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A
HANDBOOK
TO
INDIA AND CEYLON


16‘ This sign in the text appended to a name
indicates that further information relating to the
subject is to be found in the INDEX AND DIREC-
TORY at the end of the boo/c.


A
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
iNDIA AND CEYLON
INCLUDING THE
PROVINOES OF BENGAL, BOMBAY, AND MADRAS,
(THE PANJAB, NORTH-WEST PROVINOES, RAJPUTANA,
CENTRAL PROVINCEa MYSORE,ETCJ
THE NATIVE STATES AND ASSAM
p, -I_.
WITH NUMEROUS MAPS AND PLANS 0F TOWNS AND BUILDINGS
LONDON;
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
CALOUTTA; THACKER SPINK & 00.
1892





‘ ."s
11?.
.r-..
ls'apofw'
PREFACE
SINCE the publication of the First Edition of the Handbook to India,
in four volumes, time and events have effected great changes, not only
in the country itself, but also in the facilities for reaching it from all
parts of the world, and for travelling throughout the peninsula. The
public, moreover, are yearly becoming better aware of the glorious
field which in India is opened up for the enjoyment of travel and
sport, and of the inexhaustible opportunities afforded them for the
study of an engrossing history, an interesting nationality, and an un-
rivalled art, as displayed not only in architectural monuments, but
also in native industries and handicrafts. On this account, and in
consequence of the yearly increasing tide of travellers setting towards
India, the publisher has found it necessary to rearrange his guide in an
entirely new form. It has been to a great extent rewritten, thoroughly
revised, and condensed into one handy volume.
The publisher, aware that it is impossible to insure perfection in
any guide-book, hopes that where inaccuracies are found in this one,
they may be pointed out by the indulgent tourist, with a view to their
correction on the first opportunity.
‘ The spelling of Indian names has always been a vexed question.
It has been thought fit here to follow no one particular system, but to
present the names of places in the form most familiar to Englishmen,
which for the most part is that adopted by the Postal and Railway
authorities.
Many new maps and plans of towns, countries, and buildings
have been added to this edition, which is, moreover, furnished with
an Index and Directory, containing information relating to hotels, dak
bungalows, clubs, steamers, names and addresses of banks, trades-
people, etc., and all ephemeral matter, which will be found there in a
convenient and compact form. _
The accounts of most places described in this book have been revised
[India] a
B s to a s g


vi . PREFACE
on the spot, and in this revision the publisher has received much kind
assistance from civil servants and others resident in different parts of
India. He takes this opportunity of tendering to them his grateful
thanks, as also to the following persons who have assisted him in
various parts of the book : Dr. Burgess, Dr. Bradshaw, LL.D., Mr. H.
Beauchamp, Major F. Spratt, R.E., Mr. R. Clarke, B.C.S., ‘kMr. J.
Westlake, Mr. G. Marsden, Mr. E. A. Smith, Mr. Ottewill ; particularly
to the Hon. Sir Arthur Gordon, G.C.M.G., who, with exception of the
description of Colombo and the first route, has written the whole
of the account of Ceylon from his own personal knowledge and wide
experience of that country; and finally to Professor Forrest, Keeper
of the Records in Calcutta, through whose able hands the whole of the
proofs of India have passed.


CONTENTS
LIST OF ROUTES
LIST OF Mars AND PLANS
SOME CIRCULAR Towns
INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION
' English Language
Railways . .
Season for Visit to India
Clothing .
Bedding .
Travelling Servants
Hotels
Dak Bungalows (India) .
Rest-Houses (Ceylon)
Food
Sport
Books . .
Preservation of Ancient Monuments
Voyage from England to Bombay
People of India—Mohammedans
Hindus
Parsis
Sikhs . .
Remarkable Events to end of 18th Century
Some Native Terms .
Abbreviations used in this book .
A few Hindi Words
Indian Coinage .
ROUTES THROUGH INDIA . . - . . .
ROUTES THROUGH OEYLON . .
LIsT 0F SOVEREIGNs WHO REIGNED AT DELHI FROM 1193 TO 1806 A.D.
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
PAGE
viii
xi
xiii
xv
xv
xv
xv
xvi
xvii
xvii
xviii
xviii
xviii
xviii
xviii
xix
xix
xx
xxxix
xli
xlv
xlvii
xlviii
liii
lvii
lvii
lix
1
403
424 ’
49”;


LIST OF ROUTES
[The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the
places themselves are described.
by rail.]
ROUTE 01‘
CAPITAL
Bombay and Environs, including
the Caves of Elephants,
Montpezir, and Kanhari .
1 Bombay to Calcutta by Kalyan,
Nasik, Bhusawal, Khand-
wa, Jubbulpore, Allahabad,
Mogul Sarai, and Patna,
with expeditions by road to
the caves of Ajanta, the
hill-station of Pachmarl, the
Marble Rocks at J ubbulpore,
and to Parasnath, and visits
by rail to Benares and Gaya
Calcutta and Environs, includ-
ing the approach from the
sea, Chinsurah, Hooghly,
Serampore, and Chander-
nagore . . . .
2 Nandgaon to Aurangabad,
the Caves, Roza or Khul-
dabad, and the Caves of
Ellora . . . .
‘3 Bhusawal to Akola (with ex-
pedition to Warora and
Chanda), Nagpur, Kemptee,
Raipur, Bilaspur, Purulia,
and Asensol . . .
4'Khandwa to Ajmere through
Indore, Mhow, Neemuch,
Chitor,and Nusseerabad,with
expeditions by road to Un- -
karji, Mandogarh, and 00-
deypur, and by rail to Ujjain
5 Itarsi Junction to Cawnpore
through Bhopal, Bhilsa,
Sanchi, Jhansi, and Kalpi,
with expedition by rail to
Saugor '. . . .
5A Agra to Manikpur Junction
through Dholpur, Gwalior,
Datia, Jhansi, Barwa-Sau-
gar, Mahoba, and Banda,
PAGE
H
26
52
65
78
86

ROUTE 01‘
CAPITAL
with expedition by road to
Khajurahu . . .
6 Bombay to Delhi through
Bassein, Surat, Breach,
When not otherwise stated, the routes are all
PAG E
92
Baroda, Ahmedabad, Meh- _
sana, Mount Abu, Ajmere,
Jeypore, Bandikui Junc-
tion, Alwar, Rewari, and
Delhi, with excursions by
rail to Dabhoi and J Odhpur
7 Ahmedabad to Somnath,
through Viramgam, Khara-
ghoda, Wadhwan, Bhauna-
gar, Palitana, Junagadh,
Girnar, Somnath, Porban-
dar, and Rajkot .
8 Rewan‘ to Ferozepur and La-
hore, through Hansi,Hissar,
and Bhatinda . . .
9 J eypore to Agra through
Bandikui Junction, Bhurt-
pur, and Achnera Junction,
with expedition by road
to Patehpur Sikri . .
10 Muttra to Mahaban, Bindra-
ban, and Dig from Achnei'a
Junction for travellers from
the W., and from Hathras
Junction for those from
Delhi or the N. .
11 Delhi to Simla, via Paniput,
Kurnal, Thanesar, Umbal-
la, Kalka, and Kasauli
1 1A Delhi to Umballa 'uia Ghazia-
bad Junction, Meerut, Sar-
dhana, and Saharanpore .
12 Umballa to Lahore through
Sirhind, Ludhiana, Amrit-
sar, Meean Meer, and La.-
hore . . . .
13 Lahore to Peshawar through
Gujranwala, Wazirabad
104
163
165
180
185
190
193


LIST OF ROUTES
ix
ROUTE U!‘
CAPITAL
Junction, Guzerat, Rotas,
Manikyala Tope, Rawal
Pilldi, and Attock, with
expedition by rail from
Wazirabad to Sialkot and
Jummoo . . . .
14 Lahore to Karachi by
rail through Montgom-
ery, Mooltan, Bahawalpur,
Rohri, the Indus Bridge,
Sukkur, Ruk Junction,
Larkana, Sehwan, Kotri,
Haidarabad on the Indus,
and Jung-shahi, from
whence an expedition by
road to Tatts. . .
15 Ruk Junction to Chaman,
on the frontier, through
Shikarpur, Jacobabad, Sibi
Junction, and Harnai, re-
turning by Qustta. and the
Bolan Pass . . .
16 Saharanpur by the Oudh
and Rohilcund Railway to
Mogul Sarai, visiting on the
way Moradabad, Bareilly,
Lucknow, and Bcnares
16A Bareilly Junction to Naini
Tal, Almorah, and Rani-
khet . . . .
17 Lhaksar Junction to Hard-
wsr, Dhera. Dun, and the
hill-stations of Mussoorie,
Landour, and Chakrats. .
18 Delhi to Allahabad by Ghaz-
iabad, Aligarh, Hathras
Junction, Tundla. Junction,
Etawah, and Cawnpore .
19 Calcutta by the East Indian
Railway Loop Line to
Luckeeserai, visiting Azim-
ganj, Murshedabad, Ber-
haznpur, Kasim Bazar,
Plassey, Rajmahal, Mal-
dah, Gaur, and Panduah .
20 From Calcutta by Eastern
Bengal Railway to Darjeel-
ing, visiting Damookdea,
the Ganges crossing, Silli-
giu-i, and Kurseong . .
20A Calcutta to Dibrugarh by
Bung-pore, Dhubri, Gau-
hati, and Shillong . .
203 Calcutta to Decca, and the
PAGE
205
214 :
226
229
245
246
249
256
262
265

ROUTE OF
CAPITAL
Sylhet Valley by Goalundo,
Narainganj, and Cherra-
Punji . . . .
21 Calcutta to Diamond Har-
bour, I-‘alse Point Harbour,
qui, the Black Pagoda,
Bhuvansshwar, tho Caves
of Udayagiri and Khanda-
girl, Cuttack, Jajpur, and
Balasore . . .
22 Bombay to Madras by Kalyan
Junction, the Ber Ghat,
Kirkee, and Poona, Shela-
pur, Kalbarga, Wadi J unc-
tion, Raichur, Guntakal
Junction, Renigunta. Junc-
tion, and Arkonam Junction,
with excursions by road to
Matheran Hill, the Caves of
Karl! and Bhaja, and to
Pandharpur, and by rail to
Ahmednagar and Tirupati
Madras City and Environs
23 Poona to Goa. through Wa-
thar, Satan, Miraj, Bel-
gaum, and Marmagoa
Harbour, with expeditions
by road to Mahabalesh-
war and the temples near
Belgaum, and by rail to
Kolhapur . . . .
24 Hotgi Junction to Bijapur,
Badami, and Dharwsr, with
excursions by road to
temples in the vicinity of
Badami
25 Wadi Junction to Haidara-
bad, Seounderabad, and
Golkonda, and expedition
by road to Bidar . .
26 Gadag Junction to Hospet,
Vijayanagar (Bijanaga'r),
Bellary, Guntakal Junc-
tion, Nandyal, and Bez-
wada, with expeditions by
road to Kurnool and Amra-
vati . . . . .
27 Hubli Junction to Harihar,
Banawar, Arsikere, Tum-
kur, and Bangalore, with
expeditions by road to the
temples at Hullabid, Belur,
and Jamgal, also to the
hills of Indra-befits. and
PAGE
267
284
303
312
324
338
345


X LIST OF ROUTES
ROUTE or
CAPITAL
Chandragiri, near Shra-
vana Belagola ~
28 By coasting-steamer from
Bombay to Ratnagiri, Mar-
magoa Harbour, Karwar,
Honawar, Mangalore, Can-
nannore, Tellicherry,Mahé,
Calicut, Beypur, Narakal,
Cochin, and Tuticorin, with
an expedition inland from
Honawar to the Falls of Ger-
soppa . . . .
29 Madras through Arcot, Vel-
lore, Jalarpet Junction to
Bangalore, and by Maddur
to Seringapatam and My-
sore, with expedition by
road to the Falls of the
Cauvery . . . .
30 Jalarpet Junction to Salem,
the Shevaroy Hills, Erode
Junction for Trichinopoly,
Coimbatore, and the Nilg'iri
Hills . . . .
31 Madras by the South Indian
Railway to Chingleput
Junction, Conjeveram, Por-
to Novo, Chidambaram,
Kumbhakonam, Tanjore,
Trichinopoly, Dindigal,
356
'364
378

