr. Baird speaking of this part of the country says:
“There cannot be said to exist any marked division of the
year into spring, summer, autumn, and winter, rather it
may be described as a long summer and a long winter. The
former begins rather suddenly about the month of September,
increases till January and then decreases till the end of April;
while the latter may be said to last from the end of April
till the month of September.”


41

The scenery is very similar to that of the Central Karroo
but the plains are more extensive and not so frequently re-
lieved by Kopjes. The climate is extremely dry, some parts
to the west averaging as little as 2” of rain in the year, the
average for the whole being 10”, of which the greater part
falls in the violent summer thunderstorms. But only a
small portion of this amount, slender as it is, is available
for agricultural purposes, the great bulk running off the
sun~baked soil into the deep gullies which hurry off the
much-needed water to the sea. Boring experiments however
have lately disclosed most surprisingly large deposits of
water at comparatively shallow depths.
Agriculture on a limited scale is pursued only in the
neighbourhood of the villages, the great industry being
cattle and sheep farming, but the more remote portions are
almost uninhabited save by a few wandering tribes of
Hottentots and Bushmen.
The climate is similar to that of the Central Karroo
region but the extremes are more accentuated. Severe
frosts are experienced in the winter nights, in one instance
the thermometer falling as low as 12° Fahrenheit. The
summer heats are correspondingly severe reaching to 110°
in the shade, the feeling of oppression being increased by
the hot westerly winds which predominate during the first
half of summer, although the nights are cool even
during the periods of greatest heat. The winter days are
very enjoyable, the air being keen and bright with a
maximum of sunshine which allows of almost uninterrupted
outdoor exercise.
The eastern portions are better watered, more verdant
and not so entirely destitute of larger vegetation.
The towns of this region are CRADOCK 2856 feet, one of
the principal Colonial health resorts, easily accessible by
rail, with a small rainfall 14;”, mainly derived from
summer thunderstorms and a mean annual percentage of
humidity of 62% ; QUEENSTOWN 3500 feet, with a rather
heavier rainfall, also on the railway, and TARKASTAD, 4300
feet, 30 miles from the rail, lying in open ground with a
rainfall of 18" and cooler than (Jradock.
Dr. Symes Thompson speaks very highly of the last


43
The climate here is fairly equable, the mean range being
less than two thirds that of Aliwal North, whilst the rain-
fall 30" is distributed throughout the whole 12 months, thus
preserving the country from that withered and arid appear-
ance so frequent elsewhere towards the end of summer. It
is also of service in laying the dust which is seldom oppres-
sive. The mean humidity in summer is 7 4% in winter 77%.
Other towns in the district are Fon'r BEAUFORT, 1500 ft. ;
ALICE, 1680 ft. ; STUTTERHEIM, 2700 ft. ; KING WILLIAM’s
TowN, 1400 ft. ; and BEDFORD, 2450 ft., many of them
pleasantly situated in hilly country plentifully watered and
interspersed with stretches of forest.
The climate however is not possessed of that extreme dry-
ness which is often desirable and may be obtained on the
higher plains.
Resources of Cape Colony.~1n addition to the
above information and to the various items which are to be
found in their proper places throughout the book, a few
facts and figures regarding 'the various parts of South Africa
are necessary to enable an intending settler to form as clear
an opinion as possible of the remuneration which may
ultimately be hoped for from any particular branch of
enterprise which he may be inclined to undertake, whether
from natural choice or because of special knowledge.
It may here be parenthetically remarked that as the
labour question in the old world is becoming more and more
accentuated, it is an open question whether the British
Government itself would not profit more by helping to
develop existing colonies and create centres of population
in accessible districts than by the expenditure of large sums
of money on unknown and sometimes uninhabitable lands.
Such public works for instance as irrigation schemes which
are too colossal for individuals or even companies would
serve as schools where the British yeomen might pay for
his education in a new climate by devoting a part of his
time to Government service and the remainder to studying
the eccentricities of a new climate. He might thus retain
his small capital intact until fully informed as to the
(liflicultics he would have to encounter.
A large immigration of English farmers might be resisted


45
proportion between the sexes amongst the whites is 100
males to 92 females.
As regards the progress made by this population we find
a Public Debt in
1882 of £16,098,409.
and in 1891 of £24,839,167.
of which last figure £15,863,852 has been spent on some
1800 miles of railways, £127,375 on irrigation (including
local loans), £2,471,598 on harbours and £230,763 on
unproductive works.
It is needless to say that a country to which nature has
denied every facility of water transport, as is the case in
South Africa, could not exist as a civilized state without
railways and harbours, which have most fortunately proved
also to be remunerative as investments.
The Revenue Returns were as follows :—
Reeeipts. Expenditure.
Total for 1881-2 3,524,858 3,278,785
,, ,_ 1890-1 4,143,876 4,304,748
of which ,, 1881-2 966,856 764,399
Railway l ,, 1890-1 1,772,750 1,117,953
The Import and Export Returns were :—
Imports. Exports.
Not including
'raw gold.
Total for 1882 9,372,019 8,324,128
,, ,, 1891 8,572,766 11,116,231
of which the share of} ,, 1882 7,584,774 8,112,703
the U. Kingdom was ,, 1891 7,020,493 10,676,017
A certain proportion of both imports and exports simply
passes through the country on its way to the Orange Free
State and South African Republic, Are.
A customs union treaty has been passed which now
includes the Cape Colony, Orange Free State, British
Bechuanaland and Basutoland.
Amongst the imports for 1891 were z—Butter, £49,110 ;
Cheese, £35,551; Preserved meat, provisions and oilman’s
stores, £296,479 ; Beer, wines and spirits, £206,007 ; Corn,


46
grain and meal (principally wheat), £232,421 ; Leather
(manufactured and unnlanufactured), £426,483 ; Crockery,
£47,560,- Wood (manufactured and unmanufactured)
£137,122; Furniture, £130,515.
Amongst the exports were :——Wines and spirits, £100,842 ;
Cured fish, £17,086; Hides, skins, &c., £495,274; Hair
and wool, £2,619,924; Ostrich feathers, £468,221 ; Copper
ore, £254,184; Diamonds, £4,174,208.
The total shipping entered inwards at all ports for 1881
was 2,540,910 tons and for 1891 4,002,095 tons.
There are agricultural schools at Stellcnbosch and
Somerset East which are more particularly adapted for the
sons of Afrikander farmers than for those coming out to
make a living.
Natal.
The Natal climate is somewhat similar to that of the
eastern provinces but the coast lands are decidedly warmer,
the average mean maximum throughout the year at Durban
being 77'8° against 70'7° at Port Elizabeth. They are
however quite free from the malarial fever so fatal to
Europeans which exists farther north in the Portuguese
territory.
The prevailing wind is from the south-east and is stated to
blow six times more frequently from that quarter than
from any other. Passing as it does over many miles of
ocean it arrives laden with moisture and proves a never-
failing source of abundant rain to the district-s lying within
one hundred miles of the coast. The rainfall at Durban
and Pietermaritzburg is about 29%”, the greater part of
which falls during the summer months; May, June, and
July being comparatively dry.
The ground rises rapidly from the sea-board in a confused
succession of hills and ridges, forming many beautiful
valleys in which the cultivation of tea, sugar and other
tropical produce is successfully carried on. MARITZBURG,
only 40 miles distant from the sea in a direct line is 2200
above sea level and in common with .many other towns of
Dutch origin is laid out in a hollow. In spite of this


48
the new form of responsible government may tend to help
in this direction. .
A gold field would naturally offer the readiest solution of
the difliculty and one must trust that the crushing now
going on at Umzinto near Port Shepstone will prove as
satisfactory as it is reported is the case at Umsinga on the
Zululand border.
The most important mineral at present is coal. There
are some dozen collieries of which the Dundee Coal Fields
alone is capable of producing 1000 tons a day. Iron
exists in large quantities and in close proximity to the
coal, whilst several other minerals are to be found. There
are also large marble quarries near the mouth of the
Umzimkulu where the stone can be brought down to Port
Shepstone by water. It is chiefly used so far for making
lime and cement.
Agricultural products include sugar which is cultivated
on some 13,000 acres ; coffee, 600 acres; tea, 1050 acres;
tobacco, 300 acres; and wattle bark, which is said to give
excellent returns; the wattle is being planted in copses on
a large scale or as a profitable fringe and protection to
exposed land.
Amongst other industries are breweries, tanneries and
works for the manufacture of eucalyptus oil, waggons, &c.
Bonuses are given to new enterprises under certain
conditions.
The total estimated area of the country is 12,000,000
acres or 16,651 square miles. From 1887-92 638,000 acres
were sold and 584,000 leased, leaving 2,778,000 acres
available. The population for 1891 was 42,759 whites (24
males to 19 females), 43,070 Indians and 469,747 natives
or a total of 555,576.
The Revenue Returns were :—
Receipts. Expenditure.
Total for 1887 924,840 785,093
,, ,, 1891 1,366,611 2,334,491
Railway alone ,, 1887 259,364 185,409
,, ,, 1891 673,090 ' 622,355
Public Debt for 1891, £7,170,354.


49
Imports. Exports.
For 1882 2,213,538 731,809
,, 1891-2 3,690,734 1,377,085
(Inclusive of gold, £218,683).
Nearly all the import and export trade is done with the
United Kingdom, but a certain portion is of course for
transit only.
Some of the most interesting Imports for 1891-2 were :—
Beer, wines and spirits, £176,975 ; Provisions and oilman’s
stores, £175,707; Flour and grain (chiefly flour), £176,167;
Leather (manufactured and unmanufactured), £152,538 ;
Furniture, £61,906.
And It'x}'101'ts.'— Hair and wool, £627 ,883; Hides, skins,
&c., £60,445 ; Ostrich feathers, £289 ; Grain, meal, &c.
(chiefly maize), £17,441 ; Sugar, £67,648; Spirits, £4367;
Wattle bark, £9243, Tea, £1932; Coal, £49,275 (against
£21,599, the year before). ‘
The total shipping inwards in 1881 was 220,096 tons and
in 1891-2, 565,424 tons.
The Orange Free State.
To the north of Natal and the eastern provinces and
separated from them by the imposing range of the Drakens-
berg lies the broad plateau of the Free State, 4000 to
5000 feet above sea level.
This great plain, over 50,000 square miles in extent, is
almost entirely destitute of trees except along the river-
banks which are frequently clothed with willow and mimosa.
The rainfall is moderate, probably about 22" and occurs
principally during the late summer months in the shape of
violent thunderstorms. Most of the water however is
rapidly carried off by the deep-cut river-beds which are
generally thirty or forty feet below the level of the
surrounding country and speedily drain all moisture from
their vicinity. Here and there the dreary scorched surface
of the plateau is relieved by isolated kopjes and short stony
ranges of hills, destitute of vegetation and affording little
shade.
5


50
The staple industries are horse, cattle and sheep-breed-
ing ; the difficulty in storing water on some parts of the
table land almost prevents the production of food even
for the farmers and their families. In the southern portions
however near the Basutoland border conditions are more
favourable to agriculture and advantage is taken of them
to raise very large crops of corn and other cereals which
find a ready market in the neighbouring gold and
diamond-fields.
The chief town is BLOEMFONTEIN, 4500 ft. above sea level
with about 5800 inhabitants. This place has been long
celebrated for its dry healthy climate and has been largely
resorted to during the last ten or fifteen years by pulmonary
invalids. Since the close of 1890 it has been connected
with the Colonial railway system, thus obviating the tedious ‘
coach journey formerly necessary.
LADYBRAND, distant some hours by coach, is highly
recommended by the faculty and is best reached from
Bloemfontein.
HARRISMITH, 5300 ft., is another situation eminently
qualified as a sanatorium with a good climate all the year
round. The population is mainly English and it may be
expected to receive more attention from medical men now
that the railway connecting it with the Natal system is
completed.
The pleasantest town in the north of the Free State is
Kroonstad, picturesquely situated on the banks of a
small tributary of the Vaal, which has sufficient water to
afford good bathing and a little boating, the latter a very
rare luxury in the interior of South Africa. This part of
the country is better wooded than elsewhere.
Resources of the Orange Free State—The
continuation of the Cape railways through Bloemfontein to
the Veal and the Customs Convention have been of
enormous service to this country, which has taken the
position of peacemaker and go-between as regards the Cape
Colony and the Transvaal, securing in return blessings and
advantages from both sides. I
The general character of the country is pastoral, but a
greater outlay on protection sheds and food during the dry


51

season could scarcely fail to increase the profits on the
present system of cattle raising. On the eastern border the
part known as the Conquered Territory is very fertile and
well watered, and arable farming is carried on largely and
by the most modern methods.
The area of the country is about 14,983,000 morgen of
which some 450,000 remain at the disposal of the govern-
ment. Land tenure is entirely on the perpetual quit-rent
system and the terms are 2s. per 100 morgen.
The population in 1890 was 77,717 whites and 129,787
colored or a total of 207,504, which is equal to 4293 to the
square mile. Naturalisation is granted after three years
residence.
Revenue. Expenditure.
For 1889 £202,270 £183,548
,, 1892 £386,588 £407,610
Goods pay the same duties in the Free State as in Cape
Colony, a rebate being allowed to the Free State govern-
ment which provides some £100,000 out of the Revenue.
For Basuto Land see the end of Route XIV.
The Transvaal.
The Transvaal lies to the north of the Free State and
is divided from it by the Vaal River, whence the ground rises
to the Witwatersrand Range, forming the watershed be-
tween the tributaries of the Vaal and the Limpopo at a
height of about 7000 ft. above sea level.
South of the range the climate may be regarded as uni-
formly healthy, although in parts good water is scarce.
This is particularly the case in the south-west of the
country,—an extensive fiat exceeding even the'plains of the
Free State or Karroo in extreme monotony. The principal
towns on the southern slope of the range are J OHANNESBURG,
5600 ft., only a couple of miles from the summit; POTCHEF-
sTRooM, 4100 ft., and HEIDELBERG, 5000 ft.
The largest of these is of course J OHANNESBURG of which
the mushroom growth during the last few years has aston-
ished the world. The town is situated on bleak, open treeless


52
downs, exposed to cold winter winds which sweep over the
plateau without obstruction. At this season of the year
when little rain falls duststorms are frequent and by causing
inflammation of weak lungs are to some extent responsible for
the high death rate. Snow occasionally falls during the
winter months and frosty nights are experienced during a
considerable part of the year.
The summer months are hot but not so enervating as in
Pretoria. The heavy rainfall which occurs at this season
frequently renders the roads almost impassable.
Much has been said as to the advantages which should be
derived by consumptives from its elevated position and dry
winter climate, but the number of fatalities that have
occurred there from diseases of the lungs proves rather that
it is a place to be avoided by sufferersv from pulmonary
complaints. The lack of railway communication which has
caused so much discomfort in the past will soon be remedied,
and, together with the relief from overcrowding consequent
upon the recent depression, will render the town a far
pleasanter place of residence than in the first few years of
its existence.
HEIDELBERG is considered the best sanatorium in the
Transvaal. It is pleasantly situated on the mountain
slopes to the‘ south-east of Johannesburg about 5000 ft.
above sea level, and is much resorted to by invalids from
Pretoria and Johannesburg.
POTCHEFSTROOM, the old capital, founded in 1839, is situated
a few miles from the Vaal River with a plentiful water~
supply which at times proves superabundant. The streets
are planted with magnificent willow-trees and the general
health of the town is good.
Crossing the watershed we find that the ground which
has risen steadily from the sea-coast falls with equal regu-
larity to the banks of the Limpopo.
The only town in this district which has ever been
mentioned as a health resort is PRETORIA, the Capital, 4500
feet, about thirty miles north of Johannesberg and conse- _
quently not far north of the summit of the watershed.
The invariable Dutch plan has been followed here of
placing the town in a hollow with the result that in wet


53
weather a part of it may be said to be in a swamp. The
water-supply is not to be surpassed in South Africa but,
being conveyed to the town through an open furrow three
miles long, it has hitherto been grossly contaminated in its
course. The newly erected waterworks should however
prove a remedy for this evil.
The heat during the summer months is very considerable
and the heavy rainfall occasions a great deal of mist. The
winter climate however is perfect, fresh, bright and invigo-
rating, but the total disregard of the commonest sanitary
precautions has been the cause of much sickness in the
past and the number of deaths, considering the open nature
of the town, is excessive, the rate for the first half of 1891
being forty-four per thousand per annum, reckoned on the
white population only.
The whole of the Transvaal territory to the north may be
considered healthy during the bright dry winter months, but
during the hot rainy season malarial fever prevails to such
an extent as to render some districts uninhabitable ; this
is particularly the case on low ground, whether swampy or
otherwise.
In the east BARBERTON, which formerly suffered severely
from fever, is now regarded as fairly healthy, but malaria is
still prevalent in the neighbouring valleys. ‘
The deadly nature of the climate in the neighbourhood of
Delagoa Bay is too well known to need comment.
For Resources of the Transvaal see page 214.
Bechuanaland is a continuation of the-Great Karroo
plateau stretching from the Orange River to the Molopo
River. The elevation of this plain is from 4000 to 6000 feet
and the rainfall appears to be about equal to that of the
Northern Karroo m'z. 10". It has been remarked that the
climate in this district is gradually becoming drier, but the
lack of reliable meteorological observations renders it diffi-
cult to substantiate this statement. It appears however
that in former years the hippopotamus was found in many
pools of the Kuruman River which are now nearly dry.
Cereals grow abundantly in the valleys but as in all sub-
tropical countries there is a certain amount of malaria let
loose when the virgin soil is broken up and irrigated for the


54
first time ; timber is also fairly plentiful in places but large
quantities have been cut down. Water in the dry season is
often very scarce.
In the Protectorate the chiefs continue to exercise
authority under English control, but in the Crown Colony
the administration is in the hands of the British High
Commissioner.
, The area is estimated at 41,663 square miles and the
population, not including the payers of hut tax, consists of
5254 whites and 8472 colored, or a total of 12,726.
It is a member of the Customs Union. The Revenue for
1892-93 was £55,230 and the Expenditure £175,174, of
which £101,500 was on account of the police.
The Chartered Company's Territory.
It is rather too soon to speak definitely as regards the
climate of Matabeleland and Mashonaland but the high table-
land that traverses these districts will probably prove
inferior to no part of Africa as a place of settlement for
Europeans; on the lower grounds there is undoubtedly
much malarial fever.
Progress and. Resources.—The progress of the
company has been to some extent hindered ,by the pessimistic
reports spread abroad by Lord Randolph Churchill and
others, which are without doubt entirely erroneous.
The cost of transport from the coast to Fort Salisbury
will soon be no more than £10 a ton or about the same as
to Johannesburg and, though one can scarcely hope for
another Witwatersrand, Mashonaland at least is most
certainly full of payable gold reefs and further explorations
may discover that the territory farther north, where
indications have been seen, is equally wealthy. The
ancient workings with which so much of the country is
honeycombed and which seem to be the results of centuries
of labour, have done little harm as those who dug there
could not attack hard quartz and knew few or none of our
modern methods of extracting the metal.
Agriculture as a highly remunerative industry must


55
follow gold except in places where coffee, tea, cotton, &c.,
can be grown and where a dense native population provides
an abundance of labour. The commission sent up from
Cape Colony reported that between Forts Tuli, Victoria,
Salisbury and Unitali there lay a district of some 40,000
square miles, well timbered, fertile and suitable for
Europeans to live and breed in. A large part of this land
is best adapted to grazing, but much of it could be placed
under cultivation, especially with tobacco and cotton.
Mr. Joseph Thomson in his report to the Chartered
Company on the territory north of the Zambesi says that
the land is suitable to Europeans, extremely fertile and that
the conditions of life are easy. Mr. Alexander Whyte who
accompanied him, seems equally pleased and says that the
rainfall in the bracing climate of the Milangi Plateau,
situated amongst the Shire Highlands, is only from 60 to
70 inches, which seems quite suflicient.
The area of the Company’s Territory is about 750,000
square miles not including 8000 square miles in British
Bechuanaland, received as compensation for help in con-
structing the Kimberley-Mafeking railway.
The white population in 1892, south of the Zambesi, was
about 3000. ,
Townships have been declared at Salisbury, 5000 feet,
Victoria, 3670 feet, and Umtali, 4000 feet, but Fort Tuli,
1890 feet, seems also likely to be a centre and all four have
been provided with hospitals. Several brick buildings have
been erected and most of the timber used in building can
be procured‘ in the neighbourhood. There is an hotel at
Tuli and several houses of accommodation along the main
road, which runs from Macloutsie to Tuli and from Tuli to
Salisbury vid Victoria and Fort Charter, 4750 feet (weekly
post carts, from either Tuli or Salisbury to Victoria, either
journey being about 170 miles). From Salisbury a road
runs to Umtali, 146 miles, Massikessi, 158 miles and
Chemoyo, 230 miles (weekly post cart), where it meets the
Pungwe railway. These roads are available under ordinary
circumstances for Waggon traffic all the year round.
The methods of approaching Mashonaland m'a' Mafeking
or Pretoria will be found under the heading of these towns.


56
The railway from Beira is also mentioned elsewhere.
Between Fontes-Villa and Chcmoyo, 2200 feet, 85 miles,
the fly country is left behind. Massikessi is 2,500 feet,
and the road continues to rise to Salisbury, 5000 feet, the
seat of government and the terminus of the telegraphic
system, 819 miles from Mafeking.
All goods loaded at Beira pay 3% ad valorem duty.
The Interal Postal Charges are :——
Letters, 2d. per % oz. ; Newspapers, ad. per 4 oz. ; Books,
Qd. per oz.; Parcels, 2d. per 4 oz. and 8d. per lb. or
fraction; Telegrams, 3d. per word (minimum 2s. 6d.).
Up till the present the minerals discovered are gold,
silver, copper, lead, iron, saltpetre and plumbago. Good
deposits of lime and slate exist near Salisbury and there is
coal in the Portuguese Territory at Tette on the Zambesi.
The Company receive 50% of the capital in all the mines.
Several thousands of claims have been registered and
shafts have been sunk on a fair proportion, some reefs having
been tested with satisfactory results from 200 feet to 300
feet below the surface. The districts proclaimed auriferous
amount to considerably over 5000 square miles.
For coaches, fares, &c., see under “Pretoria and Mafeking”.
GERMAN DAMARALAND and NAMAQUALAND consist of an
unhealthy coast belt of sand fifty to a hundred miles wide,
almost destitute of water. Further inland the ground rises
to the level of the Bechuanaland plateau of which it forms
a continuation.
Precautions against Malaria.
The following precautions based on the experience of Sir
Joseph Fayrer will prove useful to those residing within the
fever belt :—
“ The rainy season and the still more sickly drying season
should not be spent in malarioas districts; The first digging
up and clearance of virgin soil should be performed by those
already acclimatised. Malaria being most potent near the
ground, particularly when the sun has just disappeared below
the horizon, it is important to sleep well above the ground.
Houses should be constructed with. sleeping rooms in an upper


57
storey, the windows being closed at night. The diet should be
nutritious. Drink should be very tcmperately used or not at
all. Exercise taken early should be preceded by a cup of
chocolate, tea or cqfiec. Protection from the sun for the head
and neck should be adequate; drinking water boiled and
filtered, and two grains of quinine taken night and
morning.
“In the first two or three years after breaking up the
virgin land it is important not to live in the midst of the land,
and if it is proposed to irrigate the garden the house should
not be about it but placed to windward of it, or a belt of
Eucalyptus should be planted between the house and the irri-
gated fields, such It belt acting as an efl'ecturll screen.”
There is no doubt that if the above rules could be
strictly observed malarial fever would be a disease of the
past, but unfortunately some of them are beyond the reach
of the settler and prospector. However the risk of infection
might be greatly lessened by observing the simpler precau-
-tions regarding diet and exposure. It has been remarked
in the Low Country Gold-fields in the Transvaal that if a
man attacked by fever is allowed to remain in the low
country he has a better chance of recovery than if removed
to the comparatively healthy high ground and that a man
who may have spent months in the low country without
experiencing any attack will sometimes be struck down on
his return to the healthy districts.
Meteorological Observations.
With the exception of those for Natal all the following
tables have been specially prepared for this work from
figures kindly furnished by the Cape of Good Hope Meteoro-
logical Society and are not obtainable elsewhere.
The temperatures have been taken by self-registering
thermometers and are absolutely correct. Those columns
headed “ ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM” and “ ABSOLUTE MINIMUM”
are the means of the actual absolutes for the respective
months added together and divided by the number of years
and give therefore the extreme degree of heat or cold which
may fairly be expected to occur.


58
As regards “ RELATIvE HUMIDITY ” it is to be regretted
that the wet and dry bulb have never before been worked
out as otherwise the many glaring indiscrepancies must
have attracted notice. For instance in some remarkably
dry districts and during the driest months a state of almost
complete saturation is reported, while again readings are
stopped through frost and one remarkable case would seem
to indicate that the town lies under water during the month
of May. Such mistakes can only occur through neglect or
incrustation of the wet bulb and medical men will take the
figures for what they are worth. The writer hopes that at
some future period he may obtain others more correct.
Under the heading of “Clouds” 0 represents clear sky
and 10 fully covered.
Where no tables are given short notes on the climate are
generally to be found under the description of the town or in
the topographical article. -
It seems to be a fact that bacterial life tends to disappear
at a much lower elevation in South Africa than is the case
in Europe.
Those who have visited the Canaries, &c., will also find a
great resemblance as regards three points, namely, that
sunstroke is very rare, hydrophobia unknown and that the
actinic power of the sky in clear weather is very low.


69
e Town.
at. 33° 56’. Long. 18' 29' E.
Lat.
Port Elizabeth.
33° 57’.
— miles from coast.
Height above sea 181 ft.
Taken at 8 4.11.
Long. 25° 37’.






~3.- ' 5. Shade Tem ennui-e. _ - ~3.- - sum
p "is $51 — -- jT-QLM' -- i=2
u we" 1 .=-- "' = O " '= =.._
84% 235M“ Mes-"i‘ifiig' 41122-4 5;: 64 Meflnl'iiié" 4:5:- ‘5 £35: I iiMax. MllLi Max_ Mm c2355 i Max. Min.‘ Max_ Min_
__. _i.,4 , a..-
Jan. 29'949l67 *83'4 59'91‘101'8 51‘0 0'60 2 2'9 Jan. 29'800 72 76'1 63'4 86'8 56'4 1'09
Feb. 29'920l72'5182‘5 59'91 96‘0 53'3 0‘67 2 3'1 Feb. 29'799 765 76'5 64'7 82'9 57'5 0'75
Mar. 29-986l75 lSO'O 57-11 95-7 47-8 1-21 5 3-4 Mar. 29-857 77 73-9 60-9 81-5 53-4 138
Apr. 30'019‘84 ,72'6 53'3‘ 88'9 43'2 2'12 8 3'9 Apr. 29'874 77 71''? 57'2 85'7 49'7 2'50
May 30063 86 166'?) 49'9 81'2 38'1 4'20 11 5'3 May 29'884 67'5 68'9 53'7i 84'1 48'6 2'26
June 30-128 85-51636 478i 75-0 36-8 6-24 12 6-3 June 29-965 72 69-2 51-15 83-2 44-0 1-03
July 30-164i87 ;62-4 45-8! 73-3 35-8 3-18 11 5-2 July 30-030 78 66-4 47-9- 78-3 41-5 2-29
Aug. 30'112387 \63'8 46'9' 78'0 36‘2‘ 3'23 9 5'5 Aug. 29945 81 66'1 5051 86'0 4230 2'57
Sept. 30-11185 08-4 51-1, 83-7 41-3 2-55 8 4-8 Sept. 29-969 78 66-7 53-8; 83-7 46-5 2-17
Oct. 30-054178 "71-0 517' 86-3 40-8 2-54 8 5-6 Oct. 29-881 74 68-4 55-61850 48-9 139
Nov. 30017172 1750 54-3. 91-1 47-4 1-35 6 4-9 Nov. 29-862 75-5 70-6 57-9‘ 90-8 51-6 1-87 ‘
Dec. ‘29-976 725-792 57-41 91-6 54-0 0-80 4 4-9 Dec. 29-812 70-5 73-7 61-2; 81-5 54-3 1'63
‘ - l
l ‘ l l
lHeani30‘042i79 ‘72‘4 52‘8] — — ,28'69 86 4'6 Mean 29'890 75 70'7|56'5i — —— 2093

0a.
Royal Observatory.
2 miles from coast.
Height above sea 40 ft.
Taken at 8 A.M.
Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Min. and Max. Temps. over 8 years.










Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years.

No. of ‘lily—e A
on which
rain fell.
Cloud
*rq‘q‘q‘iri‘i‘q‘q‘i‘q‘q‘

-lqwwi-loaiemcomo 0-10.

I QQUIOQCDQU‘GJQDGJOIO’Q'
i
80 l 5-0







Ceres. Prince Albert-
Lat. 33° 22’. Long. 19° 20' E. Lat. 33° 14‘. Long. 22° 0’.
Distance from coast about 55 miles. Distance from coast 60 miles.
Height above sea 1493 ft. - Height above sea 2120 ft.
Taken at 8 A.M. Taken at 8 am.
|
“3 - >1 Shade Temperature .. l; "-3 - >1 Shade Temperature. , .
32 s go-
- 1M5"— , E... ‘53 3 o 25"“ _ . 5 HF‘
2g 5 Mean Mean 5; E 55-2 04 egg Mean Mean 431153- s 80'
m 3” 3: Max‘ Mm‘ Max. Min. iz 3” m Max’ Mm‘ Max. Min.
Jan. 28-408 63-5 85'5 55-5 99-4 49-8 '63 l 2 __ Jan. 27-806 65 86-1 60-4 102 51 '67 3 —
Feb. 28-391 63 85-4 54-4 98-1 48-0 -72 l 1 __ Feb. 27'807 j.67-5 85-1 61-2 99 54 1'18 1 3 —
Mar. 28-437 68-5 80-6 52-1 95-0 39-8 1'16 3 _ Mar. 27-831 [72-5 76-1 l55-O 93 47 1'98 l 4 —
Apr. 28-472 82 71-5 45-4 90-2 36-6 2'93 P 6 _ Apr. 27-860 72 72-5 ‘51-1 i 84 43 1'55 5 —
May 28-516 — 64-2 40-6 81-5 32-0 8'96 ;‘ 11 _. May , 27-918 74-5 67-1 ‘46-8 ‘ 77 38 2'22 ‘ 4 -—
June 28-587 90-5 61-4 37-4 75-3 29-8 7'53 9 - June 1 27-959 73 63-4 {43-2 73 37 '44 i 3 —
July 28-652 92 58-9 34-3 72'1 28-2 4'27 ] 10 _ July 28-011 71-5 61-1 1:385 70 32 '43 2 ——
Aug. 28-558 84 60-7 37-5 80-2 29-9 5'11 , 8 _ Aug. 27-963 65 ' 64-6 5 41-2 76 27 1-09 4 —
Sept. 28-546 85-5 67-0 42-1 85-0 34-8 3'90 7 6 _ Sept. 27-948 63-5 ' 72-0 Q 48-3 90 37 1'54 , 2 —
Oct. 28-493 74 71-0 46-0 90'6 36-7 3'56 6 _ Oct. 27-904 58-5 76-8 "52-0 93 44 '73 2 —
Nov. 28-462 64 77-1 49-1 91-6 41-4 1-51 ; 3 _ Nov. 27.900 61-5 81-8 154-9 98 46 '68 2 —
Dec. 28-424 58-5 81-3 52-5 95-9 45-7 '79 ; 3 _ Dec. 27-860 65-5 87-2 ; 60-9 100 52 -69 2 —
Mean 28-495 75 72-1 45'6 — — 141-07‘ 68 _ Mean 27-897 67-5 74-6151'1 — — 13-20 36 —
Observations extend over 5 years. Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 6 years. Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 6 years.
09


[9
Lat. 32° 16’.
Graaf-reinet.
Long. 24° 34' E.
Distance from coast 123 miles.
Height above sea. 2460 it.
Taken at 8 3.171.
Brakfontein (between Victoria West and Beaufort West).
Long. 23° .0’. E.
Lat. 31“ 52'.
Distance from coast 130 miles.
Height above sea 3947 ft.
Taken at 8 A.M.








. 1 1 _ 1 .“ \ ., ‘
l It???‘ Shade Temperature. "g g Egg!
.- 565918;? Ab Ah -Ee 3i‘;
53594-9999- 132' 1.533 3 253
I £8“ v m Max',M“‘- Max. Min.‘
l
Jan. l27-394 61-5 37-3 53-0 101-2 46 ' 1-49 5;
Feb. !27-407‘72-5 36-3 59-3 99-3 49-6‘ 2-13 6!
Mar. 27-471 745 79-7 55-2 93-9 41-3‘ 2-52 6‘,
Apr. 27-459l71-5 75-0 50-3 91-0 36-3. 1-50: 7}
May i27-466\72-5 70-1 45-3 35-0 31-9. 2201 5.
June 27549166 69-0 40-3 77-6 27-41 064.1 3;
July 275631635 65-3g36-6 77-3 25-5. 1-40. 37
Aug. 27-513‘68 63-4 40-3 34-4 26-3‘ 0-54. 4'
Sept. ]27-530.615 7491462 913 33-4; 1-29» 4‘
Oct. ‘27-454‘61-5 790,505 95-0 37-41 1-25: 41
Nov. 27440625 314531 97-5 41-3. 0-33; 5I
Dec. 27'413‘59'51867 56-7 101-6 46-0} 1-31.’ 4’
Mean 27'472jl66'5r77-0 49-4 _ _ 17-15‘ 56.


Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years.
| 015671
; 0—10.
Weeeewweeeee
UIODGJONJHUIUDQDUYLOH
g;
38;; a>>'- F‘ I; .
if... W "- -~— "39;
oo 397"‘ ...... '6 = 0
Egg 225M646 Mean 1:35;‘ g Eggg'fi 54>
‘38” miMax' Mm‘ Max. Min. 1}‘
Jan. 65 i372 54-3 93-0 44-0 1687‘ 4,24
Feb. 74 586-9 55-5 96-6 43-5 1531 5:25
Mar. 63 "30-1 49-1 33-3 35-3 1-49! 5 2-9
Apr. 73 .74-0 44-0 35-2 29-3 0-33! 4 35
May 31 164-8 367 76-6 24-3 1-06' 5 3-3
June 76 62-4 31-7 69-4 13-4 0-34! 2 2-2
July 73-5 60-9 27-9 73-0 15-3 0-29 1 2-3
Aug. 67 66-1 32-4. 73-3 19-6 0-29 2 3-0
Sept. 615.723 33-4 36-4 23-6 0-56 2 2-9
065. 63'5‘78'6 44-0 90-4 31-6 0-29 2 3-1
Nov. 63 ‘31-0 43-2 92-3 36-3 0-72 2 2-2
Dec. , 61 136-7 530 97-2 41-5 0-45 2 2-2
Mean!26-115!695j73-1 43-0 _ _ 9-63 2-7



V Shade Temperature.





Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 7 years.


Somerset East. Grahamstown.





Lat. 32° 44’. Long. 25° 38’. Lat. 32° 20’. Long. 26° 33' E.
Distance from coast; 70 miles. Distance from coast about 27 miles.
Heightnbove see, 2400 ft. Height above see, 1772 it.
Taken at 8 A.M. Taken at 8 A.M.
"8 - ' Shade Temperature. ._. m . "3 - ' Shade Temperature. ,_ 1
a d“ a‘ _ _.‘ a a; :m s‘ M
2 §€ Mean Mean fibiol fibgo‘ .5" g be; 3 g’? Mean Mean Albzo' All)?” g 56
a ‘5% m Max. Min. Mum-Z. m " z 55 5% m Max. Min. Mi; " 2
Jan. 27-511 67 85-4 56-3 101-9 43-7 4'20 10 4'1 Jan. v28-069 68 79-2 57-0 101-0 50-4 228 8 4'5
Feb. 27-533 78 84-1 58-4 98-0 47-2 4'02 11 5'5 Feb. 28-075 705 79-3 59-4 94-4 51-5 2'68 8 5'1
Mar. 27-580 78-5 77'8 54-5 93-7 42'7 3'19 8 4'6 Mar. 28-133 72-5 75-0 56-8 91-4 47-2 2 99 8 4'6 c»
Apr. 27-585 78 74-0 50-3 91-7 38-7 2'85 9 4'3 Apr. 28-134 75 72-3 53-1 90-0 45-2 2'53 9 4'8 N’
May 27-547 66-5 68-6 46-0 82-6 32-6 1-44 4 2'7 May 28-148 71-5 68-5 49-5 82-6 39-6 2'61 6 3'8
June 27-699 66-5 67-1 42'8 79'5 29'1 0'50 3 2'0 June 28-229 68 66-1 46-3 77'2 37-9 -80 3 2'3
July 27'697 70 64-8 39-6 77'3 27-9 2'05 5 2'1 July 28-267 75 63-1 44-3 74-9 36-0 2'27 5 2'8
Aug. 27-631 62 67-9 42-6 86-3 27-9 1'13 7 3-4 Aug. 28-203 74-5 65-1 45-7 84-7 34-9 2-23 6 3-8
Sept. 27-655 62-5 73-4 46-3 92-7 33-1 1-25 6 3'1 Sept. 28-213 69 69-1 49-4 90-2 40-5 2-51 7 3'7
Oct. 27-676 94-5 76'8 49-1 94'0 37-1 3'42 9 4'9 Oct. 28-129 68-5 71-6 51'7 92-5 42-6 2'74 7 4'3
Nov. 27'548 65-5 78-2 51-3 97-3 39-1 2'37 9 4'1 Nov. 28-137 72-5 71-8 52-8 91-4 453 4-35 10 5'6
Dec. 2750'? 62 80-6 55-0 103-3 40-8 4-25 8 3'8 Dec. 28-079 64-5 77-7 56-7 99-5 48-1 1'97 6 4-2
Mean 27-597 71 75-2 49-3 — — 30-67 89 3'7 Mean 28-151 70-5 71'6 51-9 — -— 29-96 83 4 1
Observations extend over 4 years. The observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years. Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years.


umwwmqqwwwm
Queenstown.
Lat. 31° 51’. Long. 26° 51’ E.
Distance from coast 105 miles.
Height above sea 3500 ft.
Taken at 8 4.171.









Cradoek.
Lat. 32° 11’. Long. 25° 38’.
Distance from coast 108 miles.
Height above sea. 2856 ft.
Taken at 8 4.171.
53;‘; a, >', Shade Temperature. ,_
02': :23: T: m
3235 582% l ‘Absc Abso l :E‘Eg
I- s. 2H .- Mean \Meanl ' '- '— a:
s ‘is Max. :Min. ,h-if, ; é -
27'077 i 61'5 87'9 565 100-0 45-6 1-51
27'072 64 88-2 57-5 98'0 46-4 266
27'102 72 821 51''? 93'4 39'4 2'08
27'162 75 777 ‘47-1 90-2 34-8 1-54
27'224 71 703 40-8 816 30-4 l 1'20
27'269 655 67-2 35-6 ‘ 74-6 24-6 0'34
27324 68 65-6 33-7 75'2 25'0 0'92
27204 65 69'6 37'0 83'8 26-8 0'73
27-227 63 75'3 42-7 91'0 32'8 0'68
27142 63 80-2 475 95'6 34-8 0'79
27'103 625 827 50'7 97'8 39-8 1-03
27'078 565 875 54-9 101'9 43-2 1'02
27'165 655 77'9 463 i —- — 14-50
Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 7 years.


559‘
255 38
54
7 1-7
7 2-5
7 2-5
7 2-9
4 2-9
2 1-9
2 1-9
_ 4 2-2
3 2-5
3 3-2
4 2-6
4 2-1
54 ,I24
l


Jan.
Feb.
Mar.
Apr.
May
June
July
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Nov.
Dec.
Mean
Shade Temperature.

Mean Abso- Abso~
Mm-
%
57'8 99-6
594 96-2
54-2 907
48'8 85-0
432 784
38'4 3 73'7
36'4 73-0
408 1 80-0
46'3 ‘ 86-9
78-2 497 93'0
80-2 52-31‘ 96'2
849 .56-1 : 99''?
Mean
Relative
Humidity.
Rainfall
in
inches
Mean
Max.
Barometer
corrected to
32 deg. F.

46-8 ,
50-0 1
40-9 5
36-7 ‘
29-2
24-7
22-8
28-4
32-8
37-6
41-7
44-8
26-365
26'375
26-423
26-452
26-465
26-531 62
26-536 45
26-483 58
26500 73
26-400 57
26'392 57
26-368
85-0
83-9
78-0
73-7
67-2
65-0
63-2
64-5
. 72'8
mqqmm
www<w
QeHQHTQFHQWw‘
wwmwowmmmmwfi‘
wHHmwqmqwwmw

@0QWQQQWWO?

l —


26-441 63 74-9 48-7;

—- I 21-23
Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years.


1y.
Kimber e
Lat. 28° 43'. Long. 24° 46’ E.
Distance from coast 340 miles.
Height above sea 4042 ft.
Taken at 8 4.14.




1 girl; i: g Shade Temperature. % m Ear: loo
1 6581633. . 343 55- 5~
Q avg 23 E Abso- ' Abso- "- Q . 5 “A
‘i l: m 5 Mean Me-a'n , lute lute 5 ° 5 9 o
! M 8m ‘ ‘imam. Min. Max ‘ Min‘ 5% z
Jan. 25-679 l56 i842 55-3 ‘ 92-9 45'4 ‘ 2'51 8 3'0
Feb. 25678 ‘I 63 84-1 56-6 93'4 48-1 ‘ 3'65 9 3'5
Mar. ' 25'728 - 70 l 76-5 50-4 86-2 38-1 3'82 9 3'4
Apr. _ 25-727 1 77-5 71-0 43-0 81-9 31-2 2'56 8 3'7
May 25'790 l 77 64-0 37-0 74-0 25-2 1'35 5 4'0
June 25-875 31 60'0 29-2 69-0 19-2 0'43 2 3'2
July 25-881 * 59-1 28-8 69-3 19-5 0'69 2 2'2
Aug. 25-823 | 69-5 64-4 33-7 77'4 22' 1'35 5 3'7
Sept. 25-815 69 71-5 41-3 83-5 3 - 1 1'45 3 3'4
Oct. 25-736 59 78-9 46-7 88-2 1 3 - } 1'05 6 3'6
Nov. 25'691 53 81-2 ‘ 49-3 91-4 3 , 1'25 6 3-2
Dec. 25-688 51-5 85'9 7 54-7 93-7 4 ‘ 2'53 9 2'7
Mean ! 25-759 1 61-5 73-4 43-8 1 -— i — 22-64 72 3'3
| l 1



Jan.
Feb.
Mar.
Apr.
May
June
July
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Nov.
Dec.
Mean

E 3 B; q, >‘_‘ Shade Temperature. ,_
'1 >6‘ "‘ m
383 653 7 i=4
E12’: 235115411 Mean ‘3355' ‘ET: g
“'8” l in Max- “in- ‘ Max. Min.
. T“ w’
25-954;49-5 93-2 62-91020 56-1 2-53
25951151 928 6315,1004 57-3 2-76
25987162 852 57-9 95-5 45-2 3-90
26-028 61 795,524 89-6 39-61 1-27
26-061 61-5 70-6;44-2 81-6 32-9 1-22
2611756 66-81392 74-4 29-8 030
2614150 66-4'37-61 75-5 27-6 0-51
26-081 55 70-7 41-8 62-8 31-1 0-44
26-098;48 80-1 49-8 93-7 36-4 0'88
26-021'42-5 86-2 54-3 97-9 41-2 095
25972139 89-8 5791009 42-9 0-61
25957138 928 62311010 52'8 2-89
26-033 51 >812 520‘ _ _ 18-26‘


No. of days
on which

0’)
[O
‘ KOIJ>P>P~NN¢N>UKO><OGJ€Dl “unfun-
‘4 “4 ‘Am 4 MFM_ 8' 0157164“
1
l
'7‘
to
0—10.
Q'T‘E'T'W‘PT‘E‘QQQQLP
lQQOIwQHcMc-mwsuO


Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years.
.Aliwal North.
Lat. 30° 43'.
Long. 26° 43' E.
Distance from coast 180 miles.
Height above sea 4330 ft.
Taken at 8 4.41.
* Bulb frequently coated with ice.
Observations extend over 5 years.
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 7 years.
79


99






Bloemfontein. Umtata.
Lat. 28° 56’. Long. 26" 18’ E. Lat. 31° 45'. Long. 29° 0’ E.
Distance from coast about 290 miles. Distance from coast 37 miles.
Height above sea 4600 ft. Height above sea 2400 ft.
Taken at 9 3.111. Taken at 8 A.M.
"'3 - l 5, Shade Temperature. .... I _ "'3 - '_ Shade Temperature. ... - _
23 '53‘; 3:3 33'
3 2% 1E2 a Mean Mean Abso' Abso' ‘E.- g o i; 5J3 8 55.5 Mean Mean Abso' Abso' E'— g :5 54:]:
an,‘ , §= . lute lute d?‘ -- ,ga- Gil-1m é= - lute lute a? -< ,805
@899 i :11 Max. Min. Max. Min. Q89‘: {:1 Max. Min. Max Min. 4
Jan. 25-522 54 859 59'1 91'7 49'9 2'13 8 2'7 Jan. 27'626 96 78 8 597 993 519 3'32 9 5'8
Feb. 25'529 ‘ 56 85'0 59'1 94'1! 52'0 2'74 8 2'4 Feb. 27'673 90 786 60'4 94'6 51'4 3'83 10 6'2
Mar. 25'579 :75'5 79'0 52'7 88'0} 39'0 5'16 9 3'2 Mar. 27'664 865 75''] 56'9 91'6 47'9 4'01 11 5'7
Apr. 25'610 68 74'0 460 830‘ 347 249 8 3'0 Apr. 27-703 86 740 533 92'0 43'() 1'44 6 5'1
May 25629 1 64 66'6 372 74'!) ‘ 26'0 1'51 4 3'0 May 27'699 84 71'9 43'7 85'1 3255 2'04 5 4'0
June 25705 61 63'8 31'1 69'0 20'6 0'25 2 1'6 June 27'828 86 691 36'9 816 283 0'38 1 30
July 25'707 65 630 29'1 72‘5 20'7 0'42 3 1'5 July 27'857 85 68'8 337 807 239 0'01 0 1'8
Aug. 25'649 . 58 67‘3 35‘2 79'9 24'5 0'97 3 1'9 Aug. 27'801 ~16 715 326 87'1 29'3 0'99 4 4'4
Sept. 25'632 53 74''? 423 860 2310 0'99 3 2'5 Sept. 27838 81 71'5 46‘9 88'6 5362 1'18 7 5'2
Oct. 25'568 49 805 482 90'0 37'0 1'62 6 26 Oct. 27'796 77 73'4 527 956 39'7 3'75 11 5'9
Nov. 25526 46 83‘6 52'8 945 407 0'69 4 2'4 Nov. 27'700 78 729 55'2 93'0 43'5 2'15 10 '65
Dec. 25'530 525 871 57'0 94'0 45'0 2'32 8 2'7 Dec. 27'629 78 802 548 102'2 45'8 1'18 7 5'2
Mean 25'599 585 759 458 — —- 21'29 66 2'5 Mean 27-734 80-5 739 489 — — 2428 81 4'9
Observations extend over 5 years. Figures are ‘taken from the records of ’83, ’84, ’88, ‘89,
Mean Max. and Min. Temps. over 8 years. which are occasionally incomplete. Barometrical Observa-
tions were not taken in '84.


99
Pietermaritzburg.
Lat. 29° 46’ S. Long. 30° 13’ E.
Distance from coast 41 miles.
Height above sea 2200 ft.



Wet and dry bulb observations taken at 9 A.M.
The above figures are the best obtainable but are not ofi‘icial.

Mean
Relative Mean Absolute Absolute . Da s of Thun-
Teffifee‘m" Max. Min. Rainfall‘ Rgin. 8,3318.
January 71-6 91 56 3-27 16 12
February 73-6 71-8 91-4 58-7 4'45 14 10
March 69-7 87-4 52-6 3-40 13 9
April 65 84-5 46-3 1'58 9 7
May 58-8 79-3 39-5 '75 3 6
June 71,3 55-1 75-2 35-5 '23 1 1
July 55'7 78-2 33-7 '25 2 2
August 60-3 84-7 38-3 1'01 5 3
September 64-8 91-6 43-3 1'41 8 10
October 66-1 90-7 48-2 3-29 17 14
November 73-6 69-4 90-7 50-1 4-91 17 12
December 70-3 92-3 56-4 4'87 18 11
65 — —— 29-42 123 97


67

IMMIGRATION.
A précis of the natural and political advantages and dis-
advantages of the various parts of South Africa, which
should influence the immigrant in the choice of locality.
Much information on this subject may be gathered from
the preceding article on Topography, &c. (page 32), of
which the following may be regarded as forming the supple-
ment.
AssIsTED PASSAGES TO THE CAPE COLONY.
The narrow-minded policy embodied in the “ Afrikander
Bond” motto “South Africa for the Africanders” afl'ords
only the most meagre assistance to the emigrant. There
are no free passages at present.
On application however by a resident in the Colony to the
Assistant Commissioner of Crown Lands, for mechanics,
artisans or domestic servants, half the third class fare will be
paid by the Government, the eventual payment of the re-
mainder being a matter of arrangement between the appli-
cant and the emigrant. (Full fare—Cape Town, £10 183.
6d., East London, £11 103. 0d.) Other conditions are that
the emigrant (11) must be under 45 years of age ; (1)) must
pass a medical examination; must be approved by the
Agent General, and must contract to serve the applicant
for at least twelve months. Children under 15 are charged
one sixteenth of the above fares for every year of their age.
ASSISTED PASSAGES TO NATAL are granted on much the
same lines.
Applications must be made by Colonists to the Land and
Immigration Board to whom £5 per adult and £2 103. for
children under 12 must be paid on account of the passage
money.
Free passages are granted on certain conditions to farmers
who agree to take up land on special settlements, and to
female domestic servants of good character.
The charges in all cases include food, bedding, and
medicine. _
The Dutch Republics do not encourage immigration in
any way.


