| LIBRARY UMWA&R, ºft tº $W ,º Me THE (INADI IN (IIDE BOOL WITH A MAP OF THE PROVINCE. MONTREAL : ARMOUR & RAMSAY, Messrs. J. M'Coy, R. & C. CHALMERs, C. Bryson, B. Dawson, R. & A. MILLER. Three Rivers, GEORGE SToBBs. Quebec, P. SINCLAIR. Sherbrooke, W. Brooks. Bytown, A. BRy--" son. Brockville, W. BUELL. Perth, J. ALLAN. Kingston, RAMSAY, ARMoua & Co. Belleville, J. HARRIson. Toronto, Scopie & BALFour, H. Rows ELL, and T. M.AcLEAR. Hamilton, M. MACKENDRICK. Niagara, J. SIMPson. Lon- don, C. W., T. CRAIG. New York, G. P. PUTNAM & J. Dis- TURNELL. 1849. Ar s - /2 2.7 - C & ! CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. X), THE NIAGARA RIVER, which conveys the waters of Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, is about thirty-four miles in length. At its entrance on the left appear the remains of Fort Erie, which was destroyed during the American War; and about a mile below stands the village of Waterloo. Between it and Black Rock, a village directly opposite on the American side, a steam-ferry-boat constantly plies. Here the river is about a mile wide. About three-and-a-half miles below is Grand Island, belonging to the Americans, aud bearing splendid timber. It is about nine miles long by seven in its greatest width. At its eastern extremity is White Haven, whence there is a ferry to Tonawanda, where the Erie Canal reaches the Niagara and skirts it onward to Buffalo. A little to the N.W. of this island lies Navy Island, far inferior in size and richness of soil. During the late insurrection William Lyon M'Kenzie issued his proclamations, as Provisional President of Canada, from the latter island, and a party of rebels and American sympathizers took possession of it. Thither the American steamboat Caroline was employed to convey ammunition and stores from Schlosser Landing on the American side. From this place she was cut out (in Dec. 1837), set on fire, and sent over the Falls about two-and-a-half miles below. This was effected by Captain Drew and a party of Volunteers by order of Col. M'Nab, who was then commanding the British Militia at the opposite village of Chippewa. At this place the Welland River falls into the Nia- gara. CHIPPEwA is very advantageously situated for ship-build- ing, and many vessels of large tonnage for the Upper Lakes have been built here by the Niagara Harbour and Dock Company. Hence a steamboat plies during the season to Buffalo. Here navigation 2 CANA DIAN GUIDE BOOK. ends, and even the Canadian boatmen dare not venture beyond. A little below, the river contracts suddenly to less than a mile, and the lº current rapidly increases from three to eight miles. We shall now present our readers with a few paragraphs from l Roy's History of Canada, descriptive of the world-renowned Falls' of Niagara and their surrounding scenery : “Whilst travelling over the few intervening miles before reach- ing the Falls, you can, by looking upwards, see the calm waters in the distance, whilst nearer they swell, and foam, and recoil, and seem to be gathering up all their force for the mighty leap they are about to make. Mrs. Jameson, when speaking of them, says in her own beautiful manner, “The whole mighty river comes rushing over the brow of a hill, and, as you look up at it, seems as if coming down to overwhelm you; then meeting with the rocks as it pours down the declivity, it boils and frets like the breakers of the Ocean. Huge mounds of water, smooth, transparent, and gleaming like an emerald, rise up and bound over some impediment, then break into silver foam, which leaps into the air in the most graceful and fantastic forms,” - “The Horseshoe or Canadian Fall is not quite circular, but is marked by projections and indentations which give amazing variety of form and action to the mighty torrent. There it falls in one dense mass of green water, calm, unbroken, and resistless ; here it is broken into drops, and falls like a shower of diamonds, sparkling in the sun, and at times it is so light and foaming that it is driven up again by the currents of air ascending from the deep below, where all is agitation and foam. “Goat or Iris Island, which divides, and perhaps adds to the sub- limity of, the Falls, is three hundred and thirty yards wide, and covered with vegetation. The American Fall, which is formed by the east branch of the river, is smaller than the British, and at first sight has a plain and uniform aspect. This, however, vanishes as you come near, and, though it does not subdue the mind as the Canadian one does, it fills you with a solemn and delightful sense of grandeur and simplicity. It falls upwards of two hundred feet, and is about twenty feet wide at the point of fall, spreading itself like a fan in falling. ~ y, º - * - - - * - / ~ : * : CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 3 “An ingenious American has thrown a curious wooden bridge across this Fall to Goat Island, which you cross only a very few yards above the crest of the cataract. Passing by it, and crossing the island > you reach the extremity of the British Fall on its eastern side. Here a piece of timber projects about twelve feet over the abyss, on which you can stand safely, and view the waters as they rush by, whilst the spray dashes over you, and your frail support quivers under your feet. Here you may follow the course of the waters as they roll from the rude confusion below you, and spread themselves out into bright, curling, foaming green and white waves. To some persons nothing at the Falls appears so beautiful as the columns of mist which soar from the foaming abyss, and shroud the broad front of the great flood, whilst here and there rainbows peep out from the mysterious curtain. “At the foot of the Canadian Fall, there is a ledge of rock, which leads into a cavern behind the sheet of waters, called ‘the Cavern of the Winds.” It is in the form of a pointed arch, the span on the left hand being composed of rolling and dark water, and that on the right of dark rocks. It is fifty or sixty feet large, and the obscurity that surrounds it, together with the strong wind which blows the spray and water all over you, render this rather a difficult undertaking, especially for young persons. “Within a few minutes’ walk of this lovely scene are to be found all the bustle and activity of life. On the American side are hotels and mills of every description, and a busy town called Manchester, through which passes the railroad that connects it with Lockport and Buffalo. On the Canadian side, too, several mills are built on the edge of the beautiful rapids, large and elegant hotels are erected, and a railroad is in operation from Chippewa to Queenston Heights. “A little below the Falls the Niagara resumes its usual soft and gentle beauty. The banks here are very high and beautifully wooded. About four miles below, the river has formed a circular excavation called “ the Whirlpool.” The rapid current here sweeps wildly past the sides of the high and perpendicular banks; and in its course the dead bodies or trees, that come with its reach, are carried with a quivering circular motion round and round this dismal spot. The º, 2- - - 4. CANADIAN GUIDE Book. rocks are steep, and no boat dares approach it, so that whatever gets into the current must there remain until decomposed, or broken to pieces by the action of the water. Having made this extraordinary circuit, the river regains its proper course and rushes between two precipices, which are not more than nine hundred feet apart. “Seven miles below the Falls the country on the Canadian side suddenly rises into abrupt and elevated ridges, called Queenston Heights, and supposed to have been the banks of the river, and ‘the place of the Falls’ in former ages. During the war a large body of American troops was driven down this steep precipice, and nearly all perished in the river. The monument erected to the memory of the brave General Brock, who ſell here, lies in ruins, having been blown up by one of the disaffected in 1838. At the foot of the hill is Queenston, a romantic looking village, where the Niagara again becomes navigable. on the American side, opposite to Queenston, stands the pretty town of Lewiston. A few miles below is Youngs- town, an inconsiderable place; and at the mouth of the river is the quiet town of Niagara with its four thousand people. Fort Missis- sagua guards the river on the Canadian side, and on the opposite shore the Americans have a strong stone fort, called Fert Niagara. The banks of this river are very pleasing, and the water of a pecu- liarly beautiful colour.” In connection with the above extract we subjoin a very few par- ticulars. On the Canadian side the principal hotels are the Clifton House and the Pavilion Hotel; and parties, wishful to enjoy the magnificent scenery for a few weeks, can readily procure accommo- dation in private boarding-houses. On the American side there are numerous hotels, the principal of which is the Cataract House, which generally overflows with visitants during the season. Here are large grist, paper, and timber mills. In Goat Island near the steps, called the Biddle Staircase after an individual of that name who appropriated a sum for their construction, the celebrated, or motori- ously fool-hardy, Sam Patch made two successful leaps from a plat- form, erected at the water’s edge and sustained from the bank above, the height of ninety-seven feet, in the presence of a vast concourse of enthusiastic spectators. This same individual perished in leaping over CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 5 the Genesee Falls at Rochester in the State of New York.-It is worthy of remark that the first fatal accident that has occurred in the numerous situations of considerable risk, where thousands upon thous sands have been exposed, was in the case of Dr. Hungerford of West Troy, N. Y. State, in May of 1839. While he and his fellow-traveller, Mr. Nile of Columbus, Ohio, accompanied by a guide, were passing under Hog’s Back Point, the air above them was suddenly discover- ed to be filled with falling earth and stone. In springing to their escape, the unfortunate Dr. was struck to the ground; and his com- panions, on removing him to a more secure spot, found that the vital spark had fled.—On the 16th of August, 1844, a Mr. Thompson, of Philadelphia, visited the Falls, and took rooms at the Clifton House. His first visit was to Table Rock, when he was one of a party that went under the sheet of water. While the rest of the party were ascending the bank towards the staircase on their return, he was observed to go down to the water’s edge and seat himself on a rock. As he was not seen thereafter, it is supposed that, in attempting to get on a rock at a little distance from the shore, between which surges occasionally pass with much violence, he was swept into the frightful current and perished.—On the 24th of August, 1844, a Miss Rugg, of Lancaster, Massachusetts, arrived at the Falls in com- pany with an elderly gentleman of Detroit, in whose care she was placed to accompany her on a visit to a sister living in Detroit. As they were passing near the bank about fifty rods below the Museum on the Canadian side, Miss Rugg left the gentleman’s arm, and step- ped to the edge to pluck some evergreens. In doing so, the earth slipped from under her, and she was precipitated one hundred and fifty feet upon a ledge of rocks. A Dr. Sturgis of New York, who happened to be in the Museum at the time, and several others de- scended the staircase at Table Rock, and, after clambering over rocks, fallen cedars, and tangled underbrush for nearly a quarter of a mile, reached the fair sufferer, strange to say, still alive, but apparently dying. On being bled, she so far rallied as to say to those standing by, “Pick me up.” By this time a boat had been brought near to the fatal spot, in which she was conveyed to the ferry-landing, and thence to the Clifton House. She lived three hours after the acci. A 2 6 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, dent, and retained her reason to the last, frequently exclaiming, “What will my poor mother say !” The sorrowing guardian took the body to Buffalo, and thence by steamboat to Detroit.—The first bridge from the main shore to the island was constructed in 1817, and was carried away by the ice in the ensuing spring. In 1818 a bridge was constructed, where Bath Island Bridge now stands, by the Hon. Augustus Porter and General P. B. Porter, brothers, the proprietors of the island. In the spring of 1839 its timbers were examined and found to be in a decayed condition ; and during the summer of the same year the present bridge was constructed at a cost of £750. The projecting platform at Table Point, from which the visitor can in perfect safety gaze on “Niagara’s spray” with its perpendicular cataract of one hundred and sixty-four feet almost Theneath his feet, was finished in the season of 1844. The Suspension Bridge is unquestionably as stupendous and sublime a work of art as any on this Continent. Its span is eight hundred feet; height from the water, two hundred and thirty feet; the depth of water, two hundred and fifty feet. The height of the stone tower is sixty-eight feet, and of the wooden, fifty. The num- ber of cables for bridge is sixteen; of strands in each cable, six hun- dred; of strands in the ferry-cable, thirty-seven, the diameter of which is seven-eighths of an inch. The ultimate tension is six thous- and five hundred tons, and the capacity of the bridge, five hundred. A passage across is thrillingly exciting. In December of 1848 the Suspension Bridge Companies agreed, after a long pending contro- versy, to give Mr. Ellet, the Engineer, the sum of 12,000 dollars in full of all demands, each party paying its own costs. It is understood that arrangements are in progress for making another Suspension Bridge over the Niagara at Queenston. The location is just above the point where the ferry-boats cross. The water space is abºut six hundred feet, and that between the towers, which are to be of stone, is about eight hundred and fifty feet. The traveller will be gratified in no ordinary degree by viewing the Falls not only in the small ferry-boat, which is rowed across by a single Indian of long experience, but also in the steam-boat which ascends at stated hours to within a few yards of the descending mass º CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 7 amidst the dense foam of the boiling caldron.—Few travellers, who pass a Sabbath here, fail to visit the village of Tuscarora Indians, distant about ten miles on the Lockport road. They are a remnant of a once powerful tribe from North Carolina, and number about five hundred. A venerable chief, who held a commission under General Lafayette during the Revolution, died in 1840. In the Presbyterian Church a Missionary preaches in the English language, and one of the chiefs interprets the discourse. In the Baptist Church a chief preaches in their own language.—Seven miles below the Falls, the country on the Canadian side suddenly rises into abrupt and ele- vated ridges, called Queenston Heights,rising more than three hundred feet, and running to a considerable distance east from Queenston. This striking escarpment, or line of inland cliff, is supposed to have anciently been the banks of the river and the “Place of the Falls.” QUEENston, before the opening of the Welland Canal, had a consi- derable business as a principal depot for merchandize intended for the West, shipping some forty or fifty thousand bushels of wheat in a season. A rail-road thence to Chippewa, which cost £19,000, was opened in 1841. A horse-ferry-boat crosses regularly to the opposite village of Lewiston, where the Buffalo rail-road terminates. A party of Rifles are stationed here. Above the village stands the once handsome monument to the memory of the brave General Brock, who was killed here in October, 1812, while repelling an invading army of Americans. The result of the attack was the cap- ture of the entire American force, including General Scott, recently Commander-in-Chief of the American Army in Mexico, and then a Colonel of Artillery. This monument was blown up by a disaffected American, named Lett, in April, 1841, who has met with some meed of his deserts in the New York State Prison at Auburn. It is expected that it will shortly be rebuilt on a more magnificent scale, as the necessary sum has been nearly realized by public subscription. The General’s remains were originally interred at Fort George (now in ruins) within half a mile of the town of Niagara, but were removed in 1824 to their resting-place under the monument.—Niag- ARA, which lies at the distance of seven miles below, was formerly called Newark, and was settled by Colonel Simcoe, then Lieutena; CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 9 change in this respect among the American, native Canadian, and also not a few Pennsylvanian Dutch farmers, by whom the District was settled after the American War of Independence. Extensive orchards are abundant, and large quantities of apples, peaches, and cider are annually shipped at Niagara. LAKE ONTARIO, along the British or American side of which the tourist will now proceed according to his selection of a steamboat at Queenston or Lewiston, is about one hundred and eighty miles long by about sixty in its greatest breadth. It is two hundred and thirty-four feet above the Atlantic, is so deep 'that in many places it exceeds one hun- dred fathoms, and is never frozen over. It is the safest of the three Lakes for navigation, as it has several excellent harbours, and numerous bays. On the British side the usual route is straight across from the mouth of the Niagara to Toronto, a distance of thirty-six miles; although there is an opportunity of visiting the west- ern extremity of the Lake, called Burlington Bay, afforded by a daily steamboat. This is distant about forty-five miles. About midway is the opening of the Welland Canal at Port Dalhousie.—On the south side of the Bay at the western extremity lies the rapidly im- proving town of HAMILTON, which was laid out in 1813 by a person of that name, and now contains a population upwards of ten thou- sand. From being the principal market for the Western merchants it, seems destined to become second to no city in Upper Canada. An ample supply of excellent freestone and limestone behind the city affords the means of erecting handsome buildings, of which the mer- chants now generally avail themselves; and considerable quantities are exported to Toronto and other places on the Lake. It is expected that it will soon be furnished with gas and water-works. From the Bay is seen Dundurn, the handsome mansion of Sir Allan M“Nab, lately Speaker of the House of Assembly. It returns one M.P.P. Three newspapers are published. It is worthy of notice that behind the city rise the Burlington Heights, a continuation of the ridge from Queenston Heights, and that the same ridge stretches along gradually inwards till it recedes about twenty miles between Toronto and Hol- CANADIAN GUIDE Book. 11 The city labours under the disadvantage of having no quarries, so that the private buildings are of brick. Property has increased greatly in value, and the rents of houses in good situations for busi- ness are upwards of £150 to £200. The principal public buildings are the Jail at the east end, the Court-house, the old Market-house, the new City Hall, the Upper Canada College, the old Parliament Buildings (partly occupied by the officials of King’s College) and the Hospital, the last two of which lie towards the west end on the Bay. The stranger should visit the extensive and tastefully laid-out grounds of King’s College, which will be a splendid edifice, should it ever be completed in the costly style which the finished portion presents as a specimen. This University is empowered to grant degrees in Arts and Sciences. The Free Church Presbyterians have a Theological Semi- nary and Academy, and the Congregationalists an Academy. The Lu- natic Asylum and Observatory are worthy of a visit. There is a great number of institutions and societies for benevolent, religious, scien- tific, economical, and other objects. Ten newspapers and three monthly periodicals are published. The tonnage of steamboats owned here is about four thousand tons; and the yearly value of the Exports is estimated at £200,000. Toronto sends two members to the House of Assembly.