ROUTE 01'
CAPITAL
Madura, and Tinnevelly,
with excursions by road to
Gingi, Kodaikanal, and
Kutallam, and by rail to
Pondicherry . . '.
Madras to Mahabalipur and
the Seven Pagodas by
Canal . . . .
32
CEYLON '
Introductory remarks, His-
tory, Colombo .
Colombo to Kandy
Colombo to Nuwara Eliya,
Badulla, and Batticaloa. .
Colombo to Ratnapura and
Badulla . . .
Colombo to Ratnapura 'mla
Panadura and Nambapane
.) Colombo to Galle, Matara,
Hambantotta, and Tis-
samaharama . . .
Colombo to Trincomalee by
Negombo, Puttalam, and
Anuradhapura . . .
Kandy to Jafl’na by Anurad-
hapura . . . .
Kandy to Trincomalee (with
excursion to Pollonarua) .
“X “A CD 10H
C}
QKI
403,
PAGE
383
399
404
406
408
411
413
414
416
418
422


Plan
,7
IJST OF MAPS
of Bombay . . . .
Bombay, showing Malabar Hill
Bombay and Environs
Calcutta, .
the Dherwara. Cave, Ellora
the Kailas, Ellora .
Great Tope at Sanchi
Section ,, ,, , ,
Plan
of Fort at Gwalior
Ahmedabad
the Arhai-din-ka-jhompra Mosque at Ajmere .
Delhi Palace in Fort
Delhi .
Delhi and Environs
7’ ~ - .
Sketch Plan of Humayun’s Tomb . . .
Plan
of Mosque of Kutb’l Islam and the Kutb Minar .
‘ Temple of Nimnath
the Girnar Mountain . .
Temple of Tejpala and Vastupala .
Verawal, Patan, and Somnath
Temple of Somnath
Taj Mahal at Agra .
Fort at Agra . . .
Moti Musjid, Agra Fort .
Fatehpur Sikri
Attock .
0f Sind .
of Railways to Quetta
Residency, Lucknow . . .
West half of J umma Musjid, Jaunpur
Temple of Jagannath
AND PLANS
To face
To face
To face
Toface
PAGE,
18
52
72
72
88
88
98
112
122
136
138
142
144
146
156
156
158
159
160
167
170
170
176
211
220
228
232
243
271


xii LIST or MAPS AND PLANS
Plan of Cave at Karli .
,, Poona and Kirkee .
,, Madras . . .
,, Inner Temple of Trivalur-
Bird’s-eye View, Temple of Trivalur .
Plan of Bijapur . . ,
,, Gol Gumbaz, Bijapur . .
Section of Domes, Jumma Musjid, Bijapur .
Plan of Cave at Badami
,, Temple at Pattadakal
,, Vijayanagar . . . . .
Map of Bhutan, Assam, and part of Bengal
,, Bangalore . . . . .
,, Tirumala’s Choultrie, Madura
Map of Ceylon . . .
Map of India in Sections at the End.
Railway Map, in pocket.
To face
To face
To face
To face
PAGE
287
292
303
311
311
324
325
326
334
335
346
262
369
397
424


Tour A—BOMBAY, CALCUTTA,
DELHI, KARACHI, and back.
Bombay At the beginning.
J ubbulpore (Marble Rocks,
Rte. 1).
Allahabad
. . . 1.
Calcutta, end of Rte. 1 ’(Ex-
cu;sion to Darjeeling, Rte.
20 .
Benares Rte. 1.
Lucknow . . 16.
H
Cawnpore . .
,, 18.
Agra, Rte. 9 (Gwalior Rte.,
5a; Fatehpur Sikri, Rte. 9).
Delhi, Rte. 6; Kutb, etc.,
Rte. 6.
Amritsar (Golden Temple),
Rte. 12.
Lahore, Rte. 12 (Shah Dera,
Rte. 12).
Mooltan Rte. 14.
Sukkur ,, 14.
Karachi ,,
Bombay.
40 days.2
Tour B—BOMBAY, AHMEDA-
BAD, DELHI, LAHORE, KAR-
ACE], and back.
Bombay. At the beginning.
Baroda . . . Rte. 6.
Surat . . ,, 6.
Ahmedabad . . ,, 6.
Abu Road (Mount Abu) ,, 6
Marwar, for J odhpur ,, 6.
Ajmere . ,, 6.
J eypore . . . ,, 6.
Agra, Rte. 9 Gwalior, Rte. 5A;
Fatehpur ikri, Rte. 9).
Continuation of Route as in
Tour A.
27 days.2
Tour C—BOMBAY, DELHI,
BENARES, CALCU'I'I‘A, MA-
DRAS, Poorm, and BOMBAY.
Bombay to Agra, as in Tour B.
Cawnpore Rte. 18.

CIRCULAR TOURS 1
RECOMMENDED BY MESSRS. T. COOK & SON.
Lucknow Rte. 16.
Benares ,, 1.
Patna .
. . 1.
Calcutta, end of Rte. 1”(Dar-
jeeling, Rte. 20).
Madras . Rte. 22.
Poona . ,, 22.
Bombay.
45 days.2
Tour D—BOMBAY, JUBRUL-
PORE, DELHI, BENARES,
CALCUTTA, CEYLON, CALI-
CUT, MADRAS, etc.
Bombay to J ubbulpore and_
Allahabad, as in Rte. 1. '
Cawnpore . . Rte. 18.
Agra, Rte. 9 Gwalior, Rte. 5M;
Fatehpur ikri, Rte. 9).
J eypore Rte. 6.
Alwar . . . ,, 6.
Delhi . . . ,, 6.
Lucknow ,, 16.
Benares . . . ,, 1.
Calcutta (Darjeeling Rte. 20),
end of Rte. 1.
Tuticorin Rte. 28.
Madura ,, 31.
Tanjore ,, 31.
Calicut . . ,, 28.
Madras . End of Rte. 22.
Poona . . ,, 22.
Bombay.
61 days?
Tour E—BOMBAY, Mamas,
CALCUTTA, BENARES, DELHI,
BARODA.

Bombay. At the beginning.
Madras . . Rte. 22.
Calcutta ({Darjeeling, Rte. 20),
end of te. 1.
Benares Rte. 1.
Lucknow ,, 16.
Cawnpore . . ,, 18.
Agra . ,, 9.
Delhi . ,, 6.
J eypore ,, 6.
o .
b
Alwar . Rte.
Ajmere . . . ,,
Abu Road .
Ahmedabad .
Baroda .
Surat .
Bombay.
38 days.2
6
6
,, 6.
,, 6.
,, 6.
n 6
Tour P—BOMBAY (Steamer),
TUTICORIN, MADURA, TAN-
JORE, MADE-AS, P001“, and
back.
Bombay End of Rte. 1.
Steamer thence to
Goa (Steamer) Rtes. 23, 28.
Calicut (Steamer) Rte. 28.
Tuticorin ,, 28.
Rail to .
Madura . 81
Tanjore and. Trichinb’poly,
Rte. 31.
Jalarpet (Bangalore) Rte. 28.
Madras End of Rte. 22.
Poona . . ,, 22.
Bombay
16 days.2
TourG—Bommvand back,m'a
KARACHI, LABORE, DELHI,
BENARES, J UBBULPORE.
Karachi Rte. 14.
Mooltan ,, 14.
Lahore . ,,
Amritsar ,, .
Umballa ,, 11.
Meerut ,, 11A.
Delhi
. . . 6.
Agra, Rte. 9 (Gwalior, Rt’é. 5A ;
Fatehpur Sikri, Rte. 9).
Muttra . Rte. 9.
Cawnpore ,, 18.
Lucknow ,, 16.
Benares ,, 1.
Allahabad ,, 1.
Jubbulpore . ,, 1.
Bombay.
33 days) .

1 Messrs. T. Cook 8t Son issue tickets for these tours and an explanatory pamphlet.
For their addresses in Bombay and Calcutta, see Index and Directory.
2 These figures represent the shortest limit of days given by Messrs. T. Cook & Son, for
performing the journey.
[I ndta]
b


xiv
India
CIRCULAR TOURS
Tour H—BOMBAY and back,
via CALIOUT, MADURA,
MADRAs, etc.
Bombay End of Rte. 1.
Steamer to
Calicut (Rail) Rte. 28.
Erode . . . ,, 30.
Madura . . ,, 31.
Trichinopoly . ,, 31.
Tanjore . . ,, 31.
Chingleput . . ,, 31.
Madras . . ,, 22.
Poona . . . ,, 22.
Kalyan . . - ,, 22.
Bombay
14 days.1
Tour I—BOMBAY and back,
via J UBBULPORE, CALCUT'I‘A,
BENAREs, DELHI, BARODA,
etc.
Bombay to Delhi, as in Tour A.
Delhi to Bombay, ,, ,, E.
29 days.1
Tour K—COLOMBO to BOMBAY.
Colombo Rte. 33.
Steamer to
Tuticorin (Rail) ,,
28.


Bombay to Karachi, as in
Tour G.
Karachi to Calcutta (reversed),
as in Tour A.
Calcutta to Bombay, as in
Tour A.
58 days.
Detour to Hyderabad (Dee-
can), Rte. 25,can be joined to
Tours C.D.E.F.H.K.M.N.
Detour to Bangalore and
Mysore, Rte. 29, can be
joined to Tours C. D. E.F.H.
K.L.M.N.
Detour to the Nilgiris, Rte.
30, can be joined to Tours
D.E.H.K.L.M.N.
Detour to Lahore, Rte. 12,
can be joined to Tours
C.D.E.I.K.L.M.
Detour t0 Quetta (for Kan-
dahar), Rte. 15,can be joined
to Tours A.B.G. N.
Detour to Peshawar, Rte.
13, can be joined to Tours
A. B.G.N.
Detour to Gaya, Rte. 1, can
be joined to Tours A.C.D.
E.I.K.L.M.
Detour t0 Gwalior, Rte. 5A,
can be joined to Tours A. B.
C.D.E.G.I.K.L.M.N.
Detour to Bijapur, Rte. 24,
can be joined to Tours B.D.
E.F.H.K.L.M.N.
Detour to Assam and Bra-
mahputra River, Rtes. 20A
and 203.
Madura (Rte. 31) to Bombay,
as in Tour H.
Bombay to Calcutta and Delhi,
as in Tour A.
Delhi to Bombay, as in Tour E.
45 days.1
Tour L—COLOMBO to BOMBAY,
via CALIcu'r, MADRAs, CAL-
OUTTA, DELHI, J UBBULPORE.
Colombo to Madura, as in
Tour K.
Magma to Madras, as in Tour
Madras to Calcutta (Darjeel-
ing, Rte. 20), as in Tour E.
Calcutta to Delhi,as in Tour E.
Alwar . . . Rte. 6.
Agra to Bombay (reversed), as
in Tour A.
49 days.1
Tour M—COLOMBO to BOM-
BAY, via CALIOUT, MADRAs,
BOMBAY, ALLAHABAD, BEN-
ARES, DELHI, BARODA.
Colombo to Calicut, as in Tour
Calliieut tO Bombay, as in Tour
BOEIIIibay to Delhi, as in Tour
Delhi to Bombay as in Tour
E' 43 days.1
Tour N—COLOMBO to BOMBAY,
'via CALICUT, MADRAs, BOM-
BAY, KARAOHI, LAHORE,
CALcu'rrA, ALLAIIABAD, and
BOMBAY.
Colombo to Bombay, as in
Tour H.
1 These figures represent the shortest limit of days given by Messrs. T. Cook & Son for
performing the journey.




INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION
ENGLISH LANGUAGE
A TRIP to India is no longer a formidable journey or one that
requires very special preparation. The Englishman who undertakes it
merely passes from one portion of the British Empire to another. The
hotel tout who on arrival worries him on board the steamer does his
worry in English; at the hotel every one speaks English; and the
pedlars who sit in long lines in the verandah importune him to buy
in the same language. In the shops he will find expensive but very
good articles for all ordinary requirements, and will be attended by a
person speaking English fluently.
RAILWAYS
Each railway company publishes an elaborate time-table and list of
fares. In Bombay, the Indian A.B.G. Guide and the Indian Railway
Travellers’ Guide, and in Calcutta, Newman’s Indian Bradshaw, give
good maps, and the railway routes for all India, besides steamer routes
and short notices of the most important places usually visited by
travellers. The Railway Companies in India do much for the comfort
of travellers throughout the country. Every 1st and 2d class com-
partment is provided with a lavatory, and the seats, which are unusually
deep, are so arranged as to form couches at night. There are refresh-
ment rooms at frequent intervals, and some of them are very well
managed and supplied. The Station-masters are particularly civil and
obliging, and, as a rule, are most useful to travellers in providing
ponies, conveyances, or accommodation at out-of-the-way stations if
notice is given them beforehand ; they will also receive letters
addressed to their care,—this is often a convenience to travellers.
Samson FOR VISIT TO INDIA
The season for a pleasant visit to the plains of India. lies between
15th November and 10th March, but in the Panjab these dates may
be slightly extended; then, however, the heat will be found trying
at the ports of arrival and departure. October and April are as trying
months as any in the year, much more so than July, August, and
September, when rain cools the atmosphere.


xvi CLOTHING India.