68
DISPOSAL OF CROWN LANDS IN THE
CAPE COLONY.
The land still remaining at the disposition of the Cape
Government is estimated at about 40,000,000 acres, the ,
greater part of which are situated in the arid regions to the
north of the Colony. These lands are usually disposed of
as occasion requires by auction, notice of which is given
in the Gnvemment Gazette and in the local papers with par-
ticulars as to the upset price below which the land will not
be sold.
Payment of at least one fifth of the purchased price must be
made within twelve months from the date of sale. The
remainder may remain at 4 per cent. interest, secured to
Government by mortgage on the whole property. Expenses
of survey and title deeds must be refunded by the purchaser.
Government retains the right to construct railroads, etc,
on the land on payment of a fair compensation and also re-
serves to the Crown any gold, silver, or precious stones that
may exist.
Land which has failed to sell at the upset price may be
leased under certain special conditions for a term not
exceeding three years. These conditions vary, and are
settled at the time the lease is made out.
Grants of land of from 10 to 250 morgen (one mor-
gen = 2'11654 acres) in extent may also be made by the
Governor to approved applicants upon a quit-rent of 5 per
cent. of the value of the ground under the following condi-
tions : (a) The applicant must deposit 1s. per morgen applied
for ; (1)) he must not be the owner elsewhere of 250 morgen or
upwards ; (c) the application must be for his exclusive bene-
fit ; after obtaining licence he must take up his residence
on the land within six months and must reside there three
years ; (6) within two years he must bring under cultivation
one twentieth part of his allotment or must enclose it with
a fence.
Forest land is not granted. The land may be redeemed
at any time at the full valuation price.
Crown lands in Bechuanaland extend over an
area of 30,000 square miles and are disposed of by private


69
contract. Settlers may select any unoccupied demarcated
farm, 3000 morgen (6350 acres) in extent of which they
may obtain possession on payment of inspection fees (gene-
rally under £20), £50 in cash and an annual quit-rent of £12 0
10s. redeemable at 20 years’ purchase.
Crown lands in Natal still unalienated are com-
paratively limited in extent and barely reach 3,000,000
acres, of which 1,250,000 are in process of alienation.
Lands fitted for cultivation are sold by auction in lots of
from ten to 2000 acres under the following conditions; a,
the purchaser to pay cost of survey; 11, he or his agent to
occupy the land during nine consecutive months of each year
for ten years ; c, one-twentieth of the purchase money to be
paid in cash and one-twentieth at the close of each year, no
interest being charged; d, not less than one per cent. of
the land to be cultivated; e, the reserve price to be not
less than 10s. per acre.
Lots not exceeding 320 acres of agricultural or 1000
acres of pastoral land may be sold by public auction to the
highest bidder under a reserve price of 20s. per acre and
without any condition save that the purchase money must
be paid within three months.
New settlements are laid out from time to time for the
benefit of British immigrants who must be possessed of at
least £200 to £250 capital. In these cases the emigrant
may purchase an allotment of from 250 to 500 acres of land
suitable for agriculture at from 10s. per acre, payable by
easy instalments. .
In the Transvaal all right to unoccupied lands is
vested in the Burghers of the Republic and except in
special cases letters of naturalisation can only be obtained
after a residence of five years.
In the Chartered Company’s territory persons
in a position to start farming at once are allowed to select and
beacon ofi' fifteen hundred morgen of ground on the following
terms (I) that the ground chosen is not beneficially occupied
by any one else and is not within an area where the presence
of gold is known or indicated (2) that the farm is not
within three miles of a township (3) that farming is to
be commenced within five months either by the applicant


70
or an approved substitute (4) an annual quitrrent in
advance of £3 will be charged (5) and that the applicant
holds himself liable to serve in defence of the country if
called upon to do so by the Company. Mineral rights, &0.,
are reserved.
In Zululand the settlement of Europeans is not
usually permitted.
In Swaziland farms can only be obtained through
concessions from the Chief and are beyond the scope of
ordinary immigration.
State-Aided Irrigation is authorised in the Cape
Colony, Government loans being secured by first mortgage
upon the lands irrigated. These advances are repayable in
yearly sums extending over a period of not more than
twenty-four years ,' plans and specifications, according to
which the work must be executed, are supplied free by the
Government.
In addition plant for sinking artesian wells, together
with an eflicient foreman to direct operations, are provided
practically free of expense, or the plant can be purchased
for about £140. Boring in the Karroo and other dry
places has been so successful that farming in South Africa
may be quite revolutionised during the next few years, and
the results will perhaps awaken public opinion to the wealth
which would follow on the proper employment of the water
in the Orange and other rivers now running to waste.
The foregoing information is a concise statement of the
facilities afforded by Government to immigrants, fully detailed
particulars of which are obtainable either at the Crown
Lands’ offices in the Colonies or from the Colonial Agents iri
London. It must be borne in mind that as a rule the
most favourably situated lands are the first to be occupied
and that consequently the newcomer, if he takes advantage
of the profi'ers of the Government, cannot expect to be so
advantageously situated as he might wish. If possessed
of a fair capital he will probably do better by availing
himself of some one of the frequent opportunities of
purchase from private individuals, or by applying to such
‘corporations as the Natal Land and Colonisation Co., &c.
A transfer duty of four per cent. is charged on the


71
purchase price of land. The admirable system of registra-
tion Of title-deeds which prevails throughout South
Africa renders any difliculties subsequent to transfer impos-
sible.
A primary consideration in the purchase of land in a
country where water carriage is unknown except at a few
points on the coast, is the question of transport and the
settler must remember that the finest grain crops are
worthless if it becomes necessary to carry them any great
distance by ox-wagon. Consequently land not in the near
neighbourhood of railway or port and with no local market
is seldom suitable for agricultural pursuits and the settler
in these districts would more advantageously turn his
attention to stock.
Another consideration of some importance to the settler
unaoquainted with the country and one which must influ-
ence his choice of locality is the distribution of the two
dominant white races in South Africa. An Englishman
naturally prefers to be among his own countrymen but in
this instance it is not merely a question of sentiment.
Although race hatred cannot be said to exist, at least in the
Colonies, the country Boer does not as a rule regard the
Britisher with a favourable eye and the latter would have
to depend entirely on his own resources at a time when in-
telligent advice is almost a necessity.
The Boer element prevails in the Western Provinces and
in the Dutch Republics, the British in the Eastern Provinces
and Natal. A considerable number of Germans, mostly
located in the Eastern Provinces, are largely engaged in
market gardening, and are doing extremely well.
Productions, The great extent of the country and
the varying altitude allow of the cultivation in one part or
another of almost every kind of crop.
WHEAT of the finest quality is cultivated largely in the
South—Western and Queenstown Provinces of the Cape
Colony and also on a smaller scale in Natal, but in neither
instance in sufficient quantities to supply the requirements
of the country. Wheat can be grown in almost any part of
South Africa.
BARLEY, 041's and FURAGE are grown in all the more


72
temperate districts and are mainly used for horse fodder.
Forage in South Africa implies unthreshed oat sheaves.
MAIZE or INDIAN Coax, more generally known as mealies,
is mainly grown by natives for their own consumption.
This crop requires moisture and succeeds best in Natal and
parts of the Transvaal.
KAFFIR CoRN, a species of millet, is also grown mostly by
natives who use it as food and in the manufacture of Kafiir
beer.
RICE of good quality is grown on the banks of the Olifants
River in the Cape Colony.
POTATOES, as well as nearly every other variety of European
vegetables, succeed in all parts.
SUGAR. forms the main crop of the Natal coast lands
where’ an average yield of nearly two tons per acre is
obtained.
Tomcco is grown nearly everywhere and of varying
quality. The best varieties come from the Southern Karoo
and the Transvaal.
COFFEE is grown on the coast lands of Natal but with in-
different success. The yield has largely fallen off and many
of the plantations have been replanted with TEA—-Wl1i0h
bids fair to form a lucrative industry.
CAYENNE PEPPER and ARROWRDOT are also grown on a
small scale in the same districts.
South Africa, however is mainly a pastoral country.
A glance at the figures of the imports and exports of any
year will show that the agricultural products sent out of the
country are insignificant and that few of the food necessaries,
with the exception of meat, are raised in sufficient quantities
for local consumption.
WooL, OSTRICH FEATHERS, ANGURA HAIR and HlDhS are,
with the exception of minerals, the only items of importance,
and S'rocK FARMING of various kinds must be regarded as
the staple industry.
Referring to the previous remarks under “ Irrigation,” it
is certain that the same land which now produces nothing
but hides, &c., at the rate of two to four morgen to each
sheep or goat, is capable, under irrigation, of supporting as
large a population to the square mile as any soil in the


73
world. The rich valley of the Paarl, the chief orchard
of Cape Colony, whence come the grapes and peaches which
are sent to England, is not so extraordinarily fertile as the
Karroo land when water can be had. Its richness seems
miraculous, one side of a wire fence being stunted veldt,
and the other a garden where the weight of the fruit
often uproots the tree it grows on, and where a succession
of crops are gathered year after year without more manure
than a little water.
Over and above the cultivation of ordinary crops there is
a growing demand for fruit for jams and for export, and
for vegetables, butter, &c., for the towns. Market gardens
should be a most profitable investment. There are also
cheese, bacon, lard, olive oil, almonds, tobacco, manufactures
in which tallow is required, dried fruits, vegetable fibres,
the canning of fish, as well as the established industries
of wine, brandy, and vinegar making, all offering fields
for enterprise to those who really mean to do their best.
Undoubtedly one of the principal causes of the great pre-
ponderance of pastoral over agricultural pursuits is to be -
found in the unsatisfactory nature of the
Native Labour
obtainable, which is always liable to fail the farmer at the
moment when it is most indispensable.
In the Dutch Republics where, strangely enough, the
authorities persist in disregarding the equality of the naked,
lazy and polygamous savage with his white brother, this
difliculty is not so severely felt, but in the Colonies, where
the employer’s sole remedy for all misdemeanours is to bring
the culprit before the magistrate whose sentence means a
weeks holiday for the one and additional loss of time to the
other, it is not surprising that food supplies have year after
year fallen below the requirements of the country.
Natal affords a striking phase of the difficulties of the
native question. In that Colony the Kafiirs are about
fourteen to one compared with the whites but, such is the
inadequate nature of the labour supply, that over 30,000
Indians have been imported from India without whose


74
services the numerous plantations of this prosperous little
Colony could not be worked for a day.
Indians in Natal are indentured for five years at
wages ranging from 10s. to 14s. per month for adult males
and 5s. to 7s. for females; rations, medical attendance and
lodging must also be provided by the employer in accordance
with Government regulations. The passage money of £17 10s.
must be paid in yearly instalments of £3 10s.
Timber.
South Africa is very poorly wooded, the principal forests
being found near the Knysna and in the eastern portions of
the colony. These are all strictly conserved and licences to
cut timber are very high ranging from ld. to ls. per cubic foot.
There is also a certain quantity of timber in Natal.
The Cape Government takes some 100,000 sleepers a
year, a large proportion of which comes from the Knysna,
where there are several saw-mills. Sleepers are made of the
yellow wood and creosoted, whilst spokes, naves and other
parts of waggons, pick handles, &c., are generally turned in
stink wood. There are a number of valuable trees besides
these, and the preservation of the forests, which is now
occupying serious attention, should lead to a permanent
improvement in the timber industry.
Mining.
Openings for experienced miners are still to be found but
are not nearly so numerous as vformerly. The principal
mining at present carried on is at Kimberley for DIAMONDS,
in several districts of the Transvaal, &c., for GOLD and in Nama-
qualand for COPPER.‘ The emigrant must however bear in mind
that with two or three insignificant exceptions the nature of
the_formations in which the gold and diamonds occur render
it difficult for the independent digger to make a living.
Alluvial deposits of both exist in various parts of the
country, but in no instance at present ofi'er any solid
inducement to the digger. Diamonds occur in the banks
and bed of the Vaal River for a distance of about 70 miles


75
in the neighbourhood of Kimberley, a population of about
900 men being employed in the diggings which yield about
£50,000 worth of diamonds per annum or an average of
£55 per head.
The richest alluvial gold fields hitherto discovered are in
the Lydenburg district of the Transvaal where nuggets of
many pounds weight have been unearthed, but much of the
ground has been Worked out and more is in the hands of
companies.
The colonial gold fields of Knysna and Prince Albert have
proved utterly disappointing and it is doubtful whether a
three ounce nugget has ever been found in either Cape
Colony or N atal.
Mashonaland is no doubt full of gold, but the alluvial has
already been thoroughly worked by the ancients.
Prospectors may of course draw a prize at any time, but
prospecting is not only a hazardous employment but also
one which is not well fitted to the ordinary emigrant, who
is much more likely to get on by remaining steadily at work.
Silver is found in the Transvaal, but next to gold and
diamonds, on which South Africa relies for its immediate
future, the most important mineral is coal. This is found
only in elevated positions where it has not been carried
away by the action of time. On the upper plains it is
found nearly everywhere from the Stormberg Mountains to
the Portuguese territory on the Zambesi.
In close contact with coal there are enormous iron
deposits, especially in Natal and the Transvaal, besides
which there are lead, cobalt, tin, asbestos, and other
minerals, most of which are awaiting development.
The amalgamation and shutting down of so many of the
diamond mines makes gold by far the most important
product as far as South‘ Africa is concerned. As this
cannot be profitably extracted without the use of the most
improved ‘machinery and processes of extraction, companies
take the place of individuals. These companies aflford,
however, employment to numbers of men, and with the
Beira railway opened, and the monopolies referred to under
the heading “Transvaal” done away with, the number of
skilled miners now employed will have to be largely
supplemented.


76
The Game of South Africa.
When first discovered by Europeans the South African
Continent swarmed with game in number and variety never
equalled elsewhere. From one end of the land to the other
the names given by the early settlers to mountain, river and
plain attest the presence in those days of a host of noble
and beautiful fauna, most of which have wholly disappeared
from their former resorts. Lions were common even on the
shores of Table Bay and van Riebeck is said to have met
with one in his own garden. Antelopes-of which there were
over twenty varieties roamed in millions over the central
plains, accompanied by vast herds of quagga and zebra.
But the wanton destruction of two centuries has worked
fearful havoc among these beautiful creatures and now many
districts are almost destitute of animal life of any sort,
while tlYe true quagga and perhaps the roan antelope have
been totally exterminated, and others, such as the gnu and
the bontebok, only preserved to the Colony by the efforts of
individual farmers. Only in the north of the Transvaal and
the unhealthy districts of the north-east can any of the
nobler of the South African fauna be seen; here probably
for a few years to come will be found the sable antelope,
the orijx, the white-tailed and brindled gnu and the giraffe,
till they too shall have been annihilated by the Boer hunter
who is quite satisfied if he can fill his wagon with horns and
skins and cares not one jot for the extinction of a species.
In recent years however, steps have been taken by the
Cape Government to put an end within the limits of the
Colony to this indiscriminate butchering, and with a view
to remedy in some measure the evils of the past the Game
Law has been supplemented by the Amendment Act of 1886,
by which special protection was accorded to the elephant,
hippopotamus, buffalo, eland, koodoo, haartebeest, boschbok,
bontebok, blesbok, rietbok, zebra, quagga and wildebeest,
none of which might be shot for the space of three years
without special permission from the Governor of the Colony.
The Game Law provides for the following close
seasons :


77
From the 1st August to 31st January in the following
districts: .
Aberdeen, Albany, Albert, Alexandria, Aliwal North,
Barkly East, Bathurst, Beaufort West, Bedford, Oarnarvon,
Calvinia, Cathcart, Ceres, Colesberg, Cradock, East London,
Fort Beaufort, Fraserburg, George, Glen Gray, Graaf Reinet,
Hanover, Herschel, Hope Town, Humansdorp, Jansenville,
King Williams Town, Knysna, Komgha, Middelburg, Nama-
qualand, Peddie, Philipstown, Port Elizabeth, Port N olloth,
Prieska, Prince Albert, Queens Town, Richmond, Somerset
East, Steynsberg, Stockenstroom, Stutterheim, Sutherland,
Tarka, Tulbagh, Uitenhage, Victoria East and West, Wode-
house and Worcester.
From 1st July to 31st January in the following dis-
tricts :
Bredasdorp, Caledon, Cape, Clanwilliam, Ladismith,
Malmesbury, Mossel Bay, Murraysburg, Oudtshoorn, Paarl,
Piquetberg, Riversdale, Robertson, Simons Town, Stellen-
bosch, Swellendam, Uniondale, and Willowmore.
From 16th August to 15th March in the following :
_ Kimberley, Barkly West, Hay, Herbert, Transkei, Gale-
kaland, Griqualand East.
In addition to the close seasons the local authorities in
any district may prohibit the killing of game, when scarce,
for a term of years. As such terms are constantly expiring,
being renewed, etc., the reader is referred to the Agricultural
Journal published in Cape Town and filed at the British
Museum, etc.
In Natal the close season for the partridge, pheasant,
dikkop, guinea-fowl, hare and (antelopes) the impala, rhee-
bok, steenbok, boschbok, bluebok, klipspringer and duiker
extends from the 15th August to the 30th April. A special
licence from the Governor is necessary for hunting the
hippopotamus, eland, haartebeest, koodoo, rietbok, spring.
bok, blesbok, ostrich, secretary-bird and turkey-blizzard,
pauw, koorhaan, other antelopes not named, ((20.
The results of the Game Amendment Act appear to be
eminently satisfactory as it is officially stated that “the
rarer and more beautiful antelopes are becoming in certain
districts more numerous than at any previous time within


78
living memory, while game generally is plentiful throughout
the length and breadth of the land ”.
In the Transvaal the hunting season extends from the
1st February to the 15th September. The elephant and
the hippopotamus are protected.
In the Orange Free State the close season has led to so
great an increase in the numbers of some of the antelopes
that it will probably be extended or even done away with
for a time.
The following enumeration of the principal South African
fauna with their habitats, incomplete as it must necessarily
be from the difliculty of obtaining reliable information on
such a complex subject, may prove of service to the
intending sportsman.
The lion, once so plentiful throughout Cape Colony,
may be regarded as extinct south of the Vaal or Orange
Rivers, but still exists in large numbers in the north of
the Transvaal and in the territories beyond the Limpopo.
The natives distinguish between several varieties, via, the
white, red and grey-necked lion, the last of which is con-
sidered particularly ferocious. The length of the full-grown
South African lion is about 12 feet from nose to tip of tail,
height at shoulder 40 inches, weight 500 to 600 lbs., the
lioness averaging 25 to 30 per cent. less than the male. Buffon
states their length of life at from 20 to 30 years, but this is
probably underestimated. They are gregarious in habit,
generally hunting in troops of six or eight, although they
are frequently met with alone or in pairs. As a rule they
will not attack man, but when pressed by hunger there
is no limit to their daring and they have been known to
venture inside a wagon in search of food. Their strength is
enormous, a full-grown lion being able to leap a wall with
a bullock in his mouth and according to Delagorgne they
can cover 18 paces at a bound. The most deadly shot is
between the eyes.
A bullet behind the shoulder, although it may pierce the
heart, does not always prove immediately fatal nor prevent
the deadly spring. A safer shot is probably at the shoulder
itself which disables the animal by breaking the bone.


79
The leopard, invariably misnamed the tiger in South
Africa, is still common in nearly every mountain district
and often proves very destructive to the herds and flocks of
the farmers who poison and trap them in large numbers.
They will seldom attack man unless wounded, when they
become most dangerous, and many fatal accidents have
occurred in encounters with them when brought to bay.
The length of the full—grown leopard is six to seven feet
from nose to tip of tail, the tail itself measuring about
three feet. The rare and beautiful black leopard is
occasionally met with, a fine specimen may be seen in the
Grahamstown museum.
The elephant has only been preserved from extermina-
tion in the Colony by the strictest preservation. Their
habitat is now confined to the Knysna and Tzitzikama
forests and to the neighbouring Addo Bush, forming a
narrow strip of country about 250 miles long. Hunters
must obtain a special permission from the Governor to
shoot them. Elsewhere in‘ the Colony and in the Trans-
vaal, where 50 years ago they were met with in herds
of several hundreds, they have been exterminated, with
perhaps the exception of a few in the neighbourhood of the
Porfliguese border. Even between the Limpopo and the
Zambesi they are growing very scarce and the rapidly
decreasing supply of ivory is now drawn principally from
Central Africa. Some idea may be obtained of the falling
off of this trade by comparing the Colonial exports of 1875
valued at £60,402 with those of 1888 valued at £2089.
The African elephant differs very considerably from the
Indian species, most noticeably so in the ears which are of
enormous size. Anderson states that the ears of a bull when
extended in charging measure as much as 14 feet across
the forehead from tip to tip. The formation of the skull
also differs, the soft depression, so fatal‘ to many an Indian
elephant, being quite wanting and the brain being placed
lower in the head. These peculiarities render the forehead-shot
almost always ineffectual and Sir Samuel Baker states that on
only one occasion has he succeeded in killing an elephant
with this shot. The female is always tusked but more
lightly than the male, the tusks of the former averaging 15


80
to 25 lbs. and those of the latter about 120 lbs. A
single tusk however has been known to weigh 300 lbs. The
hearing and scent of the elephant are most acute and
few hunters when on foot care to attack him in the open.
They have a great antipathy to noise and in the Knysna
have been driven from many of their haunts by the mining
operations carried on in the midst of the forest. When
found trespassing on the roads they are easily scared away
by whip-cracking, etc. Their age is uncertain, but in
captivity they have been known to live 120 years. At one
time the Romans used the elephant as the symbol of eternity.
The rhinoceros was formerly spread over the whole
of South Africa and we read of one charging Governor van
der Stel’s coach near Cape Town in 1685. The black
rhinoceros lingered in the recesses of the Addo Bush till
the middle of the present century but all varieties are now
extinct in the Colony and Transvaal. The varieties still
found in the remoter parts of South Africa are the Keitloa,
length from nose to base of tail 11 feet 1 inch, height at
shoulder 5 feet, circumference of belly 9 feet 8 inches, the
R. Bicornis, somewhat smaller and the R. Simius, length 12
feet, height at shoulder 5 feet 7 inches, circumference of
belly 12 feet 1 inch. All three varieties are provided with
two horns, but with the exception of the R. Bicornis the
back horn is not much developed.
The hippopotamus formerly abounded in every
river of the Colony but it is now confined to the neighbour-
hood of the mouth of the Orange River. A few still exist
in the Zululand streams in the neighbourhood of the sea-
coast and they are more plentiful in the rivers of the
Portuguese territory. The skin, one and a half inches to two
inches thick, is valued for making sjamboks (hide whips) and
the tusks, formerly used in the manufacture of artificial teeth,
once fetched a high price. The length from tail to snout is
about 14 feet and they are only second in bulk and weight
to the elephant. The fatal shots are beneath the eye and
behind the ear.
The buffalo still exists in the Tzitzikama and Knysna
forests and in the Addo Bush where the dense scrub renders
it very dangerous to hunt. With these exceptions they are


81
not found south of the Limpopo. As a rule they inhabit
marshy ground and share with the lion the distinction of
being the most dangerous opponents the hunter can meet with.
A bufi'alo has been known to drive one of his horns clean
through a horse’s breast and out through the saddle. They
may not be shot in the Colony or Natal without permission.
The giraffe, miscalled by the Dutch kameel or
camel, appears to have been always rare in the Colony. It
is now quite extinct, but may be found in small numbers in
the north of the Transvaal. A full-grown giraffe stands
from 18 to 19 feet high measured in a perpendicular line
from the head to the ground. The skin is valued by the
Dutch for whip lashes it being possible to cut a strip 20 feet
long down the back.
The zebra is still met with in some of the wilder
mountains of the Eastern Provinces; a variety almost in-
variably confounded with the extinct- quagga, exists in con-
siderable numbers in the north of the Transvaal, but differs
from the true zebra in the sienna-coloured markings be-
tween the black stripes, and in its more graceful proportions.
The body colour of the true zebra is pure white and the black
markings extend to the hoof. The QUAGGA on the other
hand with which it is often confounded was only striped to
the centre of the body. The last named beautiful animal
has been exterminated, although only a generation back it
was found in immense numbers on the plains of the Free
State. It is stated by Bryden never to have been met with
north of the Vaal River so that it is highly improbable that
any of this species can have found refuge in less accessible
parts of the Continent.
The antelopes are known principally by their Dutch
names. Inappropriate as they invariably are, they have too
great a hold ever to fall into disuse and the English names
are frequently only a corruption of the Dutch :—
The eland (lit. elk ; oreas canna) is almost extinct
south of the Limpopo. It is the largest of the antelopes,
weighing from 900 to 1000 lbs. Length from horns to base
of tail 8 feet 11 inches ; horns 2 feet 10 inches long; height
at shoulder 5 feet 9% inches. They are unsuspieious in
their habits and their meat being excellent no doubt accounts


82

for their disappearance from the plains where they formerly
abounded.
The bastard haartebeest (lit. stag-ox; bubalus
lunatus. Eng. Sassaby) length 6 feet 10 inches ; height at
withers 4 feet. Bare in South Africa.
The zwaart-wit-pans (lit. black with white belly;
Aegocerus niger ,- Eng. sable antelope) is still found in the
north of the Transvaal.
The blauwbok (lit. blue goat ; hippotragus leuco-
phaeus; Eng. roan antelope) is probably all but extinct.
' It was formerly common in the Swellendam district. The
horns are sharp pointed and inclined backward. This ante-
lope is slightly larger than a fallow deer.
KOQdoo (Hottentot name ,' strepsiceros kudu) is the
most plentiful of the large antelopes. It is found in con-
siderable numbers in the Eastern Provinces and elsewhere.
The horns are long and spiral and the hide is converted into
excellent leather. The height at the withers is thirteen to
thirteen and a half hands. '
The gemsbok (lit. chamois ; oryx capensis ; Eng.
oryx) is found in the extreme north of Cape Colony, in the
Kalahari desert and in the German territories to the north
of the Orange River. It stands 46 inches at the shoulder
and is furnished with sharp straight horns, 3 feet long.
The head is pure white with black markings. It has fre-
quently been known to boat off the attacks of the lion and
the two skeletons have been found lying together, that of
the latter transfixed on the terrible horns of the former. It
figures on the Cape coat of arms and is in all probability
the origin of the unicorn, the two horns, when seen in pro-
file, appearing as one.
Bontebok (acelaphus pygargus. Eng. pied or har-
nessed antelope) formerly ‘plentiful everywhere but now
extinct in the Colony and Free State with the exception of
a few preserved near Cape Agulhas. It is still found in the
Transvaal and Bechuanaland. The horns are 9 inches long,
pointing backward ; the coat is tawny in colour with peculiar
white markings from which it derives its name.
Blesbok (acelaphus albefrons) so called from the white
blaze on the face. It is very rare within the Colony, but is


83
shot occasionally in. the Free State and more frequently in
the Transvaal. The horns are 16 in. long pointing upwards
and outwards.
Springbok (lit. jumping goat; gazella euchore) one
of the most plentiful of the antelopes and found through-
out the Colony but principally in the north and in the
mountainous districts. Also in the Free State, Transvaal
and adjoining territories. It stands 32 in. at the shoulder
and is 58 in. long. The horns are 12 in. to 14 in. long,
black, annulated and bent inward.
Rietbok (eleotragus arundinaceous) found in the north
of the Colony, Griqualand West and the territories to the
north; more rarely in the Eastern provinces and Natal.
Length 4 ft. 5 in.; height 34 in.; weight 80 to 100 lbs; a
slow runner. Horns very fine, 15 in. long and inclined
forward. -
Vaal (grey) rhebok (pelea capreola), fairly plentiful
in many of the mountain ranges of the Colony and Natal
but seldom seen on low ground. Height at shoulder 2 ft.
6 in. ; length 5 ft. ; horns straight and pointed, 9 in. long.
It is very shy and swift and can seldom be run down.
Rooi (red) rhebok (eleotragus reduncus) generally
found in the neighbourhood of the grey rhebok but on
lower ground.
Klipspringer (oreotragus saltatrix; English rock-buck
sometimes called the klipbok). Still plentiful on the more
rugged and solitary mountains, where, owing to the nature
of its habitat and its extreme agility, it is not likely to
become extinct. It stands 22 in. at the shoulder, is sturdily
built and is furnished with straight short horns.
Haartebeest (lit. stag ox,——acelaphus eaama) is found
in the neighbourhood of the Orange River, in the north of
the Colony and in the territories beyond. It stands 3 ft.
11 in. at the withers, is 6 ft. 11 in. in length and weighs 4
to 5 cwts. The horns rise from a peculiar bony protuber-
ance on the skull. The body colour is chestnut. It is
swift and shy.
Zwaart wildebeest (lit. black wild ox; catoblepas
gnu; Eng., white-tailed gnu), is extinct within Cape
Colony except in the province of Victoria West, where it is


84
preserved. It is one of the supporters of the Cape Colony
coat of arms.
Blaauw wildebeest (lit. blue wild ox; catoblepas
gorgon ; Eng., brindled gnu). Always rare in the Colony
and now extinct south of the Vaal and Orange. It is
still found in considerable herds- in the north of the
Transvaal. Length from nose to base of tail, 7 ft. 4 in.;
horns 1 ft. 9 in. long; height at shoulder 4 ft.
Steenbok (lit. stone goat; tragulus rupestris), one of
the smallest and most beautiful of the antelopes, stands
'20 in. high at shoulder and is 35 in. long, with short
straight horns 4 in. long. It is found almost everywhere
in hilly grounds particularly when of a stony and bushy
character.
Blaauwbok or kleenebok (lit. blue or little goat;
cephalopus pygmaeus) the smallest of the antelopes, scarcely
larger than a guinea-pig. This little creature is plentiful
on the eastern coast of the Colony.
A variety known as the CEPHALOPUS NATALIENSIS, found
in Natal, is slightly larger than the Cape specimen and has
conical horns.
Duiker (lit. diver ; cephalopus mergens), plentiful
throughout South Africa in bushy country. It stands 2 ft.
high with short straight horns 4 in. long, is dark brown in
colour and has gained its name by its habit of diving into
the thickest bush when alarmed.
BOSChbOk (lit. bush buck; tragelaphus sylvaticus),
common in the bush country of the Eastern Provinces. It
is a slow runner and easily caught in the open but will fight
when brought to bay and barks like a dog.
Grijsbok (nanotragus melanotis) a variety of the steen-
bok with the same habitat as the boschbok.
Bleekbok (nanotragus scoparius ; Eng: ourebi) found
in Somerset East and other parts of the Eastern Provinces
and Natal. It stands about 22 in. high and weighs about
30 lbs. Horns 5 in. long ringed and inclined backward.
A few other varieties of the antelope as well as the hyena,
wolf, wild dog and jackal are to be found in the less
settled parts of the country. The first, with its immensely
powerful jaws, is, fortunately for the flocks and herds,


85
becoming scarce in the Colony. The jackal is valued for
his skin, from which beautiful rugs are made.
The wild pig is found in the Eastern Provinces and
baboons abound in almost every mountain range.
With regard to the Game Birds of South Africa
Bryden says “the sportsman of these islands of ours who
wanders now-a-days so far afield in search of game Whether
furred or feathered can have but little conception of the
diversity of feathered game that lies everywhere at hand in
South Africa or I imagine that the Cape Colony would be
much more exploited by fowlers than it has been hitherto.
Within the Colony alone there are to be found no less than
five or six kinds of FRANCOLIN, six or seven kinds of
BUSTARDS, two species of QUAILS, one of GUINEA—FOWL, one or
two of the SAND GRUUSE family and two sorts of SNIPE.
In this list I have not included WILD DUCK, WILD GEESE,
TEAL, WIDGEON and RAILS, many of the species of which
abound”.
The largest wild bird of South Africa is of course the
ostrich which may still be found running wild in some
parts of the Colony ; prior to its domestication it bid fair to
become in a few years as extinct as the dodo. The wild
birds of the Colony are principally tame birds which have
been turned adrift by the farmers in unprofitable seasons.
The true wild bird still exists north of the Vaal and Orange
Rivers but is rapidly diminishing in numbers being eagerly
hunted for its feathers which fetch a far higher price than
those of his domesticated brethren.
Bustards.—Next in size is the great Kori bus-
tard, named by the Dutch gompauw or gum peacock
from its supposed fondness for the gum of the mimosa tree.
A cock bird will sometimes stand 5 ft. high and will weigh
up to 60 lbs. but the female is considerably smaller. These
birds can seldom be killed with a shot gun.
Another variety of the bustard is the koorhaan,
about the size of a large fowl. It is a great runner and
fairly abundant everywhere in South Africa, its irritatingly
harsh croak soon becoming familiar to the sportsman. A
rarer variety the blue koorhaan is found principally
in the Eastern Provinces.


86
The foregoing notes will show that although some of the
smaller antelopes are fairly numerous throughout the Colony
and that occasionally a few of the nobler species may be met
with, yet the sportsman whose soul thirsts after big game
must go further afield.
The most accessible hunting grounds left are the
east and south east of the Transvaal; the Portuguese
Territory north of the Pungwe River and comparatively
close to Beira; and the country some 30 miles to the north
and north west of Fort Salisbury. The first affords good
all round shooting especially as regards antelopes; the
second is the most varied and the district still teems with
millions of all sorts of game ; the third is excellent and the
sable and roan antelopes are common. It is trusted that
the sportsmen who go there to shoot will remember that
there are others who would like to come after them.
The healthiest season of the year in which to visit those
parts is during the winter months from May to November
inclusive when little or no rain falls, whereas during the
wet summer months fever is very prevalent in most of the
low lying districts and some parts of the country are quite
uninhabitable.
The outfit necessary for such a trip includes a tent-
waggon and team of 12 to 16 oxen, costing altogether from
£180 to £300. These waggons are Colonial made, without
springs, covered in with canvas and exceedingly strong.
The woods employed are also principally of Colonial growth.
A special pattern is made for lip-country trips, giving an
extra breadth over the wheels and provided with lockers for
provisions, &c., which are far more commodious than the
ordinary tent Waggon in which sleeping accommodation is
decidedly limited.
Two boys, as the natives are invariably called, are required
to look after the oxen. The first, the driver, receiving
about £4 per month, carries the whip, an instrument with a
handle 12 ft. and lash 20 ft. long used with both hands,
after the manner of a rod in fly-fishing and terribly punish-
ing in the hands of an expert but apt to curl painfully
round the person of the amateur. On a heavy road the
driver runs alongside the oxen urging them on with yells


87
accentuated with lashes from his enormous whip which fall
on their hides with cracks like pistol shots. A thick heavy
sy'amboh~ of hippopotamus hide is also carried for the benefit
of the “aachter osse” or wheelers. These, with the span
in front of them being. well within reach, come in for the
most generous share of encouragement, and it is rarely that
in an up-country Boer’s team one of this unfortunate
quartette does not rejoice in the name of the Englishman.
The second “boy,” who is often literally a lad, receives
about 30s. per month and is known as the “ voor-looper ” or
fore-runner, his duty being to lead the front span of oxen
by means of a leather rein attached to their horns when
there is any chance of their straying off the road. Occasion-
ally, when the driver’s throat has temporarily succumbed to
gutturals unapproachable by an Englishman, he takes a
turn at the whip and shouting. He has also to keep an eye
on the oxen when grazing and prevent their wandering.
Taking one day with another on ordinary roads oxen will
not cover much more than fifteen miles, but when roads are
heavy and oxen poor it is often hard work to do more than
five.
It is also advisable to take at least one more boy to see
to the cooking, beds, &c. Any others that may be required
are best picked up en route, as they then know the country
and can serve as guides.
A horse for each white member of the party will also be
required and these should not cost more than £15 a-piece
as they will not be wanted for show. If the trip is to be
extended beyond the Winter months “salted” horses, viz.
those that have been attacked by and recovered from the
horsesickness, should be bought as others will certainly
succumb to this disease. The price of salted horses is much
higher, ranging from £35 to £100, but comparative im-
munity from a recurrence of the sickness renders them
worth the money.
The choice of guns is a difficult thing on which to
advise and must mainly depend on the nature and size of
the game which may be met with. The Boers as a rule use
nothing but the military pattern of the Martini-Henri rifle
for every kind of game but the elephant, and consequently,


88
unless far away from any centre, ammunition for this rifle
can always be obtained. The Boers frequently keep the
old cases and refill them, but if this be done care must be
taken to push the detonator right home, as fatal accidents
have occurred through the block in rising exploding the
cartridge.
For elephants, of course, a far heavier rifle is necessary.
In many Dutch farm-houses the old smooth-bore elephant
“roer” may still be seen, carrying a 4 oz. spherical bullet
and weighing 30 lbs. or more, with which the hunters of a
century ago decimated many a herd. The flint lock seems
to have died hard in this land of conservatives and some old
patriarchs still claim its supremacy over the modern weapon
for night shooting when the preliminary flash in the pan
allowed the hunter to pick out the vital spot in his quarry,
seldom more than a few yards distant. '
For the heaviest game Sir Samuel Baker recommends a
pair of double No. 8 rifles, weighing 14 to 15 lbs. each and
burning 12 to 14 drams of powder, with a hardened bullet
weighing 3 oz. With regard to smaller game he says, “ For
all animals above the size of a fallow deer and below that of
a buffalo I prefer the ‘577 express, 648 grains solid bullet
and 6 drams powder, not 6%. For game smaller than fallow
deer downwards I prefer the ‘400 express with a charge of
from 85 grains to 4 drams of powder and a solid bullet.”
He also particularly cautions those who may meet with‘
dangerous animals from using the hollow bullet which is
liable to break up into small shot against the bones and
harder muscles. For antelope the Winchester Repeater will
be found a good all-round useful weapon.
In reference to other outfit and stores the purchaser must
bear in mind that although it will be of the greatest incon-
venience to overload the Waggon, at the same time his Waggon
is to be his home for at least some months during the
greater part of which he will be unable to purchase anything
whatever. His baggage must therefore be limited to
necessaries but nothing necessary must be left behind.
If, as is emphatically recommended, he choose the
winter season, he is never likely to experience better
health in his life, but quinine should be taken for fever and
chlorodine for dysentery.


90
secutive traditions being handed down through any con-
siderable number of generations. The occasional dis~
coveries in river beds and recent alluvial deposits of stone
implements and weapons prove the country to have been
inhabited from the earliest times and, from the total absence
of ruins of any importance south of the Limpopo, we may
infer that these people, whoever they were, never rose above
the condition of savages.
Conjecture has long been busy with the traces of an
ancient civilisation discovered between the Limpopo and
Zambesi Rivers and the recent researches of the Chartered
Company will doubtless ere long throw a stronger light on
these interesting remains.
The earliest historical record which undoubtedly refers to
the eircumnavigation of South Africa is the well known
passage in Herodotus (Melpomene. 42) where he mentions
the fact of an Egyptian fleet despatched by Neeho about
600 13.0., which, manned by Phoenicians, sailed southward
from the Red Sea and returned two years afterwards
through the Pillars of Hercules. It is also probable that
the expedition of Sesostris (Ramses IL), about 11.0. 1400, men-
tioned by the same author (Euterpe. 102) refers to the
African Coast perhaps as far south as Madagascar and that
the Indians who collected gold dust by means of ants
(Thalia. 98) were rather natives of the East Coast of
Africa than of the East Indies.
The Portuguese,—The first Europeans‘ to visit
South Africa were undoubtedly the Portuguese who, during
the fifteenth century, made repeated efforts to reach India by
doubling the southern extremity of the Continent. Again
and again expeditions were despatched with this object, but
one after another returned to the Tagus, bafiied by fever,
scurvy or headwinds, to report a continuous line of coast in
which no break could be discovered. In those early days
the value and nature of the trade winds were not under-
stood and, as these expeditions always left during the Euro-
pean summer, they were fairly certain, after a six months’
voyage, to fall in with a succession of gales from the south-
east which their scurvy weakened crews and clumsily built


91
vessels could hardly be expected to contend against with
success. -
At last, after seventy years of failure, an expedition left
Lisbon in 1486 which was destined to be more fortunate.
Two vessels of fifty tons each under Bartholomew Diaz suc-
ceeded in reaching Angra Pequeiia where a marble cross
was erected. Leaving the bay they were driven far to the
southward past the Cape, the next land sighted being pro-
bably in the neighbourhood of the Knysna River. From
here they proceeded to Algoa Bay where another cross was
erected. At this point the crews became mutinous and,
after stipulating for another three days’ advance, Diaz sor~
rowfully consented to retrace his course. On his return
voyage he sighted the Cape of Good Hope which he named
“ Cabo Tormentoso” the Cape of Storms.
Strangely enough no immediate advantage was taken of
this discovery, and it was not till 1497 that an attempt was
made to derive commercial benefit from the information
brought home. In that year a fleet of four vessels of 125
tons each under Vaseo da Gama sailed for India and, after
a five months’ voyage, landed at St. Helena Bay. They
then doubled the Cape and discovered the Natal coast on
Christmas Day. On the return from India no landing was
made in South Africa.
In 1503 Antonio Saldanha. also a Portuguese, landed in
Table Bay and was the first European to ascend the Moun-
tain. Seven years later D’Almeida, Viceroy of India, re—
turning home after breaking the naval power of the Otto-
man Empire in the Indian Ocean, was slain with sixty-five
of his men in an insignificant scuffle with the natives on the
grassy slopes at the foot of Table Mountain, an event which
struck such terror into the Portuguese that they seldom
after this attempted a landing on the coast but ran from
St. Helena to Sofala without a break.
Sir Francis Drake,—In 1580 Sir Francis Drake,
returning home from his voyage round the world, doubled
the Cape which he describes as “the most stately thing and
fairest Cape we saw in the whole circumference of the
world”.
First Appearance of the Dutch—In 1595 the


92
first Dutch fleet was seen in these waters on their way to
India. In 1620 the English flag was hoisted on Signal Hill
but no settlement was attempted and nothing of importance
took place until 1648 when a Dutch vessel, the “ Haarlem,”
was driven ashore and wrecked in Table Bay. After a resi-
dence of several months the crew were taken off and gave
such a glowing account of the country and its resources that
the Netherlands East India Company decided to form a
station in the bay where their East Indian fleets might ob-
tain refreshment.
Van Riebeek,—Accordingly in 1651 three vessels
under Jan van Riebeek left Holland and arrived in Table
Bay after an extraordinarily quick passage of 104 days. A
few months later the fleet sailed away leaving rather more
than a hundred souls to form the first European settlement
in South Africa. _
The first commander, Van Riebeek, was an irascible little
man of indomitable perseverance who had served as a ship’s
surgeon in the Dutch East India Company and whose varied
knowledge gained in all parts of the world, united to his
energy of character, rendered him perhaps the fittest man
that could have been chosen for the post.
The first work was the building of the fort of Good Hope
destined to serve as a defence against attack from the sea
on the one hand, and ,the possible treachery of the natives
on the other. As the prime object of the settlement was
the victualling of the Dutch fleet, be next proceeded to lay
out vegetable gardens and obtained a large number of cattle
in barter from the Hottentots. Energetic steps were taken
to exterminate the wild beasts that swarmed in the kloofs
of Table Mountain, and rewards were offered of 25s. for a
lion, 16s. 8d. for a hyena, and 12s. 6d. for a leopard, very
considerable sums when we remember that the Governor’s
salary only amounted to £7 10s. per month.
The vine was introduced from Germany in 1653, whale
and seal fisheries were established, trade in timber com-
menced, a hospital for sailors was erected in 1656, and farm-
ing on a large scale began in the neighbourhood of Ronde-
bosch. Van Riebeek also attempted to extract silver from
the rocks of Table Mountain but needless to say without


93
success. Another of his favourite projects was the intro-
duction of Chinese labour into the settlement, and it is pro-
bably because no Chinese convicts were to be found in the
Batavian prisons at the time that the colony is not to-day
overrun with Celestials.
In 1659 an unsuccessful attempt to seize a vessel in Table‘
Bay led to the prompt expulsion of all English and Scotch
settlers who appear to have been chiefly concerned in the
plot. The following year a French vessel was wrecked in
the bay and the first infusion of French blood into the colony
was efi'ected by thirty-five Huguenots on board joining the
service of the Company. In 1662 Van Riebeek sailed for
Batavia after a sojourn of exactly ten years and was replaced
by Commander Wagenaar,
The breaking out of hostilities between England and
Holland in 1665 occasioned the latter considerable anxiety
with regard to the safety of her dependencies and the first
fort being deemed insufficient to repel a serious attack from
the sea, the_castle, which still forms a prominent feature
of Cape Town, was commenced. The construction however
dragged on slowly and the fortress was not completed for
many years.
Van Quaelberg, Ha1kius.—Wagenaar was suc-
ceeded by Van Quaelberg, Peter Halkius and Van Overbeek,
the last mentioned completing the castle and formally pur-
chasing from the Hottentots the whole of the Cape Penin-
sular including the territory as far as False Bay, the
Hottentot’s Holland Mountains on the east, and Saldanha
Bay on the north-west, a point which the French had re-
cently endeavoured to occupy without success. The price
paid was nominally £1600 but the goods actually handed
over were only worth £9 12s. 9d., a melancholy demonstra-
tion of the lack of Aborigines’ protection societies in those
days. '
Goske 1672_—Owing to the threatening preparations
of Louis XIV., Overbeek was replaced in 1672 by Goske,
the title of Commandant being altered to that of Governor
and the salary raised to £25 per month. At this time the
white population, including the Company’s soldiers and ser-
vants, did not exceed 600.


94
Shortly afterwards the Netherlands were invaded by all
the forces of the “ Grand Monarque ” and his German mer-
cenaries, in co-operation with the English fleet, sold to the
French by Charles II. Although almost entirely conquered
on land, Holland withstood all attacks at sea and an expedi-
tion from Table Bay even captured St. Helena temporarily
from the English. The latter however, under Commodore
Munden, did great damage to the Dutch carrying trade, the
effect of which was felt long after the peace with England in
1674. -
Bax, Simon van der SteL—Goske was succeeded
by Bax who died in 1678, when the title of Governor was
reduced again to that of Commander, the post being occu-
pied by Simon van der Stel who, nevertheless, was destined
to exercise greater influence than any of his predecessors.
Van der Stel immediately set to work to enlarge the
boundaries of the settlement. Stellenbosch (named after
himself and his wife whose maiden name was Bosch) was
founded in 1680 and rapidly rose in importance. He also
greatly enlarged and improved the Company’s garden which
at this time became celebrated throughout Europe and of
which a part still remains in the Government Avenue at
Cape Town. Agriculture was greatly encouraged and in
1684 for the first time the proceeds of the harvest exceeded
the requirements of the settlement. In the same year the
Commander laid out the celebrated farm of Constantia near‘
Wynberg which speedily gained and has ever since retained
a high reputation for the wine produced there.
Expedition Northwards.—The following year
an important expedition under the command of Van der
Stel in person set out to explore the countryr to the north
with the object of discovering the Copper Mountains, the
existence of which had long been known. The party re-
turned after a successful and adventurous journey of five
months, but the natural difficulties were considered so great
that no attempt to work the mines followed, these wonder-
ful mineral deposits remaining in fact unopened until quite
recent years.
Purchase of NataL—At this time the South
African coast was the scene of many shipwrecks some of


95
which are worthy of notice on account of the adventures
and sufferings of the survivors and of their influence in the
development of the Colony. The romantic adventures of
the crews of the “ Stavenisse ” and two other ships, of which
some of the survivors escaped to Cape Town in the “Cen-
taurus,” a vessel built by themselves whilst others were res-
cued from the interior which they had endeavoured to cross
on foot, were ‘the direct cause of the purchase from the
natives of the Bay of Natal. The nominal cost was £1650
and the actual outlay about £50 in goods.
The revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by Louis
XIV. led to the immigration of a large number of Huguenots
who were located principally in Drakenstein and French
Hoek. In the war with France which followed two French
East Indiamen were captured in Table Bay with cargoes
valued at £50,000, and in 1690 Van der Stel was raised to
the dignity of Governor in recognition of his services.
The old hospital being inadequate a new building capable
of receiving 750 patients was commenced in 1694, such ex-
tensive accommodation being rendered necessary by the
scurvy which seldom failed to attack the crews in their long
voyage from Europe. The ravages of the disease at that
_ time appear almost incredible and it is difficult to under-
stand how sailors could be obtained to man the fleets, it
being not at all an uncommon thing for from fifty to eighty
per cent. of the crew to be carried off. In some instances
in fact vessels have been boarded at sea without a living
soul on board. '
W. Adriaan van der SteL—In 1699 Simon van
der Stel resigned and was succeeded by his son Wilhem
Adriaan. The Colony still continued to extend its boundaries
and, in spite of difficulties with the natives, the burghers
pushed farther and farther to the eastward in search of
good grazing land for their cattle. Sheep farming at this
time was unknown and several attempts to introduce it had
failed. The same want of success had attended the intro-
duction of silk-worms.
In 1707 Adriaan van der Stel was recalled owing to
charges of maladministration brought against him by the
burghers. In 1713 a terrible outbreak of smallpox occurred


96
which is calculated to have carried off 25 per cent. of the
white population and, spreading among the Hottentots,
effectually solved the native question of those days by
almost exterminating them. A cattle plague followed in
1714, and in 1719 horsesiekness appeared for the first time
and has never since quitted the country.
Pasques de Chavonnes.—First English
Trading Vessel 1'714,—Pasques de Chavonnes was
appointed Governor in 1714, and in the same year the first
English trading vessel appeared on the coast. Seven years
later attempts were made by the Dutch Company to establish
a station at Delagoa Bay, which had recently been evacuated
by the Portuguese, but the malaria proved so deadly to the
garrisons in charge that, after an unsuccessful expedition to
discover the gold fields known to exist in the neighbourhood,
the settlement was abandoned in 1730.
Pieter de Noordt, J. de la Fontaine, van
Kervel, SwellengrebeL— De Chavonnefl, who died in
1724, was succeeded by Pieter de Noordt, Jan de la Fon-
taine, van Kervel, and in 1737 by Swellengrebel.
From this time the prosperity of the Dutch East India
Company steadily declined, partly owing to abuses in the
home Government, but more directly to the competition of
the English and'French in the Indian markets.
A less important agency, but one which must have
materially affected the prosperity of the Company, was the
constant casting away of richly-laden merchantmen in Table
Bay itself. In 1722 seven Dutch and three English vessels
were wrecked on its shores, occasioning a loss of 600 lives
and goods to the value of over a quarter of a million sterling,
whilst in 1737 a single gale destroyed seven of the Com-
pany’s East Indiamen in the same place. These repeated
disasters led to the commencement of the old mole in
1743, which however was abandoned three years later,
and a small station was erected on the shores of
Simons Bay to be used as a port of call during the winter
months.
Swellengrebel was succeeded by Rijk van Tulbagh dur-
ing whose administration the Colony made rapid advances
in prosperity. In 1756 immediately after an alarming


97
epidemic of smallpox, the white Colonists numbered 5123
with 5787 slaves.
Van Plettenburg,—In 1771 Van Plettenburg be-
came Governor, and affairs speedily fell into confusion.
Corruption and extortion led to open discontent, whilst on
all sides the natives were up in arms, and to make matters
worse news arrived in 1781 of the declaration of war with
England.
War with England, 1780.—The Indiamen in
Table Bay were at once sent to Saldanha and Houts Bay for
protection. An English fleet, with 3000 troops, left Spit-
head under Commodore Johnstone in March to take posses-
sion of the Cape, but was attacked on the way out and
partially disabled by a superior French fleet under Admiral
de Sufi'ren whilst most of the men were on shore fetching
water. The French were eventually driven off, but reached
the Cape and landed two regiments of infantry a month
before the British ships were sighted. Johnstone con-
sidered his force too small to act successfully against the
settlement, and contented himself with seizing the Indiamen
in Saldanha Bay. Peace was concluded in 1783 but the
Dutch mercantile marine was almost annihilated during
the war.
De Graafi—Plettenburg was recalled in 1785 and was
succeeded by Colonel de Graaf who founded Graaf Reinet
and proclaimed the Fish River the western boundary of the
Colony. Complications with the natives speedily followed.
The burghers when victorious were thwarted by the home
Government, abortive attempts were made to buy off the
Kaflirs, the boundary was retroceded and a spirit of revolt
was engendered amongst the Colonists. At the same time
the financial state of the Dutch East India Company became
so involved that it was only saved from bankruptcy by
Government interference, and commissioners were sent out
to investigate the causes of complaints and reduce the ex-
penditure. The result was an increase of taxation, and
consequently of the general dissatisfaction, finally accentu-
ated by another disastrous Kaifir raid which the burghers
were hindered from revenging by the impotent and short—
lived peace of 1793.
8


98
Sluyskens.—War with France—War with
Great Britain.~British Occu ation.—At this
moment France declared war against Ho land and the com-
missioners sailed to Batavia leaving Abraham Sluyskens
in command with an empty treasury, a native war, a
mutinous population and a possible foreign invasion on his
hands. The invasion came on August 7, 1795, but from
an unexpected quarter, and the arrival of the English fleet
was the first intimation of the fact _ that the Batavian
Republic was now allied with France against Great Britain.
Sluyskens was unable to hold out, the Castle capitulated
on the 16th September, and the Colony was handed over to
the British who held it for seven years until the peace of
Amiens in 1802 again restored it to Holland.
The condition of the Colony under English rule appears
to have vastly improved; all restrictions and monopolies
were taken off trade, torture was abolished and it is esti-
mated that the Government spent at least one and a half
millions of money in the country which had formerly been
011 the verge of ruin.
Re-occupation by the British 1806.—In 1806
war again broke out between Holland and Great Britain and
a British force of six regiments was landed on the Blaauwberg
beach. The following morning the Dutch army of 5000
men marched from Cape Town but were defeated. Com-
mander Jaansens capitulated two days later, and from that
day the Colony has remained in the hands of the British.
Possession was ‘formally ratified in 1815 on payment to
Holland of £6,000,000 sterling, the Colonies of Demerara,
Essequibo and ~Berbice being included in the sale.
The white population numbered at this time 26,700,
holding 29,300 slaves; the suppression of the slave trade
was one of the first actions of Earl Caledon, the Governor,
who also established a system of post riders between the
various districts and instituted circuit courts.
First Kaffir War 1811,—The first serious Kaflir war
occurred under his successor, Sir Francis Cradock, in 1811,
when the Kafl'irs entered the neutral territory between the
Fish and Sundays Rivers in force. rThe murder of Landrost
Stockenstroom which followed, led to terrible retaliation on


99
the part of the Colonists. The Kaffirs were finally driven
back at all points and the headquarters of the troops engaged
on frontier service were fixed at a central position which has
since become Grahamstown.
The most important act of Sir Francis Cradock’s adminis-
tration was the proclamation of 1812 by which farmers
were allowed to convert their lands, hitherto held on yearly
lease from the Government, into perpetual quit-rent pro-
perties thus becoming independent yeomen.
Boer Rebellion 1815,—Sir F. Cradock was succeeded
‘by Lord Charles Somerset. The following year the Boer
rebellion of 1815 broke out, occasioned principally by the
discontent with which many of the Colonists regarded the
liberal views of the Government respecting native policy.
The rising was soon after put down by the military, aided by
a party of loyal Boers, and five of the ringleaders were hung.
Second Kaflir War 1819.-— In 1817 the new policy
was inaugurated of endeavouring to control the natives by
means of a native chief, duly recognised by the Government
as paramount, and held responsible for the good conduct of
his subjects. Other chiefs however failed to pay him due
obedience, and, after desultory fighting, a serious rising took
place under the celebrated Makana.
This man, better known as f‘ Linksh ” or Left-handed, who
claimed to be in communication with the spirit world, formed
the design of amalgamating under one head the scattered
clans into which his countrymen were divided ,- the im-
mense influence he possessed over the superstitious natives
would probably have enabled him to carry his project into
execution, had he been opposed by any other than Euro-
pean troops. In the early part of 1819 he led a force of
10,000 blacks across the Fish River and fell suddenly on
Grahamstown which was successfully defended by Col. Wilt-
shire and 320 men. The war closed with the voluntary
surrender of Linksh who was sent to Robben Island, and
was drowned two years later in attempting to escape. For
many years afterwards his followers looked for the reap-
pearance of the prophet, believing that he would yet lead
them on to victory. The result of the war was the extension
of the Colonial boundary to the river Keiskamma.


