Great trans-continental tourist's guide ... FRED LOCKLEY RARE WESTERN BOOKS 1243 East Stark St. PORTLAND. ORE. COGNOSCE TEID DISCE PAT ASUME MET DISC Philip Ashton Rollins Moana L. Plauder GREAT VERON NTINENTAL AW A14 TRANSE CONTAS . mu WTUMTUNIDA inim limmin UTIN WWW WUN TOURIST CORNIA.IN ALIFU 18:49 TUTT & CO., Publie GUIDE.S. ALIFORNIA IN CALIFO: UUNTO DI 18.69 VIAJN GEO. A. CROFUN 21 Park Row, N. Y. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by Geo. A. CBOPUTT, In the Clerk's eces of tha District Court of the t.. .. ... ..- hi. .. .. LUXURY OF MODERN RAILWAY TRAVEL. grund AUTHIE HUNIANI TUND WY AVIA ISU C OM GRID TETET DAS INI IRRATIA WATU Voor 17021 UTICAL TIME MINIMUM HU -14 wran Alloh GOSTINO MALI - ET - - ( MAX - MAAS MANZO PULLMAN'S PALACE DINING CAR. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL TOURIST'S GUIDE OONTAINING A FULL AND AUTHENTIC DESCRIPTION OF OVER FIVE HUNDRED CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, STATIONS. GOV. ERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS, MOUNTAINS, LAKES, RIVERS, SULPHUR, SODA AND HOT SPRINGS, SCENERY, WATERING PLACES. SUMMER RESORTS; WEEBE To look for and hunt the Buffalo, Antelope, Deer, and other game ; Trout Fishing, etc., etc. In fact, to tell you swhat is worth sceing-where to see it where to go- how to go and whom to stop with while passing over the UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD, CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD OF CAL., Their Branches and Connections by Stage and Water, FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ILLUSTRATED. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by Geo. A. CROFUTT, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. AMERICAN NEWS CO. WHOLESALE AGENTS. NEW YORK : GEO. A. CROFUTT & Co., PUBLISHERS, No, 21 PARK ROW. 1870. OUR PREFACE. It is customary for authors or publishers to preface their books with a few remarks, which are generally considered by the public in the light of an apology. Many times it is necessary to apologize for publishing a book; then, it may be quite proper that a long preface should be written; but, as we have done nothing of which we are ashamed, we have nothing to apologize for; yet, we bow to custom. We believed a correct, comprehensive and reliable guide of the Great Trans-Continental Railroad was needed; we were certain our ten years experience in traversing the States and Territories west of the Missouri river had afforded us advantages possessed by few others. We have, therefore, resolved to make it a SPECIALTY, Depending wholly upon personal observation and knowledge of the country along the whole line, and tributary to the Union and Central Pacific Railroads, their bran- ches and connections from the Missouri River to the Pacific Coast. We offer you no rehash of unreliable newspaper and hearsay accounts; neither shall we present you a mass of old stereotyped time tables, but we do propose to take you step by step, station by station, over the whole line-give you full and authentic facts and figures, condensed and boiled down to the smallest possible space---a literal “multum in parvo." We shall avoid generalizing, but point you to facts. The first edition of the GUIDE was published Sept. 1st, 1869; its reception by the public was very encouraging, and stimulated us to still greater efforts. Photographers and Engravers were soon put to work, and we are now pleased to offer our first annual REVISED AND ILLUSTRATED EDITION. Great pains have been taken to illustrate and revise this edition of the GUIDE. In it will be found twenty-four whole page illustrations, and many smaller ones- thirty-six in all-a very fine map of the whole road-time tables, showing every station with its altitude and distance each way to the end of the road, memoranda, &c., &c. The GUIDE will be thoroughly revised in May, and temporarily in September, annually, hereafter. In publishing the first paper-bound edition of the GUIDE, we placed the retail price at fifty cents, furnishing them to newsdealers at cost, which gave them a large profit and the book an extensive sale, while we inserted a few page adver- tisements, thinking thereby to repay us for our outlay in compiling and publishing. The result was, a large sale, and more advertisements than we wanted ; in fact, we had to stop taking them. Had we continued to insert them, they would eventually ruin the sale as well as destroy the usefullness of the book. We shall insert no more (except connecting railroad and steamship lines), and discontinue those we have as soon as their time expires. But in their place we will insert a BUSINESS DIRECTORY Of the most reliable and enterprising business firms, both in the East and West. Houses that are able, and desirous of reaching for and grasping the tremendous trade which lies tributary to this two THOUSAND MILES OF RAILROAD, including five States and six Territories, with a population of over one million souls, and paying for the same ten dollars per annum, two line space, (exclusive of classified headings), including one copy of the Book. ADDRESS, GEO. A. CROFUTT & CO., Price, bound in Cloth, sent post paid, . . . $100 " " Paper, “ Large discounts made to Dealers. Canyassing Agents wanted everywhere. • " 50 RONDLCHANDLER.GMis Bird's Eye View of the Plains, from the crossing of Loup Fork River, 94 miles west of Omaha. GENERAL INDEX. Deu 191 V I V A ...... .. . ... .. ..... . .. . .... OUVOI VR O .. .... . ..... .. .... . .. ... ... 38 . 111 ..... 144 ow n W u ......................... 18 117 . ........ . ....... . . 79 12 ............. ...... 1 8 .................. 145 . .. ... .. ..0...0. .. . 0.. . .. ...... ... ..... I 32 . . .. .... ..... ***. 18 ...... 10 15 171 **•.................. 136 61 152 Page. Page, Pag Point Rocks............. Benicia ................................ | Santa Cruz.. Potter........... Benton ............ Santa Rosa ....... Promontory........ Bear River City.. Sonoma 1. Raspberry.... Brigham........... Stockton Rawlings.. 75 Boiso ............. San Quenten. Red Buttes. 64 Black Hawk....... 52 San Francisco Red Desert 77 Columbus 80 San Leandro....... Reno..... 151 Camptonville.. San Jose......... Rose Creek. 144 Cheyenne .. Silver City ...... Rock Creek ....... 71 Central... Shermantown.. Rock Springs.... Council Bluffs ... Tahoe City .......... Rocklin.... 173 Colorado City Treasure City Roscoe .......... 36 Calistoga ......... 200 | Yuba ......... Roezl .. 116 Colusa........................... 185 | You Bet......... .......................... 10 Rye Patch.. Chico ........ 188 Virginia Dale........................... 6 Sacramento ... 174 Collingsville 191 Virginia City, Montana......... 11 San Leandro... 196 Coriano......... 109 Virginia City, Nevada ... Shady Run... 16+ | Carson ................................... 153 | Vernon....... Salt Wells .................. 79 Cacheville ........ ........................ 183 Vallejo .. San Joaquin Bridge..... . 194 Dobey Town..... Willard ..... Separation, 76 Denver ........................... 49 Washoe Schuyler.. 30 Dayton ..... 152 Washington .... 18 **•••••............... San Jose Junction 195 Davisville. 183 Woodland ........ .......................... 18 Sherman 60 Downievillo ... 171 | Woolsey's Flat.................... 17 Shoshone ..... Eureka ............................." 171 U, 8. FORTS AND Silver Creek... Fremont...... .. 26 CAMPS. Sidney........ Folsom ................ 189 Side Track.. Military Department.... Freeport ........ 190 Forest Hill...... 171 Simpson ...... Omaha Barracks. Fort Kearney ..... St. Mary's.... Golden ............................. Fort McPherson ......... Stevenson ... Georgetown ..... Stockton ......... 192 Gold Hill. Camp North Platte Stone House..... 142 Green River ....... Fort Sedgwick.............. 79 Fort Morgan ......... Strong's Canon.... Genoa ................................ 154 Summit.. 162 Grass Valley ....... 165 Fort D. A. Russell.... Fort Laramie Summit Siding..... Hamilton, Wyoming....... Table Rock.. Fort Fetterman 77 Hayward's ..... 200 Tamarack.. Fort Casper ......... 164 Helena 110 Fort Reno... Tecoma. 119 Hamilton, Nevada .. 128 Fort Phil Kearney.. Terrace....... 118 Idaho, Colorado .. 54 Tulasco............. 124 Idaho, Idaho................... Fort C. F. Smith.. Fort Saunderi ......... Toano...... 119 Iowa Hill ......... Fort Fred Stoole......... Truckee........ ... 155 | Illinoistown ........ Fort Bridger ................ Two Mile. 150 Julesburg ........... Camp Douglas .............. Tule... .............................. 142 Knight's Landing Fort Hallock .... Uintah. LaPorte Valley.... 25 Laramie.... . 64 LAKES. Van Dykes.................... 79 Little York ..... ...... 166 Ruby ..................... Verdi........... 154 Lako ................................... www.171 Franklin ........ Warren...... Marysville....... . 186 Goshoot ... Wash-a-kie........ Markleville ..... Snow .....................**** Wadsworth 150 Moore's Flat. ....... 171 171 M ud.. ....................... Wabgatch ..... 89 Napa N ape ........................ 200 Pyramid Wolcott's. North Bloomfield 171 Winnemucca ... Weber........ 95 Nicholas.......................... 185 Humboldt. Wells.... ..... 121 North San Juan .... Carson White Plains.... Nevada, California Walker's .. 145 Winnemucca ... 143 Omaha Tahoe 150 Wilsov's ....... Oakland.. Donner .................................... Willow Island Ogden ... Honey ................................ ....... 18 Wood River.... 32 Oroville ............ 186 Salt Lake Wyoming....... 70 Prairie Dog City Crystal Pueblo MISCELLANEOUS. CITIES AND TOWNS. Richland ....... Rio Vista ............. The Far West ..... Austin ....... Red Dog.................................. 166 138 The Northwest . .......................... Antioch South Pass City 78 Elk Mountain ....................... ............................. 191 Alameda ...... Salt Lake 99 Sweet Water Mines Atlantic City. 78 Sacramento .......................... 174 174 | Ham's Fork Survey .............. 162 A . 78 . . . . .. OOOOOOO.OOO00000 ........ 172 . .. .. . . .. . 96 124 - 4 TUU KJIU ........................ .. . 000OO0000 .... .. .... .. . . 154 . . . . . . 72 144 144 ................... 171) ...... 170 ... 14 149 ... 22 196 194 33 96 .............97 114 W A .. .. .. .. .. .... .. ... ...... 0 .. O D .0. .90 .. .... ..... 138 196 GENERAL INDEX. • • . 90 • • • 60 98 ...... 62 U A ...... D . .. .. ... .. 16 .... 15 117 193 ...... 182 ...... 193 ., 194 istrict. 138 Page. Page. Page Memories of Bridger ....... 84 | Branch Mint ............50 154 199 RAILROADS. Bear River Riot Board of Trade-Denver ...... Echo Canyon ....... Stock-Raising ...... Trans-Continentel. Castle Rock ......... Mountains and Peaks of Col. U. P. R.R. ..... 90 orado ..... C Hanging Rock ...... P .R.R. ...... Mormon Fortifications ...... Mining in Colorado ............ Denver Pacific........... Paddy Miles' Ride ............... 91 Parks of Colorado ........ Utah Central ....... Weber Canyon....................... 94 | Dale Creek Bridge ...... Colorado Central.. Devil's Slide ...... 91 | Hospital. .................. Omaha & Northwestern R. R. 24 Utah Territory ...... | Great Cave .... Omaha & Southwestern R R. Sketch of Brigham Young..... 102 Back Bone of America .. Kansas Pacific Rio Grande ..................... Montana ............... 110 Woman Jury...... The Big Horn Country......... 45 | Home Missions ..... Denver and Santa Fe..... 49 Memoranda ......205 206 207 208 Larymie Plains Tram System ...... The Last Spike ..... ... 111 | Mines near Laramie City...... Denver and South Park ...... 49 Great Salt Lake ....... 114 Lover's Leap San Jose and Gilroy ........ Glonbrook Race Course......... 171 | Rolling Stock ...... ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Col. Judnutt's Survey ...... 115 Land Grant ...... Shoshone Falls ... ... 115 The Buttes ...... 188 Sacramento and Shingle Spgs 181 American Falls ...... ... 115 The Foot Hills.. Sacramento and Marysville... 182 110..................... 188 Boise Country The Tule Lands..... 189 California Northern R. R...... 182 Owyhee Mines....... 117 Mount Diablo ...... ....... 191 200 Sacramento and Vallejo........ 182 Great American Desert.. 117 Golden Gate...... 198 Napa Valley........ ......... 182 Pilot Peak ..., 119 Summer Resorts....... 193 Western Pacific............... 182 191 Ruby Mines 121 Yo Semite.......... Steamboat Travel..... Osino Canyon 125 Big Trees .............. ....... 194 1 Mariposa Route . Five Mile Canyon 129 Calistoga and the Geysers..... 200 Coulterville Route....... 193 Humboldt Canyon.... 133 San Rafael and Mount Tamal- Hardin's Route ........ Gruvelly Ford ........ ... 134 I pais................................... RIVERS, Reese River Mining District.. Institutions of California...... 202 Littlo Giant Mine...... 110 Mechauics' Justitute............ 202 Elkhorn River Hill Beachy 126 Bank of California. 202 Platte River.... Battlo (Indian). 140 Wood River .......... Big Bend (Humboldt) 141 VALLEYS. North Plat e River .... Black Rock ...... 143 Grass Valley.......... 169 South Platte River .... Great Nevada Desert..... 146 Cache-a-la l'oudre River .. Thousand Spring Valley ...... School Marms ............. Medicine Bow River ........ Irdependence Valley Lander County ............. 138 Ruby Vallev............... 120 Head of Platte River ... Donper Like Tragedy 159 Clover Valley ................. 120 Frather & Yuba Rivers......... Tunnels and Snow Sheds... 163 Green River... Cache La Poudre..... Capitol, California 178 Ham's Fork............ Humboldt Valley........ 122 Ilow to travel .... 25 Bear River ............ Bishop's Valley...... 12 Scuscol Hills 184 Weber River ........ Ilumboldt Valley, North Fork 124 O'rallon's Bluff .. Susan Valiey ..................... Jordan River, Utah ....... 130 .......... Courthouse Rock 39 Pine Valley 130 Humboldt River Chimuey Rock................. 39 Humboldı River, North Fork 124 Diam nd Valley 132 Iven Cracken 194 Huniboidt River, South Fork 126 Paradise Valley Fremont's O chard Eden Valley ......... Quinn's River .. ........ 141 Gurdon of the Gods Carson River ................ Reese Ri er Valley Robber's Roost .. 62 Truckee River ................ 160 Grass Valley..... Parl. y's Park Walker's River ........... 148 Quinu's Valley One Thousand Mile Tree ...... 94 argon Valley ....... CREEKS, Humboldt Wells....... 121 Truckee Valley ... White Pine ........... 127 Sierra Valley ....... Silver Creek............ Treasure Hill .... 162 127 Sum e y ... Elm Creek Summit Valley ................ Devil's leak ....... 133 Santa Clara Volley... 195 Plum Creek ..... The Maiden's Gravo ....... i Lidge P.le Creek .. Yu Semite Valley Battle Mountiin. Lone Tree Creek Truckee Me dowB .. 151 SPRINGS. Dale Creek ......... Cumstock Lode Mineral Springs, Col........ 54 Goo-e Crerk. Silver Mountain 154 Surprise Creek ... Sulphur Springs, Col............ 118 Great American Canyon ...... 164 Bishop's Creek .... Hot Springs, Ut h......... 124 Cape Horn .. 108 Hot Springs, Utah ........... Maggie's Creek : 130 Grand Island Mary's Creek .......... 132 Hot Springs, Nevada....... Willow Island. 33 126 135 142 Rock Creek 136 Brady Island Paradige Creek 152 ... Steamboat Springs 137 ............ 1 Hock Farm Soda Springs 164 .... 141 Crooked Creek. Wool Growing...... Warm Springs................. Rose Creek Coloradc ........ | Coldstream ......... 159 118 120 62 137 42 54 137 1+0 141 14) 148 . 150 . : . . 164 193 134 136 . . 153 168 PILKB ... .. 200 144 ....... Ocean to Ocean. WEST TO THE MISSOURI RIVER. BOSTON. Passengers for San Francisco can have ST. LOUIS. their choice of many roads leading west, From St. Louis to Council Bluffs and and ultimately connecting with the grand Omaha, via. North Missouri Railroad, Trans-Continental Railroad at Council Hannibal and St. Joseph, and Council Bluffs and Omaha. Passengers can go Bluffs. via Boston & Albany, and New York Central R. R. But passengers wishing to visit New York cannot enjoy a more FROM CHICAGO. agreeable trip than via Narragansett S. S. West to Council Bluffs and Omaha, the Co.'s palatial steamers Bristol and Provi traveler can have choice of four routes: dence, which are provided with grand the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad, promenade concerts every evening-in via Clinton and Cedar Rapids; the fact, everything to ensure confort, safety | Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Rail- and speed, the travellers are sure to re road, via Rock Island, Davenport and ceive by this line. From Des Moines; the Chicago, Burlington NEW YORK & Quincy Railroad, via Quincy, and passengers can go via Phila., Pittsb’g, and also via Burlington and Missouri Rail- Cin., via“Erie" to Dunkirk and Cleveland, road. thence to Chicago. But the most popular From each of these prominent cities the route TO CHICAGO traveler can have choice of routes, there and the West is via New York Central being but little, or any doubt, but what and Hudson River Railroads, Lake Shore connections will be made-although and Michigan Southern Railroads, thus there is quite a difference in running giving the passengers a view of the beau time. From Boston to Council Bluffs tiful Hudson and the Garden of New it matters not which route is taken, in York-also Niagara Falls, Buffalo and reaching Council Bluffs, and the fare is Lake Erie-or passengers can go via Sus about alike on each of the various pension Bridge and Detroit to Cbicago. I routes. (See Trans-Continental Rail- Through traips of both Pullman and road Guide, Map and Time Table.) Wagner Palace Cars, via Buffalo and Sus. COUNCIL BLUFFS. pension Bridge, without cbange. To This thriving city is the county seat PHILADELPHIA, of Pottawatlonie county, Iowa. It is The Camden & Amboy is preferable; situated about three miles east of the thence West via. Pennsylvania Central Missouri river, at the foot of the bluffs, and Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago and contains about 12,000 inhabi ants. Railroads; or South via. Wilmington It is four miles distant from Omaha, and Havre de Grace, to Nebraska, to which city it is connected · BALTIMORE, by railroad and ferry. Council Bluffs From Baltimore West via. Washing. is one of the oldest towns in Western ton, Harper's Ferry, Wheeling, Alli. Iowa. As early as 1846 it was known ance, Crestline, Fort Wayne to Chicago, | as a Mormon settlement, by the name or via. Junction, Point of Rocks, Pitts of Kanesville, which it retained until burgh, Crestline and Columbus to 1853, when the Legislature granted a CINCINNATI. charter designating the place as the From this city West via. Ohio and City of Council Bluffs. The explorers, Mississippi Railroad to Lewis and Clark, held a council with GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 11 winters are mild, considering the lati-l public promenades. Long will the tude; the summers not oppressively memory of these scenes remain impress- warm, and there is an absence of many ed on the mind of the traveler who ad- diseases that render our lower lands so mires nature in all her phases. Califor- peculiarly unhealthy. The emigrant, nia may and does possess grand and who wishes a home where he can till magnificent mountain scenery, unsur- the soil, where his labors will be re-l passed by any in the world, together warded with abundant harvest, need not with broad and fertile plains; Idaho, go beyond this State to satisfy his aspi Montana, Nevada and Colorada are rations. Wheat, oats and corn yield grand and beautiful in their rugged luxuriant returns to the husbandman, strength, but in none of these can be and all kinds of fruits and garden vege found scenes of quiet, graceful beauty, tables, incidental to this latitude, can be which, by any stretch of imagination, grown in profusion. Rarely will the can be ranked as equal to those found traveler find a more magnificent scene, almost any where on the prairies of and more suggestive of real wealth and Nebraska and the Northwest. Nowhere prosperity, than can be seen on these else have we seen vegetation clothed in broad prairies, when the fields of yellow such brilliant colors. And when the grain or waving corn are waiting for the face of our warmer lands is bare, parched harvesters. Miles and miles away and brown, the transition from thence stretch the undulating plains, far, aye, to these green plains unfolds to us al- farther than the eye can see. In rapid most a new phase of existence. succession we pass the better residence For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Mich: of the “old settler," with his immense igan and Ohio were supposed to con- fields of grain and herds of stock, on be tain the wheat-growing soil of the yond the boundaries of earlier settle Union, and they became known as the ments; and now we reach the rude cabin “granaries of the States." But those of the hardy settler, who has located “granaries" have pushed themselves a still “ farther west," and here, within a little “further west,” if we may be al- few years will arise a home as attractive lowed to use the expression. Nebraska as those we have left behind, surrounded has retained a portion of the name; with orchards, gardens and flocks. California and Oregon took the remain- Here, too, will the snug school-house be der. Nebraska annually produces a found, and the white church, with its large surplus of wheat and corn, which tapering spire, pointing the people to finds its way eastward. Properly speak- the abode of Him who hath so richly ing, it is a wheat country, and destined blessed His children. There is beauty to wield a powerful influence in the on every hand. The wild prairie grain market, when her lands shall have flowers, of a thousand different hues and been settled and cultivated. It is less varieties, greet the eye at every step; susceptible to 'the effects of droughts and the tiniest foot that ever trod Broad- than any of her adjoining sisters. Nei- way could scarce reach the ground with ther have extremes of wet weather, as out crushing the life from out some of yet, ever caused any very serious loss. these emblems of purity. And when With the advantages possessed by this the cooling showers have moistened the State; with a water front of several thirsty earth, or when the morning dew hundred miles on a stream navigable is spangling flowers, vine and tree, there the greater portion of the year; with is inore of quiet, graceful beauty-more | the grandest railroad on the continent of that spirit floating around us which traversing her entire breadth, and termi- renders man more human and woman nating with her border; with all the re- nearer what we desire her to be-than | sources of commerce at her command ; can be found within the walls of any with unlimited water power for manu. city, despite its beautiful gardens and factures, it would be strange, indeed, if GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 13 pick, shovel and drill, the clatter of by iron bands, the fair dominions of the stamps and booming of blasts, which West from foreign or domestic foe. tell of the presence of the miner and Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark the future streams of wealth which will and others had long urged the necessity flow into our national coffers; for as the and practicability of the scheme, the individual becomes enriched, so does his wealth and power which would accrue country partake of his fortune. to the country, from its realization, the THE TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAIL- idea found favor with but few of our ROAD, wise legislators until they awoke to the To protect her citizens, spread over knowledge that even the loyal State of these wilds, from the Mississippi to the California was in danger of being aban- Pacific, from the boundaries of Mexico doned by those in command, and turned to the British possessions, the United over to the insurgents; that a rebel States established a system of military torce was forming in Texas with the forts and posts, extending north and Pacific coast as its objective point ; that south, east and west over this territory. foreign and domestic machinations Though productive of much good, they threatened the dismemberment of the were not sufficient to meet the require. Union into three divisions; not until all, ments of the times, and in many places all this stared them in the face could settlers and miners were murdered with our national Solons see the practicabil- impunity by the Indians. Wise men ity of the scheme so earnestly and ably regarded rapid emigration as the only advocated by Sargent, of California, and safe plan of security, and this could not his able coadjutors in the noble work. be accomplished without swifter, surer To this threatened invasion of our west- and cheaper means of transporting the ern possessions, what had Government poor, who would gladly avail themselves to offer for successful defense? Noth- of the opportunity to possess a free farm | ing but a few half finished and illy or reach the gold fields of the West. manned forts around the bay and the The railroad and telegraph-twin sis untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- ters of civilization-were talked of; but der this pressure was the charter granted old fogies shook their heads in the plen and it may truly be said that the road itude of their wisdom, and piously was inaugurated by the grandest carni- crossed themselves and clasped with a val of blood the world has ever known; firmer grasp their money-bags when for without the pressure of the rebellion young America dared broach the sub the road would probably be in embryo ject. “No, sir, no; the thing is totally to-day. Although the American people absurd, impracticable, sir ; don't talk have been keeply alive to the impor- more of such nonsense to me," they tance of a speedy transit between the would reply as they turned away to go two extremes of the continent ever to their church or to their faro games in since the discovery of gold on the Pa- Wall street-probably the latter place. cific slope, up to this time the old vague But Young America did not give up to rumors of barren deserts, dark, deep and his theory or accept the dictum of gloomy gorges, tremendous, rugged, money-bags. And as the counties of snow-clad mountains and the wild say. the West grew and expanded under the age made the idea seem preposterous. mighty tide of immigration they clam Even the reports of the emigrants could ored for a safe and speedy transit be- | not convince them to the contrary; por tween them and their “fatherland.” yet the reports of the Mormons, who, Government, with its usual red tape fl-eing from the border States marked delays and scientific way of how not to and mapped a feasible route to Salt Lake do it, heeded not the appeal until the City. And it is worthy of remark that red hand of war, of rebellion, pointed for over 700 miles the road follows very out to it the stern necessity of securing, | closely their survey. 14 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. Practical, earnest men, disabused the road, diverging at Franklin, southwest, minds of the people regarding the im via Rollo, Springtield, Neosho (the Ga- practicability of the scheme, after the lena district), and along the line of the road had became a national necessity thirty-sixth parallel to Santa Fe, New a question of life and unity of the Repub Mexico. From Santa Fe to San Fran. lic. The great work has been accom cisco, preliminary surveys were made, plished, and to-day the locomotive and bad it not been for the rebellion whirls its long train, filled with emi. | this road would undoubtedly have been grants or pleasure seekers, through that completed long ere this; good author. region, which, only a few years ago, ities placing the limit at 1864. The was but a dim, undefined, mythical land, cause which compelled the construction composed of chaos and the last faint ef of the Central road, destroyed the forts of nature to render that chaotic Southern. Passing as it did, mostly state still more inhospitable and unin through southern hostile territory, gov. viting. How great the change from the ernment could not aid or protect it in ideal to the real. For five hundred its construction, and consequently the miles after leaving Omaha, that vague work was suspended. With returning “Great American Desert” proves to be peace, and a settled condition of society as beautiful and fertile a succession of it is but reasonable to suppose that the valleys as can be found elsewhere, un work wilì ultimately be pushed to com- der like geographical positions. Great pletion. It may be well to mention is the change indeed; still greater the here, that the States of Arkansas and changes through which our country has Tennessee by their Legislatures, pro- passed during the period from the com posed to assist the work, by construct- mencement to the ending of our proud ing a railroad from little Rock, to con. est national civil record, save one. We nect with the M. & P. R. R., some- live in a fast age; the breeze of to-day where between the ninety.eighth and was the tornado of 50 years ago. Na- | one hundred and second degree of ture has called upon her children to rise longitude, and for that purpose a char- and prepare for the changes constantly ter was granted. occurring, and nobly have they re The evident, and we might add, the sponded to her summons. The dust of imperative recessity of connecting the our ancestors has reposed for ages, in east and west, and the intervening ter- quiet, in their loved church yards, un | ritories, encouraged the corporators of moved by the rush and whirl of the ! the great trans-continental line to present age, which seems but a prepar apply to the Government for aid. atory lesson to their children, teaching Many measures were devised and laid them to hasten their pace, that at the before the people, but the supposed final gathering all may arrive at the impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, same time. and other natural obstacles to be en- But we will cease speculating, and countered, caused a hesitancy even then resume the consideration of the history on the part of our energetic people to of the continental railroad, and also the commence the great work. To attempt attempts in that direction which had to lay the iron rail through vast tracts been made by other parties, in another of unknown country, inhabited by wan. portion of our country. We find that dering, hostile tribes of savage nomads; Missouri, through her able and liberal to scale the snow-clad peaks of the Legislature, was the first State to move Rocky Mountains with the fiery loco- in the construction of a national or con- | motive, seemed an undertaking too vast tinental railroad. The Legislature of | for even the American people to accom. that State granted a charter,under which plish. But the absolute IMPORTANCE, was incorporated the Missouri and Pa- the urgent NECESSITY of such a work, cific Railroad Co., who were to build a overcame all objections to the scheme, GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 15 and in 1862 Congress passed an act, In addition to the grant of lands and which was approved by President Lin- right of way, Government agreed to coln on the first day of July of that issue its thirty year six per cent. bonds year, by which the Government sanc- in aid of the work, graduated as follows: tioned the undertaking, and promised For the plains portion of the road, the use of its credit to aid in its speedy $16,000 per mile ; for the next most completion. The act was entitled: difficult portion, $32,000 per mile; for “An act to aid in the construction of a the mountainous portion, $48,000 per railroad and telegraph line from the mile. Missouri river to the Pacific ocean, and The Union Pacific Railroad Co. built to secure to the Government the use of 526 miles, for which they received $16,- the same for postal, military, and other 000 per mile; 408 miles at $32,000 per purposes." mile; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, This act designated certain parties making a total of $28,456,000. named therein, as a “body corporate The Central Pacific Railroad Co. built and politic in deed and in law, by the 12 miles at $16,000 per mile; 522 miles name, style and title of the Union Paci. | at $32,000 per mile; 156 miles at $48,000 fic Railroad Co., and the Central Pacific per mile, making a total of $21,386,000. Railroad of California, to have full The total subsidies for both roads powers to plead and be impleaded, etc., amount to $52,840,000. Government in all courts of law and equity in the also guaranteed the interest on the com- United States." Certain rights of way, panies' first mortgage bonds to an equal and other powers incidental to a corpo | amount. ration of such a nature, were confirmed IMPORTANCE OF THE ROAD. by this act, and the people began to look forward, even through the smoke of It is not our purpose to enter into battle, to the commencement and ulti- | any calculation or statement regarding mate completion of the work. the benefits to accrue from the comple- tion of this work. We would like to LAND GRANT. do it, but then we have no idea of the The Government grant of lands to magnitude of the results to Government, . the great national highway, as amended, commerce, and the world. Neither has was every alternate section of land for anyone else presented anything but 20 miles on each side of the road, or 20 visionary statistics, and those our read- sections, equaling 12,800 acres for each ers can manufacture to suit their own mile of the road. By the company's tastes. But we will observe that an in- table, the road, as completed, is 1,775, calculable wealth of trade has been miles long from Omaha to Sacra opened: that the East and West are now mento, where it connects with the connected by a route over which the Western Pacific road to San Franciso. vast trade of China, Japan and the This would give the company's 22,720, Orient must flow in its transit eastward. ided as follows: Union The benefits to be derived from this and Pacific, 13,207 600; Central Pacific, 9,510, other sources connected with the road, 400. as yet, are but dimly shadowed forth. The two roads meet at Promontory. When the old channel of commerce be- Point, and the above figures, were twen the East and the West shall have based on that as the “Junction," but been fairly broken, and its tide turned a lispute between the two companies through the new channel, then can sta- has led to a change, and the Junc tisticians compile correct data on which tion has recently been located at to base their calculations. Ogden, 52 miles east, and what arrange When we take into consideration that ments have been made in settlement we | the road is now complete, that Govern- are not informed. ment posts, far and near, will receive 000 acres, divide de company's 22,720.- 16 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 88 45 50 .. ... . .. .. .. O00000000 7,123 their supplies by this route, we can de | quired to operate a road of this magni- termine that Government, at least, will tude, we give the numbers of the cars of save an immense sum annually. all kinds, and locomotives, now in use. The amount paid from January 1st,'69, Locomotives........... 319 to January 1st, 1870, for transportation Passenger cars........ 163 over the U. P. R. R., alone, was $768,- Emigrant and second class cars.... Pullman sleeping cars 22 712.46; of this amount $268,874.15 was Silver palace sleeping cars..... for mails. At the contract price for 1867, Mail and express cars.......... by wagon, had the freight been thus Caboose cars....... 88 Baggage cars.... 34 transported, it would have cost the Gov. Box cars........... 2,566 rnment $2,829,732.15. Thus, the money Flat cars...... 2,765 saved by the road to Government, in 1869 Hand cars.............. 421 Dunp cars......... 142 was $2,061,019.66. One-half the above Section cars......... 109 amount paid the company is cash, the Iron cars balance credited on bond account. The Coal cars..... 231 Bridge cars. countless thousands of emigrants who Gravel cars.... will now press Westward will swell the Derrick and Wrecking cars ...... income, and, a few years hence, when Rubble cars....... Powder cars....... these same emigrants shall have made Water Tank cars themselves homes in the countries bor Cook car.......... dering the line of road, and become pro Pay cars..... ducers instead of consumers, the trade Oficers' cars...... President's car..... and travel on the line then can be better imagined than accurately stated. A great hue and cry has been raised COST OF CONSTRUCTION, MATERIAL, ETC. from time to time regarding the manner Before the work on the road was com of constructing and the management of menced, before even a charter had been the roads. granted, various estimates of the proba With the latter we have nothing to ble cost were placed before the people; do, as we are not competent judges; but but now that the road has been com regarding the manner in which the pleted, and the real cost known, these road has been built, we wish to say we estimates are of little value. From bave been over every foot of both roads, some curious statistics, which have been not only since its completion, but many gleaned from various sources, we give times while they were in course of con- à few figures showing, approximately, struction, and we know whereof we what the road cost, and the amount of speak. material used. In the construction of Though the road has been constructed the whole line there were used about with such extraordinary dispatch, it is 300,000 tons of iron rails; 1,700,000 firm, well built, and as smooth as nine- fish plates; 6,800,000 bolts; 6,126,375 tenths of the older roads. The ties cross-ties; 23,505,500 spikes. number 2,650 to the mile, while the av. Beside this, there was used an incal erage on the Eastern roads is much culable amount of sawed lumber, boards less. The rails are “ fished," making for building, timber for trestles, bridges, one continuous rail, and adding greatly &c. Estimating the cost of the road to the smoothness of the road, and se- complete by that of other first-class curing an easy motion of the cars. The roads ($105,000 per mile), and we have past year has been one of extraordinary the.sum of $181,650,000 as the approxi activity, on the part of the companies, mate cost of the work. in finishing up and balasting their track; ROLLING STOCK. and there is, to-day, no better road-bed But, first, to give the traveler some | in the United State-far better road than idea of the amount of rolling stock re- many older ones. KLAMATH L. GOOSE La Klamath B SISKIYOUT OREGON RR LASSEN CO Het MU ---CALIFYORNIA Sacramento R. HONEY L. PULMAS CO PYRAMID WADSWORTH HOT SPRINGS WHITE PLAINS DESERT A CO SUMMIT VERDIA MARYSVILLE RENO TRUCKEE BOCA CLARKS EMGT GAR COLFAXN discola ALTA CLIPPER GARC AUBURN FLAR GOLD RUN PINO PTruck EVADA CO OB VIRGINIA O GOLD HILL PLACERCA CARSON 0 57 L. TAHOE ProLSAM ELDORADO CO? famorican Bu ES SACRAMENTO VALLEJO Laura So OAKLAND O.STOCKION AMANDORCO, ALPINE CO ALAVERAS Co., stage Borile W.PA TUOLUMNE CO. Sant 2 3.1. R. SAN JOSE Los Angelor VRIR. KYOSEMITE MONOCO O MARIPOSA CO. RA GILROY FRESNO CO. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 17 BAKER HON. OLIVER AMES, President of the Union Pacific Railroad Company. OFFICERS: JOHN DUFF, Vice-President. JOHN M. S. WILLIAMS, Treasurer. E. H. ROLLINS, Asst. Treasurer and Secretary. P. E. SICKLES, Chief Engineer. COL: S. SEYMOUR, Consulting Engineer. J. M. HAM, General Accountant. Col. C. G. HAMMOND, General Superintendent. C. W. MEAD, Assistant General Superintendent. J. R. NICHOLS, Asst. Supt. FRANCIS COLTON, General Ticket Agent. H. BROWNSON, General Freight Agent. Union Pacific Railroad. 1100 GREAT SALTLAKE PROMONTOR ZMIN EN OGDA FIN 1000 12 A WAS(ATCH = MULVSVM ASFEN H MS stiwal 006 BRYAN SCREEN 103 BITTER PROFIL ROCK LINES 008 801 JOZ WYOMING LARAMEE 71 WINNING WSW ! 301 4 OF. ti?Â₂ Ò₂§§ PERCY M LOOKOUT 1 CHEYENNE Uwe Though but little faith was at first felt PROMONTORY. in the success, no one, at the present day, CORINNE can fail to appreciate the enterprise which characterized the progress and FOGDEN final completion of this road, the longest in the world, and its immense value to ECHO our government-the whole people- while those who Igbored diligently for the speedy buildisg of the road, are de- serving the gratitude of the world, its present efficient board of managers are deserving of equal praise for the suc- cessful manner in which they have con- ducted the affairs of an institution of such magnitude. A point on the Mis- souri river, near Omaha, Neb., having been designated as the initial point, BITTER CK. ground was formally broken there on the 5th day of November, 1865, and the work on the Great Trans-Continental Railroad was commenced in earnest by RAWLIN the Union Pacific Railroad Company, By the act of 1862, the time for the completion of the road was specified. The utmost limit was July 1, 1876. LOOKOUT George Francis Train, in his speech LARAMIE on the occasion of breaking ground, SHERMAN said the road would be completed in five years. He was ridiculed for the remark, |. CHEYENNE classed as a dreamer and visionary en-18 thusiast ; the greater portion of the PINE BLUFF people believing that the limited time would find the road unfinished. Old Fogy could not yet understand Young America ; in fact, he never will, because he don't want to—it interferes with his old way, and therefore must be wrong. JULESBURY The first contract for construction on the Union Pacific was made in August, 1864, but various conflicting interests connected with the location of the line, NN.PLATTE delayed yet its progress. Shops must be built, forges erected, all the machin- ery necessary for successful work must be placed in position before much pro- te KEARNEY gress could be made with the work. This was accomplished as speedily as circumstances would permit, and by January, 1866, 40 miles of road had been COLUMBUS constructed, which increased to 265 FREMONT miles during the year; and in 1867, 285 miles more were added, making a total | I OMAHA of 550 miles on January 1, 1868. From PINE BLUFFS SIDNEY 600 GRADES ... JO SHERMANO V 103 JULESEURG 19 FINE BLUFFS PLATEE 101 E SIDNEY BRADITSLA KANS NO CHAND ISLANDS R KEARNE, ALS SCALE 170 MILES TO I INCH OFFICIAL SURVEY'S FROM MAP OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAIL ROAD. 98 96 B.& M.R.R. 100 CR.P.RR. OMAHA HA 401 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 19 that time forward the work was prose posite that part of the town known as cuted with greatly increased energy, and "Traintown." The irrepressible George on May, 30, 1869, the road met the Francis had a kindly business eye for Central Pacific Railroad at Promontory | Omaha some few years since, and prob- Point, Utah Territory—the last 534 ably has yet; but, at that time, he miles having been built in a little more showed his speculative abilities by pur- than 15 months, being an average of chasing, for a nominal sum, several hun- nearly one and one-fifth miles per day. dred acres which eventially must realize MATERIAL USED, AND HOW OBTAINED. their owner a fortune such as million- Most Americans are familiar with the aires are content with. The bridge is history of the road, yet but few are “Post's patent," and will be of iron, half a mile long. The spans are to be 250 aware of the vast amount of labor per- feet in length and eleven in number. - formed, in obtaining the material with It will rest 50 feet above high water which to construct the first portion, There was no railroad nearer Omaha mark and 70 feet above low tide. The piers are to be hollow cylinders—instead than 150 miles eastward, and over this space all the material purchased in the of stone-filled in with concrete, rocks, etc. Eastern cities had to be transported by The railroad bridges over the freight teams at ruinous prices. The Pedee and Santee in South Carolina, and the new wagon and foot bridge laborers were, in most cases, transported across Harlem river, New York, rest on to the railroad by the same route and similar foundations. These piers are means. Even the engine, of 70 horse cast in Chicago, and brought here in the power, which drives the machinery at the Company's Works at Omaha, was shape of enormous rings, ten feet long. conveyed in wagons from Des Moines, The iron is one and three-fourths of an on the river of that name; that being inch in thickness and the tubes are nine the only available means of transporta- and a half feet in diameter. When being put in place, the workmen take one, tion at the time. place it on the sand and cover it with For six hundred miles west of Omaha a cap; the air is then pumped out and the country is bare of lumber, save a the atmospheric pressure drives it down limited supply of cottonwood, on the until the top is level with the surface of Island in and along the Platt River wholly unfit for railroad purposes. East the ground. About twenty-four hours are consumed in sinking one. Then a of the river the same aspect is presented, current of condensed air - let in at the so that the company were compelled to purchase ties cut in Michigan, Pennsyl. bottom by a pipe — drives out the sand through a valve in the top, or cap; but vania and New York at prices reaching if the earth is composed of gravel, the $2.50 per tie. We might add that the air, instead of being exhausted, is con- supplies necessary to feed the vast body of men engaged had to be purchased in densed, and men throw out the gravel the East and thus transported. In less with shovels, working by the lights of candles. When this is accomplished, than a year, however, these obstacles another ring is bolted on, and the pro- had been overcome, and the work pro. cess is repeated until the pier is com- ceeded at much less expense thereafter. plete and reaches the bed rock. This RAILROAD BRIDGE OVER THE MISSOURI | work is being built by the Union Pacific RIVER. Company, will cost two millions of dol- A fine bridge is in course of con lars, and can be completed during the struction, which, when completed, will present year. afford direct transit for the trains, form- ing an unbroken chain from the Atlantic MACHINE SHOPS. to the Pacific. This bridge is located a | On the low land, fronting the little below the present depot, and op. / river, the company have located their 20 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. principal shops and storehouses. They contractors along the line with needed are built of brick, in the most sub material which is usually manufactured stantial form, and, with the out.build at the company shops. The whole road, ings, lumber yard, tracks, etc., cover in fact, with the exception of North about 30 acres of ground. The master Platte station, drew its supplies from mechanic of the road is I. H. Congden. this shop. At the present time, about THE ROUND HOUSE. 