S VIDEBIMVS LVMEN MBLA DEBORACI 1 Columbia University in the City of New York 7 LIBRARY יהוה COLL I-PBT1-1-2 LLEGII. 1705 1 : GUIDE TO THE MADEIRAS, AZORES, BRITISH AND FOREIGN WEST INDIES, MEXICO, AND NORTHERN SOUTH - AMERICA; COMPILED FROM DOCUMENTS SPECIALLY FUPNISHED BY THE ASUNTS, 0: THE ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY, AND OTHER AUTHENTIC SCUICES. .VITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE PASSAGE ACROSS THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA: ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS. USO, FULL PARTICULARS OF LANDING AT SOUTHAMPTON, AND THE PERIODS AND COST OF CONVEYANCE TO LONDON BY RAILWAY. BY JOHN OSBORNE, PASSENGER DEPARTMENT, LONDON OFFICE. Second Edition; enlarged. 1 LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & CO., STATIONERS' COURT, AND SOLD AT THE COMPANY'S OFFICE, MOORGATE STREET. 1844. LONDON: WALTON & MITCHELL, PRINTERS TO THE COMPANY, Wardour St., Oxford St. PREFACE. THE favourable manner in which the first edition of the Guide was received, has stimulated me to render the present Work as complete as possible. It is enlarged to fully twice the amount of matter contained in the first edition. New information has been obtained from the Royal Mail Steam Packet Agents abroad, in reply to a new series of questions; the history of each colony has been enlarged; their peculiar laws and government explained; and notice has been made of some new sources of trade and manufacture: in fact the work may be said to have been written anew. A chapter on health and climate is also added. To B. Wyon, Esq. I am indebted for the copies of the colonial seals attached to each island, as they are taken from his beautiful designs. Berita 106393 iv PREFACE. To G. R. Porter, Esq., of the Board of Trade, I am indebted for the Statistics of the British Colo- nies. They are now for the first time published, and cannot fail to be interesting to all concerned in these important dependencies of Great Britain. The alterations in the Routes ordered by Govern- ment are duly noticed; they come into operation this day, and consist of an additional communication with St. Jago de Cuba, -now twice a month,—and the performance of the Route from Jamaica to Santa Martha, Carthagena, Chagres, and San Juan de Nicaragua, by Steam; the Mails leaving England on the 17th of each month. J. O. London, 17th August, 1844. P.S. Any new information addressed to me at this office will be thankfully received. CONTENTS. Page. List of Directors of Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. vii R. M. S. P. Co.'s Ships viii Passenger Fares ix Intercolonial Fares x Plan of Routes .... ib. Regulations for Passengers xi on board Ship xiii Prices of Wines on board........ XV Freight for Specie, Cochineal, &c. xvi Packages Outwards ib. Postal Table xviii Detail of Routes xix Railway Information, &c...... xxvi Foreign Customs' Regulations—Mexico xxviii Hayti xxix La Guayra XXX Havana ib. Application for Berths, &c. 1 London to Southampton, Instructions as to Baggage, &c. ........ 2 At Sea ....... 4 8 16 18 23 Madeira The Atlantic Climate,-Health Barbadoes Grenada Trinidad Tobago Demerara. Jacmel, -Hayti 31 38 49 53 63 vi CONTENTS. Page. 69 85 105 123 126 133 144 157 165 172 178 181 190 196 201 207 Jamaica Havana Vera Cruz Tampico The Bahamas,-Nassau Bermuda St. Vincent.. St. Lucia Martinique Dominica Guadaloupe Antigua Montserrat Nevis St. Christopher The Virgin Isles—Tortola St. Thomas St. Juan's, Porto Rico Statistics. St. Jago de Cuba Statistics Belize, Honduras La Guayra Puerto Cabello Santa Martha Carthagena Chagres San Juan de Nicaragua Isthmus of Panama.... The River San Juan and Lake of Nicaragua The Isthmus of Tehuantepec The Azores-Fayal Farewell,--Homewards Southampton Advertisements 211 216 300 221 299 228 238 245 248 254 256 261 265 272 274 287 294 297 301 DET MON UROLO Royal Mail Steam Parket Company INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER. Directors. JOHN IRVING, Esq., M.P., Chairman. ANDREW COLVILLE, Esq., Deputy Chairman. THOMAS BARING, Esq., M.P. GEORGE BROWN, Esq. ROBERT COTESWORTH, Esq. RUSSELL ELLICE, Esq. GEORGE HIBBERT, Esq. JOHN IRVIN JUN., Esq. MICHAEL M'CHLERY, Esq. C. E. MANGLES, Esq. THOMAS MASTERMAN, Esq. H. NELSON, Esq. Secretary. EDWARD CHAPPELL, Captain R.N. (viii) LIST OF THE COMPANY'S VESSELS. SHIPS of 1400 Tons, 450 horse power each. AVON CLYDE DEE FORTH MEDWAY SEVERN TAY TEVIOT THAMES TRENT TWEED Captain STRUTT. SYMONS. HEMSLEY. CHAPMAN. M‘DOUGALL VINCENT. HAYDEN. ALLAN. Hast. BOXER. SHARP. of 900 Tons and 300 horse power each. ACTÆON CITY OF GLASGOW Captain JAMESON. ANDREWS. SCHOONERS. LIFFEY LARNE LEE RASTERICK. VALLER. GREAVES. 1 ( ix ) WEST INDIA PASSENGER FARES, Which includes the use of Bedding and Linen, Steward's Fees, and all other Charges, except for Wines, Spirits, Malt Liquors, and Mineral Waters. This Company's Steam Ships leave Southampton at 2 p.m. on the 2nd and 17th of each Month, unless the latter should be a Sunday, and then on the day following. ..45 ..35.. ..35.. ..35.. ..56 ..50 Atlantic Voyages, by Steamer. OUTWARD. HOMEWARD. After Double Double PLACES. After Fore Cab. Cabin. Fore Cab. Cabin. per Berth. per Berth. Antigua . £45 £35.. £47 £35 Barbadoes ..42..32.. ..47 ..35 Bermuda ..55 1..45.. .40..30 Carthagena ..60 1..50.. ..60 1..50 Chagres.. ..60..50.. ..60 ..50 Demerara 47 ..35 Dominica ..45 .47 1..35 Grenada ..45 ..47 1..35 Guadaloupe ..45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 Havana ..46.. ..50..40 Jacmel ..50 ..40.. ..50..40 Jamaica ........ ..50..40 Martinique . .45 ..47 1..35 Montserrat ..45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 Nassau ..60 ..50. ..50 1..40 Nevis... .45 ..35. ..47 1..35 Porto Rico ..45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 St. Jago de Cuba ..55 ..45.. ..50..40 St. Kitt's ..45..35.. 47 1..35 St. Lucia .. 45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 St. Thomas .. 45 ..35.. ..35 St. Vincent ..45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 Santa Martha ..60 ..50.. ..60 ..50 San Juan de Nicaragua ..60 --50.. ..60 1..50 Tampico ..67 ..57.. ..67 ..57 Tobago ..45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 Tortola .45 ..35,. ..47 1..35 Trinidad .45 ..35.. ..47 1..35 Vera Cruz ..65 ..65..55 Madeira... ..22.. | Fayal..17 ..40.. ..35.. .47 1 ..55.. ..30 ..17 (X) D) Outward and Homeward by Steamers--and Intercolonially as. Sailing Vessels. OUTWARD, HOMEWARD PLACES. La Guayra Porto Cabello Honduras After Double Cabin. Fore Cab. per Berth. £50 £40.. ..50..40.. 1..60 1..50.. After Double Cabin. Fore Cab. per Berth £50 £40 ..50 ..40 ..60 ..50 Nevis. Whenever a single Passenger requires the exclusive use 1 a Fore Cabin, the Fare is to be charged at a mean betwee the After Cabin and Fore Cabin rate. The difference in the rates of Passage Money between Afte 1 and Fore Cabins refers merely to the position of the Sleeping Cabin; in all other respects the Passengers will be precisely 1 on the same footing. 1 1 Arrangements, on reasonable terms, may be made by In- valids or others desirous to take the round of the Voyage. DYAGES. Nevis. a. 130 miles.--23 days. Tobago. Courland Bay, Porto Cabello. 15 30 20 55 30 10 70l 1201 130 180 100 1901 240 160 130) 1151 165 135 185 105 180) 230 150 120 301 85 75 100 unl 70 75 75 75 75 55 901 75 St.Juan's, Porto Rico. 15 days. One Steamer every St.Jago de Cuba ROUTE. DEMERARA S OF THE ROYAL MAIL STEAM PACKET COMPANY'S VESSELS "Pruing the Distances from place to place, and Time from England.-See page xix. TABLE I. OUTWARD ATLANTIC ROUTE. 11th L VAULO 128 miles.-27 days. 280 mies.—34 days. I Southampton. 2976 miles.-944 days. Fayal. 2249 miles.-544 days. St. Thomas, 23 miles.-273 days. To England. San Juan de Nicaragua. 240 miles.-36 days. Southampton. 1330 miles.-62, days. TABLE XI. ti. St. Juan's, in Porto Rico. 65 miles.-30 days. Chagres. 240 miles. HONDURAS ROUTE. And by the same Route back to Grenada. Carthagena. 280 miles. -- J ] One Schooner every 30 days. Belize. 500 miles.-464 days. Kingston, Jamaica 470 miles. And back to Havana. St. Jago de Cuba. 190 miles.--324 days. Back to Jamaica. * The communication to La Guayra, etc. is twice a month, a Schooner being sent by the Government of Venezuela to St. Thomas to receive the Mails made up in London on the 17th. (xi) REGULATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. I.-Deck Passengers only carried intercolonially. To find their own provisions and bedding, and not admitted abaft the chimney. To pay one-fifth the cabin fare. II.—Passengers' servants not to be booked as Deck Passengers. III.- Children of Cabin Passengers under three years of age to go free; above three years, and under eight years, to pay one-fourth the cabin-passage rate paid by their parents; above eight years, and under twelve years, to pay one-half ditto. IV.- Passengers’ male servants to pay one-half, and female two-thirds the cabin- passage rate paid by their employers. V.-Passengers not proceeding after taking their passage, to forfeit half the passage-money. VI.—The Spanish dollar to be taken in all the British possessions at the rate of 4s. 2d. sterling; the doubloon at 64s. VII.-In Foreign Ports the Fares specified in the In- tercolonial Table are to be paid in silver dollars, or their equivalent in other current coin ; this rule applies also to the British Colonies, except that notes of the West India Colonial Bank are to be taken as equivalent, when con- venient to all parties. VIII.-Dogs to be charged at one-eighth the fare paid by their owners. IX.-Merchandize, Specie, &c., not to be carried under the name of luggage. X.-Each adult Passenger allowed to carry luggage, free of charge, not exceeding twenty cubic feet measurement; children and servants half that quantity. XI.-All extra luggage to be charged 5s. per cubic foot. XII.-Should any occurrence prevent the vessels from meeting at the appointed places, the Company does not xii REGULATIONS. 1 hold itself responsible for the maintenance of Passengers, or for their loss of time during any detention consequent thereon; nor for any delay arising out of accidents; nor for any loss, damage, or detention of luggage. XIII.--There is to be no difference in the Fares between the Fore and After Cabins, so far as mere Intercolonial passages are concerned; the difference of Fares being only intended to apply to Transatlantic passages out and home. XIV.- Transatlantic Passengers are always to have priority of choice of Cabins over Intercolonial Passengers, whether previously booked or not. This is not however to extend to the displacing of any Intercolonial Passenger from an after Cabin, while any other Cabin of that descrip- tion is vacant. XV.-Should any Outward or Homeward-bound Pas- senger, who was originally booked for a Fore Cabin, shift to an After Cabin, he is to be charged After Cabin Fare throughout. XVI.-Should any Homeward-bound Passenger origin- ally booked for an After Cabin, upon subsequent tran- shipment fail to obtain accommodation in an after Cabin, he is to be charged only as a Fore Cabin Passenger throughout. XVII.-Should any Outward-bound Passenger, origin- ally booked for an After Cabin, upon subsequent tranship- ment fail to obtain accommodation in an After Cabin (as this can only occur when the voyage is nearly finished), he is to be allowed a deduction of Five Shillings per day for every day he is compelled to occupy such Fore Cabin. XVIII.-Intercolonial Passengers must not be booked farther than they can be conveyed by the vessel in which they embark, or by other vessels, expected to be met with, to which they can be transferred. XIX.-Passengers are not allowed to take on board wines, spirits, or other liquors for use during the Voyage, an ample stock thereof being provided on board, at moderate prices. XX.- Passengers are earnestly recommended to conform to established Regulations as respects Passports, &c., especially in Foreign Ports. Passports are now required by persons landing at Madeira. XXI.-The Company's Steam Tender will convey Pas- 1 1 REGULATIONS. xiii sengers on board, free of charge, at Southampton, leaving the shore for that purpose not later than ten minutes before ope, p.m. on the day of sailing. Baggage, except carpet bags and hat boxes, must be shipped the previous day. No heavy baggage will be received on board on the day of sailing. RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR PASSENGERS ON BOARD SHIPS. All persons taking a passage, either themselves or through their agents, must engage to comply with the following Regulations :- 1st.-Breakfast at nine o'clock. Luncheon at noon, Dinner at half-past three o'clock. Tea and coffee at half- past six o'clock. At one quarter of an hour previous to breakfast, dinner, and tea, a bell will be rung in order to give persons time to prepare. The Wines to be supplied are Port, Sherry, Madeira, Hock, Champagne, Claret, and Moselle, to which moderate prices are affixed. 20.-All passengers who are not unwell are expected to take their meals at the public table ; and all cabin passen- gers are expected to appear respectably dressed at table. 3d.-Cabin passengers, when in health, are to be dressed before eight o'clock; their beds to be turned down, their berths cleared out and beds made up before ten o'clock. 4th.–At ten P.M. all lights are to be put out, after which no wines, spirits, &c., are to be supplied, nor servants to be called, unless in case of sickness. No lights, except those in the fixed lanterns, to be on any account whatever allowed in the sleeping berths. 5th.-Sheets and pillow cases are to be changed every eight days, on long voyages, and a clean towel to be allowed to every passenger daily. 6th.-Wearing apparel, or slippers, are not to be allowed to be left lying about out of the berths. xiv REGULATIONS. 7th.-Smoking is not to be allowed either in the saloons or the berths, or the quarter-deck. The upper deck, before the funnel, is allowed for that purpose. 8th.--All Gambling and games of chance are positively prohibited in every part of the ship during the Sabbath. No excess of any kind will on any day, but more especially on that day, be permitted. 9th.-All the stewards and servants of every description are to keep themselves clean and decently dressed, under pain of dismissal. 10th.-Heavy baggage is not allowed in the berths. Pas- sengers are specially requested to select for their use during the voyage, trunks, portmanteaus, or boxes that are of a moderate size and readily moveable. Heavy baggage will be put into a baggage-room, to which access can be had when it may be wanted, and at convenient times. The Company do not hold themselves liable for any damage or loss of baggage, nor for unavoidable delay, accidents, fire, steam, or sea risks of any kind whatever. llth.— Each After-cabin Passenger has a separate berth. No berth or cabin can be occupied by a passenger without application to the agent on shore or to the captain on board. 12th.—No transfer of accommodation in the steamers by an individual who has taken his passage to one who has not taken his passage, will be permitted, without leave first obtained. 13th.- In case of any negligence, inattention or impro- priety on the part of any of the servants, or any other ground for dissatisfaction, passengers are particularly re- quested to give notice immediately to the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances, and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by letter, addressed to the Secretary. (By Order of the Court of Directors), E. CHAPPELL, Secretary. 55, Moorgate Street, London. May 1st, 1844. 1 ( x ) Wines, Spirits, Malt Liquors, Sc. Are charged for at the following rates, on board the Ships. Port.. SHERRY }.......... Quarts..3s. Pints..ls. 60. } Pints..9d. MADEIRA,.. Quarts..4s. Pints.. 2s. · Pints..ls. s Quarts.. 4s. | Pints. 2s. CLARET CHAMPAGNE s Quarts..4s. | Pints.. 2s. Носк s Quarts..4s. | Pints. . 2s. Quarts..3s. Moselle.. Dinasts. 13.Cod. SAUTERNE s Quarts..3s. | Pints..ls. 60. Ş Pints.. 2s. Glass ..60. SPIRITS Ale and Porter Quarts..ls. | Pints..60. Glass of Port, Sherry, or MADEIRA, 4d. Iceing and Sweetening, per glass Sweetening only ...... 3d. . 21. ( xvi) 1 FREIGHT OF SPECIE. 1 Any distance exceeding 3000 miles, and de- liverable at the Bank of England 1x per Cent. Exceeding 2500 miles, and not above 3000 1 1000 2500 Not exceeding 1000 miles } No sums under 5000 dollars are to be conveyed, however short the distance, at a lower rate than į per Cent. ; but when large amounts are to be remitted to places within 500 miles the Captain or Agent may make special agreement with the Shipper, and no Package is to be taken at a less Freight than 5 dollars. T. Tables of the Routes to de- termine the distances. Cochineal, Indigo, and Gum. 1d. per lb. Quicksilver on value Jewellery-under 1500 miles 1. 2 2 per Cent. over 77 FREIGHT FOR PARCELS. Under One Cubic Foot Measurement 10s. 6d. Above One, and under Three, Cubic Feet 21s. Od. Above Three Cubic Feet, per Foot 7s, Od. Periodical Publications, Quarterlies, or Pamphlets.... 3s. Od, each. Ditto Monthlies Is. 6d. Boxes, or closed parcels, can be taken for the British Possessions. Periodical Publications, with the covers open at both ends, will be taken for all parts. It is requested that parcels will be sent to the London Office, five days before the date of sailing, but they can FREIGHT OF PARCELS. xvii. be received until 3 o'clock two days previous to the vessel's departure, after which time they must be forwarded to the Company's Agent at Southampton, at the shipper's expense. The value and contents of each package must be stated. No Parcels to contain Letters, Bills, or Money. In all cases the above Charges must be paid before Shipment. No Parcels (except Passengers' Luggage) will be re- ceived on board any of the Company's Packets, but from the Agents at each Port. Parcels arriving from Places abroad will be lodged in the Custom House, Southampton ; from whence they will bave to be retired by the parties to whom they may be addressed. N.B.—This Company will not be responsible for the Act of God, the Queen's Enemies, Fire on shore or afloat, or any other Damages or Accidents of the Seas, Rivers, and Steam Navigation. The Com- pany will not be answerable for any Package in case of any Loss, beyond the value of Five Pounds, unlesss by special Agreement. BY ORDER OF THE COURT OF DIRECTORS, EDWARD CHAPPELL, Secretary Lo on, ne, 1844. 6 POSTAL TABLE. 65 e Mails | Mails Postage, Time Time for Time Course PLACES. of the of the under out. Replies. home. of Post. 2nd. 17th. ounce. Days. Days. Days. Days. s. d. Antigua 1 1 10 25. 15 24; 65 Barbadoes 1 10 21 15 29 65a Bermuda 1 10 32 30 18 806 Carthagena 1 *2 3 324 98 38 80 Chagres 1 *1 0 34 5 80 Demerara.. 1 10 264 74 313 65 Dominica .. 1 10 24 15 253 65 Grenada 1 1 10 23 15 27 50 Guadaloupe 1 *1 5 25 15 25 65 Havana. *2 3 352 4 25 65 c Honduras. *1 0 46 2 463 95 Jacmel 1 1 *1 5 274 12 253 65 Jamaica . 1 1 2 288 8 281 65d La Guayra 1 *2 3 27 6 32 Martinique 1 *1 5 25 15 25 65 Madeira 1 *1 10 7 Montserrat 10 253 15 241 65 Nassau. 10 371 263 65 f Nevis 1 10 26 15 24 65 Porto Cabello 1*2 3 28 35 65 Porto Rico 1 *1 5 30 13 22 65 St. Jago de Cuba.. 1 1*2 3 31 2 32 65 St. Kitt's. 1 1 10 26 15 65 St. Lucia 1 1 10 24 15 26 65 St. Thomas 1 1 *1 5 27 15 23 50g St. Vincent 1 1 10 233| 15 264 65 Santa Martha 1 1*2 3 31 11] 371) 80 San Juan de Nicaragua 1 *2 3 36 43 80 Tampico *2 3 47 43 95 Tobago.. 10 23 | 12 293 65 Tortola 1 10 27 15 23 65 Trinidad 1 1 10 9 303 65 Vera Cruz *2 3 428| 172 343| 95 * Postage must be prepaid. a Bridgetown can correspond 15 days earlier b St. George's can correspond 30 days earlier. c 2nd only for Mails. Passengers can go via St. Thomas and Bermuda 40 days from England. d Town of Kingston, ls. postage. e 2nd from Grenada, or i7th via St. Thomas. f 2nd via Havana with Mails. Passengers can also go on 17th, via Bermuda. g St. Thomas (town) can correspond 15 days earlier. 65 251 (xix ) DETAIL OF ROUTES, PERFORMED BY THE Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. Table 1.-One steamer. Starting at 2 p.m. 2nd and 17th each month. N.B.-When the latter of these dates falls on a Sunday, the vessel sails on the following day. This steamer will proceed direct to Madeira, where she will remain about six hours or as much longer as may be required to replenish the coals to a quantity sufficient to last till the ship reaches Grenada. From Madeira the ship proceeds to Barbadoes, where she will land the out mails for that Island, wait one day for the return mails, and then proceed on to Grenada. This steamer will meet at Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes, the steamer from Grenada, where she will deliver to that steamer all the out mails and passengers for Tobago and Guiana, with which that steamer will proceed direct to Tobago and Demerara. At Grenada the out steamer will meet three steamers. To one of these will be delivered all mails for places specified in Table II. To another will be transferred all mails for places specified in Tables IV. and VII. To a third she will transfer the mails and passengers, Tables V., VI., X., and XI.; which three steamers will proceed on their respective routes : to the schooner bound to La Guayra, the steamer of 2nd of each month, will deliver all mails for the places specified in Table IX. XX DETAIL OF ROUTES. 1 TABLE II.-One steamer. Starting at 6 p.m. on the 25th day after the out mails leave Southampton, as shewn in Table I., this steamer having received all the mails and passengers proceeds to Trinidad, and at the appointed time receives home and intercolonial mails, with which she returns to Grenada. Here she meets the return steamer from Demerara, and delivers to her home and other mails proceeding northward, as shewn in Table IV.; and to the steamer waiting to proceed to Jamaica she delivers all mails going in that direction. Having received from these steamers all mails from Barbadoes, Tobago, and Guiana, she proceeds with them to Barbadoes, where she delivers all the intercolonial mails for that island, as shewn in Table I. ; she will receive from her all mails for Tobago and Guiana, and proceed with them direct. N.B.- Whatever may be the time of arrival of the out mails at Trinidad, this steamer must leave that place with the return mails precisely at 6 a.m. on the 23rd day after the 2nd and 17th of every month. Table III.-Starting at 6 p.m. on the 23rd day after the out mails leave Southampton. This steamer, having received on board at Barbadoes (as shewn in the remarks on Tables I. and II.) all mails for Tobago and Guiana, proceeds with them to Tobago and Demerara, where she remains till the appointed time, receives all return mails, and proceeds with them by Tobago to Grenada ; where she will await the arrival of the next steamer from Europe. Whenever the out mails do not arrive at Barbadoes or Grenada within the estimated time, this No. III. steamer is not to proceed on her route till five days after the appointed time; but in such case she must leave Demerara, on her return, on the same day as if no such delay had occurred. N.B.—Whatever may be the time of arrival of the out mails at Demerara, this steamer must leave that place with the return mails precisely at noon, on the 33rd day after the 2nd and 17th of every month; and when the tide does not suit for crossing the bar of the river, the ship can de- part two hours earlier or later at the discretion of the captain. DETAIL OF ROUTES. xxi Table IV.-Starting at 6 a, m, on the 24th day after the out mails leave Southampton. On the arrival of the steamer from Europe at Grenada, this steamer, receives all out, home, and other mails pro- ceeding northward, with which she proceeds to St. Thomas, exchanging mails at all the intermediate islands, as shewn in this table. At St. Thomas she delivers all the European mails either to the steamer proceeding for Fayal and South- ampton, or to the steamer proceeding to meet the homeward bound steamer at Bermuda. Having accomplished this, the steamer proceeds to deliver out or other mails at St. Juan's, Porto Rico; receives from thence intercolonial mails only, with which she returns to Grenada, exchanging mails at all intermediate places by the way, and remaining at Grenada till the arrival of the next out steamer. Whenever the out mails do not arrive at Grenada within the estimated time, the steamer proceeding on this No. IV. route, may be de- layed two days longer at Grenada, the time so lost being retrieved by curtailing the subsequent stoppages. TABLE V.-Starting at 6 a. m. on the 24th day after the out mails leave Southampton. On the arrival at Grenada of the steamer leaving South- ampton on the 2nd of each month, this steamer receives all mails for places specified in Tables V. and IX., as well as as any for St. Jago de Cuba and Nassau. With these she proceeds to Jacmel, remains long enough off that place to land and receive mails, after which she proceeds to Ja- maica, where she lands the mails for that island, and de- spatches those for St. Jago de Cuba by the Company's steamer: receives all mails proceeding towards Havana, Honduras, Mexico, Nassau, and Bermuda, from Jamaica and places in Table X., with which she goes on to Havana. At this place she will meet the steamer returning to England from Mexico, to which she delivers any mails for Nassau, Bermuda, &c. and also those for Honduras to the Company's schooner, Table XI., after which she proceeds to Vera Cruz, &c. as shewn in this Table. Having landed there the mails for that place and Mexico, she proceeds on to Tampico, where she exchanges mails, and remains five days for return mails or a longer period should it be ne- xxii DETAIL OF ROUTES. cessary thoroughly to effect all shipments, &c. returning to Vera Cruz in time to receive return mails from Mexico, so as to quit Vera Cruz exactly at the appointed time : she then returns to Havana, where she meets the next outward bound Mexican steamer, receives all mails for Nassau, Bermuda, and England, delivers any mails for Honduras to the Company's schooner; after which she proceeds on to Nassau, lands out and receives home mails, goes on to Bermuda, receives there from the St. Thomas steamer all the mails brought by her, and proceeds forth with to South- ampton. In the event of the steamer not arriving from St. Thomas with the windward island mails at the estimated time, this No. V. steamer is not to leave Bermuda for England till she has waited at least a week, to ensure that the mails in question shall not be left behind. Whenever the out mails do not arrive at Grenada within the estimated time, this No, V. ship may remain there for them till six days after the appointed time; but in such case she must depart from Vera Cruz as if no such delay had occurred. N. B. Whatever may be the time of arrival of the out mails at Vera Cruz, this steamer must leave that place with the return mails at 6 a. m. precisely, on the 61st day after the 2nd of each month. Table VI.-Starting at 6 a. m. on the 24th day after the out mails leave Southampton. On the arrival at Grenada of the outward mails leaving Southampton on the 17th of each month, this steamer, having received all those for this Table, and also those for Table X., with which she proceeds to Jacmel, exchanges mails there and goes on to Jamaica, where she lands the mails for that island, despatches those for Table X. by that steamer, after which she receives all mails for St. Jago de Cuba, and proceeds to that place. Here she will remain two clear days to receive mails, with which she returns to Jamaica, there takes on board all the mails for Eng- land or places to the eastward, thence to Jacmel, Porto Rico, and St. Thomas. Here she receives homeward mails from the steamer from Grenada, after which she pro- ceeds, via Fayal, to Southampton, as per Table No. VIII. Whenever the out mails do not arrive at Grenada within DETAIL OF ROUTES. xxiii the estimated time, this No. VI. ship may remain there for them till six days after the appointed time; but in such case she must depart from Jamaica as if no such delay had occurred. N. B. Whatever may be the time of arrival of the outward mails at Jamaica, this steamer must leave that place with the return mails precisely at noon, on the 37th day after the 17th of each month, TABLE VII.-Starting at 6 a.m. on the 44th day after the Jamaica out mails leave Southampton. This steamer having received at the appointed time all home and other mails from the steamers from Jamaica and Grenada, as well as from the schooner from La Guayra, proceeds to Bermuda, where she will find waiting the homeward-bound steamer, to which she delivers every- thing for Europe, and then proceeds as shewn in this Table, to Nassau, Havana, and Jamaica ; exchanging mails, &c. by the way. At Jamaica, she receives from the St. Jago de Cuba steamer all home and other mails proceeding eastward, and proceeds with them by Jacmel, Porto Rico, and St. Thomas. At St. Thomas she trans- fers her home mails to another steamer which proceeds with them to Bermuda. Whenever the steamer from Grenada does not reach St. Thomas with the homeward mails at the estimated time, this No. VII. steamer must not start for Bermuda till three days after that period; re- trieving the delay in such case by curtailing the subsequent stoppages, so as to leave Jamaica at the time appointed. Should this No. VII. steamer on arriving at Bermuda not meet there the steamer from Havana, she will coal complete, and after waiting seven days proceed to Southampton; but should the Mexican steamer arrive at Bermuda, after detaining this No. VII, steamer so long as to prevent her reaching Jamaica in time, by the way of Havana, she will, after delivering the home mails to the Mexican steamer, proceed direct to Jamaica so as to keep her appointed time. N.B.-Whatever may be the time of arrival of the out- ward mails at Jamaica, brought thither by the outward- bound Mexican steamer, as shewn in Table V., this steamer xxiv DETAIL OF ROUTES. must leave Jamaica with the replies to those out mails precisely at noon, on the 37th day after the 2nd of each month. Table VIII.-Starting at six a.m. on the 44th day after the Jamaica, &c., out mails leave Southampton. This steamer, having received from the Jamaica and Grenada steamers at St. Thomas all home mails, proceeds with them to Fayal and Southampton. Should the weather prevent communication with Fayal when the steamer reaches that island, she must extend her stoppage there till she can obtain coals sufficient to ensure reaching South- ampton under steam; but if there be sufficient coals on board she may omit altogether calling at Fayal. Should the steamers not arrive from Jamaica and Grenada, this steamer must not leave St. Thomas for Southampton till seven days after the appointed time. Table IX.-One schooner. Starting at 6 a.m. on the 24th day after the out mails leave Southampton, on the 2nd of each month.. This schooner having received at Grenada the mails from the steamer arrived from England, will proceed at the appointed time for her destination. Landing the out mails, &c., at La Guayra, for that place and the City of Caraccas, she proceeds to Porto Cabello, where she re- mains two clear days to receive return mails, then returns to La Guayra, receives home mails, &c., from that place and Caraccas, and proceeds to St. Thomas, where she delivers her mails to the homeward-bound steamer. When- ever it occurs that the out mails do not reach Grenada at the estimated time, this schooner must not depart on her route till five days beyond that period. Table X.-One steamer. Starting from Jamaica at 6 p.m. on the 29th day after the out mails leave Southampton, on the 17th of each month, for Santa Martha, &c.; also at 6 p.m. on the 31st day after the out mails leave Southamp- ton on the 2nd of each month for St. Jago de Cuba. This steamer, having at Jamaica received from No. VI. steamer out and other mails, will proceed with them as DETAIL OF ROUTES. XXV shewn in this Table to Santa Martha, &c. At St. Juan de Nicaragua she receives home mails, &c. and returns by the same route to Jamaica, where she is calculated to arrive in time to meet the outward Mexican steamer, to which she delivers mails for Europe; receives out mails with which she proceeds to St. Jago de Cuba, waits there for replies, and returns to Jamaica, where she delivers mails for Europe, St, Thomas, &c., to No. VII. steamer, after which she awaits the arrival of No. VI. steamer. Table XI.-One schooner. Starting at noon on the 36th day after the out mails leave Southampton, on the 2nd of each month. This schooner, having received at Havana from the steamer bound to Mexico all the mails for Honduras, pro- ceeds to Belize, remains two clear days there to receive return mails, &c., and then returns to Havana, where it is calculated she will arrive in ample time to meet each outward and homeward-bound Mexican steamer. When - ever the out mails do not arrive at Havana by the outward- bound Mexican steamer within the estimated time, this No Xl. schooner may remain there for them till six days after the appointed time; but in such case making all the despatch to and from Belize possible, so as to ensure arrival back at Havana to meet the homeward and next outward- bound Mexican steamers. ( xxvi ) RAILWAY TRAINS, STEAMERS, &c. 10, 5. Railway trains start from Southampton for London, at 2, 7, 9, 11, A.m., and 1, 3, and 6, P.M.; Sundays at 2, Railway trains arrive at Southampton from London, at 10, 121, 2, 4, 6, 81, and 11); Sundays at 2 and 9. Fares—first class, 20s.; second class, 14s. At ll, A.M. and 3, P.M. 21s.;-no second class train at these hours. There are repeated communications between Southampton and the Isle of Wight during the day, and also with Ports- mouth, by steam boats. With Havre three times a week, calling at Portsmouth one hour and a quarter after leaving Southampton, and performing the passage from thence in ten hours. Fares–Main Cabin, 21s.; Fore Cabin, 14s.; Carriages, £3; Horses, £3; Dogs, 5s. First class steamers, from Havre to Rouen, daily in six hours. Railway from Rouen to Paris at 6, 8, 11, 1, 3, and 6 o'clock. Ditto from Paris to Rouen at 7, 9, 11, 1, 3, and 5 o'clock. Fares—first class, 13s.; second class, 10s. 6d.; third class, 8s. For Guernsey and Jersey, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday evening at 7 o'clock, returning from the islands every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. Fares-Main Cabin, 258.; Second Cabin, 18s. ; Car- riages, £3; Horses, £3; Dogs, 5s. St. Malo and Granville from Jersey-Main Cabin, 10s.; Fore Cabin, 7s. The steamer will leave Jersey for St. Malo every Wed- nesday, after the arrival of the steamer from Southampton, returning on the following day; also to Granville every Friday, returning every Saturday. Fares from Guernsey to Jersey–Main Cabin, 4s.; Fore Cabin, 2s. 6d. Steam vessels maintain a direct communication between Southampton, Falmouth, Plymouth and Dublin, without calling at any intermediate ports, and sail from South- RAILWAY TRAINS, STEAMERS, ETC. xxvii ampton, every Thursday, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon ; to Southampton from Dublin every Wednesday; Ditto from Falmouth, every Friday, 8 o'clock morning; Ditto from Plymouth, every Friday, 4 o'clock afternoon. Fares-Southampton to Plymouth, 258.; to Falmouth, 35s.; to Dublin, 37s. 6d. ; in best Cabin, including stew- ard's fees. Conveyances and Fares to and from the Terminus to all parts of Southampton. Flys, (one horse,) luggage included, to the Pier, and all below the Bar, ls. To any part above Bar, or within the boundaries of the town, Is. 6d. To Highfield and Ports- wood, 2s. 6d. Two-horse Flys, sixpence extra. Barrowmen and Porters, to the Pier, and all below the Market, ls. To above the Market and within the Bar, Is. 6d. To above the Bar and within the Turnpike, 2s. Double Barrows or Trucks, sixpence extra. Omnibuses, to any Hotel, and all parts of the town, 6d. each person ; except to and from the Mail Trains, ls. each. COACHES. To Portsmouth, daily, at Twelve o'clock, Two o'clock, and half-past Five. To Poole, at half-past Five, and Twelve at night. To Lymington, at Six in the morning, and half-past Five in the evening. To Weymouth ( Magnet) at half-past Eleven. To Exeter, at half-past Eleven, and Nine in the evening. To Bath and Bristol (Mail) at half-past Nine at night, through Romsey, Salisbury, Warminster, and Frome. To Brighton (Mail) every morning at Ten. To Oxford, mornings at Ten, through Newbury. Note. We have seen an invention, at Messrs. Maynard and Harris's, 27, Poultry, admirably contrived for Travelling, a light Iron Bedstead is ingeniously introduced into the back of one of a pair of Trunks, occupying only two inches of space, and we are told that it adds no more than volbs. to the weight.-See their Advertisement. ( xxviii) FOREIGN CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. MEXICO. The following is from the Tariff published 5th October, 1843. The following goods shall be free from all duties, in whatever vessel they may be imported :- 1 Wire for carding 2 Exotic animals, alive or dissected 3 Quicksilver 4 Coals (whilst the mines of the Republic are not worked) 5 Mineralogical and geological collections 6 Precious articles of natural history 7 Sketches and models in relief of machines, edifices, and vessels 8 Bricks and clay for foundry ovens 9 Printing types 10 Printed books sewed and bound; printed and manu- script music- 11 Geographical, topographical, and nautical maps 12 Machines, apparatus, and instruments for the sciences 13 Machines and apparatus for agriculture, mining, or arts, excluding alembics which be not of recent invention. In this, as well as in the anterior classi- fication, it is understood by machines, all things artificially wrought and composed of various pieces, adapted for physical experiments, and for the exer- cise of the chemical affinities of all bodies, let them be solid, liquid, gaseous, or imponderable; that is to say, want of all sensible weight. Articles which may be sold separately, as raw iron, oil, cloth, felts, and leather, &c., although accompanying the ma- chinery, shall be subject to the payment of duties. FOREIGN CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxix 14 Collections of ancient and modern medals, of all metals, sulphur, or pasteboard 15 Timber for masting 16 Exotic plants, and their seed 17 All kinds of vessels for nationalization 18 Linen rags 19 Printing ink HAYTI. The following regulations have lately been enacted by the Government of Hayti, having taken effect from 11th Sep- tember, 1843. The tonnage duty beretofore exacted on foreign vessels, at one dollar Spanish per ton, is increased to two dollars Spanish per ton. All foreign vessels going from one port to another, in this island, will pay for each port visited, an additional duty of 8100 Haytian currency on vessels under 150 tons. Vessels from 150 to 200 tons to pay $150. - Vessels of 200 tons and upwards to pay 200 Haytian dollars. The duties on wharfage and weighage of merchandise imported, are increased to double their former rates. The “ territorial” duty on exports is still in force ; but the duty of exportation is reduced, which reduces the ex- port duty on coffee from 820, Haytian currency, per 1000 pounds, to 812. Cocoa, from 10 to 84 per 1000 pounds. Tobacco in leaf from 815 per 1000 pounds to 85. Log- wood from 87 per 1000 pounds to 82. Mahogany from 22 to 812 per 1000 cubic feet. Hides of all kinds are free of export duty. The wharfage and the weighage and measuring are to be added to the foregoing quantities as follows :-On coffee, one dollar; cocoa, one dollar ; tobacco, one dollar; log- wood, one dollar, mahogany, one dollar: all Haytian currency. Hides are charged one cent Haytian each. The present value of a Haytian dollar is two-fifths of a Spanish or American silver dollar, or sixty per cent. below par. XXX FOREIGN CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. LA GUAYRA, &c. The following articles are allowed free of duty on importation. Mathematical instruments, books, maps, samples or pat- terns, and other articles not subject to duty, can be taken by the Royal Mail Steamers. HAVANA, April, 1844. All Spanish products imported from the Peninsula in Spanish Bottoms (except four, which pays 20 rials per bbl.) are subject to a duty of 61 p: on the valuations in the Tariff.-All kinds of machinery and implements for sugar mills, steam engines for sugar estates, are free of duty-Agricultural machinery and implements pay 24 p : ad val. Extract of Custom Regulations : -Every ship-master is bound to have on his arrival ready for delivery to the boarding officers of the revenue, a manifest containing a detailed statement of his cargo and ship stores, and in the act of handing it over has to write thereon the oath that he has no other cargo on board and the hour when he delivers it, taking care that it be countersigned by the boarding officers. Within twelve hours, which, begin to count from the moment he delivers such manifest until 7 o'clock in the evening, and again from 6 o'clock in the morning until the moment the said twelve hours elapse, he can make any alteration by presenting a separate note, in which he specifies the errors he may have committed in the manifest: after the expiration of the twelve hours no altera- tion will be permitted. Goods not manifested will be con- fiscated without remedy, and if their value should not exceed 81000, the master of the vessel will be liable to pay a penalty of double the amount of such non-manifested goods : if they exceed that sum, and belong to the master or come consigned to him, his vessel, freight, and other FOREIGN CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxxi emoluments will be forfeited to the revenue. Goods over manifested will pay duties as if they were on board. Goods not manifested but claimed in time by a consignee, will be delivered up to the latter, but the master in this case will be subject to a fine equal in amount to that of such goods. Gold and silver not manifested by either master or consignee, are liable to a duty of 4 po. Goods falling short of the quantity manifested, when landed, and not being included in any invoice of consignee, will render the master liable to a penalty of 8200 for each package so falling short. Every master must present himself within twenty-four hours after his arrival, at the custom-house, in order to swear to his manifest; in neglect of which he is liable to a fine of 81000. Every consignee is obliged to present a detailed note of goods within forty-eight hours after the arrival of a vessel, if not, such goods are liable to 2 p: extra duty; the same is the case if such notes do not contain a statement of the number of pieces, contents, quantity, weight and measure. Every vessel is required to bring a bill of health certified by the Spanish Consul at the port of her departure, or that nearest to it, otherwise they are placed in quarantine. 1 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE, &c. &c. PARTIES intending to proceed by the Royal Mail Steamers, are recommended to apply, either by letter, addressed to Captain Chappell, Secretary, or personally, at the office of the Company, 55, Moor- gate Street, London, at least a fortnight previously; at which time the name of the next steamer is gene- rally known, or, if not then known, the address of parties is registered, and they are duly informed by post afterwards. This early application is strongly recommended, as a choice of berths can then be made, which may materially conduce to the comfort of the passenger during the voyage. The berths in these steamers are fitted up with every attention to comfort. Each after-cabin passenger has a separate cabin, which contains, besides the bed, a chest of drawers, wash-hand stand, &c., and is large enough also to contain any personal luggage the passenger may require during the voyage; and he can have access, at times, to his heavy luggage, which is stowed away down below deck, on application to the Captain or Ship's Clerk. B 2 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The berth is not considered engaged until the whole fare is paid. The ticket then issued specifies the number of the berth, and secures it to the pas- senger during the voyage. Heavy baggage should be at Southampton two clear days before the sailing of the ships; and in that case should leave London on the 15th and 29th of each month, addressed to the care of Mr. G. Dunlop, 79, High Street, South- ampton, General Shipping Agent, who is also the Company's Custom House Agent. All packages intended for use on the voyage should be distinctly marked so, and in transmitting advice of their dis- patch to Mr. Dunlop, the numbers of the berths engaged should be stated, in which case due care will be taken that the packages so marked are placed in the proper berths. Passengers may leave London by the train from Vauxhall at five p.m. on the afternoon of the day previous to the sailing of the ship; and on arriving at the Southampton station, at half-past eight, p.m. they will find omnibuses and flys to convey them to any hotel in town. There is also a train at half-past eight, p. m., from Vauxhall, arriving at Southamp- ton at midnight; but passengers coming by this train should write, the day previous, to the hotels to secure beds. Passengers might come down, and be in time, should their baggage have been previously forwarded by the train that leaves Vauxhall on the day the ship sails at seven a.m. or nine a.m.; but for convenience and comfort, the previous evening's trains are strongly recommended. The Company's steam tender, Victoria, conveys passengers, and any small article of personal luggage, DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 3 from the pier to the ship at ten minutes to one o'clock on the day of sailing, free of expense to the passengers. But as it is not always certain that pas- sengers can catch the small steamer by the nine o'clock train from London, they are recommended to go down to Southampton by the previous evening's trains, by which they will have ample time to make all their arrangements before the Victoria starts. As the large steamers, on the morning of sailing, are moored about five miles below the town, to ex- pedite the dispatch of the mails, passengers are strongly recommended to be in time for the Victoria, but if too late they must hire a boat which will cost three shillings each person, at the least. Passengers arriving from France and proceeding by the West India Steamers, have, till lately, been permitted to tranship their baggage from one steamer to the other without examination; but in consequence of the large number of letters taken out in this way to the injury of the Post Office revenue, all foreign baggage must now undergo a partial examination by an officer, at the passenger's expense, and for this purpose application should be made to Mr. Dunlop immediately on the passenger arriving from the continent. The most commodious hotels adjoining the quay, and custom-house, are the “Sun, Castle,” and “Royal George.” Families residing at Southampton for any time, will find superior accommodation at the “ Royal Hotel” (Matcham) and the “Dolphin.” The large steamer having received her mails and passengers, about three p.m. proceeds direct to Ma- deira, calling no longer at Falmouth or Corunna. B2 4 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. AT SEA. The ship has left the land “tight, staunch, and strong.” Probably it is winter, and the westerly winds drive in from the wide Atlantic the long swell of deep-blue water; and the ship, as she breasts these heaving billows, groans and creaks through the whole of her mighty frame. Every one reels and totters, there is no rest on deck,—to bed with the sick. Discomfort prevails; and many times do some lament they had ever come on board. Every sense is offended, and tempers are sorely tried. So it is another day, and another night, and the Bay of Biscay has many a heavy heart on its “still- vexed,” bosom. But will you not try to come on deck? Although the sea is yet rough, the morning is fine and beau- tiful; you will see something well worth your atten- tion. Do come: struggle with your sickness:-half of it is because you yield to it. Turn your thoughts from your own discomfort, by looking on something to interest you. Wrap up well,—don't mind appear- ances. moun- Now we are on deck: you are not the first to get out. See that Spanish lady with red handkerchief over her hair and shawl on her shoulders, how she claps her hands and shouts with joy at the “ tanious” waves. And are they not magnificent! not like the waves in the channel, discoloured, and broken, and fretted by the many obstructions, these are each a long, deep-blue line or ridge of massive water, coming on without break or partition in their irresistible force, swooping down as if to engulph us; AT SEA. 5 but be not afraid. Pause one moment and you will see how art triumphs. Steady your feet, and let us watch this third wave,—it is the largest. Now it comes looking with its top curved as if it would surely swallow us in its briny gulph. How majestic and irresistible in its course is this high ridge of measureless water. But fear not, already you per- ceive we rise to meet it, and now it comes bearing the heavy ship high on its bosom, and, swelling up to near the nettings at our feet, gradually subsides and recedes at the other side, to rise again in its turn. And the ship glides on, faster than before, in the trough left by the receding wave. Now let us stand as far aft as we can, even to the taffrail, and looking forward to the very bowsprit, mark the long, beautiful line of the deck. There is no poop or quarter-deck to break the even lines or seams, that carry your eye to the very bows. Note how gracefully the noble ship dallies and bends to the surge—like a coy bride, fearing, though anxious for her lover's approach. She bends and sways with easy, graceful motion, and nobly rides over all with- out allowing a drop of green water to suffuse her deck. How beautiful a machine is this magnificent ship, and how like a god is man who can create such a machine, so complete, so perfectly applicable to his purposes ! Aye, for a time you had lost your sickness in your wonder; and is not a scene like this worth coming out to see ? Stay-at-home travellers may sit and imagine other scenes, but no imagination can reach reality here. Another night, and we have reached the latitude of Lisbon. What a delicious change in the weather 6 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. and in our feelings ! The weather, that had been squally with snow and sleet, is now genial and warm, and the sun shines out with gladness. It seems as though during the night we had passed into another hemisphere, so complete is the change. No fires are needed in the saloons now; cloaks are discarded, and crowds of passengers are on the deck whom we had not seen before. All are trying to walk the seams; and the Spanish lady as she attempts and fails, shouts with laughter, and her clear, brilliant voice rings out high over all. Now you can with more comfort admire the waves; you have already almost “ got your sea-legs on,” and can walk without danger of falling. And notice the sea-birds as they fly past, or accompany the ship, how graceful are their movements. What is it you ask? " When will dinner be ready ?” You have got your appetite then ? Ah, you now can know the delight of the senses, for they have lain dormant for days. The dinner! Never did alderman know the true relish, the ravishment of eating, who has not been a voyage across “the Bay,” and, after three days' sickness, sat down with reinvigorated appetite to a dinner fit for a lord mayor. This haunch of mutton, the steward says, has hung over the ship's rail fif- teen days; it is roasted to a turn-how delicious it eats. Every one is busy. After dinner comes the dessert, and the toasts of “ the Captain,” and “the Directors, and success to their undertaking, are received with acclamation. And yet another toast, which our happy-looking friend yonder has risen to propose. Ah, ladies!" how is it we had forgotten them ? He " the AT SEA. 7 are notes the neglect and claims his privilege, as an Irishman, to be their proposer. Refreshed and invigorated after dinner, we again on deck, and the sea is becoming more and more smooth, the air more warm, and the moon, though young, is shedding a bright lustre on all around. See how high above us she is, almost to the zenith, —so high, that she scarce casts our sha- dows on the deck. Singing! Yes, that clear joyous voice of the Spanish lady again fills the ear. She sings some of Bellini's sweet and tender songs. And now another and another: men's voices, these chime in. How delicious, in this clear fresh air, —with our senses not only returned, but returned with renewed enjoyment and keener relish,—is this evening song, the song of the happy heart and pensive feeling. What a beautiful world is this, if we could always enjoy it thus! ( 8 ) MADEIRA. On leaving Southampton the steamers proceed direct to Madeira, which is reached in six or seven days; the distance is about 1280 miles. The land when first seen-it may be the first sight of foreign land to many of the passengers—seems a huge black castle rising directly out of the sea, with its walls dilapidated, and its turrets and towers in demolition; but as the steamer gracefully rounds the eastern point of land, the scene is strikingly beautiful. “The eye paused,” says a writer in the Monthly Repository of 1834, “ fascinated, as it rose upwards from the town and took in the white dwellings, fairy temples, elfin cottages, and sprite cells, that sat upon the mountain side; so small, so elegant, so airy, did they all appear: the builders must have been workmen from the world of spirits; they were the houses of Lilliput. It was the hugeness of the mountain which, to my unaccustomed sense, gave to the buildings those diminutive and fairy-like pro- portions; and the trees, too, belonged to Oberon's own forest; and the shrubs were of Titania's garden. There, upon a turning ridge in the hill, one stood out against the light, and yet preserved its Lillipu- tianism; another, nestled in a hollow, was the snug retreat of some six-inch sage, shut out from the world. And everywhere the green, gliding off into brown and deeper shades or brighter hues, told spring, summer, and autumn had their home there, together and for ever. Craving still, and feeding MADEIRA. 