: Gris Orlo Costumes, Mantles, Court Crains, e TROUSSEAUX, LAYETTES. Milline ry IDAME ATE EI 2 11&le, Dover Street, Piccadilo, VIDON, W. . Mulire &Macdonald Chromo-lithography Photo-lithography Show Cards, | Posters,Views, Maps&Plans, Portraits. Illustrated- Catalogues & Commercial & General Lithographing. Engraving & Printing, Die Sinking, Etc Etc. 97, QUEEN VICTORIA IS ONDON. E.C. 96990 MA kithographers, Engravers & Printers ito iter Majesty the Queen LONDON. 1851. LONDON, 1862 PARIS, 1867. SYDNEY, 1879. MELBOURNE, 1880. osales o wa జph.ornealod TURRET PRINTING WORKS: wo St DI MINYO M C С THESE FINE CHAMPAGNES ARE SUPPLIED AT MOST FIRST CLASS HOTELS,& ON BOARD THE PRINCIPAL LINES. THEY CAN BE OBTAINED THROUGH ANY WINE MERCHANT.. FICKUS COURTENAY& C. LONDON. T.HENRY KEIGWIN, SYDNEY. STEAMSHIPS OF THE ORIENT AND OTHER Wholesale Agents for GREAT BRITAIN, HAMPAGNES. Wholesale Agents for AUSTRALIA, AND~ AND FOR UNITED STATES; ANTHONY OECHS, NEW YORK. JONATHAN VINT & SONS, MELBOURNE. Maclure & Macdonald, Lith: Loudon ORIENT LINE GUIDE CHAPTERS FOR TRAVELLERS BY SEA AND BY LAND A NEW EDITION, REVISED AND FOR THE VOYAGE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND AUSTRALIA. W. J. LOFTIE, B.A., F.S.A., AUTHOR OF “A HISTORY OF LONDON,” ETC., ETC. SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTO PRICE FIVE SHILLINGS. CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. Melbourne, Sydney, Entered at Stationers' Hall.] (All Righi. Reservt. ILLUSTRATED. AUGMENTED, WITH MAPS AND PLANS EDITED FOR THE MANAGERS OF THE LINE BY I. London : RIVINGTON, GEORGE ROBERTSON Auckland, & COM 1885. Bany IC G Orle LIST IND IND ... . London: MACLURE & MACDONALD, Lithographers and Printers to Her Majesty, TURRET PRINTING OFFICES, 97, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, E.C 2 2014, 19-5:15 WITHDRAWN FROM, VICTORIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARY CONTENTS. MEANS OF COMMUNICATION NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS, AND CHARTS TO ADVERTISEMENTS LIST OF STANDARD BOOKS, GUIDE BOOKS, ETC. OFFICIAL GUIDE TO THE ORIENT LINE INDEX INDEX PREFACE. PAGES TO CONTENTS vii ai xiji . XV xix LIST OF AGENTS . LIST OF STEAMSHIPS xxii xxiv FOR TRAVELLERS CHAPTERS Part 1.-GENERAL INTRODUCTION. CHAPTER I. CHAPTER II. CHAPTE 1-21 . SEAMANSHIP. CHAPTER III. 21-33 NAVIGATION 34-58 PART II.-THE ROUTES. CHAPTER IV. THE CAPE ROUTE 59–69 CHAPTER V. THE SUEZ ROUTE 70-85 CHAPTER VI. 85-99 CHAPTER VII. UNDER THE SEA . UNIVERSAL Time CHAPTER VIII. 107 sal Il 5 THE WEATHER AT SEA CHAPTER IX. iv CONTENTS. PART III.—THE OLD WORLD (chiefly for Australians). CHAPTER X. THE MOTHER COUNTRY PAGES 127-139 . CHAPTER XI. ITALY 140-153 CHAPTER XII. XII. EUROPEAN CITIES 154-178 CHAPTER XIII. EGYPT 179-191 CHAPTER XIV. S.S. A S.S. Ci S.S. C S.S. G S.S. IT s.s. Il S.S. L S.S. L S.S. O s.s. P S.S. S SINAI AND THE HOLY LAND. 191–194 Part IV.—THE AUSTRALIAS (chiefly for those going out). 195–199 AN C S.S. A 200-209 CHAPTER XV. GENERAL ACCOUNT OF AUSTRALIA CHAPTER XVI. NEW SOUTH WALES. CHAPTER XVII. VICTORIA CHAPTER XVIII. SOUTH AUSTRALIA CHAPTER XIX. THE OTHER AUSTRALASIAN COLONIES, ETC. S.S. C S.S. L . 209–219 99 220-225 S.s. S.S. P S.S. S • 225-254 TOW PLYI NAP ITAI 9) ROP SYL MEI ADI NE! LEFFSBF si o tom NEW ZEALAND, MOUNT EGMONT List of Fllustrations. PLANS OF SHIPS. PAGE 4–278 12 94 214 214 24 250 24 214 172 . . (PROMENADE-DECK) MELBOURNE, COLLINS STREET ADELAIDE, KING WILLIAM STREET PAGES 7-139 0-153 S.S. AUSTRAL S.S. CHIMBORAZO S.S. CUZCO S.S. GARONNE.. J-191 S.S. IBERIA s.s. JOHN ELDER s.s. LIGURIA 1-194 s.s. LUSITANIA S.S. ORIENT S.S. POTOSI S.S. SORATA AN ORIENT LINER S.S. AUSTRAL CHIMBORAZO S.S. LIGURIA 219 S.S. ORIËNT S.S. POTOSI S.S. SORATA TOWER OF LONDON PLYMOUTH SOUND NAPLES BAY ITALY, THE FORUM THE CAPITO AMALFI FLORENCE VENICE LAGO MAGGIORE ROUEN SYDNEY, TOWN HALL . 188 1-199 PORTRAITS OF SHIPS. (PORTRAIT from a Painting by Frank BADEN Powell) (DRAWING ROOM) (PROMENADE-DECK) PORTRAIT) (PORTRAIT) 8 3-209 I IO S.S. SALOON) (PORTRAIT) (PORTRAIT) (PORTRAIT) 225 92 22 28 30 170 186 42 -254 VIEWS. HOE, WITH OLD EDDY'STONE LIGHTHOUSE. MITRE PEAK vi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. MAPS AND CHARTS. PAGE 108 114 194 O 58 . 140 178 150 118 200 240 226 230 66 220 THE WORLD ACCORDING TO THE ANCIENTS MERCATOR'S PROJECTION A'USTRALASIA BRITISH ISLES EUROPE EGYPT ITALY. INDIA NEW South Wales NEW ZEALAND QUEENSLAND South ÁFRICA SOUTH AUSTRALIA TASMANIA VICTORIA. WESTERN AUSTRALIA DISTANCE TABĽES PASSENGERS TRACK WIND AND CURRENT CHART STAR MAP, SORTHERN CONSTELLATIONS } NORTHERN SIGNS OF TŘE ZODIAC ZODIAC} SOUTHERN CH'A RT ''F THERMOMETER, OUTWARD, viâ "CAPE vià SUEZ HOMEWARD, vid SUEZ BAROMETER, OUTWARD, viả CAPE . 236 210 232 234 34 70 48 52 6 . INDEX TO CONTENTS. PAGE 108 Cape Colony, 67, 114 194 58 140 Cape route, 59 . 178 150 118 Cetaceans, 93 Ceylon, 106 • 200 . 240 226 230 66 220 236 • 210 Abyssinia, 75 Adam, tomb of, 106 Adelaide, 220 Aden, 72 Advantages of voyage, 2 Agulhas, Cape, 68 Air, 117 Akaba, 75 Albatross, &c., 89 Alexandria, 81 Anchors, 27 Animals, distribution of, 105 Annesley Bay, 74 Appetite, 6, 14 Arezzo, 166 Assisi, 164 Atlantis, 103 Atolls, 71, 105 Aurora, 125 Australia, 195 Bight of, 69 Charts, 36 . Charybdis , 81 Chronometer, 42 Cintra, 84 232 Cape de Verde Islands, 66 Captain, authority of, 19 Captain Cook, 196 Chagos Archipelago, 70, 105 Challenger, voyage of, 102 American Conference on Time, 112 Channel, Chops of, 62 Ascension, island of, 67 Climate in the Colonies, 199, 252 Discovery of, 196 Australia, South, extent, climate, productions, &c., Australia, Western, extent, climate, productions, &c., Azores, the, 63, 103 New Zealand, 240 Biscay, Bay of, 62, 102 Boolak Museum, 187 Bronzes, antique, 156 Prehistoric, 104 Diego Garcia, 70, 106 English, 60, 101 234 Fiji, 247 New Guinea, 250 New South Wales, 202 New Zealand, 241 Queensland, 226 South Australia, 223 Tasmania, 237 6 Victoria, 211 Western Australia, 235 Clothing, 12, 14, 81 Clouds, 124 Compass, 37 Conference on Time, 112 Convict settlement, 197, 233, 236 Consumption, 8 Corals, 105 Coral islands, 71 Cortona, 166 Egyptian, 183 Critias, of Plato, 103 Cross bearings, 46 Crossing the line, 66 Ocean, 87 Crustaceans, 96 Currents at sea, 40, 120 Bitter Lakes, 77 Cuttle-fish, 96 Bologna, 171 Cyclones, 121 Dante, 144 Botany Bay, 196 Darwinism, 99 Dead reckoning, 40 Deck chairs, 15 Bruno, 151 Departure, taking a, 34 Depression and elevation of land, 99 Deptford, 130 Fittings, II Depths of the sea, 102 Canary bird, 65 Isles, 64 Distances at sea, Cairo, 179 Divine service, 20 4 34 70 48 52 Region of, 106 220 232 Baggage, 12 Barometer, 6, 116 Beyrout, 194 Birds, coast, 86 Land, 86 Cabin accommodation, 10 47 viii INDEX TO CONTENTS. Helena, St., island of, 67 Herculaneum, 157 Hobart, 198 Holy Land, 191 Ismailia, 78, 181 Israelites, 181 Italy, 140 Archæology, 143 Art, 141 Commerce, 143 Discoverers, 145 Music, 143 Philosophers, 151 Reformers, 148 Revival of learning, 145 Women of, 147 Doldrums, 66 Donatello, 142 Dover, Shakespeare's Cliff, 101 Straits of, iol Eddystone lighthouse, 61 Egypt, 179, 183 Electric light, 55 Engines, ship's, 57 Entertainments, 7, 16 Etna, 81 European cities, 154 Evaporation, 6 Evelyn, John, 130 Eyre's journey, 69 Ferrara, 172 Finisterre, Cape, 62, 85, 102 Fish, 89 Brown trout, 239 Colonial, 253 Dolphin, 92 Flying-fish, 91 Rays and sharks, 89 Snock, 92 Swordfish, 92 Florence, 142, 150, 169 Food on board, 14 Fortunate Islands, 109 Francis, St., of Assisi, 164 Galileo, 151 Garofalo, 81 Genoa, 176 Germany, 177 Gibraltar, 83 Straits of, 83, 104 Goodwin Sands, 101 Gothard, St., Railway, 178 Gravesend, 59 Greece, 176 Greenwich, 129 Time, 114 Guide books, 155 Health, 5 Magdala Madeira Malayan Malta, 8 Marco F Masts, 2 Medical Mediter Medusa Niegara, Memph Meridia Messina Microsc Milan, Mineral NE Qu So Ta Vi Mocha, Mollus Monso Mothei Motior Murray Jaffa, 192 Jebel Teir, 74 Jelly Fish, 97 Jerusalem, 193 Jiddah, 75 Joseph, 181 Jubal, 75 Naples Natura Nauric Nautil Navig Needle New ( New E News Nile, M Nore, Kantarah, 79 Kerguelen's Island, 69 Kosseir, 75 Knots (nautical miles), 34 (ropes), 26 Land, making the, 45 Latitude, 34, 108 By observation, 42 Lead, 45 Leeuwin Cape, 70 Lemuria, 105 Lisbon, 84 Log, 39 London, 128 Bank of England, 133 Bridge, 132 Chiswick, 139 Companies, 132 Courts of justice, 135 Docks, 129 Edmonton, 138 Eltham, 137 Environs, 137 Great fire of, 133 Hampton Court, 139 Population, 131 Watling Street, 138 Westminster, 133 Longitude, 35, 107 By observation, 44 Luminosity of the sea, 97 | Lyonesse, 101 Occup Ocean Olives Ozone Appetite, 6, 14 Cheerfulness, 9 Clothing, 12, 81 Consumption, 8 Dyspepsia, 8 Exercise, 6, 16 Headache, 8 Indigestion, 7 Moonlight, sleeping in, 15 Neuralgia, 8, 15 Sea-sickness, 7 Spinal injury, ? Temperature, 6 Ventilation, 8 Wakefulness, 6 Padua Perin Peru: Peru Phos Phys Pisa, Plyn Pæst Pom INDEX TO CONTENTS. ix Steamer, description of, 9 247 Population, Fiji, Queensland, 228 222 Malta, 8 New South Wales, 202, 206 South Australia, Tasmania, 237 Portuguese men-of-war, 96 Primus meridianus, 108 Pulmonary complaints, 8 Red Sea, 73, 76, 105 Refrigerating machines, 57 Rome-Churches, excursions, &c., 159 Rule of the road at sea, 31 Extent, climate, productions, &c., 200-207 Newspaper Press in the Colonies, 254 Victoria, 213 Porpoises, 95 Port Jackson, 197 Port Said, So Portland Race, 60 Pumps, 58 Microscope Pyramids, 185 Milan, 174 Queensland, 198 Rain, 124 Rameses II., 18, Mocha, 74 Renaissance, 146 Molluscs, 96 Rigging, 22, 25 Rudder, 27 Alagdala, 75 Madeira, 63 Malayan Archipelago, 106 Marco Polo, 145 Medical advice, 5 Alediterranean, 81, 105 Nedusa, 97 Megara, wreck of, 69 Memphis, 187 Meridian, Prime, 108 Messina, 81 at sea, 95 Mineral wealth, New Guinca, 245 New South Wales, 204 Queensland, 229 South Australia, 220-223 Tasmania, 239 Victoria, 214 Monsoons, 119, 121 Mother Country, 127 Motion of the ship, 23 Murray River, 200 Savonarola, 150 21 Naples, 82, 156 Natural history at sea, 85 Nautical terms, 21 Nautilus, 96 Navigation, 21, 34 Needles, the, 60 New Guinea, 106, 248 New South Wales, 198, 200 Sailing, 22 Sails, 23 Scylla, 81 Seamanship, Sea-sickness, 7 Sea-weed, 99 Serpent-worship, 104 Sextant, 41 Shepherd kings, 181 Siena, 167 Sierra Nevada, 82 Signals, 31 Sinai, 75, 191 Sky, colours of, 125 Socotra, 70, 105 Somalis, 73 Souakim, 75 South Australia, 198 Nile, 183 Mouths of the, 81 Nore, the, 60 Occupation on board, 16, 19 Ocean, Southern, 69 Olives, Mount of, 193 Ozone, 6, 14, 126, 202 Extent, climate, productions, &c., 220 Spain, 178 Speed, 1 Sport in Colonies, 252, 253 Sphinx, 187 Padua, 172 Perim, 73 Perugia, 164 Perugino, 166 Phosphorescence, 97 Physalia, 96 Pisa, 168 Plymouth, 61 Pæstum, 158 Pompeii, 157 Squalls, 123 Stars, 47-59, 66 Sturt, Captain, 199 Suez, 75, 76, ISO Canal, 77 Route, 70 X INDEX TO CONTENTS. Venice, 172 Verona, 173 Victoria-Extent, climate, productions, &c., 209 Vincent, Cape St., 66, 109 . Table Bay, 67 Tasmania, 236 Tel-el-Kebeer, 78, 181 Temperature, 6 Teneriffe, 6 Thames Tunnel, 130 Thermometer, 117 Tilbury docks, 100 Fort, 59 Time, astronomical, III Equation of, 44 Marked by bells, 30 Ordinary, 110 Reckoning, 35 Sidereal, 110 Universal, 107 Variation in, 114 Timsah, Lake, 78, 80, 181 Tower of London, 131 Trafalgar, 84 Tropics, 65 Turin, 175 Turtles, 98 Van Diemen's Land, 198 Extent, climate, productions, &c., 236 Waldenses, 15! Watches and clocks, 113 Waves, 59 Weather at sea, 115, 124 Western Australia, 198 Extent, climate, productions, &c., 232 Whales, 94 Whist, 18 Winds, 118, 124 Charts, 115 S.E. Trades, 66 Wines, of Australia, 213 Wren, Sir C., 134 Abbc Amo Ang! Ang Aplii Arg Arm Atta Ben: Bett Blyt Bris Bro: Zagazig, 182 Zemba, 75 Zodiacal light, 124 Zoophytes, 96 Call Cen Chil Clar Coll Colc Cor: Colo Dav De 1 Din Dix: Dun East Edy Eur For Fos Gra Hot Hot Но Но Iso Lai Lai . ma Colonial Bank of New Zealand Eastern Telegraph Company (with Map) ADVERTISEMENTS. INDEX TO PAGE 264 London Naples Egypt . . (Stockbrokers) (Statuary, C.) (Bank). (Newspaper) (Merchanis) (Newspapir) Hotel) 286 289 257 301 . 268 269 292 Queensland Melbourne London Port Said London London London (Lace). 259 Abbott, Page & Co.. Amodio, Mr. . Anglo- Egyptian Banking Company Anglo-New Zealander Aplin, Brown, & Co. Argus, &c. Army and Navy Hotel. Attard & Vella . Benson & Co., J. Betts & Co., Limited Blyth & Sons Brisbane Newspaper Company Broadbent, R. Callaghan & Son Central Station Hotel . Chillingworth & Sons, W. Clark & Co., Edgar · Collard & Collard 28 1 27 1 299 290 . Port Said. . Sydney Glasgow London London London 296 258 265 266 255 284 304 283 Corser & Co.. Colonies & India . (Trunks) (Capsules) (Furniture) (Newspapers) (Ships' Stores) (Boots). Hotel) Wines) (Furniture) Pianos) Bank) (Merchants) (Newspaper) (Iron Works) (Coral, &-c.) (11 agnesia) (Tobacco) Champagne) (Telegraph) (Draperies) (Newspaper) (Draperies) Ironmongery) (Hotel) 278 Maryboro' London. Wolverhampton · Naples London Sydney London . Davies, Brothers & Co. De Caro, A. Dinneford & Co. Dixson & Sons. Duminy & Co. 286 259 296 . . Face Title . 280 305 282 . Brisbanc London Edwards & Chapman European Mail . . 303 299 . . . Forsyth & Co., J. Foster & Kelk Brisbane Brisbane . 287 . Grand Hotel 290 288 : (Hotel) (Hotel) (Hotel) Hotels 291 288 · Naples : Port Said . Naples : Alexandria Naples : Italy Hotel du Louvre Hotel Grande Bretagne Hotel Khedivial Hotel Royal . Isotta, Brothers . . . (Hotels) (Pyretic Saline) . (Decorators) . Lamplough’s Pyretic Saline Lang & Co., J. . London Brisbane xii INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 01 PAGE . . . . . . . . Liebig's Extract of Meat . London Lincoln & Bennett London London & South Western Railway Company Macbrair, Osborn & Co. . Sydney. Mackilligin & Co., R. M. London Maclure & Macdonald London Mercantile Bank of Sydney Metzler & Co. London Moore & Hunton . London Morehead & Co., B. D. Brisbane Morse's Hotel Brisbane Mount Pleasant Hotel Plymouth (Extract of Meat). 308 (Hats). 262 (Railway) 276 (Hardware) 294 (Wines). . mies, 274 (Lithographers) Inside Cover (Bank) 293 (Organs). 309 (Furniture) 306—7 (Merchants) 297 (Hotel) 303 (Hotel) 281 . . Early Dam Voya Histo Voya Journ Cultu Geol . . . . . . Neilson, R. D.. New Zealand Government Brisbane . . (Merchant) . 300 260 . Brisbane London Port Said (Hotel) · (Furniture) (Coal Company) . . . 300 273 292 . . . . Queensland. 267 ..298 (Shipping Company) . . . . . . Palace Family Hotel Peters & Co., G. D. Port Said & Suez Coal Company Queensland Government, Queensland Steam Shipping Company Reynolds's Gout Specific Ross, Munro, & Co. Royal Hotel Rylands & Sons, Limited Savory & Moore Shepheard's Hotel Smee, W. & A.. South Eastern Railway Company Thompson & Boult . Tuttle & Co. London Port Said Plymouth London (Gout Medicine) (Ships' Stores) (Hotel) (Draperies) 256 289 283 279 . . . . . . . O London Cairo London . . (Chemists) (Hotel) (Furniture) (Railway) 277 291 272 275 . . . . *252 . . London Sydney . . . 295 Expe Sout] Jouri Expe Narr Aust My 1 Aust Ban! Bust Quet Five Jour Vict A V: Aust Exp Min Rem Aust Hist Aus Min Har Vic AV Cui Foi Em Au Au My Au Dc Hi AC (Patent Agents) (Photographers) (Bank) (Insurance). (Whiskey) Union Bank of Australia United Insurance Company . 285 293 . Sydney . London 266 . . Vaughan-Jones, E. Westminster Palace Hotel . Walsh & Brierley . . • London London . . (Hotel) 263 Umbrellas, Braces, &c.) 270 LIST OF STANDARD BOOKS ON AUSTRALIA, EGYPT, AND ITALY. AUSTRALIA. Hakluyt Soc. Pub. 1859. 1699-1701. 1721, 1846. 1843. Early Voyages to Terra Australis. Edited by R. H. Major. Hakluyt Dampier s Account of New Holland. Voyage to New Holland by W. Dampier. History of the Expedition of Three Ships to Terra Australis. Voyage to Terra Australis in 1801-3, &c., by M. Flinders. 1814. Journals of Two Expeditions in N.W. and W. Australia, by Sir Culture of the Grape Vine and Orange in Australia, by G. Sutton. 1843. Geological Observations, together with Notices on the Geology of Australia, by C. Darwin Expeditions into Central Australia, &c., by E. J. Eyre. 1845. South Australia and its Mines, by F. Dutton. Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia, 1844-1845, by L. Leichhardt. Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia, by Sir T. L. Mitchell. Narrative of an Expedition into Central Australia, by C. Sturt. 1849. Australian Gatherings of a Naturalist, by G. Bennett. 1860. Australian Social Life and Manners. 1861. Banks and Banking in Australia. 1861. Bush Life in Australia, by H. W. Haggarth. Queensland, Australia, by J. D. Lang. Five Years in South Australia, by R. Harrison. 1862. Journal of N.W. Australian Exploring Expedition, by F. T. Gregory. Victorian Geological Survey, by A. R. C. Selwyn. 1862. A Vacation Tour through Queensland, by B. A. Heywood. 1863. Australian (Tropical) Handbook, by G. W. Earle. 1863. Explorations across the Continent of Australia, by J. M'D. Stuart. Mines of South Australia, by J. B. Austin. 1863. Remarkable Discoveries in Central Australia, by T. Locke. 1863. Australian Discovery and Exploration, by J. Woods. 1865. History and Discovery of Australia, by W. Howitt. 1866. Mineral Statistics of Victoria. 1868. Handbook of the Colony of Victoria, by F. Algar. Victoria's Gold and Mineral Districts, by Smyth. 1869. A Visit to Queensland, by C, H. Allen. 1870. Curious Australian Facts, by T. Bonwick. 1870. Four Years in Queensland, by E. B. Kennedy. 1870. Emigrant's Guide to Australia, by J. Baird. 1871. Australian Handbook, Almanac, and Shippers' Directory. Australian Settler and the Savage, by Mrs. E. Millett. My Wife and I in Queensland, by C. H. Eden. 1872. (th F.citd) Australia and New Zealand, by Anthony Trollope. Dominion of Australie by W. H. L. Ranken. 1873. Historical and Statistical Account of New South Wales, by J. D. Lan Across the Western Interior of Australia, by Colonel Egerton - Wszburton Vol. XXV. Vol. xi. J. Harris. Vol. i. &c. George Grey. IS41. 1844. I847. 1862. 1233 1869. Gordon's, 1077 1972. 1575. 1860. My Experience in Australia, by a Lady. 1861. 1861. Australia as it is. 1867. 1873. xiv LIST OF STANDARD BOOKS. Hare's Cities of Italy. 2 Vols. 1883. What he saw in Australia, by R. and F. Hill. 1875. Sketches of Australian Life and Scenery, by a Thirty Years' Resident. 1876. South Australia ; its History, Resources, and Productions, by W. Harcus. 1876. The Fifth Continent, by C. H. Eden. 1877. Our Australian Cousins, by Jas. Inglis. 1880. Recollections of Travel in New Zealand and Australia, by Jas. C. Crawford. 1880. A Glance at Australia in 1880 ; or, Food from the South, by H. Mortimer Franklyn. 1881. Australia and New Zealand, by S. W. Silver. (3rd Edit.) 1881. Australian Aborigines, Language, &c., by J. Dawson. 1881. Australian Grazier's Guide, Silver's. 1879 and 1881. Australia's Heroes, by C. H. Eden. (4th Edit.) 1882. Port Phillip Settlement, by Jas. Bonwick. 1883. Australian Handbook, by Messrs. Gordon and Gotch. Yearly. Statesman's Year Book, by F. Martin. 1884. Australasia, by A. R. Wallace, with Ethnological Appendix by A. H. Keane. (2nd Edit.) 1883. The King Country, by J. H. Kerry-Nicholls. 1884 Letters to Guy, by Lady Barker. 1885. EGYPT Murray's Handbook, Egypt and Sinai. 2 vols. 1880. Bædecker's Lower Egypt and Sinai. 1878. The Egypt of the Past, by Sir Erasmus Wilson. (2nd Edit.) 1882. Egyptian Sepulchres and Syrian Shrines, by Viscountess Strangford. 1874. Egypt from the Monuments, by S. Birch. History of Egypt, by Dr. Brugsch. 2 Vols. 1880. The Ancient Egyptians, by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson. 3 Vols. 1878. Lane's Modern Egyptians. 2 Vols. 1871. A Thousand Miles up the Nile, by Amelia B. Edwards. 1877. A Ride in Egypt, by W. J. Loftie. 1879. Letters from Egypt, by Lady Duff Gordon. 1866, 1875. Eöthen, by A. W. Kinglake. Eastern Life, by Harriet Martineau. 1875. ITALY. Murray's Handbooks-comprising North Italy, Central Italy, Rome and its Environs, South Italy, the Italian Schools of Painting. 5 Vols. Bædecker's Handbook. 3 Vols. Ruskin's Stones of Venice. *Grimm's Life of Michael Angelo. Hare's Walks in Rome. 2 Vols. 1883. Romola, by George Eliot. Sismondi's Italian Republics. Whiteside's Italy in the Nineteenth Century. 1860. Symonds's History of the Renaissance in Italy. 1881. Twining's Symbols and Emblems of Early Christian Art, 1885. alluded to it in a a new world to PRE FACE TO THE It was a theory of ancient geographers that continents balanced each other, The search for America was undertaken with this idea ; and George Canning well-known speech, in which he summoned redress the balance of the old.” But neither he nor those who went before him could have anticipated that within half a century from his day the remote island beneath their feet, should afford a home to a colony which already numbers of them of British birth or descent: nor time should come, and come so soon, when there would be few among us without a relative or at least a friend dwelling in now is can best be attained by a reference to comparative statistics. The revenue annually raised by the Australian colonies alone already equals that of Sweden, Norway, Portugal, Switzerland, Denmark, and Greece, put together. A hundred millions sterling is annually paid for imports, and exports to a like amount are sent to Europe. The railways of Australia have already cost more than forty millions of money. Two thousand tons of gold have been discovered, the value of which cannot be less than three hundred millions. amount of wool exported to England is twenty-eight times as much as the continent of Europe. Australia in the past few years, SECOND EDITION. three million inhabitants, almost all what was then supposed to be a frightful wilderness, inhabited by the lowest so far been discovered. An idea of what Australia The that we receive from demonstrate at once the progress made of New Holland, as they called it, the antipodes, the region which lay as it were race of savages that had these Such figures as made by xvi PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. t " t i ܫܬܚ arrangements have been completed while this volume was passing through although it was so far back as January, 1788, that the first English settlers landed at Botany Bay, it was not until the discovery of gold in 1851 that any large number of emigrants were attracted to these colonies. The changed circumstances of Australia have naturally taxed to the utmost the means of communication with the mother country. The raw material must come home for manufacture. The workshops of England are employed on the productions of her colonies. Besides merchandise, there are passengers to be carried. The demand for labour increases, the call for more settlers becomes louder, thousands of wealthy colonists desire to visit the cradle of their race, the necessity for frequent interchanges of communication is more and more urgent day by day. Twelve thousand miles of ocean have to be traversed. In former ages such a gulf fixed between England and Australia would have rendered commercial intercourse impossible; but enterprise with science as its servant has been able to abridge even this enormous distance. We can reach Australia in a third of the time which even thirty years ago was consumed on the voyage. Ocean steamers are rapidly superseding the clippers, so famous in their day, and instead of the ninety days' “imprisonment with a chance of being drowned,” which used to be the lot of the Australian traveller, he has now a month in a floating hotel, which carries him through some of the most beautiful and interesting scenery in the world, and so alters the aspect of a voyage that seldom indeed does he fail to be sorry when it is over. special object of the Managers of the Orient Line is to increase the facilities for this interchange of communication, and to promote the safety, and, it may be added, pleasure of the passage. They are under contract with the governments of New South Wales and South Australia to convey the mails fortnightly between England and Australia by way of Suez, and also run occasional steamers by the Cape of Good Hope. These The speed, xvii the press. sh settlers with an that any he utmost afforded variety which trial must way. ed on the PIs to be becomes race, the re argent PREFACE TO THE Since the Line was opened in June, 1877, upwards of one hundred thousand passengers have been immunity from accident to life or limb. It cannot be doubted that the facilities have encouraged and will continue to encourage the growth of a of new industries in Australia, and to bring to England many things perished by the in the old days must have commissioned the composition of the first edition of this work with the desire of placing before the public particulars of the route of the Orient Line, and of pointing out, as in a Guide Book, such information destination as may prove most useful to the intending passenger. In this second edition I have found it expedient or necessary to make considerable alterations, some passages being condensed and others added, but the volume still contains the chapters for travellers who wish to break the The maps, plans, and views will be found useful, as well as the A reference to the table of contents will show how varied is the character of the information afforded. notes on the longitude and the methods of reckoning time, which, in spite of the abstruse character of the subject, he has treated with a clearness which will bring it within the reach of that on European Cities, both by Mrs. Henry Fawcett, are be found useful as well as pleasant. Commander Hull, R.N., SECOND EDITION to and fro all but total The Managers as to season, voyage, and former rendered & servant Australia journey. voyage. selected advertisements. I have to thank an owned," eminent medical authority for the Notes on Health at Sea. The contributions of ih in a Mr. George Baden Powell, C.M.G., are chiefly to be found in the opening chapters cul and and in the descriptions of the two great routes, namely, that by Suez and that by the Cape. He has also a large share in the compilation of “ Natural History at Sea," a chapter in which I have also had the kind assistance of the Rev. C. H. Middleton-Wake, M.A., F.L.S., who is wholly responsible for a icrease feature, the to " Under the Sea." te the Mr. Norman Lockyer, F.R.S., has placed me under great obligations by his гу аrе stralia and ay of These / every rough fay, and ge that new and delightful pages devoted reader. The Italian chapter unaltered, and has compi xviii PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. the star maps, described the processes of seamanship and navigation, and contributed a chapter on “Weather at Sea.” Mr. H. E. Watts has revised and enlarged his account of the Australian Colonies, including Tasmania, New Zealand, and the most recent additions to English territory in the South Seas. I have to apologise to some of these contributors for a few changes which I have had to make in order to bring the book up to date, In consequence of such alterations I have thought it best to remove the initials which in the first edition, marked certain chapters, as I wish to be personally responsible for every page. W. J. LOFTIE. M For 1 The Guide Mana full p T from 1 Zeala R I OF at w and first will pro trar ROYAL MAIL i/ ation, and s revised ORIENT LINE Tasmania, y in the for a few 7 to date, STEAMSHIPS. move the ish to be SF. GREEN & Co. Fenchurch Avenue, London, E.C. For Freight or Passage apply to the latter Firm, or to any of the Agents. The following information is published as correct at the time of the issue of this Managers or any of the Agents of the Line, to whom application should be made for the full particulars of Fares and Regulations before Booking. The fares between England and the Ports of call of the Line in Australia each way range from about 16 guineas upwards, according to the accommodation required. Through Tickets are issued to and from all Ports in Australia, Tasmania, and New RETURN TICKETS are from time to time issued at reduced rates. OF THE LINE DO NOT CALL.- Passengers booked through for ports other than those THROUGH TICKETS FOR COLONIAL PORTS, AT WHICH THE STEAMERS at which the Steamers of the Line call, shall proceed from one of these ports as may be arranged Passenge and may remain on board the Orient Steamer without extra charge until the departure ofte first branch Steamer, should the Orient Steamer remain in port so · railway fares, &c., if incurred. proceeding by the first Intercolonial Steamer for their destination can have their lu88 transferred free of charge, at owner's risk, but no warehousing charges will be paid OF Managers: { ANDERSON, ANDERSON, & CO. co.} TIE. See Page xxiii. FOR PASSENGERS. Zealand ; also Single and Tourist Tickets between London and Naples, Port Said, and Suez. will not be answerable for any hotel expenses or INFORMATION long; but the Orient Li XX INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS. dlebarkation England. be announc Passenger, that the eai thus telegr Company t ser:d him w Telegra word, inclu CAU? BOOKING.-A deposit of half the passage money must be paid at the time of securing a berth, and the balance at least three days before embarkation. The deposit will be forfeited in the event of the Passenger not joining the ship. The full name, age, occupation, and destination of the Passenger should be forwarded when application is made for a ticket. EMBARKATION. – OUTWARD VOYAGE. - GRAVESEND. - Passengers joining at Gravesend are conveyed from London to the Ship free of charge, by Special Train, and Steam Tender from Tilbury Pier, leaving Fenchurch Street Station, of the London, Tilbury, and Southend Railway, on the day of embarkation at Gravesend. PLYMOUTH.—Passengers are embarked at this port by Steam Tender from Millbay Pier. Vouchers for travelling at reduced fares from Paddington or Waterloo Stations to Plymouth are issued by ANDERSON, ANDERSON, & Co., on application. The Agents at Plymouth are Messrs. J. T. WRIGHT & Co., Duke of Cornwall Buildings. NAPLES.—Passengers by Vessels taking this route can join the Steamer at Naples nine days later than in London. Railway Tickets from London to Naples can be purchased with the Ocean Ticket if desired. HOMEWARD VOYAGE.—Steam Tenders are provided for the convenience of Passengers on the day of Embarkation at Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide. NAPLES.— Passengers deciding to land here should give notice to the Purser of their intention to do so before leaving Suez. PLYMOUTH.-A Steam Tender meets each Steamer on arrival, and Railway Tickets to London at reduced rates are issued to Passengers by the Great Western Railway Company, or these can be purchased in Australia of the Orient Line Agents at time of securing passage. When the number of Passengers landing at Plymouth is sufficiently large, a Special Train will be put on for the convenience of Passengers to London. LUGGAGE.—First Class Passengers to or from Australia will be allowed 40 cubic feet each adult ; Second Class 20 feet ; Third Class 15 feet. Freight will be charged for excess. Every package must have the Passenger's name and destination distinctly painted, or otherwise permanently marked on it, with the words “ Wanted on the Voyage," or Not Wanted on the Voyage." Boxes for the Cabin should be marked “ Cabin," and should not exceed 2 feet 8 inches long, 1 foot 6 inches broad, and 1 foot 2 inches high. One Package of this size can be taken in the Cabin by each Adult Passenger. Only the personal baggage of the Passenger will be carried as Luggage, not other property. Merchandise cannot be shipped as Luggage. The ship will not be responsible for loss, damage, or detention of Luggage under any circum- stances whatever. Passengers should therefore look after its shipment here, and landing on arrival. Person: or damagu sustained. Passen their bags The ol and comfc the Capta EX Condit Conter of Booki Owners Goods st Caution The C and will Jewe All specifyir of Deliv Parcel I All Express Lading LETTERS AND TELEGRAMS. Letters posted in England, to reach Passengers at ports of call, should be addressed to the care of the Orient Line Agents at the respective ports. It is recommended that an address be written on flap of Envelope, notifying where the Letter may be forwarded if it misses the steamer. Passengers by nayment of 20s., at the time of booking, can have their safe arrival at port of The Owners reserve to themselves the right of charging by weight, measurement, or value, Jewellery, Watches, and other valua les must be sealed over tape in counter-sunk holes. All charges must be paid at time of shipment, for which Parcel Tickets will be given damage arising through insufficiency of address or packing. of Delivery, and no Package will be All Parcels and small Packages Pre to be applied for to the Owners' Agents at the Port to the Consignee without the production of the Express,” and are carried subject to must be distinctions set forth in the form of Bills of xxi INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS. of securing debarkation in Australia or New Zealand communicated by telegraph to their friends in be forfeited England. The full address, both of the Passenger and of the person to whom the arrival is to be announced, must be registered when booking passage. A Ticket will then be given to the forwarded Passenger, which, on arrival, he must present to the Agent of Reuter's Telegram Co., in order that the earliest information of his arrival may be given to his friends. The Passenger when thus telegraphing should record his Australian address in the books of Reuter's Telegram joining at Company there, and the charge for telegraphing address in any reply which his friends here may Train, and send him will thus be saved. in, Tilbury, Telegrams from Naples to England cost only 6d. per word, and from Egypt is, iod. per word, including in both cases the address. illbay Pier. Plymouth Plymouth CAUTION TO PASSENGERS.-GOODS OF A DANGEROUS NATURE. aples nine purchased Persons concerned in sending or bringing on board the Steamers any goods of a dangerous or damaging nature incur the penalties imposed by statute, besides being liable for all damages Passengers sustained. Passengers are specially cautioned against bringing Matches or other dangerous articles in I of their their baggage. Tickets to REGULATIONS. mpany, or issage. The object of all regulations adopted on board the Steamers is to ensure the general safety cial Train and comfort, and Passengers are requested to conform to them, and to support the authority of the Captain in carrying them out. EXPRESS FOR PARCELS AND SMALL PACKAGES. Conditions and rates can be obtained from the Head Office, or from any of the Agencies. Contents and Value, also name of Shipper and Consignee, must be declared at the time of Booking., Awrong description of contents or false declaration of value shall release the Owners of the Steamers from all responsibility in case of loss, seizure, or detention, and the Goods shall be charged double freight, which freight shall be paid previous to delivery. (See Caution at foot.] and will not be accountable for any addressed and marked “per Orient cubic feet for excess. ainted, or or “ Not hould not e Package 1 baggage annot be y circum- inding on ed to the Parcel Receipt. Vlivered he Letter t Lading used by this Line, at port of terms and -- xxii INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS. ORIENT WEST E N.B.-Shippers are specially cautioned against forwarding by the Orient Express or Late Express any letters or other matter which ought by Law to go through H.M. Post Office only. Caution to Shippers-Goods of a Dangerous Nature.- Notice is hereby given, that the Owners of the Steamers will not receive on board their vessels any Goods of a dangerous or damaging nature. Shippers will be required to sign a Declaration for Parcels, Merchanılise, Specie, &c. (form of which can be obtained of the agents), that the packages they may offer for shipment do not contain liquids, oils, spirits, or any articles of a dangerous or damaging character ; and the attention of shippers and passengers is specially directed to the following clauses in the “Merchant Shipping Act, 1873,"relative to articles of this description :- “If any person sends or attempts to send by, or not being the master or owner of the “ vessel carries or attempts to carry in any vessel, British or foreign, any dangerous goods : "(that is to say) aquafortis, vitriol, naphtha, benzine, gunpowder, lucifer matches, nitro-glycerine, petroleum, or any other goods of a dangerous nature, without distinctly marking their nature on the outside of the package containing the same, and giving written notice of the nature of such goods, and the name and address of the sender or carrier thereof to the master or owner of the vessel at or before the time of sending the same to be shipped or taking the same on “board the vessel, he shall for every such offence incur a penalty not exceeding £100. “If any person knowingly sends or attempts to send by, or carries or attempts to carry in “ any vessel, British or foreign, any dangerous goods or goods of a dangerous nature, under a false description, or falsely describes the sender or carrier thereof, he shall incur a penalty not "exceeding 2500. The master or owner of any vessel, British or foreign, may refuse to take on board any “package or parcel which he suspects to contain goods of a dangerous nature, and may require it to be opened to ascertain the fact.. ADELAIDE ADEV. ALEXAND BORDEAU BRINDISI BRISBANE CAIRO CAPE TOW COLOMBO DIEGO GA FLORENCI GALLE GENOA GIBRALTA HOBART KING GEO LEGHORN LISBON MADEIRA MALTA MAURITIU MELBOUR MESSINA NAPLES NEW ZEAI PALERMO PARIS PLYMOUT PORT SAI ROCKHAN ROME. ST. HELE ST. VINCI SUEZ SYDNEY TEXERIFI TRIESTE VENICE ORIENT LINE HEAD OFFICE IN LONDON : Fenchurch Avenue, E.C. H. LAURETTE & Co. W. STAPLEDON. A. MACBEAN & Co. SOLOMON, Moss, GIDEON & Co. CORY BROS. & Co., & MILLERS & NEPHEW. W. STAPLEDON. G. S. YUILL, GENERAL MANAGER IN AUSTRALIA S. & A. BLUMENTHAL & Co. xpress or Late Office only. Fiven, that the dangerous or Merchandise, '.may offer for or damaging the following ion:- WEST END AGENCY, GRINDLAY AND CO.: owner of the 55, Parliament Street, S.W. erous goods : tro-glycerine, their nature the nature of AGENTS. ister or owner the same on 100. ADELAIDE J. STILLING & Co. ADEN. LUKE THOMAS & Co., LIMITED ts to carry in ALEXANDRIA R. J. Moss & Co. iture, under a BORDEAUX H. Davis. a penalty not BRINDISI . FRATELLI NEVEGNA. BRISBANE B. D. MOREHEAD & Co. CAIRO Thos. Cook & Son. CAPE TOWN W. ANDERSON & Co. may require COLOMBO WHITTALL & Co. DIEGO GARCIA FLORENCE JAMES Spongoni - Cari: O: TALLIR WM. MILLER. GALLE DELMÉGE, Reid, & Co. GENOA GRANET, BROWN, & Co. GIBRALTAR : SMITH, IMOSSI, & Co. MACFARLANE BROS. & Co. KING GEORGE'S SOUND J. McKail & Co. LEGHORN WM. MILLER. LISBON : E. PINTO BASTO & Co. MADEIRA BLANDY BROTHERS & Co. MALTA O. F. GÖLLCHER. MAURITIUS BLYTH BROS. & Co. MELBOURNE. GIBBS, BRIGHT, & Co. MESSINA G. OATES & Co. NAPLES AND HOLME & Co. LIMITEN, NEW ZEALAND UNION STEAMSHIP CO. OF NEW ZEALAND, (HEAD OFFICE, DUNEDIN), AND THEIR AGENTS THROUGHOUT THE COLONY. PALERMO PARIS T. Wright & Co. MORTGAGE & AGENCY CO., LIMITED. 2 board any THOMAS BROTHERS. . J. UNION PLYMOUTH PORT SAID ROCKHAMPTON : ROVE ST. HELENA ST. VINCENT (C. DE Verd is.) SUEZ SYDVEY TENERIFFE TRIESTE VENICE & Co. SCHRÖDER LIST OF ORIENT LINE STEAM SHIPS. S.S. AUSTRAL. Tons. H.P. 5,588 7,000 . . S.S. CHIMBORAZO · 3,847 3,000 . S.S. CUZCO • 3,845 3,000 3,876 3,000 S.S. GARONNE. S.S. IBERIA · 4,702 4,200 S.S. JOHN ELDER. 4,182 3,000 S.S. LIGURIA 4,688 4,200 . S.S. LUSITANIA. . · 3,825 3,000 S.S. ORIENT . 5,386 6 000 S.S. POTOSI 4,267 3,500 S.S. SORATA 4,059 3,500 . S. Toxs. H.P. 5,538 7,000 - 3,847 3,000 3,845 3,000 3,876 3,000 4,702 4,200 4,182 3,000 1,633 4,200 3,825 3,000 5,386 6000 4,267 3,500 4,059 3,500 t с t r t ( S.S."AUSTRAL to the Antipodes, Tirm of Messrs. ANDERSON, ANDERSON, & Co., .. channels. A little further on machinery which makes the fro. en meat trade so important an item in our list now make as light of going too, has enormously developed, and people Early in 1877 the Londo perceiving that the time PART I. CHAPTER 1.-MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. THE voyager of to-day enjoys advantages unthought of before in the world's history. Since the beginning of the present century, the changes that have come over the art of navigation are little less than astounding. It used to be nothing extraordinary for a ship to be four, five, or even six months on the passage to or from Australia. When the gold-digging mania broke out, in the year before the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park, which so many of us can perfectly well remember, an emigrant thought himself fortunate if he saw the Heads at Port Phillip in ninety days. Some fast sailing ships did the passage in a shorter time, and it was long prophesied that steamers could never be available for so protracted a voyage. But now all the circumstances of the are altered. The Orient and other lines run steamers regularly to Australia, and since the Suez Canal was opened, it is no unusual thing for travellers proceeding overland to Egypt to traverse the whole twelve thousand miles, half the circumference of the earth, in thirty days. The speed of the voyage is hardly more surprising than the amount of the traffic. Our trade with Australia is larger than that with any one nation of the continent of Europe. We send to her more manufactured goods than we send We receive from her more produce than we receive from Germany. Moreover, this trade increases almost daily, and is constantly opening fresh will be found an account of the wonderful of imports. Such a contrivan a cargo, was unthought of even a few case to France. 1 The passenger ce tr years ago. and such as, fifty years ago, they did Sffic, of going to Ireland. Wa founding a first-class steam line to B come for 2 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. -- Australia direct, commenced running with chartered steamers, and on the 7th March, 1878, the Garonne left London flying the new flag of the ORIENT STEAM NAVIGATION CO., LIMITED, which had been formed by the united efforts of the firm above named, and of Messrs. GREEN & Co., also of London, who had joined them for the purpose. At first only a monthly service was intended, but very soon it became plain that the traffic demanded fort- nightly sailings. Four steamers, the Chimborazo, the Lusitania, the Cuzco, and the Garonne, already belonged to the company by purchase, and the Orient was built by the company specially for the trade. When in the beginning of 1880, the fortnightly service was determined upon, the Company were fortunate in obtain- ing the co-operation of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, whose fine fleet of steamers was in full working order and admirably adapted for the Australian voyage. Troubles at that time breaking out in South America, left the Pacific Company at liberty to devote to the Orient Line the services of a portion of their fleet, and the Orient Company's fleet has been still further reinforced by the launch of the Austral, a ship which closely resembles the Orient, but is of even greater size and power. Like the Orient, too, the Austral is built in accordance with the requirements of the Admiralty for ships which in case of war may be turned into cruisers. The Orient was selected by government to take out some of the principal officers of the Army despatched to Egypt in 1882, among them being H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, and his suite. People who never go to sea are unaware of the advantages that great steamer lines afford. But the misconception and prejudice that has prevailed among the inexperienced in regard to long sea-voyages is now being rapidly dissipated. Those who have made such a voyage look back to days spent at sea as some of the merriest they have ever enjoyed. Such ex- periences are leavening the whole lump of public opinion. The one central point is, that the life on the ship is, in many senses, the very opposite of life ashore. This, which does such an immensity of good to all who do go, must be appreciated betimes by all who would go. What auctioneers might term a "miscellaneous lot” of human beings are associated within a small space for days or wecks, holding only occasional communication with others of their species. In this close companionship they traverse portions of the earth in nowise resembling the land they are most accustomed to, and they visit a succession of places and people differing wholly one from another. There MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. 3 the many places of great and useful interest, most profitably analysed and all her belongings, and all her machinery, present a problem which may be slip the occasion lets slip a solved during the voyage ; and he who lets Outside the ship nature aluable opportunity. phenomena and objects to herself invites study and admiration. Veteorologist, she offers, out of sight of land, the stay-on-shore observer is altogether a Nk in sufficient detail elsewhere. And in other is thus a radical but altogether enjoyable change in their manner of exist- ence. To the untravelled the prospect of a sea-voyage is clouded over with melancholy forebodings, based on the traditions of the evil past, and on wild imaginings from a limited experience of “Channel crossings” and sea-sickness, darkly coloured by the more conscientious qualms of five weeks of valuable time wasted. But these forebodings are only possible under the influence of culpable ignorance. For all classes—not only for those who must, but for those who choose -a sea-voyage opens a vista of entertainment and attainment such as no other mode of travelling offers. And to be ignorant of these is to be ignorant of a mode of travelling which is happily now rapidly approaching perfection. Voyagers, whether consciously or unconsciously, will discover much to occupy their attention and feed their best powers of observation both inside and outside the ship herself. Inquirers will never find more favourable opportunities for their “most proper study” than the long sea voyage which throws them into intimacy with that thoroughly representative human collection to be found in every big Liner. An Orient steamer will provide a a perfect microcosm of human society. Different grades of society will associate together and develop hitherto unsuspected sympathies; first, second, and third classes forming one great family. And the community from the highest to the lowliest has its executive in the captain and the crew. As the voyage proceeds, not only will cach individual be probably compelled to congruous and incongruous intimacies, unknown in the hard and fast demarcations of life ashore ; but there will be revealed in the clear minuteness of this lesser world the same human ambition and failings and powers that it is so difficult to separate from the confused complexity of their multitudinous surroundings in the great world. The great ship herself , , For the the naturalist, the artist, Of all this we SD stranger. chapters, too, we shall shall tell B 2 Wich br MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. а touched at or stayed at along the Orient routes. For there is not only this New World, that in human as in natural surroundings, is to be enjoyed out of sight of land, but the great steamer is perpetually entering new ports and new climes; conducting the traveller in untroubled ease through perfect panorama of scenes and sights and experiences altogether impossible in land travel of equal cost and duration. A word may be added in regard to those who travel for recreation pure and simple, and their number increases daily as the many advantages the sea voyage has over similar expendi- ture on shore travel come to be known. If those on pleasure bent look back to a tour on the Continent, or in Scotland, they remember only a chronic state of packing and of unpacking, of catching trains and missing trains, of a general rush and skurry. And if there has been a hasty glance at objects of interest or peculiarly striking scenery, it has been guiltily snatched from the more urgent and solemn duties of looking out routes, choosing hotels, paying away money in quantities-small or great, but never ending—and puzzling for hours over calculations in pounds, marks, francs, and lire. Had the train whisked the worried tourist to the deck of an Orient steamer at Tilbury, instead of to the Boulogne packet, everything would have been different. With the signing of the cheque for the passage all thought of money ceases. Board, lodging, and journey for so many weeks or months are once for all arranged and paid for, saving further anxiety or trouble. The tourist has nothing in hand but to enjoy himself, and make the most of his surroundings. There is no thought for the morrow, or even for the day, as to destination, food, or lodging—"sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof”—and the morrow, so far as the passenger is concerned, is sufficient thought for itself. This is of unique and invaluable advantage to those who seek at sure respite from overwork, or recovery from sickness. Such a class of passengers is destined largely to increase. The rush and worry of modern life has promoted the creation of luxurious floating hotels on the sea. And in so doing, it has in a great measure supplied an antidote to new ills to which the flesh becomes heir under its influence. A voyage to Australia and back completely resting and refreshing the over- wrought brain, will come to be a recognised specific in cases where this modern life hurries and worries a man out of all condition. The over-taxed lawyer, statesman, or business man, by taking passage finds his luxurious sea a ro S S "AUSTRAL PROMENACE DECK Mrse or monotonous food, and deficient ventilation only for the invalid, but for an interest, from the medical point of view, not We shall briefly consider, in the passenger who enjoys average good health. body generally, and secondl the first place, the effects of a sea-voyage on the temperament of the indivi Bad weather, sea-sickness, Yppose that the physiological or medicinal effects much on the route, and much on the ship. MEDICAL ASPECTS OF THE VOYAGE. 5 lodging, ample board, and personal safety ensured to him without further thought on his part, day by day, for the four months. All these advantages apply with yet greater purpose to the actual invalid. London doctors have for some time recognised the beneficial effects of a long sea-voyage. They appreciate and understand the invaluable effects of thorough change of life. Everything proceeds regularly, leisurely, and smoothly; there is positively nothing to be troubled about. The whole effect is thus powerfully soothing. It is virtually impossible to keep out of the fresh air; this is perhaps the leading difference between life at sea and life on shore. Naturally and inevitably all, except the incorrigibly lazy, appear on deck before breakfast; no sooner is that meal over, 'than they reappear, and the livelong day until bedtime, every one sits and works or walks on deck in the pure sea-breeze, diving below at frequent intervals to staunch temporarily an insatiable appetite. Above all, drains are positively non- existent. When we remember that the sole alternative for the invalid on shore is either to become the centre of a troubled and upset household, or the inmate of one of those“ paying wards” that are coming into vogue in the leading hospitals—and when we remember that in either case the mental effect, the most vital of all effects, is the reverse of exhilarating, we shall at once acknowledge that at sea the invalid, under the charge of the able ship's surgeon, can enjoy surroundings of far greater promise, and far more intrinsic value than those that can be obtained on shore at anything like a similar outlay. For the benefit both of medical men and of invalids we embody here the specially prepared scientific opinion on the subject by a competent medical authority : The life on board ship has to Ít would be a mistake of a sea-voyage are alway Much depends on the constitution or be 6 $14:6 MEDICAL ASPECTS OF THE VOYAGE. 28 29 30 0 24 25 26 27 6 5 22 23 4 19 20 21 JANUARY 18 31 OL 29 10 11 12 13 14 15 24 23 should enter into our calculations, although the two last may be obviated. But there are certain general effects of the occan climate and the life on board ship that come into operation more or less in every long voyage. They are the proper effects of the sea-air, and of the sea-exercise. The air at sea is different in several respects from that on land. It contains more ozone and less carbonic acid, it is practically free from dust or particles of organic matter, and it has among its proper constituents, a certain amount of sea-salts which are distilled into the atmosphere by the constant evaporation from the surface of the water. The same ceaseless evaporation makes it more uniformly moist, and on the whole less clear than the land air ; but in the trade winds it has a remarkable transparency, which makes the sky seem higher, and the stars more remote and lustrous, and sometimes gives rise to the most brilliant colours and delicate tints. The log of the S.S. Lusitania, outward bound by the Cape has an entry that the Peak of Teneriffe was sighted 130 miles distant. The steadiness of the thermometer and barometer are not the least striking and valuable distinctions of the oceanic atmosphere. An examination of the log-books of various steamships of the Orient Line on the voyage outwards and homewards by the Canal, goes to show that the average range of the temperature within the twenty-four hours was remarkably little, and that, generally speaking, the transitions were of the most gradual and imperceptible kind. The day and night fluctuations are greatest near to the land, and least in the Indian Ocean, where the diurnal range is often as little as three or four degrees. It is this steadiness of the day and night temperature that takes away the risk of chill; but it should not be forgotten that there may be a considerable fall of dew in sub-tropical latitudes, and a sharp piercing breeze setting in about half-an-hour before sunset. The steadiness of the barometer is even more remarkable; the readings on two outward voyages by the Cape show that there was hardly a quarter of an inch of fluctuation for four weeks after passing Madeira, the almost uniform level of 30 to 30'2 inches continuing until it was broken in the South Atlantic, by a gradual ascent followed by a rapid fall and stormy weather. The combined effects of sea-air and sea-exercise—the kind of exercise that comes without effort to every one on board ship, should always be supple- mented by exercise of the deliberate kind, such as pacing the deck, dumb-bells, or the like—are to stimulate powerfully the physiological renewal of the tissues, or that process of waste and repair which goes on incessantly, and is always most healthy when it is least sluggish. This heightened activity of the nutritive functions is shown in an increased appetite, and in a decided gain in the body weight. There are exceptional cases in which persons who are good sleepers when at home, become peculiarly wakeful when at sea ; but for the most part the sleep is sound and refreshing. Along with this state of rude health, there will be a certain tendency to inactivity of the mind, and perhaps even to ennui. Those who take a voyage for the sake of change should see to it that they are not passing from one state of boredom into another. Many passengers have resources within themselves, and those who 9 21 22 8 7 20 1 1 1 1 1 1 81 + 3 حیا 31 °que 2 21 28 29 30 26 26 MBER 23 24 30 60° 29 70° 90° 80° 28 DECEMBER 27 28 29 30 31 4 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 15 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 # 12 13 14 15 16 17 JANUARY 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2 3 8 9 10 12 31 31 os MADEIRA EQUATOR TABLE BAY 30 N.NET LA MEN BAROMETRIC TRACING OF DAILY MAXIMUM & MINIMUM DURING 2 VOYAGES FROM PLYMOUTH TO AUSTRALIA BY THE CAPE. .W co Gule, W.8. W 28 MARCH 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 APRIL 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 3 FEBRUARY 1 2 9022 23 24 25 26 27 28 ADEN RED SEA! EQUATOR 80 ܠܐ IN < 70 2 NOON AND MIDNIGHT READINGS OF THE THERMOMETER DURINC OUTWARD VOYAGE OF S. S. LUSITANIA" VIA SUEZ. ADELAIDE W 60 STANFORD'S GEOGESTAB 1. JUNE 13 MAY 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 19.30. 