100
The Albany Settlers_—The most important event
during Lord Somerset’s administration was the immigration
of the Albany settlers of 1820 to the number of almost
5000 ; each family was allowed 100 acres of ground and
was bound to employ none but free labour.
Lord Somerset was succeeded in 1826 by Major-General
Bourke.
Native Ma, [13, Charta,—In 1829 the ordinance
which has been ca led the Magna Charta of the natives was
enacted by which it is declared that “all Hottentots or other
free persons of colour lawfully residing within the Colony'
are in the most full and ample manner entitled to all and
every right, benefit and privilege to which any other
British subjects are entitled”.
Slave Emancipation—Early in 1834 Sir Ben-
ja'min Durban was appointed Governor, his first duty
being to give effect to the Act for the Emancipation of
Slaves which had been passed the previous year. The
number of slaves in the Colony at this time was 35,7 00
valued at £3,000,000 stg. but only £1,200,000 was granted
in compensation. Such a radical measure could hardly
have been carried out without creating great discontent,
but the Government of the day seems to have taken little
or no precaution to ensure the farmers receiving even the
mutilated justice possible under the circumstances, and
much of the money, inadequate as it was, found its way
into the hands of sharpers. So little was the nature of the
transaction understood by many of the Boers that they
sold their claims to their better informed neighbours for a
fraction of their value, while others of sturdier character
refused to accept the partial compensation for what they
regarded as a wholesale robbery.
The feeling against the Government became so strong that
10,000 Boers are estimated to have crossed the Orange
River in order to be beyond the reach of British rule. 1t is ‘
‘perhaps to this measure and to the clumsy injustice with
which it was carried out, rather than to any sentiments of
race hatred, that are due the many years of ill-feeling
between Dutch and English in South Africa, now happily
dying out.


101
Third Kaflir War, 1835,—In 1835 another serious
Kaflir inroad occurred, when 12,000 savages under Hintsa
suddenly crossed the Fish River, burning and murdering in
all directions. “ In one week forty farmers were murdered,
450 farm houses burnt and 4000 horses, 100,000 head of
cattle and 150,000 sheep carried off.” Colonel Harry
Smith in command of the forces, who was then at Cape
Town, started immediately for the front and reached
Grahamstown on the 6th January having ridden the dis-
tance of over 600 miles in 6 days. Severe fighting followed
and after several months the Kaffirs were subdued. The
Colonial boundary was then advanced to the Kei River. A
portion of the acquired territory was peopled by the
friendly tribe of Fingoes. The home authorities unfor-
tunately refused to ratify this arrangement and it was not
only reversed in spite of the protests of the Colony but the
boundary was retrograded to the Fish River, thus abandoning
the territory west of the Keiskamma which had formed
part of the Colony since 1819.
First Parliament, 1854.—In 1854 the first
Cape Parliament consisting of two elective chambers met
at Cape Town; the same year Sir George Gray was ap-
pointed Governor.
At this time the curious cattle-killing mania was raging
among the Kaflirs; one of their seers, Umhlagaza, who
claimed to be in communication with the ancient chiefs,
instructed his followers to destroy all their cattle and corn
and to refrain from tilling the soil, promising them as a
reward for their obedience that the departed heroes should
return and that the white settlers should be swept into the sea.
Starvation soon set in and in spite of the relief afforded by
the Government it is estimated that ~?5,000 natives must
have perished from hunger, the ground thus vacated being
filled up principally by members of the German legion who
had been disbanded at the close of the Crimean war and
were allotted small farms on a military tenure.
First Railway,—In 1857 the construction of the
first railway to Wellington was authorised and large outlays
were made on other public works.
Sir Philip Wodehouse succeeded to the Governorship in


102
1862. Three years later British Kafi'raria was incorporated
into the Colony and in 1868 Basutoland was proclaimed
British territory, the last action being much criticised at
the time. Responsible Government was inaugurated in
1872.
Discovery of Diamonds, 1867.—Great depres-
sion then existed throughout the Colony,- droughts had
killed off a large proportion of the cattle and sheep and Mr.
Gladstonc’s scale of alcoholic duty deprived the Colonists
of their home market, but fortunately, when prospects
appeared most gloomy, the discovery of diamonds
on the Vaal River brought about a sudden increase of
prosperity.
In 1877 the Transvaal was annexed and the Galeka'
Kaflir war broke out after a peace of 20 years, speedily
followed by the Basuto and Zulu wars. In 1880 the Trans-
vaal Boers rose against the British Government ; the hasty
termination of this war is too notorious to be easily for-
gotten (see page 108).
In 1883 Basutoland was disannexed and placed under a
resident Commissioner. In the same year the German
Government established a protectorate over the territories
to the north of the Orange River, Walfisch Bay alone
remaining in the hands of the English. Steps were
immediately taken to secure the country lying between
the Colony and Natal which was finally annexed in
1885.
The most important event of late years has been the
discoveries of the Transvaal Goldfields in 1886 and 1887
with the consequent enormous increase of wealth and
population which has accrued to that State, whilst
a new page of South African history is now opening in the
development of the northern territories under the Chartered
Company.
HISTORY OF NAT AL.
The history of the ‘European settlement in Natal com-
mences only at the close of the first quarter of the present
century. Prior to 1823 only a few vessels had touched on


103
the coast for wood and water, whilst occasionally the experi-
ences of a shipwrecked crew added something to the know-
ledge of the country.
Farewell’s Expedition, 1823. — In 1823
Lieutenant Farewell landed in the bay on an exploring
expedition and was so pleased with the appearance of
the country that he returned to Cape Town with the
object of obtaining the Government sanction to the forma-
tion of a trading-station. In this he was unsuccessful,
but the glowing description he gave induced several adven—
turous individuals to join him, and as a preliminary step
Mr. Fynn was sent overland to obtain a grant of territory
from the paramount chief, the terrible Chaka. A few
years before the arrival of the English the country had been
thickly populated by a large number of independent tribes
who lived in case and plenty with nothing but an occasional
scuffle to disturb their peaceful existence. The sudden in-
road of Chaka at the head of his Zulu hordes speedily
brought about a change. The discipline which this
Napoleon of South Africa had introduced into his army
rendered him invincible and his exterminating policy, which
spared neither man, woman nor child, speedily swept away
the inhabitants. It is estimated that over 1,000,000 people
were slain during the successive raids of the Zulus west of
the Tugela. When the English arrived at the bay only a
few hundred miserable natives, living on roots and some-
times on one another, remained to drag out a wretched
existence among the kloofs and glens of the mountains.
English Settlement at Durban—By means
of presents permission to settle at the bay was obtained
from Chaka and three stations were opened, one where the
Durban market-place is now situated, one under the Bluff,
and one at the mouth of the Umbilo River.
Dingaan_-Chaka was assassinated in 1828 by his
brother Dingaan who reigned in his stead. In the mean-
time many of the remnants of the tribes destroyed by
Chaka had assembled for protection round the white settle-
ments, and Dingaan, who regarded the English with no very
friendly eye, ordered Fynn and Cane to come to his kraal.
They wisely declined and, on a force being sent to fetch


104
them, some fighting ensued. The English, with their
native allies, retired beyond the Umzimkulu River until
the difiiculty was finally arranged in 1831, Fynn being
recognised as the “Great Chief of the Natal Kaffirs ”.
Appearance of the Trek Boers. A new
set of actors now appeared on the scene, namely the
Colonial Boers, who, during their wanderings in the Free
State, had found a practicable pass through the Drakens-
berg and, attracted by the verdant plains beneath, had
descended in large numbers into what is now the Colony
of Natal, gradually pushing on towards the sea. Itctief,
their leader, finding Dingaan the paramount chief, ap-
plied to him for a grant of territory which was promised
on condition that they should recover for him some stolen
cattle from a neighbouring chief. This service being duly
rendered, Retief with one hundred men returned to the
King’s kraal with the spoil, a document of the formal cession
of territory was drawn up and general feasting ensued.
Massacre of the B061‘S.—At the close of the festi-
vities, as the Boers were seated on the ground drinking Kafiir
beer, the treacherous natives suddenly attacked them .and,
after a desperate struggle, killed them to a man. At the
same time a large force of Zulus was sent across the Tugela
with instructions to slay every white man, woman and
child to be found in Natal. Many of the Boers were sur-
prised in small parties and massacred, but the alarm being
given, laagers were formed and the Zulus repulsed with
heavy loss, but not before 600 victims had been added to
Retief’s party.
Hostile Expedition from Durban out to
Pieces_—The Boers, having received reinforcements from
beyond the mountains, decided on taking the offensive and
the English settlers at the bay consented to co-operate by
leading a force of 1000 natives across the Tugela, near its
mouth. This party, under command of Biggar, unfortunately
marched into an ambush and were cut to pieces, both
Biggar and Cane falling in the fight and only one white man
escaping. The Dutch under Uys also crossed the Tugela'
and fell into a similar trap but succeeded in fighting their
way through with heavy loss, both Uys and his son being


105
among the slain. Dingaan took advantage of his success to
raid the English settlements, but fortunately a vessel lying
off the shore saved the inhabitants from otherwise inevitable
massacre. V
Defeat 0f DingaaiL—In the winter of 1838 Pre-
torius with 460 mounted Boers boldly advanced to the
King’s kraal, and, on the banks of the Umhlatoozi River
encountered the Zulu army 12,000 strong, an obstinate
engagement terminating in the total defeat of the Zulus
who left 3000 dead on the field. This gallant action is
still annually celebrated as a public holiday in the Dutch
Republic.
Umpanda..—The Zulu power was further weakened
by a split in the camp; a younger brother of Dingaan
named Umpanda, having secured a considerable following,
applied to the English at the bay for help; accordingly a
mixed body of Dutch and English numbering about four
hundred under command of Pretorius marched to his assis-
tance, and, in conjunction with 4000 of Umpanda’s warriors,
signally defeated Dingaan who was shortly after assassinated.
Umpanda was declared chief by Pretorius in 1840, the
whites however reserving to themselves the territory be-
tween the Black Umvolozi and the St. John’s River and
charging Umpanda a fee of 36,000 oxen for their services.
Republic of Natalia—In 1840 the flag of the
Dutch Republic of “ Natalia ” was hoisted on the shores of
the bay, but the British Government, after some hesitation,
refused to acknowledge the independence of the new State
and marched 200 men into the country, who, taking up
their position at the bay hauled down the colours of the
Republic. The Boers at once commenced hostilities and
Captain Smith marched his small force out with the view of
driving his opponents from Congella. In the action which
ensued the Boers, in superior numbers and concealed by the
thick vegetation, speedily drove back the British with
heavy loss, and proceeded to invest the camp in form with
a view of starving out the garrison. Fortunately however
one of the settlers, Mr. King, succeeded in passing the lines,
and reached Grahamstown, from whence news of the
urgent need of Captain Smith’s party was forwarded to the


106
Colony. A few days later reinforcements reached the bay
and the Boers retired, the Republican flag once more being
hauled down.
Natal Proclaimed British—The Dutch gave in
their final submission nine days after the landing of troops
and on August 8, 1843, Natal was finally proclaimed a
British Colony.
The discontent of the Dutch settlers terminated in most
of them trekking out of the country, and the appearance of
more English soon placed the remainder in a minority.
Pietermaritzburg was created a Bishop’s See in 1853, and the
native population, which had enormously increased by im-
migration, was located in different sections under their own
chiefs. In 1856 an elective legislative assembly was created
and this Colony was altogether separated from the Cape.
In the meantime the Zulus had lived peaceably within
their territory under Umpanda, who was precluded from
taking any very active part in native politics by an extreme
development of adipose matter. So unwieldy did he
become that “he had to be inducted into his Waggon,
whenever he had occasion to change his residence, by
taking 011' the front wheels and sliding the royal body in
and by then lifting the Waggon and the body together for
the readjustment of the wheels”.
Cetewayq—His eldest son, the well-known Cetewayo,
took advantage of the discontent of the younger warriors
to gather round him a considerable following, eager to
emulate the glories of Chaka by eating up their neighbours.
A younger son, Umbulazi, having also formed a faction, a
battle ensued in which Cetewayo was completely victorious
and Umbulazi, with five of his brothers, was slain. A
general assembly followed in 1857 at the King’s kraal
where Umpanda was confirmed as the head of the Govern-
ment “to think,” and Cetewayo was recognised as “the
feet” to act in all matters requiring energetic movement.
Umpanda died in 1872, and Cetewayo was finally installed
by Mr. Shepstone, who used his influence to abolish the
wholesale slaughter which had always previously taken place
on the accession of a new King.
In the meantime a rebellion under Langalibalele broke out


108
Zululand in five columns. Eleven days later occurred the
disaster of Isandhlwana in which the third column was cut
to pieces, Lord Chelmsford retreating immediately with the
remainder into Natal. The successful defence of Rorke’s
Drift, which followed the battle, is one of the few episodes of
the war which can be looked back on with satisfaction.
Reinforcements speedily arrived and, at the end of April,
the total effective strength of the army was 22,500 men,
of whom 15,600 were British; the Zulu armies at this time
probably not much exceeding 30,000, yet it was not until
July that the final battle of Ulundi was fought.
The death of the Prince Imperial occurred on
May 1st.
Cetewayo was captured soon after and exiled ; but he was
eventually brought back in the hope that his presence
would put a stop to the anarchy resulting from the weak
opportunist policy of the home Government, in their endea-
vours to tranquillise the country after the war. Cetewayo
died soon after and the only result of all the expenditure of
British blood and money, and of the slaughter of so many of
the natives, was to enable a party of Transvaal freebooters
to form the “ New Republic,” by grabbing a large portion of
the undefended fertile uplands.
Transvaal Wan—Prior to these events other dis-
asters had occurred. The action of the Government in the
Transvaal had still further increased the discontent felt by a
large section of the Boers at their loss of political inde-
pendence. Sir Garnet Wolseley had visited the country, and
publicly declared “that so long as the sun shone” the Trans-
vaal would remain under the British flag—and, to .the
appeal for political freedom made by the Boer delegates,
Mr. Gladstone returned a decided “ N o ”.
War broke out at the close of 1880 ;~the English popula-
tion, which had flocked into the country depending on the
promises of the Government, were beleaguered in the different
towns and a small force under Colonel Anstruther was
almost annihilated at Bronkhorst Spruit.
It was however onColonial territory that our most humiliat-
ing defeats were experienced. General Colley, then Governor
of Natal and Commander-in-chief of the forces, marched to


109
the relief of the beleaguered towns with a small army of
1000 men. His progress was arrested by a Boer commando
under Joubert, and, in attempting to force the passage of
Laing’s Nek, Colley was driven back to his camp on
Mount Prospect with heavy loss, whilst a few days later
another crushing reverse was experienced on the Ingogo'
heights.
After a fortnight’s delay, during which reinforcements
arrived, Colley with 600 men executed that amazing night
ascent of Majuba Hill ; his position was attacked at dawn
by a small party of Boers and nearly half the British force,
which ran short of ammunition, was killed or wounded in the
panic which ensued. Colley, whatever his capabilities as a
general may have been, met his death like a soldier whilst
endeavouring to bring his men to the charge. Only one of the
Boers was killed, their loss in the three engagements barely
exceeding a dozen men. We can well understand that their
predikant in his thanksgiving sermon should take for his
text, “ The sword of the Lord and of Gideon”.
This action practically closed the war as the reinforce-
ments which arrived were never used. The statesman who
had turned a deaf ear to the pleadings of the Boer represen-
tatives had been convinced by the persuasive ring of their
rifles ; and all Europe wondered at that gentle spirit, which,
overlooking the ruin his promises had brought upon his
trusting fellow countrymen, magnanimously gave back their
independence to men, who, so . far from appreciating his
unexampled generosity, have always contended that they-
wrested back their political liberty m,’ et urmz's, and whose
actions ever since have been actuated by anything but
gratitude for favours received.
Annexation of Zululand—Affairs in Zululand
still continued in an unsatisfactory state, and the country
was annexed in 1887, a step which failed however to put an
end to the confusion, for the following year an insurrection
under Dinizulu against British authority took place which
was however speedily quelled.
Of late years Natal has profited largely by the increased
trade caused by the gold discoveries in the Transvaal, and the
railway has now been pushed to the extreme northern border


110
of the Colony. The conservative Dutch element has far
less power here than in Cape Colony and the progress of the
country has consequently been much more rapid.
For further particulars of the histories of the Dutch
Republics see pages 183, 213, 226.
For Basutoland see end of Route XIV.
CAPE TOWN.
Population 51,083, of whom 25,253 are of European
extraction; distance by sea from Plymouth, 5951 miles;
from St. Helena, 1695 miles.
Hotels.— Inside the town—The Royal, Plein Street; —
Poole’s, near Cathedral ;——St. George’s, opposite Post
Office (all about 10s. 6d.) ;—-Claridge’s, top of Plein
Street ;—Commercial, Grave Street ;—Masonic, facing Parade
Ground (about 8s. 6d.) ;-—Albion, Strand Street (7s. 6d.) ;-—
Fountain ;—Central.
Above the town—The International, 12s. 6d.
(For Suburbs such as Sea Point, Wynberg, Newlands,
&c., see under respective headings.)
Boarding HOuSe$.—Madeira Ilouse, 7s. 6d. ;—Somer-
set House and many others.
A large hotel is to be constructed at the bottom of
Adderley Street.
Restaurants—The Theatre ;—The St. George’s ;—The
Standard ;—The Gaiety.
Newspapers—Cape Times and Cape Argus both daily
and weekly ; Wynberg Times 3 (there are also weekly home
editions of the Times, Argus and South African Empire).
For Advertisements relating to Cape Town see pages 0,
5, 8, 14 to 23, 57, 58, 65, 85.
Trams run every half hour from Long Street to the suburbs of
Green Point and Sea Point, at distance of about three miles. Fares
half way, 3d. ; to Sea Point, 6d. Also from Long Street, every half
hour to the upper part of the town, passing the higher end of the
Government Avenue, fare 3d. Another line runs from the Standard
Bank through Woodstock to Salt River, 2 miles, starting every
quarter of an hour, fares 3d. and 6d.
Gabs_—By time 2s. 6d. the first hour and 2s. for every additional
hour, without reference to the number of persons conveyed. En- .


111
gagement by time must be expressed when hiring, otherwise the
hirer is liable to be charged by distance.
Charges by distance are: For two people, 6d. per half mile; 1s.
per mile and beyond at the rate of ls. per mile. For a detention or
several detentions amounting to fifteen minutes 9d. extra may be
charged. When more than two passengers are conveyed each addi-
tional passenger is charged at the rate of 6d. per mile. Two chil-
dren under ten are reckoned as one adult. Each passenger is allowed
20 lbs. of luggage free. .
Omnibuses run from the Standard Bank to the top of Kloof
Street and from the Standard Bank to the Docks and Mouille Point,
fares 3d. and 6d.
Railway to Sep Point—This is little more than a steam
tramway running rom the Central Jetty to Sea Point with
stoppages in between, fares 3d. and 6d. first class. Trains at half-
hourly interviews during the day.
Coolie Porter Hire.—For carrying a letter or parcel not exceed-
ing 25 lbs. ; within half a mile, 3d. Parcels of 25 lbs. to 75 lbs., 6d.
per half mile and longer distances in proportion. When engaged
by time 6d. per hour is charged.
Post Restante—is situated in St. George’s Street and is open
from 8 A. M. till 5 RM. except on Saturdays when it closes at 4 P.M.
Telegraph Ofices—in the Railway Station and in Mill Street.
The European mail closes on Wednesdays at 2 P.M. Late fees
are—till 2'15, 3d. ; till 2'30, 6d. ; till 330, Is. Late letters must be
taken to the General Post Office or to the office on the West Quay.
Cape Town, the metropolis of South Africa, was until recently the
largest and most interesting town either in the Colony or the Dutch
Republics, and although its claims to antiquity are trifling compared
to those of European cities, they are considerable in a land which a
century back was almost unknown to Europeans. It was here that
nearly two hundred and fifty years ago, civilisation drove in the thin
end of the wedge which was destined many years later to open the
country to European immigration and development ; and, with the
exception of one little village, it is the only spot where the past
generations, to whom South Africa owes so much, have left any
trace of their presence. The history of Cape Town up to the
commencement of the present century identifies itself with the
history of the European settlement in South Africa and will be
found detailed elsewhere.
The advantages of Table Bay appear to have been recognised by
the early Portuguese navigators, but the murder of the Indian
Viceroy D'Almeida, with many of his men, on its shores seems to
have given them a distaste for the locality, perhaps accounting for
its happy exemption from their “ sphere of influence ” at the present
day. For nearly a century after the Dutch settlement no steps


112

were taken to guard the vessels, lying at anchor, from the terrible
_' effects of the northern and north-westerly gales, and many a. gallant
East Indiamen, driven aground in the shallow water to the south-
east of the bay, lies “ docked in sand ”. Efforts have been made to
recover the treasure sunk in many of these vessels but with little
success, for the rapidly drifting sand has long since hidden the
wrecks from view.
The Breakwater.——In 1743 steps were taken to protect the bay
by the construction of a mole from the spot on which the Mouille
Point light house now stands; the remains may still be seen at
low water.
Another century elapsed before any further steps were taken, an
elaborate scheme being submitted in 1856 which fell through, but
four years later Sir John Coode's design for a,‘ breakwater forming
an outer basin with inner dock accommodation, to cost £399,000,
was accepted by the Colonial Government, the first truck load being
tipped by Prince Alfred on August 17, 1860; the material used on
the breakwater has been excavated from the site of the Inner Basin.
In 1868 the breakwater had been completed to a length of 1870
feet and in 1870 Prince Alfred performed the opening ceremony,
the accommodation then consisting of the Alfred Basin with an
area of eight and a half acres and an outer basin protected by a
jetty running at right angles with the breakwater. In 1882 a fine
graving-dock was added. Many minor improvements have since
been made and the breakwater has attained a length of nearly 4000
feet. Large excavations are at present in progress for affording
still greater dock accommodation in the rear of the present Alfred
Basin. The total expenditure to the present day amounts to about
one and a half millions, of which however nearly half a million
has been derived from revenue.
At the point where the breakwater abuts on the land is situated
the convict station with accommodation for one thousand men,
principally employed in the dock works and road-making in
the neighbourhood of Cape Town. A large number of the criminal
contingent is furnished by Kimberley which, from the great
profits to be gained from illicit diamond-dealing, has always been
a hot-bed of crime.
Public Buildlngs.—Proceeding towards the town the
dock-gates are passed and in the adjoining building passen-
gers’ luggage is examined. The railway which connects
the docks with the main line runs along one side of the
road which is also crossed by the Sea Point local line.
The Dock Road leads into the lower end of Adderley
Street in which many of the principal buildings are
situated. This street is the finest in Cape Town and was
formerly known as the “Heerengracht” or Gentleman’s
Walk. At that time it was planted with pine-trees and


113

M ' " ,A," -n

formed the fashionable promenade of the city. The lower
end abuts on the Central Jetty where the fishing-boats
discharge their cargo and where rowing and sailing-boats
may be hired. The jetty is also the landing-place of the
small steamers which run to Robben Island and Houts Bay.
A magnificent view'of Table Bay on the one side and the
mountain on the other is obtainable from here.
Ascending, the Fish Market is passed on the right-hand
side, a ramshackle building which will shortly be removed,
but which, despite its evil smell, is not unworthy of a visit
from those desirous of seeing something of the piscatory
productions of the bay.
On the left-hand side of the street is the handsome
Railway Terminus erected in 1878 with a frontage
of 150 feet. On the left-hand side is a good restaurant.
The Telegraph Ofiice, also in this building, faces the
new Post Oflice which is being built on the site formerly
occupied by the Commercial Exchange.
At the back of the building is the Parade Ground
laid out in 1699, nearly a quarter of a mile long, utilised
on Saturday mornings by the auctioneers of the town and
the scene of the military review which takes place on the
Queen’s Birthday. At the further end of the ground is the
Castle (see p. 118).
The next building above the new Post Office is the
head office of the Standard Bank of South Africa, built in
1883 at a cost of £32,000. A fine pile of buildings on the
right-hand side with a handsome clock-tower eighty-five
feet high contains the .City Club.
On the left-hand side is the Dutch Reformed
Church, the earliest edifice for public worship erected
in South Africa.
The first structure was commenced in 1699, the clock tower con-
taining the clock which was sent from Holland in 1727 being all
that remains of the old church. The present building can seat
3000 persons, the most noticeable feature of the construction being
the large span of the roof. Beneath the floor of the church are the
remains of eight of the old Dutch Governors, a. fact that has earned
for it the name of the Westminster Abbey of South Africa.
At the back of the Church is the Kerk-plein or
Church-square in which is situated the Civil Service
9


114
Club. At the top of the street, also on the left hand side,
are the Supreme Court Buildings of which the large
hall was opened in 1815. Adderley Street ends at the foot
of the Government Avenue which once formed part of
the celebrated Gardens laid out by Governor van der Stel.
This avenue is three quarters of a mile long and well shaded
with oak trees, some of which are 200 years old ,' the high
winds and proximity to the sea however have prevented
them from rivalling the famous oaks of Stellenbosch,
planted about the same time.
On the left hand side, immediately on entering the avenue,
are the Houses of Parliament, completed in 1886 at
a cost of £220,000, one of the handsomest buildings in
South Africa, with a frontage of 264 ft., the base being of
Paarl granite and the remainder of red brick.
The chambers of the Legislative Council and Legislative Assembly
are both provided with galleries for the accommodation of the
public. A fine library has been added for the use of the members.
The building can be inspected by strangers on obtaining an order
from the Sergeant at Arms or by applying to any of the members in
town.
The surrounding gardens are tastefully laid out and contain a.
marble statue of the Queen, ten and a. half feet high, erected in
commemoration of the Jubilee.
On the, right hand side of the entrance to the Avenue are
St. George’s Grammar School and the English Cathedral,
and a few yards higher up the Public Library and
Museum. The principal facade in Grecian style overlooks
the Botanical Gardens. A new Museum is being erected
up the Avenue near the South African College, upon the
completion of which the whole of the present building will
be taken over by the library.
The present building was opened by Prince Alfred in 1860, but
the Library existed as far back as 1822. It contains about 50,000
volumes including the Grey and Dessinian collections. The latter,
bequeathed to the Colony in 1761 by Joachim Nicholas Dessin,
consists of about 4500 vols; and that presented by Sir George
Gray, of about 5000 forms by far the most valuable portion of the
Library.
Of the 130 manuscripts some are of the 10th century and many
are fine examples of the art of illumination, particularly a missal
which belonged to Margaret de Valois. There is also one of the
earliest known copies of the “Roman de la Rose”. Among the


115
early English printed books are works from Oaxton’s printing press,
the first and second editions of Shakespeare's plays, etc. The
collection of works on the Native Languages of Africa, Polynesia and
New Zealand is noticeable. Two old maps, one of 1489 and another
of 1546, both show the Central African Lakes (fascimile copies).
Facing the principal entrance of the Library are three oil paint-
ings. The centre one is the portrait of Prince Alfred; that to the
right represents the landing of Van Riebeek in Table Bay and that
to the left the landing of Bartholemew Diaz in Algoa Bay.
The Library is open free from 9 A.M. to 9 P.M. and is lighted
by electricity. Terms of subscription for visitors and others may
be obtained on application.
The Museum, contained in the right wing of the building, suffers
somewhat from overcrowding and attempts have been made to
provide the collections with more suitable quarters. The specimens
of South African antelopes, some of which are in the central
hall, are particularly interesting. There are 4000 specimens of
birds mostly on the ground floor but the South African species are
represented in the first gallery.
Reptiles are represented by 360 examples but the ophidian
specimens are in general poorly preserved, in fact the Grahamstown
Museum is the only one in South Africa containing really well
prepared specimens of native snakes. Over 20,000 examples of
Insects are exhibited mostly in cabinets which may be inspected on
application to the custodian.
Among the geological examples the rough diamonds, some of
which are in the matrix are most noteworthy. The same case also
contains specimens of South African gold nuggets and quartz.
The collection was more perfect before the robbery of 1891.
Near the entrance on the right hand side is a high-backed old-
fashioned chair, in which tradition states that the Governor de
Noordt was found dead a few minutes after a soldier, about to be
hung by his orders, had summoned him to bear him company before
the throne of the Supreme Judge. The museum is open free on
Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 10 to 4 in winter
and from 10 to 5 in summer, and on Saturdays from ‘10 to 1.
The library receives an annual Government Grant of £600, and
the museum one of £1000.
Adjoining the Houses of Parliament, on the left-hand side
of the Avenue, is the Garden of Government House,
the town residence of the High Commissioner of South
Africa. The oldest parts of the building date from
about 1740, but constant additions have been made since
without any regard to architecture or beauty, and the
resulting mass of bricks and plaster is only redeemed from
sheer unsightliness by the magnificent foliage surrounding


116
it. The main entrance is on the other side of the building
in Grave Street.
Opposite the grounds of Government House are the
Botanical Gardens, covering 14 acres. Although
comparatively small, the taste with which they are laid out,
the variety of the semi-tropical foliage and the magnificent
view of Table Mountain and the adjacent peaks, render
them one of the greatest attractions of Cape Town.
Over 8000 varieties of trees and plants from all parts of the world
are collected here, and the large conservatory at the upper end of
the grounds contains many fine orchids and palms. The large
eucalyptus or gum-tree, near the entrance, is the first planted in
South Africa, and would undoubtedly have attained greater height
but for the destructive violence of the south-easters. The institu-
tion, however, is something more than a pleasure garden, as, in the
nursery attached, experiments are being continually carried on with
vegetable productions from other parts of the World to test their
suitability to the South African climate. The sale of seeds and
seedlings of all kinds renders the gardens almost self-supporting, the
Government grant being only £500 per annum. In front of the Public
Library is a statue of Sir George‘Grey, Governor from 1854 to 1861.
During the early years of the British occupation a lion-house formed
one of the attractions of the Gardens, but these animals and their
domicile have long since disappeared.
The Gardens are open every week-day from 7 am. to sunset. On
Sundays they are only open in the afternoon
Attached to the institution is a large Herbal-111m, the nucleus of
which was purchased by Government about twenty-five years ago.
It is at present housed above the Public Library, awaiting the more
commodious quarters which it is proposed to erect in the Gardens.
Application for Admission must be made to the Curator of the
Gardens.
Beyond the Government grounds the avenue widens out.
On the left is the Jewish Synagogue, built in 1862 at
a cost of £2400. On the opposite side are the buildings
and playing-grounds of the South African College.
The tram-line passes the upper end of the avenue, trams
running every half hour to Long Street. The principal
Malay Mosque is passed on the way, its minarets and
cupola rendering it a conspicuous object. Adjoining the
Long Street Tram Station is the Young Men’s Christian
Association Hall, where popular lectures are delivered
once or twice in the week.


117
The same tram-line runs from the top of the avenue to
the Gardens, some distance upon the left. \
Between Long Street and Adderley Street is Green-
market Square, the scene of many important meetings
in the days of Dutch rule. The Town House, on the
southern side of the square, was founded in 1755 and is only
interesting as representing the architectural style of that
period. '
Its principal feature is the heavy arched stoep, forming a balcony
from which Government proclamations were formerly delivered to
the populace. The small paned windows add to its quaint appear-
ance ; the whole is surmounted by a little domed tower or lantern,
which formerly contained a. gong, used to summon the bnrghers to
the spot. The Council Chamber on the upper floor is scarcely worth
a visit.
The Wesleyan Methodist Church on the same
side of the square, although smaller than the Cathedral, is
architecturally handsomer. It was erected in 1879 at a
cost of £15,000 and can seat 1000 persons. The spire, 140
ft., is the highest in Cape Town.
Between Greenmarket Square and Adderley Street and
parallel with the latter is St. George’s Street, known
in the early days of Cape Town as Berg Street. Governor
van der Graaf changed the name to Venus Street, and
caused a signboard, representing the frail goddess, to be
nailed above the clergyman’s door in return for a compari-
son which that gentleman had drawn between Jezebel and
the Governor’s wife.
At the top of the street is the English Cathedral,
the first English Church in South Africa, dedicated to St.
George, of which the foundation stone was laid in 1830. It
is similar in design to St. Pancras Church in London and
was built when English architecture was at its lowest ebb.
In 1864 the Ecclesiastical Court, before which Bishop Colcnso of
Natal was summoned to answer the charges brought against him,
' sat in the Cathedral.
Descending St. Georges Street, on the left hand side are
the offices of the Argus and Times newspapers and the
Central POSt Office, the last having become somewhat


118
inadequate to the requirements of business, is being replaced
by a more commodious building in the neighbourhood of the
railway station.
Turning to the right down Darling Street, which leads
into Adderley Street, and crossing the Parade Ground, the
entrance to the Castle is reached, at present the head-
quarters of the Commander of the forces.
The first stone was laid in 1666 but the construction occupied
many years, and appears to have severely taxed the resources of
the Government; the work dragging on slowly, occasionally spurred
into activity by the news of European war and consequent fear of
invasion, until 1677 when Governor Bax adopted a novel form of
corvée. Proceeding with his wife to the trenches he carried out
twelve baskets full of earth and his lady six, giving the burghers to
understand that every one, male and female, who thenceforth
passed the castle would have to follow their example. The building
accordingly appears to have been completed three years later.
Comtemporary with Uncle Toby and the days of “ravelins,
bastions, curtains, hornworks and demilunes,” the Castle has long
ceased to be of any importance as a work of defence, and it is
doubtful whether it could ever have been very formidable, for, even
with the primitive artillery of the time, it was commanded by higher
ground to the south-east. An unfortunate artilleryman however,
who appears to have expressed his opinion on this subject, was
promptly incarcerated on a charge of sedition and privy conspiracy ;
a gun was taken up to the spot indicated, but, the ball falling short,
the exponent of free speech was subsequently released, the careful
Company however mulcting him for the cost of the experiment.
Most of the building material, even bricks and tiles, was brought
from Holland which must have added largely to the cost of the
construction. The railway passes at the foot of the walls and affords
a good view of the old style of fortifications. The last prisoner of
importance confined here was Cetewayo.
The Vegetable and Fruit Market is situated in
Caledon Square to the right of the Parade Ground. The
new Volunteer Drill Hall close by is occasionally used
for dances, the floor space being 150 ft. by 70. Opposite to
it are the Main Barracks, with accommodation for
1000 men, originally used as a hospital, for which purpose
the building was founded in 17 72. The Congregational
Church is in the same square.
Other large churches ' not before mentioned are the
Lutheran Church in Strand Street and St. Mary's, the
Roman Catholic Cathedral in Roeland Street.


119
The former was built in 1780, prior to which no place of public
worship existed outside of the Dutch Reformed Church. The
building is large, but in appearance more quaint than striking.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral was erected in 1851 at a cost of
£11,000, and can seat 700 people. The interior contains a picture
presented by Napoleon III. and a handsome marble altar. The bell
was given by the Marquis of Bute.
Some distance up Kloof Road the School and Home of St. George
and St. Michael are in course of erection.
Another street leading from the Parade Ground is Plein
Street where most of the cheap emporiums of the city are
situated. It is worth visiting on Saturday nights when
many of the Malays, clad in all the colours of the rainbow,
do their shopping. On the right hand side is the back
entrance to the Magistrates’ Court, a handsome build-
ing in the Italian style, recently completed, the principal
entrance facing Church Square.
Theatres. —A handsome building, thoroughly up to
date, and the largest theatre in South Africa, has been
erected close to the Parade Ground, with a good stage
and seats for 1200 people. There are also several concert
halls : one large one near Government House, the old Drill
Hall known as the Vaudeville, &0.
Water Supply—The Cape Town water supply is derived from
Table Mountain, the streams on the northern slope being collected
in large reservoirs ; further supplies are also obtained from the
back of the mountain by means of a tunnel connected by several
miles of cast-iron pipes with the town reservoirs. The capacity of
these is being largely increased so as to keep pace with the growing
wants of the town. The total daily consumption of water for all
purposes amounts to 700,000 gallons.
The streets were first lighted with gas in 1848 and the decks are
illuminated by electric arc lamps which may be seen for miles
across the water. -
Drain e_—The drainage of Cape Town has always been unsatis-
factory an the persistent tinkering of old and inefiicient schemes
has never led to any permanent improvement. However, in spite
of the unsavoury epithets lavished upon it by those used to the
perfect drainage of English cities, it is certain that Cape rI‘own has
always been superior in this respect to anything to be found on the
Continent. Hitherto the sewage has been deposited in the bay, to
be carried away by the currents, which are occasionally rendered
useless by the efiect of wind and tide, but it is now proposed to form
a sewage farm, which shall not only do away with the pollution of
the bay but also transform the sandy flats into fertile and productive
gardens.


120
Defence—Cape Town must always remain an import-
ant naval station, as the blocking of the Suez Canal would
immediately render it again the “ Half-Way House to
India,” a fact which only appears to have been patent to the
authorities since the recent Russian scare. Since that date
very important additions have been made to the defensive
works of Table Bay, which has also been connected by rail
with the naval station at Simon’s Bay on the other side of
the peninsular. The heavy guns of modem construction
range from six tons to 23 tons and are mainly distributed in
batteries along the foreshore and on Signal Hill. A small
military force of 1000 to 2000 men is always stationed at
Cape Town, further supplemented by several volunteer
regiments amounting to about 1000 men.
HOUSE Rent—The favourite place of residence in
'Cape Town itself is the locality known as the Gardens,
situated in the upper part of the town near the head of the
Government Avenue. A small house of three or four bed-
rooms and two living rooms costs about £5 per month in
this locality; rents are everywhere high in Cape Town,
partly due to the local taxation falling mainly on the
shoulders of the landlords, the gross value of property and
not the income derived from it being‘assessed. By far the
greater proportion of the well-to-do inhabitants reside in the
numerous suburbs that nearly encircle the mountain.
Climate,-—A special meteorological table is given and
the subject is thoroughly considered in the climatological
article.
Suburbs of Cape Town—Those to the west of
the bay, which have the advantage of the sea view and
breezes, are Green and Sea Points (pop. 2923), consist-
ing of a row of picturesque villas stretching for three miles
along the base of Signal Hill and the Lion's Head. These
suburbs are connected with Cape Town by rail and tram.
The road passes several cemeteries on the right hand side
which have been closed for some years, and the shipping
in the docks comes into view, a long conspicuous wall
marking the rear of the convict-station. A large open piece
of ground, also to the right, is the Green Point Common, at
the end of which is the half~way tram station. On the


121
coast line near the docks is the New Somerset HOS-
pital, a large building ornamented with turrets, in the
midst of pleasant grounds, maintained by Government at a
cost of £6500 per annum.
Further on is the Wynyard Battery where some of the
heaviest guns are placed. The Mouille Point and
Green Point Lighthouses are also on the borders
of the Common, the former with a fixed red light, the latter
with a white'flash light visible at a distance of thirteen
miles. Several small batteries, mounted with six-ton muzzle
loading guns, have been erected for the defence of the point.
Near Mouille Point, at a stone’s throw from the beach,
are the remains of the machinery of the “Athens” which
was driven on shore in 1865. Although within a few yards
of land not a soul succeeded in getting ashore.
On the left hand side behind the Dutch Church is another
heavily armed battery. Near the tram-terminus is Sea
Point, a rocky mass on which, during a gale, the sea
breaks with tremendous force. In calm weather and at low
water many beautifully coloured anemones may be seen
among the pools.
The Queen’s Hotel (12s. 6d.), distant five minutes’ walk
from tram or train 5—Arthur’s Seat, 10s. 6d. ;—Sea Point,
7 s. 6d.
For Advertisement see page 17.
These two suburbs have undoubtedly a better winter
climate than those to the east of Cape Town, due principally
to the lesser rainfall, and the speedy drainage of surplus water
secured by the abrupt slope of the mountains and their
proximity to the sea. Sea Point also enjoys a comparative
immunity from the summer gales from the south-east.
The suburbs to the east and south-east of Cape
Town are attainable by train from the main terminus and,
as far as Salt River, by tram from the Standard Bank
corner.
Woodstock, (pop. 4973), formerly Papendorp, one
mile, with a good beach for bathing. Near by is Craig’s
Battery, one of the most important links in the chain of


122
defensive works which protect the bay. Formerly a series
of forts known as “The Lines” ran from the spur of the
Devil’s Peak through Woodstock to the beach forming the
boundary of the early settlement.
In Salt River, two m., the workshops of the railway
carriage and locomotive departments are situated, giving
employment to from 300 to 400 men.
Maitland (pop. 2039), three m., is a scattered
village in the neighbourhood of the new cemeteries. In
the same parish is the Cape Observatory, erected in
1829 and supported by the British Government. Permission
may be obtained on application to the astronomer-royal to
view the interior arrangements.
Mowbray and Rgsebank (pop. 3108) are small
suburbs at the foot of the Devil’s Peak, in the latter is a
large match factory for which however the splints are
imported.
Rondebosch (pop. 3378) 5 m., is one of the principal
suburbs and contains many of the finest mansions and villas
to be found in South Africa, including the Governor’s country
residence.
Newlands, 6 m., contains the Western Province
Cricket Ground, with a large pavilion and many handsome
trees; here all the principal cricket and football matches
are contested. The residence of the Bishop of Cape Town is
in the neighbourhood. (Boarding House, The Vineyard,
10s.
C)la,rem0nt (pop. Newlands and Claremont 6237) 6%
m., has a large public-hall, where entertainments are fre-
quently held. Kenilworth, 7 ‘E m., is in the neighbour-
hood of the race-course.
Wynberg (pop. 4947) 8 m., 146 ft. above the sea, is
generally regarded as the suburban limit—The Wynberg
Times.
Hotels.—Cogill’s, 12s. 6d.;—Royal, 7s. 6d.; Boarding
House, Mortimer Hall (late Drake’s), 8s. 6d.
For Advertisements see page 18.
Wynberg is a fair sized village on the eastern side of
Table Mountain. The military camp on Wynberg Hill
ranks as one of the most healthy among foreign stations.


123
The village is well planted with trees and is a model of
cleanliness and good order, the water supply which was
brought from the neighbouring mountain at a cost of
£16,000 being particularly good. The surroundings are
pleasant and the wine farms of Constantia (see Excursion No.
2) are easily accessible. For ascent of Table Mountain see
below. The Wynberg side of the mountain enjoys an
immunity from the south-east winds.
The railway runs as far as Simonstown, 22% m.
Table MQuntain,—The great charm of Cape Town,
which entitles it to rank with Naples, Rio J aneiro and San
Francisco as possessing one of the most beautiful bays of the
world, is the magnificent mountain, which rises behind the
town in a sheer precipice to the height of nearly 4000 feet,
cutting the sky line with a jagged horizontal front two miles
in length. The talus of this giant wall runs almost to the
sea, the higher portion being covered with vegetation and
seamed with ravines cut by the torrents which rush down from
the mountain after rain. On either side and rather in
advance of Table Mountain are two lesser peaks forming the
horse shoe valley in which Cape Town is situated. That to
the left, the Devil's Peak, rises to an elevation of over
3300 ft. and was known to the early navigators as the
“ mountain of the winds ”. At what date it acquired its later
name is not known, but that it had its origin in popular
superstition can hardly be doubted by those who have heard
the south-easterly gales rearing and whistling among its
desolate gorges. The mountain to the right is the Lion's
Head, over 2000 ft. in height, which is connected by a
spur with a lesser elevation first named St. James Mount
and now known as the Lion’s Rump or Signal Hill.
The Ascent of Table Mountain, although fatiguing, ofiers no
mountaineering difliculties, the only danger to be apprehended being
from the dense clouds which collect at times round the summit of
the mountain and produce the well-known phenomenon of the
Tablecloth. As this peculiar appearance is generally occasioned
by south-east winds it occurs more frequently in summer
than in winter, but the extreme suddenness with which the clouds
arrive make it impossible at any time to predict that the
mountain will be clear for the next twenty-four hours. Fatal
accidents have occurred from visitors wandering about in the mist
and falling over precipices, whilst others, preferring the safer plan


124
of waiting for the mist to rise, have remained in one spot for many
hours. It is then far safer for strangers, if unaccompanied by
residents who know the mountain well, to hire a guide, who can
always be procured on application to the landlord of the hotel.
(No tariff. About 5s.)
There are three principal ways of ascent, the shortest of which is
by “ THE GoRGE,” a deep cleft in the face of the precipice, almost
invisible from the town but offering a steep and fairly safe means
of access to the summit in about four or five hours.
Another path BY THE KASTEEL BERG follows the new water-pipes
above Camps Bay until a great chasm in the side of the mountain
admits of fairly easy access to the summit of the Kasteel Berg,
when, by crossing the flat top for the distance of about a mile and a
half, the forester’s house is reached and another long climb with no
difiiculties leads to the brow overlooking Cape Town.
A longer road is FROM Wi'mBERG to the forester’s house whence
the same path is followed, an ascent so gradual as to be practicable
for horses (hire of horse from Wynberg about 10s. to 12s.).
The usual plan is to choose a moonlight night and start during
the small hours, but there is no reason why fairly good pedestrians
should not accomplish the trip by daylight.
Only those who explore the mountain can form any idea
of the beauties hidden among its rocks. The frowning
precipices which seen from a distance speak only of the con-
vulsions of nature are found on nearer approach to open
into tiny glens and valleys adorned with streams and
cascades and clothed with the most beautiful foliage and
flowers. The flat summit of the Kasteel-Berg or Castle
Mount, which forms the buttress of the great precipice
overlooking the bay, is a miniature continent in itself, its
surface diversified by river and hill and producing a flora
to be found nowhere else. The view from the summit is
magnificent, Cape Town lying immediately beneath, so near
that a stone could apparently be tossed into the streets;
beyond are the waters of the bay and the fertile plains of
the Koeberg district; a little to the left the Lion's Head,
conspicuous but dwarfed in comparison to its appearance
from below. To the south the view embraces the whole
of the Cape Peninsular including Simon’s Town, False Bay
and the Hottentot’s Holland Range beyond.
The Lion's Head and Signal Hill both command
extensive views, the latter being easy of access, whilst the
former, although offering no serious dii'liculties, requires more
climbing than Table Mountain itself. Chains however have


126
Robben Island (pop. 701) situated at the mouth of
the bay, about seven miles from Cape Town, is regularly
visited by the “Tiger” which leaves the docks Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays at 9.30 a.m., returning in the
afternoon. Landing is difficult on account of the surf.
Permits at the Colonial Oflice.
Trips round the island are frequently made on fine moon-
light nights from the central jetty. A lighthouse with a
fixed white light, visible at a distance of 20 miles, is situated
at the southern end of the island. Robben Island has been
mainly used of late years as a leper and lunatic asylum, but
the latter are to be removed to Mowbray. Several great
native chiefs have been kept here in captivity, the most
famous perhaps being Linksh, who was drowned on the
Balauwberg beach in attempting to escape from the island.
ROUTE I.
CAPE TOWN TO SIMON’S TOWN AND THE CAPE OF GOOD
HOPE VIA WYNBERG, ETC.
Simon’s Town is now connected with Cape Town by rail,
which, after passing through Wynberg, traverses the little
settlements of Plumstead and Diep River (Grand
Hotel, 10s.), where large quantities of fruit and vegetables
are produced for the Cape Town market. Muizemberg,
15§ m., on the shore of False Bay is a favourite summer
watering place. (Hotels, Farmer Peck’s, Albion). St,
James, 16% m., and Kalk Bay, 17 111. (pop. 1458) are
much visited for the sake of the excellent bathing and
fishing they afford. (Hotels: King’s and Masonic).
Simon’s Town, 22% in. (pop. 3572) (Hotels, Royal
British, 9s), is the headquarters of the Cape and West
Coast Naval Squadron. Extensive dockyard accommoda-
tion, extending for nearly a mile along the shore, has
been erected, with all appliances necessary for refitting and
repairing the vessels maintained on’ the station. The bay
itself is well sheltered and affords splendid holding ground
during the severest weather. The first British occupation
in 1795 was effected from this point, General Craig landing
his forces on the beach under cover of the fire from the fleet.