350 men are employed in the locomo- This building is one and a half stories tive department, but as freight increases and the want of more cars is felt, the high, of brick, with the exception of force will be increased to meet the de- five stalls, which were the first put up for the road and are built of wood. mand. The building contains twenty stalls in THE FOUNDRY. all, and is under the charge of James The Foundry is a very fine structure, McConnell, master mechanic of the and during the winter of 1868–9 150 Omala shops. men were employed there. About six. MACHINE SHOP. teen tons of castings per day were This is built with very strong walls, turned out, consisting, mostly, of col- and is 60x120 feet in size. It is fur- umns and pillars for the new shops nished with all the new and most im- building along the line. The hotels in course of construction for the company, proved machinery which is necessary for the successful working at all the at the different eating stations, were large receivers of lighter columns and branches of car and locomotive repairs or car construction. Among the ma. pillars-nearly every hotel being built, chines may be seen lathes for turning in part, of iron. driving-wheels, two boring mills for BLACKSMITH SHOP. boring car wheels, and one hydraulic This building is 80x200 feet, one story press, used for pressing car wheels on and a half high, well ventilated, and sup- their axles. plied with 40 forges, which, during the At one time, this shop presented a driving time spoken of, were all em- lively scene when 850 sinewy men ployed, 144 men being at work about were busily engaged in manufacturing | the shop and around the 40 fires. There and repairing cars. All this body of are no shops superior to this, and not men were then connected with the loco. many equal to it, on our oldest rail. motive departinent, and could no more roads. The forges are a curiosity in than keep that department of the road their way, all of them having been cast, in repairs. No other shops on the line at the company's foundry, after a design were then in working order, excepting by Mr. Congden. About 80 men are that at North Platte. Now, the force now employed in the shop, only part of is reduced, as the company are abun the fires being used at present. dantly supplied with cars for the present trade, and the men are scattered along THE STORE ROOMS. the line, forming the working force of This building is 76x80 feet, one and other shops, of which there are many, a half stories high, built with very But during this great rush, they were heavy walls. When we visited it we congregated here, and the machinery | saw stored therein 800 ions of bar iron, was run day and night. As many as | 800 tons sheet and boiler iron, 100 tons eleven locomotives were on the stalls | of bolts, nuts and rivets, enough, onc under repairs at one time ; besides that, I would imagine, to bolt and nut all the they were turning out three freight cars | lines of road which are deficient in fish per day, one passenger car per month plates. Yet all this weight of from 1,700 and one baggage car per week. Dur. to 3,000 tons—for we have spoken of ing this time, they also supplied the l only a portion of the stock disappears GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 21 with marvelous rapidity beneath the became better supplied, they reduced ponderous sledge and ringing hammer, to the force until only about 350 men are re-appear in the various forms and guises employed. in which it is needed in repairs or fur- The painting on these magnificent car- ther construction of side tracks and riages is equal to any we have seen else- turnouts. Fish plates, plow points, where. It is the expressed determina- bars, picks, bolts, bands, etc., lie around tion of the Union Pacific company to in piles, interspersed with shafting, car provide as good cars and coaches for the wheels, axles, cranks, pipes, columns, traveling public, in style and finish, as and many other articles too numerous those of any Eastern road. They rea- to mention, piled in separate stacks, son, that as the great trans-continental with walks between, the whole forming, railroad is the longest and grandest on to the uninitiated, a perfect labyrinth the continent, its rolling stock should be of lanes, which lead only to some new equally grand and magnificent. From mystification, or worse still, a chaotic the appearance of the cars already man- mass of iron in all stages of manufac- factured, they will achieve their desires. ture. On the same principle we propose to CAR AND PAINT SHOP. make our Book superior to any other. The Car Shop is 75x150 feet, one and a half stories high, with a wing 40x100 STATIONARY ENGINE, WATER TANK, &C. feet. The Paint Shop, which might be The engine which furnishes the said to be connected with the Car Shop, power necessary to drive the vast is 30x121 feet. Thirty men are employed amount of machinery in these shops in this shop now; but this number can is of 70 horse power and is a model be increased to sixty, as the exigencies of symmetry and finish. It was haul- of the times may require. ed to its present place in wogons In the car shop 70 men are now em- from Des Moines, Iowa. The engine ployed, though during hurrying times as house is flanked by the transfer tables, many as 300 have been at work there at by which cars are moved from stali one time. The capacity of the shop is to stall, or from shop to shop. A four box cars per day, one coach per large water tank, capable of holding month, two second class passenger cars many thousand gallons, is another fea- or two mail cars during the same pe ture of the establishment. In fact, it riod. would be very difficult for the most The lumber-yard, wherein is stored zealous fault-finder to find scope for his the lumber, is capable of containing five amiable qualities while wandering and a half million feet. The lumber if million feet. The lumber | around the company's shops at Omaha. used in constructing the cars is mostly Flere also are manufactured the oak and ash, obtained in Northern Indi- “Stevens Truck," invented by Car- ana, Wisconsin and Michigan. In point master Stevens. These trucks are of of neatness of finish, strength of build new design, calculated for all kinds of and size, the passenger cars manufac. cars, and are fast superseding those now tured here are unsurpassed by any, and in use. They have been placed under rivaled by few manufactured elsewhere. the Pullman car in many instances, and No part of the car is slighted, and when give perfect satisfaciion. Having thus they are finished, reflect credit on the given a brief description of the road master car-builder, George E. Stevens, and its. working3, with the concluding and on the company, who so liberally remark that about 4,000 men are regu- provide for the case and comfort of the | larly employed in working the line, al- passengers who patronize their road. most as large an army as that with which At one time 900 men were employed in General Taylor started to conquer this department, but as the company | Mexico, we will briefly speak of 22 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. - OMAHA. been almost unparalleled. There are This city is situated on the western many evidences of continued prosperity bank of the Missouri river, on a sloping and future greatness. Like Council upland, about 50 feet above high-water Bluffs, it has a large area of fertile terri- mark, altitude 966 feet. It is the present tory tributary to it, and railroad and terminus of the U. P. R. R. Co., and steamboat connections with the east, a thriving, growing city, of from west, north and south with which to 20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. The State bring trade and wealth to its business capital was first located here, but firms. was removed to Lincoln in 1868. Omaha, though the first settlement NEWSPAPERS, SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. made in Nebraska, is a young city. In 1854 a few squatters located here, among The Omaha Herald, daily, democratic; whom was A. D. Jones, now one of the Republican, daily, politics like its name. “solid” men of the place. In the fall of Nebraska State Journal, The Agricultur. that year he received the appointment ist, and the Western World, monthly of Postmaster for the place, which as journals, are published here. There are yet had no post-office." As Mr. Jones two collegiate institutes and convent was one of the most accommodating of schools, seven private, and six public men, he improvised a post-office by schools in the city. There are also 15 using the crown of his hat for that pur. churches. pose. Few letters arrived, therefore the old plug hat answered every purpose. STAGES, STEAMBOATS & RAILROADS. When the postmaster met one of his few neighbors, if there was a letter for There are two lines of stages, with him, off came the hat from the post headquarters in Omaha, both owned by master's head while he fished out the the "Western Stage Company.” The missive and placed it in the hands of “Northern Stage Line" leaves Omaha its owner. It is said that at times, when daily, Sundays excepted, for Sioux City. the postmaster was on the prairie, some Iowa, distant 100 miles, via Cummings expectant, anxious individual would City, DeSoto, Blair, Fort Calhoun, Deca- chase him for miles until he overtook tur, and Dakota, all these points being the traveling post office and received in Nebraska, and on the Missouri river. his letter. “Large oaks from little The “Southern Stage Line" leaves daily, acorns grow," says the old rhyme, 'tis Sundays excepted, for Troy, Kansas, illustrated in this case. The battered distant 120 miles, via Plattsmouth and hat post-office has given place to a first Nebraska City. Both lines carry the class post-office, commensurate with the United States mail. future growth of the city. It is now The traveler can reach any point on the distributing post-office, and employs the Missouri or Mississippi rivers, north six clerks besides the assistant post- or south, by steamboat, during navi. master. gation. In 1854, the Council Bluffs and Nebras- ka Ferry Co. purchased the land now oc- Besides the Union Pacific, the foun- cupied by the city and erected the first tain head of which is Omaha, and the “claim house,” afterwards known as the connection by ferry with the various St. Nicholas. About this time the other Railroads at Council Bluffs ; name of Omaha was given to the place. Omaha has two other projected lines The town improved steadily until 1859, already commenced, which, when com- when it commenced to gain very rapidly. pleted, will prove important arteries, The inaugurating of the U. P. R. Ř. bringing the wealth of the surrounding gave it another onward impetus, and country to its natural center, since then the growth of the city has | NILULINNIVIINNIWINNITAMINN VITTUNIX LINNVANINVANNUAITINIYADUTIN ETTET NITORIO TARON TO NITI NI UINDIGMINY NINE WAR BUT Dale Creek Bridge, U. P. R. R.-(Described on page 61.) 24 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. THE OMAHA AND NORTH-WESTERN made for its completion during the pre- sent year. RAILWAY. There are 29 manufactories, one dis- OFFICERS. tillery, and six breweries. The whole J. E. BOYD, Prest. number of merchants who reported sales J. A. HORBACH, V. Prest. of and over the value of $25,000 for the J. H. MILLARD, Treas. year 1868, was 85, 25 of whom are whole- J. E. HOUSE, Ch. Eng. sale. The sales of these firms for the year ending May, 1869, foot up a total This Railway Company was chartered of $8,800,000. under the general railway act — giving to any company having ten miles of MILITARY DEPARTMENT OF THE PLATTE. road completed by the fifteenth of This department is under the com- February, 1870, two thousand acres of mand of Brevet Major-General C. C. land to every mile of road, not exceed. Augur, Brigadier-General U. S. A., with ing fifty miles. 'The Omaha and North- headquarters at Omaha, Nebraska. western complied wiih said act, and will PERSONAL STAFF. speedily coutinue the road to the mouth Brevet Major George B. Russel, Aide- of the Niobrara River, with a view of de-Camp; Brevet Lieutenant Colonel extending at some future time to Fort H. G. Litchfield, Aide-de-Camp. Berthold on the Missouri River. The course of the road is five miles up DEPARTMENT STAFF. the Missouri River Valley, then north- Brevet Brigadier General George D. west to the Valley of the Papillion, Ruggles, Assistant Adjutant General; thence to the Elkhorn River and up the Brevet Brigadier General Nelson B. Elkhorn Valley to the mouth of the Sweitzer, Acting Assistant Inspector Niobrara. General; Brevet Brigadier General Wm. Myers, Chief Quartermaster; Brevet THE OMAHA AND SOUTH-WESTERN Brigadier General John W. Barriger, RAILWAY. Chief Commissary; Brevet Brigadier OFFICERS. General Joseph B. Brown, Medical Di. S. S. CALDWELL, Prest. rector ; Brevet Brigadier General Ben- ALVIN SAUNDERS, V. Prest. jamin Alvord, Chief Paymaster; Brevet A. S. PADDOCK, Secretary. Colonel Edward Wright, Paymaster; Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Jacob E The Omaha and South-Western Rail. Burbank, Paymaster; Major R.D.Clarke, way Co. were chartered under the gen. Paymaster; First Lieutenant M. B. eral railway act, having completed i hvir Adams, Chief Engineer; and Brevet first ten miles of road before the fifteenth Major J. R. McGinness, Chief Urdinance of February, 1870. Its course is about Officer. six miles down the Missouri River Val Tbe department consists of the States ley, till very near the mouth of the of Iowa and Nebraska, the Territories Platte, then up the Platte to a point just of Utah, Wyoming and Colorado. ab ive the mouth of Salt Creek and near OMAHA BARRACKS. Ashland, where it crosses the Platte and runs south westerly to Lincoln, the capi- The barracks were established in 1868, tal of Nebraska, which is its terminus. are eight in number, capable of accom modating 1000 men. They are situated HOTELS AND MANUFACTORIES. about three miles north, and in full Omaha bas 11 hotels, thr Cozzens and | view of the city. Latitude 40 Deg. 20 Wyoming taking precedence. Besides | Min.; Longitude 96 Deg. from Green- these, a new hotel is contemplated for | wich. Eighty acres of land is held as which upwards of $150,000 has been sub. | reserved, though no reservation has yet scribed, and strong efforts are being been declared at this post. There is an GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 25 excellent carriage road to the barracks, be prepared to enjoy the trip-to ap- and the post commander, General Pal. preciate the scenes which will rise bo- mer, bas constructed a fine drive around fore you. Above all, forget everything them, which affords pleasure parties an | but the journey,--and in this consists excellent opportunity to witness the the secret of having a good time-gener- dress-parades of "the boys in blue." | ally while crossing the plains. It is a favorite resort on Sundays; the parade, the finedrive, and improvements HOW TO TRAVEL. around the place, calling out many of One must not expect to have all of the the fashionable pleasure seekers of comforts of a luxurious hotel or his own Omaha. The grounds have been planted pleasant home while crossing the vast with sbade trees, and in a few years it distance between Omaha and San will become one of the many pleasant | Francisco, unless he takes passage in a places around the growing city of Pullman Palace Sleeping Car on the U. Omaha. P. R. R. and a Silver Palace Sleeping The post is the main distributing point Car on the C. P. R. R., thereby insuring for all troops and stores destined for the | a refreshing sleep and a palace by day western side of the “Big Muddy.” The and night. This, however, costs an ex- barracks were erected for the purpose of tra fee. These splendid coaches ac- quartering the troops during the winter company each train. season, when their services were not re. Another hint regading traveling, quired on the plains-and as a general which conductors very much dislike to rendezvous for all troops destined for give, we offer freely. It is not custom- that quarter. It is now under command ary, it is not polite, it is not right or of Brevet Brigadier General I. N. Pal. just for a lady to occupy one whole seat mer, colonel second cavalry. The gar | with her flounces and herself, and an- rison consists of companies A, B, C, E, | other with her satchel, parasol, big box, I, K and M, of the 2nd Cavalry and little box, bandbox and bundle, as we companies A and C of the 9th Infantry. have often seen them do, while otbers At present there is no chaplain. But are obliged to remain standing in the we must take our leave of Omaha, as crowded car. Tbe woman who indulges the whistle is sounding its warning in such flights of fancy as to suppose signal to step into the cars and com that one fare entitles her to monopolize mence our journey over the plains to three seats should not travel until bloom- the far west. We pass along through ers come in fashion. the suburbs of the town for about fuur bix miles beyond Summit Siding, we miles, when we arrive at arrive at SUMMIT SIDING (A flag Station.) GILLMORE at an altitude of 1142 feet. We are Ten miles from Omaha. Elevation 976 leaving the busy hum and ceaseless bus | feet. Passenger trains make a short tle of city life, for the quiet country, the grand mountains, the barren desert and The country around this station is wide-sweeping plain; for all these rich prairie land, well cultivated. A varied features of the earth's surface | small cluster of buildings is near the will b' encountered before we reach our | road, the station is of little importance, destination—the Pacific shore. Then merely for local accommodation. Five lay aside city prrjudices and ways for niiles beyond we come to a time-leave them by this little side- track station, until you return and for PAPILLION (Pap-e-o). once in your life be natural, while | Elevation, 972 feet. The station is on among nature's loveliest and grandest the east side of Papillion river, or creek, creations. Having done this, you will as it is often called, a narrow stream, of 26 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. some 50 miles in length, which, running | find ample sport and a hospitable home southward, empties into Elkhorn river, with almost any of the German set- a few miles below the station. The tlers. bridge over tbe stream is a very substan- VALLEY. tial wooden structure. Elevation, 1,120 feet. The Platte ELKHORN. river hills can be seen in the distance, This station on the east bank of Elk. but a few miles away, in a south-west- horn river, is 14 miles beyond the last erly direction. Between Valley ard named, and is of more importance in | Fremont we catch the first view of the point of freight-it being the outlet of Platte river to the left. Elkhorn river valley. Its elevation is FREMONT. 1,150 feet. Twelve miles after leaving Valley we Immediately after leaving the station, come to Fremont, the county-seat of we cross Elkhorn river, a stream of about Dodge county, Nebraska, Elevation, 300 miles in length. It rises among the 1,176 feet. It is a telegraph, passenger hills of the divide, near where the head and eating station. Here is one of the waters of Niobrara river rise and wend best eating houses on the whole line, their way toward their final destination, kept in one of the Railroad company's the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn substantial buildings, by Messrs Chas, creek, or river, is east of south. It is Tenent & Brother, who cater to the one of the few streams in this part satisfaction of all. The town is situated suitable for mill purposes, and posses about three miles from Platte river, and ses many excellent mill sites along its contains a population of about 2,000 course. The valley of this stream people. The Company have, besides averages about 8 miles in width, and is their excellent depot at this station, a of the best quality of farming land. It round house with six stalls. The public is thickly settled by Germans for over buildings include a jail and court house, 100 miles in length. At this station, (both very necessary, though more use- both freight and passenger trains stop ; ful than ornamental), three churches the passenger trains only for a few and some fine school-houses. It is a minutes. Some varieties of fish are thriving place in the midst of a beauti- found in the stream; the pickerel being ful country. The Sioux City and among the number, and very plenty: | Pacific R. Ř. connects here with the U. The buffalo fish, pike, cat, and several P., and with its connections at St. other kinds are caught in great numbers. John, Iowa, the C. & N. W. R. R., give Wild turkey on the plains, and among a route 33 miles shorter to Chicago the low hills, along with deer and ante than via Omaha and Council Bluffs. lope, afford sport and excitement for We are now fairly on the Platte river, the hunter. The river swarms with and for many miles we shall pass closely ducks and geese at certain seasons of along its north bank, at other times, the year, that come here to nest and feed. the course of the river can only be The natural thrift of the German is traced by the timber growing on its manifested in his well conducted farms, banks. Broad plains are the principal comfortable houses, surrounded by features, skirted in places with low growing orcbards and well tilled gar abrupt hills, which here in this level *dens. There is no pleasanter valley in country, rise to the dignity of “ bluffs." Nebraska than this, or one where the traveller will find a better field for ob- THE PLATTE RIVER serving the rapid growth and great It would never do to omit a descrip- natural resources of the Northwest; tion of this famous stream, up the banks and should he choose to pass a week or | of which so many emigrants toiled in more in hunting and fishing, he will the “ Whoa haw” times, from 1850 to H w Wh ! IM Hanging Rock, Echo Canyon. (See page 90.) 30 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. Platte river was not a reliable fact, we near the river bank, and surrounded by did not exactly mean it in that sense, a fine agricultural country, where luxu. It has not done much for navigation. riant crops of corn give evidence of the neither will it, yet it drains the waters fertility of the soil. For a few miles we of a vast scope of country, thereby ren ride nearer the river's bank than at any dering the vast valleys fertile, and fur- point between Fremont and North nishing almost numberless acres, which Platte. The south bank of the Platte now await but the advent of the hardy | is lined with timber, mostly cottonwood, and industrious pioneer, to place them which presents a beautiful appearance, in the front rank of grain producing and suggests the feasibility of raising countries. The average width of the timber in profusion on these plains. river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the junction of the North SCHUYLER. and South Forks, is not far from three Fourteen miles beyond North Bend, fourths of a mile; its average depth we stop at Schuyler, the county-seat of about six inches. It is unnavigable for Colfax county. This is a telegraph and anything but a shingle, even in its passenger station. Elevation, 1,335 feet. highest stage. In the months of Sep. The town contains some 300 or 400 in- tember and October, the river is at habitants. The country appears to be its lowest stage. The water is of the unchanged-presenting the same gen- same muddy color that characterizes eral appearance as that through which the Missouri river, caused by the quick we have passed. Eight miles from sand bottom. Schuyler we pass The lands lying along this river, be. longing to the U. P. R. R., are now in COOPER, the market, and the company are offer A new and unimportant flag-station. ing liberal terms and great inducements COLUMBUS. to settlers. Most of the land is as fine Ninety-two miles from Omaha, and agricultural and grazing land as can be 16 miles from Schuyler, we arrive at found in any section of the Northwest. Columbus, a telegraph and passenger Should it be deemed necessary to irri. gate these plains, as some are inclined station. Elevation, 1,432 feet. The to think is the case, there is plenty of town contains about 1,000 inhabitants, three churches, good schools, and several fall in either fork, or in the main river, hotels and eating houses. It is the for the purpose, and during the months when irrigation is required, there is county.seat of Platte county, and is call- ed by George Francis Train the geo- plenty of water for that purpose, com- ing from the melting snow on the moun- graphical center of the United States. tains. Ditches could be led from He advocated the proposition that the either stream and over the plains at lit- government buildings should be located tle expense. Many, however, claim here, and the capitol removed from that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is Washington to this point. Probably, unnecessary. We now return to the when George is elected President in '72, road and the stations. he will carry out the idea, and we shall behold the capitol of the Union located KETCHUM, in the center of the publtc domain. At Seven miles west of Fremont, is a one time this was a very busy place; new station of but little importance. large amounts of government corn being Eight miles further, and we arrive at shipped to this point by rail in July and August of '67. Over 10,000,000 of NORTH BEND, pounds were re-shipped on wagons from A telegraph and passenger station. Ele this point to Laramie and the govern- vation, 1,259 feet. This is a thriving ment posts and camps in the Powder town of some 400 inhabitants, situated | river country. This was the first gov- GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 31 ernment shipment of freight over the and one Methodist church, three stores, Union Pacific Railroad. one brewery, and a fine school-house Soon after leaving Columbus, we The country is well cultivated ; fields of cross Loup Fork on a fine wooden corn, wheat and oats greeting the eye bridge, constructed in a substantial along each side of the road manner. This stream rises 75 miles Grand Island, from which the station northeast of North Platte City, and runs takes its name, is the largest island in through a fine farming country, until it the Platte river. It is about 80 miles unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish long by four wide, well wooded and of of various kinds are found in the stream, fertile soil. The timber is mostly and its almost innumerable tributaries. cottonwood. The island is reserved by These little streams water a section of Government and is guarded by soldiers. country unsurpassed in fertility and ag- It is the most beautiful point on the ricultural resources. Game in abun river. dance is found in the valley of the Loup, After leaving this point, the traveler consisting of deer, antelope, turkeys and should keep his “eye peeled” for buf- prairie chickens, while the streams falo. For the next 200 miles he will abound in ducks and geese. North of be within the buffalo range, where, at this point lies the Pawnee Reservation. certain seasons of the year, these ani- We now cross the Loup Fork and soon mals cross the river. During the spring, arrive at they cross from the Arkansas and Re- · JACKSON, (A Flag Station,) publican valleys-where they have wintered-to the northern country, re- Between Columbus and Silver creek. turning late in the fall. A friend sitting After leaving Jackson, we cross Silver by my side says that in '60, immense creek. and arrive at quantities were on these plains, on the SILVER CREEK STATION. south side of the Platte, near Fort Elevation, 1,534 feet. This point is 17 Kearney, the herds being so large that miles from Columbus, and 12 miles east often emigrant trains had to stop while of . they were crossing the road. At Fort CLARK'S STATION, Kearney, in '59 and '60, an order was A side track and signal station be. issued forbidding the soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground. During tween Silver Creek and the last two or three years these huge LONE TREE. animals have been seen in that section. Elevation, 1,686 feet. The “old emi. Leaving Grand Island we pass a signal grant road” from Omaha tu Colorado station, called crosses the river opposite this point, at PAWNEE, the old “Shinn's Ferry.” Soon after leaving this station we CHAPMAN'S STATION. cross Wood river, on a substantial Elevation, 1,716 feet. A signal station bridge, and for several miles follow 10 miles from Lone Tree, and 12 miles close along its banks, which are thickly from settled, the farms now being covered with luxuriant crops of wheat, oats and GRAND ISLAND, corn. Wood river rises is the bluffs, Named after an island in the Platte and runs south east until its waters river, about two miles distant. This is unite with those of the Platte. Along one of the regular eating-stations, 30 the whole length of the stream, and its minutes being allowed for that purpose. many tributaries, in land for agricultu- The Nebraska House is the principal | ral purposes, is unsurpassed by none hotel in the place. The town contains in the Northwest, and we might say, from 500 to 600 inhabitants, one Catholic in the world. The banks of the river 32 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. and tributaries are well wooded; the the Ninth Infantry. Company E of the streams abound in fish and wild fowl ; 9th Infantry is stationed here. Post- and the country adjacent is is well sup Surgeon-Dr. W. H. Bradley. At high plied with game, deer, antelope, tur water it is very difficult to cross the keys, chickens, rabbits, etc., formning | river with supplies for the fort, there a fine field for the sportsman. being no bridge in this vicinity; from This valley was one of the earliest the station, the goods are conveyed to settled in Central Nebraska, the liardy the fort by government teams. Latitude, pioneers taking up their lands when the 40 Leg. 33 Min, longitude 99 Deg. 06 savage Indians held possession of this, Min. Two miles above the fort, on the their favorite hunting ground. Several south bank, is Kearney City, more com- times the settlers were driven froni their monly called “Dobey Town.” This was homes by the Indians, suffering fearfully once a great point with the old Over- in loss of life and property, but they as land Stage Company, and at that time often returned, until they succeeded in contained about 1,000 inhabitants, who, securing a firm foot hold. To day the with the withdrawal of the patronage evidences of the struggle can be seen in of the line and the abandonment of the the low, strong cabins, covered on top south-side route of travel, left the town with turf, and the walls loop-holed, and to ruin and desolation. Now, we are enclosed with the same material which told, the inhabitants consis of but “our guards tbe roofs from the bullets and old cat and another one,” though what flaming arrows of the warriors. number of people that expresses, we WOOD RIVER STATION, are unable to determine. Telegraph and passenger station, 10 STEVENSON, miles from Pawnee. Elevation, 1907 Side track and flag station, 10 miles feet. Considerable freight is left here from Kearney station. We now see for the Wood river country. Jess evidence of civilization, except what GIBBON. is in connection with the railroad. Side-track and flag station, between ELM CREEK, Wuod river and This station is 11 miles from Steven- KEARNEY. son and 211 from Omaha, and is the de- This station is 8 miles from Gibbon. pot for the wood cut on Elm creek, A Elevation 2,106 feet. Telegraph and few small houses constitute the “town.” Elm creek is crossed soon after leav. passenger station. It is named after old Fort Kearney, on the south side of ing the station, and is a small, though the Platte, opposite the station. quite a lengthy stream. It is well- wooded, the timber consisting almost FORT KEARNEY entirely of red elm, rarely found else- In the military district of the Republican, where in this part of the country, and under command of Major General U. H. there is plenty of goor farming land Emory, was establisbed, as Fort Childs, here, still unsettled. Indian Territory, in 1818 by volunteers OVERTON, of the Mexican War. Changed to Fort Intervening side-track station. Kearney in March, 1849. In 1858 the PLUM CREEK, post was rebuilt by the late Brevet Colonel Chas. May, 5d Dragoons. It is This station is 9 miles west of Over- situated, five miles south of Kearney ton and 230 from Omaha. Elevation, Station, on the south bank of the Platte, 2370 feet. Named after an old stage which is at this point three miles wide station and military camp on Plum and filled with small islands. It is creek, a small stream which heads in commanded by Captain E. Pollock, of very rugged bluffs southwest of the old GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 33 stage station, and empties its waters They are pierced with loop-holes on all into the Platte on the south or opposite | sides, and afforded a safe protection side of the river from the railroad. against the Indians. They generally This old station on the “old emigrant stood about fifty yards from the dwell- road,” was the nearest point to the Re ing, from which an underground passage publican river country, being but 18 led to the fort. When attacked, they re- miles from that stream—the heart of the retreated to their fortification, and there great Indian rendezvous and their sup fought it out on that line. posed secure stronghold. At this point WARREN. many of the most fearful massacres which occurred during the earliest emi Side-track and flag station between gration were perpetrated by the Sioux, | Willow Island and Cheyennes and Arapahoes. The bluffs here come very close to the river, af- BRADY ISLAND. fording the savages an excellent oppor A telegraph, military, freight and pas- tunity for surprising a train, and senger station, 268 miles from Omaha, being very abrupt and cut up with and 8 miles west of Warren. Eleva- gulches and canyons, afforded them am tion, 2,637 feet. The station derives its ple hiding places, from which they name from an island in the river, which swooped down on the luckless emigrant, is of considerable size. A few rough often massacreing the larger portion of houses constitute the town. Soldiers the party. were formerly drawn up in line on the CAYOTE. arrival of trains here and at many oth- Here the bottoms are very wide, hav- | er stations along the line detailed to ing steadily increased in width for sey- protect the company's men and proper- eral miles. Along the river is heavy ty from any wandering bands of Indians cottonwood timber, which has extended | who may chance to pass through this for the last 50 miles. From this point part of the valley, as this is one of their westward the timber gradually decreases favorite crossings. in size and quantity. FORT M'PHERSON. WILLOW ISLAND, Headquarters District of the Republic A telegraph and passenger station 250 can. This post was established Feb. 20, miles from Omaha, and 10 miles beyond 1866, by Major S. W. O'Brien, of the Cayote. Elevation, 2,511 feet. Here 7th Íowa Cavalry. It was originally may be seen a few board and log houses, known as “Cantonment McKeon," and with their sides pierced with loop-holes also as “ Cottonwood Springs.” At the and walled up with turf, the roofs being close of the war, when the regular army covered with the same material, which gradually took the place of the volun- reminds one of the savage, against teers who had been stationed on the whom these precautions were taken frontier during the rebellion, the names It derives its name from an island in the of many of the forts were changed, and Platte, the second in size in that stream. they were re-named in memory of And we might add, that from here up those gallant officers who gave their the river the traveler will doubtless ob- | lives in defense of their country. Fort serve many of the rude forts along the McPherson was named after Major- roadside as well as at the stations. The General James B. McPherson, who was deserted ranches to be met with along killed in the battle before Atlanta, Geor- the "old emigrant road,” on the south gia, July 22d, 1864. The post is now side of the river, are fortified in the commanded by Brevet Major-General same manner. The fort was generally W. H. Emory, Colonel of the 5th built of logs, covered on top and walled | Cavalry. Companies F, H, I, Land M, on the side in the manner described.) of the 5th Cavalry constitute the garri. 34 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. son. Assistant Surgeon A. D. Willson, U. S. A., is acting surgeon. The distance from McPherson Sta- tion is seven miles, from which place the garrisons receive their supplies. There is no bridge across the stream, and in high water persons visiting the fort are obliged to go to North Platte Station, where they can cross the river by a better ford. Latitude, 41 deg.; lon- gitude, 100 deg. 30 min. M'PHERSON, Nine miles from Brady's. From this point it is about 6 miles to the river. The station was named in honor of General McPherson; and from existing signs one would think that his services or that of some other fighting man had been needed here in former times. NORTH PLATTE RIVER. Leaving McPherson, we ride for about 13 miles, when we arrive at the North Platte, which we cross on a very long and substantial trestle bridge. The river rises in the mountains of Colora- do, in the North Park. Its general course is to the southeast. It is crossed again by the railroad at Fort Steele, 695 miles west of Omaha. The general characteristics of the stream are similar to those of the main river. On the west bank of this stream, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow, rendered famous by General Harney, who gained a decisive victory over the Sioux Indi- ans. For 100 miles up this river the “ bottoms” are from 10 to 15 miles wide -very rich lands, wbich are susceptible of cultivation, though, perhaps, requir- ing irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this valley, together with nu- merous bands of wild horses. Fort Laramie is situated on this stream, about 150, miles from the junc- tion, near where the Laramie river unites with this stream. After crossing the river and proceeding about one mile we arrive at the end of the Platte division, and the beginning of the Lodge Pole division. NORTH PLATTE CITY. The city is 291 miles west of Omaha ; 1485 miles east of Sacramento. Eleva- tion, 2,789 feet. The road was finished to this place, November, 1866. Here the company have a stone round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and repair shop, all of stone. Company K of the Ninth Infantry, Brevet Lieut. Colonel C. D. Emory commanding, is stationed at this place to guard the bridge, etc. In its palmi- est days, the city boasted a population of over 2,000, which is now reduced to as many hundreds, independent of the company men. Until the road was fin- ished to Julesburg, which was accom- plished in June, '67, all freight for the West was shipped from this point, and then the town was in the height of its prosperity. Then the gamblers, the roughs and scallawags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their presence, lived in clover ; for was there hard working, foolish men enough in the town to afford them an easy living. When the town began to decay they sallied forth, and for many months fol. lowed up the road, cursing with their Upas blight every camp and town, until some one of their numerous victims turned on them and “ laid them out," or an enraged and long suffering commu- nity arose in their own defense, binding themselves together, a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal tribunal, took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first projection, high and strong enough to sustain their worthless car- casses, until they'“ went dead again.” and the country was rid of their pres- ence. Some few escaped the just pun. ishment of their crimes, and may yet be seen at some points of the road, plying their nefarious games, and robbing their unsuspecting countrymen. A portion of the roughs who followed up the U. P R. R., have found their way to Sacra- mento and San Francisco, where their crimes have already caused the citizens of those cities to talk of reorganizing their old vigilance committees. Should W Will 2427 SUNPN WARI w WWWWWWWWWA HHIA e- RUM Devil's Slide, Weber Canyon, U. P. R. R. Described on page 94. 36 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. this event occur, a stout rope and a ing ground of the Indians. These bluffs short shrift will be the last of the roughs are the first of a series of sand hills, of the U. P. R. R. ; for the climate of which extend north and south for sev. California, is decidedly unhealthy for eral hundred miles. At this point, the these lawless desperadoes. valley is much narrower than that But to return to our notes of the city, through which we have passed. Here from which we have incidentally wan we first enter the “alkali belt,” which dered, as the man remarked when ex extends from this point to Julesburg, plaining how he became separated from about 70 miles. The soil and water is his wife. The town now consists of strongly impregnated with alkaline sub- about 25 wooden and log buildings, in. stances. We now leave the best farm- cluding a jail (a very usetul institution) ing lands, and enter the grazing country. The Railroad House-a fine building- ALKALI. was burned to the ground about the 1st of July, 1869; but now another build- This station is directly opposite the ing of the same size and finish has been old stage station of that name, on the erected by the energetic railroad com. south side of the river. After leaving pany, where passengers can obtain a the station, the road passes through the first-rate meal. The company have a sand-bluffs, which here come close to round-house of 20 stalls, blacksmith and the river's brink. A series of cuts and repair shop, built of stone located here. fills, extending for several miles, brings The country now bears the appearance us on to the bottom land again, when of a grazing instead of an agricultural we arrive at section, though excellent farming land ROSCOE, is found along the river-bottoms, still A small, unimportant station. unoccupied. OGALALLA. NICHOLS, This station is 342 miles from Omaha. Eight miles west of North Platte. | Elevation, 3,192 feet. Ten miles further After leaving Platte City, we turn more we come to to the west and pass for 17 miles over BRULE, a broad prairie when we arrive at A small, unimportant station. On the O'FALLON'S STATION, south side of the river, opposite, is the Nine miles from Nichols, gradually old ranche and trading post of the noted we lose sight of the timber, and when Indian trader and Indian Peace Com- we reach the sand bluffs, just above the missioner-Beauva. Just below this station, it has entirely disappeared. Here point is the old California crossing, on the south side of the river, is the fa where the emigrants crossed when mous O'Fallon's Bluffs, a series of sand striking for the North Platte and Fort hills interspersed with ravines and gulch Laramie. es, which come close to the river's bank, BIG SPRINGS. forming abrupt bluffs, which turned the This station is 9 miles west of Brule, emigrants back from the river, forcing and 360 from Omaha. Elevation, 3,325 them to cross these sand hills, a distance feet. The station derives its name from of eight miles, through loose yielding a large spring--the first found on the sand, devoid of vegetation. Here, as road which makes out of the bluffs, well as at all points where the bluffs opposite the station, on the right hand come near the river, the emigrants suf. side of the road, and in plain view fered severely, at times, from the attacks from the cars. The water is excellent, of the Indians. Opposite, and extend and will be found the best along this ing above this point, is a large island in road. After leaving this station we the river, which was once a noted camp- pass by a series of cuts and fills- GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 37 another range of bluffs, cut up by nar- hard wood they could get at double the row ravines and gorges. At points, the price, or $210 per cord, which by many road runs so near the river-bank that was thought to be a “pretty soft snap." the water seems to be right under the The “hard wood” was obtained in the cars. Just before we arrive at the next scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 50 miles station-Julesburg—we can see the old south of Denver City, and cost no more town of that name on the south side of for transportation than did the pine. the river. The town consists of a few John Hughes, of Denver, was the con- dobey houses, now deserted. The tractor-a more successful and enter- town was named after Jules Burg, who prising one it would be hard to find in was brutally assassinated, as will be Colorado or elsewhere. related in another part of the GUIDE. FORT SEDGWICK. JULESBURG STATION. This post was established May 19, This is a telegraph, military, freight 1864, by the Third United States Vol. and pasenger station, 16 miles from Big unteers, and named after Major-General Springs, and 377 from Omaha. Eleva- | John Sedgwick, Colonel Fourth Caval- tion, 3,394 feet. The road was com ry, U. S. A., who was killed in battle at pleted to this point about the last of Spottsylvania Court House, Virginia, June, '67, and all Government freight May 9th, 1864. Brevet Lieutenant-Col- tor the season was shipped to this place, onel E. F. Townsend, Major 9th In- to be reshipped on wagons to its desti fantry, is commander of this post. The nation. At that time Julesburg had a garrison consists of companies B and population of 4,000; now the town is D of the 9th Infantry and company K, completely deserted, except as a point 2d Cavalry. Postº Chaplain, David for receiving military supplies for Fort White; Post Traders, Chambers & Co. Sedgwick, four miles south and on the Located in the northeast corner of Col. south bank of the river. During the orado Territory, on the south side of “lively times," Julesburg was the South Platte river, four miles distant, roughest of all rough towns along the on the old emigrant and stage road Union Pacific line. The roughs con to Colorado. Latitude, 41 deg.; lon- gregated there, and a day seldom pas gitude, 102 deg. 30 min. sed but what they “ had a man for breakfast.” Gambling and dance houses THE SOUTH FORK OF THE PLATTE RIVER. constituted a good portion of the town; This stream, which we have ascended and it is said that morality and honesty to this place, and are now about to clasped hands and departed from the leave, rises in the Middle Park of the place. We have not learned whether Rocky Mountains, Colorado Territory they ever returned ; and really we have The valley extends from Julesburg, up our doubts about their ever having been the river about 225 miles, to where the there. river emerges from the mountains. The From this point to Denver, Colorado, average width of the valley is about the distance is 200 miles, following the three miles, and the soil affords excel. course of the Platte river. During the lent grazing. Game is abundant along winter of '65 and '66 most of the wood the entire length of the valley. used at Julesburg and Fort Sedgwick Leaving Julesburg, the road turns to was hauled on wagons from Denver, at the northwest, and follows up the val- an expense of from $60 to $75 per cord | ley of the Lodge Pole creek, near to for transportation alone,and was sold to Egbert Station, about 100 miles distant. Government, by contract, at $105 per | The last of Utah and California emigra- cord. The wood cost in Denver about tion crossed the Platte river at Jules- $20. Besides this, the contractors were burg, and followed up this valley to the allowed by Government to put in what Cheyenne Pass. 38 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. CHAPPEL. in earnest. Mr. Andrews was married A new station 10 miles west of Jules the night before he left Denver, to a burg, and 10 miles east of very estimable young lady. He started for Chicago for the purpose of purchas- LODGE POLE STATION. ing a stock of goods, and when within Elevation, 3,800 feet. The valley is a few miles of the American Ranch the narrow and furnishes fine grazing lands, | party was attacked by the savages and on which may be seen, at almost any | Mr. Andrews was slain. In July, 1869, time, large herds of antelope. Eleven General Carr surprised a war party at miles further we arrive at these springs, and slew fifty-two of the COLTON. red fiends, captured seventeen women and children, three hundred and fifty A new station six miles east of animals, eighty-six lodges and a large SIDNEY, amount of camp equipage. He also Nebraska Territory. Company F, of rescued one white woman, who had the 9th Infantry is stationed here under been a prisoner among them for over command of Brevet Major Chas. O. three years. Wood, Captain 9th Infantry. A reg This rendered the savages friendly ular eating station, where trains stop for a while those who were slain-and thirty minutes. in our opinion (and we have had several The company have a round house, of 1 years' experience of Western life and ten stalls, and machine shop at this Indians), this method of dealing with place, which add to the interest and these incarnate fiends is far preferable business of the station. The place con and more effective than any method tains about 100 inhabitants, and is the adopted or advocated by maudlin sen- most important station between North timentalists or sober faced broad-brims. Platte and Cheyenne. BROWNSON, (A Flag Station,) Fifty-six miles southwest from this ₂ÂòÂ?