21 22 23 24 25 26 OCTOBER 4 26 27 28 29 30 11 12 JULY 27 28 29 30 1 2 5 R 7 8 9 3 10 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Il 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 JUNE 2 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 NOVEMBER 29 30 31 28 4 5 900 90 80 WWW 180° EQUATOR EQUATOR ENTERED RED SEA zins 70° W 70 NOON AND MIDNIGHT READINGS OF THE THERMOMETER DURING 3 HOMEWARD VOYACES VIA THE SUEZ CANAL. PLYMOUTH 60 60! Per S. S“Lusitania". April, May, June "Chimborazo, June, July "Lusitania” Sept., Oct., Nov. STANFORD'S GEOG4 ESTAB 80 50° 70 60° 8 9 13 10 11 18 12 14 19 20 21 17 15 16 APRIL 15 16 17 18 MAY 23 24 25 26 DESEMBER 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 JUNE 27 28 29 30 31 ! 2 10 12 13 15 MAY 26 27 28 29 30 1 2 3 5 6 7 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 25 26 27 28 22 23 24 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 29 30 31 JANUARY 5 6 8 7 3 10 28 N 80° EQUATORI UATOR NEQUATORI ARRIVED IN TALL BAS LEFT TABLE BA 70° ER $! VINGENT 60 Hug zavruuv CAPE TOWN 50 CEFIRISIERRE NOON AND MIDNICHT READINCS OF THE THERMOMETER DURINO 3 VOYACES FROM PLYMOUTH TO AUSTRALIA BY THE CAPE. V FINN NN INN 'M'N'N S.W. S.W. W.N.W. S.W. SWI STANFORD'S GEOG: ESTABT - MEDICAL ASPECTS OF THE VOYAGE. . 7 have some knowledge of, or interest in the working of the ship, or a taste for natural history or astronomy, will find opportunities of beguiling the time. A not too cumbrous microscope will prove useful. There are some people who never tire of watching the minute creatures which may be filtered off from any bucketful of salt-water. A more general kind of interest which should be diligently and systemati- cally encouraged by all on board, will be found in various kinds of entertain- ments, and in preparing for the same. Even the best tempered people are apt to be bored by one another on a long voyage. Good bodily health will probably come of itself , but those who desire to enjoy an even mind will have to study the art of it. Charles Kingsley's advice, based on an experience of his fellow-passengers during the voyage to the West Indies and back, was :- “ Be to their faults a little blind.” Another good working rule for a sea-voyage is-“Love me little, love me long." The change to the life on board ship produces certain effects that require medicinal treatment. Most people suffer from constipation, against which the passenger should provide himself with some convenient preparation of an aperient saline medicine. Indigestion is an exceedingly common complaint at sea, and it is best counteracted by eating less and pacing the deck more. Tooth- ache and relaxed throat are more occasional troubles. The standing discourage- ment of a sea-voyage at its commencement is of course sea-sickness. The passenger may at once dismiss the idea of finding a remedy in drugs. The best preventive is a purge taken the night before embarking, followed by a saline draught in the morning, together with extreme moderation in (or still better, abstinence from) tobacco and drink, more particularly beer. The body should be kept warm, especially the hands and feet, and the loins, around which a broad sash may be wrapped with advantage. If sea-sickness is imminent, it is well to encourage it. A firm resolution to get into the air on deck at the earliest possible moment, will often prove the first step towards recovery. Courage to sit down at table, even before the nausea has quite passed off, has been rewarded in like manner. Sea-sickness is depressing and even paralysing to the will and purpose, and the sick person will get over it all the sooner if he is taken in hand and ordered about by a friendly neighbour. There are, however, some persons who cannot brave it out, and who require the most considerate attention. A piece of ice (which should be procurable without difficulty at any time) helps to allay the retching if sucked slowly. Food should be pressed upon the more helpless, notwithstanding their loathing of it; arrow- root-the genuine article and not potato-starch—is a good thing to begin with, and there should be some simple means of getting boiling water to prepare it with at any time; afterwards dry toast and beef tea flavoured with cayenne pepper may be offered. The well-known rule to lie on the back quite still, with the head down, is based on a sound principle. Whatever may be the more particular cause of sea-sickness, it is in a general way due to the kind of movement which the body has not yet learned to adapt itself to. The rolling and pitching of a ship are too much for the equilibrium of some of the internal mechanisms, probably the 8 MEDICAL ASPECTS OF THE VOYAGE. sea legs" they may not affect even that, of bismuth. nervous system in the first instance. Those incessant shocks and jars cease after a time to affect anything but the muscular system, and when a passenger has got closely to the mobile element on which he has embarked will be least liable to invaluable steadier to keep the eye fixed on a distant object, or on the horizon if To lie quite still in one's berth is one way; when on deck it is an the health, and there can be no doubt that most persons are none the worse for The ancient writers considered that sea-sickness was highly beneficial to it, notwithstanding the extreme discomfort and suffering that it causes. But, in some cases, it leaves a good deal of irritability of the stomach behind it, for which cayenne pepper, or other hot condiment may be taken at meals, or a dose The voyage to Australia and back, if made under favourable circumstances, that point, than to add to the chorus of recommendation. often sent to Australia, that it is necessary rather to put in a word of caution on symptoms of that malady should embark without the advice of a physician, and of a physician who knows, not only the state of his patient's lungs, but something of the route, and of the life on board ship. Many consumptive patients have been permitted to start on a long ocean voyage, who were unfit more injurious to the legitimate interests of shipping companies, than to send more cruel to the unhappy patient, more upsetting to his fellow-passengers, or off a person in an advanced stage of consumption on the voyage to Australia. The physician's advice may very well be bold and prompt, provided it be invalid, he should be strongly advised to secure for himself a whole state- sea-air is a better restorative to the disordered lungs than any medicated vapour, his “ sea-sickness. Whoever can adapt himself most , Consumptives are so No one who has drive on a fine . seclusion to that extent is due not only to himself, but also to his pulmonary cases are too bene henown to occupy space here. The benefits of the Australian voyage in well-chosen for such persons is to live won deck was much as the weather will permit. The The grand rule It , in may under most circumstances be inhaled all day without risk of chill. as close and unwholesome as it ever is on shore. serious attention of naval architects. Primary requirement in a state-room, and the point is one that engages the Good ventilation is rheumatism, especially in young persons, habitual dyspepsia with a tendency Other forms of ill-health likely to benefit from the voyage, are chronic recurrent habits of body. Those who have got into a state of worry by too melancholy, neuralgia, periodical headaches, and such like obstinate or sustained brain-work or by anxiety, derive great and instant benefit from going supposed, to the steadiness of the barometer end thermometer whether the soothing effects of the voyage be due, as some have or to more undertake more than a discriminating. room ; fellow-passengers. and it the to THE PASSENGER. 9 general causes. Convalescents from a severe illness are another large class likely to benefit. Lastly, the exercise and fresh air that may be got on board ship without effort are peculiarly suited to those persons who have had the misfortune to suffer an injury to the spine in a railway accident, or in the hunting field. What the surgeon aims at in those difficult and often dis- tressing cases is a paradoxical combination of rest and exercise, and it does not appear that the combination is attainable anywhere except on the sea. We may now proceed to give some description of one of the ships of the line, reserving an account of the engines, with those two marvellous modern improvements, the electric light, and the freezing chamber, for a future chapter. The passenger who goes on board an Orient liner will find everything arranged to conduce as much as possible to his comfort ; those who travel second class will enjoy accommodation which a few years ago would have been unattainable in the first. Nevertheless, grumblers are sometimes encountered; but, in the absence of the postman's knock, in the perfection and punctuality of the routine of the daily life, in the temporary cessation of care, even a grumbler should sooner or later yield to the fascination of the voyage. It would be well, however, for the intending voyager to make up his mind to take a cheerful view of things from the first, and if a few rose leaves are crumpled under him, to endure them for a time and trust that soon even these sources of slight discomfort will disappear. Another recommendation may be made. It is well not to be wholly unemployed during a voyage. Some people find a difficulty in writing on board ship, but almost all can read, and no better opportunity can be imagined than that afforded by a month at sea for the study of some special subject. The following description of one of the latest built steamers is extracted from a public print:-The promenade deck is over 200 feet long and about 24 feet above the load water line. This space is reserved for the use of the saloon passengers, and is approached from the saloon space by a handsome staircase. On the promenade deck are the chart room, captain's room, &c., on the top of this the navigating bridge is fitted, whence there is communi- cation to the engine room, look-out bridge, forecastle, and to the after wheel, by telegraphs (mechanical) and voice pipes. At the part where the funnels come up through the promenade deck, the fidley or casing is carried up 7 feet high. This, besides carrying up the heat, dust, &c., forms an excellent “lee” on one side or the other at all times. IO the most beautiful apartment, 32 feet by 16 feet, and about in white enamel and gold. under the ceiling are several electric lights in opal or floor is covered by handsome windows are also of Indian manufacture, of silk and saloon smoking-room can be entered on either side. apartment, lighted and ventilated from above, and the sides and ends are finished in solid oak and mahogany with ebony mouldings. The room is in direct communication, by means of a lift, with the bar, which also is lighted Descending to the main deck the saloon dining room is entered. This the Orient Company with the lion and the kangaroo as supporters, emble- THE PASSENGER. upper deck the entrance to the drawing-room is Round its fore end and or sofas, while about the room are handsome at the after end between the doors stands a most globes. Indian carpets, and head of the saloon stair to the main deck, the It is a most comfortable The ends are in walnut, Here are seen the arms of Descending to reached. This is a 9 feet high, finished sides are arranged settees tables and chairs, and excellent piano, and The deck the curtains to the gold thread. Passing aft to the with the electric light. . sided apartment about 40 feet by 40 feet, and arranged with panels holding richly-carved and coloured coats of arms of the great is an irregularly to accommodate about 120 persons at dinner. countries of the world, including the colonies. matical of England and Australia. that well classes, and vided for them. Here too is the motto of the Orient Company, « Par non teonina societas," indicating the belief of the Company the advantages of the connection between the Mother Country and the colonies is and ought to be mutual and not one-sided. The saloon is furnished with small tables to accommodate quartettes, as as larger companies. Hospitals are fitted up for passengers of all even the third-class passengers have a bath-room specially pro- It is necessary to give some thought for one moment to the somewhat important question of the cabin proper or bedroom. First and foremost, the intending passenger must bear in mind he is going to sea, and he must no more expect the familiar hotel bedroom than he would expect the same in express train. In the first place, space has to be economised; in the second, the “un and down” ocean has to be traversed. The cabin to the an 10 XXX C WO, TU! AUTO131) vind סיווגהיון DRAWING ROOM . 1 1 - THE PASSENGER. 3 inexperienced may seem at the first “cribbed and confined,” but, as every passenger knows, these attributes resolve themselves early in the voyage into cozy and comfortable. Cabins are provided to accommodate, according to their size, one, two, three, or four passengers each. It is well, if possible, before the start to find out who your companions are to be. Any passenger who values his comfort should engage a cabin, large or small, for his sole use, and for this purpose the Orient Line offers most reasonable facilities. The newly-built vessels of the Line have cabins specially fitted to “make up" during the day into sitting-rooms. They are further supplied with suités of cabins in every variety. The advantage of a place reserved for oneself adds immensely to the enjoyment of the voyage. But it is perhaps to the invalid that such privacy yields the best return for the increased cost. When he decides on a sea voyage, it is probably because of the urgency of his case ; and if ways and means warrant the expenditure, it is well that he should not be cabined with unknown companions, who may possibly be given to cheery fun, most insupportable in a sick room. To grudge a few extra pounds in such cases is to grudge what may, after all, prove an important factor in the desired cure. Little need be said of the obvious duty of the invalid towards his fellow-passengers. Cabin mates are assumed to be in average health; and to say nothing of the chances of infection, it is not fair for a passenger suffering, for instance, from a distressing and perpetual cough, to impose himself on a hale man. It becomes a duty for such a person, towards his fellow-passengers, to avoid inflicting his ailment on them. Alike for his own sake and for theirs it is his advantage and his duty to secure a cabin for himself. Fittings.—The cabins are fitted with bed and bedding, washstand, seat, clothes hooks and rack for small parcels and wardrobes in use. It may be said by the inexperienced voyager that nothing then remains for the passenger but to supply some handy type of portmanteau. Without entering upon the question of ornamentation, and the hanging up reminiscences of shore life, there is one essential without which he who travels at sea travels in avoidable discomfort. This sine quâ non is simply a series of pockets, large and small, attached to a canvas backing, to be fixed on the bulkhead or “wooden wall” of the cabin, and to be purchased in sufficient variety at any outfitter's. 12 THE PASSENGER. The wise passenger will see one is in the midst of an inch or may be large enough for brushes and books, and some small enough for trinkets and knives. Six or eight such pockets hold, where and where they are safe through the mightiest rolling, tooth powder, a pack of cards, handkerchiefs, and other personal knick-knacks of comfort that is made up of hair brushes, field glasses, The old traveller will put the various ingredients of comfort into his bags before he leaves his house, and thus on board it will take him to hang up that which makes him thoroughly unpacked There is the further point of the actual packages of baggage. It is usual to stow most of these under the bed or bunk. to it that the underside of his trunk or box is provided with wooden battens waters, and dampness, usually but temporary, is not unknown on the floor on the deck, boat, and landing stages at start and arrival. By this little timely expedient, the soddening of one's property is avoided. Heavy baggage is carried to the baggage-room, to which periodical access voyage extends from temperate regions, through the tropics, and ends in weather clothes, and in the middle the lightest of summer dress, is essential to health and comfort. For the beginning and the end, all is suggested by bered, too, that the cold is felt more severely on coming out of the steamy Some of the pockets that olla podrida in daily use. but two seconds at once. to raise it At sea is given. the remark that an ulster is a necessity on deck going down the English It must be remem- Channel, as it also is approaching and leaving Australia. tropics than before entering them. It is in the tropics that the change in clothing is desirable, though the steamers of the Orient Line steer a course as short as possible through that tropical heat, which, once dispossessed of its novelty, affords but little pleasure. Thin flannel suits will be found on experience the best for this weather; cool in the sun they nevertheless effectually prevent chills that arise from dew or perspiration and they are not so readily soiled as duck and white clothing. The great question of shirts and underclothing generally is regulated by the facilities for washing on board. Starching, ironing, and the getting up of fine linen are seldom practicable ; but for the rougher washing some more off the deck. Much depends on a wise choice of clothing. As the Australian temperate regions again, it is obvious that at the beginning and end, cold -- HT S. S: "AUS MAIN DECK KING ROOM 35 39240433449 361 19:37 38 42 e46 47 48 51 52 CLA Qe@€ 0909099 886665006 T0586 ISY CLASS #SATION ABOVE EI LIGHT P9 PA 96606 99 10 01 id 129 30 SRCE [ s119 23127 28 15.20 16 0-18 21-2225-26 3132 IZZ-1288 123 3011am SI-134 WORDT မာ TAILEO 31 32 143 144 SECOND 139 140 135 136 SECOND CLASS 10715 17 118 109 116 35 36 ECO CLASS O TAILEO 139 PATRY Fees Boere తం- అంత B&G 99986 $668 960000 SKYLIGHT ABOVE 45 92 93198 99 104TOS 121 13/12 jodiod :) ENCERS 81 82T 78 71 72 73 124 124 125 126 on. ON 51 5285 861 222, 53-54 8T588 183.84 79 80 SALOON EXTRANCE UCKTANU UNT SAL IT CLASS “AUSTRAL". 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ENTRANCE ON UPPER DECK. 612-621 167.368762721 65 66 69 7073 74 CLASS En 78 IRST ay 1179 2085 888 91 2095 95 93 94 97 98 1113 114 117 118 S. 107 108 TOJ 104 T105 106 99 100 TOT 102 115116119 1201 + Odd numbers wrr upper Berths. SECOND PASSENGERS 35 36 434439 401 CLASS PASSENGERS FIRST CLASS TWT TTTI CENTLEMEN TOENTLEMEN 27 28 SATU 45 4614122 37 38133 34 29 3026 1920 SECOND CLASS DAT SATA 21 22 TORS CLASS 17 18 115. 16 TATU LIGWARD BIROVIT PASSENGERS 67 68 63 64 52 6055 56 51 52.47 13 19 10 67 1328 LADIE 61 62 FC 5:58 SECOND CLASS PASSENGERS PIRST CLASS PASSENGEM Wadd numbers are uppliertha 12. a : pro са1 thi rec is SP Di we of ar w in ре W le is to S t i .. THE PASSENGER 13 is generally to be found in port; and it is usual to that is past to Comfort The decks are provide a sufficient stock of old and new to last the period-while a capacious that is damp having been first dried in the ship's drying room); and the sea Head gear is an important point. But the variety is infinite. is the main object. A sun helmet will be found useful in the tropics and a Something that the wind will not blow off is equally "declare" and show to the Custom House officials all such articles. The passenger will thus learn at once and authoritatively on what he has to pay duty and on what not. Above all, the passenger should remember that Custom however wise they may be in principle, are none the less duties imposed by House duties, however vexatious they may seem, and however foolish or the public itself for its own purposes of government. They are not, as be in benighted countries, efficient substitute for the land laundry-maid a ship. But after all, the trip is short from port canvas bag gapes in the cabin to receive all receives such as is incapable of future wear. special boon when landing in such hot corners as St. Vincent, Port Said, of Diego Garcia. welcome when there is life on the ocean wave. The shoeing of the feet is matter for serious thought. often temporarily damp-rain, dew, heavy sea, or the washing of the decks are all matters of daily occurrence. On such occasions india-rubber soles, well corrugated, keep the wet out and the wearer on his legs. For those who entertain no pious dread of the heating of their soles there is comfort in the homely golosh. Blacked boots are at a discount on board ship; the pervading dampness makes them leave their blacking in many undesirable ways and places. Moreover, as they are liable to become mouldy, crude leather unblacked or canvas are the best materials. It is not often that rain is persistent, but a waterproof or macintosh will often enable the passenger to enjoy grand scenes of breaking seas or harbour entrances undeterred by spray or tropical downpours. Passengers will do well to remember that at both ends of the voyage there are such things as Custom Houses. Each colony in Australia has full liberty to arrange its own Customs duties. Everything in personal use is free. Tobacco, silver plate, and spirits are the other articles most commonly carried that are liable to duty; and the used to be in the middle ages, and still simplest golden rule is always to nere may 14 THE PASSENGER. inordinate appetite. ship; and the intervals between meals are filled with yearnings for the next. Chemists attribute these yearnings to the greater percentage of ozone in the sea air; physicists, as they are termed across the Atlantic, incline rather to the opinion that while on the ever-dancing wave the human body is struggling and straining to preserve its upset equilibrium, and that thus the black-mail levied on all for the benefit of some one individual or class of individuals. To object to paying them then shows not only want of honesty, but lack of sense. Philosophers in all ages have agreed that happiness has some subtle connexion with the stomach. Thus the intending voyager Thus the intending voyager will gladly learn something about the food to be expected. The table kept on board the Orient Liners will compare favourably in quality and cuisine with that of a first-class club. The daily routine opens in the first saloon with coffee or tea and biscuits from 6 to 7 A.M. At nine follows a breakfast that for substantial variety is only to be equalled in Scotland. Porridge, chops and steaks vie with curries and fricassees to provide ballast for the omelettes and jam that are to follow. At noon the table is again spread for tiffen, with its cold meats and garnishings. From 5 to 7 comes dinner, the great event of the day at sea. A series of soups, fish, meats, entrées, curries, puddings, pies, and dessert helps to sustain the famishing passenger until two hours later he sits down to tea and toast. Later in the evening arrives the sea meal, "grog,” at which solids yield precedency to liquids; and while in the tropics aërated waters are common, in cold weather hot water and lemons are not altogether unknown. It is obvious that at sea there is a feast of something more than reason, and it is this abundance of good things which is so large a factor in the production of that high standard of health usually associated with a sea In fact, unless one pays royally for accommodation at the very best of hotels, there is no such living to be had ashore. The invalid and the traveller will alike make a note of this. It is well known to those who have been many voyages, that any passenger who begins to quarrel with the food will turn out on closer acquaintance to belong to a class that has never known at home what good feeding was. There is no doubt but that in every human being, once he or she loses sight of land, there is developed an insatiable and There is a chronic state of hunger pervading every body is perpetually voyage. THE PASSENGER, Ordinary folding up batten chair is 15 Thus, For these even lying in bed, there is pro- ishments. But there is danger from this in the tropics. The heat alters the calls for never-ceasing replen-- is cut short by the Orient Line route, and every facility of ice and punkans and awnings is provided; still the passenger will find it conduce greatly to his own comfort no less than to his health, if for that brief space he abjure all the stronger kinds All will notice that the dews heavy when in the neighbourhood of land, and often scarcely appreciable The passenger should, before embarking, provide himself with a deck shift, morcover there are varieties of comfort in position. The experienced voyager will prefer a chair that can be readily carried about on shore, and board. Deck chairs it must be remem- livelong day, walking, standing, sitting, and ceeding a never-ceasing waste of tissue, which conditions of existence. It is true the period of meat and drinks. Light wines , weak, spirits, and the flesh of birds rather than of beasts will render the trip through the tropics all the more enjoyable. The passenger at sea spends much of his life in the open air. his first appearance in the morning is for an airing on deck. purposes he will have judiciously supplied himself with a pair of slippers and also of pyjamas. These latter, thin flannel trousers (and jacket), are invaluable both for these daily purposes and in the tropics for that sleeping on deck which is often so pleasant and so health-giving. It is well to adopt the precaution of always sleeping in flanzzel garments. This is an absolute necessity if one would avoid cholera and other tropical illnesses. It is advisable to avoid sleeping in the direct rays of the moon. Neuralgia with various unpleasant results, such as contortions of the features, are often popularly attributed to the action of the moon's rays upon the sleeper's face. To this we would add the explanation of the sceptics, that the moon is brightest when the sky is clear, and that when the sky is clear the dew is heaviest. Thus, whether it be the mischievous moon or the wicked dew, the wise will always pick a berth with something between them and the bare heavens. The awning supplies this. when out in the open sea. chair. The fixed seats are all very well way, always the way of the moment; the sun, . are in their but that way is not and the shade and the breeze that is not liable to become wet on bered are always left on deck. The 16 THE PASSENGER. VE it k e r C 1 stately matron is beside herself in the preparation of the necessary materials and “properties.” destined sooner or later to fall into the habit. of the passengers may be accurately gauged by noting at the outset of the good, but better is the wooden framework that supports a removable canvas seat. In the event of a sudden shower the seat may thus be kept properly dry by being taken below, and this can be done every night. Then is there not only no danger of the chair being found wet from rain, spray, dew, or the deck-washing, but the chair will be found unoccupied. The popular idea with the inexperienced is, that a sea voyage represents a blank in one's life, a period when all are helping each other to do nothing or hindering each other from doing nothing. The novel sensations of living cooped up with a "miscellaneous lot” of human beings cut off from all the world with nothing but sea and sky to look upon are a three days' wonder, but after that the everlasting sea horizon loses its charms, and then attention is turned to the little world within the ship. After the first two or three days passengers brighten up; more attention is paid to dress; the old hands begin to settle down ; and the first great business of the voyage commences, the finding out all one can about everybody else. The well of public in- formation on this point is soon pumped dry, and the important question remains how are the remaining five weeks to be passed. The very first point that will strike the "new chum " is the sudden melting of the first excessive civility and politeness—not into rudeness—but into childlike familiarity. Sailors are frequently compared to children—and whether it be the ozone, or the severance from the busy world, or what not, there is a purity and childlike freshness out on the ocean which seems from the first to infect the whole ship's company. This is specially visible in the relaxations that gradually become fashionable—nay, universal. Old men and giddy girls, staid matrons and young men, suddenly find them- selves enjoying with infinite zest pastimes that on shore have long been relegated to the schoolroom and the nursery. The exalted colonial governor enters with boyish spirit into makeshift theatricals; the dignified young lady, to her own surprise, revives her childish delight in “port;" the young clerk finds an evening's amusement in “sling the monkey ;” and the pièce de resistance in exercise, is pacing the deck. Every one is The relative sea experience The invas perly THE PASSENGER. 17 inconceivable amount of excitement. the der, lon is an invariable warmer in sea In this the “monkey” form of sea exercise. But introduce all the combined lawn tennis, of a cautious the added interest of the Bull,” the pitching of lumps It admits of more skilled play than any other some of the kind which can ve learned at sea, and affords exercise for both sexes. Hopping races, walking backwards, races for girls, for boys, for crawling babies, handicaps of every conceivable description -in short, any and every trial of strength and skill for passengers, married, single, old, young, and for the crew, may be arranged into a most attractive not the least elements in the enjoyment Last, but not least among the exercises, dancing holds high rank voyage their readiness to fall into this inevitable :s monotony is soon relieved. Cricket, and even rind, are readily improvised; circles of rope excitement of quoits, bowls, and curling, with rolling of the ship. “Dumps," sometimes called lead on a figured board, yields an Of the most boisterous games hop-scotch Cold weather. “Sling the monkey” is more essentially a stout rope with a loop at the lower end is made fast to the “rigging" so . A is to hang over the deck clear of the side rail. takes his seat-he and the players are armed alike either with knotted Tandkerchiefs or bâtons of canvas stuffed with straw. The monkey is Set swinging, and the players and he endeavour to strike one another. The player touched by the monkey succeeds to the seat of honour. It is a mirth-provoking spectacle, and greatly relished by the actors themselves. Gymnastic efforts of various kinds are at times popular-chalking the mark is a special favourite, when there is much motion. With his two feet uphung in a loop of rope, the player starting from behind a line endeavours to chalk his farthest from it, and return again behind it, being allowed the while to touch the deck with the palms of his hands only. Many and amusing are the catastrophes. High co ckalorum, and even cock-fighting have been known to afford the much desired exercise. Much may be done for all concerned, for actors as well as possess requisite experience constitute themselves a committee to organise a regular athletic meeting. , , , (and duly advertised) two days' Athletic senting of appropriate prizes are not and success of the recreations. 0 spectators, if two or three who Sports. The making up and pre- the с 18 THE PASSENGER. Matches are played off in heats by the best of three rubbers, the winning become very popular. backgammon, calm moonlight nights of the tropics, and the spacious deck lending themselves to this truly enjoyable pastime. A most popular method of relaxation on board is the getting up of set entertainments. Chief of these, theatricals soon make all idle hands busy, and create for the time a most vigorous entente cordiale among the whole ship's company. Given a few short plays, with a passenger or two cunning in such matters, and the thing is as good as done. If there be available musical talent, burlesques should be attempted, inasmuch as good and not harm arises from the parts being overacted or underacted. Moreover, the dresses are, from their very outlandishness, easy to make up. This dress- making business will be greedily undertaken by the lady portion of the passengers. The attempt is usually made to turn such an entertainment to good account on behalf of some desirable institution connected with sailors. The best means to this end is the getting up of programmes in the best style and colour by the aid of the artistic talent and the colour-boxes to be found among the passengers. Flaming posters, and well-got-up sandwich- men, add to the general stir ; stage and scenery with footlights are readily arranged in consultation with the ship's authorities. One of the most lively of amusements is the organising of fancy dress ball, a heavy tax being levied, for the benefit of charity, on all who fail to appear in Concerts and Christy Minstrel entertainments depend for success on the presence of appropriate Among the more sober efforts of relaxation, games are of course at a premium, especially in the cooler portions of the voyage. There is usually very good whist-playing on board. To discover who are “ scientific," it is not unusual for some old hand, in the early days of the voyage, to propose a whist tournament. Four or five simple conditions are written out; names are invited, with a small entrance fee. All who enter then draw lots for partnerships, and this coupling remains permanent through the tournament. pairs in each heat drawing lots for the next heat. Such tournaments Similar matches are organised in chess, draughts, and forth. It is not unusual for literary spirits on board to break out in a news- a set some costume. talent. so THE PASSENGERNG . 19 If personalities ble Rot a far more intellectual kind. she There is the ship her- the Ito score of the more practical comes a run on all stores clves mirrored with due journalistic accuracy and virus. world on board find them- comes to a bad end. an opportunity for becoming -i-a perfect study-leading on the one hand into abstruse mechanics d mathematical problems, and on the other away into the vastnesses of It may be well that we should here remind the passenger that under the totally distinct conditions of life at sea, the subject of conduct has special force. In the captain resides autocratic power for the time being; the law has always upheld the captain, in taking action necessary to the safety and good discipline of the ship, even to the extent of holding that "conduct unbecoming a gentleman ” is sufficient to justify the exclusion of a passenger from the saloon, The captain can legally take sufficient measures to prevent a passenger from interfering with the discipline and superintendence of the ship, or the per-an “Editor's Box” is the sign—and then of foolscap. The various phases of the little irc not scrupulously avoided, the paper soon There is abundant occupation, too, of Indeed, for those who will, the sea voyage is icquainted with a new world of work and nature astronomy, and always full of interest on the camanship. There are the air and sky, the great playground of that im- portant force—the weather ; a force that can be studied at sea in its natural simplicity, free of all those irregularities of surface and local peculiarities which give to it on shore its protean character. There is the sea itself, teeming with a marvellous animal world of its own; for the most part of a special and distinct character when once land is out of sight. ght. For the artist there are effects that can only be witnessed away from the disturbing land, although Mr. Oscar Wilde has pronounced the Atlantic “disappointing." The “navy blue” of the deep sea must be seen to be conceived ; the cloud- me effects due to the presence of an all-round horizon are unique; and no one has scudded before a gale over a mountainous sea without noting these strange resemblances to the swelling downs of the dry land. For him who would study man, the little world of the ship offers ample opportunity. During the voyage, the many interesting places sighted, or touched at, will impress the great lessons of history with a vividness unknown to mere book- dy learning ; of great assistance in all these natters is the appropriately selected library to be found on all the Orient steam ers. is , “ Es, a ves or . C 2 20 THE PASSENGER. r trained in their profession, and who owe their position to the rule of the examinations severe. occasions of much intricacy and difficulty. Indeed, among other evil prophecies that harbingered the opening of the Suez Canal, most prominent were those which tuld cf the fatal difficulties of navigation in the Red Sea. comfort of any one on board. That this authority is seldom called into exercise is due to the fact that the ship's company, crew as well as pas- sengers, are altogether determined to fall in with, and to maintain a state of affairs most suited to all on board. Purposely and expressly the captain curbs all demonstrations that run to excess, whether in politics, in religion, or, in its larger sense, immorality. Regulations have been devised, and are strictly enforced, providing for the health, comfort, and safety of those on board. Unnecessary noise during sleeping hours, impeding the crew in any way, usurping public accommodation for private purposes, are instances of what might occur, were not such regulations in active force. The The passengers will of themselves seek to preserve the amenities of social intercourse; if only from the strictly selfish standpoint of their own personal enjoyment. And there has always been a wise tendency to remember that available accom- modation on a steamer is physically limited; that the number of servants, for instance, is restricted by this condition ; and that except they were allotted specified duties, and specified times, from which there can be no departure, the domestic service of the ship must fall hopelessly and disastrously out of gear. Fun and frolic will always find their favoured home at sea; and this pleasant ebullition of good nature for the time develops the kindlier in- stincts, and more genial sympathies of social intercourse, and promotes a spirit of compromise and a readiness to respect the sentiments and rights of others. Divine service is held on board regularly on Sundays. Passengers having the requisite musical gifts can contribute a valuable and much appreciated support by forming a volunteer church choir. The necessary practising for this purpose helps also to pass the time pleasantly. A few words may be added on the not unimportant item of the relation- ship of passengers and crew. The brains of the ship are the captain and his officers, and these, it is well to remember, are a group of men long survival of the fittest. The competition is keen, and the Board of Trade But the work is of serious responsibility, and on various But the into pas- SEAMANSHIP. of Kain waters speaks volumes for the 21 wd. pay, anging from the boatswain and nat department will It is of in- 們​則​。 aly And The right camanship and skill in navigation of the officers belonging to the British as the “black gang,” and on foot to develop what may Officers and men of the mercantile marine now THE average landsman regards as convertible the two terms Navigation and Seamanship, and yet there is all the difference in the world between their significations. Navigation tells us where we are, and in which direction ship according to the direction shown by navigation, and of properly handling The term “aft” means towards the stern; rarity of accidents in that most intricate of Mercantile Marine Service. The muscles of the ship are the “hands," his A. B.'s, to the firemen and enginemen, known the busy hard-working members of the steward's terest to note that a successful movement is be called a seagoing militia. join the Royal Naval Reserve, and are called out for drill periodically. men will, in time of war, form an invaluable addition to the regular forces These of the country, and it is to be hoped the number will increase. to fly the blue ensign is granted to ships whose captains, with a definite proportion of their crew, belong to this R.N.R. We have attempted in this chapter briefly to point out briefly to point out that he who contemplates a trip by the Orient Line will find the six weeks' voyage more than occupied with the various novel forms of relaxation, and with the new stores of knowledge and methods of acquisition that open out before him. It is one purpose of this Guide to provide introductory epitomes, each written by an acknowledged acknowledged authority, to the various entertaining, interesting, or useful fields of inquiry which the voyage between Europe and Australia affords. We thus present to the passenger a variety of methods of making the most of his few weeks at sea accord. ing to his special bent and inclination. Or CHAPTER 11.-SEAMANSHIP. to go to get to somewhere else. her under all circumstances which may arise. se ܫ ܚ ܫ ܚ ܚ ܬ bow; forward,” towards the 22 SEAMANSHIP. on her side, the breeze wil have a more sensible effect. the long wedge-shaped hull of the vessel possible for a vessel to sail faster than the wind travels. sail set, steaming nine knots an hour before a wind which of ten miles an hour will experience very little wind, but if the wind comes and port and starboard side mean respectively the left and the right hand sides of the ship looking forward. Poops, or raised quarter-decks aft, have disappeared altogether in ocean passenger steamers; and the topgallant fore- castle, which in the old days balanced in the bows the poop in the stern, has gone with it. The officers pace the navigating bridge now instead of the quarterdeck as of old. On deck and below become the substitutes of up stairs and down stairs ; and the light is admitted below by skylights, ports, and scuttles, the two latter being situated in the ship's sides. The masts and rigging stretch away skywards, ready to spread sail should the wind be favourable or the engine need a little attention. The uninitiated are puzzled by the network they see above them of ropes and spars, and yet there is a strange simplicity reigning aloft, and it is no long lesson to learn the use and name of each rope. There is the standing rigging, i.e., the shrouds and stays, which are the fixed supports of the masts, and there is the "running rigging" by which sails are hoisted and lowered and trimmed. All this “top-hamper” of rigging is a direct drawback when steaming against the wind; but public opinion is not yet prepared for the mastless steamers for which engineers already contend. Sailing is an art that will long be necessary at sea. It depends on com- bining two natural forces. The ship floating in the water has above her hull planes of canvas stretched so that the wind presses on them. Now if the keel is in the same line as the direction of the wind, and the plane of the sails be placed at right angles to the line of the keel, it is obvious the ship will be driven through the water at a less speed than the wind blows, because of the resistance of the water. But this is not the fastest sailing. Suppose the wind to blow at right angles to the line of keel, and the plane of the sails be placed obliquely to the line of the keel, and in the direction of the wind; then the wind pressing the vessel's side against the resisting water the lateral resistance greatly exceeds the direct resistance ; between these forces the line of least It is thus i.e., in the line of the keel at A steamer, with moves at the rate resistance, a great speed. The ship will then Aand have and uld ted yet f e i SEAMANSHIP. 23 nevertheless make her way Plying to windward." This is to say, by following a zig-zag on the other. The side on The nots an hour, though the wind is still only direction as the wind, she When the wind blows from the direction in vind blows on her side, she across the masts. the deck combined. The lowest are the "courses," the next above “top- with the prefix of fore, main, or mizen according to the mast they if on only two of the three she is foremast she is “schooner while if there be square sails on the foremast, with only a square topsail on the mainmast, she is a "barquantine." Then if she have only two go perhaps eleven or 'twelve knots an travelling at a rate of ten knots. If the vessel is travelling in the same is said to be “ running.” But when the is said to be “reaching.” which the ship is bound, a sailing ship can towards her destination by what is called effected by "beating” or “tacking,” that is course, with the wind first on one side then which the wind blows is the “weather” side, and the other the “lee... “scuppers” or deck gutters, on the lee side become receptacles for all that is dropped or upset, animate or inanimate. A word or two may be well on the motions of the ship-such “rolling," "pitching,” and “ scending." Rolling occurs when the two sides. of the ship play see-saw ; steamers roll more than sailing vessels for sails a great steadying power. Pitching occurs when the two. ends of the vessel play see-saw. Scending is a modification of pitching, and occurs when the vessel is bodily taken up by a huge "sea,” which carries or “scends” the vessel along down its declivity with a sort of cornerwise motion which gives the idea of great speed. It is obvious that all these motions. diminish in intensity with the size of the vessel, and are comparatively little felt, even in heavy gales, on large steam ers. It is perhaps hardly necessary to say much of the sails on a steamer, save to explain briefly the chief terms applicable to them. Of sails there are two main classes, the “square ” and the “fore and aft" sails. The square: are those that are stretched on yards that are placed They take their names from the mast sails,” and above them “top-gallant-sails,” A three-masted vessel, with square sails technically known as “ship rigged ;” barque rigged ;” if on only the as are they are on and their height from and so to “ royals” and “sky-sails,” are on. on all three masts, is >> masts 24 SEAMANSHIP. the advance of steam. a sent up "all flying," i.e. yard, and sail hoisted right away from the deck to the truck, and there set to catch light airs aloft when it is calm below. these picturesque devices are becoming things of the past, giving way before she is “brig rigged” if there be square sails on both, and “brigantine if these exist only on the foremast, and a “topsail schooner” if there be a topsail on the foremast. These technical names belong to all vessels, whether steamers or not, because all vessels are described by their rig. Many vessels, however, only carry “ fore and aft" sails, or sails attached up and down the mast and spread in a fore and aft direction. Such a vessel with three masts is a "three-masted schooner," with two a “schooner.” If with only one mast she is a “cutter," if there be two “head” sails, or sails before the mast; and a "sloop ” if there be only one of these sails. The Lateen rig, so often seen in the Mediterranean, is formed by a stumpy mast bearing forward and supporting a yard of enormous length with a triangular sail. It is picturesque rig but not good in stormy latitudes. Some of the latest built Orient steamers have four masts, the aftermost of which is called the “jigger mast." The passenger will notice the fore and aft sail on the lower mast, stretched out on a "gaff” above and sometimes on a "boom" below. On masts that may be “square-rigged,” i.e. having yards across them, these sails become the trysails; fore, main, or mizen according to mast. If the masts are not “square-rigged” they become simply the “mainsail,” &c. Other fore and aft sails are called “stay-sails.” These, as their name implies, are set on the "stays,” i.e. strong ropes extending from the upper end of the masts towards the bow of the ship. These stays take their name from the mast to which they are attached—as the “main stay,” the “foretopmast stay,' and so forth; and the “stay-sails” are named from the “stay” on which they may be set. These sails are triangular in shape ; those of their kind that are set on to the bowsprit, if bowsprit there be, may at times be called jibs.” There are other sails that the steamer passenger may see, not on his own ship but on others which he will fall in with on the voyage. Such as “ studding sails " set at the side of the square sails in fine light winds ; and he may see at the same time “water sails ” hung under the booms, and moonscrapers ” But IN 2ND SALOON CABINS LOWEST NUMBERS ARE UPPER BERTHS . S. S"IBERIA" & S. S.“LIGURIA A9 87 88 91 92| bi 92 PANTRY 83 84 4445 48 49 1245 46 47 54 59 60 65 66 52) 57 581 64 171 72 69 70 KALOON 29 90 175 76 ENGINE HATCH 2012 GALLLT 13 14 3233 27 28 21 22 15 16 432 29 30 23 24 17 19 LADIES 10 Lo 197 98401 104 105 106 109 110 ATAR IN IST SALOON CABINS ODD NUMBERS ARE UPPER BERTHS. 2011 129 18 19 25 OL 113 114 117 1187121 122 115 01112 LC19 120 196 199 100 03 104 107 108 B75113 1 14 46T 12 13 2 2NO SALOON 37 38 4651 29 320 LO 13 35 361 43 422/49 50 156 57 123 127 128 131 132 135 136 homo 148 147 148 D D 1744 144,45 146 149 150 39 40 41 47 48 54 55 1240 133 134 137 138 125 126 129 130 olololo SEAMANSHIP. being obliged to look aloft and trace the particular rope to its “belaying-pin " aj the pulling and hauling, is The simplest uninitiated will like to classify Coir, Manilla, and Hemp ropes. “Coir" (pronounced kye-ar) is made from the are manufactured. There are fibrous husks of the cocoa-nut; “Manilla" from the leaf stalks of the plantain ; kind is used in the work for which it may be best adapted. “Coir" is strong, “Hemp” is ordinary rope dressed with tar, sometimes called “Europe.” Each stiff and elastic; “Manilla" weaker but pliable when dry; "Europe" stronger There is also wire rope, used for standing the square sails by the means of “braces” or ropes from the ends of the yards to the ship's side ; and with fore and aft sails by the aid of the "sheets” that connect either the “boom, or the lower corner of the sail It is obvious that as nearly all the ropes lead to the deck the seaman should have a familiar knowledge of the exact position of each rope, without or fastening place, on deck, for usually there is no time to trace it, and From sails we turn naturally to ropes. The them according to the material of which they but not so pliable as “Manilla.” rigging and warps. The saving of labour, so essential in all effected by the aid of blocks (on shore known as pulleys). method, called a “whip,” is a single rope rove through a single block to lift or move light articles. More complicated arrangements of blocks and ropes are called tackles (pronounced taykles), and power is gained in proportion to the number of blocks used in connection with the rope. Every rope in a ship is named. The sails are hoisted and lowered by halyards ;” they are spread out by ropes termed “sheets;” they are gathered in by “clew lines," "bunt lines,” and “leach lines," ropes fastened to the lower corners, bottoms, and sides of the sails. Sail is “taken in ” by hauling upon these various "lines" or ropes. It is then, if need be, “furled” or “stowed " by being rolled up neatly and closely, and bound by“ gaskets” or ties. “Shortening sail” is the reduction of the area exposed to the wind. This is done by “clewing up,” “furling,” or “stowing” some of the sails, and by " reefing or lessening the size of others; an operation performed by rolling or folding up part of the sail, and keeping it so ropes fixed to the sail for the purpose. of the sails at the requisite angle to the with the deck. by means of “reef points,” short Trimming sail” is keeping the plane wind. This is accomplished with more 26 SEAMANSHIP. the whole arrange- often than not he ment is, however, use of every rope coiling of them. out of the way, without entanglement. with all other things, up “ with the hands miss to see the rope length is shaken near has to work in the dark night; simple; and a landsman may easily learn the name and in sight without the need of a glance aloft. There is another important item in regard to the ropes, and that is the They have lengths that must be kept on deck, at once and in a form ready for use, that is for running out the wrong leads to kinks, loss of temper, and may be, to disaster. flemishing down. familiarity with mediums exposed, the aid of S1 Ch their simplicit (perhaps the east But as For these purposes they are coiled down. there is a wrong and a right way of “coiling ;” and Nearly all ropes are laid right-handed,” and, to avoid kinks, must be coiled down of the clock.” Any one may detect the amateur coiler by observing him any one of the following precautions. The first thing is well fast on its “belaying pin ;” next, the whole of its out over the deck; then the sailor begins to coil as The down, and must be taken by the side furthest from the The rope will then be ready for use. and other holidays, when weather permits, it is customary to the deck in flat discs of various elegant devices; this is termed two may be acceptable on knots. Many a man and woman high practical value ashore, and especially in the bush, of a knots. A trip at affords capital opportunity for useful knowledge. Burglars have been secured, and spirit animals captured, and endless traces, stirrups, and break- 11, temporarily but efficiently and immediately repaired by knowledge. The sailor uses some half dozen hitches and makes them at once handy, easy of making, and reliable. aful hitches are the " clove," "timber," and “ rolling hitches; making fast the ends of ropes to anything. The “ figure "bowline” respectively make a knot and a loop at The “reef-knot,” the "fisherman's bend,” the “sheet bend” known but the most useful of all) and the “hawser bend,” Le necessary to make one rope's end fast to another. The ope is ably reduced by the “ Sheepshanks.” None cf the toil pin as possible, continuing his work until the end comes to hand. coil is then upside pin and overturned, On Sundays lay the ropes on A word or has found the acquiring this sea downs genera The most us invaluable for of eight” an the end of rol are all that length of a SEAMANSHIP. 