CLOTHING
Not very long ago it was thought essential to have a special outfit
prepared for a journey to India This is scarcely the case now.
For the Voyage a few warm clothes for the northern part
and thin ones for the Red Sea and Arabian Sea are required. As
regards the lighter clothes, a man will find it convenient to have a
very thin suit of cloth or grey flannel for day, and a thin black coat
for dinner. It is not necessary to dress for dinner on board ship.
A lady cannot do better than provide herself with thin skirts of
tnssore-silk or some such material, and thin flannel or silk shirts.
Shoes with indie-rubber soles are the best for the deck, as they afford
good foothold when the vessel is unsteady.
On Baggage-days, which occur once a week, boxes marked wanted on
voyage may be brought up from the hold, and suitable clothes taken
out or stowed away according to the temperature and weather.
For a. winter tour in the plains of India, a traveller requires
similar clothing to that which he would wear in the spring or autumn
in England, but in addition he must take very warm winter wraps.
A man should have a light overcoat in which he can ride, and a warm
long ulster for night travelling or in the early morning. A lady, be-
sides a jacket and shawl, should have a very thin dust-cloak, and a loose
warm cloak to wear in a long drive before the sun rises, or to sleep
in at night when roughing it. Tourists should remember that the
evening dews are so heavy-as to absolutely wet the outer garment, the
nights and mornings are quite cold, and yet the middle of the day is
always warm, sometimes very hot, so that the secret of dressing is to
begin the day in things that can be thrown 011' as the heat increases.
In Bombay and Calcutta, and, in fact, all along the coast and
in the south of the peninsula, much thinner clothing is required.
Cool linen suits for men, and very thin dresses for ladies, also Karkee
riding and shooting-suits, can be got cheaper and better in India than
in England. Linen and underclothing for at least three weeks should
be taken,—with less the traveller on arrival may be inconvenienced, or
even detained until his board-ship clothes are washed. The Indian
washermen, though not as bad as they used to be, destroy things rather
rapidly. Winter clothing will be necessary if it is intended to visit
the hill-stations. Flannel or woollen underclothing and sleeping
garments and a “ cholera belt ” are strongly recommended.
The hospitality of India involves a considerable amount of dining
out, and therefore a lady, unless she intends to eschew society, should
be provided with several evening dresses. Riding-breeches or trousers
for men, and riding-habits for ladies should not be forgotten.
A good sun hat is an essential. The Term; hat (two soft felt hats
fitting one over the other) might suffice for the coolest months, but


Introd. BEDDING—TRAVELLING SERVANTS xvii
even in cold weather the midday sun in India is dangerous, and it is
therefore advisable to wear a cork or pith helmet, which is lighter and
better ventilated, and afl‘ords better protection from the sun than the
Terai, and is indispensable in real hot weather. Many London hatters
have a large choice of sun~hats and helmets for ladies as well as men.
The Sula or pith hats are very light, but brittle and soon spoilt by rain ;
they can be bought in India very cheaply. A thick white umbrella is
also a necessary, especially for a lady, and a straw hat for the cool hours
of the morning and evening will be found a great convenience.
Travellers in Ceylon will seldom require anything but the thinnest
of clothing, except in the mountains, where the temperature becomes
proportionately cooler as he ascends. At Kandy he may often require
a light overcoat, and at Nuwara Eliya warm wraps and underclothing
are necessary.
BEDDING
Every traveller who contemplates a tour must on arrival in India
provide himself with some bedding. Except at the best hotels,
there is either no bedding at all or there is the chance of its being
dirty. The minimum equipment is a pillow and two cotton wadded
quilts (Razais), one to sleep on, the other as a coverlet. The ready-
made ones are usually very thin, but they can be got to order of any
thickness. To these should be added a pillow case, cheap calico sheets,
and a blanket. A rough waterproof cover to wrap the bedding in must
not be omitted, or the first time the bedding is carried any distance by a
culi or packed on a pony it may be very much dirtied. A water-
proof sheet is a very valuable addition to the bedding, but cannot be
called an absolute necessity for a short tour. Without such a modest
supply of covering as is here indicated, a traveller may at any time have
to spend a. night shivering in the cold, which would probably result in
an attack of ague. An indie-rubber hotwater bottle takes up very
little room and will often be found very handy.
TRAVELLING SERVANTS
A good travelling servant, a native who can speak English, is indis-
pensable, but should on no account be engaged without a good personal
character or the recommendation of a trustworthy agent. Such a
servant is necessary not only to wait on his master at hotels, dak
bungalows, and even in private houses, where without him he would
be but poorly served ; but in a hundred different ways when travelling
by rail or otherwise, and as an interpreter and go-between when dealing
with natives. Having ascertained beforehand from his agent the fair
wages which his servant ought to be paid, the master should take care
to come to some definite arrangement with him before engaging him.
If the servant proves satisfactory, it is the custom to make him a small


xviii HOTELS—DAK BUNGALOWS—FOOD—SPORT India
present before parting with him. The same remarks apply to a lady’s
ayah. Madras ayahs though expensive are considered the best. If
the traveller has friends “up country,” it is well to write beforehand
and ask them to engage a servant for him, and to send him to meet
his master at the port of arrival. “Up-country” servants are often
cheaper and more reliable than those to be met with on the coast.
Hornns
He who expects to find good hotels in India, up to the European
standard of excellence, will be disappointed. At the best they are
indifferent. At all the chief towns large airy rooms can be procured,
but the traveller will not be properly waited upon unless he brings a
servant of his own with him. He should give notice beforehand of his
intended arrival, as the hotels are often crowded in the tourist season.
DAK BUNGALOWS
With regard to dak bungalows (travellers’ rest-houses established
by Government), it is advisable, if possible, to make some inquiries
beforehand as to their accommodation. In some cases the keeper in
charge has facilities for procuring food, in others the traveller has to
bring provisions with him, and in some D.Bs. there are neither servants
nor provisions. Rooms cannot be retained beforehand—the first
comer has the preference. After occupying a DB. for twenty-four
hours the traveller must give place, if necessary, to the next comer.
Rns'r-Honsns
The Rest-House of Ceylon is more like an hotel than the Dak
Bungalow in India, in that it is more frequently furnished with
bedding and linen, and food is generally provided.
F001)
As a rule, the food in India is not good. The meat, with exception
of buffaloes’ hump, is lean and tough, and the fowls are skinny and
small. Bread is fairly good ; but milk and butter it is usually well to
avoid, owing to the promiscuous manner in which the cows feed.
Typhoid fever, which of late years has been considerably on the
increase, is thought by some authorities to be spread by the milk,
which, as is well known, is very sensitive to contagion.
It is necessary for every traveller to be provided with a Tifliwbaslcet,
which should contain some simplefittings, and always kept furnished with
potted meats, biscuits, some good spirit and soda-water, which is good and
cheap in India ; added to this an Etna will be found a great convenience.
SPORT
No attempt is here made to give advice to sportsmen, though some
sporting localities have been indicated. The equipment for these


Introd. BOOKS—ANCIENT MONUMENTS xix
amusements vary from day to day, and each man must best know his
own wants. Large-game shooting is a. very expensive amusement and
takes time. It is very doubtful if any one unacquainted with India
would succeed, unless he had introductions to men who would put him
in the way of making a fair start.
Small-game shooting, with an occasional shot at an antelope, is an
easier matter. Such sport could often be got at very small cost by spend-
ing a night or two at some wayside railway station not near a cantonment
where there is a waiting-room or a travellers’ bungalow. Near can-
tonments the ground is always too much shot over to afford good sport.
Firearms are subject to a heavy duty when brought into the country.
Booxs
A traveller who would appreciate what he sees on his journey and
enjoy it in an intelligent manner must have some books of reference,
and yet how few carry even one.
The three 1 following will well repay their cost :—
(a) The Indian Empire, its People, History, and Products, by Sir
W. W. Hunter (Triibner & Co.) ‘
(1)) History of Indian and Eastern Architecture, by James Fergusson
(John Murray).
(c) A Glossary of Anglo-Indian Words and Phrases, by Sir Henry Yule
and Arthur C. Burnell (John Murray).
Besides the above, it is most desirable for a stranger to India to
have a simple guide to the language, this he will find in How to Speak
Hindustani, by E. Rogers, 1s. (Allen & C0.)
The following books will also be found both interesting and
instructive: Asiatic Studies, by Sir Alfred Lyall, 1 vol.; Industrial
Arts of India, by Sir George Birdwood (Chapman); Archleol. Sure. of
West of India, by James Burgess (Triibner) ; A Short History of India,
by Talboys Wheeler, 1 vol. ; A History of the Indian Mutiny, by Home;
Ancient and Mediteeal India, by Mrs. Manning, 2 vols. ; Indian
IVisdom, by Sir Monier Williams, 1 vol. ; Se'ta, Tara, Tippoo Sultaun,
and A Noble Queen, by Meadows Taylor.
Intending visitors to Ceylon are strongly recommended to study
the account of that island by Sir J. Emerson Tennent, K.C.S., LL.D.,
2 vols., 8vo (Longman), 1859. It has never yet been superseded.
Sir Monier Williams’s Buddhism, 1 vol., 8vo (Murray), 1889.
THE PRESERVATION or Aucrnur Monumuurs
The striking architectural monuments of India—Hindu and
1 The titles of the first two books state fairly their contents. Fergusson's
illustrations alone are invaluable to a traveller. In Yule's Glossary there is
a wealth of learning the title-page alone would not lead an inquirer to expect,
and it 0 ens up glimpses of the lives led by our European predecessors in the
East which cannot fail to attract any one who follows in their footsteps.


xx ENGLAND 'ro PORT sAID India
Mohammedan—must largely attract the attention of the tourist, and
the means, or rather want of means, taken for their preservation
must be a subject of frequent remark. Partly under outside pressure,
Government has made various attempts at conservation, but being
carried out through the engineering staff of the Public Works Depart-
ment,—the ofiicers of which have not necessarily any intimate knowledge
of architecture,—their work has too frequently been seriously injurious
to the monuments to be repaired. Lamentable examples of this
mischievous policy are numerous. What has been wanted is the
guidance of the trained architect who would strictly confine himself to
the work of preservation and eschew everything of the nature of restor-
ation, which some engineers have been too fond of. Were this done
in connection with the Archaeological Survey, the monuments of India
might be rationally conserved at a minimum of outlay. The Govern-
ment of India carried on for many years an Archaeological Survey, alto-
gether dissociated from any conservation of the architectural monuments,
with which it concerned itself little, if at all, but rather with the
identification of ancient sites, coins, dates, and relics of long-forgotten
times, interesting chiefly to the savant. A few years ago a change
in this respect was attempted, and a careful survey of the monumental
remains at J aunpur, Badaun, Fatehpur-Sikri, etc. , was begun 3 but the
surveys were again reduced in 1889, and only one architectural assist-
ant and a few native draftsmen were retained in Upper India. Were
this department oflicered by competent architects in the Panjab, Bengal,
and Bajputana, who could authoritatively advise Government on
questions of conservation, the safety of the monuments would be
insured, as well as the survey. In Southern and Western India, if we
except Bijapur, which seems to have been wholly handed over to the
P. W. engineer, the monuments have generally been treated with
consideration, but many have been too much neglected.
VOYAGE FROM ENGLAND TO PORT SAID, AND THROUGH THE SUEZ
CANAL TO ADEN, GALLE, AND BOMBAY
It is not possible to make any general recommendation as to the
line of steamers by which a traveller should engage his passage to India—-
each of the well-established lines has its special advantages; they differ
in their ports of departure, their ports of destination, and the places
they call at on the way.
The cost of the passage varies considerably. Particular communities
and professions patronise certain lines, most persons desiring to travel
in ships in which they are likely to find themselves amongst genial
companions. An intending traveller cannot do better than apply to
Messrs. Thos. Cook 8: Son for advice. Their knowledge of the
various lines will enable them to giVe practical assistance, and to select
_-___----__ M _ 4