127
Of late years extensive defensive works have been under-
taken which will render the station impregnable from the
sea. The town enjoys a magnificent climate, the only
drawback being the south-easterly summer gales which blow
_ during about four months in the year. Several creeks along
the shore afford excellent bathing and the higher tempera
ture of the water compared with that of Table Bay admits
of even invalids indulging in this recreation throughout the
year. The mean maximum air temperature for the year is
704° and the mean minimum 57-1", the thermometer
seldom falling below 50°. There are no buildings of any
architectural pretensions. The town contains two Naval
Hospitals, also English, Roman Catholic, Dutch and
Wesleyan Churches.
Cape Point is 17 miles distant and is a favourite
excursion from Simon’s Town. There are no regular
conveyances, but riding horses can be hired for 7s. (id.
to 10s., and carts for about 30s.
There are two roads leading to the point, the first wind-
ing high up along the cliff for some distance and then
turning inland, the other climbing by a long steep ascent to
the summit of the tableland along which it continues. The
country is wild and sandy and the scenery not very interest-
ing. The light at the point is 840 ft. above the water
level. From the edge of the cliff on which it stands, a vast
mass of rock juts out to sea, at the base of which is a large
isolated column known as Vasco da Gama’s pillar. The
outer point which trends a little farther south than the
Cape itself is named after the well known South African
astronomer Maclear.
One of the best known Cantos of Camoens’ “Luciad”
treats of the passage round the Cape, described under the
poetic similitude of the giant Adamastor—
“ . . . afigure to appal
Robust and vigorous in the air appeared
Of stature all deformed and vast and tall ;
The visage frowning and with squalid heard
The eyes were hollow and the gesture all
Threatening and bad ; the colour pale and seared,
And full of earth and grizzly was the hair,
The mouth all black, the teeth all yellow were.”
——Aubcrtyn’s ’ 'mnslntz'ou.


ROUTE II.
FROM CAPE TOWN 'ro WORCESTER BY RAIL; Passmo
THROUGH STELLENBOSCH, THE PAARL, WELLINGTON,
TULBAGH, AND CERES AND INCLUDING THE SIDE LINE T0
MALMESBURY.
The trains leave Adderley Street Station twice daily, pass
through the suburbs of Woodstock, Salt River (the junction
of the Simon’s Town branch) and Maitland into the Cape
flats, a sandy tract connecting the Cape Peninsular with the
mainland. At no distant geological period the sea flowed
over this low-lying area, connecting Table and False Bays
by a shallow stretch of water. In modern times the drifts
of sand, whirled across the flats by the boisterous south-
easters, have proved very troublesome and for many years
all attempts to fix the sands by planting proved unavailing.
Later endeavours however have been more successful and a
large area has been planted with pipe-grass and Wattles,
covering the hitherto shifting sands with a luxuriant and
remunerative undergrowth.
Durban Road Junction, (12 m., carts meet train
fare ls. 6d.), is the nearest railway station to Durbanville
(pop. 484), 6 miles distant, one of the centres of an important
wheat-growing district which extends northward beyond
Malmesbiu'y. The country is flat and uninteresting.
At this point the railway divides. The direct line passes
Kraaifontein Junction for Malmesbury and rejoins the
Stellenbosch loop line a little farther on.
Malmes'bury, 49% m. (pop. 2446), 363 ft. above sea level.
Hotels: Commercial, 7s. 6d.
For Advertisements see pages 6, 8, 62.
Dutch, English and Roman Churches.
The village is pleasantly situated in the midst of a corn and wine
district and contains a handsome town hall with a small library.
The mineral springs which are enclosed in a stone building, fitted
with baths and dressing-rooms for the convenience of bathers (15.),
' are well known in South Africa. They have a temperature of 88° and
have been found efi‘icacious in cases of rheumatism and paralysis.
Carts run from Malmesbury on Tuesdays and Saturdays to Hope-
field (40 m., fare 12s. 6d.) (pop. 555), a small village near the Great
Berg River, near where large fisheries are established.


b’! 01k,‘ (116!‘

3 ‘Table Bav
y DcxK-I ./

,
F5 O u {t 7h’ e
{Ibrrydale



DO
5


.rn
gb
f0’





F9 .


" _____.


a 1’. FLifgbq‘fljgeffitnih. __

.--<


'0


129
Darling (pop. 230), 25 In. from Malmesbury, is reached by post-
cart, Tuesdays and Saturdays, fare 5s. There are hotels at both
places.
The Stellenbosch loop line bends to the south-east as
far as the Eerste River Junction, 21 miles, from.where
a branch line runs to Somerset West and Sir Lowry’s Pass
(see p. 148).
It then curves to the north-east, the scenery becomes
more diversified, and to the right of the train the peaks of
the Hottentot’s Holland Mountains are seen which for many
years formed the boundary of the Dutch Settlement. As
the train enters the beautiful and fertile valley of Stellen-
bosch, vineyards and farms become frequent, and the scenery
is perhaps more English in character than elsewhere in the
Colony.
Stellenbosch (31 m., 346 ft. above the sea) (pop.
3464), distant ten min. drive from the station. Carts meet
all trains, fare 9d. Hotel: Commercial, 7s. Mrs. Kirsten’s
boarding-house, 5s.. Mrs. Wium’s, (is.
For Advertisement see page 80.
The principal buildings are the College, an extensive
establishment with a Grecian facade ; the Theological
Seminary of the Dutch Church, and the Dutch, English and
Wesleyan Churches. There is a small library of 1800 vols.
Stellenbosch, with the exception of Cape Town, is the
oldest settlement in South Africa, having been laid out by
Commandant van der Stel in 1681 and named after himself
and his wife, whose maiden name was Bosch. For many
years it was the Ultima Thule of civilisation in South Africa
and was repeatedly called upon to repel the cncroachments
of Bushmen and Hottentots. In the centre of the town, as
in most others planned by the Dutch, is a large grass-
grown square or common which, in the early days of the
village, was the scene of an annual fair of considerable
importance. The most noticeable feature of the town is the
number of magnificent oak avenues which line the streets.
These trees were planted by order of Van der Stel more than
200 years ago and have thriven amazingly in the damp, mild
climate. The old houses in many instances are worthy of
notice, their many paned windows and heavy thatched
10


130
gables frequently dating from the first settlement of the
town. Stellenbosch has always been an important educa-
tional centre, and its schools and colleges rank among the
first in South Africa.
The summer climate is pleasant, the great oaks rendering
the streets cool and shady on the hottest days, but in winter
the rainfall is considerable and the town is extremely damp.
The surrounding district is fertile and largely planted with
vineyards which however have suffered severely of late years
from the phylloxera. Fruit of all kinds is plentiful and
cheap during the season. The water supply is abundant and
good. Living is about 25 per cent. cheaper than in Cape
Town and good houses may be obtained. There is however
little society and none of the bustle of business. Under the
leafy arcades the stillness of the cloisters reigns during the
heat of the day, the town having at all times an ancient
and sleepy 'appearance and a South African Rip Van Winkle
might awake after a lengthy nap without finding many
modern innovations to surprise him.
A fine view is obtained from the PAPAGAI BERG (half~an-hour)
overlooking the town and valley with the Hottentot’s Holland as a
background, the road to which is a continuation of Dorps Street
crossing the railway at Bosman‘s crossing where a path turns up the
hill to the right, through the cemetery.
In the old days, when the existence of the Colony depended on
every man being able to use his musket, this hill was the spot
chosen for target practice. It was then the custom to mark out a
ring, 120 feet in diameter, in the centre of which a pole was raised
supporting a stufied figure resembling a parrot (papagai); the
marksmen stood round the circle and fired in turn, prizes of dif-
ferent values being awarded according to the part hit. A scarcely
less curious target but one more worthy of our present arms of
precision is occasionally to be met with among the up-eountry Boers
of to-day. A hole about 18 inches deep is dug in a level piece of
ground large enough to contain a turkey'cock, the bird being
retained in the hole by means of a piece of canvas pegged over the
top. In the centre of the canvas is an opening large enough to
admit of the bird’s freely protruding and withdrawing its head
which forms an object by no means easy to hit at a hundred paces.
A pretty drive is to J onkershoek, six miles, (cart, 7s.) among
the spurs of the Hottentot’s Holland where there is an old farm
containing many picturesque nooks.
A good read at the foot of the mountains leads to Somerset
west, no public conveyance, carts 12s. 6d. return. (See page 148.)


131
Another drive is to I'ranschhoek (pop. 648), three and a half
hours (20s.) through a wine-growing country. This village was
founded about the commencement of the eighteenth century by the
Huguenot refugees and is well planted with oaks. There is 21. ~
waterfall and some beautiful mountain scenery in the neighbour-
hood, which can also be reached from the Paarl. No hotel but good
boarding-house (Gideon Kriel, 21s. per week).
Leaving Stellenbosch the railway joins the direct line at
Mulders Vley and enters the valley of the Pearl, renowned
for its vineyards. The view to the right is bounded by the
Drakenstein Mountains, the opposite side of the valley
being formed by the lesser elevation of the Paarl Mountains.
The Paarl, 49 m. 'vz'l'i Stellenbosch, 36 miles direct from
Cape Town, 405 feet above the sea (pop. 7663), centre of
town 20 minutes’ drive from the station ; fare ls., late
trains 2s. De I ‘aurl ,- De Af'n'lraausc/ze Patriot‘.
Hotels‘: Royal, 8s. 6d. Boarding-house, Mrs. de Villiers,
5s
for Advertisements see pages 6, 8, 20, 58, 69, 70.
Dutch, English and Lutheran churches; town hall with
large concert room ; library of about 3000 volumes.
The Paarl is situated on the banks of the Berg River
along which it extends in a straggling line for a distance of
about five miles. The houses in parts are much scattered
and alternate with fruit gardens and vineyards. To the
west of the town the Paarl Mountains rise to a considerable
height and are crowned by three enormous granite boulders
which go by the name of the Pearl (Dutch “paarl"), the
Diamond and the Paarl Stone, the first of these giving its
name to the district. The vineyards run some distance up
the steep sides of the hill and in summer the soft green
foliage contrasts picturesquely with the rugged slopes above.
Much of the fuel burned in the town is derived from the
so-called sugar bushes which grow on the summit, and many
cleanly-swept tracks are noticeable down which the immense
bundles of brushwood are dragged. On the eastern side of
the town, at the distance of some miles, are seen the
fantastic peaks of the Drakenstein which protect the valley
in a great measure from the south-east winds.
The neighbourhood produces much of the best wine in
South Africa some kinds being almost as much esteemed as


132
those of Constantia. The climate is pleasant, and the town
is not so damp in winter as Stellenboseh. Most of the
inhabitants are descended from the Huguenot settlers and
the scions of the ancient and noble house of De Villiers are
so numerous as to render nicknames indispensable.
The river is of considerable size for South Africa and
affords bathing and fishing. A shady path known as the
“Lovers’ Walk” winds along the west bank for some
distance.
The Paarl Mountain may be easily ascended by any of the
numerous paths at the back of the town in about an hour, the best
view of the town being obtained from the Paarl Stone onto which
an old cannon has been hoisted to do honour to Her Majesty's birth-
day. A little farther back are seen the Pearl and the Diamond.
The smooth rounded sides of the former are easily accessible and on
a clear day the summit commands a most extensive view, Table
Mountain and the sea being visible. The Diamond is more difficult
of ascent.
An hour’s walk among the vineyards to the south-east of the town
leads to the RESERVOIR formed by closing in a gully in the moun-
tain side. A little further on are the QUARRIES from which the
granite used in the Houses of Parliament was obtained.
A covered post-cart runs to Franschhoek on Tuesdays, Thursdays,
and Saturdays at 1 RM. (two and a half hours) fare 4s. The road
runs along the base of the Drakenstein Mountains to their junction
with the Hottentot’s Holland near which is the village. (See
page 131).
Half way there is a fine waterfall which is the source of the Berg
River.
Leaving Paarl station the train crosses the river by an
iron bridge to LADY GREY Station, three miles distant,
whence the town of Paarl is easily accessible by cart (ls. 6d).
The line new approaches the Draohenstein Mountains
passing through a succession of vineyards and reaches—
Wellington, 58 m., 324 feet (pop, 2725). Town 15
minutes from station ; fare, ls.
Hotels: Masonic, 8s. Dutch and English Churches.
Library with 1500 volumes.
For Advertisement see page 82. '
The town is situated at the foot of the Drakenstein
Mountains at the point where the pass known as Bain’s
Kloof crosses them to the Breede Valley. The town is
regularly laid out and well planted with trees, a good sup-


133
ply of water being obtained from the mountains. At one
time when the railway terminated here Wellington was the
forwarding and receiving centre for the inland districts, and,
prior to the time of railways, the magnificent road over the
mountains secured to the town a large amount of Waggon
traffic, but in 1875 the line was opened to Ceres Road and
this source of prosperity came to an end. The place has
however a busy and prosperous appearance. Besides the
wine and brandy industry there are Waggon, leather, vinegar
and jam factories, the fruit required for the latter being
grown in and about the town. The climate is hot but
healthy, and the town possesses exceptionally good educa-
tional establishments.
Bain's Kloof Pasg_--There are no public conveyances across
this pass. Carts may be hired for 20s. to 25s. Distance to second
toll 14 miles; to Darling bridge 18 miles.
The pass was constructed about 1854 by convict labour under the
direction of the late Mr. Bain and is justly considered one of the
finest examples of road~making in the Colony. It has lost much of
its importance since the opening of the railway beyond Worcester
and now but little trafiic passes over it.
After a drive of half-an-hour through pleasant country the first
toll-gate (6d.) is reached at the foot of the mountains, whence the
road winds gradually upwards at so easy a gradient that there is
never any necessity for the horses to proceed at a walk. The
scenery is very attractive, the slopes of the mountains being clothed
with verdure and the gently rounded hollows below studded with
farmhouses and vineyards. An ever extending view is obtained over
the valley until the summit, 9 miles, is reached at an elevation of
about 2000 ft. above the sea and 1700 ft. above the plain below.
From this point the view on a clear day extends for about 40 miles.
In the foreground lie the village and homesteads of Wellington;
farther to the left is the fertile Paarl Valley and the mountains with
their coronet of glistening boulders, the white houses of the town
dotting the lower slopes being distinctly visible. Beyond these
stretch the great grain-producing plains of the Koeberg, known as
the granary of South Africa, which are bounded in the far distance
by the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean. Immediately on com-
mencing the descent the character of the scenery entirely changes.
The verdant and rounded slopes of the Western side are replaced by
frowning and jagged masses of rocks which shut out the country in
every direction. The road is blasted out of the side of the moun-
tain and hangs many hundred feet over a ravine which conveys the
head waters of the White River to the plain below. The descent
continues steep and stony through the same wild scenery to the
second toll-gate (9d.), 14 miles from Wellington, where the difi-i-


134
culties of the pass may be said to end and the scenery becomes
milder in character. After a further drive of three-quarters of an
hour, the Darling Bridge, which crosses the Breede River, is reached
at a point 18 miles from Wellington, 18 from Worcester, 20 from
Ceres, 10 from Ceres Road Station and a. quarter of an hour's drive
from Breede River Station, whence the train may be taken if desired
and the cart sent back to Wellington. During the spring the pass
abounds in beautiful flowers, principally heaths and orchids. Par-
tridges, pheasants and hares are plentiful and leopards and buck
may be shot in the side kloofs. The tourist should take provisions
with him as he cannot depend on getting anything on the road.
The double journey occupies about 7 hours.
Leaving Wellington the train approaches the mountains
and, at 60 miles from Cape Town, reaches HERMON, a little
village with about 100 inhabitants.
Carts leave here for RIEBECK KASTEEL and Rmsnex Wear on
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays; fares 2s. 6d. and 3s. respectively.
Both are little villages in the corn and wine districts. No hotels.
Piquetberg Road Station, 71 miles, is an im
portant posting centre consisting of an hotel and a few
stores.
Carts leave here Wednesdays and Saturdays at 1245 A.M. for :—
Porterville (pop. 621) 24 miles, 5 hours, fare 11s.
Clanwilliam (pop. 708) abt. 100 miles, 18,} hours, fare 50s.
O’okiep (Copper Mines) (pop. 1902) 320 miles, 68 hours (fare
by arrangement, Saturdays only).
Also on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 12-30 P.M. for :—
Piquetberg (pop. 461) 34 miles, 7 hours, fare 16s.
Leaving Piquetbcrg Road the line bends sharply to the
east and ascends the Tulbagh Bank in a succession of steep
gradients. The valley at this point is very narrow but
soon opens out into the Tulbagh Basin, a fertile stretch of
country producing grain and wine and surrounded by the
Winterhoek and Witzenberg Mountains, the highest point
of which reaches an elevation of 6840 ft. Tulbagh Road,
75% miles, (hotel) is three miles from Tulbagh.
Tulbagh, cart, 1s. 6d. (pop. 639). Boarding-house;
no hotel. The principal town of the district, situated in
a deep valley. This neighbourhood is celebrated for the
beauty and variety of its wild flowers which grow in
wonderful profusion, the best month to see them being


135
September, when flower shows are occasionally held which
attract large numbers of visitors from Cape Town.
The line now turns to the south-east to Ceres Road,
Station, 84% m. (hotel) and 10 by Road from Ceres (post
cart 4s).
The road traverses the celebrated Mitchell's P355, opened in
1848, another fine example of road engineering. The scenery how-
ever, although fine, is not equal to that of Bain’s K100i. The Breede
River takes its rise among the mountains that hem in the pass, and
the road runs for six miles along the right bank, either blasted out
of the solid rock or built up with retaining walls. A bridge at the
entrance of the kloof connects the Worcester Road with the pass.
The mountains are wild and rugged in the extreme but relieved as
usual by the verdure of the valley and hollows. Portions of what is
humorously termed the “ old road ” may still be seen, climbing over
boulders and plunging into hollows with an utter disregard of
gradient which nothing that ever ran on wheels could live through.
Yet a little more than forty years ago this formed the only route by
which the farmers dwelling in the‘rich Bokkeveld and the surround-
ing districts could convey their produce to market. Everything,
including the waggons, was conveyed piecemeal on the backs of oxen
and mules over the pass, the passage of which seldom occupied less
than a. week. The summit of the pass, 2000 feet, is reached about
one mile from Ceres, from whence the road descends about 300 feet
to the town.
Ceres, 1700 feet (pop., 1758). Hotels : Belmont Private
Hotel, 12s. 6d., just outside village;—Commercial, 7s. 6d. ,—
Ceres Sanatorium, 7s. 6d. ;—Faure’s Boarding House, (is.
For Advertisements see pages 24, 25.
The town, laid out in 1854, is situated on the Warm
Bokkeveld and surrounded by mountains which completely
screen it from the south-east winds. The town is prettily
laid out with wide streets crossing one another at right
angles and lined with oak trees. The Dwaars River, mulling
through the town to join the Breede River, is crossed by a
picturesque wooden bridge. Pure spring water is supplied
to the town through a wooden viaduct from the Witzenberg
Mountains. There are English, Presbyterian and Dutch
Churches, the latter with more architectural pretensions
than usual. There is also a. small well-kept library of 1500
volumes.
Climate. -Dr. Leach, medical officer for the port of London, first
called attention to the town in 1878 as a suitable place of residence


136
for those suffering from lung diseases and since that time it has
gained steadily in favour. Dr. Zahn, district surgeon writes: “ Its
elevation and sparsity qfpopwlation confer 'upon it all the advantages of
diminished bacterial life, of so much importmwe in the treatment of
phthisis, while the dryness of the atmosphere, especially during the summer
months, and of the soil, a large amount of ozone in the air and the intensity
of light all tend to make the climate an agreeable one and highly bene-
fieial to the invalid. 'I'he nights are delightfully cool and bracing and
the air being dry the invalid is enabled to sleep with open windows.
. . The winter months at Ceres are not —so favourable as the
summer." A separate meteorological table is given.
Every accommodation for invalids is obtainable at either of the
sanatoriums.
The soil is sandy with a subsoil of yellow clay and rapid drainage
is secured by the elevated position of the town. A further elevation
of 1000 feet may be reached by a two-hours’ drive. Fair sport is
obtainable in the neighbourhood ; fruit is abundant and good during
the season. Before the railway was built Ceres was an important
station on the route to the diamond fields, but now little traffic is to
be seen save an occasional produce-Waggon lumbering down to the
nearest railway-station. There are no public conveyances beyond
Ceres but carts may be hired in the town.
Returning to the Ceres Road Station the line continues to
the southward through the Breede River Valley to the
Breede River Station, 92% m., near the foot of
Bain’s Kloof which is visible to the right of the train.
At Goudini Road, 101 m., is a hot spring which has
been found beneficial in cases of cutaneous affections but is
little used, accommodation being defective.
Worcester, 780 feet, 109 m., mean winter tempera-
ture 56°, summer do. 75° ; pop., 5400.—The Advertiser.
Hotels—Commercial, Ss. 6d. ;--Masonic, 8s. ; Kock’s
Boarding House, 5s. English, Dutch, German and Congre-
gational churches. Library in the post-ofiice building with
about 2000 volumes.
For Advertisements see pages 6, 8, 82.
The Central Railway from shton forms a junction here
with the main line. Buffet at station.
The town is situated at the base of the Hex River Moun-
tains and is well supplied with water from the Hex River,
led in through an artificial canal six miles long. The town
is laid out in parallelograms, grouped round a fine double
square about which are gathered most of the principal
buildings. The streets are lined with rows of blue gum,


137
‘ oaks, willows and poplars kept green by a plentiful supply
of water, their verdure being materially enhanced by the
sterile appearance of the surrounding mountains.
Worcester is an important centre of viticulture, very large
quantities of brandy and wine being produced in the neigh-
bourhood. It is also one of the principal seats of the
Waggon-building ‘industry. Some of the streets are partially
lined with these immense vehicles, their bodies temporarily
supported on nail kegs awaiting the finishing touches of the
painter. The woods employed in their manufacture are
mostly of colonial growth, the Knysna forests in particular
producing large quantities of timber admirably adapted
from its toughness and elasticity to withstand the shocks
and strains occasioned by the South African roads. The
well-known “Cape carts” are also made here in large
numbers and are more than able to compete successfully
with the importations from America.
At Brandvlei, distant nine miles, are thermal springs, with a
temperature of 145°, resorted to for cutaneous diseases.
ROUTE III.
WORCESTER ‘1'0 SWELLENDAM V12 ROBERTSON AND
ASHTON.
The Cape Central Railway from Worcester to Ashton, is one of
the few lines in the Colony owned by private companies. A fair
amount of traffic passes along it and its principal importance is due
to the fact that it must one day form part of the Coast system.
The line traverses the Breede River Valley and the
district of the “Kalkbank” of which the wine producing
capabilities are mentioned" on page 31. A considerable
quantity of grain is also grown and the valley affords
pasturage to large flocks of sheep and cattle among which
a few ostriches may be seen.
Robertson, 28 m. from Worcester, 614 ft. (pop.
2064).
Hotel—New Commercial, 7s. 6d. English and Dutch
churches. Small library.
The village is situated close to the foot of the mountains


138
and presents the usual appearance of white houses nestling
among trees. It is of' little interest save as an important
agricultural centre. Waggon-making is also carried on to a
considerable extent. The radiation of heat from the rocky
overhanging mountains occasions at times an oppressively
high temperature. (Carts to Lady Grey, 2s.)
The line proceeds to Ashton, 41 m., consisting of a
few houses collected round the terminus, among them an
hotel, 5 minutes walk from the station.
Carts to Montagu 4 miles, 28. per head.
The road to Montagu turns to the left and speedily enters the
celebrated Cogman’s Kloof through which the Kingna and the
Keizie, uniting at the head of the pass, run to join the Breede
River. The rock scenery is very fine, the strata having been
violently twisted and contorted by volcanic agency. In many
places the rocks are highly coloured by lichens which appear
particularly brilliant after rain. At one point a mountain spur has
been tunnelled to admit of the passage of the road. '
Montagu, 4 In. from Ashton, 750 ft. (pop. 1296).
HoteL—Montagu, 7s. Mrs. Brink's Boarding House. English
and Dutch churches.
For Advertisement see page 8.
Montagu is the centre of a fertile agricultural district and is
principally known to the outer world through its hot mineral baths
(110°) situated two miles from the village. The spring has been found
very efiicacious in cases of rheumatism and cutaneous complaints
and is visited by invalids from all parts of South Africa. There is
a boarding-house capable of accommodating 18 people erected on
the spot (6s. per day). Two small baths are connected with the
establishment and the arrangements have lately been considerably
improved. The scenery around is mountainous and attractive.
Swellendam is reached from Ashton by post cart on
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings in 4% hours,
fare 12s. 6d. Cape Town may be reached from here m'ri
Calcdon. See Route V.
ROUTE IV.
WORGESTER_TO KIMBERLEY, VRIJB RG, MAFEKING,
TULI, &c., AND JOHANNESBURG VI KLERKSDORP.
Leaving Worcester, 109 m. from Cape Town, the
line follows the Hex River Valley and speedily meets the


139
apparently insuperable barrier of the Hex River Mountains
which form the buttress of the Great Karroo 'I'able Land above,
and appear to shut out all further progress in that direction.
But tunnels, embankments, steep gradients and sharp
curves have overcome the difficulty and within a distance of
36 miles of Worcester an altitude of 3193 feet is reached
being a rise of 2400 feet. Over 20 miles of that distance
are at a gradient of l in 40 to 1 in 45, down which the train
runs on the return journey without the necessity of steam.
A fine View of the valley is obtainable from the summit, the
scenery being all on the left hand side of the train in
ascending. At Touws River, 160 m., a halt of a
quarter of an hour is generally made for refreshments. The
highest point on the line, 3588 feet, is reached between here
and Matjesfontein near the 186th mile-post.
Matjesfontein, 19412L m., is a small village belonging
entirely to Mr. J. D. Logan who, by means of energy and
capital, is accomplishing wonderful things. There is a model
station here with every convenience where a halt is made of
40 minutes for refreshments.
Opposite the station are an hotel and villa where visitors
are received, 10s. a day. The climate is dry and bracing,
the site being in the course of the breezes blowing between
the Karroo and the Hex River Pass.
Carts leave here for Sutherland, 60 m. (pop. 410) every Friday,
fare 50s., a little village in the centre of an extensive sheep-pastur-
ing district. .
At Langsburg, 213 m., the altitude of the line is only
2717 feet, the descent continuing until the Dwyka River is
crossed at a level of 2537 feet, the lowest point beyond
Worcester.
Prince Albert Road, 265% m., is the nearest station
to Prince Albert, Oudtshoorn and the Knysna.
Conveyances run to Prince Albert, 45; hours daily, fare 12s 6d.
To Oudtshoorn, on Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays, fare £2 10s.
For particulars see Route VI.
The line ascends to Fraserberg Road, 290% 111'
Carts run to Fraserberg on Tuesdays and Fridays, fare £2, in 18
hours (pop. 574). This village is another sheep-farming centre 4200
feet above sea level.


140
Beaufort West, 339 m. 2850 feet (pop. 2725).
Hotels—Royal, 8s. 6d.; Masonic, 8s. 6d.; The Lemoen-
fontein Sanatorium, 3300 feet, 5 miles distant, 10s. 6d.,
carts, 5s. Public library, 1200 vols—The C(rurier.
For Advertisements see pages 11, 20.
The Dutch and English churches are both of stone and
the first is a very fine building. There are Wesleyan and
other places of worship and Roman Catholic services every
three months.
Being the largest town in this part of the Karroo and
connected by train with Cape Town, Beaufort West is much
resorted to by invalids. The district produces very large
quantities of wool the production of which forms the staple
industry of the inhabitants. Although the soil in places has
proved exceedingly rich, the scanty rainfall renders agricul-
ture an impossibility without extensive irrigation. The town
itself is well supplied with water from a large dam with a
capacity of 500 million gallons constructed at a cost of
£1200. There is a Government plantation of trees in the
neighbourhood and the village itself is an avenue of green
pear trees and luxuriant gardens surrounded by fields,
orchards and quince hedges.
Leaving Beaufort West the train passes between the
N ieuwveld and Koude Bergen Mountains and ascends to the
Northern Karroo by Nels Poort, 370% miles.
Conveyances leave here on Tuesday and Friday afternoons for
Murrayburg (pop. 1045) 50 m., fare 20s. and for Wagenaars Kraal
on Saturdays at 6 A.M., 7 hours, fare 15s. Wagenaar's Kraal is
considerably higher than Beaufort West and highly recommended
for consumptives. It consists of two or three houses and gardens
in the open veldt and is exceedingly quiet. Accommodation for a
few people is provided.
At Brakfontein, near the latter, is ametcorological station. An
extract of observations is given and may be regarded as typical of
the climate in this portion of the Karroo.
Victoria West Road, 419% m., is eight miles
from—
Victoria, west, 4100 feet (pop. 1200) (carts daily, fare 5s).
Hotela—Commercial; Victoria. The village is situated in a
kloof and is very healthy, but the winters are extremely cold.
Carts also run from the station on Wednesdays and Fridays, 27
hours, fare £2 10s., to Gunmen (pop. 925) a village in the centre


141
of a sheep-rearing district. (Hotel). Van Wijk’s Vlei, a reservoir
capable of holding 35,000,000,000 gallons is in the Carnarvon
division. The construction of this, the largest example of irrigation
in the Colony, cost only £20,000.
Richmond Road, 471% m., is 21 miles from-—
Richmond, 4530 feet (pop. 1236) (hotel), one of the coldest spots
in the Colony. Carts run daily, except Monday, fare 125. 6d.
De A31- (pop. 617), 500% in. (hotel), is the junction of
the Cape Town and Port Elizabeth lines. A halt of 25
minutes is made at this station where refreshments are pro-
vided.
Carts leave here on Wednesdays and Saturdays for Britstown,
27 m., fare 205., and for Prieska, 107 m., fare 40s. The latter is
a village of about 500 inhabitants situated on the Orange River at
the foot of the Doorn Bergen. The climate of the division is stated
to be favourable to persons suffering from pulmonary complaints.
H0111’, Kral], 519% m., is the station for——
Philipstown (pop. 781), 20 m., (hotel) (carts on Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays, fare 10s.), noted for its healthy and
invigorating climate.
Orange River, 570% 111. (hotel), a station shortly before
crossing the Orange River. The bridge, constructed at a
cost of £60,000, is probably the finest in South Africa. It
was opened to traffic in 1885. The total length is 1230 ft.
in 9 spans, the height above the water being 56 ft.
Hope Town, 3600 ft. hotel (pop. 747), 6 m. distant, is reached
by cart, fare 7s. 6d.
It was in this district that diamonds were first discovered and the
village is gradually growing in importance. The river is spanned
at this point by another fine bridge, 1480 it. long, the largest in
the Colony, built by the Government at a cost of £114,000 for the
purposes of general traffic.
From Belmont Station, 591% m-
Carts leave on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 7'30 A.M. for :—
Douglas (pop. 264) 10 hours, fare £2.
Campbell (pop. 207 ) 13 hours, fare £2 105.
Griquatown (pop. 401) 16 hours, fare £3 10s.
Modder River, 623 m. (2 hotels), has long been a
favourite holiday resort of the inhabitants of Kimberley.
A cart runs from here to Jacobsdaal in the Orange Free State
on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, fare 5s.


142
Beaconsfleld, pop. 10,478 (whites, 4396) (2 hotels),
must be regarded as a part of Kimberley with which it is
connected by tramway. Originally intended as a home for
those who had squatted round the mouths of the Du Toit’s
Pan and Bultfontein diamond mines, it was laid out as a
separate township and possesses its own municipal offices,
court house, gaol, &c., but the policy of monopoly pursued
by the De Beer’s Company has had disastrous effects, and a
town, which would probably have joined Kimberley by this
time if the mines had remained open, drags on a very
miserable and second rate sort of existence just at present.
Kimberley, 4042 ft. 647% m. (pop. 28,718), of whom
12,658 are of European extraction.
Hotels—Central, Du Toits Pan Road, 12s. 6d.; Grand,
Market Square. 10s. 6s; Queen’s, Stockdale Street, 10s. 6d.;
Transvaal, Market Square, 10s. ,' Craven, 10s.
The Post and Telegraph Ofiice are on Market Square.
Trams run to Beaconsfield and De Beer’s every half-hour; fare
6d.
Cab5_—1s. per adult per mile; 7s. 6d. per hour; 50% extra at
night ; 20 lbs. luggage free.
Daily Independent ;—Diam01ul Fields Advertiser.
For Advertisements see pages 6, 8, 54 to 56, 68.
The existence of Kimberley, dates from the year 1870 when
diamonds were first discovered on the farms of Du Toits Pan
and Bultfontien. The rush which followed speedily created
an extensive mining-camp, which, in course of years, gradually
developed into the substantially-built township of the present day.
The first diamond appeared on the scene three years prior to the
discoveries at Kimberley, a trader named O’Reilly obtaining a stone
of 21} carats from a Dutchman who was entirely ignorant of its
value. This stone was submitted to the crown jewellers and finally
purchased by Sir Philip Wodehouse for £500, O’Reilly most
honourably dividing the proceeds with the former'owner. Two
years later the same Dutchman obtained from a Hottentot for
£400 a stone of 83% carats which he immediately sold for £11,200.
This stone, since valued at £25,000, is now known as “ the Star of
South Africa ” and is in the possession of the Countess of Dudley.
Diggers now arrived in great numbers and the Vaal River diggings
were discovered, a population, reckoned at 10,000, spreading along
both banks of the river, all eagerly engaged in searching for the
precious gems which in a moment could make a poor man wealthy.
The discovery of diamonds in the dry diggings next drew many
from the river to Du Toits Pan and Bultfontein and, the following
year, two more mines were found in the farm Voruitzicht, which


143
became known later as De Beers, and Kimberley, the whole four
mines being situated within a circle, 3.} miles in diameter.
The farms soon changed hands and the new proprietors imposed
increased taxes on the diggers, leading to disputes which were
speedily complicated by an international question as to the owner-
ship of the soil. The proclamation of 1871, declaring Griqualand
West to be British territoryI was disputed by the Orange Free State
whose claims were finally settled in 1876 by the payment of £90,000.
In 1875 the diggers, irritated by the actions of the Government,
rose in rebellion and hoisted the black flag, but the disturbance
fortunately passed off without bloodshed.
I, D, B.-—The facility with which diamonds could be stolen, and
the great profits attached to a systematic method of‘ thieving, had
naturally attracted a large number of scoundrels from all parts of
the world, who found ready tools in the natives employed in the
mines. This illicit traffic attained such enormous proportions
that it is supposed that at one time not half the diamonds found
reached their legitimate owners. In 1882 and 83 stringent regula-
tions were enacted with regard to the possession of rough diamonds
and an extensive detective department was inaugurated. The
trapping-system which came into vogue can only be defended on
the ground of the great difiiculty in bringing a conviction against
an I. D. B. or illicit diamond buyer, by the ordinary methods of
justice.
About this time the formation of Joint Stock Companies on a
small scale commenced. This has since developed into the amalga-
mation of all the mines under one head.
Visitors passing through the diamond districts are warned that,
under heavy penalties, no rough diamond may be bought from any
but a licensed dealer.
The most striking feature of the town is the irregularity
with which it is laid out. Here the straight streets crossing
at right angles and at equal distances so generally found in
South Africa, are replaced by a want of uniformity, due no
doubt to its gradual growth from a mining camp. Corru-
gated iron still enters largely into its construction, although
many iron buildings have been replaced by more substantial
edifices.
Public BUi|dingS.—The principal buildings are the
High Court of Gn'qualand West on the Market Square, with
a handsome clock-tower; the Post and Telegraph Offices on
the same square; the Public Library, a handsome building
of different coloured bricks in Du Toits Pan Road, well
fitted up and containing one of the best collections of books


145
fact in 1882 more than half the claims were buried and the remainder
seriously hampered. In 1885 the greatest depth of the open working
was 450 feet, the cavity excavated representing 9,000,000 cubic
yards of which about half was reef. Mining is now carried on by
underground working extending to a depth of 1200 feet.
The De Beers Mine lies exactly one mile to the east of Kim-
berley Mine and is somewhat larger in extent. Till within recent
years reef difficulties have been kept well in hand, but in 1883 heavy
falls began to take place which finally led to the adoption of under-
ground working which has also reached a depth of 1200 feet. De
Beer's is the show mine for visitors to see. Permits can be obtained
and a few hours profitably passed in wandering from the original
open hole to the engines which raise the blue, descending into the
well lighted tunnels beneath the earth, passing across the floors to
inspect the first washing. when the mud is taken from the disinte-
grated blue and carried to the top of an artificial hill, and finally
watching the pulsator at work, the stones which are at length
carried to the sorters being reduced in the various processes from
100 trolly loads to 5 cubic feet. The model village of Kenilworth is
a. pretty little place and all comers must be struck by the efforts of
the company to make life agreeable to those they employ.
The Bultfontein Mine, situated two and a half miles to the
south of De Beers and two and three-quarter miles south—east of the
Kimberley has been mined by open workings which have reached a
depth of from 600 to 700 feet. The discovery in 1889 of further
deposits to the north-east has resulted in the extension by the N. E.
Bultfontein Company. Although the network of hauling wires
which used to exist in the early days of Kimberley and De Beer’s is
dispensed with now, the life and movement of a diamond mine
worked on the open principle is a most curious sight.
The Du Toits Pan Mine is three-quarters of a mile to the
north-east of Bultfontein. Most valuable stones come from here
although its yield per load is lower than that of some of the other
mines. The largest stone found in South Africa came from Du
Toits Pan and weighed 404 carats or more than 3 oz. The mine is
not being worked at present.
The Wesselton Mine about a mile east of the Du Toits Pan is
being worked for a term of years on the open principle in agreement
with the De Beer’s Company to whom it belongs. It bids fair to
become very extensive.
Two miles west of Kimberley is the Otto’s Kopye mine, and it is
possible that more mines may be discovered in the district and
prove quite as rich as any known at present.
Bultfontein stones are the smallest, but are particularly pure in
colour. The most valuable diamond, the Porter-Rhodes, a white
octahedron weighing 150 carats and valued at £60,000, was found
near the centre of the Kimberley Mine. The largest stone from the
De Beers is a yellow diamond of 302 carats.
The total yield of diamonds from the four mines and the river
11


146
diggings, from their discovery up to date, probably exceeds ten tons,
representing a value of some £60,000,000 sterling.
Carts run every day except Sundays from Hebron Road to
Barkl West, distant 23 miles (fare 15s.) (pop. 1037). Hotels.—
Queen s; Masonic.
For Advertisement see page 55.
The oldest town in Griqualand West and, prior to the sudden
rise of Kimberley, the most important. It is situated on the north
bank of the Vaal, here spanned by a bridge, and was once the centre ‘
of the RIVER Dreemes which are scattered along both banks for a
distance of about 70 miles.
The principal river diggings are KLIPDAM, HEBRON, WARRENTON,
GONG-GONG, WALDEKS and LANGLANDS. The diamonds are found
among the river wash, the richest deposit being frequently embedded
among immense boulders. Their origin is uncertain as, although
they would appear to have been brought down by the river, very
few stones have been found either above Christiana or below the
junction of the Hart River. River diamonds are considerably more
valuable than Kimberley stones but far less abundant. The largest
' yet found weighed 288 carats, and the total yield probably exceeds
£2,000,000 in value.
The principal holiday resorts are Modder River to the south
(previously mentioned) where the Modder and Riet Rivers join, and
Warrenton, Hebron and Riverton to the north, in all of which
accommodation may be had.
Riverton Road, 663 miles, is the station for—-
Riverton, 9 miles. Carts daily.
Hebron Road, 674% m., is the station for——
Hebron (pop. 790) (hotel), also on the Vaal River and an impor-
tant centre for the river diggers. Carts daily, fare 4s.
The same cart runs on to Klipdam. For carts to Boshof and
Bloemfontein, see Bloemfontein.
Warranton (pop. 880) 691 m., is a small village on
the Vaal at the point where the railway crosses the river.
The village is named after Sir Charles Warren.
Post Carts leave here on Tuesdays and Saturdays for :—
Christiana, 6 hours, fare £1.
Bloemhof, 12 hours, fare £2.
Wolmeranstad, 22 hours, fare £3.
Klerksdorp, 31 hours, fare £4.
returning on Sundays and Thursdays.
For coaches between Klerksdorp and Johannesburg, see page 225.
Fourteen Streams, 694ii m., is on the north bank
of the Vaal and was an important transport and posting


147


station before the railway was opened through Bloemfontein,
sharing with Vrijburg most of the traffic that previously
fell to Kimberley.
The boundary between Griqualand West and Bechuana-
land is crossed between Fourteen Streams and Taungs, 731
miles, situated on the Hart River.
Taungs is an important native centre, the chief
Monkorane and his tribe, numbering nearly 10,000 souls,
residing near the town. Sir Charles Warren erected a fort
here during the Bechuanaland expedition. The soil is
fertile and cattle breeding is carried on, the great drawback
being scarcity of water.
Vrijburg, 7 73% In. (hotel) is the terminus of the Cape
Government Railways, but the extension to Mafeking, about
100 miles further north, is in course of construction. Vrij-
burg, the capital of Bechuanaland, has increased rapidly
in importance since it has formed the terminus of the rail-
way. Its present prosperity however can scarcely survive
the completion of the various railway systems. As a place
of residence its advantages are not apparent, and the visitor
will probably regard it as the dustiest and most uninviting
town he has yet passed through. The surrounding country
is undulating and ‘covered with leaden-hued scrub which
must render colour-blindness an actual blessing.
Conveyances leave Vrijburg on Sundays and Thursdays for
Mafeking, fare £3 10s., and on Sundays only for Ramoutsa, £11 ;—
Mochudi, £13 10;—Palla, £18 10s ;—Palachive, £23 10 ;—Macloutsie,
£28 10s.;—Fort Tuli, Salisbury, dac. See Chartered Company’s
Territory.
DISTANCES from Vrijburg to the following places in BECHUANA-
LAND, &c. :-—
Setlagoli, . . . 52 miles Shoshong, . . 2981 miles
Mafeking, . . . 99 ,, Gubulawayo, . . 598 ,,
Kanye . . . 163% ,, Zeerust, . . . 135 ,,_
Molepolele, . . 203% " Malmani, . . 129 ,,
Mafeking, 875 miles, is a thriving little town and
business centre which will soon be connected with Vrijberg
and the rest of the world by railway. It has been declared
a “Free Warehousing Port” under the Customs Union
Convention, and goods may be purchased there from Bonded
Stores under “Rebate” an important point to those who




a
mp1
- »

..th
20
_E ‘q Em

4}
~ _ _. amazes». I‘ffi'e- ................. - fit‘.
sh. Miles.
30 50




2‘!
25
Sp e ciaJJv !
asmramazwpa.





150
as the natural home of the Cape heaths, of which it is cal-
culated that over 350 varieties exist among the mountains.
In three-quarters of an hour an easy descent commences to
Palmiet River (one and a half hours) where refreshments
may be obtained. The river is crossed by a wooden
bridge and the road continues over long rolling downs to
Houw Hock (store and post-office, three hours) where the
post cart changes horses. At this point the scenery
improves, the road winding through the Houw Hock
Gorge with the Bot River running many feet below. A
little further on, this river is crossed by a bridge and the
undulating country continues to Caledon, which is reached
in about six hours. ‘
Caladgn, 800 ft., 81 m. from Cape Town (pop. 1279).
Average rainfall 21} in. but variable. The climate is genial
and pleasant.
Hotels.—M‘Leroth’s; Devine’s ; Mrs. Laugsmith. All
boarding-houses about (is. a day.
English and Dutch Churches, the latter a handsome
building erected in 1880 at a cost of over £7000 and capable
of seating 800 people. Small library.
The village is situated in a valley formed by the Harte~
beest Mountains and one of the projecting spurs jutting out
from the same range. To the south the view is bounded by
the broken range of hills which line the sea shore, con-
spicuous among which is the elevation known as Babylon’s
Tower. The village is not laid out in the usual succession
of parallelogranis but the streets conform to the irregularities
of the valley. The oaks and blue gums with which they
are lined afford a grateful shade from the heat, further
tempered by mountain and sea breezes, the coast being
only 20 miles distant. Good shooting is procurable, hares,
springbok, quails and paaus being plentiful in and around
the mountains, the quail shooting in particular is considered
to be the best in the Colony.
The baths are situated three-quarters of a mile from the
centre of the village and are reached by a road ascending
the rise to the north-east of the town, from whence a charming
view is obtainable. The history of the baths dates back from
the early days of Dutch occupation, and there is no doubt
that the natives of the country made use of their healing


151
properties from a much earlier period. The Dutch East India
Company were fully a‘ware of their value, and many officials
invalided from the East derived new strength and health from
their healing waters. Subsequent to the taking over of the country
by Great Britain many English East India officers visited the baths
and wonderful cures were recorded. The opening of the Suez
Canal, however, turned away the tide from the East, and the springs
falling into incompetent hands were almost forgotten save by those
in their immediate neighbourhood. Of late years the number of
visitors has increased, and the baths are rapidly rising in favour
with the medical fraternity who recommend the water for Gout,
Rheumatism, Lumbago, and Paralysis. It is not unusual for a
patient to arrive almost bedridden, and, after a few weeks’ treatment,
start off on foot for a shooting tour among the mountains. The
springs are seven in number, one cold, the rest having a temperature
of 120° at the fountain-head. Their total yield is 150,000 gals.
daily and the following is an analysis of the water :—
Ferrous Carbonate . . 2'10 grns. per gal.
Calcic ,, ' . . trace ,,
Sodic Sulphate . . . 0'85 ,,
Calcic ,, . . . 1'63 ,,
Magnesic ,, .. . . 1'05 ,,
Sodic Chloride . . . 4'03 ,,
Silica . . . . . 1'80 ,,
Alumina . . . . 0'75 ,,
Total 1221 ,,
The amount of Ferrous Carbonate held in solution in the water is
stated to be four times the amount of that of any other known
spring. The accommodation is being largely added to, the baths at
present being four in number, of difierent temperatures, with a hot
swimming bath. (Brand’s Bathing Establishment: baths 6d. each.)
Mail carts leave Caledon on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays
at 4 A.M. for Bredasdorp, a distance of about 45 miles, occupying 10
hours (fare 20s.).
The road runs for a great part of the distance over light sandy
plains, admirably adapted for sheep walks, and large quantities of
wool are raised in the district.
Napier (pop. 539), 36 miles from Caledon, a village with Dutch '
and English churches and a small hotel, is the only place on the
road where refreshments are obtainable.
Bredasdorp (pop. 600) 220 feet, is the chief town of the division,
with English and Dutch churches and a small library. Standard
Hotel.
Horses can be obtained here for Cape Agulhas, 20 miles distant,
the most southerly point of the African Continent. A lighthouse
has been erected on the Cape, 100 feet high, with a light visible
at 6 leagues. Agulhas, signifying needles, is derived from the


152
saw-edged reefs and sunken rocks which run out to sea and are most
dangerous to vessels hugging the land too closely. Probably the
best known of the many wrecks which have been caused by the
Agulhas Bank is that of the Birkenhead, which struck on the reef
near Danger Point on the 26th February, 1852. The quiet heroism
of the soldiers, who stood in line under their ofl‘icers while the
women and children were helped into the only two boats available,
will not soon be forgotten. The vessel parted almost immediately
and, between the surf and the sharks, 357 ofiicers and men perished.
Mail carts from Caledon for Swellendam, 53 m., run three times
weekly, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays (fare 20s. , leaving
Caledon 1'45 A.M., reaching Swellendam mid-day. No ot er public
conveyance, but private carts may be hired for about £3.
The road runs eastward at the foot of the Zonder Einde
Mountains from which it is separated by the river of the
same name. The Zonder Einde Post Station, 23 miles, is
reached in 4% hours where slight refreshments are obtain-
able and horses are changed. From here the road passes
over the same fertile undulating country to Storms Vlei
(7 hrs. 37 In.) where there is a small hotel and post-
oflice and horses are again changed. From this point the
country becomes more open. The Zonder Einde Mountains
come to an end and the road bearing slightly towards the
north approaches the Lange Bergen. At 50 miles the
Breede River, until the completion of the bridge, is crossed
by a pontoon (charge for vehicles Is. to ls. 6d., foot-pas-
sengers 3d.). The scenery here is very pretty, the river,
about 80 yards wide, winding between steep banks covered
with luxuriant foliage. From this point a hilly drive of four
miles leads to—
Swellendam, 500 ft., 134 m. from Cape Town (pop.
1725).
Hotels: Reid’s. Boarding-houses: Madeira House and
Miss Kuhn’s. English and Dutch Churches; library of
2000 vols. '
The town of Swellendam is situated two miles from the
foot of the Lange Bergen and extends for about 3 miles
along the valley of a lesser tributary of the Breede River.
It is one of the oldest towns in the Colony, having been
founded in 1745, and was formerly of much greater import-
ance and size than at present. The rise of the neighbouring
villages, Montagu, Heidelberg, Riversdale, etc. gradually


153
sapped the trade of the older town and of late'years in
particular its prosperity has greatly declined. The moun-
tains 'at the back of the town rise to a considerable height,
and the deep wooded kloofs and gullies with which their
sides are scored afford shelter to a quantity of game. In
spring the neighbourhood abounds in the beautiful wax
heaths, and wild-flower shows are occasionally held.
Ashton Railway Station may be reached by mail carts on
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, leaving at 6 A.M. (fare 15s., 5 hrs.),
from whence the main line is reached at Worcester (see p. 136).
Port Beaufort seven hours distant from Swellendam by mail
cart, leaving Saturday morning and returning Monday (fare 15s.
small hotel) is situated at the mouth of the Breede River which is
here of considerable width and navigable for several miles. As
with all African rivers the entrance is obstructed by a bar which,
however, does not prevent the ingress of small vessels. When the
prosperity of Swellendam was at its height a considerable trade was
carried on here, but now vessels seldom enter the river. It is
probable that in the future its natural advantages will again secure
its recognition among the South African harbours.
The main road may be reached at Heidelberg by a direct route
if desired, carts leaving Port Beaufort 10 A.M. on Thursdays, 35» hrs.
The mail carts for Heidelberqg, Riversdale and Mossel Ba
leave Swellendam on Tuesdays, hursdays and Saturdays at mi -
day being due at—
Heidelberg 4 P.M. 30 miles, fare 15s.
Riversdale 6-30 P.M. 49 miles, fare 22s. 6d.
Mossel Bay 2'45 A.M. 105 miles, fare 47s. 6d.
The road runs eastward from Swellendam and (% hr.)
crosses a tributary of the Breede River by a fine bridge with
masonry piers, (toll-gate at far end) built by the munici-
pality during the palmy days of the town.
Zuurbrak (1% hrs.) 011 the Buffelsjagt River is a
large mission station inhabited by over one thousand
Hottentots under a native “Captain”. They each have
their allotment of land and a considerable stretch of the
fertile alluvial ground of the valley is cultivated by them.
The village has not a very prepossessing appearance, the
dirtiness of the mud huts and undue familiarity of the
pigs reminding one forcibly of the “finest pisintry in the
world". The place contains English and Dutch Churches
and a small boarding-house.