27 ad he ice jut as nd all above mentioned knots will jam no matter what the strain upon them, it. they can be readily undone,) and they can, with practice, be quickly sicd. We mention their names, that the passenger may before the voyage is over become acquainted with them. Of ornamental knots and plaits and so forth there is no end, and idle tingers may find many less useful occupations than practising them. Occa- sion may be taken also of the opportunity to learn the simple and useful accomplishment of splicing or joining ropes together so that the join hardly shows. There is much interest in watching the manœuvring of a vessel. The course or direction of a ship in motion is speedily affected by the move- ment of the rudder. Small and of apparent insignificance it nevertheless holds almost absolute sway over the action of a vessel that is moving through the water. "Like a thought it has control O'er the movement of the whole.” vn by is its ar he he to d in a it y Although a steamer of 455 feet length has a rudder only 7 feet 6 inches wide, yet that small width alters immediately the direction taken by that great length. The rudder itself is “hung” or hinged upon the sternpost, and its “hcad " penetrates through the decks to where the “tiller” or “helm” can be con- veniently attached as a handle to turn the rudder. When a vessel moves swiftly through the water great pressure bears upon the rudder, therefore mechanical appliances must be adopted to move it with the required ease. If the tiller of such a large steamer as above instanced were worked by as it is in small boats and yachts, it would take the united efforts of some twenty men to keep command over it. But by the aid of steam, or hydraulic machinery, the largest ships can be steered by one man. It is necessary to remember that the terms applied to steering are used as though the helm or tiller itself were worked without any of these appliances. Indeed, by the words starboard and larboard, we are carried back to the old Norse days when the steering was done by a large oar; and the “helm's-man” stood on a raised platform. On his right as he starboard,” and to his left was the “larboard." But etymologists are at variance as to whether “star” means “this,” or hand, ; e looked forward was the 28 SEAMANSHIP. As steering” side ; and there is yet greater antagonism over the the two words are similar in sound, but directly opposite not surprising that this was found confusing. It was not, year 1845 that the English Admiralty took the lead in d active volcanoes. Altitude and sea breezes make the climate healthy; and them. Nevertheless, vegetation of a tropical and subtropical character flourishes lux uriantly. The vine does well, and the islands have long been famed for their wine. It will interest Australians to know that one of the chief present exports, that of cochineal, was non-existent in 1831 ; and that now 400,000 kilogrammes of these minute dye-yielding insects are exported. This is a bird (Fringilla Canaria) still exists in large numbers, though the colour is greener than that of the yellow variety which has been bred in Europe THE CAPE ROUTE. 65 I dropped the book, and of my child I thought In his long black ship speeding night and day O'er those same seas; dark Teneriffe rose, fraught With omen : “Oh, were that mount passed !” I say, Then the door opens and this card is brought : “Reached Cape Verde Islands,-Lusitania." All this group of islands is of volcanic origin, and on some of them are is remarkably dry. Some of the islands have at times no fresh water on el but most profitable industry. Soda is another great export. The canary- it no ring the last three centuries. These islands are a colony of Spain. They are interesting as containing any relics, historical and monumental, of an older race of inhabitants—the uanches, whom the Spaniards found in possession. These were men of grand zysique, and far advanced in civilisation, of the old eastern stock, connected Sth the Arabs who had pushed westwards, and possessed high moral and tellectual calibre. Their knowledge of embalming has preserved to us vidence of their good physical capabilities. Passing the Canaries, the passenger finds himself well within the trade vind regions. The steady perennial breeze curls the deep blue water into a Ceaseless ripple. There is nothing violent, but there is a sense of persistent ife and hurry. The ocean swell is not heavy, but it is perpetual; the waves are not high, but they are lively; and the steady wind drives a continual stream of "detached cirrus,” those small clouds that are invariably com- pared to flocks of unsheared sheep, across an otherwise clear blue sky. Shortly after leaving the Canaries, when latitude 23° is reached, the passenger is within the Tropics, and may have the sun over his head at noon. The F 66 THE CAPE ROUTE. a more saloons are neglected for the deck; and cabins deserted at night for improvisci sleeping quarters above. On fine nights, during the months of March and April, will now first be seen, a little above the horizon in the south, that small but brilliant constellation, the Southern Cross, with its two attendant stars, Alpha and Beta Centauri. The next land seen—800 miles from the Canaries—is the Cape De Verde group of islands. The steamer picks her way to one of the smallest of them-St. Vincent—but possessed of a good harbour in Porto Grande. The group is a colony of Portugal. There are ten islands, with population of some 100,000, though Europeans do not number than 10,000. All tropical products flourish well. The highest peak in the group is that of the active volcano in Fogo (9,760 feet). Here again a red dye, the orchil lichen, forms a profitable export, though it is a Government monopoly. The highest point in St. Vincent itself is only 1,000 feet above the sea; and the population of the island about 1,880. It has been called “a mountainous and utterly barren mass," and so it is to external appearance. The structure of the houses-iron-stone walls, bamboo rafters, and grass thatch—is peculiar. Water is often very scarce, and it is said that occasionally no rain falls during the whole of a year. Shortly after leaving St. Vincent, between July and September the north- east trade wind fails, and the steamer enters a belt of calms and variable winds known as the “Doldrums," that intervene between the N.E. and the S.E. trade winds. In the other months of the year the limit of the N.E. trade is found further to the southward. The cloud effects are grand in the extreme. Electrical discharges are frequent, and the usual calm surface of the water enables the observer to notice the myriads of “slimy things that crawl with legs upon the slimy sea." This zone, however, is soon crossed, and the passenger can sympathize with his fellow countrymen on the neighbouring West Coast of Africa, whose duty or interest calls them to live for about cight months of the year in such a climate. The S.E. trade wind is soon entered, and the “crossing of the line” attracts notice. The old customs that have been at once a delight and a terror to crew and passenger alike, and that grouped themselves round a traditional visit of Neptune to make the acquaint- ance of those who for the first time visited him at sea, are rapidly becoming memories of the past. One main cause of this is the speed with which PORTUGUESE POS sto Selle Roylife Zavora 25 sabis Isozamba Ispera Sokeroes Rest Chobis componwenlth, ophaat I Victoria UB 35 abastad Unins Ufug wieL. Hind MAQs Rist Infobo Mgonjobe 1997 Zarora R. Mafampeni Vdentisti BORSA Skdamini RA Mpungun Inhampura or Latupopo R. Nusroman Madam hela Zoperedada Medihomes n. Jlnak 1 Delagoa Bay 807 Кір Stapel Neweledon ronic asburg OnP Kosir Estrply Sordwana P. Vadkerstilnice SordonnaR trecht Uhamos itala Ama CV'ldal அருசெழம் Sinkopis Kraal Rare bindi s. Lucia Bay & Umrolosi R. imistele sem csflucia tai panguni Go tosh vol Tugela R. Albert Yaulaan burg Blackburra Paneli UpUrban, Port Natal & Umgeni R. Umlanir. we Umkomanzi R. Scottsbury Hesyndra Umtamkulu R. Polarburg im namfuna I. SUB. TEL UPS So arg Stene Stallen Preare edjuger muben und na ishini Sconto Vou gumbi E Sizducia aDindiua dela. U ugodiskraal lu Impuls ఇతరులు spoir 30 N entu R. R. mrimvubu R. 66 saloons are neį sleeping quarta April, will nou but brilliant c Alpha and Bet The next 1 group of islan them—St. Vin The group is population of than 10,000. the group is again a red dy a Government 1,000 feet abor has been called external appea rafters, and gra said that occas Shortly afte: east trade wint winds known á S.E. trade wij trade is found extreme. Elec the water enab crawl with legs the passenger c West Coast of months of the : and the cross been at once grouped themse ance of those u memories of ti 66 a THE CAPE ROUTE. 67 little and in It is 2,818 feet high, rocky, has a supply of fresh water, a tolerable roadstead, stationed on the unhealthy West Coast of Arica. Its dryness and freshness, the perpetual trade wind, make it far preferable as a storehouse, to the damp low shores of the adjacent continent. Turtle, and the eggs of “the tropical swallow,” are the chief commercial products. Further on, in the South Atlantic, 700 miles to the south-east of feet above the sea. With plenty of water, and balmy atmospheric surroundings, NapOleon, the island is of great historic interest ; Byron calls St. Helena * The proudest sea mark that o'ertops the wave!" The Emperor's remains between South Africa and Australia, viz., the difference of races: half the Proportion : the steamer now ploughs her way. There is neither time nor leisure to commcmorate such momentary events as the “Crossing the line." Steaming against the S.E. trades, the passenger will remember that on his right lies the small island of Ascension, a lonely rock near the middle of the South Atlantic, about 800 miles from Africa and 1,200 from America. This island is fitly entered in the British Navy List as a commissioned ship. has long been used as a recruiting ground for Her Majesty's ships Osion, the bold rocky island of St. Helena rises to the height of 2,700 land is particularly fertile. The fir and cinchona may be seen growing As the last residence, and for some time the grave, of transferred to France in 1840. The old prosperity of the island Saded on its supplying sailing vessels with water and provisions. n and the Suez Canal have robbed it of much of this trade. The has been in English possession for more than 200 years. Che trade wind is generally carried as far as latitude 30° S. The Ther becomes .cooler and more refreshing: and about 1,700 miles beyond Helena the African shore is approached, and Cape Paternoster and anha Bay sighted. In three or four hours Table Mountain is seen d, and, passing between Ribbon Island and the coast, the steamer anchors Cape Colony. - While the steamer remains at Cape Town much may be seen Chis mother city of the South African Colonies. Australians will be curious and will be at once struck by the fundamental difference , , : European, the Dutch claiming a large but the rest of the population is made up of Maic), Asce the side by side. wers de pe Stea islan wea St. Sald abea in able Bay. to view it, 68 THE CAPE ROUTE. Negro, and East Indian immigrants, together with the Hottentot and Kaffir natives. The town and immediate neighbourhood contain many objects of interest. The breakwater, harbour works, and graving docks, will teach Australians what enterprise can do. The various public buildings and institutions are superior of their kind. New Zealanders will like to inspect the library, and see the collection of rare manuscripts and old books presented by Sir George Grey when he was Governor. The suburbs of Cape Town are most picturesque, and well worth visiting. Table Mountain, 3,550 feet, with its flat top immediately over the town: its two supporters, the “Devil's Berg" on the right, and the “Lion's Head" on the left, are the first mountains of the peninsula of high land, which, commencing near Cape Town, trends down to the Cape of Good Hope, 30 miles to the south. To the north are the wide sandy flats that reach away to Simon's Town on the east, and to the mountains of “Hottentot Holland," on the north. On the slopes of Table Mountain are some of the most celebrated Cape vineyards. Constantia is only 1 miles distant. Lines of railway are rapidly spreading. Stellenbosch, 30 miles distant by rail, is an interesting specimen of a Dutch colonial town. If the Australian can so arrange, it will be well worth his while to stay in this neighbourhood over the interval between two steamers. He will then be able, at his leisure, to inspect the wine industries of the Cape, and to see for himself the specialty of ostrich farming and the Cape methods of sheep farming, including the pro- duction of mohair and the tending of Angora goats. In each case he may well hope to acquire knowledge of what to do or of what to avoid. He will find travelling easy and speedy, until he reaches the wildest parts; but these will have but little interest for him. Steaming out round the breakwater, the passenger obtains a fine view of Table Bay and its attendant mountains. Soon the cliff-like series of the “ Twelve Apostles” and the brilliantly-coloured mountains of the Peninsula . are passed, and the famous Cape of Good Hope itself rounded after a run of 30 miles. Then he crosses False Bay, within which is the Imperial naval station, and follows the coast to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of Africa. Thoughts are carried to the mainland; and it is remembered that along this coast, now trending away out of sight to the northeastward, are the THE CAPE ROUTE. 69 Scene. Southern Ocean to Australia, the mountainous swell that pursues its way round and round the world in this great southern circle of water, at once arrests the attention, more especially of those who can appreciate what is grand in Nature. that attend on the ship will add a novel interest and new life to the the Crozet, and Kerguelen Islands. rapidly growing ports of Mossel Bay, Port Alfred, and East London. Port Elizabeth is there also, the second town—and the greatest commercial emporium in South Africa. The Southern Ocean to Australia.-The world outside the steamer has now completely changed; and for the 16 days' run across the great To them, as to others, the sudden multitude of birds The rude southern swell does, however, break on sundry groups of To the southward of the steamer's course lie the Prince Edward, These islands are, for the most part, Icanic, and bold in outline. The latter alone contains good harbours. On em is found a not inconsiderable supply of food in the shape of wild ck, seals, and an edible wild cabbage. Tolerable coal has also been found; d there is much peat. On Kerguelen's Island was successfully established Y some time the scientific expedition to watch the transit of Venus in 1874. o the northward of the steamer's course are the two isolated ocean islands Paul and Amsterdam, also volcanic in origin, sterile and bold in outline. was on St. Paul that the crew of the sinking Megæra established themselves Il rescued. Speedily and surely the steamer ploughs her way until in longitude 115° E. he passes the meridan of Cape Leeuwin and fairly enters the Great ustralian Bight. This “Bay of Biscay of Australia" lies between King George's Sound and Adelaide. Its shores, for the most part sandy and aste, are the scene of the heroic journey of Mr. Eyre, who was a whole year struggling over the distance of 1,200 miles. Such remembrances of the enterprise and pluck of the pioneer colonists in the vast continent of fit preparation for the first land-fall, and for thc coming to an anchor off the port of Melbourne or Adelaide as the case islands. vo tb de a a Australia, form may be. 70 THE SUEZ ROUTE. sisters. weather is still squally and unsettled with frequent calms, ber, just within the region of north-west or middle monsoon between and March, and on a bee-line from Cape Leeuwin to the Orient Line have established a coaling station. the southern and principal island of the group, the Managers of CHAPTER V.—THE SUEZ ROUTE. As already said, the Orient Steamers commonly take the route vid Suez on the outward voyage to Australia as well as homewards. It will, however, suffice to describe this route from the point of view of a passenger returning to Great Britain. Cape Leeuwin to Aden.-Bound for Europe, the last glimpse of Australia is of the bold highlands around Cape Leeuwin. A few days after this the smooth waters of the south-east trades are entered ; and as the steamer heads away from Australia, thoughts linger in speculation whether Western Australia also is destined suddenly to leap ahead and rival her more eastern Between November and April the south-east trade fails in about latitude 9° S., and the north-west or middle monsoon is entered—a belt of light north-west winds, with squalls, rain and frequent calms. Soon after crossing the equator the steamer passes into the north-east monsoon, the wind veers round to that quarter, and so continues with fine and settled weather until Aden is reached. From May to October the south-east trade is generally experienced until near the latitude of 2° S., when the wind veers round to the southward and westward as the steamer enters the region of the south-west mon soon. Here the wind blows steadily and fiercely from the south-west, with bad weather in June and July, but moderates in August. After passing Cape Guarda fui and entering the Gulf of Aden the force of the monsoon is less followed at times by strong breezes from the west and south-west. Diego Garcia.–On the edge of the south-east trade frorn I a group of coral islands, known as the Chagos Archipelago. having The company their willingness to coal the steaners of the royal navy as well as the Admiralty sent H.M.S. Eclipse to verify or correct previous felt; but the April to Septem October Aden, lies At Diego Garcia, express their ed of the parallel of Sea. co March. Winds in the Indian Ocean. Fptember, Moderate and Fine, Blows and from Oce and May; N.E. MONSOO- in zich Moder S.W. MONSOON- July, and August- Typhoons from 40 S., and veering to the S. W. between the meredian of 800 E. CHINA Ses. Noy. ENSOON. und Fine. 150°E BAY OF BENGAL. November to March. N.E. MONSOON. 70 ONSOON, rcely, with r in June 165 E 180°E roderating and July; moderating gust. clones in May to September. S.W. MONSOON. 50 October to APOI Deca fresh in Nos and gam- per the Equator and the Parallel ber to March. May to MIDDLE MONSOON. S.E. TRADE squalls, rains and Light Ims. From the Sey- with frequent the African northward coast Monsoon prevails. and coast of Sumatra. tween the Parallels of 100 and 27° S. ANT S.E. TRADB. Cyclones from Dec. to May to September with rain, June in 30 July to NEW GUINEẢ Tarre of 100 S. VUNG September Norñrzand SOUTHWARD PROGRESS OF THE April AB Petridis: TO IT As alr on the ou suffice to to Great ] October i Garcia, expressed Cape 2 awi Australia sisters. latitude 9 light nort crossing t wind veer weather u From near the West ward the wind in June a and enter the weath by Diego Septembe is of the smooth wi heads لا times a group the Orien their Oivn - THE SUEZ ROUTErepeated . by Occasional) Providing means of their the purpose. otherwise situated om sed British possessions in for commercial the Company they sent for the harbour, and is favourably its sata an tha from Aden. The Company lease~ provided for surveys, a process which the centre of the Cape Leeuwin, 1,16 cocoa-nut plantatioT from Calcutta, 2,873 Under European super 150,000 gallons. divided among three Mauritius planting Companies. marked feature of the group The climate is remarkably healthy fos brackish; but fish is abundant, and poultry and pigs are plentiful. of rats inhabit the cocoa-nut trees and levy a heavy tax upon their produc The temperature rarely exceeds the few degrees narrow wall of coral surrounding a one mile in width. rapidly dwindling in numbers. in length, and about 5 miles in breadth; the a coral island of the Atoll ” between 770 and 85° Fahrenheit. build by separating the particles of carbonate lime leavings of its ancestors. and forming them into in circumference, and as the its original foundations, a gradually decrease perpendicularly on the ultimate peak of the subsiding island, and we have A remarkable feature of these atolls is their with the opening to leeward of the prevailing the general drift of the water the water which passes to leeward, been sieved of its lime. The Chagos Islands form, with the thirty Seychelles Mauritius. These latter islands are the nuts, which before the discovery of these islands, both from It forms The а Coral coral surveying officer, whom some land, buoyed navigation The island strategic purposes, lying near Indian Ocean; 2,136 miles from Mauritius, and 2,085 soil is poor, the wate swarm once oil, amounting now to about th Land-crabs, turtles, and birds, centr entrand ili The visitor wis formed by a miles of mass an little over here in perfection agglutinated typ lim eas the 'subsiding." As such tropics, and agreeable. "play Diego Garcia, lagoon, is 13 to the lagoon being interested to The coral from the salt generation growing coral is formed see insects salt water island that is continues islan to arov ring of formed is up upon Round an what is generally winds. termed horseshd oe This is lime speak, fresh due to so to atoll. A shape, probably windward, whereas home of has, so of th declar cocoa. found vth. a Of been elanop snout grow drifting on the water, and were consequently had only 6 be be a sea o Od 72 THE SUEZ ROUTE. made a treaty with the local «! and rocky flats. It is the Gibraltar of the Red Sea and an excellent and capacious harbour. peninsula of Aden itself and of Little Aden opposite, and also coast-line three miles broad; two thousand years ago it was celebrated as a thirteenth centuries, it was an opulent trade emporium ; after that its prosperity led, till, in the earlier years of this century, it was no more In 1837 a Madras ship was wrecked in the bay and piliaged; this Socotra.-A run of 1,653 miles from Diego Garcia, across the tropical Indian Ocean, brings the steamer in sight of land again at the island of Socotra. This island, about 80 miles long, and 20 broad, consists of a table-land, or plateau, 800 feet above the sea level—from which rise granite ridges, to a height of 4,656 feet. There is a native population of about 5,000 keeping flocks and herds, and cultivating the best aloes in the world, as well as many of the choicest gums and herbs. In 1876, England ” subsidy, he agreed that no foreign settlement should be made without the consent of the British government. The steamer's course lies between the western end of Socotra and Cape Guardafui, the most eastern point of Africa. Arab dhows may here be seen, and thoughts will revert to the liberal support given by England to the suppression of the slave trade, simply in the interests of humanity and of sympathetic kindness to the various native races of Africa that have hitherto been the victims of this nefarious traffic. Aden.—Rounding Cape Guardafui a run of 376 miles brings the steamer to Aden, the centre of British influence in this part of the world. On the opposite coast of Africa the Italians are endeavouring to found a Colony to introduce the thin end of the wedge of European civilisation and order. Away to the right trends the coast of Arabia-civilised from the most ancient times; but never attaining to any great prosperity or popula- It was along this coast that not many years ago was discovered in the tomb of a “Princess” an inscription supposed by some to detail her visit to Joseph in Egypt. is Aden English settlement on a rocky and barren volcanic peninsula, rising to a height of 1,770 feet, separated from the mainland by commands British authority extends over the strip stronghold; in the time of Constantine and again in the , tion. an sandy over a of milita twelfth and dwind village THE SUZZ 73 ROUTE. lighthouse standing 250 feet above the sea. It on are still to be were constructed miles along a The previou water. but been thoroughly years' consumption. The distillation of changed. is brought the place under the Dominion of the East India Company ; its subsequent growth was rapid and is again a great trade centre. good road from the occupants of Aden constructed an aqueduct from garrison occupies the main town water, but the soil is fertile, and Ihese were in a extensive scale the whole aspect the main land, remains of which nethod now adopted for the supply of In the twelfth century great tanks crater to collect rain English took possession, in the pace thrown Overboard-a far easier operation than it first the fact that these divers have apparently no also, as in many ports in tropical latitudes, the natives surround the ship variety of goods crowd off and display their fear of sharks-indeed, occasionally, human being and shark may be seen to remind intending purchasers that the price wily merchant intends to take back with will often be found ready just before the wares on deck. asked is but little indication be worth while noticing that the him ashore a certain sum in exchange for his goods, therefore if he makes some good bargains at first he steamer sails to part with the remainder of his goods at really cheap prices Guarding its Maribou trimmings are a The Red Sea.-A run of about 90 miles from Aden takes the steamet volcanic in its origin, about three miles long by one mile wide, with a now it has some 30,000 inhabitants and wisely kept as a free port. The English situated in an extinct crater some five Port. The great need of the district is if irrigation could be resorted to on an and atmosphere of the place would be seen the isthmus. in the gorges of the have repaired. When full three the -are at which they row the visitor ashore. through the water very slowly. of what will be finally accepted. specialty of Aden. entrance stands the little island of Perim was physically a fine Arab race; and their Somalis sea Here they hold sufficient for a water fresh from the place. The pas- The natives—the vigour is seen and dive for coins a senger will note with curiositat under water in close proximize The island first occupied to the Red Sea. 74 THE SUEZ ROUTE. north. length, and of great and varied interest. The in dustry still flourishes and makes for the whole world a sort of perfection in coffee. Thirty-five miles further on, the Hanish are found after which on the right hand are passed the guano islands of in a state of eruption. It was ascended in 1837 by Major Leveson. Jebel Zukur, and Zebayer, and the volcano of Jebel Teir, sometimes, but rarely, the left of Massowah and the port of Annesley Bay—the scene expedition in 1867, when England spent no less than £6,000,000 for her flag in savage countries. The Egyptian Government exercises by the British in 1799 ; and is now guarded by a small garrison from Aden. The channel is narrow between Perim and the Arabian coast, the breadth being only one and-a-half miles; but between Africa and Perim the strait is twelve miles broad. There is a good harbour on the south-west side . of the island, well sheltered, with ample depth of water. Passing this island the steamer enters a narrow gulf 1,200 miles in The climate is at times trying, the sea running N.N.W. and S.S.E. through a region where rain seldom falls, and the heat is great so long as no brecze can be felt. In the southern part south winds prevail from October to May, and north winds the rest of the year; in the northerly portions of the sea the wind is usually from the So long as the steamer is head to wind the heat is less felt. But this trying weather is soon past, such is the speed of the modern passenger In the old sailing ship days it was held that “for six months out year you cannot get into the Red Sea, and during the other six months you cannot get out of it owing to the prevailing winds.” But the steamer mocks at the winds, and carries the passenger from Perim to Suez in four or five days at most. Thus is restored to this historic sea the traffic with which it was enlivened at a period anterior to sailing ships, when vessels were classed by the number of their oars; by the man-power of their motive force as now by the "horse-power.” Never exceeding 180 miles in width, the navigation of this strange inlet from the Indian Ocean has always been accounted difficult and dangerous owing to the number of low islands and coral reefs which line The central channel is generally very decp. Immediately inside the entrance, 40 miles from Perim, on the right hand side is Mocha, of coffee celebrity. of standard Islands On hand the Dhalac Archipelago is passed, behind which lies the island of the Abyssinian to uphold stcamer. of the the shores. respect THE SUL the oasis, known as Moses's Well. for this continuous supply the level of the sea, by evaporation alone, would ROUTE. 75 the back country belongs to the moun- over by a primitive Christian people. at an elevation of over 9,000 feet above dominion over the IOO the Red Sea. passed. Another coast line; but tainous kingdom of Abyssinia, rw1ad Magdala, the capital, is situated miles take Five hundred miles from Perinn, Red Sea, and on his right-hand After passing 170 miles of barren however, 130 miles distant. OPPOsite to Zemba, on two remarkable islets known as the Brothers, which lie Egyptian Port Indian contingent of Sir R. Abercrombie's Another hundred miles bring the steamer to the island expedition landed in 1802-struggled across the desert, and so marched boldly the right, the of Shadwan, shortly after which of which Jebel Katherina, near Mount Sinai, away to the N.N.E., on its right hand the Sinai and the steamer enters the gulf The Gulf of Suez is from ten to twenty-five On either hand, mountains, table-land, and bold ridges three Peninsula, on the southern part rises to a height of 8,630 feet. the earth lends unique effects to the scenery. and six thousand feet high, challenge admiration, not only for their picturesque outline, but also for their marvellous colouring. On the right, as Suez is approached, will be seen the stunted palm tree of has a coast line of about 3,000 miles, and yet not one single river flows into it. The Red Sea is known to the Arabs as the Bahr Malek, or Salt Sea, The entrance is only fourteen miles in width, and in consequence there is the great evaporation always proceeding. miles inland. at the point where of Souakim, the port of Upper Egypt is the voyager nearly half way along the is Jiddah, the great pilgrim port of Mecca. coast on either hand the steamer reaches Or Yenbo, the port of Medina, from which it is, the Egyptian coast, is in as the first cataract I 50 the same latitude the latitude of Zemba the supposed pont liés Berenice Another 165 miles brings the Nile approaches the of the Nile, which the steamer to the off Kosseir, an nearest to the Red Sea. the island of Jubal is passed on the left- sulf of Akaba trends down on Cairo. hand; and on miles in width. The peculiar atmosphere of this “rainless region salt It water from the Indian Ocean, to balance It has been calculated that but a great inflow of “fresh 76 THE SUEZ ROUTE. sufficient supplies give a red hue to the water. favoura bly impressed with these specimens of the fine physique of the desert fellaheen, and he will see that in Egypt the dry heat does the growth of muscle and stamina. attribute, and much fun accompanies the scamper from the quays to the the spot where the great crossing place has existed from History gives successive details of Egyptians, Israelites, fall twenty-three feet per annum. It would seem then that if the entrance were blocked for a hundred years, the bed of the Red Sea would be turned into one huge mass of salt. The water is said to have reached a temperature of over 100° Fahrenheit. In the main part of the Red Sea the tide seldom rises more than two or three feet, but at Suez the spring tides rise seven feet. The question will always be asked whence this title of Red ? It does not appear to be a corruption of any old title. This “mare rubrum of the Romans was also the sea of Edom, which, being interpreted, means “Red,” but it was the Salt Sea of the Arabs and the Weedy Sea of the Hebrew's. Its waters are blue; and though there is much red coral, there is hardly to generalise appearances. At times quantities of oscillatoriæ It seems, however, more probable that Edom us with the right clue. The Northern shores are composed greatly of red sandstone; the whole atmospheric colourings are decidedly pink—and the general blush of the aspect probably led the first visitors from the North to retain for the sea that title which appealed to the senses. Suec.-As the steamer enters the Suez roadstead, the eye looks over the desert that has always been the highway between Asia and Africa, A line drawn north from Suez until it touches the Mediterranean is the geographical boundary between Asia and Africa. On the left Mount stands up boldly above the plain to a height of 2,700 feet. Soon, however, the port of Suez is entered, and a succession of including capacious dry docks, are seen with the ancient town of Suez, 13 miles away over the flats. quays swarm with the celebrated donkeys and no less celebrated boys, both lively and lusty of their kind. The visitor will be not prevent Humour is apparently an invariable itself possesses unique interest as a city of the desert, and as West to Phænicians. Attaka quays and docks, The donkey “ City.” Sue markin East. THE suza 77 ROUTE. Lake Timsah, the Mohammedans Romans, Moh and English, util will find much to interest Ornamental lattices are “ Spectatum thoroughly The docks and quays are necessarily European in character ; but the visitor them womankind may look on inhabitants in this city. desert gate-including water which is often The whole of the country is slowly emerging fair accommodation on the tropical English system. The fresh water supply is the north, the steamer local wells only yield smell, though clear as crystal. that preserve the channel of the Suez Canal, seaport in the sixteenth century, The Suez Canal.—Leaving enters between the long moles one hundred statute miles in tide is felt as far as this, and The Bitter Lakes widen the verdured line of the Nile to Suez. quarries of purphyry and travel at greater speed, at their northern end the canal is again entered thirty-four miles from the Red Sea. About nine miles of canal have now to be traversed before Turks, Venetians, Portuguese, Italians, Sus in their migrations and their commerce. The 3D the narrow alleys of the city. From behind the house architecture. t gay world unveiled but unseen :- veniunt at non spectenter ut ipsce.” . A Egyptian and well worthy of attention. an evening stroll beyond it will desert life and its monotonous surroundings. The Suez Hotel affords The sterility and saltness. is now i] miles inland. the port of Suez on desert, eighty-seven geographical, or about length. The first narrow portion of the canal to the Bitter Lakes. the general character of the canal is well seen. surface of water, but the available channel is remains of a dried-up arm of the Red Sea on ancient port of Arsinoe. To the fresh-water canal that now runs this riscs the Geneffe range, affording prefable marble. Through the Bitter Lakes the steamer as there are no banks to wash away, and On either hand is the nars are the some 15,00 The Bazaars from the Nile. offensive in taste and by means of a canal brackish visit to give the visitor a a sample of The town of Suez, a There are hence its sea ; the from the Sea The slight Red Sea a narrow water-way water-way across the west is cuts through from the Red They are the flourished the from Behind still narrow. which once seen the Crocodile Lake,” is entered. cara 78 THE SUEZ ROUTE. strip of terra firma between the lake of Timsah and the marshes centrated; the army pushed along the line of the railway and sweet water three weeks. desert is entered. passed. At the commencement of this there are some difficult curves, the regulation pace is slow, it is here that steamers most and obstruct the general traffic. The cutting of this part one hundred feet above the desert and was penetrated with difficulty. This Piece of work on the canal; the ridge of El Guisr rose from desert. On the left is situated the Serapeum railway station, around which may be found remains of many ancient buildings inscribed with Persian and Egyptian characters. The chapel of Our Lady of the Desert commemorates the flight of the Holy Family into Egypt. A neigh- bouring ancient monument gives to this portion of the canal its name of “the Serapeum cutting.” On February 28th, 1869, the Prince and Princess of Wales “let in the waters” to this portion of the work. . At Lake Timsah the accompanying fresh water canal turns abruptly away to the west, along the land of Goschen; and here is situated the town of Ismailia, clustering round a summer palace of the Khedive. This was the centre of the celebrations at the opening of the Canal in November, The Empress Eugenie, the Empress of Austria, and the Crown Prince of Prussia, were among the chief stars of the ceremony. The town was planned and built most artistically, but the drainage was so forgetfully executed that it is said to have found its only outlet in the fresh water canal that was the mainstay of life in the desert. The con sequences were inevitable, it very soon became fever-stricken ; and it is now practically deserted. Ismailia in 1882 was galvanised into a brief life of extreme when it became the base of Sir G. Wolseley's brilliant campaign. The canal and lakes were crowded with men-of-war and transports ; the filled with all the busy needs of an army of 20,000 town While Arabi and his troops blocked the way into Egypt from Alexandria the British navy seized Ismailia; men and material were rapidly con- canal; the Egyptian lines of Tel-el-Kebeer were stormed at the point of the and Cairo occupied without further resistance in a 1869. ; activity men. was bayonet, campaign of Between Lake Timsah and Kantarah seventeen miles of narrow canal have and as ground frequently was the seventy to hardest is the ne THE SUZ 79 ROUTE. seen waiting of Lake Menzaleh. Along this on and at the pontoon-ferries fully town and hotel, and is on the most frequented road to Syria. Kantarah is about sixty-four marshes of Lake Menzaleh : wild Twenty-four miles of steaming brings the abound; and the thought recurs the canal at Port Said on the Mediterranean. But the sea has invaded and oppressed average width of only twenty-five yards, but fertile wheat-growing plains watered be made in this respect. Strange to cities that once flourished there. large ships, and it is almost always a small vessel at last to the north end of The canal has at present great improvements are about to narrow waterway is found best one which grounds in the canal. sometimes contrives to block the passage for days together. a vessel as the Orient or Austaz cannot get across the channel, whereas a colleagues recently traversed the canal in the smaller boat, blown by the wind, will be doubled, and in places will be simply traffic as at present conducted will, it is the Austral of this line, and their observations have resulted in a scheme by which in places the waterway widened, so that the dangers are signal posts, and a ball above a flag says confidently expected, disappear. lakes where thcy can pass each other freely, and steam at full speed. At each twenty “stately ships go by," while you wait at a siding, and nothing gives the traveller so great an idea of British commerce as the fact that something like strip is the ancient desert route to Syria; uipped caravans may be miles from the Suez entrance. It boasts an eithe side stretch away the wide swamps and fowl, including large flocks of pink flamingoes, that these unproductive shallows were once by the Pelusaic and Tanitic mouths of the rich soil with even the remains of many ancient towns and an of on the block system,” except in the flag above a ball says "go into the canal.” their turn of crossing. Shortly after leaving this, sand and the Nile. say, the for This is explained when we remember that such or affected by the slight current, or awkwardly handled by her crew, M. de Lesseps and his out. There It is is a fine sight to see sometimes as many as At present, ships are of the stations or “gares, go into the siding,” while a are, of course, other signals. 80 THE SUEZ ROUTE. pink. The mind will also recur to memories of the persistent attempts of the Necho (B.C. 600) made a and tells This cutting became the seventh century. choked with sand, but was afterwards cleared and re-opened by Caliph Omar in active coaling station, the work being performed by Arabs, who a platform formed of material dug out of the canal, is laid out on One writer in a newspaper ninc out of ten are going to or from England. lately said that he had been through the canal, one way or other, six times, and only saw one foreign ship, and she ran into that on which he had embarked. As the end of the passage is neared, every one on board watches the wonderful flights and flocks of birds on Lake Menzaleh to the westward. Some- times thousands of pelicans appear sitting so close together that they look like a whitewashed wall at a little distance, and it often requires a strong glass to resolve such a cloud of birds into its component individuals. The spectator is fortunate if a flock of flamingoes rises into the air, because while the flamingo looks white when standing, the under side of his wings when he flies is rosy It has been found quite practicable to prevent any serious silting of the canal by the desert sand. The washing away of the banks can also be successfully counteracted by facing them with stone and concrete. The main engineering trouble of the present, is the silting up of the Port Said or Mediterranean entrance. To obviate this, the western break- water, a mile and a half long, has been constructed to protect the entrance from silting of the mud and sand carried down to the Mediterranean by the Nile. It is probable that much may be done by placing smaller intermediate breakwaters along the coast nearer Damietta. While waiting in the sidings for other vessels to pass or for the night, the strange colourings and peculiar aspects of desert scenery will be enjoyed to the full. Even a run on the sands of the desert may be indulged in. ancients to have a ship canal across this desert. canal from Suez through the Bitter Lakes to Lake Timsah, and then west to Bubastis on the Nile. Herodotus describes this work with its water gates, Said is built on the flat sands at the entrance of Port 200 tons of coal on board a steamer within the hour. The town, the canal. It is will built an put On THE 81 ZE Z ROUTE. . no a the Franco-African system, and various agents of numerous postal steam to Ismailia by a on the change that of the more опсе time after traversing the canal, is at the Red Sea to it is advisable us of the bom- and The Mediterranean.-The first actual temperature may be, it On leaving Port The Damietta buildings would remind formidable forts by the British Fleet, is sudden; at the same Seymour, and of the subsequent sacking and battles of the Nile and of Aboutir bardment and destruction of burning of the city by the Egyptian rebels. Cyprus, Crete, and Greece, are Etna may an altitude of 10,880 left at a long distance to the to the left, the steamer legend-honoured whirlpools of Scylla and here is practically tide-less, the rise and feet. Soon the shores of Italy Messina are variable, and at times attain The Mediterranean the coasts counter currents are experienced. fall being but a few inches. The currents in the Straits coast of Sicily, between the Faro Point a velocity of three knots; near and off Palazzo tower with the food. with the ebb, The meeting of the opposing At Pezzo Point, on the Italian which is dangerous with a south-east wind. coast appear to represent Charybdis ; those on the Italian coast, Scylla. straits at the northern entrance are but 27 miles in width. the Scylla, standing 200 feet con tains nothing of interest. Here sojourn interests. Communication is kept up with launch sensation on entering the Mediterranean that of chilliness; for matter what the is great change from the temperature of MI editerranean. On arriving at Port Said, Dut extra clothing, for the cooler and bracing atmosphere is Said, the low lying Egyptian shore is seen mouth of the Nile, and the scenes of the are passed, and were we near enough to its the north, and no land is sighted until , leaving steers along the coasts of Sicily for the be seen towering to appear on the right hand, and the steamer the Of currents produces in several parts of the ripplings, locally known “ Garofalo." the coast, there is a very strong of the narrowest part, is the village of On the tidal eddy. Under the village, the G much enjoyed. for some time. sce them, Alexandria under Admiral Sir Beauchamp Malta Straits of Messina. narrows between enters the Charybdis. as The “ Garofalo," The eddies on the Sicilian strait principal and Sottile whirls and great whirls occur on Point above These Italian side, just north 82 TILE SUEZ ROUTE. at the foot of the mountain ranges, north-eastward is still a less than 70 fathoms. the district in 1830, and now the town and its neighbourhood have Passing along to the westward, the high land of the Sierra uth-east corner of Spain, is sighted. Cape de Gata is in the midst of the sea is the small Spanish isle of of fishermen and smugglers, and even, it is rumoured, seafarers of a of Almeria, the centre of one of the richest as well as most ces of Spain. One hundred miles further westward Malaga may be seen rocks are hollowed away, and the agitated waters make the strange sound that legend attributed to the dogs of Scylla. The depth of water is no Messina itself, founded by the Greeks as a Colony nearly 3000 years ago, flourishing port. The long line of its Marina, with handsome buildings rising one above another, the whole being backed by a dark forest, gives the town a fine appearance from the sea. Reggio, the capital of the province of Calabria, is about ten miles distant from Messina on the opposite coast of Italy, and is the birthplace of Ariosto the poet, and Corregio the painter. On clearing the straits the steamer passes the remarkable Lipari Islands, of volcanic fame. On the right is the coast of Italy, hardly visible in ihe till the Licosa point is approached. After this the Gulf of is crossed, and rounding by the Isle of Capri the Bay of Naples is entered Naples to Gibraltar.–Naples we describe elsewhere. Leaving Naples the steamer follows a direct course first for the southern end of Sardinia, and then for Tarifa, the south point of Spain. If the steamer's course lay near to the African coast the fine bay of Algiers, with the ancient city and modern villas and suburbs, might be sighted; and the change noticed that has over this place, which, from its foundation in the tenth century till its bombardment by the British fleet under Lord Exmouth in 1816, had been a formidable pirates' nest. Until that year the Algerines were the terror of the seas and specially dreaded on account of their habit of retaining in slavery all whom they captured in war. The French a sanatorium for modern Europe. Nevada, at passed. On ft, Alboran, a distance, Salerno come seized become the SO the le resort more lawless description. Just west of Cape de Gata is the Spanish town picturesque provin nestlins of which is 1 1 fi be Si D pc tt e се, la 1 of wlu fett to' mo nat ma tos ор and Sp poi Ні! stri an sur ofti mu by affe egu 83 by the influence of the local equal periods according to the tide. THE of Moorish dominion in Granada with Europe. In batteries in The only about its Alhambra, the Sixty miles beyond Malaga between which and Ceuta, on the finds its only outlet to the ocean the garrison has hitherto successfully beaten efforts of the French and Spaniards, been, since 1704, in the possession pice 1,330 feet high. siege in 1780-82. The the rock, opening here and commanding positions -the only place in Europe landing is on the west side; but off all attacks, including these summits who maintained a three years' In Gibraltar feet above the sea, and the highest point 1,408 feet. At Windmill Hill in 180, some remarkable and extensive caves were nationalities than in any other main body of the British troops The Peninsular Coast. --Steering out of Gibraltar across the Bay the and also of “prehistoric man,' between Calpe (Gibraltar) and Abyla (A pes' point is the Pearl Rock-on which H.M.S. Agincourt once struck. The Straits of Gibraltar are Hill), these being the ancient depth of 200 fathoms there is an inflow from the Atlantic straits is under eight miles across, often running at a rate of four to five knots an hour; and creating at times much surface commotion. affected by the in-running current of the Atlantic, and set cast or west for ZEZ ROUTE. last foothold sises the curious peninsula of Gibraltar, OP posite African coast, the Mediterranean It has known to need lengthy description. the north the of Great Britain. To it from Spain is dominated by a sheer preci- this are the celebrated galleries hewn within there in portholes which, with the rock, render it impregnable. Persistent efforts of the will probably be seen a greater variety of town in the world. The cantonments for the are on the sandy isthmus to the north of the rich harvest of remains of extinct animals In some of these the stalactites are superb. seen on the west side. Pillars of Hercules.” current, or rather two currents, running. On the The velocity of this current is, however, checked tide. Below 200 fathoms the waters are un- Gibraltar itself is too well Sandy isthmus that separates the The Barbary Ape is a to be found on monkey exists. At the south-west town. opened, which have yielded town The narrowest part of the Spanish a strong and there is always surface and to a The dcepest part of the straits is over G 2 84 THE SUEZ ROUTE. another the romantic palace inhabited by Don Fernando, the intellectual consort of the late Queen. clearly discernible with the telescope. In the midst of magnificent gardens, crowning a grassy knoll, and surrounded by thriving woods of gum trees brought from Australia, is the well-known villa “Monte Serrato," celebrated with the vineyards that produce the famous Lisbon wines. Nine miles beyond Cintra, with a telescope may be seen the huge pile of buildings of Mafra Palace, reputed, next to the Vatican, to be the largest Monastery, Royal Palace, Barracks, School, Library, 500 fathoms, but currents are much complicated by a remarkable sub- marine rocky ridge or barrier that runs from Cape Spartel in Africa towards Cape Trafalgar in Spain, where the greatest depth is only 190 fathoms. Leaving the troubled waters of the Straits the steamer follows along the Spanish coast line. Low lying Cape Trafalgar is passed with the stirring memory of the great sea-captain's last battle fought in 1805—in every way the greatest of naval battles. The mind's eye will follow the few vessels of the enemy that escaped in their flight northwards into Cadiz harbour. And the imagination leads us to remember that there too are the vineyards of Xeres and the picturesque city of Seville. Cape St. Vincent is soon sighted ahead. Nelson again recurs to memory, capturing the “San Joseph” and the “San Nicolas” in Lord St. Vincent's signal victory in 1797. The coast is now that of Portugal, that small strip of Western Europe which at one time held in its dominion all the trade outlets down the west coast Africa, along the East Coast and by Arabia, right round Hindostan to the Islands of the Eastern Straits. The Portuguese, all credit to them, were the pioneers of that commercial colonization which the Dutch so developed and which the British nation appear to have perfected. Steaming along at some distance from the land, presently are seen the curiously stratified cliffs of Cape Espichel, to the eastward of which is the old Phænician, Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese Port of Setubal, famed for A few miles further, and the mouth of the Tagus is passed, and a glimpse caught in the distance of the fine city of Lisbon. view is soon shut out by the serrated ridge of Cintra, about 1,600 feet in height . On one summit is perched the now deserted Cork Convent ” ; on Cintra town, with its old Moorish palace, , of its oranges. This ; is by Byron. building in the world. NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 85 University, Hospital, all find roomy accommodation within its ample precincts. Above this, stretching from the sea to the river Tagus, are the heights of Torres Vedras, celebrated in the peninsular war as the lines successfully defended by Wellington against the best efforts of an overwhelming French force. Rounding the outlying rocks, the Berlingas, the steamer follows the straight coast of Portugal, past the town of Oporto, and the Douro, with their port wine traditions; past Vigo and its magnificent harbour, to Cape Finisterre, that southern horn of the Bay of Biscay, to which we had conducted the passenger in describing the Cape Route. CHAPTER VI.-NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. . If we The Naturalist at Sea.—The student of Natural History at Sea will enjoy special opportunities of observing strange living things, many of which are rarely if ever to be found within sight of land. Of this new deep sea field for intelligent observation, the old English writer, Fuller, makes a quaint home-thrust in the words, “Indeed these be God's wonders ; and that seaman the greatest wonder of them all for his blockishness who, seeing them daily, neither takes notice of them, admires at them, nor is thankful for them.” substitute passenger for seaman we may be severe, but not without reason, as all passengers will agree who have utilized a voyage to their great profit as well as pleasure in studying the new world of living beings to be met with only out of sight of land. The introduction of steam is not, however, from a naturalist's point of view, an unmixed advantage; a voyage in a sailing vessel, not unfrequently delayed by calms, or moving slowly through the water, afforded periods of enforced leisure, in which were ample opportunities for both passengers and crew to observe and collect specimens of the strange denizens of the sea. It is when the ship is stationary in the waste of waters that the living beings of the outside world can best be seen and captured. And now, save in the rare passenger has not those old opportunities. stopping the engines for rest or repair, the intelligent Moreover, steam enables ships to instance 86 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. other insects—and will bring in their train land birds of various descrip- tions-giving to the vessel for the time a most pleasant smack of shore life. Many of these birds alight on the vessels wearied nigh unto death, and may be readily caught and handled and fed while resting. Land journeying by roosting temporarily on ships. certain that in such cases they do much of their of land, are too accustomed to their surroundings ever to allow themselves to Coast Birds.