Introd. ENGLAND T0 PORT sAID xxi
a ship suitable for each class of applicant. Their London offices are
at Ludgate Circus, Charing Cross, and 35 Piccadilly, W.
The comfort of the voyage depends much on the choice of the ship,
and the cabin. The largest ships, as having less motion and more
room on deck, are usually preferable to smaller ones. The cabin
should be as near the centre of the ship as possible. In going through
the Red Sea to India the cabins on the port side are the best, as they
do not get heated by the afternoon sun. On the return voyage the
cabins on the starboard side are better, but the difference is not
material. On going on board it is well to secure a seat at table at
once, with friends, or in whatever place is most desired, as after the
first day at sea, when seats have been arranged, it is difficult to make a
change; the best seats are allotted to the first occupants, or to those
who first place their cards there.
It is usual to give at least 10s. as a fee to the cabin steward, and 10s.
to the one who waits on you at table. The doctor also is fee’d by those
who put themselves under his care. Going by sea from England, through
the Bay of Biscay, the saving in point of money, as compared with the
expense of the overland route across the Continent Of Europe is about
£15. It involves much less trouble, and little or no risk of losing
baggage. To those who have not before seen Gibraltar, Malta, and the
Suez Canal, the voyage is not without objects Of interest. Between the
Channel and these places there is seldom much to be seen. The first
place sighted is generally Cape La. Hague, or Hogue, on the E. coast
Of Cotentin in France, Off which, on the 19th Of May 1692 Admiral
Russell, afterwards Earl of Oxford, defeated De Tourville, and sunk or
burned 16 French men-of-war. Then Cape Finisterre (finis tame), a
promontory on the W. coast of Galicia in Spain, and in N. lat. 42° 54’,
and W. long. 9° 20', will probably be seen, off which Anson defeated
the French fleet in 1747. The next land sighted will be, perhaps,
Cape Roca, near Lisbon, and then Cape St. Vincent in N. lat. 37° 3’,
W. long. 8°59', at the SW. corner of the Portuguese province Algarve,
off which Sir G. Rodney, on the 16th January 1 780 defeated the
Spanish fleet, and Sir J. Jervis won his earldom on the 14th of
February 1797, and Nelson the Bath, after taking the S. Josef and
the S. Nicholas of 112 guns each. This cape has a fort upon it,
and the white clifi‘s, 150 feet high, are honeycombed by the waves,
which break with great violence upon them. Just before entering the
Straits of Gibraltar, Cape Trafalgar will also probably be seen in N.
lat. 36° 9', W. long. 6° 1’, immortalised by Nelson’s'victory of the
21st Of October 1805. Gibraltar comes next in sight, and the distances
between England and it and the remaining halting-places will be seen
in the following table extracted from the pocket-book published by
the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company. This little
book, costing only 2a., cannot be too highly recommended to all travellers
from England passing through the Suez Canal.


xxii GIBRALTAR India
TABLE or DISTANCES BETWEEN THE vsnrons Pom-s ACCORDING TO THE Rou'rEs TAKEN BY TH!
STEAMERS OF THE PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY
London (if via Plymouth add 50)
Plymouth




Gibraltar
Marseilles ‘
981 ‘ Malta Malta to Port Said direct . . 935 miles. I i
—l Naples 1




Via Brindia'i
r_*-—\
5
5'5" MM“
8


Trieste




From London by sea, direct.
7551
From London by sea, via, Naples.


Venice
From London by sea, via Marseilles.
Ancons
Brindisi
Alexandria
Port Said
Ismailia
Aden
Bombay
Colombo
Calcutta 1
Calcutta2
1 Calling at Madras. 3 Omitting Madras.
GIBRALTAR—T0 see this most remarkable place properly, it would
be requisite to leave the steamer and wait for the next. As the steamers
never stop for more than 4 hours, passengers rarely find time for any-
thing beyond a walk in the town and lower fortifications. This is a
good place to buy tobacco, as there is no duty and it is cheap. There
are steamers from Gibraltar two or three times a week to Tangiers.
Gibraltar was reckoned as one of the Pillars of Hercules, the other
being Abyla, now Apes’ Hill'. Gibraltar was taken from the Spaniards
in 711 A.D. by Tarik ibn Zayad, from whom it was called Jabal a1
Tarik= Gibraltar ; and it was retaken 1309 ; and not finally wrested
from the Moors till 1503. In 1704 it was taken by the English and
sustained many sieges by French and Spaniards between 1704 and 1779,
when they commenced the memorable siege which lasted 4 years, and
ended by the repulse of the combined fleets of France and Spain by


Introd. GIBRALTAR xxiii
the garrison under General Elliott. Since that time it has remained
an uncontested possession of the English.
The Rock of Gibraltar first comes in sight at the distance of about
10 m. Rounding Point Carnero, and breasting Europa Point, the
spacious but exposed bay 6 m. wide and 10 m. deep is entered. The
defensive strength of the place is not at once perceptible. Two tiers of
batteries are concealed in galleries hewn out of the rock half-way up,
or lie so near to the sea-line that they are hidden by the vessels moored
around. Gibraltar is a vast rocky promontory, which on the N. side
rises in a perpendicular precipice 1200 ft. high, and ascends in the
centre to 1408 ft. It is 3 m. in length, and from % m. to m. in breadth.
It is joined to the mainland by a low sandy isthmus, 1% in. in length.
On all sides but the W. it is steep and rugged, but on that side there
is a general slope from 200 to 300 ft. from the rock down to the sea.
On this side the eye catches three high points: N. is the Rock Gun,
or Wolf’s Crag, 1337 ft. ; in the centre the Upper Signal Station,
or E1 Hacho, 1255 ft. high ; and S. is O'Hara’s Tower, 1408 ft.
Here the rock descends to Windmill Hill Flats, a level plateau %
m. long, which ends in a still lower plateau from 100 to 50 ft. above
the sea, called Europa Flats. The new mole, landing-place, and dock-
yard are on the W. of O’Hara’s Tower.
Passports are rigidly exacted on landing from all but British subjects,
and sketching is, under all circumstances, strictly prohibited. The
hours of gun-fire vary according to the time of year, but are easily
ascertained; a few minutes later all gates are shut and not opened
again till sunrise.
Walk or drive up Main Street as far as the Alameda, where the
band plays ; it was the parade-ground until 1814, when Sir George Don
made a garden of it, and it is now really lovely. Notice 9. column
brought from the ruins of Lepida, surmounted by a bust of the Duke of
Wellington, also a bust of General Elliott, the hero of the great siege.
Half-way is the Exchange, containing a commercial library, with the
Club House to the W., and the King’s Arms Hotel to the E. The
English Cathedral Church of the Holy Trinity, built in the Moorish
style in 1832, stands near the centre of the town. Returning through
the South Port Gate, look at the dockyard, and passing by the South
Barracks, take the lower of two roads to Europa Point, N.E. of which
is another range of barracks. Beyond these, on the E. shore, is the
summer residence of the Governors, called “The Cottage,” built by
General Fox. The Governor’s official residence in South Port Street,
which is still called “The Convent,” once belonged to Franciscan friars.
Those remaining seVeral days will have time to explore the Heights
and fortifications, for which purpose an order from the military secre-
tary is necessary. From the Rock Gun there is a fine view of the
Ronda Mountains and the Sierra Nevada 3 the Moorish Castle is on


xxiv MALTA India
the way (7 46 A.D.) ; under a massive tower, called the Torre de
Omenaga, are some well-constructed tanks ; and beyond, the wonderful
galleries excavated by convict labour. At the Signal House refresh-
ments can be obtained, and from it is a noble view, which includes the
Atlas Mountains, Ceuta, and Barbary, ending with the Bay of Tangiers.
Between Rock Gun and O’Hara’s Tower live a. few monkeys, which
are jealously protected. S. of the Signal Station, and 1100 ft. above
the sea, is the celebrated St. Michael’s Cave, open twice a week; an
entrance only 6 ft. wide leads into a hall 200 ft. long and 60 ft. high
supported by stalactite pillars like Gothic arches. Beyond are smaller
caves, which have been traversed to a distance of 288 ft. In Windmill
Hill are the four Genista caves, where many bones of men and animals
have been discovered.
Beyond the Land Port Gate is a causeway leading into Spain, with
the sea on the left, and the “ Inundation,” a sheet of water so-called,
0n the right. Beyond these is the North Front, where are the ceme-
tery, the cricket-ground, and the race-course. The eastern beach, called
“ Ramsgate and Margate,” is the general afternoon resort. Across the
isthmus is a line of English sentries, then the Neutral Ground, and then
the Spanish sentries. 6 m. from Gibraltar is a small hill, on the top of
which is the town of S. Roque, and 1 In. beyond the ruins of the
ancient city of Carteia are passed. 4 m. from S. Roque is an inn,
and then a ride through the cork woods of about 4 n1. brings the
visitor to the Convent of Almorainia and the Long Stables. 10 m.
from Gibraltar by land, and beyond the rivers Guadarauque and
Palmones, is the town of Algesiras, where there is good anchorage,
and steamers to various ports in Spain.
MALTA. —-Ou the wayfrom Gibraltar to Malta, Algiers may possibly
be seen, its white buildings stretching like a triangle with its base on
the sea, and the apex on higher ground. Cape Fez, and the promon-
tory of the Seven Capes, jagged, irregular headlands, are passed on the
starboard side, also Cape Ben, the most northern point of Africa, and
the Island of Pantellaria, the ancient Cossyra, between Cape Bon and
Sicily. It is 8 m. long, volcanic, and rises to a height of more than
2000 ft. There is a town of the same name near the sea-shore, on the
western slope, where there is much cultivation. It is used by the
Italians as a penal settlement, and is rather smaller than Gozo. The
Maltese group of islands consists of Gozo, Comino, and Malta, and
stretches from N .W. to SE, the total distance from San Dimitri, the
most W. point of Gozo, to Ras Benhisa, the most S. part of Malta,
being about 25 m. From the nearest point of Gozo to Sicily is 55 m.,
and Africa is 187 m. distant from Malta.
Malta lies in N. lat. 35° 53' 49”, E. long. 14° 30' 28”. It is 17
m. long and 8 broad. Its area, together with that of Gozo, is 116
sq. m., and the population of the three islands is about 150,000. It


Introd. MALTA xxv
is a calcareous rock, the highest point being 590 ft. above the sea-level.
Towards the S. it ends in precipitous cliffs. It has a barren appear-
ance, but there are many fertile gardens and fields, enclosed in high
walls, where fine oranges, grapes, and figs, and other crops, returning
from thirty to sixty fold, are grown. The Maltese language is a mix-
ture of Arabic and Italian, but most of the townspeople have sufficient
knowledge of Italian to transact business in that tongue. The port of
Malta is situated somewhat to the E. of the centre of the northern
shore of the island. It consists of two fine harbours, separated by the
narrow promontory called Mount Xiberras, or Sciberras. The western
or quarantine harbour, protected by Fort Tigna. on the W., is called
Marsamuscatta; the other is Valetta, or the great harbour,—it is
there that the men-of-war are moored. The entrance to the great
harbour is protected on the W. by Fort St. Elmo at the end of
Sciberras, and on the E. by Fort Ricasoli, both very formidable. At
Fort St. Elmo is one of the finest lighthouses in the Mediterranean.
The great harbour runs away into numerous creeks and inlets, in which
are the dockyard, victualling-yard, and arsenal, all of which could be
swept by the guns of St. Angelo, which is a fort behind St. Elmo.
The mail steamers are moored in the quarantine harbour, and the
charge for landing is one shilling for a. boat, which will carry four
people. On landing, a long flight of steps is ascended to the Strada.
San Marco, which leads to the principal street, Strada. Beale,
% m. long, in the town of Valetta, so-called from Jean de la Valette,
Grand Master of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who built it
after the Turkish armament sent against Malta by Sultan Suleiman II.
had been repulsed. The foundation stone was laid on the 28th of
March 1566, and the whole town, designed by one architect, Girolanio
Cassar, was completed in May 1571. On the E. side of the great
harbour is the town called Citta. Vittoriosa.
Left of the Strada Reale is St. John's Cathedral, a remarkable
church, both historically and architecturally, designed by Cassar.
The floor is paved with slabs bearing the arms of scores of knights
who have been interred in this church. In the first chapel on the
right, the altar-piece represents the beheading of John the Baptist, and
is by M. Angelo Caravaggio. In the next chapel, which belonged to
the Portuguese, are the monuments of Manoel Pinto and Grand Master
Manoel de Vilhena, which latter is of bronze. The third, or Spanish
chapel, has the monuments of Grand Masters Perellos and N. Cotoner,
and two others. The fourth chapel belonged to the Provencals. The
fifth chapel is sacred to the Virgin, and here are kept the town keys
taken from the Turks. On the left of the entrance is a bronze monu-
ment of Grand Master Marc Antonio Sondadario. The first chapel on
the left is the sacristy. The second chapel belonged to the Austrians,
the third to Italians, and here are pictures, ascribed to Caravaggio, of