154
Carts leave Zuurbrak Tuesdays and Saturdays for Ban'ydale
(3 hrs.) (pop. 350) returning Mondays and Wednesdays. The road
may be seen crossing the mountains to the left by Tradouws Pass.
Barrydale is a small village where a. periodical Court is held once a
month.
From this point the road to Heidelberg, overhanging
the left bank of the stream, becomes more picturesque.
Leaving the valley, a slight bend is made to the southward
over elevated and hilly ground, completely devoid of trees
till within a few miles of Heidelberg when clumps of Mimosa
become frequent.
Heidelberg, 100 ft., 900 inhabitants (Hotels: Mun-
nick’s ; English and Dutch Churches), is situated on the
Duivenhoeks River.
The principal products of the neighbourhood are wool,
grain, aloes and tobacco.
A mail cart runs from here to Port Beaufort, distant 21 miles on
Tuesdays, returning Thursdays.
The road to Riversdale, 19 miles distant, lies over hilly
heath-covered ground with occasional patches of sand.
Riversdale, 200 ft., pop. 1800. Royal Hotel. Eng-
lish and Dutch Churches. Small Public Library. Two Parks.
The town is situated near the Vette River and is about
two miles in length. The district contains some of the
best grazing ground in the Colony of which advantage is
taken to rear large flocks of sheep, together with horses,
mules and cattle. Great quantities of ostrich feathers are
also produced in the numerous camps throughout the district,
and the wool fairs held here twice a year are among the
most important in the Colony. The town is well planted
with trees and has an abundant water-supply. Good shoot-
ing is to be had in the neighbourhood.
A road recently opened over the Lange Bergen connects Rivers-
dale with Ladismith in the South Karroo (pop. 595), a town 1860
ft. above sea level, with a dry and healthy climate and surrounded
by some of the most productive farms in this part of the country.
Carts leave Riversdale Wednesday mornings and Saturday evenings,
nine hours—60 miles.
The main road to Mossel Bay passes the Kafi‘erkuils River
below its junction with the Vctte River by a new bridge at


155
the bottom of the town and traverses uninteresting country
to the Gouritz River, 36 miles. Formerly the road des-
cended abruptly from the table land to the level of the
river bed, by a declivity known as the “ Hell”. During the
dry season the river could be easily forded, but, during the
rains, its volume increases enormously and carts used then
to be ferried across. It is now spanned by an iron cantilever
bridge, 200 feet high and 240 feet long, which is available
for railway purposes. From this point the ground is fairly
level but occasionally heavy to Mossel Bay (23 m. farther
on .
lflossel Bay, 239 m. from Cape Town, about 250 ft.
above sea (pop. 2064).
Hotels 1 Standard ; Union, 7s. 6d ;—Masonic, (is. English,
Dutch and Roman Churches. Good Library. Park.
For Advertisements, see pages 63 to 65. _
The town is situated on the sandstone blufi's overlooking
Mossel Bay and, pretty enough from above, does not present
a very attractive appearance from the sea. The houses are
well built, the material in most instances being the sandstone
quarried in the neighbourhood. The bay is protected from
westerly gales by Point St. Blaize, which stretches for some
distance out to sea on the west side of the town.
A wharf, built of wood and iron at a considerable costenables
small vessels to load and discharge cargo with every facility.
At the extremity of the point, some twenty minutes’ walk
from the town, a lighthouse has been erected on an over-
hanging bluff, at the foot of which a dangerous reef of saw-
edged rocks is visible at low water. Good sea bathing is
obtainable in a rock-bound pool near the point, Mossel Bay
being -a favourite summer resort for those living in the
district.
It is also a port of ' call for the coasting and intermediate
steamers of the Union and Castle Lines and for the boats
of the Clan Line, and is the centre of a large forward-
ing trade, only requiring a connection with the existing
railway system to increase enormously. The town has a
good supply of water led from the hills at a cost of £26,000.
The climate is equable even for the ‘coast, and the rainfall
is only 17 inches.


156
Steamers leave every few days for the coast ports, fares
by all lines the same.
To Cape Town (see table).
To Knysna lst - - — £1 5 O.
,, 2nd - - - l7 6.
ROUTE VII.
MOSSEL BAY 'ro OUDTSHOORN (DIRECT OR mid GEORGE),
THE CANGO CAVES AND PRINCE ALBERT, TO THE MAIN
LINE AT PRINCE ALBERT ROAD STATION.
Carts run direct to Oudtshoorn over the Robinson Pass on
Mondays, starting at midday and returning from Oudtshoorn on
Friday evening ; the journey occupies 11 hours ; fare each way 255.
The view from the top of the pass, 2800 ft., is very fine. Food
and lodging can be had at Huhnc’s, 1330 ft., 4 hours from Mossel
Bay.
Another Route is m'd George, by carts leaving Mossel Bay on
Sunday, Wednesday and Friday mornings in connection with the
Cape mail at about 4 A-M. The journey occupies 4 to 5 hours,
fare to George, 15s. From this town mails and passengers are
conveyed by another cart to Oudtshoorn over the Montagu Pass in
7 hours, fare 21s.
The first route, although shorter by fifteen miles, is not to be
compared with the second in point of scenery.
Taking the route to George, the road follows for some dis-
tance along the shores of the bay, on which the remains of
more than one wreck are visible, and then turns in a north-
westerly direction towards the mountains. As far as Sprigg’s
Bridge the road is ‘hilly and the ground covered in places
with brushwood, among which the prickly pear and the aloe
are conspicuous. From this point it is fairly level travel-
ling to—
Great Brak River, 2% hrs., a small village and‘
posting station beautifully situated close to the sea, and
much frequented as a summer resort.
For Advertisements, see page 44,
A climb of two and a half miles to the top of a
saddlcback affords a charming View, the valleys on each side
being well wooded and thick with beautiful flowers and
ferns. Far below on the left hand side the dark waters of


157
the river wind among pastures of the most vivid green,
whilst on the right the hills rise more abruptly, and after
rains a stream dashes down in a series of cascades to the
valley below, where the white cottages of the village are
visible among the trees.
On attaining the summit of the hill the road emerges on
to a flat table land, some six hundred feet above sea level,
affording good pasturage to horses and cattle; it continues
with variations of hill, dale and swamp, to BLANCO (pop. 460,
4 hotel), a prettily situated hamlet, whence a well-made road
leads to George in three miles.
George, 35 miles from Mossel Bay and about 4 miles
from the coast, 620 ft., (pop. 2400).
Hotels—George, 8s. 6d. ;—Blignault’s Boarding House,
6s.
English, Roman Catholic and Dutch Churches ; Public
Library; George and Knysna Heraldy
For Advertisements, see pages 43, 44.
The town is situated near the base of the Outeniqua
Mountains, about three miles from the foot of Montagu Pass,
and is undoubtedly one of the prettiest spots in the Colony.
The streets are particularly wide, well shaded with oak
trees and bordered with streams of running water. The
surrounding scenery is as varied as it is beautiful, sea-coast,
forest and mountain all being attainable within one hour’s
drive ; good shooting is also to be had in the neighbourhood.
The climate is renowned even in South Africa, and, unlike that
of the coast belt in general, appears to be favourable to con-
sumptive invalids. In its early days George was the centre
of a very large district, Mossel Bay, Oudtshoorn and Knysna
being included under its jurisdiction. It is still an Archi-
Diaconal seat and a considerable centre for education. The
English Church, well built of stone, was opened in 1850.
To those seeking quietude and rest few places ofi’er so many
attractions as George. .
Three miles from George is Pacaltgdorp (pop. 632), near the
sea coast, the first English Mission Station in South Africa, founded
in 1812. The church tower commands an extensive view. Victoria,
Bay, Dutton’s Gove, Keiman’s River, 8w, are favourite holiday
resorts in the neighbourhood.


158
The main road to Oudtshoorn leaves George on the western
side of the village and returns to Blanco (three miles), which
is the terminus of the Montagu Pass. This magnificent pass
was opened in 1849 with great ceremony, having cost over
£35,000. After passing the stone bridge at the foot of the
mountains, where the surroundings are extremely pretty, the
road ascends steadily for seven or eight miles amidst beautiful
scenery, and winds along the left side of the valley high above
the stream. Nearly the whole of the road has been blasted
out of the side of the mountains, the declivity in most in-
stances being too steep to allow of retaining walls. About
half-way up a huge stone marks the grave of one of the
convicts killed on the work. Vegetation is particularly
luxuriant, many varieties of ferns being noticeable. After
rain the pass abounds in waterfalls, some being of consider-
able beauty. Owing to the formation of the mountain
slopes the water is perfectly clear, but of a dark yellow
colour which changes into an inky blackness in the deep
pools. The summit of the pass is about 10 miles from
George.
A little way down the northern side, at a distance of
31 miles from Oudtshoorn, is the North Station Hotel
(6s), conveniently situated for tourists who may wish to
explore the more hidden beauties of the neighbourhood;
the scenery of the northern is not to be compared with
that of the southern slopes. After leaving D'oorn River
Post Ofi’ice the country becomes arid and stony, producing
little but aloes, karroo bush, rim, though the soil proves fertile
where water is obtainable. The road passes through the
Paardepoort, a rocky defile 24 miles from Oudtshoorn, to the
Olifants River-drift which is frequently impassable owing to
floods. An iron bridge, built in 1883—but another being
built at Baaken’s Kraal will serve for traific by both the
Montagu and Robinson Passes—was washed away two years
after its erection. Half-anhour’s drive on the other side of
the river is-—
Oudtshoorn, 1090 ft., 65 m. direct and 80 n1. m'd
George from Mossel Bay (pop. 4386).
Hotels—Queens, 10s. ;—Masonic, 8s. 6d.
Handsome Dutch Church built at a cost of £23,000;


159
English and Roman Churches ; Jewish Synagogue. Public
Library, 1200 vols. Newspaper: Ourifshoorn CrruJ‘u-rfi.
For Advertisements, see pages 6, 8, 65 to 69.
Oudtshoorn, situated on the Grobclaars River a tributary of the
Olifant, is the centre of the richest and most populous district of
the Colony and is generally considered to rank second in import-
ance amongst the towns of the Western Province. The population
of the district is estimated at about 25,000 almost entirely engaged
in agriculture. Fruit and vegetables of all kinds are largely grown
as well as many of the cereals, but one of the chief industries is
tobacco planting, the best quality produced in the Colony being
cultivated here. Another important industry is brandy and
vinegar-making. Ostrich farming is extensively carried on, the
district being-peculiarly favourable to these birds some of which
still exist in a wild state among the mountains. The valleys where
water is obtainable are extraordinarily fertile and ground in some
localities is very valuable; one morgen of land (rather more than
2 acres) near Schoeman’s Hoek is said to produce every year 80,000
lbs. weight of tobacco. Cigars, &c., are manufactured in the town.
The town itself is situated more or less at the bottom of
a natural basin ; the water supply is not up to the mark, a
matter which does not seem likely to be improved, as some
of the members of the community are not prepared to incur
their share of the necessary outlay. Many of the houses
and stores are well and solidly built, and the streets through
which water runs are lined with trees, the planting of which
has greatly improved the sanitary condition of the town.
Rain water is used for drinking. The climate is undoubtedly
favourable for lung complaints. ’
The immediate surroundings of the town offer little of interest
beyond the many ostrich camps, but 19 miles to the north are the
famous Gauge Caves, perhaps the finest stalactite caverns in
the world.
The coaches to Prince Albert stop near the eaves at De Vos‘
Hotel, 2 hrs., leaving Oudtshoorn, Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday
mornings, the return coaches passing the hotel about midday on
Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Carts to the Caves and back
may be hired in Oudtshoorn for 20s. or. from Prince Albert, a much
greater distance for about £2 10s.
De Vos’ Hotel is conveniently situated for those who wish to pay
more than a flying visit to the locality.
The Caves are situated in the limestone formation at the base of
the Zwartberg Range and were discovered in 1780. The entrance,
about halfway up a small hill, is of considerable size and is ap-
proached by a steep path. The Government has recently caused the


160
caves to be closed by an iron grating with the object of putting a
stop to the wholesale destruction carried on by visitors. The key
may be obtained from the custodian living at the foot of the hill
who also finds a guide. Charges for one person 5s. ; for parties
of three or four, 1s. 6d. each; five or more, 1s. each. Additional
native guides for carrying candles can be obtained for a small
gratuity.
Near the entrance to the left are the indistinct remains of some
Bushman wall-paintings apparently representing battle and hunting
scenes. Fifty yards from the entrance an iron ladder 40 feet long
descends into a large hall from which numerous passages branch ofl
right and left into side chambers.
Everywhere the roofs and walls are covered with deposits of the
lime-impregnated water which for ages has been slowly filtering
through the rocks above. These deposits take the most varied
forms, stalactites of all sizes hang down from the roof, some so
slender that a touch will break them, others again, having met the
stalagmite beneath them, have formed columns many feet in air
cumference. In other places the deposits assume more bizarre
forms, flowing draperies and curtains, figures, animals and trees are
all represented in the purest limestone, often spangled with crystals
which sparkle like diamonds in the flickering torchlight. It is
however in the more remote chambers that the fairy-like beauties
of the caverns are best seen, for near the entrance the tourist has
not hesitated to smash and batter down all that could be carried off
or to paint his illustrious name on the milk-white walls. The more
accessible places have suffered severely in this way but in the depths
of the mountains many grottos may be found which have probably
never been trodden by the foot of man. The caves have been
explored for over a mile but appear to extend to a much greater
distance. It is advisable for visitors to bring magnesium ribbon as
no number of candles are capable of illuminating the large halls,
neither is it possible to appreciate by their yellow glare the exquisite
creamy, pink and yellow colouring of the rocks.
Other caves exist in the neighbourhood. One recently discovered
is entered by a vertical shaft 70 feet deep but is of little interest.
It is reported however to contain a large quantity of guano.
The same coaches which pass the Caves run m’d Prince Albert to
Prince Albert Station (on the Western Main Line, 20 hours by rail
from Cape Town) in 16 hours from Oudtshoorn, fare £2 12s. 6d.
The road crosses the Great Zwarte Bergen Range by a
pass recently constructed rid Schoeman’s Hoek, at the
summit of which a magnificent view is obtained.
Formerly the mail took the road through Meiringspoort, more to
the east, a long rocky defile, 2400 feet above the sea, considered to
be one of the grandest in South Africa and which in former ages was
probably the outlet of a large sweet-water lake on the north of the
mountains.


161
Prince Albert (10 hrs, 62 m., 2120 ft., pop. 1415;
hotel and small boarding-house) is situated in a valley
12 miles from the top of the pass. English service is held
occasionally in the Dutch Church. There is a small
Library.
The town is pleasantly placed among gardens and fields,
plentifully irrigated by an excellent water supply derived
from the mountains. The climate is dry and healthy and
the scenery at the entrance of the neighbouring pass is
magnificent.
For further particulars see meteorological tables and
“Notes on Climate,” etc.
The alluvial gold diggings, 30 miles distant, call for no
special remark.
The mail cart halts for one hour, leaving at 5 P.M. for the
railway station which it reaches in time for the 1140 P.M.
down train to Cape Town The road passes over 28 miles of
karroo, the plain being studded at first by mimosa trees, on
the disappearance of which the veld becomes of the stoniest
and most barren description. Twelve miles from the station
is a half-way house where refreshments may be obtained.
(Fare from Prince Albert to station 12s. 6d.)
ROUTE VIII.
MOSSEL BAY 'ro GEORGE, MILLWOOD, KNYSNA, HU-
MANSDORP AND PORT ELIZABETH (roa Room To
GEORGE SEE ROUTE VII).
Post Carts leave George on Mondays at 6 A.M. ; Wednesdays and
Fridays about 9 A.M., on the arrival of the Cape Town Mail, re-
turning from Knysna Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Fares :—
George to Woodville 7s. 6d. 3 hrs.
,, Balmoral 205. 8 hrs.
,, Knysna 25s. 10% hrs.
From George the road crosses fertile country diversified
by deeply cut river beds the sides of which are generally
clothed with dense forest. No district in the Colony is so
well watered as this, no less than ten rivers being crossed on
the way to Knysna, via,- the Klein Zwart River, the
12


162
Keimans, the Silver River, the Trckentouw, the Diep River,
the Hoogekiaal, the Zwart or Geelhoudboom, forming the
boundary between the George and Knysna divisions, the
Karatara, on which the first gold-fields of the district were
proclaimed, the Homtini and the Knysna. In every case
the water, though perfectly clear, is of the dark colour
common to all the streams on the south of the Onteniqua
Range. Owing to the close proximity of the mountains the
rivers rise very rapidly in rainy weather and great caution
should be exercised in crossing them at these times with an
inexperienced driver. Fortunately however they subside
almost as rapidly as they rise and seldom cause much delay.
wogdville, 16 m., boarding-house, situated on open
ground below the forest belt. In the early morning herds
of elephants may sometimes be seen sunning themselves on
the sides of the hills opposite.
This is the best place from which to visit the lakes which
extend in a line parallel with the sea-coast at a distance of about
five miles from Woodville. Horses may be hired at 7s. 6d. per day.
The lakes, five in number, the Lang Vlei, Rond Vlei, Zwart Vlei,
Groen Vlei and Ruigte Vlei, are all brackish and abound in very
delicate fish which are generally caught in nets. During the
greater part of the year the lakes are cut off from the sea by a
sandbank thrown up to a considerable height by the tide, but,
during the heavy rains, the water rises within the barrier and,
overflowing the adjacent lands, turns the lakes into one sheet of
water until the pressure is sufiicient to burst the dam, or until
the farmers, by making a small channel, enable the pent-up water
to cut its way out; on these occasions large quantities of fish
are carried out to sea but, being unable to live in salt water,
are thrown up on the beach. The strand near the lakes is much
resorted to by pleasure-seekers from the neighbourhood and from
Oudtshoorn who bring their waggons and camp out, as there is no
hotel accommodation. Splendid bathing is to be had on the
sandy beach and beautiful seaweeds are frequently thrown up but
there is a difficulty in obtaining fresh water.
From Woodville a fine drive of 28 miles leads to Bal-
moral or Sour-flats where there is an hotel (6s. 6d.)
situated on the edge of the forest belt. Prior to arriving at
this station, the road descends into the Great Homtini Gorge
and crosses the river of the same name. The slopes are
densely wooded and afford shelter to many beautiful birds,
foremost among which is the lori, a large bird of the parrot


163
tribe with green and red plumage. Far rarer is the emerald
cuckoo with its glittering green tail and wings and yellow
belly, said to be peculiar to this part of the country.
Elephants formerly abounded in the neighbourhood but the
noise of the woodcutter’s axe and miner’s pick has driven
most of them eastward. When seen in the vicinity of the
road it is well to scare them away by shouting and whip-
cracking before attempting to pass. These animals are
strictly preserved on Government lands. Buffalo, leopard,
boar and various kinds of antelope also exist in the forest,
but the first are very scarce.
From Balmoral a road leads up through the forest belt to Mill-
wood, six miles distant, the centre of the gold-mining industry in
these parts. Most of the big timber near the road has been cut
down and the forest scenery is somewhat disappointing. Several
sawpits are passed and numerous slips, along which the timber is
hauled by oxen, may be seen leading into the depths of the forest.
The road is lined in many places with blackberry bushes which
thrive wonderfully and afford food to the loris and other birds.
About one mile from Millwood open country is reached and the camp
may be seen clustering on the summit of a hill on the further side
of the valley.
Millwood, 1500 ft. (pop. 226). Hotel: about 6s. 6d. a day.
English Church with bimonthly service; Wesleyan Chapel.
The Camp, a collection of wooden and iron buildings, is at present
half deserted owing to the partial failure of the fields. Unlike any
other mining camp in South Africa Millwood is both beautifully
and healthily situated and is far more likely to become a favourite
health resort than the centre of a successful gold field. Owing to
defective accommodation the advantages to be derived from its
elevated position, perfect drainage and proximity to sea and forest
are hardly as yet available for invalids. The view from. the town
overlooks the forest and embraces the coast as far as Mossel Bay
and, when illuminated by one of the gorgeous sunsets for which the
place is famous, can hardly be surpassed. The neighbourhood
abounds in beautiful scenery almost unknown at present save to
the alluvial gold digger.
From Balmoral a drive of three-quarters of an hour leads
to the top of the Phantom Pass, down which the road descends
700 ft. to the Knysna Valley below, a fine view being obtain-
able from the summit. Ten minutes from the foot of the
pass the Knysna River is crossed by a new wooden bridge.
It was formerly impassable at high tide, whichis felt up to


164
this point. Knysna is four miles distant and the road thither
commands some good views of the estuary and the Heads.
Knysna,’ pop. 951. Hotels—Royal, 8s. 6d. ;—Criterion,
8s. 6d. ;—Knysna, 6s. 6d. Dutch, Roman, Wesleyan and
English Churches. Public Library. Rowing Club.
For Advertisements, see pages 41, 56 to 58.
The village is situated near a land-locked estuary, fedby the Knysna
River, which afiords good boating and bathing and is navigable
for small boats for a distance of nearly eight miles. The harbour is
entered by a narrow passage, guarded on each side by sandstone cliffs
rising to a considerable height and known as the Heads. The
present depth of water on the bar is never less than 14 feet and
the Castle and Union coasting boats put in regularly, thus enabling
a considerable trade to be carried on in railway sleepers and other
timber. The inside anchorage is well protected on all sides and
a relatively small expenditure might render the harbour one of
the best in South Africa. The water area is spacious and could
easily be made impregnable from the sea, and when the wealth
of the back country (Hinterland) in timber, produce and possibly
minerals is taken into account, it is difficult to understand why the
harbour should have been passed over in favour of so called ports
which have not a fraction of its natural advantages. Goods, &c.,
are landed on the jetty, against which there is a depth of water of
30 ft., but a small tug would be of great assistance to sailing vessels.
Owing to the want of stone in the neighbourhood, the roads are
bad, and narrow gauge railways will be necessary for the proper
development of the country and forests. As the Cape Government
Railways are likely in the future to draw most of their sleepers from
here,‘ and as the timber can be employed for a number of purposes,
including Waggon building, &c., the district will probably have a
prosperous future. Saw-mills and modern machinery are constantly
being added to, and the Government are doing their best to encourage
both the planting of trees and tobacco.
The town, laid out about 70 years ago, is pleasantly
situated on flat ground near the estuary, and there is much
pretty scenery in the neighbourhood, favourite excursions
being to the Heads at the entrance of the harbour, and to
Belvedere on the opposite side of the river. (Brighton
Hotel, 5s. 6d.)
For Advertisement, see page 57.
A beautiful drive of ten hours through the forest over Prince
Alfred’s Pass leads to Avontuur and Uniondale (pop. 894; Royal
Hotel), villages in the Lange Kloof.


165
The forest belt is entered at six miles and left behind at 18 miles
and the road, which fords the Keurbooms River near the foot of
the pass, crosses the watershed between Oliiants River and the coast
at Bufielsnek.
Post carts run from George to Avontuur, nine hours, and Port
Elizabeth, m'd Humansdorp, 37 hours. The journey passes through
settled agricultural country (the Lange K100i), and is the most
practicable route from Knysna to Port Elizabeth, letters taking
about 2% days.
Knysna to Plettenberg Bay, 19 m., postcarts
leave Monday and Thursday.
Six miles from Knysna the Nutzi River is crossed on which
are situated the Harvey and Carlsten waterfalls, about 15
minutes’ walk from the road. It was near this spot that
the Duke of Edinburgh shot his first elephant in 1867.
Plettenberg Bay is a deep inlet offering secure
anchorage from all but south-easterly gales. The village
contains an hotel.
To Humansdorp, 85 m., carts must be hired (£9 to £12).
The road, which passes amidst magnificent scenery and
forests, runs through Forest Hall, Covie, Storms River and
Clarkson (accommodation at the Moravian Mission), joining
the route 'uz'd Avontuur near—
Humansdorp (pop. 554) 360 ft. above the sea
which is nine miles distant and visible from the village.
Hotels: The Star; The Farmer’s Friend. Small Library.
Dutch and English Churches. Newspaper: The Re-Echo.
The streets are planted with trees, there is a good water
supply and the climate is very healthy. Buck, partridge
and wild duck are plentiful in the neighbourhood, which
supports a population of 24,000.
The mail carts leave for Port Elizabeth m'li Cadles Pass at 9'30
A.M. on Mondays and Thursdays, 95 hrs., 60 m., fare 27s. 6d.
Port Elizabeth (pop. 23,052, of whom over 13,000
are of European extraction). Distance from Cape Town by
sea, 436 m. ; by rail, 839% m. ; by coast road, 75% hrs.
Hotels—In the Lower Town: Palmerston, lls. 6d. ;
Phoenix, 10s. 6d.—both near Jetty ; Masonic, Central,
George, 8s. 6d.~—all in Main Street; Albany, 8s. 6d.—near
Jetty. In the Upper Town: Bunton’s Grand, 12s. 6d;
Algoa House, 105. 6d. v‘-


166
Newspapers.—Er.zsfernv I ‘rovincc Hera/d ; P. E. Telegraph ;
P. E. Advertiser.
For P. B. Advertisements, see pages 6, 8, 20, 45, 74 to 76, 86.
Trams run from Market Square down Main Street to North
End Park two and a half miles. Fare as far as St. Paul’s Church,
3d. ; any distance beyond, 6d. An electric line will shortly be opened
from the Square to the Hill, running up White’s Road.
Gabs,—From Railway Terminus or any part of Market Square
or Main Street to the following :—
St. George's Park Gate . 1s. 6d. For 1 adult; every extra
Nazareth Home . . 1s. 6d.) passenger pays half fare.
Back Gate, St. George’sPark ls. 6d. 2 children under 12 = 1
Race Course . 2s. 6d. '\ adult.
North End Station . . ls. 6d. .20 lbs. luggage allow’d free.
Agricultural Show Yard . 1s. 6d. 3d. charged for every 20
Prince Alfred’s Park . 2s. 0d. lbs. in excess.
North End Cemetery . 4s. 0d. Return fares one and a half
South End of Sea Wall . 1s. 0d. times single fares.
4 wheel vehicles, to hold 5 persons—per hour 55. 0d.
2 - n .. 2 ,, ,, 3s. 6d.
Each additional mile, or part of mile, 1s. From 8 PM. till
sunrise 50% higher.
Paste Restante and Telegraph Oflice, corner of Main Street.
The European mail closes on Mondays at 5 P.M. and arrives as a
rule on Saturday.
Post Elizabeth is the second city of the Colony in importance.
In 1820 a large body of about 5000 emigrants were landed in the
bay, whose sandy shores and bleak hillocks were at that time only
relieved by the few huts clustering round the little block-house of
Fort Frederick. The town was at once laid out by order of the
acting Governor Sir Rufane Donkin, and a stone pyramid, still
occupying a conspicuous position above the town, was erected by
him to the memory of his deceased wife, Lady Elizabeth, “one of
the most perfect of human beings who has given her name to the
town below ". From that day the port has grown steadily and, by
the znergy and enterprise of its inhabitants, has earned the title of
the Liverpool of South Africa. The Custom dues received here
during the 13 years ending 1891 reached the sum of £6,047,000
against £4,666,000 received at Cape Town.
Viewed from the end of the North Jetty the town has a
somewhat dusty and colourless appearance owing to the
absence of trees and the sandy hills, clothed with scrub,
which flank it on either side. In front the slope is so steep
that steps often take the place of roads, and terraces of
houses rise one behind the other until they overflow on to


167
the table-land beyond, where the villas, gardens and parks
are hid from view by the brow of the hill. Both the North
and South Jetties are well provided with hydraulic cranes
and electric lights. Between them are two small landing
stages and there is a pleasant walk along the concrete sea-
wall as far as the commencement of the sands.
The anchorage afiords good holding ground and is sheltered from
winds blowing from south-south-east round by west to north-cast.
This limited protection is afiorded by Cape Recife, six miles to
the south-east of the town, but the lack of shelter to the east
exposes the shipping to the heavy rollers occasioned by the frequent
gales from that quarter. The prevailing winter winds are from the
north-west. The first breakwater was commenced in 1856 and
carried out for about 1700 ft. at a cost of £122,500; it was
removed in 1869 at a cost of £38,500, as the harbour had been
rendered useless by the silting up of the sand. Sir John Ooode,
whose advice was sought on the subject, recommended a scheme to
cost £1,171,000, the execution of which has not yet been undertaken.
The present accommodation consists of two wrought-iron jetties
1200 and 840 ft. long, costing, with their equipment some £150,000.
Passengers and cargo are lauded by means of tugs and lighters.
Railways connect both jetties with the main line and large quan-
tities of goods are conveyed without a break direct from the boats to
their up-eountry destinations.
Public Buildings.—Entering Jetty Street from the
North Jetty the new Harbour Board Buildings and Custom
House are on the left whilst the first building to the right
is the Railway Station, a substantial structure in white
stone. Further on is the Palmerston Hotel and adjoining
it the Malay Mosque, a yellow building in Moorish style.
Jetty Street leads into Market Square, round which are
clustered most of the principal buildings.
Occupying the south side of the square is the Town
Hall, a handsome building in the Renaissance style with a
clock tower, erected at a cost of £26,000. It cofitains, be-
sides the Public Offices, a fine Public Library of about
20,000 volumes which, although not the largest, is the most
perfectly arranged in South Africa. (Visitors are allowed
the use of the newspaper room for one month on application
to the librarian.) In the back of the building is a large
public hall used for entertainments, etc. Behind the Town
Hall are the Magistrates’ Ofiices and opposite, in front, the
Postal and Telegraph Oflices.


168
At the corner of Market Square the new Market
Buildings occupy a conspicuous position. The large
amount of excavation required rendered the cost of
construction very heavy (£7 0,000). An arched entrance
leads into the Fruit Market, 2. large hall fitted with
electric light, gallery and bandstand. To the left is the
Wool Market, and a flight of steps at the end of the pas-
sage leads to the Feather Market and Museum. The
feather markets are held on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wed-
nesdays. The Museum contains many specimens of South
African fauna, with collections of native weapons, ornaments,
&c.
Main Street is the principal thoroughfare of Port
Elizabeth and, with the exception perhaps of Adderly Street
in Cape Town, is the finest in the Colony. Both sides are
lined with offices and shops, several of the buildings being
of great architectural merit, particularly the Lombard
Chambers and the Standard Bank block. To the left is
St. Mary’s Church, Episcopalian, containing a well-
carved reredos.
The upper part of the town, known as “the Hill,” a
flat table-land overlooking the sea, is mainly composed of
villa residences and is best approached by White’s Road,
leading from Market Square to St. George's Park. To the
left is the Roman Catholic Church (St. Augustine’s)
with a good organ; opposite which is the new Theatre.
On the top of the hill is an open plot of groiuid known as
Donkin Reserve on which are erected the lighthouse and
the memorial to Lady Donkin. Facing the reserve is the
Grey Institute School with square clock tower, and near
it the Scotch Church. A short distance from here is the
Hospital, well known as one of the best conducted in
South Africa.
Following Western Road the Grand Hotel is passed on
the left hand. Farther on is Trinder square with the Club,
the Convent and a little way back Trinity Church (Anglican).
Beyond on the right is the Jewish Synagogue with a
domed roof and a little ofi' the road a handsome Congre-
gational Chapel built in 1880. A spacious building on the
lefthand side of the road is the German Lieder Tafel.


170
‘-.
the centre of a very extensive area, including the present
districts of Albany, Port Elizabeth and Somerset. The
town is placed in the pleasant valley of the Zwartkops
River on which are situated several large wool-washing
establishments, forming, together with the railway work-
shops, the main industries of the place. In the latter, 500
skilled artisans are employed in building and repairing
rolling stock. Streams run through many of the streets
which are regularly laid out and planted with trees. Water
is brought from the magnificent spring at the base of the
Winterhoek Mountains, of which the daily yield, in time of
drought, has been estimated at over 2,000,000 gallons. At
the upper end of the town are the Botanical Gardens which
form a pleasant resort. An obelisk to the left of the
entrance is erected to those killed in the Basuto war. The
Town Hall is a handsome building in the Italian style and
contains a good Library and Hall. Fruit and flowers
produce abundantly and there are pleasant drives to be had,
the surrounding veldt being bright and pretty.
The line skirts the base of the Winterhoek Mountains and
traverses the Zwaart Ruggens, a district consisting of long
low ranges of hills thickly covered with Euphorbia bush, ‘be.
Barroe, 103 miles, is the posting station for the
districts to the west of the line.
Carts leave for—
Steytlervflle (pop. 437), Mon. and Fri. aftns. 3 hrs. fare 6s. 6d.
Willowmore (pop- 801). ., only 18 ,, n 188.
The latter is the chief town of the district (hotel), which produces
mohair, wool and ostrich feathers. The climate is dry and bracing
and the town, 2760 ft. above sea level, has been recommended as a
health resort for sufferers from pulmonary disorders.
Mount Stewart, 112 miles (hotel) is the posting
station for—-
Jansenville (pop. 540), 18 miles distant; carts run Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays, fare, 7s. 6d. The village is situated on the
Sunday River which flows through one of the most fertile valleys
of the Colony. The district is mainly pastoral.
Aberdeen Road, 145 miles, from whence carts leave
for—


171
Aberdeen (pop. 1255), 21 miles, on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fri-
days and Saturdays, fare 10s. The village (hotel), 2850 ft. above
sea level, is picturesquely situated at the base of the Camdeboo
' Mountains. There is a plentiful supply of water and consequently
gardens are numerous and prolific.
Graafl' Reinet, 2500 ft., 184% m. terminus of the
railway, pop. 5913.
Papers—Advertiser ; Graafi Reineter.
Hotels.—Drostdy, 10s.; Graaf Reinet, 10s..
For Advertisements see pages 6, 8, 20.
Graafi Reinet, the oldest and largest town in the midland
districts, is built in a bend of the Sunday River which rises among
the Sneeuwberg Mountains to the north of the town. The highest
peak of this chain, which forms the watershed between the Orange
River and the streams flowing into the Indian Ocean, is the Com-
pass Berg, 7800 ft., the most elevated point in Cape Colony.
Owing to the plentiful supply of water available for
irrigation the town has a verdant and pleasing appearance.
Fruit and flowers of all kinds are produced in abundance,
and its numerous gardens, vineyards and orchards, forming
a veritable oasis in the dry Karroo Veld, have earned for
the town the appropriate name of the “ Gem of the Desert”.
CLIMATE—See Meteorological Table an “Notes on
Climate,” &c. '
The principal buildings are the churches, of which there
are eight, the most conspicuous being the Dutch Reformed
and the English. There are also a Town Hall and Col-
lege. The Public Library contains about 7000 volumes.
Many of the private houses are still built in the old-
_fashioned colonial style with heavily thatched roofs, gables
and stoep, which add to the picturesqueness, of the town
and are immeasurably better suited to the climate than the
corrugated iron abominations so frequent up country.
In the neighbourhood of the town facing the Spandau Kop is
the so-called VALLEY or Dnsom'rron, a confused grouping of
columnar basaltic pillars rising to a height of 300 to 400 ft. and at
Kruidfontein, 6 miles, are some sulphur springs (rheumatism)
(Hotel, 73. 6d.)
Carts leave for—
MURRAYBURG, Monday and Thursday, 11 hrs., no fixed fare.
Nnnsroonr, Monday and Thursday, 22 hrs., fare from Murray-
burg 20s. _
Cape Town may be reached thus, mid, Nelspoort in 42% hours.
Travelling by train all the way occupies about 60 hours.





173

Webster's Farm, where there is another favourite health resort
known as Ann's V1113, Hotel, is 18 miles beyond the Zuurberg,
2 hours from Commadagga Railway Station and 20 miles by road
from Somerset East (see Route XI.).
Leaving Coerney the line traverseshilly bush country,
very sparsely populated, the principal industry being cattle
and sheep farming. The three stations of Mimosa, (47
m.) Sandflats (54 m.) and Bellevue (60 111.) have no
villages attached. The scenery becomes more mountainous
and picturesque as the spurs of the Zxuurberg Mountains are
approached.
Alicedale (71% m.) is an important railway junction.
The line to Colesberg and Bloemfontein branches to the north-
ward, that to Grahamstown continuing in an easterly direction.
Refreshments may be had at the railway restaurant. There is a
small village near the station.
The country in the neighbourhood of the Grahamstown
line becomes more pastoral from this point and supports
large flocks of sheep. The hilly nature of the ground
necessitates many steep gradients, 1 in 40 being the maxi-
mum. Travelling is very slow, under 11 miles an hour
including stoppages, but the return journey is much more
expeditious.
Grahamstown, 106 m., 1800 ft., is reached in nine
and three-quarter hrs. from Port Elizabeth. Pop. 10,436, of
whom 6271 are of‘ European extraction.
Papers— The Penny Mail ; The Journal.
Hotels—Morris's (late Wood’s), 10s. 6d. ; Masonic, Cath-
cart’s, Railway, all 8s. 6d. , Murray’s Boarding House, 5s. ;
Sanatoriums—Morris’s (see Route XIII), 8s. 6d. ; Waterloo
House, one mile, 8s. 6d.
For Advertisements see pages E, 6, 8, 44 to 47.
Cabs ls. per mile per person.
Grahamstown is the metropolis of the Eastern Provinces and is
situated on the slopes of the Zuurberg Mountains, near the source
of the Kowie River.
Founded in 1812, it was made a military station in 1819 and
received a fresh accession of importance when the colonists of 1820
decided on making it their rallying point in the difficulties that
they foresaw must arise with the natives. For many years the
district was the scene of almost continual warfare, and there is
scarcely a hill, valley or krantz in the neighbourhood that has not


174
witnessed some fierce struggle between the sturdy settlers and their
savage opponents.
In 1819 the Kaffir Linksh, advancing under cover of the bush,
made a desperate attempt to rush the settlement with his 10,000
warriors, but the garrison of 320 men drove them back with great
loss. In 1834 the chief Hintsa, at the head of a large force, swept
over the border, murdered many of the settlers on the outlying
farms and destroyed hundreds of homesteads. There was severe
fighting again in 1846 principally among the defiles of the Amatola
Mountains when the natives under Sandilli were speedily forced to
submit; but three years later, on Christmas Eve, the same chief
again rose against the whites and massacred a number of farmers
and their families. He was not finally subdued until 1853 when the
removal of his tribe beyond the Thomas River may be said to have
relieved Grahamstown from all fear of actual invasion.
Public Buildings.—The substantial stone Gothic
Town Hall in the High Street'was completed in 1882 at
a cost of £18,000. The most striking feature is the square
clock-tower projecting on arches over the pavement, erected
to commemorate the heroism and sufferings of the settlers
of 1820 in their struggles with the natives.
The interior contains on the ground floor a fine Council Chamber
embellished with the portraits of ex-mayors and other local cele-
brities, a hall for concerts, dances, &c., and a PUBLIC LIBRARY of
about 12,000 vols. Ascending to the first story there is a brass
mural tablet to the memory of those who fell in the Basuto War
of 1880 and 1881.
The MUSEUM, on the first floor, the result of 40 years of intelli-
gent work, is in many respects the best in South Africa, and is now
under the direction of Dr. Schoenland. It is particularly rich in
Bushman and Kafiir ornaments and South African fossils, dried
plants and insects; the two last to be seen on application to the
curator. The collection of local snakes, in case 11, is admirably
preserved and many of the stuffed mammalia have been prepared
with great skill. In case 5 there is a fine example of the rare
black leopard. The groups of birds with nests should be noticed,
particularly the hornbills which are unique.
The Museum is open free to the public from 9 A.M. to 1 PM. and
from 2 to 5 P.M., except on Wednesdays when it closes at 1 P.M.
Grahamstown is the seat of two bishoprics, the Anglican
and the Roman Catholic, both of which denominations have
their Cathedral. The superintendency of the Wesleyan
body is also located here.
The Anglican Cathedral in High Street, is at present
being enlarged. The foundation stone was laid by Prince


175
Alfred during his visit to South Africa. The spire by Sir
Gilbert Scott is one of the highest in the Colony (180 ft.)
and contains a clock and chime of bells added at a cost of
£1,200. There is a small monument in the interior to
Colonel Graham after whom the town is named.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral situated a little to the left
of the High Street is in the Gothic style with battlements
to roof and towers.
Other Anglican churches are St. Bartholomew's,
near the Albany General Hospital, Christ Church in
the suburb of Oaklands, and St. Philip’s well
worthy of a visit. The Wesleyan Commemoration
Chapel in the High Street, the oldest place of worship in
the town, was erected by the early settlers. There are also
Baptist, Presbyterian and Salvation Army Chapels. At
West Hill is a Native Training Institute.
The town is one of the principal educational centres of
the Colony. In addition to St. Andrew's College, founded
in 1855, there are the Public School, St. Aidan’s College
(Roman Catholic) and the Cathedral Grammar School, all
for boys; with the Diocesan College, the Wesleyan High
School (erected at a cost of £10,000), St. Peter’s Home and
the Convent School, for girls.
Hospitals.—The Albany General Hospital is largely
supported by Government Grants. It is favourably situated
amidst the outskirts of the town and is surrounded with
pleasant grounds. Paying patients are taken at 10s. per
day including use of private room. There is a smaller
establishment for the use of the chronic sick. The Eastern
Province Lunatic Asylum is situated in the old barracks
just beyond the town. Both the above-mentioned establish-
ments receive patients from all parts of the Colony.
The Eastern District Court House, a somewhat top-
hcavy building of Grecian design, is in the High Street.
There are three resident judges.
The Albany Hall, provided with stage and scenery, is
sometimes used as a rink. There is a race course 1% miles
from the town.
The Botanic Gardens situated at the end of the
High Street are approached through the old Drostdy or


176
Court House, now devoted to the uses of the Public
School. Parliament sat here in 1864. Turning to the left
the Gardens of about 100 acres considered the finest in
South Africa are entered through iron gates. The fertile
soil, plentifully irrigated, is covered with a luxuriant
tropical and semi-tropical vegetation, and the natural
beauties of the valley have been carefully preserved in
laying out the grounds. The conservatory was erected to
the memory of Colonel Fordyce who fell in the Kafi'ir War
of 1851.
The Swimming Bath, 100 ft. by 54 ft., is situated at
the end of the garden ; entrance 6d.
The town water-supply is provided for by four reser-
voirs, situated at different points on the outskirts of the
town. Water is laid on to the houses in pipes. In addition
to the above sources of supply many houses are provided
with underground tanks. The neighbouring hills have been
well planted with fir and other trees.
As a place of residence, Grahamstown is perhaps only second to
the suburbs of Cape Town. The streets are wide and lined with
trees and, although few of the buildings have any pretensions to
architectural merit, the town generally is well and solidly built.
The surrounding country is all that the sportsman and lover of
nature can desire. Buck of various kinds, hares, pheasants, &c., are
found in the neighbourhood and, within a fewmiles, good fishing may
be had in the shady pools of the Kariega River.
The fact that the town is the seat of two Bishoprics and of
the Law Courts of the Eastern Provinces tends to give a higher tone
to society than is generally found in South African towns, and the
Library, Museum and Eastern Provinces Literary Society ofier
many advantages to visitors of intellectual tastes.
Living is cheap and good, one of the features of town life being
the early morning market which is always well stocked. Grahams-
town is one of the few places in the Colony where cheese is made.
As a health resort Grahamstown has a high reputation and has
been long recommended by the medical profession. The town is
sheltered from strong winds, which usually blow from the South-
West, and the rainfall, is distributed evenly throughout the 12
months. For fuller particulars see meteorological tables, etc.
Carts leave for—
KING \MLLIAM’S TOWN, Mondays and Thursdays at 6'30 A.M.,
82 m., 12 hrs., fare £2. 30 lb. baggage allowed, 6d. per lb. on
excess.
FORT BROWN, 18 m., 25- hrs., fare 15s., and Form‘ BEAUFORT,
50 m., 9t hrs., fare £1 10s., Wednesdays and Saturdays at 7 A-M.


178
ROUTE XI.
PORT ELIZABETH BY RAIL TO CRADOCK, COLESBERG,
BLOEMFONTEIN, JOHANNESBURG AND THE CHARTERED
COMPANY’S TERRITORY. '
For rail to Alicedale (pop. 328) 71% m. where a halt
is made for refreshments see p. 173. The line then
passes the eastern extremity of the Commadagga Range
through a thinly populated bush country to the station of
Commadagga 9% miles.
Carts leave here for Ann's Vina, (see p. 173) on Wednesdays
and Saturdays, four hours. This is also the nearest station for Big-
beek East.
The line now approaches the bank of the Great Fish
River along which it runs for many miles.
This river is one of the most considerable in Cape Colony and
drains over 12,000 square miles with an estimated annual discharge
of 51,724 million cubic feet. Its banks for many years formed the
boundary of the Colony, and the dense thickets in its neighbourhood
were for long the natural strongholds of the aggressive Kafiirs
dwelling on the east bank.
For historical particulars see “ History”.
Cookhouse, 126%} In. Hotel.
Carts for Somerset East . 25 hours ; 155. Daily.
,, Bedford . . 3} hours; Do.
,, Adelaide . . 6 hours ; Tues, Thurs, and Sat.
,, Fort Beaufort . 10 hours; Do.
,, Alice . . . 12} hours; Do.
King Wm‘s Town 18} hours; Do.
I,
Fares as far as Fort Beaufort subject to arrangement. Thence
to Alice, 10s. ; King William's Town, 30s.
Somerset East, 2400 it» POP- 2883-
Hotels.—Somerset, 8s. 6d.; Royal, 8s. 6d. English, Dutch,
Wesleyan and Presbyterian Churches. Public Library, 4000 vols.
Small Museum.
Paper.—S. E. Advertiser.
Prettily situated at the foot of the Boschberg Mountain whence
an excellent water supply is derived. It has a beautiful summer
climate and is surrounded by picturesque scenery, having a marked
advantage in this respect over the majority of the Karroo farming
centres. The Glen Avon waterfall, 300 feet in height, is four miles
from the village. Fruit of all kinds is abundant.