-Coast Birds, although frequently seeking their food out of sight be blown even by the fiercest gales far out to sea. to recognise the proximity of land. As a rough distinction it is worth while remembering that the more a bird lives on the lard, the more choose their own courses, and as a consequence they are deserting, for the smoother waters and more direct routes of the tropics, that great wilderness of waves of the Southern Ocean which is so prolific of bird and fish life. Nevertheless, the passenger by the Orient Steamer will see and can weli study that peculiar animal kingdom which exists out of sight of land. Land Birds.—Birds first claim our attention. They are the most obvious and the most welcome apparitions at sea ; adding life to the otherwise inanimate seascape, and conjuring up direct evidence of the actual existence of the unseen land. Distinction should be drawn at sea between land birds, coast birds, an ocean birds. Land birds are only at sea by accident; coast birds are seen at sea, but only in the proximity of land ; ocean birds cruise far away at sea, seldom visiting the shore except during the breeding season. To follow these differences is to follow not only an interesting but also a useful study. Land birds explain wind currents, while the difference between coast and ocean birds is the difference between signs that do and signs that do not prove proximity of land. Of land birds swallows, being migratory, are most often met withi sea, and they will associate themselves with the ship for days together. other small birds are not unfrequent visitors, the hawk and pigeon tribes occasionally hover Steaming down the coast of Africa a will sometimes blow off to the steamer swarms of locusts or butterflies and distances from the coast often many hundreds is To recognise them Sandpipers, finches and while representatives of round and settle on the ship. squall birds appear at great of miles; but it seems lie NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 87 sea. flaps his wings. The rook flaps continually; the gull skims and flaps in about equal ratio ; the albatross rarely if ever flaps. Gulls, cormorants, and divers of the penguin and puffin class are well known coast birds of the temperate zones. Terns are also common. Grey in colour, with black caps in temperate, and white in tropic zones, with a pretty angular flight, they are the objects of much notice and admiration. Gannets of a brilliant white, with black tips to the wings, tower high in the air and, in pursuit of their prey, shoot headlong into the water with such force as to leave, where they have disappeared, a spot covered with foam as iſ a large stone had fallen from a great height into the sea. And there are special coast birds of the tropics; the Frigate Bird (Tachypetes aquila), alias “Seahawk,” alias “Man of War Bird," might also be called a Gannet- Eagle; with powerful hooked beak and claws, partially webfooted, and with great strength of wing, it is “built ” to cruise a pirate among birds of the It is reputed to catch fiying fish in their flight, but it has a greater propensity to rob other birds of their hard-earned prey, attacking them in the air and appropriating their booty as it falls from their grasp. The male, of a bright black above, and the female of a duller tint, are known by their great size and eagle-like manoeuvres in the air. The curious may investigate the pouch the male alone possesses under his bill. Rare instances occur of a similar appendage in other birds; as with the Australian musk duck ; but no one has yet satisfactorily explained its functions. Ocean Birds.-Of ocean birds, that is, of birds that habitually spend most of their life out of sight of land, few are met with within the tropics. They are to be seen chiefly and best on the great Southern Ocean, which puts a complete girdle of sea round the earth. They are distinguished from the other classes of birds by never settling on the ship, and seldom flapping their wings. These birds are met with in large numbers, 1,000 miles from land, and it is almost provoking to see them without any apparent effort soaring along directly over the ship, though she may be going her fourteen or fifteen knots in the hour. Moreover, marked birds have been known to keep with the same ship for four or five days, and this without any appa- It is difficult to believe they can sleep on the wing; in rough weather they are rarely seen sitting on the water, though in calms they are frcquently to be seen not only sitting, but sleeping on the water. rent rest. 88 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. “Cape Dove" or "Fulmer Petrel ” is rather larger, and of a plain, dull dove colour. Known to our own North Sea fishermen as the Mall Duck, the Fulmcr appears in all cold seas, both north and south. are confined to some one district of sea; and this is consequently reputed by naturalists to be the most numerous of any known species of bird. The naturalist, as the good ship steams from the Cape to Australia, will notice several larger varieties of petrel, ranging between the Cape Dove and the true Albatross, but all of them of uniform dark hue. Sailors apply to these generally the terms epithet “Parsons” to a lesser species, with white bill, and white “spectacles” 'Cape Hens"; and the special round the eyes. To the larger, with greenish beak, the terms “Nelly," and “Mother Carey's Goose This is the Sooty Petrel (Diomedea Among them, or frequently in company with the Frigate Birds, or winging its direct way over the pathless ocean of the tropics, is seen the "Boatswain Bird,” otherwise "Phaeton,” or “Tropic Bird,” or “Strawtail." This is much smaller than the Frigate Bird, the length from bill to root of tail averaging under twelve inches; two long feathers, much prized, project another twelve inches beyond the tail. The more common species has white plumage, tinged with a delicate roseate hue. The ocean birds generally belong to the great Petrel tribe. The smallest representative and the commonest at sea, and the only one that appears within the tropics is the “Stormy Petrel” (Thalassidroma), or “Mother Carey's Chicken.” It is from this bird that the whole tribe derive their name. It may be frequently seen under the vessel's stern picking up its food, pattering or walking on the water. Very much resembling the house-martin these energetic little birds may be seen by the hour together, “questioning” the wavy hollows of the ship's track for what she turns up in her course. They are oily that a wick inserted through a dead bird will burn as if in a lamp. Next in size is the “Whale Bird” (Prion), with plumage of a pearly tint, elegantly skimming the water in large flights, the prettiest bird in all creation in its flight. Their favourite food is squical and other jelly fish, on which whales also feed; hence they harbinger the likely presence of whales. The Cape Pigeon," or "Pintado Petrel,” is perhaps the best known of all the Cape Birds ;' it has a spread of wings of some two-and-a-half feet-, the white grounding barred during fight with dark brown stripes. Other ocean birds , cire applied. SO The NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 89 spadicea), and it is the Petrel that most frequently soars over the deck, and may be shot so as to fall on board. Albatross.-Larger than all of these are the Albatross tribe. They may be distinguished by the prevailing colour on the underside of the wings, which is white, with the hindmost edge of a black or brown. The Mollymauk is the smallest of the tribe (Diomedea chlororhynchos). It may be distinguished by the black on the top of the wings being continued across the body. Of the Albatross proper there are two types. The great Albatross (Diomedea exulans) may be more or less black on the top of the wings, but the back is always white. Another type, scarcely inferior in size, is the Dusky Albatross (Diomedea fuliginosa), which is brown in colour all over, but speckled with white. The usual stretch of the wings is from ten to fourteen feet, but the largest that has been measured reached seventeen feet. The Albatross is as noble and handsome a bird as any that exists ; 'very daintily marked, with a fine head and bold carriage, and a strangely grand eye and countenance. In life it has a pink beak, and delicate rose streaks on the cheeks, but these tints disappear soon after death, and are consequently not seen in stuffed specimens, and their occurrence is therefore generally overlooked by naturalists. These birds are most clumsy on the water, very timid in approaching anything that moves, and in all probability would have neither • the wish nor the power to attack “a man overboard” until he had become motionless in death. Their name is probably a composition of the Arabic- Portuguese “Alcatraz,” meaning any big sea bird. The Albatross is rarely, if ever, seen within the tropics; it is very common in the great Southern Ocean; and curiously enough, though frequent in Behring's Strait, it is practically unknown in the North Atlantic. The passenger will watch the Albatross sustaining his twenty pounds of weight on an area of sixteen square feet of wing for hours together without any apparent effort; crossing and recrossing the wake of a ship steaming along at sixteen miles an hour; and all this with his wings perfectly still save for an occasional flap, say three or four times in the hour. Fish-Rays and Sharks.-Crossing the deep sea the voyager will become acquainted with many fish that rarely if ever are seen ashorc. Rays of cnor. mous size and unusual shapes are sometimes scen basking near the surface; and should the steamcr Come to a stop, they will approach and swim curiously around. Seldom taking bait they can only be obtained by means of harpooning. 90 NATURAL HISTORY AT SF.A. remarkably retentive of life, and when caught and hauled on board may prove inhabitant of the Mediterranean, and met with in all tropical seas, more commonly haunts the bays and harbours of the West India islands, where its dreaded presence creates a real peril for bathers, or sailors whose misfortune fcet, it is the most ferocious of its species; though, like the blue shark, it may at times, by violent splashing, be scared or driven from its prey. The Fox Shark of the tail as long as the body. By vigorous blows of this tail it attacks (Zygana malleus) is so called from its curiously T-shaped snout. The Notidanus, or defends itself from its enemics. The Hammer-headed Shark at the surface, though not uncommon in the arcper waters of the Mediterranean. Closely allied to the rays, the sharks belong to an order (Chondropterygii) distinguished by a cartilaginous instead of a bony skeleton. Their skin is singularly tough, and their muscular system very highly and very unusually developed. The teeth are angular and serrate, with a sharp cutting edge, while the eyes, unlike those of the majority of fishes, which are prominent and unprotected, are furnished with a movable outer skin corresponding to the inner eyelid in birds; and there are peculiarities in the structure of the eye itself which allow of rapid movement, a great advantage to the creature when roaming in pursuit of its prey. It is a popular fallacy that from the peculiar position of the mouth, low down below the snout, it has some difficulty in seizing its food, and that the action in turning the head and ſorcpart of the body is a necessity; the action is really designed to give the sharply serrated teeth their greatest possible effect in cutting in two the object of attack that its parts may be more readily swallowed. In disposition and habits sharks have been fitly compared with the birds of prey. Sustained by their powerful fins, they range at will through the upper regions of the deep sea, and have been known to follow in the wake of some vessels for days together, without apparent effort. The Blue Shark (Carcharias glaucus), a wandering fish, is usually from six to eight feet in length, but has been known to attain fourteen feet. a dangerous enemy, until stunned by a heavy blow on the nose or by the loss of its tail. The White Shark, (C. vulgaris) like the last Attaining a length of from twenty-five to thirty a name sometimes improperly applied to the white shark, is not often It is crippled an it is to fall into the sea. lobe even the whale, or seen NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 91 ; The largest of the whole group, and the most harmless, is the Basking Shark, which measures occasionally thirty-six feet in length. It has been suggested that a procession of these fish, with their large back-fin and pointed tail rising some three feet out of the water, and seen perhaps at a distance, has suggested to superstitious voyagers the appearance of the “Great Sea-Serpent.” The shark is himself the centre of a little colony of lesser fishes. The Sucking-fish (Remora) adheres to the shark's skin by a plate on his head and thus is carried about the ocean to pick up the crumbs that are let drop from his carrier's “table.” The Pilot-fish (Scomber ductor) is the inseparable attendant of the shark, and the certain herald of his presence. In appearance and size he roughly resembles a large perch, but is other- wise distantly related to the mackerel. Flying Fish.—The deck of the steamer is a splendid vantage ground from which to observe the singular habits and actions of the various species of Flying Fish. The more common kind is the Exocetus evolans, belonging to the pike family; in size they vary from about two inches to nearly two feet in length. Shoals of this fish rise perpetually from the tropical sea and skim through the air, again to dash into the water. They appear to rise when disturbed either by greater fishes or by the passing steamer. At night time, and even occasionally during the day, they fly on board a ship, but as they do not as a rule rise more than fifteen or eighteen feet above the water they fail to reach the high decks of the modern steamer. The It is probably a fallacy to suppose they fly at lights in the night. distance of their Aight varies greatly, and in this respect the observant passenger may record much that would be of value. Definite information is still required as to the exact time the flying fish remains out of water. Thirty seconds is about the longest on actual record. “ The flying fish,” says Colingwood, “when it leaves the water, has its wings in a state of rapid vibration, not so rapid however that the eye cannot follow them, and thus it gains an impulse in a horizontal direction. As soon as it is thus fairly launched, the wings assume a state of rest, somewhat in the position of those of a pigeon in the act of alighting, and thus they continue until the fish drops ?“A Naturalist's Rambles in the China Sca." 92 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. and down tail, with the “porpoise,” under the generic title Dolphin. a fishes is fast-swimming active, and lives by catching prey of smaller kinds; the Albacore attains to weights of thirty and forty pounds; while the Bonito rarely exceeds ten pounds. They have a strong family resemblance these fish alter in colour with great rapidity, and this change is specially from a vessel with artificial bait, roughly resembling flying fish, provided to disappear. These fish may be caught often caught in the Mediterranean. Swordfish,” is somewhat similar to the Dourado, and is ship, leaving its sword embedded in the timbers. which must be distinguished both from the shark,“ sawfish,” and the whale, "narwhal,” is common in the Mediterranean, and classical authorities confounded together these two, which have a continuous dorsal fin and up into the water. But when it meets or is struck by the crest of a wave, if it cmerges from it immediately, as frequently happens, it does so with a similar vibration of the wings to that with which it first left the water; and each time it strikes a wave a new vibration succeeds, as though the contact with the water produced an automatic vibration of the wings which kept them above the surface. When the fish meets with a succession of wave crests, it takes more or less zig-zag course, changing its direction cach time it emerges from the water.” But even in its flight the fish will often find itself exposed to new foes—to terns and gannets, and frigate birds. The poetic story of his capture by the albatross is not well founded, the albatross being seldom seen in the latitudes frequented by flying fish. As we have seen, the word albatross originally was applied to any large sea fowl. Flying fish are capital on the table. They are caught in nets above and below water. The Barbadians set nets up in the air on reefs, and then “ drive” the shoals over the reefs. Enthusiasts for sport shoot flying fish from a boat. The Mackerel Tribe—Dolphins.—The deep sea is tenanted by various fish of the mackerel tribe-Scomberidæ-headed by the great Tunny of the NIediterranean, reputed to reach a length of eighteen feet. This tribe to our mackerel, but are altogether deeper and fuller in shape. When dying, beautiful in the Dourado (Coryphæna), the “Dolphin” of the poets. appear but the speed does not exceed three or four knots. It has been known to run a tilt This “Unicorn of Vivid The Xiphias, or at a fish, have f + 92 S.S.CHIMBORAZO.” . 一 ​ NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 93 at The Snock.-Another representative of the mackerel tribe is met with near temperate coasts; naturalists call it Sphyræna barrocuda ; sailors “snock,” or “barracouta,” or “sea pike." “These barracoutas,” says Canon Kingsley, "" Sphyranas' as the learned, or 'pike' as the sailors, call them, though they are no kin to our pike at home—are, when large, nearly as dangerous as a shark. Moreover, they have this somewhat mean advantage over you, that while, if they eat you, you will agree with them perfectly, you cannot eat them, at least certain, or uncertain, seasons of the year, without their disagreeing with you —without sickness, trembling pains in all joints, falling off of nails and hair for years to come, and possible death." All fish of the mackerel family are at times unwholesome. They will not keep: hot weather or moonlight seems to affect them at once : their “dying colours" are probably significant of speedy decomposition. The old English law, for this reason, gave to mackerel a special dispensation to be sold on Sundays. The various harbours and ports will be seen to abound with small fish, and an hour or two on board may be not only pleasantly but profitably employed in catching them. A "shore-going” pike rod with stout running line, and an outfit of old sea-trout flies, small spoon bait, and gut bait line will be found invaluable on such occasions. Cetaceans.—In all seas Cetaceans are met with, from the gigantic eighty- foot whale to the liveliest of little porpoises. These denizens of the deep are mammals, suckling their young and breathing the upper air through lungs. Their tail is placed crosswise, not up and down as in fishes; this seems to be a development, to give them quick powers of rising to the surface for breath. These huge mammals are, par excellence, the “fish” of the deep sea. Pedants object to the application of this term, but on the sea one should rather conform to the rule of those who live on the sea, and remember that “ fish” on a whaler is synonymous with whale. Pedants, too, may be rebuked by quoting to them the old Roman naturalist Pliny, who speaks of the whale as “Balæna Piscis,” though correctly explaining its possession of lungs, and not gills, reluctantly to the for breathing. The great naturalist Gray is forced same conclusion. A fish is a living being that would 94 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. the huge beast in the act of « Its swallow is ridiculously small, not more than two inches in dia- the palate of the mouth, and acts as a filter, like the teeth of the Sperm Whale. It differs from the “Sperm” in having a pointed and not a square nose. There are nearly a thousand pieces of whalebone in the one mouth; and it is curious to remember that this, the largest of beasts, ng larger than those of an ox, the whale can die out of water; and to fish is to extract something from the water. The Roman Catholics, wise in their generation, allowed of porpoise being eaten in Lent. Sperm and Right Whales.-Of whales proper there are three great classes “Sperm,” “Right,” and “ Right,” and “Rorquals." They are all of huge size, and easy to distinguish one from the other. In all the head is from one-third to one-half of the total bulk. The Right Whale has no dorsal fin, and rarely exceeds sixty feet in length. The Sperm has a hump on the back, and has been killed over eighty feet in length. The Rorqual has this hump developed into a tendinous dorsal fin, and attains the length of one hundred feet, thus claim- ing to be the biggest of living creatures. The Sperm Whale, or Cachalot, is found chiefly in the tropical seas of the southern hemisphere, and has a large “swallow” and a row of forty to fifty enormous conical teeth in the It appears to feed by taking in a mouthful of sea, full even fishes, and then ejecting the water, and using the teeth as a sieve to retain the food. A big " fish” will yield one hundred barrels of sperm oil from its blubber or “blanket.” “ blanket.” And, besides this from his head is obtained about twenty-four barrels of “spermaceti while the intestines provide a secretion valued as the ambergris of com- The cars of the huge beast are mere minute holes that will hardly admit of the insertion of a small quill. These whales come to the surface for ten minutes at a tiine to breathe, blowing for three minutes continuously. They then “peak their flukes,” and disappear into unknown depths often Occasionally the voyager is lucky enough to witness , The Right Whale (Balana mysticetus) is found only in temperate meter, and the well-known “baleen,” or whalebone, hangs, as it were, smallest of animalcula. Though its ears lower jaw. of animalcula and ; merce. for more than an hour. pletely out of the water. or arctic seas. from blunt lives habitually on minute, and its eyes the are see S.S: 543 36 39 40 43 37 3841 47 45 58 56 42 53 51 59 57 34 4852 46/50 con lo 35 R ST STEWARDESS awesi OXYLIOMT KVLONT SKYLIGHT SATW LADIG 16 9 10 12 30 32 21 23 3126 33128 27 29 2215 24|17 18 ༧ པའི་ o Oy 20 (13 54 SATH T 69 70165 FAMILY ONIO COOK are 66 61 62 59 57 53 bo 68 63 64 60 50 520 50 SETURI GIFICERS • MAKER DENTUERU QURTLERUNUMUR NORTH DRAWS 67 58 55 56 HATC SECOND SALOON LALOON BAR ALE LAN ROOM 46 FIRST SALOON SECOND SALOON 45 LADIES 71 72 MAYON 75 76 791 84 81183 OPTIONS 48 BATU LADIES LADIES OB No ) jo! 73 74 77 78 80 82 85 86 CHIMBORAZO" 63 Big STOVO UNO OSTAL MKORS SHOP SCULLERY . MAR Oy PANTRY 64 65 FIRST SALOON SALOON 66 67 # LIRCN ASTER 68 69 70 71 w MALDON GALLY MATCH LUREN MERT 72 73 1 2 Woo 74 75 CHIC TOWARD BARBER GENTLERE'S MATNS CHIE ENGINEER ENGINEERS MESS ROON 76 ENGINEER UNNERS 77 5 6 9 10 17 18 3 1 7 4 2 8 12 15 13 16 14 SECOND SALOON PORE TAOLE 19 20 PARTLY CASH LOWER BERTY FORE BRASOV IN CABIN LOVE IT DWT 23 24 MATCH 37 38 391 o 35 36 31 32 25 26 27 28 4 42 43 29 30 44 33 34 ODD NUMBERS ARE UPPER BERTHS. 94 - . PER NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. 95 li and hear with great acuteness, but only under water. This whale may also be distinguished from the “Sperm” by its manner of "blowing." It comes to the surface frequently, rarely remaining below for more than fifteen minutes; and at the surface it makes eight or nine short blows in about three minutes. This species yield most valuable "train oil,” as it is technically termed, all from the blanket or blubber incasing the body. An average whale will yield £450 worth of oil and about £250 worth of whalebone. Of the Rorquals, with their dorsal fins and huge size, little more need be said than that their poverty in oil and peculiar ferocity make them shunned by all whalers. Porpoises.—of the smaller cetaceans all have heads in more artistic proportion to their bodies than have their larger brethren. All have tecth, and live by catching fish. They are active and fast swimmers playing with provoking ease round a vessel steaming its hardest. Among the larger kinds frequently seen are the Grampus and the White Fish, rarely exceeding twenty feet in length, and to be distinguished from young whales by their prominent dorsal fin. Of the smaller kinds, the Porpoises have a dorsal fin well developed; varieties such as the “bottle-nose,” the “white-beak,” and “necked-dolphin" are sufficiently described under their names for casual recognition. All these smaller kinds may be captured by harpooning from the vessel when she is not travelling more than three miles in the hour. They will seldom take bait; but they afford capital cuts” for the table. In “Merry England," of old, cooks prided themselves on cutting fish, flesh, or fowl out of the same porpoise. The Greenlander is reported to “quaff its oil as the most delicious of draughts." The Indians of the North American Atlantic coast do a considerable , business in shooting porpoises with shot guns from canoes, and extracting six or seven gallons of good illuminating oil from each. From the jaws, about half a pint of most valuable lubricating oil may be obtained. The skin of all these smaller cetaceans is generally known in commerce as "porpoise hide." The Microscope at Sea. The sea, especially on or near the surface, is full of living organisms; the greater proportion of these are invisible to the naked eye, but when, as is frequently the case, they exist in dense numbers, they cause 96 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. distinct discoloration, and at night their luminosity will excite general admiration. Much interesting and instructive work may be done with a microscope, if, when pace is ever slackened, a muslin net be towed over- board for a few minutes. On its being carefully washed out in a glass of water, the eye will discern, and the microscope explain, a host of interesting objects. But even a casual bucket of sea-water strained through muslin, will yield ample material for investigation. Of marine organisms, those which most frequently occur belong to the lower divisions or groups of the animal kingdom. Of the Molluscs, the Squids, or Cuttle-fish, are often met of small size, but in vast numbers, discolouring the ocean for miles. On such a mass whales delight to feed. Occasionally species of larger size are to be seen floating on the surface of the sea. Lately, especially on the Labrador coast, many huge specimens have been captured, with bodies twenty feet long, and arms extending twenty feet around. Nautilus.—Another cuttlefish inhabits a fragile but very beautiful shell and is known as the “Nautilus.” In its normal condition it lives, and seeks its food, crawling at the bottom of the sea. It can, however, rise at pleasure, and in calm weather will be seen at the surface, along which it progresses as do other cephalopods by admitting sea-water into its body and ejecting it, thus producing a retrograde motion. The sail-like arms correspond with the mantle in molluscs, and form a close covering to the shell. Passing to Crustaceans, we light upon a peculiarly numerous tribe, crablike and shrimplike, occasionally met with in enormous quantities. The Mysis, which has been described as a “shrimp-bug," has an inveterate habit of springing out of the water; denses masses of these form what is known as “whales' food,” and discolour the sea sometimes for miles. Zoophytes.—Of Zoophytes, of which the lower classes seem to form a connecting link between animal and vegetable life, the ocean is full. The larger of these may sometimes be seen in millions from the deck of the steamer. Among the most conspicuous is a singular creature popularly known as the Portuguese Man-of-war (Physalia pelagica). To this zoophyte is often improperly applied the term nautilus, which belongs in science to a shell- The physalia are seen floating sometimes singly, sometimes in vast numbers, in tropical seas. They have a bladder-like body of inhabiting mollusc. elicate light blue small globules. by The forms Below the “ jelly fish.” A more numerous can be or the same direction. tint. They tribe are inches in length, surmounted pleasure, and which the larger and older NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. tubes with suckers, which Below this again are several feet, and they sting severely, even a darker shade below, egg-shaped, and appear to have the is pink in the smaller and gradually deepens into or beaches after storms, full of air, and may be seen a crest, which can be raised or low numbers during very rough weather. of a dark blue colour, resembling like a basin floating bottom upwards ; hangs a bunch of short flas! nately, and so propel the animal thro2 stomach or central body of the of sinking varying considerably in size are met W extended to a These zoophy They are found th on the surface Of other swimming zoophytes, Fishermen might take a hin transparent of gelatinous ma “phosphorescent” powers, and the dis be agitated by the motion of the sh= animalcula and zoophytes in the neigt of water drawn at night and left quie becomes vividly bright. Thirty thous above and specimens. tentacles tentacles Contracted after death. will. mass sides are drawn in an h the water. From t the mouth of the sto in immense shoals, have tentacles, inva for their lines an Sp. vario re are many veneris), ribbon-lil set, width with a aken for some form ever, will m notice existence by the phosphorescent li living forms. 2ce of animated crea of these bein boat, or by is made by of the agit black; E been is that them is attaining lower side hang tentacles the Meduse, familiari th All these zoophy universal colour of these fishers dependent on two conditions—the Girdle (Cestur/ ہے th porpoises, at once a “phosphorescent six mis ing illumination proceeds exclusively the Venus at night of what is incorrectly known these various zoophytes yield of thei inches. These are not unfrequently m Luminosity-What passengers, ho a length of five or pres rom urbing or display pourhood cent is dead sparks 2d have 98 NATURAL HISTORY AT SEA. ashore. The male turtle indeed never leaves the water, but the female goes wards displayed all the energy of life. In another case, he cut out brain, the creature lived and groped about for six months afterwards; but, washed up by the sea, and lying sun-dried on the shore, the wind playing bucketful, each of which, if seen under the microscope, would be found attached to a separate living organism. Buffon and others attributed the light to elec- tricity. Modern research has suggested putrefaction of animal substances, the crystallisation of such salts as soda and potash giving off similar effulgence. But the light is seen inside the living beings, and they exhibit it in fresh water, or even in spirits, or in air; but probably not long after death. It would appear to be due to some action, whether chemical or magnetic is not yet determined, dependent on the living organs being in a state of excitement. The analogous light of the firefly only occurs in the female, and is specially prominent in spring; it has been assumed to be a means of attracting the male. But the excitement that lights up the ocean animalcula seems that of fear rather than love ; eyes have been found in the Pleurotoma dredged up from the bottom, one mile below the surface. The peculiar sharks caught in water five hundred fathoms deep off the coast of Portugal have eyes. How is light provided in these deeps impermeable to the sun's rays ? Sir Wyville Thomson indorses the suggestion “the whole of the light beyond a certain depth may be due to phosphorescence;” if this be so, the luminosity of the sea is a mere superficial exhibition of one of the most wonderful of providential contrivances for enabling animals to live, where otherwise the darkness is profound. Turtles.—During calm weather in the tropics Turtles may be seen basking calmly on the surface. They may be readily captured from a boat-if care be taken first of all to “shoot” the boat up to them with no splash of oar or noise in the boat. One man leaning out over the bows, quietly grasps the turtle by one flapper, and easily turns it on its back. But turtles are usually caught ashore to lay her eggs, and so becomes the turtle of aldermanic commerce. The Italian professor Redi has reported some cruel vivisective experiments upon turtles. He cut off a turtle's head, and the body for some time after- all the though the opening in the skull healed over, no new brain was ever formed. A pretty Greek legend attributes the origin of "string" music to a dead turtle harmoniously among its dried tendons. UNDER THE SEA. 99 as can hardly realise their magnitude, of depressions of land Seaweed.—Rarely seen save in the neighbourhood of land or in one or two remarkable eddies of the ocean. The most famous of these eddy beds the Sargasso Sea, in the North Atlantic. is that known It lies to the westward of the Canary Islands, and is in the eddy caused by the Gulf Stream. There congregate large masses of the Sargassum vulgare and Sargassum bacciferum, the “Tropic grape,"yellow sea-weeds that abound in large areas of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, especially within live and increase indefinitely in the open ocean, but only the tropics, that produce their fructification when growing attached to rocks on the sea-shore. CHAPTER VII.-UNDER THE SEA. IN our remarks upon the Cape and Suez routes, occasional reference was made to the rocky headlands and island groups by which the voyager is Carried, and the preceding chapter has been devoted to "Natural History at Sea.” Our description would be incomplete without a reference to what is beneath the waves, the bed of the sea above which the steamship travels : but some preliminary remarks are necessary. There are few educated readers at the present day who have not acquired some information, however superficial, of the physical history of the earth. The revelations of gcology, and the teachings of what is known “ Darwinism,” have resulted in a singular advance in all modern thought; and theories which were once stoutly contested, and inferences which were treated with ridicule, are now regarded as facts so well established that they hardly require demonstration; or as so just and reasonable, that even if not at once accepted they are at least held worthy of consideration. That the relative arrangement of land and water has undergone many and extensive changes is not now denied, and even the immense periods of hundreds of thousands of years which are assumed to have and which must must have certainly passed away while many of these important changes were being effected, are now generally allowed. Proof sufficient in our own country of upheavals so vast that the as time, the elapsed, There is imagination SO H 2 100 UNDER THE SEA. Crowns perhaps of some hunter or fisherman who plied his trade when the mammoth, isles. The chalk beds to the right have a much earlier history, and deep and so gradual that untold ages must have witnessed their completion. Sea shells and marine remains of comparatively recent species are found on the higher slopes of Moel-Tryfaen in Snowdonia. The greater part of Scotland was, in times yet nearer to our own, more than 2,000 feet below its present level ; while at some earlier period, how far back we cannot even suggest, stratified beds of sand and shale and coal, 10,000 feet in thickness, have been planed away from a large part of the district now known as South Wales, and every foot of clay, of sand, or gravel which fills our English valleys, or her hills, bears witness to the action of ice, or waves, or running water. The possibilities everywhere of alterations in the levels of land and sea must therefore be accepted, and the strange results which such oscillations would effect may be temperately discussed. With these ideas we will again follow the steamship’s track, and endeavour to describe the possible as well as the certain changes which mark her path. Before leaving the Thames, the outgoing voyager will remark, upon his left, a long expanse of low-lying land behind the tidal embankment, while on his right, at some distance from the shore, he will see chalky cliffs and downs, like those with which perhaps he has become familiar in railway journeys, north and south of London. The low-lying lands on the left have in many places been excavated, especially where the large docks at Tilbury are now in course of formation. There are here three distinct beds of peat, separated from each other by well marked deposits of mud and clay and gravel. These peat beds, as proved by their contents, are of three very different ages. and The most recent, now buried beneath a thick clay, was once a forest of birch and hazel, standing well above low water; below it lies a second bed of clay, deposited by some ancient river, which filled the whole valley of the Thames from hill to hill; lower still is a deep sand bed, in which, below the present surface, has been found a human skeleton, the remains the cave-bear and the hyæna ranged freely over what are now the British tell of far greater changes ; measuring in some places over a thousand feet in thick- ness, they were, as their fossilized contents reveal, deposited beneath the sea, where, for untold ages, they were slowly formed from living coral, upper 34 feet and the UNDER THE SEA. 101 sea. . constructed sea-wall, which is not yearly receding. Shakespeare's Cliff at Dover remains of coral animals, sponges and molluscs, and the numerous lime- secreting organisms which to this day abound at varying depths in the open The evidence is conclusive, and in its presence no theory or tradition existence of sea or land, where water or hill and valley of the former now prevails, should be rejected as improbable. North Foreland, the steamship enters a channel of moderate Passing the the Kentish coast, and what are now known as the Goodwin depth between Sands, covered, at high tide, with from one to three fathoms of water. These dangerous sands, in which many a good ship has found her grave, were, says tradition, at one time part of the estates of Goodwin, earl of Kent, the father of the unfortunate Harold, who yielded both life and kingdom in fight with William, earl of Normandy. The destruction of the land in this case was not occasioned by a ny local depression of the country, but has been caused by the wasting action of the water, such as is perpetually at work along our eastern catastrophe no doubt being due to some break or fault in the Coast, (the final strata), and at the present day beds of shifting sand, below which are found the clays and chalk of the adjoining mainland, are all that remain of what once were fertile fields and woods. Entering what is marked on the chart as the Straits of Dover, the sea-bed as compared with the greater depths of the German Ocean gradually shallows from 120 fathoms to 58, to 38 and 18, and in one part to less than 2 fathoms; the dividing ridge follows a line drawn between Romney Marsh and Boulogne. From this the English Channel deepens slowly as we proceed westward, so that the Straits of Dover may be said to part two seas. In comparatively recent times, as geologists count time, the Straits and even the English Channel did not exist, and, except that south of Brighton, about half way between the present coasts, the soundings tell of what must have once been a considerable lake extending towards the west, continuous hill and valley whole area now covered by the sea, and the perpetual widening of the channel by the wasting action of the waves the English coast-line affords the clearest There is not a single cliff or headland unprotected by carefully evidence, is no ancient The longer the “ fearful and dizzy height” described 250 years ago. of Lyonesse, known in Arthurian romance, has disappeared, realm 102 UNDER THE SEA. marked this sounding; the first death on board had taken place from an accident 1 brilliant and unclouded sunshine can penetrate, and, so great is the pressure loaded with pig-iron”; yet a living creature, supported in all its tissues within and without by incompressible fluid, at the same pressure, is not incommoded. The profoundest depths of the Atlantic lie further to the west, some hundred miles north of the Antilles. At one place nearly 4,000 fathoms was reached, constructed for deep-sea sounding were crushed as in a vice. A sad incident but in almost every bay along the southern coast, extending far beyond low water mark, traces still exist of the forests which once clothed a pleasant undulating land, diversified with lake and running water, above which fishermen now drag their nets; it needs but 200 feet of elevation to displace the sea, though it might not restore the face of the country disintegrated by the wearing action of the waves; a general upheaval of 600 feet extending over the whole of northern Europe would efface the Baltic and the German Ocean, unite in one country the whole of the British Islands from the Shetlands to the Scillies, and carry the empire of England 10 degrees further to the west. Leaving the English Channel the track of the steamer lies in a south- westerly direction. Passing Ushant on the left, the 100 fathom line is soon reached, and the voyager is borne above the deeper waters of the Bay of Biscay : within a few miles the sounding line would tell of an almost precipitous descent of 1,000 fathoms, and before the lead could be recovered, a still deeper valley of 2,000 fathoms is reached. Soon again the sea bed rises rapidly, and before reaching Cape Finisterre the deepest water has been passed, and the ship’s course follows a line of shallower water along the coasts of Portugal and Spain. Two thousand fathoms, (12,000 feet) does not measure by any means the deepest part of the Atlantic, but even at 2,000 fathoms it was long supposed that the existence of animal life was impossible. One result of the scientific voyage of The Challenger has been to show that the lower forms of life are not injuriously affected by the singular conditions which prevail at so great a depth. It is an abyss into which not the faintest ray of the of the superincumbent water, that, as Wyville Thompson, the historian of the expedition, expressed it, “ at 2,000 fathoms a man would bear upon the surface of his body a weight equal to twenty locomotive engines, each with a long train (3985), and the pressure proved so enormous that strong thermometers most 1 C specially UNDER THE SEA. 103 the previous day, and for a poor sailor boy a grave was found in the deepest spot which has ever been fathomed in the occan. Just as in the seas which have already been passed through, the bed of the Atlantic wherever it has been sounded is found to vary greatly in depth. Our knowledge of the irregularities is to a large extent due to the carcful soundings which have preceded the laying of the Atlantic telegraph cables. One result has been to show that in the neighbourhood of the Azores, lying to the west of the Orient track, and also of the Madeira Islands, the Salvages and the Cape De Verdes, which are more to the south-west, the sea is shallower than elsewhere, and it is possible to map out, though somewhat roughly, more than one platcau at a very considerable elevation above the rest. These discoveries reopen a question which has interested the scientific world for more than two thousand years: it is, whether one or more of these groups of islands are not the few remains of a continent which once assisted to span the gulf between the new world and the old; the fabled, the mythical, but perhaps actual “Atlantis”; the country of which Plato wrote as once existing beyond the Pillars of Hercules (the rocks of Calpe and Abyla), which guard the entrance to the Mediterranean; the land in which were placed the Elysian Fields, and the Garden of the Hesperides; from which the early civilisation of Greece and Egypt, and Asia Minor, were derived ; and whose kings and heroes were the Olympian deities of a later time. The legend enshrined in the Critias of Plato is of singular interest. It is told as an old world story, the repetition of an earlier tradition, learned by Solon at the lips of the Egyptian priests. It is of a mighty nation who dug canals, built ships and temples and palaces, and in pursuit of trade or warfare extended their empire over the whole of the then known world, but who perished utterly from the face of the earth in a fearful convulsion, when there occurred, “violent earthquakes and floods, and in a single day and night, the island of Atlantis disappeared, and sank into the sea.” Of the possibility of such a catastrophe there can be no doubt; all these islands are more or less volcanic, and with the evidence continually afforded, in other parts of the world, of the enormous forces exercised by internal heat in the upheaval or depression of very considerable areas of country, we cannot reject this legend of the destruction of Atlantis on the ground of improbability. It must at the same time be acknowledged that the objections to the theory may not be lightly set aside. Naturalists will con- tend that, if this continent existed, the flora and fauna of the Eastern and 104 UNDER THE SEA. ; the lost cities of Central America were a hundred years hence perchance the dredge will Leaving the Atlantic and its mysterious traditions, the Mediterranean is entered by the well-known Straits of Gibraltar. The sea rapidly shallows from Western Hemispheres would show some closer relationship: and geologists may argue that the period of its elevation must have been too remote to have in- fluenced historic times, or have become the subject of tradition. On the other hand, there are many mysteries which the former existence of Atlantis would resolve. Among these are the almost universal legends of a deluge, bearing curious resemblance, which it is difficult to believe are accidental, but which the existence and destruction of Atlantis would explain ; there are similarities in custom and modes of worship, in forms of building and even resemblances in letters and ihe construction of language, which point to some common origin. The sculptured stones of Asia are rivalled in Central America and in Peru; the pyramid of Cheops is surpassed by the pyramid of Cholulo which stands on four times the area of the building by the Nile. The arched entrance to the treasure house of Atreus at Mycenæ, and the Palenque arch of the Aztecs, as pictured in Baldwin's Ancient America, are designed on almost identical lines. The traces of ancient serpent-worship prevail on either side, the stone implements, the stone axes and arrow-heads, sole relics of a primæval people, belong to both shores of the Atlantic; and from this lost continent may have come the more mysterious weapons of bronze, an alloy of copper and tin, whose manufacture it is almost impossible to attribute to the barbarous tribes with whose remains they are preserved. Of these Sir John Lubbock writes, “Not only are the several varieties of Celts found throughout Europe alike, but some of the swords, knives, daggers, etc., are so similar that they seem as if they must have been cast by the same maker.” Whether the will ever be definitely solved it is impossible even to conjecture. A years ago the world knew nothing of Herculaneum, the site of Nineveh was , undiscovered ; have penetrated beneath the calcareous mud, the “globigerina ooze,” deep accumulations of dead coral, foraminifera and shell-bearing rhizopods which form the floor of the Atlantic, and our museums be enriched with statues, arms, and implements from this long forgotten land, the locality and the cradle of the human race. 950 fathoms between Gibraltar and Ceuta, until, along a line from Cape -- question A hundred the of Eden, UNDER THE SEA. 105 Trafalgar to Cape Spartel, a distance of 22 miles, a submarine ridge of rock is found, about seven miles in breadth, on which the depth nowhere reaches 200 fathoms. After this the water deepens, until south of Sardinia in about 5° W. Longitude, it reaches 10,000 feet. On the “ Adventure” and “Medina" banks the water shallows to 200 fathoms, beyond which is the eastern basin, where at a point between Malta and Crete the sounding line records nearly 14,000 feet. A third ridge or plateau lies between the Grecian Archi- pelago and the coast of Africa, and soon a depth of 6,000 feet is reached, but the water again shallows as the vessel nears Port Said. These submarine ridges at one time formed a land connection between Europe and Northern Africa, the Mediterranean then existing only as three inland seas. It is probable that at the same period the Sahara Desert was much below its present level, and a continuous sea or strait extended from the Bay of Bengal to the Atlantic Ocean. The bed of the Red Sea is comparatively shallow, and is chiefly interesting in that towards its southern extremity are seen large numbers of massive “coral plants” of a sub-littoral type, which have been growing in .their place for centuries. Single corals of the genus Mæandrina and Favia, having a globular form, from six to nine feet in diameter, have been observed, on which, says Ehrenberg, the Pharaohs may have looked, of immense antiquity. Beyond Cape Guardafui lie the two islands described by Marco Polo, which the “salvage men” and their wives inhabited apart, and beyond them Socotra, famous—or rather infamous—for its enchanters, who, he writes, “could make the winds blow as they desired, and produce great tempests and disasters." From this the track, as stated before, crosses the north-western part of the Indian Ocean in a direct line for the Chagos Archipelago. There is a tradition that below this sea lies another buried continent, in which, as in Atlantis, have been localized the four rivers and the pleasant land of Eden, the scene of the creation of man. The theory of a pre-existing land, as we have already seen, involves no geo- logical improbability; the very formation of the atolls and coral-reefs, with which parts of this sea are studded, requires the gradual subsidence of the land, and in fact, it is known that the whole area is still slowly sinking—from Madagascar and the Mauritius to the Chagos Archipelago and Ceylon, and to the Laccadives and Maldives, off the coast of Malabar, the twelve thousand islands of the old geographers. But co:npared with the traditions of “Atlantis," the legends of '106 UNDER THE SEA. with which we are familiar, but instead are genera which belong to the adjoining C! C 0 P One British Islands might be set down, with hundreds of square miles to spare, is is no native cat or tiger, no sheep, or deer, or oxen, or any form of guadruped strictly Indian ; while on the other, in the still larger island of New Guinea, there “Lemuria" are few and uncertain, and the extent of this lost country beneath ttie ocean is even less well defined. On the mountain of Sakya-muni in Ceylon, the ancient Seilan, a Kist-vaen or megalithic building was long venerated as the sepulchre of Adam. “There,” says a traveller of the early fourteenth century, John of Marignolli, “is the dwelling-place of Adam, which he built with his Own hands; it is of an oblong shape like a tomb, made of great slabs of marble laid upon another”; but Marco Polo, who visited Seilan some seventy years before, and heard the story, declared that, “according to the Scriptures of our Lord, the sepulchre of Adam is not in that part of the world.” As the print of Adam's foot remains, and, varying no doubt in proportion to the faith of the visitor, measures from three to five feet in length, the cautious Venetian showed, perhaps, his better judgment in rejecting the tradition. Probably the legend of Lemuria would have been long since forgotten, but for the unexpected support which it has received from more recent theories as to the geographical distribution of animals. It is found that certain unusual forms of animal life are peculiar to the islands which surround or lie within this area, and the former existence of a continent which at its northern extremity would connect Africa with Western India, and whose southern range extended so far as the deeper seas between Malaya and Ceylon might account for their occurrence. Beyond Lemuria and Diego Garcia, of which we before have spoken, is a deep channel, which, continued in a north-easterly direction passes east of Java and Borneo, and to the south of the Philippines, dividing these from the Australian region in which are the islands of Celebes, of the Moluccas, of Floris, Timor, and New Guinea. This channel of unknown depth, though in places, as between Lombok and Bali, only a few miles wide, narrower in fact than the Straits of Dover, sharply separates the Australian region from that of India. Although these groups of islands, north and north-west of the continent of Australia, are known by the general name of the Malayan Archipelago, the vegetable and animal life of the areas thus divided are singularly unlike, the contrast great as between the flora and fauna of the Old World and the New. one side, the indigenous life of Borneo, within whose area the whole of the $ is as On the , UNIVERSAL TIME. 107 continent of Australia. Of seventeen mammals yet discovered, fourteen arc marsupial; about one half of the land birds of New Guinea are Australian ; the common trees of Timor are various species of Eucalypti; and if these and other genera and species, animal and vegetable, are compared, although the physical conditions are so different–New Guinea with its luxuriant forests and moist hot climate, and Australia with its stony plains and dried-up water-courses -the similarity in their natural productions is the more surprizing, and un- mistakably points to some earlier period, we know not how remote, when one vast continent extended from Tasmania to the equator, comprizing within its area not only what is now known as Australia, but the thousand islands beneath the tropics and the more important island of New Guinea. CHAPTER VIII.