—In coasting from Toronto to Cobourg, a distance of seventy-two miles, the villages or towns of Picker- ing, Windsor Harbour, Darlington and Port Hope, are passed in succession, all of which are well supplied with mills, and export several hundred thousand feet of lumber annually. - Cobou Re is well laid-out, and has a flourishing appearance. The merchants have established a Board of Trade. About a mile and a half to the west stand the Jail arº Court-house, a handsome stone building. The principal building is Victoria College, which was constituted as such by Act of Parliament in 1842 with power to confer degrees in Arts and Sciences. It was originally founded by the Wesleyan Confer- ence, but is unsectarian in its character. It is chiefly supported by a Legislative grant of £500 per annum, and by tuition-ſees. It cost about £10,000, and contains Lecture-rooms, Chapel, Library, and Reading-room, which is, perhaps, overstocked with Canadian news- papers liberally forwarded by the Editors. It is commonly attended CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 13 mains, is always well pleased to exhibit it to the traveller. They are attached to the Church of England, and, their place of worship having become too small for the congregation, they have recently erected a commodious stone church, the expense of which has been defrayed out of their own funds. A missionary was first appointed in 1810 by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. Their present excellent missionary reports that during his incumbency they have been making a gradual advance in morals, piety, and industry. They support a school-master out of the produce of certain small rents, which they receive and manage themselves. Their number is about four hundred. It is highly gratifying to the Christian philan- thropist to mark such progress among the descendants of the ancient proprietors of the American soil.—Between the Peninsula of Prince Edward and Kingston lies AMHERST ISLAND, so called after Lord Amherst, one of the Generals in command of the British forces in 1760 when Canada was transferred to Britain. It was originally granted to Sir John Johnson for military services. The Earl of Mountcashel owns the principal part. The land is very good, and the tenants are in comfortable circumstances.--It is worth remarking here that the real settlement of Upper Canada took place in 1783 at the close of the first American war. At that time many inhabitants of the United States, who had adhered to Britain during the unfors túnate contest, sought refuge within Canada. As they were gener- ally in a very destitute state, the Government treated them liberally, and afforded them the utmost possible compensation for their losses and sufferings. With this view the whole land along the St. Law- rence above the French settlements to, and around, the Bay of Quinté was formed into townships. The settlers were termed the United Empire (U. E.) Loyalists, and besides an ample supply of land received farming utensils, building materials, and subsistence for two years; and every member of their families, on attaining the age of twenty-one, had a donation of two hundred acres. 14 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. w KINGSTON is built on the site of the old Fort Cataraqui, subsequently called Fort Frontenac in honour of the Count de Frontenac, one of the French Viceroys. Its advantageous position at the outlet of Lake. Ontario into the St. Lawrence has raised it to considerable impor- tance as an entrepot between the two Provinces. To accommodate this trade, wharfs and spacious warehouses have been provided. The streets are regularly arranged, and the houses are chiefly built of stone, of which there is an abundant supply. About half a mile distant is a low peninsula ending in Point Frederick, which with the other parallel one, terminating in Point Henry, encloses Navy Bay, the depot for the maritime armament formed during the late war. On an eminence of the peninsula is Fort Henry, which commands the entrance to the Lake. Point Frederick is connected with the town by a wooden bridge across the Cataraqui Bay, near which are the Marine Barracks. The town has recently been put into a state of complete defence by the erection of large substantial martello towers. In 1841 Lord Sydenham removed the Seat of Government thither from Toronto, when the inhabitants, indulging the hope that it would continue to be the Capital, went to considerable expense in making improvements. The removal of the seat of Government to \lontreal in 1844 proved for a time a severe shock to its prospec- tive prosperity, from which it is rapidly recovering. Its commercial importance is enhanced by being the port of the Rideau Canal, which communicates with the Ottawa at Bytown, and thus opens up so much of the back country. The principal building is the Market- House so called, although only a portion of it is occupied as such. It is the linest and most substantial building in Upper Canada, and cost £25,000. In the front are several public offices, and above are the Fown-Hall and a room opposite, of the same size, capable of ac- commodating five hundred persons. From the gallery surrounding the interior of the dome a very extensive view is commanded. The Presbyterians in connection with the Church of Seotland have a Collegiate Institution, called Queen's College and University of Kingston. The Hospital is supported partly by Government and partly by voluntary contributions The Hotel Dieu is attended by CANADIAN GUIDE Book. 15 Sisters of Charity, and the Roman Cathºlic Cathedral is of recent erection. There are two Marine Railways, one for hauling out vessels of three hundred tons, and the other for hauling out river boats and barges. At Portsmouth Harbour, a little to the west, lies the Provincial Penitentiary, a visit to which, and inspection of the internal arrangements, will not disappoint the traveller. It is a Jarge stone building, surrounded by a high and most substantial stone wall with towers at the corners. The arrangements are so complete that escape seems under any circumstances impracticable. Blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, &c., are busily em- ployed in different workshops. The silent system is pursued except in necessary intercommunication at work. The inmates in general display a contented and subdued appearance. Perseverance in good behaviour entitles in remarkable cases to a discharge some years be- fore the expiration of the term of confinement. It seems that there are not a few instances of convicts becoming inmates but a short time after receiving their liberty; so irresistible is the force of habit, when again subjected to temptation. The cells are so arranged that each keeper has a great number of prisoners, apart from each other, :ompletely under his eye in his round,and can at all times ascertain, without being perceived, what is going on. Near the Penitentiary are baths and mineral springs, which have been much frequented. In the neighbourhood is an extensive saleratus ſactory in connection with a brewery. The proprietor offers to supply two thousand lbs. per day. Five weekly newspapers are published. Kingston returns one M. P. P. The population, including two villages, is about twelve thousand. The tonnage of steamers and schooners owned here is upwards of seven thousand. - Before descending the St. Lawrence and bidding farewell to the Dntario, for the sake of the tourist who may prefer to steam along the American or Southern shore of the Lake, we shall ſurnish a few particulars. From the outlet of the Niagara at the Fort of that hame to the boundary line of 45°, the entire littoral is in the State 5f New York, and comprises in succession the counties of Niagara, Orleans, Monroe, Wayne, the northern corner of Cayuga, Oswego, Jefferson, and St. Lawrence. The last along its entire western -------- ** 16 CANADIAN GUIDE Book. frontier, and a half of Jefferson County are bounded by the River. From Fort Niagara to the mouth of the Genesee River in Monroe County, a distance of about eighty-five miles, the coast presents an , almost undeviating level under the primeval brush-wood, relieved by a few scattered clearances. Rochester, Should the tourist on ascending the Genesee to Carthage, which is the port of Rochester, resolve upon visiting this city, he will find enough to engage and gratify his curiosity till he resume his journey by the next steamer. The road for a mile from Carthage has been excavated to the depth of from sixty to eighty feet, and in some parts overhangs the rugged banks of the river to an equal height, so that the stranger on his return, as he is borne along in the omnibus, from its peculiar construction making a regular alternation of jolts from side to side, notwithstands ing the romantic scenery cannot help yielding to an uncomfortable impression of danger. An Englishman in 1810, having penetrated many miles into the bush, was struck with the water advantages which the Genesee afforded, and selected for his loghouse a portion of the locality which the wide-spreading Rochester now fills-up. Some idea may be formed of its astonishing progress from the fact that the population, which in 1825 was 5,271, and in 184020,191, amounts now to about 35,000. This large commercial and manu- facturing city owes its greatness mainly to the “water privileges” which the proprietors on the banks of the Genesee here possess. For a considerable way above the Upper Falls the banks are on both sides surmounted by a great variety of mills. Its proximity to Lake Ontario, and the passage of the Erie Canal through its principal streets, contribute materially to its prosperity. A frontage on the river fetches a high price, as from the nature of the situation a supply of water from the canal or race can in many cases be rendered available twice or thrice. The aqueduct, by means of which the Canal crosses the river, is eight hundred and four feet long, contains ten acres, and is finished off in a most substantial manner. The vast produce of the Genesee Valley, which stretches sixty or seventy cANADIAN Guide Book. I7 miles, and is unsurpassed in fertility even on this Continent, is con- veyed thither by the Genesee Canal, and thence to Albany, &c. The passage of the great Erie Railroad has recently contributed its share. The Upper Falls are about one hundred feet in height, and, though much diminished in effect by buildings, still present a magnificent view. In their waters the fool-hardy Sam Patch, buoyed up by one successful plunge in them on a previous cecasion, as well as by two at Niagara Falls, in making a second leap, perished in presence of a vast concourse of spectators. The body submerged, and was never discovered. The streets of Rochester are wide, aud well laid out, containing many first-rate private and public buildings. Of these we may mention the court-house, jail, arcade, and observatory, upwards of a dozen churches, and about six hotels, &c. &c. The Mount Hope Cemetery in the vicinity vies in extent and appropriate- ness of design and scenery with those of Greenwood near Brooklyn and Laurel Hill at Philadelphia. Before closing this notice we shall subjoin a statement of some particulars as to the flouring-mills, which are regarded as the largest in the world. A few years ago (1835) they amounted to twenty-one, and the capital invested in them exceeded half a million of dollars. When in full operation, they require daily twenty thousand bushels of wheat, and are capable of manufacturing five thousand barrels per day. So effective is, the machinery connected with several runs of stones that one can grind, bolt, and pack one hundred bushels of flour daily. Besides the wheat drawn frºm the rich wheat-growing valley of the Genesee and the shores of Erie and Ontario, some millers imported from Canada (in 1835) about one hundred thousand bushels. Such is the high character of the “Rochester brands”, that, besides the large ship- ments to foreign ports, they may be seen at Montreal and Quebec, New Orleans, New York, and Boston. The water-power of the two falls is estimated as equal to one thousand nine hundred and twenty steam-engines of twenty horse power. Calculated according to the cost of steam power in England, the annual value of this water power would amount to nearly ten millions of dollars. A large capital is also invested in cotton and woollen mills, iron- B 2 18 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. works, tanneries, &c. &c.—Oswego, the principal commercial port on the American side of the Lake, is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river of that name. The principal part of the town is on the western bank, and has a neat and stirring appearance. On the opposite bank are some large mills, and here terminates the Oswego Canal from Syracuse, distant about thirty-eight miles. About half-way betwixt Carthage and Oswego is Great Sodus Bay. —At the eastern extremity of the Lake, on the south side of Black River Bay, lies in a very sheltered situation SACKEtt’s HARbour. This was the naval station of the United States on the Lake during the last war with Great Britain. In May, 1813, Sir George Prevost effected a landing with one thousand men, but hastily re-embarked without accomplishing his purpose. The Navy Yard is a conspicus ous object from the landing.—About twenty miles north of sackett's Harbour, French Creek enters the St. Lawrence. Hence, in the beginning of November 1813, General Wilkinson embarked at the head of seven thousand men with the view of descending the St. Lawrence and attacking Montreal, expecting to be re-inforced by troops from Plattsburg. Six days thereafter an engagement took place near Williamsburgh on the Canadian shore, when the Ameris cans were worsted. On the arrival of the army at St. Regis, disaps pointed in his expectation of a re-inforcement, General Wilkinson . retired to French Mills, and encamped there for the winter. This place was subsequently named Fort Covington, in memory of General Covington who fell at the battle of Williamsburg. Opposite Kingston lies a large island, called Wolfe’s Island, It is well settled, having upwards of six thousand acres under cultivation. The stream, which in the course of a few miles issues from the Lake, is now for the first time called the St. Law- rence; and its channel so expands, and becomes so full of islands, that it obtains the name of the “Lake of the THous AND Isles,” These islands present every imaginable shape, size, and appearance— some barely visible, others covering many acres. As one is convey- ed along the unruffled surface with a cloudless sky overhead, survey- ing from the steamer's deck the ever varying combinations of wood rocks, and water, he imagines that he is passing through some de- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 19 lightful fairy-land. He finds himself sometimes enclosed within a narrow channel, shortly discovers openings as of noble rivers, and then seems to be on the bosom of a spacious lake.--Shortly after entering this picturesque scene, sixteen miles from Kingston, is the village of Gananoque, and on emerging from it is BRockvi L.L.E, one of the prettiest towns in Canada. Most of the houses and public build- ings are constructed of limestone, on a bed of which the town is built. In the neighbourhood is granite, but not used from its hardness to be worked and consequent expensiveness. A good road is con- structed thence to Perth, which is about forty miles north-west. Op- posite the town is a rocky islet, surmounted by a blockhouse, where a few Riflemen are stationed. The population is upwards of two thousand with two weekly newspapers. It returns a member to the House of Assembly.—Five miles east lies the small village of Mait- land, built on the site of an old French fortification. Seven miles below lies PREsco TT, called after a lieutenant Governor of that name, and rendered memorable during the late rebellion. Before the opening of the Rideau Canal it was a place of considerable trade. A company of Rifles and a few Artillerymen are stationed here. The population is two thousand A steam-ferry boat plies to the American town of Ogdensburgh, which lies directly opposite. The river is about a mile and a half broad here.—Between i rescott and Dickenson’s Landing at the head of the Cornwall Canal, a distance of thirty-eight miles, are in succession the villages of Ma- tilda, Mariatown, Chrysler's, and Moulinette, and in succession, at nearly equal distances of seven or eight miles, are the Galoppes Rap- ids, the Point Iroquois Rapids, the Rapide Flat lapids, and the Farren’s Point Rapids, in which the current varies from six to ten miles per hour. Canals of a few miles in length have been con- structed that trade-vessels may pass. An island shortly obstructs the current, producing what is called the “LoNG SAULT” i. e. Long Leap. The stream rushes through a narrow, passage on each side, and hurries on the bark with great velocity; and the two currents, meeting at the lower end of the island, dart most furiously against each other, and form what is called the “Big Pitch.” To avoid these rapids on the upward passage, Government has constructed, at ------->====- - E=- º 20 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. , a cost of nearly sixty thousand pounds, a magnificent canal, called the Cornwall Canal, which was opened in 1843. It is eleven-and- a-half-miles long, and has seven locks.-The town of CoRNw ALL is well laid out, and has a pleasant situation. It returns a Member to the House of Assembly, has a population of nearly two thousand, and a newspaper. It is worth the tourist’s while to avail himself of the opportunity afforded for going on shore and inspecting the work- manship of the canal. The French inhabitants formerly called this place “ Pointe"Maline” from the difficulty they experienced in as- cending this portion of the river with their bateaua.-Opposite to Cornwall lies the Indian village of St. REGIs, where line 45° strikes the St. Lawrence, and forms the boundary between Lower Canada and the State of New York, intersecting, also, the tract of land which is the property of this body of Iroquois, numbering in all about one thousand, and about equally British and American. There is a large stone church, which was erected upwards of fifty years ago at their own expense. The Government maintains a French Canadian missionary, who resides permanently at the village, and devotes his whole time to the tribe. A great portion of the service consists of singing, of which the Indians are passionately fond. The men procure a precarious subsistence chiefly by hunting, and the women employ themselves in making mitts and moccassins from the skins of animals that have been killed duriug the winter, and in manufacturing splint baskets and brooms —After passing the Canal the St. Lawrence widens into one of those beautiful expanses, called Lakes, which tend not a little to impart variety to the course of this majestic river. LAKE St. FRAN cis is forty miles long. About halfway down the lake on the left hand stards the village of Lancas- ter,close on the boundary line between the West and East Provinces. Here the Loyal Glengary Highlanders raised a large cairn or pile of stone (a memorial occasionally erected for warriors of old in Scot- land) in honour of Sir John Colborne, now Lord Seaton, formerly Governor General. TH E R A Pips. At the extremity of the lake com- mences a succession of very formidable rapids, called the Coteau du Lac, the Cedars or the Split tºock, and the Cascades. The voyage down this sixteen miles’ declivity of boiling waters, often presenting, ! ſt CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 21 as it were, sea-waves lashed by tempestuous winds under a burning and unclouded sky, is perhaps as exciting as this or any country offers. The landscape along the shore is in some parts romantic, exhibiting a few villages with handsome churches and parsonages and mills, with an uninterrupted succession of cottages on the water’s edge. The excitement is enhanced by a sense of risk accompanying the vessel as she sweeps with the utmost speed close past islands and rocks, whilst her straight course in the channel is maintained by the steady exertions of eight voyageurs at the wheel and rudder. A cons siderable island, called Grande Isle, lies a little below the east end of the Lake. In order to open up a communication between this Lake and the next expanse, called Lake St. Louis, which is twenty- four miles in length, the Beauharnois Canal has been constructed by Government at a cost of £162,281. It is eleven-and-a-quarter miles long, and has nine locks.-The St. Lawrence, on emerging from the Cascades, receives a great influx of waters from the Ottawa, and their combined waters form the expanse of Lake St. Louis, at the western extremity of which is the considerable island of Isle Perrot, and along the north shore is the Island of Montreal, which is above thirty miles in length. For some distance below the junc- tion the brown waters of the Ottawa roll on unmixed with the clear stream of the St. Lawrence. At the outlet of the Lake on the right is the Iroquois settlement of CAUGHNAwaga or “The Village of the Rapids,” in allusion to those that lie a little below. It was granted for their benefit by Louis XIV. in 1780, and enlarged by Governor Frontenac. These Indians in summer chiefly subsist by navi- gating barges and rafts down to Montreal, and in winter by the sale of snow-shoes, moccassins, &c. They are Roman Catholics, and have lately rebuilt a handsome and substantial church They behaved nobly during the recent disturbances, and since that period have received special marks of Her Majesty's favour.