9 still unsated, the gaze was called to a hundred points of beauty and fascination in a moment, and re- velled bewilderingly on all; till, taking in the whole of the grandeur, and magnificence, and fairiness, of the uptowering and outlaid bulk of the mountain, the soul said- This is sublime.' “ Nor was the town of Funchal without its novelty. Houses all so un-English; all white, steeples and turrets shooting up above the flat roofs, and all si- lently smiling under the sun's light; the boats with their high pointing sterns and gaudily coloured bows, a big eye looking out of each, or a bunch of flowers on each side washed by the spray, as they lay wob- bling near the surfy beach; the men standing to row, with their faces to the boat's stern. And that genial richness of the climate, the temperature, was alone sufficient to satisfy and repay every excited fancy or previous discomfort. Midsummer voluptuousness was in the air; and a few days before I had been shi- vering in the snow and sleet. Here all was glow and free elasticity: no buttoning up, no muffling of the body to exclude the cold blast and the snow, but jacket discarded, and neck bared to taste fully the fanning breeze through the sun's heat. People ought to be happy here,' I thought.” “I should think,” remarks another writer, author of “Six Months in the West Indies," and of whom we shall have to borrow as we proceed, “I should think the situation of Madeira the most enviable in the whole earth. It ensures almost every European comfort, together with almost every tropical luxury. Any degree of temperature may be enjoyed between Funchal and the Ice House. The seasons are the youth, maturity, and old age of a never-ending still- MADEIRA. 11 There is one good hotel and several respectable boarding-houses; furnished houses may also be had at a rent varying according to size and conveniences, from three hundred to one thousand dollars (£60 to £100), for six months. The charge in the boarding- houses is from forty to fifty dollars per month. There is good water in the island, and an abundance of fish and vegetables. Families going to Madeira, with the intention of taking a furnished house, are recommended to take their own house linen and plate, and, if for an invalid, an arm chair. The island does not admit of any wheel carriages being used. The modes of conveyance are on horse- back or in palankeens and hammocks; the price of bire for the latter, with two men, is about half a dollar per hour. Good saddle-horses are to be had on hire, at very moderate charges, by the hour, day, or month. The prevailing religion is the Roman Catholic; but there is an Episcopal chapel and a Presbyterian place of worship. There are some Portuguese schools supported by Government. A club, called the Funchalense, with reading, card, and billiard-rooms, is much frequented. Ad- mission is obtained through the introduction of mem- bers. Balls are given by the club six times in the year. Madeira is not considered a colony of Portugal, but a province of that kingdom, and sends two de- puties to the Cortes at Lisbon. It is now necessary for parties to take a passport on visiting the island, which is to be obtained of Mr. Vanzeller, Portuguese Consul General, 15, St. Mary Axe, at the cost of five shillings each; or at 12 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Southampton, of Mr. Priaulx, at the cost of ten shillings each. Parties must be introduced. They must provide themselves also with a passport on leaving Madeira, which is obtained of the British Consul, George Stoddart, Esq., at the expense of four dollars, sixty cents (£l sterling), for either an individual or family, and without personal attendance. Besides the West India steamers, there are also sailing vessels that are fitted for passengers to and from London and Madeira. The charge by these is about the same as by the steamers. The West India steamers do not call at Madeira coming home, but last year the Royal Tar steamer was sent out about the beginning of June, to bring home such as desired to return to England. She made two trips from Madeira to Gibraltar, delivering her passengers to the Peninsular steamers there, and one trip direct home. There are several English physicians, residents in the island; of these Doctors Renton, Ross, Brough- ton and M‘Kellar are the most eminent. Sir James Clark, Bart., in his valuable work “On the Sanative Influence of Climate,” has written fully on the beneficial effects of the climate of Madeira, particularly on those who are liable to pulmonary con- sumption. He writes: :-“Madeira has been long held in high estimation for the mildness and equa- bility of its climate, and we shall find on comparing this with the climate of the most favoured situations on the continent of Europe, that the character is well founded. “The mean annual temperature of Funchal is 64°, being about 5° only above that of the Italian and Provençal climates. This very moderate mean tem- MADEIRA. 13 perature arises from the summer at Madeira being proportionally cool. For, while the winter is 20% warmer than at London, the summer is only 7° warmer; and while the winter is 12° warmer than in Italy and Provence, the summer is nearly 5º cooler. The mean annual range of temperature is only 14°, being less than half the range of Rome, Pisa, Naples, and Nice.” Nearly the same quantity of rain falls annually at Madeira as at Rome and Florence, but at Madeira there are only 73 days on which any rain falls, while at Rome there are 117. The rain at Madeira falls at particular seasons, chiefly in the autumn, leaving the atmosphere in general dry and clear during the remainder of the year. From this comparative view of the climate of Ma- deira, it must be readily perceived, how great the advantages are which this island presents to certain invalids over the best climates on the continent of Europe. It is warmer during the winter and cooler during the summer; there is less difference between the temperature of the day and night, between one season and another, and between successive days; it is almost exempt from keen, cold winds, and enjoys a general steadiness of weather to which the best of these places are strangers. Sir J. Clark is also of opinion that a sea-voyage is generally beneficial in the early stage of consump- tion. The sickness and vomiting are highly useful in many cases, and the increasing motion of a ship, by the constant exercise it produces, is also very advantageous. He quotes Dr. Heineken, who him- self resided at Madeira in consequence of a pulmonary complaint, on the great benefit that the pulmonary 14 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. invalid would receive by a residence during the whole year in Madeira. Dr. Heineken found that he rather retrograded during winter, but always gained ground during the summer. “Could I enjoy for a few years, he observes, “a perpetual Madeira summer, I should confidently anticipate the most beneficial results.” He also recommends such patients, of which he was one, to pass the winter in the West Indies and the summer at Madeira. This can now be done with comfort and regularity by means of the West India steamers that call every fortnight, all the year through, at Madeira, on their way to the West Indies, Mexico, &c. The vine was first introduced from Crete in 1421. The Wines of Madeira have been in more repute in England than they now are. Sherry wine has, in a great measure, superseded them. This arose from the adulteration practised in the preparation of Ma- deira wines. It is difficult, however, to imagine that adulteration was ever practised to a greater extent upon Madeira, than it is now practised on Sherry. It is not, therefore, improbable that a reaction may take place in favour of Madeira. The quantity entered for home consumption in Great Britain in 1827, amounted to 308,295 gallons, whereas the quantity entered for home consumption in 1833, only amounted to 161,042 gallons; and the duty paid in 1843 was only on 69,906 gallons, and in 1842 on 51,513 gallons, showing, however, an encrease in 1843 over 1842 of 17,393 gallons. Each vineyard is divided by a walk about two yards wide, bounded by low stone walls. Along these walks, arched over with laths about seven feet high, they erect wooden pillars at equal distances to support MADEIRA. 15 a lattice-work of bamboos, which slopes down from both sides of the walk till it is only two feet high. The vines are in this manner supported from the ground, and the workmen have room to root out the weeds between them. In the season of the vintage, they crawl under the lattice-work, gather the grapes and lay them in baskets. It is this mode of keeping and drying the grapes in the shade, that gives the Madeira wines that fulness and richness of flavour which they possess. Malmsey, a very luscious species of the Madeira, is made from grapes grown on rocky grounds, ex- posed to the full influence of the sun's rays, and allowed to remain on the vine till they are over-ripe. ( 16 ) THE ATLANTIC. Ar Madeira a few hours suffice to exchange the mails and passengers, and the noble ship is again cleaving her way to the New World. To those passengers who for the first time have attempted a long sea voyage, the strangeness of the sailor's life has now become pleasurable. The air is balmy, the pulse quickens, the spirits are alive to all things with a keener relish. Meals, that before were turned from with loathing, are sought with anti- cipated pleasure; every sense is joy. Each passen- ger finds his fellow-passenger more agreeable as the cold conventionalisms of the world fail off. And then what fresh interest in all around!-the deep, the air, the sky. Those denizens of the water, how beautifully free and exquisitely graceful are their glad movements, as they play across the bows of the ship! What a suitable - habitation" have they~ -Marvellously plann'd For life to occupy in love and rest. How fresh the morning breeze; how gorgeous the setting sun, and serene the coming on of evening mild, when stars—more bright than those that shine in our cloudy sky—send down their piercing rays. Onward ploughs the giant ship. What to her are the winds! She heeds them not. The waves! they are but her highway. Onward she goes,-untiring, un- resting, with steady purpose. THE ATLANTIC. 17 What to us, in this noble ship, were the fears, the superstitions, the terrors, of those who accom- panied that man who first sought, through these waters, the New World. Who, with firm faith, on that eventful third of August, 1492, pushed off his three small ships—one only of which was completely decked—to seek that New World which had for years existed in his thought, and flourished in his imagi- nation. We are not to be terrified by fancied shrieks in the wind, or of hostile hosts imaged in the clouds. The change in the direction of the compass does not fill us with dread, nor do we suppose that the masses of sea-weed that may compass us around, are sent by spirits of evil to bar our approach. To us these things are as idle dreams. But they were strong and fearful realities to those lone men in their little ships who first entered these seas. They were realities to all but him whose firmness, decision, and indomitable will led them on, in firm trust in that God whose religion he sought to establish in a world unknown. “ David was once a shepherd,” said Columbus, “and I serve the same God who placed him on a throne.” As we draw near Barbadoes, and, in the cer- tainty on the morrow of entering our haven, let us meditate what must have been his thoughts and feelings, when, after many years of contest and delay, and among his superstitious crew, he stood in the noon of night, on his vessel's deck, and for the first time, saw a moving light on shore: с 18 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Chosen of men! 'Twas thine, at noon of night, First from the prow to hail the glimmering light; (Emblem of truth divine, whose secret ray Enters the soul, and makes the darkness day.) “Pedro! RODRIGO! there, methought it shone! There in the west! and now, alas, 'tis gonel- 'Twas all a dream; we gaze and gaze in vain ! But mark and speak not; there it comes again,- It moves!-what form unseen, what being there With torch-like lustre fires the murky air? His instincts, passions, say, how like our own? Oh! when will day reveal a world unknown ?” ROGERS. CLIMATE,-HEALTH. It may not be out of place here to add some few remarks on the climate of the West Indies, its in- fluence on invalids, the most favourable season for arrival, and a few precautionary words to travellers from Europe. It is admitted that at particular seasons the climate in some parts is unhealthy, and from the unfavour- able situations of most of the towns, the mortality is great, as in the Havana and Vera Cruz; but there are other parts which can always be resorted to, while in the mountainous districts almost an Euro- pean climate may be obtained. We would instance the windward islands from Barbadoes to St. Thomas, and the Danish island of Santa Cruz. In these is- lands the temperature varies but slightly, ranging between 78° F. and 82°, but in the higher parts even 60° has been registered. Throughout these islands little sickness ever prevails, and many persons may be found who have resided there without any ill CLIMATE, -HEALTH. 19 effects for forty years. Jamaica is not generally so free from sickness; but this may be accounted for from the numerous shipping, and the irregularity of living in all sea-port towns; for, sickness in the West Indies is owing more to imprudence of living, than to the climate,-a fact that is represented in all medical works treating of tropical diseases. The interior of Jamaica is healthy, and a temperature of 58° is observed in the mountains. Under these circumstances we are inclined to believe that the climate is not naturally unhealthy; and we trust that the name of West Indies will no longer strike terror into the ear of Europeans. Its beneficial influence on invalids is a subject which merits considerable attention. Consumption and nervous diseases have yielded to a residence of more or less length in the islands named. Grenada presents every attraction, a fine and unvarying cli- mate, magnificent scenery, and the grand foliage of the tropics. Santa Cruz, one of the finest islands in the West Indies, well cultivated even to the highest lands, presents the picture of a perfect gar- den. Here, to all the beauties of nature, are added good roads from one end of the island to the other; and the hospitality of the Danish inhabitants, whose habits and feelings much resemble the English, united with comfortable residences, render this one of the most desirable places of resort. Many Ame- rican invalids frequent this island, and they give most favourable reports of the beneficial influence of its climate. It is admitted that to enjoy the full benefit of change of climate the patient should make the change in the early stage of disease, and stay there c 2 20 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. till permanent benefit is obtained. The advantages to be derived from a residence in the tropics are more rapid and lasting than in a climate like the Azores which is humid, and variable in its tempe- rature. And for incipient consumption, a residence in the tropics is more strongly recommended than any other climate. The subject is worthy of deep consideration to those whose dearest hopes and wishes are often frustrated when brightest, and whose feelings in after life would be soothed by the consoling reflection of having saved the life of a husband, wife, or child, by a timely and well-chosen change of residence. The period for arrival is of much moment. The finest season is from October to June, as this interval is free from the torrents which fall in the intermediate time, and then com- mences what is called the unhealthy season. The effect of a tropical climate upon Europeans is a subject too lengthy to enter fully upon here, and must be left to medical writers, as it is intimately connected with disease. Speaking generally, the effect of the climate is to produce great perspiration, which, although unpleasant, must not be checked, but rather encouraged. This is done by wearing thin flannel jackets next the skin, and not too light clothing. Attempting to remove the annoyance of the perspiration by checking it has caused many a fever and early death. Indeed, flannel jackets, and light calico drawers should always be worn as under clothing. Old residents know the advantages of this plan, and the safety to be derived from its continuance. The mode of living should be regular but gene- rous; excess, as also a too abstemious diet, should be avoided. The greatest attention must be paid CLIMATE, -HEALTH. 21 to the alimentary secretions, as a disordered state of the bowels is the first indication of tropical disease. We would impress particularly upon Europeans, that too much attention cannot be paid to these matters; for the constitution undergoes a decided change from the change of climate. As perspiration is great, it follows that much thirst results. The difficulty now occurs, how is this to be satisfied? All heating drinks must be avoided, as Sherry and Port wine; but light wines may be taken, as Claret, Hock, Sauterne, &c.; and very weak brandy and water, which is not unwhole- some, but promotes and sustains perspiration. It only remains for us to add, that regularity of living is the grand secret of health, and attention to the foregoing observations will most assuredly preserve it. Sir James Clark writes thus of the invalid; and his caution may be observed with advantage by all. “On approaching the tropics, when about the 24th or 25th degree of latitude, where the tempe- rature ranges from 70° to 80°, a degree of general ex- citement is very often experienced, with a disposition to catarrhal affections, which demands particular at- tention on the part of the invalid labouring under any chronic pulmonary disease. "The proper means to prevent any injurious effects from the increase of temperature, is to live somewhat more abstemiously than usual, and upon less exciting food. The quantity of wine generally drunk should be diminished, or it may be advisable to abstain from wine altogether. Long exposure to the direct rays of the sun should also be avoided. Attention to these circumstances, with the use of a little cooling laxative medicine, will generally be all 22 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. that is necessary on arriving in the West Indies. For some time afterwards, a continuance of the same simple, unexciting regimen should be persevered in, in order that the system may become habituated to the exciting influence of a high temperature, and until the increased cutaneous secretion, which ap- pears to be one of the principal means employed by nature to enable the living body to bear the heat of a tropical climate without injury, is fully established.” “The Englishman in Jamaica,” observes Professor Liebig in his Animal Chemistry, “sees with regret the disappearance of his appetite, previously a source of frequently recurring enjoyment; and he succeeds by the use of cayenne pepper and the most powerful stimulants, in enabling himself to take as much food as he was accustomed to eat at home. But the whole of the carbon thus introduced into the system is not consumed; the temperature of the air is too high, and the oppressive heat does not allow him to increase the number of respirations by active exer- cise, and thus to proportion the waste to the amount of food taken; disease of some kind, therefore, ensues.” ( 23 ) BARBADOES, Though a low island, may be seen 11 leagues off; and as we draw near through this smooth water, for the first time breaks on our view the luxuriant and everlasting foliage of the tropics. This island is about the size and height of the Isle of Wight. The estates are said to average 200 acres, and upon each of these there are a num- ber of negro dwelling-houses, the planter's house, and a sugar work; which, uniting with the great varieties of tropical trees and shrubs, form a scene highly picturesque, and give Barbadoes the appearance of a cluster of villages, and a characteristic beauty,- that of finished cultivation and domestic comfort. Barbadoes is one of the healthiest islands; it is almost entirely free from marshy grounds and from being cultivated throughout, and comparatively level, 24 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. it affords more opportunities of exercise than many others. It is the most easterly of the Caribbee islands, and lies between 59° 50' and 60° 2' W. long.: and 12° 56' and 13° 16' N. lat. It is about 25 miles from North to South, and 15 from East to West, and contains 107,000 acres of land, the most of which is highly cultivated. It is divided into five districts and eleven parishes. As the seat of Govern- ment, it comprises within its jurisdiction Grenada, St. Vincent, and Tobago; each of which, however, retains its separate legislature. It was probably first discovered by the Portuguese in their voyages from Brazil, and from them it received the name it still retains. It was found without occupants or claimants, having been deserted by the Caribbees; and the Portuguese, regarding it as of little value, left it in the state as when dis- covered by them. Formal possession was afterwards taken of the island by an English vessel, the crew of which landed there in 1605; and on the spot where James Town was afterwards built, set up a cross with this inscription, “ James, King of Eng- land, and this island.” But no settlement was made until some years afterwards, a grant of the island having been made by King James to the Earl of Marlborough (Lord Ley), and William Deane being appointed his governor, a vessel arrived in 1624, and laid the foundations of James Town, which was the first English settlement in the island. Barbadoes is commonly considered as having also been the first English settlement in the West Indies, but Edwards shows that St. Kitt's came into British possession in 1623. BARBADOES. 25 The 41 per cent. Crown duties, so long a heavy burden on this and the other colonies obtained by conquest, were thus imposed: after the Restoration, Lord Willoughby, who had been Governor for Lord Carlisle under Charles I., applied to Charles II. to be re-appointed. This the inhabitants opposed, and sought to be placed entirely under the Royal Govern- ment. They insisted that Lord Carlisle's patent was void in law, and their case was referred by Charles to a committee of the Privy Council. During the discus- sions before the Council, an offer having been made by one of the planters to raise a per centage duty on the produce of their estates, on condition that the King should take the sovereignty into his own hands, Charles greedily grasped at the offer; and though the authority of the person who made it was on the very next day denied by the planters, the hope thus raised in the mind of the needy and extravagant mo- narch, of realizing a revenue of considerable amount, was not speedily to be relinquished. His Council very readily seconded his views; the unfortunate planters had no power to resist. Every art of cajo- lery and intimidation was used, and the result was the following compromise. The Crown procured the surrender of the Carlisle patent, and engaged to confirm the planters in the legal possession of their estates; in consideration of which, the Assembly of Barbadoes was to grant to the King, his heirs and successors, a permanent and irrevocable revenue of 4} per cent., to be paid in specie on all dead com- modities of the growth of the island, that should be shipped off the same. Out of this the King was to pay one or two claimants, and the Governor's salary, £1,200 per annum. The 41 per cent. duty was 26 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. granted by act of the island passed the 12th of September, 1663. It was repealed on the 10th Octo- ber, 1838, by the Act 1st and 2nd Victoria, c. 92. The Council is composed of 12 members. The Governor sits in council even when the Council are sitting in their legislative capacity; a method which in other colonies would be considered as improper and unconstitutional. The Assembly consists of 22, of whom 12 are a quorum. They are elected from the different parishes, and every person electing, or elected, must be a white man, professing the Chris- tian religion, and a free or naturalized subject of Great Britain, having attained the age of 21. He must also possess a certain qualification in land. The highest land is in the north-eastern quarter, called Scotland, which is hilly and bleak; its greatest elevation is about 1100 feet above the sea. Scotland has been found to be one of the most healthy situations in the West Indies; and invalid soldiers have been removed to the hospital there with great advantage to their general health. This island is rather cooler—probably because of its being small and level-than the other islands to the northward: the N. E. trade-wind constantly blows over it. Hur- ricanes, which frequently desolate the other islands, have not visited Barbadoes with any severity since the memorable one of 1780, which laid it waste. The chief town is called Bridgetown, situate on the north side of Carlisle Bay, upon the S. W. side of the island. It covers an extent of nearly two miles along the shore, and contains about 20,000 inhabitants. It has a cathedral and some handsome houses, but the want of good shop-windows, and the extreme irregularity of the buildings, impart a BARBADOES. 27 meanness of appearance. At the southern extremity of the town is the naval Dock-yard and the garrison of St. Anne's; the barracks of the latter are large and spacious buildings, with covered galleries, front- ing a very fine and extensive parade. A small assem- blage of houses on the western coast, at about five miles to the northward of Bridgetown, bears the name of Holetown, and is remarkable, as before noted, for being the first settlement of the English, who landed in the neighbourhood, and called their hamlet James- town, in honor of the first Stuart. Speightstown, three and a half miles more to the northward, has a roadstead and wharf. There is a daily communication between these places; it is a very beautiful excursion, and the wind rarely fails either way. The view from Dover Hill, a fortress and signal station, half a mile from Speights- town, is very interesting. The houses are nearly lost in the foliage of gardens and cane-fields, and the almost painted sky shines in still sky-blue between the slender stems of the thousands of cocoa-nut trees which form a green fence upon the shore. field,” observes a traveller, “is one of the most beautiful productions that the pen or pencil can pos- sibly describe. It commonly rises from three to eight feet in height; a difference in growth that very strongly marks the difference of soil or the varieties of culture. It is when ripe of a bright and golden yellow; and where obvious to the sun is in many parts very beautifully streaked with red; the top is of a darkish green, but becomes, either from an excess of ripeness or a continuance of drought, of a russet yellow, with long and narrow leaves depending, from the centre of which shoots up an arrow-like and - A cane- 28 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. silver wand, from two to six feet in height, and from the summit of which grows out a plume of white feathers, which are delicately tinged with a lilac dye.” The steamer comes within a mile of the shore. The cost of landing by shore boats is from one dollar to one and a half. Passengers do not require to bring passports; nor is their luggage examined with any great strictness. There are several hotels of respectability, whose charges are not so moderate as in other islands, but the accommodations are excellent. Poultry is good and abundant; as are also meat and vegetables. The roads over the island are excellent, and the views rich in the extreme. Horse and carriage hire are moderate. Bathing-houses are numerous along the sea-shore, and the charges very low. There are two literary societies in the town, which consist of all the leading persons in the colony, have good libraries, and give good dinners four times a year. There is also an agricultural society, and one or two commercial rooms. There are several schools in the island under the superintendence of the Established clergy, Church Missionary Society, and Wesleyans. The total num- ber of scholars in 1841, in public or free schools, was 7,068, male and female; these were chiefly sup- ported by parochial grants and a bequest by the colony. In 1842, the total number of scholars was 3,486, but in this return the Sunday scholars were not given. Codrington College is romantically situated on the borders of Barbadian Scotland, fourteen miles from Bridgetown; a steep cliff rises on one side of it, from the foot of which an avenue of magnificent BARBADOES. 29 cabbage-trees leads up to the lawn in front of the building; and on the other side the ground gradually slopes away to some small rocks over the sea. This college was founded and liberally endowed by Colonel Codrington; and two sugar estates have been also bequeathed to the Society for the propagation of the Gospel in support of the college, and for a school attached to it; and here young men have not only the benefit of a university education, but receive orders, and are allowed to exercise their pastoral functions throughout the Leeward islands. There are 12 exhibitions on the foundation. It is also intended to appropriate this seminary for the recep- tion and instruction of catechists. Upon the estates of the college there is a chapel, a school, and an hospital, almost exclusively for the use of the negroes. POPULATION. 1841........ . 120,500 1842.......... Incomplete. 1841.. 1842. Baptisms. . 4,475 5,472 Marriages. 782 1,092 Burials. 1,652 1,634 MILITIA. 1,446 men. 1842.... 1841.... 1,124 men. SHIPPING. Tons. Inwards. Ships. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1841 .. 738 78,301 5,648 1841 .. 742 80,800 5,792 1842. 772 81,0495,987 1842 .. 739 80,212 5,741 8. S. WAGES OF LABOURERS. d. Domestic, per month.... 1841 1 13 4 Predial, per day.. 0 1 3 Trades 0 2 6 1842 1 13 0 1 0 2 d. 4 3 6 30 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. Sterling Prices. s. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb... 1841 0 0 5 1842 0 0 5 Beef 0 1 0 0 1 0 Mutton 0 1 3 0 1 3 Pork 0 0 10 0 0 10 Rice 0 18 9 0 18 9 Coffee. 5 0 0 5 0 0 Tea.. 0 6 8 0 6 8 Sugar.. 1 10 0 1 10 0 Course of Exchange, 1841 and 1842–Fluctuating from £152 10s. to £160. per cwt, · per lb. per cwt. Declared value of Imports and Exports in 1840 was— Imports. . £599,139 0 0 Exports. . £344,297 0 0 Proportion of Compensation, paid under the Emancipation Act-£1,721,345 19s. 7d. sterling. The following NEWSPAPERS are published in Bridgetown :- The Barbadian. { Weaturday} A.Clinckett, Esq. Est. 1822 1837 1833 The Liberal .. same days .. S.J. Prescod, Barbadoes Mercury Saturday .. S Tuesday & ? H. King & Co. Monday & SA. G. Drinan, » Barbadoes Globe .. | Thursday.. The West Indian.... same days J.Y.Edghill&Co., S Tuesday & H. W. Perkins The Standard .... s & Co. 1819 1833 { Friday 1843 ( 31 ) HE TIBI ERRENT ARTIS. GRENADA. AFTER remaining a short time at Barbadoes, the steamer from England proceeds to Grenada, distant 140 miles. She goes alongside the company's wharf in Saint George's Harbour, and passengers can walk on shore. Grenada was discovered by Columbus, on his third voyage, in 1498. It was settled by the French about 1650, and ceded to Great Britain, by the treaty of Paris, 1763. It is situated between the parallels of 12° 20' and 11° 58' N. lat., and 61° 20' and 61° 35' W. long. It is computed to be about 24 miles in length, 12 in its greatest breadth, and contains about 80,000 acres of land, which is divided into six pa- rishes. There are several smaller islands, supposed to be 120 in number, called the Grenadines, in the vicinity of Grenada. But few of these, however, are comprised in the Grenada Government. These 32 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. vernor. islands are now subordinate to the Governor of Bar- badoes. Under letters patent, bearing date the 9th April, 1764, an Assembly was first convened in Grenada in 1765, the legislative authority having been previously exercised by General Melville and his council. In July 1779, Grenada was captured by the arms of France, but was restored to Great Britain by the general pacification which took place in January 1783, and the English Government was fully re- established in 1787, under General Mathew as Go- Since that time this island, with its depen- dencies, has been governed (according to the usual custom) under commissions granted by the Crown to the successive Governors, with accompanying instruc- tions; and the legislative power has continued to be vested in the Governor and Council and the House of Assembly. The Governor presides solely in the Courts of Chancery and Ordinary. His salary is £3,200 currency per annum, which is raised by a poll-tax on all salaries; and it is the practice in Grenada to pass a salary Bill on the arrival of every new Governor, to continue during his government. The Council consists of 12 members, and the Assembly of 26. A freehold or life estate of 50 acres, is a qualification to sit as a representative for the parishes; and a freehold or life estate with £50 house rent in St. George's, qualifies a representative for the town. An estate of 10 acres in fee or for life, or a rent of £10 in any of the out towns, gives a vote for the representatives of each parish respect- ively; and a rent of £20 per annum, issuing out of any freehold or life estate in the town of St. George, gives a vote for a representative for the town. Grenada has never been subject to the 4} per cent. GRENADA. 33 Crown duties. The Crown attempted to impose this tax by proclamation, after the grant of a legislative assem- bly had passed the great seal; but it was successfully resisted by the colony in the Court of King's Bench, in England, Lord Mansfield declaring it to be the judgment of the Court that the prerogative of the King before the date of the proclamation was clear, but that by that proclamation and commission the King had immediately and irrevocably granted to the inhabitants of Grenada, or to those who held pro- perty in the island, that the subordinate legislation over the island should be exercised by an assembly, with the consent of the Governor in council. By this decision the Crown duty was not imposed on Gre- nada, nor on the islands of Dominica, St. Vincent, or Tobago, which were then comprised under the government of Grenada. St. George's, the capital of Grenada, which is built upon a peninsula, projecting into a spacious bay, called St. George's harbour, is on the west or lee side of the island, not far from the southern extremity. It is embosomed in an amphitheatre of hills, and chiefly situated on elevations which rise from the bay; the consequence is, that the streets are steep. The houses are well built, and on the whole the town has a hand- some appearance. It is divided by a ridge, which running into the sea, forms one side of what is termed the Carenage; which is a large basin of water, sur- rounded by wharfs, and in the vicinity of which the principal merchants reside. In this Carenage the ships lie land-locked, and in deep water, close to the wharfs. The entrance is defended by a citadel, called Fort George, which is built upon a rocky eminence. On the left, the land rises gradually to D 34 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. some height, on which elevation the fortifications of Hospital Hill are erected, and a long ridge, which falls towards the middle, connects this fort with Richmond Heights, and constitute the back-ground of the scene. These heights are also fortified. Upon this hill are built some of the principal houses, the church, and the parsonage. The whole forms a scene of great richness and beauty. This island being a British colony no passports are required. The custom-house officer attends at the wharf to examine the luggage. There are two banks, -branches of the Colonial Bank and West India Bank; English, as also Spanish, money is current. Two respectable hotels are close to the landing-place; the charges are moderate. The town of Saint George's is abundantly supplied with water by pipes and fountains. There are four places of worship in the town, of the Episcopalian, Scotch, Wesleyan, and Roman Catholic faiths. The scenery of Grenada is romantic and pictu- resque in a high degree: it has been styled the most lovely of our West India isles.” In the N.W. are successive piles of conical hills or continuous ridges, covered with vast forest trees and brush-wood. Its mountains form many fertile valleys, interspersed with numerous rivulets, on which water-mills are erected for the use of the plantations. Some of the mountains rise to the height of more than 3,000 feet above the level of the sea. There are delightful drives about the island, and some objects of natural curiosity worth visiting In several places are hot springs of sulphurous and other mineral waters, emitting a strong mephitic air, which instantly kills any small GRENADA. 35 animal brought too near. There are several indica- tions of extinct volcanoes; that called Lake Antoine is the most remarkable, it is now filled with water, and about 50 feet deep; and although 18 feet above the level of the sea, and has no apparent connexion with other water, it has been continually encreasing in quantity for the last forty years; it is supposed now to cover an area of sixty English acres. Another lake, called the Grand Etang, is situated in the inte- rior of the island, about seven miles from St. George's. The ride to this lake, which should be undertaken early in the morning, is truly romantic and pictu- resque, and its steep ascent of an Alpine character. This lake, as well as the former, is supplied with pure fresh water by subterranean springs. The range of the thermometer in the shade, for the last six years, as registered by Dr. Stephenson of St. George's, is from 69° to 93º Farenheit; and the fall of rain is 58-4.5 inches. The dews are nei- ther very copious nor dangerous. No hurricane has been experienced here for upwards of 60 years. There are no venomous reptiles to the injury of life. Captain Leese, is the Agent of the Company at Grenada. PRODUCE. 1840 1841 Sugar.- lbs. 12,519,895 9,904,683 Rum.--gals. 395,811 328,251 Molasses.--gals. 78,492 81,325 1840... 1841. Coffee.- lbs. Cocoa.-lbs. 22,665 238,195 10,259 226,480 Including Island of Carriacou. Cotton.--Ibs. 93,614 45,528 D2 36 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 SHIPPING. Inwards. Tons. Tons. Men. Ships. Men. Outwards. Ships. 1840.. 375.. 20,324.. 2,320 1840 .. 388.. 20,164..3,333 1841.. 425., 23,657.. 2,587 1841 428.. 26,801.. 2,569 1842 .. 313.. 16,524.. 2,050 1842 .. 261.. 12,722..1,727 MILITIA. 1840 .... Officers—104.... Privates—734.... Total—838 The Militia musters were suspended in the month of April, 1840, and consequently no returns since made. WAGES OF LABOURERS. 1840. 1841. 1842. Domestic Predial, House & Grounds included Trades per month.... 36s... 40s... 40s. 20s... 20s... 20s. .. 80s... 80s... 80s. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 8. per lb. Sterling Prices. Wheaten Bread Beef Mutton Pork Rice Coffee. Tea.. Sugar Ditto, refined... 1840. 1841. $. d. d. 0 0 4 0 0 4 0 0 74.. 0 0 7 0 0 10 0 0 10 0 0 7.00 7 5 0 1 5 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 .0 0 6 0 0 0 6 0 0 6 0 0 9 0 0 9 1842. S. d. 0 0 4 0 0 7 0 0 10 0 0 7 1 5 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 9 per cwt. 1 per lb. From 1st Jan. 1841, the currency same as in Great Britain. Cut monies and “ dogs” have been called in. Population Returns not given. Returns of Schools and Scholars defective. The proportion of Slave Compensation paid to the Pro- prietors, was £616,444 17s. Od. GRENADA. 37 Two NEWSPAPERS are published in St. George's :- The St. George's Chronicle, on Saturday, by D. J. David- son, Esq. Established 1742. Grenada Free Press, on Wednesday, by J. R. M'Combie, Esq. Established 1826. ( 38 ) die MISCERIQUE PROBAT POPULUS ET FÆDERA JUNGI TRINIDAD miles; The distance from Grenada to Trinidad is about 90 and you soon come within sight of the beau- tifully-wooded mountains of this magnificent island. It lies between 10° and 11° of N. lat., and 61° and 63° of W. long. Its extreme breadth from E. to W. is between 60 and 70 miles, and 50 from N. to S. The name was given by Columbus from the circum- stance of three of the highest peaks of the moun- tains having first appeared to him on approaching land. It was on his third voyage on 31st July, 1498. Having been in great danger in a violent storm, he made a vow to give the name of the Holy Trinity to the first land he should find; soon after which a sailor in the main-top saw three points of land, whereby the name fitted every way to his vow. The Spaniards did not attempt to make any settle- ment on the island till 90 years after its discovery. TRINIDAD. 39 It was almost immediately captured by Sir W. Raleigh in 1595, but speedily fell again into the power of the Spaniards. In 1797, Trinidad was captured by the troops under Sir R. Abercromby. It was ceded by the Spaniards at the peace of Amiens, and has since continued in the possession of the British. The steamer goes through the Bocas de Huevos, which is narrow; but the Boca Grande, or large pas- sage, into the Gulf of Paria, is that used by large sailing ships, and is about 5 miles wide, with the shores of South America on the right hand. Imme- diately on arrival the ship is boarded by the harbour- master, who is also health officer, and admits the ship to pratique. À writer in 1825, thus describes the appearance of the Gulf of Paria: “Having entered the Gulf of Paria the water appeared of the purest ultrama- rine. On the right hand the mountains of Cumana, with their summits lost in the clouds; on the left, the immense precipices of Trinidad, covered to the extremest height with gigantic trees, which seem to swim in the middle ether; the margin fringed with the evergreen mangroves, which were here hanging with their branches bathed in the water, and there, themselves rising out of the midst of the soft waves; behind us, the four mouths of the Dragon of Co- lumbus, with the verdant craggy isles between them; before us, the Port of Spain, the capital, with its beautiful churches, the great Savana, and the closing hills of Montserrat. “Meanwhile, the long dark canoes glanced by, with their white sails almost kissing the sea, and enormous whales, ever and anon lifted their mon- 40 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 1 strous bodies quite out of the water in strange gam- bols, and falling down, created a tempest around them, and shot up columns of silver foam.” Not only are the mountains of this magnificent island beautifully wooded, but there are several rivers navigable far into the interior, irrigating and afford- ing communication with millions of acres of virgin soil, where no foot but that of the Indian or Maroon negro has made an impress; it holds out, therefore, most advantageous prospects to the capitalist settler. In the Gulf of Paria fish is so abundant that the greater part of the West Indies might be supplied. Shell-fish is particularly fine. Coal has been found, and of good quality, in more than one part of the island, but the want of labour precludes its being worked. In landing there is not the least danger, for there is no surf, and the public wharf extends far into the water, so that boats may approach at all times and at all hours. You are about a mile from the shore, and are soon surrounded by shore-boats. You must make your bargain with these; from sixty cents, equal to 28. 6d. sterling, or a dollar, according to quantity of luggage and delay, is fair pay. If from England, or an English island, there is no examination of your luggage; but it is examined if from a foreign port, and a small ad valorem duty of from 3 to 71 per cent. is sometimes charged on articles of foreign manufacture. It is very rarely, however, that any duties are charged. There are two banks in Port of Spain, the Colonial and West India; and both British money and Spanish dollars are current. TRINIDAD. 41 Port of Spain is one of the finest towns in the West Indies. The streets, of which there are five miles within the suburbs, are wide, long, and laid out at right angles; no house is now allowed to be built of wood, and no erection of any sort can be made except in a prescribed line. Port of Spain is one of the few towns in the West India colonies that has obtained civic self-rule. There is a public walk, embowered in trees, and similar in all respects to the Terreiro in Funchal, and a spacious market- place, with a market-house or shambles, in excellent order and cleanliness. The Spanish and French fe- males, their gay costume, their foreign language, and their unusual vivacity, give this market the appear- ance of a merry fair in France. The Protestant church is beautifully situated with a large enclosed lawn in front. It is wainscotted inside with the various rich woods of the island. The Roman Catholic church, capable of containing 5000 persons, is also a fine building, and is situate on the southern extremity of the town: having two towers, it is very conspicuous from the anchorage. Its bishop is called the Bishop of Olympus. There is also a chapel, that of Santa Maria, used by seceders from the Catholic church. There are several excellent hotels, some close to the landing-place, that have abundance of good water. Vehicles and horses are to be had for hire at the Brunswick Stables. Passports are not needed on arriving; nor on leaving, except to a foreign port. In this case it can be obtained from the Secretary of the Colony, at the expense of a dollar and a personal visit. There is a theatre, occupied by a French company, and two news and billiard-rooms. 42 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Three companies of white troops and one of black, and a detachment of artillery are generally quartered in the capital. The large number of religious places of worship throughout the island, shows a commendable desire among the inhabitants for religious instruction. There are now six Episcopalian, thirteen Roman Catholic, and five Wesleyan chapels scattered through the island, besides those in the capital. This shows a marked contrast to what it was ten years ago. There are several, from eighteen to twenty, public schools in connexion with the Episcopal Church and the Church of Rome, both supported by Govern- ment; others supported by the Church Missionary Society, and some private schools. In all these both French and English are taught. There is a colonial hospital for 110 patients, established by Sir Henry M'Leod; also a house of refuge and a leper asy- lum. There are several mineral springs in the colony. The island is governed by a Governor and Le- gislative Council, composed of six official and six non-official members, with powers to pass their own laws, subject to the approbation of the Secretary of State. The Bishop of the Diocese is also a member of Council, and may sit and vote at the Board. The laws in force are the laws of Spain, as established at the time of the conquest by the English, with such alterations only as have been made in them by orders in Council, to which this island, as a colony by con- quest, is subject. The thermometer in the shade, at the warmest part of the day, say two p.m., may be stated at 84° to 86°; at five a.m., it is 76º. The climate is pecu- liarly suitable for people advanced in life, labouring TRINIDAD. 