Â₂Ò₂ÂŻ₂ūņģ₂₂Ầti\/₂m₂?Â₂Ò₂Â₂Ò₂ÂòÂ₂Ò₂§ ₂m₂₂ Nine miles west of Sidney. Ten miles South Platte river, is Kelley's Springs, further we arrive at named after Wm. Kelley, an old pio- POTTER. neer, formerly of the American Ranch, on the old “Platte river road." These Elevation, 4,370 feet. Large quanti- springs were noted as a resort for In- ties of wood are stored here, which is cut about 20 miles north of this point, dians, where they were wont to con- gregate ; and from their secure position on Lawrence Fork and Spring Canyon, the war parties would swoop down on tributaries of the North Platte river. to Valley Station, Wisconsin and Amer- PRAIRIE DOG CITY. ican Ranches and the luckless emigrants. After one of these forays they would At this point, and for several miles return to their fastness with their pris. up and down the valley, the dwellings oners and plunder. From this rendez- of the prairie-dogs frequently occur. But vous, in 1864, a war party started, which, three miles west of the station they are among other ruthless deeds, slew Mr. found in great numbers, and there the Henry Andrews, then a young and es- great prairie-dog city is situated. It teemed citizen of Denver, but formerly occupies several hundred acres on each of Chicago. He was one of the first side of the road, where these sagacious slain; and the excitement caused by his little animals have taken land and death induced the citizens of Colorado erected their dwellings, without buying to arm and prepare to defend their lots of the company. (We do not know homes and the emigration. Men were whether the company intend to eject raised for service-for a hundred days them.) Their dwellings consist of a -and the Colorado Indian War began little mound, (with a hole in the top,) 40 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. found in all the mountain ranges. eastern-bound trains will be loaded with From the base of the mountains, nearly | cattle and sheep for the Chicago, New across this grazing belt, cattle find York and Boston markets; for to this abundant water, for the mountain val section must the East eventually turn leys are each supplied with creeks and for their supply of meat. We are well rivers. Springs abound, in various acquainted with parties who, but a few sections, so that no very large section years since, started in the business of of land is devoid of natural watering stock-raising, in Colorado, with but lim- places. The grass grows from nine to ited means. Now they are the owners twelve inches high, and is peculiarly of large herds of stock, which they have nutritious. It is always green near the raised in that Territory without ever roots, summer and winter. During the feeding them one pound of hay or grain. summer the dry atmosphere cures the No drought, which has been expe- standing grass as effectually as though rienced in these Territories, has ever cut and prepared for hay. The nu- seriously affected the pasturage, owing tritive qualities of the grass remain un. to the peculiar qualities of the grasses injured, and stock thrive equally well indigenous to the country. on the dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very dry, unlike that which BUSHNELL falls in more humid climates. It may This is another unimportant station, cover the grass to the depth of a few with side-track. Elevation, 4,860 feet. inches, but the cattle readily remove it, Near this station, we leave Nebraska, reaching the grass without trouble. and enter the dominion of the young Again, the snow does not stick to the Territory of Wyoming. Although in a sides of the cattle and melt there, chill different territory, we find no change ing them through, but its dryness in the features of the country worthy causes it to roll from their backs, leav of note. Bushnell is 12 miles west of ing their hair dry. The cost of keeping Antelope. stock in this country is just what it will cost to employ herders—no more. The PINE BLUFFS. contrast between raising stock here Ten miles further west and we come and in the East must be evident—80 to Pine Bluffs. During the building of much so, that even a blind man could the road, this place was known as see it. Again, by stocking this country “Rock Ranch.” Considerable wood- with sheep, an untold wealth would be pitch pine-is cut for the railroad in the added. The mountain streams afford bluffs, a few miles to the southward, ample water power for manufactories, from which the station derives its name. and wool enough could be grown here The bluffs are on the left hand side of with which to clothe all the people of the road, and at this point are quite the Union, when manufactured into | high and rocky, extending very near cloth. With the railroad to transport the track. Elevation of Pine Bluff the cattle and sheep to the Eastern station, 5,026 feet. market, what is there to prevent im- mense fortunes from being realized FORT MORGAN. here by stock-raising? Already Colo Established in May, 1865; was aban. rado contains over a million of sheep doned in May, 1868, and its garrison and vast herds of cattle. One man in transferred to Laramie. It is about 60 Southern Colorado has over 40,000 head miles north of this station, on the of the former kind of stock, and yet North Platte River, at the Western Colorado possesses no advantages for base of what is known as Scott's Bluffs. this business which is unshared by this | Latitude, 40 dg. 30 min.; longitude, portion. The time will come when the 27 dg. 42 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. EGBERT. bank of a small creek, dry at intervals. An unimportant station, 11 miles About 10 miles from Hillsdale, we leave beyond the bluffs. Near this point we the bed of the creek, and rise on to the leave Lodge Pole creek. From this table land, and then, if the day be a fair point to the source of the stream in the one, the traveler can catch the first Black Hills, about 40 miles away, the val. glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, di- ley presents the same general appearance rectly ahead. On the right we can until it reaches the base of the moun- catch glimpses of the Black Hills, tains. Bear, deer and wolves abound stretching their cold, dark ruggedness in the country around the source of the far away to the right-as far as the eye stream, and herds of antelope are scat. can see; but the bold, black line, that tered over the valley. At one time dark shadow on the horizon—which will soon take tangible shape and reality- beavers were plenty in the creek, and a few of these interesting animals are but which now seems to bar our way as still to be found in the lower waters of as with a gloomy impenetrable barrier, the stream, near to its junction with the is the “Great Rocky Mountain Chain, Platte. This valley was once a favorite the back-bone of the American conti. hunting ground of the Sioux and Chey. nent, though bearing different names in ennes, who long resisted the attempts to the Southern Hemisphere. The high- remove them to the reservation. est peak which can be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides HILLSDALE. gleaming above the general darkness, Twelve miles west of Egbert we is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks reach Hillsdale, an unimportant station. on the continent. Away to the left It was named after a Mr. Hill, one of rises Pike's Peak, its towering crest the engineer party, who was killed near robed in snow. It is one of those this place by the Indians while he was mountains which rank among the lofti. engaged in his duty. The party were est. It is one of Colorado's grandest locating the present site of the road mountains, and on a fair day is plainly when attacked. visible from this point, 175 miles dis- About 50 miles to the south is “Fre tant. Should the air be very clear, mont's orchard," on the South Platte farther away still, and more to the left, river, about 65 miles below Denver City, the long line of the Spanish peaks can Colorado, and in that Territory. It was be distinctly traced with a good glass. named after Col. Fremont, who discov But while we are gazing on the newly. ered tbis point in his exploring expedi opening scenes of mountain range and tion. It consists of a large grove of cot snowy peaks, the cars have glided on tonwood trees, mostly on the south side their way-for they have no sentiment of the river. The river here makes an -and we arrive at abrupt bend to the north, then another to the south, cutting its way through a ARCHER, high range of sand hills--the third An unimportant station on the table. rapge from the Missouri river. Where land ; and a little farther on we enter the river forces its way through the Crow Creek valley. After passing bluffs, they are very high and abrupt through a series of cuts and fills, we on the south side. The two bends can see the Denver Pacific R. R., on the leave a long promontory of sand hills, left side. Directly ahead can be seen, the end of which is washed by the for several miles, the far-famed “Magic waters. At a distance, this grove of City of the Plains ;” but in less time cottonwoods on the bottom land re. than it takes us to tell it, the space has minds one of an old orchard, such as been passed, the puffing locomotive has are often seen in the Eastern States. ceased its angry snorts, and is station- Leaving Hillsdale, we pass along the | ary once more, and amid a mimic din, GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 43 brought about by two or three hackmen | tired of such doings, and suddenly an and twice as many hotel runners, we impromptu vigilance committee appear- step from the cars into the streets of ed on the scene, and several of the most desperate characters were found swing- CHEYENNE CITY. ing from the end of a rope, from some This is the largest town between convenient elevation. Others taking Omaha and Ogden. Trains stop here the hint, which indicated they would 30 minutes, it being one of the regular take a rope unless they mended their stations where passengers are provided ways, quietly left the city. At the pres- with meals, for a consideration. The ent time, Cheyenne is an orderly and elevation is 6,041 feet. Distance from well governed town. The first Mayor Omaha, 516 miles; from Sacramento, of Cheyenne was H. M. Hook, an old 1,260 miles; from Denver City, 110 pioneer, elected August 10, 1867, who miles. Cheyenne City is situated, prop- was afterwards drowned in Green river, erly speaking, on a broad open plain, while prospecting for new silver mines. the Crow creek, a small stream, wind- Cheyenne is the great central distrib- ing around two sides of the town. The uting point and depot for the freight land rises slightly to the westward. and travel destined for Colorado and To the east it stretches away for miles, New Mexico, and the vast country to apparently level, though our table of the north. In the fall of '69, Cheyenne elevations shows to the contrary. The suffered severely by a large conflagra- soil is composed of a gravelly forma- tion which destroyed a considerable por- tion, with an average loam deposit. The tion of the business part of the town, sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed involving a loss of half a million dollars. with marine fossils, in large quantities. The inhabitants, with commendable The streets of the town are broad and zeal, are rebuilding, in many instances laid out at right angles with the railroad. with less destructible material than be- By the census of '69 Cheyenne contains fore. 3,000 inhabitants. The streets present a lively business appearance, and the NEWSPAPERS. traveler feels that he has arrived at a The Cheyenne Leader, daily and town of more importance and energy weekly ; Republican in politics, was than any he has seen along the road. established in September, 1867; owned On the fourth day of July, 1867, there and edited by N. A. Baker. was one house in Cheyenne, no more. The Wyoming Tribune is a live At one period there were 6,000 inhabi- weekly Republican journal, and we tants in the place and about the vicin. learn they are about to issue a daily. ity, but as the road extended westward, the floating, tide-serving portion fol- SCHOOLS, CHURCHES, &C. lowed the road, leaving the more per- Cheyenne has one public and other manent settlers, who have put up sub- private schools, and a good school build- stantial buildings of brick and stone, ing. wherein they are carrying on all bran. Churches are not very numerous as ches of trade which mark a thriving and as yet, though there are efforts being steadily growing city. made in the matter, looking toward the EARLY TIMES. erection of several. The St. Mark's Episcopal Church is a fine edifice, and At one time Cheyenne had her share the Catholics have erected another. of the “roughs" and gambling hells, The Methodists and Congregationalists dance houses, wild orgies ; murders by hold service in the school house, while night and day were rather the rule in their churches are being erected. stead of the exception. This lasted Cheyenne has several manufactories, until the business men and quiet citizens | the usual local manufactures, such as 44 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. boots and shoes, saddlery and harness | mering out a rude ring or cross, or making, being carried on to some ex some other ornament, with which to tent. The item of saddles is one of gladden the heart of the absent wife or great importance on the plains. The sweetheart. Rude and rough the con- herdsman and soldier must have a sad ception and workmanship of the trifle dle which will not hurt his horse's back, was, undoubtedly, but it was still as and in which he can sit for hours, and, dearly prized, aye, it was of far more at times, for days, without being “ mur. value to those who received it, than dered” by the torture. One of the or. though it possessed the exquisite finish dinary Eastern saddles, if used in the of the finest specimens of the art. And manner spoken of, would skin the as rare and costly gems were occasion- horse's back and drive the rider's shoul ally found, they, too, were incorporated ders down over his hips, forming a among the presents sent to absent dwarf of a “six footer" in short meter. friends, and ere long the diamond, em- The saddle of the plains, and of most erald and moss agate, from California, Spanish countries, is a different article Nevada, Idaho, Wyoming and Colorado, altogether from the Eastern “hog began to attract the attention of the sking.” When seated in his saddle, the best jewelry houses in the old States, rider fears neither fatigue nor injury to and even in the “old countries." his animal. They are made for use-to The manufacture of moss agate jew- save the animal's strength, as well as to elry has grown into an extensive trade, give ease and security of seat to the ri since it has been discovered that this der. For a long time these saddles have beautiful stone can be procured in large been noted and commended by horse quantities in Wyoming Territory. At men, until they have succeeded in ef Church Buttes and Millerville they are fectually displacing the old pad and flap found in greater quantities and of better bottom. Messrs. Gallatin & Gallup, of quality than those which are gathered Denver and Cheyenne, have long been elsewhere. Of the most beautiful and noted for the excellent quality of their variegated shades of coloring—of very saddles. Mr. Gallatin was the maufac hard, close and fine grain, they receive turer of the prize saddle, value $600, a brilliant polish under the hand of the presented to General Chivington, and skillful lapidary, and when mounted in also of those presented to several other the rich setting of California or Colo- noted officers. rado gold, they form as rich and tasteful But the most prominent manufacture, ornaments as can be produced from the and one which is conducted in the most shops of either the old or new world. scientific manner, is the manufacture of Ten or twelve of the most experienced workmen are employed here by one JEWELRY AND THE DRESSING OF PRE firm, and at any time the visitor who CIOUS GEMS. enters their store can behold the modus From the time the hardy miner first operandi by which the tiny gold wire is discovered the yellow metal in the wilds drawn from the bar, preparatory to of California, the art has been practiced forming those curious chains, or be can í witness the manufacture of the various in a rude way in all the mining locali- ties. The lucky miner, who found a articles of gold and silver ware, counter- “chispa" of more than ordinary beauty, parts to those exhibited in the sales- room. would send it to the “dear ones at home,” in its crude state, if he were devoid of mechanical ingenuity or TRADE, BANKS, HOTELS, &C. knowledge. On the other hand, if he There are several wholesale houses in possessed any knowledge of tools, and the town doing a large and steadily in- often when he did not, he would pass | creasing business with the towns to the his Sundays and spare hours in ham- ' westward, along the line, and in the GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 45 adjacent Territory. The streets present which is found near by, along with coal a brisk appearance, indicative of the | sufficient for smelting purposes. The life and animation attending a growing latter mines (of iron and coal) lie to the town. There are two banks in Chy. | southward, and are easy of access. In enne, both of which are doing a good this connection, we might mention that business. a company has been incorporated, the There are several hotels, the chief of object of which is the construction of a which is the companies' fine building, railroad from Cheyenne to Iron Moun. the interior arrangements of which are tain. That is all that has been done well spoken of by travelers. toward building the road, however, Cheyenne has her theatre and mu The erection of smelting works and the seum, swimming baths and beer gar manufacture of iron in Cheyenne dens. McDaniels theatre is a snug lit would add largely to the growth and tle place, very well supplied with scen prosperity of the Territory, and it is ery, sufficient for the rendering of small, evident that, ere long, this result will be light pieces, and will seat 250 or 300 obtained. people. There is also quite a mepagarie connected with the place. AGRICULTURE. COMPANY SHOPS. But little land is cultivated around this place. A few small gardens on the The company buildings are of stone, bottom lands of Crow creek are all the brought from Granite Canyon. They evidences of this branch of industry consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, which we observed. The soil is good, and machine and repair shop. The and the hardiest kinds of vegetables freight office and depot buildings are of and grains could be raised successfully wood, and fine structures. The freight with irrigation. Grazing is the main office was opened for business during feature of the country, and to that the the first part of November, '67, at which attention of the people is turned, to the time the road was completed to this exclusion of other business. station About 100 men are now em- ployed at the shops; A. J. Fairbanks, THE BIG HORN COUNTRY. master mechanic. Before proceeding to mention the MINES AND MINING INTERESTS NEAR forts in this locality, the reader may be interested in learning something in ref. CHEYENNE. erence to the Big Horn river country, Several mining companies have been which has attracted considerable at: incorporated in the city, for the purpose tention. of working various mines which are lo The Big Horn river rises about Jati. cated within 35 miles of the town. tude 43, in Wyoming Territory, and Among these companies is the “ Iron flows nearly due north, and empties into Mountain Manufacturing Company," the Yellowstone, in the Territory of which was organized for the purpose of Montana. It is the largest branch of working the company's mines in Iron the Yellowstone, which is now known Mountain, on the Chugwater, 32 miles only to the hunter, trapper and distant northwest of the city. From the first campaigner, but which will some day reports of this mine it was pronounced be known in the markets of the world almost impracticable to do any thing for the crops and minerals it will bring with it, or rather with the mountain, to them. About midway of its course i which, report says, is a mass of iron, the Big Horn breaks through the moun- nearly pure. The present company, tains forming one of the largest and however, propose to overcome this dift grandest canons in the world. Up to culty, by incorporating with the ore | this point it is known on the maps as from this place an inferior quality | the Wind river, but from the mountains GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. FORT FETTERMAN. FORT PHIL KEARNEY This Post was named for Brevet Lieu- Was established July, 1866, by four tenant-Colonel William J. Fetterman, companies of the 18th Infantry, under Captain 18th Infantry, killed at the command of Colonel H. B. Carrington, Fort Phil Kearney massacre, December 18th Infantry. This post was situated 21st, 1866. Established July 19th, 1867, 290 miles north of Cheyenne, in the very by four companies of the Fourth Infan heart of the hunting grounds of the try under command of Brevet Colonel northern Indians, and hence the trouble William McE. Dye, Major Fourth In- the troops had with the Indians in es- fantry. It is situated at the mouth of tablishing it. Here it was where the La Poele creek, on the south side of the great massacre was in 1866. It was also North Platte river, 135 miles from Chey | abandoned in July, 1868. enne, 90 miles south of Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly from Fort Lara- FORT C. F. SMITH mie. Latitude, 42 dg. 49 min. 08 sec.; Was established in 1866, by Brevet longitude, 105 dg. 27 min. 03 sec. The Lieutenant-Colonel N. C. Kinney, Cap- reservation of sixty square miles was tain 18th Infantry, and two companies declared, June 28th, 1879. The garrison of that regiment. Was at the foot of consists of companies A, E and H, of the Big Horn Mountain, 90 miles from .the Fourth Infantry, Breyt. Col. C. A. Fort Phil Kearney, and 380 from Chey- Chambers, Maj. 4th Infantry, post enne, on the Big Horn river, Was also commander; Dr. Purcell, U. S. A., post abandoned in July, 1868. surgeon; Robert Willson, of Denver, post trader. Cheyenne is the nearest LEAVING CHEYENNE FOR DENVER. railroad station. In connection with Cheyenne, we FORT CASPER have spoken of the Denver Pacific Railroad, which terminates at this point. Was situated on the North Platte River, Here travelers for the South will change at what was known as “Old Platte cars and take the Denver Pacific Rail- Bridge," on the Overland Road to Cali- road for Denver, Golden City, Central fornia and Oregon, 55 miles north of City, Santa Fe and all points in Colorado Fort Fettermann; was built during the and New Mexico. We will now pro- late war; rebuilt by the 18th Infantry ceed to give a short view of this road, in 1866, and abandoned in 1867, and its Colorado and its towns, and resources, garrison, munitions of war, etc., were for the benefit of those who are about transferred to Fort Fettermann. The to visit this land for the first time, - bridge across the Platte at this place commencing with the railroad. cost $65,000, a wooden structure, which was destroyed by the Indians shortly after the abandonment of the post. Morse is the father of "Lighting-Shovers.” On the plains Telegraph operators are called “Lightning Shovers." FORT RENO To the Traveler desiring a reliable newspaper, Was established during the war by to the Merchant and others, desiring an adverti- sing medium unsurpassed by any in Colorado, we General E. P. Connor, for the protec- recommend the “Colorado Tribune," published at tion of the Powder river country. It Denver City, by Woodbury & Walker. was situated on the Powder river, 225 We once knew an Ohio boy, a “bull whack- miles from Cheyenne, and 90 miles from er,” in Colorado, who boasted that he " did not chew, gmoke, drink or swear." Neither could he Fort Fettermann, and 65 miles from tell a story, sing a song, or whistle a tune, but Fort Phil Kearney. It was rebuilt in he allowed that he did enjoy "scratching." '66 by the 18th Infantry, and abandoned The reader would agree with him in the last proposition if they saw him grit his teeth in the in July, 1868. act. 48 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. WAMIIN JOHN EVANS, President Denver Pacific Railroad. OFFICERS: JOHN PIERCE, Vice President and Consulting Engineer. F. M. CASE, Chief Engineer. R. A. MCCORMICK, Secretary and Auditor. D. H. MOFFATT, Treasurer. Denver Pacific Railroad. der of the road is through the celebrated grazing country, extending southward from Cheyenne. The desire to open up In the fall of 1867, the Board of Trade. this rich country, to connect the city of OI Denver City, Colorado Territory, or: Denver with the trans-continental rail. ganized a company, the obiect of which road, by which to afford a way for cheap was to connect that city by rail and and fast freight, and rapid transit of telegraph lines with the Union Pacific passengers, induced the people of the Railroad at Cheyenne. The distance to Territory of Colorado to take hold of be overcome was 110 miles, through a the scheme, when proposed, with com- country possessing no serious obstacles, mendable zeal and alacrity. After the and many favorable inducements to the formation of the company, the surveys enterprise. For a great part of the way, and subsequent labor of grading the the country along and for some dis- | road was pushed rapidly forward, until tance on either side of the line, is the road bed was graded and ready for a rich farming country and the remain- | the rail from Denver to Cheyenne. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 49 The line of survey, commencing at 1 Another projected line, called the Denver, follows the valley of the South Denver, South Park & Rio Grande Platte, on the eastern side, and upon Railroad, is spoken of, and a company the upland to the crossing of the Platte, has been organized. Route proposed : 47 miles from Denver. Here it crosses Up the valley of the Platte river from the river near the extremity of the di Denver to the South Park; thence to vide, between the Platte and Cache a la the valley of the Rio Grande Del Norte, Poudre river, crossing the latter stream with a branch to Blue river and Middle a few miles above its mouth. From Park. For the first 20 miles, this line this crossing, it runs a general course of would run over open plains—the valley north 16 deg. west, for 38 miles; thence of the Platte. From thence, 30 miles to Cheyenne, 14 miles, most of the cury through some of the finest timbered ature of the line is embraced, and conse lands in Colorado, (provided they could quently the most difficult portion of the ever blast through Platte Canyon), pass- road. This is owing to the fact that the ing the forks of the Platte near good White Hills, a plateau, from 8 to 15 wagon roads. About 50 miles from miles wide, had to be surmounted. Denver the line enters South Park, at These hills are elevated from 300 to 600 the mouth Tarryall creek. At this feet above the surrounding plains, and point, it reaches one of the most fertile extend west to the Black Hills, termina valleys in the Territory. It is about 30 ting abruptly about 20 miles west of miles broad by 60 in length, and very Cheyenne. The road is now completed, productive. About 20 miles from this and cars running, to Evans, 60 miles place are the extensive salt works of from Cheyenne, at which place passen Colorado. gers take Hughes & Co.'s stages for The Denyer and Santa Fe Railroad Denver, 50 miles distant. Two stages Company was organized to construct a run daily each way. It is expected this road along the base of the mountains, road will be completed and in Denver to the southern line of the Territory, within a few months at fartherest. via Colorado City, Pueblo and Trinidad; It is proposed to extend the road, thence to the Moreno mines, New when completed from Denver to George Mexico. The line follows a succession town, by a branch road, to be called the of north and south valleys, and is said Denver & Georgetown Railroad. This to offer many advantages in the matter line would follow up Clear Creek val of construction, easy grades, etc. The ley, to the rich mining districts of Clear country bordering on the route is exten- Creek and Gilpin counties. sively cultivated, rich in iron and coal, and noted as a fine stock-growing coun- OTHER RAILROADS, REAL AND PROPOSED. try. The Moreno Mines of New Mexi- The Union Pacific Railway, Eastern co, the proposed terminus, are rich and Division, (Kansas Pacific Railway), is extensive; but the two last roads are on also rapidly approaching Denver from paper now, and though they are very the east, and hopes are entertained that desirable to the country, and would, a connection will be made during the doubtless, be good paying investments, present year. some time must and will elapse before we can expect to see them commenced The proposed route of this road com- or completed. mences at Kansas City, in the great DENVER. bend of the Missouri; thence it extends westward via Fort Lyon, on the Ar- We will now give a look at the town kansas river; thence through New Mex- | | where one real, and so many proposed ico and Arizona to San Diego, on the | railroads will, in time, add their quota Pacific ocean; thence along the coast to of wealth and prosperity. Denver City San Francisco. is the capital of Colorado Territory, shire town of Arrapaho county, and is 50 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. situated on the Platte river, at the junc and does a good business in smelting tion of Cherry Creek, 6000 feet above and assaying gold and silver bullion, the level of the sea, 13 miles from the turning it out in bars. By act of Con- eastern base of the mountains, which gress, it was changed into an assay protect it from the cold winds of the | office, some time during the year '67, on winter. The mountains extend north what grounds we know not. By refer- and south as far as the eye can trace ence to the books of the office for the their rugged height. These highest months of January and February of points, Long's Peak, to the north, and 1868, we find that business receipts, for Pikes Peak, to the south, are in full smelting and assaying, were largely on view, towering far above the tops of the increase; that an excess of about the surrounding mountains. An open, $53,000 over the corresponding months rolling country surrounds the city, being of the previous year showed conclusive- the outer border of that immense plain ly that the gold and silver product of which stretches away to the waters of the country was in a healthy and flour- the Missouri river, 600 miles to the east ishing condition. ward. Denver is about due south from During those months, the office paid Cheyenne; by railroad, 110 miles. out, in assayed gold and silver bars, Population, 5,000. about $108,000. The business for the NEWSPAPERS. six months ending December 31, 1869, That is what every one wants first, coin value, was bullion assayed and run so we give a list of those published into bars, gold and silver, $624,569.07. here. This exceeds the previous business for The Rocky Mountain News, daily and any full year, and 1870 is expected to weekly, by Byers and Daily, of Repub show still better figures. lican proclivities, is the oldest paper in the Territory, established in '59. Colo- BOARD OF TRADE. rado Tribune, daily, semi-weekly and This institution was organized in weekly, by Woodbury & Walker, Re Denver in 1867, representing the busi- publican. Rocky Mountain Herald, ness men of the city. It takes the lead daily and weekly, by O. J. Goldrick, in public enterprises, and has been very Democratic. These are a credit to any instrumental in promoting the growth community, and we think, by the way, and prosperity of the city. By refer- that Colorado has more and better news ence to their books, an idea of the mer- papers, according to her age and popu cantile trade of Denver may be obtained. ſation, than can be found in any other By this means, we learn that for the part of our commonwealth. year 1869 the sales of merchandise in SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. Denver amounted to over $7,000,000; grain sold, 10,000,000 pounds; value of These institutions, which mark a peo- manufactured goods, $500,000; lumber ple's progress in the more enlightened shipped out of the Territory, 2,000,000 and cultivated phases of civilization, are feet; total amount of lumber sold, 4,000,- well represented in Denver and the 000 feet; value of buildings erected, other cities of the Territory. In Den- ver city the schools are flourishing, in- $300,000; gold and silver deposited in cluding two seminaries; and, for a new U. S. branch mint, $555,452.83; value of mill and other machinery imported, country, the school houses are commo- $76,000 ; value of fruit trees planted, dious, and present an outside appear- $9,814; gold shipped East from Denver ance equal, and, in many cases, superior to those of older communi. by Wells, Fargo & Co., $2,400,000, be- sides that taken away by private con- ties. THE BRANCH MINT. veyance, which is estimated at about the same amount; number of cattle This institution is located in Denver, shipped, 14,000 head; hides shipped, GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 51 60,296 pounds; wool, 27,000 pounds; Lake City. Shade trees have been the value of city property, by assessor's planted along the streets, and tasty gar- books for that year, $4,000,000. From dens have sprung into existence under this data, the reader can form some idea the influence of the change wrought of the business of Denver, and the re within the city by the presence of water sources of the Territory. in quantities sufficient for irrigation. Another change is noted, by the old ben- STAGE LINES FROM DENVER. zine encompassers, who mysteriously Stage lines are run from Denver to shake their heads when speaking of im- Santa Fe, 450 miles. Hughes & Co.'s provements, and assert that the whisky stage to the terminus of the Denver has also been irrigated. Pacific R. R., Golden City, Blackhawk, Central City, Idaho and Georgetown, GOLDEN CITY. daily, (Sundays excepted). Stages also About 13 miles west of Denver we connect with the Smoky Hill road, at come to Golden City, situated on Clear the terminus, or Kansas Pacific R. R. creek, near where it debouches from the The traveler can reach any point of eastern base of the Rocky Mountains. importance in the Territory by stage The town contains about 1,000 inhab- from the capital. itants, a pottery and paper mill-the only ones in the Territory; also flour HOTELS, FLOUR MILLS, RACE TRACK, &C. and saw mills and other manufactories. There are three first-class hotels in The place is well supplied with schools, this city, the American, Tremont and churches, &c. The Colorado Transcript Pacific. is published here by George West, a There are two flour mills in the city pioneer of the early days of the Terri. which turn out an excellent article of tory. The Tremont House and Johnson flour for home use and export. House are the principal hotels. The Strong efforts are being made to es. town is reached by stage, from Denver, tablish a woolen mill, with every pros it being on the road to Black Hawk, pect of success. Certral City and Georgetown. The Ford Park Association have a Some quartz mines are found here, race track about two miles northeast of | and the whole section is underlaid with the city. It is handsomely enclosed, coal mines of good quality, which are and kept in good repair. On every successfully worked. afternoon the fast horses of Denver and Clear creek rises about 60 miles from their fast drivers can be seen enjoying the city, emptying its waters into the the smooth track at 2:40 speed. | Platte, four miles below Denver. The The State Agricultural Society has 40 stream affords great natural advantages acres of ground adjoining Denver, for manufactories, the water power where stalls, &c., have been erected for being unlimited and mill sites numerous. the accommodation of animals at the The Colorado Central R. R. is graded annual fairs. A half-mile race track is from Golden City nearly to Denver, and laid out, and the buildings and land en. ready for the iron. This is a portion of closed with a concrete wall, the whole the road chartered to be constructed costing about $10,000. through Berthoud Pass to Utah. W. WATERWORKS. A. H. Loveland, the father of Golden City, and an old pioneer, is working in Within a few years, the water of the the interests of tbis road, and will Platte river has been brought into the doubtless push it forward rapidly. city by a ditch, about 15 miles long, and Colorado has need of more such men, its waters are suffered to flow through energetic and ambitious, to enhance the the streets, reminding the tourist of Salt welfare of the country. 62 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. The whole country, from the moun. tains to Denver, is excellent farming land, irrigated by canals connecting with the creek. Orchards have been planted along the creek, and the result has established the fact that fruit can be raised successfully in this section. Here the proposed system of tram roads branch out. The original trunk line, as chartered, extended from Denver to Golden City, thence diverged, via Bergen Precinct, to Georgetown and the South Park. Another line diverged from Golden City to the northwest, extending to Black Hawk and Central City, in Gilpin county. The line first named enters the best timbered lands in Colo- rado. When these projectea improvements are completed, the lumber, coal, wood, etc., of these sections can be landed in Denver and Golden City at greatly re- duced prices from present rates. This is the only system of railroads applicable to a rough, mountainous country like this. Of narrow guage and light cars, they can wind in and out among the ravines, hills and gulches, where it would be unprofitable or im- possible to build a large iron road. The almost inexhaustible supplies of timber around Bergen, the copper ores abound- ing there, the lime-rock and stone quarries, the immense deposits of coal, which will, in time, be in demand-all of which could be transported in this manner cheaper by half than at present prices of freighting—must render the road, when completed, a most profitable investment to the owners, as well as a benefit to the people at large. Another great item in regard to this style of road should be considered. The people of Colorado can build these roads themselves, and retain the cost of their construction, and the profits arising from working them, in their own coun- try, among their own people. When these roads are working, im- mense bodies of refractory ores can be cheaply moved from the mines to the valley, on their way East for working, or they can be moved to furnaces in the valley, or the coal and wood neces sary in smelting can be moved to the mines, which cannot be done now, ow. ing to the expense of transportation by freight teams. Time and circumstances will yet make this system of roads & public necessity. It is worthy of serious consideration on the part of those interested in the internal improvements of their country, that the benefits accruing therefrom shall belong to themselves as far as possible, and not to be taken from the country to pay interest on or principal of foreign capital. The citizens of a State should always control a State's improvement, thereby preventing monopolies from ruling or oppressing them. BLACK HAWK AND CENTRAL CITY. These towns, lying about two miles from each other, on Gregory's Gulch, really constitute one town, although pos- sessing two distinct organizations and governments. They are connected by stage with Denver, and situated about 38 miles west from the same place, and con- tain, in the aggregate, from 7,000 to 8,000 inhabitants. The towns have good public buildings, schools, churches and hotels. The principal hotels are, the Mountain House, Black Hawk; St. Nich- « olas, and Connor House, Central City. The Central City Register, daily, Re- publican, by Collier & Hall, and the Daily Colorado Herald, Democratic, by T. J. Campbell, are published here." The principal business of the place consists in mining, this being claimed as the chief gold mining town in Colo- rado. It was the first mining camp established. W. N. Byers pitched his tent here in '58 or '59. Several quartz mills are located here, and an immense number of veins crop out in every di. rection. With successful milling these veins or lodes must yield an enormous revenue. As yet the country is hardly prospected, owing to the fact that mill facilities are not such as to encourage it. The great want of Colorado is a desul- phurizing process by which the metal FEELIN SEN WALE * WASH-A-KIE, Peace Chief of the Shoshone Indians, (From photograph by Savage & Otinger, Salt Lake City.) 54 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. can be obtained from the rock without mines to England for smelting. The this great waste, which has accompanied “Terrible Lode," the most noted of any the usual method of working hereto in the vicinity, has recently been sold fore. through the “ British and Colorado Min- ing Bureau," of London, to an English IDAHO CITY AND MINERAL SPRINGS. company, who are about to erect ex- About 35 miles from Denver, via Mt. tensive works for reducing the ores. Vernon, we come to Idaho City, situ- ated at the mouth of Virginia can- COLORADO CITY. yon. The town contains about 1,000 About 65 miles to the southward inhabitants. It is celebrated for its from Denver, is Colorado City, situated mineral springs, which are in the on the stage road from Denver to Santa heart of the city. A hotel and bath Fe, at the base of Pike's Peak, contain- house are connected with the springs, ing a population of, perhaps, 500, and which are becoming a noted summer re about 75 houses, some of logs, frame, sort. There are three others in the town, and few of sandstone. The country ad- which, with the former named, afford jacent is fine farming land, and many ample accommodation for the traveler. large droves of horses and cattle, as well The waters are highly recommeded for as herds of sheep, are kept in this sec- various diseases, especially chronic cases tion. When the accommodations are of long standing. sufficient to entice travelers to remain in the place, it will doubtless become a GEORGETOWN. favorite summer resort for travelers. This town is situated in Clear Creek county, in the center of the famous sil. THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. ver mines of Colorado, at the base of About 11 miles west is a singular the Snowy Range, about 8,000 feet above wild and beautiful place, which some the level of the sea. It is distant from poetic individual has given the title Denver about 50 miles to the westward. which heads this paragraph. Several The city contains about 5,000 inhabi rocks, or rather, two high ridges of tants, and is well supplied with schools, | rock, rise perpendicularly from the val- churches and hotels—the two principal ley to the height of two hundred feet or ones of the last named institutions be more, but a few yards apart, forming a ing the Barton and the Legget Houses. lofty inclosure, which embraces a beau- The Georgetown Miner, a lively news. tiful miniature valley, which seems to paper, is published here, by Barnard & nestle here away from the gaze of the Ward. Grey's Peak, just above the passer-by, as though, like some timid town, is 14,500 feet high. damsel, it feared that its beauty would The silver mines around this place are prove its destruction. Such has been simply wonderful, in their number, its fate, as we are told that some un. magnitude, and richness. But some other poetical heathen has plowed up its vir- than the ordinary mill process, or yet | gin bosom and planted it with beets. the furnace process now in use, must be. There is little poetry in the heart when discovered, before the principal lodes the stomach is empty. can be worked to advantage, on account of the refractory character of much of SULPHUR SPRINGS. the ore. Not but what the mines pay These healing springs, several in with the present process, but still not number, are situated about three miles more than half, and often not more than | from Colorado City, near the source of a third or fourth of the silver contained | the Fountain Qui la Bonille, a small in the rock is saved, which entails a se stream, which empties into the Arkan- vere loss on the miner. Large amounts sas river, near Pueblo. They are said of ore are being shipped from these e are being shipped from these / to possess great medicinal virtues. 