179
(flima'bQ—See Meteorological Table and “Notes on Climate,
Bedford (pop. 1157), 2450 feet above the sea (two hotels), is
situated near the foot of the Kaga Mountain (Library).
Paper.——Bedford Enlm‘pv'isc.
Adelaide (pop. 1200), 1950 feet (two hotels), a thriving little
town in the midst of mountainous country, is situated on the
Koonap River. The district is mainly pastoral. On the north of
the town the Great Winterhoek Mountain rises to a height of about
7800 feet.
Port Beaufort (pop. 1007), 1500 feet, is a village on the left bank
of the Kat River.
Paper.—Thc Advocate.
Hotels—Commercial; Masonic. Public Library.
The Amatola Mountains and forests in the neighbourhood were
the scenes of many conflicts with the natives during the frontier
wars.
Alice is a smaller village on the other side of the river (hotel)
1680 feet above the sea. The important mission station of Lovedale
can be visited from here.
Near Cookhouse Station the Fish River makes a bend of
20 miles of which the two ends are scarcely two miles apart,
the fall in the circuit being 200 feet. Mr. Gamble, C.E.,
has pointed out that a tunnel of three-quarters of a mile
through the nek would enable the water from the river to
be led on to 33 square miles of fertile ground for purposes
of irrigation.
Cradock, 2856 ft., 181% miles (pop. 4389).
Hotels: Victogia, Masonic, SouthflAfricank all 8s. 6d. ;
Crown, 6s. Mo r
Papers.-—Midlanrl News; Rcy/ister.
For Advertisements see pages 6, 8. 26, 27.
The principal buildings are the Town Hall, erected at a cost
of £6000 with a Library of over 3000'vols. and the Dutch
Church, costing £30,000. English, Wesleyan and Baptist
Churches and Roman services occasionally. Wesleyan
Chapel. The water-supply, which is sufficient for the re-
quirements of the town, has been brought in at a cost of
£22,000. There are several mineral springs in the neigh-
bourhood, both hot and cold, and Bathing establishments
have been erected. A park has been laid at the end of the
town. There are some good schools.
Cradock is a thriving business centre with an important trade in
wool, feathers and all kinds of local produce. Wheat and other


183
Bloemfontein is the capital of the Orange Free State. The
country north of the Orange was first visited by the Boer voortrek-
kers in 1835, but ten years elapsed before the patriarchal rule, exer-
cised by the chiefs of the different treks, developed into anything
resembling a constitutional Government. In 1848 Sir Harry Smith
proclaimed British sovereignty over the territory north of the
Orange River, and in the rising which followed the Boers were de-
feated at Bcomplaats. Six years later the country was peaceably
handed back to the original settlers, and their independence as a
Republic was recognised by the British Government. The Govern-
ment is carried on through a State President elected every five years,
assisted by the Executive Council and Volksraad, the latter consist-
ing of fifty-six members half of whom retire every two years. Under
the rule of the late Sir John Brand, who held office for twenty-four
years, the State enjoyed a long period of peace and prosperity.
Although for many years Bloemfontein has been the
capital of a prosperous Republic, the primitive habits of the
people have always prevented it from becoming more than a
quiet and pleasant village. It stands upon a plain sur-
rounded by low hills, rising to an elevation of from two to
three hundred feet, on one of which, to the south, is a small
fort erected by the British Government. Another elevation
to the north-east affords a fine view. Close to the fort is a
small monument erected in memory of those who fell
fighting the Basutos in 1865-68.
The town is regularly laid out, with a large market-square
in the centre on which the principal streets abut. The
houses are often surrounded by luxuriant gardens and
shaded by willows and gum trees. Many of the inhabitants
are English and the town is the seat of both Anglican and
Roman Catholic Bishoprics as well as being a centre of
Wesleyan activity.
Most of the Public Buildings are a happy combination of
red brick and of a peculiarly fine grained white stone quarried
in the neighbourhood.
The New Read Zaal, a beautifully designed building,
surrounded by doric columns with a domed tower, 90 feet
high and a handsome useful interior, has cost over £40,000.
The Old Raad Zaal, now used for Government offices,
is a substantial but plain edifice placed in a garden. The
tower commands a good view.
The Town Hall, which contains a large hall used for


184
concerts, &c., as well as the Municipal ofiices, is less striking,
but the Post and Telegraph Office at the lower end of
Market Square is most pleasing and a credit to the town.
Adjoining the Town Hall is a small Library.
The National Museum is in Douglas Street and is
partly located in one of the first buildings erected in the
town, which has been a Church, a Read Zaal and a Court
House and in which the British convention was signed.
There is a well arranged collection of fossils, minerals, birds, eggs
and ethnographical specimens, which have been classified and
catalogued by the painstaking custodian, Mr. Rossteucher. The
slabs of rock containing fossilized fish should be specially noticed.
The fish are mostly well provided with fins which would allow them
to travel over mud or borrow in it as rock fish do at the present
day. They have been classified as Seminotus Capensis. See
Quart. Jour. Gaol. 800., Vol. XLIV., Plate VI., figs. 1-5.
Other fish have been found near Rouxville, classed as Cleethro-
lepsis Extoni. Same volume and plate figures 6 and 7.
It would be a curious addition to the data bearing upon the
geological history of the Atlantic Ocean if similar deposits of fish
should be discovered on any of the table mountains of Central
Brazil.
The Residence of the President which cost £15,000 is
substantially built of stone.
The principal church is the Dutch Reformed with
two spires. Next in importance comes the Anglican
Cathedral with very good interior. There are also
Wesleyan, Lutheran, Roman and other churches, the last
with large convent.
For educational purposes there are Grey College, pre-
sented by Sir George Grey, and St. Andrew’s College for
boys, with the Ladies’ Government Institute and St.
Michael’s Home for girls.
About mile away on the east is the Government
Hospital and, on the opposite side of the town, the old
College Hospital. On the same side but further out is
the Lunatic Asylum.
For recreation there is a good cricket ground with pavilion
close to the town, and below the station a race course and
grand stand. There is also a swimming bath (6d.)
Water is brought by means of pipes from the spring known as
the Fountain, a supply being also held in reserve’ by means of a


185
large dam. Drinking water is carried from the fountain itself or
taken from wells. A new source of supply is however in course of
consideration and cannot long be delayed.
The CLIMATE of Bloemfontein has long been known for its salu-
brious properties and, in spite of the fatiguing coach journey formerly
necessary, it has for many years been visited by invalids in search of
health, The railwayhas already worked great changes and, in
facilitating the access, has increased its popularity as a resort for
visitors and as a place of residence. For further particulars see
Met. Tables and “ Notes on Climate, etc ”.
Carts run to—
DEWETSDORP, Tuesdays and Fridays, 3 P. M. 7 hours, fare £1 10 0
\VEPENER, ,, ,, 12 ,, 2 10 0
BUsHMAN’s KoP, ,, ,, 15¢ ,, 3 0 0
Rouxvrnnn, ,, ,, 22 ,, 4 0 0
ALIWAL N ., _ ,, ,, 25 ,, 5 0 0
Bosrror, Wednesdays, 5 A.M., 12 ,, 2 0 0
change for Kimberley into other carts for Hebron Road on the
Railway, 4% hours, fare £1. Return from Boshof on Saturday at
4 A.M.
LADYBRAND, Wed, 8 A.M., Sat, 4 P.M., 12 hours, fare £3 0 O
FICKSBURG, ,, ,, 2O ,, 4 10 0
returning from Ficksburg, Fridays, 10 A.M., Sundays, 8 P. M.
Boshof (pop. 332), has been strongly recommended as one of the
best health resorts in South Africa. It is dry and healthy and to a
certain extent a centre for business but visitors should write or wire
for accommodation (Commercial Hotel).
Ladybrand (pop. 868). Hotels: Free State ; Commercial; is most
highly spoken of by the medical faculty. Visitors are conveyed in
waggonettes over a road which needs some attention. It is small
and quiet, but prettily'situated in the midst of well cultivated land
and close to the mountains. The Plaat Berg, which overlooks the town,
allows of many excursions. A carriage can reach the summit in a
few minutes and can then drive about for some miles. The hole
known as the Ladybrand Gorge is a geological curiosity worthy of a
visit. A descent can be made, but lights should be taken. Very
good water is brought from the mountain and there is good fishing
in the Caledon River about 5 hour from the town. The cool
breezes from the Maluti Mountains which are visible from the top
of the Fleet Berg render the climate particularly bracing during
the summer months.
I‘ickgburg (pop. 1019 ; hotel) contains little of note, but, though
small, drives an extensive trade. The drive from Ladybrand is a pleas-
ant one and along a level road, with good views which extend as far
as the Maluti range of mountains in the heart of Basuto Land, the
scene of many a sanguinary fight in days gone by, and on which snow
sometimes lies for a day or two in the summer. On the Wonderkop,


186
a table mountain of the Wittebergen Range (500 ft. high), the
fossilised ooze, belonging to the early Mezozoic deposit, contains a
quantity of petrified fish, which apparently took refuge in the mud
when the sea was drained away from its ancient bed. Specimens
may be seen at the museum at Bloemfontein.
Leaving Bloemfontein the line passes through wide grassy
plains, where horses, cattle, and goats may be seen grazing
in great numbers.
Brandfort, 484 m., pop. about 370 (Brandford Hotel),
is a pretty little village with a good climate, whence carts
run to Bultfontein and Bloemhof.
Winburg Road, 513 m., is the station for carts to
Winburg daily, fare 12s. 6d ; and on Tuesdays, Thursdays
and Saturdays for Senekal, £2; Bethlehem, £3 10; and
Harrismith, £5. See also under Harrismith. For Winburg,
see page 213.
Kroonstad, 577 m., 4650 ft., pop. about 846 (Hotels:
Free State, Kroonstad, Mrs. Loxton’s), is a busy little town
and railway station in the midst of a community of wealthy
farmers. The climate leaves little to be desired, and there
is some good fishing in the Valsch River, which runs round
the town, and offers some pretty reaches of water for boating
when it is full. 7
The principal church is the Dutch Reformed standing in
the centre of the Market Square, but there are Anglican,
Wesleyan and others. Carts leave here for Klerksdorp on
Wednesdays and Saturdays, returning on Mondays and
Thursdays, 8 hours; fare £2. Private carts may be hired
to Kimberley, a journey of about 3 days.
Heil bron Road, 626 m., is the station for the coaches
to Harrismith. See page 212. For Heilbron, see page 213.
Passing Viljoen’s Drift and over a substantial iron bridge
a stoppage is made at— '
Vereeniging, 662 m., and the South African Republic
is entered. The town has so far little to recommend it;
coal, however, of good quality is being mined close by, and
the district seems likely to grow in importance.
The line gradually ascends to Germiston, 703 m.
(Elandsfontein Junction), where a branch railway runs
along the main Witwatersrand reef past Johannesburg,


187
713 m., to Krugersdorp, 7 35 m., on the west, and Boksburg
on the east. For particulars, see pages 221, 225.
Passing Irene, which is said to be the model farm of the
Transvaal, the scenery becomes more interesting, and at
741 m. the train runs into Pretoria. See page 217.
ROUTE XII.
CAPE TOWN 'ro EAST LONDON, on VIO'E VERSA, wnrn THE
CONNECTIONS BETWEEN BOTH um PORT ELIZABETH, &c.
For the lines of railway between the above or any other towns,
such as Kimberley, Vryburg, Bloemfontein, Aliwal North, &c., for
which no route is headed, refer in the Index to any station passed
and the proper pages can easily be found.
Cape Town to De Aar, 500 m., Routes 11. and IV.
De Aar to Naauwpoort, 69 m., Route XI.
Naauwpoort to Port Elizabeth, 269 m., Routes X. and XI.
Middelburg Road to Stormberg Junction, 83 m., Routes
XI. and XIV. '
Stormberg Junction to East London, 221 m., Route XIV.
ROUTE XIII.
FROM GRAHAMSTOWN TO KING WILLIAM’S TOWN.
80 miles by post cart, leaving Grahamstown every Monday and
Thursday at 630 A.M. ; fare £2 ; 30 lbs. luggage allowed free ; 6d.
charged for every lb. in excess.
The road crosses the railway and passes through grass
country to Bothas Hill, 2300 ft., and, with rocky scenery, to
Morris’ Sanatorium, 8s. 6d.—(see Advertisement, page
' 44)—(eight miles). Horses are changed one mile further
on, and the road, passing through beautiful scenery, descends
into Pluto’s Vale, and so on to Committee’s Drift and the
Fish River Hotel (24 miles), where horses are again changed.
The Fish River is crossed by a bridge and the road ascends
the hills on the opposite side of the valley to Breakfast Vlei -


188
Hotel (36 miles), where a halt is made for breakfast. From
this point another descent leads to the Keiskamma River
which is crossed at a drift, except when the river is high,
passengers then being ferried across in a boat.
Iquibeka, 52 m., hotel, is situated in an extensive
stretch of country forming some of the best pasturage in
the Colony and belonging to the chief Khama, to whose
father it was granted in return for his fidelity during the
Kaffir Wars. The last station Debe Nek (hotel) 64 miles,
is near the base of the Amatola Mountains, whose wooded
kloofs afford fine scenery and sport, and 16 miles farther on
a most beautiful drive ends at—
King William’s Town, 1400 it, pop- 7193.
Hotels—Commercial and Central, 8s. 6d. ;Royal, 7 s. 6d. ;
Fountain, 5s. 6d.
Papers—Klmfrurian ‘Watchman ; Cape Mercury.
For Advertisements, see pages 6, 8, 58.
Public Buildings.-—The Town HALL on the Market
Square, a plain stone building with a public hall used for
concerts, &c., behind which is the produce market.
The PUBLIC OFFICES and POST OFFICE, forming one build-
ing, are situated near the railway station ; the clock tower
and the brass tablet above the door are erected to the
memory of the Rev. John Brownlee, who founded the first
mission station in Kafi'raria on the site of the town. Ad-
joining this building is the PUBLIC LIBRARY containing
about 12,000 volumes, with a small MUSEUM on the second
floor, the key of which may be obtained from the librarian.
CHURcHEs—Leaving the railway station, ALL SAINTS
(Anglican) is on the left. Turning towards the town, first
the WESLEYAN ScHooL CHAPEL is passed, and then the
PRESBYTERIAN CHURcH, a fine stone building in the early
Gothic style but with a somewhat undersized steeple.
Further on to the right is the ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH,
by far the finest in the town and the only Church in the '
Colony of which all the windows are filled with stained
glass. The floor is of marble and the three altars are of
the same material. The ENGLISH CHURCH is at the
end of the road. There are also Lutheran and Baptist
Churches.


189
Other public buildings are the GREY HOSPITAL near the
station, prettily situated in shady grounds. This building
was erected by Sir George Grey, with the object of weakening
the power of the witch doctors by providing the natives
with proper medical attendance. The DALE COLLEGE is a
large building near the Public Offices for the education of
boys, above which are the Roman Catholic CoNvEN'r and
SCHOOLS. There is also an Anglican Grammar School. The
BOTANIC GARDENS and SWIMMING Barns are close to the
Buffalo River, in the neighbourhood of the bridge. The
Gardens with an area of about 15 acres are well stocked.
The WATER SUPPLY estimated at about 420,000 gallons per
diem, is obtained from the Buffalo River at a point about nine
miles above the town, the cost of the works having been
£35,000.
King William's Town, or as it is more frequently termed,
“ King," is situated on the left bank of the Buffalo River, at the
foot of the Amatola Mountains. The surrounding country is
diversified by pasture-land and forest, the latter, extending as far as
the Chumie River, being mostly confined to patches on the sides
and in the hollows of the mountains. The principal trees are the
sneezewood and yellow-wood, the latter forming about 50 per cent.
of the forests. Sneezewood is not found in the Knysna forests. In
point of durability it is almost without equal, and is neither
attacked by white ants nor by tcrcdo nan-alts; piles employed in
the Port Elizabeth Breakwater have remained untouched for over
20 ears.
lZrior to 1864 Kaffraria was a separate colony of which King
William’s Town was the capital. The town is still an important
commercial centre with a large native trade, largely derived from
the territories beyond the Transkei. The Katfir population of the
neighbouring districts amounts to 120,000 persons. Many of the
merchants here have houses in East London, and wool, skins and
other colonial produce are sent down by rail to the port 42 miles
distant. There are manufactories of waggons, carts, soap, candles.
leather and matches.
The town is well laid out and covers a large area of ground ; the
stores and houses are solidly built, for the most part of stone, many
of the shops having good frontages. Large numbers of German
settlers, located in the neighbourhood, are employed in market
gardening so that the town is well supplied with vegetables. The
large native population of the district is mainly engaged in cultiva-
ting cereals. Cattle and sheep farming are extensively carried on.
King is the head quarters of the well known Cape Mounted Rifles
(C. M. R.) and Cape Police.


190
Carts leave here for—
GRAHAMST’N, Wednedays and Saturdays, 60 A.M. 12 h.,fare £2 0 0
ALICE, ....... ..Mondays and Wednesdays, 6'0 ,, 7 ,, ,, 1 0 0
FORT BEAUFORT, ,, ,, ,, 8 ,, ,, 1 10 0
KOMGHA, Mondays, Wcdn's and Fridays, 45 m. 9 ,, ,, 1 0 O
TOLENI, ,, ,, 59 ,, 14%,, ,, 1 10 0
Burranwonrn,~ ,, ,, '71 ,, 16g ,, ,, 1 17 6
IDUTYWA, ,, ,, 90 ,, 23!‘ ,, ,, 2 0 0
UMTATA,‘ ,, ,, 127 ,, 35 ,, ,, 3 0 0
KOKSTAD, Mondays and Fridays only, 233 ,, 66 ,, 6 0 0
PIETERMARITZBURG (m Umzimkulu and Richmond Road) Mondays
and Fridays, 398 m., 90 hrs. (exclusive of 14 hours’ stoppage).
See page 205.
Carts run between Umzimkulu and Richmond Road daily, except
Sunday, 8 hours.
King William’s Town is connected by rail with the main
line of the Eastern system at Blaney Junction, 10 miles dis-
tant. This station is 31 miles from East London, 248 from
Aliwal North, the present terminus, and 868 by rail from
Cape Town.
ROUTE XIV.
EAST LONDON TO STUTTERHEIM, QUEENSTOWN ‘AND
ALIWAL NORTH, OB m'd BETHULIE TO BLOEM-
FONTEIN, THE TRANSVAAL, 8w.
East London, 150 ft., pop. 8858, 543 m. from Cape
Town by sea.
Papers—Baywatch ; Sfandawl.
Hotels.—%F,Q$man’s ', 9s. ; Ro al, 8s. 6d. ;
Phoenix, 8s. (1.; 'llway, 7s. 6d.; (building Bzach Hotel).
For Advertisements, see pages 6, 8, 20, 36 to 38.
Public Buildings.—~Mutual Hall, a plain two-storied
building on Market Square containing a concert room, a
Public Library and Municipal Offices. The public offices
are in a large embattled building near the Railway Station.
*Umtata to St. John’s River mouth. A branch cart meets the
Monday mail from King William’s Town at Umtata.
King William’s Town to St. John’s, 192 m., 45 hrs., about £5.
The carts for the Transkei may, if preferred, be taken from the
Kei Road Railway Station, which they pass three hours after leav-
ing King.


191
ChurCheS.—Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Lutheran, Wes-
leyan, Roman Catholic, (he.
The HOSPITAL, PUBLIC SoHooLs, OONVENT, and MASONIC
LODGE are grouped together in a high and healthy situation.
There are also two Clubs.
East London is situated at the mouth of the Buffalo River at
the terminus of the Eastern Railway system, and is a harbour of
considerable importance, ranking third among the ports of the
Colony. The works, which have cost over half a million, consist of
training-walls constructed to narrow the bed of the river and thus
augment the scour. These measures, in conjunction with dredging,
have met with considerable success; boats of 4000 tons can enter,
and it is hoped that the port will soon be available for the mail
steamers. The wharves are situated below the town, about one mile
from the mouth of the river, which is here 250 yards wide. An
extension of the railway runs down a steep incline to the river side.
The town was originally founded on the west bank and was named
Port Rex, but the construction of the railway terminus on the
eastern shore speedily transferred the majority of the population
to that side of the river, and the original site of the town is now
nearly deserted, save for the convict station and harbour works
establishment.
The eastern portion of the town, once known as Panmure,
is situated on high ground rising abruptly from the river,
and straggles over a large area. The appearance of the
streets, which are too largely composed of galvanised iron,
will be much improved when more trees have been planted
, and other municipal improvements have been carried out.
The neighbourhood of the railway station is mainly occupied
by the warehouses of the large Wholesale merchants, and
space is provided for the storage of great quantities of goods.
There is a race-course outside the town.
The CLIMATE is very healthy and the water supply good. The
inside harbour is absolutely protected from all winds.
The river scenery is very beautiful and has been compared to
that of the Dart at Dartmouth. There are athletic and boating
clubs and regattas are regularly held on the river. Small steamers
ascend for about four miles to Green Point on holidays and special
occasions. The public park near the centre of-the town covers
nearly 80 acres and is well laid out. Many people from the towns
connected by railway visit this popular sea-side resort on account
of the excellent bathing and beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood,
which make up for any deficiencies in the town itself. Favourite
excursions are Nahoon River, Orange Grove, Bats’ Cave, Cove Rock
and the Horse Shoe.


192
Rail to Aliwal North, &c.
Cambridge (pop. 993), 4 m., (hotel), a favourite pleas-
ure resort and suburb with large nursery gardens.
The line traverses picturesque country overlooking many
extensive valleys to Blaney Junction, 31% miles (for
King William’s Town, see p. 188).
Many German settlers are located in this part of the
colony and the unusual sight in South Africa of white
women labouring in the fields may frequently be observed.
Peelton, 37% m., is a small mission village on the left
of the line.
Kei Road, 46 m., (hotel), is the coaching station for
the Transkei and Pietermaritzburg, (see p. 190).
Kabusie, 59% m., is the nearest station to the village of
Stutterheim which is three miles away. Carts daily, fare
2s. 6d.
Stutterheim, 2700 ft., pop. 444 (Hotels :—Union; Red Prince;
Kelly's), is situated at the eastern base of the Amatola Moun-
tains in the midst of a fine sheep country. In addition to good
pasturage the district possesses large tracts of land which have
been laid out by the Government as forests. The village is
small and has no public buildings beyond small English, Roman
Catholic and Dutch Churches. It is frequently visited by invalids
from East London as a health resort, the surrounding scenery
being picturesque, particularly to the north-west where the moun-
tain sides are alternately covered with forest and pasture.
Dohne (hotel), 66 m., the next station, where large
stock fairs are held, is also three miles by road from Stutter-
heim.
Toise River, 7 8 111. (hotel), is picturesquely situated on
the slopes of a valley; a halt of 25 min.-is made here and
passengers by the mid-day train can obtain dinner by wiring
on in advance (no charge for wire).
Twenty miles further the line crosses the Thomas River
beyond which the Gaika rebels, under Sandilli, were removed
after the war of 1850—53.
Cathcart (pop. 600) 109 m., 3900ft. (hotels), was
founded in 1876 in the neighbourhood of the Windvogel
Mountains, which rise to a height of 5000 ft.
Tylden, 128 m., is situated on the Kei River which is
crossed by an iron bridge. (Refreshment bar and hotel.)


194
in the Colony. The summer heat is tempered by sudden and furious
thunderstorms; the winter months from May to September are dry
with a rainfall of under five inches and are considered “ admirable for
consumptive cases ” by Dr. Symes Thompson.
The WATER SUPPLY is accumulated in a reservoir capable of con-
taining 10,000,000 gallons, constructed at a cost of £10,000.
One of the finest mountain passes in the Colony is that known
as the KATBERG, which crosses the Great Winterberg between
Queenstown and Fort Beaufort. Since the construction of the rail-
way it has not been used for the conveyance of mails but carts may
be hired for the journey at either town.
Mail carts leave Queenstown for——
TARKASTAD,-...T11$S., Thurs. and Sat, 9 A.M., 6 hrs., fare 20s.
LADY FRERE,...TueS., Thurs. and Sun., 8 ,, 6 ,, ,, 15s.
GALA, .......... .. ,, ,, 3 n 13 1, n 305-
WHITTLES 1A,... Tuesdays and Fridays, 1 P.1u. 4 ,, ,, 20s.
r1‘he Cala carts run to Maclcar on Thursdays and Kokstad on
Sundays. See pages .
For further details of the mail service rid Maclear to KOKSTAD
see page 199.
Gala, is a township in Tembuland, 63 m. from Queenstown
(hotel .
Lally Prere (pop. 260) is the seat of magistracy for the division
of Glen Grey. The township was laid out ten years ago and is fairly
well supplied with water (hotel).
Dordrecht, 5500 ft., 46 m. from Queenstown (pop. 989).
Hotels—Central; Masonic; Woodhouse, 10s.
English and Dutch Churches. One of the most elevated towns
in the Colony on‘ the north slope of the Stormberg, with a healthy
climate and cold dry winters. It is frequently visited by those in
search of health. ‘ The Indwe Coal Mines are about twenty miles
from the town. It is proposed to connect these mines by a branch
leaving the Eastern Railway system at a point undecided.
Leaving Queenstown the line passes Sterkstroom~
(hotel ; churches ; whence carts for Dordrecht on Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays, 7 hours, fare 30s.)+-and ascends
the precipitous Stormbergen, with splendid views of Bush-
man’s Hoek and the spreading plains below.
Coal which seems to have been washed away lower down
is now constantly met with, and pit mouths are being
opened in all directions.
Cyphergat, 5300 ft., 204 m., and Molteno, 5130
ft., 210 m. (refreshment room ; pop. 596; hotels: Joplin’s,
Central), are coaling centres.
} For Advertisement, see page 8.


195
At 221 m. Storlnberg Junction, where the line branches
off to Middelburg Road for Cape Town and Port Elizabeth,
ilzc. See page 180.
Burghersdorp, 46-50 ft., ‘243% m., pop. 1279.
Hotels.—Harman’s; Royal, 10s.
The town is built in a sheltered valley near the banks of
the Stormberg Spruit, and has been recommended for invalids
on the ground that it is within easy access of higher and
lower plateaus, thus allowing of a ready change of climate
when desirable. The summer months are hot and relaxing,
but the rest of the year is delightful. There are Dutch,
English, Roman Catholic and Wesleyan Churches, and a
small Library. Water is obtained from wells.
Three miles farther on is Albert Junction, where the line
for Bloemfontein, &0., branches ofl' m'd
Bethune, 289 In. 3 pop. 564 (whites 260).
Hotel ; Dutch and English Churches; Library.
A small town and a business centre in the O. F. S. and
3 m. from the Orange River, which is here crossed by two
substantial bridges. Coal is found in the neighbourhood.
Carts leave for—-
SMITHFIELD, Tuesdays and Saturdays at 9 A.M.
and go on to
ROUXVILLE, Thursdays and Sundays at 6 A.M.
smithfield is the chief town of the Caledon division in the Free
States (hotel; library; pop. 558 (whites 231)). The O. F. State
Trunk Line is joined at Springfontein, 313 111. See Route XI.
Aliwal North, 4350 ft., 280 m., pop. 2056. Small
well laid out park ; race course.
Papers.~-N0rthern Post ,- Border News.
Hotels—Criterion, 10s. ; Victoria, 7s. 6d.
For Advertisements, see pages 6. 8, 10, 13, 20.
The town (Dutch, English and Roman Churches, and a
good Library) is situated on the Orange River which here
forms the boundary between the Orange Free State and the
Colony; the river is spanned by the Frerc Bridge, 860
feet in length, erected at a cost of £59,900, which forms
an important means of communication between the two
countries and British Basutoland.
One and a half miles from the town are the celebrated


196
Aliwal Sulphur Springs with a temperature of 95°, which,
added to the salubrious and bracing climate, attract invalids
from all parts of the country. These mineral springs have been
found most efficacious in rheumatic and cutaneous complaints.
There are swimming baths for both sexes, and it is intended
shortly to establish a sanatorium under municipal control.
Dr. Hahn, Government Analyst, states that a gallon of
water contains-—
741 grains Carb. Lime.
1‘95 ,, Sulph. Magnesia.
3'24 ,, Ammonia.
0‘95 ,, Potash.
8'10 ,, Chloride Calcium.
61'35 ,, Common Salt.
1‘04 ,, Silica.
5'22 ,, Carbonic Acid Gas.
The locality is considered highly favourable for the relief
of consumption, and Dr. Symes Thompson calls attention to
it as one of the most valuable resorts for phthisical patients.
The winter climate is dry, bright and crisp and occasionally
severe frosts are experienced. The summer temperature is
below that of other towns in the same neighbourhood. The
town is well laid out and the waste-water from the springs
flows through the streets in paved furrows, the plentiful
supply obtainable being at once patent to the eye in the
trees along the side walks. (A meteorological table is given.)
There is good fishing and shooting to be had (birds).
Carts leave for—
LADY GREY, Thurs. 6 A.M., Sun. 7 A.M., 6 hrs. £1 0 0
BARKLY EAST, ,, ,, l4 ,, 2 10 0
HERSCHEL, ,, ,, 7 ,, 1 15 0
MAFETENG (Basutoland), Sunday 7 A.M., 15 ,, 2 10 0
MORIJA Do. ,, ,, ,, 4 0 0
MASERU Do. ,, ,, 23 ,, 5 O O
ROUXVILLE, Thurs. 8 A.M., Sun. 8 AM., 315 n 0 l5 0
BUsHMAN’s KoP, ,, ,, 10 ,, 2 0 O
WEPENER, ,, ,, 13% ,, 2 10 0
DE WETSDORP, ,, ,, 18 ,, 3 10 O
BLOEMFONTEIN, ,, ,, 25 ,, 5 0 0
1 0 O
JAMESTOWN,. . Sunday7A.M., . . 7 ,,


198
The area is 10,293 square miles, and forms an irregular
oval between Cape Colony, the Orange Free State and Natal.
A number of the natives work in the mines at Kimberley
and in the Transvaal, on account of the higher wages to be
obtained there.
KAFFRARIA.
Kaff'raria, the stretch of country from the Kei River to
the Natal borders, has an area of about 18,000 square miles,
and a white population of about 10,000. The native popu-
lation is far more dense, numbering over 360,000 exclusive
of Pondoland.
The three territories are the TRANSKEI, TEMBULAND and
GRIQUALAND EAST, divided into 15 districts, one of which
is situated at the mouth of the St. J ohn’s River in Pondoland.
The whole country presents a varied aspect of mountain,
forest and plain; the northern range of the Drakensberg
or “ Quathlamba ” Mountains which, in the language of the
country, means “heaped up and jagged,” rises in some parts
to a height of nearly 10,000 feet and forms a natural
boundary between Kaffraria and Basutoland; innumerable
streams run down their sides in a succession of cascades and
unite on the more level ground below into rivers of consider-
able size, the principal of which are the Bashee, Umtata and
St. J ohn’s. The soil is fertile and, water being plentiful, is
capable of producing large crops of cereals, &c., and feeding
quantities of stock; the forests are located principally on
the coast lands.
There are no railways at present in this part of the
country, but a line is to be built from the port at the mouth
of the St. J olm’s River to Maclear which will open up
what is undoubtedly one of the richest portions of South
Africa.
The principal town of Griqualand East is Kokstad,
4300 ft., with a population of ‘2062; the water supply is
good and the climate healthy (three hotels).
There are also hotels at all the principal stations on the
mail cart roads.


199

The port of St, J ohn's (hotel) is situated amidst some
of the most charming scenery in South Africa. The well-
known “ Gates ” of the river are formed by precipitous cliffs
which rise on each side to a height of 1200 feet and are
clothed with forest down to the water's edge. The river is
navigable for small boats for about 12 miles and excellent
fishing is obtainable. The population at present does not
much exceed 200, but will no doubt rapidly increase, as its
situation midway between the ports of East London and
Durban must eventually secure to it the greater part of the
trade of Kafi'raria. Steamers occasionally visit the port (fare
20s from Natal or East London) and the sea route is prefer-
able to the fatiguing overland journey (for which see pp. 190).
Umtata, (hotels), the capital of Tembuland, is the
Bishopric of Kaffraria.
Butterworth (hotel: Bungalow) is the capital of the
Transkei.
Meteorological returns are at present scanty from this‘
part of the country. The table of temperatures, ‘inc. (see
page 65), taken at Umtata (pop. 1433) although somewhat
incomplete, may be considered as fairly representative, the
town being situated at a middle elevation between the coast
and highland districts.
The Tsn‘z». WA'I‘ERFALL, the highest in Cape Colony, is
situated near the Mission Station of Shawberry, 32 miles on
the main road from Umtata to Mount Frere. The river falls
over an almost vertical precipice of 375 feet.
For the principal coach routes see page 190.
Another mail service from Queenstown to Kokstad—
Leaves Queenstown,...Tues., Thurs. and Sun.,... 8 AJI.
Arrives Lady Frere,... ,, ,, 2 RM.
,, Gala, ........... .. ,, ,, 9 ,, halt.
Leaves ,, ........... ..Thursday and Monday”, 8 A.M.
Arrives Slang River,... ,, ,, NOON.
,, Ugie, .......... .. ,, ,, “.10 l‘.M. halt.
,, Maclear, ...... .. Tuesday 8 A.M.
,, Mount Fletcher, ,, 8 P.M. halt.
,, Matatiele,...,. Wednesday 3 ,,
,, Kokstad, ...... .. Thursday 2 A.M.
Tuesday cart only goes to Gala; Thursday only to Nuclear; for
beyond Kokstad refer under King William's Town and Richmond
Road. ‘


200
NATAL.
Durban (pop. : whites, 13,293 5 natives, 7059 ; Indians,
7140 ; total, 27,492): distance from England by sea, 6800
miles; from Cape Town, 823 miles.
Papers—Advertiser; Mercury.
Hotels—In the town: Royal, 10s. 6d. ; Beach, 10s. 6d;
Alexandra, 10s. 6d. ; Metropole, 9s. 6d. ; Marine, 10s. ;
Belgrave, 8s. 6d. ; Clarendon, 8s. 6d. ; Prince of Wales,
6s. 6d. 011 Berea Ridge: The Grand, 10s. 6d.,' Musgrave
Road, Berea, the Fairholme, 8s.
Boarding Houses.—Saker’s, Aliwal House, Victoria, Castle,
Fern Villa, Oriental—about 5s. to 6s. ,' all in the town.
At Umgeni River (four miles), Queen’s Bridge Hotel, a
favourite resort.
TEAMS run from the Point and from Field Street to the Berea;
charge 3d. per stage. Those taking more than one journey will
find it cheaper to take a shilling ticket. CABS, one adult ls. per
mile; additional passengers 6d. each; baggage free, 28 lbs. JIN-
RICSHAWS, 3d. to 2s. according to distance; double at night.
The POST and TELEGRAPH OFFICE is situated in the Town Hall.
For Advertisements, see pages D, 6, 8, 10, 28 to 36, 58, 76.
Public Buildings.—The TOWN HALL in West Street
is a strikingly handsome building of the Corinthian order
and covers nearly 4000 square yards. Commenced in 1881
it was finished in 1885 at a cost of £50,000. The clock
tower is 164 feet high and, when viewed from a distance, is
the most conspicuous object in Durban. The Town Hall
contains most of the public offices, including Postal and
Telegraph, a fine Concert Hall, and upstairs a MUsEUM
with many objects of interest, including Cetewayo’s cooking
pots and pap dish and a fine collection of local butterflies
and moths, lately exhibited at the London Colonial Exhibi-
tion. The Museum is assisted by a Government Grant of
£300 per annum.
Opposite the Town Hall is a one-storied building con-
taining the PUBLIC LIBRARY and READING RooM.
Behind the Town Hall is the MARKET, built at a cost of
£5,800, behind which again is the RAILWAY TERMINUS,
an unsightly building which is being replaced by a more


.wceksuswwd ..EEH Hews‘ g ..en
63E..." 6U an .FoQ nommflmw mqowfloq

1.8 .S.| an» an
/ \ /
....xuasz Edam mun-(roam. .5!“ floicnmoafiwbagwaww
on at On u a. a
Egan-mam
3 s a. <5 ....s
.VZQEZOHEOHW





201
fitting structure. The Volunteer Drill Hall in West Street
is a large iron building with a handsome red-brick facade.
Close by are the Public Swimming and Turkish Baths,
and a few yards off the magistrates’ offices. The Royal
Theatre, at the upper-end of West Street, has a neat
interior and is furnished with two galleries. The HOSPITAL,
near the Point, can take in some 135 patients.
Farms and GARDENs—Opposite the Town Hall are the
PUBLIC GARDENS, an open space laid out with trees and
shrubs in the centre of which is a handsome fountain.
ALBERT PARK, to the left of West Street after passing the
Roman Catholic Church, is well timbered and contains a
cricket ground and pavilion; a fine view over the harbour
is obtainable.
The BOTANIC GARDENS are best visited by taking the tram
to the end of the Botanic Garden Road (10 minutes). The
Gardens contain a magnificent collection of flowering shrubs
and trees, and are more tropical in character than anything
to be seen in the Cape Colony.
There is a race course on the Umgeni side of the town.
CHURcHEs—There are Anglican, S. African, Presbyterian,
Wesleyan, Baptist, Swedenborgian and Roman Catholic.
The last is a picturesque building with a heavy tiled roof,
admirably adapted to the climate, but the interior is marred
by the flat ceiling.
There are also two Clubs and a Seaman’s Institute.
The WATER SUPPLY is derived from the Umbilo and Umlaas
Rivers at points several miles from town.
The HARBOUR Worms were commenced in 1857, with a view to
the removal of the bar which obstructs the entrance of the port,
and the deepening of the water in the bay itself. The bar, caused
by the ebb tide working on the sandy bottom of this part of the
coast, is perpetually altering in shape and heavy seas have always
a tendency to lessen the depth of water. The principal works are
the Innes Breakwater and the N urth Pier; the former extends from
the foot of the bluff to a distance of 1500 feet into the sea, exclusive
of shore-Works, and overlaps the end of the North Pier which starts
from the extremity of the Point.
The dificulties with which the engineers have had to contend
are very great, and local opinion differs as to whether the best means
have been employed to obtain their object. The average depth on
the bar for 1892, reduced to low water at ordinary spring tides, was


202

~
13' 8" against 10’ 9” in 1891. The occasions on which the bar is
impassable are now rare and never more than very temporary. The
average rise of the tide is 4’ 11” and of spring tides 5’ 9". The
greatest draught of any vessel entering during 1892 was 19’ 9".
The inner basin covers about five square miles ; much of this however
is shoal water, but the five dredgers employed are steadily increasing
the available area and, among other improvements, are opening a
channel to the upper town for vessels of light draught. Wharf and
harbour accommodation is provided and is being added to, the largest
vessel berthed as yet being the Dunrobin Castle with a length of 342
feet. The total cost up to the present of all works and buildings
connected with the port exceeds three-quarters of a million sterling.
During 1892, 139 steamers, 126 sailing vessels and 9 men-of-war
entered the harbour, and 139 more discharged their cargoes by
means of tugs and lighters at the outer anchorage, making a total
of 612,000 tons.
On the summit of the Bluff, which may be visited by steam
launches (6d. each way), are a LIGHTHOUSE and a small battery.
The principal SUBURB is on the BEREA, a small range of hills
rising behind the town, of which the slopes are covered with villas
and gardens. Both tram lines run to the summit from whence fine
views over the town and harbour are obtainable. There is a small
public park.
The CLIMATE, although extremely healthy, is sometimes oppres-
sively hot during the summer months, via, from October to March,
when the average maximum temperature reaches 85° and the
minimum 64°. From April to September the climate is pleasanter,
the mean maximum for these months being 78° and the minimum
57°. The average summer humidity is 76 per cent. and that of
the Winter months 74°.
The Average Rainfall for the last 10 year is as follows :—
January 3'81 in. July 0'67 in.
February 345 ,, August 2'18 ,,
March 307 ,, September 236 ,,
April 2'24 ,, October 3'60 ,,
May 1'52 ,, November 3'61 ,,
June 048 ,, December 2.95 ,,
or a total average for the year of 29'94 inches.
The town and suburbs rank among the most beautiful, pleasantest,
best-regulated and most enterprising of any in South Africa.
Fruit is very plentiful during the summer months and advantage
is taken of the moist heat of the climate to produce many varieties
almost unknown in Europe. Among these are the mango, rose-
apple, pine-apple, banana, custard-apple. papau, guava, grenadilla,
amatungulu, loquat, shaddock and naartje.
Durban is the terminus of the Natal Railway system and the
junction from whence the two short coast lines run to Verulam,
19 miles to the north-east, and Isipingo, 11 miles to the south-
west.


204
marble quarry where good marble, varying in colour from
white to black, can be obtained and floated down to the
port. Good lime is also made, and a little Portland cement
has been produced. Post carts run daily from Isipingo to
both Umzinto and Port Shepstone.
Koktad and the main road to the Cape Colony may
be reached either m'd Ixopo and Umzimkulu or viii Port
Shepstone and Harding.
ROUTE XVII.
DURBAN TO PIETERMARITZBURG, HOWICK, LADISMITH,
CHARLESTOWN, TRANSVAAL, &c.
The main line from Durban to Pietermaritzburg skirts
the low swampy ground on the shores of the harbour to
CONGELLA (2% miles), where the British were repulsed by
the Boers in the early days of Natal history. From this
point the line rises through hilly and partially wooded
country to BELLAIR (6% m.) where many suburban villa-
residences are situated.
Pinetown, 17 m., 1125 ft., is a small village situated
on a sandy plain just beyond the limits of the coast belt. The
climate is drier than that of Durban (two hotels).
At MARIANHILL, 4 m., is a Trappist Monastery and
Kafiir Mission with Convent and Schools attached. The
property is 12,000 acres in extent, eleven other dependent
missions with 72,616 acres of land have been established in
different parts of the country.
The line ascends through mountainous country affording
many fine views to BOTHAS HILL (31 m.) where refresh-
ments are obtainable.
CAMPERDOWN, 47 m., is a small village with about .200
inhabitants, the centre of a farming district.
RICHMOND ROAD, 59 m., 3006 ft., is an important posting
station whence the overland mails run through the Transkei
to the Cape Colony.
Qarts leave daily, except Sundays, for Umzimkulu m'd Richmond,
15 miles, and Ixopo, see page 190.


207
Post carts leave Pietermaritzburg daily excepting Sundays for
Grey-town (42 miles distant, time seven hours, fare 20s.) a con-
siderable village in a _shcep<farming and wattle growing district, and
on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 7 A.M. to Edendale, 7
miles, an old established mission station. Boston and Bulwer’
6300 feet, 8i hours, the centre of a large farming district and seat
of magistracy (2 hotels).
The railway runs north through the suburbs of the
capital, many fine views of the town and neighbourhood
being obtained from the line.
Howick, 88 m., 3439 ft., close to the falls.
Hotels—Castle, 8s. 6d. ; Howick, 7s. 9d. 5 Station, 8s. 6d.
For Advertisements, see pages 49, 50.
Court House, Public Library, English, Wesleyan, and
Presbyterian Churches. Rifle Association.
Howick, 2 miles from the station, is much resorted to by
health and pleasure-seekers, the great attraction being the
magnificent FALLS or THE GREAT UMGENI. The river leaps
in one mass over a sheer precipice of trap rock, 364 feet
high or double the height of the Niagara Falls, and, when
swollen by rain, is one of the most imposing waterfalls in
the world. Eight miles away are the equally splendid
Kar Kloof falls, a series of cascades where the water descends
some 350 feet in all. In the neighbourhood is an extensive
forest and timber industry.
The scenery along the banks of this beautiful river from this
point downwards is of the most varied and striking nature. Leaping
over snags and rocks it hurries through the romantic gorges at the
base of Table Mountain and finally emerges on the rocky wilderness
of the Inanda, which has been compared to the Felsen-meer, near
the Rhine Valley. Trout have been put in above the falls.
The winter CLIMATE of Howick is particularly healthy and
bracing, and in summer it is resorted to by dwellers on the coast on
account of its coolness. Spring is usually ushered in by westerly
gales followed by rain. From the nature of the soil dust storms are
seldom experienced.
Hilton Road is the station for Hilton College, a large
educational establishment.
Nottingham Road, 111 miles, 4807 feet, is another
summer resort. Orwin’s Hotel, near the station, 8s. 6d.;
Futcher’s farm, 3 miles away, same charge.
M001 RIVER STATION (hotel), 125 m. Also a summer
resort.


208
Estcourt, 146 m., 3833 ft. Hotels: Alice Bridge;
Plough ; Railway.
Estcourt, the seat of magistracy for Weenen County, is a
place of considerable trading importance. The town is
situated near the junction of the Bushman’s and the Little
Bushman’s River, the former of which is crossed by a rail-
way bridge of five spans.
The CLIMATE is considered one of the finest in Natal, being
wonderfully dry and invigorating and free from dust. The neigh-
bourhood abounds in charming scenery. The district is mainly
pastoral, stockbreeding being carried on on a large scale.
The little village of WEENEN, 16 miles distant, lies in a deep cup-
shaped valley and derives its name, signifying “weeping," from
a melancholy incident connected with one of the bloodthirsty Zulu
raids which occurred during the early settlement of the Colony by
the Dutch.
Another road to the north-west divides at the Tugela River, and
leads into the Orange Free State by both the Oliviers Hoek and
Bezuidenhout Passes.
Colenso is a small village (hotel) 173 m. from Durban
where a bridge crosses the Tugela, along side of which the
line runs, commanding a good view of the rapid and rock-
broken stream.
Ladismith, 189 m., 3284 ft. (pop. 2069).
Hotels—Railway, 8s. 6d.; Royal; Crown, 8s. 6d. Small
Library.
For Advertisements see pages, 10, 28, 31.
Ladismith, laid out on a slope near the Klip River, at a
distance of about 30 miles from the foot of the Drakensberg
Range, is sheltered from severe winds and enjoys a dry and
bracing winter climate, but the summer heat is frequently
oppressive. It has been recommended as a place of resi-
dence for patients suffering from phthisis, bronchitis and
asthma. There are the usual churches, dzc.
Till recently Ladismith was the farthest point in
Natal which could be reached by train and was conse-
quently the starting point for all coach or wagon traflic
with the interior. The great increase in transport created
by the sudden development of the Transvaal gold fields
has caused the line however to be pushed forward as far
as Harrismith, in the Orange Free State, on the west,


210
The CLIMATE is dry and healthy and the town is well pro-
tected from the westerly winds.
Ingogo, 283 m., 4064 ft., is the nearest station to the
Schnins Hoogte battle field. The train crosses the Ingogo
River and ascends the Ingogo heights by zig-zags, passing
the Ingogo battlefield. It skirts the base of Majuba Hill
and almost crosses the footpath from Neill’s house, whence
the British troops started for the top and where the pre-
liminary treaty of peace was afterwards signed. Rounding
Majuba Hill, General Colley’s graxre may be seen on the
left, and shortly after Laing’s Nek and Colonel Deane's
grave are passed on the right, the graves of the soldiers
being scattered about and surrounded by low walls. A
tunnel is next passed through and Charlestown is reached.
Charlestown, 5386 ft., 304 m., in the extreme north
of Natal territory, is now the terminus of the railway and a
considerable forwarding centre. The coaches which lately
started from Newcastle are now despatched from here.
For particulars see p. 211.
For Advertisements see pages 10, 25, 28, 76.
Hotels.—Belgrave ; Royal ; Central, all about 10s.
Between the town and Majuba Hill, which is .4 miles
distant, is the site of the Boer camp, the slopes which they
ascended being in full view. The summit can be reached
in 2 hours on foot.
Leaving Charlestown the coach runs across the frontier
into the Transvaal at Coldstream, passes through——
Volksrust, 2 miles, a stopping place for Boer trans-
port waggons, and, after changing horses several times,
arrives at—
Standerton, 5050 ft., 45 m., National Hotel. A
small town with a good church which was the scene of
much movement during the Boer war. The Vaal is here
crossed by a fine bridge built in 1891. The night is spent
here.
For Advertisement see page 76. .
The next day the country gradually becomes prettier,
‘ The Grange and several other well arranged farms
being passed.
Heidelberg, 5420 ft., 105 in. (Hotels: Royal and


211
Waverley), is a pretty little town with a good church and
seems likely to become a centre for gold mining industry,
as new claims continue to be pegged out in the vicinity.
For Advertisements see pages 10, 28, 76.
The drive between here and Johannesburg passes few
places of any interest; the tall chimneys of the various
mining companies become however more frequent until, at
130 m., Johannesburg is entered, see page 221.
Coaches leave Charlestown :—
For Johannesburg daily (in connection with the mail train)
will Volksrugt. 2 m.; Standerton, 45 In. (stop night); The
Grange, 90 111-; and Heidelberg, 105 111-, Johannesburg, 130 111-;
- occupying about 20 hours actual travelling.
Fare £4 10s., or rail and coach from Durban (48 hours) 1st class
£7 12s. 6d., 2nd £6 lls. 8d.
To Barberton—
Leaving Mondays and Thursdays, arriving on Wednesdays and
Saturdays via Rolfontein, 30 m- ; Ermelo, 62 nt; Lake Chrissie,
84 m.; Helvetia, 122 111.; Barberton, 167 Hi. Return coaches on
Mondays and Thursdays.
Fare £6 10s., or rail and coach from Durban, 1st class£9 12s. 6d.,
2nd £8 11s. 8d.
To Bremersdorp (Swaziland) and Embekelweni—
The Barberton coach is taken as far as Lake Chrissie, whence
carts leave for Darkton and Swaziland on Tuesdays returning on
Mondays. Fare £37 105.
To L enburg—
The arberton coach is taken as far as Helvetia whence a coach
runs to Lydenburg on Tuesdays and Fridays returning on Mondays
and Fridays, time 8 hours.
Fare £6, or by rail and coach from Durban, 1st class £9 2s. 6d.,
2nd £8 1s. 8d.
Emelo is a nice little village with a fair church. It is the
centre of a coal district and there are warm mineral springs in the
neighbourhood (2 hotels).
I‘or Advertisements see pages 7, 10.
Rolfontein is not much more than a wayside hotel and the
residence of one or two farmers.
Lake Chrissie (hotel), is remarkable as being one of the very
few lakes to be found in South Africa. The area of water is some
half a square mile.
Helvetia, is simply a coaching junction with a house or two.
Darkton is a spot whence carts may be taken for Steynsdorp
by those who wish to go there.
Bremergdorp is the white township and Embekelwenj the
King's Kraal; one being the centre of Swaziland as regards trade
and the other the centre as far as government is concerned.


212
ROUTE XVIII.
DURBAN T0 LADISMITH, HARRISMITH AND JOHANNES-
BURG, &c., VIZ1 HEILBRON ROAD OR TO BLOEMFON-
TEIN V1.1 WINBURG ROAD.
From Durban to Ladismith see Route XVII.
Leaving Ladysmith the line runs through wide spreading
pasture land with occasional Kafiir Kraals and their
attendant mealie patches. The last part of the ascent is
accomplished by means of three zig-zags, and Van
Reenen, 5500 ft., at the summit of the pass is reached,
this part of the Drakensberg Range exhibiting the same
formation of isolated table land and almost faultless sedi
mentary strata which is so particularly a feature of the
uplands of South Africa. The scenery, although very fine
is tamer than might be expected from the importance of a
watershed which divides the Indian and the Atlantic
Oceans.
A little beyond Van Reenen the frontier is passed and
the Orange Free State is entered, luggage being examined
at—
Harrismith, 249% m., 5250 ft., pop. 1660 (whites,
942), 200 m. from. Bloemfontein; 50 m. from Bethlehem;
160 m. from Winburg Road ; 50 miles from Reitz ; 125 m.
from Heilbron Road, and 130 m. from Ladybrand.
Hotels—Central ; Railway ; Grosvenor ; Commercial ,-
Harrismith, all 10s. per day or 2 gns. a week.
For Advertisements see pages 8, 35, 48.
Harrismith is one of the most important trading centres of the
Free State, the present terminus of the railway, one of the leading
health resorts of South Africa and is largely resorted to by residents
in Natal. In spite of the proximity of the mountains the climate
differs but little from that of the Free State generally, that is to say
the air is rarefied and bracing, and the proportion of sunshine very
large. The nights during the winter (May—November) are very
cold, especially when the wind blows off the snow covered
mountains.
The situation is decidedly good and a splendid supply of water is
brought by iron pipes from the Plaatberg or Table Mountain
(native Thaba Ncho) which overlooks the town from a distance of
about 3 m. The summit can be reached in about an hour on
horseback and commands extensive views. There are several


214
Mosilikatse who had fled northward from the fury of the
great Chaka. Mosilikatse in his turn came into conflict
with the Trek Boers and, with the bulk of his followers, was
finally driven across the Limpopo. Here he founded the
Matabele nation who have preserved the old Zulu habits of
bloodshed and massacre without interference until the recent
advent of the Chartered Company. The large stretch of coun-
try south of the Limpopo, thus left in the undisputed posses-
sion of the Boers, fell into the three Republics of Potchef-
stroom, Lydenburg and Utrecht which were not finally united
under one Government until 1860 (for further particulars of
history, see references in the index).
It is not possible to accurately estimate the population of
the country as the recent census is manifestly incorrect, but
the white population probably exceeds 140,000 of whom half
are estimated to be of English origin. The number of natives
is still more uncertain but the mean estimate is about half a
million.
The great bulk of the white population is settled on the
healthy plateaus to the south of the watershed and much
of the extreme north, where during the summer months
fever is very prevalent, is almost uninhabited save by
natives.
The scenery is as a rule uninteresting, and, although the
monotony is broken by several ranges of wild and rugged
mountains, the landscape is seldom relieved by lake or river,
whilst large timber or forest verdure are very scarce in the
better known districts of the south.
The vast mineral wealth which abounds in all directions is
only now beginning to reveal itself. Scarcely a metal can be
mentioned which has not been discovered within the territo-
ries of the Republic, but so far gold and coal are alone largely
worked. The yearly output of the former from the Witwa-
tersrand Reefs alone forms a very large proportion of the
yield of the whole world. Silver is being worked in the
neighbourhood of Pretoria and exceedingly rich silver and
copper ore is produced from the Albert Mine, 40 miles to
the north-east of that town. Extensive copper deposits
exist in the north which have up to the present been
worked only by Kafiirs.