43 under rheumatism, dyspepsia, or incipient phthisis. By leaving Europe in October, and living temperately in this colony, their lives might be prolonged many years. Endemic fevers are scarcely known; and, from the careful attention of Dr. Murray in the vac- cine establishment, the island is kept free from small pox. The dry season is from Christmas to the end of May; dry weather sometimes occurs in parts of Sep- tember and October. In June the wet season com- mences, and the rain falls in torrents, with the winds variable from W. to S.E. The dews are very copious; and though not dan- gerous, they should be avoided by Europeans. The clothing should be of thin flannel next the skin, light linen jackets, and thin woollen socks. White light beaver hats are preferable to black. A water- proof outer coat, for the wet season, should be pro- vided, and the thin Codrington coat or wrapper is appropriate all the year. The island is exceedingly well supplied with medi- cal practitioners; some of the most esteemed are Doctors Neilson, Hartle, O'Connor, Murray, &c. &c. The town is very healthy. The population, by the census completed in 1843, was 16,106 persons. Robert Dennistoun, Esq., is the Agent for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company in Port of Spain. Besides the beautiful scenery in the Island of Trinidad, there are some natural curiosities that are worth visiting. These are the Pitch Lake at Point la Brae; the hot springs at Point a Pierre; the mud volcanoes; and the remarkable caves in the small Island of Gasparie. “Every one who goes to Trinidad,” says Mr. 44 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Coleridge “ should make a point of visiting the Indian Missions of Arima and Savana Grande. They are wholly unlike anything which I had ever before seen; and differ as much from the negro-yard on the one hand, as they do from an European-built town on the other. “ The village of Savana Grande consisted chiefly of two rows of houses in parallel lines, with a spa- cious street or promenade between them, over which there was so little travelling, that the green grass was growing luxuriantly upon it. Each house is insulated by an interval of ten or fifteen feet on either side; they are large and lofty, and being beautifully constructed of spars of bamboo, and thatched with palm branches, they are always ventilated in the most agreeable manner. A projection of roof in front is supported by posts, and forms a shady gallery, under which the Indians will sit for hours together in mo- tionless silence. They seem to be the identical race of people whose forefathers Columbus discovered, and the Spaniards worked to death in Hispaniola. They are short in stature, (none that I saw exceeded five feet six inches), yellow in complexion, their eyes dark, their hair long, lank, and glossy as the raven's wing; they have a remarkable space between the nostrils and the upper lip, and a breadth and massiveness between the shoulders, that would do credit to the Farnese Hercules. Their hands and feet are small- boned and delicately shaped. Nothing seems to affect them like other men; neither joy nor sorrow, anger or curiosity, take any hold of them. Both mind and body are drenched in the deepest apathy; the children lie quietly on their mothers' bosoms; TRINIDAD. 45 ways." silence is in their dwellings, and idleness in all their There are schools appointed, in which the negroes and the Indians are educated, and the penmanship of the latter is remarkable for its beauty. The con- trast between these two races is very striking, and is thus described by the same lively writer. “ Their complexions do not differ so much as their minds and dispositions. In the first, life stagnates; in the last, it is tremulous with irritability. The negroes cannot be silent; they talk in spite of themselves. Every passion acts upon them with strange intensity; their anger is sudden and furious; their mirth clamorous and excessive; their curiosity audacious; and their love the sheer demand for gra- tification of an ardent animal desire. Yet by their nature they are good-humoured in the highest degree. It is said that even the negroes despise the Indians, and I think it very probable; they are decidedly inferior as intelligent beings. Indeed their history and existence form a deep subject for speculation. The flexibility of temper of the rest of mankind has been for the most part denied to them; they wither under transportation, they die under labour; they will never willingly or generally amalgamate* with the races of Europe or Africa; if left to themselves with ample means of subsistence, they decrease in numbers every year; if compelled to any kind of im- provement, they reluctantly acquiesce, and relapse with certainty the moment the external compulsion ceases. They shrink before the approach of other nations as it were by instinct; and they are not now * Note to Second Edition : This is now authoritatively contradicted. 5 46 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 known in vast countries of which they were once the only inhabitants. In 1824, the number of the In- dians was computed to be 893 in Trinidad.” Mr. Montgomery Martin, in his Colonial Library, gives the following description of the Pitch Lake. “ This lake is situated on the westward side of the island, on a small peninsular jutting out into the sea about two miles, and elevated 80 feet above the level of the ocean. It is nearly circular, and better than half a league in length, and the same in breadth. The variety and extraordinary mobility of the phe- nomenon is very remarkable. Groups of beautiful shrubs and flowers, tufts of wild pine-apples and aloes; swarms of magnificent butterflies, and brilliant humming-birds enliven a scene which would be an earthly representation of Tartarus without them. With regard to its mobility, where a small islet has been seen on an evening, a gulf is found on the fol- lowing morning, and on another part of the lake a pitch islet has sprung up, to be in its turn adorned with the most luxuriant vegetation and then again engulphed. The appearance of this lake is like pit coal, except in hot weather, when it is liquid an inch deep. Crevices, sometimes six feet deep, are found in the pitch, filled with excellent limpid running water, and often containing a great quantity of mullet and small fish. • The bottoms of these crevices are so liquid, that marked poles thrust in disappear, and have been found a few days after on the sea shore. (?) During the rainy season it is possible to walk over nearly all the lake, but in hot weather part is not to be ap- proached. No bottom has ever been found to the lake. On standing still near the centre, the surface 1 TRINIDAD. 47 >> gradually sinks, forming a sort of bowl, and when the shoulders become level with the lake, it is high time to get out. The flow of pitch has been im- mense, and the appearance of that which is hardened, is as if the whole surface had boiled up in large bub- bles, and then suddenly cooled, but where it is liquid it is perfectly smooth. Forty miles south of the Pitch Lake are several mud volcanoes, in a plain not more than four feet above the general surface. These come into action in the month of February or March, at about full moon, and send up fluid mud into the air, to the height of 30 or 40 feet, with a report at each time as if a heavy gun were discharged. The largest is about 150 feet in diameter, and has boiling mud constantly bubbling, but never overflowing, remaining always within the surface of the crater. When the old cra- ters cease to act, new ones invariably appear in the vicinity. During the hottest months cold mud, 20° lower than the atmosphere, is thrown up, and the volcano is unapproachable to within fifty paces. To the eastward of Port of Spain is a marsh of several thousand acres in extent, called the Grand Savannah, on which vast multitudes of cattle are allowed to roam and graze at large. It is said that the exhalations from this marsh renders Port of Spain at times unhealthy. There is a tradition that a Dutchman from Guiana, possessed of 500 slaves, intended to drain this marsh and settle on it, but that before the arrangements were completed, he fell into fashionable society in Europe, and ran through all his property, In the dry season the Savannah is set on fire, and it may be seen blazing and smoking for several weeks. In the conflagration myriads of snakes and small animals perish. 48 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. POPULATION, Census 1842–10 Districts. No. of Persons employed in Males. Females. Total. Agriculture. Manufactures. Commerce 24,058.... 24,122.... 48,180....15,309.... 2,164....1,361 SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 676 62,113 4,945 | 1840 .. 659 60,660 4,793 1841 .. 670 61,782 5,133 | 1841 .689 62,012 4,699 1842 640 59,907 4,649 | 1842 .. 661 60,222 4,878 1 ACRES OF LAND UNDER CROP. Sugar. Cocoa. Coffee. Cotton. Prov. Pasture. Tot. Uncul. 1840—21,710..6,910..1,095..2 ..6,314.. 7,237 .. 97,256 1841—21,710..6,910.. 1,095..2 .. 6,314.. 7,237 .. 97,256 1842 wanted. COURSE OF EXCHANGE. 1840–470 to 4908 per £100 sterling. 1841-470 to 4858 1842. 16 WHALE FISHERIES. 1841. Number of Boats employed.... 16.. 16.... Whales taken... 29. 28. Gallons of Oil 28,545. 27,561.. Value in sterling of Oil £2,931.... £2,872... Price of Oil per gallon 2s. ld..... 2s. ld... 35 cents. Note. There are four Whale Fisheries in the Island, viz., one at Gasparillo, two at Monos Island, and one at Chacachacare. The proportion of Slave Compensation paid to Trinidad was £1,039,119 ls. 3d. There are two NEWSPAPERS published in Port of Spain :- Port of Spain Gazette, published Tuesday and Friday, by H. J. Mills, Esq. Established 1826. Trinidad Standard, on the same days, by J. M'Swiney, Esq. Established 1838. ( 49 ) BOAndal PULCHRIOR EVENIT TOBAGO Is 120 miles from Barbadoes, and 85 miles from Grenada. It is the most southerly of the Caribbee islands, lying in lat. 11° 10' N. and 59° 40' W. from London. It is somewhat more than 30 miles in length from N.E. to S.W.; between 8 and 9 in breadth; and from 23 to 25 leagues in circumference. It is divided into seven districts, called divisions, and the same number of parishes. Tobago was first discovered by Columbus, who gave it the present name from Tobacco, the pipe which the aborigines, to the surprise of the Spanish, smoked. The English visited this island very early, Sir Robert Dudley having been there in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. But no regular system of colonization was commenced by the English till 1765. After many changes of possession between the French and E 50 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. English, Tobago was finally ceded to England by the treaty of Paris in 1814. It now forms part of the General Government of Barbadoes, but continues to have its separate House of Assembly and separate Judicial Establishments. This island presents an irregular mass of conical hills and ridges, with numerous valleys, which in the southern quarter are less abrupt in their acclivi- ties. The soil is generally light and sandy, but fertile and well watered by a number of small streams, which make their way from the mountains to the sea. The coast affords several excellent bays and harbours. The steamer proceeds to Courland Bay, on the north side. Courland is not the capital of Tobago: the capital is Scarborough, five miles distant, which is situated on the S.W. side of Tobago, and extends, with little uniformity, along the sea shore. The cost of a mule or ass to Scarborough is about five dollars. The steamers generally come in within 200 yards of the shore, and passengers are landed by the steamers' boats. Passengers’ luggage is not searched; nor is there any need of a passport on arrival; but every person about to leave the island must provide himself with a pass from the Colonial Secretary's office, which costs 88. 4d. Sterling and Spanish money pass current. There are two banks at Scarborough, branches of the Co- lonial Bank and West India Bank. There is but one hotel at Scarborough, the accom- modation in which is not of the best description. But, so hospitable are the residents, that strangers, respectably introduced, are always entertained at the houses of the planters and merchants. TOBAGO. 51 There are three Episcopalian churches, two Mora- vian, and two Wesleyan chapels, in the island, to which schools are also attached; but the want of good teachers is felt. Two companies of regular troops are stationed at Scarborough. The legislature consists of the Executive Council and House of Assembly. P. M. Stewart, Esq. M.P., is the agent in London for the island. This island is so cooled by the sea breezes, that its temperature is very supportable to Europeans; the average range of the thermometer is 85° Nor is it generally subjected to those dreadful hurricanes which are so destructive in many of the other islands. The land in the northern part is very mountainous, and so high as to be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 12 leagues. The island is well watered by rivulets that intersect the vallies. Almost every tropical plant grows in rich abundance here, as also all the culinary plants of Europe. The rainy season begins about June, and gradually becomes beavy till September; towards the end of December, or beginning of January, crop time begins. Tobago, as one of the islands ceded to Great Britain, is exempt from the 41 per cent. Crown duties. AREA and POPULATION. Total. . 11,748 Acres. Males. 1842–57,408.... 5,502 Baptisms. 1840.. 420.. 1841..461. 1842..571. Females. .6,246 .... Marriages. Burials. 111 216. 107 .243.. 80 97... E 2 52 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Value of IMPORTS and EXPORTS for the year 1840. Imports. . £64,222. Exports..£118,819. MILITIA. Total 1840.. 229 1841.. 229 1842.. 230 SCHOOLS AND SCHOLARS. Established Church.. 10 Schools i } Totals only. Males. Females. Total. 1840.. 418 340.. 758 1841 1440 1842 879 Free Schools.—The funds are provided partly by the Colony and by the Society for the propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. Expense £690. Wesleyan Schools. . 1840-41..3 Schools 1842.. 2 Schools Males. Females. Total. 1840.. 41 68 1841.. 67 46. 113 1842.. 151 117...... . 268 The Wesleyan Society grants £90, and voluntary contribu- tions are also received. 27.. The Tobago Chronicle newspaper is published on Thursdays, at Scarborough, by A. Hislop, Esq. Established 1836. The share of the Slave Compensation money paid to Tobago was £234,064 5s. Od. ( 53 ) DEZ DAMUS PETIMUS QUE VICISSIM. DEMERARA. From Tobago to Demerara the route is rather against the trade-wind, and the ship is partially retarded. The calculated speed is six knots; the distance 320 miles. Stretching along the coast of the Atlantic, be- tween the lat. of 6º and 8° N., and the long. 57° and 59° W., lies that part of Dutch Guiana which contains the colony of Demerara, its dependent set- tlement of Essequibo, and the colony of Berbice. To the S.S.W. the river Courantin separates this tract from Surinam; to the N.N.W the small inlet and stream of Moroko divides it from the Spanish terri- tory on the right bank of the Oroonoko. Its length upon the coast, in a straight line, is about 160 miles; its breadth is not exactly ascertained, but is nearly twice its length, and reaches to the scantily-known provinces of New Cumana and New Andalusia, DEMERARA. 55 been taken. At 130 miles from its mouth are con- siderable cataracts, beyond which the Europeans have not explored its course; but the Arrowauk Indians, who descend in large canoes, represent it as acces- sible above the cataracts to a much greater distance than the latter from the sea. The steamers lie off the capital, formerly Stabroek, but now called Georgetown, about a quarter of a mile from the principal landing-place. Shore-boats are employed in landing, and about half a dollar is the usual charge for a passenger and his luggage. Luggage is not required to be searched, as there are no duties charged thereon. Georgetown is on the east side and near the mouth of the river which gives name to the colony. The town is of an oblong form, about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and a mile in length; it stands on a low and level site, and the principal streets are perfectly straight, with carriage roads. The houses are of wood, two or three stories high, and raised on brick foundations. There is nothing in the public build- ings to merit description. It is deficient in good hotels; but there are some respectable boarding- houses, the charges in which are from three to five dollars per day, exclusive of wines. Rain-water is that which is in general use. In this colony, as well as others of the British possession, dollars are current, at 48. 2d. each; British gold and silver are also current. There are two banks, branches of the Colonial and British Guiana Banks. No passports are required for passengers, either on arriving or quitting the colony; but residents on leaving must take a pass from the Colonial Secretary. 56 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 There are two theatres in Georgetown, the "Dutch” and the “Queen's.” The performances are occa- sional, by both amateur and professional actors. There is a library, the subscription to which is 14 dollars, 67 cents per annum, or 2 joes. The places of worship are numerous; they are of the Episcopalian, Scotch, and Lutheran Churches; the Roman Catholic, Reformed Dutch, Wesleyan Methodist, and the London Missionary Chapels. An entire regiment of the line, together with one or two detached companies of another regiment, whose head quarters are at Berbice, is generally in barracks at Georgetown. The Government consists of three bodies, viz.: the College of Electors, called Kiezers, or choosers, who are elected by the tax-payers for life, and who nominate the non-official members of the Court of Policy. This Court of Policy is the principal legis- lative court, and consists of five official, and five non-official members, the Governor being the presi- dent; and the Financial Representatives, six in num- ber, who are also directly elected for two years by the tax-payers, and who, joined to the Court of Policy, form the Combined Court, and regulate the finance of the Government. As these institutions are but little known in England, it may be as well to give a short description of them, as well as of the origin of the Financial Representatives. The College of Kiezers appears somewhat to resemble the electoral college in France. It is not itself the legislative body, but, as its name signifies, (the Col- lege of Kiezers being literally the College of Choos- ers,) it chooses or elects the legislative body. Yet the very small amount of its members, and the DEMERARA. 57 fact that the members of the College of Kiezers do not become members in right of any previously ascer- tained “ qualification," in our English sense of the word, but are actually elected by the inhabitants at large, deprive it of its exact resemblance to the electoral colleges. The Court of Policy, anciently called also the Council, seems to have been nothing but an executive and administrative board, assisting the Governor in the discharge of his duties, and composed of the four chief servants of the Dutch West India Company and four inhabitants chosen by the College of Burgher Officers or Kiezers. The Court of Policy was after- wards made by the terms of the capitulation to the English in 1803, a local legislature, and seems to unite the functions, except as to the levying of taxes, of the English Houses of Lords and Commons, and of the Privy Council. The Financial Representatives resembled, in having the direct power of taxation in their hands, the Eng- lish House of Commons, but resembled it in that respect alone; for the power of making laws was not given to the Financial Representatives, whose au- thority was expressly limited to "the purpose only of raising in conjunction with the Governor and Court of Policy of the said colony, the colonial taxes, and of examining accounts.” The first institution of trial by jury in Demerara, took place in 1818. As British Guiana is a conquered colony, it is subject to be governed by orders in council. Though situated under a vertical sun, British Guiana is more healthy than most of the West India islands, which probably arises from the greater equa- 58 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. lity of the temperature. The constant regularity of the trade-winds during the day, and of the land- breezes which succeed them in the evening, joined to the invariable length of the nights, with their re- freshing dews, render the heat far from excessive. By a series of thermometrical observations taken at the Royal Engineer's quarters in Georgetown, at 6 a.m., 12 at noon, and 6 p.m., daily, from three thermometers of the best description, the mean heat during the day and throughout the year has no greater range than from 82° to 85°; consequently consumptive catarrhal affections, and other diseases incident on sudden or great variations of climate, or which are the results either of intense cold or of ex- cessive heat, are of very rare occurrence in Guiana. Nor must it be overlooked, that even the heat indi. cated by the degrees above given is materially abated by a constant breeze from the north-east, and which varies but slightly in strength. Malaria and mias- matic vapours, incident to all low flat countries, are the only bar to perfect salubrity; but these are ra- pidly yielding to the improvements in drainage, and to the greater attention among the medical profession to the pathology of the diseases arising from these causes. There is no winter here. The year is divided into two dry, and two rainy, seasons; part of December, January, part of February, and May, June, July, constitute the two wet seasons: the other months, the dry seasons. The thermometer averages from 82° to 84° in the shade. The months of October and November are the most delightful in the year; the sky is cloudless, the heat moderate, and the ther- mometer at noon-tide scarcely higher than 80° Fahr. DEMERARA. 59 During the rainy season the oppressive weight of the atmosphere is tempered by northerly breezes; and in the months of September and November the breezes from the East and South-East, which have passed over a vast extent of the ocean, are invigorating, and refresh the air to such a degree, that during the night the thermometer has been known to fall to 74° Fahr. The seasons do not materially affect the healthiness of the colony. The dews in the city are neither heavy nor dangerous. In the rivers, creeks, and in the uncultivated portion of the country, they are more copious and do not agree with European constitutions. Georgetown is amply supplied with good medical practitioners. Those in largest practice are Drs. Hutson and Alleyne, and Mr. D. Blair, surgeon; there are several others of decided respectability. Berbice is about 70 miles east, and the River Esse- quibo about 60 miles west, from Georgetown. There is steam communication between these places and Demerara once a fortnight, and sailing vessels pass to and fro almost daily. Cabin fares to Berbice by steamer 6 dollars, and 4 dollars back to Demerara; to Essequibo, 3 dollars both ways. The scenery in the interior, and especially up the Essequibo River, is most beautiful and romantic. This river is about 25 miles wide at its mouth; it is studded with islands, some of which are cultivated. Information respecting its course is equally obscure as of the Demerara river. The trees, of which it is said there are at least one hundred different sorts, cover the land at both sides of this majestic river. Their branches are crowded with birds of varied and beautiful plumage, and the whole bears the look of 60 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. everlasting summer. “Delight,” says a distinguished traveller, “is but a poor word to express the feelings of a naturalist when he first sets foot within the virgin forests of South America.” The soil, in general, is rich in the extreme, and produces all the variety of tropical productions in lavish abundance. An Agricultural and Commercial Society has re- cently been established in Georgetown, the leading objects of which, to quote from the prospectus, “shall be the improvement of the agriculture of the colony, and the encouragement of every branch of industry, manufacture, or trade, whereby the re- sources of the colony are likely to be developed and increased." His Excellency the Governor is patron of the society, which already boasts of a highly re- spectable list of members, both as regards rank and numbers. A munificent grant has been made to the society by the Legislature of premises, situated in the most central part of the city, which are immedi- ately to be fitted up as exchange-room, reading room, museum, library, &c., &c. We look with much in- terest to these societies now becoming general among the British West India colonies. POPULATION of DEMERARA and Essequibo, according to Census on 15th October, 1841. Males. 39,364 Females. 38,564 Total. 77,928 DEMERARA. 61 * 848 SCHOOLS AND SCHOLARS. Demerara. 1840. 1841. 1842. Church of England 2,167 2,197 2,218 Scotland 1,914 2,098 Roman Catholics 250 Essequibo. Church Missionary Society .. 274 224 op 40 Wesleyan Missionary Society 1,046 1,046 298 (Sunday.) London Missionary Society .. 1,803 1,825 1,800 Several miscellaneous Sunday Schools, for adults and boys and girls-numbers uncertain. SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 567 93,211 5,413 1840 .. 583 96,924 5,397 1841 .. 607 98,815 5,506 1841 .. 608 99,013 5,396 1842 .. 496 82,620 4,529 1842 .. 493 79,255 2,786 Tons. 1840. COURSE OF EXCHANGE. Average of years 1840-41-42,448 80 cents to the £ sterling. WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1841. 1942. Domestic, per month. . £2 10s. £2 10s. £2 Predial, per day.. 2s. ld..... ls. 6d. to 4s. 2d.... 1s. 5d. Trades.. 4s. 2d..... 4s. 2d. to 6s. 3d... . 3s. 6d. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb. 1840 0 10.. 1841 0 6.. 1842 0 4 Beef 0 10 0 10 Mutton 2 1 2 1., 1 4 Pork 1 3 1 0.. 0 10 Rice 0 5 0 2 Coffee.. 1 1 0 8 Tea.. 6 2 8 5 4 Sugar 05 0 8.. 0 4 8. s. d. s. 0 10.. 0 4,. 5.. 4.. 2 > * Returns in three parishes defective. † Returns in two parishes defective. 62 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. BERBICE. Total Population, according to Census taken 15th Oct. 1841, Males. Females. 10,427 9,790 20,217. Total SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 136 18,940 1,114 1841 128 17,402 1,033 1842 .. 95 14,397 815 Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 134 19,577 1,132 1841 .. 152 20,825 1,218 1842 .. 85 13,566 730 Value of IMPORTS and EXPORTS in the year 1840 : Demerara.. Berbice.. Imports. £844,383.... 144,004.. Exports. £1,555,661 332,063 The amount of Slave Compensation paid to British Guiana was £4,297,117 10 6. NEWSPAPERS published in British Guiana : Guiana Times, at Monday & Georgetown | Friday }by J. Emery, Esq. Royal Gazette, at Tues. Th.&? Messrs. Bauon & Dallas, Georgetown | Saturday.. established 1805. Guiana Herald, at Same days Dr. Dodgson, establish- Georgetown . 2 ed 1842. Berbice Gazette, at Monday &, G. A. M‘Kidd, Esq., New Amsterdam | Thursday.. I established 1842. ( 63 ) JACMEL,--HAYTI, Is distant 720 miles from Grenada. This distance is accomplished in about three days. As the steamer calls merely for the exchange of mails and passengers, no delay is made, but she pro- ceeds at once to Jamaica. Hayti, or St. Domingo, was discovered by Colum- bus in 1492. It is next in size to Cuba, from which it is distant only twenty leagues. Placed between the 18th and 20th degrees of north latitude, and from 68° to 75° degrees west, it has a length of 360 miles from east to west, and breadth varying from 60 to 120 miles. Its circumference, measured by an even line, excluding its bays, is nearly a thousand miles. This island, so important for its situation and great natural advantages, is four times as large as Jamaica, and nearly equal in extent to Ireland. Jamaica lies westward about forty leagues; and Porto Rico twenty- two leagues eastward. On the north are the Bahama islands, at a distance of two or three days' sail; and southward, separated by 700 miles of ocean, is the great continent of South America. Columbus gave it the name of Hispaniola, and the name of San Domingo (in Spanish, Sunday), to a city he established in 1494, by which name the whole island, in process of time, came to be called; it has now resumed its original name of Hayti. The island is very rich in tropical products; the western side is remarkable for its fertility; and though the eastern side is by no means equal to the western, we are in- 64 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 formed upon respectable authority, that it contains certain districts which alone are capable of producing more sugar, and other valuable commodities, than all the British West Indian isles. The plains are not healthy for Europeans; the ther- mometer there rises as high as 99°, but the country is continually refreshed by breezes and rains, and its salubrity is increased by the beautiful variety of its surface. There are three principal chains of moun- tains. The whole of these are described as fertile and susceptible of cultivation, even to their summits. Their highest elevations are about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and these are covered with forests of mahogany, brazil-wood, palms, elms, oaks, pines, iron-wood, cedar, ebony, &c. The island is said to have its mines of gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, precious stones, and crystals. Its plains nourish vast herds of cattle, equal in every respect to those of Europe; and horses are reared in sufficient num- bers to supply all the West Indies. The French are therefore justified in designating this magnificent is- land La Reine des Antilles. “ It would be difficult,” remarks Mr. Candler, “ to a person not acquainted with mountain scenery in the tropics, to form a conception of the grandeur and loveliness of nature, as exhibited in these wonderful hills (the journey from Port au Prince to Jacmel). Jamaica and Martinique have scenes surpassing fable, but Hayti has prospects more beautiful, and is richer still. At many points everything but high hills and deep valleys is shut out from view. The hills in many places, to a considerable extent, being covered with timber trees, the growth perhaps of centuries, interspersed with the graceful cabbage palm,--the JACMEL-HAYTI. 65 tree of liberty, which is cultivated and fostered as the emblem of national freedom: the valleys and low rising ground being sprinkled with neat well- fenced cottages, green with Indian corn and the broad-leafed banana, or covered with numerous patches of the white flowering coffee. The people of Hayti, if they display no other refinement, shew admirable taste in the choice of place and situation to live in: some of the sweetest spots in the crea- tion are covered with their dwellings, where to all appearance at least, they live a peaceful, contented, and happy life. Were such a land as this colonized by Europeans, we should hear no end of its praise. The present race of Haytians have lately been described by a traveller, as a well-formed and robust people; seldom corpulent, but never thin; active in make, and vigorous in body. Their eyes are fine, their countenances quick and intelligent, and their teeth always well set, regular, and beautifully white. Their upright athletic make, and habitual consciousness of freedom, reminds the West Indian of the Jamaica Maroon. There is the same mien, the same gait, the same impression of liberty. The dress of this people is, in general, lively and grace- ful, and a general courtesy and decency prevail among all classes. The philanthropic Robert Owen, on his passage to Mexico a few years ago, touched at Jacmel, which he thus notices: “ It was a reli- gious holiday,-- everything was new to me, and more new, in consequence of its being the first free coloured population I had ever seen. It was better dressed, cleaner, more orderly, and more mild and polite in its demeanor the one to the other, than any working or trading people I had ever seen in any F 66 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. civilized country. There was more urbanity in the expression of countenance than I had witnessed in Europe and America.” Confidence in the common people of Hayti is rarely or never misplaced. Strangers may travel in every part of the country, night and day, without danger of being robbed or molested; and specie is safely sent from one part of the island to the other in bags only, in charge of a muleteer without guard. The population of Hayti may be estimated at 850,000 souls. The constitution of Hayti, as now embodied in the statutes of the island, was finally modified in 1816. The government of the republic is con- fided to a President, chosen for life, who has power to nominate his successor at death, reserving to the senate the right, if they see fit, to reject the no- mination, and choose any other citizen they may prefer. The legislative power is rested in three branches, which must all concur in passing the laws: 1st. The president, with whom all the laws originate: 2nd. The senate, chosen for nine years, who are selected from lists presented by the presi- dent to the House of Assembly for its choice: 3rd. The House of Representatives, chosen for five years by free election of the people assembled in their respective communes; who are professedly and in theory an independent body, at liberty to call in question the management of public affairs, and to address the president on any occasion, as often as they will. The salary of the president is 40,000 Haytien dollars per annum, with an extra salary of 30,000 dollars when engaged in any one year in tra- velling through the island on a tour of inspection JACMEL-HAYTI. 67 for the public good. Each senator has a salary paid by the state of 133 dollars per month; and each representative receives 200 dollars per month during the session of Congress. The Haytien dollar, at the present rate of exchange, is 18. 8d. The salary of the president, therefore, in sterling money, is £3,333; and, when travelling, £2,500 per annum in addition: the salary of a senator is £133 per annum; and that of a representative to the House of Assembly, during a session of three months, about £50. The president of Hayti, being governor for life, generalissimo of the forces, head of the church, and fountain of honour and rewards, is thus a sovereign in all but the name. The town of Jacmel stands at the head of a very fine bay, it consists of two parts; the lower town, built along the shore at the bottom of the bay where the shipping lies, and where business is carried on; and the upper town, built on a hill immediately be- hind the lower. The view of the port, with its white buildings and terrace-like form, is very striking from the water. The streets, however, are poor and ill-paved, and there are not many good houses; the best building in the place belongs to the president, who is seldom there, and which stands empty. The inhabitants are estimated at from 6,000 to 7,000. There is a good market place; a spacious and rather handsome parish church, and a strong prison. The public school of Jacmel is conducted on the monitorial system, under the care of an accomplished black man, who has about 70 scholars. There are also three private schools, where about 120 boys and girls are educated. The river Gauche, with its many mouths, empties itself into the bay west of the town. F 2 ( 69 ) For DURO DE CORTICE FRUTUS QUAM DULCIS. JAMAICA. The distance from Jacmel to Kingston, Jamaica, is 255 miles. This island, called by the natives, Xaymaca, which signifies a country abounding in springs, was dis- covered by Columbus on the 3rd of May, 1494. It is somewhat of an oval shape, about 160 miles long and 45 miles broad, and contains 4,000,000 of acres. Almost any temperature can be obtained from 80° at Kingston, to 42° on the summit of the mountain range. The air in the country is very light and en- livening, producing great cheerfulness and buoyancy of spirits. The Blue Mountains are an elevated ridge towering in some places to nearly 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, and running longitudinally through the island east and west. The Blue Mountains are sometimes in view ere we JAMAICA. 71 “ The unimaginable luxuriance,” remarks another writer, “of the herbage, the singular exotic appear- ance of all around, the green-house-like feel and temperature of the atmosphere, and the fresh flush of vegetable fragrance wafted from the shore, are all calculated to regale the senses, exhilarate the spirits, and diffuse through the soul a strange delirium of buoyant hope and joy. Jamaica, in a word, may be reckoned among the most romantic and highly- diversified countries in the world; uniting the rich magnificent scenery with waving forests, never-failing streams, and constant verdure can present, heightened by a pure atmosphere, and the glowing tints of a tropical sun. The rivers, including springs and rivulets, have been estimated at upwards of 200 in number: about 40 are of the largest class. From the mountainous nature of the country, and the huge masses of rock that_frequently obstruct their course, they are often precipitous, and exhibit numerous and beautiful cas- cades, now bursting headlong in the foam and thun- der of a cataract. The southern shores of Jamaica, diversified as they are with hill and dale, timber and cultivation, and the Blue Mountains for a back ground, afford a delightful coup d'oeil, though usually considered far inferior to the north side of the island. But the prospect on rounding the point, and entering the harbour of Port-Royal, is truly superb. On the south side of the island, the sea-breeze from the south-eastward comes on at nine or ten in the morning, and gradually increases until noon, when it is strongest; at two or three in the afternoon its force diminishes, and in general entirely ceases JAMAICA. 73 for no other purpose than that and voting the sup- plies; unless in consequence of special orders from England.” The success of the experiment upon Barbadoes (p. 25), had probably stimulated the King and his Ministers to this attempt, which in grossness, indeed, exceeded the former. The people of Jamaica, however, possessed the advantages of having an existing assembly,--their titles to their lands were not impeached,—and there had already begun a reaction in the minds of the English people, who were no longer so eager to please royalty at the expense of all that was just and honest, as they had been when Charles I. returned among them. Thus assisted, the colonists were successful at this time in their resistance. However, the great object in view, that of obtaining a perpetual revenue from Jamaica, was pertinaciously followed by the successive minis- tries from the second Charles to the first George; and at length, in 1728, a compromise was effected. The Assembly consented upon certain conditions to settle on the Crown a standing irrevocable revenue of £8,000 a year. The conditions were, Ist. That the quit rents arising within the island (then estimated at £1,460 per annum) should constitute part of such revenue; the 2nd was, That the body of their laws, the confirmation of which had been suspended by previous ministries in order to compel submission to the Home Government, should receive the royal assent; and 3rd. That such laws and statutes of England as had been at any time esteemed, intro- duced, used, or received as laws in this island, should be and continue the laws of Jamaica for ever. The Governor, the Chief Justice, the Attorney- General, the Bishop, the Commander of the Forces, 74 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. and the Chancellor, are all members of the Council, ex officio, and the others are selected from the most respectable and opulent of the inhabitants. They are twelve in number, and are addressed by the title of honorable. The Assembly consists of 47 mem- bers, being two representatives to each parish, and an additional one to the towns of Spanish Town, Kingston, and Port-Royal. Its duration is seven years. The qualification of a representative is the possession of a freehold of £300 per annum in any part of the island, or a real and personal estate of £3,000. One elector must possess a freehold estate in the parish in which he votes of the value of £6 sterling, or at a rent charge of £30 sterling, re- corded in the island secretary's office for twelve calendar months, and the right of voting thereon entered in the parish books, in the office of the clerk of the vestry, or clerk of the common council, six calendar months. He must be twenty-one years of age; and actually pay taxes to the amount of £3 sterling per annum. His specific place of abode must also be registered. He must take an oath as to his actual possession of the property; present a rent receipt from his landlord, and pay his taxes up to the term of his claiming to vote, and in continuity afterwards, as a condition of his continued privilege. The chief justice is nominated by the Govern- ment of England. The present possessor of this high office is his honour Sir Joshua Rowe. He is associated with two duly qualified assistants, the Hons. W. C. M‘Dougal and W. Stevenson. They hold their offices at the pleasure of the Queen in council, and have each a patent of office under the great seal of the island, as is the case with the JAMAICA. 75 judges and principal officers of all the other courts, who are removable only by the sanction of the Queen in council. Their salaries are paid by the island, and are as follow:-The chief justice, £4,000 per annum, and each of his associates about £2,000. The whole annual cost for the judicial establishment is £23,476. The annual revenue of Jamaica, including the local taxes of the different counties and parish ves- tries, is estimated at £600,000. It sustains its own government, and its ecclesiastical, naval and military establishments, (the salaries of the bishop and arch- deacon excepted,) besides yielding an annual revenue to the Crown of £10,000. The island is divided into three counties, Mid- dlesex, Surrey, and Cornwall; and these are sub- divided into twenty-three parishes. It contains six towns and twenty seven villages, independently of those which have been recently established by the peasantry. Port-Royal harbour is formed by an inlet of the sea, between the main-land and a long sand-bank, called the Palisades. At the point of this sand-bank stands Port-Royal, the principal naval station in the West Indies. The steamer goes ri up to the Royal Mail Com- pany's wharf at Kingston. Passengers get on shore directly from the ship to the wharf; or, if by shore- boats, for 6d. or 18. each passenger, according to distance and luggage. This latter is examined at the wharf by the custom-house officers, who in- variably show every consideration. Articles intro- duced as merchandize, and of British manufacture, pay an inland duty of 4 per Cent. 76 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Kingston is a large town, lying on a slope, with straight and moderately wide streets, but unpaved and dirty; the sand is many inches deep, and filth is allowed to remain a long time in the streets. Many houses are, however, extremely good and com- fortable; they are generally of two stories, with ve- randahs above and below. The English and Scotch churches are elegant buildings; the former is built on a lovely spot com- manding a splendid view of the city, the plains around, the amphitheatre of mountains, and the noble harbour of Port-Royal. At the top of the de- clivity on which Kingston is built, are the barracks, called Up Park Camp. The money is British sterling, as in England. All sorts of monies pass current. There are three banks, the Colonial, the Jamaica, and the Planters; all of first character and respectability. Hotels and lodging-houses are both numerous and respectable; of the latter, Mrs. Edwards's, Lower King-street, is to be recommended. The charge of living is generally about 88. per day, or 408. per week,-wines extra. All the conveniences for travelling are to be had in Kingston. Gigs, phạtons, saddle-horses, and mules, can be hired at about the following terms: Gigs, for morning or evening drives for the day Phæton and pair, morning or evening. for the day Saddle-horses 88. about 208. 208. 488. · per day 168. The city abounds with livery stables. Passports are only needed when going to foreign JAMAICA. 77 countries. The cost of obtaining one is 128. to 148.; the party must attend personally on the dif- ferent consuls. Kingston has almost daily communication, by small schooners, with the several other ports round the island. In these there is generally fair accom- modation for six to eight passengers. The places of worship are almost of every denomi- nation and creed. There are some first-rate schools, and instruction is given in several languages. The two theatres in Kingston are not much encou- raged. Occasionally a company of Italians come from the Havana and give operas for a couple of months. The merchants have their commercial and reading rooms, which are regularly supplied with English, American, and other foreign and West Indian pa- pers, periodicals, &c. These rooms are open from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; they are large and airy, and are in connexion with one of the hotels, being under the same roof. In the upper part of the town there is also an extensive and respectable club-house, or Athenæum, to which is attached a surperb library, billiard rooms, &c. The regular troops are thus in general appor- tioned :- In Kingston 150 Newcastle 700, distant 15 miles. At Up Park Camp. 500 2 miles. Port-Royal 300. There are usually one or two ships of war at Port- Royal, and a Government steamer. The stranger will see many things worthy of notice > 78 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. in Jamaica. All the natural productions are different to those of Europe. The pimento or Jamaica pepper- tree, which produces the “all-spice,”—of lofty grey trunk, and dark, polished, fragrant leaf, attains considerable size,-its green foliage often relieved by its delicate white blossom. The spice is a small berry which grows in bunches, and when ripe is like the elderberry in size and colour. Even the leaves of this lovely tree when pressed emit a strong aro- matic odour. When swept by the breeze they shed their spicy fragrance through the air, imparting a charm to nature truly indescribable. The lignum- vitæ, profusely adorned with small blue blossoms; the date palm, much exceeding the cocoa-nut tree in the luxuriance of its branches, and many delicate kinds of acacia. The mango trees may be said to cover the country, and, during the four summer months, afford abundance of delicious food to man, mules, horses, cows, and pigs. All animals seem equally fond of this fruit. Altogether there are fifty varieties of excellent timber, available to the archi- tect, the millwright, and the cabinet-maker. The birds also are numerous, beautiful and sweet-voiced. The turkey-buzzard is here protected from the fowler, because of its great use in clearing carrion away, and other sorts of unhealthy garbage. The other objects of interest are the Botanic Gardens at Bath, distant by the Port Road 48 milesi the Falls, distant about 8 miles on the Windward Road; two copper mines, yet in their infancy, in the Port-Royal mountains; the Silk Company's Works; the Blue Mountain Peak, distant 30 miles, the access to which is not now difficult for riding. This Peak is about 8,000 feet above the level of the JAMAICA. 79 sea. The scenery is most romantic through these rides, and the views extensive and magnificent. About 36 miles from Spanish Town, in the parish of St. Ann, are the works of the Jamaica Silk Com- pany: This company was incorporated by a local act, dated July, 1841. They purchased 378 acres of John Wilson Davis, Esq., on which they have erected two iron buildings and two wooden houses, and planted upwards of two hundred acres with mul- berry trees. The place is called Metcalfe Ville, after their late much-esteemed governor Sir C. Metcalfe. The soil is a red marl, impregnated with iron, and suits the mulberry trees extremely well, and the cli- mate in that part of the island is most congenial, the thermometer ranging from 56° to 75° F. In this cli- mate the mulberries are evergreen, and are sufficiently advanced in 12 months to produce food for the worms; in the temperate zones the trees generally take five years to come to the same perfection. They are not allowed to grow into large trees, but are cut down after attaining a certain height, and then spring up afresh from many stems. One of the iron buildings is 225 feet long by 68 feet wide, and 35 feet high. It is furnished with railways and carriages for the conveyance of the food to the height of the shelves where the insects are placed: this is the Cocoonery. Another of the iron buildings, called the Filature, is 110 feet by 50, in which is the reeling apparatus, worked by steam. As silk-worm's eggs require from six to eight months to mature before they hatch, it has been found necessary in this climate to give the eggs an artificial winter, otherwise they would dwindle and die. This artificial winter is obtained by the eggs being put into jars, and these into charcoal, and 82 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. R. M. Harrison, for the United States; J. L. Dugusnay, Esq., for Spain; Don J. F. Martin, for New Grenada, Colombia, and Mexico. R. Currie, Esq., is the agent to the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. 1840 1841 1842 Baptisms. 6,530 5,823 4,817 Marriages. 2,919 2,315 1,535 Burials. 1,506 1,691 1,643 1840. 1811. MILITIA. Infantry. Cavalry. 1840 9,035 554 1841 9,066 546 1842 8,601 572 SCHOLARS, (sexes not distinguished.) Church of England... 6,026 Wesleyan Methodists.. 2,741 Baptist 2,051 United Brethren... 1,428 London Missionary Society 480 Scotch.. 1,924 Jamaica Missionary Presbytery.. 451 Mico Charity 6,655 2,541 651 2,513 15,101 12,360 SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 843 118,237 7,206 1840 .. 687 93,879 5,774 1842 .. 765 126,593 7,194 1842 .. 738 118,665 5,830 No returns for 1841. | 18 WAGES OF LABOURERS. 1810. 1841. 1812. Domestic, per week.. 10s. to 16s. .. 10s. to 16s. .. 7s. to 16s. Predial, per day.. Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d.. Is. 6d. to 2s.6d.. Is. 6d. Trades.. 3s. to 4s. 6d... 3s. to 4s. 6d... 4s. 6d. JAMAICA. 83 S. S. d. 8. d. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. d. Wheaten Bread, pr 17 ozs. 1840 0 4.1841 0 41 1842 0 41 Beef, per lb... 06 0 6 0 6 Mutton 1 3 1 3 1 3 Pork 09 09 09 Rice, per quart.. 06 1 6 06 Coffee, per lb. 20 2 0 1 6 Tea, 8 0 80 8 0 Sugar, brown 09 09 0 41 Amount of PAPER CURRENCY at close of 1842. Island Checks Colonial Bank Notes Jamaica ditto Planters' ditto £40,000 0 0 80,247 90 84,887 0 0 62,466 7 0 £267,600 16 0 Declared value of IMPORTS and EXPORTS in 1840 was- Imports. . £2,183,917. Exports.. £2,208,985. The proportion of Compensation, paid under the Emanci. pation Act--£6,161,927 5s. 10d., sterling. {Daily } by The following NEWSPAPERS are published in Jamaica. Jamaica Times, ats by J. 0. Clerk, established Kingston . 1843. Jordan and Osborn, es- Ditto at ditto.... tablished 1838. by J. Lunan, established 1832. Royal Gazette, at s 0. Shannon, established ditto.... 1779. Middlesex Gazette, 5 Wednesd. 