56 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. cepted, can excel Colorado in the pro- duction of vegetables. Owing to the dryness of the black loam, irrigation is necessary to secure good crops, for which purpose ditches have been dug from the neighboring streams, which afford all the water required. These ditches also afford ample water power for mills of various kinds. THE MINING INTEREST OF COLORADO. Colorado is rich in the precious met- als, gold and silver being found in differ- ent parts of the Territory. “Pike's Peak' became famous in 1859-60, though it is said that gold was discovered in 49 in the Territory. The placer mines were never very extensive, at least, those which have been discovered were not lasting ones. It appears that the chief wealth of the mines lies in the gold and silver-bearing quartz lodes. In some localities the rock is very easily worked, but in others the ore is very refractory, requiring desulphurizing before much of the precious metal can be obtained by mill process. Several companies have tried the experiment of roasting the ores in furnaces of their own invention, the expense of which came from the miners' pockets. Most, if not all, these experi- ments have proved failures, the furnaces desulphurizing only a portion of the ore. COAL FIELDS AND IRON ORE. Along the base of the mountains, for many miles north and south of Denver, coal has been discovered at various points. Many persons estimate the ex. tent of the coal fields at 5,000 square miles. To the north of the city several companies have opened mines, which are worked enough to supply home con- sumption. The veins of these mines are from five to 19 feet thick. At one point eleven veins overlap each other, showing an aggregate depth of fifty feet solid coal. The Denver Pacific R. R. passes within 12 miles of these coal fields, which are now being worked, and within a mile and a half of a vein, six feet thick. The proposed Coal Creek Valley R. R. will connect these mines with the Den- ver Pacific R. R. when completed. Large quantities of iron ore are found, and, in connection with the coal deposits, promise a rich harvest for the manufac- turer. This coal is bituminous, and is harder, brighter, less dirty and odorous, burns with a purer flame, and leaves less residue than the coal from Illinois. It will eventually constitute one of the great sources of the wealth of this remark- able country. Iron ore is found in various localities, of good quality and in large quantities. The manufacture of iron cannot long remain in the back ground, when coal in such quantities and plenty of excellent iron ore can be obtained at the mere expense of mining. MOUNTAINS AND PEAKS OF COLORADO. The grandest mountains in North America are found in this Territory. They raise their snow-clad peaks far above their compeers, rising proudly and defiantly into the clear blue sky; their gray sides and white crests being visible through this clear atmosphere for many, many miles. In the pure air of this country objects like these are visible for a great distance, so great, indeed, that were it named. those who have never been in these re- gions would at once deny the statement; that's nothing, however, if they should deny it, for we have known some men who denied their country, and many who denied their-wives. But that is foreign to the subject, and has no con- nection with the mountains of Colorado. Long's Peak and Pike's Peak are over 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. Grey's Peaks, the highest point yet ex- plored in the Territory, are 14,300 and 14,500 feet high, They were named for the celebrated Cambridge botanist, There are other peaks less high, but none the less grand and majestic. The Alps, storied monuments of poetical, legendary fame, cannot compare with these mountains in scenes of sublime beauty and awful grandeur. Here, all of the vast scene is before you, the pure 60 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. clumps of stunted pine appear by the road side. On either hand, near by, high bold masses of granite 'rear their gray sides, piled one on the other in wild confusion. The scene is peculiarly im- pressive as we near Sherman, especially if it chance to be one of those days when the clouds float low down the horizon: then the traveler looks over the inter- vening space between him and the moun- tain range beyond, and sees naught but floating masses of vapor; no mountains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long dark line rising above them, o'ertopped by the glistening sides of Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we seem to move along a level plain, covered with grass, rocks and shrubs, until we reach SHERMAN, Eight thousand two hundred and forty- two feet above the level of the sea. It is named in honor of General Sherman the tallest general in the service. This sta- tion is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,227 miles from Sacramento. The maximum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 88.176 per mile. Seventy-five miles to the southwest is Long's Peak. To the south, 165 miles away, is Pike's Peak, both plainly visible. To the northwest, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Mountain, another noted landmark. Fine springs of water abound in almost every ravine. This is a noted point for game, black and cinnamon bears being found in the hills, and occasionally, “mountain lions.” COMPANY SHOPS, STATION, TOWN &C. At this point the company has a stone round house of five stalls, for repairs. The trains stop here, though, but a few minutes. It is merely a telegraph and freigbt station. About 25 houses of logs, and boards constitute the town. One store, two hotels and two saloons make up the business portion of the town. The freight taken on at this station for the East and West, is very extensive, consisting of sawed lumber, telegraph poles and wood obtained in the hills and ravines but a few miles distant. These hills are covered in sections with a dense growth of hard, spruce pine, which, as to quality, and adapta- bility for being dressed, resembles the hemlock of the Eastern States. The tim- ber is not of large growth, judging from the piles of sawed lumber which we ob- served. We found no board over 20 inches wide, and the lumber had been sawed as wide as the log would allow. This country contains an almost inex- haustible supply of timber, and for years to come, the country east of Sherman will draw its supplies from this point. Years must elapse ere the railroad com- pany can exhaust the wood growing within easy distance of the station. For many miles away the hills extend, every rayine and slope covered with a dense forest, through which roam the wild beasts, unawed by the near approach of civilization. At this elevated point, the tourist, if his “wind is good,” can spend a long time pleasantly in wandering amid some of the wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the continent. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms are far deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the torrents mightier in their power, and still they do not possess such power over the mind of man, as does the wild, deso- late looking landscape around Sherman, Although the plateau is covered with grass, and occasional shrubs and stunted trees greet the eye, the surrounding bleakness and desolation render this place one of awful grandeur. The hand of Him who rules the universe is no- where else more marked, and in no place which we have ever visited have we felt so utterly alone, so completely isolated from mankind, and left entirely with na- ture, as at Sherman, on the Black Hills of Wyoming At first the tourist experiences much difficulty in breathing, the extreme light- ness of the air trying his lungs to their utmost capacity, but when he becomes accustomed to the change, and begins to inhale long draughts of the pure moun- tain air, he feels like a new man, and GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 61 begins to wonder how it came that he river. The latter stream rises about 35 never tried the mountain atmosphere miles southwest from Sherman and before. empties into the south Platte. THE WINTERS AND THE WEATHER. FISH AND GAME. The presence of snow sheds and Numbers of little creeks head near by, fences by every cut induced us to inquire each and every one abounding in trout of a gentleman who has resided here of the finest quality. There is no spot for some time, regarding the storms, along the line of road which can be snows, weather, and the character of the compared to the locality around Sher- the winters here in general. He showed man for trout fishing. The tiniest us a table, where he had recorded rivulets swarm with them, and their the weather during the winter of '68–9. speckled sides glisten in every eddy. From this we learned that the deep They weigh from one-fourth to two est snow which fell at this point, at 1 pounds, and their flesh is as bard and one time, or that laid on the ground at | white as that of the mountain trout of any one time during the winter and | Vermont. spring, was but three inches, and that Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, fell in May. It is not the depth of sage hens and grouse abound in the hills snow that causes any inconvenience to and on the plateaus. The angler, hun- the working of the road, but it is the ter or tourist should never pass Sher- drifting of it into the cuts during the man without pausing long enough to fly heavy winds. For the purpose of pre a hook and try his rifle. Doubtless this venting this, the sheds, fences and walls point will become a favorite summer are erected along the road, the latter a resort for travelers, possessing, as it few rods away from the banks, of the does, eminent attractions for hunting cuts. The fences cause an eddy or and fishing. current of air, which piles the snow From Sherman to Rawlings the road along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a runs between the Black Hills and the great measure, from the track. Snow Rocky Mountain range, presenting sheds cover the deepest cuts along the varied and impressive scenery at various road, where obstructions from the points. snow is most likely to occur.. The Leaving Sherman, the road turns to cold rains and deepest snows come with the left, and three miles further on we an east wind; the worst storms from reach the southwest. The coldest day of the season,('68-9), the thermometer marked DALE CREEK BRIDGE, 8 dg. below zero. This occurred on the A plated framework structure, 650 feet 29th of January. On the warmest day long, and 126 feet high, spanning Dale recorded in January, the mercury stood creek from bluff to bluff. The bridge at 22 dg. above zero at noon, and, at five is the grandest feature of the road. o'clock, P. M., 20 dg. At Omaha, during Standing on trestles, interlaced with the summer, the range marked was 110 each other, and securely corded to- dg. Fahrenheit; at this point, 82 dg. gether, it presents a light, airy and CREEKS, STREAMS AND SPRINGS. graceful appearance when viewed from the creek. [See illustration. The From among the surrounding hills beautiful little stream looks like a silver several streams rise from the numerous thread below us, the sun glistening its springs, and wind their way among surface with a thousand flashes of sil- rocks and through gorges until they are very light. Anon, the dark walls of the lost in the waters of other streams. canyon shade it, as though they were Dale creek heads six miles to the north, envious or jealous of its beauty being and empties into the Cache-a-La Poudre rendered common property. A narrow 62 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. green Valley, just above the bridge, or rather a strip of green sward, on which stands one house, is the site of the for- mer Dale City, where, at one time, were over 600 inhabitants. Here, too, as well as around Sherman, are found countless flowers of every variety and hue. Dr. Latham, surgeon of the U. P. R. R., in. formed us that he had classified over 300 varieties of the flowers which grow in this section apd on the Laramie and Cheyenne plains. CACHE-A-LA POUDRE RIVER AND VALLEY. Dale creek is one of the tributaries of this stream, along the banks of which lies a lovely valley nestled in a mountain range to gladden the sight of the weary traveler, or to afford a home for the in- dustrious emigrant. Fifteen miles to the southwest of Sherman, is Virginia Dale station, which some “yellow cov- ered novelist” has immortalized in a “ blood and thunder story," wherein he entitled this station the Robber's Roost, though he disdains to inform us what they roosted on. But aside from this questionable honor, Virginia Dale sta- tion is the most widely known and cel- ebrated of any locality in these moun- tains. There are a few good buildings around the place, where excursionists, who visit here to enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare fishing and hunt- ing, are provided for. The place was originally a stage sta- tion on the old Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Slade, who was division superintendent for the old C. 0. C. Stage Co., from '60 to '63. It was sup- posed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes who infested the country, running off stock from emigrants, and appropriating the same. At any rate, he was a noted desperado, having, it is said, killed 13 men.“ The last of his ex- ploits was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Julesburg. Slade had a quar- rel with Jules in 1861, which ended in a shooting scrape, wherein Slade was forced to “take water.” In '63 some of the drivers on the line, friends and com- panions of Slade's, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranch, on the North Platte river, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as “the Devil's left bower.” He was a great friend of Slade's, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of “right bower" to that same warm natured individual. The place where this trag. edy occurred is 50 miles north of Chey- enne, and 25 miles below Fort Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cotton- wond Springs in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranch early in the morning. On alighting from the coach, he found Jules tied to a post in the corral, in such a position as to render him perfectly helpless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful manner, returning to the house for a “drink” between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, adding that he did not intend to kill him immediately—that he intended to torture him to death. Dur. ing this brutal scene, seven of Slade's friends stood by and witnessed the pro- ceedings. Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortu. nate Jules, he thrust the pistol into his mouth, and at the twenty-third shot blew his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from his victim and put them in his pocket. In the saloons of Denver City and other places he would take Jules' ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the act, would demand the drinks on his bloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after this exploit it became too hot for him in Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The people in that country had no love for GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. his kind of people nor use for them. tains a hotel, stores, post office and sey- They captured him, after his conduct eral fine buildings. had become insupportable, and hung From this point, on to Denver City, him, as he richly deserved, and Jack Colorado, along the banks of every Slade's career was ended. His wife ar stream, lie fine farming lands with deep, rived at the scene of execution just in rich soil, abundant water, genial cli- time to behold his dead body. She had | mate; in fact, possessing all the requi. ridden on horseback 30 miles for the sites for successful cultivation and pleas- avowed purpose of shooting Slade, to ant homes. The only wonder to us is save the disgrace of having him hung, that such countries should be so long and she arrived on the scene, with re. | unknown and so thinly settled. In por- volver in hand, only a few minutes too tions of this section coal fields abound- late to execute her scheme—the despera. these beautiful valleys lying on the edge do was dead, and he died “with his of the coal deposit of Colorado. boots on." Time, that power which works such wonders, will rectify all this, and ere SCENERY AROUND THE STATION AND long homes as lovely and attractive as VALLEY. those to be found in the valleys of the Virginia Dale is situated at the head old States, will spring up here, and the orchard, vineyard and waving grain of a deep gorge, on Dale creek, near the will invite the traveler to pause and Cache-a-la Poudre river. On the east side of the canyon, the wall of overhang. note the real wealth and matchless ing rock rises about 600 feet high, for a beauty of the country. There is room and good land enough among these mile along the stream, giving a wild mountains to provide homes for thou- and picturesque beauty, a sublimity and sands of the toiling, homeless sons of grandeur to the scene, rarely surpassed. the old States. Will they come and This point is called the “Lover's Leap," though we never learned as avail themselves of nature's bounty, and redeem this country from its wild state, any one ever leaped therefrom. If he or she did, we reckon that the jar, on and here build themselves homes where, at length, they will find life worth living alighting, in the valley, 600 feet below, must have knocked all love, romance, for, or will they toil among the stumps or sentiment out of them. In and and rocks of the East, to eke out a around this place are numerous dells, scanty subsistence?“ Quien sabe ?" We now return to the railroad once grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, more, and take up our record of the towering peaks and rugged recesses, enough to employ the tourist for some route. time in examining their beauties. HARNEY. At this point the valley of the Cache Side track, nine miles from Sherman. a-la-Poudre, a tributary of the South Elevation, 7,857 feet. From Sherman, Platte river may be said to begin, and no steam is needed to propel the train, from here on, down the river for twen. for the down grade is sufficient to carry ty-five or thirty miles, stretches one of us swiftly along, under the steadying the loveliest valleys in the Territory. guidance of the brakes, from Sherman It is thickly settled, and the settlers to Laramie, as the grade averages a little raise abundant crops. over 4712 feet to the mile. Rock work While passing down the valley, we and snow fences are found doubled in pass La Porte City, which contains many places, to protect the deep cuts. about 500 inhabitants. The Spotswood Between Harney and the next station, House is the principal hotel. It is situ. can be seen the old Denver and Salt ated in the midst of a fine country, well Lake stage road, the telegraph marking cultivated and near the river. It con. | the line for some distance along the 64 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. road to the left. We are now on the Alexander Steel. The garrison consists Laramie Plains, at the station of of companies C and I of the Fourth U. RED BUTTES, S. Infantry. The fort is beautifully sit- Elevation, 7,336-named from several uated on the east of the road, about ridges of red sandstone-lying between three miles from Laramie City, close us and the Black Hills, in full view of along-side of the track, and in full view from the cars for some miles, when ap- our sight. The sandstone bluffs or hills proaching or leaving the post. Latitude, have been washed and worn by the ele- ments, until in places they rear their 41 dg., 13 min., 4 sec. (observation); lon. gitude, 105 dg., 40 min. (approximate.) peaks from 500 to 1,000 feet above the Three miles farther on, we come to plain, in wild fantastic shapes and gro. tesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- LARAMIE CITY, tance, might be taken for castles, rise The end of Lodge Pole and commence, side by side with the wall of an immense ment of Laramie Division. Elevation- fort; churches rear their roofs, almost 7,123 feet. Distance from Omaha 573 shading the lowly cottage by their side; miles; from Sacramento, 1,203 miles. columns, monuments and pyramids are Directly to the east of this place can be mixed up with themselves and each seen the Cheyenne Pass wagon road other, as though some malignant power -- the old emigrant route—which crosses had carried off some mighty city of the the plain and river about half a mile olden time, and, wearying of his booty, below the city, running thence north- had thrown it down upon these plains west to the base of the mountains, without much regard to the order in parallel with the railroad. The Passen- which the buildings were placed. Op. ger trains stop here 30 minutes to allow posite to this station, about 50 miles time for eating, this being the first eat- away, the Laramie river rises on the ing station west of Cheyenne. eastern slope of the Medicine Bow Mountains, its source being composed THE TOWN OR CITY of almost innumerable springs. Its Is regularly laid out, at right angles with general course is northeast, for 200 the road. A stream of clear, cold water miles, when it empties into the North runs through three of the principal Platte river at Fort Laramie. Compe- streets; the buildings are small and gen- tent judges consider these plains and erally rough, after the manner of new adjacent valleys as good a stock range places, but a better class of substantial, as any in the world. On the bottonis, permanent structures of stone, is being the wild grass grows from two to three erected. The time since the road was feet high, and the bluffs are covered completed up to this point, June, '68, has with luxuriant growths of bunch grass. been too short to allow of much im- provement in the way of costly build- FORT SANDERS STATION, ings, when the material of which they By which Fort Sanders receives its sup are constructed has to be moved so many plies. Elevation, 7,163 feet. miles by the road. The spirit of im- provement is manifested, however, which FORT SANDERS. in time will render this a pleasant town. This post was established June 23d, With the water flowing through their 1866, by two companies of the Third streets, it would seem strange, a few Battalion, U. S. Infantry, under com years hence, to see them bare of shade mand of Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel H. trees, or private residences unornament- M. Mizner, Captain 18th Infantry. The ed with fruit trees and gardens. The present post-commander is Capt. E. M. spring, which affords ample water for Coates, 4th Infantry; Brevet Lieutenant | the town, is very large, and lies at the Colonel J. H. Frantz, Surgeon U. S. A., | foot of the Black Hills, a few miles is post-surgeon. Post-Trader, William away. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 67 manner. The clean rooms and good 1 wild ideas of enthusiasts, but simply food found here reflect credit on the man facts, substantiated by past and present agement. The best medical attendance experience. Agriculture is at present is given to the unfortunates who are confined to experiments, yet they have treated here, of whom, at times, there demonstrated that the hardy vegetables are very many. Although the hospital can be cultivated with success, on the is strictly speaking, intended only for bottom lands, without irrigation. It is the employes of the road, many others, generally conceded that wheat and bar- strangers, who have arrived here sick ley can be raised with profit to the pro- and destitute, have been kindly cared for, ducer here. We should consider the and medical attendance furnished them Laramie Plains to be unsafe for those free of charge. The building itself, the crops, their altitude rendering them sub- manner in which it is conducted, and the ject to severe late spring and early fall spirit which prompted its erection, are frosts. alike honorable to the liberal and humane policy of the company. “Corporations POINTS OF INTEREST ABOUT LARAMIE. have no souls," is a saying often, quoted, Crystal Lake is about 40 miles to the and, we admit, it is very generaīly be- westward of Laramie, Sheep Mountain lieved. But the hospital buildings -one of the peaks in the Rocky Moun- put up and kept in working order by tain range-rears its head for 12,000 feet the U. P. R. R. and the C. P. R. R. above the sea. Should the tourist desire would at least indicate that they posses- to visit the place, he will find the road sed soul enough to show them the policy, rough, and the ascent toilsome, owing if you choose to call it thus, of providing to the steepness of the road and rough for the health and comfort of the men country to be traversed. But the view, in their employ. when once on the summit, will well LARAMIE PLAINS. repay for the trouble. Near this moun- tain the head waters of the Laramie This belt of fine grazing land is about river have their sources in innumerable 20 miles wide, by 60 miles long, and is springs among the gloomy canyons and considered one of the best stock sections gorges. Before' we begin the ascent of in the Territory. The remarks about the mountain we enter one of the grand- the grazing lands, made elsewhere, will est forests in the country. For ten well apply to this section. Beef can be miles we toil on through the forest, raised and fattened on these plains at which is so dense that the sunlight lin- an expense not exceeding the cost of gers and grows pale as it lightens the such cattle in Texas, where, as every upturned faces of the mountain flowers one, knows, they raise themselves and with its cheering beams. Bear, moun- form the largest half of the population. tain lions and the mountain sheep range The peculiar features of these grasses here; their haunts, until lately, never are similar to those already described. having been invaded by the pale face. The plains are higher, and frost makes The silence is unbroken and almost op- its appearance earlier in the fall, but the pressive, save when the breaking of a grass is cured before its arrival by the dry twig under our feet gives us a summer sun, so tbat the cold wcather momentary relief, or the soughing of does not injure it. We need only to the winds among the tree tops breaks mention the well known fact, that, be the awful stillness, which seems to re- fore the white man drove them away, pel our further advance, as with some thousands of buffalo roamed over these fearful presentiment. Emerging from plains-furnishing the Indians with un this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find limited quantities of beef-to convince | ourselves on the highest point of the any one that the laudations of this as a | mountain, from which we can look over grazing country are not exaggerated or | piles of fleecy clouds floating below us - GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 69 About 40 miles beyond “Last Chance mouth of the Sweetwater river, which mines” are the “North Park" placer enters the North Platte from the west, mines. These mines are confined to and is really the west fork of the Platte. one mountain, the whole of which, as On the south the park or plain is bor. far as has been tested, being “pay dered by the main range of the Rocky gravel," About 50 miles southeast of Mountains, which here reach an eleva. this point, on the same range of moun- tion of from 10,000 to 17,000 feet above tains, is another mining point. The the sea, snow-capped always. For a nearest railroad station for the mines distance of 8,000 or 9,000 feet these last mentioned, is Sherman. slopes are covered with dense pine Coal has been found, low down in the forests. Here is the timber to feed and plains, but the nearest coal mines of the water power to run any number of any size, yet worked, are about 70 miles saw-mills for years to come. And the to the westward, along the railroad. constantly increasing demand for this At these mines an excellent variety of article will insure a permanent and lu. coal is obtained, easily mined and found crative trade. Here is one great source in large quantities. of wealth, one branch of industry, which will furnish employment to many. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE The prominent “ peaks” of this sec- COUNTRY. tion are “Sheep's Head," “ Elk Moun- We will now consider the general fea- tain,” and “Medicine Bow” mountains, tures of the country around the city, near the head waters of the Laramie that the traveler may judge for himself and North Platte rivers, and the of the capacities of this part of Wyo- “peaks" south of North Platte crossing. ming, for grazing, lumbering, mining, These points stand like guardian sen. and other sources of wealth and prog- tinels, at intervals along the crest of the perity. In general descriptions, the mountain ranges which enclose the tourist or traveler speaks of the Laramie Laramie park. plains as being or including all the In these mountain ranges, mines of country lying between the western base gold, silver, copper, iron and coal have of the Black Hills and the eastern base been discovered, and, in several cases, of the Snowy Range or Rocky Moun worked to advantage, while a vast re- tains. This country is really a grand | gion, doubtless equally well stored park, similar in formation to the great | with mineral deposits, has never been parks of Colorado, though of much less | prospected or explored. This field will, altitude. These “ parks” are immense eventually, prove another source of bodies of table lands, enclosed by the wealth and prosperity to Laramie and peaks and ridges of the surrounding those places near the diverging points mountains, sheltered by them from the for the various mining localities. These cold winds, watered by them from the general observations might apply in a never-failing streams which flow from great measure to Cheyenne, for the gorges and canyons among these peaks, mountains surrounding those plains are from which the snow is never absent. supposed to be rich in various kinds of The average elevation of the Laramie | mineral deposits. plains or park is about 6,500 feet, though On the west, from out the Elk Moun- where the city stands it is more. The tains, juts the Rattlesnake range, ex- Black Hill ranges of the Rocky Moun tending north to the North Platte, car. tains form the eastern and northern rying an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. boundary of the“ plains." This range Through the western range the North extends nearly due north to Laramie Platte canyons, and, on the east, the Peak, about 150 miles, thence west, ter Medicine Bow river cuts through the minating in the Seminole Mountains. eastern range, separating it from the Here a prominent peak rises at the foot hills of the northerly range of 70 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. the Black Hills. Through the plains Valley. “All aboard,” and off we go, run the Big and Little Laramie rivers with the assurance from the conductor which, as we before stated, rise in the to a timid individual that now we are mountains which border the western going to cross the Rocky Mountains. rim of the plains. These streams can. | Soon after leaving the city we cross the yon through the Black Hills north of Laramie river, and on through these Laramie Peak, and enter the North wide eading plains, until we reach Platte near Fort Laramie. HOWELL'S, Rock creek rises east of Medicine Bow, and after flowing north to about Eight miles west of Laramie and six latitude 42 dg., flows west and empties miles east of into Medicine Bow. This river rises in WYOMING STATION, Medicine Bow Mountains and flows north to about the same latitude as Rock On the Little Laramie river, six miles creek, thence west; and canyons through from Howell's. Elevation, 7,068 feet. Rattlesnake range or hills, entering the Large quantities of ties were received North Platte about 150 miles northwest at this point, which were cut at the of Fort Saunders, in latitude 42 dg. 3 head of the river and floated down the min. stream in high water. We cross Little By this showing, it will be observed Laramie, which rises in the mountains that the immense park, or Laramie in the west, and empties into Laramie plains, is well watered-sufficiently for river. The same description will apply grazing and irrigation. We have been to Whisky creek, a small stream which more explicit, have dwelt longer on we cross next, and soon we reach these points, than we should have done, COOPER'S LAKE STATION. did we not feel a desire to show to the It is 15 miles west of Wyoming ; ele- emigrant, or to those who are seeking vation, 7,044 feet. Near the station, to good locations for grazing lands, that the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of the Laramie plains possess these advan- water, about three miles long by half a tages in an eminent degree. We have mile wide, called Cooper's Lake. At wandered far away from the plains in this point, during the construction of our descriptions, but the grazing lands the road, an immense number of ties end not with the plains. The moun. were delivered, which were obtained tain sides, until the timber belt is reach- along the base of the mountains, about ed, the valleys, bluffs, and foot hills, all 18 miles to the westward, where abun present the same feature in point of lux- dance of timber is found. Several saw uriant crops, of grass. The valleys of mills have been erected among those the streams mentioned also contain hills, and the lumber trade is now as- thousands of acres of meadow land, suming an important position. Four where bay can be cut in abundance, and, if the season will permit, wheat, miles west of Cooper's Lake is barley and rye might be grown to ad. LOOKOUT, vantage, the soil being a black loam, Elevation, 7,169 feet. We are now and sufficiently moist to insure good entering the rolling prairie country, crops without irrigation. where, for 25 miles either way along With these general remarks, we will the road, vast herds of elk, deer and an- take up the thread of our discourse, and telope are found at different seasons of resume our review of the road. As we the year, the elk being mostly found in are about to leave Laramie, it may be the winter, when the snow drives them well to remark that we are leaving from the mountains. We also begin to schools, churches, and the other indica find occasional bunches of sage brush, tions of civilization, nor will we find which tell us that we have entered the them again until we enter the Salt Lake I country where this more useful than or. 74 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. Rawlings Station. They are of gray Suddenly we whirl out of the mouth of sandstone, worn, marked by the waters this chasm-out onto the level lands of or by the elements, far up their perpen- the North Platte river-cross a sub dicular sides. They are on the opposite stantial wooden bridge, and stop at side of the river, the banks on the west FORT FRED. STEELE, side being comparatively low. At this point, the river makes a bend, A fort and regular passenger station, 8 and for several miles we seem to be run- miles west of Walcotts-elevation, 6,840. ning down the river, parallel with it, This fort was established June 30th, though really drawing away from the 1868, by four companies of the 30th In: stream. fantry, under command of Brevet Col. To the south, is a long, high ridge of R. I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. Cap- gray granite, called the “Hog's Back." tain C. 0. Rawn, present post com- It is about four miles away from the mander. The garrison consists of com- road, and runs parallel with it for about panies B, D, F and I of the seventh In- 15 miles, terminating in the highlands fantry. J. K. Carson, U. S. A., post of Rawlings Springs. It is very narrow surgeon. About two miles west of Fort at the base, not exceeding half a mile in Steele formerly stood width, yet it rises from 500 to 2,000 feet BENTON CITY, high. The ridge is so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and in many Now entirely abandoned. The road was places it is all but impracticable for a completed to this point the last of July, man to attempt to walk along its summit 1868. At that time a large amount of Where this ridge reaches the river bank, freight for Fort Fred Steele, Montana, about two and a half miles above the Idaho, Utah, and the western country bridge, the walls are perpendicular, and was reshipped in wagons at this point, very high, from 1,500 to 2,000 feet. A and during August and September the corresponding bluff on the opposite side place presented a lively aspect, which shows that the river has cut a channel continued until the road was finished to through this ridge, which at one time Bryan, about the first of October. The barred the progress of the waters. town at that time was composed of can On the south side of the - ridge is a vas tents. About 3,000 people of all very pretty little valley, through which kinds made the population; a harder flows a small creek into the Platte. It set it would be impossible to find. furnishes fine grazing, and is in marked Roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the contrast to the surrounding country. same thing), fast women, and the usual Many years ago this green and peace- accompaniments of the railroad towns ful looking vale was the scene of a fear- flourished here in profusion. There ful battle between the Sioux and their were high old times in Benton then, but inveterate enemies, the Utes. The Sioux long before the road reached Bryan, the were encamped in the valley, and were people“ packed up their tents and stole surprised by the Utes, who stole on them noiselessly away," leaving only a few in the gray light of the morning, and at- old chimneys and post-holes to mark the tacked them furiously. Though taken spot of the once flourishing town. All | by surprise, the Sioux fought bravely, the water used by this people was hauled but were surrounded and overpowered. two miles from the Platte river at an When trying to escape, they essayed to, expense of one dollar per barrel, or ten, cross the Hog's Back, but every one who cents per bucket-full. raised his head above the crest was At Benton, the bluffs which mark the picked off instantly. A portion of the entrance to the canyon of the Platte band escaped in another direction, leay- near Fort Steele, are plainly visible and | ing their dead comrades on the field. will continue in sight until we near | The Sioux were so badly whipped, that GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 75 _ from that time forward they called the pected. Near here are sulphur springs, Utes “ Bad Medicine." seven in number, and very hot; while, along side of them rises a clear, spark- PLATTE RIVER ABOVE THE FORT. ling spring of ice cold water, and we We will make a brief paragraph re- opine that the time is not far distant garding the Platte above the fort, al- when these springs will be taken up though we have spoken of the river and improvements made, and one of before. From Fort Steele to the head the finest “ watering places” in the world! waters of the Platte is about 150 to 200 will be opened to the public-we will miles It rises in the mountains of the see. North Park, its waters being supplied by Fish of many kinds, and beavers, are many tributaries, which, at present, are abundant in the streams; the beayers mostly nameless. The course of the erecting dams often six feet high. The river, from its source to this point, is mountains and forests are full of game, nearly due north. The stream and its and in them and the open valleys can be tributaries abound in fish; the sur- found elk, deer, antelope, bear, moun- rounding country in game. tain sheep and lion, and, occasionally, About twenty-five miles above the the bison or mountain buffalo. fort, is the Platte ferry, on the old The forests are dense and large in ex- overland stage road. tent; the valleys fertile and of good Good bottom lands are found along size. All in all, it is a grand, wild coun- the stream at intervals. About 100 try, where the tourist would enjoy him- miles further up, the tributaries of the self, to his heart's content, in hunting, fishing and fighting the Indians. river begin to empty their waters into the main stream. Here the timber land commences, where was cut great num- GRENVILLE. bers of ties, which were floated down Eight miles west of Fort Steele we the river to the road. pass this station, making but a short Douglass creek and French creek run stop. Five miles further, we arrive at through heavy timbered valleys, and here the work of cutting ties com- RAWLINS SPRINGS. menced. This place is one of the regular eating These streams are icy cold and abound stations, the company having put up a in trout. Gold mines and gulch dig. fine hotel here for the accommodation gings were discovered here, but not of the travel on the road. Elevation, prospected to any great extent. On the 6,732 feet. Distance from Omaha, 709 west side of the river Monument and miles. The town contains about 400 Big creeks empty their waters nearly inhabitants. The company have a round opposite the creeks first named. house, of ten stalls, built of stone, also Big creek .rises in a beautiful lake, a machine shop, built of the same ma- about three miles long by half a mile terial. wide. A half mile above this lies The surrounding country is rough and another lake, but little smaller. “Float broken, covered with sage-brush and mineral ”-galena-was found here, but flecked with alkali. Near and above no prospecting attempted. The ground the town are the springs which give is disputed territory between the Sioux their name to the place. They consist and Utes, rendering it very unsafe for of the seepage of a narrow, wet ravine, small parties. which extends about a mile above the Eight miles from Douglass creek coal town. The bed of the ravine as far as is found in abundance, and farther on, the water extends, is white with alkali, fine-looking quartz veins crop out on the where the pools of stagnant water do hill side; but what they contain is un- | not cover it. At the foot of this wet known, as they have never been pros- | strip of land a trench has been cut, from 76 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. which flows a stream of water, better to the taste than that found in the “springs.” Leaving Rawlins, we follow the wet ravine, through a natural pass about 300 feet wide, which leads between two high bluffs, at the head of the wet ground al- luded to. It appears that at this point the hills crossed the rayine, which has since cut its way through them. Per- haps a large lake was imprisoned above, which burst these walls and left a nat- ural route for the railroad. The bluffs are about 100 feet high on each side of the road, almost perpendicular, of hard, gray granite, and from this place was taken the stone used in constructing the round house and machine shop at the springs. Beyond the pass we follow up this dry channel through a sage-brush and alkali country to SEPARATION STATION, An unimportant place, 14 miles west of Rawlins; elevation, 6,900 feet. We are rapidly rising and in a few miles further ride we shall be on the summit of the Rocky Mountains. CRESTON. Through sage-brush and alkali beds for 14 miles before we arrive at this station. We are now near the summit of the great “ backbone” of the continent, the Rocky Mountains. According to General Dodge, we are now just 7,030 feet above the level of the sea. Two and a half miles west of this point, a flag, planted by the wife of Captain Clayton, near the track, marks the summit 7,100 feet above the level of the sea. This point is about 185 miles from Sherman, 737 from Omaha, and from Sacramento, 1,039. On this wild spot, surrounded by few evidences of vegetation, and those of the most primitive form, this little flag-staff marks the center of the grandest range of mountains on the continent. Amid what seems to have been the wreck of mountains, we stand and gaze away in the vast distance, at the receding lines of hill, valley and mountain peaks, which we have passed in our journey We feel the cool mountain breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma of life and vegetation with its cooling current. We feel and know that the same sky which hangs so warm and blue over the smiling valleys, looks down upon us now; but how changed the aspect; thin, gray and cold it appears, and so clear that we almost expect to see the stars looking down through the glistening sunbeams. We do not seem to be on the mountain height, for the expanse seems but a once level plain, now arched and broken into ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate knobs. Here, if a spring should arise from this sage-brush knoll, its waters would di- vide, and the different portions eventu. ally mingle with the two oceans which wash the opposite sides of the continent. We enter the cars and pass on, the track seeming to be lost but a short distance in our front. The view from the rear of the car is the same. The track seems to be warped up and doubled out of sight. The curvature of this back-bone gives the track a similar appearance to that witnessed at Sherman. Although much higher at Sherman, still this is the continental divide, but the low, broad pass brings us 1,212 feet below that place. To the north, the Seminole Mountains rear their rugged heights, and farther on, and more to the westward, can be seen the long lines and gray peaks of the Sweetwater range. Still farther to the west and north, the Wind River Moun tains close the scene in the dim distance, their summits robed in snow. Away to the south can be seen the hills which form the southern boundary of the pass, near by where the Bridger Pass station is situated on the old overland stage road. Between these mountain crests, about 150 miles apart, the pass extends-an undulating, broken, bent, and double plain, if such a thing can be supposed to have been created. With a last look at this rugged, barren, desolate region, we speed away over the crest, and down the grade to GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 77 WASH-A-KIE STATION, valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near A station 15 miles to the westward the stream on either side. The stream is Elevation, 6,697 feet. small and so strongly impregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or RED DESERT, beast. The banks and bottoms are very Nine miles from Wash-a-Kie. Eleva. treacherous in places, miring any cattle tion, 6,710 feet. The country around which attempt to reach its fetid waters. here is called the red desert from the This section was always a terror to tray. color of the barren soil. It is a huge elers, emigrants and freighters for noth- basin, its waters having no outlet. Sev ing in the line of vegetation grows theron eral alkali lakes are found in it, but excepting grease wood and sage-brush. nothing lives on its surface. It is said The freighter, especially, who had safely that a jack rabbit once tried to cross it, navigated this section, would “ring but died of starvation and thirst before his popper” and swear that he was he accomplished his jouruey. The soil a “tough cuss on wheels, from Bitter is bad between Table Rock and Creston, creek.” the extreme points of the desert, 38 From the source to the mouth of this miles apart. It is composed of the de stream, every indication points to the composition of shale and calcareous fact that deposits of oil underlie the sur- clays, and is deep red, showing the pres- face. Coal veins, valuable ones, have ence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. been found, and an oil bearing shale un- The southern margin of the basin is derlies a large portion of the valley. The mainly sand, which is lifted up by every old overland stage and emigrant road passing breeze, to fall in drifts and shift- follows this valley from its source to ing mounds Green river. From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though they would like to TABLE ROCK. meet their jagged friends on the oppo- Fourteen miles westward, we reach site bluffs, and around the rough points this station, on the outer edge of the the cars roll merrily on until we arrive desert, which has an elevation of | at . 6,890 feet. Off to the left can be seen BLACK BUTTES, a long line of bluffs, rising from 50 to Nine miles west of Bitter creek station. 