- UNIVERSAL TIME. In the preceding Chapters we have seen how to the student of Natural Science a sea voyage is a never-ending source of delight; it must not be imagined however that there are not phenomena to be studied from day to day which are quite as interesting to lovers of the various branches of Physical Science. One of the most remarkable experiments in the domain of physical science made during the present century has been that which we owe to the genius of the illustrious Foucault, who has demonstrated for us, after so many thousand years of doubt, the earth's daily rotation on its axis. Now, the various results of this rotation can nowhere better be studied than at sea, especially on such a voyage as between England and Australia, which are nearly antipodal to each other; and there is an especial interest in these results just now for the reason that the time arrangements of our planet are about to be considerably altered and improved. On these grounds, therefore, we purpose to show in the present Chapter how a voyage in an Orient steamer in either direction may be utilised in acquiring accurate information on a subject of world-wide interest. We have already, in the Chapter on Navigation, referred to the question of longitude, which of course forms a part of the main subject; we shall, however, have to treat it in a more general way, in order to state more fully the various alterations in the planet's time-arrangements to which we have already referred 108 UNIVERSAL TIME. known world, which was then Cape St. Vincent, in the region which they had most closely studied, and this strangely enough passed through the eastern The next geographical discovery made was that the Fortunate Islands, now called the Canaries, in which the imagination of the Greeks had placed the Gardens of the Hesperides and all their delights, had a more westerly longitude To begin at the beginning. Before the carth's rotation was accepted we find the world known to the ancients to be that part of our planet bounded on the north by the Baltic and Black Sea; on the west by the Shetlands, Ireland, the coast of Spain, and a part of Africa ; on the east by Ceylon; and on the south by an imaginary sea. Long before observations of latitude and longitude in the present sense were thought of, the ancients knew that the length, or longitude, of the world as they then knew it, from Spain to Ceylon, was greater than its breadth, or latitude, from the imaginary sea to the Baltic ; and in the two dimensions of the oblong world imagined by them, we have the origin of the terms longitude and latitude, which are still retained though we are dealing with a sphere. Again, before they knew the world was round, they attempted to lay down lines showing latitudes and longitudes. The way for this was prepared by the elaborate records and studies of Eratosthenes, touching the various distances in stadia from one place to another; coupled with the fact that was then established, that this oblong world of theirs really was laid out on a spherical surface, and not on a flat one; it was seen that the lines longitude must pass through the poles of the sphere, and that the lines showing latitudes must be parallel to its equator; they also saw that to deal with longitude accurately, one of the semicircles must be taken as a starting point, this they called primus meridianus—the origin of the words prime meridian, about which we shall hear so much in the next few years. first maps which were prepared by Marinus of Tyre and Ptolemy, two centuries after Christ, the top of the map was north and the left hand west ; and although this was reversed for a time by the Arabs, because they wrote from right to left, the first mode has remained down to our own day. It was imagined, that the prime meridian should pass through the most westerly point of the portion of Britannia, and very near the Shetlands, the Ultima Thule of the ancient geographers; we may say, in short, that the first meridian known, so as England was concerned, passed very near the present meridian of Greenwich. of In the far 109 extra I m&um --- 170 therefore .ccording Islands, graphers, etermine ferred to rly point bured by st of the saries, till i. Since airly say s greater confined s lippophagi . chardes thia Issedo nesy Otwroc 30 Imus ae police Fm 20 naus Serus. El Dorias Doenas 10 Vindius M. India trans Gangem But what north to the other tre of the distances, le famous approach. Iblis, and o be the i impious Magnus S. cis Gange m Sobanas Saims E. Sinus Gangeticus Sabaricus Chryse Chersones Cottaris I Sabando Agathodeemonis I. hane . tude are Natural s cloaked hours was ide them, intervals -2 of Ancient -- 108 To begin at t we find the world I on the north by tl Ireland, the coast and on the south and longitude in t the length, or long Ceylon, was greate the Baltic; and in we have the origi retained though w Again, before t lines showing latit by the elaborate distances in stadia then established, 1 spherical surface, longitude must pa showing latitudes with longitude acc point, this they ( meridian, about wl first maps which w after Christ, the to this was reversed i left, the first mod that the prime m known world, whic most closely stud portion of Britanr ancient geographes as England was co The next geog called the Canarie Gardens of the He UNIVERSAL TIME. 109 I than the Sacred Promontory, now Cape St. Vincent, and maps were therefore constructed with this prime meridian. Such a map, showing the world according to Ptolemy's ideas, with the longitude reckoned from the Fortunate Islands, is given in illustration of this article. Some more accurate geographers, however, rebelled against this, for the reason that it was dificult to determine the exact longitude of the islands; these geographers therefore preferred to place the prime meridian so that it passed through the most westerly point of Africa, adjacent to the islands; and this prime meridian was favoured by the Arab geographers. Later on it varied to points even to the west of the Fortunate Islands, and at last settled down on Ferro, one of the Canaries, till such time as the observatories of Paris and Greenwich were founded. Since then other prime meridians have been introduced, and we may fairly say that nowadays the confusion in our maps owing to this circumstance is greater than it ever was at the time when a knowledge of geography was confined to the students in the great Alexandrine or Arab schools. No prime meridian, for instance, ever passed through Alexandria. But what the Arabs were greatly interested in was the meridian running from north to south, and dividing the known world into two equal portions, one east and the other west. Where this line cut the equator was, according to them, the centre of the earth, or, at least, of its surface, having no latitude, and situated at equal distances, 90°, from the four cardinal points of the earth. Here they imagined the famous Dome of Azin or Arin, an enchanted temple or castle most difficult of approach. According to the opinions of somc, in it was to be seen the throne of Iblis, and it was the home of demons. The Persians and others believed this to be the centre of created things and of their contrasts, and stories fabulous and impious are told of its inhabitants, who were called Manichaeans. The first demonstration of the fact that differences of longitude are associated with differences of local time are to be found in Pliny's Natural History; but this fact, which comes out so strongly in a sea voyage, was cloaked to the ancients by the other fact that their division of the day into hours was so widely different from our own. They had only the sun-dial to guide them, and this being so, they made the best of the matter by dividing the intervals 1 The map is based upon a larger one, given by Bunbury in his admirable History of Ancient Geography (Murray). - UNIVERSAL TIME. III purposes of ordinary life, for the reason that twelve o'clock, say, would mean, at one time of the year, the middle of the day, at another midnight; at another the time of sunrise, at another the time of sunset. Astronomers, however, use it to get another time which is much more adapted for the ordinary purposes of life. This time has reference to the sun instead of to the stars, and is so arranged that its start point is always exactly noon; like sidereal time, it runs through twenty-four hours; this is termed astronomical mean (or average) time, for the reason that true sun time, such as that shown by a sundial, is for two chief reasons, which we need not refer to here, too irregular for astronomical use. To bring about perfect regularity and precision astronomers make use of an imaginary sun going at an equal rate along the celestial equator, instead of the true sun going with a variable rate along the ecliptic; and the length of the mean or average solar day is the average of all the true solar days in the year. We have now, then, passed from star time to inean astronomical time, each running from one to twenty-four hours, the former beginning with the transit of the first point of Aries, which may happen at any time of the day or night, the latter with the transit of the mean sun over the meridian of a place, which can only happen at noon. There is yet something wanting for the purposes of civil life. The astronomical day-that regulated by the mean sun-begins at noon, whereas, as already has been pointed out, our day naturally begins at midnight. We have then yet a third kind of time, which is called Civil Time, and this is the time used for the purposes of ordinary life. It begins at mean midnight and runs to the next mean midnight, two batches of twelve hours intervening instead of one batch of twenty-four. The length of the civil day is the same as the length of the astronomical mean day, only the start point is different, and therefore the length of the hours, minutes, and seconds are the same, all of them being slightly longer than their equivalents in sidereal time; the reason of this is that in consequence of the earth's motion round the sun, which is from west to east, after a place on the earth's surface has got to the same position with regard to the same star. after one rotation from west to east, it is not yet in the same position with regard to the sun which it occupied yesterday; it has still to travel through a small angle, and the time spent in travelling this small additional angle necessitates that the hours, &c., of sun time shall' be slightly longer than the hours, &c., of star time. II2 UNIVERSAL TIME. the days as they are near the meridian of 180°. It is known that some islands not very distant from Australia, were discovered by vessels going eastward and meeting the sun, and others going westward, or with it; hence the day carried to It will be seen then that at the present day we are in a muddle both as regards longitudes and as regards time. Neither of these muddles touches the person who stays at home and who interests himself merely in his own Personal affairs. It is only the traveller who feels the loss of time spent in comparing maps, the longitudes of which start from different prime meridians, take English and French maps as an instance. It is only the man who has large telegraphic dealings with every part of the world, or who takes long journeys frequently, or who studies phenomena which interest every part of the world alike, who has to face the difficulties encountered in turning a hundred local times into the time of his own place, be that London or Melbourne. The loss of time and labour involved in this way has at last attracted such general attention that a Conference was called together by the American government last year to consider the whole question ; and the proposals of this Conference-wise and important proposals—are at the present moment before all the civilised countries of the world for their consideration and approval. The first resolution adopted was that in the matter of prime meridians we shall go back to the condition of things in Ptolemy's time, that is to say, there shall be but one, and that one is to be that which passes through the central wire of the transit instrument of the Royal Observatory at Greenwich. If this is acted upon, in course of years all navigators who make the voyage from Europe to Australia, or any other, will use maps in which the longitudes of the various places, like the latitudes, shall be independent of the origin of the this will be a great boon for travellers, inasmuch as it will do away with all risks arising from any inaccuracy or neglect in allowing for the differences of longitudes now shown in different maps for the same stretch of ocean. Next the Conference proposes that the present arrangement of reckoning 180° longitude east and west from the prime meridian is to stand. The various longitudes therefore between England and Australia will remain as they exist at present on English charts, instead of being all changed, as they would have been, if, as was proposed by some, the longitude should have been reckoned through 360°, going westward. This arrangement, also, has the advantage of retaining maps; and these islands was different according to th: direction in which they reached were UNIVERSAL TIME. 113 We pass now from longitude to time. In this matter the new proposal is that there shall be a something else in the way of time at each place besides its own local time; that instead of there being a day or a period of twenty-four hours only for each place, that there shall be a day or period of twenty-four hours for the planet taken as a whole; this day is to begin at mean midnight of the prime meridian, and is to be counted through twenty-four hours to the next mean midnight. Now here a very important point comes in. This of course is astronomical time, par excellence, and yet the Conference proposes that it shall begin at mean midnight instead of at mean noon, as at present astronomical time does ; it will therefore run on all fours with civil time for the first twelve hours at all events, that is, till the next noon, when civil time begins again. The Conference proposes not only that astronomical mean time shall begin at midnight, but that civil time shall run from one up to twenty-four hours. It requires scarcely a moment's thought to see the enormous simplification of our time arrangements which will be brought about if these resolutions are carried out. Locally the difference between a.m. and p.m. will be abolished. Astronomical mean time and civil time will always be the same, and any confusion which at present arises from things as they are will at once be abolished, while civil time will go on being used as it is for all the ordinary purposes of life. The new Universal Time will of course be something additional at each place, to be used especially for those purposes for which it will be more convenient. These purposes will be telegraphic or astronomical, to begin with, but will not long be thus limited. Travellers will be specially interested in this new universal time, whether they travel by land or sea, for the reason that in future all changes of time depending upon change of longitude, whether in a long land journey across a continent like America, or in a long sea journey, will be made in hours or half-hours, starting from the prime meridian. Watches will not be changed according to the time of the prime meridian of each country, but according to the distance from the prime meridian of the planet. In America, for instance, at the present moment, there are five times shown by the clocks from the Atlantic to the Pacific sca-board: we have Inter- colonial time, Eastern time, Central time, Mountain time, and Pacific time. All represent even hours of Greenwich time, so that an English watch will only I 114 UNIVERSAL TIME. I submit hour east of London, Cyprus and Natal two hours, Aden three hours, Mauritius four hours, Bombay five hours, Calcutta six hours, Singapore seven hours, West Australia eight hours, Central Australia nine hours, and Eastern Australia , Indeed, I can imagine the traveller's watch of the future showing minutes dial and the local hour on another. require its hour hand altering from one ocean to another ; the minutes and seconds will be Greenwich minutes and seconds, only the hours will vary. What the Americans have done in this way for the map of America, will in time be done for the whole planet ; each difference of longitude of 15°, or each difference in time of one hour from Greenwich, will have a distinct name given to it, and probably for special purposes special names will be given. with the present article maps showing how this may be worked out for the planet generally, the names of the standard times being suggestions only, and also in the Track Chart I have given names convenient for the special needs of a voyage to or from Australia. In the Chart I have naturally chosen as a designation for each difference of an hour from Greenwich the names of those English possessions which lie most directly under the meridian in question passed by an Orient steamer, whether steaming through the Canal It is a curious thing that in this addition to the Track Chart it has come out that the various English dependencies and colonies, or definite parts of them as may be one hour apart. Thus Malta and the Cape are one ten hours—quite near enough for our present purpose. I do not for one moment propose to suggest that watches at sea shall be are altered on a voyage from Australia, there will probably be a good deal of discontent on board. if this difficulty, however, can be got over, it will be obvious that the time shown by all the watches and clocks in the world may indicate true Greenwich minutes and seconds, and that in all changes necessitated by differences of longitude the hour hand alone need be altered. and seconds apart from any locality, the Greenwich hour being given on one or round the Cape. lie as nearly they Regist 1CEL 1316 LZO 106 Sumpson co 60 DT Fun Leon Lederst Pic Istoria - Alombia T 10 C. Madacina M Fort Suthanan Montero T S.ar Sea Odol- easies fermo 10 510 NET 20 mi 80 Luster's P A C I PIC. 10 A N 15 120 105 MUDA Canarias Time ush hbian Eastern fucific Rocky Mountain 114 require second What time b differe: to it, a with t the pl only, i specia chosen names in que or rou It i that t lie as hour e fourt West ten hc Ic alterer this w they a of dis obvioi may neces: Indee and s dial a THE WEATHER AT SEA. 115 elaborate wind chart for various portions of the ocean has been published, giving the probable direction of the wind by means of the records of winds CHAPTER IX.-THE WEATHER AT SEA. The Weather Prophet at Sea.—The weather prophet at sea acquires his knowledge under peculiar conditions. The study of meteorology afloat has the advantage of being freed from the many local disturbing causes which exist on land. In first facing any science it is of the highest importance to educate the mind down to it, by mastering the important simplicities, and obtaining a true knowledge of the facts upon which the science is based. In these days of high civilisation and living in houses, the intuitive power of foretelling weather, is, apparently, in process of suppression; and it has become necessary to create a government department to supply the deficiency in this branch of knowledge, so closely connected with man's daily labours. The result has been good, because a mass of recorded facts from various points on the earth's surface have been brought together, with the result that “the weather” has now been fairly well explained. We know many of its laws though we are as yet unable to predict the actual moment of their fulfilment. A sea voyage affords a peculiarly favourable opportunity for forming familiar acquaintance with the laws of weather. The knowledge thus acquired will be found valuable in shore life. Interesting and Useful Study.—The one great function of the meteorologist at sea is the recording of facts. The Marine Department of the British Meteorological Office, under the experienced guidance of Captain Toynbee, has been for years collecting and collating facts from the “weather logs' forwarded from all parts of the ocean. The office issues a form of log to any who will fill in and return it. These records have already produced many valuable results. The paths of gales and cyclones have been traced, and an actually found blowing in previous years. . I 2 116 There are two kinds in common use. the move. travels. them—he has no daily doing in other places. the learning to foretell by the clouds. conjecture becomes verified or not, as his floating observatory is carried towards the clouds he has seen. Prediction depends on observation. temperature, moisture, and motion of the air, by means of a variety of instruments, among which even the spectroscope itself to a dial. present day still foolishly mark the face with ". THE WEATHER AT SEA. The Admiralty also publish four Wind Charts of the World, showing for each quarter of the year the probable winds that may be experienced by the sailor as he traverses the various oceans; these have been carefully compiled from a vast number of reliable observations actually made at sea. There is also a Current Chart of the three great oceans drawn upon the same principles. This atlas will be found on board the steamships. There is then much useful work to be done by recording. But in prac- tising his science at sea the weather prophet must never forget that he is on We shall speak later of the isobars and gradients in which weather The voyager may be crossing these, and is therefore not aware of " weather chart," telling him what the winds are This shifting of position is of exceptional value in The observer looks ahead of his ship, and conjectures by the clouds what weather he is likely to meet. His The observer records the pressure, a prominent The Instruments.-The Barometer measures the pressure of the atmosphere. That made of quicksilver is the more accurate but the more sluggish. The theory is, that on the sea level, at a temperature of 60° Fahrenheit, the ordinary pressure of the atmosphere above that spot will balance a column of mercury about thirty inches high. The other type of barometer in common use is the aneroid, in which the principle adopted is the extreme sensibility to aerial pressure of a metal-surrounded Vacuum, and this sensibility, by means of delicate machinery, communicates In judging by the barometer, it is more important to note falling or rising than actual height. When the instrument was first introduced, too much attention was paid to the one point of height. Barometer-makers of the If we watch carefully the rise and fall of the barometer, we soon see that position. --- THE WEATHER AT SEA. 117 lines : , , and contracts with cold ; and which is subject to the laws of as with all weather signs the more gradual the change the more lasting the effect :- “Long foretold, long last ; short notice, soon past.” The adage, “First rise after low, indicates a stronger blow," is one of special applicability where, as in the English Channel, the cyclonic nature of the gales brings a strong southerly wind and low barometer, to be followed presently by a higher barometer but stronger wind from more northerly directions. The general idea is fairly conveyed in the popular but illogical • At sea, with low and falling glass, soundly sleeps a callous ass; Only while its high and rising, timely rests a careful wise one.” The Thermometer measures the temperature and is familiar to all. There is, however, far less general familiarity with that valuable rain foreteller, the Hygrometer. Two thermometers, that run well together, are placed side by side. The bulb of one is left exposed; the bulb of the other is encased in linen, which is connected by lamp-wick or a piece of common worsted to a vessel full of water, and thus kept perpetually moist by capillary attraction. This moist cover is subject to constant evaporation, and its thermometer usually marks in consequence a lower temperature than that recorded by the dry bulb. But evaporation is active or the reverse in accordance with the amount of moisture in the air. Thus, in proportion as the evaporation of the water on the linen is rapid or slow, so is the capacity of the air to take in water greater or less. If the evaporation be sluggish, that is proof that the air is saturated with moisture. But as the evaporation is fast or slow, so will the “wet-bulb" thermometer fall or rise, and so differ from the other thermometer. Thus, the nearer the two thermometers “read” to each other, the greater the prospect of rain : and the further they are apart the less the likelihood. If they differ as much as 5° or 6°, even though clouds look never so threatening, no rain will fall. At sea, the meteorologist always enjoys an uninterrupted view of the air envelope of the earth. It is an envelope made of and the sea. may as an with heat be regarded which expands gas, 118 Line from the colder regions, forms, through the motion of the earth, the and cause motion which may It is envelope. as well as in the waves and eddies in causes cause the exert an bations may be satisfactorily and carefully explained on this theory of eddies and waves in our atmosphere. and westerly winds is crossed, and the S.E. trades entered. of Good Hope the steamer finds herself again in westerly breezes. therefore to rise, while the air from the poles continually pressing towards the THE WEATHER AT SEA. gravity. As it expands, so it becomes lighter, and therefore hot air is, bulk for bulk, lighter than cold air. The air itself as a body is affected not only by those attractions of gravity which belong to this earth make the difference between light and heavy, but also by the laws of planetary tides in the air, water. this class of which make this air- And while heat and the motion of the earth that apparent motion of the air which we call wind, these other outside in- Auences have much to do with the local perturbations which give to weather its endless variety. Recently, indeed, an elaborate argument has been pub- lished to the effect that the planets and other bodies periodically approaching earth have, for a period of 1,700 years, been in such positions as to active influence on the air surrounding the earth ; but that in a few years' time, these planetary influences will have entered on paths that they are preordained to run for something like 1,200 years, which will pre- vent their having anything like so powerful an effect on the earth's atmosphere. We are told we may confidently look forward to a long period of steady However this may be, it is certain that local pertur- Wind.—The general theory of the wind depends on two factors, heat The air near the earth's equator, being heated and becoming lighter gives occasion for a perennial inrush of heavier air But all the while the world goes ſound, and we find what we call easterly winds as we are driven in the equatorial regions against an atmosphere at the rate of about 900 miles per hour. If we take an Orient steamer to Australia, we start in a latitude where westerly winds prevail. on to the south, we pass through a belt of variable winds into a fine N.E. trade wind, blowing at first from the north and gradually veering the eastward as we approach the equator; here another belt of calms Off the Cape The heat of the equatorial districts causes the air there to become light and winds and weather. and the earth's motion. from colder regions. Steering to . 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Palaur Pondichery Kullore Coromandel Mahe Calicut 10 Ponany _Trichole 10 Dindigut Comore Peyuputum T'Talro Str. Palks Bammad Janicov Малтан» Trincomale Quilona Anjenrol Triyanderumpany laipentung kudum INDIA. Kalay Tundry C.Comorid Chilaw Spidula Scale of Statute Mhles. 300 200 Columbok Villa Dou Maden padroulle 80 85 70 Long E.of Greenwich 75 一 ​ THE WEATHER AT SEA. 119 winds from the north-east or south-east, known as the N.E. and S.E. trades. On the other hand, the air rising from the equator, where it has acquired the velocity of the earth's surface in that region, moves towards the poles, and, descending to the sea, becomes the westerly wind of the temperate zones. When the air drawn in the northern hemisphere southward towards the equator meets the air carried northward from the southern hemisphere toward the same place, these two horizontal currents clash, counterbalance each other, lose their motion, and cause the calms, squalls, and variable winds known as the equatorial doldrums. Similarly, the hot air that rises from the equator, in descending to the surface of the earth, between the latitudes of 30° and 40°, as a southerly or northerly wind, meets and checks the motion of the cold air, rushing from north or south poles towards the equator, and thus forms, in both hemispheres, belts of calm and variable winds, known as the Calms of Cancer in the northern, and Calms of Capricorn in the southern. Such is the general idea of the motion of our atmosphere ; but there are endless local perturbations, the most marked being the “ monsoons” or season winds of the Indian Ocean. The alteration in the temperature of the surface of the earth affects the atmosphere in a considerable manner. The sandy plain becomes more readily heated than the wooded hillside. Water is less subject to sudden changes of temperature than land, but at sea there are distinct currents of cold and hot water. The Gulf Stream of the North Atlantic, or the Agulhas Stream off the coast of South Africa, bring great masses of water, warmed in the tropics, into the colder polar seas. The land and sea breezes of the tropics arise from the difference in receptivity of heat between land and water. The air is not only set in motion by these causes, but is itself changed in character. Monsoons.—The wind systems of the Indian Ocean are much more complicated than those of either the Atlantic or Pacific. In the Indian Ocean, from the shores of Asia to the parallel of 10°, in place of the north- east and south-east trades, with the intervening belt of calms which prevail in these latitudes in other parts of the world; periodical winds termed “monsoons" will be found, blowing from the north-east , south-west, and north-west, according to the season of the year." i See Wind and Current Chart, page 70. 120 THE WEATHER AT SEH. the south-east trade will be found. with frequent calms to the northward of 5° S., and between Sumatra and the during which the weather is uncertain and squally with frequent calms. current runs along the coast at the rate of from one and a half to two and from Zanzibar; both streams then turn to the eastward, setting right across direction. their velocity depending much on the force of wind and local circumstances. The general course of the current in the middle of the sea is about E., inclining to S.E. as it nears the western coast of India; its velocity varies frorn half a mile to two miles per hour. On the eastern coast of Africa the current in the S.W. monsoon sets from In the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and China Seas; and as far south as the equator, a pleasant breeze like a trade wind, from the north-east and north, prevails from November to March. This is known as the “north- east monsoon,” and brings fair weather. This monsoon blows with greatest force in the China Sea. From the equator to the parallel of 10° S., between the same months, the prevailing wind is from the north-west, generally light and uncertain, accom- panied with squalls, heavy rain, and chequered by periods of calm. This is termed the north-west, or middle monsoon. To the southward of lat. 10° S., Between May and September in the same regions an entire change takes place, the winds now blowing fiercely from the south-west with rain and gales. In June and July it is a continuous storm in the Arabian Sea and This is called the south-west monsoon, and is the bad The north-west wind, south of the equator is replaced by the south-east trade, which extends nearly to the line, but falls light of Mauritius. April and October are the months of change The Currents of the Indian Ocean run generally with the monsoons. In the N.E. monsoon the current in the Arabian Sea runs to the southward along the Malabar coast, and then sets to the south-westward, its velocity on the force of the wind. On reaching the African shore, this a half miles an hour, meeting, in about latitude 40 S., the northerly streams the Indian Ocean between the equator and the parallel of 7° S. There is a general set of from one to two miles an hour to S.W. along the S.E. coast of Arabia, and into the Gulf of Aden. In the S.W. monsoon the currents in the Arabian Sea are regular in Bay of Bengal. season of the year. meridian depending THE WEATHER AT SEA. 121 S.W. between the meridian of 80° E., and Constant S.E. TRADE.-Cyclones from December to Zanzibar along the coast to the N.N.E. at a velocity of two to four miles per hour, passes through the channel between Sokótra and the N.E. point of Africa at a rate of one and a half to two miles per hour, pursuing a course northerly and easterly, until it impinges on the Arabian coast about Ras Kosair, whence it takes a north-easterly course along that coast to Rás-al-Hadd, at a velocity of a half to one and a half miles per hour. The following table gives a comprehensive view of the course and nature of the monsoons in the several regions of the Indian Ocean :- Arabian Sea. Bay of Bengal. China Sea. November to March. November to March. October to April. N.E. Monsoox. N.E. MONSOON. N.E. MONSOON. Moderate and Fine. Moderate and Fine. Blows fresh in Nov., Dec., and Jan. May to September. May to September. May to September. S.W. MONSOON. S.W. MONSOON. S.W. MONSOON. Blowing fiercely, with bad Blowing fresh with bad Moderate, with rain, weather in June and weather in June and strongest in June, July, July ; moderating in July ; moderating in and August August. August. Cyclones in April and May, and from October to Typhoons from July July to December. November. East Coast of Africa and the Mozambique Channel. December to March. May to November. NORTHERLY WINDS. SOUTHERLY WINDS. Between the Equator and the Parallel of 10° s. November to March. May to September. N.W., or MIDDLE MONSOON. S.E, TRADE. Light, with squalls, rains, and frequent Light, with frequent calms northward calms. From the Seychelles to the African Coast the N.E. Monsoon prevails. Coast of Sumatra, Between the Parallels of 10° and 27° 8. April. 122 THE WEATHER AT SEA. diameter. are termed “Isobars." con- siderable pace over the earth's surface. Office in London has been able to issue storm warnings, about 80 per cent. of which have proved correct. West Indian hurricane, the cyclone of the Indian Seas, or the Chinese turning round and rolling forward at the same time. The average rate of miles in the twenty-four hours. They travel westward at first, then curve round towards the poles of the hemisphere they may be crossing, finally Cyclones.-When in motion the air, like water, is liable to eddies and waves. These eddies vary greatly in size, from one or two to hundreds of miles in Such eddies of air will be funnel-shaped, or shorter in the middle than at the sides; consequently in the centre the barometer will be lowest, and it will gradually rise in concentric rings as the edge of the eddy is approached, and as the column of air above becomes higher. These concentric circles A line drawn from centre to circumference, cutting these successive isobars at right angles is termed the “gradient.” It will be obvious that the steeper the gradient the more violent the eddy. Caution, therefore, will always be requisite on the occasion of any sudden change of pressure, whether it be in the direction of increase or decrease. These eddies not only revolve in themselves, but also proceed at a . It is by being warned of their approach and being well aware of their character that the Meteorological It is not many years since were regarded as sudden and capricious outbreaks of nature. are known and understood as merely violent exemplifications The sailor can now always remember that, standing with his back to the wind, the lowest barometer (or, in other words, the centre of the eddy) will on his left hand in north latitudes and on his right hand in But the theory is of most direct importance to the seaman when in those regions which record tells us are peculiarly liable to abnormally violent cyclonic disturbances. These are the tropical zones, where the forces both of the earth's rotation and the sun's heat are most effective. These storms occur generally in the hot seasons when the seas in which they prevail come under the sun. They may be described as gales of great violence, the progressive movement of their centres is usually between 200 and 300 the typhoon, Now they of known laws. always be south latitudes. . THE WEATHER AT SEA. 123 moving to the north-east in north latitudes and to the south-east in south latitudes. The captain will know that the centre of the storm is about ten points of the compass to his right, as he stands facing the wind in the beginning of the storm, in the northern latitudes; and ten points to the left if in southern latitudes. But he has further to find out on which side of the storm's path the vessel lies. This important point is to be discovered by carefully watching the way the wind changes or veers. Thus when north of the equator the wind will change round the compass in the same direction as the hands of a watch move, if the centre of the cyclone be passing to the right hand of an observer who is facing the direction from whence the storm is coming. The wind will change contrary to the movement of the hands of a watch, if the centre be passing the same observer's left hand. In the southern hemisphere these conditions are reversed. In observing winds, it is usual to give the true and not the magnetic Jirection. The strength, or technically, the force of the wind is estimated at sea by an arbitrary scale, ranging from o to 12; figures which are taken to represent all forces of wind from a dead calm = o, a moderate breeze = 4, a heavy gale = 8, and violent hurricane = 12. No 9, is the lowest figure which, according to the Board of Trade regulations, can be pleaded by captains “ stress of weather." It is that strength of wind in which a full-rigged ship would just carry her lower or close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. Squalls.—Squalls are seen at sea in all their native simplicity. An acquaintance with them and their doings formed at sea is of much value ashore, for it is in squalls that showers usually fall. The ordinary squall clouds are heavy and black, and in the form of an arch. The quantity of wind in a squall will be great in proportion as there is rapid rise of cloud, troubled look, and sudden change. A steady advance and quiet appearance indicate heavy rain rather than strong wind. The probable force of the squall is less the inore you can see through the arch. as There is much truth in the adage 3 «« When the rain before the wind, hallyards, sheets and When the wind before ihe rain, soon you may make braces mind; ail again." 124 THE WEATHER AT SEA. classes. It is overcast. clouds. vided they disperse during the morning. outline, specially if it appear during the heat of the day, is a sure sign of on the horizon it is certain evidence of a calm in that quarter. Change in the weather is heralded by clouds. are pioneered by wisps and curls, which gradually increase—the sky becomes mottled and then murky-and, as the gallant French have it,- they appear the stronger will be the coming breeze, thick in their centres, and thin in the edges and when scud begins to fly they take very defined outlines. Scud driving in a direction different from Clouds. It is well that there is water in the air, otherwise its invisi- bility would deprive the practical meteorologist of those invaluable weather signals; clouds and colours. Clouds are masses of visible vapour floating in the atmosphere, and thus serve to show the movements in the atmosphere. Clouds have been divided for purposes of general registration into four main “Cumulus” implies large rounded masses; “ Cirrus" is applied to small irregular wisps or patches; “Stratus” to layers of cloudfat and monotonous; “Nimbus" to clouds from which rain is actually falling usual in meteorological registers to give the amount of cloud on the sky by a scale in which o represents a clear sky, and 10, one completely Fine weather is foretold and accompanied by soft and indefinite-shaped Misty clouds forming on mountain tops foretell fine weather, pro- Heavy cumulus, of well-defined Strong winds and gales 'Temps pommelée et femme fardée Ne sont pas de longue durée." It will be observed that long lines of cirrus, if they lie east and west foretell fine weather: if north and south rain will follow within twenty- Wind makes the clouds the tell-tales of its strength. They come lower down and put on ragged hard forms; and the more “greasy” and troubled When they become off the gale is about to commence. Rain is to be expected if clouds become watery in appearance or if of the clouds is a sure precursor of rain. When heavy cumulus four hours. that THE WEATHER AT SEA. 125 Some have simply set it down as an optical effect of matter in the air-of Others have suggested that we have a ring like Saturn, and that this light is all we see of its faint presence, It can be watched erits close observation appears, and increases, and settles down with a hazy horizon rain is seen to follow. A dark bank of cloud with white clouds on it marks heavy rain, and the breaking off from the mass of such detached clouds is evidence that much rain will fall. The Colours of the sky, caused chiefly by the moisture in the air, are sure indicators of weather. Speaking generally, delicate quiet tints and colours in the sky indicate fine weather, whereas strong or unsual hues indicate wind and rain. The chief effects of colour are at sunrise and sunset. At other times the blue will be dull and cold for stormy weather, and bright and warm for fine weather. At sunrise a grey sky or low dawn indicates fine weather, but wind and rain are seen to follow on a red sky or high dawn. At sunset a rosy sky in the west foretells fine weather. But any orange or bright yellow or coppery colours foretell wind ; and dark Indian red and sickly greens and blues foretell much rain. If ever the rose colour extend to the east gales are to be looked for. Other phenomena.-At sea are frequently to be witnessed to perfection two phenomena of much interest, the Aurora and the Zodiacal Light. The tormer the passenger should carefully record, especially in regard to its movement. The Zodiacal light, that well-known illumination of the heavens, shaped like a half lozenge on end, has given rise to endless controversy as to its origin or cause. Some have supposed it to be an excrescence of the sun itself, or a nebulous ring surrounding it. Others consider it has an immediate connection with the earth itself. It is at all times difficult to see and observe, and it has what in the present state of knowledge must be termed capricious qualities. There are variations in the strength of its light; also in its length, position, and form. The cones or lozenges show a half-yearly period of greatest elongation. It participates in the daily move- ment of the earth, and it is visible from the most opposite parts of the earth. It inclines along the Ecliptic. It is outside our immediate atmosphere. in the Tropics than in high latitudes; and fine dust or gas. better whenever visible. PART III. CHAPTER X.-THE MOTHER COUNTRY. We may begin our account of the principal places visited by the ships of the Orient Line with a few words about our mother country. If this book was intended only for Australians, it might be necessary to point out the advantages of a visit to England; but even Australians hardly require to be reminded of them. So far, it has been acknowledged very widely. “Rich Australians" are becoming known in Europe as well as "rich Americans.” The effect of travel on the mind as well as on the body is recognised as wholesome. True, sometimes what is wholesome is not very pleasant; and an Australian does not always like to be told, as he sails into the Bay of Naples, for example, that the city before him is larger and more populous than all the capital cities in Australia put together. If however he is determined to persevere in what, with reference to such a country as Australia, it seems absurd to call “insular pride, he may well reply that in no town of his native land is the annual death- rate so high, or the poverty of the people so great. So too as he nears the end of his voyage, and is taunted with the verdure and fertility of the English soil, he may well reply that millions of Australian cattle and sheep are annually sent to feed the people of this fertile country. It is better to avoid these comparisons in our conversations, however we may feel them in our minds, and let the Australian who visits England for the first time awake gradually to the know- ledge of what may be disagreeable, while he is impressed from the first by the hearty welcome he receives in the land of his forefathers. In this chapter, and those which immediately follow it, an attempt is made to interest the reader in what, for want of a better word, is called among us * topography.” Where a country is newly settled, and has, so far, figured but little in history, topography includes geography, geology, and zoology, but little more. In Europe, on the other hand, it comprises all these sciences, and many besides. We want to see where great events have taken place, plains 128 THE MOTHER COUNTRY. and works of one kind and another become more frequent, and to the left away the flat Plumstead Marshes, chiefly known as the locality for every kind of gunnery experiment. On the right hand will next be noticed the opposite side of the river to these docks Woolwich is seen with its great arsenal. The dockyard, with its building-sheds, is now practically deserted. Thames, occupy an area which can only be measured in miles. On the right where fierce battles have been fought, cities that have sustained long sieges, houses where mighty men were born, and to visit the famous galleries and museums and libraries, where works of art, and relics and records, older perhaps by thousands of years than the civilisation of our own country, are to be seen. Such sights open the mind. The intelligent traveller who has used his eyes abroad, goes home wiser and better. He has seen much that he could admire-much too, it is to be feared, that must serve to warn him; but a day in one of the capital cities of Europe has taught him more, not only in art, history, and politics, but in social science, than he could learn in years of reading at home. Mere geographical facts put into words will give him but little idea what the cradle of his race is like. When he has seen it, he goes back impressed with the knowledge of what that race has done and can do, and with the greater determination to uphold in another hemisphere the credit it has won. There is no need to dwell any further on the advantages of a visit to the mother country. Her history is cherished by every Australian colonist as his own, and her islands are loved by many who never saw them. London, her capital, is the capital of the world. The Australian who would receive the fairest impression of London cannot do better than sail up the Thames, say by one of the regular Gravesend steamers. A more complete idea of the magnitude of the great City and its trade is thus afforded than any other method of approach can give. London viâ the Thames.-On leaving Gravesend there is little of immediate interest along the distant banks until Greenhithe and Erith are passed on the left, and Purfleet, with its peculiar chalk cliffs and great powde magazine, is passed on the right hand. After this, however, manufactories stretch the entrance to the Albert Docks where the vessels of the Orient Line lie. On Immediately after passing Woolwich, away inland on the right, is seen the beginning of a forest of masts, which mark the presence of the vast docks and shipping of the Port of London. These docks, on both sides of the THE MOTHER COUNTRY. 129 hand is presently passed the historic Blackwall, where, in the old sailing-ship days, so many a parting and arrival has taken place. Here is the entrance to the East India Docks. A sharp bend to the south carries us up Blackwall Reach to Greenwich, and when Greenwich appears on the left we may be said to be in London, for Greenwich, although five miles from Charing Cross, is now joined to it by a continuous street. The first important public building that meets our eyes is Greenwich Hospital, once a royal palace, now the Royal Naval College. It is a larger building than any palace in England except Windsor Castle, the front towards the river being 290 yards long, and the square in the centre, of which we get a passing sight through a vista of coupled pillars, 190 yards wide. The Hospital, a monument of the virtues of Mary II., was established by her husband, William III., and on the forfeiture of the adherents of the Old Pretender, the estates of the Earl of Derwentwater were assigned for its maintenance. It was opened in 1705 to admit 100 seamen. During Nelson's victories, as many as 2,700 seamen, many of them maimed, were supported here. In 1869 the Hospital was abolished, pensions being preferred by most sailors. The buildings bear the mark of many minds and many hands, but the whole design, one of the most successful for picturesqueness and stateliness combined, is to be attributed to the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. Before Greenwich is out of sight, it may be worth while to recall the fact that Henry VIII., Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth were born, and Edward VI. died, in the old palace here; and to look up, through the park, to the famous Observatory, from which longitude is reckoned as east and west of Greenwich. On the opposite shore is the Isle of Dogs, once a kind of delta, formed by the Essex river Lea, which here fell into the Thames. It is now a net- work of docks. These form the Port of London, though not a single dock is in the City itself, the nearest being St. Katharine's, made in 1828, with the moderate size of 24 acres, which at that time was thought enormous. It is now completely surpassed by many others, and especially by the new Albert Docks and their extensions, which are two and a half miles long. St. Katharine's is on the site of an ancient hospital of that name which was removed to Regent's Park, while the ground on which it stood was dug out and carried to Pimlico, some miles higher up the river, where it was employed to fill up and raise a marsh, on which streets and squares, some of them how most fashionable, were built. 2 K --- THE MOTHER COUNTRY. From this point we have one of the most interesting views in England, 130 are called the Tower Subway, which was constructed by Mr. Barlow in less There few of us who have not read with interest the memoirs written in his diary by John Evelyn, in the reign of Charles II. As, about one mile from Greenwich, we pass Deptford we are reminded of him, for he lived at Sayes Court, where we still see, among masts and chimneys, a few green trees. They mark the site of a public garden and museum given to the place by the present representative of the Evelyn family. It was here that Peter the Great lived for three months when he was studying shipbuilding in the adjoining dockyard. Many are the complaints made by Evelyn at the ill-treatment his gardens received from the Czar and his half-civilised servants. Among the Treasury Minutes there is one recording the payment to him of £162 7s., in recompense for the damage done to his house, goods, and gardens at Deptford, “by his Csarizes Majestie and his retinue.” A little beyond Deptford we pass Millwall with its docks on the right, and the western entrances to the enormous West India Docks, which cover 295 acres. From the time we passed the Albert Docks, we have in fact, been moving along parallel with an almost continuous line of dock walls. At Shadwell we come to the London Docks, of about 120 acres Immediately opposite is Rotherhithe, or as it is often pronounced Redriff, a place which looks unsavoury enough now, but which was a fashionable watering-place in the reign of Henry IV., who lived here for four months in 1412, for the sake of the fine air. Here are now the Commercial and Surrey Docks, covering together about 350 acres. We are now over the Thames Tunnel, an undertaking which forty years ago was looked upon as one of the wonders of the world. It cost half a million sterling, and was eighteen years in course of construction, owing to the difficulties encountered by the engineer, Brunel. At one time the works were abandoned, but eventually the tunnel was completed, and long struggled under a load of debt. A bazaar was held in it at first, railway runs through it now. Its place, for foot passengers, has been supplied by what is than a year for about £16,000. The tunnel connects Wapping with Rotherhithe, though Wapping has changed its name, and is now generally called St. George's-in-the-East. But Englishmen will never forget the song on of “Wapping Old Stairs.” or perhaps, to an Englishman, in Europe. The group of buildings to the THE MOTHER COUNTRY. 131 error. right looks familiar, though we may never have seen it before. For a moment we do not realise that these turrets and vanes, that large staring white house with small windows, the long and embattled wall and terrace by the riverside, with the quaint arched gateways, are the Tower of London. And a little further on, rising more than four hundred feet from the river's level, above a perfect forest of houses and steeples great and small, is the scarcely less familiar form of the vast dome of St. Paul's. Before us is London Bridge. We are in London. London.-Rightly to understand London, we must remember that it con- sists of a small central “ City,” and of suburbs which make it, taken alto- gether, the largest and most populous town in the world. It is usual to speak of it as the Metropolis, or the Metropolitan Area, but, except that it may now be said to have been authorised by frequent use in Acts of Parliament, this is an ecclesiastical term, and properly belongs, not to London, but to Canterbury. So, too, it is common, in enumerating the English counties, to say that London is in Middlesex. This again is an London is not and never was in Middlesex. London was where it is, a Roman city, before Middlesex existed. A great part of the widely spread- ing suburbs are in the county of Middlesex, but not the City of London, which has never been included in any county, although for a time it belonged to Essex, one of the kingdoms of the so-called Heptarchy. The eastern boundary between Middlesex and London passes through the part we have just passed ; the outer gate of the Tower is in the City, but the White Tower, and all east of it are in the county. The city is surrounded by other cities or boroughs. To the east are the “ Tower Hamlets," comprising the ancient parish of Stepney. To the west is the city of Westminster, which is five times larger and more populous than the city of London. To the north are Finsbury and Hackney ; to the north-west is the borough of St. Marylebone ; to the south-west is Chelsea, which includes Kensington. All these return members to Parliament, as do Greenwich, Southwark, and Lambeth. The population is so scattered at the edges of the great area that it is not possible to define exactly what we are to call London and what not, but we may safely assert that fully four millions of people live within twelve miles of London Bridge. Of this enormous number, about 50,000 only in- habit the City, and about five times that number are occupied in it daily 는 ​K 2 132 THE MOTHER COUNTRY. The trade with the Kings' foreign possessions was immense; and the government of the city, which Richard I. intrusted to a mayor, was carried on in such a way as to foster commerce, powerful, that she obtained a special clause in Magna Charta, and her liberties were the model on which the new constitution of England was moulded. The city was much oppressed by Henry III. In the reign of Edward I., the office of alderman became elective, and the still subsisting division into wards was made. A little later the old semi-religious trade guilds were superseded by companies which still exist, every freeman of the city being enrolled in thcir ranks. At first they regulated trade, each in its own department; and tlie with business. There are 25,000 houses in the City, and the rateable value is three millions and a half sterling. Over London Bridge alone not fewer than 150,000 persons pass every day, and 20,000 vehicles of all kinds. Of the ring of parliamentary boroughs enumerated above, Finsbury is the most populous, as it contains more than half a million of inhabitants, and even Greenwich has more than two hundred thousand. In addition to the nine boroughs, more than sixty district villages have been absorbed by London and its suburbs, and the streets, if laid end to end, would reach from London to Naples and back again. London, to judge by its name, which is a relic of the language of the ancient Britons, and means “the fort of the waters," was in existence when the Romans came. They built a bridge over the Thames, and made a strong castle at either end of it. A vast ring of suburbs grew up about these forts, and after they had been repeatedly plundered and burnt in various rebellions and wars, Constantine, or one of his immediate successors, built a wall round them. The old “pretorium” had stood close to where Cannon Street Terminus stands now : and we must suppose that it continued to be the head quarters of the Roman soldiers. But when they were withdrawn, the Britons could not defend London, and it is believed that for a long time the city lay empty, and desolate. King Alfred saw its value as a defence against the Danes, and rebuilt the broken wall. William the Conqueror burnt Southwark, but approached London cautiously. He was at Berkhampstead, a few miles to the northward, when a deputation of the citizens came out and offered him the crown. return gave them a charter confirming to them the old English liberties, of which so little remained to the conquered Saxons in other parts of England, Under his successors London flourished. secure liberty and maintain order. By the time of King John, London was William in THE MOTHER COUNTRY. 