2, Judah and Nelme, esta- at Spanish Town & Saturday S blished 1843. Marrinco , Journal , { Jamaica Despatch, { Daily } by Ditto G 2 84 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. SOCIETY ON JAMAN } Cornwall Courier, { Executors of Wm. Dyer, Wednesd. at Falmouth.... established 1822. Falmouth Post, at 5 Wednesd. J. Castello, established ditto.......... I & Saturday 1835. Baptist Herald, at s W. Knibb, established Wednesd. ditto.. ¿ 1840. Cornwall Chronicle, S Wednesd. l, A. Holmes, established at Montego Bay. & Saturday ) 1781. URAL, RO PERSEVERANCE RODNID TRD 86 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Domingo it is distant 14 leagues, and from the most southerly of the Bahama islands the distance is 15 leagues. Its greatest length, in a straight line from E. to W., is 572 miles. The superficial or territo- rial extent is 31,468 square miles. The narrow form of the island, and the cordillera of mountains which divides it into two unequal sections throughout its whole length, leaves a very limited course for its rivers and streams, more especially those that belong to the northern side. In the rainy season they be- come torrents, but during the rest of the year they are nearly dried up. The distance from Kingston, Jamaica, to Havana, is 740 miles. The course of the steamer is south of Jamaica and of Cuba, round Cape Antonio. Cape Corrientes is also passed, and has sometimes been mistaken for Cape Antonio, which is more to the westward. The first sight of the Havana from the entrance of the harbour is exceedingly cheerful and pic- turesque. In the back ground the gigantic palm trees seem to overlook the city, and to form for it a magnificent frame-work of the richest verdure; while on the other sides the panorama is completed by the animated harbour within, covered with the flags of every nation, the rocky eminence at the entrance, and the formidable fortifications by which the whole are protected. The most agreeable land view which can be had of the city is perhaps to be found from the hill called the Indio, on the road between Regla and Guanabacoa on the other side of the harbour. The harbour is one of the best in the world, being deep enough for vessels of the largest class, and sufficiently capacious to accommodate a thousand HAVANA. 87 ships. The entrance is by a channel three-quarters of a mile long, but so narrow that only a single vessel can enter at once, and fortified through the whole distance with platforms, works, and artillery. The mouth of this channel is secured by two strong castles. That on the eastern side, called the Morro Castle, is built in the form of a triangle, fortified with bastions, and mounted with forty pieces of can- non, almost level with the water. On the opposite side of the channel is another strong fort, called the Puntal, connected with the town, to the north. The city is situated on the western side of the har- bour, and is surrounded by ramparts, bastions, and ditches. Besides these fortifications it is surmounted with works, all of them furnished with artillery, even to profusion. A square citadel (El Fuerte) stands at the N.E. corner of the town: this work has, also, heavy cannon; and here the treasures of the government are deposited. In 1672, during the war with Spain, the English under Lord Albemarle laid siege to Havana, and took it after a desperate assault. On the 6th of June of that year, the British squadron, counting 250 vessels of all sizes, appeared off the coast. The Spaniards had a large feet of ships of war in the harbour, had mounted their fortresses with heavy guns, and made all necessary warlike prepa- rations. They had in the forts and city of regular troops and militia, 27,610 men under arms. The priests and women were sent out of the city, and vast preparations were made to stand a siege by laying in ample supplies of provisions. They sunk three ships in the harbour's mouth to prevent the entrance of the British fleet, and their fortresses 88 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. were defended by men of great courage and valour. The British land forces numbered 14,041 men of all arms; their loss was very considerable both by the climate and from the desperate defence of the enemy. The Cabanas soon fell into the hands of the English, who approached from the land side, having landed the troops to the east of Havana. But it was not until after 44 days of unwearied exertion, with a loss to the Spaniards of upwards of 1000 men, that the Morro was taken. With the Morro, 304 pieces of cannon, 11 mortars, and a large supply of small arms and ammunition, fell into the hands of the English. Still, however, the Spaniards bravely de- fended the city, but the English, who now could turn their own cannon against them, demolished all their fortifications, and after some slight delay in negotiation, the city of Havana finally was taken possession of. It was just two months and eight days from the date of the arrival of the expedition to the day that the British took possession of the city. With the capital there was given up the whole territory annexed to it,-extending 180 miles to the westward; so that this conquest was the most con- siderable, and in its consequences the most decisive, of all that had taken place throughout the course of It had besides all the effect of a naval victory. Nine ships of the line fell into the hands of the conquerors; three had been sunk in the har- bour; and two, far advanced on the stocks, were destroyed. The loss to the Spaniards in ships of war, merchant ships, money, tobacco, and other articles of value, was estimated at £3,000,000 ster- ling. On the return of peace in 1763, Havana was restored to the Spaniards. The keys of the city the war. HAVANA. 89 were formally delivered up to the Conde de Ricla, on whom the government had been conferred on the 7th of July in that year, and the English garrison was embarked for Europe. In the city the streets are in general so narrow, that except where one crosses another, it is with difficulty that the peculiar carriage of the country, the volante, with its long shafts and enormous pair of wheels, can be made to turn; but in the suburbs, the streets are better laid out and more spacious. The suburbs now cover more ground and contain a larger population than the city itself. Latterly the regulations of the police, and the cleanliness of all parts of the town, have much improved. The wharves of the Havana, at which merchant ships discharge, are large and serviceable. The ships lie while dis- charging with their stems and sterns to the shore; and in that way 36 ships of the largest class, and an equal number of coasters have frequently lain there alongside each other. Passengers are landed by shore-boats; the steamer lies at about a mile from the shore. The usual charge is į to 1 dollar, according to the weather; an agreement should be first made with the boatmen. Luggage must be sent to the custom-house, and passengers attend either personally, or send their keys to the custom-house officers. These officers are particularly sharp at detecting anything new, on which duty should be charged. No passengers can land unless they have passports and fiadors; and persons having neglected to procure them, have not only been refused permission to land, but have been kept on board the ship during her stay, and sent back in the same ship in which they came. 90 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. On leaving, parties must attend personally to receive their passports. The cost is 61 dollars each. The following Official Notice was issued by His Excellency the Captain-General of Cuba, 23rd Nov. 1843:- 1.—That the Captains of Vessels of every Nation, upon ar- riving at Ports in this Island, shall deliver to the “ Adjutant of the Visit” a List of all Passengers on board, signed by the Captain. II.—That if Passengers arrive by the said Vessels with a view to remain, and not “in transit,” the “Adjutant of the Visit” shall collect the Passports and examine them, and if he find them regular and in order (see Article V.), shall permit the Passengers to land, under this positive understanding, that they present themselves within twenty-four hours at the “ Poli. tical Secretary's Office,” to take out the proper permit of dis- embarkation, accompanied by a responsible person as Surety the Government for their good conduct during One Year of residence in the Island. III.—That those who do not comply with these conditions, or who arrive without proper Passports, shall pay a Fine of from Ten to Twenty-five Dollars, and yet remain amenable for any infraction of the Island Regulations they may be guilty of. IV.-Passengers who do not deliver their Passports to the Adjutant at the time of “ Visit,” in the manner herein set forth, or who fail in any of the formalities indicated, are not to land without special permission, which will be given them after they have entered into the required Sureties. V.-To determine what Passports are in proper form, it is to be understood all such are, as are granted to Passengers by the Local Authorities of the places where they embark, if Spaniards ; and if Foreigners, in addition thereto they shall be vizé by the Spanish Consuls at such Ports. VI.—Under the like formalities of presenting a List of Pas- sengers, signed by the Captain, and of its previous comparison by the “ Adjutant of the Visit,” (but without taking away their Passports), all Passengers arriving by Vessels that touch at or 92 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. belonging to the higher classes being much more extensive. The doors and windows of these houses are generally very large and lofty ; the latter are open from the floor of the room, and are not glazed, but are secured by iron or wooden bars, which give them a prison-like appearance. The rooms, in ge- neral, contain very little furniture. There has not been any regular census of the whole population since the year 1827, when it amounted, including whites, free negroes, free people of colour and slaves, and also including the troops, the crews of vessels in the harbour, the followers of both, and other transient persons, to 730,562. But since 1827, the general population must have considerably encreased. As regards the free inhabitants this is proved by the exorbitant rents which are obtained for houses in towns notwithstanding the vast numbers which have constantly been building. At Havana it is not un- usual to pay as much as £300 sterling a year for a house of not more than five or six rooms; and even then the indispensable volante must stand in the lobby or gateway, and not unfrequently in the prin- cipal sitting-room, for the reception of visitors. The dress of the whites varies very little from that of Europe. The coloured people dress as they can, some being almost naked, while others are very smart. “I noticed one black beauty,” writes a friend, “who wore a white muslin dress, a bright scarlet shawl, and light blue shoes.” Doubloons or onzas, dollars, pesos and reals, are the current monies. Mr. Turnbull gives the following description of the bank:-" The only incorporated banking esta- blishment at the Havana is that called the Royal HAVANA. 93 Bank of Ferdinand the Seventh, which was created in the year 1827, during the administration of Bal- lasteros at Madrid, at the instance of Senor Penillos, since raised to the dignity of Conde de Villanueva. The first directors were the Conde de Santovenia, the Conde de la Reunion de Cuba, and Don Joaquin Gomez. The capital of this bank, amounting to a million of dollars, was provided by the Spanish government. Its business is confined to the dis- counting of promissory notes and bills of exchange; and the directors are prohibited from engaging in any other speculation, however lucrative it may ap- pear, under the pain of being held personally re- sponsible. The rate of discount is fixed at the rate of 10 per cent. per annum; the currency, of the notes or bills of exchange discounted is limited to three months, and the directors are forbidden to give credit to any one individual, or to any single house of business, beyond the limit of ten thousand dollars. Two signatures satisfactory to the ma- jority of the directors are declared to be indis- pensable; and unusual precautions are taken for the preservation of secrecy, in the event of rejec- tion. Should the bills or notes discounted remain unpaid at maturity, the directors are authorised, if the debtor be a merchant, to seize the goods which may stand in his name at the custom-house, or in the bonded warehouses of the government; and if he be a planter or hacendado, they are in like man- ner authorised, should sufficient produce not be forth- coming, to confiscate his domestic slaves and his household furniture; and should these also prove in- sufficient to extinguish the debt, then authority is given to attach the field slaves, and live stock, and 94 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. such other personal property as may be found on the debtor's estates. After such confiscation the di- rectors are prohibited from interrupting the proceed- ings against the debtor, by the acceptance of security for the debt, or on any other ground but the actual payment of the money. No new discount is to be given to an individual or a house of business once guilty of irregularity in their payments, for a period of three years at least, however much their circum- stances may in the mean time have improved; and individuals applying for discount are to understand that they renounce in favour of the bank all personal privileges and immunities to which they may be en- titled. Even the dowry of the wife is declared to be liable for the whole amount of the bank's claims against the husband. “The directors of the bank are held responsible for their proceedings to the government to the extent of a hundred thousand dollars each. For this amount, hypothecs or mortgages over real property are to be taken. The cashiers, book-keepers, clerks, and ser- vants of the bank are named by the directors, by whom the salaries are fixed. Each director is to keep one of the three keys of the strong box; and no payment is to be made without the presence of at least one director, who may receive and use the keys of his colleagues. The responsibility of the direc- tors is limited to the case of their granting discounts to persons not known to be in the possession of pro- perty, and in the notorious enjoyment of credit; and to their infringement of the rules of the bank, which, in this respect, are assimilated to the laws which go- vern the administration of the national finances. An account is to be presented to the President, weekly, HAVANA. 95 of the state of the funds; and once a month he is to assist, in person, at the verification of the cash, which the directors are required to have balanced. At the end of each year, a general balance of the affairs of the bank is to be struck, and after being examined by the Court of Accounts, and approved of by the President, it is to be published for public information. The directors are authorised to appro- priate 20 per cent. of the profits during the year to the payment of the salaries of the officers of the establishment and the other expenses of management. The business of the bank has hitherto been in a great measure confined to the management of the financial affairs of the colony. No notes are issued; but pro- vision is made in the Reglamento, or code of laws for its government, that in the event of its becoming desirable to augment the active capital, deposits may be received and interest paid thereon, at the rate of 7 per cent. per annum. Should the property of foreigners be so deposited, it is declared to be under the royal protection, and not be liable to confiscation or attachment on account of war, or reprisals, or un- der any other pretext whatever. These provisions of the code for the increase of the capital have not, how- ever, yet been acted on; so that, upon the whole, its capital is too small, and its management too com- plicated to enable the institution to be of much practical use to the public.” The periodical literature of the island is more considerable than might have been expected, under the paralyzing influence of an unsparing censorship. There are eight newspapers published in Cuba, of which four are daily, viz., the Diario de la Havana, and the Noticioso y Lucero, both belonging to the 96 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. capital, and the circulation of which are said to be considerable, the Aurora, of Matanzas, and the Redactor de Cuba, published at Santiago. The other four are the Eco de Villaclara, the Correo de Tri- nidad, the Gaceta de Puerta Principe, and the Fenix of Sancti-Spiritus. Besides the newspapers, there are published at the Havana, several literary periodicals, such as the Album, the Mariposa, the Siempreviva, the Cartera, and the Memorias de la Real Sociedad Patriotica. The only carriages used in Havana are the “vo- lantes," a sort of cabriolet with very long shafts and two wheels, each of them six feet in diameter, placed quite in the rear of the vehicle. A negro slave drives à la postilion, generally dressed in a smart livery. Agreements should be made with these drivers, when hiring them, as otherwise their demands are very exorbitant. Some of the private volantes are elegant, and the liveries exceedingly rich. There are some charming promenades in Havana. The Paseo de Tacon, formed by the late Governor, is particularly worthy of notice. It is the rendezvous of the beau monde, especially on Sundays, when there is a constant succession of volantes. The Paseo is very long, and is ornamented with several foun- tains and statues. Another favourite place of resort is the Plaza des Armas near the Governor's Palace. Here, in a beautiful garden, shaded by various trees, the military bands play from 8 to 9 o'clock on several evenings during the week. “I am delighted” writes Fanny Elssler, (Frazer's Mag. No. 171), “that I have come hither, not for the extension of my renommée merely, but rather for the charm I find in every thing that surrounds me. HAVANA, 97 The sky, the clime, its luscious plants,--the people, their generosity, their hospitality,—and scenes and sights that are so novel and pleasing, -all combine to make my residence here indescribably pleasant, and will furnish my memory with some of its most brilliant retrospections. ... Imagine yourself just with- out the city walls, moving gently along on the afore- said volante over a smooth road of upwards of a mile in length, planted on either side with double rows of young, but thriving trees, adorned with graceful fountains in marble, whose trickling waters fall gratefully on the ears. At one end of the road we are just turning, you see a very noble edifice ; you mistake it for a nobleman's palace. Imposing as is its exterior, it is devoted to darkness and crime within : it is the Tacon Prison. In ascending you observe that this part of the road is but newly opened, and as yet incomplete. A fountain is erecting here, the grounds adjoining are being laid out for orna- mental purposes, and there some pretty houses are in process of erection. On reaching the middle part of the promenade we find ourselves opposite the main entrance to the town, with a very striking building of great dimensions rearing its colonnade on the right. I look upon that, you see, with a familiar glance of recognition—that is the Tacon Theatre. We pass on and find ourselves in the most beautiful portion of the Paseo. It is evidently the favourite resort of the crowd. It is six o'clock, the witching hour; for now the scorching sun of noonday has passed on his fiery course, casting back the mild radiance of his declining rays, softening the beauty of earth, and shedding a glory upon the southern skies that it is delight to look upon. At this lovely hour behold H 98 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. every city gate pouring forth its daily frequenters of the Paseo ; the walks are crowded by gay pedestrians in sociable converse ; while the stone benches, libe- rally provided for the loungers, are occupied by others who calmly gaze on the panorama before them, luxuriating in the passionate enjoyment of their cigaritos. “On either side of the carriage-road is a string of volantes moving in opposite directions, of all shapes, colours, and pretensions, the elegantly adorned and silver-embossed harness of the rich noble's “turn- out,” to the more unpretending one of the homely cit. It is amusing to see the passion a Havaneco has for a volante; it seems with him the first neces- sary of life, —his vade mecum, his food and drink, making his life luxurious, and his ambition contented. There is more in this than the mere usage, or as determining his claim to respectable competence; in truth, the climate requires this indispensable agrémen. Just look at those ladies in their open volante in full dress, as is the custom of an afternoon on the Paseo. Low dresses, short sleeves, no bonnets, a graceful mantilla supplies its place, fans in their hands, roses in their hair, fire in their eyes, mischief in their glances, smiling soft recognitions to friends and acquaintances. How could such things be if their toes were cold, and a sharp wind was making havoc with their noses? I tell you the air is balmy, the sky serene as a good woman's conscience, and the warmth languidly oppressive, and it is the 10th day of February, 1841. 1996 33 There are two theatres; one called “El Teatro Principal,” is close to the bay, and is remarkable for its curious roof, which is like a boat turned keel HAVANA. 99 upwards. The other, erected by General Tacon near the Paseo, and called “El Teatro de Tacon,” is a large and elegant building. The interior is exceed- ingly light and chastely ornamented; the boxes are merely separated by a slight railing; and the pit-seats have backs and arms, and are numbered. Besides these theatres there is un Plaza de Toros, or place for bull-fights. The cathedral will repay the traveller for a visit. It is a plain but noble building, and the monuments are disposed generally with good taste. It contains some good pictures and a fine marble monument, sur- mounted by a statue of the Virgin. On the right of this an urn, containing the remains of Columbus, * is • The proper name of him whom we call Columbus, was in Italian Christoforo Colombo; given in Spanish as Cristoval Colon; in French, Cristophe Colombe. It has been Latinized into Columbus; but the “u," says a learned and ingenious friend, “is a barbarism, neither consonant with the genius of the language, nor with the fact as to the name." The birth-place of Colombo was Coguretto, a maritime village on the coast, about four leagues westward from Genoa : the same which is represented as Cogoletto and Cocolata. Here this illustrious man was born, in or subsequent to 1442, and he died at Valladolid in Spain, in 1506, where a tomb erected to his memory, was inscribed, “ A Castillo y a Leon, Nuevo Mundo dio Colon." To Castile and Leon Colon has given a New World. The following is from Washington Irving's most interesting account of the life and voyages of Columbus. “The body of Columbus was deposited in the convent of S. Fran- cisco, and his obsequies were celebrated with funereal pomp in the parochial church of Santa Maria de la Antigua, in Valladolid. His remains were transported, in 1513, to the Carthusian convent of Las Cuevas, at Seville, and deposited in the chapel of Santa Christo. In the year 1536, they were removed to Hispaniola, and interred by the side of the grand altar of the cathedral of the city of San Domingo. But even here they did not rest in quiet. On the cession of Hispaniola to the French in 1795, it was determined by the Spaniards to bear them off to the island of Cuba as precious relics, connected with the most glorious epoch of Spanish history. Accordingly, on the 20th December, 1795, in the presence of an august assemblage of the dig- nitaries of the church and the civil and military officers, the vault was opened beside the high altar of the cathedral : within were found the fragments of a leaden coffin, a number of bones, and a quantity of mould, evidently the remains of a human body. These were carefully H 2 100 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. enclosed in the wall, behind a fine basso relievo, in marble, of the bust of the great navigator, the size of life, under which is the following inscription: “O Restos é Imagen del grande Colon Mil siglos durad guardados en la urna Y en la remembrancia de nuestra nacion." O remains and image of the great Columbus, For a thousand ages continue preserved in this urn, And in the remembrance of our nation. Opposite to the tomb of Columbus there is a small and beautiful painting, bearing date 1473, and said to represent the Pope and Cardinals celebrating mass previous to the expedition of Columbus. “Besides the cathedral, the city contains nine pa- rish churches; six other churches, connected with hos- pitals, and military orders; five chapels or hermitages; the Casa Cuna, a foundling hospital; and eleven con- vents, four for women and seven for men; some of which last, during the administration of Captain- collected, and put into a case of gilded lead, secured by an iron lock; the case was enclosed in a coffin covered with black velvet, and the whole placed in a temporary mausoleum. On the following day there was another grand convocation at the cathedral : the vigils and masses for the dead were chanted, and a funeral sermon was preached by the archbishop. After these solemn ceremonials in the cathedral, the coffin was transported to the ship, attended by a grand civil, religious, and military procession. The banners were covered with crape; there were chants and responses, and discharges of artillery; and the most distinguished persons of the several orders took turns to support the coffin. The reception of the body at Havana was equally august. There was a splendid procession of boats to conduct it from the ship to the shore. On passing the vessels of war in the barbour, they all paid the honours due to an admiral and captain-general of the navy. On arriving at the mole, the remains were met by the governor of the island, accompanied by the generals of the military staff. They were then conveyed in the uimost pomp to the cathedral. Masses and the solemn ceremonies of the dead were performed by the bishop, and the mortal remains of Columbus were deposited in the wall, on the right side of the grand altar, where they still remain.” HAVANA. 101 General Tacon, were used as barracks and applied to other secular purposes. The other public establish- ments are the University, the Colleges of San Carlos and San Francisco de Sales, the Botanic Garden, the Anatomical Museum and Lecture-rooms, the Aca- demy of Painting and Design, a School of Navigation, and seventy-eight common schools for both sexes. These places of education are all under the protection of the Patriotic Society, and the municipal autho- rities. The charitable institutions consist of the Casa de Beneficencia for both sexes, a penitentiary or Magdalen asylum, and seven hospitals, one of them containing a lunatic asylum. There are several mineral springs in the island; and coal, highly bituminous and of an excellent quality, has been found close to the surface and within ten miles of Havana. But the roads are so bad that little of this has yet been worked. There are frequent communications by steam from Havana to other parts of the island, viz.: three times a week to Matanzas, at the charge of 6 dollars; once a month to St. Jago de Cuba, by railway 42 miles, across to Batabano in the south, from whence the steamer starts for St. Jago de Cuba, calling at Cienfuegos, Trinidad de Cuba, Santa Cruz, and Man- zanillo; and returning from St. Jago on the 14th of each month, calling at the same places. The whole passage is performed in six days, including landing and stoppages; passage and fare to St. Jago, in- cluding railway to Batabano, is 85 dollars. To New Orleans there is communication twice a month, by the Alabama, American steamer. She stops at Havana from four and a half to six days, and is generally there when the Royal Mail steamers 102 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. arrive. She is a large and commodious vessel, ex- ceedingly clean and comfortable. Her commander and part-owner, Mr. Windle, is an intelligent gen- tlemanly Englishman. She makes the passage to New Orleans in about three days and a half. Pas- sage-money, 40 dollars, including an excellent table; wines and spirits extra. The Government is a military despotism; there are about 16,000 military on the island. The thermometer ranges from 60° to 96° of Fa- renheit, in the shade. Winter is the healthy season; it commences in November and lasts till February. It is generally in May that the rainy season com- mences, but sometimes it begins in April, and occa- sionally not till June. Of late years, however, the island suffers much more from excessive drought than from rain, this is ascribed, with some appear- ance of truth, to the cutting down of the trees. The dews are both copious, and to Europeans, dangerous. There are many physicians. Dr. Meikleham, a Scotchman, residing near the cathedral is in high estimation. Joseph Tucker Crawford, Esq., is her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General at Havana, and Agent for the Royal Mail Steam Packets. HAVANA. 103 Comparative Table of EXPORTS of SUGAR and COFFEE, from 1st January to 31st December, 1840, 1841, 1842, 1843, PROM THE CIRCULARS OF MESSRS. DRAKE, BROTHERS, AND CO., OF HAVANA. SUGAR IN BOXES. From HAVANA. From MATANZAS. 1840. 1841. 1842. 1843. 1840. 1841. 1842. 1843. England 25,338 17,343 15,785 22,1141||_,3,625 2,974 1,535 | 8,252 Cowes and a market 94,107 | 90,332 109,888|127,961 70,676 31,621 | 67,079 67,459 Russia 41,778 52,585 24,403 48,080 36,301 57,132 39,235 56,122 Sweden and Denmark. 1,570 2,620 1,205 3,102 4,078 Hamburgh 64,157 34,957 49,395| 48,811 36,323 33,626 40,348 37,060 Bremen 14,991 11,147 | 15,067| 12,038 8,833 6,213 | 10,570 4,253 Holland 15,084 15,397 11,804 14,274 4,466 6,154 3,564 5,265 Belgium 16,869 15,992 22,135 8,012 11,570 7,702 4,429 Havre and Bordeaux 4,547 2,222 3,349 1,347 242 1,012 1,138 | 2,700 Marseilles 14,109 | 12,532 21,233 21,370 4,756 | 10,603 | 10,290 7,757 Spain 65,864 86,261 76,825 69,6941|| 17,116 29,500 21,498 16,532) Italy. 10,460 6,254 7,358 5,594 8,349 6,347 | 10,870 8,768 New York 21,287 37,616 22,982 20,604 9,016 14,447 14,894 15,1401 Boston 20,390 23,074 13,572 10,263 20,736 24,883 20,182 17,739 Charleston (S. C.) 1,652 1,765 2,030 1,072 7,652 7,824 7,193 5,1791 New Orleans 10,691 12,076 3,858) 6,300 481 2,510 Mobile 569 138 102 146 260 Other parts of the U.S. 14,058 7,667 8,583 3,2231|| 16,566 12,407 4,046 | 5,594 Various 6,803 4,486 5,891 4,997 2,429 6,752 8,324 8,4411 TOTAL. 444,324 434,464/415,465 429,0033|263,215 261,967\260,766270,692 The average net weight of a Box of Sugar is 400 lbs. British. 104 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE.. ARROBES OF COFFEE. From HAVANA. From MATANZAS. 1840. 1841. 1842. 1843. 1840. 1841. 1842. 1843. England 20,670 13,031 60,074 2,990 120 6 786 Cowes and a market 59,407) 16,516 2,941 1,297 33,858 1,651 4,954 Russia 186 551 4,424 678 1,890 90 3,274 969 Sweden and Denmark. 6,092 14 336 Hamburgh 87,351 29,626 90,964 127,097}|| 32,946 471 2,318 11,380 Bremen 60,595 45,488 56,238 24,5011|| 24,426 12,638 1,937 2,955 Holland 3,567 30 8,144 1,890 2,736 Belgium 4,902 976 1,355 2,381 3,000 528 Havre and Bordeaux 112,732 75,585 123,273 54,782 6,912 3,831 | 11,684 Marseilles 114,927 97,816 213,903 48,806 8,331 9,158 14,107 | 10,994 Spain 45,205 23,841 50,789 36,1363|| 16,720 9,484 26,513 4,192 Italy 76,484 17,334 56,402 51,781 2,701 1,374 22,203 841 New York 53,956 4,268 23,656 29,917 20,724 3,516 22,430 | 17,023 Boston 13,696 2,418 27,772 4,489 28,758 2,292 22,712 9,766 Charleston (S. C.) 27,122 15,121 8,475) 12,596 21,476 | 16,419 23,180 9,411 New Orleans 426,883 272,102 185,674 217,806 79,313 31,496 9,196 Mobile 81,337| 65,691 48,849| 23,174|| 7,182 10,608 Various 69,914 40,215 10,500 31,2093|| 18,506 4,905 4,742 7,222 Other ports of the U. S.. 2,835 4,879 40,364 37,454 19,474 5,628 | 12,469 | 15,195 TOTAL.. 1,267,8611725,488 1,013,783 708,9993||329,289|108,199|161,343 117,096 The average net weight of an Arrobe of Coffee is 25} Ibs. British. There were also shipped from Havana in the year 1840, 137,600 boxes of Segars, containing 1000 in each box, and 1,025,261 lbs. of leaf Tobacco. The receipts of the year in the treasury were 9,743,187 dollars, 11 reals, or equal to nearly £1,960,000 sterling. In the same year, 1083 foreign merchant vessels entered the port, also 552 Spanish merchantmen, 71 vessels of war, and 23 Spanish, making a total of 1729 vessels. 106 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Should the voyager be crossing the bay of Mexico when the moon is near the full, he may be gratified with a sight of the rising of that luminary, far sur- passing in splendour anything of a similar character in our northern hemisphere. She will be seen to rise from the line of the horizon with a dark, scarlet hue, like a mass of fire. The voyager may also be subject to the influence of one of those fierce blasts, that come on suddenly from the north, called “Nortes.' The effect of these gales are to be feared should a sailing ship be near the shore; but in a steamer they are of triding consequence, except that they may for a time prevent the passsenger from embarking or landing. Nothing can be more melancholy than the appearance of Vera Cruz during one of these winds. The air is filled with sand, and the sky darkened with clouds, while the waves are driven with such impetuosity upon the beach, that the whole line of coast is one sheet of foam. All communication between the shipping and the town is suspended, even when at anchor under the walls of the castle, which are not half a mile from the pier-head. The rapidity with which these gales come on is equal to their violence. A little ripple from the north first indicates their approach, and if boats are out, or on shore, not an instant should then be lost in placing them in security. In five minutes the strength of a whole boat's crew may be exerted in vain, in order to keep the head of the boat towards the sea ; they may succeed in carrying it through the shoal water off Mocambo Point, but if they trust again to their oars, they will be compelled to abandon the attempt. These winds, however, are of great importance to the health of the inhabitants, as they VERA CRUZ. 107 66 drive away the malaria which collects along the coast, and over the sand hills in the vicinity of the city of the “holy cross,” and while they continue, there is no danger in the detention on shore. Should the atmosphere happen to be clear, you may catch a view of the snow-covered Peak of Orizava, the “Star Mountain,” elevated 17,375 feet above the level of the sea. A passenger, in des- cribing this magnificent object at sun-set, has said of it, “on a sudden, its towering peak, black with its own shadow, and appearing in the mid-heavens, became distinctly visible to our naked sight, while its base, and three-fourths of its height, were invi- sible from the distance. Enveloped in clouds, one of the most solemn effects I ever beheld was pro- duced by this giant Atlas.” Nothing can be more splendid,” remarks Mr. Ward, " than the Peak of Orizava, when the veil of clouds, which but too frequently conceals it during the day, yields to the last rays of the setting sun. Such a sun-set, and such a mountain, can only be seen beneath the tropics, where everything is upon a gigantic scale, and where, from the purity of the atmosphere, even the flood of light from above seems propor- tioned to the magnitude of the objects upon which it is poured. Orizava is said to be visible in very clear weather at sea, at the distance of 150 miles. Its distance from Vera Cruz is about 60 miles, west. Its form is conical. In 1545 it was volcanic, and continued in action for twenty years, since which time there has been no appearance of eruption. Though the summit be covered with snow, the sides below are adorned with beautiful forests of cedars, pines, and other trees. 108 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The Coffer of Perote, another high mountain, (so called from a mass of rock, in the shape of a chest, which distinguishes the crest of the mountain), is also visible from a great distance; it is to the right of Orizava, with which it is connected by a long chain of intervening mountains, and the two together form a beautiful termination to the view from Jalapa. The Coffer is nearly 4,000 feet lower than Orizava, and looks quite diminutive when the peak is visible at the same time, although, when not seen together, the eye rests with satisfaction upon so magnificent an object. Point Delgado, a lofty rock, is the first portion of the coast that appears in sight. Then, steering southward, the light-house and Castle of San Juan de Ulua become visible, and afterwards, Vera Cruz appears, which with its numerous red and white cupolas, domes, towers, and battlements, has a splendid appearance from the water. The passage to Vera Cruz is through a narrow channel, between sunken coral reefs, upon one ex- tremity of which the castle is erected, the walls ap- pearing to rise directly out of the water. On the eastern side the reef is elevated just above the level of the sea. Ships anchor under the western wall of the castle, distant about a mile from the Mole or landing-place at the city. Passengers are landed by shore-boats at about 14 to 5 dollars, according to the quantity of luggage. Luggage must be examined at the entering-office of the port; the officers are generally very civil and considerate. Passengers are allowed to introduce such clothing as may appear necessary and reasonable for their personal use. Ready-made clothing, as an VERA CRUZ. 109 article of merchandize, is prohibited. Articles of merchandize, as enumerated in the Mexican tariff, cannot be introduced by the steamers, as these vessels do not pay tonnage-dues, nor declare their cargo. Money cannot be conveyed on board by passengers without the payment of the export-duty, augmented since the 16th June, 1843, from 31 to 6 per Cent. Neither are they allowed to embark precious metals or mineralogical specimens collected in the country, without especial permission from the Government. Passengers must bring passports from the Ministers or Consuls of the Republic abroad, without which they cannot land; and on embarking, they must pro- cure passports from the proper authorities at Vera Cruz. The cost is 2 dollars; and they will have to attend personally. In London, passports are obtained from the Mexican Minister free of charge, application being made by letter from a merchant or banker to his Excellency Don Thomas Murphy, 7, Suffolk Place, Regent's Park. There is something “triste” and gloomy about Vera Cruz; an effect which is heightened by the numerous vultures, called Sopilotes, that hover over the city, or wander through the streets, or after their meal of garbage, cover the church towers. Yet these birds are most useful, and the killing of them is prohibited by law; they are in fact the scavengers of the city, and but for them and the dogs, the ma- laria would be even worse than it is. In other re- spects Vera Cruz is worthy of a better situation. The streets are wide and the houses very large and spacious, and constructed of sufficient strength to stand a siege. The roofs are flat and of considerable thickness to be proof against the heavy rains and 110 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. the intense heat of the sun. Some of the mer- chants preserve shells and cannon-balls which had lodged in their houses during the French attack on the Castle of San Juan de Ulua in 1838. The following account of this attack is derived from the letters of an eye witness. The French Minister not receiving any satisfactory reply to his demands for compensation to French citizens for losses and in- juries done to them, retired on board a frigate in the harbour, and from thence, on the 21st March, 1838, issued his ultimatum, demanding an answer by the 15th of April. On the 16th of April no answer having been received, the French squadron, consisting of 1 frigate and 5 brigs began the blockade of the harbour of Vera Cruz. The Mexicans to counteract this proceeding opened five ports along the coast; and the French, although their squadron was en- creased by several other vessels of war, made no impression on the determination of the Mexicans, Sickness prevailed in October, so much among the French, that two of their vessels were dispatched with the sick to Havana. On the 7th of November Admiral Baudin arrived with a strong force. One of the vessels, the Creole, was commanded by the Prince de Joinville. Still the Mexicans refused the condi- tions, and although Admiral Baudin went to Jalapa to hold a conference with the Mexicans, he returned to Vera Cruz without effecting any arrangement. The Mexican Government having thus refused to accede to the terms proposed by the French admiral, on the 27th November, the fleet under his command began hostilities against the Castle of San Juan de Ulua. After four hours destructive and incessant firing, the Castle, under the command of General Rincon, VERA CRUZ. 111 was reduced to the necessity of surrendering; nearly all the guns which could be brought to bear on the ships having been dismounted, the defences destroyed, two powder magazines blown up by the bursting of shells, and all the ammunition expended. The loss of the Mexicans, who, under the greatest disadvan- tages both in position and artillery, defended the place to the last, was about 200 killed and as many wounded, while that of the French was said to be very trifling. The French suffered much more from sickness which prevailed amongst them during their stay on the coast. Their losses by this means were very severe. The town of Vera Cruz suffered considerably from stray balls and shells but no lives were lost. The terms made by General Rincon with the French were to the following effect:-viz., the rem- nant of the Mexican garrison to retire with their arms and colours; Vera Cruz to remain with a garrison of not more than 1,000 men in the hands of the Mex- icans; an armistice of eight months for an amicable arrangement of the differences with France; and the re-opening, by a suspension of the blockade, of these ports to all nations. Subsequently the Government refused to ratify the Convention made with the French,—deprived General Rincon of his command, and nominated in his stead General Santa Anna, who ordered the gates to be shut against the French and all communication with them to be suspended. The French admiral hereupon requested three days for his countrymen to remove their property, which was granted, and the same afternoon the admiral sent a flag ashore with a letter, the answer to which 112 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. he said he would send for the next day (5th Dec.) at eight o'clock. Before dawn, however, the French had already landed 2,000 men, who took possession of the forts, spiking the guns, breaking the car- riages and carrying off the ammunition. They also made several prisoners, amongst them General Arista. Santa Anna, who narrowly escaped, succeeded in getting together a body of men, with whom, shut up in a barrack, he bravely defended himself; and the French, unable to take the place by assault, retired, fearing the arrival of troops from the interior. In leading a charge against the covering party of the French, Santa Anna was wounded in the leg and hand, the former so severely that amputation was found necessary. The French retired to their vessels, from which they opened a heavy fire upon the bar- rack. In consequence of these events, the Mexicans abandoned the city and all the inhabitants were ordered to evacuate it without delay. A law was also passed in the capital by which all Frenchmen were to quit the country in sixty days. On the 22nd December, H.B.M. frigate Pique with Mr. Packenham, who was deputed by the British Government to mediate between the belligerents, ar- rived, attended by twelve British ships of war which anchored off Sacrificios. Hostilities were from that time discontinued, and at length, through Mr. Pack- enham's exertions, peace was declared on 8th March, 1839, and on the 6th April, the French delivered up to the Mexicans the Castle of St. Juan de Ulua, who again hoisted the national flag. The money current is dollars and doubloons. Banking has not been introduced into Vera Cruz or the other cities of Mexico. VERA CRUZ. 113 On entering the gates from the Mole, the French hotel of Auguste is immediately in front. The hotel most resorted to by the English and Americans is the “Casa de Diligencias," situated in the principal square, which has lately been enlarged and improved; it is by far the best hotel in the place. The charge made by these houses is 2 dollars per diem, exclusive of wines, &c. The water used is the rain preserved in tanks. The market at sun-rise presents a curious and animated appearance. It is attended by Indians whose diversity of costume and variety of character form an interesting spectacle. The vegetables are few and inferior. The meat being cut into ribbons, and dried in the sun without salt, is disgusting; but the show of fish, will make amends, for it is generally of infinite variety and beauty, presenting the most resplendent hues and varieties, that vie in lustre, when fresh from the water, with the most precious stones, or the brilliant plumage of birds. Of the hundreds of species Mr. Bullock only noticed one sort, the mullet, that belonged to Europe; all the rest were new to him. The Indians also bring to market a considerable variety of water fowl, tortoises, armadillos, and a few deer. The city possesses a small theatre, where may be seen a singular variety in the dress and complexions of the audience. Smoking in the theatre (as at Havana) is no longer permitted at Vera Cruz. Co- medians, on their way to Mexico, at times, give a series of representations; but the building is closed the greater part of the year. There are the exchange rooms, where domestic and foreign papers are received, and the exchange billiard rooms. I 114 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The number of military at Vera Cruz is contingent on the political state of the country; the number varies from 2,000 to 4,000 men. The usual mode of travelling to the interior is by coach, or diligence, which leaves for Mexico three times a week, and is four days on its transit. The distance to Mexico is 250 miles, and the fare by coach is 50 dollars. Females, or infirm persons, can always procure litters to Jalapa, about 20 leagues distant on the road to Mexico, at a cost of 40 dollars. The diligences are generally of American con- struction, and most of the drivers are Americans. These vehicles hold nine persons each, inside; three of whom sit across the middle, their backs being supported by a leather strap stretched across from window to window. The road to Mexico was a monument of human skill and industry, but it was broken up in several places during the revolution to prevent the royalists bringing forward their artillery, and it has never been properly repaired since. Along this road from Vera Cruz to Mexico the extremes of the most barren sands and sterile wastes, are con- trasted with the richest luxuriance and most magni- ficent foliage and scenery. The flowers and trees of the temperate zones vie in luxuriance with the gorgeous plants and fruits of the torrid zone, and mountain and ravine, and river and forest, are all magnificent. On the ascent from Vera Cruz, climates, to use the expression of Humboldt, succeed each other in layers; and the traveller passes in review, in the course of two days, the whole scale of vege- tation, from the parasitic plants of the tropics to the VERA CRUZ. 117 was supposed to contain five hundred reals, or spots in which mines were worked, with from three to five thousand mines large or small, included in 37 mining districts, into which the viceroyalty was divided by the Government of the mother cou ry. But these were confined to a comparatively narrow circle; for the immense mass of silver which the country bas yielded since the conquest, and which was calculated by Humboldt in the year 1803 at 1,767,952,000 dollars, has proceeded from a few central spots of the table land, in which the capital and activity of the first speculators form ample employment. Yet three centuries of constant productiveness have been insufficient to exhaust the principal mines originally worked; whilst by far the larger proportion of the great veins still remain unexplored. During the excited speculations of 1825 numerous companies were formed in England, for the working of Mexican mines by British capital, and their shares were sold for some time at advancing premiums. The hopes held out by the projectors have not yet been realized; but there is every reason to believe that in time, the capitals invested in these under- takings will become productive. There are vast fields yet unexplored, and it is supposed that there are districts more valuable in ores than any yet worked. The ores appear to encrease in richness the farther north the operations are prosecuted. The mines of Mexico are found in regions of mo- derate elevation and temperature. Those that are most valuable are at the height of 6,000 to 10,000 feet above the level of the ocean, and consequently are exempt from that severity of cold which is found so injurious in Peru. It is from the healthiness of 118 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. the climate in which the mines are situated, and from the fertility of the land about them, that Mexico has been enabled to extract so large a quantity of mineral wealth, rather than to the richness of the ore, or the accessibility of the veins. The mines are worked by freemen, compulsory labour being un- known in Mexico. The miners are particular tribes of Indians, who have been miners from generation to generation, and who lead a roving life, migrating with their wives and children from one district to another, as they are attracted by the fame of superior riches. They are paid by partido, or a share in the ore raised, which is preferred to regular wages how- ever high. The natives, far from looking upon mining with repugnance, have a very great love for it, and in some places, look down with contempt upon those engaged in agriculture. On the 13th of June, 1843, the following consti- tution was proclaimed, as the result of the deliberation of the Junta of Notables convened for that purpose by Santa Anna, the provisional president. It is entitled the BASES OF POLITICAL ORGANIZATION OF THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. I. By this instrument it is declared that Mexico adopts the form of a popular representative govern- ment; that the territory shall be divided into depart- ments; that the political power essentially resides in the nation; and that the Holy Roman Catholic and Apostolic Creed is professed and protected to the exclusion of all others. II. Slavery is not permitted; no one is to be mo- lested for his opinions, or called on for contributions, except such as are regularly imposed by law. VERA CRUZ. 119 III. Specifies who are Mexican citizens, their rights, and obligations. Citizens are all who are born within the Mexican territory, or beyond it of a Mexican father; all who were in Mexico in 1821, and had not renounced their allegiance; all who are natives of central America when it belonged to Mex- ico; and lastly, all who have obtained or shall obtain letters of naturalization. In order to obtain the right of voting, Mexicans must be 18 years of age and married, or 21 years if not married; they must have an annual income of at least 200 dollars, derived from capital, trade, or honest personal labour. In addition to these no one will be allowed to vote after the year 1850, unless he can read and write. The rights of citizenship are suspended by domestic servitude, habitual intemperance, taking religious vows, fraudulent bankruptcy, or keeping prohibited gaming houses. IV. Defines the legislature; which is to consist of a Congress divided into a Chamber of Deputies, and a Senate. The CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES is to be com- posed of individuals that shall be elected by the Elec- toral Colleges of the Departments, in the ratio of one to 70,000 inhabitants. Departments, however, that have not so many residents, shall be entitled to a Deputy, and there shall likewise be one for every fraction over 35,000 inhabitants. It is required that the Deputy shall be at least 30 years of age, and be possessed of an annual income of 1,200 dollars. A moiety of the Chamber is to be renewed every two years. The SENATE is to be composed of 63 members, two-thirds of whom are to be elected by the Depart- mental Assemblies, and the other third by the Cham- VERA CRUZ. 121 Government all regulations or changes that may be necessary in every branch of the administration. VI. The JUDICIAL Power is deposited in a Su- preme Court, in Departmental Tribunals, and others already established. There is a perpetual Court Martial, chosen by the President. VII. The GOVERNMENT OF THE DEPARTMENTS. Each Department is to have an Assembly composed of not more than eleven, nor less than seven, each member of whom must be 25 years of age, and possessed of the qualifications required for a Deputy of Congress. Their term of office is four years. The powers of these Assemblies are very simple, and scarcely amount to more than a species of mu- nicipal police; they are subject to the control of the President, or of a Governor appointed by the President. VIII. The ELECTORAL Power is divided into sections of 500 inhabitants, for the election of pri- mary Juntas, and the citizens will vote by ticket, for one elector for every 500 inhabitants. These primary electors will name the secondary, who are to form the ELECTORAL COLLEGE of the Department in the ratio of one secondary elector for every twenty of the primary. This Electoral College again will elect the Deputies to Congress, and the members of the Departmental Assembly; and its members must have an income qualification of at least 500 dollars per annum. On the 1st of November of the year previous to the ex- piration of the Presidential term, each Departmental Assembly, will select a person as President for the succeeding five years. 