216
Farms would probably have to be rented, and, if any
great measure of success was looked for, irrigation works
must be undertaken. The future of gold mining is now
sufficiently certain to ensure a good and growing market.
The land is undoubtedly fertile but the farmer must be pre-
pared to suffer losses from hail, frost, &c.
Several industries, including the manufacture of cement, machine-
made bricks, dynamite, gunpowder and spirits, are established in the
neighbourhood of Pretoria, all working as monopolies under conces-
sions from the Government.
These monopolies are of course injurious to trade generally but
are not especially hurtful to the agrioulturist, who is protected by
heavy import duties, the policy of the Republic being, perhaps very
reasonably, to make the strangers within their gates, who come to
delve and dig for gold, pay a certain proportion of their gains to
develop the country which ofiers them a temporary home.
That the Government should be reluctant to grant burghers'
rights and votes to men who have no intention of staying perman-
ently in the country is also scarcely to be wondered at. Whatever
our feelings may be on the subject, the Boers have fought like men
for their independence and are justified in endeavouring to keep it.
There are however certain exceptions to be taken as regards
details. Firstly as regards food, the fact should be recognised that
the farmers do not produce what the new cities require and the
entrance duties on all such necessities as fish, fruit and corn should
be lowered.
Another hardship is that miners should be compelled to use
dynamite of any one make if they consider their lives in danger
from it, and most certainly liberty should be granted to import or
manufacture any class of explosive.
At present there is likely to be a change in this law and probably
the mining industry will be greatly benefited, if a first class medium
such as Roburite, which is manufactured in Cape Colony, or some
other equally safe material, free from injurious gasses and permit-
iug of uninterrupted work could be used.
It is perhaps well to conclude this article by giving a few
of the import duties which more particularly affect the
settler who might wish to farm.
Butter, cheese, barley, oats and forage, 5s. per 100 1b.;
meal and wheat, 7s. 6d.; maize, ‘2s. 6d.; pork and bacon,
908. ; fresh fruit and vegetables, 25s.: and other prohibitive
charges.
The Revenue for 1887 was £668,433 and for 1891,


217
£967,191. The Expenditure for the same dates being
£621,073 and £1,350,073 respectively.
The Import duties for 1888 were £249,923 and for 1891
£316,660, the greater part of which falls upon the shoulders
of the foreign or gold mining contingent.
The list of imports is very incomplete and intending
settlers must be referred to the Customs Tarifi“ if they wish
to form an opinion of which industry seems the most
eligible.
Land is only granted on the quitrent system and freehold
is abolished. Naturalization is a burning question but,
however it is settled, the new citizen will no doubt be
required to abjure his former country on oath.
The measurement of mining claims are :—Alluvial,
150' x 150' ; Diamond, 30' x 30' ; Quartz Reef, 150' long
and 400' across reef ; Tailings, 400' x 400'.
Pretoria, (pop. about 12,000), elevation above sea level
4500 ft. Distant from Johannesburg, 32 miles; from Kim-
berley, 320 miles ; from Barberton, 231 miles ; from Delagoa
Bay, 391 miles.
PapersI—The Press; Transvaal Times; Advertiser.
Hotels.—President, Transvaal, Fountain, 12s. 6d; Claren~
don (Temperance), 10s. ; Commercial, 83. 6d.
(iaba—ls. per adult within town and 5s. per hour. 50% extra at
ni t.
gJinricslmwa—Gd. per mile or 2s. per hour. 50‘)O extra at night.
For Advertisements see pages 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 76 to 79.
Public BUildingS.—GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS, a large
three-storied building facing Church Square, recently com-
pleted, one of the handsomest and probably the costliest
pile in South Africa. The central tower is surmounted by
a statue of Liberty which has given rise to a protest from
a section of the community, who, undecided whether the
objectionable figure represented her Britannia Majesty or
the Virgin Mary, demanded its immediate removal in either
case. The building contains a fine meeting hall for the use
of the Upper Volksraad, approached through a handsome
vestibule, and a smaller appartment for the use of the Second
Chamber, both being provided with galleries for the use of
the public. Many of the public offices are contained in the


218
building. Nothing could better demonstrate the sudden
inrush of wealth which has taken place of late years than
the comparison of this sumptuous building with the little
thatched Parliament House which only four years ago stood
on the same spot.
The Standard, Natal and N ederlandsche Banks have
ofiiees on or near the square and a handsome corner building
is occupied by the National Bank. The Pos'r OFFICE is on
the west side and at the time of its construction was the
most pretentious building in the town. The European mail
closes on Sundays at 9 P.M. ‘
The centre of the square is occupied by the DUTCH RE-
FORMED CHURCH, the largest and most Conspicuous in town.
It has been proposed to convert it into a University or to
remove it altogether. The latter course will probably be,
adopted, for, standing as it does at the intersection of the
main business thoroughfares, it proves a considerable hind-
rance to traffic.
The ENGLISH CATHEDRAL, dedicated to St. Albans, is
situated in the upper portion of the town. This building
which contains a good organ is now in a state of transition.
A handsome Gothic chancel has already been erected, but the
want of funds has proved a hindrance to the completion of
the nave. The ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH has extensive school
and convent buildings attached,’ which stand in spacious
grounds. Other churches are the DOPPER CHURCH where the
President occasionally preaches and the WESLEYAN CHURCH
in Church Street; the GERMAN, BAPTIST, KAFFIR CHURCH,
&c.
A PUBLIC LIBRARY, English and Dutch, is shortly to be
opened and has received liberal support from the Govern-
ment. There are several public halls, in one of which, the
President’s Theatre, dramatic performances are held.
About a mile from the town a fine PUBLIC HOSPITAL has
been erected by the Government.
Pretoria, laid out in 1855, was named after Commandant Pre-
torius, first president of the South African Republic, of which it has
been the capital since 1863, when the seat of Government was re-
moved from Potchefstroom. The town is laid out on the northern
slope of the valley formed by the Aapies River, a small tributary of


219
the Crocodile rising near the town. The river is spanned by two
bridges which have been several times damaged by the summer
floods for which adequate provision has not been made. The town
is regularly laid out in parallelograms, the streets being of equal
width throughout and, in many instances, lined with magnificent
willows which, planted originally as fencing poles, have thriven
amazingly in the damp soil. Vegetation of all kinds is luxuriant,
the moist warm summer climate being specially adapted to the
cultivation of flowers and fruit.
Private enterprise has thrown open a piece of ground at the
upper end of the town known as the Berea, where cricket and foot-
ball matches are held and a rude swimming bath is provided.
A plot of ground, destined under British rule to form a botanical
garden, has recently been laid out for the public benefit as a park
and promenade.
The WATER SUPPLY has been much improved by the new water
works and no doubt will tend to decrease the heavy mortality so
largely brought about by the former system of paved channels.
The town is lighted throughout by electricity at least as well as
any town in Europe.
The main business thoroughfare is Church Street which
since the discovery of the gold fields has been almost entirely
rebuilt and contains several handsome stores. The market
square, on which it abuts, is provided with large market
buildings with a domed roof. The president’s house is
situated at the western extremity of the street. A par-
ticularly well designed building is that of the Pretoria Club
just below the square.
A fine view over the town and surrounding country is obtained
from the summit of the Signal Hill to the south, which rises to a
height of about 400 feet above the valley. The plateau at the foot
of the hill was the scene of the English Laager during the war of
1881. To the left are the State Artillery barracks and stores, and
in front the prison surrounded by a red brick wall with an old-
fashioned circular tower at the corner. The gallows are also
visible and executions are practically public.
On the summit of the hill are the remains of a time ball erected
by the British Government prior to the retrocession of the country.
When that event took place the wires connecting it with the tele-
graph ofiice, together with most of the telegraph wires in the
country, were seized by the victorious Boers for fencing purposes
but the useless structure stood there for several years, “a fitting
monument,” as some indignant Briton inscribed upon it, “to the
ineptitude of our rulers ”. It was finally blown down in a severe
gale two years ago. Jesse’s cottage, described in Rider Haggard’s
novel, still stands near the foot of the hill,


220
The country round Pretoria possesses few natural beauties with
the exception of the road to “ the Fountains,” three miles distant,
where the magnificent springs from which the water supply is drawn
take their rise. The railway from Johannesburg enters the town
through this valley.
To the right of the main north road, about three miles from town,
is the WONDERBOOM, a shady grove apparently springing from one
central stem and utterly dissimilar to any trees in the district. Its
solitary and conspicuous position and its shady branches have made
it one of the favourite resorts for picnics.
The CLIMATE of Pretoria has been touched on on page 52.
Coaches leave Pretoria for—
Rugtenburg and Zeerust (Malmani Gold Fields) on Thurs-
days at 8 P.M. Fares £3 and £5 10s. respectively.
On Mondays and Thursdays at 5 A.M. for Zoutpansberg, Klein
Letaba, Mashonaland, 8w-
wal‘m Baths 11 hrs. fare £4 0 0 (ret. £7.)
Nylstrom 14 ,, (halt), ,, 5 0 0
Pietpotgietersrust 32 H n 7 10 0
Smitsdorp 37 ,, ,, 9 0 0
Pietersburg 40 ,, (halt), ,, 9 10 0
Haenertsbulig 47 ,, ,, 11 10 0
Leydsdorp( Onday 0n1y),55 ,, ,, 15 O 0
The same Monday coach is met by a conveyance at Pietersburg
which goes to the Klein Letaba, Gold Fields (2 days), fare £5 10s.
or £15 10s. total from Pretoria.
The Thursday coach is met at Pietersburg by a conveyance
which goes to Fort Tuli, beyond the Limpopo and into the
Chartered Company's Territory. Fare £17 105-; 50 lbs- of
luggage free, 1s. 6d. per lb. on excess.
From Fort Tuli to Victoria, (about 7 days), £7 10s., or total
from Pretoria, £22 10s. From Victoria. to Fort Salisbury
(another 7 days), £7 10s., or £15 from Fort Tuli, or £27 10s. from
Pretoria. Post carts run weekly along the Tuli, Victoria, Salisbury
and Chcmoyo road. I
On Mondays and Thursdays at 5 A.M. for Barberton and
Delagoa Bay 'vizZ Middelburg, 75 m., and Helvetia,’ arriving at
Barberton on Wednesdays and Saturdays, fare £10. Return
coaches on Mondays and Fridays at 4 A.M., arriving Wednesdays
and Sundays.
The same coach is met at Helvetia on Tuesdays and Fridays by
a branch coach for Lydenburg, fare £8. Returns Mondays and
Fridays at 4 A.M.
The same coach is also met at Helvetia by the Oharlestown and
Barberton coach and a second change is .made at Lake Chrissie,
whence a conveyance runs to Darkton, Bremersdorp and
Embekelweni (Swaziland) on Tuesdays returning on Monday.
Passengers from Charlestown also change at Lake Chrissie.
Rustenburg (Masonic Hotel), between which and Pretoria the


221
Crocodile River is spanned by a good bridge, is situated near the
lofty Magaliesburg Mountains. In the neighbourhood is Magata's
Kraal, where the English troops made their camp during the war
and which is well worth a visit. There are Dutch and Anglican
Churches.
The climate is very hot, fruit is plentiful and large quantities of
tobacco are grown. The Transvaal tobacco seems, like the South
African Veldschoen, once adopted always retained, though neither
are particularly attractive at first.
For Advertisement see page 74.
The coach road from Pretoria to Johannesburg (32 miles)
crosses the river‘at SIX MILE SPRUI'l‘ (hotel) where a bridge
is in course of construction but, owing to frequent “wash
aways,” the completion of the work has been much delayed.
The HALF WAY HoUsE HOTEL is a favourite resort of pleasure
seekers from the two towns, the hotel being surrounded by
extensive grounds. Three miles from Johannesburg the road
ascends the Witwatersrand Range and crosses the watershed
between the Atlantic and Indian Ocean river systems.
Johannesburg, 5600 ft., population difficult to esti-
mate but probably about 40,000.
Distance from Cape Town, 1013 miles; time occupied, 61 hours;
fare 1st class, £11 2s. 3d. ; 2nd class, £8; 3rd class, £4 8s. 9d.
Distance from Port Elizabeth, 713 miles; time 50§ hours; fares
£8 4s. ; £5 13s. 5d. ; £3 3s. 9d.
Distance from East London, 665 miles; time 48% hours; fares
£7 13s.; £5 68. ; £2 19s. 9d.
Distance from Kimberley, 660 miles; time 46 hours; fares
£6 15 10; £5 12s. ; £2 19s. 2d. by train or 320 miles by road.
Distance from Durban, 304 miles by rail, time 17 hours; and
130 miles by coach, time 20 hours; total fares, 1st class, £7 12s. 6d.;
2nd, £6 11s. 8s. 'mki Charlestown; or 337 miles by rail and 125 by
coach, fares, £7 4s. 6d. and £5 189. cm Harrismith and Heilbron
Road.
Papers—The Star ; Diggers’ News ,' Mining Argus.
Hotels—Heath’s President; Gold Fields; North Wes-
tern ; Central ; Grand National, 12s. 6d. upwards; Heights ;
Lee’s, 10s. 6d. upwards and others.
For Advertisements see pages 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 22, 35, 50 to
54, 71, 76, 77.
Trams run along Commissioner Street from Jeppe’s Town to
Fordsburg, Is. all the way or 3d. a stage; from the Exchange to
Doornfontein and from the Exchange to the Hospital, both 6d.
total or 3d. per stage.


223
west, situated between the Robinson mine and the railway
sheds, and J eppe’s Town, Bertram’s Town and Doornfontein .
on the east, the two last being, together with a part of the
land near the Hospital, the most fashionable part of
Johannesburg.
The most useful railway station for passengers is that
known as PARK STATION, situated on the old Boksburg
Tram, which has now been raised to the dignity of a rail-
way with double lines of rails, and extends from Krugers-
dorp to Boksburg along the line of main reef connecting
Johannesburg with the trunk line from Bloemfontein to
Pretoria at Elandsfontein Junction, 11 miles away and close
to Germiston.
The streets are regularly laid out and several large open
squares have been provided. The MARKET SQUARE, a quarter
of a mile long, is the largest in South Africa. In the centre
are the new MARKET BUILDINGS and at the upper end the
GOVERNMENT OFFICES with PosT and TELEGRAPH Offices, open
from 9 to 5.
The European mail closes Sunday at 8 RM.
Owing to want of space for the postal work most of the
Government offices are being moved into new buildings in
Church Square. When it is stated that the work of the
telegraph deparment in 1887 was done by two clerks and
that in 1892 fifty-seven were scarcely sufficient, it is easy
to understand how impossible it has been for the accom-
modation to keep pace with the demand.
The PUBLIc LIBRARY is in Salisbury Buildings, Govern-
ment Square.
The STocK EXCHANGE fronts on Commissioner Street and
has a fairly good interior. Being the principle centre or
rather the “Holy of Holies” of the town, it may be
regarded also as the best starting point whence to take a
tram in any direction.
The town is well provided with places of amusement, the
chief resorts being the Standard, Globe and Royal Theatres
and the Amphitheatre.
The WANDERERs’ ATHLETIC GROUND and PAVILION are
among the best in South Africa and are situated in Kruger’s


224
Park, just beyond Park Station. There are cricket ground,
bicycle track, etc., the handsome hall being used for
gymnastics and for concerts, which form the great Sunday
evening attraction of the town. Admission ls. or to the
grounds 2s. and 3s.
The “Rand” is the principle club.
Besides Kruger’s Park, a large space of ground has
recently been planted a little nearer the Hospital and
enclosed spaces exist both in Doornfontein and Jeppe’s
Town where there are tennis courts, &c. There is also a
swimming bath.
The race course is about 2 miles south of the town.
The Gas Company’s works, which also supply customers
with the electric light, are situated on the way to
Fordsburg. >
Enormous sums of money have been expended on build-
ings, and the many stately piles of offices and stores which
adorn the town are the more remarkable when it is borne
in mind that the cost of every pound weight of timber,
iron and imported building materials generally has been
increased by 1d. to 3d. for wagon transport from the
railway terminus. The beauty of some of the shops and
the size of the plate glass in some of the windows are most
remarkable.
There are CHURCHES of all denominations in the town
but none of much artistic merit. ST. MARY’s HALL (Angli-
can) is the largest and is capable of accommodating over
1000 persons. Some £20,000 however have been collected
for the erection of a still larger building.
The new J EwIsH SYNAGOGUE is also worthy of a visit, and
provides seats for a large number of people.
The HOSPITAL is situated on the slope to the north of the
town and was erected at a cost of nearly £20,000. The
conspicuous building above it is a gaol.
WATER is laid on to the houses in pipes, but difficulties remain to
be overcome before the supply is quite satisfactory.
Doornfontein, to the east of the town, is the principal suburb
and contains many pretty villas and gardens.
Jep'pe’s Town, which adjoins and resembles it, is situated on
rather higher ground; Booysens's is a. suburb on the south ; whilst
Fordsburg is a. rapidly extending community, which gives shelter


225
to those employed in the Robinson and neighbouring mines.
Bramfontein, which abounds with brick-fields, lies between the
town and goods station.
The principal drives and pleasure resorts are Orange Grove,
3% In. ; willowgrove (adjoining Langlaagte Station), 315 m. ; Sans
Solid, 3 m.—all of which are gardens more or less resembling
Rosherville. Other good drives are to Booygen’s and up Bezui-
denhout’s Valley, the last named being marked out as a future
Hyde Park.
Although not so expensive as formerly, Johannesburg is still one
of the most costly places of residence in the world. Brick lined
corrugated iron cottages, containing four or five rooms, cost about
£10 per month in arespectable quarter of the town, and garden ground,
except on the most limited scale, is only to be had in the outskirts.
Bachelor living costs from about £8 per head per month for board
and lodging. The cheapest article of consumption is meat costing
6d. per 1b., but vegetables and the lighter articles of diet so necessary
to health in this climate are high in price and sometimes very
scarce. Altogether Johannesburg cannot be regarded as an
economical place of residence, but the facilities of transport secured
by the advent of the railway go far to render life more enjoyable.
For particulars of the climate see page 51. The dust which has
been so prevalent in the neighbourhood of late years will tend to
lessen now that the necessity for Waggon tralfic is not so great.
Coaches leave J ohannesberg for
Potchefstroom, 80 m., fare£3 0 0
Klerksdorp, 111111-, ,, 4 0 0
on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, at 5 A.M., returning on
Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 4 A.M. (40 lbs. luggage;
extra, 6d. per 1b.).
From Klerksdorp a post cart runs via. Bloemhof, 90 m., to
Warrenton, 148 m., fare £4. (See page 146.)
A branch coach leaves Potchefstroom on Mondays and Fridays,
at 8 A.M., for Zeerust (Malmani Gold Fields), arriving next day.
Return on Mondays and Fridays.
Taking the Sunday afternoon train to Krugersdorp, another coach
leaves Mondays, 4 A.M., via Rustenburg to Zeerust, arriving
Tuesday afternoons and returning Friday afternoons.
Krugersdorp, 22 m., is a small town chiefly remarkable on
account of a monument which has been erected to the memory of
those who have died for the public good, and is the periodical
rendezvous of a species of national pilgrimage.
Germiston, 11 m., and Boksburg, 13 m., are small towns. It
is from the coal mines near the latter that a large part of the supply
required by the Witwatersrand mines is derived.
Potchefstroom, 4100 ft., 85 m. from Johannesburg,
_ 210 m. from Kimberley (pop. about 2500).
16


226
Hotels.—Queen’s ; Royal ; Crown.
I‘or Advertisements, see pages 7, 9.
Potchefstroom is the oldest town in the Republic having been
founded by the Voortrekker chief Potgieter in the year 1839. Prior
to 1863, when the seat of Government was removed to Pretoria, as
being more central, it was the chief town and in 1862 was the scene
of the civil war between the Boer factions under Snyman and
Schoeman, when it underwent a harmless bombardment at the
hands of Paul Kruger whose guns were mercifully placed out of
range. However in the fight which took place on the following day
one man was killed and Kruger entered the town in triumph.
More serious fighting occurred here in 1881 when 250 British were
cooped up in a fort 25 yards square. Colonel Winsloe in command,
after losing more than one-third of his men killed and wounded,
surrendered on 19th March, ten days after the Boer commander had
learned that an armistice had been proclaimed, this being the only
instance when the British laagers did not hold out to the close of
the war. The remains of the earthworks and trenches are still
visible.
The town stands on the Mooi River a few miles from its
junction with the Vaal and is abundantly supplied with
water. The fine willows and luxuriant vegetation give it a
pleasant and verdant appearance. The discovery of gold
reefs in the neighbourhood lent a powerful stimulus to the
development of the town, but the expectations formed of the
mineral wealth of the district have so far not been realised.
On the road to Johannesburg, 35 m. from Potchefstroom, are the
Wonderfontein eaves, a series of stalactite caverns of great beauty.
For coaches to Klerksdorp and Zeerust, see page 225.
Klerksdorp, 4600 ft. (pop. about ‘2000), Palace Hotel,
where coaches stop. 180 m. from Kimberley, 31 from
Potchefstroom.
For coach route between Johannesburg and Warrenton
for Kimberley, see page 225; and for carts between here
and Kroonstad, see Kroonstad.
The old village is situated on the right bank of the Schoonspruit
and is connected by a bridge with the new town. The latter,
dating from 1888, owes its existence entirely to the discovery of gold
and has far surpassed the old village in size and importance, at
one time bidding fair to rival Johannesburg. Over-speculation and
mismanagement however have sadly hampered the progress of the
town. The banks of the Vaal River, about 10 miles distant, afford
good wild fowl shooting.


227
Ninety miles of monotonous level extend between here
and Bloemhof, 4450 ft., a dismal little village on the
banks of the Vaal which appears to have derived no accession
of wealth from the gold discoveries.
Christiana, 35 m. distant, and 57 m. from Kimberley,
is the last village in the Transvaal. It is also situated on
the Vaal River and in former years was a notorious centre
of the illicit diamond trade. Alluvial diamond deposits
have recently been opened in the neighbourhood.
Papers—The Goldfield News.
Barberton, 3000 ft. (pop. about 1000). Hotels:
Royal, Phoenix, Granville, ‘ Crown—all about 12s. 6d.
For Advertisements, see pages 7, 8, 10, 76. '
Is the centre of the De Kaap Gold-fields. Gold was discovered in
the De Kaap Valley as early as 1875 but attracted little attention
until 1882, when a small rush took place and alluvial digging com-
menced in earnest. In 1884 Moodie’s was the principal centre and
supported a population of about 1000 diggers, but the disputes which
arose in connection with the cession of Moodie’s block to a company
resulted in many of the diggers extending their researches after the
precious mineral, and two years later the reefs were discovered
which led to the enormous inflation of 1886. In the rush which
followed the town of Barberton sprang up as if by magic, and for a
few months money and men poured into the new township until
the population is computed to have reached 8000. The bubble
speedily burst and by the middle of 1887 Barberton was on the
downward grade; most of the companies were found to be absolutely
worthless and the few which possessed good reefs could not be
worked at a profit owing to the enormous cost of transport and
other local difficulties. The discovery of the Rand fields about the
same time drew away many whose exertions might have materially
benefited the fields and it can hardly yet be said that Barberton is
recovering from the depression caused by the first mad speculation.
The town is laid out on the slope of the De Kaap Valley,
so called from the imposing headland or “ kaap ” which over-
looks it and forms one of the spurs of the Drakensberg
Range. Formerly the low ground in the vicinity was most
unhealthy and malarial fever prevailed to such an extent as
to render residence, during the summer months, almost im-
possible, bnt the advance of civilisation and consequent
clearing of the soil have driven this plague from the
neighbourhood of the town. It still exists however in the
district and the contractors have found it a serious diffi-


228
culty in the construction of the railway. Another pest
occasioning great loss is the tsetse fly whose bite is fatal
to horses and oxen.
The means of reaching Barberton are becoming easier
every day. Besides the coach routes from Pretoria and
Natal (refer to Charlestown and Pretoria) there is the
railway from Delagoa Bay and Komatie Poort, which
is to have a branch line to Barberton from the 64
kilometres post. At present coaches run in connection
with the trains to and from Poort City, kil. 92, through
mountainous country, a distance of some 30 miles (time
7 hours; fare 30s.; baggage 25 lbs., and 3d. per lb. on
excess). '
Though the famous Sheba Reef and other mines seem for
the. moment under a cloud, there can be no doubt that Bar-
berton must come to the fore again.
The want of means of transport has always crippled in-
- dustry, and once that this is assured, and that it is
demonstrated that the district can be reached and lived
in without fear of fever, the enormous expense of obtaining
the ore will disappear, and mines, which are now unre-
munerative, will again attract the attention of speculators.
Steynsdorp, the centre of the Komati fields, situated
on the Swaziland border is 43 miles distant.
The road from Pretoria to Barberton, along which the
railway will soon run, passes through Bronkhorst
Spruit, 40 miles from the former, the scene of the
opening episode of the war of 1881 when, without any
declaration of hostility, the Boers, concealed behind the
boulders in the neighbourhood of the road, shot down a
detachment of the 97th Regiment numbering 270 persons
under Colonel Anstruther. All but twenty men and one
officer fell within a few minutes. The dead lie buried near
the scene of action. Coal mines are being worked in the
neighbourhood.
Middelburg, 75 m. from Pretoria, is prettily situated
on a small tributary of the Olifants River.
Hotels—Middelburg; President.
For Advertisements, see pages 7, 76.


230
The North Road.
The North Road from Pretoria to the Low Country Gold-
fields (for Coaches see p. 220), traverses the Springbok flats
to the WARM Buns, 70 miles, where there is a bathing es_
tablishment patronised by sufferers from gout, rheumatism
and cutaneous affections. The water wells up at a tempera-
ture of 160° and it is believed that when properly developed,
the spring will be widely recognised as of great importance.
N YLSTROM, 88 m., has been a township for many years,
but was practically abandoned on account of the low fever
so prevalent in the swampy valley of the Nijl. During the
last two years however it has received a new impetus from
its situation on the road to the gold-fields.
The mountains to the eastward at one time formed the strong-
hold of the Kai-‘fir Chief Secocoeni who was attacked without suc-
cess by the Boers in 1876. Their repulse was one of the reasons
which led to British occupation in the following year. In 1879 Sir
Garnet Wolseley led a British force northward and, appreciating
the difficulty of driving the natives from their mountain strongholds
with heavily armed and encumbered white troops, he raised a
powerful auxiliary body of Swazis, a stroke of policy to which is
mainly due the speedy and successful termination of the war but
which did not fail to raise the indignation of the Exeter Hall
philanthropists.
Leaving N ylstrom the road traverses many pretty
stretches of country, some of which are well timbered with
thorn trees, to MAKAPANS Poon'r, 145 miles, a gloomy gorge
through the mountains which have been the ‘scene of many
conflicts between Boers and natives.
EERSTELING, on the north side of the mountains, was the
first spot on which gold mining operations were commenced
in the Transvaal. The Company was floated in 1872 but
met with little success owing to the difficulties of transport
and the troubles with the Kaflirs.
SMITSDORP is a mining camp laid out on the summit of a
hill in l888. The situation has nothing to recommend it
and the neighbourhood of Pietersburg, only 15 miles dis~
tant, will prove a serious drawback to its further develop—
ment.
For Advertisement see page 77.



still roam over the vast undulating plains but the scarcity
of water during the winter months drives most of them to
the westward.
The banks of the LIMPoPo are well wooded and in places
very beautiful ; the river is never dry but the vast volume
of water sent down by the summer rains shrinks during the
winter into a few shallow streams which are easily fordable.
Large deposits of copper ore occur near its banks and at one
spot, near the junction of the Dorps River, several excava-
tions may be seen where the Kaffirs have carried on exten-
sive mining operations. The workings however appear to
have been abandoned for many years. It is possible that
at some future period this river may be made navigable.
The best map of the Transvaal published is Troye’s map
for 1892, which shows the position of every farm in the
country.


A LIST OF A FEW OF THE BOOKS TREATING OF SOUTH
AFRICA WHICH WILL BE FOUND OF INTEREST.
“Compendium of South African History
and. Gwgmphy" ' ' ‘ ‘ e. M‘Call, Theal.
“Chronicles of the Cape Commanders,"
and other works . .
“ South Africa, Past and Present ” . . John Noble.
“ Cape of Good Hope Offieial Hand-Book " Do.
“ Problems of Greater Britain ” . . Sir Chas. W. Dilke, Bart.
“ Our South African Empire ” . .
. W. Gresswell, M.A.
“ The Geography of Africa, South of the
Zambesi ” . . . . . Do.
“ History of the Battles of South Africa ” D. C. F. Moodie.
“ Natal, the Land and its Story ” . . Robert Russell.
“ The Story of the Settlers” . . . T. Sheffield.
“ Ingwadi Yami ” . . . . . J. W. Matthews, M.D.
“Golden South Africa ” . . . . Edward P. Mathers.
“ Zambesia ” . . . . . . Do.
“ A Hunter’s Wanderings in Africa ” . F. C. Selons.
“ Kloof and Karroo in Cape Colony ” . H. A. Bryden.
“ The Sportsman in South Africa ” . . J. A. Nicolls and W.
Eglinton.
“ Story of a South African Farm ” . . Olive Schreiner.
And others.
A nearly complete list of works on South Africa will be found in the
“ Catalogue of Books relating to South Africa ” by Charles
A. Fairbridge and John Noble.
DIRECTORIES AND WORKS OF REFERENCE, &0.
The Argus Annual and South African Directory.
General Directory of South Africa.
Natal Directory.
J eppe's Transvaal Almanac and Directory.
And others,
And South Africa, a Weekly J Qurnal.





INDEX.
‘ type denote principal references.
Bathurst, 177.
370. Beaconsfield, 142.
Beaufort West, 40, 140.
,, 13. Bechuanaland, 53, 68, 147.
Bedford, 43, 179.
Beira, 27, 56.
-1. Bellair, 204.
nellevue. 173.
' » 141
INDEX.





239
De Aar, 141, 181.
Debe Nek, 188.
De Becr’s Mine, 143, 145.
Debt (Public), 45, 48.
De Kaap, 227.
Delagoa Bay, 26, 96, 220, 229.
Devil’s Peak, 123.
Dewetsdorp, 196.
Diagrams, sectional, 35.
Diamonds, 75, 102, 227, 231 ; Buy-
ing regulations, 143 ; Dis-
covery of, 142; Mines, 142,
144, 182; yield of, 146.
Diep River, 126, 162.
Dingaan, 103.
Docks, Cape Town, 112.
Dog, Wild, 84.
Dohne, 192.
Doornbergen, 141.
Doornfontein, 224.
Dordrecht, 42, 194.
Dorps River, 232.
Douglas, 141.
Drachenstein Mountains, 132.
Drake, Sir Francis, 91.
Drakensberg Mountains, 198, 208.
Duiker Bok, 84.
Dundee, 209.
Durban, 13, 36, 46, 103, 200 ;
Road, 128.
Durbanville, 128.
Dust Storms, 39.
Duties (Customs), 14.
Du Toits Pan, 142; Mine, 145.
Duttons Cove, 157.
Dwyka River, 139.
Dysentery, 88.
Eastern Uplands, 42.
East London, 37, 190.
Edenburg, 182.
Edendale, 207.
Eersteling, 230.
Eland, The, 81. _
Elandsfontein, 26, 186.
Elephant, The, 79, 162.
Elibe, 148.
Emancipation, 100.
Embekelweni, 211, 220.
Emerald Hill, 169.

Emigrants, 67.
Ermelo, 211.
Estcourt, 208.
Exports,’45, 49.
False Bay, 149.
Fares, Coaches, 31 ; Railways, 27,
29; Steamships, 3, 4, 67.
Farming, 41, 50, 55, 71, 159, 216,
Schools, 46.
Fauresmith, 182.
Ficksburg, 185.
Fingoes, 101.
Fontes Villa, 27, 56.
Forage, 71.
Fordsburg, 224.
Forest Hall, 165.
Forests, 192 ; Knysna, 163.
Fort Beaufort, 43, 179, 190.
Fort Brown, 176.
Fossils, Fish, 184.
Fourteen Streams, 146.
Franschhoek, 131.
Fraserberg, 42, 139; Road, 139.
Funchal, 8.
Game, Wild, 76, 134, 150, 153,
163, 165, 172, 176, 180, 231;
Birds, 85; Laws, 76.
Geelhoudboom, River, 162.
Gemsbok, 82.
George, 37, 157, 161.
German Protectorate, 102.
Germiston, 26, 186, 225.
Giraffe, The, 81.
Glen Avon Waterfall, 178.
Glencoe Junction, 209.
Gnu, 83.
Gold, Alluvial, 74; Fields of De
Kaap, 227; Klerksdorp, 226; ,
Komati, 228; Knysna, 163 ;
Low County, 230 ,Lydenburg,
229 ; Malrnani, 220; Potchef-
stroom, 226; Prince Albert,
161 ; Witwatersrand, 222 ;
Zoutpansberg, 230.
Gong-Gong, 146.
Goudini Road, 136 ; Valley, 38.
Gouritz River, 155.


240
Graafi Reinet, 40, 61,171.
Grahamstown, 42, 62, 173, 187,
190
Grand Canary, 11.
Grange, The, 210.
Grants of Lands, 68.
Great Fish River, 178, 179, 187.
Great Karroo, 38.
Great Winterberg Mountains, 194.
Great Winterhoek Mountains,17 9.
Green Point, 120.
Greytown, 207.
Griqualand East, 198; West, 42,
143.
Griquatown, 141.
Grobelaars River, 159.
Groenvlei, 162.
Grijsbok, 84.
Gubulawayo, 147.
Guns, 88.
Haartebeest, 83 ; Bastard, 82 ;
Mountains, 150.
Haenertsburg, 220, 231.
Hanover, 42, 181; Road, 181.
Harding, 204.
Harrismith, 50, 212.
Hart River, 146.
Harvey Waterfall, 165.
Heaths, Cape, 150, 153.
Hebron, 146; Road, 146.
Heidelberg (Colony), 154; (Trans-
vaal), 52, 210.
Heilbron, 186, 213.
Helvetia, 211, 220, 229.
Hermon, 134.
Herschel, 196.
Hex River, 136; Mountains, 139.
Hides, 72.
Hilton Road, 207.
Hintsa, 101, 174.
Hippopotamus, The, 80.
History, Cape Colony, 89 ; Natal,
102; Orange Free State, 183 ;
Transvaal, 213, 226.
Homtini, 162.
Hoogekraal, 162.
Hopefield, 128. '
Hope Town, 141.
Horses, 87.

Hotel Accommodation, 16;
Charges, 17.
Hottentot’s Holland, 93, 129, 148.
Houses of Parliament (Cape
Town), 114.
Houtkraal, 141.
Houtsbay, 125.
Houw Hock, 150.
Howick, 207.
Humansdorp, 37, 165.
Humidity, 37, 59 to 66.
Hunting Grounds, 86; Outfit,
86
Hyena, The, 84.
I.D.B., 143.
Idutywa, 190.
Immigration, 67.
Imports, 45, 49.
Inanda, 207.
Incandu River, 209.
Indian Corn, 72.
Indwe Coal Mines, 194.
Ingogo, 210.
Iquibeka, 188.
Irene, 187.
Irrigation of Lands, .43, 70, 72.
Isandhlwana, 209.
Isipingo, 203.
Ivory, 79.
Ixopo, 204.
Jackal, The, 84.
J acobsdaal, 141.
J agersfontein, 182 ; Road, 182.
Jamestown, 196. .
J ansenville, 170.
J eppe’s Town, 224.
Johannesburg, 26, 51, 211, 221,
Jonkershoek, 130.
Kabuse, 192.
Kaflir Corn, 72.
Kaifir Wars, 98, 99, 101, 106, 230.
Kafiraria, 102, 190, 198.
Kalkbank, The, 31, 137.
Kalkbay, 126.
Kanje, 147.
Karatara River, 162.
Kariega River, 176.


42
1\Iatabeleland, 54.
‘Matabeles, The, 214.
Matatiele, 199.
Matjesfontein, 40, 139.
Measures, 15.
Meiringspoort, 160.
Meteorology, 32, 59 to 66.
Middelburg (Colony), 172, 180 :
Transvaal, 26, 215, 228 ;
Road, 180.
Millwood, 163.
Mimosa Station, 173.
Mineral Springs, Aliwal N., 196:
Brandvlei, 137 ; Caledon, 150;
Goudini, 136; Malmeshury,
128; Montagu, 138; Warm
Baths, Transvaal, 230.
Mines, 74; Goal, 194, 209, 215 ;
Copper, 94, 134, 214, 222;
Diamond, 142, 144, 182 ;
Gold, 163, 220, 222, 226, 229;
Silver, 214.
Mitchell's Pass, 135.
.\Iochudi, 147.
Modder River, 141.
Molepolele, 147.
Molteno, 181, 194.
Money, 14; Orders, 18.
Montagu, 37, 138; Pass, 156.
Moodies, 227.
Mooi River, 226; Station, 207.
Morgen, 15.
Morija, 197.
Mcsilikatse, 214.
Mossel Bay, 37, 153, 155.
Mount Fletcher, 199.
Mount Frere, 199.
Mount Stewart, 170.
Mount Wedza, 148.
Mowbray, 122.
Muizemburg, 126.
Mulder‘s Vlei, 131.
llIurrayburg, 140, 171.
Museums, Cape Town, 114 ; Dur-
ban, 200; Grahamstown,
174.
Naauwpoort, 181.
Namaqualand, 56.
Napier, 151.
Natal, 200; Climate, 46 ; Re-
sources, 47 ; Crown Lands,
69 ; History of, 94, 102 ; Rail-
ways, 23.
Naturalisation, 51, 217.
Nelspoort, 140, 171.
Newcastle, 209.
Newlands, 122.
Newspapers, 21.
Nieuwveld l\Its., 140.
North Road, The, 230.
Northern Karroo, 40, 140.
Norvals Pont, 182.
Nottingham Road, 207.
Nutzi River, 165.
Nylstrom, 220, 230.
Cats, 71.
Ocean Currents, 34.
Olifants River, 159, 229.
Oliviers Hoek Pass, 208.
O’okiep, 134.
Orange Free State, 182; Climate,
49 ; History, 183.
Orange River, 141, 182, 195.
Ostrich, 85 ; Feathers, 72.
Origstad, 229.
Otto’s Kopye Mine, 145.
Oudtshoorn, 37, 139, 156, 158.
Outeniqua Mts., 157.
()xen, 86.
Ox Wagons, 86.
Paardepoort, 158.
Paarl, 57, 131.
Pacaltsdorp, 157.
Palachive, 147.
Palla Camp, 148.
Palmiet River, 150.
Panmure, 191.
Papendorp, 121.
Parcels (Post), 18.
Passages (Free), 67.
Pearston, 172.
Peelton, 192.
Perseverance, 169.
Phantom Pass, 163.
Philipstown, 141.
Pietermaritzburg, 66, 190, 205,
Pietersburg, 27, 220, 231,


245
Vette River, 154.
Venterstad, 182.
Victoria, Bay, 157 ; Camp, 55, 148,
220; West, 42, 140; West
Road, 140.
Viljoens Drift, 26, 186.
Vine, The, 31, 92.
Vocabulary, 22.
Volksnlst, 210.
Voyage, The, 5.
Vrede, 213.
Vryburg, 147.
Vryheid, 209.
Wagenaar’s Kraal, 40, 140.
Wages, 23.
Wagons, 86.
Waldek’s Diggings, 146.
Walfisch Bay, 102.
Warm Baths (Transvaal), 220, 230.
Warrenton, 146, 225.
Water Supply, Cape Town, 119;
Grahamstown, 176; Johannes-
burg, 224; Kimberley, 144 ;
Port Elizabeth, 169 ;Prctoria,
219.
Weenen, 208.
Weights and Measures, 15.
Wellington, 37, 132.
Wells, Artesian, 41, 70.
Wepener, 196, 197.
Wesselton Mine, 145.
\Vheat, 71.
Wilde Beest, zwaart, 83 ; Blaauw,
84.

Willowmore, 40, 170.
Winburg, 186, 213.
Winds, 39, 46, 167, 176.
Windvogel Mountains, 192. .
Wine, Cape, 31, 131.
Winterhoek Mountains, 134, 170.
Witwatersrand, 51, 222. _
Witzenberg Mountains, 134.
Wolf, The, 84.
Wonderfontein Caves, 226.
Woodifield’s Krantz, 172.
Woodstock, 121.
Woodville, 162.
Wool, 72.
Wolmeranstad, 14G.
Worcester, 37, 136.
Wynberg, 122, 124.
Zambesia, 55.
Zebra, The, 81.
Zeerust, 147, 220, 225.
Zondoreinde Mountains, 152.
Zoutpansberg, 27, 231.
Zululand, 70, 109, 203.
Zulu War, 107.
Zuurberg Pass, 172.
Zuurbrak, 153.
Zwaartbergen Range, 38, 160.
Zwaartberg Pass, 160.
Zwaartkops(Golony) , 169; (Natal),
206; River, 169, 170.
Zwaart River, 162.
Zwaartruggens, 170.
Zwaart Vlei, 162.
Zwaart-Wit-pans, 82.


Advertisements.


TRADE INDEX TO
Advertising Mediums, 26, 38.
Arms, Ammunition, etc., 55, 75, 77.
Artists’ Colours, 23.
Assayers' Requisites, 20, 53.
Assurance Companies, 5, 26, 86,
87
Banks, 6 to 10.
Basket Work, 59.
Billiard Requisites, 21.
Biscuits, 73.
Booksellers, 22, 23, 26, 36, 63.
Boots and Shoes, 13, 27, 28, 44, 58,
64 67
Bulb Merchants, 72.
Candles, 76.
Carpets, 19, 39.
Cart Builders, etc., 43, 44, 67, 70.
Chairs, etc., Wicker, 59.
Chemists, 20, 35, 38, 47, 53, 63, 65,
71, 79.
China Merchants, 39.
Cigars, etc., 25, 68, 76.
Clothiers, 13, 27, 38, 46, 55, 64, 66,
67.
Coaching Agents, 35, 76.
Coaling Agents, 4, 36.
Commission Agents, 13, 25, 36, 42,
43, 54, 74.
Curios, 59, 72.
Diamond Dealers, 29.
Drapers, 13, 19, 27, 38, 46, 56, 58,
6 66. 67
Druggists, 20,35, 38. 47, 53, 63, 65,
71, 79.
Explosives, 75.
Exporters, 39.
Fancy Goods, 26, 63.
Filtres, 21, 77, 83.
Florists, 72.
Forwarding Agents, 13, 25, 36, 41,
54. 58, 65, 74.
Furniture, 39, 72, 77.
Games, 21.
Glass Merchants, 39.
Hardware, 21, 45, 66.
Hatters, 28, 38, 46, 64.
Horns, 55, 72.
Insurance Companies, 5, 26, 86,
87.

HDVERTISEMENTS.
Ironmongers, 21, 45, 64, 66, 77.
Jewellers, 29, 59, 63.
Karosses, 55, 72.
Land Companies, 42.
Medicines (Patent), 20, 35, 38, 47,
53, 65, 71, 79.
Millers, 44.
Mining Requisites, A, B, 72.
Mortgage Companies, 9.
Outfitters (Expedition), 21, 55, 74,
77
Parcels’ A ents, 36, 41.
Photograp s, 20, 23, 26, 27, 40.
Photogrfiph Materials, 20, 38.
Plants ( ative), 72.
Printers, 26.
Produce Agents, 13, 27, 42, 63, 64,
66 74. '
Publishers, 22, 23, 26.
Railways, C, D, E.
Saddlery, 55, 63, 77.
Saw Mills, 57, 58.
Seed Merchants, 63, 72.
Sheep Dip, 68.
Shipping Agents, 13, 25, 36,41, 42,
43, as, 65, 74.
Shipping Companies, 1, 2, 3.
Ships’ Biscuits, 73.
Skins, 55, 72.
Spirit Merchants, 59, 85.
Sporting Requisites, 21.
Stationers, 22, 23, 26, 36, 64.
Traders’ Goods, 55, 74, 77.
Tanks (Iron), 45.
Tanners, 44.
Timber Merchants, 43, 44, 67, 58,
66
Tin-plate Workers, 45.
Tobacco, 25, 68, 69, 76.
Tools, 21, 55, 77.
Tourist Oflices, C, E.
Umbrellas, 40.
Vinegar Works, 82.
Wagon Builders, 43, 45, 67, 70, 72.
Walking Sticks, Whips, etc.. 40.
Warehousemen, 13, 54, 65.
Wickerwork Goods, 59.
Wire Rope Makers, A, B.
Wine Merchants, 59, 85.


Union LINE
SOUTH AFRICAN GoLD FIELDS AND
MASHONALAND.
CAPE 0, GOOD HOPE, NATAL, and EAST AFRICAN ROYAL MAIL
SERVICE.
WEEKLY SERVICE. '
THE UNION STEAM SHIP COMPANY, LIMITED-
ESTABLISHED 1853.
:9“
FLEET. '
Name. Tonnage. H.P. Name. Tonnage. H.P.
8001', 0850 12000 ARAB, 8192 3000
GAUL(Building).lBfi0 2000 GERMAN, 3007 2050
60TH, ,, 4820 2000 DURBAN, 2808 2000
GREEK, ,, 4820 2000 ANGLIAN, 2158 1700
MEXICAN, 4549 4600 'l‘YRlAN, 1455 1350
TAR'I‘AR, 4246 4900 AFRICAN, 1372 1300
A'l‘l-IENlAN, 3782 4000 NORSEMAN, 938 700
MOON, . .. 8597 ... 4500 SAXON, ... 402 . .. 500
TROJAN, 3471 4100 NATAL, 158 385
SPARTAN, 8403 4100 UNION, 118 300
PRETORIA, 3198 8550 GARNARYON, 108 200
The Royal Mail Steamers of the Union Steam Ship Company, Limited
(under Contract with the Governments of the Cape of Good Hope and Natal)
sail from Southampton every alternate Saturday, calling at Madeira, ami
proceeding thence to South African Ports.
The intermediate Steamers are despatched from Hamburg fortnightly.
alter calling at Rotterdam and Antwer alternately, sailing finally from
Southampton on alternate Saturdays, an taking Passengers and Goods for
South African Ports without transhipment. The Intermediate Steamers call
at Lisbon and Canary Islands, and make a regular service between Germany,
Holland, Belgium, and South Africa, and with the Mail Steamers a. weekly
Service between England and South Africa.
St. Helena is called at, at regular intervals, by the Intermediate Steamers.
Passengers are conveyed to Lisbon, Madeira, and Canary Islands; and
Passengers and Goods to St. Helena. Ascension, Cape Town, Mossel Bay.
Iénysna, Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay), East London, Natal, and Delagoa
ay.
EAST COAST SERVICE. Every six weeks Passengers and Goods are con-
veyed to lnhambane, Port Beira (Pungwe River), Chinde (Zambezi), Quilll-
mane and Mozambique. Return Tickets Issued. Surgeon and Stewardesses
carried. Electric Light, Refrigerators, (izc. Superior Accommodation and
Cuisine. For Handbook and all information apply to :—
TIIE UNION STEAM SIIIP COMPANY, LIMITED,
Canute Road, SOUTHAMPTON, and South African House,
. 94 to 90, Bishopsgate Street Within, LONDON.
18


feAsTLE LINE
ROYAL MAIL SERVICE,
WEEKLY SAILINGS FROM LONDON
[FOR THE GOLD FIELDS OF SOUTH AFBIGA.
LONDON, SOUTHAMPTON, MADEIRA, GRAND CANARY, GAPE COLONY,
NATAL, DELAGOA BAY, MADAGASCAR and MAURITIUS.
Through Bookings from Holland.

THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS OF
THE CASTLE MAIL
PACKETS co., LTD.,
Leave London every alternate Friday, and sail from
Southampton on the following Saturday, with Mails, Pas-
sengers, and Cargo, for Cape Colony and Natal, calling at
Madeira.
Intermediate Steamers are dispatched every 14 days from
London, m'a Grand Canary, thus forming a weekly service
from London.
Passengers and Cargo are taken every four weeks for
Madagascar and Mauritius, and every eight weeks for
St. Helena.
‘Return Tickets Issued for ALL PORTS. Handbook of Information for
Passengers gratis on application.
Loading Berth :—-EAST INDIA DOCK BASIN, BLAGKWALL, E.

Free Railway Tickets are granted from London to Southampton to
Passengers by Royal Mail Steamers.
Experienced Surgeons and Stewardessee on every Steamer. Superior
Accommodation. Excellent Cuisine.
DONALD CURRIE & CO"
19;"? LONDON :*1, 2, 3 and 4 Fenchurch Street, LO.
MANCHESTER :—15 cross Street.
l.lVERPO0L:—25 Castle St. GLASGOW :—40 St. Enoch Square.


THE ABERDEEN LlNEa
DIRECT STEAMERS.
LONDON’? T6 PORTMNATAL.
Taking Goods and Passengers at Through Rates for DELAGOA
BAY, BEIRA, CHINDE and EAST AFRICAN PORTS.
8.5. “Dabulamanzl.” S.S. “Inanda." 5.8. “Ifafa.." 8.5. “Inyonl."
8.8. “Iatabele." S.S. “1ndune.." S.S. “Illovo." “Quathlamba."
Regular Sailings from the Jetty, London Docks, calling at Portland and Tenerifl‘e.
‘ , These s lendid Steamers have magnificent accommodation
for Saloon assengers, and are well found in every respect.
,The Cabins are unusually spacious, and elegantly fitted up
_ > with all requisites, and are lit throughout with Electric Light.
' There are only Two Berths in each Cabin. Surgeon and
stewardess carried. Passengers are specially invited to inspect the accom-
modation of these vessels. or Frelght or Passage apply to the Owners,
J. T. RENNIE, SON 8c CO.,
4: EAST INDIA AVENUE, 12.0.
J. '1‘. RENNIE & BOX, 48 llarlschal Street, Aberdeen.
J. 'l‘. RENNIE a SONS, Durban.
NATAL LINE OF STEAMERS.
LONDON to NATAL Direct.
AND TAKING GOODS AND I'ASSENGERS FOR
DELAGUA BAYLBEIRA, GHINDE 0233.. EAST AFRICAN PORTS.


CONGELLA- UMFULI. UIVILAZI.
PONGOLA. I UIVIHLOTI- ‘ UMONA.
UMBILO- UMKUZI. UIVIZINTO-
SAIL EVERY THREE WEEKS from the East India Docks, calling
alternately at Grand Canary (Las Palmas) and Tenerifl'e.
A regular Monthly Service also between Cape Colony, Madras, and Calcutta.
The Steamers of this Line have splendid accommodation for Cabin Passengers
at moderate rates, are fitted throughout with the electric light, all modern appliances,
and a piano. -
Surgeon'and stewardess carried.
Saloons on deck, two-berth state rooms, of which inspection is invited by
intending passengers.
For freight or passage, apply to the owners,
Bllllllilil, lllllll, 81 Gil, ll 81. Illarg llxa, Ell.
AGENCIES :—
DURBAN, NATAL, .. Klng & Sons. BEIRA,. . .. Poulet, Suter, In 00.
BAP! TOWN, .. .. .. Attwoll & Co. MADIIAS, .. Parry Sr. 00.
DELAGGA BAY, . . . . L. Cohen & Go. BALGUTTA, Anderson, Wrlght, & 00-


‘or NATIONALE BANK:
z.A. nEFuBuEK" 1.15.
(BEPERKT).
Established 7897, and incorporated by Special Decree‘
of the l/ollrsraad.
BANKERS TO THE GOVERNMENT OF THE S.A.R.
,\/~'\,“\'W\J\V\'
Authorised Capital, - - - - - £4,002,000
First Authorised Issue, - - - - 1,002,000
Subscribed Capital, - - - - - 502,000
HEAD OFFICE: PRETORIA.
DR. WILH ELM KNAPPE,
Joint General Managers.
HERMAN MILITZ, -
London Office: 73 Cornhill, E.c"." "
BRANCHES AND AGENCIES :

Barberton. Loureneo Marques. Pietersburg. "
Ermelo. Lydenburg. Potchefstroom. '
Johannesburg. Middelburg. Pretoria.
Vryheid.
General Manager’s Tel. Address: “BANKl-IOUDER’U
Branches Tel. Address: “NATION”.
— . .“n
HE Bank undertakes all kinds of Banking business. Letters
of Credit issued. Accounts kept for Local and Provincialv
Clients. Telegraphic Remittances made. Bills negotiated .and sent,
for collection.

Interest allowed on deposits at rates which may be ascer-
tained on application at the Offices of the Bank.


8
THE BANK OF AFRICA, LTD.
(ESTABLISHED 1819.)
HEAD OFFICE: n3 CANNON STREET, LONDON, E.C.
Subscribed Capital. - - - £7 .000
Paid-up Capital, - - - - 250,000
Reserve Fund, - - - I 10,000
Board of Dirrctors.
AucusT BARSDORF, Esq. ARTI-IuR A. FRAsER, Esq.
W. FLEMING BLAINE, Esq. JAMES ALIsoN STEEL, Esq.
AUSTEN CHAMBERLAIN, Esq., M.P. JoI-IN YOUNG, Esq.
WM. YOUNG, Esq.
JAMEs SIMPSON (Resident at Cape Town) General Manager.
BRANCHES-~Capz Colony.

Aliwal North. I East London. King William's Town. Port Elizabeth.
Cape Town. Graham's Town. Oudtshoorn. Queenstown.
Cradock. Kimberley. Paarl,
N atai.
Durban. I Newcastle. | Pietermsritzburg.
Orange F 122 Stair.
Bethlehem. Fauresmith. Winburg.
Bloemfontein. I-larrismith.
South African Republic.
Barberton. | Johannesburg. Pretoria. | Vrijheid.
East Coast 0 Africa.— ourenqo Marques.
' 3U - BRAN CH 58 I
Jagersi'ontein, O.F.S. I Rouxville, O.F.S.
‘ The Branches of the Bank Discount approved Bills; make Advances on Gold,‘
Diamonds, Produce, Merchandise, and 0t er a proved Securities; grant Drafts,
payable in London, Ca e Colony, Orange Free tate, Transvaal, Dclagoa Bay, and
on Correspondents in ndis, China, Australia, and New Zealand; buy and receive
for Collection Bills of Exchange; issue Letters of Credit; undertake the Purchase
and Sale of Colonial and other Securities and hold them for safe custody; receive
Interest or Dividends as they become due; and conduct all kinds of General Banking
Business. Deposits of Money are received for fixed periods, on terms which may be
ascertained on application at any of the Branches. Gold is purchased or received
on consignment for shipment to London and realisation. An Assay Department,
under charge of a competent Assa er, has been established at Johannesbur , Z.A.R.
Sub-Bran: es: Letters for {a ers ontein should be addressed to Fauresmit Branch


and for Rouxville to Aliwa orth Branch. JAMES SIMPSON, Grneral Manager.
African Banking Corporation, Limited.
\ CAPITAL-
Registered, - - - - £2,000,000
Subscribed 60,629 Shares,‘ £Io_each: - - - _ - :
Called up, [5 per Share on 60,629 Shares, - - 303,145
Reserve Liabi ity, £5 per Share on 60,629 Shares, - - 303,!45
The Number of Shareholders exceeds 1,000.
DIRECTOR5.—EDwARI) WEBB, Esq., Chairman.
JAMEs DALIsoN ALEXANDER, Esq. Sir FRANcIs KNoLLYs, K.C.M.G., C.B.
ALBERT DEACON, Esq. WILLIAM FITZGERALD PiLcI-IER, Esq.
GILBERT FARIE, Esq. TI-IoMAs RUDD, Esq.
ALFRED GILES, Esq. WILLIAM JAMES TI-IoMPsoN, Esq.
Head Offlce t—43 Threadneedle Street, London, E.C.
GEORGE WILLIAM THOMSON, Chief Manager.
BRANCHES IN SOUTH AFRICA-
Chpe Town. Graham's Town. Malmesbury. Port Elizabeth.
Durban. Johannesburg. Molteno. Pretoria.
East London. Kimberley. Montagu. ueen's Town.
Graaff-Reinet. King William's Town. Paarl. mtata.
Worcester.
Current Accounts opened, Deposits received for Fixed Periods, Drafts issued,
Approved Bills of Exchange Purchased and Discounted, and all usual and approved
Banking Business conducted on terms which can be learned on application at any
Oflice of the Bank. R051‘- I..l1“l‘LlI~It.')I-INI General Manager in South Africa.
CAPE Town, 1st january, 1893.