133 Goldsmiths and some other companies still discharge functions of the kind. The majority, however, are only engaged in the distribution of charitable and other funds, and in supporting schools. In the Wars of the Roses, the city took the Yorkist side, and contributed largely to the ultimate success of Edward IV. Henry VII. was unpopular with the citizens, from whom on various pretexts he obtained vast sums of money. Henry VIII. was always liked in London, and his suppression of the religious houses was highly approved of by the people who, especially within the walls, had many causes of complaint against the monks and friars. The persecution of the reformers under Queen Mary was particularly ruthless in London, and the fires of Smithfield turned the people more and more against the old religion, so that under Elizabeth, who was always very popular in the city, they went into an opposite extreme, and by the end of the reign of James I., the majority were puritans. After the execution of Charles I., whose fall is in great part attributable to his illegal oppression of the citizens, a reaction set in, and the interference of Cromwell and the Long Parliament in city affairs was so much resented that, at the restoration of Charles II., London was completely loyal. Charles and his successor James II found their tyrannical schemes much impeded by the civic privileges, and London was for a time deprived of its charter. The advent of William III. was therefore joyfully hailed, and in his reign, and that of Anne, the wealth of, the merchants increased rapidly, the foundation of the Bank of England in 1694 being one of the greatest commercial events in London History. The city from the time of the Great Fire in 1666 diminished in population, though it increased in wealth; and in the reign of George II., even the old walls and gates disappeared. The suburbs had spread in all directions, and had become greater by far than the city itself. As far back as the reign of Henry I., the citizens obtained the royal rights in the county of Middlesex from the crown; and very soon houses and monasteries began to spring up outside the walls. In the reign of Henry III. the Strand formed a continuous street towards Westminster, where the abbey was rebuilt by the King with great magnificence. Henry endeavoured to curtail the privileges of the citizens in Middlesex in favour of the abbot, but only alienated their affections, and they soon succeeded in obtaining from him an acknowledgment of their ancient rights. Holborn on the west, and Stepney on the east became thickly inhabited by the end of the reign of Edward III., and Westminster was rapidly increasing, especially when the law courts were permanently fixed in the King's palace. 134 THE 11 OTHER COUNTRY fort which William the Conqueror built to overawe, and at the same time to many of the personages who figure in our history. Westminster Abbey will delay him longest, and cannot be exhausted in a day, Richard Il. built Westminster Hall, one of the first great events in which was the King's formal deposition and the accession of Henry IV. At the dissolution Westminster Abbey became a deanery, and the dean still occupies the abbot's place. Meanwhile, the suburbs have spread in all directions, and the city of London itself has become a mere place of business, with but few inhabitants, the houses consisting for the most part of magnificent offices, often situated in narrow lanes and courts, which still bear witness to the crowded state of old London. The Great Fire which consumed the city in the reign of Charles II. had a remarkable effect on its healthiness. The plague, which had been almost constantly raging in some form or other, and was especially severe the year before the fire, now ceased wholly. We still see the effects of the fire in the almost complete absence of the old-fashioned Gothic churches, which are so common in other parts of England. But London justly prides herself on the churches built by Sir Christopher Wren, whose towers and spires form such beautiful features when seen from the river, the magnificent dome of St. Paul's standing out among them as the central and principal object of the view. Among the public buildings of the city, the Guildhall, in which the citizens have assembled for more than six centuries; the Royal Exchange, where the business of half the world is transacted; the Bank of England, the Mansion House, the General Post Office, and, not far from it, the old prison of Newgate, should be seen by the visitor ; who will also be interested by St. Giles's Church, Cripplegate, where John Milton is buried, and where a bastion of the ancient wall is still standing; by Crosby Hall in Bishopsgate Street, where Richard III. resided for a time, and which Shakespeare mentions in several places ; by St. Paul's, where Nelson, Wellington, Wren, Turner the painter, and other great men are buried; but above all, by the Tower of London, the great Norman defend the city, and which became in after years alternately the palace and the prison of so many English kings and queens, and the death-scene of so Beyond the city limits the visitor will find even more that is interesting. or in many days. In the royal chapel of Edward the Confessor, where so many Kings are buried in the little mound of holy earth which Henry III. imported from Palestine ; in Henry the Seventh's Chapel, with its wonderfully carved 134 wy Rd THE TOWER OF LONDON. ܕܫ ܝܗ ܟܩ ܝܐ THE MOTHER COUNTRY. 135 roof, and the tombs of the founder, of “ Bloody Mary” and Elizabeth, and of the ill-fated Mary, queen of Scots; in the Statesman's Transept and the Poets' Corner; by the graves of Newton and Livingstone, of Dickens and Lytton, of “rare Ben Jonson,” and Geoffrey Chaucer, Clerk of the Works to the abbey, and father of English poetry, he will find it impossible to hasten his steps, even though he is not arrested at every turn by the beauty and solemnity of "the long drawn aisle and fretted vault,” and the beautiful vistas of column and arch and portal. Nor must he neglect the cloister with its green garth, where the old monks were buried, nor the library with its ancient buildings, nor the chapter room, where for centuries the English Commons were wont to assemble. But it is worth making the voyage to England to see Westminster Abbey alone for those who love ancient architecture and historical associations. For those whose interest lies more in what is modern, there is at Westminster another building to which in their minds even the abbey will yield. The old palace is gone, but already enough of association has gathered about the Houses of Parliament to render them well worth a visit even to those who do not care for splendid architecture, gorgeous decorations, fresco paintings by great artists, mosaics and stained glass. The ancient hall, with its fine oak roof, forms an appropriate vestibule to the parliamentary precincts, and now that the shabby buildings in which for many years the chief courts of law were seated have been pulled away, we are able to see the western side with its long roof and its buttresses. The new Courts of Justice are situated at Temple Bar, and stand partly within the old city boundary. The visitor whose time is limited will perhaps be contented with a view of the exterior, and will hasten on to the National Gallery, a mean-looking building on a fine site, furnished with a marvellous collection of beautiful pictures, almost all accumulated during the reign of our present gracious queen ; or to the British Museum, where ancient books, Greek sculpture, Egyptian and Assyrian monumdpts, majolica, ivories and many other objects of curiosity, or beauty will contend to detain him; or to the South Kensington Museum, where only art and not mere curiosity is admitted, and where the principal institution is flanked by the India Muscum, the National Portrait Gallery, the Museum of Natural History, and other shows, more or less interesting; or to the Albert Hall, or out to the Crystal Palacc, to hcar good music; or,—and to my mind this is the most wonderful sight of all-to the Park on a fine afternoon in the season, that is between the 1st May, and the 136 THE MOTHER COUNTRY. visit so as to see the great city in what is locally called “the season," that has not stood in Hyde Park on a fine afternoon in Mayor June, and watched the display of wealth and taste there exhibited; and every one will wish to attend a sitting of the Houses of Lords and Commons, to see the to visit the Royal Academy, and to make a pilgrimage to the tombs of St. Paul's. In the autumn you may attend cattle shows and the congresses of learned societies in the country ; but London at that time of year is “out of town," and though as full in reality as ever of people, does not offer to a end of July, to see the carriages and horses, and the gay throng of the fashion- able world, with perhaps a glimpse of the Princess of Wales, and even, as a piece of very good fortune, of the Queen herself. The stranger in London is naturally bewildered at first by its size, but when once a few geographical facts about it are mastered, it is found that there is no place easier to get out of in every direction, and thus it therefore forms one of the most convenient of possible headquarters during an English visit. We can run down to the south coast in a single hour by railway. It is not a quarter of a day's journey to Oxford, or Cambridge, or Stratford- on-Avon ; it is not half a day's journey to Portsmouth or Bristol ; it is a short day's journey to Liverpool, or a long one to Glasgow and Edinburgh. The smallness of England, the frequency of large towns, the inclosures every where, the almost complete absence, except in remote places, of wide open spaces, are the features of the country, which, even more than its antiquity, impress one most on fresh arrival from the Colonies. That from so small a mother so great an offspring should have gone forth to people the earth, and that the English language should be more widely spoken than any other, are the results of causes which began to work in this island some fourteen centuries ago, causes which some have endeavoured to classify as Truth and Liberty, but which are the ideas implanted in every English- man's mind, whether he be born in the Mother Country or in one of her Colonies. The visitor from the Antipodes finds the foggy atmosphere of London oppres- sive, except in the height of summer; but he should endeavour to time his is, during the session of Parliament. before or after, but no one can be said to know what London is like who The country visit should be made judges on the bench, to hear the great speakers and preachers of the day, the mighty men of old time who lie buried in Westminster Abbey and 138 THE MOTHER COUNTRY. for the road runs in a north-westerly direction, and may still here and there may see the blacksmith's shop where Handel conceived an immortal melody. of William Powell, and if you go to Little Stanmore, as Whitchurch is commonly called, you will not only see his grave, with a bar of the “Har- which Handel played in the very church where so many of his compositions were first heard. If Eltham reminds us of Blair Athol and his extraordi- nary price, Whitchurch should remind us of Eclipse, the fastest horse on He died and was buried in Canons Park, where his grave is still The park was broken up at the Commonwealth, and eventually divided. The central portion gives its name to one of the principal events of the sportsman's year, for Mr. Blenkiron kept his stud in the Middle Park, and here, after his death, Blair Athol, one of his horses, was sold for no less than £13,125, the highest price up to that time ever given for a racchorse. Most excursionists seem to prefer to go in a southerly direction when they take a day out of town. But there are many points of interest north, east, and west as well. If we go out towards “merry Edmonton,” along the route traversed by John Gilpin, we pass through Tottenham, and are reminded that, equally with the kingdom of Scotland, this manor was the inheritance of a family whose coheirs were Bruce and Baliol. Bruce Castle 'is a school, standing among fine old trees; and its scholars will tell you with pride that here for a time Sir Rowland Hill was master, and dated from Bruce Castle the letters and pamphlets by which at length he succeeded in convincing our rulers of the advantages of the penny stamp. Izaak Walton and William Cowper have given celebrity to the name of Edmonton, and it needs nothing mure to add an interest when we remember that in Bay Cottage Charles Lamb lived and died, and that he lies buried in Edmonton Churchyard close by. A little further west is Edgware, an ancient town on an ancient road -a road, indeed, so ancient that there are good grounds for believing it was in use before the Romans came into Britain. The Saxons named it the Watling Street, being the name they gave to the Milky Way in the heavens above, be traced all the long distance from Dover to Chester. At Edgware we The smith was parish clerk" at Whitchurch close by, and bore the record. pointed out. name оп If we turn our steps westward the objects of interest are .. most TIIE OTHER COUNTRY. 139 numerous. The oldest inhabited house in England is Fulham Palace, which the Bishops of London have had for a villa ever since there was a bishop. At Chiswick House, a little further on, two great statesmen drew their last breath, Fox and Canning; and across the river, at Putney, a greater than either, William Pitt, died in 1906, at Bowling Green House, ncar the heath. At Richmond, all but a fragment of the palace is gone, where Henry VII. died, and where Henry VIII. entertained the Emperor Charles V.; but the park, the making of which was one of the most unpopular acts of the un- fortunate Charles I., remains the joy of all lovers of English scenery. But to any one who has read history intelligently and who is content with the green lawns and old trees, with shady lanes and primrose banks, with little churches and quaint epitaphs, with stately red-brick houses and arching avenues, there is no part of England in which they more abound than within ten miles of London. A very short way off is Hampton Court, with its hall and its pictures; our sovereign's stately residence at Windsor, the most dignified palace in Europe ; the ancient church at St. Alban's, one of the longest single buildings in the world; and other famous places ;-but there is a charm about the more obscure and less visited spots, which is wanted where crowds assemble; and not the Alps are to my mind beautiful as the ordinary English landscape, with its verdure, its antiquity of association, and its quiet homeliness. It would be impossible even to enumerate all the various objects and matters of interest which await an Australian visitor to the old country. This task I leave in other hands. Suffice it here to say that he will encounter at every turn the marks of the efforts of his race in each branch of human progress, and, recognising the source from which he has derived that civilisation and freedom, civil and religious, which he enjoys in the Greater Britain, he will learn to sympathise with his kindred “at home" under those difficulties attaching to the old society, which it is so important for the unity of the Empire that Colonists should understand. even so 140 ITALY. learning, is personally the discovery of a CHAPTER XI.-ITALY. In this chapter we propose to place before the reader a picture of the variety of interest and charm that accompanies a visit to Italy, and in the next chapter a slight sketch in detail will be given of some of the most attractive of the European towns which may easily be visited either going to or returning from Australia. How the Old World becomes a New World.—In its first and most obvious sense the phrase, “the New World” is an expression which indicates the continents that have been discovered and inhabited by Europeans since the eventful year of the discovery of America by Columbus. In this sense the New World comprises the continents of America, and the more recently settled continent of Australia. But to a home-staying Englishman, and still more, I imagine, to a home-staying American or to an Australian Colonist, the first visit to the early home of European civilisation, art, commerce, and “ is within the reach of any one who can compass a journey to Italy or Greece with heart, eyes, and mind open to feel, see, and understand some portion of what those marvellous countries can show us, their place in history in relation to ourselves, their unrivalled achievements in art, their commercial greatness, the daring of their inhabitants as mariners and discoverers, and last but not least, to the fact that to them we owe the revival of learning which was the great work of the Renaissance, and has resulted in saving to the whole world all that it now possesses of ancient literature and philosophy. I will not pretend in these short pages to be able to speak of Greece, be- cause to me Greece is still a land of promise, and I wish to speak very humbly of Italy, as one who knows only just enough to discern the vastness of his own ignorance. Variety of Interest in Italy.—I speak purposely of our being able to feel , and understand some fraction only of the marvels of what I have called the New World; for Italy affords the favourite pasture ground for specialists see, Rucks us EUROPE. W.Gr. 0° E. Gr. 20 20 4-0° 60 60 W v wanitare Faröe Christi Drina Tind M BY Bothnia Pern Shetlands Rochall Floaterinbu Skalda. Hebrides Orkney Bergen Helsing forg viacka christiania G.os Maland © Vologda La doga S.Petersburg Peipus. fNorgprod Stavanger The Naze holm Kazan ddberdeen Ufa Volga The Skaw Gothland (Göteborg Pskor Nijni Novgorod Firth at Forth Edinburgh Riga DENTALIK Copenlogo NORTH SEAT Moscow Oreborg R. Saannan Dina I LA N TIC c. 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The long line of the Cæsars, beginning with Augustus, twenty- seven years before the birth of Christ, and ending with Francis II. of Austria, who resigned the title in 1806, sets vividly before us the continuity of history, and makes us realise, as perhaps we have never done before, that we are not disjointed atoms uninfluenced by the past; we are such as we are be cause of the labours, and struggles, and failures of countless generations which have gone before us. It is impossible, even for the most unlearned, not to feel something of this inheritance which the present has received from the past, when one stands on the sites of world-famous events which have changed the whole course of history. The predominance of Italy in art needs no insisting upon; it is so obvious that the only danger is lest one should get to regard Italy less as the glorious mother-land of civilisation, commerce, art, and learning, than as a sort of huge museum to be catalogued and labelled and “done” by the weary tourist. The appreciation of the art of Italy will, to the average traveller, be intensified almost in direct proportion as he has got to know something of the people who have achieved such marvellous works. But the process of gradual enlightenment on the mazes of Italian history usually begins from the other end. The traveller, who for the first time sees Giotto's tower at Florence, and at a stone's throw distant on the one side the Baptistery with its marvellous storied gates, and on the other the matchless dome of Brunelleschi, feels that the fairy tale has come true and that he is in the land of the giants ; he longs to learn to know something of the men who achieved such supremely beautiful works and of the history of the city which bred such citizens. Almost every Italian city might be called a museum of painting, sculpture, and architecture, were it not that the art of a museum is dead, while the art of these cities is living. A bronze gate, for instance, torn from its sur- roundings, and from the uses to which its owner destined it, ticketed and labelled in a museum, is a very different object from the very same gate in its place, on the cathedral it was made for, thrown open to the throngs of people pressing in to catch a glimpse of a marriage or a funeral, and polished by the rubbing of countless shoulders passing in and out day by: 142 ITALY and relationship superadded to its beauty ? 1 to cumbent figure of a woman in the sleep of death. its perfection; its dignity, sweetness and calm are immortal; but if it has all these graces deathlessly even in a museum, with excellent policemen close by, what would it not be in Padua, where Donatello for the husband or the children of the woman it commemorates, surrounded by the fair city she lived in, with all the associations of human affection day, from year's end to year's end. Our first thought in the Baptistery at Florence is not that the font is made of this or that marble, or that the relicſs are in the style of this or that famous sculptor. It is endeared us by its human associations, by seeing the babies being christened in it now, and by knowing that this has been the christening place of every Florentine baby, from Dante and Lorenzo, to the poorest little mortal born yesterday. Italy has been the great storehouse of art for other countries ; England, France, Spain, Germany and Russia, have enriched themselves with Italian painting, Italian sculpture, Italian carvings, Italian mosaics and gems. But however much they can take from her, she remains the only place where her treasures are at their fullest and best, because here one sees them at home, in the places their makers intended them for, put to the uses origin- ally destined for them. One feels this much more strongly with regard to sculpture and architecture than with regard to paintings which are essentially movable objects and do not lose so much, though they do lose something, by being transferred from their original habitation. Flowers lose some, but not so very much, of their natural beauty, by being transferred from the garden to a bowl on the drawing-room table; but a forest tree transferred from the forest, if such a thing could be done, and fixed up artificially in the hall or conservatory of a palace, would lose nine-tenths of its beauty, even though leaf for leaf and twig for twig it remained the same tree. Those who wish to know forest trees at their best must go to the forest ; and those who wish to know Italian sculpture and architecture at their best and highest must go to Italy; models and copies will not serve except as reminders to those who have been in the home of the originals. Originals themselves torn from their home will seldom be appreciated except by those who know what their home is. There is a most exquisitely beautiful Italian sculptured tomb in the South Kensington Museum. It represents the re- Nothing can rob it of with the clatter and smell of the refreshment room tramping about, and 142 ITALY THE FORUM WITH VESUVIUS ABOVE POMPEII. 1 ITALY. 143 Archæology.—Antiquarian and archæological enthusiasm is nowhere so readily aroused as in Italy. The whole land teems with relics of the past. The soil of Italy is a mine of ancient art. The richest lodes have no doubt been long worked out, no more “dying Gauls," no more Ariadnes, or friezes of fighting Amazons will probably be discovered, but discoveries of minor im- portance are of almost daily occurrence, and the peasants, when they are digging or ploughing in such a neighbourhood as that of Tivoli, frequently turn up coins, fragments of Roman pavement, and other evidences of bygone days. Music.-Music is another of the arts in which Italy took the lead of other modern countries. The great old Italian school of music which num- bered Palestrina, Scarlatti, and Corelli among its ornaments, was the fore- runner of the German school, headed by John Sebastian Bach. Bach, who has been called the founder and father of German music, and Handel (both born 1685), derived the chief part of their musical education from the study of the Italian masters. The Commercial Greatness.- Perhaps the early achievements of Italy in commerce are less remembered now than they ought to be. Banking, book keeping, and political economy, may be said to have begun in Italy. The Florentine bankers, Bardi and Peruzzi, who lived in the time of Edward III. of England, and who lent him 1,365,000 golden forins, which he never repaid, were probably the forerunners of modern banking. The Florentine golden florins were made of 2.4-carat gold, and weighed one-eighth of an ounce, or a trifle less than the English half sovereign. The London street of bankers is fitly named Lombard Street, and its name indicates the home of the occupation that is there carried on. Double entry was invented by the Italians; and in their early chronicles we see the prototypes of modern political economy. For instance, the three Florentine chroniclers, Giovanni, Matteo, and Filippo Vallani, deal not so much in the generalities of history as in painstaking statistical accounts of the population of their native city, the number of paupers and beggars, the number engaged in all the most important trades, the daily consumption of food, the style of dress and manners of the citizens; and they also recount the economic consequences of the great plague which devastated Europe in the fourteenth century, the same plague which visited England in 1348 and was there called “the Black Death." 144 ITALY docks where they were made and repaired. In the twenty-first canto of the Medici. The family, however, appear from an early date to have abandoned magistrates and town councillors. lending money on the security of goods deposited with them, has become in these days the not very distinguished trade of pawnbroking, and in the pawnbroker's sign, the three balls (.), we still see the arms of the Medici. was, in fact, a sort of combination of Liverpool and Glasgow, for it not only was the main trading centre for ships, but it also contained the arsenal and Free Trade. It is not generally known that the Italians of Tuscany were the earliest of European Free Traders. Sallustio Bandini, a Sienese gentleman, who was born in 1677, nearly a hundred years before the publication of Adam Smith's Wealth of Nations, induced the Grand Duke of 'Tuscany to grant complete freedom to the corn trade in his dominions. Mr. Montgomery Stuart's History of Free Trade in Tuscany gives an interesting account of Bandini's life and labours. “For one hundred and twenty years," he says, “the history of Tuscany is the history of free trade.” Mr. Cobden, in 1847, speaking in Florence, said that to him “the Tuscan soil was the sacred soil of economic freedom.” The Florentines in the greatest time of their history were conspicuously a nation of shopkeepers. Nobles were expressly and jealously excluded from all share in the government. The whole city was divided into seven guilds or trade unions, called Arti, and from these the Signoria, or Government, was chosen. No man could become a magistrate who was not a member of one of the seven Arti. Dante was a member of the guild of physicians, and was prior of the city in 1300, the year in which he had the vision described in the Divine Comedy. He speaks in the first line of the Inferno of this year as “midway on the road of life," he being then thirty-five. As their name implies, the famous family of the Medici also belonged to the physicians' guild ; their patrons were the doctor-saints Cosmo and Damian, who frequently represented in their red gowns and hats in pictures painted for the doctoring for the more lucrative business of bankers and money-lenders. It is characteristic of Italian democracy that this family, who in the time of the greatness of Florence became her hereditary rulers, were at the beginning nothing more than well-to-do tradesmen, who were selected by their fellow citizens from time to time to serve the community in which they lived as One branch of their business, that of Venice was at one time the greatest emporium of the shipping It was the chief seat of commerce with the East. It are Shipping.–Venice trade of the world. ITALY. 145 1 The Book of Ser Marco Polo the Venctian (John Murray, Inferno, Dante compares one of the pits of hell with the great vessels of boiling pitch in the arsenals of Venice, and this in itself is some indication of the importance and size of the arsenal, as well as of its notoriety throughout Italy. The Venice arsenal was founded in 1104; in 1307 it was two miles in circumference, and employed 16,000 workmen. Discoverers.-As mariners and discoverers the Italians need to quote no other names than those of Christopher Columbus the Genoese, and Marco Polo the Venetian. No one needs to be reminded of the great achievement of Columbus. He has built for himself an everlasting name ;-his many disappointments, his inextinguishable belief in his mission, his final triumph, and the tragic issue of his great services, form a story that will be read as long as the world lasts. It is sufficient here to say that such a man could not have been born except from a maritime and adventurous people. The great land traveller, Marco Polo, in 1260, when a lad of fifteen, accompanied his father Nicolo and his uncle Maffeo to Cathay, and there entered the service of Kublai Khan; during his twenty-six years' residence in Cathay, Marco, as ambassador of the Khan, visited Thibet, Southern India, Southern Cochin China, and many other parts of the world, and saw those men and marvels which he afterwards described in his book of travels. Some of his routes are only known to have been followed by Europeans twice since. Marco Polo's book, written at his dictation while a prisoner at Genoa, is a model of travellers' tales for all future time. A story is told of him that on his deathbed his friends thought it was a favourable opportunity to get him to confess that he had, to say the least, exaggerated one or two points in his narrative; but Marco stoutly defended his veracity, and said that if he had erred at all it was in telling less than half the truth. It is to be noted as characteristic of Italy, that though the Polo family belonged to the Venetian nobility they were merchants and traders, and that the object of their journey- ings was in the first instance purely commercial. A very good English edition of Marco Polo's travels, with an introduction giving an account of his life and of his family, has been published by Colonel Henry Yule. The Revival of Learning.—It is impossible in this short space to do more than glance most casually at the part which Italy played in the revival of Albemarle Street). L ITALY. impossible for us to realise. Printing had only recently been invented, or at any rate only recently introduced into Europe. Mr. Symonds describes the difficulties and the importance of the task in the following passage “The text and the canon of Homer, Plato, and Aristotle had to be decided. Greek type had to be struck. Florence, Venice, Basle, and Paris groaned with printing presses. The Aldi, the Stephani, and Froben toiled by night and day. 146 learning that affected all Europe in the fifteenth century. One of the most interesting books to read on this subject is The Renaissance of Italy, by Mr. J. A. Symonds. The first volume, called The Age of the Despots, will be found especially valuable. One of the first signs of the Renaissance was the intense anxiety to discover and to preserve all that remained to the world of antique learning and art. Mr. Symonds shows us, as types of this spirit of reverence ſor and delight in the learning of the past, “ Petrarch poring over a Homer he could not understand, and Boccaccio in his maturity learning Greek in order to drink at the well-head of poetic inspiration.” George Eliot, in Romola, has left an enduring picture of the same enthusiasm for classical lore in the person of old Bardo dei Bardi, Romola's father. The smooth-tongued Tito wins the proud old man from his accustomed suspicion and reserve by his knowledge of Greek antiquities, and by the revelation that he has actually seen Athens and the Acropolis. It became a religion and an object in life to the men of the Renaissance to save every relic of classical antiquity. Mr. Symonds tells (The Age of the Despots, p. 23) a curious story of the profound sensation produced in Rome in 1485 by the discovery, on the part of some workmen, in a tomb on the Appian way, of the body of a beautiful girl, Julia, the daughter of Claudius. The art of embalming had been so successful, that the body presented all the appearance of youth and beauty. The excitement caused by the discovery was tremendous. All Rome flocked to Julia's coffin as to was extolled as exceeding any then known on earth; and the Pope, fearing that Julia would be worshipped instead of the orthodox saints of the Roman calendar, had the body secretly re-interred by night. The enthusiasm for classical antiquity was manifested in a manner more practically useful by the great work, in which Italy took the lead, of the printing of the Aldo Pio Manutio (A.D. 1447–1515), the great Italian printer, the founder of the Aldine press and the Aldine academy, preceded by a few years the great French and German printers, the Stephani and Froben. It must be remembered that these great men laboured under difficulties almost > a shrine ; her beauty classics. ITALY FORT SIANGELO. ROME. THE CAPITOL, ROME. 146 * ܗܘ ܩ CG a IM ITALY. 147 employing scores of scholars, men of supreme devotion and of mighty brain, whose work it was to ascertain the right reading of sentences, to accentuate, to punctuate, to correct for press, and to place beyond the reach of monkish hatred or of envious time that everlasting solace of humanity which exists in the classics. All subsequent achievements in the field of scholarship sink into insignificance beside the labours of these men, who needed genius, enthusiasm, and the sympathy of Europe for the accomplishment of their Titanic task. Virgil was printed in 1470. Homer in 1488. Aristotle in 1498. Plato in 1512. They then became the inalienable heritage of mankind. But what vigils, what anxious expenditure of thought, what agonies of doubt and expectation were endured by those heroes of humanising scholarship, whom we are apt to think of merely as pedants! Which of us now warms and thrills into emotion at hearing the name of Aldus Manutius, or of Henricus Stephanus, or of Johannes Froben? Yet this we surely ought to do; for to them we owe in a great measure the freedom of our spirit, our stores of intellectual enjoy- ment, our command of the past, our certainty of the future of human culture." (The Age of the Despots.) It was characteristic of the Renaissance to fall down and worship every- thing, good, bad, and indifferent, that belonged to the great past of Greece and Rome ; and it was not long before it became apparent that the passionate enthusiasm of the Renaissance for classical learning was antagonistic to religion not only to monasticism, but to Christianity itself. The religious reformers, even one so noble and far-seeing as Savonarola, most strenuously attacked the then prevalent admiration for everything that belonged to the classical ages of Greece and Rome. He urged his disciples to destroy by fire all that savoured of worldliness and irreligion. Under this influence many invaluable manuscripts were consumed in the bonfires of the “vanities” that were made in the public squares of the cities of Italy. It thus really became a life and death struggle, between the monkish spirit on the one hand and the modern spirit on the other, what should be saved and made immortal by the printing-press. The Participation of Women.—The revival of learning in Italy was not confined to men; women were also influenced by the keen desire of know- ledge, and the names of Vittoria Colonna, the friend of Michael Angelo, Tullia D'Aragona, Olympia Morato, are among those of the most distinguished learned women of the Renaissance period in Italy, In many of the most L 2 148 ITALY. 1 a consented conditionally on their delivering Arnold into his hands. This they indignantly refused, and the Pope for the first time in history laid the city offices so terrified the people that a tumult ensued, and Arnold took refuge in a castle in Campania. Here, in 1155, he was taken by Frederick Barbarossa, delivered Arnold into the hands of Adrian, and in a Brescia, whom the not too enthusiastic Gibbon calls “the martyr of freedom," renowned universities of Italy women were professors; at Bologna there are still to be seen portraits of four lady professors : Maria Gaietana, of mathe- matics; Anna Manzolini, of anatomy; Betisca Gazzadine and Clotilde Tambroni, of Greek; so that in the field of the improvement of the education of women, as in so many other modern movements, Italy has been among the first to lead the way and set an example, although other countries have since gained a more leading place than she now holds. The Political and Religious Reformers. It would be an omission, in speaking of the achievements of Italy in the multiform manifestations of human ac- tivity, not to refer to her religious and political reformers. The same men not unfrequently united both characters. Arnold of Brescia, a priest, in 1140 made an attack against the corruptions of both Church and empire; he quoted the words of Christ, “My kingdom is not of this world,” as reason for separating the temporal power from the Papacy, and he “ boldly maintained that the sword and sceptre were intrusted to the civil magistrate; and that the abbots, the bishops, and the Pope himself must renounce either their their salvation." (Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire). He actually succeeded temporarily in his contention with the Popes, and for ten years he was master of Rome, the Popes being in the meantime exiles in neighbouring cities. He endeavoured to rouse in the men of Rome the ancient Roman spirit of liberty and independence; but the death of the two feeble Popes whom he had been able to jugate was followed by the election of the only Englishman who ever has been Pope. Nicholas Brakespear became Adrian IV. in 1154, and Englishmen can hardly be proud of the fact that he displayed the characteristic vigour of his nation by crushing the nascent liberties of Rome and by accomplishing the destruction of their founder . When Nicholas became Pope the Roman people asked from him a confirmation of the charter of their liberties. He of Rome under an interdict. The unaccustomed suspension of all religious the Emperor, who was on his way to be crowned by the new Pope. He , short time Arnold of state or sub- ITALY 148 RAVINE AT AMALFI. ! ITALY. 149 was burnt alive by the Pope's orders, and his ashes were thrown into the Tiber. There can be no doubt of Arnold's perfect disinterestedness and nobility of purpose. His name is still lovingly remembered by the Italian people as one of the earliest champions of their freedom. The characteristics of the movement led by Arnold of Brescia were, the demand of liberty for the people and the relinquishment by the Church of its temporal power, and in these two demands he has been followed by many of the greatest minds Italy has produced. Dante, speaking of the temporal power, which was attributed by a monkish fiction to a gift made to the Pope Silvester by the Emperor Constantine the Great at the time of his conversion to Christianity, says, in the 19th Canto of the Inferno- “Ah! Constantine, to how much ill gave birth, Not thy conversion, but that plenteous dower Which the first wealthy Father gained from thee.” And in many other passages of his great poem he shows how deep was his hatred of the usurpation by the Papacy of the temporal power. Of his love of liberty there are scarcely fewer evidences. He puts the pagan Cato into Purgatory, not into. Hell, because of his love of liberty. He who knew how “salt the savour is of others' bread, how hard the passage to descend and climb by others’ stairs,” knew the value of political as well as of personal liberty, and his attachment to the Ghibelline, or Emperor's, party, against the Guelph, or Papal, party, is perhaps best understood if we look upon it as a manifestation of his eager patriotism, which was continually seeking a means for the realisation of his hopes for the unity of Italy. The Papacy always was, and always will be, anti-patriotic. The policy of the Popes was to set one Italian city against another and to profit by their discords. As a politician, no less than as a student and a poet, Dante abhorred these discords. He defined, in his De Monarchiâ, the end of man to be his in- tellectual activity, both active and contemplative; this, he said, could only be fully attained in times of peace, and peace could only be secured through establishing as a living reality the sway of the Emperor throughout Christendom. The dream of Italian unity, which is even now in process of receiving its full realisation, has ever floated before the imagination of the greatest Italians. as a means to this end that Dante threw in his lot with the Ghibelline party, and this explains not only why devout a Catholic It was SO 150 ITALY. Taarifa himself to the vague gencralities characteristic of the usual style of sermons, but he called men and things by their right names, and denounced the vices appointed Prior of St. Mark's, he refused the large gifts of money with which Lorenzo dei Medici sought to purchase his alliance. Later in his career he refused to be bought by the offer of the cardinal's hat from Alexander VI. was the fiercest denouncer of the temporal power, but also why, in the Inferno, with a rather grotesque vehemence, he places Brutus and Cassius (the first traitors to the Empire), with Judas Iscariot, the betrayer of Christ, not only into the lowest pit of hell, but into the very jaws of Lucifer himself. The most remarkable of all the group of priest-patriots of Italy was Savonarola (1452-1498), who, like Arnold of Brescia, paid with his life for his temerity in opposing the abuses of the Papacy. He was burnt to death in Florence by the order of the Pope Alexander the Sixth, the infamous Roderigo Borgia, on the 23rd of May, 1498. The life of Savonarola by Professor Villari is of the greatest interest. It has been translated into English. One does not know which side of Savonarola's character is the more noble, his burning passion for liberty or his burning passion for purity of life. Being summoned to the deathbed of his enemy, Lorenzo dei Medici, the Magnificent, to confess him and give him absolution, he required of the dying man three things. The first was that he should place his faith in God and repent of his sins,—to this, as may be supposed, Lorenzo gave a ready assent; the second demand was that he should give back all moneys of which he had unjustly possessed himself,—after a ffuse, a slow consent was given; the third was that he should restore liberty to the people of Florence,- on hearing this, the harshest of the three demands made upon him, the dying tyrant turned his face to the wall in silence, and Savonarola left him The effect of Savonarola's preaching was miraculous ; the vast Cathedral of Florence was thronged with listeners, and as his voice echoed through the building, the only other sounds to be heard were the sobs of the men and women who had gathered to hear him. The reports of his sermons, written down at the time by one of the auditors, frequently break off thus, “ Here I was so overcome with weeping that I could not go on.” His sermons were often as much political as religious, and in either case he did not confine poisoning the life and morals of his time. When he was first unabsolved. that were ITALY. 8 10° 12 16° Srillach Geneva dence Bozona Klagenfurt Drave Rhone Y. Rosa Termine 15780Y'Blanc 15217 Dora Πινα, Drave RF Save 46 Gar Pelour Pinerolo WiFi so Denna luka 13461 Ry Piacorsa por ald- Brand бар, R Purance Voltri GENOA Reno R 6., or Quarnero Trined Digne 28 ünn 35 2 you Ravenna ss Gulf Tussia Verdog BR - 272 or Genoa Premuda fentone 38 MARSKILLE antibes MP 10 Suples Prejus Tropez Zura 1358 I? 1423 C.Carso 1100 Siena 7 S. 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Entertanova c.doda Cavallo Porto Torfes Sassari Alghero Rosana SARDINIA G. of Oristano pristane 1650 Ponza" 350 NAPLESSONS 1574 Ostunt Brindisi Gof Str. of YAO Castellamares Leobe 6283 1969 1600 6.of Saluno 1573 P. Licosi G.org 1987 789 00 Se a Soeranto Gol Policastro clolino 178633 Taranta Rossano 103 s. Pictvo S Antioco C.Teutada Scaglighi Wccarbonara is a Cagliary m 9 47 480 4433 34 29 30 IN 2ND SALOON CABINS LOWEST NUMBERS ARE UPPER BERTHS. 74 70BI 82 85 B6 . by in. ar be of US en ce en ex ne qu Co wb SCI ter be lio im 10 g 'b — VICTORIA. 215 miner is a little less than £100 a year, though it must be said, as is observed by Mr. Hayter, the eminent Victorian statistician, to whom we are greatly indebted for our figures, that this does not represent the actual earnings made in the gold industry, seeing that a very large proportion of the miners are working for wages. The discovery of alluvial gold in its ancient beds, below the volcanic rock, has had a very important effect on the fortunes of the gold industry, while the invention of the “diamond drill,” now largely used by the mining companies, has given a great impetus to their operations, enabling them to determine the courses of auriferous leads with greater certainty, and to sink shafts with greater power at reduced expense. The employment of machinery, also, for the crushing of auriferous stone and the extraction of the precious metal, has been greatly extended of late years -the value of the existing gold machinery in Victoria being estimated at nearly two millions sterling. Some of the shafts sunk in search of auriferous quartz exceed one thousand feet in depth. The deepest is that of the Magdala Company at Stawell, which is 2,409 feet below the surface. From these depths, where no gold was ever before discovered, and its existence even by men of science stoutly denied, there is now brought up stone yielding as much as ten ounces to the ton, though anything exceeding five dwts. is supposed to be worth the expense of crushing. Besides gold, Victoria is rich in other minerals, especially silver, tin, and antimony. She is almost entirely deficient however in coal and in iron, and this deficiency cannot but exercise an important effect on her fortunes in the future. It is some consolation however to the Victorian patriot to feel that already this, the chief of the gold colonies, produces more by agriculture and by grazing than by mining, her corn and wool being of more worth to her than her gold. The total value of the agricultural produce of the colony is given by Mr. Hayter as £5,893,847 as compared with £8,684,218 the value of her pastoral produce, and £3,533,658 the value from mines. The value of the colonial manufacturers in 1883 was estimated at £8,519,486. But it is a question with some economists to what extent this estimate is unfavourably affected by the fiscal system of the Colony; this is a matter upon which we do not offer an opinion. But it is worthy of remark that during the last eight years the proportion in which the manufacturing produce has increased is that in which the pastoral and mining produce has diminished ; a result which may perhaps suggest that a disturbance has been 216 VICTORIA. Grea Grea of N muni stand illim grow show whic to aske Mr. worl diffi publ been seeil Aus made with the natural course of colonial industry; the question, however, is one which the Victorians may claim to decide for themselves. Whatever is the ideal which they have fashioned for themselves there can be no doubt that Victoria has advanced in wealth and prosperity—and if perhaps less rapidly than might have been expected from her natural advantages, yet at a rate which, judged by old standards, is still surprising. Commerce and Finance. The conimerce of Victoria resembles in respect of the articles interchanged that of New South Wales. The difference in the imports and exports in the various colonies is partly natural and partly artificial, the supply of certain articles being stimulated by local laws, as well as regulated by physical conditions, while the demand for others is determined to a certain extent by local interference. The total value of the exports of Victoria in 1883, including all that is produced or manufactured in the colony, was £ 16,398,863. Raw and natural produce figure, of course, prominently in this return—the two main articles being wool and gold, which between them make up more than two-thirds of the exports. The United Kingdom is of course by far the greatest customer for Victorian produce, but there is a very considerable trade with the other colonies, and with the British possessions in the East. Victoria however imports more largely from the neighbouring colonies, than she exports to them. The total value of the imports into Victoria in 1883 was £17,743,846. The shipping employed in the trade of Victoria, though less than that which goes to New South Wales, is greater than that to any other British possession, excepting Gibraltar, Malta, India, Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Canada. It was represented in 1881 by 2,412,000 tons. The finances of the colony are in a prosperous state, though at the first view the indebtedness of this as of the other states of Australia appears to timid economists at home to be excessive. Taking the clear and comprehensive statement lately published by the Victorian Agent-General, Mr. Murray Smith, for our guide, we find that, before the late loan of four millions was placed on the market, the public debt of Victoria amounted to £22,000,000. At the present date the total debt is in round figures £24,000,000. This is a little more than £25 per head of the population, and equal to something less than four years' revenue. It is rather less than the average of indebtedness of the Australian colonies, though £3 a head more than the load which is upon the inhabitants of enco whil inve rate road Vict for t had of t bala the unfa take little intei be se is re. want VICTORIA. 