—On the left bank stands LAchi NE, the central situation of which bids fair to en- sure its growth and prosperity. Here is the residence of Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and of the staff of officers in charge of this, the principal post of the company. Hence emanate the instructions, received from head-quarters in Lon- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 23 It seems proper to premise that Lower Canada is divided into five Districts; three superior, Montreal, Three Rivers, and Quebec; and two inferior, St Francis and Gaspé. These are Judicial divi- sions, having Courts of superior and inferior jurisdiction. The Dis- trict of Montreal is intersected by the St. Lawrence, and each por- tion is nearly equal in point of extent, pºpulation, and value. The northern portion extends along the Ottawa which forms the boundary between Upper and Lower Canada, till it is bounded by Lake Temiscaming; the southern has for its opposite frontier the northern boundaries of the States ºf New York and Vermont. The island of Montreal is the largest and most fertile in Canada and is formed by the waters of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence on its northern and southern sides respectively. Its generally level surface is diversified by several gentle ridges called coleaua, while the eminence in rear of the city attains' a height of five hundred and fifty feet. Its lux- uriant production of the choicest fruits and vegetables has deservedly earned for it the appellation of the “Garden of Canada.” The island, which in conjunction with a few islands around it constitutes the County of Montreal and returns a member to Parliament, is divided into ten parishes; whereof that of the City of Montreal com- prises besides the Royalty and the Suburbs the villages of Hcchelaga below the city, Cote des Neiges behind the ‘Micuntain', and St. Henry or the ‘Tanneries.” and the intermediate localities. It is orthy of notice that the intrepid discoverer Cartier for the first time tered Hochelaga, on the 3rd of October, 1535, then a village of tºuron Indians, destined, however, to be the nucleus of the modern ty of Montreal. On the 15th ºf August, 1642, the day observed aſ the Romish Church in honour of the Assumption of the Virgin *ary, the spot destined for the city was consecrated with due "emnities, commended to the protection of the “Queen of Angels,” ...d named Wille Marie. In 1644 the whole of this valuable island tº came by royal grant the property of the St. Sulpicians at Paris, * hose founder, the Abbé Quelus, landed with authority from the iminary of St Sulpice, and before 1657 had cleared and settled a rge part of the property. He founded the Seminary of that name Montreal, and the land of the entire island has been purchased w 24 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. from that body, or is in the hands of tenants for a stipulated rental. The population of the island is estimated at from sixty-five to seventy thousand souls, of which the city contains about fifty thousand. The relative population of the latter stands nearly thus ; two-tenths are French Canadians; nearly one-tenth, British Canadian; one-and-a- half-tenth, English, Irish, and Scotch; somewhat less than one half- tenth, Germans, United States, &c. For municipal purposes the city is divided into nine Wards, three of which send three represen- tatives to the Council each, aud the other six send two each. The corporation is thus composed of twenty-one members, comprehending the Mayor, five Aldermen, and fifteen Councillors. Their labours are subdivided amongst seven Committees of Finance, Fire, Light, Markets, Police, Roads, and Waters. The city sends two members to the House of Assembly. We shall now conduct our tourist from Donegana's Hotel, as a convenient starting point for an excursion through the city. The front portion of this large building was occupied as Government House during Lord Sydenham’s administration. In 1846 Mr. Donegana by extensive additional buildings in the rear completed this hotel in a manner not surpassed by any hotel on the American continent, not excepting the celebrated “Astor-House’, of New York. From its dome a delightful view of the surrounding country is commanded. The Hotel opens upon Notre Dame Street, the principal and most fashionable. It is worth noticing that the other principal streets run parallel to this, north and south, and are crossed at right angles by streets running east and west. The streets of the Old City have been named after a variety of the Saints, whilst the nomenclature in the more modern part reminds us of Governors Craig, Dorchester, Sher- brooke, &c. On proceeding a little southwards is seen a low building within a railed parapet, called the Old Government House. This house, which was originally erected by a company of fur- traders, has been partially repaired and modernized, so as to adapt its suite of apartments, along with those in the adjoining buildings, to the services of various Governmental Departments. The Governor’s presence for the transaction of public business is intimated by the floating of the Union-jack on the flag-staff. He resides at Monk- 26 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. of combining honour to the departed and utility to the living, the funds were devoted to the erection of this wing, and so commemorate the worth of the first President of the Hospital, who had so liberally contributed to its foundation and support. The second wing has been erected (1848) from funds left by the late Judge Reid, also a Scotsman, at the disposal of his widow, who made the grant subject to the single condition that a tablet, similar to the one in the north wing, should commemorate the donation. This institution is under excellent management, and has proved highly beneficial to the com- munity. The average scale of In-door and Out-door patients for several years somewhat exceeds a thousand in each class annually. Medical students on payment of a small fee receive much insight into their profession by attending the practise of the Hospital. The only inadmissible cases are those of advanced stages of pregnancy, insani- ty, and incurable disease.—At the north end of the Parade Ground stands Gosford Street Church, being the Second Congregational or Independent Church; and at the south-eastern corner stands St. Gabriel Street Church. It was opened in 1792, and for several years was called the Scottish Church, as it was the only one in this Prov- ince in connection with the Established Church of Scotland. It is remarked that the bell in its steeple is the first Protestant bell that sounded in Canada.—It is probable that the two buildings within the enclosure betwixt the Champ de Mars and Notre Dame Street will be soon replaced. The one, whose walls only are standing, was occupied as a Court House since 1800 till it was destroyed by fire in 1845. The other edifice was occupied as the Gaol of the city from 1806 to 1836, when the inmates were transferred to the more com- modious building called the New Gaol, It was afterwards occupied by the Government as Barracks until, in consequence of the de- struction of the Court House by fire, it was selected as a temporary Court House. Here are the Judges’ Chambers, the Rooms of the Grand and Petty Juries, the Offices of the Clerks of the Crown and Peace, &c. &c. It might afford an agreeable variety to a stranger to visit the Courts during their session and hear the debates in both languages. It may be mentioned that the Superior Courts have jurisdiction in suits above £20, and the Inferior Courts in suits under 28 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. no doubt after many pecuniary embarrassments, in the erection of the present handsome structure in 1814. It is worthy of record here that the congregation was in the meantime accommodated with the use of the Scotch Church. Such accommodation on the part of Roman Catholics to Protestant congregations under similar eireum- stances, and of Protestants of different denominations to each other, is matter of fact in the Ecclesiastical history of the city deserving of honourable mention. The interior of Christ Church presents neat- ness and simplicity of design and execution. The organ, which is a powerful and elegant instrument made by Elliot, of London, was erected in 1816 at an expense of nearly £1600. From the balcony at the base of the spire (two hundred and four feet high) is an exten- sive view of the whole city and circumjacent country.—The Convent of the Congregation of Notre Dame, or the Black Nunnery, as it is colloquially called from the black dress worn by the sisters, was founded in 1659. It is composed of a superior and sixty sisters, the waost of whom are employed in instructing the pupils in the different branches of female education. The block of very elegant shops and houses to the corner of St. Jean Baptiste Street stands upon the prop- erty of the Nunnery, which besides the chapel and a large garden comprises the entire side of the street just mentioned. We shall afterwards make mention of the enterprising foundress of this estab- blishment.—On the east side of the Place d’Armes or French Square stands the highly imposing front of the Parish Church or Cathedral. From the foundation of Montreal in 1642 to 1672 public worship was performed in a wooden chapel, which in the latter year was succeeded by a more commodious and substantial erection of stone. This stood quite across the middle of Notre Dame Street, exactly in front of the present magnificent Cathedral, so that passengers were obliged to pass half round the church on either side. Even this church was found inadequate for accommodating the rapidly increasing popula- tion, and in 1675 the Church of Bonsecours was opened. These were the first churches of stone erected in the island of Montreal. The present Cathedral was commenced in 1824, and in 1829 was in so forward a state as to be opened for public worship. It is of the perpendicular style of Gothic architecture of the middle ages, and, CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 29 notwithstanding a manifest destitution of ornament, it is regarded as not inferior to any ecclesiastical structure on the continent of North America in the combination of the grand and simple in architecture. The six towers are so arranged that each flank presents three, and the east and west ends present two each. The towers in front are two hundred and twenty feet high, and strangers usually avail themselves of the magnificent prospect which the southern one affords, and in which is placed the largestbell in America, weighing twenty-nine thou- sand four hundred lbs, or upwards of thirteen tons, and cast in London, expressly. The interior strikes the spectator more from its vast capacity than otherwise. The ground-floor and two galleries ac- commodate ten thousand sitters in one thousand two hundred and forty-four pews. The five public and three private entrances to the former, and four to the latter, are so arranged that this vast assem- blage can assemble and disperse without disagreeable pressure. The building comprises seven chapels and nine spacious aisles, all of which are visible from the front entrance. The high altar, which is somewhat in the florid style, bears a resemblance to that of St. Peter's at Rome, the pulpit to that of the Cathedral at Strasburg. The pillars, which support the galleries, are wooden and painted in imitation of clouded Italian or American marble. The organ and painting call for no especial notice. The large figure, occupying a prominent niche in the centre of the front, is one of the Virgin, to whose protection the edifice is dedicated. The amount laid out in the construction of this ecclesiastical edifice has reached nearly £100,000, a considerable portion of which remains unimbursed. A night-view from the opposite side of the Square is considered to cons vey to an observer as striking an impression of the imposing magni- tude of the front as any other. The entire space under the Cathedral forms a cemetery in which the more wealthy Catholics are interred. —The handsome and substantial edifice immediately adjoining the Cathedral to the south-west, and which replaces one of the oldest establishments in connection with the Roman Catholic Church in the city, is the Seminary of St. Sulpice. It was founded about 1657 by the Abbé Quelus, who had been commissioned by the St. Sul- C 2 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 31 establishment, but now occupied by the Banque du Peuple or People’s Bank. Its front is ornamented with four emblematical devices of Agriculture, Manufactures, Arts, and Commerce in bas-relief. Its erection cost upwards of £11,000. It was opened in 1835 and has a capital of £200,000.-A little farther on the opposite side of the street (Great St. James's) is the Bank of British North America. The principal stockholders are in London, where is the head-office. The capital is one million sterling. It has Branches and Agencies in the principal towns of Canada, and in the capitals of the Lower Provinces, besides an Agency in New York.-The New Wesleyan Church in this street is a spacious building, and is regarded as a fine specimen of the Florid Gothic style of architecture of the fourteenth century. It can seat two thousand persons, and cost £12,500.-- The Odd Fellows' Hall, the Ottawa Hotel, and the American Pres- byterian Church contribute a due share to the substantial and taste- ful architecture of this superior street. The congregation of this church was organized in 1822. The individuals originally compos- ing it seceded from the St. Andrew’s (Scotch Establishment) con- gregation, conceiving themselves aggrieved by certain measures pursued therein. The name assumed intimated their national origin. It was opened for public worship in 1826.-By going a few yards beyond this church the stranger can command a fine view of the well wooded and precipitate portion of the Mountain, and has on the rising foreground St. Patrick’s Church to the right, and to the left Zion Church, New St. Andrew’s Church, and the Unitarian Church fronting the spectator a few yards to the right of the one just men- . tioned.—St. Patrick's, which is in the Gothic style of the fifteenth century, is comfortably seated for nearly five thousand persons. The interior is finished off in a chaste and simple manner, whilst the absence of galleries imparts a light and airy appearance to the lofty walls and ceiling. The spire is two hundred and twenty-five feet high, and is one of the most striking objects to one approaching the city.—The congregation of Zion Church comprises the members of the First Congregational or Independent Church of this city. This body in 1832 did not number above fifteen individuals, when they formed themselves into a Christian Church. A neat place of wor- * - CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 35 now in use on the St. Lawrence may pass each other at any portion of the line. It is believed that no canal structure in the world exceeds in depth and breadth the Lachine for its length. There is in process of formation at Lachine a spacious harbour by means of running out an embankment of stone, “puddled” in the interior, several thousand feet into the Lake, and quarrying the granite bed of the river for the breadth of a hundred feet or more within the line of wall, so as to give vessels a clear channel into deep water, and a basin for small craft and rafts inside. The continuous alluvial bottom along the entire line, and the escarpment by which it is bounded, intimate that the main flood of the St. Lawrence in former times covered these parts.-It may be noted here that the wire of the Montreal and Troy Telegraph is carried across the St. Lawrence near the chute of the Lachine Rapids. The breadth of the river here is six thousand three hundred and eighty feet. The wire is supported on two masts, one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, erected on strong scaf. folding in the middle of the river, the one on Alsopp's Island and the other on a submerged rock. Near the Upper Basin there has been recently erected a large flouring establishment, called the City Mills. It contains six runs of stones, and can manufacture from five to six hundred barrels of superfine flour per day. The Stores along this Basin are very commodious and capable of receiving a vast amount of produce. In returning along the wharves towards the Barracks, the stranger will pass the Custom-House, a small but handsome building occupying the centre of the Square to which it gives name. It is of the Tuscan order, and its fronts are sur- mounted by triangular pediments. Some idea may be formed of the amount of business done in the Customs here, from the statement that in 1847 one hundred and sixty-two vessels were entered, whose tonnage amounted to forty-one thousand eight hundred and eleven tons.—Proceeding a little northward in St. Paul Street, the stranger will come to the Hotel Dieu Nunnery, the church of which fronts this street. This was the first Religious House formed in the city, having been founded in 1644 by Madame de Bouillon. It is conducted by a superior and thirty-six nuns. Here the dis- eased poor of both sexes have for generations found an asylum. 36 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. An air of convenience and neatness pervades all the buildings belonging to this institution. Strangers wishful to see the interior of this, or any of the Nunneries, by making application for permis- sion from the Lady Superior, seldom fail in having their wishes gratified.—A little northward along the River will be found the Bonsecours Market, which for spaciousness and conveniency in arrangements is not surpassed on this Continent. Its interior is worthy of a visit. This edifice cost upwards of £70,000—In its close vicinity is the Church of Notre Dame de Bonsecours. It was founded in 1658, but in consequence of several obstacles was not finished till 1675. This was the first church built of stone in the island. In 1754 it was consumed by fire, and its re-erection was not completed till 1773. The foundress was the celebrated Mar- guerite Bourgeois, a native of Troyes in France. She came to Mon- treal in 1653, and, after a series of obstacles which would have daunted less benevolent minds, and the removal of which she accom- plished by revisiting France and obtaining the authority of Govern- ment, she was enabled to complete this church, and to establish the Congregational Nunnery, already noticed. A little beyond is the Engine-house for forcing up from the River the water for the supply of the city. It is received into two reservoirs capable of containing about half a million of gallons.—A little farther on are situated the Commissariat Buildings and the Barracks, which from their situation are frequently distinguished as the Quebec Gate Barracks. Under the French this building belonged to a nunnery, but shortly after the conquest, was converted to its present purpose. These barracks were enlarged in 1822, and are capable of containing about one thousand troops. There are other, but not regular, barrack- buildings in this suburb and at the Cross, three miles below. On the beautiful island of St. Helen, which lies opposite and belongs to Government, are permanent barracks, an armoury, magazine, &c. —In returning to his hotel, the stranger may pass through Dal- housie Square, the west-side of which contains the Quarters of the Military Officers. On the south-west side has been recently erected a massive building of substantial workmanship, including the New Freemasons' Hall and the Theatre, which has been finished off in a CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 37 * style not surpassed on this Continent.—A few minutes' walk from the Parade will conduct the stranger to the Bishop’s Church or rather Cathedral. It was erected in 1824, and is capable of containing three thousand persons. Montreal was erected into a Bishopric in 1836. J. J. Lartigue was first Roman Catholic Bishop of Montreal. Previously he was Suffragan of the Metropolitan Bishop of Quebec, under the title of Bishop of Telmesse. His successor is the present incumbent, the Right Rev. Ignace Bourget. In place of the Palace, which at present adjoins the Cathedral, contributions are being raised for erecting one on a larger and more imposing scale. In the rear stands the Nunnery of the Sisters of Charity.—The Jail is the chief public building towards the northern extremity of the city. It cost about £30,000. The building consists of three stories, and a fourth in the centre, besides the basement. This contains thirty- two cells for solitary confinement, and the kitchens, bath-rooms, &c. The first story contains the Magistrates’ or Grand Jury-room, Instruction-room, &c., and sixty-four cells. Besides the Gaoler's and Matron’s apartments, the second story contains fifty cells and three day-rooms for prisoners. The third story is entirely occupied ... by thirty-three bedrooms and three day-rooms for debtors. Female prisoners occupy the cells in the back-wings of each story. The chapel surmounts the centre of the third story. It is so constructed that five classes of prisoners, entering by separate stairs, can sit in view of the pulpit, and are prevented from seeing each other. Each of the three wings has a cistern capable of holding ten hundred and seventy-seven gallons. These three cisterns supply the whole estab- lishment with water, and can be filled in forty minutes by means of a forcing-pump, worked by ten of the prisoners, although fixed nearly one hundred feet above the river. We believe that the estab- lishment has not the benefit of a resident chaplain, and that there is an urgent call for improving the moral and religious instruction. of the inmates. The present keeper, Mr. M'Ginn, is well entitled to favourable notice here in consideration of his zealous exertions to better the condition of the depraved and wretched indwellers.