500 feet above the surrounding country. Elevation, 6,600 feet. Near this station They are of red sandstone, worn, cut is a coal mine, or vein, about four feet and fluted by the action of the elements. thick, which produces an excellent One of these bluffs, which gives its name quality of coal. "The mine has a work- to the station, is level on the top, which ing capacity of 100 tons per day. Four rises about 500 feet above the road, miles west we arrive at and extends for several miles. Heavy cuts and fills are found here, showing HALLVILLE, that the road is passing through the Where exists coal in great abundance, rim of the desert. After passing through of very superior burning quality, free of this rim, we go on, through a rough and sulphur and smoke. There are several broken country for ten miles, when we veins in the vicinity, from seven to ten arrive at feet thick. This coal is highly spoken BITTER CREEK STATION. of, and the mine can produce 300 tons At this place the company have a per day when necessary. The mine is ten-stall round-house, and a machine very easily worked, and has an excellent shop. Elevation, 6,685 feet. roof. Seven miles to the west, after As we leave this station, we begin the passing through the same desolate descent of the celebrated Bitter creek, region, we arrive at the valley of which we shall follow to POINT OF ROCKS. Green river, about 60 miles away. The ! Eight hundred and five miles west 80 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. though most of them have only the sterile shores. Science and commerce bare walls, the roofs now doing duty at demanded a solution of the question some other point. Geographical indi- “Can the upper Colorado be naviga cations point to the fact, that this sta. ted ?” and Major Powell undertook to tion may become an important one solve the problem. After he started on in time, however desolate it may now be. his journey, long before any authentic GREEN RIVER. accounts could be had, the community Tbis stream rises in the northwest of were thrown into a terrible excitement the Wind River Mountains, at the base by the report that the expedition was of Fremont's Peak. The source of the lost—that all were drowned but one. river is found in innumerable little Soon after this, the public were relieved streams, about 200 mile from the rail. by the published leiters of Major Pow. road crossing. About 150 miles below ell, announcing his safety. The party the station the river empties into the encountered hardships like all explor- ing expeditions, discovered beautiful Colorado river. The name, “Green river,” implies the color of the water, scenery, and in their report have thrown but one would hardly expect to behold some light on the mysteries of this be- a large, rapid river, whose waters pos- fore untraveled country, but as a de. sess so deep a hue. The river, for some tailed decription has been given the pub distance up the stream, commencing lic in the lectures of Major Powell and about fifty miles above the station, runs in many of the journals of the day, we through a soil composed of decomposed will not wander farther away, but return with the reader to the Railroad. rock, slate, etc., which is very green, After crossing Green River on a fine and easily washed and worn away, which accounts for the color of the wa. bridge, the cars pass along through ter. At all seasons of the year heavy cuts, almost over the river in the water is very good, the best, places, affording a fine view of the frowning cliffs on the east side of the by far, of any found in this part of the river. Twenty miles to the northwest, country. The tributaries abound in trout of fine flavor, and the main river a large barren butte, pilot knob, stands in isolated loneliness. Soon we leave is well stocked with the finny tribe. Game of all kinds abound along the the river and pass along a dreary bar. ren waste, for 13 miles, we arrive at river and in the adjacent mountains. The lower stream presents a very BRYAN marked feature, aside from the high bluffs of worn sandstone and sedimenta. A regular eating station. The coun- ry deposits. These features are strongly try around is barren, composed of red marked, above the bridge, for several sand, and uninviting in the extreme. miles; but of that we will speak more We are again increasing our elevation, in detail as we ascend the river. and will soon be above this cheerless From this station, the celebrated ex- | range, into a higher and more hospitable ploring expedition of Maior Powell region. Elevation at this station. 6.340 started on the 24th of May, 1869. Ma feet. Round-house of 12 stalls, and ma- jor Powell left Chicago, Friday, May chine shops. This station, during its 7th, for Green River City, accompanied early days, was quite lively, and troubled by about a dozen well armed, intrepid with the usual number of roughs, gamb men, mostly Western hunters. They lers and desperadoes. When the Vigi. had four well built boats, with which lance Committee was in session, they to explore the mysterious and terrible waited on one of the latter class, a noted canyons of Green river and the Colora- desperodo, and gave him 15 minutes to do. These gorges were comparatively leave town. He mounted his mule and unknown, the abrupt mountain walls said: “Gentlemen, if this d- m mule having turned the travel far from their don't buck, I don't want but five." We GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 83 the road. They are found on top of the in lofty domes and pinnacles, which, at bluffs, where the wind has blown the a distance, resemble the fluted columns dirt and sand away, leaving them ex. || of some cathedral of the olden time, posed on the surface. standing in the midst of desolation, its We have a few words to say to the lofty, turreted roof and towering spires tourist who may stop here to look for rising far above the surrounding coun. these gems. When you go out to hunt try; but on nearer approach, the scene for them, don't be in a hurry-take your changes, and we find a huge mass of time and keep cool. Take a hammer sandstone, worn and washed by the ele- along also. Crack the rocks and ledges; ments, until it has assumed the outline look at the pebbles beneath your feet; of a church, but of the grandest dimen- and when you find one of the agates, if sions, it being visible for 14 miles. it looks dull and rusty, don't throw it We leave the station, the buttes and away in hopes of finding a prettier one, moss agates, and after a ride of 17 miles, for often the dull-looking stone, when we arrive at rightly cut and dressed, is very beauti- CARTER'S STATION. ful and valuable. But one word further regarding the We find this a military, telegraph, search for moss agates. We will direct freight and passenger station. Eleva- you to a far better place. Go to the next tion, 6,550 feet. The station is named station west, Carter's, and from thence go for Judge Carter, of Fort Bridger. This to Fort Bridger, 10 miles distant. When gentleman has a large warehouse at this you get there, don't put on any city airs, point, where freight is received for Vir- but keep the man on the outside, and ginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, the fop for the city, and act like a Montana Territory. This route is said reasonable being. Go to our friend to be 80 miles shorter than any other Judge Carter's commodious hotel, and road leading from the U. P. R. R. to then form the acquaintance of some these cities. genial fellow, of whom there are plenty to be found at the fort. Then obtain a FORT BRIDGER. good horse, or some other mode of con. This post was established in 1858 by veyance, and with your companion start General A. S. Johnson, and called after out in quest of the object of your search. James Bridger, the renowned hunter, You will go from five to ten miles east trapper and guide. The present post on the old overland stage road," commander is Brevet Maj. D. S. Gordon, toward Millersville, and there you will Capt. 2d Cavalry. The garrison con- find the agate in greater quantity and sists of companies E, H and K of the of better quality than at any other place 7th Infantry, and Company D ad Cav. in the country, as far as heard from. alry. Besides the agates, you will find, near Assistant-Surgeon, W. E. Waters, U. Fort Bridger, the finest fishing and 8. A., is the present post surgeon. The hunting to be found anywhere this side Rev. Edward H. Leavitt is the present of the Rocky Mountains. We know post chaplain. W. W. H. Carter, post these things to be so from actual ex- trader. perience. The fort is 159 miles from Salt Lake But to return to Church Buttes station, city ; 69 miles from Green River, and which derives its name from the pecu. 130 miles from the Sweetwater gold liar formation of the sandstone bluffs, mines. Latitude, 41 dg., 18 min, and 12 which extend for many miles on the left | hand side of the road, about ten miles sec. ; longitude, 110 dg., 32 min. and 38 sec. distant. At the old Church Buttes sta- The valley in which the post is situa- tion, on the “old overland stage road,” | ted affords fine grazing, and is nearly all about nine miles to the south, they rise 1 susceptible of irrigation. At Carter's 84 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. _ _ Station, freight and passengers for the fort are left, thence to the fort by gov. ernment conveyance, there being no other. As this post is one of great historic in. terest, we publish the following MEMORIES OF BRIDGER, Which were handed to us by one of our friends, who was with the first party of soldiers who arrived at the place where the fort now stands : “Early in the winter of 1857, on the 23d of November, the winds were blow- ing cold and bleak over the snow-covered ridges surrounding Bridger--a town with a significant name, but nothing but a name except an old stone building with the appelation of fort attached to it, built by the Mormons, and surrounded by a small redoubt and chevaux de frise pierced for three six-pound mountain howitzers. “The U. S. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh and tenth infantry, second dragoons and four companies of the fourth artillery, the whole under com- mand of Brigadier-General Albert Sid- ney Johnson, were on their way to Salt Lake City, the fifth, under Major Rug- gles, the seventh, under Colonel Morri- son, the second dragoons under Colonel Howe, the fourth artillery, under Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d of November, and established a camp, while a part of the supply train accom- panying the expedition, numbering at least 160 wagons, was behind, delayed by the heavy snows, entirely separated from the command, and forced to en- camp about one mile from each other on the Big and Little Sandy rivers. [NOTE. - These streams are tributaries of Green river on the east, rising near South Pass, about 160 miles north of Bridger.] “While encamped there, a party of Mormons under the command of Orson Pratt, the generalissimo of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by one Fowler Wells, another formidable leader of the Mormon church militant, dashed in and surrounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, completely surprising the entire party, not one escaping to give the alarm.º'After taking the arms and equipments from the men, they gave them a very limited amount of provi- sions to last them through to Leaven- worth, allowing them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty men, and then started them off in the wilderness to reach that place about 1,000 miles distant, with no weapons other than their pocket knives with which to pro- tect themselves against the Indians or to procure game when their limited sup- ply of provisions should become exhaust- ed. After accomplishing this soldierly, humane and Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, burning up everything which they could not carry away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, while those left to starve turned their faces eastward. There were 230 souls in that despoiled party, only eight of whom ever reached the border settle- ments; the knife of the savage, and starvation, finishing the cruel work begun by the merciful Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth in June, '58, bringing the sad intelligence of the fate of their comrades. “The loss of these trains necessarily cut short the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on short rations, and to add to their horror, the beef cattle ac- companying the expedition had nearly all frozen to death, leaving but a few head in camp. “At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head in one night; the horses and mules dying in about an equal ratio. Before reaching Bridger, the dragoons were compelled to bury their saddles in the snow, the horses being unable to carry them. The animals were com- pelled to subsist on sage-brush for two- thirds of the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, they were compelled to remove snow several feet deep. The men had no other fuel ; no water only as they melted snow, for three weeks befor reaching Bridger. “When the news arrived at the camp that the trains were destroyed, the troops GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 85 _ immediately began to forage for any. thing that was palatable, well knowing that no supplies could reach them before late in the spring. The snow was then, on an average, from six to seven feet deep, and the game had mostly left the hills. The rations were immediately reduced one-half, but even this pittance failed on the 28th day of February, when one-quarter ration per man was issued, being the last of all their stores Two 100 pounds, sacks of flour were secured by Major E. R. S. Canby, who gave for them $300 in gold. They were placed in his tent, which stood where the old flag staff now stands, and he supposed his treasure secure. But that night a party of men belonging to Com- pany I, 10th Infantry, commanded by Lieutenant Marshall, made a coup – etat on the tent, pulling out the pins and throwing the tent over the astonished Major, but securing the flour, with which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- ceeded in hiding it about a mile from camp, in the sage brush. All was con. fusion. The long roll was beaten, the troops turned out and answered to their nameş, no one being absent. So the matter ended for the time. The next day, at guard mount, the Major com. menced a personal search among the tents for his flour. He found what? In one tent, two men were cooking a piece of mule meat; in another, he found five men cutting up the frozen skin of an ox, preparatory to making soup of it, the only other ingredient to the savory mess being a little flour. Overcome by the sight of so much wretchedness, the Major sat down and cried at his inability to assist them. He asked the men if they could obtain nothing better to eat, and was answered in the negative. "The severity of the suffering endured by the men nearly demoralized them, still they went out foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the snow with great difficulty. Some would meet with success in their hunts at times ; others would not. The mules and horses were either killed and eaten by the men, or died of cold and hunger, which left them without the means of supplying their camp with wood, only as they hauled it themselves. But the men did not murmur. Twenty or thirty would take a wagon and haul it five or six miles to the timber, and after loading it with wood, haul it to camp. Each regiment hauled its own wood, thus se- curing a daily supply. Some days a stray creature would be slain by the hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp once more. "Early in the spring of '58 most of the men departed for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, D and K of the 10th Infantry, and company F, 7th In: fantry. Twenty-seven men from each company were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On ar- riving in the pinery, they found an old saw mill and race, which had been used by the Mormons, and everything convenient but the necessary machine- ry. Luckily the quarter master's de. partment had the required machinery, and soon they had a saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of Septem- ber, 1858, the quarters were up and ready for use. They were large enough for five companies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler's store, guard house, etc. Before these quarters were finish- ed, the quarter master's department and ordnance department, together with the commissary stores, were all stored within the little stone house, there be- ing no other safe shelter. “The Fourth of July, '58, was duly observed and honored. The flag staff was raised in the center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by Major Can- by and prayers said by Major Gatlin, and to the credit of the soldiers present be it said, that one Fourth of July was cel- ebrated by sober men, not one sol- dier being intoxicated, though there was liquor in the camp. “On the 23d of September, 1858, a large train of supplies arrrived, causing great joy among the troops. Two days | later three long trains of supplies filed 86 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. * through the place on their way to Salt PIEDMONT STATION. Lake City. Unimportant, with an altitude of “The fort was named for “Jim Bridg- 7,123 feet. The country is rough and er,' an old hunter, who lived here more broken. To the south, the mountains than 30 years. He is still alive, living are well timbered with pine and cedar. in St. Louis, Missouri. He was at A great many ties were obtained in this Bridger in May, '69, for a visit, remain. section while the road was being con- ing one week. Luther Mann, (citizen,) structed. Indian Agent for the Shoshoncs and ASPEN, Bannocks, has resided here for three years. The chief of the Shoshones, Ninc miles to the westward of Pied- Wasbakie, whose picture will be found mont. This is the second highest point on the U. P. R. R., the elevation being on another page, is a very kind, honor- 7,540 feet—is 839 miles from Sacramen- able Indian, and has been the steadfast friend of the whites for many years. to, and 937 from Omaha. It derives its name from the high mountain to the Black's Fork, which runs through the north, called “ Quaking Asp.” The center of the parade ground, affords ex- summit of this mountain is covered with cellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a snow during the most of the year. The stream five miles southeast, affords as “quaking asp,” or aspen, a species of good trout as there is in the country.” poplar, grows in profusion in the gulches With the closing of our correspon- and on the side of the mountain. The dent's narrative, we resume our route, “old overland stage road "winds around taking up the connection at the northern base, while the railroad BRIDGER STATION, girds its southern borders, nearly encir- cling it between the old and new; Named for James Bridger, the old hunt- decay and death marking the one, life, er, trapper and guide, who first came to energy and growing strength, the other. the country in the employ of the Amer- Leaving Aspen, we soon arrive at the ican Fur Company over 40 years ago. site of the He undoubtedly knows more of this country than any white man now living. BEAR RIVER CITY, Large quantities of wood, cedar and Of early railroad days, but now entirely pine, are obtained here. The bluffs are deserted. It is situated in a little valley now nearer on either hand. We cross at the mouth of a ravine, where the old and recross the “muddy” very often, overland stage road comes down from the little stream being more crooked the north of Quaking Asp Mountain. than the streets in Boston. Within a At one time this place was quite popu- few miles of Piedmont, we observe the lous, and was supposed likely to become old overland road, where it comes down a permanent town. At this point, the the mountains, crossing the railroad to roughs and gamblers who had been driv- the west, at Burn's Ranche, the route en from point to point westward, made marked by the line of telegraph poles. a stand, congregating in large numbers. Three miles west, on the stage road, is They swore that they would be driven Soda Springs, near by a dirty looking no farther; that here they would stay, house, which is the headquarters of one and fight it out to the bitter end. The who is said to be “the dirtiest man in town was about two miles to the east- Utah.” ward of the river, and when the roughs The altitude of Bridger Station is | felt that trouble was coming on them, 6,780 feet. For the next two stations they withdrew to the hills and organ- we shall ascend, until we eclipse the al. ized for a raid on the town. Mean- titude of Creston. Fifteen miles west | while some of the roughs remained in of Bridger, is the town, and among them were three SUNDAN WALLIN TULUAN Fabel Interior View of Snow Sheds on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, O. P. R. R. See page 163. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 89 _ _ the latter a better road. Should we menced. A regular line of stages run leave Ogden, we proceed up Ogden can from here, carrying passengers and mails yon for 12 miles, across Ogden valley, to Helena, Montana. We follow up a and over a rough mountain road, a dís- beautiful little valley, watered by Yel- tance of over 87 miles further into Bear low and Porter's creeks for 12 miles, to Lake Valley. the head of Echo canyon. Near this If by way of Corinne, we proceed place are some very valuable coal mines, to Brigham city, four miles distant, which supply a large amount of coal to and then up the Box Elder, and down the railroad company. The mines are the Wellsville canyons, 18 miles further, said to be very extensive, and easily thence across Cache valley, with its 600 worked. The coal is of excellent quality square miles of beautiful lands, to Logan, and the mines are of incalculable benefit the county-seat, 10 miles further. From to the company. this point the old road runs north 20 Two miles farther west we arrive at miles, through Richmond, Smithfield, ALMA, and Hyde Park to Franklin, and then turns to the east through the moun A station of but little importance, nine tains, 40 miles more. A new road is | miles from being constructed up Logan canyon WAHSATCH STATION. which will materially shorten the dis- tance. Elevation, 6,879 feet. From Omaha, At Port Neuf Gap, the river turns, and 956 miles; from Sacramento, 810 miles. thence its course is nearly due south, This is a regular eating station, the until it empties into Great Salt Lake, “Trout House" being the only place for near the town of Corinne. The course travelers to enjoy a square meal! The of the river can best be understood when company have a machine shop and we say that it resembles the letter U in round house, built of wood. The town shape. From where it rises it runs due contains about 30 small houses, with a north to latitude 42 dg. 30 min., then population of about 300. Several side- suddenly turning, it runs south to lati tracks and switches attest the business tude 41 dg. 43 min., before it finds the done here at one time. As before inti. lake. Within this bend lies the Wahsatch mated, it is expected the town will soon Mountains, a spur of the Uintah, a rug be moved to Evanston, ged, rough, bold but narrow range. The surrounding country is rather We now return to the road, which we broken, though not rough, when com- left near the old Bear River City. Pass pared with other portions over which ing down the stream, through the valley we have passed. Grass in abundance spoken of, we cross Yellow creek, one covers the hills, and it is claimed by of the tributaries of Bear river, and ar those who reside there, that the small rive at grains can be grown successfully. EVANSTON. [NOTE.—We agree with them on this Here, for a time, was the distributing point, merely remarking that the smaller point of the Salt Lake freight and the grain they attempt to raise, Travel. It is 18 miles from Aspen, and the more it will resemble the crop pro. has an elevation of 6,835 feet. We are duced.] informed that Evanston is to be made Game is found in the hills—deer, elk an eating station instead of Wahsatch, and antelope. In the Uintah and Wah- and that all the companies' shops are to satch ranges, brown, black and cinna- be removed from the latter place to mon bear are found. We might add Evanston. Sulphur springs are close that all the ranges spoken of aro well by, and an oil well has been bored 200 timbered with spruce and pine. feet with good prospects of success, and On leaving Wahsatch, we arrive at the boring for other wells is soon to be com- | divide and head of Echo canyon, one 90 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. half mile distant. Here we find the yon, which are worn and torn away longest tunnel on the road, 770 feet in until, in the distance, they have the ap- length, cut through hard red clay and pearance of the old feudal castles so sandstone. It is at present approached | often spoken of, so seldom seen, by mod- from the east by two loog pieces of tres. | ern tourists. For a long distance these tle work, one of which is 230 feet long rocks line the right hand bank of the and 30 feet high; the other, 450 feet long canyon, their massive red sandstone and 75 feet high, which will be filled in fronts towering from 500 to 2,000 feet in time. It opens to the westward, into above the little valley, and bearing the a beautiful little canyon, with a narrow general name of“ Castle Rocks.” strip of grassy bottom land on either Now we descend the canyon amid side of a miniature stream, known as the some of the grandest and wildest scenery North Fork of Echo. The hills are imaginable. We do not creep on it as abrupt, and near the road, leaving though we mistrusted our powers, but scarcely more than room for a roadway, with a snort and roar the engine plunges including the grassy land referred to. down the defile, which momentarily in- Along these bluffs, on the left hand side creases to a gorge, only to become, in a of the stream, the road-bed has been short distance, a grand and awful chasm. made by cutting down the sides of the About seven miles below Castle Rock, hills and filling hollows, in some places the traveler can behold the natural from 50 to 75 feet deep. bridge, a conglomerate formation, span- Before the tunnel was completed, the ning a cleft in the wall on the right road was laid temporarily from the hand side. This divide into Echo canyon by a Z or zig. zag track, which let the cars down to HANGING ROCK the head of the canyon. The great dif. Of Echo has more than a local reputa- ficulty to overcome here was the absence tion. (See Illustration.) It gave the of spurs or sloping hills to carry the name to one of the overland stage sta- grade. Every thing seems to give way tions, when the completion of this road at once, and pitch headlong away to the was, but in the dreams of its sanguine level of the lake. The rim, or outer projectors, an undefined and visionary edge of the table lands, breaks abruptly Thing of the future. The rock is close over, and the streams which make out by the old stage road at the foot of the from this table land, instead of keeping mountain, and looks as though the ele- their usual grade, seem to cut through ments had been wearing the center of it the rim and drop into the valley below, away for centuries, until they had suc- there being no uplands to carry them. ceeded in cutting it in two, save the ECHO CANYON. harder crust, which now spans the chan- nel made by old father Time. By the present line of the road we The left hand side of the canyon pre- enter the canyon proper at the little sta sents but few attractions, compared with tion of the bolder and loftier bluffs opposite. CASTLE ROCK. The left hand wall breaks away and re- This has an elevation of 6,290 feet. cedes in sloping, grassy hillsides, while Unless the coal-bearing veins which we know not what lies beyond these have been discovered below should be walls to our right, for they close the traced as far as this point, we cannot | view in that direction. Wall, solid wall, expect this station to reach any great broken wall, walls of sandstone, walls of importance. In the event of coal being granite, and walls of a conglomerate of found here, it would attain a better posi- both, mixed with clay, rise far above us, tion as a coaling depot. It derives its and shut from our vision whatever lies name from the long line of sandstone beyond. bluffs on the right hand side of the can- The beauties of Echo canyon are so GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. PULPIT ROCK, (foot of Echo Canyon.) many, so majestic, so awe inspiring in their sublimity, that their is little use in calling the traveler's attention to them. But as we rush swiftly along, seemingly beneath these towering heights, we can note some of the most prominent features. The only difficulty will be that one will hardly see them all, as the cars thunder along, waking the echoes among these castellated monuments of red rock, whose towering domes and frowning buttresses gave the name to this remarkable opening in the Wah- satch Mountains. Four miles below Hanging Rock the walls rise in massive majesty—the prominent features of the canyon. Rain, wind and time have combined to destroy them, but in vain. Centuries have come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to its center, when Echo and Weber canyons sprung into existence-twin children, whose birth was heralded by throes, such as the earth may never feel again, and still the mighty wall of Echo remains, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers, the elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from the walls; still the pillar, col- umn, dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and wierd beauty to entrance the traveler, and fill his mind with wonder and awe. MORMON FORTIFICATIONS. About six miles below Hanging Rock, up on the topmost heights of the tow- ering cliffs, a thousand feet above the bed of the canyon, can be seen the for- tifications erected by the Mormons, to defend this pass against the army under Johnson, sent out in '57 by Uncle Sam. These fortifications consist of massive rocks, placed on the verge of the preci pice, which were to be toppled over on the heads of the soldiers below, but the experiment was never made, so the rocks remain, to be used on some other foe, or as evidences of a people's folly. On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering column and rugged battlement, past ravines which cut the walls from crest to base in aw- ful chasms, shooting over bridges and flying past and under the overhanging walls; when, after crossing the Echo creek thirty-one times in twenty-six miles, we rush past the Witches' Cave | and Pulpit Rock, our engine giving 94 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE." being a central point for a rapidly im- of Weber canyon, through which the proving country. It now contains road is cut for two miles, most of the about 750 inhabitants, including those way in the side of the steep mountain settlers near by and the railroad em that drops its base in the river bed. ployes. Coal beds, extensive ones, are Shortly after entering the Narrows, the found near by, as well as an indefinite quantity of iron ore, which must pos- ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, sess a market value, sooner or later. is passed-a thrifty branching pine- Near Echo City, across the Weber, a | bearing on its trunk a sign-board that ravine leads up the mountain side, tells the western bound traveler that he winding and turning around among the has passed over 1,000 miles of railway gray old crags, until it leads into a from Omaha. (See illustration.) This beautiful little dell, in the center of living mile stone of nature's planting, which reposes a miniature lakelet, shut has long marked this place ; long before in on all sides by the hills. It is a charm the hardy Mormon passed down this ing, beautiful tiny little gem, nestled wild gorge ; long before the great trans- amid a gray, grand setting of granite continental railroad was even thought of. peaks and pine clad gorges-a speck of It stood a lonely sentinel, when all delicate etherealized beauty, amid the around was desolation; when the lurk. strength and ruggedness of a coarser ing savage and wild beast claimed su- world. premacy, and each in turn reposed in WEBER CANYON. the shade of its waving arms. How We shall not attempt to give a minute changed the scene! The ceaseless bus. tle of an active, progressive age, the description of this remarkable place, hum of labor, the roar and rush of the which would fill a volume were its beau- passing locomotive has usurped the old ties fully delineated, and each point of quiet, and henceforward the lone tree interest noted. But as one of the grand will be, not a guide to the gloomy past, and remarkable features of the road, it but an index of the coming greatness of demands a notice, however meager, at a regenerated country. our hands. For about 40 miles, the river rushes, foaming along, between two SERRATED ROCKS OR DEVIL'S SLIDE. massive mountain walls, which close the Near the “thousand mile tree” two landscape on either hand. Now, the ridges of granite rock are seen on the torrent plunges over some mighty rock left hand side of the road, reaching from which has fallen from the towering cliff; the river nearly to the summit of a anon, it whirls around in frantic strug- sloping, grass-clad mountain. They are gles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence springing forward over a short, from 50 to 200 feet high, narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though forced out smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge of the mountain side. The two ridges again and again, until it breaks forth run parallel with each other, about 100 into the plains, whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted feet apart, the space between being with its wild journey through the can. covered with grass, wild flowers and climbing vines. (See illustration.] yon. Rushing swiftly along, we lose sight From the time of leaving Echo City, of these rocks to behold others more the traveler must closely watch the can. grand, of different shapes, and massive yon walls, for fresh objects of wonder proportions. The mountains seem to and interest will spring suddenly into have been dovetailed together, and then sight on either hand. torn rudely asunder, leaving the rough Leaving Echo City, the cars speed promontories and rugged chasme, as so along the banks of the Weber for about 1 many obstacles to bar our progress. But six miles, when they enter the Narrows engineering skill has triumphed over GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, (West from Omaha.) all. Where the road could not be built | are called Morgan City. The buildings over or around these points, it is tun are mostly of logs and sun-dried bricks. neled under. Now, we shoot across the The villages are separated by the river, river, and dart through a tunnel 55Q which flows through bottom land, much feet long, cut in solid rock, with heavy of which is under cultivation for 10 milės. cuts and fills at either entrance. Just The road follows down the right before entering this tunnel, high up to hand bank through this valley until the left, formerly stood“ Finger Rock," just below this station, when it crosses as seen in the illustration, but which to the left hand side, which it follows has been broken away, so as not to be for two miles further, between towering visible now. The frowning cliffs bar mountains, the valley now lost in the our further way, and again we cross the narrow, gloomy gorge, when suddenly roaring torrent and burrow under the the whistle shrieks the password as we point of another rocky promontory. | approach Here the road stretches across a pretty little valley, known as Round Valley. DEVIL'S GATE STATION, Dashing along, with but a moment to Twelve miles from Weber. Soon after spare in which to note its beauties, we leaving the station, the brink of the tor- enter the narrowing gorge again, where rent is neared and the wild scenery of the massive walls close in and crush out the Devil s Gate is before us. Onward the green meadows. Between these toils the long train across the bridge ; lofty walls, with barely room for the 50 feet above the seething cauldron of track between them and the foaming waters, where massive frowning rocks torrent at our feet, on, around a jutting rear their crests, far up toward the black point, and again we emerged into a and threatening clouds which hover lengthened widening of the canyon, and over this witches' cauldron. With we pause for a moment at bated breath, we gaze on this wild scene WEBER STATION. and vainly try to analyze our feelings, This station lies between two Mormon in which awe, wonder, and admiration settlements, which, taken in connection. I are blended. No time for thought, as 96 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. to how or when this mighty work was The Union & Central Pacific Roads accomplished ; no time or inclination to have a union depot, large freight houses, compare the work of Nature with the round houses, machine and repair puny work beneath us, but onward, shops, and employ a large number of with quickened speed, down the right men. It is a regular eating station, and hand bank of the stream; on between a good restaurant is kept in the fine these massive piles, worn and seamed in building erected by the company. their ceaseles struggles against the de- stroying hand of time; on to where yon OGDEN CITY, opening of light marks the open coun. The business part of the town is try; on, past towering mountain and top | three-fourths of a mile from the depot; pling rock, until we catch a view of the the Utah Central about a quarter of a broad, sunlit plains, and from the last mile nearer the center of the city. The and blackest of the buttresses which latter cars, however, back down to the guard the entrance into Weber, we Union depot for passengers, thus con. emerge to light and beauty, to catch the | necting the three roads at one and the first view of the Great Salt Lake-to be- same station, taking passengers from the hold broad plains and well cultivated same deput. fields which stretch their lines of way. The city is at the mouth of Ogden can. ing green and golden shades beyond, yon, one of the gorges which pierce the UINTAH STATION, Wahsatch range, and between the We have now passed through the Weber and Ogden rivers. It has a Wahsatch Mountains, and are fairly in population of about 5,500. The Ogden the Great Salt Lake Valley. The ele House is the principal hotel. The vation at this point is 4,560 feet, 2,319 town is mostly Mormon, the schools and feet lower than Wahsatch, 58 miles to churches being under the control of the the eastward. From this point to Church of Latter Day Saints. It is the Omaha the distance is 1,024 miles; to county seat of Weber county, and will, Sacramento, 752 miles. in time, become a place of considerable The road winds around to the right importance, owing to the fact that it soon after leaving the station, following is the terminus of the Utah Central the base of the mountains, with the as well as the Union & Central Pa. river on the left. We pass through a cific Railroads. The Mormons have fertile country, dotted with well tilled a Tabernacle here, and a semi-weekly farms, for six miles, when we pass Tay. newspaper, “The Ogden Junction." lor's Switch, near by Taylor's Mills, and The scenery immediately around Og. two miles from Ogden City. den is not very striking, but still there is enough to interest the tourist for a OGDEN STATION. day, if he but take the trouble to wan- Elevation, 4,340 feet. From Omaha, der among the hills and along the can- 1.032 miles, Sacramento, 742 miles. yons. Ogden canyon is about five miles The government has decided to fix long, and from its mouth to its source, the terminus and point of junction of from plain to mountain top, the scenery the Union and Central Pacific Railroad is grand and imposing. About six miles companies on the line of railroad as now from Ogden, up in the mountains behind located and constructed northwest of the the town, is a lovely little valley called station at Ogden, and within the limits “the basin," watered by mountain of section 36, of township 7, of range 2, streams and covered with a luxuriant situate north and west of the principal growth of grass. meridan and base line in the territory Before proceeding further we will of Utah, and the said companies are take a hasty view of Utah Territory, be- hereby authorized to enter upon, use, ginning with the Utah Central Rail and possess sections 25, 26 and 35 of Road. township 7. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 97 NA MKURWOW BRIGHAM YOUNG, President of the Utah Central Railroad. OFFICERS: WILLIAM JENNINGS, Vice President. DANIEL H. WELLS, Treas. JOSEPH A. YOUNG, Gen. Supt. John W. YOUNG, Secretary. FERAMORZ LITTLE, Ass't Gen. Supt. The Utah Central Railroad. of the road lies through a thickly settled and highly cultivated country, border- The Utah Central Railroad connects ing the lake for 20 miles, passing close Salt Lake City with the trans-continen to the thriving villages of Kaysville, tal line at Ogden. The road is 36 miles | Farmington, Centerville and Bountiful. long-owned and controlled by the citi- From the cars we get a good view of zens of Utah Territory. Ground was Great Salt Lake, the waters of which broken at Ogden on the 17th of May, | are so exceedingly salt, that no living '69, and the enterprise was inaugurated thing can exist therein. But in summer with due ceremonies, Brigham Young it is a most delightful place to bathe, and the chief dignitaries of the Mormon the placid waters being warm and so church being in attendance. The route very buoyant, as to enable one to float 98 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. on its surface with but little or no effort. MINERALS. Bathing in the lake is very invigorating Rich veins of gold, silver, iron, and and strengthening, and said to be very nearly all the metals found in the great beneficial in chronic diseases. We shall west, are found to exist in Utah, though speak of Salt Lake again at the summit as yet but few mines have been pros- of Promontory Point, where the finest pected or worked. In the summer of view of these waters can be had. With- '68, several miners were at work in in three miles of Salt Lake City, the road Bingham canyon in the Oquirrh range, passes a small bay-jutting out from on the west side of Salt Lake Valley, Hot Spring Lake-and thence to the and since that time several new mines city by easy grade, entering the town at have been discovered and opened. The its northwestern extremity. The road Wahsatch Mountains have many fea- will be of great benefit to the people of tures in common with the mountain Utah generally, and we commend their ranges where silver veins are found, and wisdom in retaining the control of so in Cottonwood canyon, east of the valley important an institution. and in the range spoken of, some very In connection with this road, the mind rich veins are being worked. naturally reverts to At Rush Valley, 40 miles west of the city, on the old overland stage road, ex- UTAH TERRITORY, tensive gold mines have been discover. A slight sketch of which we present to ed -gold-bearing quartz and placer the readers of the GUIDE. Utah occu mines—the whole in what is known as pies an area of about 65,000 square Rush Valley Mining District. These miles, including large tracts of wild, mines were discovered in 1866 by sol. mountainous and barren country. At diers of General Conner's command, present, about 135,000 acres are under who were in this valley recruiting their cultivation, including the lands around animals. The General is largely inter- the lake and the neighboring mountain ested in several veins or lodes, which valleys. This area is very productive give evidence of being very valuable. when irrigated ; grains, fruits and vege- The general character of the ores is ar- tables maturing readily, and yielding gentiferous galena, which is worked by large returns. From the Salt Lake City reduction. Directory, edited by E. L. Sloan, we There are three furnaces in operation, gather the following interesting infor- one owned by a Chicago company. mation: “In 1867, over 80,000 acres The ores are easily smelted, and yield were planted in cereals; nearly 2,000 in handsome returns. Captain Stover, an sugar cane, from which molasses was old Californian prospector, has discov. made; some 6,800 in root crops ; nearly | ered and is working some valuable 200 in cotton; 900 in apple orchards ; mines in the same district. The best 1,000 in peaches; 75 in grapes ; 195 in point at which to leave the cars to currants, while 30,000 were in meadow. proceed to these mines is Corinne. Of this, about 94,000 had to be irrigated, There take the steamer and cross the at a cost during the year, in making lake to Stockton, thence to the mines. canals, dams for irrigation purposes, Iron ore exists in large quantities in cleaning out ditches, etc., of nearly many portions of the Territory. The $247,000.” In explanation of the sta- principal district containing this metal tistics of '67 being given, we remark is in Iron and Summit counties. In the that the ravages committed by the grass- furmer, iron works were erected in 1852, hoppers during the following years, pre | and a small quantity of iron was madu. vented anything like a fair estimate factured, but owing to the want of fuel being given of the productions of the the enterprise was abandoned. Territory. Another successful effort in that line was made in June, '68, by the Union 100 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. hills in abundance, but is difficult of ac feet above the ground. Estimated cost, cess. when complete, $3,000,000. The stone The principal material used in build -a fine quality of granite...of which it ing the city was stone and “adobes" is to be constructed, is obtained in the (sun-dried brick), hence it presents the | mountains, 18 miles distant. appearance of a European town in that The city contains several public build. respect. ings besides the Tabernacle and Temple, The streets are wide, bordered with which are worthy of note. The theatre shade trees and laid out at right angles. is large, and built of stone, on a scale Along each side of the streets is a clear, corresponding with the buildings spoken cold stream of water from the mountain of. The council house, city hall, city canyons, which, with the numerous prisons, &c., are well built structures, a shade trees and gardens, give the city an credit to any town. indescribable air of coolness, comfort and repose. The city contains a popu- ST. MARK'S MISSION. lation of 25,000 to 30,000. The public This mission was established by the buildings, consist of, first, Protestant Episcopal church. The ser- THE TABERNACLE, vice is held in Independence Hall, where a large Sunday School also receives in- An immense structure, the first ob- struction. A select school is connected ject one beholds on entering the city. with the church, and is in a flourishing At a distance, its bell-shaped roof looks condition. Rev. Mr. Foote is Pastor of like a large hill rising above the trees. the church and principal of the school. The building is oblong in shape, having a length of 250 feet from east to west, STAGE LINES. by 150 in width. The roof is supported Stages leave regularly for the south, by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which, carrying the U. S. mail and express, via with the spaces between used for doors, Provo, Fillmore, St. George, San Ber- windows, &c., constitute the wall. From nardino, and Los Angeles in Lower Cal- these pillars or wall, the roof springs in ifornia. For the west, Stockton and one unbroken arch, forming the largest Rush Valley. self-sustaining roof on the continent. The ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above NEWSPAPERS AND HOTELS. the floor. In one end of this egg-shaped The Deseret News, daily and weekly, building is the organ-the second in size in America. It was built by a Mormon, edited by Geo. Q. Cannon, is published J. Ridges, and was in course of here. It is the church organ, and very construction about four years. The zealous in support of the “ peculiar Tabernacle is used for church purposes, ideas " taught by the Mormon church. as well as for other large gatherings of The Mormon Herald is published weekly, the people. With the gallery, which by Godby & Harrison, seceders from the extends across both sides and one end of faith, or “Apostate Mormons.” The this immense building, it will seat 8,000 Salt Lake Telegraph, daily and weekly, independent in religion and politics, people. There is only the foundation of claiming as its platform, truth, justice the Temple as yet, but the people con- and liberty to all. It is the oldest and fidently expect that the massive build- largest daily paper in the Territory. ing will, in time, be erected according Edited and published by M. A. Fuller: to design. The dimensions of the foun- E. L. Sloan, associate editor. dations are 99x1864 feet. When com- There are several hotels, the “Salt plete, the main building will be 100 feet Lake House," “ Townsend House," and high, surmounted by six towers, three “Revere House” being the principal on each end, the center ones rising 200 ones, GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 101 SS TO TE THE LORD ELORD I AM THE LO WITHY COS HOLINESS TRUMBOS CREED ZION'S ₂ /₂₂/ti₂ §§\§₂ÂÒ MERCANTILE INSTITUTION IN ISAIAH.MICAH CHAP1.48EWAP.Z.TR 81 7.5A in. THY REDEEMERI. THE HOLY ONE OF (LORD OF HOSTS! ONE OF ISRAEL GOD ON EART IUSTS! YEA VERILY I AM LORD OF LORDS! AND KING OF KINGS AND KINU The above cut represents the Mormon “Co-operative Sign”-called by the Gentiles the “Bulls Eye." At the Mormon conference, in the fall of 1868, all good Mormon merchants, manufac- turers and dealers who desired the pat- ronage of the Mormon people, were di- rected to place this sign upon their buildings in a conspicuous place, that it might indicate to the people that they were sound in the faith. The Mormon people were also di- rected and warned not to purchase goods or in any manner deal with those who refused or did not have the sign,-the object seemed to be only to deal with their own people, to the exclusion of all others. The result of these measures on the part of the church was to force many who were Gentiles or A postate Mormons to sacrifice their goods, and leave the Territory for want of patronage. Some few, however, remained. Among whom was J. K. Trumbo, an auction and commission merchant, who procured the painting of what was known as the “GENTILE SIGN." This sign was placed in position on the front of his store, on the morning of the 26th of February, 1869, in a similar position to those of the Mormons. All day wondering crowds of people of all classes, little and big, hovered about the premises, and many opinions were ex- pressed as to the propriety of the sign, and whether it would be allowed to re- main by the Mormons; but at about 7 o'clock in the evening the problem was solved, by a charge made by several young Mormons, who, with ladders climbed upon the building and secured ropes upon the sign, while the crowd below tore it down, and dragged it through the streets, dashing it to pieces. This should be a warning to all “ Gen- tiles" in future, not to expend their mo- ney in signs to be placed on their stores in Utah-unless they have permission. 