xxvi MALTA India
St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene. The fourth is the French chapel,
the fifth the Bavarian, and hence a staircase descends to the crypt,
where are the sarcophagi 0f the first Grand Master who ruled in Malta,
L’Isle Adam, and of La Valette and others.
The Governor’s Palace, formerly the Grand Master’s, close to the
Strada Reale, is a noble range of buildings, containing marble-paved
corridors and staircase, and many portraits, and armed figures carrying
the shields of all the Governors from the first Grand Master to the
present day. The armoury is full of interesting relics, including the
original deed granted to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem by Pope
Pascal II. in 1126, and the deed when they left Rhodes in 1522. The
Library, close to the Palace, contains 40,000 volumes, and some Phoe-
nician and Roman antiquities. The highest battery commands a fine
view of both harbours and of the fortifications. There are several statues
of Grand Masters and Governors in the walk on the ramparts. The
Opera. House, the Bourse, the Courts of Justice, once the Auberge
d’Auvergne, and the Clubs (the Union Club was the Auberge de
Provence), and the statues of L’Isle Adam and La Valette, are all in
the Strada Reale. The Auberge d’Italie is now the engineer’s oflice ;
the Auberge de Castille has become the headquarters of the Artillery ;
the Auberge de France, in the Strada Mezzodi, is now the house of the
Comptroller of Military Stores; and the Auberge d’Aragon is where
the General of the Garrison resides. The Auberge d’Allemagne was
removed in order to erect St. Paul’s Church on its site. The Anglo-
Bavarian Auberge is the headquarters of the regiment stationed at St.
Elmo. The Military Hospital has the largest room in Europe, 480
ft. long, erected in 1628 by Grand Master Vasconcelos. Below the
Military Hospital is the Civil Hospital for Incurables, founded by
Caterina Scappi in 1646. Where the Strada Mercanti joins the Strada
S. Giovanni a large hook may be observed, which formerly served as
the Pillory. For further information consult the Guide to Malta,
included in Murray’s Handbook to the Mediterranean. The island on
which the Quarantine House stands was captured by the Turks in 1565.
The Parlettario there is a long, narrow room near the anchorage, divided
by a barrier, where the gold and silver filigree-work, the cameos, brace-
lets and brooches in mosaic, and other br'g'outer'ie for which Malta is
famous are sold. - Maltese lace and silk embroidery should be bought
under the advice of an expert, for the vendors in general demand
extravagant prices. In the wall of a house in Strada Strella and Strada
Britannica is a stone with an Arabic inscription, dated Thursday 16th
Shaban 569 AB. = 21st March 1174 A.D., for which see Journal Roy.
As. Soc. vol. vi. p. 173.
Five m. beyond the landing-stairs is the Governor’s country Palace
of S. Antonio, where is a lovely garden with creepers of astonishing.
beauty, and cypresses 40 ft. high, as well as many luxuriant orange


Introd. MALTA xxvii
trees About % no. farther to the SW. is Oitta Vecchia, which
stands on a ridge from 200 to 300 ft. high, affording a view over nearly
the whole island. There is a fine church here, St. Paul’s ; near it are
some curious catacombs. This is all that it is possible to see during the
short stay steamers usually make, but those who have more leisure can
visit St. Paul's Bay at the NW. extremity of the island, with the
statue of bronze erected on an islet at the mouth of the bay. Also
the Carthaginian or Phoenician ruins at Hagiar Chem, properly Hajar
Kaim, “ upright stone,” near the village of Casal Crendi, 1% hour’s drive
from Valetta These ruins, excavated in 1839, consist of walls of large
stones fixed upright in the ground, forming small enclosures, connected
with one another by passages, and all contained within one large enclos-
ure. The building is thought to have been a temple of Baal and
Astarte. The main entrance is on the S.S.E., and a passage leads from
it into a court, on the left of which is an altar, with the semblance
of a plant rudely sculptured on it. Similar remains are found in other
parts of Malta and in G020.
Malta is said to have been occupied by the Phoenicians in 1500 12.0.,
and by the Greeks in 750 13.0. The Carthaginians got possession of it
in 500 13.0., and the Romans took it after the sea-fight of Putatia in
215 13.0. The Goths and Vandals invaded it in 420 AD. In 520 A.D.
Belisarius made it a province of the Byzantine Empire, the Moslems
conquered it in 730 A 1)., and Count Roger, the Norman, captured it in
1100 A.D. It then passed to Louis IX., to the Count of Anjou, and to
the Kings of Castile, and then to Charles V., who gave it, in 1530, to
the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. On 18th May 1565
the Turks attacked St. Elmo, St. Angelo, and Sanglea, but the siege was
raised on the 8th of September (see Major Whitworth Porter’s History
of the Knights of Malta, Longmans, 1858). The Knights had their own
mint, fleet, and army, and accredited ambassadors to foreign Courts.
In the archives are letters from Henry VIII., Charles II., and Anne,
addressed to them as princes. On the 7th of September 1792 the
French Directory commanded the Order to be annulled, and seized all
its French possessions. On the 7th of June 1798 Bonaparte arrived
with a fleet of 18 ships of the line, 18 frigates, and 600 transports,
and Malta was surrendered. A tree of liberty was planted before the
Palace, the decorations of the Knights were burned, and the churches,
palaces, and charitable houses at Valetta and Citta Vecchia were
pillaged. On the 2d of September 1798, when the French tried to
pull down the decorations in the Cathedral, :1 general revolt took
place, and Nelson sent Captain Alexander John Ball with a frigate to
aid the Maltese, and himself blockaded Valetta. The French were
reduced to such extremities that a rat sold for ls. 7d., and on the 5th
of September 1800 their commander, General Vaubois, surrendered.
Over the main guard-room in St. George’s Square is written :


xxviii EGYPT, PORT SAID, AND snnz CANAL India
“ Magna: et invictaa Britannia
Melitensium amor et Europae vox
- Has insulas confirmat A.D. 1814.”
EGYPT, PORT SAID, AND THE SUEZ CANAL—The land about
Port Said is so low, that the approach to the harbour would be difficult
were it not for a lighthouse 160 ft. high, built of concrete, which
stands on the sea-shore to the right of the harbour close to the W.
mole, and shows an electric light flashing every 20 seconds, and visible
20 in. off. The harbour is formed by two breakwaters, 1500 yards
apart, built of concrete, the western 2726 yards long, the eastern 1962
yards long. A red light is shown at the end of the W. mole, and a.
green one at the end of the E. The depth of water at the entrance is
30 ft. Since the works were begun, the sea has receded % m., and a
bank has formed to the NW. of the entrance, having only 4 to 5
fathoms water on it, and it increases, being caused by a current which
sets along the shore, and meeting the sea rolling in from the N., is
forced back, and deposits its silt. Inside the W. jetty another bank
is forming, and extends 100 ft. every year. In 1874 the channel.
was dredged out in December to 29 ft., and by February 1875 it had
filled again to 25 ft. Port Said town is modern, and most unin-
viting, and consists mainly of wooden houses, chiefly low cafés and
gambling-houses, with some shops; it is a very important coaling-station.
Opposite the anchorage on the Marina is the French office, where pilots
are got, and where they take a note of the ship’s draught, breadth,
length, and tonnage. In this office there is a wooden plan of the
canal, along which wooden pegs, with flags, are placed, showing the
exact position of every vessel passing through the canaL The Arab
quarter lies to the W., and contains over 6600 souls and}. mosque.
The Place de Lesseps in the centre of this quarter has a garden,
and some houses of a better sort. The streets swarm with flies, and
mosquitoes also are numerous.
The Canal} opened in 1870, is in round numbers 100 m. in
length, and as far as Ismailia, that is for about 42 m., it runs due N.
and S. It then bends to the E. for about 35 m., and is again almost
straight for the last 20 In.
The following are the dimensions of the canal (see Handbook of
Egypt).
Width at water-line, where banks are low . . 328 ft.
,, in deep cutting . . . 190 ,,
,, at base . . . . . 72 ,,
Depth . 26 ,,
Slope of bank at water-line 1 in 5 ; hear base 1. in 2:
Every few In. there is a gare, or station, and a siding with signal
posts, by which the traffic is regulated according to the block system
1 For a history of the canal, sce Handbook of Egypt, John Murray.


I 'ntrod. ISMAILIA xxix
by hoisting black balls. Every year the navigation is rendered easier
by the construction of additional sidings. Traffic is carried on through
the canal at night by the aid of electric light. Vessels must not
move faster than 6 m. an hour.
On the W. of the canal, as far as Al Kantarah (the Bridge), that
is for about one-fourth of the way, there is a broad expanse of water,
called Lake Manzalah, and for the rest of the distance to the W., and
the whole distance to the E., a sandy desert, on which foxes, jackals,
hyenas, and, it is said, occasionally even lions, wander at night. 21 m.,
or 34 kil., from Kantarah, and 20 In. from Port Said, the old Pelusiac
branch of the Nile is crossed, and 8 m. to the SE. are the ruins of the
ancient city of Pelusium. At Kantarah the canal intersects the
caravan-track between Egypt and Syria, and is crossed by a. flying
bridge; a. traveller should go on the upper deck of his ship when
approaching it, as, if a caravan chances to be passing, it is a. most in-
teresting sight. 10 m. to the W. is Tel 81 Daphne, the site of
Daphne, the Taphnes of Judith, i. 9. At 2 m. S. of Kantarah
the canal enters the Lake Ballah, and after 12 n1. reaches the pro-
montory Al Fardanah, which it cuts through. Thence, after 4% m.,
it reaches A1 Girsh, the highest ground in the isthmus, 65 ft. above
sea-level. There was a great camp here when the works were in pro-
gress. A staircase of 100 steps led down to the canal. Beyond this,
near the entrance to Lake Timsah, a small canal joins the maritime
canal to the Fresh-Water Canal. The difference of level is 17 ft,
which is overcome by two locks. A steam-launch comes to meet
steamers on the canal, and land passengers for
ISMAILIA, pop. 4000, which has now much of the importance and
traffic that formerly belonged to Suez; the mails and passengers for
Egypt are landed here—hotel. A broad road lined with trees leads from
the landing-place across the Fresh-Water Canal to the Quai Mehemet,
and traverses the town from E. to W. In the W. quarter are the
stations, the landing-quays of the Fresh-Water Canal, and large blocks
of warehouses, and beyond them the Arab village. In the E. part are
the houses of the employés, the residence of the Khedive, which was
used as a. military hospital during the English occupation of Ismailia,
in' 1882, and the works by which water is pumped from the Fresh-
Water Canal to Port Said. These are worth visiting. At Ismailia
there is much vegetation, and some good houses,—one belongs to M.
de Lesseps. There is good water-fowl shooting here, and some ante-
lopes are to be found. The fish of Lake Timsah are better flavoured
than those of the Mediterranean. Lake 'I‘imsah, or Bahr a1 Timsah,
“the Lake of the Crocodile,” to which the Red Sea. is said to have
formerly extended, is crossed in about 2% m. The course is marked
by buoys. After 4 m. the canal reaches the higher ground of Tussum,
where the level of the desert is 20 ft. above the sea, and here the first
[India] 0


xxx SUEZ India
working encampment in the S. half of the isthmus was formed in
1859. Three in. to the S. is Serapeum, where the level is from 15 to
25 ft. above the sea, so called from some remains of a temple of Serapis.
A mile and a half from this the canal enters the Bitter Lakes,
where the course is buoyed. These lakes are the ancient Gulf of
Heraeopolis. At the N. and S. end of the principal lake is an iron
lighthouse 65 ft. high, on a solid masonry base. After 28 m. the deep
cutting of Shaluf is reached, in which is a band of sandstone, with
layers of limestone and conglomerate, in which fossil remains of the
shark, hippopotamus, tortoise, and whale have been found. From this
to the Suez mouth of the canal is 12% In. Some think that the pas-
sage of the Israelites was through the Gulf of Herzeopolis.
All the way from Ismailia the banks are fringed with vegetation,
and the plain on either side is dotted with bushes. There is a little
fishing in the canal for those who like the amusement, and at Suez there
is a great variety of fish.
SUEZ—The chief historical interest of Suez is derived from its having
been supposed to be the spot near which the Israelites crossed the Red
Sea under the guidance of Moses, and where the Egyptian army was
drowned, but modern criticism tends to place the scene of this event
farther N. In the early years of the 18th century Suez was little better
than a small fishing-village, galvanised now and then into commercial
life by the passage of caravans going to and fro between Asia and Egypt.
But in 1837, owing to the exertions of Lieutenant Waghorn, the route
through Egypt was adopted for the transit of the Indian mail, and a
few years after the P. & 0. Company began running a line of
steamers regularly between India and Suez. This was followed in
1857 by the completion of a railway from Cairo (since destroyed), and
Suez soon began to increase again in size and importance. It sufl‘ered,
however, from the want of fresh water until the completion (1863) of
the. Fresh-Water Canal to Suez brought an abundance of Nile water
to the town 5 and the various works in connection with the Suez Canal,
the new quays, the docks, etc., raised the population to 15,000. With
the completion of the canal, the activity of the town decreased, and
since the transfer of the mails to Ismailia, the place has been almost
deserted, and the fine quays and warehouses are unused, as steamers
now usually anchor in the Roads. There is a railway line to Ismailia.
The Old Town itself offers few points of interest. To the N. of
the town are the storehouses of the P. & 0. Company, the lock
which terminates the Fresh-Water Canal, the English Hospital, and,
on the heights above, is the chalet of the Khedive, from which there is
a magnificent View ; in the foreground is the town, the harbour, the
roadstead, and the mouth of the Suez Canal; to the right the range
of Gebel Attakah, a most striking and beautiful object, with its
black-violet heights hemming in the Red Sea; away to the left the