-In this direction lie the City Gas-works, the St. Mary Foundry, and the Rope Manufactory. Last year (1848) a New City Gas-work with D CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 39. lege.—The Synagogue is a fine specimen of the Egyptian style of architecture. It is substantially built, and the interior is very hand- somely finished off. Mrs. Frances Michaels contributed £575 to- wards the defrayment of the expenses. It is the only Synagogue in British North America.-Amongst the Public Institutions we notice the University of M*Gill College, the High School, and the Baptist College. The first was endowed from funds arising from a valuable estate at the base of the Mountain (on part of which the buildings are erected) and the sum of £10,000, bequeathed in 1814 in trust to The Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning in Lower Canada by the Hon. James M'Gill, an opulent merchant in this city. For several years the will was contested, so that the Governors, who were incorporated in 1821, did not obtain full possession of the prop- erty until 1828. No religious test is imposed upon professors or students. There are three terms, the ſee for each of which is £3 6s 8d. At present the Medical Staff comprises one Professor, eight Lecturers, and a Demonstrator of Anatomy. The number of students in this department has been on the increase for some years past; and betwixt a dozen and a score graduate yearly. Besides a Professor of Classics there are Lecturers in Botany, Law, French, History and Logic, and Mathematics and Natural Philosophy. The attendance at present holds out better prospects. The Vice-Princi- pal, the Registrar, &c., and the French Lecturer are resident within the College. It is to be hoped that this institution may ere long be rendered really beneficial to the youth of the Lower Province espe- cially. The College occupies a delightful site, and, when completed according to the plans, will form an architectural ornament to the city.—The High School occupies an airy and commanding situation, a little to the south of New St. Andrew’s Church. It was erected in 1845 through the laudable exertions of a number of citizens desir- ous of securing a liberal education for the youth of the middle and upper classes. It is to be hoped that an institution calculated to confer lasting benefits upon the community, and quite unsectarian in its Directory, internal management, and system of instruc- tion, may receive due countenance and support. The atten- dance has averaged upwards of two hundred ; but there is accom- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 41 Shakspeare Club) Reading-rooms well supplied with Provincial and British Newspapers and Periodicals. Some of them possess Mu- seums. The Montreal Library, which was founded in 1796, and contained upwards of six thousand English Works and about two thousand French, was recently gifted to the Mercantile Library Association by the few remanent subscribers.--The Societies for benevolent and religious purposes are too numerous for notice here. —lt has been elsewhere noticed that the Original Burying-ground occupied the present site of the Cathedral and other parts of the French Square. A large extent of ground has been appropriated as a Cemetery for Roman Catholics in the St. Antoine Suburbs. The Cemetery for the Protestant inhabitants was purchased in 1799, and is now in the centre of the city; such has been the increase of popu- lation within half a century. Efforts have been made for some years, but hitherto ineffectually, for appropriating suitable grounds for an extensive cemetery in the vicinity. - No traveller, we hope, will think of leaving Montreal without gratifying himself with a drive round the Mountain, returning by the road between its two ridges. In the course of the drive from the N.W. to the village of Cote des Neiges, he will have a very extensive prospect of the Island of Montreal, that of Isle Jesus, and of the country lying beyond, as well as of the expanse of the Ottawa. As he emerges from the hollow, he has a beautiful panorama of the city with its suburbs, covering an area of above one thousand acres. For many miles above and below, his eyes view the wide St. Lawrence flowing majestically along, and range over a wide intervening land- scape, terminating in the Mountains of Beloeil and Rouville, Mount Johnson, the Green Mountains of Vermont, and those of New York . State. As he descends, he will descry immediately below on the right a conspicuous mansion, surrounded by extensive gardens and orchards, which was formerly known as the Chateau des Seigneurs de Montreal from its belonging to the gentlemen of the Seminary. It is now generally called the Priests' Farm, as several acres of the adjoining land are cultivated as a farm for their benefit. In sum- mer the Seminarists and the professors and pupils of the College re- sort hither weekly for recreation and refreshment. Till of late years D 2 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 45 consequence of some companies of troops being usually stationed here from its important position in commanding the communication • between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence. The Commander of the Forces occupies the Government-cottage, as it is called. The population amounts to about two thousand five hundred. The houses, though generally constructed of wood, are substantial. The Protestant and Catholic churches are of stone. On the opposite shore of the Richelieu are excellent accommodations for ship-build- ing, in which vessels of large tonnage used to be constructed. This branch of trade, however, has not been pursued to the extent that might have been expected. Here most of the Montreal steam- ers are laid up for the winter.—A few miles below William Henry the St. Lawrence widens into its last expansion, called Lake St. Peter. It is about twenty-five miles long, and from five to ten in width. Its upper extremity for about mine miles is studded with numerous islands, some affording excellent pasturage, and others still covered with tall primeval trees. Some of the group belong to Government. On approaching the Lake the stranger can descry, overtopping the islands, the church-spire of Berthier, a village pleasantly situated on the North Channel of the River. From being , midway between Montreal and Three Rivers in the direct route of the stages established on the plan of those in the Mother Country between the Capital and Quebec, and from having well furnished stores for the supply of the neighbouring populous seigniories, it has become a place of considerable resort and traffic. Hence large quantities of grain are annually exported. From its flat situation much damage has been sometimes caused to the basements of the houses and goods in the stores by the melting of the snow and ice in spring. So great has the rise been that it has been necessary to remove large quantities of grain to the upper stories of granaries in order to preserve it from injury. A similar inconvenience happens at Wercheres on the south side. The banks on either side of the Lake are very low,and shoals stretch from them to a considerable distance, so that there is but a narrow passage for shipping from two to three fathoms in depth. This intricate channel is marked off by poles and other beacons. Large sums of money have been expended by CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 47 tributed somewhat to its improvement. At the conquest of the Prov- ince the right of the French king devolved on His Britannic Majesty, and the Forges were leased to private persons who worked them with success. More recently they have passed into the hands of the Honble. James Ferrier, lately Mayor of Montreal, an enterpris– ing citizen. The Foundry, by means of furnaces, forges, smelting- houses, and workshops, manufactures stoves of every description, large caldrons or kettles for pot-ashes, machinery for mills, wheels for rail road-cars, lamp-posts, &c., &c. Large quantities of pig and bar iron are exported. Upwards of three hundred men are em- ployed, and their dwellings present the appearance of a small village. The manager is a Scotchman: the pattern-makers, moulders, and other workmen are Canadians. The ore which is abundant, is equal to the best Swedish. It is singular that hitherto there has not been. found in either province sand suitable for the purpose of casting iron. For this reason the proprietors import from Britain what they use in this operation. The stoves manufactured here are preferred by the habitans to those of any other manufacture. Peltry in small quanti- ties is still brought by the Indians, and received by the Agents of the Hudson's Bay Company. The site of the town and vicinity is flat and sandy. The wharfage is good, admitting ships of large tonnage close to it. The streets are narrow, of which the principal one, Notre Dame, runs the whole length of the town, nearly parallel with the River. The Ursuline Convent was founded in 1677 by the then Bishop of Quebec. It has a Superior and twenty-four nuns. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1806, but, from the high estimation in which the Ursulines were held, it was rebuilt and re-oc- cupied in 1808. A decided improvement in the construction of pri- vate residences has taken place. The court-house,gaol, barracks, and churches are substantial buildings of stone. In this town there are about one hundred of the Algonquin tribe of Indians in a state of great poverty. On the St. Maurice there are nearly as many of the Tête de Boule tribe in a similar condition. Three Rivers has a popu- lation of upwards offive thousand, and sends a member to the Legis- lative Assembly. We beg to refer the tourist to the Appendix for an account of the scenery of the St. Maurice and in particular of that of 48 CANADIAN GUIDE Book. * the Falls of the Shewinagam and Grande Mère.—Nearly opposite to Three Rivers, the Becancour, after a course of about seventy miles, joins the St. Lawrence. A little above the village of Becancour, which lies to the east, is a settlement of Abenaquais Indians, occu- pying a few acres of land and three islands. They only amount to about one hundred, and in their customs and occupations are quite similar to those at St. Francis—A few miles below on the left bank is Batiscan, at the mouth of the river of that name. Six miles up on its east side is a foundry of the same description with that on the St. Maurice, but on a much smaller scale. It is the property of several individuals. It is proper to remark that, without almost a single ex- ception, the numerous tributaries of the St. Lawrence from the top of Lake St. Peter to Quebec are rendered unnavigable on account of falls and rapids. These tributaries used to be crossed by means of canoes and scows kept by ferry-men at a somewhat high charge for the transport of passengers, carriages, &c. Of late years, how- ever, a great improvement has taken place in this respect, as the post-road is now generally continued across these ancient ferries by means of the substantial wooden bridges that have been construct- ed.—The village of Ste. Anne next appears on the same side, to the east of the river of that name. Here the large District of Quebec commences on both sides of the St. Lawrence.—The steamer is now approaching the Richelieu Rapids, which extend for upwards of eight miles. These are about equally distant between Three Rivers and Quebec. Here the channel is so contracted that the navigation is rendered very hazardous except at particular periods of the tide. During this passage may frequently be seen a considerable fleet of vessels of various classes lying at the mouth of the Portneuf, for the purpose of receiving freights of flour and timber from the extensive grist and saw-mills beautifully situated in a hollow near the main road. During low water, vessels, in passing up and down, usually anchor here. In this way Portneuf presents a bustling appearanee. —Eastwards the banks gradually increase in elevation until at Cap Santé they are one hundred and fifty feet above the River. The Church, standing on the point of the Cape, cannot fail to attract the stranger's notice. This Church, with its three spires, is distin- 52 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. ble for vessels of a large size in the world. From its mouth in the Gulf to Quebec is three hundred and sixty miles, and European vessels ascend to Montreal, which is one hundred and eighty miles higher up. The river is about a mile in breadth in front of the city, and about thirty fathoms (one hundred and eighty ſeet) in depth. Good anchorage is everywhere found.—We would recommend the stranger, as soon as he finds himself in readiness to proceed from his lodgings for the purpose of enjoying the scenery of Quebec and its environs, to visit in the first place the Citadel, and place himself near to the flag staff. His interest will be more correctly gratified, if he be accompanied by an individual conversant with the surrounding localities and their associations. The Citadel, which surmounts the summit of Cape Diamond, is three hundred and fifty feet above the River, and includes about forty acres. This fortress, admitted as un- equalled by any military work on this Continent, and as second to few of the most celebrated fortresses in the Old World, has been frequent- ly and appropriately called the “Gibraltar of America.” Hence is commanded a coup d'acil, which American and European travellers have pronounced unsurpassed in the New and Old Worlds. The view embraces the opposite banks of the majestic river for forty miles up and down, backed by extensive plains receding to lofty moun- tains in the distance, the Island of Orleans between its shores, and on either hand the lively village of Pointe Levy and that of Beau- port, whilst the Great River and the St. Charles unite in form- ing the magnificent basin, on whose bosom vessels of every size are continually floating. Here the position of the City, on the tongue of land formed by these two rivers, is well seen. The Cape is com- posed of dark-coloured slate, in which are found in veins quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, and hence arose the name of Cape Diamond. A walk along the ramparts above the Esplanade is a delightful promenade. Hence the eyes rest on the small group of hills,forming the portal to the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson’s Bay. It is worthy of remark here, that the lower range of mountains seen from Quebec is the boundary to civilization in this direction. The St. Charles is seen to most advantage at sun set, when its shores, studded with - - - - --- --- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 55 for holding the Quarter-Sessions and other inferior Courts, offices of Clerks of the different Courts, &c. &c. Above there is a spacious chamber, in which are held the Courts of Queen’s Bench and Com- mon Pleas, the Court of Appeals, and the Admiralty Court. There are also offices for the High Sheriff and other magistrates, and a room for occasional Militia Courts-martial. It occupies, like the En- glish Church, part of the site on which stood a monastery and church of the Recollets, which were destroyed by fire in 1796,-We shall now briefly allude to such public edifices as seem worthy of notice from their antiquity or interesting associations.—The Castle of St. Louis was built shortly after the city was fortified with solid works, and comprised four acres, once fortified; but the great extension of the works rendered the walls superfluous, and they were allowed to go to decay. Here was the residence of the Representative of the Crown, while Quebec continued the Seat of Government. The Castle was entirely consumed by fire in 1834.—The chief religious edifice is the Roman Catholic Cathedral. It was built under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, and was consecrated in 1666 under the title of the Immaculate Conception. It is two hun- dred and sixteen feet long by one hundred and eighty in breadth, and stands on ground belonging to the Fabrique, or Church land. It is divided into a nave and two aisles. At the upper end of the former is the grand altar; and in the side aisles are four chapels, dedicated to different saints. It is dedicated to Notre Dame de Victoire, and can accommodate about four thousand persons.—Adjoining stands the Seminary, forming three sides of a square, and occupying with its attached buildings a large space of ground. It was founded and endowed in 1663 by Monseigneur de Laval de Montmo- rency, first Bishop of Canada. During his life-time the buildings were twice burnt to the ground. Having resigned his Bishopric, he passed the last twenty years of his life within the Seminary. This in- stitution was originally intended for the instruction of the Catholic Clergy exclusively. The early regulations have long ago been set aside; and students of the Catholic persuasion, intended for any profession, are instructed in the different branches of literary and scientific knowledge, on paying the trifling sum of 5s, annually for defraying CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 57 outcasts, to the number of fourteen and twenty-five respectively, were most hospitably sheltered for the space of three weeks under the roof of the Hospitalières, or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. Within the precincts of the Convent are interred the remains of the gallant Marquis de Montcalm, who was mortally wounded in the eventful battle on the Plains of Abraham in 1759. Lord Aylmer, Governor- in-Chief, caused a marble slab with an appropriate inscription to be erected to his memory in the Chapel. The Chapel contains about a dozen paintings which may be examined on application to the Chaplain. Those within the Convent are not open to the public. This establishment is usually visited by strangers, who, on making application to the Roman Catholic Bishop, will receive the necessary introduction or permission.—On the arrival of some of the Jesuits in Canada in 1635, they erected a suitable habitation, the de- struction of which a few years afterwards made way for their spacious Monastery. It was forfeited on the suppression of that order, and at the conquest was regarded as Crown property. ſt was formerly surrounded by extensive gardens, which were then destroyed and converted into a place of exercise for the troops. The citizens with much regret saw felled to the ground the stately trees, yet untouched by decay, that had been the primeval tenants of the site at the foundation of the city.—The elegant build- ing denominated the Bishop’s Palace, standing on an elevated spot, is very conspicuous, and originally had a chapel connected therewith. The Bishop having accepted an annuity in lieu of it, the Government fitted it up for the accommodation of the two branches of the Legislature, by whom it continued to be used until the re- moval of the Seat of Government.--The Quebec Library, a valuable collection of books numbering upwards of six thousand volumes, is also in this building. It was founded in 1779 during the administra- tion of General Haldimand, who liberally contributed one hundred volumes of valuable works towards its formation. This building contains the Museum of the Literary and Historical Society, which was founded in 1824, and united in 1829 to that for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences. The Mineralogical and Botanical collections are said to be valuable. The apartments are open to the public 60 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Dr. Spark, who died in 1819. In 1821 it was found inadequate for the accommodation of the members, when the Earl of Dalhousie was pleased to grant an additional space of ground, on which the presently enlarged church, which was completed in 1824, and . a comfortable manse for the Minister, now stand. The Church accommodates thirteen hundred sitters.—In St. Francis Street stands St. John’s Church, previously a Congregational Chapel. It was erected in 1816. In 1830 the Congregation, having con- formed to the doctrine, discipline, and laws of the Church of Scotland, received the ministrations of a regularly ordained clergy- man of that church. At the disruption of the Scottish Establish- ment, a majority of the Congregation connected themselves with the Free Church of Scotland.