122 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The following statistics of Mexico are from a work lately published by B. Meyer, Esq., Secretary to the United States Legation in 1841-42. Mexico is said to have a frontier of about 5,000 miles on the Pacific; 3,000 miles on the United States and Texas; and above 2,500 miles on the Gulf of Mexico. Mr. Burkhardt, an accurate German traveller, rates the number of inhabitants of Mexico, as, Indians.. 4,500,000 Whites 1,000,000 Negroes 6,000 Mestizos and other castes 2,490,000 7,996,000 The territory of the Mexican Republic is estimated to con- tain an area of 1,650,000 square miles ; the above population, therefore, gives about eight inhabitants to the square mile. It has also been estimated that of the negroes and indians but two per cent. can read or write; while of the whites twenty per cent. The exports of precious metals are estimated at 18,500,000 dollars annual; the other exports, such as cochineal, jalap, vanilla, sarsaparilla, and hides, &c., are only judged at the value of 1,500,000 dollars. The present debt of Mexico is calculated to be 82,000,000 dollars. The estimated population of Vera Cruz, in_1839, was 254,380 ; Value of Exports, 4,000,000 dollars. Tampico, in 1839, Population 100,068; Value of Exports, 7,000,000 dollars. ( 123 ) TAMPICO. THE steamer having landed at Vera Cruz the mails and passengers for that place and Mexico, proceeds to Tampico, where she exchanges mails and pas- sengers, and remains as long as may be necessary thoroughly to effect shipments; she then returns to Vera Cruz in time to receive the mails and passengers from Mexico. The steamer does not attempt to cross the bar of Tampico, which is a shifting sand-bank, but the pilot soon appears in his launch, with twelve or fourteen oars'-men of all complexions, from real jet to pale straw, and passengers are conveyed by him on shore. The distance is about 7 or 8 miles from the new town, or Puebla Nuevo de las Tamaulipas. There is nothing very remarkable in the River Panuco; it is a fine broad stream, but always brackish during the dry season, and well stocked with turtles and alligators; the country is low on either side, and swampy in many places, and in the rainy season the borders of the river are entirely inundated and of course impassable. Perpetual verdure adorns the banks, and extends as far as the eye can reach,--but the enjoyment of it is allayed by mud, sands, insects, and heat. The town has nothing prepossessing in its ap- pearance; it is nearly surrounded by lagoons; the houses are constructed chiefly of canes and mud, roofed with the palm-leaf, and the streets not being 124 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. paved are disagreeably muddy in the rainy season. The northerly gales also, with clouds of dust, come with such impetuosity, that you would imagine the wind would "blow the earth into the sea. There are several respectable mercantile establishments here, and their proprietors have tolerably comfortable dwellings built of stone. Passengers must have provided themselves with passports, which are examined, as is also the lug- gage. Every manufactured article is subject to duty, except passengers' personal apparel. Cigars are pro- hibited. The money current are Mexican and Spanish doubloons and dollars; there is no bank. There is one inn or fonda, kept by Mr. Constant, an American; where the merchants and their clerks congregate in the evening for an hour or two only, as it is the custom to retire before nine or ten, and to rise before five o'clock. Provisions are cheap; tolerable beef can be had at 2d. per lb. Rain-water is used. Horses and mules can be hired at from 1 to 2 dollars a day. The chief amusements are fowling and fishing in boats through the lagoons. There is an assembly room where balls and masquerades are given, and a theatre, begun some years ago, but yet unfinished. From 1,000 to 2,000 troops are generally quartered in the city. Tampico is about 300 miles from Mexico. As the roads are very bad in this country, travelling is almost entirely on horses or mules. S. L. Jolly, Esq., is the agent to the Royal Mail Steamers. The heat is very great at Tampico; but since a cut has been made through the land, joining one of TAMPICO. 125 the lagoons to the river, by which the tide ebbs and flows inside, the health of the place has been much improved. Passengers for Vera Cruz, Havana, and England are conveyed by the steamers to Vera Cruz, where receiving those mails and passengers that were pre- pared for her arrival, she starts for Havana, and, proceeds from thence, after coaling up, to Nassau, Bermuda, and England. At Havana she will meet the steamer that has brought the mails from England, a month later than those she brought to Mexico, and receives from her any passengers that may be bound to Nassau or Bermuda: also the Company's schooner for Honduras. 1 ( 126 ) HT EXPULSIS PIRATIS RESTITUTA COMMERCII. THE BAHAMAS,-NASSAU. The Bahamas form a chain of islands of great extent, stretching from off the northern coast of St. Domingo, to that of East Florida, and situated be- tween 21° and 28° of north latitude, and 71° and 81° west longitude. They are estimated to be 500 in number, but not more than 12 or 14 are inhabited. The settled islands are stated to be New Providence, Turk's Island, Eleuthera, Exama and its Keys, Har- bour Island and its Keys, Crooked Island, Long Island, St. Salvador, The Caicos, Watling's Island, Rum Key, and Henegua. Some of the largest are still uninhabited. St. Salvador was the first land seen by Columbus on his memorable voyage, and so named because it was discovered within the three days, at the expiration of which time, he had pro- mised his mutinous crew to return to Spain. At the * THE BAHAMAS. 127 period of his discovery the Bahamas were inhabited by a mild and peaceable race of indians, who, seduced by the arts of the Spaniards, were afterwards con- signed to perpetual bondage in the mines of St. Do- mingo, or sent to act as divers in the pearl fisheries of Cumana. In 1629 the English settled in New Providence, and held it till 1641, when the Spaniards expelled them, but did not make a settlement there themselves. It was again colonized by England in 1666, but ravaged again by the French and Spaniards in 1703. Afterwards it became a rendezvous for pirates, till in 1718 they were extirpated by the English, a regular colonial establishment formed, and the seat of Government fixed in the island. In 1781 the Bahamas were surrendered to the Spaniards; but at the conclusion of the war they were once more annexed to the British Empire, to which they have ever since belonged. These islands are low, flat, and interspersed with porous rocks; they rise almost perpendicularly from an immense depth of water, and seem to have been formed from an accumulation of shells and sand. The soil is generally light and sandy, but ornamented with an abundance of trees of a great variety of species, several of which are admirably adapted for ship- building. There are many spots of good soil, used for the cultivation of cotton and the rearing of cattle. The climate is healthy. There are no rivers or streams, but water is easily obtained by digging wells. The inhabitants of these islands are chiefly engaged in fishing-of turtle or other fish there is great abun- dance-and in what is technically called "wrecking;” that is, in looking out to save articles from such ships as have been unfortunate enough to be wrecked on 128 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. the many rocks and sands that are profusely scattered over the great and little Bahama banks. The small craft employed on this service are licensed by the governor for the purpose, and a salvage is allowed upon all the property 'recovered. By these boats many lives have been saved. Questions of salvage are generally referred to the Chamber of Commerce at Nassau, and by them a very fair and equitable salvage is awarded, even though no agreement had been previously made with the "wreckers." The chief products of these islands are cotton, pimento and salt. A variety of vegetables, as well European as tropical, are also cultivated. The Ba- hamas are, however, of more importance to Britain by commanding the Gulf of Florida, than for their trade and commerce. Nassau, to which the steamer goes, is situated on the north side of the island of New Providence, of which it is the capital; it is also the seat of the Government. New Providence is about 25 miles long by 9 broad, and is situated between longitude 77° 10' and 77° 38' W., and latitude 25° 3' and 25° 20' N.; it is considerably in advance in cultiva- tion of any of the other islands. The houses in Nassau are built of a stone found in the island, and are remarkably good; the public buildings in particular, such as the Government- house, Custom-house, Courts of Justice, are very handsome. New barracks have also been erected, and there are several churches, public schools, and charitable institutions in the town, which are well supported. The steamer that has been to the Mexican ports, will meet at Havana the steamer that has brought NASSAU. 129 the outward English mails, and receiving from her the mails and passengers for Nassau, she proceeds at once to that place. Passengers are landed generally by the steamers' boats; if by a shore-boat, the usual charge is 1 dollar, exclusive of heavy luggage. The distance of the steamer from shore is about 3 miles. Luggage is not required to be sent for examination to the Custom House, nor has there been an instance where any articles conveyed in luggage were charged duty. Passports are not required on landing, but must be obtained when going to a foreign port, espe- cially Havana, the charge for which is 88. 4d. sterling. There is no necessity for personal attendance. British gold and silver (not bank-potes), Spanish and Mexican dollars and doubloons, are the current monies. The dollars pass for 48. 2d. British; Spanish doubloons at 16 dollars, and Mexican doubloons at 151 dollars each. There is only one bank, and that merely local, in New Providence. There are four good boarding houses in Nassau ; the charge per day is nearly the same in all, about 2 dollars, or 88. 4d. Wines and spirits extra. Saddle- horses only, to be had on hire at about 1 dollar, or 1} dollar per day. There are no carriages. Except the Royal Mail steamers, the Bahamas have no re- gular trading packets. Communication with the United States and the West India Islands is how- ever frequent, though irregular, by means of sailing vessels. There are four Episcopalian, one Presbyterian, three Methodist, and two Baptist places of worship in New Providence; there are also several infant and other public and private schools. The instruction is English. They have a reading and news-room, a K 130 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. library, and a small theatre, where amateur per- formances are sometimes given. We have been favoured with some very carefully kept meteorological tables of the climate of Nassau, from January 1838 to March 1842, which show an average range of temperature of 80° to 90° summer, and 60° to 65° winter. December to April are generally dry and cool months. About the end of May the hot and rainy season commences, and continues with intermissions till November. Medical attendants are many, and in good repute; among the first practitioners are Drs. Chipman, Black, Clutsam, and Duncome. The Governor of the Bahama Islands is George Benvenuto Mathew, Esq. The Council, which is appointed by the Crown, consists of twelve members. The House of Assembly is composed of members returned by the different islands. Their number is between twenty and thirty. The possession of two hundred acres of cultivated land, or of property to the value of £2,000 currency, is the qualification required in a candidate. The electors are all free white persons, who have resided twelve months within the Government, for six of which they must have been householders or freeholders, or in default of that, must have paid duties to the amount of £50. The Lord Bishop of Jamaica exercises éccle- siastical authority within the Bahama Islands. There is another communication with Nassau by the steamer that has come up by St. Thomas and Bermuda, and that proceeds via Nassau to Havana, but the mails are not sent by this route, and pas- 1 NASSAU. 131 sengers would be several days longer on the voyage from England than by the route previously sketched in this article. AREA,--all the Islands and Keys, 4,204 miles. POPULATION. Males. Females. 1840 12,023 12,175 1841 12,230 12,315 1842 12,676 12,621 NEW PROVIDENCE—1840 1841 1842 Births. 391 391 141 Marriages. 65 65 107 Deaths. 158 158 75 19 Schools and SCHOLARS. Boys. Girls. Infants. NEW PROVIDENCE—1840 110 160 401 1841 71 120 380 1842 71 120 380 Salaries of Teachers, paid by Colonial Government, 1842, £292 148. 2d. MILITIA. Total, 1840 500 Men 7 Staff 1841 500 7 1842 554 7 At present there is no Militia on any of the Bahama Is. lands except New Providence. SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 693 65,930 3,976 1840.. 675 61,249 3,950 1841.. 316 18,763 1,924 1841.. 314 19,556 1,999 1842.. 427 36,514 2,638 1842.. 318 22,563 2,053 These returns include the coasting trade. K 2 132 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 8. d. Domestic { Males, per month . 1840. 8. 0 0 1842. S. d. 0 0 0 0 S. s. S. Estimated amount of Coin and Paper in circulation, 1842: d. Silver 20,000 0 Paper 989 11 8 Gold 50 0 0 Copper 30 0 0 1842:-1} per cent. premium paid for Bills on Great Britain, at 30 days sight. WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1841. d. 8. 0..2 0 0..2 1 0..1 0 0..1 Predial.. S Males, per day .. 0 1 710 1710 171 Females 0 1 1..0 1 1..0 1 1 Trades 0 4 2..0 4 2. 4 2 Seamen, per month 2 10 0..2 10 0..2 10 0 PRICES OF PROVISIONS, &c. 1840. 1841. 1842. d. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb.. 0 0 3 0 0 3 0 0 3 0 0 94.. 0 0 94.0 0 9 Mutton 0 0 94.. 0 0 94.. 0 0 9 Pork 0 0 94.. 0 0 9.. 0 0 9 Rice.. per cwt. 1 2 0 1 2 0 1 2 0 Coffee 2 0 0 2 0 0 2 0 0 Tea · per lb.. 0 6 0 0 6 0 0 6 0 Sugar, Cuba, per cwt. 1 12 0 1 12 0 1 12 0 Jamaica, 2 10 0 2 10 0 2 10 0 Turtle, alive per 0 03}.. Amount of IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840, Imports.... £123,773 Exports.... £84,099. The amount of Compensation for the Slaves in the Bahamas was £128,340 78. 6d. Two NEWSPAPERS are published at Nassau :- The Observer, Wednesday and Saturday, by S. J. Clutsam. Established 1837. The Royal Gazette, on the same days, by N. M‘Leod. Esta- blished 1838. Beef.. ib. ( 133 ) AN BERMUDA. The Bermudas are a cluster of small islands, situated between 31° and 32° of N. latitude, and 64º and 65° W, longitude, in the Atlantic ocean. They are about four hundred in number, but twelve only are inha- bited; these are St. George, Hamilton, St. David, Cooper, Ireland, Somerset, Nonsuch, and Long and Bird Islands. The entire population, by the census of 1840, was 8624. The appearance of these little creeks and islands is said to be highly romantic. None of the islands rise to any great height, but they are richly clothed with everlasting verdure. They all shoot precipitously out of the water, as if the whole group had been one platform of rock, with numberless grooves subsequently chisled out in it by art. These islands extend from north-east to south-west in a curved line, bending inward at both extremities 134 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. so as on each side to enclose sounds or gulfs. The whole length of the group, following its sinuosities, is about twenty-five miles, while its breadth nowhere exceeds three, and in most places not one. The surface, according to the latest return, contains 12,424 acres. With the exception of St. Helena, there is not perhaps a spot on the globe so remote from any other land; the nearest points being Cape Hatteras in North Carolina, distant 580, and At- wood's Keys, Bahamas, 645 miles. The Bermudas were discovered by Juan Bermudas, a Spaniard, who was wrecked there when on a trading voyage to Cuba, in 1522. Sir George Somers was also wrecked, in 1609, on these islands; but, con- structing a ship of the cedar that grew abundantly in the islands, and with only one iron bolt in the keel, he made his way to Virginia. It is to his indefatigable labours in establishing a settlement upon them, that Great Britain is now indebted for their possession. They are still sometimes called Somers' islands. On the discovery becoming known, an extraordinary in- terest was excited in England in favour of emigration, and the usual exaggerations were published. Jourdan, who wrote in 1609, proclaims that, “ this prodigious and enchanted place, which had been shunned as a Scylla and Charybdis, and where no one had ever landed but against his will , was really the richest, healthfulest, and most pleasing land ever man set foot on.” Strachy, another writer of the same date, was less enthusiastic, but he considered the colony, on the whole, as very desirable. Some large pieces of ambergris had been found, and the remarkable size of the spiders was imagined, we know not why, to indicate gold. Upon these encouragements several 3 BERMUDA. 135 attempts were made to colonize; which, however, in consequence of the feuds that arose between the go- verned and governors, had not the expected success. Nevertheless, the islands continued to enjoy a high reputation, and, during the period of civil commotion, shared with Virginia the resort of distinguished emi- grants. They obtained additional lustre when Waller, the most popular poet of his age, chose them for the theme of his “ Battel of the Summer Islands." He celebrates them in the most flattering strains saying, “ The kind spring which but salutes us here, Inhabits there, and courts them all the year; Ripe fruits and blossoms on the same trees live, At once they promise what at once they give. So sweet the air, su moderate the clime, None sickly lives, or dies before his time. Heaven sore has kept this spot of earth uncursed, To show how all things were created first." Mr. Moore, in our own times, has also sung in high praise of their beauty: “The morn was lovely, every wave was still, When the first perfume of a cedar-hill Sweetly awak'd us, and with smiling charms, The fairy harbour woo'd us to its arms. Gently we stole, before the langaid wind, Through plantain shades, that like an awning twin'd And kiss'd on either side the wanton sails, Breathing our welcome to these vernal vales; While far reflected o'er the waves serene, Each wooded island shed so soft a green, That the enamour'd keel, with whispering play, Through liquid herbage seem'd to steal its way!” And among the many charms which Bermuda has for a poetic eye, we cannot for an instant forget that 136 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. it is the scene of Shakspere's most lovely creation, the “Tempest," and the “ delicate Ariel." The natural caverns, situated at Walsingham, about 3 miles from the town of St. George's, are curious, being large and abounding with specimens of petri- faction. But the “ lion" of the islands seems to be considered a large pond or lake, containing several hundreds of fish called groopers. These fish are caught with hook and line some distance from the shore, in boats, and with the hook in their gills they are towed to land and plunged directly into the pond, where they are regularly fed until wanted. The limited extent and resources of Bermuda made it impossible to sustain a competition with the con- tinental colonies when they had expanded into their vast dimensions; but the great strength of its po- sition, standing solitary amid so vast an extent of ocean, and on the return-route from the West Indies, marked it as a principal naval station. Under this view, indeed, it was little considered while the whole coast of North America belonged to England; but after the United States became hostile and then foreign, its possession proved extremely convenient, while its occupation by another power would have been much the contrary. Washington, towards the end of the American war, had formed a plan to seize it, with the view of annoying the West India trade. The English government therefore carefully fortified the several islands, where they kept a naval and military force constantly stationed. During the late contest it became the principal winter station of the navy in these seas, possessing for this purpose many advantages over the ports of the northern colonies. The benefit then experienced, led to a determination BERMUDA. 137 to form on Ireland Island a breakwater and other works, which might convert it into a haven of the first importance. This was begun in 1824, and completed in 1837, being carried on by the labour of about a thousand deported convicts. The dock- yard is in a small island, called Ireland, at the north-west extremity of the group. It has been covered with works, and its surface almost entirely changed, with the view of fitting it for a naval and military depôt of the first importance. The fortifi- cations at St. George's are on a magnificent scale; and Bermuda already merits the designation of the « Gibraltar of the West." Hamilton, the metropolis, and St. George's, are the only two towns. The seat of Government was for- merly at St. George's; but in 1814, during the administration of Sir James Cockburn, it was removed to Hamilton, about 9 miles from St. George's. The parts of this archipelago are so closely contiguous, that they may be considered practically as one; and the division is made, not into islands, but into parishes. The steamers go close to the wharf, at the dock- yard at Ireland Island, to coal; and passengers can be conveyed to Hamilton, the capital, by ferry boats, several times in the day, at a charge of one shilling each passenger; the distance being about three miles. Luggage is not examined; cigars are the only thing that passengers are cautioned against landing, without first payment of duty; these are subject to a duty of 20 per cent. ad valorem, and a colonial duty of eight shillings per mille. The chief articles of export are arrow root, which is of superior quality, and straw plat for bonnets; on these there is no ex- ) 138 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. port duty. British and Spanish coin pass current; the latter at 48. 2d. the dollar, or 658. the doubloon. There is no bank in the colony; the commissary regulates the exchange, having the control of money bills to a large extent. Owing to the few travellers visiting these islands before the West India steamers began to call, hotels were conducted on a very moderate scale; but lately there has been an evident improvement, and efforts are now making to encrease their comforts. There are two hotels at Hamilton, situated a short distance from the landing-place, and one at St. George's The charge in these is about 78. to 88. per day, exclusive of wines. Rain-water is generally used here, being saved in tanks under the houses; springs are nu- merous throughout the islands, but the water is brackish. The roads of the colony are excellent; and four- wheeled carriages, gigs, and saddle-horses can be obtained at moderate prices. But excursions are more frequently made by boats, the scenery from island to island being remarkably beautiful. The Bermudian boats are peculiar in their appearance, but remarkably safe and powerful, and suited to the rough seas they sometimes encounter. Transient passengers are not required to produce passports; but residents, on leaving, are obliged to have a pass from the secretary's office. MAILS FROM ENGLAND via HALIFAX. December, January, February, and March.-One mail each month. Leaves Liverpool on the 4th-due at Halifax on the 16th-due at Bermuda on the 26th. BERMUDA. 139 April, May, June, July, August, September, October, and November.-Two mails each month. The first leaves Liverpool on the 4th-due at Halifax on the 16th—due at Bermuda on the 26th. The second leaves Liverpool on the 19th—due at Halifax on the 1st of the following month-due at Bermuda on the 10th. This communication is by regular mail-boat; passage fare £10. The mail-boats remain at Ber- muda four days for the return mail. The steamers are expected to leave Halifax for Liverpool on the 3rd and 18th of each summer month, and on the 3rd of the month only during the winter. With New York there is very frequent communication; about £6 being the charge for the best-cabin accom- modation. There are nine parish churches, one Presbyterian, and four Wesleyan chapels throughout the islands. Schools are numerous, both for infants and adults; and schoolmasters from England are in general re- quest, and handsome emoluments are held out to them. There are also libraries and news rooms supported by subscribers. The laws of Bermuda are enacted by the Governor and Council, and the House of Assembly, subject to the approval and confirmation of the Government at home. A detachment of engineers and one regiment of the line are generally stationed at Ireland Island. On an average of three years (1837 to 1839), the mean temperature out of doors, by a register ther- mometer, was 68° 32' ; the highest in summer being 87°, and lowest in winter 48°. The winter com- mences in December and ends in March, with occa- sional rains only. The dews are not considered pernicious. 140 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. resources. It is much to be regretted that the inhabitants of Bermuda do not make better use of their internal This neglect-for it is said that there was only one plough in the whole colony in 1827– may be ascribed to the facility with which supplies are received from America, and also to the great varieties of excellent fish with which the shores abound, withdrawing the attention of numbers of the lower orders from the cultivation of the soil. The soil is very fertile, and the esculent plants and roots of Europe, as well as the citron, sour orange, lemon, and lime grow spontaneously in great luxuriance, and peaches, and musk melons grow to perfection in the early summer season. The climate is adapted for the grape, but the inhabitants pay no attention to this fruit. Medical plants, such as castor, aloe, and jalap, grow to great perfection without culture. “Within the last year,” says the writer of the Ber- muda Almanac for 1842, an attempt was made to revive the culture of the medicinal aloe, which we are glad to state has given promise of success; 150 pounds weight were manufactured. It is understood that this article in its manufactured state, is worth, in London, £50 sterling for 100 pounds' weight." Almost all the occupiers of land sow a small quantity of barley; but the novel manner of reaping, gives rather an unfavourable idea of the state of agriculture in that quarter. An old woman, furnished with a basket and a pair of scissors cuts off the heads of the grain, leaving the stalk erect, which is after- wards converted into bonnets. Arrow-root, as before noticed, is the chief article of export, and this has encreased from the value of £888, in 1831, to £5,833, in 1841. 66 BERMUDA. 141 It is but justice, however, to say that laudable exertions are now being made to improve the re- sources of these interesting islands by encouraging emigration. We have received a document, dated 27 January, 1843, published at the Royal Gazette office, Bermuda, setting forth the capabilities of the soil, and the advantages possessed by these islands for the profitable employment of the labourer and artizan. One of the arrangements made by the Legislature for the protection of the emigrant is the following: “ As an encouragement to persons inclined to emi- grate to Bermuda, and to enable them to make the best arrangements on their first arrival, the Legis- lature have granted fourteen days' subsistence-money to persons (not exceeding 100 in one year) arriving in the island, with a voucher shewing them to have emigrated to Bermuda with the approbation of the Commissioners of Emigration." POPULATION, &c. Nine parishes. 12,424 acres. Whites.. Coloured Aliens and Strangers resident.... Population to square mile employed in Agriculture .. Manufacture.. Commerce. 1840. Males. Females. 1,598 2,460 . 1,953 2,613 87 431 1,103 506 608 19 1840 1841 1842 Births. 266 297 271 Marriages. 64 57 67 Deaths. 166 161 186 142 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 9 Schools and ScHOLARS. 15 Schools, 1840. Males,... 30.. Females.... 264 20 1841. 410. 322 19 1842. 371. 320 Expense in 1842, £601 6s. paid chiefly by Colonial grant. 21 Private Schools. 1842.... SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840.... 129 12,517 816 | 1840 .... 138 13,719 891 1841.... 128 12,672 819 1841 138 13,269 875 . 177 19,966 1,175 1842. 176 18,858 1,136 CROPS AND UNCULTIVATED LAND. 9 Parishes,-in Acres, 1840. Total cultivated, 5371. Ditto, Uncultivated..... 10,648. Onions. Arrow Root. Potatoes, Bar. & Oats. Gard. Veg. Pasture. 69} 187 156% 161 107} 1,2388 1841 and 1842 not given. lbs. 265,800 QUANTITIES OF PRODUCE IN 1840. lbs. bush. bush. lbs. 93,565 18,190 208 180,650 PRICES OF PRODUCE. per lb. per bush. per bush. per lb. per 100 lbs. 8s. 6d. ls. 4s. 7d. 3s. 6d. ljd. S. S. S. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1840. 1841. 1842. d. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb. 0 0 3. 0 0 3. 0 0 3 Beef 0 0 8. 0 0 9.. 0 0 8 Mutton 0 0 9. 0 0 9. 0 0 8 Pork 0 0 8....0 0 8.. 0 0 8 Rice 1 2 0....1 20.. 1 2 0 Coffee.. 0 0.. 3 0 0....3 0 0 Tea.. 0 6 0.. 0 6 0....0 6 0 Sugar.. per cwt. .. 1 18 0. 1 12 0.. 1 12 . per cwt. ..3 per lb. BERMUDA. 143 S. 8. 8. Domestic, per day Predial .. Trades .. WAGES FOR LABOUR. d. 0 2 0. 0 2 0 2 3. 0 2 0 5 0. 0 5 d. 0....0 2 6....0 2 0....0 d. 0 6 0 > Stock, 1840. Horses, 218. Horned Cattle, 1,799. Sheep, 70. Goats, 204. The value of the collective IMPORTS and EXPORTS of the Bermudas in 1840, was Imports........£130,800 £130,800 Exports.... • £32,231 The amount of Slave Compensation paid to the Proprietors, was £128,340 75. 6d. NEWSPAPERS. The Royal Gazette, published at Hamilton on Tuesdays, by D. M-Phee Lee. Established 1830. The Bermudian, published on Saturdays, by A. and J. Wash- ington. Established 1834. j ( 144 ) PAX ET JUSTITIA. 1 ST. VINCENT, So called by Columbus, who discovered it on the 23rd of January, 1498, the day dedicated to St. Vincent in the Romish calender. It lies in 13° 10' latitude: and 61° 30' longitude. It is 24 miles long and 18 broad, and contains about 84,000 acres comprised in five parishes. It does not appear that the Spaniards made any settlement on this island; they left it to the Caribbees who were very numerous and warlike. Charles I. however, included St. Vincent, together with Domi- nica and other islands, in a patent granted to the Earl of Carlisle; and again Charles II. in 1672, included this island with Barbadoes, St. Lucia and Dominica in the patent constituting Lord Wil- loughby Governor. . Even then there was no direct settlement on the island. And again in 1723 George I. granted it to the Duke of Montague who made a ST. VINCENT. 145 feeble attempt at possession, and failed; and by the treaty of Aix la Chapelle in 1748 it was declared neutral, and the native race left in possession. The French and English subsequently contested for the possession of the island, but ultimately by the treaty of Paris, signed the 10th of February 1763, this island, together with Dominica and Tobago, were assigned to Great Britain in full and perpetual sove- reignty, the aborigines not being once mentioned in the transaction. By letters-patent of 9th of April 1764, representative assemblies were granted to these ceded islands, and the contest consequent upon the attempt afterwards made to impose the 41 per cent. duties has been already noticed in the account of Grenada p: 33. In St. Vincent a separate Legislative Assembly was convened as early as 1767, the first act in the printed collection bearing date 11th of July in that year. On the 19th of June 1779, St. Vincent was captured by a French force, but was restored to the dominion of Great Britain by the pacification of 1783. In 1795 an insurrection of the Caribbees in con- junction with the French settlers, took place in this island, which being seconded by a French force, was not suppressed till after a severe struggle. But in 1796 the enemy was dislodged by the British, and tranquillity restored. The Caribbees, however, were not allowed by our Government to remain, but were removed to the island of Rattan, in the bay of Hon- duras. Kingstown, the capital of St. Vincent, is situated on the s.W. side of the islands, the approach to which is very beautiful, the town stretching along L 146 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. the sea and the mountains gradually rising behind in the form of an amphitheatre to a considerable height. The mountains of St. Vincent are bold, sharp, and abrupt in their terminations, with deep intervening romantic glens, and bound by a lofty and rocky coast. The connected chain of high mountains runs from N. to S. clothed with immense trees, breaking into smaller and less elevated masses towards the sea, and intersected by deep ravines in the interior, which gradually widen on the approach to the shore, and become vallies capable of cultivation, as they are generally supplied with running water: this is the character of the north-western side of the island. On the north-east the surface is more level and less broken, and there is a large tract of land at the base of the Souffriere mountain gradually declining towards the sea, which forms an extensive plain of upwards of 6,000 acres, and is the most productive land in the colony. The Souffriere, or Sulphur Hill, in the north, is the most remarkable object in the island. It is a volcanic mountain, about 3,000 feet high. This ce- lebrated volcano is the grandest scene in the West Indies. The lofty summit is only to be seen at in- tervals between the rolling clouds, and the sides are furrowed with streams of lava. Two irruptions are recorded,-one in 1718, by Humbolt, and another in 1812. Of the latter the following description is given in Shepherd's History of the island. “ To those who have not visited this remarkable spot a short description of it as it previously stood is necessary, the better to understand the account that follows:- ST. VINCENT. 147 At about 2,000 feet from the level of the sea, on the south side of the mountain, and rather more than two-thirds of its height, opens a circular chasm, somewhat exceeding half a mile in diameter, and between 400 or 500 feet in depth: exactly in the centre of this capacious bowl rose a conical hill , about 260 or 300 feet in height, and about 200 in diameter, richly covered with shrubs, brushwood, and vines about half-way up, and for the remainder powdered over with virgin sulphur to the top. From the fis- sures in the cone, and interstices of the rocks, a thin white smoke was constantly emitted, occasionally tinged with a slight bluish flame. The precipitous sides of this magnificent amphitheatre were fringed with various evergreens and aromatic shrubs, flowers, and many alpine plants. On the north and south sides of the base of the cone were two pieces of water, one perfectly pure and tasteless, the other strongly impregnated with sulphur and alum. This lonely and beautiful spot was rendered more enchant- ing by the singularly melodious notes of a bird, an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, and altogether unknown to the other parts of the island. Nearly a century had now elapsed since the last convulsion of the mountain, or since any other ele- ments had disturbed the serenity of this wilderness, than those which are common to the tropical tempest. But just as the plantation-bells rang twelve at noon, on Monday the 27th, an abrupt and dreadful crash from the mountain, with a severe concussion of the earth, and tremulous noise in the air, alarmed all around it. The resurrection of this fiery furnace was proclaimed in a moment, by a vast column of thick black ropy smoke, like that issuing from the furnace L 2 148 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. of an immense glass-house. The same awful scene presented itself on Tuesday and Wednesday, still gathering more thick and terrific for miles around the dismal and half-obscured mountain. On Thursday the memorable 30th of April, the reflection of the rising sun on this majestic body of curling vapour was sublime beyond imagination: any comparison of the glaciers of the Andes, or Cor- dilleras with it, can but feebly convey an idea of the fleecy whiteness and brilliancy of this column of intermingled and wreathed smoke and clouds: it afterwards assumed a more sulphureous cast, like what we call thunder-clouds, and in the course of the day, a ferruginous and sanguine appearance, with much livelier action in the ascent, a more extensive dilation, as if almost freed from every obstruction: in the afternoon the noise was incessant, and resem- bled the approach of thunder still nearer and nearer, with a vibration that affected the feelings and hear- ing: but as yet there was no convulsive motion, or sensible earthquake. Terror and consternation now seized all beholders. The negroes became confused, and forsook their work; the birds fell to the ground overpowered with showers of favilla, unable to keep themselves on the wing; the cattle were starving from want of food, as not a blade of grass or a leaf was now to be found; the sea was much discoloured, but in no wise uncommonly agitated; and, it is re- markable that, throughout the whole of this violent disturbance of the earth, it continued quite passive, and did not at any time sympathize with the agitation of the land. About four p.m. the noise became alarming, and just before sun-set the clouds reflected a bright copper-colour, suffused with fire. Scarcely ST. VINCENT. 149 3 had the day closed when the flames at length burst pyramidically from the crater, through the mass of smoke; the rolling of the thunder became more awful and deafening; electric flashes quickly succeeded, , attended with loud claps; and now, indeed, the hurly- burly began. Shortly after 7 p.m. the mighty cauldron was seen to simmer, and the ebullition of lava to break out on the N.W. side. This, immediately after boiling over the orifice and flowing a short way, was opposed by the acclivity of a higher point of land, over which it was impelled by the immense tide of liquefied fire that drove it on, forming the figure V in grand illu- mination. Sometimes when the ebullition slackened, or was insufficient to urge it over the obstructing hill, it recoiled back, like a refluent billow from the rock, and then again rushed forward, impelled by fresh supplies, and scaling every obstacle, carrying rocks and woods together, in its course down the slope of the mountain, until it precipitated itself down some vast ravine, concealed from our sight by the inter- vening ridges of Morne Ronde. Vast globular bodies of fire were seen projected from the fiery furnace, and bursting, fell back into it, or over it, on the surrounding bushes, which were instantly set in flames. About four hours from the lava's boiling over the centre, it reached the sea, as we could ob- serve from the reflection of the fire, and the electric flashes attending it. About half-past one, another stream of lava was seen descending to the eastward, toward Rabacca. The thundering noise of the moun- tain, and the vibration of sound that had been so formidable hitherto, now mingled in the sullen mo- notonous roar of the rolling lava, became so terrible, 150 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 that dismay was almost turned into despair. At this time the first earthquake was felt: this was followed by showers of cinders, that fell with the hissing noise of hail during two hours. This dreadful rain of stones and fire lasted upwards of an hour, and was again succeeded by cinders from three till six o'clock in the morning. Earthquake followed earth- quake almost momentarily, or rather the whole of this part of the island was in a state of continued oscillation; not agitated by shocks, vertical or hori- zontal, but undulated, like water shaken in a bowl. The break of day, if such it could be called, was truly terrific. Day-light only was visible at eight o'clock, and the birth of May dawned like the day of judgment; a chaotic gloom enveloped the mountain, and an impenetrable haze hung over the sea, with black sluggish clouds of a sulphureous cast. The whole island was covered with favilla or ash-coloured dust, cinders, scoriæ, and broken masses of volcanic matter. It was not until the afternoon, that the muttering noise of the mountain sank gradually into a solemn yet suspicious silence. Such were the particulars of this sublime and tremendous scene; from the commencement to catastrophe. To describe the effects would be a task truly distressing. It subsequently appeared, that the damage done to the estates was inconsiderable, when compared to the excess of the volcano; the course of Rabacca River was filled up with lava and ashes, and the land covered in some places from six to twelve inches deep with cinders. One white man and about forty or fifty negroes lost their lives. The whole appearance of the mountain had changed; and the ascent, where it had been most difficult, ren- 9 1 152 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. tivation; but this beautiful spot has felt the effects of modern economy and retrenchment; a great num- ber of the plants have been removed to Trinidad, the allowances from Government are discontinued, a small part of the ground has been surrendered to the colony, for the purpose of establishing a residence for the Governor, and the remainder is in a state of neglect and desolation. But there are still extant in St. Vincent some fine specimens of the valuable exotics of the east; and fortunately, several plants of the nutmeg trees had been previously distributed through the island, and promise in a few years to become abundant; in quality this spice is said to be quite equal to that brought from the east. It is very much to be regretted that so valuable an establishment as this should be suffered to decline. But we hope the inhabitants of St. Vin- cent will revive it, and take their part in the endea- vour after agricultural and horticultural improvement, now becoming general among the West India colonies. In August, 1831, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, and Barbadoes, were visited with a terrific hurricane, which tore up the trees, destroyed the church and other houses, and did most serious damage. There are two mineral springs, called the “Bel- leair,” and the “Marriaqua Spa," but of which no accurate analysis has yet been obtained; the first is about two miles, the latter ten or eleven miles from Kingstown, on the windward or eastern part of the island. These springs are different in their nature- the first partaking chiefly of saline-the other of chalybeate properties; but both are much esteemed for their refreshing and medicinal effects. The Bel- leair Spa is easy of access by a good road; that at ST. VINCENT. 153 Marriaqua is more difficult, being situated in the interior of the island, remote from the public highway or from any extensive settlement or plantation. Passengers are landed here generally by the steamers' boats. There is no detention or exami. nation of luggage. Dollars at 4s. 2d., and English money are current. There are two hotels close to the landing-place, respectably conducted; the charges are moderate, the accommodation good, and water excellent. Persons with letters of introduction visiting the island are received with kindness, and hospitably entertained by the residents. Passports are not required on landing; but when leaving for a foreign country they are taken. There are four Wesleyan chapels in the island; one Episcopal church, and the Presbyterians and Catholics have also places of worship. Schools for children are attached to the two first. These schools only teach the rudiments of learning. There is a lamentable deficiency of a higher class of schools. Three newspapers are published on alternate days in each week; but the inhabitants have not yet esta- blished either library or public news-room. About 400 of the military are stationed here. The Government consists of a Lieutenant-Governor, Council, and House of Assembly; these constitute a combined legislative body. In the frame of its Government and the administration of executive justice, St. Vincent seems to differ in no respect from Grenada. The Council consists of twelve members, the Assembly of seventeen. The average range of the thermometer in the 154 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. shade is 80° to 81°. The coolest months are from November to April, and the warmest from May to October. The latter half-year is the rainy season. The uniformity of temperature, and the absence of stagnant or marshy lands, render the island very healthy. Drs. Melville and Arundell in the town, and Chappin and Huggins in the country, are the medical men in most repute. James Colquhoun, Esq., St. James's Place, London, is the Agent for the colony in England. Births. Marriages. Deaths. 1842...... 761 450 ... 249 These are noted “as taken from lists furnished of Baptisms, Marriages, and Deaths, and of course form a very imperfect return." SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. 1841 .. 306 23,713 2,125 | 1841 1842 . 409 27,079 2,807 | 1842 Ships. Tons. Men. 360 24,373 2,407 382 24,382 2,407 MILITIA. 1 Total, 1841.. 770 1842. 676 The Adjutants receive, per Annum....£114 11 8 Armourer 41 13 4 Total...... £156 5 0 7 2 1841. The denomination of Currency has been abolished, and Sterling Money substituted in lieu. ST. VINCENT. 155 SCHOOLS AND SCHOLARS. 10 Schools, 1842. Males. . 454 Females. . 376 Total.. 830 Other Scholars, not sexed 324 1,154 Total Expense .. £831 13 4 Paid chiefly by the Colonial Government, and a small part by the Parents. The following note is by the Rector of Char- lotte Parish :-“ Unless some means be devised for continuing the Schools in Charlotte, they must cease very shortly. Vo- luntary contributions are out of the question.” Mico Charity, 2 Schools, 1840. Males ..51 Females ..44 Abandoned in 1841. I School, 1840. Males .. 39 Females ..16 1841. 32 . 26 1842. .. 28 .. 27 Cost, £40 per Year. 1840. Males.. 94 Females.. 80 1841. 347 421 Infant System 1842. 394 335 > MoriansystemSchool,} Note.—The Master of the Whim School (Wesleyan) receives no stipend, either from the Lord Bishop or the Colony. The School has been in operation about six months. 1840. S. S. S. AVERAGE PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1841. 1842. d. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per 14 ozs.O 0 4. 0 0 4. 0 0 6 Beef 0 09. 0 0 9. 0 09 Mutton. ..0 0.. 0 0. 1 0 Pork.. 0 0 8. ..0 0 8....0 0 8 Rice.. per cwt.. 1 12 0.. 1 12 0.. 1 12 0 Coffee 2 0....0 2 0....0 2 0 Tea ..0 7 0.. ....0 7 0....0 8 0 Sugar ..0 1 0....0 1 0....0 1 0 per lb... 0 156 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1840 S. 8. 26., WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1811. 1842. d. d. s. d. Domestic, per month 1 12 0..1 12 0..1 12 0 Predial, per day, house & ground 0 1 0..0 0 8..0 0 8 Trades, 0 2 0..0 1 6 0 2 6 Number of Mills employed in Manufacture of Sugar, Molasses, and Rum. Water. Wind. Cattle. Steam. 1840, 26.. 28. 3.. 20 1841. 24. 3.. 21 1842. 26........ . 20.. 6.. 21 Amount of Collective IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840, Imports........ £173,066 Exports.... £202,109 Amount of Slave Compensation paid to St. Vincent was £592,508 18s. Od. NEWSPAPERS, published at Kingstown. The Royal Gazette, on Saturday, by John Drape. Esta- blished 1784. Thursday's Gazette, Thursday, by Thomas Le Gall. Esta- blished 1825. 