Introd. nxcunsron 'ro WELLS or mosns xxxi
rosy peaks of Mount Sinai ; and between the two, the deep blue of the
gulf.
The whole of the ground on which the quays and other constructions
stand has been recovered from the sea.
EXCURSION 'ro WELLS or MOSES—A pleasant excursion may be
made to the Wells or Fountains of M0565, Ayun Musa, or, as it
is more commonly called in the singular, Ain Musa. From a steamer
in the roadstead they look quite near. It will occupy, according to
the route taken and the time spent at the place, from half a day to a
day. The shortest way is to take a sailing-boat, or one of the small
steamers that ply between the town and the harbour, as far as the
jetty, which has been built out into the sea to communicate with the
new Quarantine lately established on the shore of the gulf for the
reception of the pilgrims on their return from Mecca. From this
point to Ain Musa the distance is not much over a mile ; if donkeys
are required between the jetty and the Wells, they must be sent from
Suez. The other plan is to cross over in a boat to the old Quarantine
jetty, about half a mile from the town, either taking donkeys in the
boat or sending them on previously, and then to cross the Suez Canal
by the ferry used for the passage of caravans between Arabia and
Egypt, and ride along the desert to the Wells. Or the boat may be
taken down to the entrance to the canal, and then up it a short
way to the usual starting-point for the Wells. Either of these routes
will take from three to four hours. The sums to be paid for boats
and donkeys had better be strictly agreed upon beforehand. There
are two so-called hotels at Ain Musa, where beds and refreshments
can be procured, but the visitor who intends spending the day
there had better, perhaps, take some food with him. This excursion
may be combined with a visit to the docks, the traveller landing there
on his return.
The “ Wells” are a sort of oasis, formed by a collection of springs,
surrounded with tamarisk bushes and palm trees. Since it has become,
as Dean Stanley calls it, “ the Richmond of Suez,”-—a regular picnicing
place for the inhabitants of that town,—some Arabs and Europeans
have regularly settled in it, and there are now a few houses, and
gardens with fruit trees and vegetables. The water from the springs
has a brackish taste. Most of them are simply holes dug in the soil,
which is here composed of earth, sand, and clay ; but one is built up
of massive masonry of great age. Though not mentioned in the Bible,
its position has always caused it to be associated with the passage of
the Red Sea by the Israelites, and tradition has fixed upon it as the
spot where Moses and Miriam and the Children of Israel sang their
song of triumph.
THE RED SEA—A fresh breeze from the N. generally prevails for


xxxii THE RED SEA I nd/ia
two-thirds of the voyage down the Red Sea, and is, during the winter
months, succeeded by an equally strong wind from the S. for the rest of
the way. During the summer, the wind from the N. blows through-
out the sea, but is light in the southern half, and the heat is great.
The Sinaitic range is the first remarkable land viewed to the E.,
but Sinai itself, 37 geographical m. distant, is hid by intervening moun-
tains of nearly equal height.
The Red Sea extends from the head of the Gulf of Suez to the
Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, about 1400 miles, and its greatest width is
about 200 miles. At Ras Mohammed it is split by the peninsula of
Sinai into two parts; one, the Gulf of Suez, about 150 m. long,
and from 10 to 18 wide, and the other, the Gulf of Akabah, about
100 m. long, and from 5 to 10 wide.
Wherever seen from the sea, the shores of the Red Sea present an
appearance of absolute sterility. A broad sandy plain slopes inappreci-
ably to the foot of the mountains, which are in most parts a considerable
distance inland. The ordinary mail-steamers track, however, lies down
the centre of the sea, and little more than the summits of the distant
bare and arid mountains will be seen.
The only port on the E. shore between Suez and the division of
the sea is Tor, two days’ journey from Sinai. The Khedivieh Company
run steamers, touching at one or two of the intermediate ports between
TOr and El Wedj. Opposite the end of the Sinai peninsula is J ebel
ez-Zeit, “the mountain of oil," close to the sea. At this point the
Egyptian government have lately expended large sums in searching
for the petroleum which there is reason to believe exists. Up to the
present, although a certain amount of oil has been found, it has not
been proved to exist in sufficiently large quantities to pay for the
money sunk. If leave can be obtained from the Public Works De-
partment, a visit to the site of the borings might be made. At E1-
Gimsheh, a headland, terminating the bay to the S.S.W. of it, are
some sulphur-mines, grottoes, and inscriptions in the Sinaitic character.
About 27 m. inland are the old porphyry quarries of J ebel ed-Dokhan,
“ mountain of smoke.” The road from Gimsheh past Jebel ed-
Dokhan may be followed to Keneh on the Nile. The distance is
about 140 miles.
The ruins of Myos Homes are on the coast in latitude 27° 24'.
The town is small, very regularly built, surrounded by a ditch,
and defended by round towers at the corners and the gateways.
The port mentioned by Strabo lies to the northward, and is nearly
filled with sand. Below the hills, to the eastward, is the Fons Tadmos,
mentioned by Pliny. Besides the ancient roads that lead from Myos
Hormos to the westward is another running N. and S., a short distance
from the coast, leading to Aboo Durrag and Suez on one side, and to
Suakin on the S.


Introd. KOSSEIR xxxiii
KOSSEIR.—At Old Kossier are the small town and port of Philotera,
of which little remains but mounds and the vestiges of houses, some of
ancient, others of Arab date. The modern town of Kosseir stands
on a small bay or cove, 4% In. to the southward. The population is
about 2000. This is a separate governorship. It was formerly a place
of some importance, but is now falling into decay. The water supply
is bad. There is a custom-house, but the trade is very limited, consist-
ing principally of dates from Arabia.
After passing Kosseir are the “several ports ” mentioned by Pliny,
with landmarks to direct small vessels through the dangerous coral-
reefs, whose abrupt discontinuance forms their mouth. These
corresponding openings are singular, and are due to the inability of
the coral animals to live where the fresh water of the winter torrents
runs into the sea, which is the case where these ports are found.
There are no remains of towns at any of them, except at Neches'ia
and the Leucos Portus ; the former now called Wadi en-Nukkari, the
latter known by the name of EBh-Shuna, or “the magazine.” N echesia
has the ruins of a temple, and a citadel of hewn stone ,~ but the Leucos
Portus is in a very dilapidated state; and the materials of which the
houses were built, like those of Berenice, are merely fragments of
madrepore and shapeless pieces of stone. About half-way between
them is another small port, 4 m. to the W. of which are the lead-mines
of Gabel er-Rosas; and a short distance to the northward, in Wadi
Abu-Raikeh, is a small quarry of basinite, worked by the ancients.
About 20 m. inland from the site of Nechesia are the old Neccia
quarries and emerald mines at J ebel Zobarah.
Behind the headland of Ras Benas, called Ras el-Unf, or Cape Nose,
by the Arab sailors, opposite Yembo on the Arabian coast, there is a
deep gulf, at the head of which stood the old town of Berenice. This
gulf, according to Strabo, was called Sinus Immundus. The long
peninsula or chersonesus, called Lepte Extrema, projecting from this
gulf, is mentioned by Diodorus, who says its neck was so narrow that
boats were sometimes carried across it from the gulf to the open sea.
From the end of the cape may be perceived the Peak of St. John, or
the Emerald Isle, Jeziret Zibirgeh, 0r Semergid, which seems to be
the ’O¢Lu':8ns, or serpentine island, of Diodorus. The inner bay,
which constituted the ancient port of Berenice, is now nearly filled
with sand ; and at low tide its mouth is closed by a bank, which is
then left entirely exposed. The tide rises and falls in it about one
foot.
The town of Berenice was founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and
so called after his mother. There is a temple at the end of a street,
towards the centre of the town, built of hewn stone, and consisting of
three inner and the same number of outer chambers, with a staircase
leading to the summit, the whole ornamented with sculptures and


xxxiv SUAKIN—JIDDAH I with
hieroglyphics in relief. It was dedicated to Serapis ; and in the
hieroglyphics are the names of Tiberius and Trajan.
Between Res Benas and Has Elba are a number of small harbours
which are much used by Arab traders to convey provisions to the
Bishareen tribes, and to bring slaves back to Yembo and J iddah.
Since the trade with the Soudan has been stopped in consequence of
the rebellion, a good deal of the commerce which used to pass through
Suakin now goes to these small harbours, the custom duties being thus
lost to the Egyptian Government. South of Ras Elba is Rae Roway,
a long, low promontory. Here is an Egyptian station dependent upon
Suakin. At Roway are some very extensive salt-fields, from which a.
considerable amount of salt is exported annually, principally to India.
SUAKIN is the most important town on the W. side of the Red Sea.
It is still Egyptian, and is the only territory left to the Khedive of
the vast Soudan provinces over which he ruled some years ago. Suakin
was the scene of the two English expeditions of 1884, 1885, neither
of which led to any result. It was formerly a favourite starting-point
for shooting expeditions to the Soudan. The principal tribes in the
vicinity of Suakin are the Hadendowa and Amarar.
After leaving Suez the lighthouses seen are Zafarana and Ras
Gharib, both on the W. coast before Tor is reached. Then follows the
light on Ashrafi, just inside the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, and that
on Shadwar, just south of it. The light on The Brothers is nearly due
E. of Kosseir. The Daedalus Reef, small and dangerous, lies in mid-
channel in latitude 25°, and was a terror to navigators before the light was
erected. And lastly, the light on Perim Island in the Bab-el-Mandeb.
The most important ports of Arabia on the Red Sea are Yenbo, lat.
24° N., the port of Medina, 130 m. to the E. The town is sur-
rounded by a wall 12 ft. high and is a mean place, but the harbour
is one of the best on the coast.
J IDDAH, in latitude 21213 N., is an important place ; the seaport of
Mecca, which is 60 m. E. The population, including surrounding
villages, is about 40,000. English and other steamers call here
frequently. The anchorage is 3% m. from the shore. The town is
square in shape, enclosed by a wall with towers at intervals, and on the
sea-face two forts. There is a good street parallel to the sea The
other streets are irregular and not so clean. The town, for this
part of the world, is well kept, but the suburbs are very poor. The
population is most fanatical, and Europeans landing must behave in all
respects cautiously. Supplies are abundant, but it is the custom to
ask strangers exorbitant prices. There are three entrances to the town .
on the sea side, but the central one at the jetty is the only one in
ordinary use. The gate on the S. side of the town is seldom opened,
that on the N. is free to all, but the E. or Mecca gate, which formerly