—The Wesleyan Methodists have two Chapels, one in St. Anne Street, and the other in St. Louis Suburb, called the “Centenary Chapel”. The Lower Town extends along the base of the precipice on the summit of which the Upper Town is built. The site is almost entirely the creation of human industry, having been gained by ex- cavation from the base of the precipice, or redeemed from the River by building out into its waters. The towns are connected by Mountain Street, which was formerly almost impassable for carri- ages. Foot passengers avail themselves of the shorter passage, po- pularly known as the Break-neck Stairs. The wharves are very extensive, and are generally carried out upwards of two hundred yards into the River. The Chapel (Secoursale, i. e. in aid of the Parish Church,) standing in the Square, is of great antiquity, as it was built and used as a church before 1690. In that year Sir Wm. Phipps in attempting to capture Quebec was defeated; and the Féte of Notre Dame de Victoire was instituted for annual celebra- tion in this church on the 7th of October. After the shipwreck of the English fleet in 1711, which was regarded by the inhabitants not only as a second victory but as a miraculous interposition in their favour, the church received its present name of Notre Dame des Victoires, that both events might be commemorated at once.—We may here notice the other Roman Catholic Churches, viz. that of the Congregation, on the hill leading from the Esplanade and St. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 6i John's Gate, and that in the populous suburb of St. Roch. The former is perfectly plain in the interior, while the latter is well finish- ed and has several paintings. Among them is one of Bishop Plessis, a great benefactor to this Church.--Another is also in course of erection in St. John’s Suburbs, equal in size to the Cathedral.—St. Patrick’s occupies an area of one hundred and thirty-six by fifty- two feet. Its corner-stone was laid in the fall of 1831, and was opened for religious service on the first Sabbath of July, 1833. The steeple is well proportioned, and stands one hundred and twenty feet from the ground to the ball supporting the cross. The interior is calculated to strike the beholder with religious awe and admir- ation.—The Quebec Exchange dates its first institution in 1817. In 1822 it was removed from the house in St. Peter Street, in which it was established, to a handsome room in the new building erected by the Fire Assurance Company. The present commodious edifice of cut stone was erected in 1828-9, and has answered the sanguine expectations of the Proprietors. The second-floor is “where the merchants most do congregate”, and is devoted to the Reading- room, which is admirably conducted ; the upper part contains the rooms of the Board of Trade, and the Telegraph Office. The Quebec Bank, which was established in 1818 and incorporated in 1822, occupies the lower story of the handsome edifice built by the Quebec Fire Assurance Company, whose office is on the second story. —In this part of the Lower Town are the Branch Agencies of the Bank of Montreal, Bank of British North America, and Montreal City Bank.--The King’s Wharf,which is appropriated to the purposes of Government, has on it extensive stores belonging to the Com- missariat Department, which were erected in 1821. Here land and embark the officers of the Army and Navy, the troops, &c. —The building formerly used as a Custom House adjoins on the west. Nearly opposite to this there anciently stood a barrier, where the two ways diverge, one to the steps leading to the Upper Town, and the other to the Harbour. Near this spot the American General, Montgomery, and other officers, were killed during a daring attack upon the Lower Town by the discharge of a F * CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 63 * through the noble exertions of the 43rd and 89th Regiments, then composing the Garrison, and of part of the Royal Artillery. The appeals of the Committee of the Quebec Relief Fund were nobly responded to, not only by the Mother Country and the Sister Pro- vinces, but by the Colonies generally and by the United States. A sum, amounting, we believe, to nearly £100,000, was thus raised, and the sufferers were enabled to rebuild their houses in many in- stances in a more substantial manner than before. The Corporation enjoined the use of bricks and stone instead of wood for the walls, and of tin instead of shingles for the roofs.--We may notice here a few things that could not be properly introduced elsewhere, The city was incorporated in 1832, and for municipal purposes is divided into six wards. Each ward is represented by two members of the Council, from whom the Mayor is annually chosen. There are six Aldermen, and the following standing Committees, for By- laws, Elections, Finance, Fire, Markets, Police (including Lighting and Watching), Public Health, and Roads. The Court of King's Bench for the Quebec District comprises one Chief Justice and three Puisné Judges. The Criminal Court sits for ten days in March and September. The Superior Court sits four times a year for twenty days each time. The District Court has jurisdiction in cases over C6 5s to £20 sterling. The Division Court has jurisdiction in cases o the amount of £6 5s sterling. Each of the Districts of Gaspé and St. Francis has a Provincial Judge, and that of Three Rivers a Resident Judge, aided by a Sheriff, Prothonotary, Coroner, and High Constable. Steam communication between Quebec and Montreal commenced in November, 1812. The Swiſtsure was the first Steamboat between the two cities. In 1816 the Malsham was added, and in 1819 the Telegraph. The communication by steam, after the breaking-up of the ice each season, generally takes place in ..he latter half of April; and the first arrivals of Ships from Sea ºn the Port of Quebec generally take place in the last week of April ºr in the first week of May. It seems proper to give an abstract of the relative population, &c., of the County of Quebec, according to the census of May 1st, 1844. At that date the entire population amounted to 45,676. Of hese there were 64 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. º Canadians of French origin . - - . 27,698 Do. Of British do. - - - - . 7,734 Natives of Ireland . . . . . 7,267 Do. of England . - - • * . 1,598 Do. of Scotland . - - - - . 981 - Continent of Europe or otherwise . - - 276 United States - . • - - - e . 122 45,676 Belonging to Church of Rome . - - 36,371 Do. do. England . . . 5,494 Do. do. Scotland . - - 2,569 Wesleyan Methodists - - - - - 877 Congregationalists e • - - - i80 Presbyterians not in connection with ; 123 the Church of Scotland - - Baptists and Anabaptists - - - - 29 Jews - - - - - - - - 13 Quakers . • • - - - - 8 Lutherans e • - • • - - 3 45,676 The population of the city and suburbs amounts to 42,860; banlieu, 2797. Having brought under the Tourist's notice the principal features within the city of Quebec that seem worthy of his attention, we propose now to accompany him in a few excursions to the surrounding country. A morning’s ramble to the Plains of Abraham would not fail to recal historical recollections and to gratify a taste for beautiful scenery. On leaving the St. Louis Gate, let him ascend the coun- terscarp on the left, that leads to the Glacis of the Citadel ; and hence pursuing a direction to the right, let him approach one of the Martello Towers, whence he may enjoy a beautiful view of the St. Lawrence. A little beyond let him ascend the right bank, and he reaches the celebrated Plains of Abraham near the spot where General Wolfe ſell. On the highest ground, surrounded by wooden fences, can be clearly traced out the redoubt where he received the - - - -- - - - - - CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 69 Christianity, on which the world has not yet created that contagious air which corrupts it, and which is frequently attended with acts of the most heroic virtue. Nothing can be more affecting than to hear them sing in two choirs, the men on one side, and the women on the other, the prayers and hymns of the church in their own ianguage, * * * * This village has been formerly much better peopled, but distempers, and I know not what causes, which insensibly reduce to nothing all the nations of this continent, have greatly diminished the number of its inhabitants. Intoxicating liquors, the most common, and almost the sole, stumbling-block which is able to cause the savages to fall off, are prohibited by a solemn vow, the breach of which is subjected to a public penance, as well as every other fault which occasions scandal: and a relapse is generally sufficient to banish the criminal, without any hopes of return, from a place which ought to be the impregnable fortress and sacred asylum of piety and innocence. * * * * We are here surrounded by the vastest woods in the world; in all appearance they are as ancient as the world itself, and were never planted by the hands of man. Nothing can present a nobler or more magnificent prospect to the eyes; the trees hide their tops in the clouds; and the variety of the different species of them is so prodigious that, even amongst all those who have most applied themselves to the knowledge of them, there is not perhaps one who is not ignorant of at least one half of them.”—On arriving at Lake St. Charles, by embarking in a double canoe, the tourist will have his taste for picturesque mountain scenery gratified in a high degree. The lake is four miles long and one broad, and is divided into two parts by projecting ledges. The lake abounds in trout, so that the angling tourist may find this spot doubly inviting. On the route back to the city the village of Charlesbourg is passed. It is one of the oldest and most interesting settlements in Canada. It has two churches, one of which is the centre of the surrounding farms, whence they all radiate. The reason for this singular dis- posal of the allotments arose from the absolute necessity of creating a neighbourhood. For this purpose each farm was permitted to occupy only a space of three acres in front by thirty in depth. Pop- ulation was in these days scanty, and labourers were difficult to be - CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 71 against fire and missiles of every descriptton. On the top of Dal- housie Bastion is an extensive covered way, or broad gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, commanding every part of the Ditch and Glacis, and every avenue of approach to the Citadel. From this elevated spot is obtained an extensive and delightful view of the surrounding scenery, forming a panorama that competent- judges have pronounced not inferior to the celebrated Bay of Naples, An equally magnificent view is obtained from the summit of the Cavalier, on which stands the Telegraph, at the eastern extremity of the Citadel, and also from the Observatory on its western point towards the Plains of Abraham. Within the Citadel are the various magazines, storehouses, and other buildings required for the accom- modation of a numerous Garrison ; and, immediately overhanging , the precipice to the south, in a most picturesque situation looking perpendicularly downwards on the River, stands a beautiful row of buildings, containing the mess rooms and barracks for the officers, their stables and spacious kitchens. The fortifications, which are continued round the whole of the Upper Town, consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty-five feet in height and about the same in thick- ness, bristling with heavy cannon, round towers, loopholed walls, and massive gates recurring at certain distances. On the summit of the Ramparts from Cape Diamond to the Artillery Barracks is a broad covered-way or walk, used as a place of recreation by the in- habitants, and commanding a most agreeable view of the country towards the west. This passes over the top of St. John’s and St. Louis Gate, where there is stationed a sergeant's guard. Above St. John’s Gate there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The St. Charles gamboling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg until it fades away beyond the lofty moun- tains of Bonhomme and Tsounonlhuan, present an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendour.—The city, being defended on the land side by its ramparts, is protected on the other sides by a lofty wall and parapet, based on the cliff and commencing near the St. Charles at the Artillery Barracks. These form a very entensive 72 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. range of buildings, the part within the Artillery-Gate being occupied as barracks by the officers and men of that distinguished corps, with a guard and mess room. The part without the Gate is used as magazines, storehouses, and offices for the Ordnance Department. These buildings were erected by the French before 1750 on the site of others which had formerly stood there. They are well secured against fire, and are nearly six hundred feet in length by about forty in depth.-Immediately adjoining the Artillery Barracks, and con- necting the works on the left with their continuation along the St Charles, stands Palace-Gate, having a guard-house attached on the right. This has lately been rebuilt, and is the most classical and beautiful of the five Gates. Though perfectly strong for all purposes of defence, it has an airy and light appearance, not unlike in design the gates of Pompeii. It stands at the northern extremity of Palace Street, which was so called from its leading to the Intendant’s House or Palace, which formerly stood on the beach of the St. Charles out- side of the Gate, on the site of the present Queen's Woodyard. This building was destroyed during the siege by the American troops un- der General Arnold in 1775. From Palace-Gate the fortifications are continued along the brow of the cliff overlooking the mouth of the St. Charles until they reach Hope-Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and level walk divides the outward wall from the possessions of the Community of the Hotel-Dieu. The wall near Hope-Gate and Guard-house is loopholed for musquetry. At Hope-Gate com- mences the gradual elevation of the ground which terminates at the eastern point of Cape Diamond. Beyond the Gate the wall is con- tinued until it reaches a point opposite St. George Street and the store house at the angle of the Seminary Garden. Here it reaches the perpendicular cliff Sault au Matelot, or Matelot’s (Sailor’s) Leap, so called from a favourite dog of that name that there fell over the cliff, on part of which Champlain commenced his first settlement in 1608. From this eminence the Grand Battery, mounting a range of heavy guns carrying balls of thirty-two pounds, commands the Basin and Harbour below. In front of the Grand Battery, which extends to the Bishop's Palace, and where the escarpment of the cliff is nearly three hundred feet above the water, the stone parapet w CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 73 is but a few feet high. The black artillery, as Professor Silliman observes, “ look like beasts of prey crouching and ready to leap upon their victims.”—Close to the Bishop’s Palace, long used as the place where the Provincial Legislature met previously to the re- union of the Canadas, is Prescott-Gate with its Guard-house. Under its arch is the principal avenue to the Lower Town by Mountain Street. It is protected by powerful defences, and by works which connect it on the right with the former Castle of St. Louis. Here the stone-rampart forms part of that ruin, and is supported by but- tresses built upon the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the Lower Town, at an elevation of more than two hundred feet. To the south-west side of the Castle is the Government Garden, one hun- dred and eighty yards long by seventy broad, within which a small bat- tery commands part of the harbour. In front the fortifications are continued three hundred yards, until they reach the foot of the Glacis or acclivity towards Cape Diamond, crowned at that point by the Round Tower and Flagstaff—The extent of the Ramparts towards the land-side, from the south-west angle of the citadel to the cliff above the St. Charles, is stated to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards. Within this rampart is the Esplanade, a level space covered with grass, between St. Louis and St. John Gates. Here are mount- ed the several guards on duty at the Citadel and other public build- ings each forenoon, except Sabbath, at eleven o’clock; and here occasional parades of the Garrison take place, particularly on the Queen’s birth-day. The circuit of the Fortifications enclosing the Upper Town is two miles and three quarters; the total circumfer- ence outside the Ditches and space reserved by Government, on which no house can be built on the west side, is about three miles. —Generally speaking, the City may be said to be entirely surround- ed by a lofty and strong wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as with regard to durability. The castellated ap- pearance produced by the battlements, ditches, embrasures, round towers and gates, adds much to its grand and imposing effect from without. There are five Gates, opening in different directions to the country, the suburbs, and the Lower Town. Towards the south-west are St. John’s and St. Louis’ Gates, protected by out- - G 78 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. visitors to the shrine. The walls display crutches and other helps to suffering humanity, with which the halt and the lame were enabled to dispense, and which they left as memorials of the efficacy of their faith in the power of the Saint . In connection with St. Anne it may be stated, that pigeons in vast numbers yearly visit Canada, when the inhabitants not only get an ample supply for their own subsistence, but send such numbers to market that in Quebec they are sold at as low a price as a shilling per dozen, and sometimes even at a less rate. The parishioners of St. Anne are much spoken of for the successful means which they have adopted for killing and taking alive thousands of these birds; and the stranger on enquiry can learn the method by which the sportsman seldom fails to bring down all the pigeons as they settle on the loftiest trees, and how, by means of perpendicular nets and poles managed by pulleys, whole flocks are entrapped. Two miles beyond the village of St. Anne, at the Toll-bridge on the river of this name, the Tourist may be com- fortably accommodated, and will meet with civility and kindness. Hence he can procure a guide to the Falls, which are situated about three miles farther on. The ascent commands extensive views of Quebec and the surrounding country. After continuing his journey for a mile and a half on a level but rather rough and wearisome path through a forest, the Tourist suddenly descends and finds himself enclosed in a rocky and wooded valley, through the centre of which rushes the St. Anne, and, forcing itself through a narrow chasm of the rocks at an angle of forty-five degrees, continues to roar and tumble to the River below. We cannot afford space here for a description of the variety of awfully grand and imposing scenes, which a visit to these magnificent Falls will present to the Tourist’s view. Suffice it to say, that the time slips unconsciously away, and, surprised by the information that he has been on the spot for hours, he at length reluctantly turns away, consoling himself with the re- flection that he can never efface the sublime picture from his mind. The Tourist should now cross from Quebec to Pointe Levi, with which a steam-ferry-boat keeps up a half-hourly commu- nication, with the view of visiting the Falls of the Chaudiere, distant about eight miles. On ascending the bank, and from different CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 81. war, played by the most skilful hands, and for the noblest stake : The scene of this heroic drama, the actors, and the event will be for ever memorable. The tale has been handed down by various writers; but to do justice to the narration it requires the pen of Wolfe himself. Wolfe, having safely landed his army on the 27th June near the Church of St. Laurent on the Isle of Orleans, where they encamped in one line about a mile from the shore, proceeded to the west end of the Island to reconnoitre the position of the enemy. The view he then beheld was most magnificent and imposing. The French army ex- tended along the sloping ground upon the north shore, and occupied the heights of Beauport from Quebec on the right to the Cascades of Montmorenci on the left. The village of Beauport rose in the centre among the battalions of old France; the right rested upon the St. Charles with the beautiful village of Charlesbourg in its rear; the left extended to the chasm at the Falls. The whole front was entrenched, and protected from the English cannon, while all accessible points along the shore were occupied and defended by batteries and by every means which the science of war provides. Beyond the right a bridge had been thrown over the St. Charles in order to communicate with the town and garrison. This was protect- ed by tetes du poni and strong works at each end, as well as by two batteries, of eight guns each, mounted upon hulks sunk in the chans nel. The French army was composed of about thirteen thousand men, six battalions of which were regulars, and the remainder well disciplined Canadian militia with some cavalry and Indians. The right was under the command of Brigadier General the Baron de St. Ours, the centre, of Brigadier General De Senezergues, and the left of M. Herbin. The garrison was commanded by M. De Ramezay. Although the Fleet had safely arrived at the place of disem- barkation, no sooner were the troops on shore than it met with one of those storms of wind and rain which are frequent in the St. Lawrence. The hurricane was of such violence as to do great, damage to the transports and boats of the fleet by their driving on board each other. 