217 1 Great Britain. The remarks we have made on this subject under the head of New South Wales will apply with equal force to Victoria. These com- munities must not be judged in regard to their indebtedness by the standards of the old world. What they have pledged is a future of almost illimitable expansion, being themselves only in the very spring and bud of their growth. The question is not how much Victoria owes, but what she has to show for the money, and what is the prospect of repayment. The security which the creditors of Australia have is undoubted. Even applying that test to which the colonies have been so absurdly: challenged, when they are asked if they could pay off the principal of their debt if called upon to do so, Mr. Murray Smith proves that Victoria is perfectly solvent—that her public works on which all her borrowed money has been spent, could be sold without difficulty for the amount of her public debt. As in the other colonies the public debt of Victoria, though large in proportion to the population, has not been incurred by foreign wars. It represents rather invested capital than loss, seeing that the money spent has been sunk in reproductive public works. The Australian colonies, as Mr. Murray Smith remarks, have had no enemies to encounter more formidable than kangaroos or rabbits. Their indebtedness, while it has afforded the capitalists of Great Britain a profitable means of investing their money, has enabled the borrowers to develop at an accelerated rate the natural resources of the country, and to make easier and cheaper their road to the waste lands of the interior. Up to the 31st of December, 1883, , Victoria had spent £21,488,065 on her railways, of which 1,562 miles were open for traffic, and 130 more in process of construction. Of this sum £17,900,000 had been provided by loans, the remainder having been contributed out of the Victorian exchequer. After paying all expenses of working, the net balance in the railway account was last year £751,636, representing interest on the capital expended at the rate of 4:172 per cent. This is by no means an unfavourable return, considering that the original railway works were under- taken at a period when labour was comparatively dear, and the colony had but little experience of the requirements of the traffic. Seeing that the amount of interest payable on the debenture capital of railways in 1881 was £918,218, it will be seen that the Victorian railways do not yet pay in a commercial sense, but there is reasonable ground for believing that they will do so before long. What is wanted is of course a large population to swell the traffic as well as to share in 218 VICTORIA. up difi Vic Thi whị the whi esta to froi nui hac sec the Nin reci the burden of the expenditure. The indirect benefit to the colony of its railway system, now extending north, east, and west, in raising the value of the country lands, in giving facilities for the transport of the staple articles of produce, and in dispersing the people over new fields of industry, cannot be estimated in figures. Besides the railways, on which over twenty millions have been expended, the water-works, of incalculable value in a dry climate like that of Victoria, have absorbed more than three millions of borrowed capital, and a great portion of the new loan of four millions is to be devoted to the same works, under the provisions of an excellent Act passed by the late O’Loghlen administration. But, whatever may have been the errors committed by Victorian financiers in the past, and however fantastic may have been some of their fiscal ideas (on which it is no part of our duty to dwell), there cannot be any doubt that the financial position of Victoria is at present a sound one. “We are,” says Mr. Murray Smith in conclusion, “an English community living under English laws, with English sentiments, proud, not only of our prosperity and progress but of our fidelity to all our monetary engagements; and it is not within the bounds of possibility that we should ever have any desire, or indeed any excuse, for evading the scrupulous and punctual discharge of any debt we have incurred or are ever likely to incur in the future.” But the best natural guarantee which the English creditor can have of the perfect solvency of Victoria is asserted by the fact that the revenue for the year ending June, 1884, was £5,786,913, which is at the rate of £6 per head of the population, which is nearly three times more in proportion than is yielded by Great Britain, and twice as much as any other country in the world yields outside the Australian colonies. As in New South Wales, though not nearly to so large an extent, a great portion, about one-sixth of the Victorian revenue, is derived from land, a resource which, of course, will not be always available to the colonial financiers. Political and Social Condition. In all essential points Victoria resembles New South Wales in her political and social institutions. The Constitution has perhaps more of a popular element in the younger colony. The Upper House is elective in Victoria, and by recent reforms has been brought more into harmony with the Lower, which it is to be hoped will lessen the friction between the two. Whether the assimilation of what was intended to be the controlling second chamber to the popular assembly will not rather have the effect of setting age inst wit stili Nat scu and tere Fin an in VICTORIA 219 up an antagonism between the two, is a point on which there is room for much difference of opinion. The latest change in the political situation indicates that Victoria has entered upon a period of repose, after her long fever of agitation. The State, undertaking duties far more numerous and complicated than those which devolve on the central government at home, makes bountiful provision for the moral and physical welfare of the community. The Melbourne University, which is handsomely endowed both by public and private munificence, was established within two years of the birth of the colony itself, and is open to youth of all denominations and of either sex. The professors are chosen from men who have made their mark at the English universities. The total number of students attending lectures was 370 in 1881, up to which date 477 had been admitted to degrees. The system of primary education is purely secular, costing some £600,000 a year. The total number of State schools in the colony last year was 1,757, with an average attendance of 121,250 scholars. Ninety-six per cent. of all the children in Victoria at the school age are now receiving education either in the public or private schools. The educational agencies in the shape of libraries and museums are also prominent among the institutions of Victoria, and are in extent and in wealth worthy to be compared with those of any country in the old world. The Melbourne Public Library, still unfinished, has cost £112,000 and contains 120,000 volumes. The National Gallery contains some 13,000 works of art, including oil-paintings, sculptures, and engravings. There are a National Museum and an Industrial and Technological Museum. All these institutions are now liberally adminis- tered and more largely used by the people than similar ones in the old country. Finally, as in New South Wales, religion is free and all denominations upon an equal footing—the Church of England largely predominating in numbers, in wealth, and in influence. - 220 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. CHAPTER XVIII.—SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 140° 61 Thanh The first port visited by those of the Orient Company's steamers which make the long sea voyage is Adelaide, in the Gulf of St. Vincent, the capital of South Australia. This colony has been unfortunate in its nomenclature. It is not the most southern of the Australian colonies, for nearly the whole of Victoria is south of it, and it extends to within a few miles of the most northerly point of Queensland. A more becoming designation for the colony, if the present anomalous distribution of the Australian territory is to be retained, would be Central Australia, for the heart of the continent is included within its dominion. This northern territory, with which the only practicable communication is by sea from Adelaide, was added to the old colony in 1863, in recognition of the labours of the South Australian explorer Stuart, who first penetrated through the centre of Australia. The original settlement of the colony dates from December, 1836, when Captain Hindmarsh was appointed Governor under the auspices of the South Australian Colonisation Association. The scheme of colonisation adopted was that of Mr. Edward Gibbon Wakefield, of which the leading principle was that the land should be sold at a fixed high price, the proceeds to be devoted to immigration. The success of the enterprise was marred in the beginning by the outbreak of a feverish thirst for land speculation. Land was bought up to an extravagant extent, and the colony flooded with immigrants in excess of the demand and out of all proportion to the means of settlement and the natural rate of growth. The result was a total collapse of the colonisation scheme within three years of its adoption. In a few years, however, the colony rose superior to the blunders of its founders, and as its agricultural resources became better known to the world, immigrants began again to resort to its shores. Up to the date of the discovery of gold in the eastern colonies, South Australia was preferred by settlers of a better class, who sought not so much a fortune as a home in the new southern world. The gold fever drew away a large portion of her labouring population to Victoria, but from this new disaster South Australia quickly recovered, and has eventually profited. Although the precious metal was not found within her borders, the copper mines of the Burra Burra, Moonta, and Wallaroo, were some 136 ert Wynbring 32 36 34 Gardner Eymitanyaka landers durinishinder to the Murray Senub Bolingbro 1 Sir J.Banks I ! Oort Linstictory . SPENCER Sapphire Bay Back Staire Hussage Thum 136 Stuart art 1958 140 Wynbring Tea veel WHose Chimpering Warburton Salut. L. Reynolds Arkona * Macrty Salt Lag! Lyounghusband Andamoka Cumpbell : ling Mirage M! Ebai Hanson Lake Shell) M.Parry Owiandina MDetergio Serk Prismu No s'insupio ngapina Med Geridip W Beland Main Gauti Nilcogliend Frome 1. Finding Rock W! Smgche Whole loroberriberra Hart I Hot Spr. Torrens Opan Salt Rush Country Boule Hau, Morphetto Blinnan Mine Dawson . smogrid Reapin Hook: Ediowe Batind Artibidine Sall bo GA SA Kolonna Rook W Pernatty? Raumors R Campbell Wyacca H GiBlytin M'EYTE BertByte Halloby DLFinnis 132 Skorat. 1. Duttang R. Sto Sinclair Rike Derall Friday Cuts Fowler boz Puck TFT Fowler B qarile Koweit Waryanes Ra. Barren Plains SA anta dan C. Blanche Whal MYoung fan Middle M tode False HighP Jartoh Prie Saret BrowyH. uebrget" Anxious B. Spr. Shofidwater ocorre Har ranklin Kooringa shor Tchulull Warred M.Farlane Bedal. 2 Tlpakina Yarthindas Salt Harri P. Victor Kondoolka Wyrachy Euro H. Tlpyake. Filodura Wukeroo speers W cenin Porr Gladdie Bype Wallanippe Sali Augusta Plain Lakes tirtuig te Takaboo Franäge Franklin Island Very danse strub Portar Boornee Port Nuyts ArchipStreakyB Pekina Paterson Pinda Plair Hope Distur Bauer Blads Hill , Blanche! Sureb Freeting Ra. Poland Corvisart B. Notley Flinders Yawaletta Melrose Mauris Westall Pla L.Gilles Sceale B. Fat top! ger Rangt M.Cooper German Porcupine Hill TIBULU Vid back ac Jarr M. Pullen Sanày with brusk Ward tu Alaul Bryan Grassy Ward Resorback Waldogrele Tedgeltill P.Broughton Stony & Sandy Bart Hill Rearan Hawdon 1: Mundoora Minderat Fuiston Sale Hardless Barungga liare "Рър седалі бар Perwortham Investigator : Wallaudo Wallapo Bumbungal Rocky I. Low degubby Prarsoni: Great Band Hoyleton Lorrock bluri Tipgra Humorocks Berna fulangan JI Hope Paballoonta Lapson piatorio Sclem.B rGreenly Clinton Andy P! News Coutta tight pada gurdard Bar Boorunda Parara Greatyap Payana or S. Bend Jangarg Bardy I. Wardang!! Alired AM Shields Garket Luscombe Greenly I! Avoid B. Spilsby 1. P. Garlar Og stor sus Tulka Vincent High sand built Dangerou fort Tplor Chambers Addaide Grundolt, SADELAIDER Nairn Holdfast. XBarkar Gore onnel Hurtle Vale Matala Cambiar I Mumay be paura Wedge Up! Oonino Marion B. Wellington T20 Marida SFictoria Geographical Miles 2 Welles 40 nu Ginse/Bonney Welle) 40 Kingscote C Bonda Albert English Miles. Conor D'Estree B. Fiver's seat Jog 2 Bonn Tumby I. PDrammond Rocky I. Coffin B. P! Sir Isaac p!Whidbe Balgowcom Murtay P.Victoriah . PART OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA. SHEWINC ADELAIDE, ETC. rke Peninsula Hi Varsa Perforated 1.2 41!: Whidbey froides Breakers porey Corny P. Hardwicke B. 29 San I. Williams । By Stereo obrithalby TORIA Trowbridge C. Spencer Althorpe I. Gofst Allinge B Keptune Willy Lovestigator Strait Iankabilia Rapid Nepa kolm ICTO Kangaroo r. PXlliot Kotor ugland C. Redout- Pages Vivonne B. Clinois Cooro VI Salt ? C.Willoughby Salt WC 220 Sand Patch 132 Long. E. of Greenwich 134 136' 138 140 —— SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 221 compensation, and the local agriculturists benefited largely by the sudden demand for bread-stuffs from Victoria and New South Wales. In 1852 a sum equal to two millions and a quarter was transmitted from Melbourne to Adelaide in payment for cereals, flour, and farm produce. In 1856, the colony was endowed with a Constitution, on a basis similar to those of the other colonies, and since then its progress, though not " by leaps and bounds,” has been steady and uninter- rupted. In 1860-62, Mr. A. M. Stuart, the intrepid explorer, furnished by the munificence of certain South Australian merchants, made his famous journeys through the heart of the continent from south to north, reaching the shores of Clarence Straits in lat. 12° S. Since then a telegraph line has been carried across from Adelaide to Port Darwin, a distance of 2,200 miles, bringing Australia into communication with all parts of the world. This great work was executed, and is maintained, solely at the expense of the colony, being a striking proof of the intelligence and public spirit which animate the people of South Australia. Area and Physical Character.-The boundaries of South Australia as now fixed are, on the north, the Indian Ocean, on the south the Southern Ocean, on the east Queensland, New South Wales, and Victoria, and on the west West Australia. Roughly speaking the South Australian territory takes an oblong slice out of the middle of the Australian continent, with the greatest length from north to south (about 27 degrees of latitude), and a maximum width of about 1,000 iniles. The total area of the old colony up to July, 1863, was 380,000 square miles. Since the accession of the northern territory the area has been increased to 903,690 square miles, or 578,361,000 acres, making this the second largest of the Australian colonies, about three times larger than New South Wales, and more than ten times larger than Victoria. Of this immense area, extending from the temperate zone to more than half way within the tropics, by far the larger portion is up to the present time unexplored and unsettled. Of the country lying between the limits of settlement on the south and the shores of the rivers and bays opening into the Indian Ocean, nothing is known except along the routes traversed by the explorers Stuart, Mackinlay, Warburton, and Forrest, yet there is every reason to believe that it is of a far different character from that which it bore up to within a recent period. The old theory that Central Australia was either a vast stony desert or a shallow lake has long since been exploded. Every fresh journey into the interior proves that the extent of fertile land which 222 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. i has hitherto lain out of the reach of occupation is far greater than the most sanguine had ventured to hope a few years ago. The itinerary of Stuart tells us of innumerable streams and watercourses, running at least for a portion of the year, with grassy plains, trees, and scrub-in fact of a country very similar to that within the settled districts available doubtless, even at present, for the depasturing of sheep and cattle, and fit to maintain an agricultural population at some future date. Some of the rivers which flow northward into the Indian Ocean run through alluvial plains of great fertility, which promise by and by to be the sites of sugar and cotton plantations. At their mouths is to be found generally good anchorage, and some are navigable for a considerable distance for vessels of small burden. So little is known, however, of the capabilities of this region that it is unnecessary to dwell at any length upon this feature of South Australia. Suffice it to say that in her northern territory South Australia has a potentiality of increase equal to that enjoyed by any country under the sun, for though it is true that the greater part lies within the tropics, the climate even up to the extreme north has been found to be salubrious, preserved by the dryness and elasticity of the Australian air from most of the dangers and inconveniences attendant on life in the tropics for persons of European birth. There are at present only two inhabited townships in the northern territory, Palmerston and Southport, within twenty-six miles of each other, both on the shores of Port Darwin, a magnificent harbour second only to Port Jackson in extent and convenience. The former is the capital and the seat of a Govern- ment resident, with a population at the last census of 572 persons, six hotels, three banks, two or three churches, and a Government House of stone. Southport is the shipping place for the newly discovered gold fields at Gum Creek. According to recent advices the South Australian Government is about to form another settlement on the Roper River, which flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria and is navigable for 100 miles by large vessels. The total population of the new territory is now over 5,000, three-fourths of whom are Chinamen, either imported by the Government or attracted thither by the news of the gold discovery. Of that portion of the colony which lies outside the tropical line it may be said that in its general features it partakes of the physical character which is typical of the Australian interior. As might be expected over so vast a region, there is a great diversity of scenery. Of the settled districts the chief characteristics are the extensive plains, thinly timbered, the greater SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 223 part of which is among the best agricultural land in Australia. Along the line of the continental telegraph the soil is bare, overgrown with "spinifex” (Triodium irritans), but capable with irrigation of producing fruit and grain in abundance. The mountain ranges are highest in the south-east, where they attain to a maximum height of 3,000 feet. Of the rivers the principal is the Murray, the father of Australian streams, which ends its long and sluggish course in Lake Alexandrina. There are two or three other large. lakes in the interior, chiefly salt, of which Lake Eyre which receives the drainage of a vast area of territory extending far into New South Wales and Queensland on one side. Lake Torrens and Lake Gairdner are the principal. These large surfaces of water, otherwise of little advantage to the colony, tend materially to temper the aridity which is the chief character of the South Australian climate. In other respects the colony shares the reputation which all temperate Australia enjoys of a salubrity greatly in excess of that which is the portion of European or Asiatic countries under the same latitude. In respect of its rate of mortality South Australia stands fifth among all the southern colonies, but this is no sure criterion of comparative health, seeing that assisted immigration is carried on much more extensively here than in the other colonies, so that the health of the community is affected by other than causes arising out of purely local conditions. The total population of South Australia in June, 1884, was estimated at 314,293, of which in 1881 there were nearly 20,000 immigrants by sea, which gives a proportion of new comers to the residents larger than that in any of the other colonies. Resources and Products.—The productions of South Australia are similar to those of the eastern colonies, the chief difference being that up to the present time gold has not figured conspicuously among the exports, while agriculture is perhaps in a more forward state, and certainly more systematically pursued. Wheat, wool, and copper are three of the principal sources of colonial wealth. In 1884 the total area of land under cultivation was 2,754,560 acres, of which 1,846,151 were under wheat, yielding a return of 14,649,230 bushels. Taking the average of the last few years, South Australia is still at the head of all the wheat growing colonies of Australasia, bread-stuffs forming its chief article of export. Next comes wool, which was exported in 1884 to the value of £1,500,000 sterling; and thirdly, copper, which, though it has experienced severe depression, is now reviving The total value of } a once more 224 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. this metal exported from the colony from the beginning has been estimated at £16,000,000. One mine alone, the Moonta, has paid £1,000,000 sterling in dividends. In the older districts of the colony there has been no payable gold-field as yet discovered, but very recently there has come a report of valuable auriferous ground having been struck in the northern territory, and should it be verified, this new resource will help greatly to forward the develop- ment of the vast domain which at present South Australia seems puzzled how to turn to profit. The northern territory will doubtless be formed by and by into a separate colony, and it has a great future before it as a tropical plantation. We must not forget to mention among the industries which are characteristic of South Australia, that of wine-making. The climate and soil of the colony are very favourable to vine-growing, and South Australian wines are already among those best known in England from this part of the world. They are strong and inclined to be heady, but with greater care and experience in the after process of racking and fining, we may expect them by and by to be as much esteemed abroad as they are already at home. The total annual produce from about 4,000 acres is 460,000 gallons. Commerce and Revenue.-From the financier's point of view South Australia is not so rich as some of her more go-ahead sisters in the east, but, considering that she has not yet attained her jubilee, her progress towards wealth must be reckoned highly satisfactory, and at a rate which, in any other part of the world than Australia, would be considered extraordinary. The imports and exports together represent a trade of over £10,000,000 sterling per annum, the colony exporting at the rate of nearly £20 per head of the population, which is about equal to that of Victoria or New South Wales. To one-half that extent South Australia is a customer of Great Britain, and a sustainer of the home industries. The revenue of the colony is a little over £2,000,000 sterling, and its public debt on the 30th of June, 1884, amounted to £15,511,000. As in the other colonies, the whole of the money, borrowed from British capitalists, has been spent on railways and public works, greatly to the advantage of the country in respect of the development of its resources. Of Government railways and tramways, there were 1,032 miles open in 1884, besides 439 under construction. There are 7,227 miles of telegraph wire at work, including the great trans- continental line to Port Darwin. Finally, there are in the local banks assets to the amount of £8,500,000, besides £1,250,000 in the savings-banks. ADELAIDE 2 as th el of st ha by li: w di G m foi ра th: of SC he со 226 QUEENSLAND. sisters, and she bids fair to equal the best of them in a few years more. Nothing in the history of British colonisation is more startling than the progress which has been made by this community in the struggle for existence. Originally dis- covered by Captain Cook in 1770, the sea-board was afterwards visited by Flinders, but it was not until the year 1823 that any attempt was made to explore the interior. In that year Surveyor-General Oxley, from Sydney, fixed upon the spot twenty miles up the Brisbane River which is the capital of the present colony. The country was occupied soon after by squatters, who here as elsewhere were the pioneers of settlement and civilisation, and in the search of grazing ground for their flocks and herds rapidly opened up the territory to the north and west. Up to 1859 it was part of New South Wales, and governed thence under the name of the Moreton Bay District. In December of that year it was started into independent life as the colony of Queensland. The line of division commences on the seaboard, in lat. 28° 10' S. at Point Danger, and is taken along a range of mountains rising to 4,500 feet, called the Macpherson, then fol- lows the westernmost course of the Dumaresq and Macintyre Rivers till it touches the 29th parallel, then due west up to long. 141° S. On the north, the Queensland boundary takes in a number of islands, following the line of the Great Barrier Reef to the north-eastern extremity about lat. 9° 30' S. containing the Talbot and Deliverance Islands in Torres Straits. On the west the colony is separated from South Australia by an imaginary line, formed for the greater part by the 138th meridian of longitude. The total area of Queensland is 668,224, making it the third in size of the Australian colonies, and five times and a half larger than the United Kingdom. Of this vast area, nearly one-half of which is within the tropics, about one-third remains up to the present time waste and unoccupied, but squatting stations already reach the South Australian border, and every year sees more and more of the wilderness conquered and made subject to Already the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria have echoed with the footfall of the white man, and when the great Continental Railway, of which the concession has already been made to a syndicate of English capitalists, is com- pleted, an immense impetus will be given to the development of Queensland. Climate and Physical Character. As inight be expected from its spreading over so many degrees of latitude, Queensland is a country of very varied character, comprising the features of almost every country under the British flag. On the south we have a climate differing but little from that of the man, ea sų ins sh A tre of fre vis oti lat ag wb wh lat est EI m pu CO ha sui trc SO ро Q of mc of gui ma rep as QUEENSLAND. 227 eastern seaboard of New South Wales. Even within the tropics, though the summers are hot and long, the dryness of the air and the sea-breezes near the coast make them far from unpleasant. Running along the coast at distances vary- ing from fifty to two hundred miles is a range of hills which forms the water- shed of the rivers flowing west and north into the great basin of Central Australia and into the Gulf of Carpentaria, and of the lesser streams of more tropical character which fall into the Pacific. Along this ridge is a table-land of considerable width, where the cold is sometimes excessive in winter, and frost and ice by no means uncommon. The lowlands on the sea-coast are visited by the South-East Trades, which mitigate the ardour of a heat which otherwise is less trying to the European constitution than that of similar latitudes in the old world and in America. In the far interior, though fever and ague are not unknown they are due entirely to the exposure and privation which have to be endured in these regions by the hardy pioneers. On the whole it may be said that there is no country in the world within the same latitudes, covering so wide an area of virgin soil, both so healthful and so inter- esting as Queensland. There is certainly no country in the world where an Englishman can live an outdoor life in all seasons and with such entire immunity from all physical ills, unless among these are to be included mosquitos and sand-flies. Doubtless there are some avocations which cannot be pursued so well by persons of the British race in northern Queensland so comfortably as at home, but up to the present time the process of settlement has not reached that point so often foretold, when the white man would succumb to the tropical heat, and the wool of the sheep turn to hair. The tropics of Australia are not like the tropics anywhere else, nor is life subject to so many restrictions and drawbacks by reason of the heat as in other of our possessions within the same distance of the Equator. That the sun of Queensland is fiercer than that of Victoria makes itself manifest in the character of the local vegetation as compared with that of the south. The trees are of more varied shape and richer growth. In some of its forms the flora partakes of the luxuriant and bizarre character of Central America. The everlasting gum-tree is here not so prominent a feature in the landscape. There are many genera and species within the limits of the colony which have no representatives in the southern colonies, bearing considerable affinity, such the Dammara and the Corypha palm, to those of the Malayan Q 2 as 228 QUEENSLAND. h mesi ܝܝ ܢܝ Archipelago. The Bunya-Bunya (Araucaria Bidwellii) is one of the most ornamental of forest trees. Scarcely inferior in beauty are the Moreton Bay pine (Araucaria Cunninghamil) and Moreton Bay chestnut (Castanospermum australe), which are among the commonest of the characteristic trees of this region. The Adansonia Gregorii, Sour Gourd or Cream of Tartar Tree, is closely allied to the Baobab of equatorial Africa, with a girth out of all proportion to its height, forming one of the greatest curiosities of the vegetable world. There are many other trees valuable for timber, with properties medicinal and economical, as yet unknown, including furniture woods of the highest quality, such as the cypress (Callitris), the tulip-wood, and the sandal-wood. The indigenous vegetable wealth of Queensland is scarcely yet thoroughly explored, and promises to be an inexhaustible resource in the future. In addition to its natural productions, there is no plant or fruit of the Oriental or Occidental tropics and the warmer temperate zone which may not be grown in Queensland. The pineapple and the banana grow along the lowlands of the coast as luxuriantly as in any part of the world. The sugar-cane and the cotton shrub thrive as well as in Jamaica or in Brazil. Side by side with the purely tropical fruits grow the orange and the vine, though, of course, these latter are found more at home in the cooler table-land of the interior. At Roma, in lat. 26° 37', which was yesterday the extreme limit of settlement westward and the terminus of the Central Railway, itself a creation of the last dozen years, there are already orangeries and vineyards, producing according to Mr. Thomas Archer, fruit equal to any in the world, besides figs and peaches though of these latter it is reported that they were “cut up by severe frosts,” an incident which will startle those who have been under the idea that Queensland is a country too hot for British settlement. Population and Vital Statistics.—The population of Queensland in 1883 was 287,475, but at the existing rate of growth it is now probably over 300,000. Of these, 11,000 are Chinese, including twenty-three females of that race, and 6,348 Polynesians. The number of the aborigines it is scarcely possible to reckon with any accuracy, from their nomad habits, but they are estimated at about 20,000. As elsewhere, they are receding and diminishing before the approach of the white man, though it is probable that the process of extinction will be longer delayed in northern Australia than in the south, owing to the impediments offered by nature to European settlements, the more genial climate, and the greater 9 b y fi ii ti V р ti by QUEENSLAND. 229 abundance of indigenous means of life. In spite of the hot sun, and the more trying climatic conditions, the charms of life in Queensland are scarcely less than in any of the temperate colonies. The temperature of the air, though high throughout the year, is more constant than is usual in the same isothermal line. The thermometrical mean at Brisbane throughout the year is 69º9. There is a well-defined rainy season along the coast, setting in about the end of February, the rainfall being in excess of that in the southern colonies. The winters are dry, cloudless, and most agreeable. The death rate in Queensland during fifteen years was only seventeen and a fraction per 1,000, which is very little higher than that of the healthiest Australian colony, and far lower than that of any other British possession outside the southern hemisphere, and from four to five lower than the normal rate of Great Britain. There are no endemic diseases, and the most dangerous epidemics are scarlatina and measles. Finally it may be said that even in the extreme northern district of the colony, by the banks of the rivers fringed with tropical growths, there has not as yet been developed any malaria. Commerce and Revenue.--As might be expected from the diversified character of the soil and climate, the products of Queensland are singularly various, and a catalogue of them would include almost everything which constitutes the wealth of a country, from wheat to sugar, from wool and gold to spices and bêche-de-mer. The total extent of land under cultivation up to the end of 1882 was 128,876 acres. The chief cereal grown is maize. About 1,000 acres are devoted to cotton, of which a very fine sample, equal to the best Sea Island, is produced on the coast. About 15,000 acres are under cane yielding last year 20,000 tons of sugar. Among the other agricultural exports figure arrowroot, tobacco, wine, pineapples, bananas, and oranges. The pastoral industry as yet is far in advance of the agricultural, and may be expected to take the lead for many years to come. The number of sheep in the colony are returned at 11,507,475, of horned cattle 4,246,141, of horses 236,154. The total value of the wool exported in 1881, in quantity over twenty-five millions of pounds, was in round numbers £2,300,000. The mineral resources of the colony, though only imperfectly developed, include payable deposits of gold, copper, tin and coal. The value of the gold raised in 1883 was nearly one million sterling, the number of persons engaged in the pursuit being 8,400, of whom one half are Chinese, their average earnings being £113 a year, which is in excess of 230 QUEENSLAND. that in any other colony. From the first discovery in 1867 to the end of 1881 there has been produced in Queensland gold of the total value of thirteen millions and a quarter. Tin promises to be an article of scarcely inferior importance to gold, some of the richest deposits in the world of this metal having been discovered on the Wild River, in the Cook District, in the extreme north of the colony. Near Maryborough is reported to exist the most promising coal-field in Australia. Of stranger products are pearls and sea-slugs. The pearl fishery is actively pursued on the northern coast, and employs some 700 persons, chiefly Malays, Polynesians, and Chinese. In 1881 there were exported nearly 8,000 cwt. of pearl shell, and 5,000 cwt. of the sea-slugs or bêche-de-iner, a delicacy much esteemed in China, valued at from £40 to £90 a ton. All these are sources of revenue, direct and indirect, to the colony. The total exports in 1883 were of the value of £5,276,608; the imports, which comprise every description of manufactured articles, almost exclusively from Great Britain, amounting to a little over £6,000,000. The whole commerce of Queensland, which in 1841, according to Mr. Archer, was carried on by one small cutter trading to Sydney, now employs over a million and a half tons of British shipping. The national finances exhibit almost the same feature of plethoric abundance which is characteristic of the returns of Australian Treasurers. The revenue in 1883-4 was £2,566,358, having more than doubled in ten years. The public debt at the end of 1883 was £14,917,850. The fact that the colony has been enabled to borrow the sum it wants for the further promotion of its public works and the development of its resources at a trifle over 4 per cent., is the best proof that its credit stands high in this country, notwithstanding what appears to be the large amount to which it is already pledged. Upon this head it would be needless to repeat what we have said elsewhere in defence of the policy of borrowing to pay for reproductive works. Heavily as Queensland has mort- gaged her future, there can be no doubt as to the soundness of the security and the honesty of the debtor. If much has been spent by the colony during its short life, there is much to show for it. There is an extensive system of national railways, with branches in all directions. Over 1,000 miles are already open for traffic, besides 500 under construction. The Southern and Western Railway, which is the longest and most important, in connection with the proposed grand trans-continental line, extends, or will shortly extend, to the township of Mitchell, 370 miles from Brisbane. Thence it is to be continued due west to NORTHERN Jardine R one Sicus Bordland Inies Baduria, Mual cooktwn Sackendy Margarida Grenvilo Coor offer you The GULF Retro Loyd B. Direction Shound hash bler Biphera Archer CARP EN TARIA Bathurst B Heavy brak Duron "Cpass Rang Lang Nirian Beje Son C.Bow cMurdia SHELBURNE BAY .ITEMPLE BAY 'as remomt 1! low de wood Avant pe:Charlotte Bay Lorange of race tendang X2 C. Melville high w2.lu Mierilo Palm Trainerpilla Jare 60 of Xi Bull Ra. Premier Ra Barkly Pj Pretty 10° Hudora was lost 1791 on which IKS Rain I indstutigabicis Entrance 1825 Yurtrode Entrance 1822. E tortor point. ship Morten Star lose her. Duythen fil Kanalysera o Sandy Providential Chan' Weymouth Hibernia Entra RIO. OF Bligh Boat Entrance 88. 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R Llama (Bogdan time we Rich grass Mitchell Salt Stutery Mornington Rockburna NONDE CONTRY Fin. Pastura Pauly p' Parka R.Van Diana R. Gambert daritatis Brodere le Lynd R Tyte R. heaton hill Prestigator Rosal R. Marion » May Walmda R\Gilbert Aadhi ChronR Bynor Int Albert R Rosheka may bemuox Einn sleigh large Bu Bule T25 Disaster Surprise Party 10 Jale Les KOULTO Black Cap 18 SOI TU AUSTRALIA 400 po prale Wieders R TKU Bold IL. borough teiste xong Yaradan Rowdy Harry PALL Stowell -- Haina B Healer Jigar R Gregorio St Leichhardt R loncurs R Balfour ty Xerman Prdon Pullarum in Kahelyteberet na Bra Elliot اما Pring Barvey G Davis لا يصدم Pucaldo Potence in *Ingre ut 110 -- QUEENSLAND. Witarin Hay Edgerunsbe Rav&Cape Thunder York: 1 Spaul..or the Dresch Ende Seat Wall : Samae Busio 1 Jardine R Dial. Inlet Porn SHELBURXE BAY Cla remont 1 low & wood Fa partir de Dame Ramach agt Grosso saun pe:Charlotte Bay 11 Long rape of moes onling NE 1:16 118 130 152 112 TILF ht Melbot Sh. Aby Salase Ados TRAIT TORRE SA I. Sewcardo B. kon on which XS. wora wa Lost 1791. 412 cookburn re Indekatigables Entrance 2018 Maryang AY Yumrod Entrance 2873 E limet SoinI ship Morning Su lost her Duvther PC Kennedy> Ovo 1848 owy Providential Oran' Weymon horias Entra Para nad Big Boat Entrance 2789. kruh C.Sidnout Round - Direction op Tumagain 11 Hipe breaker Here Dorel 112 cape Bedford Bakida NIK 13 Coon R. Grenpa TENPLE G re "ВА Ҳи и ac Reaton Doyd B. C.Direction Shonard ! edes low us Ispheta his break Small but ¥ 0 Ꭱ Ꮶ Sandy! Archer io soudy sowick P Linardi 24 AR PENINSULA Do NORTHERN CONTINUATION OF QUEENSLAND. Bathurst B. C.Melville Arrow Barrie Kooktown Honduwe Bougainville Real 3 Endeavour Red Weary B C I F Diana Shool C Cape. Tribulation r 16 Tough Lilley Cron Cairns Grafton Sandy Re e fs அகம் Bramstun P Belladar M'Bute Frang Farkland I Sandy / Sonde 12 grepet Bartlar E A N HA Barnard : Penent school powd 1827 Ger! Carughare Tharrone bunal wmly De Cardwell Rockingham Bay :roku S Sandwich inchinbrook while Ties Longue 18 ing redu Pelian : obronie Red 13 riun : Postage HALIFAX BA Burdokio Kolated on Hinchiale "Townsle Slevyland B. Home Rawling Green B. 73 se compliance ham willigt 25 Michael Wirkun E D. Dalrympla antes wave Looked T T H Dick Labeorin Susters Towers elgtrupel! strhlaus LabdulBay Kelhart. Nlinghe fully Bow Glowe er. 118 1.52 Seade ot Eaghsh Miles. 232 WESTERN AUSTRALIA. social, and literary, to be expected of the capital of so rich and prosperous a state. The land laws are very liberal, and though by far the largest proportion of the soil, so far as it has been occupied, is in the hands of squatters, held under leases for grazing and cattle-rearing, the area which has been already selected for homesteads is 746,000 acres, leaving still open more than 25,000,000 acres for selection. The average price of land is ios. 6d. an acre. Immigration is on the assisted system, and much encouraged, though the granting of land orders as an inducement to immigrants has been lately suspended. In all respects Queensland stands in the very foremost rank among the states which have been formed under the ægis of England, and is already one of the brightest gems which adorn the British Crown. Contemplating at once her marvellous growth and vigorous and exuberant youth we may well predict for her a brilliant manhood. WESTERN AUSTRALIA. The first land sighted by the Orient steamers after leaving the coaling station at Diego Garcia is Cape Leeuwin, whose frowning cliffs are Australia's first uncheerful greeting to the sea-borne stranger from the West. This is within the territory of Western Australia, the least favoured and the most back- ward, although the largest and not the youngest of the Australian colonies. Nearer to Great Britain than any of her sisters, and placed, as we might suppose, more directly in the stream of commerce, Western Australia, for reasons which it is not very easy to explain except on a theory unflattering to the character of the territory has hitherto lain neglected and unknown. This western coast was one of the earliest portions of the continent to be visited by navigators, the Dutch having been there as early as the sixteenth century. Cape Leeuwin itself was first sighted in 1622. Dampier sailed along the north-west coast in 1688, and the early buccaneers are supposed to have made more use of its bays and harbours, lying so conveniently near the great routes of commerce to the east, than they have chosen to tell. The French, in the early years of this century, seem to have paid particular attention to Western Australia, with some idea, we believe, of a settlement. It was not until 1829, however, that Captain Fremantle, in the Challenger, brought the first batch of English settlers to the Swan River, this being about the first distinct attempt to colonise any portion of Australia by free immigration. For several years the colony had a puntnons E ' Anson B ... Peron I. Browser . Coronation ! York & Pr Frederic 29 Wollaston 1 . Buccaneer Archip Sunday Str . & King Stapsules stl ZonneX Ashon Rang 115° 120° 125 130° 135 10 Goulbus 10 c.Vem Diemen NORTHERN PORTIONS OF WESTERN AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Amph R. E Apsler sa Bathurst Gordon B. Lethbridge B pobunition Ia the pain Brown St English compt Wilbertorer Melville B. ( Fourcroy Hibernia Sh operation Van Diemen G. Dale Adela Clarence $0. PortDannia King Ishnione Sh. Cartier Sub. Tel. to Java, Singapore & India Summerston C.Blaxc gonia Sameipon Disspeli BM Liverpool R Scale of English Miles. C. Adem Arnhem By 50 100 200 C.Londonderry Alexander C.Talboid C. Ford Caledon Grey Sicringapaly Sh Rulhiores Cambridge Admiralty und Cassing Barker !! 6. Bougainville Daly C.Dussgow 8:42O Scott R? C. Voltaire Montagues Port Keats Clay p! Pearce Queens Chan Blue mud B Droodah) 263. Bickartor Groolell BEylandt Limmen Bight etong C varu SELVuell Litmaurice B Augustus 1 Osbornell 15 Doment banho R North I. 15 Champagney Camdens Adote! Congoles or Cockburn Froe R B:Regent R AL Glenda Jasper) Daly) Liver SA Cheveque p! Emeriau Doubtful B JPmtgamerier Collie, B. Mir Arthur A. . pampeer Dumpien Tand Seven Lacepede e Carnog p. Coulomb p! Gantheaume Roebuck B Rowley Shoals 0 CE AN R_Calvai Wollaston Newcastle WT Sturt Plains Stokes B. PeTorment 1 Hall Dinding Range INDIAN Rotobue Waryaly Fier Roy Margarek Sturt Grid Denison Plains S 0 UT Clutouche Treville Улугилде В. Descuit B NI Short Ra. Dampier Arelvip M'Müller Radi Hills Muchia on Ra. Deul Ra. Clairy Rise of tide 236 Joanno Spr Soda bor *M:Wilson 2013 Roebourne LIsabella Turtiet De Gre Davoupon Ra. Forestieri: L.White Clerk or Picture Sk 32 Tryal Rocks Barow 1.0 Legendtels Rosemary low AUSTRALIA rata Ra Trimozite Sandy la Rosily Thevaard: Exmouth GX Macpherson S Τ Ε E RN Ethel N.W.Cape Hamersley 2000 'Brux W E Vuoi, R. 3800 Ontral M!Wedge Mumuell Ranges Harley gehthalmia M Ehrenber Tropic BotCapricou T SAS RA LI Lake Barlee Augusting Kelaina Plain Amadeo Curier! OM'Labouchere Parker ! with some for Parker ليعيق عمل Sutherlands Gascome! LChristopherr Peterman Rangel Ayers! και x Whitby L. Wilson 24. Yusetare dhe u 130° 25 SL Gonia 11 ل 115 Long. E. of Greenwich 120 Charlotte Wate 135 125 2 WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 233 sickly existence in the struggle against nature. There was no capital to develop the resources of the country, and no markets to which to carry the local products. All attempts to spread out into the interior were marred by a poisonous shrub which was fatal to sheep and to cattle, so that cultivation was limited to the region immediately round Perth, the chief seat of settlement, and Fremantle, the shipping port at the mouth of the Swan River. In 1850, the settlers, reduced to the direst straits, petitioned the Imperial Government to make Swan River a penal settlement, and with the arrival of the convicts there ensued a temporary period of prosperity. The Government expenditure gave a stimulus to the local trade and industry, and the ticket-of-leave men supplied the demand for labour. The settlement throve on the unholy aliment. The population increased, not only by transportation, but by the arrival of the families of the convicts, and by free immigration, which revived under the influence of the colonial prosperity. At the instance of the other colonies, which complained, not without reason, of the moral stigma, as well as the practical evils from which they suffered as long as any part of the continent was made a receptacle for British felons, transportation to Western Australia ceased altogether in 1868. To the colony itself, apart from the moral relief, it is doubtful whether this was not rather an injury than a benefit. Although it recovered its status as a free community, Western Australia was yet too feeble to do without the Imperial assistance it received in the shape of the money expended in the colony for the maintenance of the prisoners. It had not been able to acquire sufficient strength under convictism to withstand the trials of freedom, and to shake off, as other colonies have done, the evil reputation it had acquired as a penal settlement. The taint of the dung-heap clings to the soil, though the fertilising influence has gone. Of late years there have been symptoms of a healthier growth, and there can be no doubt that eventuai. Western Australia will take that place among the southern communities which nature has marked out for her. Meanwhile it must be confessed that this is the least vigorous of all the slips of the parent stock which have been planted in that genial Australian soil. General Character and Condition.-It will not be necessary to devote so much of our space to Western Australia as to the colonies we have already described. A glance at our map will show that the colony occupies about one- third of the whole continent, including an area of over one million square miles. It may be fairly presumed that this unequal distribution of the soil meni whic Aust of tł from (Eu ship) form sing whit and smo part trop terri vine of a tinei thes and Aus fron thoi of! aco mer tha resi Leg sou exp tort cutt is c of 1 WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 235 ment will be greatly assisted by the numerous excellent harbours and bays which abound on this coast. One important natural feature of Western Australia is the luxuriance of the indigenous woods. The timber trees, usually of the universal Eucalyptus family, are of great value, and mostly distinct from the eastern species. The jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata), and the kari (Eucalyptus colossea), are reckoned next to teak in durability and fitness for shipbuilding purposes, and already furnish an important local industry. The former, which, in addition to its usefulness, is a tree (for a Eucalyptus) of singular beauty, is supposed to cover an area of 14,000 square miles. The white gum (Eucalyptus gomphocephala), the sandalwood (Santalum persicarium) and the raspberry-jam wood or myall, a species of acacia, familiar to pipe- smokers, are some other prominent West Australian trees. But, as in other parts of Australia, there is scarcely anything, the product of temperate or tropical countries, which will not grow in some part or other of this magnificent territory. The olive seems to be specially at home in this colony, and the vine grows as luxuriantly as anywhere else in Australia. The indigenous forms of animal life are, of course, the same here as in other parts of the con- tinent, though found here as might be expected in greater abundance. Among these are to be reckoned the aboriginal Australians, who are more numerous and troublesome than on the eastern seaboard. The climate of Western Australia is reported to be even finer than that on the other side, being free from the hot winds which are the curse of Victoria and New South Wales, and though violent storms are not unfrequent, the long droughts and heavy floods of Eastern Australia are here unknown. The population of the colony, according to the last census, was 30,200, exclusive of aborigines. The govern- ment is directly under the Crown, the local legislature being of the pattern of that which is in use in those Crown Colonies which have not yet emerged into responsible institutions, consisting of an Executive Council of officials, and a Legislative Council, part nominated and part elected. The revenue from all sources in 1882 was £250,372, and the public debt £511,000. The colony exports, to the value of about £500,000, wool, timber pearls, horses, sheep, tortoiseshell, &c. One of the most healthy of the native industries is the cutting and sawing of timber, especially the jarrah and sandalwood, which is carried on by several joint-stock companies. There are two or three short lines of railway, one between the mining district of Northampton in the north and i 236 TASMANIA. HUX Albatroule Black Rock Bartea LS S. Black Rk Indol C Grimm Stands the port of Geraldton in Champion Bay, 351 miles long. Perth is also con- nected by railway with its port of Fremantle. A project is under considera- tion for an extension of this line to Albany in King George's Sound, on the land grant system. The means of intercommunication, however, in Western Australia are as yet in a very backward state, nearly all the traffic being by sea along the coast. The chief want of the colony is population, and until a stream of immigration sets in, as doubtless will be the case when the great natural resources of the territory are made known to the world, there is very little hope of Western Australia emerging from the obscurity to which it has hitherto been doomed. Rasthart West P! Blas y Ahok Ordnance TASMANIA. Seado con 42 TASMANIA, originally Van Diemen's Land,-a name which was changed when the colony “purged its long-abused sight” and cast off the slough of its penal state—the smallest, but not the least attractive, of the Australian colonies, next demands our attention. The passenger by the Orient steamer reaches it vià Melbourne, from which port there is frequent and regular communica- tion with Hobart and Launceston, the two chief towns of the island. Originally discovered by the famous Dutch navigator, Abel Tasman, in 1642, it was named by him Van Diemen's Land in compliment to his patron and father-in-law, Anthony Van Diemen, then Governor-General of the Dutch possessions in the East Indies. As other parts of the Australian coast, it was frequently visited by the French, with, there is reason to believe, some idea of settlement. Before they could make up their minds Lieutenant Bowen was de- spatched from Sydney to take possession of the island, and landed here with a few convicts in August, 1803. The following year the site of the new settlement was fixed, with admirable judgment, at the head of the noble estuary of the Derwent, on the spot since called Hobart Town, a name which was shortened on the ist of January 1881, to Hobart-one of the most beautifully located cities in the world, with a harbour vying with that of Sydney for safety, convenience, and spaciousness. As a penal settlement the progress of Van Diemen's Land was slow, disturbed by many domestic troubles, arising out of the character of the settlers, and the stern rule to which they were subject, and distracted by famines, bushrangers, and an unusually ferocious and untamable kind of aborigines. In 1807 there was a general failure of crops. Corn was sold at £4 a bushel, and 13 F I C 0 a e с a: р is lcd th th sc a VE 0 be c it T J ol at TASMANIA. 239 wooded, as well as better watered, than the colonies on the mainland. The Derwent, opening into the Southern Ocean, is a noble stream, whose banks from Hobart to New Norfolk recall the scenery of the English lakes. This is now the habitat of the salmon (doubtful) and salmon-trout, whose introduction into southern waters has been the greatest feat of acclimatisation yet attempted. The common brown trout (Salmo fario) is also naturalised in several of the Tasmanian rivers, and attains to proportions which make it scarcely recognisable by the English angler-fish up to seventeen and eighteen pounds having been caught in the Esk and its tributaries. The greater part of the open country in the interior, rising into mountains 5,000 feet high, is better fitted for pasture than for tillage. It is here, among the recesses of Ben Lomond (15,010 feet high), that the unique marsupial feline, the native tiger (Dasyurus maculatus), is still to be found, besides the hyæna (Thylaccius cynocephalus), and that strange creature, the native devil (Sarcophilus ursinus). In spite of these formidable enemies, now rare, and shortly to be extinct, sheep flourish exceedingly, there being nearly 2,000,000 of them in the island, yielding a wool of which some brands fetch the highest prices in the market. Next to wool, minerals are the chief export of the island, at the head of which is tin, very large deposits of which metal having been lately dis- covered in the Mount Bischoff district in the west. In 1883 the total export of tin was reckoned at £376,446. The yield of gold is steadily on the increase, the principal auriferous region being in the north. In 1881 the quantity raised from alluvial and from quartz was 57,000 ounces. Galena and silver lead ore is found in several places, and coal also, chiefly of the anthracite kind. This enumeration of the leading natural resources of Tasmania proves it to be at least as rich as its neighbours, and if the progress of the colony hitherto has been slow, it is chiefly due to the accidents which have favoured the larger colonies, especially the gold discoveries in New South Wales and Victoria. That at present the commercial condition of the island is a healthy one is proved by the state of the finances. The revenue in 1883-4 was £562,189, which was in excess of that in any previous year, giving a surplus of £29,000 over the expenditure. The public debt is now £2,355,000, incurred, as in the other colonies, chiefly on account of railways and public works. The exports in 1883 amounted to £1,587,389. The govern- ment is on the usual basis of a bi-cameral legislature—the Upper House being elected on a more restricted franchise. In politics there is much quietude, and life generally is more uneventful, more placid, and more respectable, perhaps more dull, in this beautiful island than in any other part of Australia. 10 42 unlike as those of any two countries can be, separated by more than a thousand NEW ZEALAND. NEW ZEALAND. HOUGH included in the general term Australasia, the islands of New d do not belong in any sense to the Australian system, from which they are her different in natural character, bearing to the Australian colonies none political affinity. Although a direct line of steamers between England ese islands has been recently started, the high road to New Zealand from is still, and perhaps will for many years continue to be, by way of Mel- and Sydney, and there are many reasons why passengers should prefer hich if it is the longer, is by far the more attractive route. The frequent and te intercourse which is maintained between New Zealand and Australia Ily brings that colony within the range of the countries served by the Orient ers, even though the nearest New Zealand port is a thousand miles beyond erminus. By far the larger portion of the traffic of New Zealand with the er-country is carried on by the Eastern route, which has this further interest nglishmen that every station and resting-place on it by sea is either British der British influence. New Zealand, the antipodes of Great Britain and its sue in the southern hemisphere, is in fact the last link in the long chain of which stretches across half the globe, either by the South Atlantic or gh the Mediterranean and the Suez Canal. Few who travel for health or =creation, having reached Melbourne or Sydney in their outward course, will eterred from visiting that “ Brighter Britain” now rising into greatness in Southern seas. Of the Australian colonies it may be said that they are in their general features- -Facies non omnibus una Nec diversa tamen, qualem decet esse sororum." Zealand, however, is essentially different. It has nothing in common with stralia, except its political constitution and its society, in which of course both English-New Zealand perhaps even more so than the others. The lands are les of deep sea. The fauna and flora are distinct, and the forms which nature sumes are strikingly dissimilar. In New Zealand there is a total absence those bizarre and monstrous growths which distinguish the animal and Bhiga: Georges Charles Doubtful s. Dagyis som raised SI Resolution I. Pusky sod Proridas palkyller Prva a Windsor Pripo Salandel. 