Introd. HODEIDA xxxv
was strictly reserved for Mohammedans, should be approached with
caution, though Europeans are now generally permitted to use it.
The only sight of the town is the so-called Tomb of Eve. This is a
small mosque in the centre of two long low walls 140 ft. in length,
which are supposed to enclose the grave of our gigantic ancestress.
It is regarded with considerable veneration, and lies north of the town.
The antiquity of the tradition is unknown. Jiddah was bombarded
by the British in 1858 in retribution for a massacre of the consul and
other British subjects by the population.
HODEIDA, lat. 14° 40' N., has a population of about 33,000. The
anchorage here also is about 3% m. from the shore. European
steamers call weekly or oftener. Mocha, which this place has sup-
planted as a commercial port, is 100 m. S. Hodeida has well-built
houses and an amply-supplied market. It looks well from having
mosques with fine domes and minarets.
The Italians and French have settlements on the African shore in
the S. part of the Red Sea, at Asab and Obokh, but passenger
steamers to India do not approach these places.
The Island of Perim occupies the narrowest part of the Strait of
Bab-el-Mandeb (“the gate of tears”). It is distant 1% m. from the Arabian
coast, and 9 to 10 m. from the African. The average width is I} m.,
the greatest length 3% In. Captain F. M. Hunter has given the most
complete description of the island in his Statistical Account of Aden.
Perim is called by the author of The Periplus the island of Diodorus,
and is known amongst the Arabs as Mayun. The formation is purely
volcanic and consists of long 10w hills surrounding a. capacious harbour
about 1% m. long, %m. in breadth, with a depth of from 4 to 6
fathoms in the best anchorages. The highest point of the island is
245 ft. above sea-level. All endeavours to find water have failed, and
but little is procurable from the mainland near. There are water
tanks that used to be supplied from Aden, but a condensing apparatus
is found the most convenient means of supply. The British are the
only nation who have ever permanently occupied Perim. Albuquerque
landed upon it in 1513, and erected a high cross on an eminence, and
called it the island of Vera Cruz, by which name it is shown on old
Admiralty charts. Afterwards it was occupied by pirates who in vain
dug for water. In 1799 the East India Company took possession of
it, and sent a force from Bombay to hold it, to prevent the French then
in Egypt from passing on to India, where it was feared they would effect
a junction with Tipu Sahib. The lighthouse on the highest point
was completed in 1861, and since then two others have been built on
the shore.
There is always an officer’s guard from the garrison at Aden. They
occupy a small block house for the protection of the lighthouse and
scaling stations. Steamers usually pass to the E. of the island near the


xxxvi ADEN India
Government boat harbour. The western side of the large inner
harbour has been assigned to a coal company, who have erected some
buildings, and have a hulk for coaling vessels.
Throughout the Red Sea enormous coral reefs run along the coasts
in broken lines parallel to the shores, but not connected with them.
They usually rise out of deep water to within a few feet of the surface.
A navigable channel from 2 to 3 m. wide extends between them and
the E. coast, and a narrower one on the W. coast. The whole sea is in
course of upheaval. The former seaport of Adulis, in Annesley Bay, near
Massowa, is now 4 m. inland.
The tides are very uncertain. At Suez, where they are most regular,
they rise from 7 ft. at spring to 4 ft. at neap tides. '
During the hottest months, July to September, the prevalence of
northerly winds drives the water out of the Red Sea. The S.W.
monsoon is then blowing in the Indian Ocean, and the general level
of the Red Sea is from 2 to 3 ft. lower than during the cooler months,
when the NE. monsoon forces water into the Gulf of Aden and thence
through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb.
ADEN was taken from the Arabs by the British on the 16th
of January 1839 (see the Aden Handbook, by Captain F. M. Hunter).
It was attacked by the Abdalis and Fadthelis on the 11th of November
in that year, but they were repulsed with the loss of 200 killed and
wounded. The united Arab tribes made a second attack on the 22d
of May 1840, but failed after losing many men. On the 5th of July
1840 a third attack took place, but the assailants, Abdals and Fad-
thelis, were driven back and lost 300 men. In January 1846 Saiyad
Ismail, after preaching a jihad, or religious war, in Mecca, attacked this
place, and was easily repulsed. A series of murders then commenced.
On the 29th of May 1850 a seaman and a boy of H. E. I. C. steam-
frigate Auckland were killed while picking up shells on the N. shore
of the harbour. On the 28th of February 1851 Captain Milne, com-
missariat officer, and a party of officers, went to Wahat, in the Lahej
territory. At midnight a fanatic mortally wounded Captain Milne,
who died next day, severely wounded Lieutenant M‘Pherson, of the
78th Highlanders, slightly wounded Mr. Saulez, and got clear away.
On the 27th March following, another fanatic attacked and wounded
severely Lieutenant Delisser 0f the 78th Highlanders, but was killed
by that oflicer with his own weapon. On the 12th of July in the same
year, the mate and one sailor of the ship Sons of Commerce, wrecked
near Ghubet Sailan, were murdered. In 1858, ’Ali bin Muhsin,
Sultan of the Abdalis, gave so much trouble that Brigadier Coghlan,
Commandant at Aden, was compelled to march against him, when the
Arabs were routed with a loss of from 30 to 40 men, and with no
casualties on our side. In December 1865, the Sultan of the Fadtheli


Introd. ADEN xxxvii
tribe, which has a seaboard of 100 m., extending from the boundary
of the Abdalas, attempted to blockade Aden on the land side; but
was utterly routed by Lieut.-Col. Woolcombe, O.B., at Bir Said, 15
m. from the Barrier Gate. A force under Brigadier-General Raines,
0.13., then marched through the Abgar districts, which are the low-
lands of this tribe, and destroyed several fortified villages. Subse-
quently, in January 1866, an expedition went from Aden by sea to
Shugrah, the chief port of the Fadthelis, 65 m. from Aden, and de-
stroyed the forts there. Since 1867 this tribe, which numbers 6700
fighting men, have adhered to their engagements. The Sultan of the
Abdalis, who inhabit a district 33 m. long and 8 broad to the N.N.W.
of Aden, and number about 8000 souls, was present in Bombay during
the Duke of Edinburgh’s visit in February 1870, and is friendly. His
territory is called Lahej, and the capital is Al-Hautah, 21 m. from the
Barrier Gate. No one should attempt to go beyond the Barrier Gate
without permission of the authorities.
N0 boat can ply for hire in Aden Harbour without a licence
from the Conservator of the Port, and the number of the licence must
be painted on the bow and stern. Each of the crew must wear the
number of his boat on his left breast. When asking payment the crew
must exhibit the tables of fares and rules, and any one of the crew
asking prepayment of the fare is liable to fine or imprisonment. In
case of dispute, recourse must be had to the nearestEuropean police officer.
Any hirer by special agreement may engage a first-class boat for him-
self only, or for himself and 5 friends, by paying 4 fares, and a second-
class boat for himself, or himself and 3 friends, by paying 3 fares.
Every boat must have a. lantern at night. A boat inspector attends at
the Gun Wharf from 6 A.M. to 11 RM. to call boats, suppress irregu-
larities, and give information to passengers. Aftersunset passengers can
he landed only at the Gun Wharf.
Land Conveyances
Every conveyance must have the number of its licence and the
number of persons it can carry painted on it. A table of fares must
be fixed on some conspicuous part of the conveyance, and the driver
must wear a badge with the number of his licence, and must not
demand prepayment of his fare. From Isthmus to the Point the fare
is the same as from Town to Point. The Point signifies any inhabited
part of Steamer Point, the name given to the part of the peninsula off
which the steamers lie.
Inside the Light Ship the water shallows to 4 fathoms, and a large
steamer stirs up the mud with the keel. As soon as the vessel stops,
scores of little boats with one or two Somali boys in each paddle off
and surround the steamer, shouting “Overboard, overboard,” and
“Have a dive, have a dive,” also “Good boy, good boy,” all together,


xxxviii ADEN India
with a very strong accent on the first syllable. The cadence is not
unpleasing. If a small coin is flung to them they all spring into the
water, and nothing is seen but scores of heels disappearing under the
surface as they dive for the money. It is astonishing that no accident
happens, for sharks are numerous, and other fish are almost as raven-
ous. In 1877 a rock cod between 5 and 6 ft. long seized a man who
was diving and tore off the flesh of his thigh. The man’s brother
went down with a knife and killed the cod, which was brought ashore
and photographed at Aden, as was the wounded man.
As soon as the captain has fixed the hour at which he will leave
the port, a notice is posted, and then passengers generally start for the
shore to escape the dust and heat during coaling. All the ports are
closed, and the heat and closeness of the cabins will be found quite in-
supportable. It takes from twelve to twenty minutes to land at the
Post Office Pier, which is broad and sheltered. The band occasionally
plays there. To the left, after a walk or drive of a mile, one arrives
at the hotels. There is also a large shop for wares of all kinds kept
by a Parsi. At a short distance N. of the hotels is a condenser belong-
ing to a private proprietor. There are three such condensers belonging
to Government, and several the property of private companies, and by
these and an aqueduct from Shekh Uthman, 7 m. beyond the Barrier
Gate, Aden is supplied with water. Condensed water costs from about
2 rs. per 100 gallons. Besides these there are tanks, which are
worth a visit. The distance to them from the pier is about 5 m.
Altogether there are about fifty tanks in Aden, which, if entirely
cleared out, would have an aggregate capacity of nearly 30,000,000
imperial gallons. It is supposed that they were commenced about the
second Persian invasion of Yaman in 600 A.D. Mr. Salt, who saw
them in 1809, says, “ The most remarkable of these reservoirs consists
of a line of cisterns situated on the N.W. side of the town, three of
which are fully 80 ft. wide and proportionally deep, all excavated
out of the solid rock, and lined with a thick coat of fine stucco. A
broad aqueduct may still be traced which formerly conducted the
water to these cisterns from a deep ravine in the mountain above;
higher up is another still entire, which at the time we visited it was
partly filled with water.” In 1856 the restoration of these magnifi-
cent works was undertaken (see the Aden Handbook, by Captain F. M.
Hunter). And thirteen have been completed, capable of holding
8,000,000 gallons of water. The range of hills which was the crater
of Aden is nearly circular. On the W. side the hills are precipitous,
and the rain that descends from them rushes speedily to the sea. On
the E. side the descent is broken by a tableland winding between the
summit and the sea, which occupies a quarter of the entire superficies
of Aden. The ravines which intersect this plateau converge into one
valley, and a very moderate fall of rain suffices to send a considerable


Introd. THE PEOPLE or INDIA—MOHAMMEDANS xxxix
torrent down it. This water is partly retained in the tanks which were
made to receive it, and which are so constructed, that the overflow of
the upper tank fallsjnto a lower, and so on in succession. As the annual
rainfall at Aden did not exceed 6 or 7 in., Malik a1 Mansur, King of
Yaman, at the close of the 15th century, built an aqueduct to bring the
water of the Bir Hamid into Aden (see Playfair’s History of Yaman).
Aden is hot, but healthy. Snakes and scorpions are rather numerous.
After leaving Aden the only land usually approached by steamers
bound for India is the Island of Soootra, which is about 150 In.
E. of Cape Guardafui, the E. point of the African continent. The
island is 71 m. long, and 22 broad. Most of the surface is a tableland
about 800 ft. above sea-level The capital is Tamarida or Hadibu, on
the N. coast. The population is only 4000, or 4 to the square mile.
It is politically a British possession subordinate to Aden, but adminis-
tered in its internal affairs by its own chiefs.
THE PEOPLE OF INDIA
THE Monsmnnnans
Ema—The Mohammedan era of the Hijrah, “departure,” is used
in all inscriptions. It is necessary to give a brief account of it here. It
takes its name from the “departure” of Mohammed from Mecca to
Medina on Friday the 16th of July 622 A.D. This date was ordered
by the Khalifah Umar to be used as their era by Mohammedans.
Their year consists of twelve lunar months, as follows :—
Muharram . . . 30 days. Rajah . . . . 30 days.
Safar . . . . 29 ,, Sh’aban . . . . 29 ,,
Rabin 'l avval . . 30 ,, Ramazan . . . 30 ,,
Rabiu ’s-sani or ’1 akhir. 29 ,, Shawwal . . . 29 ,,
J aumda 'l avval . . 30 ,, Zi’l k’adah or Zik’adah . 30 ,,
Jumada ’s-sani or '1 akhir 29 ,, Zi'l hijjah or Zi hijjah . 29 ,,
= 354 days.
Their year, therefore, is 11 days short of the solar year, and their
New Year’s Day is every year 1 1 days earlier than in the preceding year.
In every 30 years the month Zi hijjah is made to consist 11 times of
30 days instead of 29, which accounts for the 9 hours in the lunar
year, which=354 days, 9 hours. To bring the Hijrah year into ac-
cordance with the Christian year, express the former in years and
decimals of a year, and multiply by '970225, add 621'54, and the
total will correspond exactly to the Christian year. Or to effect the
same correspondence roughly, deduct 3 per cent from the Hijrah year,
add 621'54, and the result will be the period of the Christian year
when the Mohammedan year begins. All trouble, however, of com-
parison is saved by Dr. Ferdinand Wiistenfeld’s Comparative Tables,
Leipzig, 1854.