102 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. Horn. So HOT SPRINGS. JORDAN RIVER. This steam is the outlet of Utah One mile north of the city are the cel- Lake, which lies about forty miles south. ebrated warm springs, where the city baths are situated. These are the dis- It empties into the Great Salt Lake. puted springs, to obtain which, it is sup- The time is not far distant, when, ac- cording to some modern prophets, the posed by many, Dr. Robinson was cars will stop for dinner at Utah Lake. murdered by the Mormons, that the on their way to the City of Mexico, city might obtain possession. Suit is still pending. The baths are well Panama South America, and Cape patronized by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their medicinal CAMP DOUGLAS. qualities to remove their ailments. The This post was established October 26, following is an analysis of the water, as 1862, by General E. P. Conner, Third made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of Bos- Regiment of California Volunteer In- ton: fantry. It is on the east side of the "Three fluid ounces of the water on evaporation river Jordan, four miles from that to entire dryness in a platina capsule gave 8.25 stream, three miles east of the city of grains of solid, dry, saline matter. Salt Lake, and 15 miles southest of Salt Carbonate of Lime and Magnesia....0.240 1.280 Lake. Latitude, 40 deg. 46 min. 02 sec.; Per Oxide of Iron......... ........0.040 0.208 Lime.... ..0.545 longitude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. Its 2.907 Chloride.... ..3.454 18.421 location is on a sloping upland or bench Soda.................................... ..2.877 15.344 at the base of the mountains and over- Magnesia... ..0.370 2.073 looking the city. The garrison consists Sulphuric Acid.... ......0,703 3.748 of companies A, C, and G, of the Seventh 8.229 43.981 Infantry, and the headquarters of that “ It is slightly charged with Hydro Sulphuric regiment. It is under command of Bre- Acid Gas, and with Carbonic Acid Gas, and is a vet Major-General John Gibbon, post pleasant, salipe mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs," commander; Surgeon W. C. Spencer, The usual temperature is 102 dg. F.” U. S. A., present post surgeon; Rev. Two miles further are the Hot Springs, Thomas W. Haskins, post chaplain; E. said to be similar in quality to those B. Zabriskie, post trader. named, but much warmer and of a larger SKETCH OF BRIGHAM YOUNG. volume of water. The spring boils out Brigham Young, President and at the foot of a rock-where a sloping Prophet, of the Mormon Church, or spur of the mouutain strikes the plain “ Church of the Latter Day Saints" in a very large volume, forming a creek (whose portrait will be found on an- several feet in width, with a depth of six other page) stands prominently for- inches, and it is very hot. There is no ward as one of the most remarkable nonsense about this spring; we have | men of the 19th century. He was born tried the waters thereof, and came away in Whittingham, Windham county, with skinned fingers. It will boil an Vermont, on the 1st day of June, 1801. egg in four minutes. Close by, lying to His father, John Young, was a revolu- the westward, is a charming little lake, tionary veteran, and served in three about three miles long and somewhat campaigns under Washington. The over a mile in width. It is formed from family consisted of six daughters and the waters of these springs, and is called five sons, of whom Brigham was the “Hot Spring Lake." It is bordered on fourth. In early life he was connected one side with trees, which give the place with the Methodists, and at this time a very pleasant appearance in the sum- | he followed the occupation of carpenter mer. In the winter, when the lake is | and joiner, painter and glazier. He was frozen over, it is a favorite resort for first married in 1824, and in the spring skating partics 1 of 1830 first saw the “Book of Mor. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 103 BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDENCE. mon," of which he afterwards became Joseph Smith publicly said that the so firm a believer and prominent sup. time would come when Brigham Young porter. In April, 1832, he was baptized would rule over the church. From this à member of the “Church of Jesus time Mr. Young became a zealous and Christ of Latter Day Saints.” During the successful advocate of Mormonism previous January he had visited Colum Early in 1835 he was ordained one of bia, Pennsylvania, where there was a the Twelve Apostles of the Mormon branch of the church-making a lengthy Church, on the organization of that stay--that he might become better ac quorum; and subsequently became pres- quainted with its principles. This is ident of the twelve, through the defec. characteristic of President Young, who tion of Thomas B. Marsh, who was his makes up his mind only after mature senior in years, and, for that reason, deliberation, and then, he is very firm, previously held that office. holding to his opinion or belief with As one of the apostles, Mr. Young great tenacity. filled several missions, traveling exten- In the following September his wife sively through the Eastern States, died and he started for Kirtland, Ohio, preaching, proselyting, building up and to see Joseph Smith, the Mormon regulating branches of the church, etc. prophet. The meeting of these two | On the 9th of March, 1840, in company men-one the founder of the church, with H. C. Kimball, his late first coun- the other destined to become his pow. selor in the presidency of the church, erful successor as its leader-took place George A. Smith, his present first coun- in the woods near Kirtland, where the selor, and other missionaries, he sailed prophet had gone to chop wood, and from New York on a mission to Great whither Mr. Young followed to make | Britain, and arrived in Liverpool April his acquaintance. A few evenings after 6th. He spent a little over fourteen this first meeting, it is recorded that 'months in England, during which time 104 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. several thousand persons were cun United States—to whom the country verted, and the publication of the Mile had been ceded by treaty-extended its nial Star, the first foreign Mormon pub laws over it, and a Territorial govern- lication, was commenced. It was issued ment was provided by act of Congress. as a serial, and has been continued in This occurred in October, 1850, and Mr. that form, and issued regularly from Young was appointed Governor of that time until the present. Utah, as the Territory was then called, On his return from England, he filled and continued to rule it until '57. other missions, traveling and preaching in the East, his family remaining in President Young has taken a promi. Nauvoo. He was absent from that city nent part in all public improvements, in when Joseph Smith and his brother every plan calculated to facilitate com Hiram were murdered in Carthage. He munication between the Territory and the Eastern States ; materially assisting immediately returned to Nauvoo, with in forming several express companies other prominent members of the church, and stage lines. He built several hun and proceeded to take such measures as were deemed best for the protection of dred miles of the Western Union Tele- the citizens of Nauvoo and the Mormons graph, graded 150 miles of the Union Pacific Railroad, and has ever offered in the neighborhood, who were hourly threatened with extermination. his assistance to every enterprise of the Early in ’46 it became imperative to kind which had a material bearing on vacate Nauvoo, and Mr. Young directed the interests of Utah. He was also the the fleeing thousands of the Mormon principal mover in the construction of church in their westward journey, him- the Deseret Telegraph line, wbich con- self and many others of the organization pects the northern and southern settle- leaving, for the fifth time, to seek a new ments of Utah, nearly 500 miles apart. home. The bulk of the Mormons made He used every effort to push forward to their way to the Missouri river, through an early completion the Utah Central the then wild, upsettled country, now Railroad, of which he is the president. forming the State of Iowa, and remained His great influence over his people was temporarily located during the winter strongly illustrated by the promptness of '46 and '47 at Council Bluffs. with which they responded to his call In '47, Mr. Young led a band of pio- to build the grade on the U. P. R. R.; neers westward, toward the Rocky men, teams, &c., coming from all parts Mountains, and on the 24th of July of of the Territory. Nearly every settle- the same year arrived in the valley of ment sent its quota to help in finishing the Great Salt Lake, where a settlement the work. was immediately formed. Such is a brief, reliable sketch of the In the fall of 47, he returned to the life of Brigam Young. While it is not Missouri, and in the spring of '48, after the purpose of the writer of the GUIDE having been accepted as President of to indorse or condemn any man or his the Church, he organized a large com public acts, we yet will venture to say pany of his people, and proceeded with that thus far, whatever President Young them to the new settlement in Salt Lake has attempted in the matter of public Valley. works, he has certainly accomplished. There being no organized govern We now take leave of him, his people, ment in the territory where they settled and his railroad, and return to Ogden, —which then belonged to Mexico—the | this time seating ourselves in the beau- people formed a provisional State, with tiful Silver Palace Coaches on the Cen- the title of Deseret, of which Mr Young | tral Pacific, for at this junction of the was unanimously elected Governor, three roads we change cars, unless on which position he held for nearly three board the Hotel through train. years, until the Government of the GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 105 BAKER HON. LELAND STANFORD, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Calao OFFICERS: C. P. HUNTINGTON, Vice-President. CHAS. CROCKER, 2d Vice-President. MARK HOPKINS, Treasurer. E. B. CROCKER, Attorney and General Agent. E. H. MILLER, JR, Secretary, W. H. PORTER, Cashier. S. S. MONTAGUE, Chief Engineer. B. B. REDDING, Land Commissioner. A. N. Town, General Superintendent. JOHN CORNING, Assistant General Superintendent. T. H. GOODMAN, General Freight and Passenger Agent. 106 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. The Central Pacific Railroad fornia knew that their election was in part owing to this feeling, and that The history of the great trans-conti- much was expected of them by their nental railroad is familiar to all Ameri- constituents. They failed not when cans, who have watched its progress the time arrived, but to one-A. A. from the time when the first shovclful Sargent-more than all others, is Cali- of dirt was lifted in its construction un- fornia indebted for the great work til its final completion. Yet each por- which now binds her to her Eastern tion, the west as well as the east, has a sisters. bit of history attached to it, in which But we are proceeding too fast, over- the people of that locality take especial looking, but not forgetting, another pride. Without tiring our readers with name, none the less honored because a long array of figures, we propose to the bearer lived not to behold the final give a brief sketch of the Central Pa. completion of the work he initiated and citic R. R., and in this connection we so earnestly advocated. Theodore D. shall claim that the Golden State, by Judah now sleeps the sleep that knows her representative, was really the mov. no awaking, but still his presence can ing power which brought this mighty be seen and felt in every mile of the project before the nation, secured its grand road which his genius brought aid, and by that means, assured its rapid | into being. His name is a household completion. For some years previous word in the West, for thousands knew to the time when the final act was and appreciated the manly spirit and passed by Congress—which was to pro genial mind of the earnest, persistent vide those of the western coast with and sanguine ENGINEER. speedy and safe communication with In the then little hamlet of Sacra- the homes of their youth-the question mento dwelt C. P. Huntington, “ Char- of the grand trunk road had been dis ley" Crocker, Mark Hopkins and a cussed by Californians as a public, and few others—warm personal friends of as private individuals. Many self-reli Judah-who, often, in the long, winter ant men were sanguine of success, evenings, gathered around the stove in could the project be rightly brought be Huntington & Hopkin's store room, and fore Congress. This feeling grew there discussed the merits and demerits among the people of California, until a of the Judah theory. These and some man who sought office at the hands of other gentlemen became convinced that the people could not be elected were he | the engineer was right—that the scheme not a “railroad man,” provided that of was practicable. They subscribed $50 fice was one wherein the holder could a piece, and, in the summer, Judah and injure the prospects of the proposed | his assistants made a careful survey of road. Through the counties where the the passes in the Sierras. This was in line was supposed to run, the question the summer of 1860, and in the fall the was strongly agitated, for those coun. engineer party returned, toil-worn and ties were expected to assist the under travel-stained, but vastly encouraged taking, by voting their credit in various and elated with the result of their sum- sums. So eager were the people of the mer's work. So favorable was the interior of the State to have the enter- report that $1,500 was immediately prise commenced and completed, that raised to be used the following summer they were willing to accede to any in the same manner. The summer of terms which would insure the success '61 found Judah and his party in the of the enterprise and relieve them from gulches and defiles of the Sierras, ear- the oppression of a powerful water mo nestly prosecuting their labors. The nopoly, which controlled the main line result but confirmed the previus report, of travel to the east. with, if possble, more encouraging de- The members of Congress from Cali. | tails regarding country, cost, etc. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 107 Judah then visited many of the prin- name in California,) were his most ef- cipal capitalists of San Francisco to ficient supporters in the House. In the obtain subscriptions for the work, but Senate, McDougal, of California, Wilson, failed to obtain a dollar. “But this road of Massachusetts, and Morrill, of Maine, - what was it ? Nothing that concerned also stood manfully by the measure. them. It did not represent capital A | And there was fought the great battle. poor engineer wanted to make some There, enlightened ideas, assisted by money, and had started the idea for young and vigorous intellects, met and that purpose.” These wise men shook conquered prejudice and moneyed oppo- their heads, and sneered at the undertak sition, and opened a new commercial era ing. “What can they do," said they, in the annals of the Union. But it was “even with their charter from the State ? not accomplished without a long and They have no money--they are poormen. wearying struggle, in which the bull-dog It's only a sharp dodge on their part. pertinacity and fierce grip of Sargent They think the road will be undertaken was manifested. Day after day, for in time and then when that time arrives, weary weeks, in the Committee of the they will stand a chance to sell their Whole, Sargent and Campbell stood up charter, and realize a few thousands alternately, and answered objections as that's all. But they'll die before that fast as made, in short, sharp, close and time comes. Yes, they'll be dead before cutting speeches. And night after night, a railroad will be built across the conti they held interviews with Eastern Sena- nent.” Such was the general tone of con tors and Representatives, while at their versation among moneyed men regard side, supplying them with information ing the road in its infancy, and it cannot on all desired points, sat Theodore D. be denied that the people of California Judah, the engineer, earnest and hope- owe nothing to the capitalists of their ful to the last. Senators did not nor State--not even their thanks-for aid in would not believe that the road could or the earliest days of the enterprise. The would be built. Said Lovejoy, during bone and sinew of the people—the me one of the debates: “Do I understand chanic and the merchant, the farmer, the gentleman from California to say laborer and miner-did all that could be that he actually expects this road to be expected of them. But the capitalists built ?” “ The gentleman from Illinois held back and for good reason. They may understand me to predict that if feared that the railroad would give the this bill is passed, the road will be fin- death blow to the monopolies in which ished within ten years," responded they were more or less interested. Sac Sargent. People can now judge be- ramento alone deserves the credit of hay tween Lovejoy's and Sargent's ideas of ing originated and brought to a suc the vigor of the West. cessful completion the Central Pacific The end came, the bill was finally Railroad. When the State had chartered passed, and the news thereof caused the the company, when only funds were nec hearts of Californians to leap for joy. cessary to insure the completion of the Ground was broken at Sacramento, and work, only two subscriptions were ob work commenced immediately. Another tained in San Francisco, and one of battle was to be fought, a financial one. these came from a woman. Before they could receive any aid from In '62, Judah went to Washington Government, 40 miles of road must be with charts, maps, &c., of the road. built and stocked, which would cost at Sargent was there, as enthusiastic in the least $4,000,000, for that 40 miles car- support of the measure as Judah him- ried the road far up among the Sierras, self. He drew up the bill under which | through a great portion of their heavy the road was built. James H. Campbell, work. Money was “tight”-in fact it of Pennsylvania, and Schuyler Colfax, always is when a man wants some- (than whose there is no more honored commanding two per cent. per month GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 109 bench, whereon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two oth: ers, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake has had three different altitudes before they reached their present level. About six miles west of Bonneville we pass near WILLARD CITY. A Mormon town of 900 inhabitants, situated at the base of the mountains. The mountains near this town present indications which would assure the “prospector” that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires, most effectually knocking many philosophical theories into a cocked hat, leaving their originators to study nature more and books less. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The mass- es of lava lying around-its bleak, bar- ren, and desolate appearance-would seem to indicate that not many years had elapsed since it was in active ope- ration. BRIGHAM CITY. But a few miles further on and we pass this town which, like the preced- ing one, is nestling close to the base of the mountain on our right. Like Wil. lard City, it is a Mormon town, em- bowered in fruit trees. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The pub- lic buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. Passing Brigham City, we incline fur. ther away from the lake road, bearing up on the higher land. Now we cross Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles being driven in water 18 feet deep. A half mile beyond lies the only real Gentile town in Utah Terri. tory, CORINNE, This town contains about 1,000 inhab- itants, and, at present, is the center of a very extensive trade. It has an eleva- tion of 4,294 feet. Distance from Oma. ha, 1,056 miles; from Sacramento, 718. It is situated near the west bank of Bear river, a few miles from the lake. The town is new yet, and many build. ings are very primitive in construction. Still there are good buildings already constructed, and others are being put up. Among the buildings worthy of notice, is a substantial hotel, ticket, freight and telegraph offices. The Utah Reporter, a Gentile paper, a perfect thorn in the side of the Mor- mons, is published semi-weekly. The population of Corinne, like that of all new railroad towns, has been very fluctuating. The advantages pos- sessed by Corinne cannot fail to render the place one of great importance in time, being, as it is, the distributing point for the Montana trade. Around the town are thousands of acres of fine land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them productive in the highest degree, and water for that purpose can be obtained from Bear river at little expense. STAGE LINES AND OTHER CONVEYANCES. Coaches leave daily on arrival of pas- senger trains, carrying the U. S. mail and express, to 'Virginia City and Helena, Montana Territory. To Vir- ginia City, 358 miles; to Helena, 482 miles. The “Kate Connor," a small steamer built by Gen. Connor, plys on Bear river and the lake, carrying passengers to various points, also taking excursion and pleasure parties to the islands and other points of interest. The route to Montana passes up Ma- lad Valley and thence along the regular coach road to Virginia City and Helena. The country traversed is very diversified, mountain and valley, hill and glen alter- 110 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. nating, rendering the route attractive to which swept over this city in 1869, com- the lovers of scenery. Malad and other pletely destroying the business portion valleys along the road are fertile and of the town. Within 60 days the town well watered; where many Mormon was rebuilt with substantial buildings settlements will be found, surrounded of brick and stone, showing that the by flourishing farms. Helenites had full faith in their city and the country's resources and recuperative MONTANA TERRITORY. powers. I'wo daily papers are pub- This Territory lies to the north of lished here: the Herald, by Fisk & Co., Utah, and is generally considered solely and the Gazette, by Wilkinson & Co. as a mining country. Although at one VIRGINIA CITY. time Montana possessed excellent placer gold mines and “gulch diggings,” they The capital of Montana, contains about have mostly been worked out, conse- 1,000 inhabitants. The Democrat, a tri- quently entailing dull times on the Ter- weekly paper, is published by J. T. ritory, or that portion devoted to min- Bruce. ing. The mining is now mostly confined We will now return to the railroad, to quartz, and before this can be rendered and proceed westward. successful some time must elapse. Cap- LEAVING CORINNE, ital must be furnished to develop these veins, however rich they may be; and We gradually draw near the base of the until the time arrives when her quartz mountains, which slope nearer toward mines are fully developed, Montana the waters of the lake. The farming will feel the decline of her placer lands gradually give way to alkali beds, mines, white, barren, and glittering in the sun, Althougn many and rich mines of gold with a hard, gray light, very disagree- have been discovered within her borders, able and wearying to weak eyes. Now their importance is secondary to her the road curves along the bank of the agricultural resources. The valleys of lake, crossing the low flats on a bed the Missouri,Clark's Fork of the Colum- raised several feet above the salt deposits. bia, and many other rivers, possess the The channel along the road, caused by very best of farming and grazing lands, the excavation for these fills, is filled with in quantities sufficient to support a large a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste population. In the mines enterprise and it at the first opportcnity, and you will capital will eventually develop great wish that the first opportunity had come wealth, but, here as in other mining last, or that it never had arrived. We countries where expensive machinery cross three small pile or trestle bridges, must be erected and a large capital in- the longest being 200 feet in length, and vested, before the mines can be devel- soon strike the higher broken land, oped and worked with profit, time is re- where we find quired to develope her resources; but BLUE CREEK STATION, her people are energetic and persever Elevation, 4,360 feet. ing, have full faith in the future of Leaving the station, we cross Blue their Territory, and will, in time, creek on a trestle bridge, 300 feet long and render it what they contend it really 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves is, one of the wealthiest sections of the we wind around the heads of several Union. little valleys, crossing them well against HELENA. the hill side, by heavy fills. After pass- ing some deep cutting and heavy work, This town contains about 8,000 inhab- we pass a trestle bridge at our left, 500 itants. The energy and enterprise of the feet long, and 87 feet high. This bridge Montana people cannot be better illus was built by the Union Pacific Rail- trated than by referring to the great fire road Co., who continued their track to GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 111 Promontory, but was abandoned by order of Congress and the junction of the two roads transferred to Ogden. The old track of the Union Pacific runs within a short distance of the Central Pacific all the way to Promon- tory, the former junction of the two roads. At and around this point the work is very heavy. This was one of the hardest “ camps" along the whole line of the Pacific R. R. It is said that 28 deaths by violence occurred in one month, eight men being shot one morn. ing. A stranger entered a restaurant one morning and sat down to a table occupied by two men. One of the parties helped himself to more gravy than his neighbor thought right. Drawing his six-shooter, he deliberately shot him dead at his feet. Horrified, the stranger sprang from his seat, but found himself covered by the six-shooter. “ Sit down and finish your breakfast,” said the mur- derer, and the stranger was compelled to do so, with the corpse of themurdered man lying beside him... Through more deep rock cuts and over heavy fills, we wind around Promontory Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine pufing and snorting with its arduous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads. PROMONTORY. Elevation, 4,943 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,084 miles; from Sacramento, 690. Celebrated for being the point where the connection between the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. The town was formerly composed of about 30 board and canvas buildings in. cluding several saloons and restaurants, but is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of the Promontory Mountain. The railroad company ob- tain their supply from Indian creek and other water stations along the line, by means of water cars, a train of which is run daily. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow luxuriantly. THE LAST SPIKE. On Monday, the 10th of May, 1869, a large party was congregated on Prom- ontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quar- ters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of the Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue-clad boys, with their burnished muskets and glis- tening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave earnest men, most of them, who are gathered here; men who would not leave their homes and business, and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent, only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was to witness such an event, to be present at the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enter prises, that they had gathered here. They were here to do honor to the occa- sion when 1,774 miles of railroad should be united, binding in one unbroken chain the East and the West. To witness this grand event, to be par- takers in the glorious act, this assemblage had convened. All around was excite- ment and bustle that morning; men hurrying to and fro, grasping their neighbor's hands in hearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final tri. umph of the friends of the road, over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the as- Injனர்- 3024 WA Lanka VITUD INN S ATTI le WEM TUND 27 DIHIDI YTI uldi THE EAST AND THE WEST. THE ORIENT AND THE OCCIDENT SHAKING HANDS AFTER DRIVING THE LAST SPIKE 116 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. pendicular. The width of the river at | We sweep around the brow of the hill the point of taking the last leap is about and pass 700 feet. The form of the falls is circu- LAKE, lar, somewhat like those of the Niagara. Another flag-station, eight miles west Before the river reaches the cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close of Rozel and five miles east of in around it, until but a narrow gorge MONUMENT, is left for the passage of the water 1,000 Also an unimportant station. Elevation, feet below the tops of the bluffs. The 4,290 feet. Here the lake breeze sweeps most complete view of the falls is ob- by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline tained from Lookout Point, a narrow odors peculiar to this locality and pecu- spit of rocks which projects from the liarly offensive to invalids. Monument main bluffs a short distance down the Point stretches far out into the lake-a stream from the falls. From this point slim, tapering promontory, covered with Eagle Rock rises before us, in the midst excellent grass. We shall not see much of the rapids, and almost overhanging more of the article for some time to come, the falls, fully 200 feet high; its pillar for we are fast nearing the Great Ameri- like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, can Desert; in fact we are inclined to where, year after year, the monarch of think we have been in it for some time. the air has reared its young. Near the Descending a heavy grade we sweep center of the river are several islands, around the head of the western arm of covered with cedar, the largest one be the lake, nearing and leaving its waters ing called Ballard's Island. Two rocky for the last time. points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Except- KELTON, ing in point of volume of water, the or Indian Creek station, 17 miles further falls will compare favorably with Ni west. Elevation, 4,500' feet. This is a agara. station of more importance than any From this point the river runs nearly yet passed since leaving Promontory. west until it reaches War Eagle Moun. There are large water tanks by the road tains, about 800 miles from its source, side, supplied from a spring in the foot when it turns due north, following that hills, some miles to the northward. The course for 150 miles, then bending again Red Dome Mountains show their scat- to the west it unites with Clark's river tered spurs to the north, and to the forming the Columbia. After leaving southeast, Pilot Knob or Peak can be the last falls the country is less broken, seen, lifting its rocky front far above the and the work of building the road desert. would be comparatively light for most From this station a daily line of coaches of the way. Should the Ŭ. P. R. R. leave, on arrival of the cars for Idaho Co. build this branch, as proposed, the and Oregon, and bear that title, the Ida- trade of Oregon and Idaho would be ho and Oregon Stage line. The route thrown open to the East by a much passes through Idaho and the eastern shorter route than it now possesses. part of Oregon, connecting with the We now resume our westward way, steamers of the Oregon Steam Naviga- taking up our line of travel at Promon- tion Company at Umatilla, on the Col tory, and bidding good by to its classic umbia river. Through to Boise in two shades. We are off now, and soon days; Walla Walla, four days; Port- come to land five and a half days. About 25 miles to the northward, in ROZEL, the gulches which pierce the mountains A fag-station, eight miles from Pro | in every direction, large quantities of montory. Elevation, 4,600 feet. The telegraph poles are obtained, and wood country is uninviting in appearance. | in abundance, with some good saw tim- GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 117 ber. About ten miles further in the IDAHO CITY same direction, some silver and copper | Is the second city in size in the Territo. mines have lately been discovered, which ry, and lies 36 miles northeast of Boise are reported very rich. Before leaving | City, with which it is connected with this point, we will take a glance at the stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The World newspaper is published here, BOISE COUNTRY. semi-weekly To which the line of stages spoken of convey the adventurous passengers. It SILVER CITY. lies in the southwestern portion of Idaho A straggling city, covering about 80 Territory, bordering on Oregon. Ex- acres, and containing about 2,000 inhab- tensive mines of gold have been worked itants. The buildings are granite, with there for several years, and still continue the exception of a few, which are built to attract much attention, as rich mines of wood. The Democrat, a weekly news- of gold-bearing quartz have been discov paper, is published here. ered and worked since the placer mines We will now glance at the have been partially exhausted. The principal mining country is in that por- OWYHEE MINES, tion generally designated as the Boise Which lie south of the Snake river and Basin, which comprises a scope of coun- War Eagle Mountains. This portion of try about 150 miles north and south by the mining belt of Idaho is not as exten- a length of about 200 miles. The Boise sive as the one just mentioned, and dif mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone fers from it in its ores, silver mines pre- river. The principal streams in the dominating. The principal water mining section are Boise river, Fayette courses of this section are Owyhee river, river, Wind creek, Moor's creek, and the north and south forks of the same, Salmon river. On the last named stream and the Jordan river. The principal the miners have experienced considera- towns are Ruby City, Silver City, and ble annoyance from the Indians, who Boonville. These towns are connected have been exceedingly hostile. with Boise City by stage The principal towns in this section We now return to the railroad. Leav- are Boise City, Idaho City, Esmeralda, ing Kelton, we find nothing to note un- Centerville, and Silver City. til we arrive at BOISE CITY MATLIN, Is the capital of the Territory, county | An unimportant station, 16 miles west seat of Ada county. Population, about I of Kelton, on the highlands, which 6,000. The town site was surveyed July sweep out from the Red Dome Moun- 7, 1863, and now contains about 450 tains. Elevation, 4,821 feet. There the buildings, a considerable portion of Red Dome Mountains, low sandstone which are of brick and stone. Prin- ridges, sweep nearer down toward the cipal newspaper, the Statesman, tri- track, breaking the general monotony weekly and weekly. The town is situ. of the scene. The road lies on the nor- ated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by fifty long. It is the thern border of a vast waste, whereon center of several stage routes, and also we see few signs of verdure. The sta- of trade for a large section of country. tion is about midway from east to west It is about 300 miles northwest of Salt of the Lake City, 450 miles northeast of San GREAT AMERICAN DESERT, .. Francisco, 420 miles southeast of Port Which extends over an area of about 60 land. miles square. Over this vast extent the eye wanders in vain for some green ob- 118 · GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. of ject, some evidence that, in times gone a more congenial soil. We pass the sink by, this waste supported animal life or of Goose creek, and arrive at will, eventually, in years to come. All LUCIN, is desolate in the extreme; the bare beds of alkali or wastes of gray sand alone Thirteen miles west of the last station. meet the vision, if we except now and Elevation, 4,400 feet. At this point we then, a rocky hill more barren than the find water tanks, supplied by springs in plains, if such a thing were possible. the hills at the outlet of Evideutly this desert was once the bed THOUSAND SPRING VALLEY, of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping Which lies to the north, just behind that plain sweeps off towards that body of first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the water, and, in places, bends down until Humboldt Range, but a few miles distant. its thirsty sands are laved by the briny The valley is about four miles wide, and flood. There are many evidences in not far from 60 miles long, taking in its support of the theory, that it was once windings from this point to where it covered by those waters, although much breaks over the divide into Humboldt higher than the present level of the lake. Valley. It is little better than one con- The saline matter is plainly discernible tinual bog in the center—the water from in many places, and along the red sand- the numerous brackish springs found stone buttes, which mark its northern there standing in pools over the surface. border, the long line of water wash, so There is good range or pasturage for distinctly seen at Ogden and other points cattle in the valley and hills beyond. along the lake shore, can be distinctly The old emigrant road branches off at traced, and apparently on the same or near the station, one road passing level as the bench at those places. The through the valley, the other following difference in the altitude of the road is nearly the line of the railroad, until it plainly indicated by this line, for as we reaches the Humboldt via Humboldt journey westward, and the elevation of Wells. The outlet of the valley, the plateau increases, we find that the GOOSE CREEK, water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Or, as it is sometimes called, Hot Spring For sixteen miles further we find no creek—a small stream which courses marked change to note until the valley through its entire length- sinks near by the station, rising and TERRACE STATION sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the Is reached. Elevation, 4,450 feet. The desert. company have here erected work shops SURPRISE CREEK, and a sixteen stall round-house. To the Which rises about 20 miles north, run- northward, the hills which mark the ning between the ends of the Goose entrance to the Thousand Spring Val- Creek and Humboldt Ranges, unites with ley, are plainly seen, brown, bare and the former stream a few miles north of uninviting. We pass on through the the road, but both combined do not fur- same barren looking country until we nish water enough to make more than a reach succession of pools, except in very wet BOVINE, seasons, when, it is said, their united Eleven miles to the westward. Eleva waters reach Salt Lake-which is ex- tion, 4,253 feet. But little of interest to tremely doubtful, there being many note, the face of the country remaining miles of sand between the sink and that about the same, though gradually im body of water. proving Spots of bunch grass appear We leave Utah Verritory now, for at intervals, and the sage-brush seems to we shall be in the State of Nevada be- have taken a new lease of life, indicating | fore we reach the next station. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 119 TECOMA. Ten miles west of Lucin. Elevation, 4,600 feet. An unimportant signal station. The stations, for some distance along this section of the road, possess no impor- tance independent of the necessities of the road-wood, water, and the passing of the various trains. There are no points along here where freight is left, except for local use. Passengers rarely stop at any point, unless connected with the interests of the road. No game to hunt, no streams to fish in near by- there is nothing along or near the line of this division to tempt the tourist or prospector to pause and examine the country, excepting one place, PILOT PEAK. · This remarkable landmark, which is visible at various points along the divi- sion, lies about five miles south of the road, almost opposite Tecoma station. It is a lofty pile of rocks—the eastern ter- minus of Pilot Mountains-rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half way from the base to the sum- mit, the sides are shelving piles of shat- tered rock, huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicu- lar, the summit looking like some old castle when seen at a distance, from Promontory Point, looking westward, this vast pile can be seen on a clear day, a dark mass amid the blue haze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant it was a welcome landmark, pointing his course to Humbolt Wells, or Thousand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and feed for his weary teams, after crossing the barren waste. are very fine, but will attract little atten- tion at present. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them. On the north of the road, at the base of the Goose Creek range, placer mines have been found and slightly worked, but the yield of gold was too small to render them profitable, hence their aban- donment. Leaving Tecoma, we soon arrive at MONTELLO, Nine miles to the westward. Eleva- tion 4,800 feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the in- creasing elevation. We approach nearer the long, rough ridge of the Goose Creek Range, whose sides and gulches afford pasturage and water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and though the coun- try is still uninviting it looks more ca- pable of supporting animal life, during a portion of the year. LORAY. Eight miles west of Montello. Ele- vation, 5,400 feet. An unimportant station. Eight miles beyond this point we arrive at the end of Salt Lake Divi. sion. TOANO STATION, And the commencement of Humboldt Division, which extends to Winnemen- cea, 236 miles distant. Elevation, 5,964 feet. From Omaha, 1,215 miles; from Sacramento, 559 miles. This is a regu- lar eating station. About 20 buildings of all sorts compose the town. It is 116 miles from Carlin, and is centrally located as regards many mining districts in eastern Nevada, and will, doubtless, be the diverging point from the rail- road, for the following districts, viz.: Egan Canon, Kinsley, Kern, Patterson, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek-all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is now in operation from this place to Egan Canon, a distance of 90 miles south, and will soon be ex- tended to Ely District, 225 miles, where MINES. On the other extremity of the moun- tain, twelve . miles from the Peak, veins of silver and copper ore were discovered by Joseph H. Roberts, in June 1869. The silver ore prospects well, is-argen- tiferous galena, and from general indi- cations the discoverer feels assured of ; the existence of extensive and valuable : mines in the mountain. The copper ores tum LUNUM ALL BLU MUA IND Mule Team, loaded with Boilers and Machinery, weighing 54,000 pounds, en route from Elko to White Pine. 124 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. the lake, the volume of water is much geon U. S. A., Post Surgeon. The gar- less than it is 100 miles above, owing to rison consists of company H, 8th Cav., the aridity of the soil through which it and company I, 12th Infantry. At the passes. Of the valleys bordering it, we time of writing, an order is issued to shall speak separately, as each division exchange the 8th Cavalry with the 3d is totally distinct in its general features. Cavalry, now in New Mexico, but the The “öld emigrant road” can be dis precise distribution of the companies tinctly traced along the river from its we are unable to learn before going to head to its source. press with our book. At the foot of We now commence our journey down The mountain, about twelve miles dis- the stream, beginning at tant from the station, can be seen some TULASCO, settlers' buildings, which are situated on the road to the post. The military A signal station, seven miles west of post is hid from view by the intervening the Wells. Elevation, 5,418 feet. Pass hills. It is situated on an elevated pla- ing on, we enter and cross teau, which lies partially behind the BISHOP'S VALLEY, first range, debouching thence in a long upland, which extends some distance Which unites with the main valley of down the river. The valleys which lie the Humboldt near this point; is about among the hills, as well as this upland, 60 miles long, with an average width of are settled, and have proved very pro- five milcs, well-watered and very fertile. ductive. Wheat, barley and vegetables BISHOP'S CREEK, are extensively cultivated, and a ready Which winds through the valley, is a market is found along the railroad for narrow, deep stream, abounding in the surplus crop. many varieties of fish, among which Leaving Halleck, we continue down are trout of an excellent quality. It the valley four miles, when we arrive at rises about 70 miles to the northeast, in PEко, a spur of the Humboldt Mountains, near Humboldt canyon. The hills This station has nothing of interest from which it rises are well-wooded, attached to it. Elevation, 5,221 feet. and abound in deer, bear, and smaller Just after leaving the station we cross game. Crossing the creek on a Howe the truss bridge, we pass on some six miles NORTH FORK and come to the upper crossing of the Of the Humboldt on a Howe truss bridge. Humboldt river, over a Howe truss This river, where it unites with the bridge, and soon we arrive at main stream, is about of equal size, per- DEETH, haps larger. It rises about 100 miles to Thirteen miles west of Tulasco, a wood the north and receives as tributaries station. Elevation, 5,367 feet. We many small creeks and rivulets. The pass on down the valley for twelve main stream is well stocked with vari- miles, when we reach ous kinds of fish; and in the tributaries, trout of a fine quality are found in HALLECK, abundance. Elevation, 5,220 feet. A freight station. THE VALLEY At this point Government stores are Is from left for five to seven miles wide and covered with a heavy growth of grass. FORT HALLECK, The quality of the soil is similar to that A military station on the opposite side of the main valley, and, like that, is sus- of the river. Brevet Brig.