158 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. ) a The appearance of this island from the sea is very beautiful. It is composed of high and broken land, covered with forests, some of which are scarcely pe- netrable. Many of the mountains are so steep that no animal can ascend them, and others rise like pin- nacles to an astonishing height. Some have broader bases, covered with wood to their summits, which terminate in the craters of exhausted volcanoes. Of the latter description is the Sulphur Hill, on the south-west end of the island; the crater of which lies on an eminence between two mountains. On the first view of this volcano from about half- way up one of these mountains, it appears like vast lime-pit, and is occasionally covered with smoke, which forms a white cloud in the atmosphere. From the same eminence the working of the fire and boil- ing of the water could formerly be heard. The con- vulsions of the mountain have heretofore occasioned frequent earthquakes in the island; nevertheless there are several excellent plantations in its neighbourhood. A naval officer thus describes his visit to this re- markable scene: As this crater is different from any described, you must imagine to yourself a vast surface of chalk and native sulphur, of about a quarter of a mile in length and about half that breadth, lying be- tween two prodigious hills, half of whose sides are composed of the same materials, the woods, and precipices. In this plain are seven openings, three raging with flames, and four filled either with a black bituminous water, or a white water of alum, of such a consistency as to crack like boiling pitch; and of such a heat, that no person can put his hands within a foot of any part. All these craters are covered with clouds of sulphureous smoke, now shooting up 160 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. rable stench through the other side. The circum- stance of fire and water united exists indeed in all mountains of this nature, but are in none of our European ones so visibly perceived in their eruptions. Mr. Coleridge thus describes St. Lucia from the sea: “The first approach to this island from the south- ward offers a striking combination of various scenery. The two rocks, which the gods call Pitons, and men Sugar Loaves, on the south-west, rise perpendicu- larly out of the sea, and shoot up, in cones, to a great height. These rocks, which are feathered from the clouds to the waves with evergreen foliage, stand like the Pillars of Hercules, on either side of the en- trance into a small but deep and beautiful bay. A pretty little village, or plantation, appears at the bottom of the cove; the sandy beach stretches like a line of silver round the blue water, and the cane- fields form a broad belt of vivid green in the back ground. Behind this the mountains, which extend north and south throughout the island, rise in the most fantastic shapes. The clouds which, within the tropics, are infallibly attracted by any woody eminences, contribute greatly to the wildness of the scene: here, at times, they are so dense as to bury the mountains in darkness: at other times they float transparently, like a silken veil; frequently the flaws from the gulleys perforate the vapours and make apertures in the smoky mass; and then again the wind and the sun will raise the whole majestically upward, like the curtain of a gorgeous theatre." Castries, the capital, is on the western side of the island; it lies at the bottom of a deep irregularly- formed harbour. It is one of the best harbours in ST. LUCIA. 161 the windward islands, having deep water and good anchorage ground. The steamer's boat will land you. The town appears almost deserted; the buildings are detached, they are chiefly composed of wood that had been warped and disfigured by the climate, and there are but few signs of active industry in the streets. The Government-house in Castries stands on a high hill above the town, and the road to it is a zigzag of acute angles, intersected by brick trenches for carrying off the water; for it rains nine months out of the twelve at St. Lucia. From the summit of this hill on a clear night, the traveller has said, “I never saw heaven so close before. Not only Venus and Sirius, and the glorious Cross of our Faith in the south, and Charlemaine amongst the starris seaven,’ low in the north, shone like segments of the moon; but hosts of other luminaries, of lesser magnitude, flung each his particular shaft of splen- dour on the tranquil and shadowy sea. As I gazed, the air burst into atoms of green fire before my face, and in an instant they were gone. I turned round and saw all the woods upon the mountains illuminated with ten thousands of flaming torches (fire-flies and beetles] moving in every direction, now rising, now falling, vanishing here, re-appearing there, converg- ing to a globe, and dispersing in spangles. No man can conceive from dry description alone the magical beauty of these glorious creatures.” The laws in force here at the time preceding the last cession to France still prevail, except so far as they have been altered by orders in council, to which St. Lucia, as a colony acquired by conquest, is still subject. With this exception, therefore, it is go- M 162 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. verned by the ancient law of France, as it existed before the promulgation of the code Napoleon. The old laws proceed from two very different sources or au- thorities; some were enacted by the kings of France, or government at home, and others by the governor and intendant jointly—the local authorities. These laws will be found in the collection entitled The Code of Martinique,' printed in five vols. All the papers, registers, and archives, of St. Lucia, were burnt at the fire that destroyed Castries, in 1790. The supreme court of this island is now constituted according to the provisions of the order in council of the 20th of June, 1831. POPULATION. 3 . 1840 1841 1842 WHITES. COLOURED. Males. Females. Males. Females. 982.... 820.... 9,629.... 11,226.. 971.... 819.... 10,647....12,386.. 920.... 821....11,593.... 13,496.. 1840, Aliens and Strangers . 446. 1841, 308. 1842, 383, Total. 22,657 24,828 26,830 1840 1841 1842 Births. 553 619 757 Marriages. 83 78 146 Deaths. 171 197 248 Schools and Scholars. 1840. 7 Schools, Males.. 274 Females.. 50 Total. . 324. 1841. 398 76 474, 1842. 313 58 371. Expense in 1842, Mico Charity, £1,181 15s. 2 d. No Private Schools. ST. LUCIA. 163 SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840.... 245 11,726 1,555 | 1840....256 11,771 1,611 1841.. 246 12,071 1,599 1841.. . 249 12,225 1,693 1842.. . 253 13,848 1,641 | 1842.... 257 13,883 1,657 WAGES FOR LABOUR. S. Domestic, per month Predial ... Trades .. 1840. 1841. £ d. d. 1 10 0. 1 12 0.. 1 10 0. 1 10 0.. 2 10 0....2 10 0.. 1842. s. d. 1 4 0 1 12 0 .3 0 0 92 8. per lb. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. d. Wheaten Bread, 0 0 4 Beef 0 0 10 Pork 0 0 10 Mutton 0 0 10 Rice 0 0 3 to 7d. Coffee.. 0 0 9, ls, CURRENCY. Coin.—The amount cannot be ascertained. Paper.-Notes of Colonial Bank estimated at 840,000 in 1840; 850,000 in 1841 ; and 845,000 in 1842. LANDS UNDER CROP. Sugar. Coffee. Cocoa. Prov. Pasture. Cotton. Uncult. 1840. Acres. . 2,476 20 24 1,828 3,080 0 18,539 1841. . 2,837 486 103 2,094 2,291] 0 18,297 1842. .3,240 471 114 1,814 2,630 3 9,486 Stock. 1840. 1841. 1842. Horses. 910.. 885. 744.. Horned Cattle. . 2,673.. 2,500. . 2,165. Sheep. 1,626.. 1,832. 1,794. Goats. 561 661 712 1 M 2 164 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Amount of collective IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840, Imports. ....... £66,078 Exports.... £84,029. The amount of Slave Compensation paid to the Proprietors, was £335,627 16s. NEWSPAPER published in Castries :- The Independent Press, Thursday, by G. R. Plummer. Esta- blished 1839. The Palladium, Thursday, by C. H. Wells. Established 1838. (Suspended.) 1 ( 165 ) MARTINIQUE. As you come up from the southward, you pass close to that remarkable round-pointed rock, called the Diamond, 580 feet high. It is in the form of a cupola, and like that of St. Paul's, London, but twice the size. On the top of this rock Captain Morris hoisted a 32-pounder from the top-sail yard-arm of his ship during the last war, and mounted it on this perilous fortress to the great annoyance of the French traders. Martinique was discovered by the Spaniards in the year 1493. It afterwards came into the posses- sion of France, by which power it was held till about the middle of the 18th century, when it fell into the hands of the English. It was subsequently re- stored to France at the peace of 1814. Martinique is still a colony of France; it is the largest island in the West Indies belonging to that country. It is nearly 50 miles in length by 16 in breadth, and comprehends an area of 3,382 square miles. The surface is uneven and intersected in all parts by steep and rugged rocks. One of the highest, called Piton de Corbet, is about 800 feet above the level of the The shape of this hill resembles a cone, and it is on that account very difficult of access. The palm trees that cover it become more lofty and abundant near the summit, and these continually attract the clouds, which occasion noxious damps- and contribute to render it more rugged in appear, ance, and more dangerous to ascend. There are two other mountains conspicuous from their eleva- sea. 166 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. tion, and from these descend streams which irrigate the island. Martinique is better supplied with water and less exposed to hurricanes than Gaudaloupe, whilst the productions of both islands are nearly the same. The terrific hurricane of August 1831 visited Mar- tinique, but only injured the houses and plantations slightly, compared to what were its devastating effects on Barbadoes, St. Vincent, and St. Lucia. It is curious to mark the course of its fierce career. In the night of the 10th of August it visited Barbadoes. On that evening the sun set on a landscape of the greatest beauty and fertility, but rose on the following morning over a scene of utter desolation and waste. Every tree that was not entirely uprooted, was de- prived of its foliage and branches; houses were thrown down to the ground, or materially damaged, and many families buried in the ruins. The evening of the 10th of August was not remarkable for any peculiarity of appearance; but in the night it began to rain, accompanied with flashes of lightning, and a high wind; at midnight the wind encreased, the rain fell in torrents, and the lightning was vivid in the extreme. At one o'clock the hurricane com- menced, and from two until day-break it is impossible to convey any idea of the violence of the storm. The noise of the wind, the peals of thunder, and the rapidly repeated flashes of lightning, more like sheets of fire, the impenetrable darkness which succeeded, the crash of walls, roofs, and beams, were all mixed in appalling confusion. The tempest did not entirely cease, nor the atmosphere clear up, until about nine o'clock of the morning of the 11th. On the 11th it passed over the islands of St. Vin- 1 + MARTINIQUE. 167 cent and St. Lucia, extending a portion of its influence to Martinique and islands to the N.W., and to Grenada on the South, but exhibiting its principal violence between 121° and 141° N., or the parallels of Barbadoes and Martinique. On the 12th it arrived on the southern coast of Porto Rico; from the 12th to the 13th it swept over the south side of Hayti, and extended its influence as far southward as Ja- maica. On the 13th it raged on the eastern portion of Cuba, sweeping in its course over large districts. The town of Aux Cayes, in Hayti, was almost des- troyed by its force, and that of St. Jago de Cuba was very much damaged. On the 14th it was at Havana, and towards the west end of Cuba. On the 15th it proceeded north-westward, and on the 16th and 17th it arrived on the northern shores of the Mexican Sea, in about the 30th degree of latitude, raging simultaneously at Pensacola, Mobile, and New Orleans, where its effects were continued till the 18th. At New Orleans, on the 17th, it came on in dreadful gales, from N.E. to S.E., accompanied with torrents of rain. Almost all the shipping in the river were driven on shore, and very few of the smaller craft escaped total wreck. The back part of the city was completely inundated. The sugar canes, above and below the city, were laid flat, and the loss was enor- The gale was felt at Natchez, 300 miles up the river; and hereabout it spent itself in heavy rains, after having occupied a period of six days in its cycloidal course from Barbadoes. The distance passed over by this storm, in its passage from Barbadoes to New Orleans is equal to 2,100 nautical miles. The average rate, about 15 miles an hour. mous. MARTINIQUE. 169 of the beauty of this town. The streets are neat, regular, and cleanly; the houses are high and have more the air of European houses than those of the English colonies. Some of the streets have an avenue of trees, which overshadow the footpath; and on either side are deep gutters, down which the water flows. There are four booksellers' houses, and the fashions are well displayed in other shops. The cause is this: the French colonists, whether Creoles or French, consider the West Indies as their country: they cast no wistful looks towards France: they marry, educate, and build in and for the West Indies, and for the West Indies alone. In our colonies it is different; they are considered more as temporary lodging-places, to be deserted so soon as they have made money enough by molasses and sugar to return home. But we must land, as the steamer cannot stop. You are landed by shore boats, if you can get them; if not, by the boats from the steamer. As you are a passenger in the steamer, the custom-house officer does not search your luggage, but politely asks you what are the contents of your trunks. come by sailing vessel there would have been much pother about them. It is also the same as to passports. One may arrive and depart in the steamers without their being required; it is not so when you come or go by sailing ships; in this case much formality is observed. The fee for a passport taken from here is 10 francs, and you must personally attend at the offices of the Com- missary of Police and that of the Administrator of the Interior. You escape all this trouble by being a Had you MARTINIQUE. 171 jauntily carried over the head, and bent back with sham jewels into a tiara, gives them a voluptuous and imperial air. Daniel O’Mullane, Esq., is the Agent in this island for the Royal Mail Company. The number of the Slave population, according to census of 1838, in Martinique was 76,517. M. Schælcher estimates the number of slaves that had escaped from Martinique and Guadaloupe alone, to the English islands, up to 1842, at 5,000; “The troops of the line” he remarks, are harassed by the severe duty of guarding the coasts in conjunc- tion with the colonists.' 66 Two NEWSPAPERS are published at Martinique. Journal Officiel, at Port Royal, on Wednesday and Saturday, by M. Thoubeau. Established 1817. Courrier de la Martinique, at St. Pierre, on Tuesday and Friday, by Bart. Thounen. Established 1832. ( 172 ) AXIDIIS OPIBUSQUE PARATI. DOMINICA Was discovered by Columbus on his second voyage, on Sunday, November 3rd, 1493, and hence called by him St. Domingo or Dominica. It lies in 15° 25' N. lat., and 61° 15' W. long.; is 29 miles in length, and about 16 in breadth; and contains 186,436 acres of land, divided into ten parishes. For many years, though claimed by England, France, and Spain, the several claims were undecided. It fell by conquest, in the year 1759, into the possession of the English, and it was afterwards ceded to Eng- land by France, by the treaty signed in Paris, 1763. In October of that year, commissioners were ap- pointed to dispose of the lands, and letters patent were issued placing Dominica with other islands under the government of Grenada, and directing the governors, “that so soon as the state and circum- stances of the said colonies should admit thereof, DOMINICA. 173 they should call general assemblies and make laws as near as may be agreeable to the laws of England, &c.” The island is extremely mountainous, and appears rugged and broken. Several of its mountains are extinguished volcanoes, which still frequently dis- charge burning sulphur, and from which issue hot springs. There are several rivers and rivulets which abound in fish. The soil is rich in the extreme, and the vegetation is most luxuriant; the trees are of an uncommon height, and far exceed the tallest timber in England: the ferns, too, are of extraordinary size; there are whole forests of these in the dips and re- cesses of the hills, some of the separate ones stand 20 to 25 feet in height. Roseau, where the steamer calls, is the capital; it is seated on a point of land which forms two bays, Woodbridge to the north, and Charlotteville to the south. In the hurricane months, the sea from the southward tumbles in here in a terrific manner, and rises at times to an alarming height. “The scenery behind the town is beautifully grand;” remarks the same lively writer we have before quoted, “indeed, the whole prospect from the edge of Morne Bruce, a lofty table rock occupied by the garrison, is one of the very finest in the West Indies. The valley runs up for many miles in a gently inclined plane between mountains of irregular heights and shapes, most of which are clothed up to their cloudy canopies with rich parterres of green coffee which perfumes the whole atmosphere even to some distance over the sea; the river rolls a deep and roaring stream down the middle of the vale, and is joined at the outlet of each side of a mountain 174 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. apex in torrent, whilst at the top, where the rocks converge into an acute angle, a cascade falls from the a long sheet of silvery foam.” The town of Roseau is well laid out; the streets are long and spacious and regularly paved, inter- secting each other at right angles; there is also a large square or promenade; but the effects of the great fire that occurred in 1781, together with the tyranny and folly of the French rulers, were so ruinous both to the colony in general, and the town in particular, that neither the one nor the other have since that time been able to recover their former prosperity. You may walk along a street for half a mile, the houses seem to be complete, but they are all closed, and the grass grows lush and verdantly between the stones. The fortifications of Roseau, namely, Young's Fort, Melville's Battery, Bruce's Hill, and Fort Demoulin, are very strong and in commanding posi- tions. The climate may be said to resemble that of England very much, with the exception of its greater moisture. The average temperature at Roseau is be- tween 73° and 85°, but in the interior and on the mountains the heat is much reduced, and indeed so cold as to render woollens indispensable for body clothing, and bed covering. The inhabitants are divided by language and re- ligion, and petty intestine quarrels destroy that unanimity which in so small a community should prevail. Coffee is the chief product of the island. There are about 200 coffee plantations and 50 sugar estates. The highest mountain in Dominica is 5,300 feet DOMINICA. 175 above the level of the sea. At about six miles from Roseau, near the centre of the island, and on the top of a very high mountain, surrounded by others more lofty, is a lake of fresh water, covering a space of several acres, and in some places unfathomable; it spreads itself into three distinct branches, and has a very extraordinary appearance. The laws in force in this island are its own acts of Assembly, and so much of the common and statute law of England, adapted to the circumstances of the colony, as existed prior to the proclamation of 7th October 1763, and such acts of Parliament passed since, as are expressly declared or manifestly in- tended to apply to the island or to the colonies in general. SHIPPING. Tons. Inwards. Ships. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840.. 277 12,666 1,673 | 1840.. 273 12,294 1,683 1841., 316 13,030 1,860 1841.. 321 12,808 1,846 1844.. 344 13,431 1842.. 347 13,709 SCHOLARS. 293 9) 1840. Daily.. 1,064. Sunday.. 1841. 1,420. 1842. 1,176. 246 Supported partly from funds at disposal of Bishop, partly Mico Charity, and a small part by Collections and Subscrip- tions, and Wesleyan Missions. Total Expenditure of the Mico Charity in the Island, for the Year ending 30th September, amounts to £1,770 4s. 11 d. sterling. 176 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1840 1841 1842. Baptisms. .717 52 118 Marriages. 351 12 27 Burials. 157* 83 76 WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1840. 1841. 1842. Domestic, per month. ... 18s. to 25s. .. 18s. to 25s. .. 20s. Predial on Estates, with House and Ground, 9d. to ls. 7 d. to 9d... 9d. per day Trades on Estates, with rent free, per day..'S House and Ground, 10d. to 1s.6d.. 9d. to 1s. .. ? 3s Ditto, without ditto .. 28. to 3s.6d. . 2s.6d. to 3s.6d.. S 1841. S. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1840. 1812. $. d. d. S. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb. 0 0 3.0 0 4 0 0 4 Beef.. 0 0 7.00 7.0 0 71 Mutton 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 0 9 Pork 0 0 5.0 0 52.00 5} Rice. per quart. 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 Coffee 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 Tea 0 6 0 0 7 0 7 0 Sugar 0 0 7 ..00 72.. 0 0 4 per lb. ..0 .. COURSE OF EXCHANGE. Average rate on London, 1840, £247 10 O per £100 sterl. 1841, £247 7 11 1842.-By an Act of the Legislature of this Colony the Cur- rency has been assimilated to that of Great Britain. A Sulphur Mine, on the Souffrière Estate, in the parish of St. Mark, shipped in 1840 to Great Britain, upwards of 450 tons of ore. * The pumber of deaths cannot be accurately ascertained. Those only who have been buried in the town of Rosean are entered in the register. ( 178 ) GUADALOUPE Is situated in long. 62° W. and lat. 16° 20' N. It consists properly of two islands, separated from each other by a narrow channel called La Rivière Salèe, which is navigable by vessels of 50 tons burthen. This strait is an arm of the sea, about two leagues in length, and no scene can be more pleasant than the passage; the water being clear and still, and the banks on each side lined with mangroves and palmet- toes, which afford excellent refreshment and shelter from the heat. Guadaloupe was discovered by Columbus, who found it inhabited by a warlike people; but they were soon subdued by the Spaniards. In 1635 it was taken by the French. In 1759 it was conquered by Britain, but restored to France in 1763. After this period it was twice taken by Britain, but by the political ad- justment of affairs which took place in 1814, it re- verted to France. The western division of the island, called Basse Terre, is the most important; it is 15 leagues in length and 14 in breadth, and divided into two parts by a ridge of very high rugged mountains, extending north and south; so high, indeed, that the continual cold suffers nothing to grow but fern, and sometimes useless trees covered with moss. Toward the south point there appears a mountain, called La Souffriere, or the Sulphur Hill, which is about 5,500 feet above the level of the sea. This mountain exhales a thick black smoke, mixed with sparks, visible from the From the mountains flow many streams, that sea. GUADALOUPE. 179 low. carry fruitfulness into the plains, and attemper the burning air of the climate. The eastern division of the island, distinguished by the name of Grand Terre, about 14 leagues in length and 6 in breadth, has not been so much favoured by nature as the western part; it is less rough, and more level, but it wants springs and rivers; the soil, more sandy, is not so fertile, nor is its climate so healthy. The eastern part is very The principal town, Port-a-Pitre, or St. Louis, con- tains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable trade. The chief town of Guadaloupe is that named Basse Terre, to which the steamers convey the mails and passengers; it is situated near the south end of the island. It is a very pretty and convenient town; it is clean, well built, the seat of Government, and contains 5,500 inhabitants. It has also two parish churches, a government house, hall of justice, a large hospital, an arsenal, some good public fountains and promenades, and a fine colonial garden. It is defended by several batteries on the sea side. Guadaloupe is celebrated for the beauty of its It was first peopled by the French, and it belongs to them now: the dress and manners of the mother country are prevalent. The legislature consists of a governor and a colonial council of 30 members, elected for five years by natives of France, resident in the island, above 25 years of age, and paying taxes of 300 francs a year, or having a capital of the value of 30,000 francs. In 1836, the number of electors was 1092. To be eligible for a member of council, the individual must be 30 years of age, and pay taxes to the amount of women. N 2 180 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 600 francs, or possess property to the value of 60,000 francs. In 1836, 619 persons were eligible for coun- sellors. The colony had in 1836 a military com- mandant, and an armed force of 2,138 men, including 100 officers. The Governor of Guadaloupe is independent of the Governor of Martinique. The number of slaves in 1838, was 93,349. Two NewSPAPERS are published at Guadaloupe. Journal Commercial, Point a Pitre, Wednesday and Satur- day, by Vve Minée. Established 1811. Courrier de la Guadaloupe, Point a Pitre, Tuesday, Thurs- day, and Saturday, by A. Haget. Established 1834. ( 181 ) ANTIGUA Is the largest and most important English island in the Northern Windward group. It was discovered by Columbus on his second voyage in 1493, and named by him from a church in Seville called Santa Maria de la Antigua. It is situate in lat. 17° 3' N. and long. 62° 7' W.; it is of an oblong shape, being about 20 miles long, about 50 miles in circumference, and contains 59,838 acres of land. It is divided into six parishes and eleven districts. As early as 1632, a few English families took up lands there and began the cultivation of tobacco. This island had been granted by Charles I. to the Earl of Carlisle, but Charles II. purchased the Earl's rights, and conferred them on Lord Willoughby, then governor of Barbadoes, who settled a colony there in a few years. Antigua enjoyed a legislative assembly at least as early as 10th of April, 1668, this being the date of 182 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. the first Antigua Act mentioned in the printed col- lections. This island being afterwards subdued by a French force, but subsequently retaken by the British, all the former titles of British subjects to land therein had become forfeited to the Crown, and Charles II. granted confirmations of former titles of these lands, in consideration whereof the Assembly by Act of 19th of May, 1668, consented to the im- position of the 41 per cent. duty on exported produce, which was only repealed in 1838, as previously shewn in the article on Barbadoes. In 1672, Antigua with St. Kitt's, Nevis, Mont- serrat, and the Virgin islands, were consolidated under one general government, called “The Leeward Caribbee Island Government." This Leeward Island Government no longer exists, the islands of which it was composed being differently combined. On the 19th December, 1832, the islands of Antigua, Mont- serrat, Barbuda, St. Kitt's, Nevis, Dominica, and the Virgin islands, were comprised under one govern- ment; each island, however, enjoying a legislative council and assembly of its own. The council of Antigua consists of 12 members, and the assembly of 25. Antigua has å rocky shore, and is surrounded by many dangerous reefs. There being no rivers, and but few springs, and those mostly brackish, the in- habitants are obliged to preserve the rain water in tanks and cisterns. Excessive droughts sometimes impede and destroy vegetation. But, dry as Antigua is generally represented to be, the interior is not without gentle wooded hills and green meadowy vales. The island has no central eminences; the highest elevation being about 1200 feet; but is, for the most part, ramparted round by ANTIGUA. 183 very magnificent cliffs, which slope inward in gradual declivities. The heart of the island is verdant with an abundant pasturage or grassy down, and the nu- merous houses of the planters, embosomed in trees, have more the appearance of country mansions in England than almost any others in the West Indies. The shores are indented in every direction with creeks, and bays, and coves, some of them running into the centre of the plantations like canals, some swell- ing into estuaries, and others forming spacious har- bours. Beyond these, an infinite variety of islands and islets stud the bosom of the blue sea, and stand out like so many advanced posts of defence against the invading waves. They are of all sizes and shapes, and are given up to the rearing of provisions and the maintenance of a great number of cattle. The steamer goes to English Harbour, which is on the south side of the island, and has a compact dock- yard, with stores and materials for repairing and heaving down and careening ships. The mouth of English Harbour, which is 113 fathoms across, was formerly defended in times of warfare by an immense iron chain. This, however, is now no more; but it is said the staples by which it was secured still remain in the massive rocks. The harbour is now protected by two forts, placed on each side of the opening; Fort Charlotte mounted with four guns, 18 and 24 pounders; Fort Berkley, mounting 24 guns. At the latter fort is a magazine. This harbour is a remarkably snug and pretty place, but reputed to be unhealthy. The extreme neatness of the docks, the busy village in their vicinity, the range of hills of various shapes and colours which encircles the inland sides, and the > 184 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. rocky ridge which frowns over the mouth, with its union-flag, and cannons, and ramparts, present such a combination of tropical beauty, and English style and spirit, as is scarcely to be seen in the West Indies. At English Harbour, where passengers land, ac- commodation is to be found at Richardson's Hotel, which is as neat and comfortable as such places generally are. Horses and carriages may also be procured at Brooke's and Gordon's, which is a great convenience to those whom business directs to pro- ceed to the capital. Nor are the roads in general to be complained of, considering the annual injury they sustain in the rainy season. English Harbour is a naval dock-yard, where the largest ships on the station may be hauled up alongside the wharf to be repaired. The water is deep enough to float vessels of any burden, and the wharf is very commodious to land passengers and baggage from the steamer. In order to facilitate the approach of the steamers during the night or in hazy weather, the Legislature are about erecting lights to guide them. Passengers may avail themselves of the boat kept by the Queen's pilot. St. John's, the capital of Antigua, lies 12 miles distant and on the opposite side of the island; it is prettily situated on the top and acclivities of a mo- derate eminence. The streets are wide, and laid out at right angles, and are generally clean, and some of the houses are good notwithstanding the severe shock they sustained in the late earthquake. The population of the city by the census just taken is nearly 9000. In more than one instance the police force has not been found sufficient to check the law- ANTIGUA. 185 lessness of the lower orders, and to correct which it has been recommended that power should be given to the local government by an act of corporation to this and other cities for their own guidance and protection. Jamaica and Trinidad are, we believe, the only islands where the capitals possess civic self- rule. We are not prepared to enter into the legal points, but we agree with our correspondent that charters of corporation emanating from the Crown would be of much service, and perhaps if memorials were forwarded to the proper quarter, many salutary changes in this way might be effected. What the colonists require is more independence of action and power to act in local matters. The traveller may calculate on meeting in St. John's every comfort beyond what an itinerary or hebdomadal visitor would wish for. There are some very good hotels after their sort, the fare being about 88. sterling per diem, and in proportion to the habits of the guests. There is an excellent library, which perhaps ranks the highest in the West Indies, and indeed is equal to many of the first libraries of the county towns in the united kingdom. Any stranger, recommended by a member, has free access to it for the first month of his sojourn. This library is in- corporated and is governed by a committee of 14, who are elected annually. The windward northern islands have been created by Queen's patent into a separate diocese, styled the Bishopric of Antigua, and St. John's has in conse- quence been raised to the dignity of a city. There are 14 churches and chapels attached to the esta- blished religion, two of which escaped injury from the late earthquake, viz., St. George's and St. Mary's. 4 188 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. than most of the others in command." The hottest months are June, July, and August. The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season in the shade is about 80° and during the other parts of the year 70°. September, October, and November are generally reckoned the unhealthy periods of the year. The sea-breezes are not then so steady, and a heavy sultry calm impends. 1840..... 1841. 1842. Baptisms. 981 655 795 Marriages. 554 523 458 Deaths. 931 574 623 1 SCHOOLS AND SCHOLARS. 5 parishes. 1840 2092 Scholars. 1841 2267 1842. 2370 Cost : £250 from Colonial Legislature and voluntary con- tributions. WESLEYAN CONNEXION. 1842. Scholars. Males.. 814 Females.. 1142 Total. . 1956 Teachers. 56 104 160 SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 .. 542 37,609 2,925 | 1840 475 37,375 3,133 1841 .. 347 22,015 2,306 1841 45 10,245 608 1842 .. 431 22,710 2,722 1842 474 33,389 PAPER CIRCULATION. 1840. Colonial Bank average amount of notes in circulation... 860,000 1841. Ditto ditto 70,000 West India, from 2nd Aug. to 30th Sept.. 35,000 1842. Ditto during the year 50,936 190 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. MONTSERRAT Was discovered by Columbus on his second voyage. It lies in 16° 47' N. lat., and 62° 13' W. long: is about three leagues in length, and as many in breadth; and contains about 30,000 acres of land, two-thirds of which are very mountainous or very barren. It bears the cypress, cedar, iron tree, and other woods, and has the same general character of soil that is observable in the other Caribbee islands. Its mountainous character, and probably some resemblance, induced Columbus to give it the name of a mountain near Barcelona, in Spain. The word is also expressive of its broken and hilly ap- pearance. The Spaniards made no settlement in the island. Like Nevis, it was first planted by a small colony from St. Christopher's. This was detached, in 1632, from the adventurers under Warner. Montserrat possessed a legislative council and as- sembly as early as 1668. An Act in that year re- MONTSERRAT. 191 cites that, during the late war between Charles II., the French king, and the Netherlands, his Britannic majesty lost several of his islands in the West Indies; but that this same island, having been afterwards resettled and restored by several ships and forces belonging to his said majesty, King Charles II., his majesty, in consideration of the payment of 4) per cent. export duty, reinvested the late proprietors in all their lands, &c. This island, with Barbadoes, Antigua, Nevis, St. Kitt's, and Tortola, were assessed with these oner- ous duties until 1838, when they were repealed. They amounted, from their first establishment till re- pealed, to between seven and eight millions sterling. Montserrat was finally ceded to Great Britain under the general pacification which took place in 1783. One of the Acts of Assembly passed about this time is very curious. It recites, in an Eastern style of metaphor, that approbrious language, “if not prevented, may overshadow the good government and administration of justice in this island with the staple clouds of reproach and infamy;" and it then proceeds to prohibit such language generally, and the following in particular, “ Tory, English, Irish, Scotch Dog The original settlers were Irish, and the present inhabitants are composed chiefly of their descend- ants, or natives of Ireland, and the jargon of the negroes has an Irish brogue.* * It is said that a Connaught man on arrival at Montserrat was, to his astonishment, bailed in vernacular Irish by a negro from one of the boats that came alongside. “ Thunder and turf," cries Paddy, “how long have you been here ?” “ Three months,” answered Quashy. “ Three months! and so black already !” “ Thaunamun dowl,” says Pat, thinking Quashy a countryman, “ I'll not stay among ye.” And the Connaught man was soon on bis return home with a white skin. 194 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 1 God said to the Forest as he said to the Sea, “Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther.” The view was beautiful; behind me the woody mountain rose into the clouds, before me it descended in a long grassy slope to the edge of the sea; on my left hand to the south, the broad and irregular eminences of Guada- loupe presented the appearance of a continent; to the north Redonda shone like an emerald in the midst of the blue waves, and beyond it stood the great pyramid of Nevis cut off from sight at one third from its summit by an ever-resting canopy of clouds. The wind was so fresh, the air so cool, the morning dew so healthy and spangling that I might have forgotten, but for the deep beauty that was around me, that I was still within the tropics. I seemed to have left all languor and listlessness below, and really felt for a season the strength, the spirits and the elasticity of youthful life in England.” 1 ! SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840 ....163 6,752 854 | 1840 137 4,997 662 1841 85 3,541 467 1841 85 3,541 467 1842 . 141 5,326 752 | 1842 146 5,458 782 Note.—The return for 1841 is for a period of only nine months, on account of the alteration in making up the Blue Book. SCHOLARS. 1840. Church of England 1841. Expense, £142 14s.. 1842. Sunday Scholars Males. 302 290 .. 267 Females. 340 343 300 Total, 642 633 567 459 MONTSERRAT. 195 Males. 1840. Wesleyan Methodists ... 222 1841. Expense, £128. 153 1842. 98 Sunday Scholars Females. 268 142 105 Total. 490 295 203 454 WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1840. 1841. 1842. Domestic, per ? 13s. 6d. to 27s. 13s.6d, to 18s. 13s.6d. to 18s. month. Agricultural, 6d. 9d. 6d. to 6 d. per day Trades, per month, 45s. to 54s. same. same. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1840. 1841. 1812. S. d. S. d. S. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb. 0 0 9 0 0 4.0 0 4.1 Beef.. ...' 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 0 9 Mutton 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 09 Pork 0 0 6 0 0 6 0 0 6 Rice... per 100 lbs. 1 2 0 1 7 0 1 2 0 Coffee 5 126 5 12 6 5 126 Tea 0 9 0 90 0 9 Sugar 1 16 0 2 0 6 1 16 per lb. per cwt. COURSE OF EXCHANGE. 1840 £212 10 0 per £100 sterling. 1841 210 0 0 1842 220 5 0 Circulation.—Coin, about £5,000. No local paper. Notes of Colonial and West India Bank circulate. Amount of collective IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840, Imports..... £9,994 Exports.... £24,227. The amount of Slave Compensation paid to Montserrat, was £103,558 18s. 5d. 02 ( 196 ) NEVIS. This beautiful little island lies in lat. 17° 14' N., and long. 63° 3' W. It is separated from St. Kitt's by a strait only two miles broad. It was discovered by Columbus on his second voyage. The English first established themselves in this island in 1628, under the protection and encouragement of Sir Thos. Warner. Nevis possessed a legislative council and assembly at least as early as 1664, which is the date of the first act in its printed collection of laws. It was one of those islands granted to James, Earl of Carlisle, by Charles I.; but afterwards Charles II., by pur- chase, invested himself in all the rights of the said Earl, and appointed Francis, Lord Willoughby of Parham, his Captain-General of this and the other Caribbee islands, and imposed the 41 per cent. duties on all exported articles. By the commission of 1 198 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. ling. Luggage is searched on the wharf, but no duties are charged on such articles as are personal luggage. There is a branch of the West India Bank in this island; and both dollars and British money pass current. Nevis is celebrated for its mineral springs. The principal hotel is the Bath-House. It is situated on a rising ground, and commands a view of the town, adjacent country, and the sea. It may be considered one of the most salubrious localities in the island. Appertaining to this establishment are hot and tepid baths possessing most valuable medicinal properties. At one part of the stream which supplies the baths, there are two springs; one so intensely cold as to produce a chill through the whole frame, and the other too hot to be borne by the naked foot. Gigs and saddle-horses may be had on hire at moderate charges. There is an Episcopal Church and Methodist Chapel, to each of which schools are attached. There is also a news-room and billiard-room. The seasons may be divided into the dry and rainy. The rainy season begins in August and continues to Janu- ary—the other months may be called the dry season. The dews are copious and should be avoided. The average height of the thermometer is about 82°; but any degree of temperature may be chosen according to the elevation. On some of the hill estates several of the European culinary plants are cultivated, such as sea-kale, turnips, carrots. There are also strawberries, peaches, &c. The pines and oranges of Nevis are celebrated. James Colquhoun, Esq., St. James's Place, is the Agent for the island in London. Jas. Davoren, Esq. 200 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. S. S. 8. 1840. 1841. 1842. d. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb... 0 0 41.00 41.0 0 4 Beef 0 09 0 0 9 0 0 9 Mutton 0 0 9 ..0 0 0 0 Pork ....0 0 77.0 0 73..0 0 71 Rice 0 0 43..0 0 41.0 0 43 Coffee.. 0 1 6 .0 1 0 1 6 Tea.. 0 10 0 .0 10 0 0 10 0 Sugar. 0 1 0 .0 1 0 ..0 1 0 29 Collective amount of IMPORTS and EXPORTS in 1840, Imports.... £27,005. Exports.... £41,776. Amount of Slave Compensation for Nevis, £151,007 2s. 11d. (201) ST. CHRISTOPHER, GENERALLY called St Kitt's, lies in 17° 15' N. lat. and 63° 17' W. long. This island is in shape like a lute; its extreme length is about 21 miles; its breadth at the broadest part about 7 miles. It con- tains about 68 square miles, or 44,000 acres, of which about 30,000 are cultivable. It is divided into nine parishes, and contains four towns and hamlets, viz., Basseterre, the capital, Sandy Point, Old Road, and Deep Bay. This sin- gular-looking but beautiful spot was discovered by Columbus himself, who gave it his own name, but it was neither planted nor possessed by the Spaniards. It is the oldest of all the British Colonies in the West Indies; indeed it may be called the common mother of all the English and French settlements in the Caribbee Islands. Mr. Thomas Warner with ST. CHRISTOPHER. 203 The apex series of mountains from N. to S., in the midst of which stands Mount Misery, 3,700 feet in per- pendicular height, and clothed with the finest wood and pasture almost to the summit, at the other side the mountain slopes uniformly to the coast, richly cultivated in every part. “The vale of Basseterre, looking from the sea,” remarks Mr. Coleridge, “in softness, richness, and perfection of cultivation, surpasses anything I have ever seen in my life. Green velvet is an inadequate image of the exquisite verdancy of the cane fields which lie along this lovely valley and cover the smooth acclivities of Monkey Hill. This hill is the southern termination of a range of great mountains which in- crease in height towards the north, and thicken to- gether in enormous masses in the centre of the island. of this rude pyramid is the awful crag of Mount Misery, which shoots slantingly forward over the mouth of a volcanic chasm like a huge peninsula in the air. It is bare and black, and generally visible whilst the under parts of the mountain are enveloped in the clouds. The height is more than 3,700 feet, and is the most tremendous precipice I ever beheld. But the ruggedness of this central cluster only ren- ders the contrast of the cultivated lands below more striking." The fort on Brimstone Hill is a very imposing object; it is situated on a huge rock, precipitous on all sides but one, backed by the mountains and fronted by the level coast and the western sea. If there is time, you generally are landed in the steamer's boat. If by shore boat, the usual charge is a quarter dollar. There is no very particular ex- amination of your luggage. As in the other islands, 204 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. are dollars and British money are current : there branches of the Colonial and West India banks. The two principal hotels are better houses than are generally met with of that class in the West Indies. The cuisine is very good, and the bed- rooms airy and clean. There are some delightful rides, and good saddle-horses and gigs are to be engaged at fair charges. The roads are remarkably good, and the Level and salt lakes are objects worthy of being visited. The Level is a very remarkable spot in the midst of the mountains, somewhat more than half the distance in the ascent to the tops of the principal range; presenting an extensive and beauti- ful plain of verdant grass, shut out from everything that reminds you of the tropics; and the chilliness of the atmosphere carries off one's imagination to the frigid zone before you have been five minutes on the spot. The monkeys have selected it as a general rendezvous. Most of the common vegetables of Eu- rope will grow there, and the face of the country is quite different from the lowlands. There are nine parish churches in the island, also several Moravian and Wesleyan chapels. Schools are in connexion with these bodies: and there is a classical seminary also, under the care of a graduate of Cambridge. An excellent reading-room is supplied with standard English literature and newspapers. There is a billiard-room also. From the smallness of the island and its elevation above the sea, St. Kitt's is extremely dry and healthy. The thermometer ranges from 80° to 90° in the shade. There is no winter; August to November is deemed the least healthy period. The dews are not heavy; but the island is subject to storms and earthquakes. ST. CHRISTOPHER. 205 James Colquhoun, Esq., is the Agent for the island in London. AREA. 68 Square Miles. 171 Acres. POPULATION, July 1838. Males. Females. Males. Females. Free....4,952 5,483. Apprenticed....5,739 6,308. Grand Total 22,482. SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840.... 454 21,790 2,472 | 1840 . 453 21,239 2,449 1841. 284 12,730 1,427 | 1841 ..300 14,741 1,581 1842. 469 23,782 2,535 | 1842 ..475 22,723 2,507 Collective value of IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840, Imports......£134,732. Exports. . ....£217,403. COIN AND PAPER IN CIRCULATION. Coin, about £2,000 sterling. Paper, Notes of Colonial Bank, amounting to about 810,000. Average course of Exchange for three years, 1840-41-42, per £100 sterling : 1840 8460 to 8480 1841 465 to 480 1842 465 to 480 WAGES FOR LABOUR. 8. 8. Domestic, per month. Predial, per day.. Trades 1840. 1841. s. d. d. 0 18 0 .0 18 0 1 0 1 0.0 1 01.0 0 2 1 0 1842. d, 0 10 1 03 2 1 ..0 206 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. 8. S. 8. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1840. 1841. 1842. d. d. d. Wheaten Bread, per lb. 0 0 4 0 0 4 0 0 4 Beef.......... 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 0 9 Mutton 0 0 0 0 0 0 9 Pork 0 0 63.00 63.00 6. Rice per 100 lb. 1 0 6 1 5 0 1 5 Coffee.. 0 1 1 .0 1 1 .0 1 1 Tea.. 0 6 3 0 6 3 0 6 3 Sugar.... per 100 lbs. 1 7 0 1 7 0 7 0 per lb. SchoolS AND SCHOLARS. 47 Sunday and Daily Schools. Returns of Scholars imperfect. Slave Compensation to St. Kitt's, £331,630 10s. 7d. NEWSPAPERS published at St. Kitt's :- St. Kitt's Gazette, at Basseterre, Friday, by J. A. Howe. Established 1828. St. Kitt's Advertiser, ditto, Tuesday, Mrs. E. Cable. Esta- blished 1813. ( 207 ) AA a 십 ​THE VIRGIN ISLES. TORTOLA. TORTOLA is the central, and chief of the English islands, of this group. It is composed of about 30 isles, islets, and large rocks, whose rocky coasts were formerly notorious because of shipwrecks. But na- ture has arranged them so as to form a grand basin in the midst, where ships may lie at anchor, land- locked, and sheltered from every wind. The other islands belonging to Great Britain in this group, are called Virgin Gorda, Josvan Dykes, Guana Isle, Beef and Thatch Islands, Anegada (or the drowned island), Nicker, Prickly Pear, and Mosquito Islands, the Cammanoes, Scrub, and Dog islands, the Fallen City (two rocky islets close to- gether, at a distance resembling ruins), the Round Rock, Ginger, Cooper's Salt Island, Peter's Island, and the dead chest. 208 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. These islands, except Anegada, are high and bold, and may be seen 9 to 10 leagues off. They appear at a distance, as if united together; but there are many deep channels between them, through which those acquainted sail with safety. In all these channels there is the greatest plenty of fish, which may be caught by hook and line, or with the seine. Tortola is about 18 miles long from E. to W., and 7 in its greatest breadth. It was first settled by a party of Dutch bucaniers. These, in 1666, were driven out by others, who took possession in the name of the king of England. Protection being afforded to them, Tortola was soon afterwards an- nexed to the Government of the so called Leeward Islands. The first assembly met on the 1st of Feb- ruary, 1774, under a proclamation, dated November, 1773, issued in consequence of a petition from the inhabitants, who, in consideration of being allowed a house of assembly, had promised to grant an import of 41 per cent. to the king. That grant was the first act of their legislature. The chief town, also called Tortola, is situate on the south side of the island, close to the water's edge, in the western bight of a magnificent harbour, which extends 15 miles in length and 31 in breadth. This harbour is perfectly land-locked, and was the resort of large fleets of vessels waiting for convoy in time of war. It is large enough to shelter 400 ships at one time. This island is very rugged and mountainous, in- differently watered, and rather unhealthy. There are several waste spots with zigzag paths skirting the mountain sides which render the interior difficult of TORTOLA. 209 access. It, however, produces cotton of superior quality, sugar, and rum. The fruits are few in variety and indifferent, apples excepted. The steamer's boat takes you on shore; the luggage is examined on the wharf, and duty charged on articles that do not appear to have been worn. Passengers should bring British gold and silver or Spanish dol- lars and doubloons. There is no bank in the island. As very few strangers visit this island, tavern ac- commodation is not the best; there is one hotel very near the landing-place respectably conducted. The cost of living is from 21 to 3 dollars per day. There is little worth seeing in Tortola; but the reefs and caverns of the island of Anegada about 40 miles distant, the copper mines, and natural baths of sea water, so closely sheltered by large rocks that the heat of the sun does not penetrate, in Virgin Gordon about 18 miles distant, are represented as worthy of a visit. Deaths. 94 1840.. 1841. 1842.. Baptisms. 251 157 264 Marriages. 33 14 38 38 85 SCHOOLS, Including Virgin Island, Salt Island, and Anageda. 9 in 1840. Number of Scholars.. 452 10 in 1841. 668 10 in 1842. ..684 WESLEYAN. 7 Schools. Number of Scholars.. 