82 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. It being absolutely necessary for the combined operations of the two services that the English should possess the command of the basin, General Monckton, second in command, was detached on the º the 29th with four battalions, with orders to land at Beaumont, and to clear the south shore from that village to Pointe- Lévi, which post he was to occupy and fortify, a duty which he accomplished with little opposition. Here he erected batteries and works, the remains of which may be traced at the present day. In the meantime Colonel Guy Carleton, afterwards Lord Dorchester, established himself at the western point of the Isle of Orleans, where he erected works for the defence of the magazines, stores, and hospitals. Montcalm, who too late perceived the importance of the works at Pointe Levi, sent a corps of sixteen hundred men against them; but these troops, unluckily for themselves and for the English Gen- eral, who was anxious to defeat so large a detachment, fell into confusion, and, having fired upon each other instead of upon the enemy, returned in utter discomfiture. General Wolfe, perceiving that the ground to the eastward of the Fall of Montmorenci, on which rested the left flank of the French army, was higher than that on the enemy’s side, determined to take possession of it; and, having passed the North Channel, he encamped there on the 9th July, not without severe skirmishing and considerable loss. Here he erected batteries which greatly galled the left of the entrenchments, and conceived the design of attacking the French in their entrenchments. This attack, which, looking at the difficulties of the ground, appears to have been carefully con- sidered and planned with judgment, took place on the 31st July. It failed through want of caution and excess of courage on the part of the grenadiers, although the grounding of the boats upon the ledge, some distance from the shore, was doubtless the primary cause of the disaster. The return of our loss at the battle of Montmorenci is stated to have been one hundred and eighty-two killed and six hundred and fifty wounded. The failure at Montmorenci had made a deep impression upon the mind of Wolfe. He had a spirit impatient of anticipated cen- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 83 sure, unable to bear disappointment where he was conscious of having deserved success, and he cherished an eager desire to retrieve the laurels which he feared some might think had fallen from his brow. His situation, however, was such that he despaired of find- ing an opportunity; he was often heard to sigh, and observed to betray great inward agitation. His constitution, naturally delicate, gave way under his excitement: which, added to the great fatigues he had undergone, brought on a fever and dysentery, and, for some time totally disabled him. Such was the affection of the whole army for "Wolfe that his sickness made a general impression upon them; and, when his health, after ten day’s severe illness, permitted him to return to the camp, and once more to visit the guards and posts as usual, they gave the strongest proofs of the most heartfelt joy ; and his presence infused fresh spirits into the troops. Every preparation having been made, and Admiral Saunders having engaged to co-operate by a feigned attack upon the intrench- ments at Beauport, the eventful day approached when the blow was to be struck. Rear Admiral Holmes had the command of the naval force employed in covering the disembarkation, the immediate man- agement of which was entrusted to Captain Chads, a name to this day distinguished in the Royal Navy. On the 12th September Gen. Wolfe issued the following order: “On board His Majesty's ship Sutherland. “The enemy’s force is now divided : great scarcity of provi- sions is in their camp, and universal discontent among the Canadians. The second officer in command is gone to Montreal, or St. John’s ; which gives reason to think that General Amherst is advancing into the colony. A vigorous blow struck by the army at this juncture may determine the fate of Canada. Our troops below are in readi- mess to join us ; all the light artillery and tools are embarked at Pointe Levi ; and the troops will land where the French seem least to expect it. The first body that gets on shore is to march directly to the enemy, and drive them from any little post they may occupy. The officers must be careful that the succeeding bodies do not by any mistake fire upon those who go before them. The battalions CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 85 the 13th, they arrived at a cove below Sillery, now for ever celebrat- ed as Wolfe's Cove, which was the place chosen for the disem- barkation. The light infantry, which had been carried a short distance below by the rapidity of the tide, were the first that landed, and, scrambling up the woody precipice, the ascent of which was so difficult that the soldiers were obliged to pull themselves up by the roots and boughs of trees, displaced a French guard at the top under the command of Captain De Verger, which defended the narrow path, and thereby enabled the rest of the division to reach the summit. The boats in the meantime had returned for the second division tinder Brigadier General Townshend, which arrived and land- ed in like good order. General Wolfe was with the first division, and he was one of the first on shore. On seeing the difficulty of ascending the precipice, he observed in a familiar strain to Captain Donald M*Donald, a very gallant officer of Fraser’s Highlanders, who commanded the advanced guard of the light infantry:—“I don’t believe there is any possibility of getting up; but you must do your endeavour.” The exultation of Wolfe on thus finding himself, with scarcely any loss, on the heights of Abraham, may easily be conceived. After more than two months of solicitude the object of his long and anxious wishes was before him ; his only remaining hope was that Montcalm would give him battle ; of the result he entertained no doubt. The hour of triumph so long sought for, so eagerly expected, was at hand; he was determined that day to decide the supremacy of England or France, in America, before the walls of her most im- portant fortress. the attle of the plains or ABRAHAM-DEATH OF WOLFE AND MONTCALM. Any one who visits the celebrated Plains of Abraham, the scene of this glorious fight, equally rich in natural beauty and historic recollections, will admit that no site could be found better adapted for displaying the evolutions of military skill and discipline, or the exertion of physical force and determined valour. The battle-ground presents almost a level surface from the brink of the St. Lawrence to the St. Foy road. The Grand Allee, or road to Cap Rouge, H 88 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, having thrown the French into confusion, orders were given, even be. fore the smoke cleared away, to charge with the bayonet. Wolfe, ex- posing himself at the head of the battalions, was singled out by some Canadian marksmen on the enemy’s left, and had already received a slight wound in the wrist. Regardless of this, and unwilling to dispirit his troops, he folded a handkerchief round his arm,and, putting himself at the head of the Grenadiers, led them on to the charge, which was completely successful. It was bought however with the life of their heroic leader. He was struck with a second ball in the groin, but still pressed on ; and, just as the enemy were about to give way, he received a third ball in his breast and fell mortally wounded. Dear, indeed, was the price of a victory purchased by the death of Wolfe, of a hero whose uncommon merit was scarcely known and appreciated by his country before a premature fate removed him for ever from her service. He met, however, a glorious death in the moment of victory, a victory which, in deciding the fate of Canada, commanded the ap- plause of the world, and classed Wolfe among the most celebrated Generals of ancient and modern times. Happily, he survived his wound long enough to learn the success of the day. When the fatal ball took effect, his principal care was, that he should not be seen to fall. “Support me,” said he to an officer near him, “let not my brave soldiers see me drop. The day is ours, keep it!” He was then carried a little way to the rear, where he requested water to be brought from a neighbouring well to quench his thirst. The charge still continued, when the officer, on whose shoulder the dying hero leaned, exclaimed, “They run! they run º’ “Who run ?” asked the gallant Wolfe with some emotion. The officer replied, “The enemy, Sir: they give way everywhere !” “What,” said he, “do they run already? Pray, one of you go to Colonel Burton, and tell him to march Webb’s regiment with all speed down to St. Charles River, to cut off the retreat of the fugitives from the bridge. Now God be praised, I die happy l’” So saying, the youthful hero breathed his last. He reflected that he had done his duty, and he knew that he should live forever in the memory of a grateful country. His expiring moments were cheered with the British shout of victory. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 89 Such was the death of Wolfe upon the Plains of Abraham, at the early age of thirty-two years It has been well observed, that “death, more glorious and attended with circumstances more pic- turesque and interesting, is no where to be found in the annals of history.” His extraordinary qualities, and singular fate, have af- ſorded a fruitful theme of panegyric to the historian and the poet to the present day. How they were appreciated by his gallant com- panions in arms, may be learned by the subjoined extract from a letter written after the battle by General, afterwards Marquess, Townshend to one of his friends in England: “I am not ashamed to own to you that my heart does not exult in the midst of this suc- cess. I have lost but a friend in General Wolfe, our country has lost a sure support, and a perpetual honour. If the world were sensi- ble at how dear a price we have purchased Quebec in his death, it would damp the public joy. Our best consolation is that Provi- dence seemed not to promise that he should remain long among us. He was himself sensible of the weakness of his constitution, and de- termined to crowd into a few years actions that would have adorned length of life.” The feeling and affecting manner in which Wolfe is spoken of in this letter, and its elegance of expression, confer equal honour upon the head and heart of the accomplished writer. The spot consecrated by the fall of General Wolfe in the charge made by the Grenadiers upon the left of the French line, will to the latest day be visited with deep interest and emotion. A few years ago His Excellency Lord Aylmer, then Governor- in-Chief, caused a small pillar to be erected on the spot with the following inscription : HERE I) IED W. O. L. F. E. VICTORIOUS. This memorial has been sadly mutilated; we trust, however, ere long it will give place to a more enduring memento, such as an iron pillar cast from some of the old cannon. - Montcalm received his fatal.wound in the front rank of the French left, and died at five o'clock on the morning of the 14th Sep- tember. He was buried in an excavation made by the bursting of a H 2 CANADIAN GUIDE Book. 91 The news of the failure of Wolfe at Montmorenci reached England on the morning of the 16th October. It was made known to the public in an extraordinary Gazette of that date, and caused a general gloom, The satisfaction with which they received the glorious accounts of victory brought by Colonel Hale, on the same evening with the publication of the Gazette, may be well imagined. A day of pub- lic thanksgiving was set apart by authority for the signal success of His Majesty’s arms. The House of Commons addressed His Majesty to erect a national monument to the memory of Wolfe in Westminster Abbey, which was carried into effect, and to this day remains an object of patriotic interest and exultation." We take it for granted that our Tourist has no intention of terminating his tour with Quebec and its interesting scenery. For our own part, speaking from experience, we can assure him that a visit to the river Saguenay, unquestionably one of the most remark- able in many respects on this continent, will amply repay him for the money, time, and trouble which he may expend in it. With the view of accomplishing this object, he will do well to ascertain on landing at Quebec how soon the steamer may start, which makes occasional trips to the Rivière du Loup and the Saguenay, that he may so arrange his excursions for a few days around the city as not to let slip this most convenient way of visiting the grand scenery of On the Coffin to the left is the following:— The Homble. Lieutenant Genl. E D WA R D W O L FE, Died March 26th, 1759, Aged 74 Years. The vault was in perfect order, and no appearance of decay could be observed on the Coffins, save the ravages of the moth. Not a word was spoken, and all stood uncovered. Before retiring we placed a wreath of laurel upon the Coffin, and deposited in the vault a copy of the Quebec Mercury, of 21st November, 1839, containing a list of subscribers to our engraving commemorating the glorious victory and death.—A. Hawkins. * Here terminate our extracts from Hawkins’s valuable work on Quebec, of which every traveller should possess himselſ. 92 CANADIAN GUIDE Book. the noblest tributary of the St. Lawrence. If our Tourist should be of an accommodating spirit, desirous of adventures by land and flood, and of studying the characters of the Canadian people, he will find little difficulty in striking a bargaiſ, with some skipper, and transferring his luggage on board some one of the smacks or schooners that trade to and from the Saguenay. In sailing down the basin, which is between three and four miles wide, one cannot fail to be struck with the imposing appearance of the Citadel-city with its tin-covered cupolas, domes, and roofs. This capacious basin is in some places twenty-eight fathoms deep; and its water has no saline taste, although the spring-tide ordinarily rises from seventeen to eighteen feet, and the neap-tide from thirteen to fourteen. About five miles below the city the River is divided into the North and South Channels by the Isle of Orleans, which is nearly twenty miles long and about five broad. Like the island of Montreal, it forms a county. It is next to it in size, and approaches it in fertility of soil, furnishing Quebec with large quantities of grain and most sorts of provisions. Its fruits, especially apples and plums, though attain- ing to a greater degree of perfection than elsewhere in the District of Quebec, are inferior to those of Montreal. It was originally called the Isle of Bacchus from the number of wild vines. A good road encompasses the whole island, and several cross it. It contains five parishes, three of which are watered by the South Channel. The churches and tidy villages of St. Laurent and St. Jean are situated close upon the shore. Patrick’s Hole, a little to the west of the former, is a well sheltered cove, where outward-bound vessels frequently come to anchor, and wait final instructions for sailing. The highest part of the island is just above Patrick's Hole, about four miles from the western extremity. On the south side of this elevation is placed the second of the chain of thirteen telegraphs that during the last war extended from Quebec to Green Island, which lies opposite to the mouth of the Saguenay. These had been discon- tinued and taken down for some years, but have since been re-estab. lished as far as Grosse Isle, for the purpose of communicating with the Quarantine Establishment there. In sailing down the River, the Tourist may be reminded that the trip to the head of steam-navi, CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 93 2 gation on the Saguenay is entirely in the District of Quebec, that the counties of Montmorenci and Saguenay intervene betwixt the Fall of Montmorenci and the mouth of the Saguenay, the latter county occupying, however, double the frontage of the former, and that from near Pointe Levi the four counties of Bellechasse, L'Islet, Kamour- aska, and Rimouski extend in succession to the extreme District of Gaspé. A level tract of land, varying in width, extends from the River to a range of mountains, forming a continuation of the Alle- ghanies and terminating the prospect in the direction of Maine State and New Brunswick. The greater portion of this tract is under cultivation, and presents a striking contrast with the dark hue of the forests in the receding back-ground. At a short distance from the shore passes the highway, on either side of which is a succession of cottages and farm-houses, painted in a variety of hues, white pre- dominating. The dwelling—houses are of wood, and the roofs are covered with thin pieces of ash, called shingles, which are nailed on in the same manner as slates in England. A parish-church with its tin-roof and belfry shining to the sun, overtopping the houses of a surrounding village, presents itself to the view at intervals of five or six miles. The seigniories, that extend along shore, and were granted when Canada belonged to France, are still chiefly possessed by French Canadians. According to the French laws the property of parents is at their death divided among their children. Large farms have thereby been split into small ones, and the new occupants, for the same reasons which guided their fathers, have placed their dwell- ing-houses and their granges, or barns, on the road side, so that the entire farming population, with the different tradespeople which such a population require, are settled in a nearly continuous line. From the River are seen the fences, forming the boundary of farms of great length and of very disproportionate breadth. In some instances the breadth is only a sixtieth part of the length. A few miles below Patrick’s Cove are seen on the right shore the churches of St. Michel and St. Vallier, near each of which is a telegraph station. On pass- ing the eastern end of the Isle of Orleans the River widens to eleven and twelve miles, and is beautifully varied by groups of islands, particularly those lying off the west end of Crane Island. Here 94 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. w Cape Tourment is seen rearing its summit up to the height of eighteen hundred feet, and the lofty mountains behind bound the distant view on the north. On the southern side of Grosse Isle (Big Island, so called comparatively with many smaller ones around) is the Quarantine Establishment, off which all merchant vessels are obliged to anchor till they undergo examination by the Medical Superintendant appointed by Government, and, if not detained are allowed to proceed to Quebec. At the Lazaretto here five thousand emigrants died of ship-ſever in 1847. In connection with this state- ment it is lamentable to be recorded, that about four thousand emi- grants perished at Montreal, and that about twenty thousand, chiefly Irish, perished either at sea or in the Government sheds of this Pro- vince in 1847. Several medical men and clergymen, who caught the infection during the discharge of their perilous duty, ſell victims. A little below are seen the church and village of St. Thomas on the Riviére du Sud, over which is built a handsome bridge, called the * Regent’s Bridge'. On the other side of this river is a church dedi- cated to St. Peter. The soil in this locality is so productive, especially in corn of every species, that it has obtained for it the distinguishing epithet of the “Granary of the Lower District.” Crane Island and Little Goose Island, which at high water appear two islands, are at low water connected by an isthmus affording ready passage in charrettes, &c. They are together about twelve miles in length, and are well peopled and cultivated, producing wheat much beyond their own consumption. The marshes produce abundance of fine hay, and afford pasture sufficient for upwards of two thousand head of cattle. These islands were originally appendages of the seigniory of Riviére du Sud, but many years ago became the property cf Mr. M“Pherson, and are now generally called “M'Pherson’s Island.” The residence of the proprietrix is at the N. E. end. On the north side is a church with a village. Soon is seen the church of L'Islet de St. Jean on a point of land, which is completely isolated at high water. Hence has arisen the name of the seigniory, which has ex- tended itself to the county, which fronts the River for thirty-eight miles.