11 STEVABDEH Sed 168 170° 172 174 464 C. Farewell sua 0,K SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND. Heaphy R. c. Jackson Argh erlotte Manal! Karamea R. Motuda KARAMEA BIGHT 1 ringe Mokihinni Ngakuwaha Condy. Tepuru Westport Nie al LLINGTON R. P A C I F I Pad Nimiro HOKITIKA borrors of CITY Clitton Watanda & R. West Wanganui Inlet grino Ferhill Wairak. Rewards FAREBOROUGH Cumpbell Washburton RY Ann SRPENINSULA COY polyneu. 7" & Bay Troodland м!Ванаса Golden Bay Callingwood Parapara Sara P Kapiti Motort sconi NWOOD 9 nomli TASMÁN BOD BY ca UbeMP $08 Rann Scale of English Miles. AV Ridbods SP ek die Palliser LP Lewis 38 DO 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Bay BLENHEIM Heights in English Feet. C. Foulwind Railways shewn thus Addison pho, саrbоите Charleston We con 12 Reallong Brighton frankin Carence R. Tigoo Cobden Erdhaus (Kaikoura Greymouth na Terematau R Whiteomby Bewer comway R.. Kunghrudi Smer Non R. Ross նկարծ hoiot Bedley Wiigikariarum R. Sis LY Table I. Amberley Waipara R. Seithridd Ashley R. Hungaro PEGASL'S BAY Kalapore, Waimakarin R. 4.19 THE CHRISTCHURCH & R. Aror halletons Lyttelton Th& Port Seyns Corte Banks Peninsula Me STATE ZE Hoxect Fukt Carlame DRIL 25 mg Tatoko karte 22 tanamad BOGO MEang sila Word Sound wen Glastone Trackdum. WALALA TE My 2 Bandit Ida Duatroon pena dra ch Halsteid torty பெண்பாற rouwel Yarily Daknockburn ocidos Terbet Te..72 Ang Alexandra Auront Roxburglar Breaksex S Vinip ARI Resolution Luthier 1. rupere puy DIN Inskra O Evans darand Taitouch 46 LO 46 Wahid de Gorlako tunidenca LCO Winton Clintori Otas Ynve Trees Foers Yew Asturry Carpbeltown Solanda I. The Blu Codfish I. Mason Buy 2 STEWARTUISLAND Actrecorre P. Okarito Mals Weheka R. Bruce B Weldon Awarua (Haast) R. Jackson o Cascade P. Akaroa Wbrewa Aforthbridge Harb? CA Opihi R. Tiinami Rekaia R. 2. Ellesmere Rimgitata R. Big Bar Martin & Up BIGHT Telanpo Pareora R Waihox R. Bligha sa Georges & Town Waitaki R. SOamaru okakuuni R. Hampden Chades petes Doubtful sa Daggs sa RES Ihol TAIPORT Moeniki Bus Shng P! Palmeraton Tewkesbury Waikouaiti CE A markerit Port Chalmers (oragio fartian Wholes La obra Sincent rytown thull X- R. Taieri uya phon Tokomniriro R N Ilutha Palky Inlet ovation bandet Windsor Riverton aitangata Big oven haren & R. Caitlin Partupo Tewaewae B. Oropulai Long haikawa & Rir. P. oppuke Toitoes Bay STRAIT Pegasus P Soach Cape 168' Long'. E of Greenwich 170 172 174 240 C. Maria a Dienas 36 38 .. 1 40 C. Fam Ba Culling Long Marth 152 RAY or Hen & Chickens ELLINGTON & Port Nicholson TRAIT Cape Parengareaga I. taria van Diemen 174 176 178° Dubdless. B. Abipara B vagyonui Wizararoa ISLANDS sari Reef P. C. Brett Rugseli NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND. State Bawawa Hokiana Whangaruru B. Poor Knights Tutukaka H: Makgarei SANGA на Vonganui Bar 3046 SILANGA Barten Mokohinau 1! 36 NE Yangawa Ljus GULF 436 G Barrier I. Omakonodagra Mariana Kaipara Harb. Shawan HAURART Colle Curier I. О CE A N Pildilen gute auditoto I. Mergay l* nepali pat piercury B. Waiheki Con Rirerkelo Waitehala EDEN COY & AUCKLAND Ohoved Manakan Hard 1948 Alderman Garaguayler Shorthand KUUKAU Siveloek RAY OF PLENTE Runway Tauranga Harb. akce ticks Bay Omaio MHR 0 Richmond Wala 38 TLLES Nayor I. Wakato RS & Port tikati Whakari Vol. Kapiapia I. White D Motiti Ngaruawahia or weniger OL Whangarox H: 3 niton Taurang Raghu cimbrado Gannet I., 2 TAURAG Aoter Kawhia Hart (Rob DIR chudai Marakopa R. Fongicole Leatalog Ongeabraknot Spro w Whaite MA AR East Cape Waiapu R. ERDEM! open Bay Oliwa R. 38.30 38 VE Sinto 13 NUR Tolago Bay C I F 1 Mokau R. NORTA TARANART BIGAT А с I P AY Pukeruheds Raleigh zoo T Watoare Mana NEW PLYMOOTTE Minorang Oakuna poverty Bay Ariel Rocks Strena Р А humanara Raon Clyde lokino Lato Tongarina Minuary 1100 Inglows Erihondrol. Wairoa C. Egmont Mania Table Cape Mahia Peninsula Pordand I. HAWKE BAY R Opunakila 4 rathi SOUTK TARANAKT BIGHT Carlyle HAWKE SP'atea 3 Whe NAPIER receive C. Kidnapper Vrlocke M Manytahi THUNS fiautpdo 401 GYTIKEL curton 40 dipewa takaan Waip taurau wa YAWA «ՔԱՑան-185 Blackhead Porongahau & Riv C. Turnagain QUO.TEL Wanganyi Riv. & Wregaehn I Rangitikai Rangitikei R. Manawatu R. Paxton Ohau Otaki Kapiti C. Farewell used Inlet Polperster MtBawah Golden Bay Collingwody Parapara Separation PS Mohon SCOLIN Whop les aconda, TASNAN BAY Motuka "Burnize her Pargaoto 12 5 Ohanga R. auttletown Castle pt nhareama R. Scale of English Miles c. Jackson Curen (yarloue Manat Sorund 10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Hawx Cheap Flat P. ATRARS risc SEISO Malam Nuda ton Durata Fliser Heights in English Feet Railvays shewn thus- Pahana R. doadv. icuris Bay alignrangi *C. Palliser BANHEIN 174 Long. E. of Greenwich 176 178° NEW ZEALAND. 243 large an area, and of the native wars, which have done so much to thwart her We need not follow the troublous history of the colony through its early stages. Unhappily that amalgamation of the races which at one time seemed likely to come about was frustated through faults on one side and the other—faults chiefly of ignorance on the side of England, arising out of an over-solicitude to protect the natives, always sufficiently well able to protect themselves. After several campaigns, carried on with but little accession of glory to English soldiers, the long dispute between the white settler and the Maori, arising out of questions of land, was brought to a close when finally the conduct of native affairs was handed over from the Crown to the colony. The peace which has reigned for some years past between the colonists and the Maories is not likely to be again disturbed. The great and rapid increase of the white population and the decrease in the number of the natives has solved in the most natural way a question which at one time threatened the very existence of New Zealand as a dependency of the British Empire. In the fact that by the last census the European people inhabiting these islands exceeded 500,000, while the Maories numbered only 44,000, we have the best assurance that the further development of the colony is not likely to be arrested. The native difficulty has indeed solved itself, helped by the wise and patient firmness of the Government, which has for some years past pursued the policy of leaving the Maories, or such of them as hanker after independence, severely to themselves. Those Maories who choose to claim them may acquire all the rights and privileges of British citizens, on terms of perfect equality with white men. Besides two special representatives of their own in the Upper House of the Legislature and four in the Lower, the Maories, as ratepayers, have the same franchise as Europeans. same franchise as Europeans. ' In 1879, there were 6,686 natives on the electoral roll. Economical, Political, and Social Condition.—New Zealand has of late years taken rapid strides in the development of her resources. In population she now ranks as third largest of the Australian colonies, coming after and increasing faster than New South Wales. Though more heavily burdened in the race than any of her sisters, in consequence of the peculiar circumstances of her growth, of her natural difficulties through the population being scattered over so progress, and incurred for which have left behind a painful legacy in the shape of a debt military expenses—a charge to which no other colony has been R2 NEW ZEALAND. 245 products of New Zealand are to be included all the fruits and flowers of England, besides many that are too tender for the British climate. Among the animals the indigenous fish play a prominent part, being more numerous and generally of finer flavour than those of the Australian seas, while the rivers are better adapted than those of Australia for the reception of salmon and trout. The hapuka, a species of cod, abounds off all the headlands, besides schappers, ling-fish, butter-fish, the halibut, the dorey, the flounder, mackerel, and pilchards. Oysters are found on every rock at low water, equal in flavour to natives, and crustaceans of superior character and of varied forms. Of acclimatised animals there are pheasants, partridges, and hares, the first so abundant in some parts of the northern island as to be a nuisance to the farmers. English song-birds have been also introduced, and thrive as well as everything English in this more genial Britain, the blackbird, the thrush, and the lark mingling their notes with the tui, the kakariki, a native parakeet, and the bell-bird. Of mineral treasures, besides gold, in which the country is perhaps as rich as any other in the world, having produced already some 10,000,000 ounces, of the value of £ 38,500,000, there is copper, of which several rich deposits have been found in various parts, and coal, which is of the finest quality and in great abundance, beside almost every other metal or stone which is used in the arts, including black lead, and statuary marble. Political and Social Condition.—On this head we need say no more than that New Zealand is a's least on a par with her neighbours, politically and socially. All her institutions are liberally supported, and there is, perhaps, even a more active spirit of citizenship in the colony, arising from its being more specially regarded as a settled home by the residents than is Australia. The jealousies in the early years of the settlement between island and island and province and province have been in a great measure abated, and there is more of a national tone awakened in the community. The abolition of the Provincial Councils in 1875, with their cumbrous system of administration through local Superintendents, has been followed by the best results, and one main cause of internal trouble has been removed. The public works are being prosecuted with great vigour, the development of the national railways at a rate unsurpassed in any other British colony. In the North were open for traffic in March, 1882, 458 miles of railway, and in Island 875 miles, the total expenditure on which has been nearly - 1 especially being Island there the Middle 245 OCEANIA. £10,000,000 sterling. The returns are estimated already to be equal to £3 75. 3d. per cent. on the cost of construction. Owing to the peculiar nature of the country, the difficulties in the construction are greater than in Australia, while the service is more expensive from the great number of short lines and the various kinds of traffic. Still, considering the obstacles which have been overcome, there is no part of the world which has advanced so rapidly in the construction of railways, and where the benefits reaped have been so marked as in New Zealand. And it must be always understood that a very important means of inter-communication, seeing that all the principal towns are on the coast, is by sea. There are several local steamship companies whose vessels run at frequent intervals from north to south, along either side of the islands. In conclusion, we must say, to the credit of New Zealand, that there is no colony which pursues so active and enlightened a policy in regard to the supply of that which is the chief article of need in a young country, namely, population. The number of immigrants in the year 1881 was 9,688. Male adults nominated by persons resident in the colony have to pay $5 a head towards the expenses of their passage-money. Single women have a free passage. The population of the colony has of late years been greatly increased by the facilities afforded to immigrants, for whom there is an increasing demand, and perhaps for working men even a better opening than in Australia. OCEANIA. > Fiji.—This account of the colonies of Australasia would not be complete without some notice of the new possessions which Great Britain has acquired, or is about to acquire, in the South Pacific, which, though hardly colonies proper, are likely to be of great value in the future as outposts of the Empire, and as centres of British civilisation. The Fijian group, including, with great and small, over 250 islands, is one of the latest of England's acquisitions. They were first offered to the British Government by King Thakombau in 1859, but declined, and it was not until 1875, when the offer was for the third time made, that it was accepted. They now form a Crown Colony, subject to the direct rule of Downing Street, and have been administered with great success on the novel principle of maintaining the chiefs in their tribal authority, which is enforced by law. The islands lie between 15° and 22° south latitude, NEW ZEALAND. 246 MITRE PEAK being from mile Fiji) 5,001 poss seat tropi coffc imp heal peri 3,51 and thou and grea int intr nati cal isla kin pro abc has froi COC exy rev Sui to 1 of the suf OCEANIA. 247 being scattered over an arca of ocean 300 miles from east to west, and 200 from north to south. The total extent of territory is about 8,000 square miles, or nearly 5,000,000 of acres. The largest island, called Viti Levu (big Flji), is about a hundred miles long by forty broad. It contains mountains 5,000 feet high, and though not equal to some others of the group in fertility, possesses a splendid harbour, Suva, to which has been lately transferred the seat of government from Levuka. The islands are rich in every kind of tropical produce, the principal articles of cultivation being cotton, sugar, and coffee. Cocoa-nuts occupy 16,350 acres, and form with the product copra an important article of commerce. The climate is, for the tropics, remarkably healthy and agrecable, the fierce rays of the sun being tempered by the perpetual trade winds. The white population at the end of 1883 amounted to 3,513, the natives at the same date being estimated at 115,635, besides half-castes and Polynesian labourers. The Fijians are a well-made, good-looking race, and though an unflattering report has been given of their moral habits, they are peaceful and tolerably industrious. Once inveterate cannibals, they have now for the greater part become converts to Christianity, and are of an exemplary severity in the performance of their religious functions. The system of administration introduced by Sir Arthur Gordon, the first Governor, while it protects the natives very carefully in all their rights, feelings, and customs, is perhaps not calculated to develop the colony as a British possession. However, the islands continue to have much attraction for European settlers of a certain kind, and a good deal of capital has been laid out in the growth of the staple products, cotton, sugar, and coffee. Of the first there were exported in 1881 about 300 tons, valued at £35,100. Recently the attention of the planters has been turned rather to the other two, the export of sugar having increased from 96 tons in 1875 to 684 tons in 1881. Copra, the desiccated kernel of the cocoa-nut, is still however the principal article ci commerce in Fiji, the quantity exported in 1881 having been 7,531 tons, of the value of £87,048. The total revenue of the growth in 1880 was £80,678. Levuka is the largest port, but Suva is now the capital, and the seat of government. Three hundred miles to the north-west, not belonging to the Fijis proper, is the little volcanic island of Rotumah, which was attached to the colony, in response to a petition of the native chiefs, in 1880. It is fertile and well cultivated, the inhabitants being superior to the Fijians in moral character and in capacity for civilisation, 248 OCEANIA. These islands, however, cannot be regarded as a colony in the sense that New Zealand and Tasmania are colonies, and can never become the home of a British race. New Guinea.-The latest of our acquisitions in the southern hemisphere is that territory somewhat vaguely indicated as the southern coast of the great island of New Guinea, up to the point claimed by the Dutch. The circumstances under which the Imperial authorities have been committed to this new extension of the British domain are somewhat peculiar, though not entirely without parallel in the annals of colonisation. For some years past projects for the formation of a settlement in that portion of New Guinea which is not claimed by the Dutch, namely the eastern half, from the meridian of 141°, have been familiar to the Australian public. In 1864 a company was formed in Sydney with that object, but failing to obtain the sanction of the Imperial Government, the scheme came to nothing. In 1872 a party of miners and other adventurers started to “prospect” the island for gold, but their vessel, the Maria, was wrecked on the Barrier Reef, and the survivors brought back to Sydney by Captain Moresby in H.M.S. Basilisk. In 1874 Sir Henry Parkes, the Colonial Secretary of New South Wales, proposed to found a British colony on the island, but Lord Carnarvon did not approve of the project. The year following a large meeting of merchants and traders was held in Sydney, at which resolutions were passed in favour of annexation. A New Guinea Association was formed in London, under the auspices of Lieut. Armit, which being discountenanced by the Imperial Govern- ment, fell through, an intimation however being conveyed to the Australian Governments through the Secretary of State that the Home authorities might be inclined to take a favourable view of any future scheme of settlement on thg island provided the colonies would contribute to the expenses. In 1878 New Guinea was again visited by gold prospecting parties, who came back with an unfavourable report of its auriferous capabilities. English missionaries have for some years past had establishments in the eastern portion of the island, with Port Moresby as the centre of their operations. Their report of the character of the coast natives is more favourable that than which had been given by the earlier navigators. So far as English rights to the eastern portion of New Guinea are concerned as against any other European nation, they seem to have been secured as early as 1846, when Captain Yule, of H.M.S. Bramble, took possession of the southern coast in the name of Her Majesty. The prospect of a foreign ii С C - an EI be in OCEANIA. 249 maritime power obtaining a footing in this part of the island of New Guinea, which is only some seventy or eighty miles distant from the most northern point of Australia, and of thus holding the keys of the road through Torres Straits, is of course one which the Australian colonies could not be expected to regard with complacency. The process by which Great Britain has finally acquired an interest more or less definite in New Guinea is one which can scarcely be regarded as creditable to the national diplomacy, or calculated to strengthen the bonds of union between England and her colonies in Australasia. This is a subject, however, of which it scarcely falls within our province to speak. The circumstances under which, after leading the Australian colonies to believe that New Guinea, or at least that portion of it not belonging to Holland, had been safeguarded against any European power, the Imperial Government have allowed the northern sea-board to fall into the hands of Germany, will be familiar to most Englishmen, and will certainly never be forgotten by the Australia:s. Hw much has been retained, and by what tenure it is to be he'd, are points in which there is yet so much uncertainty that it is scarcely possible to speak of the value of our new acquisition. What is certain only is that, after much hesitation and delay, the British Government have finally made up their minds that the sea-board of New Guinea, from the 141st degree of E. Longitude eastward, shall be not merely under English protection, but annexed to the empire. At first, by some strange omission or excess of timidity, only the main land on the south coast was claimed, but since then, owing to the remonstrances of the Colonial agents and the strong feeling roused in Australia, the Imperial Government have been induced to include the Louisade and the D'Entrecasteux groups, together with various outlying islands and capes, within their new dominion. For the present, therefore, it may be said that England has secured for herself not only that side of the New Guinea coast which most nearly borders on Australia, but the most valuable and important portion of the island. How much farther the English dominion in Occania is to be carried, and what steps are to be taken, in conformity with the universal sentiment of the Australian colonists, to protect the British nationality and the British power in the South Seas against the encroachments of other European nations, are matters on which we need not speculate. There has been made, however, a very material addition to the possessions of Great Britain in the Southern Hemisphere. From the newly-awakened spirit of German LIFE IN THE COLONIES. 253 is Her "SS ler ed id bir ůr 10 he at ct re a, 10 in al limited, there are no people who have a keener sense of enjoying themselves than Australians. The sports are mainly those of the old country, which are pursued, as we have seen to our mortification in the case of cricket, with great zeal and success. The climate is favourable to every kind of outdoor exercise, and there is no portion of the year in which healthful recreation need be suspended. As for riding, it is too common, and in the bush too necessary, to be classed as an amusement. There is hunting of the kangaroo by foxhounds in the neighbourhood of the chief capitals, and the more legitimate and exciting sport which is carried on in the bush with kangaroo- dogs. Hares having been introduced and having thriven amazingly, coursing is now added to the national pastimes. Horse-racing is pursued with great zest, the “Melbourne Cup” being the local equivalent for the Derby. Contrary to the general belief in this country, there is plenty of game of all kinds in Australia, not to speak of the imported animals. Some of these last had better have remained at home, the rabbit, for one, having become a greater curse than that other misguided new-comer, the Scotch thistle. In the way of large game there is the ever-present kangaroo, which in some parts of the country has greatly increased under civilisation, owing to the decline of his two great natural enemies, the black man and the wild dog. Among birds there is the bustard or wild turkey, perhaps the noblest of the feathered kind from a gastronomic point of view, not uncommonly turning the scale at 30 lbs. Wild swans, ducks, and water-fowl of many species abound in the swamps and inland lakes, and are now carefully protected in most of the colonies during the breeding season. There are at least three kinds of indigenous quail in the south, of which one is nearly as large as a partridge. a partridge. The snipe-shooting in some districts is of high excellence—the bird itself being superior in size and flavour to the snipe of commerce. Then there are pigeons, both ground and arboreal, the wonga-wonga being one of the grandest of its kind, besides parrots and parrakeets innumerable,-all good for the pot if not for sport. Nor is the angler without scope for his art in southern waters, though the finer branches of it are but little practised and the local capabilities in that way but little understood. Independent of the various kinds of fish which have been introduced from the old country, of which the trout, the perch, and the tench have been an unqualified success, the rivers swarm with local varieties, some of great merit for the table as well as for the angle. The Murray cod, which is found naturally only in the Murray fluvial system, grows to a very A3 Ty id th bo y h z It 11 le 255 e S, :11 It 3 'S le la COLLARD & COLLARD :) METAL-FRAME i ottage Piatras, ** 1 , - FROM - METAL-FRAME e of ? 50 to 150 Gns. Grands, COLLARD & COLLARD, 7-OCTAVES, FROM CHECK-ACTION, Pianoforte Manufacturers, 16, Grosvenor Street, W.; 26, Cheapside, E.C., LONDON. TRICHORD, 85 to 350 Gns. 7-OCTAVES, PATENT REPEATER TRICHORD. ACTION, COLLARD & COLLARD A 256 GET "Say Old Boy Gout Spe ecific. ,) PEYNOLDS 'REYNOLDS SPECIFIC" LOOK AT ME" BAS A World-Wide Repätation FOR OF OVER 70 YEARS. A CERTAIN CURE GOUT, RHEUMATISM SCIATICA,LUMBAGO. "REYNOLDS' SPECIFIC” Can be had of all the principal Chemists. Greatest Rheumatic Remedy in existence. Its marvellous efficacy in cases of GOUT, RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, LUMBAGO, and all NEURALGIC COMPLAINTS is proved by the INNUMERABLE TESTIMONIALS continually reaching the Proprietor, and which accompany each bottle. Dr. BREWSTER (for many years one of the leading Physicians in Paris) writes : "I have prescribed REYNOLDS' GOUT SPECIFIC in gall cases of RHEUMATIC COMPLAINTS, and found it INFALLIBLE REMEDY. I have always recommended it, and consider it a safe and INVALUABLE MEDICINE." an Sold in Bottles, 2s. 9d. and 4s. 6d., by Messrs. BARCLAY & SONS, 95, Farringdon Street, London, E.C., and all Chemists throughout the World. 257 THE Anglo-New Zealander & Australian Times. OFFICES :--30, Fleet Street, LONDON, E.C. OFFICE FOR* PATENTS, } Prepaid. OUR Publications 323, High Holborn, LONDON, Circulating Extensively in NEW SOUTH WALES, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, QUEENSLAND, VICTORIA, NEW ZEALAND, WESTERN AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA, FIJI, and among COLONISTS visiting or residing in GREAT BRITAIN ; COLONIAL MERCHANTS, SHIPPERS, CLUBS, Hotels, FARMERS' AssociaTIONS, INTENDING EMIGRANT-SETTLERS, etc., and generally throughout the British Islands. THE ANGLO-NEW ZEALANDER AND AUSTRALIAN TIMES, is unequalled as an Advertising Medium to Manufacturers, Merchants, etc., who supply, or desire to supply, the Australian Colonies with Trade and Manufactures. UNITED KINGDOM COLONIES TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION : Half-year. 6s. 6d. 78. 6d. Year. 12s. 14s. LIVERPOOL: WM. P. THOMPSON, C.E., Fell. Inst. P.A. LONDON: ALFRED J. BOULT, N.E., Fell. Inst. P.A. AGENTS FOR PROCURING Patents & REGISTERING Trade Marks IN ALL COUNTRIES. YooTelegraphic Address :-" -"BOULT,” LONDON.---- MESSRS. Pamphlet of Fees and Instructions GRATIS. (Fellows of the Institute of Patent Agents), Handbook of PATENT LAW in all Countries in Plain English, 2/6. have been re- viewed as the best and most complete of their kind by the "Engineer,” “ En- gineering,"“ Iron," "English Me- chanic," and other engineering and scientific papers. TRANSACT ALL KINDS OF BUSINESS RELATING TO BRITISH LAWS, 6d. Patents, Trade Marks, Copyrights, and Designs. Correspondence and Technical Translations in English, French, & German. TRADE MARKS LAW, 3d. SEARCHES for Novelty made. Liverpool: {W. W.P. THOMPSON & CO., 6, LORD STREET. OPPOSITIONS conducted. A2 258 STATION CENTRAL HOTEL, AB * 500 ROOMS WEST COAST (ROYAL MAIL) ROUTE, Caledonian and London and North Western Railways' CENTRAL STATION HOTEL. GLASGOW. The Hotel is under the management of the Caledonian Railway Company, and Apartments can be secured by telegraph, free of charge, on filling up the form obtainable from the officials at any of the Company's Stations. C. LORD Manager. GLASGOW & LONDON (instern hours ) 259 J. BENSON Practical Trunk and Portmanteau Makers, CO., Dress Baskets, Cabin Gladstone Bags,Ladies' Trunks, Special Sizes Hand Bags, all kinds for passengers on of Water-proof and board the Orient Line India-Rubber Goods, of Steamers, Air-tight Ladies' Capes, Coats, Tin Trunks, Solid and every article suit- Leather Trunks, able for Travellers at J. BENSON & Co.'s, 4 & 263, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, OXFORD STREET, LONDON. PRICE LIST FREE. DINNEFORD'S FLUID MAGNESIA DINNEFORD'S MAGNESIA, For over 40 years the medical profession have approved of this Pure Solution as the best remedy for Acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, Gout, and Indigestion. It is the safest aperient for delicate constitutions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. As a Cooling Drink in warm climates, and during hot seasons, Dinne- FORD's Magnesia has been found highly beneficial. DINNEFORD CO., & Pharmaceutical Chemists to the Court & Elite of the Nobility, 180, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. SOLD THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. 260 NEW + ZEALAND.:*:* enre oto frame 1. DESCRIPTION.-This Colony consists of a group of Islands, of which the two principal are called the North and South Islands, and a third, much smaller, called Stewart's Island. The whole group is over 1000 miles long, with an average breadth of 140 miles. The Coast-line extends over 3000 miles. There are, besides, some small outlying islands within the limits of the Colony, such as the Chatham Islands, the Auckland Islands, and Bounty Island. 2. LAND.-Persons desirous of obtaining information as to the Crown Lands of the Colony now open (or shortly to be opened) for sale or lease can obtain full particulars on application at the General Crown Lands Office, Wellington, or at the Offices of the several Commissioners of Crown Lands at Auckland, New Plymouth, Patea, Wellington, Napier, Nelson, Blenheim, Christchurch, Dunedin, Invercargill and Hokitika, where Plans and Maps can be inspected and obtained. The “ Crown Lands Guide,” which is published from time to time, contains full particulars as to the quantity and quality of land open for sale or leasing in different parts of the Colony, and can be obtained at all the principal booksellers throughout the Colony. Farms, improved or unimproved, may also be bought from private owners, some of whom have acquired large tracts of land at low prices in former times. 3. PRODUCTS.- According to the latest statistics there were 162,000 horses, 700,000 cattle, and 13,000,000 sheep in the colony, and the annual value of wool exported amounts to about three-and-a-half millions sterling. The Colony also produces wheat, oats, barley, hay, linseed, potatoes, tobacco, kauri gum, and all descriptions of fruit and root crops grown in England. The bays and seas surrounding teem with fish, a hundred and forty species of which are known, of which thirty-three have been found of great value as articles of food. Extensive coal beds have been found in almost every district, varying from ten to forty feet in thickness. The gold-fields have already produced above thirty-nine millions pounds' sterling worth for export. Iron mines have not yet been worked, but many varieties of iron ore, and in many cases of the purest character, are found in large quantities in many districts of the colony, a large extent of sea-coast being covered with almost pure iron sand. All English trees grow well in New Zealand, and the forest trees indigenous to the country are of the finest kind. 4. EDUCATION.-The State system of elementary education is secular, and free of all cost to pupils. There are 940 district schools, with 92,476 pupils, and 2,413 teachers. There are endowed colleges and grammar schools for the higher education of boys and of girls in all the cities and large towns. The University of New Zealand has power to confer degrees. 5. RAILWAYS.-Tourists' Excursion Tickets may be obtained on application at the Booking Offices at Auckland, Wellington, Lyttleton, Christchurch, Port Chalmers, Dunedin, Invercargill, and Blutf Railway Stations. There are nearly 1500 miles of railway open to the public. Tourists would do well to visit the Sounds of the West Coast of Otago, also the chain of Lakes that stretches North-east from Lake Manapouri in Otago to Lake Tekapo in Canterbury, then visit the glaciers of Mount Cook, and cross by the Otira Gorge from Canterbury to Westland. The boiling springs, geysers and terraces of the Auckland Hot Lake district will also well repay a visit. DIEU ES PRO3 LONDON 1884 (APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES M RH. THE PRINCESS OF WALES 1880-1881 LINCOLN BENNETT PHILADELPHIAS 1876 1884 CALCUTTA wa Sackville Street PICCADILLS LONDON OPEL 14 SA 5121031 PARIS 1878 APPOINTMENT TO BY LINCOLN.BENNETT & CO HATTERS. Co the Royal Family & Courts of Europe 1,2 & 3, SACKVILLE ST & 40,PICCADILLY LONDON.W. SYONEY MELBOURNE FF FÉLA A FEL YAM EXCOLI 1879-1889 INTERNATIONAL HEALTH EXHIBITION LONDON 1884-HORS CONCOURS M4 Tulli Liit 263 Che Westminster Palace Hotel, VICTORIA STREET, LONDON, S.W. SHEN 2 Moon 119 HE HOTEL is opposite the Abbey, and in one of the best localities of the Metropolis. It is in close proximity to the Houses of Parliament, the American Legation, &c., and is within five minutes' walk of the St. James's Park and Westminster Bridge Stations of the Metropolitan District Railway, and midway between Charing Cross and the London, Chatham and Dover Railways. The Hotel is practically fireproof;, the girders are iron and the floors concrete. It contains a spacious General Sitting Room, and Ladies' Writing Room, an elegant Coffee Room, new Smoking and Billiard Rooms, 346 Bed Rooms, &c. Also several large Rooms, well adapted for Wedding Breakfasts and Dinners, for Meetings of Public Companies, the conduct of Arbitration Cases, and for the transaction of Parliamentary Business. .. A Hydraulic Lift, constructed on the safest known principle, conveys the Guests to all the Floors. Hair Cutting and Hair Dressing Room in the Entrance Hall. TABLE D'HÔTE, FROM 6 TO 8 P.M., 5/6. Special Boarding Terms made with guests proposing to stay one week or longer period. The Hotel Omnibus will convey Visitors to or from any of the Railway Stations, and Private Carriages supplied by the hour, day or week, at fixed charges, on orders given at the General Office. A TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE WITHIN THE BUILDING. TELEPHONE No. 3070. Hy. GASCOIGNE, Manager. 265 By SpecialAppointmenta W. CHILLINGWORTH & SONS' CROWN WINES. HONI PENS DIEU - ET. MON DROIT To V. M. the King of Babaria. To H. M. the Bing of Sweden and Norway. FROM 2=CHILLINGWORTH & SON WINE MERCHANTS TO HER MAJESTY LONDON FINEST CHELLINGWORTH & SON, LONDON OW 1834 to literalajesty QUEEN KICTORIA Empress•of: India CAUTION..Whereas persons are shipping Wines to India marked with a Crown, in imitation of W. CHILLINGWORTH & SON'S Wines, which are so branded, they being the original shippers, and having the appointment (dated 1839), of Wine Merchants to Her Majesty Queen Victoria, it is expedient for the protection of purchasers of their superior Wines, to caution them to ask for W. CHILLINGWORTH & SON'S Crown Wines, and to be particular in observing that the Cases are branded with their names at full length, also on the side of the Corks, as well as the Crown on the end, and their name in full on the Seals, in accordance with this Notice. W. CEILLINGWORTH & SON, WINE MERCHANTS TO HER MAJESTY, 44, GREAT TOWER STREET, LONDON, E.C., Established 1820. 266 EDGAR CLARK & Co., WHOLESALE AND EXPORT CABINET MAKERS & UPHOLSTERERS, , 228 & 230, OLD STREET, LONDON, E.C. (2 DOORS FROM CITY ROAD). A WELL-ASSORTED STOCK ALWAYS ON HAND. SPECIAL TERMS TO SHIPPERS. GOLD MEDAL-CALCUTTA, 1884. THE FAMED The very finest WHISKY Scotland produces. 11 CIG." (Registered Trade Mark.) BLEND. EXTRA SPECIAL OLD. Extract from Dr. A. H. HASSALL'S (the Public Analyst) REPORT :- " VAUGHAN JONES'' C.I.G.' Whisky is a blend of the finest original Highland Whiskies. It is a mellow, full- bodied Whisky, of particularly rich aroma and flavour; its softness being such as is only acquired by age. The.C.I.G.' Whisky may be said to be of unusual excellence." Please apply for VAUGHAN-JONES' “C.I.G." WHISKY to Wine Merchants and Store-keepers when the "Orient" Steamers touch at Gibraltar, Naples, Port Said, Suez, Aden and Cape Town. PRICE LISTS TO COLONIAL MERCHANTS ON APPLICATION TO THE Sole Proprietor—E. VAUGHAN-JONES, London and Glasgow. 267 QUEENSLAND. ... STATISTICS 1883-4. £2,566,358 EXPENDITURE £5,777,667 EXPORTS 312,000 No. of SHEEP 4,246,141 No. of HORSES REVENUE IMPORTS POPULATION No. of CATTLE • • • £2,511,651 £4,653,880 11,183,491 236,154 Crown Lands Act of 1884. AGRICULTURAL FARMS. Agricultural Farms in proclaimed agricultural areas may be selected of not more than 1,280 acres, at a rent to be fixed by the Land Board, not being less than 3d. per acre per annum. A license is issued to the selector, who must, within five years, fence in the land, or make permanent improvements of a value equal to the cost of the fence. When the conditions of residence and improvements are fulfilled, a transferable lease for 50 years will be granted from ist January or Ist July nearest to the date of license. If lessee can prove ten years' continued residence, he will be entitled to purchase the holding at a price to be fixed by the Land Board, not being less than 20/- per acre. HOMESTEADS. In the case of an Agricultural Farm of not more than 160 acres, if the lessee proves five years' residence and an expenditure of not less than 10/- an acre on permanent improvements, he can secure the fee simple by paying such sum as shall with the rent already paid amount to 2/6 an acre. GRAZING FARMS. Grazing Farms may be selected in proclaimed districts of not more than 20,000 acres, at a rent to be fixed by the Land Board, not being less than 3d. per acre per annum. A license will be issued, and when the conditions of fencing, &c., are fulfilled, a transferable lease of 30 years will be granted. Maps of Land proclaimed open for selection as above, showing distance from railway or water carriage, price and rent per acre, quality and capabilities of land, so far as can be stated, niay be inspected at the Land Office, Brisbane, or at any of the District Land Offices. Copies of the Crown Lands Act of 1884, and all general information about the Colony can be obtained on application to The Agent-General for Queensland, 1, Westminster Chambers, Victoria Street, London, S.W. 269 11 dbu iela ol for Families may be made. ** ARMY AND NAVY HOTEL, ** VICTORIA STREET, WESTMINSTER, S.W. This Hotel, recently opened, with all modern improvements and comforts, is conveniently situated to all the Clubs, Theatres, Railway Stations, &c. The Coffee and Dining Rooms, overlooking the gardens of Christ Church, are replete with every luxury and comfort. Electric Lighting, Passenger Lift, Turkish and Swimming Baths. Telephone, Telegraphic News, &c., &c. The Smoking Room and Billiard Room, overlooking the Gardens, both lighted by the Electric Light, are admitted to be the most comfortable in London. * LADIES DRAWING ROOM, READING & RECEPTION ROOM. *** Table d'Hôte Dinner, at separate tables, from 6 to 8 p.in. 5/- per head. PIRFEOT OUISINE. * Tariff on application to the Manager, with whom Special Arrangements J. TANNER, Manager. 272 WM. A. & S. SMEE, 89, FINSBURY PAVEMENT, And MOORFIELDS, MOORGATE STATION, LONDON, E.C., > COMPLETE House, Hotel & € lub #furnishers Invite an Inspection of their Stock, which is the Largest in the City, and especially of their **NEW SPECIMEN ROOMS** Which are Furnished and Decorated in different styles, as Drawing, Dining, and Bed Rooms. ESTIMATES SUBMITTED. CATALOGUES SENT FREE UPON APPLICATION. Cabinet Factory :-KING HENRY'S WALK, BALLS POND, N. 273 ico 6 D. PETERS & CO., -MANUFACTURERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF- 111111111 Railway Carriage and other Furnishing Materials. -CARRIAGE LACES, BLINDS, Etc.- PATENT BLINDS. CURLED HORSE HAIR. PATENT CASTORS (GLASS BALL). Patentees and Manufacturers of PETERS' PATENT "CLIP" Spring Dattrass & Seat. complici The perfection of comfort, combined with and durability. Pope's Patent Lighting and Iſeating System, ADOPTED BY MOST OF THE LEADING RAILWAYS. >Sole City Depot for “LINCRUSTA WALTON," THE NEW DECORATION, * * Steam Ships, Yachts, fr., Fitted and Upholstered throughout. * * * AN INSPECTION OF THEIR SHOW ROOMS IS RESPECTFULLY INVITED. AND AT Hair Factory: BERMONDSEY, S.E. MOORGATE WORKS, MOORFIELDS, Glasgow, Manchestere fiberpool and nll. LONDON, E.Ç, (Adjoining Moorgate Street) B 274 R. MARQUIS MACKILLIGIN&CO. * Wine & Spirit Merchants, *:* 65. Fenchurch Street, London, E.C. Wite Old Scotch and Irish Whiskies THESE WHISKIES ARE SUPPLIED TO THE ORIENT, PACIFIC, AND OTHER LINES OF STEAMERS. **WINES, SPIRITS, &c. ** OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, DUTY PAID, AND IN BOND, FOR SHIPS, STORES, AND EXPORTATION. 275 South Eastern Railway. LONDON, FOLKESTONE, AND DOVER. Royal Mail and Short Sea Boutes. Via Folkestone and Boulogne, Dover and Calais, Dover and Ostend. CONTINENTAL TRAIN SERVICE. Termini in London :- Charing Cross (West End); and Cannon Street (City). PARIS and LONDON in 8 HOURS, by SPECIAL EXPRESS DAILY, SERVICES via FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE. AND BY THE MAIL TRAINS & PACKETS, via CALAIS & DOVER, IN 8 HOURS. Brussels, Cologne, Berlin, St. Petersburg, Vienna, Munich, Naples, Turin, Venice, Rome, Brindisi, Marseilles, and most of the Chief Continental Cities and Towns, with equally quick travelling. THROUGH TICKETS ISSUED AND LUGGAGE REGISTERED. THROUGH RATES FOR ORDINARY PARCELS AND MERCHANDISE. By Passenger (Grande Vitesse) Trains, under the direct sanction and control of the South Eastern and Northern of France Railway Companies. The Rates include all charges for Shipping, Landing, &c. (Duties excepted), at the respective Ports, and delivery at either end (within the usual limits).—PARCELS forwarded by this service from LONDON the afternoon are delivered the following day in PARIS, where the Customs Examinations takes place, thus avoiding any detention at Boulogne.-PARCELS are also forwarded by this route to all the Principal Towns on the Continent, and from all the Principal Towns in the North of England and Scotland, and vice versa. Special through trains for Bullion and Value Parcels to and from Paris, Belgium, Holland, &c., including all charges for Shipping, Customs, formalities, &c., are also in operation.-Rates for Insurance of Value Parcels, such as Plate, Jewellery, Deeds, &c., against Sea, and all other risks. BOOKS OF THESE TARIFFS COMPLETE ON APPLICATION. The SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY (by Special Appointment to the General Post Office) convey the MAILS FOR THE CONTINENT, INDIA, CHINA, and the COLONIES, viấ the MONT CENIS and BRINDISI. Through Tickets are issued to Passengers for the principal Cities and Towns in- BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, AUSTRIA, GERMANY, RUSSIA, ITALY, &c. Agencies: PARIS . 4, Boulevard des Italiens. BOULOGNE .. Quai Chanzy, BRUSSELS.. 46, Montaque de la Cour. Chemin de Fer du Nord. COLOGNE 1, Friederica) Wilhelm Str. OSTEND 101, Rue .St. Georges. CALAIS B2 2-6 Lontong South Western Mailway COMPANY. THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN LONDON & PLYMOUTH, The only route between Plymouth, Portsmouth and Southampton, and the South West and South Coasts. The London and South Western Railway is in direct communication from Plymouth to all parts of Great Britain, and is the shortest and most direct route to London. The Company's Station in Plymouth is the “North Road Station," about 15 minutes from Millbay Pier, where all ocean passengers are landed. Express "South Western” Trains run from the North Road Station to Exeter, Yeovil, Salisbury, Portsmouth, Southampton, London, and all parts of the Country. Every information as to the Train Service, Farcs, &c., can be had on application to- Mr. F. P. WHARTON, at the Central Ofices, Bank of England Place, Plymouth. REDUCED FIRES For ocean passengers from Plymouth for London, can be obtained at that Office, and also at the North Road Station. WATERLOO STATION, LONDON. CHAS. SCOTTER, General Manager. 280 The Eastern Telegraph Company, Limited, MO IN CONNECTION WITH THE Eastern Extension (Australasia and China); Brazilian Submarine; and Eastern and South African Telegraph Companies. By DIRECT TRIPLICATE CABLES to Malta, Egypt, and Aden. By DIRECT DUPLICATE CABLE ROUTES to Spain, Portugal, Gibraltar, Madeira, St. Vincent, Brazil. Suakim, Perim, India, Penang, Malacca, Singapore, Java, Australia. Bankok, Cambodia, Saigon, Tonquin, Hainan, China. By SINGLE CABLES to Manila, New Zealand, Tasmania, Zanzibar, Mozambique, Delagoa Bay, and Natal for Cape of Good Hope. Also to Peru, Chili, and South America. Telegrams should be sent from the Company's Stations- 60 - hores London–11, Old Broad Street, E.C.; 8, Leadenhall Street, E.C. ; 3, Great Tower Street ; and 4, Parliament Street, S.W. MANCHESTER—20, Brown Street. LIVERPOOLH6, Exchange Buildings. GLASGOW—6, Royal Bank Place. COMPANY'S LEVANT SYSTEM: Odessa, Constantinople, Dardanelles, Tenedos, Salonica, Smyrna, Chio, Syra, Candia, Rettimo, Canea, Sitia, Rhodes, TRIESTE, OTRANTO to CORFU, Zante, Patras, Corinth, ATHENS, Cephalonia, Santa Maura, Tinos, Andros, and all the Grecian Islands, CYPRUS. The Company's Cables are worked by Muirhead's DUPLEX principle upon all its Main Sections. On sending Telegrams from Postal Stations care should be taken to mark them "VIA EASTERN," these words being signalled gratuitously by the Postal authorities. Alaps and Books of Forms and Tariffs forwarded, post free on application at the Company's Chief Offices, as above, or at 28, RUE CAUMARTIN, PARIS; and 2, BOULEVARD DU MUY, MARSEILLES. (By Order) 66, OLD BROAD STREET, E.C. GEORGE DRAPER, Secretarn. 282 The European European Stail, ESTABLISHED 1813. (SEVEN DISTINCT PAPERS UNDER THIS TITLE.) Published in ENGLISH, FRENCH, and SPANISH, READ IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD AND THE BEST MEDIUM FOR ADVERTISERS. Special supplements, dealing with matters of interest to the Importer and Consumer are published with each of the seven papers. All information in respect of Tariff for Advertisements and other matters to be obtained on application to the MANAGER. During 1886, SPECIAL REPORTS of the COLONIAL & INDIAN EXHIBITION will be Published in these Journals. 161, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, LONDON, E.C. Postal Orders and Cheques to be made payable to R. SCOTT, and crossed MARTIN & Co. CHEAP RETURN TICKETS ARE ISSUED BY THE Orient Line Steamers, From LONDON to NAPLES, PORT SAID and SUEZ direct, and through Tickets, including Railway Fare, from ISMAILIA to CAIRO and ALEXANDRIA. Fortnightly Sailings–Outwards and Homewards." Managers- F. GREEN & Co., ANDERSON, ANDERSON & Co., Fenchurch Avenue, LONDON, E.C. le 27 GRAND HOTEL, Le Grand Hotel (PANORAMA DE NAPLES.] NAPLES. NAPOLI. 99 First-class and most comfortable Hotel, situated in the finest and most select part of Naples, with magnificent views of the Town, Vesuvius, and the Bay. Hydraulic lift. ALFRED HAUSER, Proprietor. > LOG Hotels kept by the family Hauser :- LUCERNE, SwitzerLAND HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF 400 Beds. LUZERNERHOF 200 MOUNT RIGHI Rigi-SCHEIDECK 280 Berne, SCHWEIZERHOF 120 BATH OF GURNIGEL 560 Bath Of WEISSENBURG 450 OBERLAND, Switzerland Hotel GIESSBACH 400 GRAND HOTEL MÜRREN 350 Coire, SwitzERLAND HOTEL STEINBOCK 150 OSPEDALETTI, ITALY HOTEL DE LA REINE 200 SPEZIA, GRAND Hotel, SPEZIA 100 Naples, GRAND HOTEL 200 1 . 15 19 288 NAPLES.** HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE, RIVIERA DI CHIA JA. FIRST-CLASS OLD-ESTABLISHED HOUSE, SITUATED ON THE VILLA NAZIONALE, WITH A FINE SOUTHERN ASPECT. VIEW OF THE BAY AND POSILIPO. ** MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH FAMILIES ** SERINO WATER ONLY USED. Directed by the Proprietor, G. CAVALLI. Hotel Royal, Naples, CAPRANI, SITUATED ON THE NEW EMBANKMENT. First Modern Hotel established here, (1876.). OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND, Attendance, etc., specially adapted to the requirements of Overland Travellers to and from the far East, Manager and Servants speaking the principal languages. This House is patronised by the élite of society for health, scenery, comfort and elegance. ENGLISH SANITARY APPLIANCES, BATHROOMS, Etc. Al Telegraphic Address—“CAPRANI, NAPLES.” 294 MACBRAIR, OSBORN & Co., 32, MARKET STREET, SYDNEY, 35, Queen Street, Melbourne. | Grenfell Street, Adelaide. l Queen Street, Brisbane. 16, PHILPOT LANE, LONDON, E.C. Steel, Hardware & Machinery Merchants 1 -AND COMMISSION AGENTS. SOLE AUSTRALIAN AGENTS FOR Engelbert's Lubricator, The most efficient and economical Lubricant for Cylinders, Valves, Heavy Bearings and high-speed Machinery. Does not corrode, gum or clog. Leaves no deposit in Cylinders, Boilers or Condenser Tubes, therefore invaluble for Marine Engines. SAMUEL OSBORN & Co.'s Steel Files, Circular, Vertical and Cross-cut Saws, Machine Knives, Crucible Steel Colliery Skip and Waggon Wheels, Pedestals, Axles, Barrow Wheels and all kinds of Steel Castings and Forgings. Musket's Special Lathe and Planing Machine Tool Steel (does not require hardening). THE HARDY PATENT PICK Co. Picks, Shovels, Forks, Hand Rock and Coal Boring Machines. Importers and Manufacturers’ Agents for Earthenware, Glass and China. MANUFACTURERS OF Superior Double and Single Leather Belting, Link Belting, Suction and Delivery Hose. 295 Trettes TUTTUL PHOTOGRAPHIC TAKE ELEVATOR LARGESTE ESTABLISHMENT IN AUSTRALASIA ASCEND IN ELEVATOR CORNER OF GEORGE & MARKET STREETS, SYDNEY. PORTRAITS AND ENLARGEMENTS, MINIATURE,IVORY PORCELAIN AND LOCKET PAINTINGS. OUR BEAUTIFUL SUN PEARLS A SPECIALITY. JOHN WOODS & Calm, SVEREY. 296 CONQUEROR” TOBACCO WORKS, SY DNE Y. DIXSON & SONS.—The largest and most complete Tobacco Works in the Southern Hemisphere. AMERICAN LEAF.of the total New South Wales imports, D. & S. consume the Bulk. More “Conqueror” Tobacco is smoked than any other Brand in Australia. YANKEE DOODLE (TAG or TWISTS). NAIL ROD. CONQUEROR (TAG or TWISTS). CHAMPION. SIR ROGER ... (NAVY TWIST). AROMATIC. DIXSON AND SONS, CONQUEROR TOBACCO WORKS, HYDE PARK, SYDNEY. EADERS of this Book are respectfully requested to . Our Establishment is the leading one in Sydney for FIRST-CLASS BOOTS & SHOES (In LADIES', GENTLEMEN'S and CHILDREN'S). The Best Quality only kept in stock. We guarantee Style, Fit and a Good Article at a Moderate Price. CALLAGHAN & SON, Depôt for BOOTS and SHOES of Best Quality at Moderate Prices, 395, GEORGE STREET (Only), Opposite The Royal Hotel, SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES. 298 The Queensland Steam Shipping Co., Ltd. Q S S. S. ce FLEET, S.S. Qaronoa. s.s. Warrego. S.S. Archer. s.s. Corea. s.s. Waldora. S.S. Günga. s.s. Polly s.s. Haldora. s.s. Mruganini. Steamers leave Brisbane for Sydney every Friday. Steamers leave Brisbane for Cooktown, viên intermediate ports, every Saturday. Steamers leave Brisbane for Mackay, viâ ports, every week. Steamers leave Brisbane for Normanton every third Saturday. Steamers leave Townsville for Geraldton, viâ ports, every Wednesday: Steamers leave Sydney for Normanton ports, without transhipment, every month. For Fares, Dates of Sailing, &c., see daily papers. Any inforination desired may be had on application to- PARBURY, LAMB & Co., Managing Agents, BRISBANE. 299 THE OLDEST-ESTABLISHED IRONMONGERY BUSINESS IN QUEENSLAND. FOSTER & KELK, Wholesale, Retail, and Furnishing Ironmongers, 163 & 165, QUEEN STREET, BRISBANE. Through our Agencies in London, Wolverhampton, Sheffield, Glasgow, Paris, Berlin and New York, we are in constant receipt of Goods of the best quality from the leading Manufacturers. CHINA AND GLASS-WARE- EVERYTHING USEFUL, NEW, AND BEAUTIFUL IN THE TRADE. Sole Agents for- The Worcester Royal Porcelain Co., Limited ; Doulton and Watts, Lambeth and Burslem ; The Baccarat Glass Co., Paris; Christofle and Co., Paris. Workshops : -EDWARD STREET; Where we have a competent Staff of Workmen for Manufacturing and Repair3, " THE BRISBANE COURIER," The only Daily Morning Newspaper. Has recently been enlarged to Eight Pages (Times size), and contains, in addition to the most complete Colonial News, regular English correspondence, and instructive and entertaining articles from the leading European and American papers. Subscription 13s. per Quarter. ཚོ རྣམ " THE QUEENSLANDER,” The Leading Journal of Queensland. The “ Queenslander" is the most popular and widely-circulated Newspaper in Queensland, now contains 44 pages. Published weekly in Brisbane. Subscription 21s. per annum. Single Copy od. " THE DAILY OBSERVER,' Is the best Evening Newspaper in Queensland, and has a large and rapidly-increasing circulation. Price ld. Subscription 26s. per year. 6s. 6d. per Quarter, payable in advance. CHARLES HARDIE BUZACOTT, Managing Director. OFFICES:-QUEEN STREET, BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND. 303 JOHN FORSYTH & CO., IMPORTERS OF GENERAL DRAPERY & CLOTHING. 1 SPECIAL PECIAL ARRANGEMENTS having been made to have Goods sent by every Fortnightly > MAIL STEAMER, 3* Our Buyer being specially adapted for choosing Goods for the requirements of the Colony NOVELTIES by every Mail. Also we give our Customers the full benefit of all intermediate profits. “SMALL PROFITS & QUICK RETURNS” IS OUR MOTTO, ALBION KOUSI, QUIEN STREIT, BRISBAN2. Morse's Excelsior Family Hotel, BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND. V ISITORS to Brisbane will find superior accommodation at this first-class Family Hotel, situated in the most healthy part of the city, and commanding a splendid view of the river. Elegantly furnished Suites of Rooms for families. PLUNGE AND SHOWER BATHS. JOHN MORSE, Proprietor. 304 CORSER & CO., MERCHANTS, IMPORTERS, Shipping, Forwarding, €ustom House and Insurance Agents ! MARY BOROUGH. :0:- Wires, Spirits, Bottled Beers, and Oilmen's Stores of every description always on hand AGENTS FOR ORIENTAL TEA COMPANY'S TEAS. John Dunn & Co.'s Superfine Adelaide Flour. Thomas XXX Superfine Adelaide Flour. Malcolm's Steel Roller Adelaide Flour. Brunton's Steel Roller Victorian Flour. Antigua Sugar Factory. Bonna Sugar Factory. Waterview Sugar Factory. Johnson Bro.'s Hobart Town Jams. Stewart's Jams and Preserves. Craiglee Jams. Pigou Wilks' Blasting and Sporting Powder. Harper Twelvetrees & Sons' Blues, Soap Powders Baking Powders, and Wool Scourers. W. & A. Gilbey's Wines and Spirits. Krug & Co.'s Champagne. The Celebrated Vergniaud Claret. M'Gregor's Celebrated Rob Roy Highland Whiskey. Ferguso w's Breadalbane Whiskey. Thom and Cameron's Biscuits. J. E. Dulary and Coy's Brandy. Queensland Brewing Company's Beer. Schweppe's Mineral Waters. Gillon's Lime Juice Cordial. Nestle's Milk. ALSO FOR South British Insurance Company, Fire and Marine. Victoria Insurance Company, Limited, Fire and Marine. Equitable Insurance Association, Fire and Marine. British India Steam Navigation Company. Orient Steam Navigation Company. Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Queensland Steam Shipping Company. 305 EDWARDS & CHAPMAN, Queen Street, Brisbane, po Importers of Mattings, MSARIOS Importers of Drapery, Clothing, Carpets Floorcloths, Bedsteads, Furnishing, ol AND ALL KINDS OF Linoleums, Eastern Goods, - B EG to invite the attention of the Public to the large and varied Stock of Goods in all the Undermentioned Departments : Departments. Departments. Departments. Ribbons and Laces. Dress Goods. Window Hollands and Blinds. Handkerchiefs and Muslin Goods. Prints and Sateens. Table Baizes and Leather Cloths. Hosiery and Gloves. Cashmeres and Merinos. Carpets and Mattings. Frillings and Trimmings. Velvets and Crapes. Floor Cloths and Linoleums. Haberdashery. Umbrellas and Parasols. Singapore Chairs. Millinery. Calicoes and Linens. Bamboo Blinds. Flowers and Feathers. Roll Linings and Silesias. Beds and Bedding. Corsets and Underclothing. Flannels and Blankets. Chinese and Japanese Wares. Mantles and Costumes. Muslins and Mosquito Nets. Tailoring: Silks and Satins. Lace Curtains and Valances. Dressmaking. THE QUEENSLAND DRAPERY WAREHOUSE. The Largest RETAIL DRAPERY WAREHOUSE in the Colony. Total Floor Trea, 26,496 square feet. _ ;) ; ܐ