-Gen. J. I. | ceptible of a high state of cultivation. Gregg, Colonel 8th Cavalry, command Wheat, barley, and vegetables of al ing post; R. M. O'Reilly, Assistant Sur- / Winds would yield handsome returns. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 125 The seasons are long enough, and the mountains among which we are wind- absence of early and late frosts would ing in and out, seemingly, in an endless secure a matured crop. Around the labyrinth. Now we wind around a high head of this valley are many smaller point, the rail lying close to the river's ones, each tributary stream having its brink, and next we cross a little valley own separate body of valley land. Some with the river washing against the op. are perfect gems, nestled among the posite bluffs, half a mile away. A dense hills and almost surrounded by timber. mass of willow covers the bottom lands, Here game in abundance is found, quail, through which the river wanders as grouse, hare, deer and bear, and, some though it had neither the desire or abil- times a “mountain lion.” The tourist, ity to escape from its imprisonment. angler and hunter will find enough to Now we pass the outlet of the South occupy them pleasantly for a short stay Fork of the Humboldt, and winding should they choose to visit this region. around another rocky point we emerge The main and smaller valleys are un. into a wider, straighter portion of the settled and unclaimed, excepting that canyon, with now and then a strip of portion owned by the railroad company. green valley land on either side. One remark more, which will apply Before we proceed farther, we will to all the valleys named. As a range take a look at for stock they have no superier west of THE SOUTH FORK the Rocky Mountains. The winters are mild, snow rarely falling sufficiently Of the Humboldt. This stream rises deep to render it necessary to feed the about 100 miles to the southeast. It stock. Wild cattle are found in the canyons through Ruby Mountains, and valleys and among the hills, which have then follows down the eastern side of never received any attention or care. one of the numerous ranges, which, If stock-raisers would turn their atten. under the general name of the Hum- tion to this locality they would find a boldt Mountains, intersect the country. large field open to a remunerative enter- THE VALLEY. prise. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the For portions of the distance, there is mountain sides produce the bunch grass | fine valley land along the stream, rang- in profusion. Wherever the sage-brush | ing from one to seven miles wide. grows rank, on the hill sides, the bunch Taken as a body, it is inferior to either grass thrives equally as well. the main or the North Fork valleys, still We will now return to Peko, and much good grazing land can be ob- continue down the valley of the main tained, as well as land adapted to cul- stream. Ten miles beyond the last sta tivation. tion we arrive at We now resume our journey, and fol- low down Osino canyon for a few miles OSINO, farther, when suddenly we emerge into A signal station at the head of a beautiful valley, across which we speed OSINO CANYON. -the road curving around to the right —and soon the intervening distance Here the valley suddenly ends. The is passed, and the long train stops at northern range of the mountains sweep- ELKO. ing down to the river bank, which now assumes a tortuous course, seeming to | Elevation, 5,030 feet. From Omaha, double back on itself in places, com | 1,306 miles; from Sacramento, 468. At pletely bewildering the traveler. Across present this town occupies a prominent the river, the high peaks of the oppo. | place, more so than any station on the site chain rise clear and bold from the Central east of Sacramento, which is valley, contrasting strongly with the | owing to the White Pine trade and travel. black, broken masses of shattered | The town formerly consisted of wood 126 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. and canvas houses—though the latter quiet.” “You made friends with them, class is rapidly being replaced by some- didn't you?” “Made friends! Why thing more substantial. It has a two yes; we made friends with them. We storey brick court-house, 40x70 feet, a made them such large presents of lead, brick school-house, 25x65 feet, with that they could not pack it away, and it modern improvements, and 90 scholars has kept them busy watching their in attendance. The great difficulty in treasures ever since. That, sir, is the obtaining lumber, and the extremely only way to make friends with these high price of that article when delivered, varmints. One part of a band will be from $50 to $100 per thousand, has talking peace with you, while the re- been of serious detriment to the towns mainder will run off your stock; then along the road, compelling them to when they have you at their mercy, build in many instances, of very perish your friendly part of the gang will lift able and unsightly materials. your scalps. Oh yes! I believe in the The town contains about 3,000 inhabi friendship of the Indians—I do!" and he tants. The railroad company has a very turned away to give directions to his fine depot here, and three large freight agent. houses—the largest along the line. The town presents a very active, busi- HOTELS AND STAGE LINES. ness-like appearance, strongly remind- There are several hotels and restau- ing one of the flourishing mining towns in the early times of California. Occa- rants in Elko, chief of which is the Cos- mopolitan Hotel, before which cars stop sionally we see a long train of mules “ packed" with huge loads of merchan- for 30 minutes--this being a regular dise for mining regions where freight eating station. Wells, Fargo & Co., Len Wines Co., cannot be conveyed on wagons. The amount of freight reshipped at this and Woodruf & Ennor, each run a point-the total value of goods sold here daily line of coaches to Hamilton, White by the leading houses, during a day or Pine, 126 miles distant, and Hill Beachy runs a daily line to Mountain City in week-would astonish the denizens of many older and better regulated towns. Cope district. The appearance of the main streets of HILL BEACHY. Elko reminds us of the early days of At this point we met with the old Sacramento, when the “prairie schoo- ner" was the only means of transporting stage pioneer of the West, though he is heavy freight to the mines. (See Illus- not an old man by any means. He looks every inch the pioneer and rambling, tration.] restless, Western stage man. The In- THE ELKO INDEPENDENT, dians, among whom he has been running | A daily and weekly Democratic journal, his stages for years, call him “bad medi is published here by Street & Perkins. cine,” and keep out of his way most of WARM SPRINGS. the time. We asked of Mr. Beachy, what State he claimed as his home. Near town, are the warm springs, “Well,” said he, “I don't know. You which are now attracting much atten- see, I was born in Pennsylvania, and tion. A hack plies between the hotel when I was ten years old I ran away and and the springs, making regular trips went to Ohio, and since then I have not | for the accommodation of visitors. The lived anywhere. I have been on this medicinal qualities of the water is coast as long as any of them, so I sup- highly spoken of. pose I belong here." . “You established MINES AROUND ELKO. stage lines through this section when Valuable silver mines exist in Cope you had troublesome times with the In District, about eighty miles due north dians, did you not ?” “O yes. We had of Elko. From the mines to Silver City, to fight our way at first; now they are Idaho Territory, is about 70 miles. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 127 It lies north of the headwaters of the | country, which now is attracting such North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering | general attention. The district lies due on the Owybee country. The section south of Elko, distant about 125 miles is well-watered by rapid mountain by one route, 130 by the other. It is streams, abounding in trout. The pros | nearly due east of Virginia City and pectors located several mill-sites near Gold Hill, where the first silver-mining The mines, expecting to occupy them excitement occurred on the Pacific slope, with mining mills at no very distant and by many is supposed to be on the period, and two quartz mills are already same range which produced the Com- in active operation. The rock from stock and other famous lodes. Possibly several lodes was packed on mules to such is the case, though “ranges" have Elko by the first prospectors, and from becn terribly shaken about in this sec- thence it was sent to San Francisco, tion of our commonwealth. Among the and worked in a Hepworth pan, yield- chief mines located and worked around ing at the rate of from $300 to $1,000 | Hamilton and Treasure City, are the per ton. The results of this test had Eberhardt, California, Hidden Treasure, the effect to start more prospectors in Lady Bryan, Chloride Flat Co.'s mines, that direction, and to insure the thor Silver Star, Yellow Jacket, and many ough prospecting and development of others. the mines already discovered, which Several miles are in active operation, now yield very rich and bid fair to and more are being put up or on their prove exceedingly remunerative. way thither. Water and wood are Other mines have been discovered scarce, the former especially so, the and are now successfully worked. chief supply being obtained from wells. There are other mineral-bearing dis The altitude of the country renders it tricts which must necessarily become very unpleasant to new-comers, espe- tributary to Elko. The Ruby Range cially if their lungs are weak. and the range bordering the South Fork The Eberhardt mine, which first at- of the Humboldt possess mineral, and tracted attention to this locality, was in several places good prospects have discovered in '66, but the great stam- been obtained, and promising lodes lo- | pede of miners and speculators to that cated. It is evident that a large and | quarter did not take place until the rich mining section will be opened up | winter and spring of '69. As far as ere long, of which Elko will remain the prospected, the veins, in a majority of central point. cases, are not regular, being broken and THE VALLEY turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a regular angle and Of the Humboldt, from the mouth of have solid walls. The Base Metal Osino canyon to the head of Five Mile | Range in this vicinity is attracting con- canyon, cannot be ranked as among the siderable attention at this time, and best of the Humboldt bottom lands, large numbers of smelting furnaces though it is susceptible of cultivation are being erected to reduce the ores into to a considerable degree. But a narrow base bullion for shipment. strip is meadow, the remainder being About four hundred people were at higher, gravelly land, covered with work in this district in February, '69, sage-brush and bunch grass. Without and now the population is estimated at irrigation it is useless for agricultural 25,000. To give any correct idea of the purposes. magnitude of the mines or the appear- This place being the principal point | ance of the country, is out of the ques- where freight and passengers leave the tion. cars for TREASURE HILL, WHITE PINE, | On which stands Treasure City, is ap- We will take a hasty look at that famous parently one mass of ore, judging from .130 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. tering the canyon, we pass several iso excellent trout fishing, and game of lated towers of conglomerate rock, various kinds abound on the hills bor- towering to the heighth of nearly 200 dering the valley. feet. Leaving this canyon, we find CARLIN. SUSAN VALLEY, Eleven miles west from Moleen. El- evation, 4,93) feet. Distance from Another strip of good farming land, Omaha, 1,330 miles; from Sacramento, about 20 miles long by four wide, bor: 444 miles. The town is composed of dering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. adobe, wood and canvas buildings and Among the foot-hills of the Owyhee contains about 900 inhabitants. It has Range are many beautiful, fertile val- | several hotels and eating-houses, chief leys, well watered by mountain streams, of which is the Railroad House, before waiting only the advent of the settler to which the trains stop. Road completed transform them into productive farms. to this point, Dec. 20th, 1868. The com- Timber is plenty in the ravines and on pany have located the offices of Hum. the hill-sides, sufficient for the wants of boldt Division here. Also, a large population. Passing down the valley, dotted with DIVISION WORKSHOPS the hamlets of the rancher, for about At this place. They are built of wood nine miles, we come opposite the South and consist of a round-house, machine, Fork of the Humboldt, and three miles car and blacksmith shop. The round- we arrive at house has 16 stalls. The machine shop MOLEEN, is 82 by 130, car shop, 60 by 140, and blacksmith shop 40 by 69 feet. An unimportant side-track, 12 miles The surrounding country is bounti- from Elko. Elevation, 5,000 feet. Leave fully supplied with wood and water, ing Moleen, we find the valley widening and connected with Carlin by a good and with a changed appearance. The wagon road of easy grade. meadow lands are broad and green, ex- LINES OF TRAVEL tending over most of the valley. A finer body of land than the valley be- A line of six-horse stages has been es- tween Five Mile Canyon and the Pali tablished by Messrs. Payne and Palmer, sade will not be met with until the head running to Railroad District, Mineral waters of the Truckee are reached. Hill and Eureka, connecting there with Passing on, we cross stages for Hamilton and Austin, The route crosses the river about one mile MAGGIE'S CREEK, west of Carlin, upon a good substantial Which empties into the Humboldt about bridge, and through a natural pass into one mile above Carlin. This stream is PINE VALLEY; is favorably located, not named for a beautiful Scotch girl, whose only on account of the absence of low, parents stayed here for a time, while alkali soil, but on account of the abund- · recruiting their stock," in the old ance of grass and water found along times when the early emigrants toiled the route. up the river. It rises in the Owyhee This valley is about 40 miles long by Mountains, about 80 miles to the north seven wide; is good agricultural land, ward. well-watered by Pine creek, a never The valley through which the stream | failing stream, which traverses its en. flows is from three to five miles wide tire length. Along this stream, and on and very fertile. It extends to the base the surrounding hills, vast quantities of of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is wood are obtained for the use of the unsettled. Judge Prescott has surveyed road. and located a toll road, via this valley Proceeding up the valley 30 miles, at to Idaho Territory. The stream affords the first station, the road crosses Sul- ANO Donner Lake. --Boating Party. See page 158, 132 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. phur Range, by Berry's Pass, a low | road District, the last organized, is only break in the hills, and about 10 miles about 15 miles south of Carlin, and beyond the first station, the road enters abounds in rich and extensive veins of silver, copper and galena ores, as well DIAMOND VALLEY. as of iron. One smelting furnace is This valley is about 40 miles in length. nearly completed, and arrangements Its greatest width is about 10 miles. It have been made to erect others in the is watered by numerous mountain district as soon as possible. There are springs, but has no running streams, extensive veins which are rich in ga- and affords excellent grazing. The lena and silver, and parties who are road runs diagonally across the valley best informed upon the subject, are until it reaches the base of Diamond sanguine that the yield of base bullion, Range, at Treffern's station, on the old from this district, the coming season, stage road from Austin to Hamilton. will be very large. Mineral Hill Dis- Thence the road proceeds up Simpson's trict, 40 miles south of Carlin, was dis- creek, crossing Diamond Range, and covered last July, since which time con- follows down Pinto creek, enters Gill siderable quantities of ore have been son's valley at Pinto station; thence by sent to Austin and other points for re- the Pancake road to Hamilton. duction, yielding from $300 to $600 per The road from here north, up the ton in silver. Arrangements are nearly valley of Maggie's creek, is now open, completed for the erection of two quartz and arrangements are completed for the mills in this district, early this spring. establishment of a line of stages from The village of Mineral Hill now con- this place to Independence Valley, Bull tains nearly 500 inhabitants, with hotels, Run and Cope, extending on to Idaho. express offices, assay office, &c. This will make those promising mining While such developments and indus localities easy of access from the rail. try have been visible south of here, the road; and there has already, quite a rich mineral country lying north, and quantity of lumber and other material extending to the waters of the Owyhee for working the placer “diggings,” in has not been entirely neglected, and has Independence Valley, gone forward this rewarded the labors of the sturdy season. “prospector” by the discoveries of rich placer gold mines, and veins of rich sil- MINES. ver ores. The placer gold mines, of Carlin claims her share in the trade Independence valley, are some 60 miles of the Goose Creek Mining District, north of here, while the silver mining which will be reached by the toll-road districts of Bull Run and Cope are from up Maggie's creek, before mentioned. 75 to 80 miles distapt. These districts By the White Pine road the mines of are already attracting the attention of Sulphur Range, Ruby Range and Dia | experienced miners and capitalists, and mond Range are brought in close con will, no doubt, richly reward judicious nection with the town. The White investments in, and practical working Pine District will also be open to trade, of, them, the coming season. which will give this place an equal standing with Elko, in point of freight MARY'S CREEK. and travel, to and from these mines. This is a little creek which rises three Several new mining districts have miles north of Carlin, entering the Hum. been organized south of here, the past season, among which are the Eureka, bolt river at that point. It rises in a Spring Valley, Newark, Mineral“ Hill beautiful lakelet, nestled among the and Railroad Districts; some of which, hills and bordered by a narrow slip of in extent and richness, bid fair to sur- fine valley land. The valley of the pass even those of White Pine. Rail. | its head-waters, is occupied by settlers. stream, and that portion surrounding GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 133 Leaving Carlin, we proceed down the | doubt wondering about the great mon- river, the green meadows continuing ster rushing past, and after he has dis- fair and wide, until we arrive at appeared, gossiping among themselves PALISADE, of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now, we A flag station, nine miles below. Ele- pass “ Maggie's Bower," a brown arch vation, 4,870 feet. Now, the sloping on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet hills give place to lofty mountains, from its base. We could not see much which close in on either hand, shutting bower, unless it was the left bower, for out the valley. From the appearance we left it behind us. But we thought of this mountain range, one would sup. | we should pity Maggie if she had to sit pose that it had extended across the in that bower and wait for lovers. One valley at one time, forming a vast lake 1 of the most noted points in the canyon of the waters of the river. Then some is on the opposite side of the river, and mighty convulsion of nature rent the is called the solid wall asunder, forming a passage DEVIL'S PEAK. for the waters which wash the base of This is a perpendicular rock, probably cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,500 feet 1,500 feet high, rising from the water's high. This place is generally known as edge. In a cleft on the topmost peak are HUMBOLDT CANYON. the remains of a gigantic bird's nest. What sort of birds made their eyrie here, See illustrations.) The Palisades, or we do not pretend to know. From ap- the Twelve Mile Canyon. Although it pearances, they belonged to an extinct does not possess similar points of inter- species, or possibly to the condor family. est with Echo and Weber canyons, yet the nest looks to be four or five feet in many particulars the scenery is equally across, built of brush-some of the sticks, grand. The absence of varied coloring being quite large. Let us suppose that may be urged against its claims to equa- it forms a connecting link between the lity with those places, but on the other misty past and the busy present, and hand its bleak, bare, brown walls, pos- speculate on the age when gigantic birds sess a majesty and gloomy grandeur, existed; When the clear waters of the which coloring could not improve. In Humboldt were but filthy ooze; when passing down this canyon, we seem to the monsters of the early days held high be passing between two walls, which carnival along the boiling slimy Hum- threaten to close together ere we shall boldt river. Then the monster birds sat gain the outlet. The river rolls at our in their eyrie, and pounced down upon feet, a rapid, boiling current, tossed some unlucky dozen-legged monster from side to side of the gorge by the | with a head just three times the length rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts of its boneless body, and after depositing to break away its prison walls. The its unwieldy carcass on the rocks by walls in places have crumbled, and large their nest, feasted on it at their leisure. masses of crushed rocks slope down to We may suppose all this, though these the river brink. Seams of iron ore and unsightly creatures which learned men copper-bearing rock break the monotony tell of have passed away, and neither the of color, showing the existence of large railroad or the missionaries had aught to deposits of these minerals among these do with their leaving. brown old mountains. Now we pass While we have been speculating, the “Red Cliff,” which rears its battered cars have been rushing down the stream, frontlet, 1,000 feet above the water. A passing the towering bluffs and castel- colony of swallows have taken posses lated rocks, which at first view look like sion of the rock, and built their curious some old brown castle, forsaken by its nests upon its face, From out their mud founders, and left to ruin, desolation and palaces they look down upon us, no decay. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 135 they found the lone grave and the fast hill-side, desolating everything in its decaying head-board. The sight awoke course, its waters escaping through the the finer feelings of their nature and bogs of the valley we are now crossing. aroused their sympathies, for they were From this line, around the hill-side, es- men, these brown, toil-stained laborers. capes at intervals, columns of steam and, The “culvert men” (masons) con at times, of boiling muddy water, which cluded that it was not consistent with flows down the hill-side causing that Christian usage to leave a grave exposed reddish waste you see yonder. At times and undefended from the incursion of all is quiet; then come little puffs of beasts of prey. With such men to steam, then long and frequent jets, which think was to act, and in a few days the often shoot 30 feet high. And, oh! aint lone grave was enclosed with a solid the water hot? Woe to the unlucky wall and a cross-the sacred emblem of hombre who kneels down to quench immortality-took the place of the old his thirst at one of these quiet, harmless- head-board. In the day when the final looking springs. Phew, the skin of his reckoning between these men and the mouth is gone, and oh, what a vast recording angel is adjusted, we think amount of energetic language is hurled that they will find a credit for that deed at the smiling, placid spring, which sud- which will offset many little debit in denly resents the idea of being damned, the ledger of good and evil. Perhaps a | and to show the utter absurdity of the fair spirit above may smile a blessing attempt suddenly sends a column of on their lives in recompense of the no spray, steam and muddy sulphur water ble deed. Bare the head reverently in 20 or 30 feet into the air, and all is still passing this grave-not alone in honor again. There are about 100 of these of her who is buried here, but also in bubbling curiosities around the hill, honor of that higher spirit of humanity their united waters forming quite a which recognizes in a stranger's grave brook, which wanders among the bogs an object too sacred to be passed lightly and fens of the valley until it reaches by, and pays to it the tribute of respect the river some five miles away. due the last resting-place of the dead. Across the river to the northward can Leaving Gravelly Ford, we proceed be seen the long, unbroken slopes which down the river, crossing narrow patches stretch away until they are lost in that of meadow land winding around the cold blue line—the Idaho Mountains, base of the low hills, untill we reach a which rise against the northern sky. broader valley, across which the road Behind that gray old peak, which is runs on an embankment. The valley is barely discernible, the head-waters of green and inviting and the culverts in the North Fork of the Humboldt break the road.bed are evidences that there is away when starting on its journey for plenty of water in it at times. It is called the main river. Farther to the left, and Hot Spring Valley, and is about six nearer, from among that darker clump miles long by one broad. It lies about of hills, Maggie's creek finds its source. four miles below Cluro, and extends While looking at these scenes, we have southeastward. Now, if we look up passed through Copper canyon, and ar- this valley, we perhaps behold a col- riven at umn of steam which indicates the pres. ence of the celebrated BE-O-WA-WE, HOT SPRINGS. Eight miles west of Cluro. Elevation, If you do not behold the steam, and 4,717 feet. The Cortes mines and mills the springs are not always in active op are situated about 35 miles south of this eration, you will behold a long yellow station, with which they are connected ish, red line, stretching for a full half | by a good road. At this point, the Red mile around a barren hill-side. From Range throws a spur nearly across the this line the sulphuric wash descends the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as 136 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. though the spur extended clear across at undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot one time, damming up the waters of the penetrate this swampy, treacherous fast- river, as at the Palisades. The water. ness. Every morning the old birds can wash far up the hill side is in evidence be seen taking their fight to Humboldt of the theory that such was once the Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they case, and that the waters cut this narrow load themselves with fish, returning to- gorge, through which they speed along, wards night, to feed their young and se- unmindful of the mighty work done in crete themselves in their hiding places. former years, when the resistless current Passing along by these willow islands “ forced a highway to the sea,” and and slips of meadow, we find ourselves drained a mighty lake-leaving in its at place green meadows. SHOSHONE, Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing Ten miles west of Be-o-wa-we. Eleva. line between the Shoshones and the Pi- ' tion. 4.665 feet On our right is a lon utes, two tribes of Indians, who seemed bold mountain, which -rises up clear and to be created for the express purpose of sharp from the river's brink. It seems worrying emigrants, stealing stock, eat. near, but between us and its southern. ing grasshoppers, and preying on them base is a wide bottom land and the river, selves and everybody else. The Shosho which here really“ spreads itself.” Wé nes are very degraded Indians, and like saw the same point when emerging from the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old, their Be-o-wa-we, or “the gate,” and it will hand is against every man, and every continue in sight for many miles. It is man's hand is (or ought to be) against known as them. At this point, nature has so for- BATTLE MOUNTAIN. tified the entrance of the valley, that a handful of determined rangers could It is so called from an Indian fight, hold the entrance against any force the which took place in this part of the sayages could bring against them. The country some years ago, but not on this term Be-o-wa-we signifies gate, and it is mountain of which we are speaking. literal in its significance. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same general name. This Leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through range, being the most prominent, de- the gate, and winding along by the hill- serves a passing notice. It lies north of side, we cross å fill over the low the river, between the Owyhee Range meadows, which here are very narrow. on the north and the Reese River Moun. In places the short elbows of the tor- tains on the south. Its base is washed tuous stream wash the rock-fills and by the river its entire length, from 50 to slopes on which rests the road bed. The 75 miles. It presents an almost un- “bottom” is broad, but is covered with broken surface and even altitude the en- willows, with the exception of the nar- tire distance. In places it rises in bold row meadows spoken of. Amid these bluffs, in others it slopes away from willows, the stream winds and twists base to summit, but in each case the about, through innumerable sloughs and same altitude is reached. It is about creeks, as though undecided whether to 1,500 feet high, the top or summit ap- leave this shady retreat for the barren pearing to be table-land. Silver and plains below. Perhaps the traveler will copper mines have been prospected with see a flock of pelicans disporting in the good results. waters on their return from their daily Behind this range are wide valleys, fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. which slope away to the river at either These birds, at certain seasons of the end of the range, leaving it compara- year, are to be found here and along the river for about 20 miles below, in great tively isolated. numbers. They build their nests in ROCK CREEK. these willow islands and rear their young | Opposite of Shoshone Point, Rock GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 137 creek empties its waters into the Hum- | the other, the whole comprising one of boldt. It rises about 40 miles to the the richest farming sections in the State. : northward and is bordeded by a beauti Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated ful valley about four miles wide. The in the head of the valley, and other : stream is well stocked with fish, among . small towns have sprung up at other : which are the mountain trout. In the points. The settlers have two grist and country around the head waters of the several saw mills on stream is found plenty of game of vari- PARADISE CREEK, ous kinds, including deer and bear, A clear, cold mountain stream, which COPPER. rises in the Owyhee mountains and Copper mines of vast size and great flows through the valleys to the Hum. richness are found in the valley of Rock boldt. Salmon trout of enormous size creek, and among the adjoining hills. are found in the stream and its tributa- Whenever the copper interest becomes ries. Bear, deer, silver-gray foxes, and of sufficient importance to warrant the other game abound on the hills which! opening of these mines, this section will border the valley, prove one of great importance. FREIGHTING. Leaving Shoshone we pursue our From Argenta to Paradise and Eden way down the river, the road leading valleys, a considerable freight is taken back from the meadow land and passing by ox-teams, also to the Owyhee coun- along an upland, covered with sage- try. The road crosses the drives by a brush. The hills on our left are smooth ford near town, and after leaving the and covered with a good coat of bunch valley, follows a spur of the mountains grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, summer and winter. There until the summit is obtained. are springs of good water in the can THE COPPER AND GALENA MINES yons, where is also obtained consider Of the Battle Mountain Mining District able wood, pine and cedar. Now we are extensive and rich. They have al- find broad meadows again, and here ready attracted the attention of capital- we see the huge hay-stacks and piles of ists, and an English company have pur- baled hay, awaiting transportation. We chased several copper claims, and are pass by them and the cars stop at engaged in opening and working them, ARGENTA, shipping their ore to Swansea, England, Eleven miles west of Shoshone. Eleva- via San Francisco. Large quantities of tion, 4,575 feet. This was formerly a copper, galena and silver ores are being regular eating station and the distribu- shipped from the mines in this district ting point for Austin and the Reese to San Francisco for reduction or sale, River country, now only a signal sta- resulting in profit to those engaged in tion. There are not many buildings the business. around the station at present, though FIRE-BRICK. there is plenty of room for them. Large beds of clay, of which excellent PARADISE VALLEY, fire brick can be made,are found in many Lies on the north side of the river, nearly places here. Nearly every cut through opposite this station. It is about 60 the gravel points shows large deposits miles long by eight wide, very fertile of it. and thickly settled. Leaving Argenta, we proceed down the valley, keeping upon the sage land. EDEN VALLEY, The river course is marked by green The northern division of Paradise yal meadows, fringed with willows, and ley, is about twenty miles long and five occasionally the house of a settler can wide. In general features it resembles | be seen on its banks. Clumps of wild FASEL Great American Canyon. See page 165. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 141 Dun Glen Ranges, has two mills in operation, and more in course of con. struction. GRASS VALLEY, From which the district derives its name, is about five miles wide, and extends from the opening of Reese river to Homboldt Lake, some 50 miles to the westward. The hills near the station are separated from the main range by this valley, leaving them isolated, Grass Valley bordering their southern and eastern sides, while the main valley of the Humboldt encircles their northern and western base. In the upper end of Grass Valley are several hot springs, strongly impreg- nated with sulpher and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity. On leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains, leaving the river far to our right. We are now in the widest part of the valley, about opposite the BIG BEND OF THE HUMBOLDT. After passing the Palisades, the river iuclines to the south for about 30 miles, when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further, then turning nearly due south, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for three-fourths of the circumference. This vast era of land, or most of it- comprising many thousand acres of level upland, bordered by green mea- dows-is susceptible of cultivation when irrigated. The sage-brush grows lux- uriantly, and where the alkali beds do not appear, the soil produces a good crop of bunch grass. The road takes the short side of the semi-circle, keep- ing close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spir. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Moun- tain Range, are several valleys watered by the mountain streams, and affording a large area of first-class farming land. Chief among these is QUINN'S VALLEY, Watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a fine body of valley land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass or veget- ables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of various qualities-spruce and pine predominat- ing—is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. Game of different kinds is abundant. The Indians claim this country and would doubtless worry small parties of settlers. QUINN'S RIVER, Which flows through this valley, is a large stream, rising in the St. Rosa hills of the Owyhee Range about 150 miles distant. From its source, the general course of the river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west, until it reaches Mud Lake. During the summer, but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being ab- sorbed by the barren plain which lies between the foot-hills and the Hum- boldt river. Near the head waters of Quinn's river, the CROOKED CREEK, Or Antelope, rises and flows due north for about 50 miles when it empties its waters into the Owyhee river. The head waters of the streams wbich run from the southern slope of the Owyhee mountains are well supplied with sal- mon, trout, and other varieties of fish; quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Near the settlements, the Indians are friendly, but the hunter and prospector must watch them as soon as he leaves the protection of the towns. Leaving Battle Mountain station, we pass along over the sage brush plateau for 14 miles without finding much of interest. The hills present the same general appearance on our left, while the opposite side of the valley is still marked by the hills which encircle the outer arc of the Big Bend. Whim TO Hilul UNITATII M JUTTU VW att Garte meter sidde mm Constructing Snow Sheds, Sierra Nevada Mountains, O. P. R. R. See page 164. 148 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. lower end of the lake is an island- full until they reach the main river. long narrow strip of land-which ex The sun is so powerful on these lava tends up the lake and near the northern plains in summer that the water evap- shore. Before the dam was put in the orates as soon as it escapes from the outlet, this island was part of the main cooling shadows of the hills. By actual land. There are several varieties of experiment, it has been demonstrated fish in the lake, and an abundance of that at Carson and Humboldt Lakes the water-fowl during portions of the year. evaporation of water is equal, in the Leaving Brown's station, we pass summer, to six inches every 24 hours. along the shore of the lake for a few In the winter when the atmosphere is miles when an intervening sand ridge more humid, evaporation is less, conse- hides it from our sight. After passing 1 quently the waters spread over a larger this ridge, and when about eight miles area. west of Brown's station, we obtain a CARSON RIVER, fine view of the Which gives its name to the lake, rises BINK OF CARSON LAKE, in the eastern slope of the Sierra Ne- A small body of water lying a few miles vada Mountains, south of Lake Taboe north of the main Carson Lake, and and opposite the head waters of the connected with that and the Humboldt | American river. From its source to its during the wet season. mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the river's course. From its source its CARSON LAKE course is about due north for about 75 Lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, miles, when it turns to the east, and fol. and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a lows that direction until it enters the width of ten miles. In the winter, its lake. waters cover considerable more area, CARSON VALLEY. the Sink and lake being one. Under the general name of Carson The Carson river empties into the | Valley the land bordering the river has southern end of the lake, discharging a long been celebrated as being one of large volume of water. What becomes the best farming sections in the State. of the vast body of water continually The thriving towns of Carson City and pouring into Humboldt and Carson Genoa are situated in the valley, though Lakes, is a question which has been that portion around Carson City is often asked, and as often answered dif- | frequently designated as Eagle valley. ferently Many claim the existence of The upper portion, from Carson to the underground channels, and terrible sto. foot-hills, is very fertile and yields hand- ries are told of unfortunate people who some crops of vegetables, though irri- have been drawn down and disappeared gation is necessary to insure a good forever. These stories must be taken yield. In some portions the small grains with much allowance. If under-ground are successfully cultivated, and on the channels exist, how happens it that the low lands an abundant crop of grass is lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in produced. The valley is thickly settled, low water, are united during the winter The arable land being mostly occupied. floods? And how is it, that when the South and west of the head waters of waters have subsided from these alka- Carson river, the head waters of line plains, that no opening for these channels are visible? The only rational WALKER'S RIVER theory for the escape of the water is by | Find their souree. The West Fork of evaporation. Examine each little stream Walker river rises within a few miles bed that you meet with; you find no l of the eastern branches of the Carson. water there in the summer, nor sink | The East Fork of Walker's river runs holes, yet in the winter their beds are I due north until joined by the West 150 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. located in its centre, and the great basin COMPANY'S SHOPS. being low and weak in the crust, af- The division work-shops are located forded the easiest means of escape for | here, and consist of a round-house, car, the steam and hot water necessary to machine and blacksmith shops. The drive the machinery. round house has 20 stalls, and the other We find no change to note, unless it be shops are of proportionate size. They that the beds of alkali are occasionally in- furnish employment for about 200 men termixed with brown patches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage- TRADE OF WADSWORTH. brush occasionally breaks the monotony Freight is re-shipped at this point for of the scene. It is worthy of notice Austin, Fort Churchill, and a large that this hardy shrub is never found scope of country south; also, for the growing singly and alone. The reason mines at Unionville and Dun Glen. for it is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It MINES NEAR WADSWORTH. must have help ; consequently we find Pine Grove Copper mines lie six miles it in clumps, for mutual aid and protec south of the town. They attract little tion. We now arrive at attention, that mineral not being much DESERT, sought after. Ten miles south are the Ten miles west of Hot Springs. Eleva- Desert Mines, which consist of gold- tion, 4,045 feet. We will not tarry here, bearing quartz lodes. Some of the mines there are considered very rich. The but pass on as rapidly as possible. We Rye Patch, Dun Glen and Unionville find the ground more broken as we pro- ceed, lava ridges and deep gullies ap- Mines are also claimed as tributaries of Wadsworth. pearing at intervals. The gullies have been worn away through the hard crust We leave the town and pursue our (we cannot call it soil) until their smooth way, crossing the fine Howe truss bridge dry beds are several feet below the sur- which spans the face of the desert. The culverts put in TRUCKEE RIVER. the road-bed at these places indicate This stream rises in Lakes Tahoe and that at times there is water in them, Donner, which lie at the eastern base though now they are devoid of mois. of the Sierras, about 80 miles distant. ture. Seven miles of Desert, we pass From its source in Lake Tahoe, the TWO MILE STATION, main branch runs north for about twelve Elevation, 4,090 feet. We pass on miles, when, near Truckee City, it two miles further, down a heavy grade, unites with Little Truckee, the outlet of Donner Lake, and turns to the east and stop at following that course until it reaches WADSWORTH, the Big Bend, thence north for about Elevation, 4,104 feet. Distance from 25 miles, when it discharges its waters Omaha, 1,587 miles; from Sacramento, into Pyramid Lake. 189 miles. The town is situated about one mile east of Truckee river, and on the TRUCKEE VALLEY. western border of the desert. It is one of The level lands bordering the Truckee the regular eating stations, and has an consist mostly of gravelly upland, cov- excellent hotel. The town is built of ered with sage-brush. It is claimed wood, and contains about 800 inhabit that they might be rendered productive ants. Aside from the Railroad House, by irrigation, and the experiment has there are two hotels, several lodging been tried in a small way, but with no houses and restaurants. The water flattering result. The Truckee mead- used here is obtained from Truckee ows, long noted as the rendezvous of riyer. the emigrants, who camped here to re- 152 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. Washoe City, 17 miles ; to Carson City, | innocent fellow firmly believing what 32 miles. Before proceeding further on he uttered. the road it may be well for the traveler The traveler will find the springs to visit the remarkable country to the sufficiently interesting to repay him south, where silver mining is carried on for the trouble of pausing here while in the most extensive and complete on his way to manner imaginable. It is but 21 miles to the celebrated Comstock Lead, VIRGINIA CITY, where are the first silver mines discov: This famous city is situated due south ered in the State of Nevada. By taking of Reno, 21 miles, on the slope of Mt. stage at Reno he will have an oppor Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet. tunity of obserying the noted The town is well built, and contains many elegant public and private build- STEAMBOAT SPRINGS. ings. It contains a population of about At Huffaker's he can obtain a con- 15,000, the larger portion of whom are veyance for the springs, which are sit engaged in mining in the vicinity uated on the Carson and Reno stage road, five miles distant. NEWSPAPERS, CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS. Arrived there, he will find several of The Daily Territorial Enterprise these curious springs, within a short radical Republican-is published here, distance of the road. They are near by J. T. Goodman, and is decidedly a each other, all having a common source, good paper. though different outlets, apparently. The religious and educational inter- They are situated in an alkaline flat, ests are well represented by several devoid of vegetation, and are very hot, churches and good schools. though the temperature varies in differ- There are a number of hotels in the ent springs. They are said to possess city, at which the traveler will find excellent medicinal qualities. At times good accommodations. they are quite active, emitting jets of Two miles from Virginia city is water and clouds of steam-which at a GOLD HILL, distance resembles the blowing off of Also a flourishing mining town. It steam from a large boiler. The ground consists mostly of one main street, around them is sctt and treacherous in being built along a ravine. One can places, as though it had been thrown up hardly tell when he leaves Virginia by the springs, and had not yet cooled City and enters Gold Hill, they are so or hardened. It is related that once up: closely connected. The place contains on a time, when a party of emigrants, abcut 5,000 inhabitants, and one news- who were toiling across the plains, ar- paper, the Gold Hill News, published rived near these springs about camping by P. Lynch, a well known journalist. time, they sent a man ahead-a Dutch- man-to look out for a suitable place DAYTON, for camping-one where water and grass Nine miles south of Virginia City, a could be obtained. In his search the thriving town of about 800 inhabitants. Dutchman discovered these springs, The mines of Gold Hill are, as the which happened to be quiet at the time, name indicates, gold-bearing quartz, and knelt down to take a drink of the while those at Virginia City are silver. clear, nice-looking water. Just at that instant a jet of spray was thrown out THE GOLD MINES and over the astonished Dutchman. Were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby Springing to his feet, he dashed away and some others, who commenced min- to the train, shouting at the top of his ing in Six Mile Canyon—where the voice,“ Drive on! drive on! h-ll is Ophir works now are--and continued not five miles from this place !” the working the place with indifferent suc- 156 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. trade of $30,000. The average monthly lake. From Glenbrook House there is sales of merchandise in the town a fine road to Carson City. amount to about $140,000. Following around to the north end of the lake, and but a short distance POINTS OF INTEREST away, are the celebrated HoT SPRINGS, And now to reach them. We have | lying just across the State line, in Ne- spoken of the stage lines to the lakes, vada. Near them is a splendid spring but of no other mode of reaching those of clear cold water, totally devoid of places. Campbell, of the Truckee | mineral taste. The next object which House, has fine turn-outs in his stables. | attracts our attention is CORNELIAN "Take one of these, and with him or BAY, a beautiful indenture in the coast, Bayley for a guide, start out for with fine gravel bottom. Thus far LAKE TAHOE, there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge Twelve miles distant. A splendid road is not smooth and easy. affords one of the best and pleasantest Passing on around to the west side, drives to be found in the State. The road follows the river bank, under the we return to shade of waying pines or across green TAHOE CITY, meadows, until it reaches Tahoe City, Which contains two hotels, two stores, at the foot of the lake. Here are excel- one saloon, two livery stables and seve. lent accommodations for travelers, a ral private dwellings. Four miles from good hotel; boats and a well-stocked Tahoe City is Saxon's saw mill, and two stable, from whence you take a carriage (if you come by stage) and travel around miles beyond this we come to more saw mills, and finally we reach SUGAR PINE the lake. POINT, a spur of mountains covered According to the survey of the State with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the line, Lake Tahoe lies in two States and most valuable lumber for all uses found five counties. The line between Cali- on the Pacific coast. There are fine fornia and Nevada rons north and south, streams running into the lake on each through the lake, until it reaches a cer- side of the point. We now arrive at tain point therein, when it changes to EMERALD BAY, a beautifully placid inlet, a course 17 deg. east of south. Thus, two miles long, which seems to hide it- the counties of Eldorado and Placer in self among the pine-clad hills. It is not California, and Washoe, Ormsby and over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but Douglas in Nevada, all share in the widens to two miles inland, forming waters of the Tahoe. Where the line one of the prettiest land-locked harbors was surveyed through the lake, it is in the world. It is owned by Ben Hol- 1,700 feet deep. Starting on our ex- | liday. At the south end of the lake is ploring tour we will commence with the site of the OLD LAKE HOUSE, burned he eastern shore. The first object of a short time ago. At this point, LAKE nterest met with is a relic of the palmy VALLEY CREEK enters the lake, having lays of staging. wound among the hills for several miles FRYDAY'S STATION, an old stage sta- since it left the springs and snows which ion, established by Burke, in '59, on feed it. The VALLEY OF LAKE CREEK he Placerville and Tahoe stage road. is one of the loveliest to be found among Ten miles further on, we come to the the Sierras. The whole valley, from GLENBROOK HOUSE, a favorite resort | the mountain slope to the lake, is one or tourists. Four miles further on, we continual series of verdant meadows, ome to THE CAVE, a cavern in the dotted with milk ranches, where the lillside, fully 100 feet above and over- | choicest butter and cheese are manufac- langing the lake. There are also two | tured. Around the lake the land is jaw mills on the eastern shore of the generally level for some distance back, WA I IIII RBICKINS ПТНЕ TRANS CONTINENTAL Paall-ROAD INUWE UNTUT ILMOIZLETIN2 ATTI b. Tillant WITH Summit Tunnel, summit Sierra Nevada Mountains, C. P. R. R. -1,700 foet longo (Description on page 163.) 