692 Expense, £483 12s. 70. SHIPPING. Inwards. Ships. Tons. Men. Outwards. Ships. Tons. Men. 1840.... 455 4,051 1,325 ( 1840.. 457 4,015 1,326 1841.. 481 4,033 1,338 | 1841.. 519 4,205 1,458 1842.. 577 3,792 1,488 | 1842.... 605 3,883 1,538 P 210 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. CURRENCY. Coins.-Doubloons pass for Dollars (Spanish round) Half-crown (English) Shilling Sixpence £6 120 0 8 3 0 5 0 0 2 0 0 1 0 S. WAGES FOR LABOUR. 1840. 1841. 1849. s. d. S. d. d. Domestic, per month 1 0 0..0 16 6..0 16 6 Predial, per day 0 6..0 0 6.0 06 Trades 0 2 6..0 2 6..0 2 6 Note.-Those employed on Estates are allowed a House and Provision Grounds, also Pasture for their Cattle, free of expense. PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1840. 1841. 1842. s. d. £ d. € Beef 0 0 6.. 0 0 6.. 0 0 6 Mutton .0 0 71 0 0 71 .0 0 6 Pork .0 0 6. 0 0 6. 0 0 6 Rice 0 0 3....0 3.. 0 0 3 Coffee ..0 1 0. 0 0. 0 1 0 Tea 0 5 6. 0 5 6. 0 5 6 Sugar 0 0 6. 0 0 6.. 0 0 6 Salt 1 0. 0 1 0.. 0 1 0 Wheaten Bread varies according to the price of Flour. Price of Flour not stated. 8. per lb. per barrel.. 0 Collective value of IMPORTS and EXPORTS, 1840. Imports.... £10,964 Exports.. £12,966 Amount of Slave Compensation to the Virgin Isles, was £72,940 8s. 5d. There is no local Newspaper published in Tortola. 1 212 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. invested these islands. The town is neatly built on three hills running in a parallel line at the northern or inland extremity of the bay; and these are sur- mounted by picturesque conical mountains. Most of the houses are of brick, built and tiled after the Dutch fashion, but of only one story, from the want of a good foundation, as it generally happens that before they dig to the depth of three feet, water and quicksands are found. The steamers come in to about half a mile of the landing-place. Shore-boats are off to them immediately. These are all numbered and under strict regulations. The charge for landing is about 1s., or ls. 3d. British, for one person and luggage. The Custom House does not in any manner what- ever interfere with or examine passengers or their luggage; who are permitted to land so soon as the harbour-master has visited the vessel, and finds no dangerous sickness on board. Passports on arriving are not needed; but pas- sengers lodging on shore for one night or more, are required to take out passports from the police before leaving. The charges are, for Europe, or the United States, 2 dollars; to the West India islands, &c., 1 dollar. The current monies are South American dou- bloons, dollars and parts, and Danish colonial small coins. Other coins are received generally at a fair exchange, the average value of the sovereign being 4 dollars 80 cents. The money of account, among merchants and bankers, is dollars and cents. There are two banks: the Bank of St. Thomas, and the Colonial Bank. There are several respectable hotels or boarding- ST. THOMAS. 213 houses. The best, which is one of the largest and handsomest in the West Indies, is situated close to the principal landing-place. The usual charge for one person is 21 dollars per day for board and lodging; to which wines, &c., must be added. There is also an additional charge for a private parlour when required. The water made use of for drinking is rain-water, collected in good tanks belonging to the house. Ice is abundant, being brought from America. The generality of passengers dine at an ordinary, and find well-supplied tables, with good cooking and attendance. There are other houses at lower charges, but the company is not so select. Carriages and horses are kept for hire; the charge is from 2 to 4 dollars for a drive of three hours, (which should be taken before sunrise,) during which time the greater part of the island may be visited. St. Thomas is under the authority of the Governor- General of St. Croix, the chief of the Danish West India Islands. With St. Croix the steamers do not communicate; but there is communication, at least three times a-week, by means of schooners, the fare being 4 dollars each way. There is also frequent intercourse with various European ports, such as Hamburgh, Havre-de-Grace, Bordeaux, Marseilles, Genoa; and with New York, Philadelphia, Boston and Bal- timore, in the United States; by regular traders, fine brigs and ships of superior description, and having in general good accommodations for passengers, Schooners for all parts of Porto Rico, Venezuela and Curaçoa, are constantly running backward and for- ward. The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's ships are the only steamers visiting the port. The 214 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. ! island does not possess any objects of general in- terest; but to an European, the rides about the island must be interesting. There are Lutheran, Protestant, Moravian, and Roman Catholic Churches, and a Jewish Synagogue. Instruction is given in the Danish, English, and French languages, and also by the Moravians, in Creole Dutch. The schools, being chiefly for the children of slaves, are not good. Strolling companies of equestrians, sometimes visit St. Thomas, but there is no theatre. An excellent news-room is maintained by public subscription, having all the principal periodicals, English, French and American, together with the daily London news- papers, and Danish, German and French publica- tions. Strangers are introduced by members, who insert their names and designations in a book kept for that purpose. About 200 regular Danish troops are in garrison; and every free male inhabitant is obliged to serve in the militia corps from the age of 16 to 60. The thermometer ranges from 740 to 90° in the shade at noon; at night it sometimes goes as low as 68º. The rainy seasons are not regular, but much rain falls from August to February: August, September, and October are hu ane months. The island is esteemed healthy at all times. Dews are unknown to any great extent, but are greatest at or near the full moon. Temperance and rising early, with regular gentle exercise, are the best means of pre- serving health. There is a respectable body of medical men, who have degrees from the College at Copenhagen, and some have studied at Edinburgh and elsewhere. ST. THOMAS. 215 Robert Comrie, Esq., manager of the Colonial Bank, is also agent for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. A Venezulean schooner receives the La Guayra, and other mails of the middle of the month, from Europe, at St. Thomas, and proceeds direct with them to La Guayra, returning again to St. Thomas. IMPORTS of St. Thomas, 1840. From Great Britain France Spain Italy Hamburg and Altona Flensburg Bremen Holland U. S. and British America Venezuela and New Granada.. British West India Islands French Spanish Danish Dutch Swedish Hayti.. Ships. 42 38 7 9 32 12 9 2 217 55 600 55 377 321 99 18 43 Tons. 9,208 6,944 520 1,288 5,890 2,265 1,432 306 30,279 4,642 9,923 2,311 11,981 13,637 3,148 569 1,813 Totals ...1,936 106,156 Besides a great number of Vessels neither landing nor re- ceiving goods, and being in that case free of Port Charges. ( 216 ) ST. JUAN'S, PORTO RICO. This island is a colony of Spain, lying between lat. 17° 55' and 18° 30' N., and long. 65° 40' and 67° 20' W., being in length 100 miles, and breadth 38 miles. A chain of mountains runs east and west throughout its extent, with branches diverging to the north and south. The whole are covered with wood; and in the intervals are fertile valleys and plains, watered by many rivulets, in the sands of which it is said gold-dust has been found. The highest summits of the mountains are called the Peaks of Layoonita; they are often covered with snow, and may be seen from a great distance. A vast quantity of cattle is reared and sent to other islands. Porto Rico has suffered much from hurricanes. The surface, which is finely diversified, is well watered and the soil is generally rich and fertile. There are few or no indigenous quadrupeds; and scarcely any of the feathered tribes to be found in the forests. The birds are few both in number and species; you may travel whole leagues without seeing a bird or even hearing a chirp. Almost all the other West India islands are infested with snakes and other noxious reptiles. Here there are none. But rats, of an enormous size, infest the island and do great injury to the sugar canes. The forests in the interior supply timber of the best quality both for ship and house building; and to prevent their decrease, the government has ordered ST. JUAN'S, PORTO RICO. 217 that three trees should be planted for each one cut down. A large proportion of the free inhabitants are coloured; but the law knows no distinction between the white and coloured returier; and this circum- stance, as well as the whites being in the habit of freely intermixing with the people of colour, has pre- vented the growth of those prejudices and antipathies that prevail between the white, black, and coloured population in the United States, and in the English and French islands. Mr. Turnbull says:—“The most remarkable fact connected with the history and the present state of . Porto Rico is, that the fields are cultivated, and sugar manufactured, by the hands of white men, under a tropical sun. It is very possible that this might never have occurred had not the island been treated as a penal settlement at an early period of its history. The convicts themselves were condemned to hard labour as a part of their punishment; and when the term of their sentence expired, they were compelled to continue it in order to obtain the means of sub- sistence.” The population in 1836, the last return published by the Board of Trade, was as follows:- Whites Free Mulattos Free Blacks Slaves 188,869 101,275 25,124 41,818 Total........357,086 Before the emancipation of the coloured race in Jamaica, the proportion between the white inhab- 218 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. itants and the rest of the population was nearly the reverse to that of Porto Rico. The town of St. Juan's is the capital, and is situated on the north side of the island, on a penin- sula joined to the main land by a narrow isthmus. The fortifications are very strong; the town, which stands on a pretty steep declivity, is well built, clean, and contains from 20,000 to 30,000 inhabitants. It is the residence of the Governor, and the see of a bishop. The harbour has a striking resemblance to Havana, and but little inferior. The steamer comes to within a mile of the custom- house wharf, where passengers are landed by shore- boats, at about one dollar each, with luggage. It is examined there, and no duty is charged on arti- cles that fairly come within the denomination of luggage. The current money is Macuquino, which is the original Spanish silver coin cut into quarters and eighths, much worn from age and use: it varies much in value. Passengers should take Spanish or Patriot gold or silver, which are recently exchangable for the above coin. The Colonial Bank is the only Bank in the island. There are two respectable hotels, the Hotel de Madrid, in the Plaza Principal, and the boarding- house, kept by Mrs. Storer, an English woman, in the Calle de los Cuarteles. The cost of living in either, is about a dollar and a half per day. Both have good water and are near the landing-place. Horses are exclusively used in the city and its neighbourhood. The charge for a saddle-horse is about 2 dollars per day. Very few wheel carriages are kept, and none can be hired. st. JUAN'S, PORTO RICO. 219 Passports are required both on landing and depart- ing. If landing and going into the interior, the charge is 1 dollar; if beyond seas, 4 dollars. They are obtained at the Secretary's office, and personal at- tendance is not always necessary. The stranger has, a few hours after arrival, to present himself at the Fortaleza, and produce a surety for good conduct while in the island. There are some good public buildings, including the bishop's palace and seminary, the royal military hos- pital with 350 beds, public gaol, house of correction, a handsome theatre, town-house with a magnificent public hall, several convents, &c. The government- house though old and sombre-looking has some fine apartments. They have also a library and reading- room; a casino, in which billiards and other games are played; and a coffee-house which is, to a certain extent, used as an exchange, and much frequented. The fortifications, which are perhaps as strong as any in the world, are generally the chief objects of interest to the stranger. There is also a public walk, where a military band plays frequently during the week. The country in the immediate neighbourhood of the city is uninteresting, but the interior is beauti- fully diversified, and the pasturage is very rich. A journey across the country is performed on horseback in about two days, at the expense of 30 dollars, including a guide. There are no carriage- roads in the interior. The houses of all classes in the country are usually built of wood. The windows have no glass, but are shut by sliding boards; so that when it rains, or when the wind blows with violence, the 220 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. family remains in darkness. There are no inns for travellers either in town or country. The Roman Catholic is the only form of worship tolerated. There is a cathedral and three other churches, The government is that of the old Spanish régime -military despotism. Porto Rico is governed by a Captain-General, whose authority is supreme in military affairs, and who is president of the royal audiencia for civil matters. There is a garrison of from 2500 to 3000 men in the city. The only steam communication with other ports is that afforded by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Com- pany. A monthly sailing packet arrives from Spain, carrying the mails, calling at St. Juan's on her way to Havana; the charge to which latter place, in the best cabin, is 50 dollars. The thermometer ranges from 75° to 85° in the winter, and 85° to 90° in the summer months, at mid-day in the shade. The rainy season is from July to December. The winter, which includes November, December, January, and February, is perhaps the most healthy for Europeans. The dews in the country are heavy, and it is desirable to avoid exposure to them. There are several Spanish physicians and one English. The latter, Dr. Thomas Armstrong, is a very skilful man, enjoying high repute, and has the best practice in the island. John Lindegren, Esq., is the British Consul newly appointed. R. D. Jacob, Esq. is the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's Agent at St. Juan's, Porto Rico. (221) ST. JACO DE CUBA Is the capital of the eastern department of the island of Cuba, and lies at the south-eastern shore of that island; it was the capital of Cuba till the beginning of the 18th century, when Havana was raised to that dignity. The high mountains behind St. Jago have been distinguished at a considerable distance from sea; indeed there is evidence that they have been seen from several points on the north side of Jamaica, or nearly 100 miles distant; and it has been remarked that this clearness of the atmosphere was a certain prognostication of a hurricane. These high lands are called the Cobre or Copper Mountains, about 11 miles from the town of St. Jago. The harbour of St. Jago is technically called a blind harbour, and sailing vessels must not attempt an entrance without a leading wind; a steamer, however, may make more bold, and enter at all times. The distance from Kingston to St. Jago is about 190 miles The steamer goes up to within half a mile of the town, and passengers are generally landed by shore-boats, for which the charge is regulated, by custom, at half a dollar for one person with luggage. Passengers’ luggage is visited by the custom-house officers on landing and embarking, at a guard-house distant a few paces from the landing place. Wearing apparel imported, and such articles as are generally conveyed in passengers' baggage, are not subject to duty. There is a small duty, 5 reals per mille, on cigars exported in luggage. 222 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The current money is Spanish and Mexican dollars and doubloons. Spanish doubloons are current at 17 dollars each; South American doubloons at 16 dollars each. There are no banks at this port. There are two good and well-conducted hotels; Madame Sausse's and Beranger's. They are both within a short distance of the landing place. The expense of living at either of these places is 2 dollars per day, including claret wine. Carriages are not to be had on hire; but saddle-horses or mules can be hired at about 4 dollars per day. Passengers arriving by steamer to remain, must be furnished with a passport, visé by the Spanish Consul, if given at a foreign place. But persons arriving and departing by the same steamer, are allowed to land without passports, on the commander pledging himself for them, which is done by word to the boarding officer. The object is to prevent the landing of Abolitionists. Besides the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's steamers, which afford a communication to all parts of the West Indies and to Europe, there is Spanish steamer, that arrives here the 7th and departs on the 14th of every month for Havana, touching at Manzanillo, Santa Cruz, Trinidad de Cuba, Cienfuegos, and Batabano, whence passengers proceed to Havana, overland by railroad, 42 miles. The whole passage is performed in 6 days, including landing and stoppages. Passage and fare in the cabin, for the whole voyage is 50 dollars; separate state rooms, containing two berths, 125 dollars. There is nothing worth visiting in the town, if we except the cathedral. It is a massive pile, built in the last century, on the same place where stood the a ST. JAGO DE CUBA. 223 first metropolitan temple, destroyed by the earth- quake of 1766. The danger from the same cause has induced the architect to reduce the proportion in height of the new cathedral, by which the graceful harmony of the whole is somewhat impaired. None but Catholic places of worship are permitted in the Island of Cuba. There are in St. Jago several primary schools for Spanish children: a seminary for young men preparing for the church; and two colleges, where the English, French, and Spanish languages are taught, with most other branches of education. They have a theatre, where the Spanish drama is sometimes represented. The city is garrisoned by two regiments of Spanish troops. The constitution of Spain does not extend to Cuba: it is under the government of the old Spanish régime. The average range of the thermometer in the shade is 84° in the summer, and 78° in the winter. The winter is from December to February, and is generally dry, with occasional drizzling rain, when the wind sets in from the north. It is the most healthy season. The dews are light, and there is no danger from them. The Port is well provided with medical men. Those in most repute are Drs. Forbes and Touvin. The most interesting place in the vicinity, is the village of Cobre, distant four leagues from town, where are rich copper mines, worked by British capitalists. Some of the specimens of the ore afford not less than 53 per cent. of pure metal. The or- dinary prodnce is not more than 27 per cent.; but 224 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. annum. even that proportion is so great as to ensure large profits to the proprietors in competing with the produce of our native mines in Cornwall, where 10, or even 8, per cent. is considered sufficient to afford a remunerating return. This competition could not be maintained if the produce of the Cuba mines did not reach 18, or at least 16 per cent., in con- sequence of the expense attending the working of the mines in a tropical climate, together with the heavy charges for freight, commission, and insurance. The average exports from these mines is 24,000 tons per In extent, magnitude of works, skill, and science with which they are carried on, they are scarcely surpassed by any in the world. A rail-road is forming, for bringing the ore direct from the mines to the point of embarkation in the Bay of St. Jago. It is expected to be completed in a few months. The recent history of this mine is somewhat re- markable. It was known that in the palmy days of Spanish greatness, the neighbouring mountains had been explored to a very considerable extent; and, indeed, the fact is sufficiently indicated by the very name of the town of Cobre, which is certainly not a place of modern origin. For more than a hundred years, however, the workings had been abandoned; and it was by mere accident some eight or ten years ago, that Mr. Hardy was induced, on visiting the neighbourhood for quite another purpose, to carry off some specimens of the refuse, thrown up from the old workings, in order to subject them to analysis. He had, in fact, been employed by his father, a man of large property, and now one of his partners in the mine, to visit the island in order to ascertain the ST. JAGO DE CUBA. 225 probability of recovering a mortgage debt, which he held over a neighbouring property. “In this country,” observes Mr. Turnbull, “ the happiest combination of capital, enterprise, and skill, is not sufficient to insure success in any si- milar undertaking. It was necessary, of course, either to effect a purchase of the soil, with its ac- cessorial rights, or to admit its proprietor into the secret, and allow him a reasonable proportion of the profits, arising from a discovery, which, even had he known it, he probably had not the means of fructifying. Another desideratum, not less in- dispensable, remained to be accomplished; and that was to obtain the consent of the government to exercise the privilege of mining, which, in the domi- nions of Her Catholic Majesty, is not arried, it seems, by the mere right of property in the soil. For this purpose, a vast deal of influence is required at head quarters; so great as to have made it neces- sary, or at least advisable, for the three individuals who alone were directly, or substantially, interested in the success of the undertaking—the discoverer, the capitalist, and the proprietor of the soil,—to admit a fourth person to an equal participation of the profits, from the mere fact of his possessing the necessary degree of influence at the Havana, or Madrid, to overcome the obstacles which would in- fallibly arise as soon as the enterprise presented any reasonable prospect of success. “Two powerful steam engines are at present em- ployed on the works, the chief duties of which are to stamp the mineral into a sort of coarse powder, when the richer part of the ore is separated from the refuse, 226 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. as well as that can be done by hand, with the aid of various mechanical contrivances. When in a state sufficiently pure for exportation, the ore is put into bags or baskets, and carried by beasts of burden a distance of twelve miles, to Santiago, at an average cost of about a dollar a hundred weight. The mule, the horse, and the camel, are the animals usually employed in this laborious operation; and it would be well for those of the nobler race, whether hybrid or pure, if they possessed the prudence or the instinct of the camel, which teaches it to lie down when overloaded, and refuse to proceed until its burden is so reduced as to make it compatible with its strength. The poor horse, however, and even the mule, stagger on to the last, under the excessive burdens which are heaped upon them, the average not being less than 224 English pounds." To the eastward of St. Jago rises the chain of mountains called the Sierra Maestra, where the best coffee properties are located, at from 4 to 10 leagues from town. The scenery is equal in grandeur and romantic interest to that of Port Royal, or Blue Mountains in Jamaica. There are no inns to accom- modate travellers; but such as have letters of intro- duction to the planters, are kindly and hospitably entertained by them. St. Jago is the most ancient city in Cuba, and the seat of an archbishop. It is 252 miles from Porto Principe, where the Real Audiencia, or Supreme Tribunal is held, as regards the eastern department of Cuba. Travellers to Porto Principe proceed on horses back; or they may go to Santa Cruz by steamer, where the distance by land to Porto Principe is 84 miles, ST. JAGO DE CUBA. 227 St. Jago is distant from Havana 702 miles. The Consul-General for Spain in London, Don J. M. Barrero, is also the Consul for Cuba; Messrs. Wright, Brooks, and Co. are the Agents for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company at St. Jago. Q 2 ( 228 ) SUB UMBRA FLOREO. BELIZE, HONDURAS. This possession of Great Britain, though one of considerable extent and importance, has not yet been dignified with the name of Colony. On one occasion it was expressly decided not to be entitled to the appellation of a territory belonging to His Majesty, at least so far as the Navigation Acts were concerned. (Chitty on Commerce, vol. 1, p. 636.) According to this decision ships built there would not be privi- leged to engage in the direct trade between the United Kingdom and the British possessions in America. The recent Navigation Acts have removed this dis- ability, and have in terms recognized the settlements at Honduras as “ British.” The 3 and 4 Wm. IV. c. 54, s. 14, expressly enacts “that all ships built in the British settlements at Honduras, and owned and navigated as British ships, shall be entitled to the BELIZE, HONDURAS, 231 principal inhabitants were chosen from amongst themselves as magistrates, who were invested with power and authority to hold courts of justice, and to try and determine all disputes. A jury of thirteen was chosen in the same manner for their assistance, and the determination of this court was declared to be final. They further covenanted together to abide by and obey all such orders and regulations as might there- after be made by the justices, in full council, being first approved of by a majority of the inhabitants ; and that the commanding officer for the time being of any of His Majesty's ships of war which might be sent thither, should have full power to enforce and put the above into execution. Regulations were at the same time agreed to respecting the levying and collection of taxes, the cutting of logwood, &c. &c. This code, which bears Sir William Burnaby's name, was printed at the expense of the settlement in 1809, with such additional regulations and al- terations of the original articles as had in the intermediate time been found necessary. The course which is generally pursued when an in- dividual of the community is desirous of introducing a new regulation which is to undergo the solemnity enactment,” is as follows:-Such individual causes a public notice or requisition to be posted at the court-house at Belize, calling a meeting of the magistrates and inhabitants of the place, on the particular day expressed in the notice, which it is understood must be stuck up at least twenty-one days before the day named for the meeting. On the arrival of the day appointed for the purpose, the magistrates and inhabitants assemble, when the pro- of an 232 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. position contained in the notice is discussed, and the majority of those present on the occasion determine the question ; after which, if the measure agreed to at the meeting receive the assent of the Superin- tendent, it is considered a law of the settlement, but not otherwise. In this anomalous state of things, it is a matter of considerable surprise that the meetings dignified with the name of courts should be conducted with a regularity and decorum which will bear no disad- vantageous comparison with the proceedings, in this respect, of the regularly constituted tribunals in the other colonies. The settlement at Honduras is governed by an officer styled a Superintendent, who is appointed by the Crown. A constitution, sanctioned by an officer in commission under His Majesty, framed many years ago, has been since, tacitly at least, recognized by the Crown, and is still acted upon ; and as a decisive mark of the subordination of the settlement to the power of this country, appeals are entertained by the Privy Council from the decisions of the courts in the settlement, one of which has been constituted by two acts of the British Parliament. The town of Belize, which is situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, is the only regular establishment which the English settlers have formed in this country. It is immediately open to the sea ; and, “though the situation is low, the groups of lofty cocoa-nut trees, with the thickly interspersed and lively foliage of the tamarind, con- tribute to give a very picturesque and pleasing effect to the dwellings of the inhabitants, independent of the advantage that is conferred by their grateful BELIZE, HONDURAS. 233 shade. Beyond Belize is an immense swamp, which extends many miles back ; it is overflowed during the rains, and in other seasons abounds with stagnant waters. The number of houses of all descriptions, contained in Belize, may be numbered at about 400. Many of these, particularly such as are owned by the opulent merchants, are spacious, commodious, and well-finished. They are built entirely of wood, and generally raised, 8 or 10 feet from the ground, on pillars of mahogany. The stores and offices are uniformly on the lower story; the dining and sleeping apartments on the upper. Every habitation has, likewise, its upper and lower piazzas, as indispensable appendages. Belize is defended by a fort, called Fort George, on an islet to the East. The town being situated as described, an inter- course with the interior country, by land, is extremely difficult; no road to it having been formed, travelling can, therefore, be performed only by water; an ex- tent, however, of 4 or 5 miles has been cut through the swamp, which, in fine weather, affords a pleasant ride on horseback; the sides of this road being lined profusely with a most agreeable variety of foliage. Mahogany of a proper size—hitherto the staple commodity of this place—if not now exhausted in the forests within the British limits, is only to be found in very inaccessible portions of the settlement, and in situations from whence it could not be brought out to make it remunerative. Under these circumstances, the attention of the inhabitants has been latterly turned to the cultivation of the soil, for the purpose of raising and exporting the various articles of tropical produce, for the growth of which the country is eminently adapted. The 234 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. position of the settlement is favourable for the intro- duction of British manufactures into central America. The Rio Hondo, the Belize river, the New river, the Siboon, and others, penetrate into the interior almost in parallel lines to each other, and except in one or two instances, are navigable by boats for 150 miles from their mouths. The public buildings of Belize consist of St. John's Church, erected in 1812; the Government House, commenced in 1814; the Honduras Free School, established in 1816; the Bridge across the river, begun in 1816, and finished in two years; the Court House, erected in 1819, in which year the Supreme Court was established by Act of Parliament. The population of the settlement amounts to about 8,000, of whom about 200 are white. The people of colour, of whom the population chiefly consists, are a fine race, and present a re- markable contrast to the slaves of Havana, being very far superior in form and features. They were all declared freemen on the 1st of August, 1838. The climate of this country is superior to that of the West India islands generally; and persons, whose health and constitutions have become impaired, from the effects of the latter, very frequently acquire a sud- den restoration of both after an arrival at Honduras. With the exception of a few months in the year, the land is constantly refreshed by regular sea-breezes, accompanied by an average of heat that may be taken at the temperature of 80°. The seasons have also their marked difference. The periodical rains which fall, and that are considered neither unseasonable nor extraordinary, might almost presage an approach- ing deluge, did they happen in some other parts of BELIZE, HONDURAS. 235 the world. But the wet-season, as it is emphatically denominated, is not considered here as the season of disease. It is fatally otherwise with the greater part of the West Indies. The most frequent and violent instances of sickness which occur at Honduras, happen during the dry season, which is usually comprehended within the months of April, May, and June. The sun, during this space, is always most powerful, and its scorching rays are not mitigated by the same uniformity of breeze that prevails during the other months of the year. At the beginning of October, the Norths, or North winds, commence, and gene- rally continue, with little variation, till the return of February or March. The domestic animals are such as are generally known in most parts of Europe. The pasturage afforded them being extensive and good: cattle, par- ticularly oxen and cows, thrive uncommonly well; and the latter supply a plentiful quantity of milk. Goats are found to succeed, in a most prolific degree. Fish abound in an extraordinary variety: but of the fisheries, the most profitable is that of the turtle. This forms an exclusive occupation, and the quantity taken is considerable. The taking of the species called the Hawksbill is particularly desirable, from the value which is affixed to its shell; this being, in Europe, of the sort that usually obtains the name of tortoiseshell. The people engaged in turtling are generally inhabitants of the different kays in the neighbourhood of Belize: but some have extended close to the Spanish settlements, where they remain without interruption. Of the baracouta and jew-fish, both exceedingly well-flavoured and firm, the former is often caught of sixty pounds weight, and the latter 236 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. of two hundred. The manati, or sea-cow is some- times taken on the coast, and in the neighbouring lagoons; its flesh, either fresh or salted, is considered a great delicacy. The weight of this sometimes ex- ceeds one thousand pounds. Amongst a great variety of fruits, which abound here, are included bananas, melons of several sorts, pine-apples in great variety, oranges of superior flavour, lemons, limes, shaddocks, mango, guava, mammee, chashaw-apple, tamarind, prickly pear, avocado pear, pomegranate, wild plums of many species, sea grape, &c. The grape of Ma- deira has been introduced, and is expected to be cultivated with success. The finely woven straw Panama hats may be pur- chased in Belize at a very low price. POPULATION, 1841. Males. Whites .. 200 Females. 35. Males. Females. Coloured......5,000 3,000. MILITIA. Artillery.. 1840. Infantry.. 1841. 1842. 765. 763. 705. 221. 221. 214. > Five private Schools in each year. SHIPPING. Inwards. 1840 1841 1842 Ships. 101 112 88 Tons. Outwards. 1840 21,863 | 1841 17,644 1842 Ships. Tons. 101 . no returns. 87 .... 17,231 BELIZE, HONDURAS. 237 The Course of Exchange between Great Britain and Hon- duras is fixed by custom at 40 per cent. The premium upon mercantile bills was about 19} per cent. in 1841. One NEWSPAPER is published at Belize :- Honduras Observer, Thursdays, by J. M. Daly. Esta- blished 1841. The Compensation for Slaves paid to Honduras, was £101,958 195. 7}d. (238) LA GUAYRA. The steamer of the 2nd of the month from England, conveys passengers and mails to Grenada, where one of the Royal Mail Company's schooners is in readi- ness to proceed to La Guayra and Porto Cabello. There is a communication also by the middle of the month from Grenada by steamer through the north- ern islands to St. Thomas, where the Venezuelan schooner meets the mails and conveys them to La Guayra. The return mails and passengers are by each conveyance brought up to St. Thomas, where they join the homeward-bound steamer. This schooner is a fine London river-built vessel, and has every accommodation for passengers. It carries no cargo, and therefore cannot be overloaded with goods as other vessels sometimes are. The distance from Grenada to La Guayra is 320 miles, and the time allowed, according to the Company's tables, is 31 days, or 4 miles per hour; but it will frequently be done in a much shorter time. La Guayra is the port of Caraccas, the capital of the Republic of Venezuela, and is situated on the northern coast of the continent of South America. It deserves the name of roadstead rather than port, as it is open to the north and east, and but slightly sheltered to the west by a long promontory of daz- zling whiteness, called Capo Blanco. M. Humboldt thus describes it: • The chain of mountains that separates the port from the high valley of Caraccas, descends almost directly into the sea; and the houses of the town LA GUAYRA. 239 are backed by a wall of steep rocks. There remains 100 to 140 toises breadth of flat ground between the wall and the ocean. The town has 6,000 to 8,000 inhabitants, and contains only two streets, running parallel to each other east and west. It is com- manded by the battery of Cerro Colorado; and its fortifications along the sea-side are well disposed and kept in repair. The aspect of this place has some- thing solitary and gloomy; we seemed not to be on a continent covered with vast forests, but in a rocky island destitute of mould and vegetation. With the exception of Cape Blanco and the cocoa-trees of Marqueta, no view meets the eye but that of the horizon, the sea, and the azure vault of heaven. The heat is stifling during the day, and most fre- quently during the night. The climate of La Guayra is justly considered as one of the most ardent on the globe; the sea-breeze is less felt, and the air is heated by the radiant caloric which the perpendicular rocks emit from the time the sun sets." This was written before the great earthquake of 1812, which destroyed both La Guayra and Ca- raccas; and La Guayra still presents the ruin and dilapidation consequent thereon. However, there is a beauty in the place; for the interior of the shat- tered walls are overgrown with weeds and shrubs, and the deserted ruins, covered with foliage, form some of the most romantic enclosures. Landing is sometimes attended with difficulty in consequence of the heavy rollers that break on the beach. When effected by shore-boats the boatmen exact as much as they can, but 1 dollar may sidered sufficient remuneration for landing with lug- gage, if not exceeding 250 lbs. be con- 240 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Luggage must be sent to the Custom-house for examination, but the search there is conducted with delicacy, and no unnecessary delay ensues. No articles of wearing apparel are subject to duty unless the quantity be excessive, and introduced with the object of trade. The Royal Mail Company's ships are exempt from visits of the custom-house officers. There are two banks at Caraccas, but none at La Guayra. There is no national coin. Accounts are kept in dollars and cents currency; exchange on London ranges from 6 dollars 25 cents, to 6 dollars 56 cents per pound sterling, for bills at the usual sight of 90 days. The Spanish and American dol- lars are worth i dollar 25 cents currency at par, but generally bear a premium of from 2 to 5 per cent. The doubloon is worth 20 dollars currency, and, like the dollar, bears a premium of from 2 to 5 per cent. The gold coins of England and France are not cur- rent, but the shilling is received as equal to 314 cents; and the five-franc piece to 1 dollar 25 cents. There are two hotels not far from the landing-place, called the Steam-boat, and Delfino's; the former English, and the latter Italian. The fare and accom- modations are respectable. The cost of living is about 1 dollar 25 cents currency per day, exclusive of wines or liquors, which are generally of inferior quality. The town is plentifully supplied with good water, conducted by iron pipes from a mountain stream at some distance. Both hotels are supplied with this water. Passengers arriving do not require passports, but are expected to report themselves at the office of the Gefe Politico, or chief magistrate : of residents, on leaving by sea, passports are required, but not of 242 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Gnayra as in other places within the tropics. The heaviest rains generally fall in September and Oc- tober, when the season breaks up. No season is considered particularly unhealthy; epidemics are remarkably rare. The coast of Venezuela is that of a country of which the soil is fertile in all the richest productions of the temperate and torrid zones. An American writer says, “The low plains produce in abundance sugar cane, coffee, cacao, tobacco, fine timber for ship building, valuable dye-woods, and medicinal plants of various kinds. The cacao of Caraccas is twice as valuable as that of the Antillas; the indigo is inferior to none but that of Guatemala ; the to- bacco is said to be worth as much again as the best Virginia or Maryland : the coffee would rival that of Mocha, if the same care were exercised in its pre- paration. The plains of Cumana, &c. are covered with immense herds of mules, oxen, and horses. Maize, wheat, and all the European plants and vegetables, are cultivated on the high plains, as successfully as in the Mexican States. The climate varies according to the elevation. On the coasts, and in the low country, it is hot and unhealthy ; but the temperature of the city of Leon de Caracas, which is about 3,400 feet above the level of the sea, is de- lightful throughout the year." « The soil here," as M. Humboldt remarks, "is rich in pasturage, where dairy-houses, built with reeds, are separated from each other by clumps of trees. The milk remains fresh when kept, not in calabashes, but in porous earthen vessels from Mani- quarez, which are used here. A prejudice prevalent in the countries of the north had long led me to believe >> 244 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. now become scarce, and approach men without at- tacking them. These animals are three or four feet long. We never met with them in the Manzanares, but with a great number of dolphins, which some- times ascend the river in the night, and frighten the bathers by spouting water. The Grand Ocean is not more calm and pacific on the coasts of Peru than the Sea of the Antillas from Puerto Cabello, and especially from Cape Codera, to the eastern point of Paria. The hurricanes of the West Indies are never felt in these regions, the vessels of which are without decks.” The only European physician is Dr. Freidensberg, who is much esteemed by the foreign residents. Messrs. Macrae, Pearce and Co., are the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company's Agents at La Guayra. 246 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. &c., obtain here as already described under the head of La Guayra. The seasons are the same, though the temperature is not so high. The only object of curiosity in the neighbourhood is the Agua Caliente, or hot springs, distant about 20 miles, which can be visited on horseback in the course of one day at the expense of about 10 dollars, including guide. The port itself is the best adapted for the residence of Europeans on arrival; but the surrounding country is by no means considered unhealthy. On ascending the Cordillera of mountains that runs parallel with the coast, the climate becomes temperate and de- licious within a few hours' ride. Four or five miles from the port there is a small village called St. Stephen, celebrated for the purity of its air and the agreeableness of its waters; and the climate through- out the year is cooler than at the port, being open to the cool airs that rush down from the hills through the valley, in which it is situated. Puerto Cabello is 130 miles distant from Caraccas, or 72 hours' journey: expense about 30 dollars. To Valencia 27 miles or 7 hours; to Valencia there are three posts weekly. Since the former edition of this “Guide,” the hotel accommodation has been somewhat improved in Puerto Cabello. The embarkation of live cattle to Jamaica, and hung beef to Havana, is a branch of commerce very lately commenced, and but now in its infancy. Cattle are worth 8 to 10 dollars each; expenses of embarking, &c., about 1 dollar, and freight about 12 dollars currency each head. The voyage to Ja- maica is generally performed in 4 to 5 days. No PUERTO CABELLO. 247 tonnage duty is charged in Porto Cabello on cattle vessels. This place is considered very healthy. It is sel- dom that fevers or epidemics prevail among the better classes; but after heavy rains, intermittent fevers and dysentery attack the lower orders, because of the want of suitable habitations and the proper means of subsistence. Sailors, and those who expose them- selves, are subject to attack; but this is generally owing to their own intemperance and excess in eating fruit. The clothing best adapted for this country is flannel or silk under vests, linen shirts and drawers, white drill pantaloons, and very light boots and shoes: linen jackets or coatees, fancy waistcoats, and white hats. Of shirts, under vests and pan- taloons, drawers and jackets, about two dozen of each would be quite sufficient. Boots and shoes made in this country are generally preferred; and in fact all articles of clothing can be obtained very rea- sonably. A couple of suits of cloth clothing are al- ways necessary. Messrs. Phelps and Evans are the Company's Agents at Puerto Cabello. SANTA MARTHA. 249 on examination, any articles are found that have not been worn, or that have the appearance of being brought for sale, if piece goods, they are charged from 25 to 33 per cent; and if apparel , the duty is nearly equal to the cost of the article. No duties are charged on exports; but there is a prohibition in the export of wrought silver and gold dust, which, if found in passengers’ luggage, would be confiscated. The current money is the coin of the republic, which is issued at a low standard, so that passengers bringing doubloons, old Spanish or Mexican dollars, will generally obtain a premium of 7 per cent. There are not any banks. Santa Martha does not boast a single hotel, and but a few lodging houses of a miserable description. Persons with letters of introduction generally live with those to whom they are addressed. The town is well supplied with good water. Carriages are not to be had on hire, but horses and mules are to be let in abundance. The Roman Catholic religion is the dominant one, and the public exercise of all others is prohibited. There is a very handsome cathedral and several churches: also two primary schools and a college for adults, in which the modern languages are taught, as also Greek and Latin. A fort, which is admirably situated for the defence of the bay, is seated on the summit of an almost perpendicular rock. There is also a small battery, now dismantled, on the level of the sea in front of the town. About 500 military are stationed in Santa Martha. The city is in the estate of New Grenada; the 252 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. The whole of the voyage is done by oars, and the Indians work with great patience and perseverance. The expenses just mentioned include all charges, for these poor people feed themselves. Each passenger should provide a sufficiency of light clothing, a large mackintosh and cloth cloak, a light moveable bed- stead, (as hammocks cannot be slung) with a thin leather-covered mattress, and the best quality Mus- quito net. The houses are miserable habitations, and it were best to sleep in the boat; the dews are very heavy. The traveller should also take his own can- teen with preserved provisions,-fowls and eggs may be had at the towns,—his own tea and coffee or chocolate, sugar, salt, &c. The cooking must be done on shore. They travel only by day. From Bogota to Santa Martha the journey is effected in 8 days, at the expense of about 50 dol- lars, as it is with the stream. The specie is thus brought down for shipment. Gold coin is the prin- cipal part of the exports, but emeralds and other precious stones are also forwarded. Gold dust is prohibited; and if taken, when attempted to be smuggled, is confiscated. But it is well known that very large quantities of gold dust are exported. The duty in coining is heavy, and the distance to the mint from where it is gathered, is a still greater ob- stacle. The Indians having the dust in charge for export have never been known to betray their trust. Only once within the last 20 years, has an instance occurred of gold dust, when attempted to be smug- gled, being seized in consequence of information; and this latter was by a degraded white man, who over- heard the Indian speaking of the treasure to his wife. It is gratifying to find that these untutored SANTA MARTHA. 253 children of nature are worthy of trust and confi- dence. It is the intention of the Government of New Grenada shortly to station a small steamer to ply between Santa Martha and Carthagena, and up the River Magdalena to Mompox and Honda. We have been favoured by Don R. de Ayala, Secretary to the Legation of New Grenada, in London, with the following statistics of Santa Martha and Carthagena. From 1st September, 1842, to 81st August, 1843. Imports—172 ships. 21,238 tons. Value of Cargoes 82,573,682 Exports. 8375,891 Population of the province of Santa Martha.. . 45,677 Town 4,411 There are in Santa Martha 68 Schools, with 1,103 Scholars a College, and Seminary. CARTHAGENA. 255 Since the war of independence, civilization has made considerable progress in Carthagena, and Eu- ropean fashions, with music and dancing, prevail. The harp and song are heard as in most of the civilized cities of Europe. The climate is very hot. From May to November is the rainy season. At this season there is an almost continual succession of thunder, rain, and tempests, so that the streets have the appearance of rivers. From December to April is the summer, when the heat is excessive. The latter part of the dry season is deemed the most unhealthy. Strangers are recom- mended not to sleep on shore. With this precaution, it has been remarked that a tea-spoonful of red bark, taken in a glass of port wine or other cordial at rising in the morning, has been considered an excellent preventative against fever. Yet the inhabitants enjoy good health and live even to 80 or 90 years of age. Passengers are landed by the steamer's boats. There are but few houses of entertainment; the charges are moderate. The Spanish and Mexican dollar and doubloon are current here as at Santa Martha. From 1st September, 1842, to 31st August, 1843. Imports—90 ships. 10,244 tons. Value of Cargoes 8765,376 Exports 81,212,698 Population of the province of Carthagena. . . . 