—It is worthy of notice that the St. Lawrence, in its course from the Isle of Orleans to beyond the mouth of the Saguenay, is CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, - 97 rugged mountains. The sojourner is enlivened by the sight of nu. merous large vessels constantly navigating the broad expanse. Green Island lies off Cacona, and has a light-house sixty feet above the sea. The light is fixed, and can be seen at the distance of from twelve to seventeen miles, according to the height of the observer’s eye from ten to sixty feet. The light is shown from sunset to sunrise between the 15th of April and the 10th of December. From this light-house to the light-vessel at the Traverse is fifty-four miles; and for the first thirty miles above, the River is divided into the North and South Channels by numerous islets with banks and reefs attached to them. Among these we may mention Hare Island, which is seven miles long in the direc- tion of the River, and the three Brandy Pots, off which vessels bound down, and waiting for a wind or the tide, usually rendezvous. These islands are upwards of one hundred miles from Quebec. It is worthy of notice that the islands, reefs, and ridges along the Southern Shore from Quebec downwards, are of gray-wacké and slate. These southern ridges only rise a few hundred feet, while the granitic mountains of the North Shore in some parts exceed an elevation of . two thousand feet above the River.—Before transporting our Tourist to the Saguenay, we notice briefly the North Shore from that river to Cape Tourment. In most parts granitic hills rise immediately from the River, forming steep or precipitous headlands. Near the western entrance of the Saguenay these hills do not exceed one thousand feet in height, but those of Eboulemens attain an elevation of two thousand five hundred and forty-seven feet above the tide-waters of the River. The cliffs at either entrance of the Saguenay are of clay. Capes Basque, Dogs, Salmon, and Eagle are descried in succession, and present the same bold and precipitous features. A little east- ward from the last the Settlements begin, and continue along the shore to Quebec. A few miles beyond is Murray Bay, at the head of which is a village with a church delightfully situated at the mouth of a river, on which are grist and saw-mills. Few places in Canada can be justly compared with this in beauty of scenery. Here lumber is shipped to a considerable amount. Malbay and Eboule- mens Bays lie south-west. Slight shocks of, earthquakes are occasionally felt here, and in their neighbourhood. It is remarked I 100 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. > or “Ha! Ha!” descriptive of the surprise which was experienced by the first French explorers, when they ascertained that this expanse, instead of conducting up the noble river, had no other outlet except the one by which they had entered it. Hence to the trading port of Chicoutimi, which by land is about ten miles distant, but upwards of twenty by water, the river is comparatively shallow, and tastes fresh when the tide is out. Chicoutimi is an important trading-port, cons taining two settlements about two miles apart, and has a population of upwards of four hundred, chiefly French Canadians employed in lumbering. It has been observed that grain ripens earlier in this locality than around Quebec. In the vicinity there stands on an eminence a small rude Catholic Church almost entire, but stripped of all its ornaments except a crucifix and a few candle-sticks. It is said to have been constructed by Jesuit missionaries upwards of a century ago. Several of these were buried in the church, and the tombstones may still be seen. In the belfry is a bell, on which is an inscription that has hitherto baffled the learned of Canada to explain or translate. About fifty miles above Chicoutimi, the Saguenay issues from Lake St. John, which is about forty miles long, and receives eleven large rivers. The country surrounding the Lake is well tim- bered, and rather level, and holding out the prospect of being well adapted for agriculture, while the climate is said to be far preferable to that of the sea-coast of the St. Lawrence. The only outlet of the Lake besides the Saguenay is the Metabethshuan, the waters of which, after passing the expanse of Lake Kiguagomi, become the Chicoutimi, and unite with those of the Saguenay near the village of Chicoutimi. The portion of the Saguenay from this village to the Lake is unavailable on account of the numerous falls and rapids, and the Chicoutimi affords a very circuitous communication by boats through the Lake Kiguagomi and the River Metabethshuan. The influence of the tide is felt as far up as the Rapid of Terre Rompue, six miles above Chicoutimi. The ordinary spring-tides rise seven- teen feet at Tadousac, and twelve at Chicoutimi. To this point schooners and steamers can ascend with the assistance of flood-tide, and the largest ships to Point Roches, fifty-seven miles up. At the mouth of the Metabethshuan on the south shore of Lake St. John 102 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, A P P E N D I X. THE OTTAWA, CALEDONIA SPRINGS, BYTOWN, ETC. As the romantic scenery of the Ottawa, especially in the neigh- bourhood of Bytown, and the benefits resulting from the use of the Caledonia Springs, deservedly induce numerous tourists and invalids to visit these localities every season, we subjoin a brief notice. With this view the passenger will leave the terminus of the Rail-road at Montreal for Lachine at eight, A. M. At Lachine he embarks in the steamer for Point Fortune, which is distant upwards of forty miles on the south side of the Ottawa. He proceeds for a short time along the north shore of the expansion of the St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Louis, passing on the right Pointe Claire, and to the leſt Isle Perrot, so called after the Sieur to whom it was originally grant- ed. The island is seven miles long by three in width, is tolerably well cultivated, and has ferries to the Island of Montreal and the mainland. It contains a church. At the south-western extremity of the Island of Montreal, the traveller passes through the St. Anne's lock, thus avoiding the Rapid celebrated in the ‘Canadian Boat Song,” and enters the Lake of Two Mountains, into which the • On account of the frequent communication betwixt the islands and mainland at the confluences of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, great numbers of Canadian habitans along the shores, instead of at- tending to agricultural pursuits, follow the occupation of voyageurs. They are much employed in managing the large rafts of lumber that are yearly floated down the Ottawa and St. Lawrence to Que- bec, and many accompany the arduous expeditions of the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company to the North West. The flourishing village that surrounds the church of St. Anne mainly owes its exis- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 105 and charged a small fee for the liberty of using the waters. They now assumed the character of a Spa, and attracted invalids from some distance. A house was erected for the accommodation of visitors, and the wonderful efficacy of the waters was more and more acknowledg- ed. In 1835 they were purchased by Mr. Lemuel Cushing, who erect- ed a Hotel in the hope that a better class of visitors might be induced to resort thither. Up to this period little had been done towards im- proving the roads leading to Caledonia, and still less towards attract- ing visitors to prolong their stay by doing somewhat for the surround- ing locality. At length the property in 1836 came into the possession of William Parker, Esq., who immediately commenced improve- ments by clearing and building. The springs were secured from the drainings of the land, cleaned out, and encased. In 1837 the land in the vicinity was laid out in lots for a village, having a large pub- lic square in the centre. Besides the erection of a well stocked store, and of a large hotel, a post-office was established, and a carriage-road opened through the woods to the Settlement. In June of 1838 the Hotel, called “ The Canada House,” and capa- ble of accommodating one hundred persons, was opened under favourable circumstances, and received a great influx of visit- ors. A bath-house also was erected, and an octagon temple over the Gas-spring. The value of the land had now advanced fifty per cent, several shops had sprung into existence, and the Caledonia $prings held out most encouraging prospects of success, when a most untoward event occurred, which seemed to have inflicted a mortal wound on the proprietor’s enterprising exertions. The new hotel was entirely destroyed by fire in a single night, a little more than a month after it was opened. So convinced, however, were the visit- ors of the benefits they had received from the use of the waters, that most preferred to remain and put up with such lodgings as could be hastily prepared, than to forego these benefits by returning home. The proprietor was thereby so encouraged that, when winter set in, the entire frame of the new hotel was completed upon the site of the one destroyed. In order to have the means of suitably finishing and furnishing the hotel, and continuing further improvements, he had re- course to the sale of one hundred building lots, that had been already 106 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, iaid out around the Springs. These lots were valued at £25 each, and the purchasers had their chances of location by a tirage au sort. The undertaking proved successful, and the drawing took place at Montreal in March of 1839. Through the liberal patronage of many influential persons in both Provinces, the proprietor was thus enabled to throw open the present splendid hotel to the public in the follow- ing July, and throughout the season began to see some accomplish- ment of his hopes, and to derive some reward from his great exertions and outlay. By a second tirage au sort at Montreal in June of 1840, the terms of which we cannot now state, Mr. Parker was en- abled to realize a large sum, the whole of which was expended in making various alterations and additions to the attractions of the Spa. Besides the enlargement of the Hotel and the improvement of the Baths, a billiard-room and ball-alley were built and furnished, a weekly newspaper, called “Life at the Springs,” was established, and a church and school-house erected. Since that time improve- 'ments have been made each successive year. Among these we may mention the circular railroad. It bears two cars, traversing in opposite directions, and carrying each two persons; they are impel- led by the riders, and thus afford amusement and healthful exercise. A well beaten race-course encircles the property, and affords an arena for matches among the visitors or a riding-ground for exercise. The spacious galleries around the Hotel command a view of its entire extent. Gentlemen fond of fishing and shooting can find good em- ployment for rod and gun. The lawn is at hand for cricket, quoits, and “la grace.” There is a boarded walk through the woods to the New Spring, which is distant more than two miles. There are four Springs, called the Saline, Sulphur, Gas, and Intermittent. The water is bottled and exported in large quantities. For full particu- lars of the history, rise, and progress of the Caledonia Springs, we must refer the reader to Mr. Parker’s pamphlet, in which has been adduced ample attestation of the efficacy of the waters in the cure of rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, dyspepsia, liver complaint, &c. &c. The Springs' property has within the last three years passed into the hands of John L. Wilkinson, Esq. The Canada House is now leased by Mr. William Scobie, formerly of the Catskill Mountain Hotel, 108 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Great Britain. A vast number of hands are employed in its prepar- ation during the long winter, and in rafting it to Quebec during the summer. In the prosecution of the latter occupation not a few perils are encountered in the navigation of the rapids, even when committed to the most experienced voyageurs. It is indeed a gay sight to be- hold on the broad expanse of the St. Lawrence under a cloudless sky a fleet of these rafts, manned each by some twenty rowers or more, striking their huge oars in cadence, and enlivening their toils with popular airs and hymns, but chiefly with the refrain (chorus) of .4 la Claire Fontaine." They sometimes take advantage of a favoura- ble wind by erecting across the raft a wall of perpendicular deals. The rafts are generally anchored at night, and the hardy raftsmen t * A LA CLAIRE FONTAINE. 1 A la claire Fontaine M’en allant promener, J’ai trouvé l’eau si belle Que je me suis baigné; Il y a longtemps que je t'aime, Jamais je net’oublierai. 2 J’ai trouvé l'eau si belle Que je me suis baigné, , Et c’est au pied d’un chène Que je me suis reposé ; w Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 3 Et c’est au pied d'un chène Que je me suis reposè ; Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait; , Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 3. Sur la plus haute branche Le rossignol chantait :— —Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le coeur gai; Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. CANADIAN GUIDE B0OK, 109 repose in their plank shanties. Sometimes, however, rafts may be seen floating quietly down the stream during the still night, while brilliant fires light up the figures of the raftsmen. Within these few years much has been done to facilitate and assure the passage of lum- · ber down the Ottawa by the construction of slides and dams, and by the removal of many obstructions, such as rocks, &c. The four following slides, viz., the Madawaska, Mountain, Calumet, and Joachim, cost É24,438 2s 3d. Bytown is the head-quarters of the lumberers, upon whom it principally depends ſor support. It is 5 Chante, rossignol, chante, Toi qui as le cœur gai ; Tu as le cœur à rire, Moi je l'ai à pleurer ; Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 6 Tu as le cœur à rire, Moi je l'ai à pleurer ;! J'ai perdu ma maitresse ! Sans pouvoir la trouver ; Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 7 J'ai perdu ma maitresse, Sans pouvoir la trouver ; Pour un bouquet de rose Que je lui refusai ; Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 8 Pour un bouquet de rose Que je lui refusai ; Je voudrais que la rose Fût encore au rosier ; Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. 9 Je voudrais que la rose Fût encore au rosier, Et que le rosier même Fût dans la mer jeté. Il y a longtemps, &c. &c. K 110 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. situated at the mouth of the Rideau River or Canal, and is named in honour of Colonel By, its able engineer. The large house, which the enterprising colonel occupied for several years, was burnt to the ground last year (1848) to the universal regret of the inhabitants. Bytown is the District-town of Dalhousie, and contains a popula- tion of nearly ten thousand. It is known as Upper and Lower Bytown. The former is situated about half a mile higher up the river, and on considerably higher ground. The land on which it is erected, together with a portion of that composing the Lower Town, was purchased some years ago for £80, and is now computed to be worth upwards of £50,000. The appearance of the town has recently been much improved by the erection of several handsome stone build- ings. A fine single-arched bridge of hewn stone, called the “Sappers and Miners,” is thrown over the Rideau Canal, connecting the Towns. Eight handsome locks have been constructed to overcome the fall of thirty-four feet in the River. The Barracks, which occupy a com- manding situation between the Towns, are garrisoned by a company of Rifles. From the Barrack-Hill is commanded a magnificent view, embracing the Chaudiére Falls, the Rapids above them, the Union Suspension Bridge (which connects Upper and Lower Canada, and cost £17,133 17s. 5d.), and the Mountains to the North, with the Ottawa, a hundred and fifty feet below, gliding on in its winding course, dotted with numerous rafts, till it is lost in the distance. In the Upper Town are agencies of the following banks, viz., Mon- treal Bank, Bank of British North America, City Bank of Montreal, Commercial Bank, and Upper Canada Bank. In it are three churches, the Episcopal, Presbyterian in connexion with the Church of Scotland, and Methodist. The Lower Town is chiefly inhabit- ed by Irish and French Canadians, the latter amounting to about a third. It contains the following places of worship, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which is well worthy of a visit, Free Church, Baptist, and two Methodist. Here, also, are a Roman Catholic College and Nunnery. Bytown has recently become the official res- idence of a Roman Catholic Bishop. It sends a representative to the Legislative Assembly. We regret to understand that the Coms mercial Reading-room, and Mercantile Library Association, 112 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. the resemblance to a curtain which the beautiful fall of about thirty feet at its mouth presents. The Canal is formed through the bed of the Rideau, with two or three deviations on account of obstructions, through the Great Rideau Lake, and Mud Lake, into the bed of the Cataraqui River to Kingston. But little of the land on the Canal is under cultivation, as much of it is poor and rocky. Thousands of acres of cultivable land have been flooded by the damming of the rivers for the formation of the Canal, and immense quantities of tim- ber have been consequently destroyed. Notwithstanding the deserted miserable appearance which is presented in several parts by great numbers of trees still standing dead amid water, there are some pic- turesque and even romantic scenes. The finest spot is Kingston Mills, about six miles above Kingston. Formerly the traffic was very great, as, before the opening of the St. Lawrence Canals, the merchandize intended for the country beyond Kingston was trans- ported by this line at a great expense, whilst the major part of passengers from Montreal ascended by the same route.—The Tourist will proceed in the morning by a calèche to Aylmer, which is dis- tant some eight miles. The drive is interesting, at a short dis- tance from the Ottawa, which is here very wide. On crossing the Suspension Bridge he will enjoy a view of the magnificent Chaudière Falls, which are two hundred and twelve feet broad, and sixty high. On the Hull or Canada East side the water descends into a large basin, a large portion of which is believed to escape by subterraneous outlets. Hundreds of logs, that have fallen into this basin, still re- main. From Aylmer an iron steamer plies to the Chats. The in- terval comprises the expansions of the River, called Lake Chaudiére and Du Chêne. The approach to the Chats Falls is most imposing. The Cascade, generally about twenty-five feet, extends across the river in a curved line, and is divided into upwards of a dozen dis- tinct falls by a number of wooded islands. The River, three miles above, contracts suddenly, and dashes through the Rapids of the Chats in violent eddies amid a labyrinth of islands. On the Canada West side is situated Fitzroy Harbour, containing about five hundred inhabitants, and a Catholic Church. The space between this and Mississippi Island is unnavigable. On the other side is the landing- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. II 9 nation to that branch of the Green Mountains which divides the waters of Lake Champlain from the sources of the Yamaska and St. Francis, and is similar to that of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The spectator occupies, as it were, the centre of a circle, whose circumference extends before his eyes upwards of sixty miles in almost every direction. In one direction he finds the Green Mountains of Vermont, Lake Champlain stretching along its slug- gish length until it is cut off by the visible horizon, or the blue hills that crowd the north-eastern frontier of the State of New York. In another direction, when the state of the atmosphere is favourable, he can trace the St. Lawrence, after receiving into its capacious channel at Sorel the waters of the Richelieu, wending its shining current until it is lost in the distance; or he can trace the majestic river upwards to Montreal and Lachine, and some twenty or thirty miles farther up. Again, reverting to Sorel, he can trace the Richelieu to Chambly, thence to St. John’s, and onwards to the upper end of Lake Champlain. We have not brought under notice beyond a third part of the extensive prospect which the spectator commands from the summit of Beloeil. Hence, besides, he over- looks a vast woodland, intersected by numerous strips of cultivated fields, and thickly studded with neat villages and churches. THE ST. LAWRENCE AND ATLANTIC RAIL-ROAD TO ST. HILAIRE AND ST. HYACINTHE. This railroad, the completion of which is regarded as an event of paramount importance to Canada generally and to Montreal especially, was opened as far as St. Hyacinthe on the 26th of last December, (1848). Passengers are conveyed in a steam-boat from Montreal to the Company’s Wharf at Longueuil. The Depot here is large and handsome, two hundred and thirty feet long by sixty. The offices and waiting-rooms are fitted up on a scale of great con- venience. The engine-house, which is ninety-four feet long by fifty- CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 125 ſtag theſt So do I say, “If you would see fair Shewinaga, Go visit her in the month of May.” The same writer, keeping up his happy nomenclature, thus carries on the description. “On ascending the portage path we descried through the trees fair Shewinaga, dancing down the slope of the hill on our right hand with sinuous courses; about midway she grows suddenly fretful, and tosses herself headlong down a precipice of thirty feet; then, skipping along as before, glides gently at last with the main body cf the river. * * * * * So much for the beauty and elegance of Shewinaga. But what pen shall describe the terrific contrast—the collision, the conflict, the co-thunder of the waters of Shewinagus and Shewinagum. I ascended the hill with the chasm on my right hand, till I came to a point, which I shall call the Point of Co-thunder. There, looking up, I saw an inclined plane, swift as an arrow, and Shewinagus tumbling and bounding from rock to rock to meet him, and, when they met in the chasm below, what a sublime and terrific scene what rattling, roaring, tossing, boiling and foaming of waters! - “When Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug of war !” It was indeed an angry ‘meeting of the waters,” and far from a “mingling in peace.” There are large fissures in the precipitous rock, into which the waves are driven by the force of the collision. Immediately above the fall the current is unbroken and quiet, though very rapid, as might be observed on seeing a huge log suddenly dip one end, and wholly disappear, on approaching the edge of the prec- ipice.” The traveller on returning embarks in his canoe and de- scends swiftly for some distance. After a long portage, which occupies considerable time, the Falls of the Grès are reached, and are well worth seeing. The pleasing appearance of the Gabelle - Falls, like that of many others in America, has been much injured by being denuded of the fine trees that once graced it. Some miles below are passed the Forges of St. Maurice, to which we have elsewhere alluded. In conclusion the Falls of Shewinagam, although very interesting at any season, are visited under the most favoura- ble circumstances during the high waters of the spring and fall, or during the latter end of Ms.