Iii 'NEDERLANDSGHE BANK'iii
BREDIETVEREENIGING
VOOR
. ZUID AFRIKA,
BEPERK'I'.
CAPITAL, - - - - - £200,000.
HEAD OFF/OE : Amsterdam, Heerengracht, No. 123.
HEAD : Pretoria, Church Street East. Post Box, No. 113.

r ‘ AGENCIES.
JOHANNESBURG, Fox Street. Post Box, No. 1330.
POTCHEFSTROOM, Church St. Post Box, No. 124.
Telegraphic Address 1 “ VASCOGAMA ”.

Bills discounted. Advances made against Security. Drafts bought
and sold; and Letters of Credit issued on South Africa,'Europe‘,
' r. and other Countries. I a. ‘ ‘
»—_—o<-o——
“-
'- n
PRETORIA_
l-lypotheek Maatschappij.
CAPITAL, rm - - Fl. 1,000,000.
Makes Advances on Fixed Properties to a maxi-
mum of two-thirds of the Market Value.
For terms and other information apply at any of the Ofiices of the
NEDERLANDSGIIE BANK EN GREDIETVEREENIGING
VOOR
lull] AFRIKA, "I THE TRANSVAAL.


in: NATAL BANK, LIMITED.
Established 1864; Incorporated 1859, and now Incorporated under
" The Natal Bank, Limited, Law, 1888".
BANKERS TO THE GOVERNMENT OF NATAL.
Authorised Capital, - - - £2,000.00!)
Subscribed apitai, - - - 878,! I0
Paid up can tai. - - - - 284,237 iOs.
Reserve Fund, - - - - 35,000
LoNDoN BANKERS: LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK, LTD.

B HAN OH I‘ u
Natal. South African Republic.
Charlestown. Newcastle. Barberton. {Johannesburg
Durban. Pietermaritzburg. Ermelo. ietersburg.
Ladisrnith. Heidelberg. Pretoria.
London Branch: 156 and 757 Leadenha/I Street, E.C.
Head Oflice: Pietermaritzburg, Natal.

This Bank makes lidvances on negotiable Securities,
receives Deposits at interest and undertakes generally every
description of Banking and Exchange Business. -, ,
jAMES MACKELLAR, General Manager.
Aliwal Norih, Cape Colony.
CRITERION HOTEL,
Opposite the Court House, Post and Telegraph Oflices, and in close
proximity to the Park and Public Library.





The Proprietors have spared no expense in making this the
Best and most comfortable Hotel for Families, Commercial
Travellers, and the Public generally,
As it is quietly situated, and has Ladies‘ Private Sitting Rooms away from
- the noise of the Bars. ~ .-

Wagoncltl's and Spider: meet all arriving and departing Trains Free,
and are always at the disposal of Visitors.
GOOD BILLIARD TABLE, by Thurston.

LARGE SAMPLE ROOM \lV—lTl-I SHELVES, 6“:-
TERMS MODERATE.


Cape Town.

ilOYAL
CAPE TOWN,
7 PLEIN STREET-
JOHN ALEXANDER, - -


Proprietor.
' . The oldest-established, /
- - . '1
most central situation in 6*’ i
the City; closeto Gardens,
Railway Station, Govern-


ment Offices, 810.


g“;
CUISINE OF THE HIGHEST CLASS.

- ERY extensive additions and alterations have recently been
efl‘ected, which combine to render it the most commodious
and convenient, as well as the most reasonable Hotel in the town.
Mr. Alexander, or his representative, comes on board all steamers
as soon as possible after anchoring. To avoid annoyance and imposi-
tion, visitors and passengers are respectfully requested to communicate
with him _or his authorised representative, when all baggage will be
taken charge of and landed, thus saving much trouble and incon-
venience.

Pelt om“, Telegraph Oilicieflgephone on the premises, under super-
vision of Government Ofllcials.

Telegraphic or Cable Address: " ROYALIST, CAPETOWN ",


18' Cape Town (Hotels in the Suburbs).
MORTIMER

- (Late DRAKE’S), ~.
High-class Boarding House, WYNBERG.
HIS well-known Establishment, speciall adapted for the reception of Families
or those requiring rest, and half-an- our from Ca Town Terminus, is
situated within three minutes’ of Wynberg Station. Yfi
pine trees, which afford a grateful shelter from the heat of the summer sun. The
Grounds, which are large, contain three full-sized Tennis Courts. The Rooms are
spacious and lofty and afi'ord every home comfort. Propfl'chess, Mrs. J. BUYSKES.
s surrounded by lofty

ROYAL gene-TEL,
ONSIDERABLE Improvements have been carried out in connection with
this well~known Family and Commercial Hotel. There are now TWO
SELECT BARS, SMOKING ROOM, and LOUNGE, newly-fitted,
Billiard Room, Lodiel’ Room, m., ho. Firlt-olou Accommodation
> for Boarders. Bath Room, Stoblin‘, he.
HOTEL CHARGES, 7s. 6d. PER DAY.

As these Hotels are quickly accessible from the City
they have been placed alongside those in the Town
itself.
Advertisers having Agencies should note that they are
indexed under each Agency. The Writer will be much
obliged by an omission being pointed out to him.

Cape Town.
THE OLD FIR TREE.
LADIES and GENTLEMEN visiting Cape Town should not fail to call and
see the Grand Dis lay of New and Seasonable Goods, suitable for Cape Town
verything marked in plain figures and at London prices.

and Up-country wear.
Visitors we are sure will be suited by calling on
A. I-IILLIARD,
Under the Old Fir Tree, CHURCH SQUARE.


Cape Town. 19
William Duncan 81 00.,
DRAPERS,
'HOSIERS. OUTFITTERS, AND
CARPET WAREHOUSERS.

Direct Importers of
High-class Dress Materials.
Millinery and Fancy Goods.
Mantles, Jackets, &.c.
Gloves, Laces, and Ribbons.
Ladies’ and Children’s Goods of every Description.
Manchester Goods and Irish Linens.
Hosiery and Underclothing.
Curtains and Art Furnishings.
Carpets and Linoleums, 8m, &c., 8w.
Dressmaking and Millinery in all their Branches.‘
i1.‘ Special (ientlemen’s Department with full
Stock of CIentlemen’s Goods.

SOLE AGENTS FOR
Dr. Jaeger’s Sanitary Woollen Underolothing, &0.,
For Gentlemen, Ladies, and Children.
PRICE LIST POST FREE.
SPECIAL POSTAL ORDER DEPARTMENT.
Parcels forwarded by post, &.c., to every part of South Africa.

Patterns, Price Lists, Self-measurement Forms, am, Post Free.
as a 10 ADDERLEY & 2 SIIORTMARKET srnssrs,
CAPE TOWN.


Cape Town.
il. 0. JUTA & 00.,
COLONIAL MUTUAL BUILDING,
Adderley Street, .,
CAPE TOWN.
Branch, - - - - - - JOHANNESBURG-

Publishers, Booksellers, Stationers.
N'\'\.'\-'\.\\'\.\ -
Regular Weekly Importation of English, Dutch, Ifrench,
and German .
MAGAZINES, NEWSPAPERS,- AND PERIODICALS.
Sole Agents by Appointment for the Sale of Admiralty Charts.
Depot of the S.P.C.K. Publications.

1
Publishers to Cape of Good Hope University.
Publishers Educational News of South Africa. (Subscription
5s. per annum.)
Publishers South African Medical Journal. (Subscription 21s.
per annum.)
Publishers Supreme Court, High Court, and Eastern District
Court Law Reports.
Medical, Law, Educational Works.
Books of Travel, Biography, &c., Gtc.
w
THE LARGEST STOCK IN SOUTH AFRICA.
Catalogues Free.
J. C. JUTA 8t (10.1


Cape Town,
Halter BI‘UlhBFS Walton
BOOKSEhhERS, PUBhISl-IERS,

srnnonERs, and ARTISTS’ conouRMEn,
lddelleg Street, clplz Tlllllll,
Hold one of the
LARGEST STOGKS OF BOOKS
SOUTH AFRICA,
: Which is keptup to date by the weekly addition of all the
Principal
NEW BOOKS.
Catalogues and Periodical Lists of New Books will be
regularly sent post free to any applicant.
SOLE AGENTS FOR
yALLLS’S PHOTOGRAPHS
0F CAPE scENERY.
Acknowledged to be the Best.
/


Ceres, South Africa. '“ 25
The Ceres Sanatorium
(Private Family Hotel)
Is under English Mans ement and facing the High Street, which is well known-es
beIng one oft e prettiest and shadiest avenues In South Africa.

The accommodation, which comprises the usual sitting-rooms, do.,
will be found most comfortable. The long and spacious stoep provides a
most agreeable lounge even in the hottest weather. .
Hot and Cold Water Baths, Tennis Court, &c.
Consulting Physician, DR. ZAHN. APPLY TO THE MANAGER.

FAURE'S BOARDING HOUSE,
. MAIN STREET,‘ CEREAS.
HIS Establishment, which is situated just opposite the Post Otficeand close
to the Library, 8zc., ofi'ers every accommodation to those wishing to make a
stay in this well-known and picturesque health resort.

The comfort of guests is specially attended to by the Proprietor.
—_ - _ 1
Moderate charges and reductions made for a lengthened stay.
Charlestown, Natal.
J. J. PRATT 80 SON,
GENERAL DEALERs,
FORWARDING AND COMMISSION AGENTS‘,
Charlestown, Natal. . ,
Agents for UNION 8.8. COMPANY.
Agents for UNION ASSURANCE SOCIETY.


..‘
Said the Prince to the Duke, “What Hotel are you
going to when we get to Cape Town ? ”
, - ‘I. ,. Said the Duke to the Prince, “ To an hotel where
they keep Taddy’s Myrtle Grove Y'I‘obacoo and
Cigarettes, of course.”
_, Said the Prince to the Duke, ‘tWhy, msn,.they
keep them in every hotel in South Africa.”


28 Durban, Natal.
‘TA TRY—i FRANK STEVENS’ POPULAR VIOTORIA BOOTS-
TALLY-HO HATS-
TRY
FRANK STEVENS‘ FAMED RESPONSIBLE BOOTS
AND TERAI HATS.
8peclalties.—THE FEATHERwEioHT Boo'r AND HAT. THE SALISBURY CAI".
THE STANLEY HAT.



FRANK STEVENS’ STORES ARE NOTED FOR
LADIES’, GENTS‘, and CHILDREN'S BOOTS and SHOES of Superior
Quality at Reasonable Figures. '
THE STOCK is one or THE MOST VARIED IN SOUTH AFRICA.


:GEIITS’ HATS in Hard and Soft Felts; STRAW HATS, to. A Large and
Ynried Stock oi’ Cape for Boating, Cricket, Football, Cycling,
and Travelling.
:3‘ >
FRANK STEVENS
HATTER AND BOOTER,
D'JRBAI, MARITZBURG, LADISHITH, NEWCASTLE, OHARLEBTOWN,
HEIDELBERG, JOHANNESBURG, PRETORIA,
' HARRIBllI'l‘l-l, YRYHEID.
\‘d
\‘l‘


Durban, Natal. 2'?
c‘ The Cornerv @-
>.+..<_
FINEST SELECTION OF
HIGH-CLASS GOODS
'lN SOUTH AFRICA.‘

@ONDUC'I‘ING their business on a strictly CASH basis

in Buying and Selling, and being Direct'lmporters,( I
buying only from the actual makers, Ferguson & Company are
in a position to ol‘fer better value than any other House in
South Africa.
A Large Assortment of Specialties of the oouititliryi,
TIGERS’, LIONS’, AND OTHER GLAWS,
NUGGETS, &c.,
MOUNTED IN- VARIOUS FDRMS. DIAMONDS, Kw.
FEBGUSUNNBDMPANY,
JEWELLERS
(Wholesale and Retail),
THE conmzn, DURBAN, NATAL


Durban, N afal .

ROYAL HOTEL;
Smith Street, DU RBAN,
S unrivalled for situation, being in a retired and agreeable
position opposite the Public Gardens, close to the Railway
Station, Town. Hall, Post and Telegraph Offices, Library, and
all the principal business houses. The Salt Water Swimming
and Turkish Baths are within two minutes’ walk.

Io expense has been spared to make this the best Hotel in the Colony,
and Ylsltors will find every comfort, as well as first class attend-
ance, which is ensured by a. large stall’ at carefully trained waiters.
, ,, i ,_—A_
The Establishment is provided with cool and pleasant Reading‘
Drawing, Writing, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms,
with spacious open-air lounges, &c.
Under the same Management.
THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL
which has just been refitted in the most elaborate style.
This Hotel faces the Passenger Landing Wharf, is only a
short distance from the Point Railway Station, an especial
convenience to those wishing to remain in the neighbourhood
of the Harbour.

It commends uninterrupted Views of the Bay, Berea, Blufi' and Outer Anchorage,
and enjoys all the advantages of the fresh breezes coming
across the water.

Tram Cars run past the door every few minutes.

An experienced manager is always on the premises, and assists
Visitors to either hotel in forwarding or landing their baggage.
H Proprietors, F. L. JONSSON & SON.


Durban, Natal.
4,
1.

BizLoRnvE HOTEL
West Street, DURBAN.
r-
t
,0
Standing in the middle of its own grounds fronting on both
’ " v West and Smith Streets.
Close to the Town Hall, Post and Telegraph Oflices, Public Library
and Gardens, and nearly opposite the New Public Swimming
and Turkish Baths, tickets for which can be had in the Hotel.
Tram Cars pass the door every fifteen minutes from the West End to the Harbour
and vice vcrsa, and an omnibus meets all Steamers and Trains
free of charge to visitors.
AIRY BEnRooMs, BILLIARD, DRAw|Nc,‘ANn_'
SMOKING Rooms, &c. -‘
..
ALSO
The Railway Hotel,
LADYSIVIITH.

1
This first-class Hotel, situated close to the. Station, is most
convenient for passengers breaking their journey
at this important junction.
His long experience in Durban, Ladysmith, and elsewhere,
enables the Proprietor not only to meet all the possible wants of
his Guests, but ensures to them the maximum of comfort which
can be obtained in any Hotel.
D. HAMILTON, Durban and Ladysmith.


Durban, N afal.
flHEHOTEL METROPOLE,
.\ '..- DURBAN, NATAL.


@mpn'elon - - ‘Z .4 Bmuin.
situated in Smith Street, and, whilst enjoying the
privacy of a Gentleman’s Mansion, is within Five
Minutes’ walk of the Public Offices, Post and Telegraphic
Offices, Public Baths and Railway Station. The Tram
line tov'the‘Point and Berea passes within a few'yards of
' ' " " " the Hotel.
él-IIS Hotel, which is under new management, is
harge and liiry Bedrooms; Sitting and Drawing-
rooms for hadies and Gentlemen ; Reading
and Smoking Rooms, 8m.
_. __‘___. ,
OONVEYANOES MEET ALL TRAINS &. STEAMERS.
_._§.___
CUISINE and LIQUORS UNEXCEPTIONABLE.


East London, Cape Colony. 31

THE LARGEST HOTEL lN THE EASTERN PROVINCE.

EASIII‘ LONDON, SOUTH AFRICA.
BOORMAN’S HOTEL.
T he nearest Hotel to the Railway
Station and Landing Jetties.
___ The House offers every facility for
Families and Travellers.
' A Wagonett'e or Spider meets all arriving
and departing Trains and Steamers,
and is available for Parties. Two or




Four~in-hand.
' The Hotel contains a. large propor-
tion of Bingle-Boddod Rooms.
New Single Stall stalling,
unequalled in the Easz‘ern Province.
European Groomr.
BILLIARD TABLE. BEST LIQUORS. BAGGAGE CARTS
0R WAGGON 'ro ANY PART or ‘m: Town.
'A A. W. BOORMAN, Proprietor.
THE
BUFFALU GRAND HOTEL
EAST LONDON.
_0—
PA'I'BONIZED BY THE ELITE 0!‘ THE COLONY. ‘
_O__
The above having been entirely Reiurnished and Decorated
" k throughout is now open as a
First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel,
Replete with every Comfort. (Splendid Sea View.)

CUISINE UNDER EFFICIENT MANAGEMENT-
WAGONETTE MEETS ALL TRAINS AND STEAMERS.
. WM. J. REED, Proprietor and Manager,
Telegraphic Address: “ DEER ". KIMBERLEY AND jOI-[ANNESBERG


England. .

Yr. BHIGG & sons;
23 St. James’s Street,

, .1 LONDON, s.w,
7'6‘; ———>m< , ill-'-
Mnnurjlcrunlns or _ ~ I‘
UMBRELLAS,
WALKING STICKS, ‘
AND WHIPS.
lunusr'mfizn cnmnoauas wnn Pmcss Poi; m
GOODS Fonwnnnzn
0N RECEIPT OF ONE SHlhllING.

PHOTOGRAPHS OF MADEIRA
in?“ CANARY ISLANDS,“
BY J. H. T. ELLERBECK, LIVERPOOL,
Are the only emnplele set published. May be purchased nit all the Hotels in
the Islands, from the Publisher, or {mm
ELLERBECK BROS" 54 Bold Street, LIVERPOOL-
a
' ' ' ' Lantern Slides, m., 620., from the Publisher.


‘2 England.
llalal Land and linlunizalinrlinmpang, Limilali!‘
DIRECTORS :—
HENRY KI.\IBER, Esq., M.P., Chairman.
J. BEBGTHEIL, 1184]., P. HENWOOD, Esq., J. H. HALE, Esq,
J. A. MULLENS, Esq.
Oiilces in London, 41 Threadnesdie St., E.C. F. G. PATTRIOK, Seeretary.
Oiiices In ilstai, l Isrltet Sq., Durban. 1. W. RYOROFT, Gen. Iana‘sr.
The Company has Farms and other Properties, in every County of the
Colony (except Alfred County), for sale on easy terms as to yment, or for
leasing or letting. Also Business and Residential Premises n the priuei
Towns and Townships. The Company also lends money on mortgage, and un er-
talee Estate and Agency Business. ' I'm‘ ,.'i'; in. -:i a; T'r'r
s. a. is. an 5; 4...,
15 ml 16 M éaimwirers,


. , . .1
Undertake the Sale and Purr/zase of Prva'ute of
all Kinds.
Other English Advertisements will be found on pages, A, I,‘ E,
1, 2, 3, 4, 39, 40, 88.
Ji.‘|.:


Harrismith, Orange Free State.

1W‘
.-..?'l" . v .
I HARRISMjITH. '. ',

l' I.'-;- '(
Asa Health Resort Harrismith ‘cannot
' N’ be surpassed. It is 5250 feet above":
._I_
the Sea Level.

THERE‘ilRE UPSTAIRS ROOMIS SPECIALLY ARRANGED
FUR INVALI_D_S. AND VISITORS SEEKING HEALTH.“
'.I-'~ -,_
I‘. i’. R. m —_ _.___~__ .._ ‘fl
BATH ROOMS,
'7 Sl-IIQWER,BA‘.I'HI=ARRANQED.v ’ ,'. . I‘. ' ' v

.il'igifalye and rife/(y Qz'lu'ny- Foam.
LIVERY' AND BAIT STABLES. I '
".711: I I .11!-
llorses and carriages for Hire.
WAGONETTE FOR PICNIC PARTIES.

Z'lze $10‘ and Z’z'llz'ard-ffloom are entz'regy
separated from flee Hotel.
C. G. BUCK, Proprietor.


Howick, Natal. "9
i “all i is f-‘ This (last has a leasen't cent: the air - .9” .-
H q. MAN tf . . . A“. - v. .3
u- 3-i a 	ho‘tzuazxzza'sseamt“ ‘ a; r"!
cAs'nisHéii‘EL
Huazm iii-IT '=.| )"HWOH
Under ‘this personal sqperyision .of Proirrietor ‘and Proprietress.
200 yqrd‘sjrom the Umgeni Falls. ' I I


mat-1'11 ‘i mmuT
flISITORS t'd'th'is“ ‘well-known Health ‘Resort and Family
I Hotel, which is charmingly situated on the lb'anksof
the Umgeni, can rely on every Home Comfort, Good Cuisine,v
Lofty Upstair Bedrooms, Private vSuites of Rooms, Bath-
Rooms, &c. ‘ ' " “
_-.=wfil'~‘fie- wmm'm '0/ ‘flak/at i
Special attention given to Invalids and Convalescents. A covered conveyance
meets all day trains, and, by arrangement, the night mails, at Howick Railway
?Station! is some two miles from the village, of ,bg‘lomk.
I it ‘L e -* @B"@°“=-~'*"2i£mie:9:"s 9" "ml ‘DwaewThe Umgem Falls
Have a. sheer drop of 864 feet, and are the second hlghest unbroken fall
in the world, being more than double the height of the Niagara
Falls, which are 158 feet deep.
7‘, __V V________ 7
‘hi——
.,i n _ in, THE KARKLOOF FALLS,
Which are situated ‘some ten miles from Howick, are accessible
by a drive through one of the prettiest districts in the Colony.
They consist of a succession of three falls, the highest of which
is 300 feet.‘ For grandeur and magnificence of scenery they
"'- ‘ L"surpass‘perhaps anything in Natal. - \

-"‘-1"In‘|ns:-—1o. Bo- Pan DAY, on £2 25. Per: Week.)

R ilterfi-f ‘egaphle lddreln— .
“ “snails, HOWICK”. W. SIMONS, Proprietor.
'71
-4


Johannesburg, S.A.R. 51
HEATH’S PRESIDENT HOTEL,
Pritchefld ,Street, J Ol-lllI‘INESBURG.

I
- t. ,
.. . . a - .,_ .

HIS well-known Establishment, which is acknowledged
to be the best} arranged virr'lzhe' Town, is most con-
veniently situated within easy distance of the principal Offices
in Johannesburg.
First-class accommodationsfora Iargelnumber of Gdests, and every
efi‘ort exerted for their comfort and satisfaction.
Cuisine of the highest class. Large and lofty dining-room and spacious suite of
I I ,I' \sitting-roomsfon both Ladies and ‘Gentlemen. ;, '- ' '
; T I Personally luperintended by the Proprietor,
n '1 J . ml ‘ ; _ .
W. HEATH.
{GOLD ‘FIELDS HOTEL,
lioileday Street, JOHHNNESBURG.

Conveniently situated at the South of the Town, within two
minutes’ walk of the Exchange, Public BuiIdingSLand
Tramway. '
Special accommodation‘ for BUSINESS GENTLEMEN' and BAGHELORB.
Run on some lines as Rand Club.
This Hotel is noted for its excellent Cuisine and Attendance. The Wines are
imported‘directby the Proprietors, and the Cigars consist of the finest Brands.
. ' : ‘ - . '_ 1 > 2 7 ' -'
The Bedrooms are all well ventilated and furnished with Messrs.
W. Walker & Son's best walnut wood suites. All beds
with spring mattresses.
HOCKING & PATERSDON, PROPRI‘ETORS
(Late) of Port Elizabeth Club and Rand‘ Club.
P50 I. BQX- 64'7- ,. _;


52 Johannesburg, SA .12.
TH E
NORTH WESTERN
liCDTWELq
Johannesburg.
I-llS, the [largest and most [luxuriously Furnished
Hotel in South llfrica, has just been opened.
It contains Magnificent Dining, Billiard, Coffee, and
Reception Rooms, and 100 Bedrooms.
Terms from 12s. 6d. per Day.
SPECIAL TERMS FOR LARGE PARTIES
AND RESIDENT BOARDERS.
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT
THE HOTEL.

Post Office Box, x792, johannesburg.
Telegraphic Address: “ Singleton“.


54 Johannesburg, 51.—LR.
HOFFMANN BioKELl;
JOHANNESBURG.
I.
P.O. Box, 54.- Telegraphic Address: “ BICKELL ".
FonwARm-Nc', RECEIVING, COMMISSION, "Ann
GENERAL AGENTS.
All orders will ‘have prompt and careful attention. Goods
forwarded to all parts of the world with quickness, despatch,
and at the 'cheapest rates. 7 A
Goods Stored and Customs Cleared.
Consignments received and disposed of to best advantage.
Kimberley, Cape Colony. z.~
CENTRAL HOTEL‘,
KIMBERLEY.
Yllltorl to Kimberley should stay at the Central Hotel.
; HIS OLD—ESTABLISHED FIR$T.-CLA5$
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL .HQTEL,
situated in the very centre of the Town, adjacent to the best
Business Establishments, Banks, Theatre, Post and Telegraph
Offices, and an easy distance from the Railway Station, is
renowned for its comfort and convenience. The Apartments,
Smoking and Reading Room (fitted with electric bell), Bath
Rooms, &c., are all well appointed. -
PORTERS MEET ALL TRAINS.
The Proprietor and his Wife spare no pains to make Yisitorl
thoroughly comfortable. Moderate Charges.
R. A. FINLAYSON, I’roprietor.


Madeira. ‘K's
Madeira If Manu‘factumrs.
.— and more varied assortment to choose from and for - ’
considerably less money at
THE‘ BURLINGTON ARCADE
" "' - (FERREIR'AFG'F‘ JARDIM) ‘ ' i i
just below the Cathedral and at the end of the firs; turning‘pn q
. t < .
' right all‘ you come up from the

EH15 vEstablishment is the best known and'most widely
' patronised in Madeira. "Ail'th'ose who ‘know Funchal
make apoint of visiting the"“vBurlington Arcade ’-’ because
they are sure to get the latest Novelties. and the-best Work»
manship.v ., . . .
Chairs, Baskets, Embroidery, Shawls, Lace,
lioyleys, Curios, Walking Sticks, lnlald
Work, Guitars, Jewellery, Pottery,
' ‘&0., 8m.
. ,Orders from South Africa, England or elsewhere promptly executed on recei t
of Bank Draft or Postal Order. Wicker Work’and goods of all sorts secure
packed and placed on board ship. Illustrated Catalogues and Price lists on uppin-
cation. South African or English Bank Notes accepted.
Any small balance between the amount 0! order and the money re-
mitted can be leit to F. 8: J. to fill up. 'i‘heyhave a. reputation to main;-
tain end are determined to please their‘ clients. Bazaars or Fsncy Shops
should send £5, £10, £30 or £50, for one of F. & J.’s
‘"WORLIJv BENOVIIHED LUCKYv TUB ASSORTED CONSIGNIVIENTS."

.--‘1:r,' -. . 1."?- ' row-i
ection with the above
JiiiIN ~<PAYNE -& 80",“,
,. ,, The oldest established English House in ".1,
' Madeira for
WINES AND SPIR
m CASK 0R BOTTLE.
I,_)
In conn
ITS.’
Delivered Free‘in an? part 0 vthevUnlted Kingdom ‘or F. 0; B. for
' I ' ~ oath A rica and elsewhere. ' '


a Madeira.
MADEIRA
J’o‘nes’ Hotel Bella Vista.
Lfi'opn'elon - {aye/re @ jolted.
Patronlsod by Prlnoe GOOI'Q'O 0f "GIGS and the ingllsh lloblllty.



HIS beautifully situated Hotel stands 150 feet above the
sea level, and commands magnificent views of the
surrounding mountains, the town at its foot, and the whole
expanse of the bay with its shipping. The whole building has
recently been renovated, the most important additions being
25 bedrooms, new dining and smoking rooms, and a balcony
outside the drawing-room. The gardens, which now include a
capital tennis court, have also been greatly extended, and these
now form one ofthe chiefcharms ofthc place; for the advantages
of residence at an hotel surrounded by several acres of level
ground where the whole surrounding country is hilly, not to
say mountainous, are, in the matter of open air exercise, too
obvious to need particularisation. The whole of the sanitary
arrangements have also been thoroughly overhauled and are
new subject to periodical inspection, while the rooms are
generally lofty and well ventilated. Another recommendation
it possesses is the fact of its being at once completely out of the
town and yet within an easy walk of it (only seven minutes).
‘ TARIFF. PER DIEM.
Board and Residence, according to room
1‘ selected (special terms for children), - 8/- to 1.4/-
Private Sitting Room, - - - - - 6/- to 10/-
Board and Residence for Servants, - - 4/6
Special arrangements for prolonged residence.

The days of arrival and departure are charged as one day; no deduction is made
for occasional absence.

The Proprietor of the Bella. Vista Hotel meets all the Steamer! calling at
lndelro, and will be pleased to relieve Passengers 0! all trouble
with regard to polling luggage through the Customs, to.


Madeira. 61
MADEIRA.—Mean Winter Temperature, 61 degrees. ,'
' .. nnual .. 66 .. ‘r’
Absolute freedom from Dust.
REID’S HOTELS-murmurs 1850.
By appointment to lLRJ-l. The Duke of Edinburgh.
SANTA CLARA HOTEL-—" Admirably situated, overlooking Funchal,
fine view of the Mountains and Sea.”— Vide Randall's Guide to Madeira.
REID'S NEW HOTEL.—~Situated on the Cliffs to the west of Funchal, on
the New Road, overlooking the Sea, grand view of the Mountains. Sea Bathing
and Boating. Bungalow in Hotel Garden.
CARMO HoTELo—ln sheltered central position.
[M PERIAL HOTELI—Fine views of sea.
HORTAS HOTEL.—German spoken.
SAfPld'll" dANNA HOTEL-—Goocl centre for scenery of the interior and north
0 san .
These FIRST-CLASS HOTELS atl'ord ever comfort for families and
travellers. Excellent Cuisine and Choice Wines. ennis Courts, large Gardens,
Baths, Reading and Smoking Rooms, English and German News pers. Billiards.
The SANITARY arrangements have been carried out by the anner Sanitation
Co. of London. All Steamers met.
First-Gian Return Tickets from LONDON, SOUTHAMPTON, and
LIVERPOOL, from £15.
Frequent communication with the Canary Islands. T
Telegraphic Address: "Reid, Funchal "- Pamphlets free—
apply to F. PAssmoRE, l24 Cheapside, LondonI E-O.
Proprietor—WILLIAM REID.
Grand Canary.
Quiney’s “ English” Hotel, Plaza de San Bernardo, has Palmas, Grand Canary.
The oldest established English Hotel in the
Canary Islands.
Sanitary Arrangements on the boot Earth System. FINE OPEN POII'I’IOII.
Large Garden, Spacious Oirrrldorodwlllllard, IMOKIIII, Houdini
ooms, .
Under the same Management:
Quiney’s “Bella Vista” Hotel,
IN THE MONTE.
1200 feet above the sea, accommodating about ‘30 Guests, and allowing of an easy
and delightful change for those requiring bracing mountain air.
Distance from one Hotel to the other 6 miles (one hour), along the boot and
most picturesque road In the Island.
Lawn Tennis Grounds, Extensive Gardens, Magnificent Views of
sea and Mountain, and situated in close proximity
to the far-famed Crater of Bandama.
Tel. Address: “ Quincy, Las Palmas ". All Steamers met by the Proprietor.


.IMiddelbu'rg, Cape Colony. j’
w' -_r( ‘


- v, DEQLPT‘RIN
.lifillfijfiflbllry, Books, 'lbbaccol, Pipes, Jewellery, Toys, Fancy Goodl,
- ,~Grooeflel,~hmy Sweet‘, Biscuits, Garden Seeds, Lampware,
Saddlery, Glassware, Crockeryware, Hardware, kc.
AND BUY‘E'R 9F‘ w~-";: {Q (!-_,-q_’__
r .
Ostrich Feathers, Grainy-Bitter; Eggs,-
‘LQCENSED'QHEMIST AND Dnucqqr‘ , 4 _ ,
- - * - Mossel-Brig, Cape Colimyjf' '-
I‘ I.’ ‘ I’
Mossel Bay. 1'?!“~M0$SGI Bay.
Tl_l'e finest Ihealth rqsortjn Southern Africa. “
-.-| : ~-_r. ‘ ‘- ' ".2?
-11|-
L .‘I ,,

1:3.“ . THE W0 Ewmagmspm, ma
ii slam: J8;jfifUfi10n”
V - - .
-._._ H FACING THE -8IA, ~~~ »
LEM. wonwmomiovw wmmwnvl r
-P5s§én'g5ers met on arrival’fiyjstégmer or I>o'st'-E(§Iartl.-v Carts
.3 21,," , - ‘ providedlatlény time. 2
.r - .- . ~ %‘__-,_—~~nsu In’? .
Roon'm wi't/ll'Bbard ; Rooms wit‘ho‘uf ‘Board. Special} arrangements
35°‘) ‘ far Fiziriilies. to be"a.§c¢_r_tglhed on @zpplicatjop ta,-
.:>;;;nfl "- MACKKYIEMandgQPJnNP-LiL1H

'membliu l’ddrm: '“lAcKu'n; .H mm?’
'MA‘SDNI‘C "'“H‘OTE L,

“9°41.$999!?WW§EE£¥$R€JE§€€°®€. “"8”-
First-class‘BiIli'ard‘ (Table, with Perfect’ Low New Model
.. .. Cfishiow
CARTS AND Honacs- ALWAYS on HIRE-
O. M. 'i-l a‘: 7m} Proprighor agd . Manager.


Mossel Bay, Cape Town. 8‘:

WILLIAM HARRIES’,‘
MossEL' BAY.
IIHNDING, SHIPPING AND FORWHRDING HGENT.
Goods cleared through the Customs and
forwarded to their destination
at moderate charges.
Oudtshoorn, Cape Colony.
Queen’s Hotel,”
Queen_’s,- Street, .OUDTSHOORN.
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.
Personal Superintenden'ce. '
Every Comfort Guaranteed.
.__'_.0.__._.
Special Terms according to arrangement.



' 1' . 1 ._‘0——‘- ,
Bath ‘Room, with a constant supply of water.
This is the only house ‘in the Colony where "‘ Red Lights ”
can be procured four the Cango Caves, which are within
' an easy drive.
CAR'rs ‘ALwAYs ON I-IIRE.
AERATED WATERS MANUFACTURED ON THE PREMISES.
JOHN BAWDEN, Proprietor.

Chemists, Druggists dnd ~Aerated Water
Manufacturers. "
Importers of Pure Drugs andv Chemicals’, ~Toilet
Requisites, Patent Medicines, &c., &c.
man‘ STREET,‘ oub‘rsHooRu.
22


Oudtshoorn, Cape Colowy.

‘fine. MASONIG "om,
-|. i‘ uh"- :u-J'H-u ‘v- "2'5
AI, I afldfdfiwmquqzqr I_I
m. , .r Ans. l‘lADli-IELB, Manager.
A‘ '.A
v' ‘v
This Firet-Class Family and Commercial Hotel is situated in
a central position near the Templars’ Hall.
Private Sitting Rooms and Dinners, Wines, Cigars,
‘( &c., of the choicest quality. 5.;
I.
I
Table d'HOte and Luncheons. Billiards.
Livery Stables. Bath Rooms.
Tank Water.
‘ferme Moderate. W. PICKHRD, Proprietor.
IAUTE, & ALCOCK,.

.nmiaci [MPORTERS am) GENERiih maacnnms,
WHOliESHliE END RE'l'illIl.
Drapers, Clothiers, Grocers, ironmongers, and
Hardware Merchants\.
TAiLORING AND DRESSMAKING in ALL THEIR
BRANCHES- ,
All kinds of Seasoned TIMBER kept in Stock.
All kinds of Colonial Produce BOUGHT and $0110.
some or JOHN AND ulnar smears,
“ " O'udtshoorn.


Oudtshoom, Cape Colony. 61
U L. FIELD 8c 00., “
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL MERCHANTS,

CORNER OF CHURCH AND
QUEEN STREETS,
OUD'I‘SIEIOORN.
General Stock of Merchandise at the Lowest Market
Rates.
Paterson w“ Matchett,
CARRIAGE, CART, 6. WAGON BUILDERS.

Orders promptly and carefully executed and forwarded
to any part of South Africa.
Good workmanship Guaranteed. All Timber used Seasoned
on the Premises. Moderate Prices.
GOLD Medal, Oudtlhoorn, 1891. TWO GOLD and ONE
SILVER. Medal at Ifimberley, 1892, awarded for
HIGHEST HIERI'I‘ in Exhibition.


Oudtshoorn, Cape Colony.
EANEU mama BllMPA-NY, Ltd,
OUDTSHOORN.
P-O- BOX [7- Tel. Address :—“CANGO"-




MANUFACTURERS OF
Cigars, Tobacco, m

Q/GN. Snuff, 8: Sheep Dip.

Kmiiéééiéé bfiééTL
Du 'rorr's PAN ROAD.
Call and inspect our Manufactures.


Oudtshoorn, Cape Colony. 89
K. SGHENCK,
FORMERLY GOVERNMENT TOBACCO EXPERT,
TOBACCO MHNUFHGTURER, OUDTSHOORN.

Best Colonial Brands of Smoking Tobacco.
Machine-twisted Roll Tobacco.
Fermented Leaf Tobacco olfered to the Trade.


Paarl, Cape Colony.


ESTABL—ISHED 1350.
Situated in the centre of Paarl and close to the Banks, Town
Hall, Post and Telegraph Ofiices, &c.
This Hotel, which has recently changed hands, has been refitted
throughout at considerable expense, and will be found most comfortable
and convenient.
Families and Ladies will find it a true Home, whilst the requirements ofCommercial
Travellers are specially studied.
Large and Airy Bed, Sitting, and Smoking Rooms,
- Billiard Room, e'tc.
Baths and Lavatories inside the Hotel. The Choicest Brands
of Liquors and Cigars. Good Stabling.
Carts to meet an Trains.
In addition to the romantic walks with which this well-known summer resort
abounds, good fishing and swimmin are to be had within five minutes’ distance.
Visitors to South Africa should not in to spend a few days and see for themselves
the lovely surroundings, vineyards, orchards, and flower gardens of the “ PAARL ".
'l'el. Address: “ ROYAL, PAARL”. Proprietor, J. SOLOMON.
Mrs. P. F. de Villiers’ Boarding House,
ZEEDERBERG SQUHRE, PllllRlt.
Vl‘I-lOSE who wish to make a stay in Paarl will find the above-mentioned house
_ pleasantly situated and most comfortable in every respect. Special attention
15 paid to the cooking, and an excellent table is always kept.
Bedrooms large and airy, and personal superintendenee by
the Proprietren.
Terms moderate. Arrangements made by the week or
month. Stabling for twelve horses.


12 Pietermar'itzburg, Natal.
JOHN T. EDWARDS,
NURSERYMAN, SEEDSMAN', ANb FLORIST,
‘ 151 Glllllicll STREET, MARI'I’ZBIIIIG.

'3
ILL KINDS 0!’ "RI, Menu, and men suns KEPT m s'rocn.

Collections of Rare
Native Plants, Bulbs,
" I, Seeds, &c., will be
‘ “forwarded to any
Ornamental and
Timber Trees, '


Roses, Rhododen- ’ ‘Mil k1};
drone, and the '’
choicest kinds of part of the world
Garden Flowers on receipt of Postal
and Shrubs at Low 1..“ j Order, in parcels at
Prices. _ ‘ '3 from lO/- to £10.
Ball and Bridal Bouquets and Memorial Wreaths made
up in Artistic Style.
H.
'1'. P E A c H,
FURNITURE, GENERAL, & CURIO DEALER,
PIETERMARITZBURG.
The best and most varied assortment of Native Dresses, Weapons and
Pottery, Horns, Stuffed Animals, Birds and Reptiles, and Fancy
Skins of all sorts. Goods sent to all parts of
_ the world on receipt of Post Oflloe Order.
\ .
A speciality made of the Purchase and Sale of OARTS and
VEHICLES. New comers wishing to Purchase anything of the
sort should apply to Mr. Peach.

e


Port Elizabeth, Cape Colony. 13
PALMERSTON 1 HOTEL,
PORT ELIZABETQI-Iq

‘n
\
J
fallow filmy 0111‘60/111/100'0/
'.i..'-_ "i .. _ '.

Close to Jetty, Railway Station and Custom
House.
GERMAN, FRENCH, ENGLISH.
PHCENIX HOTEL,
PORT ELIZABETH.
Market Square—adjacent to the Railwa Station—
Jetty—Town Hall—‘Post Office—Mag strates’
Court——Theatre and Feather Market.
COMMERCIAL TRAYELLERS GATERED FOR.
SHOW ROOMS ON THE PREMISES.
_ E. GEORGE, Proprietor.
WHYTE s“ (30.,
29 'PRINcEs STREET, P.E.
Wholesale Steam 'Manutactory of all kinds of
Biscuits, 5hips’_.Bread, ac. .-


smrs, no'rmns, &c., am TO 0mm.
Price Lists on application.


‘15110200. PM WWW wcl
AWARDED A GOLD MEDAL AT THE KIMBERLEY EXHIBITION, I892-

Descriptive Books, containing abundant testimony from Users in South Africa and other parts the World, as to SUPERIORITY and SAFETY, sent on application to I
REINERS, VON LAER 8‘ C0,,
PORT ELIZABETH.
Telegraphic Address:--"REINER8". P.0- Box No. I77.
1


in Port Elizabeth, Cape Colony.

|.A ROSE D'OR CIGARS.
The best value of any Cigar imported.
SOLE VENDORS :—
ERNEST EBERT & cougar
PORT ELIZABETH, CAPE TOWN, KIMBERLEY &. LONDON.
SUPPORT COLONIAL INDUSTRY i
THE
PORT ELIZABETH CANDLE FACTORY.
QUEEN STREET.
Manufacturers of Stearlne, Paratfine and Sperm Candles
in all sizes. Quality guaranteed equal to any of the
imported brands.
E. H. EVERITT 8: co.
Pretoria, S.A.R.
GEO-
& co"
llllAll. CONTRACTORS, PRETORlA.
Dail Service between JOHANNESBURG and CHARLES-
TO N, uia HEIDELBERG and STAN DERTON and vice usrsa.
Leaving JOHANNESBURG Daily at 4.30 a.m.
,, CHARLESTOWN ,, ,, 12 noon.
Bi-weekly service between PRETORIA and BARBERTON
and LYDENBURG, uia MIDDELBURG.
Leaving PRETORIA, Mondays and Thursdays, at 5 a.m.
,, Barberton, Mondays and Fridays, ,, 4 ,.





Full information as to fares, &C., may be obtained from GEO. HEYs & C0.; Head
Oifice, Pretoria, or from any of the undermentioned Agents.
For Natal Line. For Barberton Line. "I
Messrs. j. E. McNess, Johannesburg. Messrs. Store Bros, Middelburg.
R. H. Graham, Heidelber . J. A. Hyman, Helvetia.
H. H. Garrard 81 Co., The range. Barter 8: Hughes, Kaapsche Hoop.
Paddon & Brock, Standerton. Frank Watkins, Barberton.
E. H. Knevitt, Charleston. Bourke & Co., Lydenburg.
A. B. Bruno, Volksrust.
A. O‘Keil, Durban.
W. H. Grifiin, Pietermaritzburg.


Pretom'a, S.A. R. If
T. W. BEGKETT& 00.
41 *IJMITEI),
UNIVERSAL PRO l/IDERS,
UNDERTLKE THE FITTING OUT 0!‘
Hunting Expeditions,
And supply every neeessa'tzy for Travelling in the
“DARK” CONTINENT.


Waggons and Drivers supplied, and
Experienced (iuides engaged
if required.

I- ' -_.
Correspondents in all parts of South Africa, from
Cape Town to the Zambesi.
@I'oneer Were/M1114 0/ Me ‘I'm/Jamal
T. W. BWMUU, Ltd,
Market Square, Pretoria, S.A.R.
" 9‘" Lonoon OFFICE:—
HlLL & PADDON,
5 laurence Pountney llill, Gannon Street, 5.0.
BRANCH Es :—
JOIIAINESBURG, PIETERSBURG, RUSTENBURG, SIIITSDORP.


Tenemfe. 81
OROTAVA GRAND HOTEL,
sANAToRIuM, AND HEALTH RESORT,
TENERIFFE. "_' '
I Lawn Tennis, Billiards, Riding and Driving.
Pure Water, Dry and Running Air, Finest Climate in the World.



For Terms and Particulars address the Manager, Sanatorium, Puerto Orotava,
Tenerifi'e; or Messrs. Sinclair, Hamilton, & Co., 17 St. Helen's Place,
London, E.C. (Telegraphic Address :—“ Taoro, Puerto Cruz".)

Ultenhage, Cape Colony.

UITENHAGE HOTEL.”
Southey Brothers, Proprietors.


First=class Family Hotel, Three minutes’
walk from the Railway Station.
LARGE GARDENS, s'ranmne, “aw.

Billiard Room—-Thurston’s New Table and
Appurtenances.

.1: ).‘I.,
TELEcnAPHIq Apnness :——“‘$_>OUTHEY".
J. M. DOBSON & Co.,
OAl-EDON STREET, UITENIIAOE, > ‘
import direct all classes of General Drapery, Milllnery,
Outfitting, Boots and Shoes, 610.; keep a large
selection always on hand, and are therefore
able to supply residents or visitors
as satisfactorily and reasonably
as any house in the
Eastern2igrovince.


82 Wellington, Cape Colony.
MASONIC HOTEL, Wellington.
i J. D. ATEER'I‘ON.
HIS long cstablishe and well-known Hotel is particularly adapted for the
1’ "L reception of Fam' is or Visitors desirous of enjoying the rest and quiet

which the neighbeurhoo a ords. Those desirous of visiting the many beautitul
spots in the vicinity w? fin
Klool' Pass, &c., can a ways
Travellers.
it a most convenient centre. Carts for the Bain‘s
obtained. Good accommodation for Commercial

_ THE B'l‘lfi YINEGII; WORKS, Church Street, Wellington.
Large or Small Orders pron't‘tal'y attended to. Prize Medals at all the
‘ A} V onial Exhibitions.
fié Wmitester, Cape Colony.
COMMERClAL; HOTEL, WORCESTER.
C ,iumprieton} - - -\ l M. LIPMAN.




In the Healthiest oi the Town, and in close proximity to the
~ ‘_ J; Jrw'QB-“j13 Station.
In a ‘ w the use? itting Roome,‘l3illiard Room, 5.1., there is a large Hall on
the Prumee'e'in-whieh Efitertlinmeots are generally held.
Carts and Horses on'hi J - -nic-Partles provided for, and Excursions
w rranged to t ' ' i = ; utiful Spots-to be found in the
‘ _ out-hood.
Cape Colony.


1y; .1
t ‘A, as, Q
The aboife well-kootnn Health Resort‘has been thoroughly
elated’, Visitors can be accommodated with
_V V j'vjyevery Home Comiot't.




‘All ‘ Private Rooms for Wedding Parties.

A Cart will meet the I '35 p.m. Train from Port Elizabeth every
Saturday. Terms from Saturday to Monday, including
Cart Hire .
ONE GUINEA.

Carts will- mzet any Train on reeeiiat of notice.
E. J. GENE.
Pelt errlvel daily.


CI
IMPORTANT TO 5,,
Tourists, Explorers, lnvalids and Settlers.
USE
MAIGNEN’S FILTRE IIAPIDE.
See Sir Samuel Baker's testimony :'-~
“ The best filter I have ever used is Malgnon's Filtre Raplde, and I never
travel without one. The most serviceable pattern is the four gnllomillter ui
enamelled iron, which is protected by basket-work. As this filter is open, the
char?! of charcoal is exposed to view whenever the psrcolator is’ removed by
sim e lifting as a cover. I always protect the charcoal by a. layer of two folds
of tliick flannel l‘placed beneath the percolator. This l‘prevents disturbance of
the charcoal su ace when the Water Is poured in. I ways fill the filter with
water actually boiling; this would prevent the formation of poisonous germs,
and would destroy any that might have trespassed within the filter. '~, ‘
“ I never have fever—neither do any of my party—in any climate, although
we may be forced to use water of most quest ouahle character, and‘ I feelisure
that most diseases are preventable when the precautions I have suggeetedgare
carefully enforced." ‘B .
“ A better filter could not be desired."—The Lancet.

The “FILTRE RAPIDE " has been tested, approved and largely
used by HER MAJESTY’S GOVERNMENT.
£10,000 worth were sent to Egypt during the campaign, and
GENERAL WOLSELEY wrote us :—“ It filtered the water both
quickly and well, and was much valued by oufisoldiers”.
W \<\Aw\m'\.\m’\.\’
 .
FULL PARTICULARS AND PRICES FROM
MAICNEN’S ..“ FILTRE RAPIDE "
“ANTI-CALCAIRE ” 00., Lo,
255 REGENT s'r., LONDON, w.


,.
‘finmu BRITISH & MERGANTILE
INSURANBE 09.
FIRE—LONDON AND EOINBURGH~L|FE
(ESTABLISHED I809).


INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER.
£10,695,969
2,650,812
TOTAL FUNDS, -
TOTAL REVENUE, 1891, -

Phcenix Fire Office, London
(ESTABLISHED I782).
LOSSES PAID, OVER - - £19,000,000


The above Offices accept all classes
of Risks at Lowest Current Rates.
(‘:laims settled with Promptitude
" and Liberality.
AGENTS :—
IVIILTON, WATSON & 60.,
PORT ELIZABETH.
"1-—= -


‘r
J 81
Over SIXTY-EIGHT MILLIONS Sterllin [Paid to
Policy Holders in 49 yefuj *
*i."
,7


1
1‘
BY THE I‘ l’ l
MUTUAL LIFE msuBANc;
~I‘
GOMPANY or loan.
Head Ofiice for South AfriFafQQ/IPJE TOW/V.
A. maeconKmnALE, Geg'enhl uan'eger.

Death Claims paid in 18 "771'! ',~96§,448, being a
return of £2 135. 5d.' Jmjrery £ paid in
’ \'
premiur'ns." T
Send for the New Prospectus before assuring elsewhere, and read
"INVESTMENT INSURANCE".
Accumulated Funds, - f- - £33,l56,995
Bonuses Paid Exceed, - - £I7,000,000
Income for 1891, - - - £7,97I,200
PURELY MUTUAL. N0 SHAREHOLDERS. ALL PROFITS BELONG TO
THE POLIGY HOLDERS-
Tlae Mutual Life Consol is the best safe investment now before
the public. It combines Insurance, Endowment, Annuity, and
r ' Investment.
I
7|“ It is absolutely the Greatest Life Insurance Company in the
World."-—Reuiew, 27th July, 1892.
The best Company is the Company which does the most
\ good.

SEND FOR A PROSPECTUS.
//
4


.viviflnrfrruh . .Y . M . .. ... .. 11N,4.4......=i...x
. . I .. .. . .114trv
Q. . T.- .
, . $13,?
. it“ a.‘ 5H9 ..




3 1293 02923 9674
III!
s
E
R
A
R
RI.
L
9
R
E
W
N
U
E
T
A
T
S
N
A
m
H
w
M
WW.
'0