142,000 Town 10,145 There are 116 Schools in Carthagena, with 2,000 Scholars, a College, University, Seminary, and a School for Marines. (256) CHACRES. The town of Chagres is a poor and miserable place, being formed of only a few thatched huts. It is very unhealthy, being situate in a little sandy bay, on the north side of the river, open only to the west wind, and bounded by woods to the south, a dark looking fortification to the north, and a swamp to the east, which is fed by springs that have no outlet. The inhabitants number about 1,000, and are chiefly black or coloured, with the exception of a few custom-house officers, and the commandant of the castle. There is a house, called an hotel, kept by Peter Eskildsen, who professes to use ' his utmost endeavours to facilitate to travellers all the conveni- ences that the country will permit of.' The river Chagres imparts a yellow colour to the sea, a distance of 8 miles from land. After issuing from the harbour and uniting with the sea-current, the stream seldom runs at a less rate, along the land to the northward and eastward, than one mile and a half in the hour. The entrance of the river has a a bar with not more than 13 feet over it. Large vessels therefore lie at anchor without, in the road. Travellers, on arriving at Chagres, can procure canoes, of which there are an abundance, and pro- ceed up the river without delay; for single passengers small canoes, or what are there termed cayucas, are preferable, on account of dispatch; beside the pas- senger, they will carry two trunks and a bed, which forms a mule load. If the luggage is excessive, a second cayuca should be taken. In the case of CHAGRES. 257 families or ladies, large canoes are necessary; awn- ings of plantain leaves are provided to protect the passengers from the sun and rain. Fowls, eggs, and fruit may be obtained from the cottages on the banks of the river. During the dry season, which commences in December, and terminates in June or July, the cayucas will reach Gorgona or Cruces in about eighteen hours, and large canoes in two days; but during the rains, and when the torrents com- mence, which are most violent in August, September, and October, double the time is necessary. The passage of the isthmus during the dry season is neither inconvenient nor unpleasant; the tempera- ture, though warm, is perfectly healthy, and there is always personal security. Specie is insured from Lima via Panama to London, including risk of the transit of the isthmus, in the London offices, at 30s. per cent. The river scenery is of the most beautiful descrip- tion, the trees overhanging from both sides. There are several villages, and at intervals, collections of cane huts, or a single hut, with an acre or two of cleared ground, where the grass grows round it with gardens of bananas, plantains, and maize. The boat will travel at the rate of six miles an hour with the stream, but against it the rate varies according to the strength of the stream, during either the rainy or dry season. The towns of Gorgona and Cruces are finely situated in elevated positions on the banks of the Chagre, and are remarkably healthy; the inhabitants are kind and hospitable, and ready to give passengers all the accommodation they possess at a trifling charge. s 258 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. There are two roads or mule paths to Panama, the one from Gorgona, and the other from Cruces; the former is somewhat longer, but in the dry season it is mostly a good galloping ground, and may be rode over easily in six or seven hours; during the rains it is muddy. The other road is broken, stony, and pre- cipitous, it was formerly paved, but being neglected, the stones are very annoying; the mules, however, are sure-footed and there is no danger; the Muleteers having their relations and friends at Cruces generally endeavour to persuade passengers to take this route in preference to that of Gorgona. Of the road from Cruces to Panama, Mr. Scarlett observes, “It was paved years ago by the Spaniards, since which it has been entirely abandoned to its fate, whilst the rains combined with a constant use of it, without repair, have worked numerous holes between the stones, so deep that for several miles at each step our horses were plunging up to their knees. Habit has enabled these animals to arrive in safety at the end of the journey, but not before the strength of the traveller is exhausted by fatigue. They manage in general neither to injure themselves, nor their burdens; but they can only accomplish the task by great care and patience. In some places the path is so narrow, as well as deep, that there is scarcely room for the rider to sit on his horse astride; his legs are exposed to be crushed by the rocks on either side; and in others we ascended or descended flights of rough steps, formed by an uneven pavement of natu- ral rocks, which it would puzzle any body, unaccus- tomed to the business, to find his way up and down even on foot, without a tumble. And all this through CHAGRES. 259 a thick mass of wood which, scarcely admitting light enough to make the track visible, increases the danger.” The passenger, arriving either at Cruces or Gor- gona, must give his first attention to procuring mules, but should he not find any, he must dispatch a mes- senger to Panama, and the following day they will be provided. It is always better to send the luggage forward five or six hours in advance, and should it arrive before the passenger it will be deposited in the Custom-house until the owner appears. In Panama good lodgings can always be procured; the inhabitants are kind and friendly; the city is healthy, built upon a promontory, and nearly sur- rounded by the sea. “I have seen nothing," writes Mr. Scarlett, “ex- cept Rio Harbour, equal in beauty to the situation of this Port. The city, which is walled, and has ramparts all round it, stands upon a tongue of land, washed on both sides by the Pacific, and from its numerous churches, stone houses with tiled roofs, and old architectural convents, with trees growing in the midst of some that are in ruins, it presents towards the sea, a very picturesque, and agreeable view. It is situated at the base of a range of soft green, undulating hills, which are covered with tro- pical woods, and form the foreground to a higher class of mountains, stretching like a barrier between the two oceans. The highest mountains, however, on the isthmus are never so lofty, as to be destitute of foliage, even to their summits. “The immediate neighbourhood of Panama is laid out in gardens, pasturage, and orchards, and there are a few villas which give it a polished air, and S 2 260 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. contrast prettily with the solemn grandeur of the forests beyond. These stretch entirely across the isthmus, in an unbroken mass, except at intervals, where the axe of the negro, has here and there cleared a space sufficient for the rude hut of some solitary family, whose habitation interrupts the uniformity of the sylvan scene.” The expence of travelling from ocean to ocean, with ordinary luggage, is as follows: Hire of Cayuca from Chagres to Cruces or Gorgona 810 0 One Luggage Mule from do. to Panama 0 One Saddle Mule do. 0 3 5 Or about £4 10 0 818 0 The voyage from Panama to Chagres usually occupies thirty hours, and the expense is about the same as that from Chagres to Panama. There are two small vessels constantly plying between Panama and Guayaquil or Payta, in which passengers can embark for Peru or Chile. ( 261 ) SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA. The province of Nicaragua extends from the Carib- bean Sea to the Pacific Ocean. It is a part of the Republic of Guatemala, in central America. The N. E. coast was discovered by Columbus in 1502. Most part was conquered by the Spaniards about 1524. Nicaragua takes its name from a powerful cacique, who was one of the first to enter into friendly relations with the Spaniards, and submit to baptism. Central America became independent in 1821, and was subsequently incorporated with Mexico; but on the fall of Iturbide, it disconnected itself from the Mexican republics, and was formed into a separate confederation in 1823. Since the declaration of inde- pendence, the country has been disturbed by frequent civil wars, but these have at present happily subsided. This magnificent country abounds with corn, fruits, and fine timber. The principal products are wax, tallow, tar, sugar, cochineal, and cacao. The noble lake in the interior adds greatly to the beauty of the country. This lake, or rather inland sea, is 120 miles in length, and 45 in breadth in its widest part, with- out narrowing at either end, and extends to within 20 miles of the Pacific. It is interspersed with islands some of which are of great height. On this inland sea the Spaniards formerly kept a brig of war of 14 guns, and several schooners or gun boats. An English merchant has also had a schooner of 40 tons trading upon the lake; and as a proof of the quantity of water in the River San Juan during the freshes, this schooner, which was built at Jamaica, was con- 262 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. veyed to the lake through the river by merely re- moving her keel, and replacing it when she arrived on the lake. The current of this river is so strong that the flat-bottomed boats, that navigate it, are five to six days in ascending and about 36 hours coming down. These boats are obliged to unload at three places in the river; and it is said that the fall from the lake to the sea is 130 feet. The river, which di- vides itself into three mouths as it falls into the At- lantic, is plentifully stocked with fish, particularly with the manatti or river cow, which is prepared in the same manner as corned beef, and is superior when served up in that way; when smoked it is pre- ferred to ham. The following is from the pen of an American tra- veller in 1835: “ The states of Central America are Costarica, Nicaragua, Honduras, Salvador, and Gua- temala. The seat of the general government is at St. Salvador, situate in the federal district, a circle of 20 miles in diameter, with a farther extension of 10 miles to the south, which includes the road of Libertad on the Pacific Ocean. The principal ports of the federation, in the Bay of Honduras, are Isabel, Omoa, and Truxillo; in the Caribbean Sea, San Juan de Nicaragua, Matina, and Boco del Toro, or Bocatoro ; and on the Pacific, Calderas, el Realejo, la Union, Libertad, Acajutla and Istapa. A central but not very elevated ridge, con- necting the Andes with the spinal range of the northern continent, extends through Central America, and from thence various navigable rivers have their sources, which run into the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras, the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. The volcanoes, which so remarkably stud the shore 264 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. for ever terminated; these have been very ruinous to the advance of Nicaragua and Salvador ; but the other three states are rapidly progressing in the career of good government, industry, and wealth: that of Guatemala, from the tranquillity it has for many years enjoyed, and the greater intelligence of its leading men, is most forward in the race of im- provement: in this state the Spanish laws have been entirely abolished. Education is fostered by every means, the greatest economy and good faith are observable in all the transactions of the government. The health and fertility of the country, and the tem- perate climate enjoyed at a short distance from the coast, offer additional inducements to these enter- prises. The nation has no foreign debt, and the custom- house duties are very moderate. 1 , | (265) PROJECTS FOR A CANAL COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS. This subject, one of old date, has been lately revived with greatly encreased interest. Several projects have been started, but we propose to review only those of which any reliable data exist. These are- THE ISTHMUS FROM. CHAGRES TO PANAMA, THE RIVER AND LAKE OF NICARAGUA, AND THE ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. CONSIDERABLE discussion has lately been held in our own and in the French press on this interesting question. The French ministers, also, have spoken in the Chambers upon it. M. Guizot states that in his own mind he has no doubt some day or other it will be effected; and with some warmth exclaims, so then the value of the French possessions in the Pacific would be greatly increased, and France would have many reasons to congratulate herself in the pos- ISTHMUS OF PANAMA. 267 facilities of this great undertaking. The Edinburgh Review, of 1810, in noticing Humboldt's works, just published, gave perhaps the earliest information on the subject, derived, it is supposed, from General Miranda, then a refugee in England, and one of the early sufferers in the South American revolution. The first and only survey of the Isthmus of Panama, that we have, was made by Mr. J. A. Lloyd, an Eng- lishman, in company with Colonel Falmark, a Swedish officer, both appointed by General Bolivar, to survey the Isthmus of Panama. An account of this survey with a chart, from which the accompanying map is reduced, appeared in the philosophical transactions of 1830; the original object of the commission was, as Mr. Lloyd states, “to ascertain in the most con- venient manner, the difference of level between the two seas.” The direct distance across the Isthmus from sea to sea is 29 geographical or 34 statute miles. The bar and river of Chagre, as we before stated under that head, are too shallow to answer for an outlet. Mr. Lloyd's project was to make a harbour, by forming a breakwater in Limon Bay, and cutting a canal across to the junction of the Gatun with the Chagre. To the confluence of the Trinidad and Chagre the water is deep, and the banks precipitous, and from this junction a canal was to run parallel with the lines marked as proposed railroads, either direct to Chorrera or with an inclination to follow the decline of the land, direct to Panama. The rise and fall of tides on the coast of Panama, are nearly 20 feet at full and change, and the greatest variation 27 feet. “Now this one fact,” concludes Mr. Lloyd, “gives such incalculable power to an engineer that 270 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. Mr. Lloyd on the Isthmus, and has frequently crossed it since. He fully concurs with Mr. Lloyd in the practicability of running either a canal or rail- road, and states in his observations communicated to to the Royal Geographical Society in February last, that a level line exists on the Isthmus, and that there is no height of consequence to be overcome in effecting a communication between the two oceans. “If we are not deceived,” says Mr. Wheelwright, “ the level is so complete that it would only be ne- cessary to have locks at either end of the canal, while its total length would not exceed thirty miles. The Chagres could be made its feeder, but the ele- vation of the Pacific (13365 feet) above the Atlantic, would I think render the canal entirely independent of any tributary streams. Both of the termini would require artificial harbours, or must be protected by breakwaters. No substantial difficulty exists on this point; when the work is undertaken, ways and means will soon be found for overcoming all minor obstacles. All, however, who are acquainted with the cir- cumstances of the country will, I think, admit, that before so vast an undertaking as the opening of a great ship-canal can be commenced it is absolutely necessary that a road be made as near the level line as possible, both with a view to ulterior labours, which such a road would greatly facilitate, and for the immediate establishment of an intercourse between the two oceans.” This plain and obvious work, however, seems entirely neglected during the distractions of the public mind in aiming at grand and mighty-almost impossible—objects, while the plain principle of 272 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. from ocean to ocean, would not exceed a few hours; Chagres (the town), would be altogether avoided, and passengers incur no risk from climate. Goods could be transported with celerity and ease, at a trifling expense.” THE RIVER SAN JUAN AND LAKE OF NICARAGUA. This is perhaps the first in date of the several pro- jects, and as yet we are without sufficient data on which to found a correct estimate. It is stated, indeed, that there exists a Spanish MS. in the archives at Guatemala, by Don M. Ga- listeo, who surveyed the country from the Lake Nicaragua to the Pacific in the year 1781. There are two projects on this line. One is, to connect the Port of Realejo, on the Pacific, with the Lake of Leon, which latter is said to join that of Nicaragua by a river; and the other project is, to join the Nicaragua Lake by a direct cut with the Gulf of Papagayo on the Pacific. The Lake of Leon is 35 miles long and 15 miles broad, and is said to be fit for ships of large size; and as it is of higher elevation above the Pacific than that of Nicaragua, it would serve as an upper basin for the supply of water required to feed a canal of large dimensions carried from the head of the lake into the Bay of Realejo. It is besides affirmed that a navigable river, called Tosta, flows only 12 miles from the Lake of Leon into the Pacific. The second project and more direct course, is from SAN JUAN AND LAKE OF NICARAGUA. 273 Nicaragua to the Gulf of Papagayo. It is stated that the distance from the Gulf of Papagayo is only 15% miles; and though the intervening country be laid down in many maps as mountainous, the greatest actual height of any part of it above the level of the lake is only 19 feet, as was proved by a series of 347 levels about 100 yards apart, taken in 1781. The difference of the level of the two oceans was ascer- tained by Humboldt, not to exceed 20, or at most 22 feet. An interesting paper on this subject by Jeremy Bentham, entitled Junctiana Proposal, dated June, 1822, appears for the first time in his collected works, edited by Dr. J. Bowring, M.P. On the faith of an American writer, Mr. William Davis Robinson, who published Memoirs of the Mexican Revolution, Mr. Bentham throws aside all the other various projects of canal communication, and adopts this as the one alone capable of execution. Mr. Bentham, quoting Mr. Robinson, states the sum of the advantages as follows:- “ Between both lakes and the Pacific the ground is a dead level.' In the Pacific Ocean depth of water not stated in figures, but said to be free from rocks and shoals; and on the Papagayo coast, the shore so bold that a frigate may anchor within a few yards of the beach.” But he also states that “ From the Atlantic into the Lake Nicaragua up the River San Juan large brigs and schooners sail.” We have previously (p. 262) stated that a schooner of 40 tons, built in Jamaica, was conveyed up the river to Nicaragua Lake, at the time of the freshes, by removing her keel. This is an extraordinary instance, however, T ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. 275 and describes fully that part of Mexico through which runs the River Coatzacoalcos. This river enters the Gulf of Mexico, 140 miles S. E. of the city of Vera Cruz, in 17° 8' 30" N. lat., and 94° 17' W. long. of Greenwich. There is a bar at the mouth, the shallowest part of which, however, is not less than 21 English feet; "and a North American pilot, who resides in the establishment of Mr. Baldwin, at Mina-titlan, assured us that he had many times crossed the bar, and that he had never found less water upon it than 21 English feet, equivalent to 6.4 metres. This account nearly agrees with our own observation, and confirms the old opinion that the bar does not shift, a circumstance easily explained, since the current of the river is slow, and the tides are almost imperceptible at its mouth.” The Coatzacoalcos is declared to be navigable for large ships to about 40 miles from its mouth, having a depth of 28 to 40 feet of water, after passing the bar. It is joined by several tributaries as it flows towards the sea, and has one shallow at the con- fluence at La Horqueta and two rapids considerably higher up; but at Horqueta, the branch called Brażo Mistan forms an island by which boats may evade this shallow, and proceed up to the junction of the River Malatengo, which is 163 kilometres, equal to 100 English miles, further than Horqueta. In this description the commission is confirmed by the reports of Senores Orbigozo and Ortiz who were appointed a commission to survey this isthmus jointly, by the state of Vera Cruz and the federal governments, in 1824. “The favourable and useful peculiarities of the Coatzacoalcos,” writes Senor Moro, the author of the work, and the Director and Chief of the Com- T2 ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. 277 to promise that whatever works may be necessary to give greater depth to the river will have a permanent result if they are well conceived and properly executed. The usual engines might be used, as well as the power of the river itself, by narrowing temporarily its bed more than necessary. This object might be effected by means of dikes constructed with solid piles, taking advantage for the purpose of the useful materials which nature herself offers profusely in the large trees and excellent clay that cover the banks of the river. In some parts of the upper course of the river it may perhaps be necessary to straighten its course, checking the increased current by means of a lock, and in others to construct solid embankments so as to limit the width of its bed; but any attempt to determine at present the number and magnitude of these works would only evince either want of good faith or presumptuous ignorance. To change the established course of a mighty river is one of the most delicate operations in hydraulics, and requires not only much skill and tact, but a careful study of local circumstances, which cannot be the result of a single inspection, but rather a series of assiduous preliminary labours. I cannot, however, look upon the difficulties as very great, for I am thoroughly convinced that they would be neither arduous nor expensive to overcome. The two most difficult points are the rapids of the old and the new Mal Paso, where the river runs upon a rocky bed; but these are of limited extent, and the many efficient means employed in similar cases are too well known to allow of much importance being attached to such obstacles. 278 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. With these two exceptions the remaining rapids are generally caused by shingle and sand-banks, and diminish gradually in number until they become very scarce below the river Jumuapa.” At the junction of the River Malatengo with the Coatzacoalcos, the course of the former river is fol- lowed to its confluence with the Chichihua, which also receives the River Tarifa; and the proposal of the commission is to join the Tarifa by a canal to the River Chicapa, which flows into the Pacific by the lake near Tehuantepec. This communication it is proposed to make navigable for boats at first, but ultimately to be applicable for the largest ships. In his estimate of expense, Senor Moro takes that of the Caledonian Canal as his guide, and cal- culates that the entire cost for completing his canal would be about 60 millions of francs. “ The Isthmus,” observes Senor Moro, “of Te- huantepec belongs to the Mexican Republic, and forms part of the departments of Oajaca and Vera Cruz. . According to the official reports, published by the Mexican Government in December 10, 1841, as a basis for the elections, the former department contains a population of 500,278 inhabitants, and the latter, 250,380. The boundaries of these two districts in this part of the Mexican territory are not yet definitively settled. The line of division is generally considered to coincide with the course of the River Sarabia, but this would only fix the limits on the left of the Coatzacoalcos, and by no means on the right. This want of a defined boundary is a natural conse- quence of the present state of the country. The two extremities of the isthmus are the only inhabited ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. 279 portions, and they are separated from each other by an immense forest of astonishing beauty, which, from the richness of its natural produce, contains evidently treasures of incalculable value, but which with its luxuriance conceals the aspect and form of the hitherto unexplored soil, on which it stands.” Robinson, an American writer, who is said to know the locality well, said: “ If, on a topographical survey of the isthmus, it shall be found practicable to cut a canal, there is no place where such an undertaking could be accom- plished with such ease, as in the province of Oajaca. In its boundaries are comprehended a great part of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Its salubrity is un- equalled on the American continent; even its shores on the Pacific Ocean appear exempted from the usual diseases which afflict the inhabitants of the Atlantic and South Sea coasts. “The population of Tehuantepec are among the most active and healthy race of Indians we have ever seen, and the cutting of a canal through such parts of the isthmus, as an accurate survey shall show to be fittest for that purpose, could be performed with the greatest facility by the inhabitants of Oajaca." These most important advantages were also appre- ciated by Mr. Michel Chevalier, who lately visited America, and who, speaking of the isthmus, in one of his recent publications (Revue des Deux Mondes, January 1st, 1844), says:- “The exploration of General Orbegozo, confirmed the presence of a magnificent vegetation in the isthmus, which proves the fertility of its soil. Even previous to the voyage of Humboldt, the beautiful forests of Tarifa had attracted the attention of the court of Spain. ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC. 283 ledged to be dangerous, a fact confirmed by the accounts of Humboldt and other writers. The fear of its unhealthiness was one of the causes that pre- vented the assembling of Congress there, after the emancipation of the states of Spanish America had been convened, in order to establish a system of general policy suited to the interests of the American nations. The same fear prevented the engineers, Lloyd and Falmarc, remaining in the isthmus a sufficient time to complete the labours of the explora- tion, which they undertook in 1827 and 1828, by order of General Bolivar, and in a succeeding expedi- tion Lloyd lost his life.* To this grievous cause is likewise to be ascribed the paucity of population and the want of the necessary means of existence in that isthmus, and as the climate does not permit the increase of the former, there is no possibility of augmenting the latter. The Isthmus of Panama is again being explored, but it has been lately estimated that even should the work be at all practicable its accomplishment would require the united efforts of the principal nations of the world and an expenditure of at least 200,000,000 of francs. The Isthmus of Nicaragua possesses a fertile terri- tory, a healthy climate, and is not deficient in popu- lation. Towards the north the Lake of Nicaragua communicates with the Atlantic by means of the mighty River St. John, and in the south only a small distance separates this lake from the coast of the Pacific. Thus the Isthmus of Nicaragua seems to offer many advantages; but upon a more minute • Not true. Mr. Lloyd was H. B. M. Surveyor-General in Mauritius, March, 1843. 256 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. better distributed. A climate remarkable for its salubrity favours also the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, and the departments of which it forms a part number a population of 750,000 inhabitants. The admirable fertility of the soil and the abund- ance of cattle and resources of all descriptions, would enable the vessels to renew their provisions at easy prices at the isthmus, therefore they might devote a greater portion of their hold to the storing of mer- chandise. Besides these purely local advantages, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec offers over those of Nicaragua and Panama others of a more general nature for naviga- tion, affording to vessels proceeding from Europe or the United States, which from their destination have not to descend to more meridianal latitudes, a com- munication more direct and through a more genial climate. On their return, vessels navigating the Pacific are now obliged to seek a northern latitude in order to escape the influence of the trade-winds, and for these also the course through the Isthmus of Tehuantepec would be much less circuitous. Lastly, the fresh but not dangerous north and north-easterly winds are common to the whole of the American isthmus, but Tehuantepec is not subject to the pro- tracted calms which at some seasons of the year paralyse navigation at Panama.” 288 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. A similar phenomenon took place in February, 1811, about half a league from the western extremity of the island of St. Michael. It seems to have been attended with nearly the usual symptoms; fire bursting from the sea, and ascending into the air like a host of sky-rockets, accompanied with vast volumes of smoke and showers of scoriæ and lava. The rocks, however, did not rise above the surface of the water, but appeared immediately under it, with the waves dashing furiously round them. The previous soundings are said to have been 80 fathoms. The steamer approaches Fayal, which, though not the largest of the group, has the safest roadstead. Mr. Bullar, in his “ Winter in the Azores,” thus describes the chief town of Fayal, called Villa de Horta: “ Its situation is the best that could have been chosen, both for commerce and natural beauty. The bay, besides being screened by high shores, has the island of Pico in front; which, acting as a break- water, secures the roadstead from southerly winds; while the more distant island of St. George's gives protection against gales from the north-west, and makes the harbour of Fayal a place of greater secu- rity than can probably be found in the other islands. In this respect its advantages, as far as commerce is concerned, are considerable, and in point of na- tural beauty it is equally fortunate. The town of Horta (or rather the city, for Don Pedro made a city of it), is built close to the shore. A long broad line of white chimneyless houses, among which churches, convents, and public buildings are con- spicuous, extends the breadth of the bay. Behind this line, the houses which form the outskirts of the city are built among orange gardens and evergreens; FAYAL. 289 1 1 beyond is the flat conical mountain into which the island rises, which, when we landed, was slightly shadowed by a canopy of clouds, and coloured bright by the warm afternoon sun, while in front of the city the water of the bay, which in the afternoon sun was so tender a blue that it almost seemed to have a bloom upon it, rolls up on a sweeping beach of dark grey sand, divided towards the centre hy a fort and landing steps, which project from the shore on a ridge of lava. On each side of the town, and of this sweeping beach, are the two bluff points of the bay. They rise high above the level of the town, and are richly covered with red and brown scoriæ and rough dark lava, upon which the sea, and weather are constantly acting;—the sea, by washing down the loose cinders and showing a fresh red surface; -and the weather, by staining the lava and watering the lichens." ' By the time we had made our observations, the visit-boats had boarded us and we were at liberty to land. Bewhiskered and mustachioed men in blue coats and brass buttons bowed and scraped upon the deck, disappeared below, rose again, bowed and scraped once more, smirked, went over the side and rowed ashore. These were some of the officials of Fayal who came to see that we were in proper health and that we had no contraband goods on board.” The steamer goes to within half a mile of the pier. There is no regulated charge for landing in shore- boats, but a Spanish dollar per trip is a fair charge for a small boat employed landing passengers and their luggage. All luggage is required to be taken to the Custom House for examination, but sometimes this examination takes place on the pier. No charge U 292 THE WEST INDIA GUIDE. another, wishing and thinking each was the last, (for the dull succession of hill upon hill, clothed only with rough grass, was without variety) when, without a moment's warning, we suddenly stopped on the precipitous edge of the crater. Hitherto there had been unvaried sunshine, and no tree or other object to cast a shadow; but now we suddenly saw beneath our feet an enormous valley, deeply sunk in the earth, the huge fissures, with which its almost perpendicular sides were cleft, being in deep shade, and the projecting ridges in bright light. At the bottom was a gloomy lake, over which one white sea-gull floated—the only living thing in that solitary place." “The Caldeira appears to be perfectly circular, and is a complete basin, the edge being regular, that is, as regular as these natural works ever are; not a mathematical circle, but a fine waving line. We were nearly an hour and a half in walking round its rim, and we thought it by far the most striking old crater we have yet seen in the islands." The island of Pico, with its peak and crater, is also well worthy of a visit. Mr. Bullar ascended it, but his vivid and beautiful description is too lengthy for our pages. Pico is a league and half from Fayal, and boats are constantly passing between the islands. is from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, and though no eruption has taken place from its crater within the memory of man, yet a hot vapour is perceptible. The ascent is difficult, the sides of the mountain being covered with loose black lava; but the view from the summit amply repays the traveller for his fatigue. The usual mode of making the ascent is to begin in the evening, and >> Its apex (294) FAREWELL-HOMEWARDS. In bidding farewell to the beautiful islands and oundless continents at which we have touched, we cannot do better than use once more the words of Mr. Coleridge, from whom we have gathered many beautiful descriptions previously. “ Beautiful islands! where the green Which nature wears, was never seen 'Neath zone of Europe; where the hue, Of sea and heaven, is such a blue As England dreams not; where the night Is all irradiate, with the light » Of stars like moons, which, hong on high, Breathe and quiver in the sky, Each its silver haze divine Flinging in a radiant line, O'er some gorgeous flower and mighty tree On the soft and shadowy seal Beautiful islands! brief the time I dwelt beneath your awful clime; Yet oft I see in noonday dream Your glorious stars with lunar beam; And oft before my sight arise Your sky-like seas, your sea-like skies, Your green banana's giant leaves, Your golden canes in arrowy sheaves, Your palms which never die, but stand Immortal sea-marks on the strand, Their feathery tufts, like plumage rare, Their stems so high, so strange and fair! Yea! while the breeze of England now Flings rose-scents on my aching brow, I think a moment I inhale Again the breath of tropic gale." And now, having left far behind us Bermuda and HOMEWARDS. 295 Fayal, and the sunny isles of the west, with their everlasting verdure and brilliant skies, the coldness, and thickening atmosphere, tell us that we are again approaching the rocky shores of England. What though her shores be dark and gloomy, and her airs cold and foggy, she has her happy firesides, and joy- ous faces clustering around them; the very keenness of the air is bracing and gives a freshening vigour to all life's pulses. Where on earth are such true friends, where dwells such honest freedom? Those only who have visited other peoples can fully appreciate the might of England's influence abroad: the influence of her free institutions, that are as watchwords to other nations; of her literature, which will last while language lasts; of her peaceful arts, more potent than the thunders of her cannon. England is our HOME. « She is the land of our pride and our love: the land of freedom and of glory; of bards and heroes, of statesmen, philoso- phers, and patriots; the land of Alfred and of Sydney, of Hampden and of Russel, of Shakspere, Newton, Locke, and Milton. O my country! May thy security, liberty, generosity, and peace, be eter- nal? May thy children prize their birthright, and well guard and extend their privileges! From the annals of thy renown, the deeds of thy worthies, the precious volumes of thy sages, may they imbibe the love of freedom, of virtue, of their country!” “ Land of my birth, oh Britain, and my love. Beauteous Isle, And plenteous! what though in thy atmosphere Float aot the taintless luxury of light, The dazzling azure of the Southern skies; ( 297 ) SOUTHAMPTON. On the arrival of the steam ship at Southampton, the Company's small steamer, Princess Victoria, now lands the passengers and baggage free of charge. The luggage is taken, under charge of a custom- house officer, to the baggage warehouse, where its examination takes place, the passengers being called according to the list delivered by the ship's clerk to the custom-house officers. Duty is charged on cigars and other foreign manu- factures. Passengers bringing home preserves or other arti- cles from a British colony, should bring a certificate of their produce from the customs at the port, when the article would be charged only the low duty. The baggage warehouse is open for the examina- tion of baggage from 6 o'clock A.M. to 8 o'clock P.M., from 25th of March to 20th of October; and from 8 A.m. to 8 P.M. during the remainder of the year, except on Sundays, on which days it is closed during the forenoon hours of divine service. SOUTHAMPTON is now the port of departure for the West India and Peninsular and Oriental steam packets. It possesses many local advantages. The sea comes up the very broad and deep sheet of water to the town, called Southampton Water. It has a jetty or pier from which passengers may embark at all times of tide; a dock lately opened; and the rail- way carries passengers to London in three hours. The historians of the town assume that it was here, where the quay now stands, that king Canute AZIN 10 Dتا HALL OF COMMERCE, AND GENERAL SUBSCRIPTION ROOMS, THREADNEEDLE STREET, LONDON, Conducted by the Proprietor under the following Gentlemen as a BOARD OF SUPERINTENDENCE. SIR GEORGE LARPENT, Bart., Chairman. JOHN CATTLEY, Esq., Deputy Chairman. LESLEY ALEXANDER, Esq. John George Behrends, Esq. John Alves ARBUTHNOT, Esq. JAMES BENTLEY, Esq. William BARDGETT, Esq. HENRY AUGUSTUS BEVAN, Esq. Thomas Baring, Esq., M.P. JAMES Blyth, Esq. 1 UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, H. R. H. PRINCE ALBERT, The Royal Family and Nobility, AND THE SEVERAL SOVEREIGNS AND COURTS THROUGHOUT EUROPE. ROWLAND'S MACASSAR OIL, Is a delightfully fragrant and transparent preparation for the hair ; and as an invigorator and beautifier, is beyond all precedent: it be- stows the most brilliant gloss, together with a strong tendency to curl, and is the only known specific capable of effectually sustaining the Hair in decorative charm, from the heat of crowded assemblies, or the effects of a damp atmosphere. Price 3s. 6d.—78.-Family Bottles (equal to 4 small), 10s. 6d., and double that size, 218, ROWLAND'S KALYDOR, Is an odoriferous creamy liquid—the only safe and efficacious pre- paration for dissipating Tan, Freckles, Pimples, Spots, and other Disfigurements of the Skin:-the radiant bloom it imparts to the Cheek, and the softness and delicacy it induces on the Hands, Arms, and Neck, render it INDISPENSABLE TO EVERY TOILET. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle, duty included. ROWLAND'S ODONTO, OR, PEARL DENTIFRICE. A WHITE POWDER, compounded of the rarest and most frag- rant exotics.-It bestows on the Teeth a Pearl-like Whiteness, frees them from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy, firmness, and to the Breath a grateful sweetness and perfume. Price 25. 9d. per bos duty included. CAUTION,-SPURIOUS IMITATIONS are frequently offered for sale, as the "genuine.” It is therefore imperative on Purchasers to see that the word “ROWLAND'S” is on the Wrapper of each article. For the protection of the public from fraud and imposition, the Honorable Commissioners of Her Majesty's Stamps have authorized the Proprietors' Signature to be engraved on the Government Stamp, thus A. Rowland and Son, 20, Hatton Garden, Which is affixed to the KALYDOR and ODONTO. ALL OTHERS ARE FRUADULENT COUNTERFEITS!!! BRIRIB VI WITHY.SE LUCE'S CASTLE HOTEL & TAVERN, SOUTHAMPTON. THE above Hotel is most eligibly situated for the embarkation and debarkation of Passengers, as it adjoins the Custom House, and is within three minutes drive of the Railway terminus. Every information afforded relative to the Packets for the East and West Indies, the Mediterranean, and all parts of the continent. Public and private conveyances in connexion with every Railway train, to and from London and South- ampton. J. B. LUCE returns his grateful acknowledgments for the patronage his establishment has hitherto re- ceived, and trusts by the strictest attention in every department to merit a continuance of the same. Castle Hotel, Southampton, August 1st, 1844. 1 August, 1844. OF THE A SELECTION OF THE PUBLICATIONS Society for Printing and Publishing the Writings of the HON. EMANUEL SWEDENBORG, INSTITUTED IN LONDON IN 1810, SOLD BY WM. NEWBERY, 6, KING STREET, HOLBORN. THE FOUR LEADING DOCTRINES OF THE NEW CHURCH, signified in Rev. xxi. by the New Jerusalem; being those respecting the Lord, His Divine and Human Natures, and the Divine Trinity : the Sacred Scripture; Faith ; and Life. With In- troductory Preface, and Account of the Author. Demy 8vo. 48, 6d.; foolscap, 38. ON THE NEW JERUSALEM AND ITS HEAVENLY DOC- TRINE, as revealed from Heaven; to which are prefixed some Ob- servations concerning the New Heaven and the New Earth. Demy 8vo. 18. 8d. 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Demy 8vo. 48. THE DELIGHTS OF WISDOM CONCERNING CONJU. GIAL LOVE. Demy 8vo. 58. CONCERNING HEAVEN AND ITS WONDERS, AND CONCERNING HELL; being a Relation of Things heard and seen. Demy 8vo. 48. AN ACCOUNT OF THE LAST JUDGMENT AND THE DESTRUCTION OF BABYLON. Demy 8vo. 18. Catalogues of the whole of Swedenborg's Works published by the Society, and Reports of the Society's proceedings, may be had of the Publisher, gratis. WATE DITUTI SOOTT'S CLOTHINC WAREHOUSE WITHY. Scott's Clothing warehouse, HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON, JAMAICA, Nearly opposite the Post Office, Planter's Bank, and Commercial Hotel. HATS AND SHOES, WOOLLEN & LINEN DRAPERY, and Hosiery of every description, CLOTHING Of very superior Quality and Style, made up at the most moderate Prices. ANDREW SCOTT. HER MAJESTY'S PERFUMERS. JOHN GOSNELL and Co., 160, Regent Street, and 12, Three King Court, Lombard Street, London, beg leave to recommend the following Elegancies for the Toilet, under the Patronage of Her MAJESTY, and most of the Illustrious Branches of the Royal Family: JOHN GOSNELL and Co.'s , ELEGANT TREBLE DISTILLED LAVENDER WATER, un- sophisticated with the sickly admixture of Musk, Am- bergris, &c.; is particularly adapted for sick or crowded rooms, and recommended to the admirers of the genuine Lavender Perfume; being the finest Lavender Flowers, distilled to a powerful Essence. JOHN GOSNELL and CO.'s FASHIONABLE PERFUMES: comprising, - VICTORIA BOUQUET, VEGETABLE ESSENCE, PRINCE Albert's BOUQUET, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS, Prince WALES' DITTO, New PERFUME, Princess's Ditto, CARNATION BOUQUET, ADELAIDE PERFUME, EAU DE PORTUGAL, ROYAL SOVEREIGN Ditto, PATCHOULI, &c., &c. LUXURY IN SHAVING. AMBROSIAL SHAVING CREAM, invented and prepared only by JOHN GOSNELL and CO. PATRONIZED BY PRINCE ALBERT. Price, in Pots, 2s. 60., 38. 6d., 5s., &c. JOHN GOSNELL and Co.'s JAMAICA and other POMATUMS admirably adapted for hot climates. J. GOSNELL & Co's Highly Scented VIOLET HAIR POWDER. Treble distilled ROSE WATER. ESSENCE of PEPPERMINT. ESSENCE of GINGER. MANUFACTURERS OF COMBS AND BRUSHES Of the best Quality, and on the most approved Principles. CAUTION.-John GOSNELL & Co. being the sole Proprietors, (by assignment) of the various long-established articles of their Pre- decessors, PRICE & GOSNELL, beg to put Purchasers on their guard against the numerous imitations, and to call particular attention to their address, 160, Regent Street, & 12, Three-King Court, Lombard Street, London. ARMY AND NAVY EQUIPMENTS. W. BUCKMASTER & Co., Tailors, 3, New Burlington Street, three doors from Regent Street, London, and 55, Dawson Street, Dublin. Instructions for taking Measure, wbich may be done with a piece of tape, and reduced into inches, stating the height of person, and if any peculiarity in figure; also, whether taken over a uniform or plain coat. COATS, VESTS, &c. Inches. Height and Length of Collar From bottom of Collar to Hip Buttons Hip Buttons to bottom of Skirt Centre of Back to Elbow Continued to length of Sleeve .......... Size round top of Arm Chest, over Coat....... Waist. over Coat.. under Coat 92 under Coat 9 91 Inches. TROWSERS. From top of Trowsers to bottom..... Fork to bottom of Trowsers. Size round top of Thigh (tight) Calf (tight) Size round Waist » Hips FOR HAT OR CAP. Inches. Size round Head..... N.B. Gentlemen who have not previously had an account with the house, will be pleased to make a re- ference to their Agents in London for payment, for which a discount will be allowed. > S. W. ROWSELL, 31, Cheapside, London, Account Book Manufacturer and Stationer, begs leave to request attention to his superior mode of manu- facturing Account Books, and to an extensive and well selected stock of general Stationery. The concern hav. ing been established as above for more than 33 years, will, he trusts, be a sufficient guarantee to those parties who may favour him with their commands, that their confidence would not be misplaced. H. J. & D. NICOLL, Tailors TO THE COURT, ARMY, AND NAVY, 114, REGENT STREET, LONDON. GEN ENTLEMEN are informed, that by forward- ing their Measure, or an old Suit of Clothes (pointing out any particular error), and enclosing a reference to their Agents in London for payment, that their orders will receive prompt attention ; or, on ap- plication by letter, their new Scale of Prices will be forwarded, which will shew that the utmost economy is observed, but at the same time every garment is made in the most correct taste and best materials. OFFICERS and OTHERS proceeding home or leaving this country can be completely furnished with every necessary portion of Uniform and Accoutrements, for which every convenience is offered by Ware Rooms expressly for that purpose adjoining the above fashion- able and extensive Premises. ON N NERVOUS DISEASES, originating from Morbid Derangement of the Liver, Stomach, &c., occasioning Low Spirits, Indigestion, Gout, and Asthma. Also on Disorders produced by Tropical Cli- mates upon European Constitutions : addressed equally to the juvalid, the public, and the profession. By George Robert Rowe, M.D., F.S.A., Member of the Royal College of Physicians, London; and of the Royal College of Surgeons, London, &c. Seventh Edition. Published by John CHURCHILL, Princes Street, London. Price 5s. Dr. Rowe may be consulted on Tuesdays and Fridays in Golden Square, London, and for the remainder of the week at Chigwell, Essex. EVANS & CO., Surgical Instrument Makers, No. 10, OLD CHANGE, ST. PAUL'S, LONDON, To the Honorable East India Company, the Army, NORTHAMPTON INFIRMARY, &c. &c. Where may be had the most improved Instruments of the newest construction, upon the most advantageous Terms. SEA SICKNESS.-THOMPSON'S REMEDY. THIS HIS REMEDY for SEA SICKNESS, when taken according to the Directions, is effectual in upwards of 90 cases in 100; is nearly tasteless, readily administered, and will retain its qualities in any climate for many years. It is prepared and sold in Boxes, price 2s. 9d.; and in Tin Cases, equal to six Boxes, at lls., by the Pro- prietors, Thomas Thompson and Son, Chemists, Liver- pool; by the following Agents : A. MORDAUNT, Chemist, Portland Street, Southampton ; W. EDWARDS, 67, St. Paul's, London; J. J. Jackson and Co., and Evans, Sons, and Co., Liverpool ; R. G. Kelly, Douglas, Isle of Man; Raimes, Duncan, and Co., and Baildon, Edinburgh ; the Apothe- caries' Company, Glasgow; W. Jackson, Dublin ; and by respectable Druggists in most seaports in the United Kingdom. Merchants & Captains supplied on very liberal terms. CHURCHER'S SHAVING CREAM, For Use IN PLACE OF SOAP AND WATER. THIS HIS is the best preparation for the purpose in existence—for delicate skins invaluable. Cool and exquisitely pleasant in use, it softens the beard, renders the action of the razor free and rapid, is the most portable article for a Gentleman's dressing case that can be devised, and saves the petty annoyances attending hot water and soap. It is applied by laying it smoothly over the beard with a small brush or sponge. Price, in glass jars, 2s. each ; or stoppered, 2s. 60. Sold by Mr. TrueFITT, 20 and 21, Burlington Arcade, London ; Mrs. MARQUIS, 1, Clarence Street, Cheltenham ; by Mr. HILLS, Perfumer, 175, High Street, Sole Agent for Southampton; AND BY THE PROPRIETOR, AT 22, KING STREET, REGENT STREET, LONDON. Just Published, large 8vo., 12s. cloth, lettered, A PRACTICASSUINTRO BUCTION 21:00 LIFE AND FIRE ASSURANCE, showing the method of calcu- lating the Values of Annuities, Reversionary Payments, Assurances, Endowments, Policies, Bonuses, Commutation of Bonases, &c., with numerous useful Tables ; together with a COMPREHENSIVE Digest of the distinctive features of all the Assurance Offices; and also a DESCRIPTION of Risks in FIRE INSURANCE, with numerous Clauses of Warrantry, Tables, and the Rates of Premium usually demanded by the most respectable Offices. By Thomas H, MILLAR, Accountant, Edinburgh. THE HUNDRED-WEIGHT FRACTION-BOOK; containing One Hundred and Twenty-five Tables, exhibiting, at a single view, the precise Value of each respective Weight, from One Pound to Three Quarters Twenty-seven Pounds, calculated from Two Shillings upward. To which are subjoined, Comparative Tables of Long and Short Weights : with Tables of Fish-Oils, Seed-Oils, Gallipoli or Olive Oils, and Spirits of Turpentine. By JOHN GAYNER, late Clerk to the Coalbrook-Dale Company. New Edition. Oblong. 5s. cloth lettered. GERMAN WRITING COPIES. Just Published, THE ART OF GERMAN WRITING EXEM- PLIFIED, in a Set of Easy Copies. For the use of Students in that Language. By. F. JORDAN. Oblong. Is. 6d. sewed. THE COMPLETE CORRESPONDENT; consist- ing of Original Letters, adapted to every Age and Situation in life, together with various forms of business and compliment, and the best directions for Writing Letters with ease, elegance, and correct- ness. To which are added, specimens of Real Correspondence, from the best Writers in the English Language, and Translations from the Latin and French. 12mo. 2s. 60. roan lettered ; 2s. sewed. Also, CROSBY’S LONDON UNIVERSAL LETTER WRITER; containing a variety of Letters, adapted to every Age and Situation in life. 18mo. Is. 6d. cloth lettered ; Is. sewed. LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co., Stationers'-HALL COURT. J. H. MOLLET, SHIP & INSURANCE BROKER, , General Commission and Forwarding AGENT, No. 33, HIGH STREET, SOUTHAMPTON. A Passengers are respectfully informed that he gives every information respecting the different Modes of Conveyance on the Continent, &c. FRENCH, DUTCH, & GERMAN TRANSLATED. Foreign Coin Exchanged. WALTON & MITCHELL, PRINTERS, 24, WARDOUR ST. . อ