* the first half of October. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 129 We are indebted for the information which follows to the first Report of the Board of Registration and Statistics, published by order of Parliament in 1849. This Board consists of the Inspector Gener- al, Receiver General, and Provincial Secretary, and the Secretary to the Board is Mr. W. C. Crofton. On the last gentleman, we presume, the labour devolved of digesting and arranging the mass of interesting matter before the Board; and, considering the difficulties in the way of 'all first attempts of the kind, we congratulate the country on its having been so efficiently and satisfactorily performed. POPULATION OF CANADA. There has not unfortunately been any census taken of Lower or Eastern Canada since 1844. In that year it showed a total of 690,782, and the result of a series of four independent calculations based on the progressive increase of former years, shows a total in 1848 of 768,334, which is distributed thus among the Counties. LOWER CANADA. Counties. Population of 1848. Saguenay . - - - 19364 Ottawa . - - e 17870 Two Mountains - - 29952 Terrebonne . - - 23052 Leinster . - • . . 28507 Berthier • . - 29988 Drummond - - - 10467 Sherbrooke County. - 14168 &g Town e - 887 Shefford - e - 11282 Beauharnois . - • 32095 Montreal, City - - 551.46 Quebec, City . • - 39.830 Megantic . - - 7535 Rimouski . - s º 19683 Dorchester . - * 38877 Lotbiniére - - e 15292 Portneuf - - - 17777 Vaudreuil . º • * * 18554 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, 135 This indicates the value of Imports into Canada for the year 1847 to have been £3,795,847 5s. 11d. and with the addition of Free Goods, about £4,000,000, or very nearly £3 to each inhabitant, or £15 for each family of five persons, contributing towards the Revenue of the Country f1 7s. 7d. Of the large amount of Im- ports in 1847, we find that Great Britain and her Colonies furnish £2,677,260,exclusive of the Imports by Sea into the Ports of Western Canada, and Goods passing through the States under the Drawback Act. * When we come to consider the consumption of Articles, we shall see how capable of extension even this large Trade is, and how adequate the resources of the Country are to meet it. The real wealth of the Country is but little known, and till within a few years, when the regulations of the Customs were rendered more stringent and efficient, there was no information whatever in the hands of the Government as to the Trade carried on by the Inland Ports. To the introduction of the present system we owe much, and, if the same check could be placed on the Export Trade, we would soon be able to arrive at a definite knowledge of our Trade, which knowledge would cause a greater energy in all our efforts to bring forward the resources of the Colony. Let us now turn our attention for a few moments to the Export Trade, and endeavour to make available the scattered information we possess on the subject. With regard to the Ports of Montreal and Quebec, no diſficulty arises; we find the Exports from these Ports to have amounted in 1848 to £1,749,167 10s. 11d. 6 which adding for the Fisheries not included £91,252 15s. 8d. we have for the Exports by Sea £1,840,420 6s. 7d., the great portion of which was to England and her Colonies. As to the Exports by the United States, we have only partial returns from some Ports, and at evidently under-rated values, viz: Produce of the Forest . - 36159,551 6 5 Agricultural Productions . 454,350 0 9 Live Stock . - - - 54,243 7 6 Other Articles . - p 104,287 10 8 E772,432 5 4 * r – e-ºe--" CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 137 > and even in that class, in the Western Section of the Province, were very many who were far removed from the corresponding class in other countries. Taken as a whole, it may be safely asserted, that in no country do the agricultural classes enjoy a greater degree of comfort or are liable to fewer deprivations. We first present the result of investigation as to the consump- tion of those articles which, by reason of the payment of Customs duties, are easily ascertained. sugar. From the Tables given by Mr. Porter in his Progress of the Nation, we find on the average of years from 1830 to 1841 the con- sumption of Sugar and Molasses in Great Britain to have been minimum in 1840, 15.28 lbs. per head, maximum in 1830–19.94 lbs. or on the average 17.61, exactly the consumption of 1841. In Canada for the year 1847, we have the following : Refined Sugar . - - 1,067,767 lbs. Raw “ - . 10,586,893 “ Bastard ** . . . 3,559,110 “ Molasses, - - . . 5,459,619 “ being 20,673,389 lbs. of Sugar, paying a duty of £108,774 12s 3d. 20,673,389 lbs. To this quantity we must however add Maple Sugar (L.C.), 1844, 2,272,457 Add one-tenth, . . . 227,245 = 2,499,602 Do. do, (U.C.), 1847, . . . 3,764,243 = 6,463,845 27,137,234 lbs. The Export of Maple Sugar being a mere trifle, more as an ar- ticle of curiosity than of trade, amounting in the whole to less than 5,000 lbs., we may take the above quantity as the consumption; which gives, according to the Census for 1847 (of 1,491,667 souls), an average consumption of 18.20 lbs. per head, or 91 lbs. to each family of five persons. It has been asserted that a large quantity of contraband Sugar is annually brought in from the States to the west- ern parts of the Upper Province, but whether sufficient to affect the consumption to any extent, there is no means of ascertaining. The M 2 140 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. In England the consumption In 1801 was 20,237,753 lbs. or 1 lb. 3 ozs. per head. 1811 “ 20,702,809 “ “ 1 “ 1 “ &c. 1821 “ 22,892,913 “ “ 1 “ 0 “ &f 1831 “ 29,997,101 “ “ 1 “ 3 “ ge 1841 “ 36,657,667 “ “ 1 “ 5 “ « 1846 “ 46,728,208 “ about 1 “ 8 “ cº The whole importation into the United States of Teas for the year ending 30th June, 1847, was 4,278,463 lbs., and for the year ending 30th June, 1848–6,217,111 ; see Report of the Secretary of the Treasury. - WINE AND spirits. The total quantity of Wine and Spirits which paid duty in 1847 was - - - - 553,849 gallons. 1848 “ . - - . . 392,580 “ The deficiency in Rum being 71,806 gallons, and in Wine 94,817 gallons, leaving an increase of 5,354 gallons on other spirits. The quantity manufactured in Canada in 1847 was 2,134,721 gal- lons, and in 1848 1,905,150 gallons. This, however, must not be taken as a criterion of consumption, as, at the beginning of 1848, there was a large supply on hand. - ToBA CCO. The quantity of Tobacco which paid duty in 1847 was 2,643, 552 lbs. and in 1848, 1,840,158 lbs. It is to be regretted that from the Western District, where a large quantity of Tobacco is grown, no Returns have been made for the year 1848. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK, 14]: TARIFF of DUTIES, PAYABLE ON IMPorts INTo can ADA, UNDER THE ACT 12 vict. cHAP. 1–April 25, 1849. ...Articles. Duties. ALE, e e º - - • - - 12% per cent. Allspice, - • * * - º - - . 30 per cent. Almonds, . e - - - e- - - 30 per cent. Anatomical Preparations, . . . . . Free. Anchors, . - - - - > * º - 24 per cent. Anchovies, . . . - - - - - . 24 per cent. Animals and Live Stock, all, . . . 20 per cent. Animals, specially imported for the improvement of Stock, . - - - - - - . Free. Apples, . - - - • e e - 30 per cent. Arrowroot, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Articles, ALL UNENUMERATED, - - - 12% per cent. Ashes, Pot and Pearl, . - - - • . Free. Do. Soda, . - - - - - . Free. Bacon, . . . . . . . . 20 per cent. Baggage of Travellers, . • - e - Free. Bark, . - e - - - - - . 2% per cent. Barley, . e • e e e e - 20 per cent. Beans, Bere and Bigg, . - • * * . 20 per cent. Beef, - - • º - - º - 20 per cent. Berries, used in dyeing, . - . 2% per cent. Biscuit, . . - - - - - • 12% per cent. Books, Printed, except foreign reprints of British copy- right works, which are prohibited by an Imperial Act, - - - - - - - Free. Books, Blank, . - - - - - • 12% per cent. Books and Drawings of an immoral or indecent char- acter, - e - - e - - Prohibited. " Tr"Tºº-----~~~~~~~~~ ** --~~ 142 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. * .Articles. Duties. Boots and Shoes, . - - e e - . 12% per cent. Bran and Shorts, . • e • - . 20 per cent. Brandy, • - - - 2s. per gallon and 25 per cent. Bristles, . - - - - - * e 24 per cent. Broom-Corn, e • - . 2% per cent. Brooms, . e e e - o e - 12% per cent. Brushes, . w - - - - e . 12% per cent. Buckwheat, . - - - > - e 20, per cent. Bulbs and Roots, - e - - e . Free. Burr Stones, . . . - o e e - 2} per cent. Burr Stones, Wrought . - - - - . 12% per cent. Busts and Casts of Marble, Bronze, Alabaster, or Plaster of Paris, - - - - - Free. Butter, - - - - - e - . 20 per cent. CABINETs of Coins, Medals, or Gems, and other Collections of Antiquity, . - - . Free. Camphine, . - - - º - - . 12% per cent. Candles, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent. Cassia, º e - - - • . 30 per cent. Castings, e - e - - - - 124 per cent. Cattle, º - - - - - . . 20 per cent. Chain Cables, not less than fifteen fathoms, and links five-eighths of an inch thick, - - - 24 per cent. Chairs, - e • e - - - . 12% per cent. Cheese, . º - - • - e - 20 per cent. Chocolate, . - e - - - - . 12% per cent. Cider, . - - • e - - • 123 per cent. Cinnamon, . - - • e > - . 30 per cent. Clocks, - - - - - - - . 124 per cent. Cloves, . - - - - - - - 30 per cent. Coals and Coke, - - e - e ." 2} per cent. Cocoa, - - - - - - - . 124 per cent. Coffee, green, • e - 4s 8d per cwt. and 123 per cent. Do. roasted or ground, . . 14s per cwt. and 12% per cent. Coin and Bullion, . º s - Free. --~~~~~~~ * ~ *- - CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 143 Joins, base, e - - e - - . Prohibited. Cordage, (see Rope). Cordials, * - - . 3s per gallon and 25 per cent. torks and Cork, - - e - - e 12% per cent. Corn, Indian, . - e - - e - Free. . Cotton Wool, . e e - - - . Free. Cotton Manufactures, - - - • e 12% per cent. }rackers and Biscuit, . - - - - • 12% per cent. Currants, - - - - - º - 30 per cent. Cutlery, - e - - - - - • 12% per cent. DRAWINGs, . - - - - - " - Free. Drugs, - • • - - - - • 12% per cent. Drugs, used solely in dyeing, . - e - 2} per cent. Dye Woods, - - - - - . 2% per cent. FARTHEN waRE, . - - - - - 124 per cent. Engravings and Etchings, . - e - . . Free. Feathers, • - • • - - - 12% per cent. Figs, - - - - • e - . 30 per cent. Fish, . - e - - • * - - 12% per cent. Flax and Tow, undressed, . - * 2% per cent. Flour, - - - - - e º º 20 per cent. Flowers, artificial, - - e - - • 12% per cent. Fruits, all kinds, - - - - • - 30 per cent. Furniture, e • e - - - - 124 per cent. tºurs, . - - • e - - - • 12% per cent. **IN, . - - - - 2s per gallon and 25 per cent. Ginger, . - - - - - - - 30 per cent, t;lass, and Manufactures of - - e • 12% per cent. • *lue, - - - - - - - º 123 per cent. tºoods, &c., all not enumerated, . - - • 12% per cent, Grapes, . - - - - e - • 30 per cent. ºrease and Scraps, - - - - e • 23 per cent. tºuano, . - e - - º - - Free. **ypsum, . - - - - - e • Free. AIR, and Manufactures of . . . . 12% per cent. *ams, . e - - • - • - . 20 per cent. 144 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. Járticles. Hardware, . - • - º • - Harness, . - - e - - - e -- Hats, - - e - - - -- -- Hay, . - - -- - -- - - Hemp, . - - -- - * -- -- Hides, • p • • e •e e Honey, . . • * • * : * * Hops, . - - * • - • - Horses . - • - - e - - INDIAN CoEN, . - e • . e. e Indian Rubber, • * , ” - * º Indigo, - - .* * * - - º Ink, . - e - - - s º • Iron, viz.:- Bar and Rod, not hammered, . - Sheets not thinner than sixteen wire gauge, Hoop, not over two inches broad, . - Charcoal-made or refined, . Boiler Plates, . . . e - - - Railroad Bars, . - - - - Spike Rods, . - - - • - Pig and Scrap, . - º • - All not enumerated, -- • - -- Manufactures of • , e. - - Ivory, . - - - e - e - JEWELRY, . • - - • - - Junk, - - º - - - - - LAMPS, - - e * • - - Lard, - -> - • • . " - - Lead, Pig and Sheet, . •. •. •. - Do. Manufactures, • - • . - Leather, . - e - e • e Do. Manufactures, , - • - • Leeches, e - - - º • • Lemons, . - - • - • * *. - Duties. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 2} per cent, 2} per cent. 12% per cent. 20 per cent. 20 per cent. Free. 123 per cent. 24 per cent. 124 per cent. 24 per cent. . 24 per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. : 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 2} per cent. 12% per cent. 2} per cent. 2} per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 12% per cent. 30 per cent. *-i-º-º-º-º-º-º: - 146 CANADIAN Guide BOOK. Járticles. Duties. NAILs, . - - - - - • - 12% per cent. Nuts, . - - - - - - - . 30 per cent. Nuts used in Dyeing, - - - • * 2} per cent. Nutmegs, . - - - . 30 per cent. OAKUM, . - - - - - 2} per cent. Oats, . - - - - - - - . 20 per cent. Oil—Cocoanut, - - - - - - 2} per cent. Palm, - - - - - - . 2% per cent, All other, - - - - - - 12% per cent. Oilcloth, . . - - - - - • 12% per cent. Oranges, . - - . . - - - 30 per cent. Ores of all metals, . . . . . . 24 per cent. Oysters, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent. PAILS, - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Paints, . • • - - - - - 12% per cent. Paint Brushes, . - - - - - • 12% per cent. Paintings, - - - e - - . Free. Paper, . - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Paper Manufactures, . . - - - - 12% per cent. Peaches, . - - - - - - . 30 per cent. Pears, - - - - - - - - 30 per cent. Peas, . - - - - - - - . 20 per cent. Pepper, . - - - - - - - 30 per cent. Perfumery, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Philosophical Instruments and Apparatus, . - Free. Pianos, - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Pickles, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Pimento, . - - - - - - • 30 per cent. Pipe Clay, - - - - - - 2} per cent. Pipes, Smoking, . . - - - . . 12% per cent. Pitch, - - - - - - - - 24 per cent, Plate, . - - - . . - . . . 12% per cent. Playing Cards . - - - - - - 12% per cent. Pork, Mess, . - - - - - - . 12% per cent. Pork, all other, - - * * - - - 20 per cent. Potatoes, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. 147 Järticles. Duties. Poultry, . - - - - - - - 12% per cent. Preserved Fruits (in sugar, candy or molasses), . 30 per cent. Prunes, . - - - - - - - 30 per cent. Putty, . - - - - - - - . 12% per cent. QUILLs, . - - - - - - - 12% per cent. Quinces, - - - - - - - . 30 per cent. RAIsINs, . - - - - - - - 30 per cent. Resin or Rosin, . - - - - - . 2% per cent. Rice, - - - • - - - - 12% per cent. Rope, . - - - - - - - . 12% per cent. Rope, Tarred—when imported by ship-builders for rig- ging their ships, - - - 2} per cent. Rum, at proof, by Sykes' Hydrometer, 1s 3d per gal, and 25 per cent. Rye, - - - - - - 20 per cent. SALERATUS, - - - - - - . 12% per cent. Salt, - - - - . 1d. per bushel and 124 per cent. Sauces, - - - - - - - . 12% per cent. Saw Logs, . . - - - . . - 2} per cent. - Scythes - • ' . - - - - ... 12% per cent. Seeds, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent. Segars, - - - - 1s. 6d. per lb. and 124 per cent. Sheep, . - - - - > - - 20 per cent. Shell Fish, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Shingles, . - - - - - - - 12% per cent. Ships’ Water Casks, in use, . - - - . 2% per cent. Shoes, . - - - - - - - 12% per cent. Shot, . - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Silk Manufactures, . - - - - - 124 per cent. Slates, - - - - - - - . 124 per cent. Snuff, . - - - - - 4d. per lb, and 124 per cent. Soap, . - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Soda Ash, - - - - - - - Free. Specimens of N atural History, Mineralogy or Botany, Free. Spices, all, . - - - - - - . 30 per cent. Spikes, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent 148 CANADIAN GUIDE BOOK. **::==-----------------------→º JArticles. - Duties. Spirits, except Rum and Whisky, at proof, 2s per gal. & 25 per cent. Spirits or Cordials, sweetened so that the strength can- not be found by the Hydrometer, 3s. per gal. and 25 per cent. Spirits of Turpentine, . - - - - . 12% per cent. Sponge, . - - - • - - - 12} per cent. Starch, - - - - • * - . 124 per cent. Steel, - - - - - - - - 2} per cent. Do. Manufactures, . - - - - . 12% per cent. Stoves, . - - - - - - - 12% per cent. Straw Boards, . - - - - - . 12% per cent. Sugar, Refined, in loaves, or Crushed and Candy, 14s, per cwt. and 124 per cent. Sugar, Bastard and other kinds, . 9s. per cwt. and 123 per cent. Sumach. . . . - - - - - - 2} per cent. Sweetmeats, - - - - - - . 30 per cent. Swine, . - - . . . . - - 20 per cent. Syrups, - - - - - - - • 12% per cent. TAL Low, - - - - - - - 2} per cent. Tar, . - • . . - - - . 2% per cent. Tea, . - - - • . 1d. per lb. and 12% per cent. Teasels, - - - - - . . • 24 per cent, Tin and Tinware, . - - - - - 12% per cent. Tobacco, Manufactured, - ... }d. per lb, and 12% per cent. Tobacco, Unmanufactured, - 1d. per lb. and 12% per cent. Tongues, . - - - - - - - . 20 per cent. Tow, Undressed, - - - - - - 2} per cent. Toys, - - - - - - - - 124 per cent. Trees and Shrubs, • * * - - - , Free. Type Metal, in blocks or pigs, - - - . 2% per cent. Types, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent. WARNISH, . - - . - - . 12% per cent. Vegetables used in dyeing, - - - - 2} per cent. Vegetables, . - - - - - - • 12% per cent. Veneers, . - - - - - - - 124 per cent. Wermicelli, , . - - - - . . .30 per cent. CATALOGUE OF BOOKS. TABLEs showING THE INTEREST at 6 per cent. on any sum from £1 to £1000 from one day to three hundred and sixty-five days and from one month to twelve months. Price 7s 6d. CoMMERCIAL TABLEs for calculating Interest after the rates of 6 per cent. and 5 per cent., Commission from ºth to 5 per cent., Exchange on England, Army Sterling, &c. Price 3s 9d. FEssenden's TABLEs for converting Sterling Money into Provin- cial Currency at various rates of Exchange. Price 3s 9d. THE MERcANTILE CALculAToR, arranged for the British Colonies, particularly adapted to the Forwarding, Iron, Ashes, Drug and Grocery Trades. Price 10s. THE GARLAND–a choice collection of Songs. Price 1s 3d. THE Hous Ewif E’s GUIDE—a Book of Domestic Cookery. Price 1s 3d, or 1s in paper covers. And the above works can also be procured at the Bookstores of Messrs. R. & C. Chalmers, J. M'Coy, C. Bryson, B. Dawson, R. & A. Miller. Three Rivers, G. Stobbs. Quebec, P. Sinclair. Sher- "brooke, W. Brooks. Bytown, A. Bryson. Brockville, W. Buell. Perth, J. Allan. Kingston, Ramsay, Armour & Co. Belleville, J. Harrison. Toronto, Scobie & Balfour, H. Rowsell, and T. M'Lear. Hamilton, M. Mackendrick. Niagara, J. Simpson, London, T. Craig. -