158 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. and covered with pine, fir and balsam timber, embracing at least 300 sections of as fine timbered land as the State affords. It is easy of access and handy to market, the logs being rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the general appear. ance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one must go there and spend a short time. When once there, sailing on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in your hand like a wil- low wand, you will be in no hurry to leave. If you become tired of sailing and angling, take your gun and tramp into the hills and fill your game pouch with quail and grouse, and perhaps you may start up a deer or bear. He who cannot content himself for a time at Tahoe, could not be satisfied in any place on earth; he would need to find a new and better world. We have now circled the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. We are loth to leave it, but we will return to Truckee, and thence to DONNER LAKE. This lovely little lakelet, the “Gem of the Sierras, lics two and a half miles northwest of Truckee. It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and an unknown depth-having been sounded 1,700 feet, and no bottom found. This and Lake Tahoe are undoubtedly the craters of old volcanoes, the mountains around them presenting unmistakable evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water 50 feet deep. It is surrounded on three sides by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of immense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil up- ward to the “Summit," and the few ca- bins scattered here and there along the shore, one would fancy that he was in one of nature's secret retreats, where man had never ventured before. But when an immense log comes sweeping and crashing down the hill-side and plunges into the lake, he arrives at the conclusion that some one has been here before him, and has concluded to stay a while. A small stream which tumbles down the mountain side winds its way through the dense wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rests against the foot of “Summit” Mountain. At this point, on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, is the LAKE HOUSE, A favorite resort for tourists. The stage from Truckee runs to this place twice a day, on the arrival of the cars from east and west. From the Lake House, a very fine view of the railroad can be obtained. Within sight are four tunnels and several miles of snow-sheds, while behind and seemingly overhang ing the road, the mountain's bald, bleak, bare, massive piles of granite tower far above, their precipitous sides seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A fine road has been graded along the right-hand shore, from the station to the Lake House, forming a splendid drive. The "old emigrant road " skirts the foot of the lake (where the Donner party perished), and following up the stage road, climbs the “Summit" just beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it struck the divide at Summit Valley; - from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest-spurs, and followed the divide down from Emigrant Gap. On the grade road, at the foot of the lake, is the GRANT HOUSE, Another resort for travelers and tour- ists. At this place, and also at the Lake House, are boats, fishing tackle, and all things needful for an excursion on the placid waters. A saw mill has been built at the foot of the lake, where a GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 163 towering among the clouds, seeming 1 on the zeypher's breath, which are but one immense mass of solid granite, transferred with a morning kiss to the with here and there a bunch of stunted "pale-faced city's daughter," to renew bushes growing among the clefts and the bloom wasted amid balls and the chasms which travese it. aimless life of city dissipation. There We are on the dividing ridge which is health and vigor for the invalid, for separates the head waters of several the toil-worn business man, if he' but mountain rivers, which, by different cast aside his business cares and for and tortuous courses, find at last the awhile become a natural person among same common receptacle for their snow nature's grandest scenery. fed waters—the Sacramento river. In connection with Truckee City, this Close to our right, far down in that fir place is destined to become a noted clad gorge, the waters of the South summer resort for the invalid, the plea Yuba leap and dance along, amid dense sure-seeker, the tourist, and the busi- and gloomy forests, and over almost ness man who can spare a few weeks countless rapids, cascades and waterfalls. from their exhausting labors. This stream heads against and far up the Summit, one branch crossing the THE TUNNELS AND SNOW-SHEDS. road at the next station, Cascade. As From the time when the road enters we pass along the divide, after passing the crests of the “Summit,” it passes Cisco, we shall see the head waters of through a succession of tunnels and Bear river, lying between the divide Snow-sheds (see first snow.shed illustra- and the Yuba, which winds away be. tion) so closely connected that the tray. yond our sight behind another moun. eler can bardly tell when the cars enter tain ridge. Farther on still and we lose or leave a tunnel. The Summit Tunnel sight of Bear river to find the American (see illustration) the longest of the river on our left. These streams reach number, is 1,700 feet long, the others the same ending, the Sacramento river, ranging from 100 to 700 feet in length but far apart where they mingle with The snow-sheds are solid structures, that stream. There is no grander scenery built of sawed and round timber, com- in the Sierras of towering mountains, pletely rooting in the road for many deep gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling miles. When the road was completed waterfalls and crystal lakes--than abound there were 23 miles of shed built, at an within an easy distance of this place. actual cost of $10,000 per mile. With The tourist can find scenes of the deep the additions since made the line reaches est interest and grandest beauty; the about 45 miles, which includes the scholar and philosopher, objects of rare whole length of the deep snow line on value for scientific investigation. The the dividing ridge. When we consider hunter and angler can find an almost that along the summit the snow falls unlimited field for their amusement from 16 to 20 feet deep during a wet the former in the gorges of the moun. winter, we can imagine the necessity tains where the timid deer and fierce and importance of these structures. By grizzly bear make their home; the lat this means the track is as clear from ter among the mountain lakes and snow in the winter as in the valleys. streams, where the speckled trout leaps | The mighty avalanches which sweep. in its joyous freedom, while around all down the mountain sides in the spring, is the music of snow-fed mountain tor bearing everything before them, pass rent and mountain breeze, and over all over the sloping roofs of the sheds, and is the clear, blue sky of our sunny clime, plunge into the chasms below, while tempered and softened by the shadows beneath the rushing mass the cars glide of the everlasting hills. There is life, smoothly along, the passengers hardly health and vigor on every hand if one knowing but what they are in the midst will but embrace it. There are roses | of an enormous tunnel. 164 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. Where the road lies clear on the divide and beef can be successfully cured here or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, during any portion of the year. In most like those of any building calculated to portions of the State, and especially so withstand a great weight of snow. But on the plains, it is extremely difficult, where the road is built against the side generally impossible, to cure meat by –òffitiẦ/₂₂/₂ņēmēģ₂?Â₂âÒņēmēņ₂₂₂m₂ÂòÂ?Â₂Ò₂ÂÒ₂ÂÒř► the usual process of pickling. The can have but one slope, and that must hams, which are cured in the low lands, reach the mountain side, to enable the are generally “pumped,” and then they “snow-slides" to cross the road without keep but a short time. But here meat doing harm to that or the passing can be put up in brine and thoroughly trains. (See second snow-shed illustra cured at any time. This fact, together tion.) with its proximity to the railroad, will Leaving the Summit, we passs on, have the effect of creating an extensive through show-sheds and tunnels, around business at this point. the base of towering peaks, anon over SODA SPRINGS. the bare ridge with an uubroken view on either hand, then amid grand old These springs are found near the foot forest trees until we reach of Summit Valley, their waters uniting CASCADE, with others, forming the head waters of the American river. The springs are Six miles west of Summit. Elevation, | very large and numerous. The water is 6,540 feet. Here we cross one of the | pronounced to be the best medicinal brances of the Yuba, which goes leap water in the State. It is a delightful ing down the rocks in a shower of spray drink, cool and sparkling, possessing the during the summer, but in the winter taste of the best quality of manufactured the chasm shows but a bed of snow and soda water. The larger of the springs ice. While passing along, the traveler have been improved, and great quantities will observe to the west a broad grassy of the water is now bottled and shipped meadow, dotted with trees, and lying to all parts of the State. Near the Soda between two lofty mountains. This Springs are others, the waters of which beautiful plain is called are devoid of mineral or aciduous taste, SUMMIT VALLEY, and cold as ice. “'Tis a singular place," the miner It will repay the traveler to spend a said, when telling his friends of his dis- day here, in one of the loftiest of the covery. “'Tis a singular place; dog on Sierra valleys. It is covered with a my skin if it ain't, whar sweet and sour luxuriant growth of grass, affording water comes oute'n the same hole, one pasturage for large bands of cattle, dur bilin' hot, to look at it, but cold as ice; ing the summer. It is all occupied by | the other looking warm and quiet, but dairymen and stockraisers, at whose cold enough to freeze a feller to death." comfortable dwellings the tourist will We leave the valley and Hot Springs find a hearty welcome. It is a delight with the remark that at Tinker's Sta- ful summer retreat-a favorite resort for | tion, or those who prefer the mountains with their cool breezes and pure water. The TAMARACK, valley is watered by many springs and Is the best point at which to leave the snow-fed rivulets, whose waters flow to cars for a visit to the valley. This sta- the American river. tion is four miles west of the cascades, This valley is becoming noted in a and has little importance, cars stopping business point of view, as well as being only on signal. Elevation, 6,212 feet. a place of summer resort. It is becom-/ Among the hills, through snow-sheds ing celebrated as a meat packing station, and tunnels, we speed on for three miles, it having been demonstrated that pork | when we arrive at GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 165 : CISCO, the accommodation of the mills in the An eating station. Elevation, 5,911 feet, vicinity. Immense quantities of lumber where good meals can be obtained. are manufactured in these mountains, There is quite a little town of sharp- near the line of the road, Sacramento roofed wooden houses here, containing affording a ready market for the article. about 400 inhabitants. At one time it Before the railroad reached these moun- was quite an important place, being the tains, the lumber interest of this section “terminus” during the time occupied was of little value, there being only a in tunneling through the summit. A local demand, which hardly paid for turn table and small shops were erected, building mills and keeping teams. The but they are little used now, as the road mines were then the only market-the has passed them. cost of freight to the valleys forbidding competition with the Puget Sound lum- Leaving Cisco, we pass on the down ber trade, or with mills situated so much grade carrying us along rapidly and nearer the agricultural districts. Now easily, without the help of the locomo- the lumber can be sent to the valleys, tives. We feel refreshed by the moun- ₂ti₂ti₂ /₂/₂/₂/₂ /₂/₂ū₂ÂÒ₂ÂòÂ₂Ò₂/₂Ò₂§ and sold as cheap as any in a market rarely overstocked, for the one item of have an interval between them, we lumber forms one of the staple market catch glimpses of the streams we have articles, ruling at more regular prices, mentioned, the Bear and Yuba rivers and being in better demand, than any away to our right and far, far below us. other article of trade, if we except wheat. Eight miles west from Cisco, we reach Passing on, we leave Blue Canyon, EMIGRANT GAP, its sparkling waters and giant pines, The point where the old emigrant road speeding along around the hill sides, crossed the divide, and followed down past the ridges to the valley of the Sacra- CHINA RANCH, mento. The emigrants passed over the An unimportant station, two miles west “ gap,” we pass under it, making a slight of Blue Canyon, with an elevation of difference in elevation between the two 4,359 feet. Two miles farther, and we roads, as well as a difference in the pass mode of traveling. We have seen the SHADY RUN, last of the old emigrant road that we A similar station to the last. Elevation, have followed so far. No more will the 4,125 feet. Five miles beyond Shady weary emigrant toil over the long and Run, and we stop for a few minutes at weary journey. Space is annihilated, ALTA, and ihe tireless iron horse will hence- forth haul an iron wagon over an iron A freight and passenger station. Alta road, landing the emigrant fresh and looks old and weather-beaten, and its hearty, after a week's ride, in the sunny half-dozen board houses with sharp land of his adoption. roofs look as though there was little less than a century between the present and Passing on amid the grand old pines, the time when they were ushered into leaving the summit peaks behind, we existence turn up Blue canyon, the road-bed on Fronting Alta, and but a short dis. the opposite bank apparently running tance from the town, is the parallel with the one we are traversing. We swing around the head of the can- GREAT AMERICAN CANYON, yon, past saw mills, and lumber side- One of the grandest gorges in the Sierra tracks, until we reach the station of Mountains. [See Illustration.] The BLUE CANYON, river is here compressed between two Six miles from Cisco. Elevation, 4,700 | walls, 2,000 feet high, and so near per. feet. A freight and lumber station, for | pendicular that we can stand on the 170 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. _ quartz; none has added more real wealth prospectors to try their luck in that to the State at large. section, in preference to running after NEWSPAPERS, SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. any excitements in other and less fav. The Grass Valley National, Democra- ored localities. tic, daily, and Grass Valley Union, daily, NEVADA, are well conducted journals, very zeal- The county seat of Nevada county, is ous in their local interests. The schools situated on Deer ceeek, four miles from are among the best, and well attended. Grass Valley, and contains about 4,000 The churches, which are neat, tasty inhabitants. It is rather irregularly structures, represent several denomin- laid out, owing to the formation of the ations. The Orphan Asylum, under land, and the creek which runs through charge of the Sisters of Mercy, is a noble a portion of the town. The county edifice, a credit to the community, and buildings are very fine, the jail one of in its management it reflects honor on the best in the State. There are many those noble ladies whose lives are de | elegant private residences, and in all voted to alleviating the sufferings of parts of the city we find the tasty gar- others. dens, flourishing orchards and yine- HOTELS. yards, their bright green foliage con- There are four of these necessary in- trasting strikingly with the brown or stitutions here, of which the Exchange, red hillsides. kept by Charley Smith, is the most NEWSPAPERS, SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. noted resort for travelers. The Nevada Transcript and Nevada LINES OF TRAVEL. Gazette, Republican, dailies, are first-class The town is connected with Nevada local journals, and deserving of success. and the northern towns by stage ; also Nevada boasts of her public schools, and with Marysville. justly too-for in no county in the State MINES, MILLS, ETC. is the educational interest more flourish- In September, 1850, a miner picked ing or better represented. The several up a piece of gold-bearing quartz on denominations have fine churches, which Gold Hill. From this prospecting com. are very well attended. The colored citizens of Nevada have a church of their menced, and soon several valuable own, and a large congregation, con- mines were opened. In 1851 the first sidering the number of that class of quartz mill was erected in Boston ra. vine, now one of the most populous citizens. HOTELS. portions of the town. We can only give the names of a few of the most The city contains several, the leading noted lodes, which have rendered this ones being the National, by J. Lancaster, the foremost mining town in the State. and the Union (the largest frame build- They are the Allison Ranch vein, Rocky ing in the State), by Eaton & Williamson. Bar vein, Eureka and the Old Emper- We can recommend both, and besides or's vein. The quartz mills are all sup. we will add, do not leave Nevada until plied with all the modern improve- you “go to ‘Blaze's.'” ments, milling the ore with little loss. LINES OF TRAVEL. There are many of these structures in Nevada is connected by stage with and around town, thousands of dollars being invested in this property. Marysville, via Grass Valley; Dutch The Flat, via Little York and You Bet; custom mills work rock very cheap, affording prospectors an opportunity to North San Juan and Downieville. test their discoveries. From our knowl- MINES AND MILLS. edge of Grass Valley and the quartz belt The first mining in Nevada was of Nevada county, we would advise placer, creek and gulch-washing. The 172 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. made in the State has been made on this NEWSPAPERS AND HOTELS. track. It is owned and kept by Ned The Stars and Stripes, Republican, Pratt. weekly, and the Placer Herald, Demo- We will now return to Colfax and see cratic, weekly, are published here. The what towns there are to note in the op. principal hotel in the place is the Amer- posite direction. ican, kept by Sam Morris, who has con- IOWA HILL, siderable humanity under his rough out side, though you must break the crust A mining town, 12 miles south of Col- before you find it. The Orleans, by A. fax. A good toll road crosses the Amer. Lipset, and the Railroad House, by ican river on the bridge which we saw James Smith, at the station, are both when rounding Cape Horn, and follow good houses. up the mountain to the town, which contains about 600 inhabitants. STAGE LINES. The Citizens' Stage Line, C. J. Shaw, ILLINOIS TOWN, agent, runs daily lines from this point About half a mile west of Colfax, once to Pilot Hill, six miles; Cave Valley a noted freighting point for the sur six miles ; Greenwood, twelve miles, rounding mines. It now contains about and Georgetown, seventeen miles. The 100 inhabitants. Some of the finest ap Auburn Stage Line to Forest Hill, 21 ple and peach orchards in this section miles, and Michigan Bluffs, 30 miles. are found here, the attention of the in Also Trescot's or Citizens' lines to habitants being directed to fruit-grow Placerville, 29 miles, via Alabaster Cave, ing and farming. Pilot Hill, Coloma and Cold Springs. Leaving Colfax, we resume our jour. ALABASTER CAVE ney. Following down Auburn ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding Is a favorite resort near town. It is a in and out among the hills, passing cosy large cavern in the hillside, the walls of little ranches, we reach the chambers and ceilings being covered with encrustations resembling alabaster CLIPPER GAP, in appearance. Good accommodations Once a thriving camp, now only a depot have been provided for the traveling for the freight needed in this vicinity. public who visit it. Elevation, 1,785 feet. We leave the ra. Leaving Auburn, we pass among the vine and keep along among the foot low rolling hills for five miles, when we hills to hold the grade, and after pass arrive at ing through many an old washed placer NEWCASTLE, mine, we arrive at Elevation, 930 feet. It is but a small AUBURN, place, containing about 200 inhabitants. This is the county seat of Placer We pass on through little valleys and county, and is really a pretty town of among low hills, with evidences of past 1,000 inhabitants. Elevation, 1,385 feet. | and a little present mining. Gardens and orchards abounds, and Off to the right are the old time min- everything betokens quiet, home-com. ing camps of Ophir, Virginia City, Gold forts and ease. It has excellent schools Hill, and several others, where yet con- and fine churches, and is one of the | siderable placer mining is indulged in by neatest looking towns in the county, the old settlers, who are good for noth- though not as lively as regards busi ing else. There is a miner's cabin under ness, freight and travel. The public yonder tree, with the little patch of buildings, court house, etc, are good, garden, and, yes, a rose bush in front. and the ground well kept. The great Look, old '49 comes to the door, pipe in er part of the dwellings stand a little mouth, a twenty years' beard sweeping distance from the road. his bosom, and gazes on the passing 174 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUJDE. SACRAMENTO STATION, There is much of interest in Sacra. The terminus of the grand trans-conti. mento to the traveler, aside from the nental railroad. Elevation, 56 feet. fact of its being the capital of the State, Distance from Omaha, 1,775 miles. and the centre of the railroad system, But we promised to tell you where to which has given new life and impetus go and who to stop with. Here are to the inland commerce of the State. free“ busses” to all the leading houses. Sacramento is the heart, so to speak, of Sacramento has many good hotels. It this system of iron arteries, whose pul. makes little difference which hotel you sations reach even to the Atlantic sea- go to. We will take one, and after we board on the east, and to those far-away have settled in our room, we will look and almost unknown nations of the west over the daily the oldest, though the least known and appreciated, of all the nations with NEWSPAPERS, whom commerce has connected our And learn what is going on in the city western shores. Aside from these facts, and the State. We always expect to learn which render the city one of interest in of local interests from this source, there. a geographical and commercial point of fore we commence with the Sacramento view, there is a quiet beauty peculiar to Union, independent, established in '51. this city alone, which renders it attrac- If you want a Democratic journal, try tive to the most careless of travelers. the State Capital Reporter. If you like Its well shaded streetsmits beautiful an evening Republican journal, buy the gardens, blooming with an almost tro- Sacramento Bee, and if that don't suit, pical luxuriance--its vineyards and or- try the Record, Republican, morning chards—all combine to form a city such journal. If you are a temperance man as one rarely meets with in California, and not very thirsty, try the Rescue, an and nowhere else. excellent family paper. If you are not Sacramento is endeared to Califor- suited with any of these, just call on E. 8. Denison, Esq., at No. 3 Front street, nians, not by reason of her present opposite Depot, General News Agent, beauty and prosperity, but because she is truly an American city, whose peo. and agent for the GUIDE, he will pro- ple, by their indomitable energy and · cure you a copy of any paper published in the perseverance have raised this monument State, or elsewhere, - any. thing in the literary line, not excepting to our national character, despite the ravages of fire and flood. Not only have the Eastern journals. After you have they rebuilt their city, but they have read the papers, had a good rest and built the ground on which it stands, and righted yourself up generally, we will to-day the city stands some ten feet walk out and examine the beauties and business, the past, present and future of | above the original site on which Sacra- mento was first established. SACRAMENTO. From the small and unimportant It is situated on the east bank of the hamlet of a few years ago, it has emerged Sacramento river, south of the Ameri. a thriving, bustling city. Fires burned can, which unites with the Sacramento the young city to the ground; but it at this point. The city is mostly built | rose, Phænix like, more beautiful than of brick ; the streets are broad, well- ever. The floods swept over it as with paved, and bordered with shade trees a besom of destruction in the winter of throughout a large portion of the city. '51-2, and the waters were rushing with It contains numerous elegant public and irresistable force through every street. private buildings, including the State When they abated, the people went to Capitol and county buildings. The pop- work and built levees around their city, ulation of the city numbers 50,000, and | and fancied themselves secure. Again is rapidly increasing. | the floods came in the winter of '61-62 ill w sec Bloomer Cut—85 feet deep and 800 feet long-Sierra Nevada Mountains, C. P. R. R.—(From photograph.) GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 181 ney rests on a brick foundation, con I of incalculable benefit to those unfortu taining 60,000 brick, which in turn rests | nates who are obliged to seek its shelter on 49 piles. There are two immense SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. boilers resting on this foundation also, which are fitted with every modern im- Sacramento possesses excellent pub. provement, including Clark's patent lic and private schools, which afford damper regulator, a regular automaton ample accommodation. The Sisters o engineer. We think this is the only en- Charity have an orphan school at the gine on the coast supplied with Clark's convent, which is largely attended, the improvements. Each boiler is supplied proportion of orphans among the pupils with a four-inch steam pump, Cross's being about one to several. No pupils patent, and a Knowles's patent feed or are refused, and tuition being free to water heater. those whose parents are poor, the school is well attended. It is surprisng WATER what an amount of poverty there is in Is obtained by means of two artesian all countries when poor people can have wells, each 13-inch pipes and 75 feet | their children educated free of charge : deep. Two lift pumps, 612-inch bore, Still these same poor people always raise the water into the tanks on the have money for drinks and tobacco. buildings, from thence to the tank be We do not wish to convey the idea that hind the round-house. Pipes run all of the scholars who attend the Sis through the various buildings with hose ter's school are charity scholars; far attached, and in case of fire a hundred from it, for many of Sacramento's streams could be brought to bear on wealthiest citizens educate their chil- any given point in the shops. dren there and pay liberally for it. The various religious denominations A RELIC. are well represented in this city by The first locomotive run in California good churches, some of which are very can be seen here, used for the purpose fine buildings. Generally speaking, of running the work cars from point to Sacramentans are a church-going peo- point among the shops. It was built at ple, and support these institutions lib- the Norris Works, Philadelphia, and was erally. first used in this State on the Market LINES OF TRAVEL. Street Railroad, San Francisco. Beside the Central and Western STORE HOUSE. Pacific, the California Pacific, and Sacramento Valley and Placerville Rail. This is a very large structure, capable roads centre in this city. The Cali- of storing many tons of iron, and it is fornia Pacific has its terminus at Wash: generally full. The amount of iron, in | ington, across the river at present, but all shapes and stages of manufacture, will be connected with the city by that meets the eye here, slightly aston- bridge ere long, and have its depot with ishes the beholder, unless he comes from the other roads. the iron mines. Shafts, axles, car wheels, SACRAMENTO AND SHINGLE SPRINGS. piles of flat, square and round iron, meet him at every turn, until, despair- · The Sacramento, Folsom and Shingle ing of estimating the amount, he gives Springs Railroad, run daily trains via up the job in disgust. Brighton, Junction, Patterson's, Sals. bury, Alder Creek, Folsom, 221 miles THE HOSPITAL. White Rock, Lathrobe, Dugan's to The company have a large, airy and Shingle Springs, 48% miles. Connec comfortable hospital, located near the tions--Folsom, stage for Coloma, 24 shops, where their men are taken care miles; Lathrobe, stage for Mokelumn of when sick or disabled. It is well Hill and intervening points ; Shingle conducted, a credit to the company, and springs, stage for Placerville, 12 miles 182 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE, SACRAMENTO AND MARYAVILLE. the Sacramento, every Tuesday and California and Oregon R. R. run Friday. daily trains to Marysville via Junction, Extra boats are run on the Sacra- Lincoln, Sheridan, Douglas, Wheatland mento and Feather rivers during har- and Marysville, 51 miles. Thence by vest. GENERAL REVIEW CALIFORNIA NORTHERN RAILROAD, Via Honcut and Rose's station, to Oro- Of the towns and country near by, and ville, 26 miles from Marysville. Con- connected by rail, stage and water with nect at Oroville with stage for Chico, Sacramento. In a book of the size of the GUIDE it cannot be expected that Red Bluffs, Northern California and we can give a complete description of Oregon. California. To speak of all her towns, SACRAMENTO AND VALLEJO. rivers, cities, mountains, vineyards, etc., California Pacific R. R. run daily would fill a far larger volume than this, trains to Davisville, Dixon, Vaca, Fair- and then the half would not be told. field, Bridgeport, Summit, Napa Junc- But we will look at a small portion of tion, Vallejo, 60 miles, where it con- the richest valley in the world, the Sa- nects with the steamer “New World” cramento, and perhaps glance at some from Vallejo to San Francisco, 28 miles other valleys and portions of the State. farther. Also connecting at Davisville Having brought our fellow travelers with cars for Woodland, 12 miles ; at safely through to Sacramento, we now Napa Junction with propose to run around with them over a portion of the fairest of all fair lands. NAPA VALLEY RAILROAD. We will visit the vast wheat fields and Daily trains from Vallejo, via Napa some of the interior towns; note their Junction, Suscol, Napa City and St. size, business and population. Helena to Calistoga, 43 miles. Taking the stage, we will cross over WESTERN PACIFIC RAILROAD. into Yolo county. The Yolo bridge is This road is now completed to OAK- 800 feet long, with a draw over the LAND, where passengers cross the bay to channel, connecting Sacramento with San Francisco on a fine, large ferry boat. WASHINGTON, We shall conduct the traveler by this route, after reviewing other lines, and The present terminus of the California Pacific Railroad. It is an old town, some portions of the country in con- nection with Sacramento. very old, showing signs of decay. Ah, well, age tells on all alike in this cli- STAGE LINES. mate, though all do not tell their age. Sacramento and Cacheville, via Wash- | The town is straggling, the best portion ington and Woodland, 23 miles, Tucker of it running down the river's bank to & Buckley, proprietors. It appears that the Olive Branch, the best hotel in the “Doc" has run all the other stage lines place. The town contains a population out of Sacramento, for we find no more ofabout-well, it depends much whether to chronicle. the draw in the bridge is closed. If it STEAMBOAT TRAVEL. is, they are generally in Sacramento; but we will strike an average and say The California Steam Navigation Co. 250. dispatch daily boats for San Francisco and intermediate points on the river. WOODLAND. For Marysville and intermediate points This is a thriving farming town of daily. about 1,200 inhabitants, the county seat To Red Bluffs, steamer every Satur- of Yolo county, situated in the midst of day. a level plain, about three miles west of To Knight's Landing and Colusa, on | Cache creek. A fine growth of oaks an WWW in the Rounding Cape Horn. (See page 169.) 188 GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. a flourishing condition, a sure evidence | bald peaks, and from thence view a of the prosperity of a town or country. portion of the valley, fair, bright and The Oroville Record, weekly, is pub smiling with God's best gift to man, lished here. and then ask yourself, if other land be- CHICO. side the “ Sunset State" can show scen- A perfect gem of a town, is situated in ery at once so beautiful and sublime, so Chico Valley, in the midst of as rich a indicative of a people's wealth, pleasure, farming section as the State affords. It power and lasting greatness. In a work contains about 1,500 inhabitants; is Iike this, we can only sketch an outline situated on Chico creek, near its junc -a meagre one of the country along tion with the Sacramento. It is con- the main routes of travel, but those nected by stage with Oroville, by steam- who shall come after us will verify us er with Sacramento. The Northern when we say that no land can offer Enterprise, an excellent weekly journal, pleasanter homes than is offered in Cali- is published at this place. fornia. And no one can describe or We can enumerate no more towns convey but a faint impression of their now, but will leave the traveler to find beauties on the minds of those who them at his leisure. have seen them not, and have all their lives been accustomed to the rugged THE BUTTES. hills and heavy timbered land of the These mountains, which lie near Ma East and North, or the treeless prairie rysville, on the opposite side of the of the West. Such people must see this river, are noted landmarks. They con land before they can comprehend it; sist of a series of peaks that rise from must cease yearning to pile stone walls the crest of an isolated mountain range and log off heavy clearings, before they which stands bold and clear among the can enjoy it. plains. From appearances, one would We will now return to Sacramento, be led to suppose that this ridge crossed having seen one of the best portions of the valley at one time, when this was the State. From Sacramento we will an inland sea; and when the waters es. visit caped from the lower valley, those con- fined above cut a portion of the ridge THE FOOT HILLS. down level with the plain, and escaping, The Foot Hills, as the chain of broken left a beautiful valley above. land is called, which lies between the Before we leave Marysville and this Sierra Mountains and the plains,extends part of the great chain of valleys, we from Fresno county on the south will call the attention of the emigrant through Tuolumne, Calavaras, Amador, and traveler to this section of country. Eldorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte Travel over it, and see for yourselves if to Tehama on the north, comprising a fairer land can be found. Go among about one-fourth of the arable land of the the ranch-men-visit their homes and State. The soil is altogether different harvest fields—eat of the fruits and from that of the valleys, being general. drink of the wines of this sunny land. ly of a red gravelly clay and sandy There is enough to satisfy the most loam. In the little valleys which are exacting regarding richness of soil and found among these hills, the soil is gen- salubrity of climate-the essential points erally a black loam, the product of the of wealth and prosperity. There is mountain washings. Here are cosy country enough that is grand and rich homes, where grain and vegetables are and beautiful to employ the traveler a raised in abundance. The intervening long time ere he becomes acquainted hills are generally given up to “ range" with its wealth and beauty. or pasture during the season when the Visit the “Buttes”-isolated hills in feed is green on their sides, for until a the midst of the plains-climb to their | few years they were considered value. GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 193 The soil around Stockton is “adobe,” | called. The Benton mills are on the a vegetable mould, black and very slip. | Merced river, about two miles from the pery and soft during the rainy season. town, reached by a good dug road, This extends westward to French Camp, down a very steep mountain. a noted point in early days, five miles In Mt. Ophir and Princeton, a min- from the city. Here the "Sand Plains” ingtown near by, are large quartz mille, commence; and extend west to the river belonging to the estate and extensive San Joaquin, and south ward some 40 mines. miles, to the low hills which border the Arrived at Mariposa, a mining town southern mountains. Mount Diablo of 1,200 inhabitants-the county seat of rises clear and grand from out the plains, Mariposa county-the traveler will take an unerring pilot to those who wandered saddle horses for the remainder of the across these once trackless plains, that journey. For a portion of the way he now are teeming with life and industry, will find a good road, and the remaining the home of an energetic and wealthy distance a good trail. Two days will class of farmers. be occupied in making the trip. Leav- SUMMER RESORTS. ing Mariposa, the road at once enters The visitor to this State will hardly the mountains, passing Hatch's saw mill, 12 miles distant, arriving at Clark's wish to leave it until he has visited the Ranch, 25 miles. (Here a trail branches wonderful, grand and beautiful off to the Mariposa grove of Big Trees, YOSEMITE VALLEY. 427 in number, the largest being 34 feet Tourists from the East will change in diameter.) From Clark's Ranch to cars at Sacramento, thence to Stockton, Alder Creek, 32 miles ; thence to Em. by railroad, 50 miles. From this city pire Canıp, 34 miles; Inspiration Point, are three routes, via Mariposa, Coulter. 43 miles; Foot of Trail, 46 miles : ville and Hardin's Mill." We express Hutching's Hotel, in the valley, 51 miles no preference, as each possesses many from Mariposa. attractive features. By entering the COULTERVILLE ROUTE. valley by one route, and returning by another, but little of the scenery will Leave Stockton on C. H. Sisson & Co.'s be overlooked. Stage Line-daily-for Chinese Camp, via Twelve Mile House, Farmington, i6 MARIPOSA ROUTE. miles; Twenty-six Mile House, Knight's Fisher's stages leave Stockton at 6 Ferry, on the Stanislaus river, 37 miles; A. M. for Mariposa, 100 miles distant. Crimea House, 48 miles; Mount Pleas Towns on the route are-French Camp, ant, 50 miles ; Chinese Camp, 51 miles five miles from stockton; Spelling's, | At this point, take Shoop's stages for county seat of Merced county, on the Coulterville, via Jacksonville, three Merced river, 64 miles; Merced Falls, I miles; Rattlesnake, 12 miles ; Coulter- 70 miles; Hornitas, 76 miles. Here the ville, 23 miles. Total, 74 miles. At traveler can remain over night, or not, this place, horses and guides are taken as he chooses. From this point two for Hutching's Hotel, 57 miles--one routes lead to Mariposa, one via Bear night being spent on the road. Op this Valley, 88 miles from Stockton; the route, 10 miles from Coulterville, at other by the lower toll road direct to Marble Springs, is Bower Cave. Six Mariposa. Bear Valley lies to the left teen miles from Coulterville is Black's of the last-named line, the road from it House, where the traveler remains over uniting with the others at Mt. Ophir. night. When Hazel Green is reached, In Bear Valley are the mills and inines 6,679 feet above the sea, the traveler (or rather, a portion of them,) belong will have a fine view of the San Joa- ing to the “Las Mariposa Grant," or quin Valley Fremont's estate, as it is generally " At Crane Flat, 34 miles from Coulter. SUNNUNT WW NA USA am 2 RE PEN Yo Semite Falls, 2,634 feet fall. Yo Semite Valley Route. (See page 193.) AD CUIDE GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE. 205 - Memoranda. 192.) 77.7 1.317 MET DISC DISCE PA COGNOSCE NOSOS TEIPS Philip Ashton Rollins