xl nonsmmnnsn FESTIVALS India
The Tcrt'kh Ilahi, or Era of Akbar, and the Fasl'i or Harvest Em.
These eras begin from the commencement of Akbar’s reign on
Friday the 5th of Rabiu’s-sani, 963 A.H.=19th of February 1556.
To make them correspond with the Christian, 593 must be added to
the latter.
ll/[OHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS
Bakam' ’Id or ’Idri-Kurban, held on the 10th of Zi’l hijjah in
memory of Abraham’s, offering Ism’ail or Ishmael. See Sale’s Koran
p. 337. This festival is also called ’Idu Zuha, when camels, cows,
sheep, goats, kids, or lambs, are sacrificed.
Muharram, a fast in remembrance of the death of Hasan and
Husain, the sons of ’Ali, and Fatimah the daughter of Mohammed.
Hasan was poisoned by Yezid in 49 A.H., and Husain was murdered at
Karbala on the 10th of Muharram, 61 A.H. =9th October 680 A.D..
The fast begins on the 1st of Muharram and lasts 10 days. Moslems
of the Shi’ah persuasion assemble in the T’aziyah Khana, house of
mourning. On the night of the 7th an image of Burak, the animal
(vehicle) on which Mohammed ascended to heaven, is carried in proces-
sion, and on the 10th a Tabut or bier. The Tabuts are thrown into
the sea, or other water, and in the absence of water are buried in the
earth. The mourners move in a circle, beating their breasts with cries
of “Alas ! Hasan. Alas ! Husain.” At this time the fanatical spirit
is at its height, and serious disturbances often take place (see Hobson
J obson in Yule’s Glossary of Anglo-Indian Term).
Akht'rt Ghahar Shambah, held on the last Wednesday of Safar, when
Mohammed recovered a little in his last illness and bathed for the last
time. It is proper to write out seven blessings, wash off the ink and
drink it, as also to bathe and repeat prayers.
Bari W afat, held on the 13th of Rabi’u ’l avval in memory of Mo-
hammed’s death, 11 A.H.
Pt'r-t-Dastgtr, held on the 10th of Rabi’u ’l akhir in honour of
Saiyad ’Abdu’l Kadir Gilani, called Pir Piran or Saint of Saints, who
taught and died at Baghdad. During epidemics a green flag is carried
in his name. 1
Uhi-raghan-t-Zt'ndah Shah Madar, held on the 17th of Jaumada ’l
avval in honour of a saint who lived at Makkhanpur, and who is
thought to be still alive, whence he is called Zindah, “living.”
Urs-i-Kadt'r Walt, held on the 11th of J umada ’l akhir, in honour
of Khwajah Mu’inu-din Chisti, who was buried at Ajmere in 628
A.H.
Muraj-i-Muhammad, held on the 25th of Rajab, when the Prophet
ascended to heaven.
Shab-i-barat, night of record, held on the 16th of Sh’aban, when


Introd. MOGUL nnrnaoas or Hmnu'sran xli
they say men’s actions for next year are recorded. The Koran ought
to be read all night, and the next day a fast should be observed.
Ramazan, the month long fast of the Mohammedans. The night
of the 27th is called Lailatu ’l-Kadr, “night of power,” because the
Koran came down from heaven on that night.
’Idu ’l-fitr, the festival when the fast of the Ramazan is broken.
The evening is spent in rejoicing and in exhibitions of the Nautch girls.
Chiraghan-i-Bandah Nawaz, held on the 16th of Zi’l k’adah in
honour of a saint of the Chisti family, who is buried at Kalbarga and
is also called Gisu Daraz, “long ringlets.”
- Mooun Enraaons or HINDUSTAN
Babar, Zahiru-din Muhammad (mounted the throne on A.H. AD
June 9th) . . . . . . . . . 899 1494
Humayun, Nasiru-din Muhammad; in 946 defeated by
Shir Shah . . . . . . . . . 937 1531
Humayun, Nasiru-din Muhammad, founded the Mogul
Dynasty of Dihli . . . . . . . . 962 1554
Akbar, Abu’l fath, Jalalu-din Muhammad consolidated
Empire . . . . . . . . . 963 1556
Jehangir, Abu’l Muzafl'ar Nuru-din Muhammad 7th
October, 1014 1605
Shah Jehan, Shahabu-diu Ghazi . . 9th February, 1037 1628
Aurangzib ’Alamgir, Abu'l Muzaffar, Muhaiyiu-din 24th
February 1068 1658
'Azim Shah, Muhammad Shahid . . . 3d March, 1118 1707
Bahadur Shah, Shah ’Alam, Ahul Muzafi'ar Kutbu-din
23d February, 1118 1707
J ahandar Shah, Mu ’izzu-din . . . 11th January, 1124 1713
Farrukhsiyar, Muhammad . . . 1 1th January, 1 124 1 713
Raf'iu-darjat, Shamsu din . . . 18th January, 1131 1719
Rafiu-daulat, Shahj ehan Sani . . 26th April, 1131 1719
Muhammad Nikosiyar . . . . . May, 1131 1719
Muhammad Shah, Abu’l fath Nasiru-din 28th August, 1131 1719
Sultan Muhammad Ibrahim . . . 4th October, 1132 1720
Ahmad Shah, Abu'l Nasir . . . 20th April, 1161 1744
’Alamgir II., ’Azizu-din Muhammad . . 2d June, 1167 1749
Shahjehan . . . . . 29th November, 1173 1759
Shah ’Alam, Jalalu-din (Mirza 'Abdu’llah, 'Ali Gohar) 1173 1759
Muhammad Bedar bakht . . . . . . . 1201 1786
Akbar IL, Abu’l Nasir, Mun’aim-din Muhammad . 3d
December, 1221 1806


THE Hnmus
The Kali- Yug, or Hindu Em
According to the Hindus, the world is now in its 4th Yug, or Age,
the Kali-Yug, which commenced from the equinox in March 3102
3.0., and will last 432,000 years. The 3 preceding ages were the
Satya, the Treta, and the Dwapara. The Satya, or Age of Truth,
lasted 1,728,000 years; the Treta (from tra, “to preserve”) lasted


xlii THE muons India.
1,296,000; and the Dwapara (from dwa, “two,” and par, “ after ”)
864,000 years.
The Era of Vikmnwd'itya, or Sa/mwat
This era commenced from the 1st year of King Vikramaditya, who
began to reign at Ujjain 57 13.0. To convert Samwat years into
Christian deduct 57._ But if the Samwat year be less than 58, deduct
its number from 58, and the remainder will be the year 13.0.
The Shaka Em, 0r Em of Shal'ivahana
Shalivahana, “borne on a tree,” from Shali, the Slmea robusta, and
vahmw, “vehicle,” was a king who reigned in the S. of India, and
whose capital was Pratishthanah. He is said to have been the enemy
of Vikramaditya, and is identified by Wilford with Christ. The
Shaka dates from the birth of Shalivahana on the 1st of Vaisakh,
3179 of the Kali-Yug=Monday, 14th of March 78 AD. To make
the dates of this era correspond with the Christian add 78.
Era of Parashumma
This is the era which, according to Colonel Warren’s work, the
Kala Sankalita, “Arrangement of Time,” is used in Malayala, that
is, in the provinces of Malabar and Travancore down to Cape Comorin.
It is named from a king who reigned 1176 years 13.0., or in 1925 of
the Kali-Yug, The year is sidereal, and commences when the sun
enters Virgo in the solar month Ashwin. The era is reckoned in
cycles of 1000 years, and the 977th year of the 3d cycle began 14th
of September 1800 A.D.
The Hindu year has 6 seasons or m'tus : Vasanta, “spring,” grish'ma,
“the hot season,” varsha, “the rains,” sha'rada, “the autumn ” (from
shri “to injure ”), hemanta, “the winter,” shishira, “ the cool season."
Table of the Seasons and Months in Sansc'rit, Hindi, and English







NAMES or MONTHS.
Sanscnrr. HINDI. } Exemsn.
1- $§?;fiitha. $23311. fill?
2- GRISHMA - 115232315; 122%. 5111‘;
3- VARSHA- - lszi'i‘ltl‘?‘ $11335. $51131)".
4~ SHARA“ - $33111?“ ilizitlik. g‘ifi’l’filhr.
5' HEMANTA ‘ {Margasirshm Aghan. December.
Paasha. Pus. January. 2
6' SHISHIRA ' l’alizki-llgina. glifélin. fishblhilly-


Introd. HINDU FESTIVALS xliii
HINDU Fnsrrvsns
Makar Sankranti.—On the 1st of the month Magh the sun enters
the sign Caprich or Makar. From this day till the arrival of the
sun at the N. point of the zodiac the period is called Uttarayana, and
from that time till he returns to Maker is Dakshinayana, the former
period being lucky and the latter unlucky. At the festival of Makar
Sankranti the Hindus bathe, accompanied by a Brahman, and rub
themselves with sesamum oil. They also invite Brahmans and give
them pots full of sesamum seed and other things. They wear new
clothes with ornaments, and distribute sesamum seed mixed with
sugar.
Vacant Pancham'i is on the 5th day of the light half of Magh, and
is a festival in honour of Spring, which is personified under the name
of Vasanta or Spring.
Rathsaptami.—From Ratha, a car, and Saptami, seventh, when a
new sun mounts his chariot.
Shivarat, the night of Shiva, when Shiva. is worshipped with flowers
during the whole night.
Holt—A festival in honour of Krishna, held fifteen days before the
moon is at its full, in the month Phalgun, celebrated with swinging
and squirting red powder over every one. All sorts of licence are
indulged in.
Gudhi Podaoa, on the 1st of Chaitra. The leaves of the Melia
Azadt'rachta are eaten. On this day the New Year commences, and
the Almanac for that year is worshipped.
Ramanavami, held on the 9th of Chaitra, in honour of Ramachan-
dra, who was born on this day at Ayodhya. A small image of Rama
is put into a cradle and worshipped, and red powder called gulal is
thrown about.
Vada Samltri, held on the 15th of J yeshth, when women worship
the Indian fig tree.
Ashadhi Ekadashi, the 11th of the month Ashadh, sacred to Vishnu,
when that deity reposes for 4 months.
Nag Panchamt', held on the 5th of Shravan, when the serpent Kali
is said to have been killed by Krishna. Ceremonies are performed to
avert the bite of snakes.
Narali P'umima, held on the 15th of Shravan. The stormy season
is then considered over, and offerings of cocoa-nuts are thrown into the
sea on the west coast.
Gokul Ashtami, held on the 8th of the dark half of Shravan, when
Krishna is said to have been born at Gokul. Rice may not be eaten on this
day, but fruits and other grains. At night Hindus bathe and worship
an image of Krishna, adorning it with the Oc'ymum sanctum. The
chief votary of the temple of Kanhoba dances in an ecstatic fashion, and


xliv HINDU FESTIVALS India
is worshipped and receives large presents. He afterwards scourges the
spectators.
Pitn' Amvasya, held on the 30th of Shravan, when Hindus go
to Valkeshwar in Bombay and bathe in the tank called the Banganga,
which is said to have been produced by Rama, who pierced the
ground with. an arrow and brought up the water. Shraddas or cere-
monies in honour of departed ancestors are performed on the side of
the tank.
Ganesh Chaturthi, held on the 4th of Bhadrapad, in honour of
Ganesh, a clay image of whom is worshipped and Brahmans are
entertained. The Hindus are prohibited from looking at the moon
on this day, and if by accident they should see it, they get
themselves abused by their neighbours in the hope that this will
remove the curse.
Risht' Panchami, held on the day following Ganesh Chaturthi, in
honour of the 7 Rishis.
Gauri Vahan, held on the 7th of Bhadrapad, in honour of Shiva’s
wife, called Gauri or the Fair. Cakes in the shape of pebbles are eaten
by women.
Waman Dwadashi, on the 12th of Bhadrapad, in honour of the 5th
incarnation of Vishnu, who assumed the shape of a dwarf to destroy
Bali.
Ammt Chaturdashi, held on the 14th of Bhadrapad, in honour of
Ananta, the endless serpent.
Pitrt' Paksh, held on the last day of Bhadrapad, in honour of the
Pitras or Ancestors, when offerings of fire and water are made to them.
Dasam, held on the 10th of Ashwin, in honour of Durga, who on
this day slew the buffalo-headed demon Maheshasur. On this day
Rama marched against Ravana, and for this reason the Marathas chose
it for their expeditions. Branches of the Butea fnmdosa, are offered at
the temples. This is an auspicious day for sending children to school.
The 9 preceding days are called Navaratra, when Brahmans are paid to
recite hymns to Durga.
Diwali, “feast of lamps,” from diwa, “a lamp,” and (iii, “a row,”
held on the new moon of Kartik, in honour of Kali or Bhawani, and
more particularly of Lakshmi, when merchants and bankers count their
wealth and worship it. It is said that Vishnu killed a giant on that
day, and the women went to meet him with lighted lamps. In
memory of this lighted lamps are set afloat in rivers and in the sea,
and auguries are drawn from them according as they shine on or are
extinguished.
Bali Pratipada is held on the 1st day of Kartik, when Hindus fill
a basket with rubbish, put a lighted lamp on it, and throw it away
outside the house, saying, “ Let troubles go and the kingdom of Bali
come.”


Introd. HINDU AND BUDDHIST DATES—THE PARSIS xlv
Kartik Ekadashi, held on the 11th of Kartik, in honour of Vishnu,
who is said then to rise from a slumber of 4 months.
Kartik Pumima, held on. the full moon of Kartik, in honour of
Shiva, who destroyed on that day the demon Tripurasura.
SOME EARLY HINDU and BUDDHIST DATES.
3.0.
Arrangements of first nine Books of the Rig Veda . . (about) 1400
Composition of parts of the tenth Book . - - (about) 1100
} Veda . . . . . . (about) 1000—802
Sutras Vaidik, comprising laws . . . . . 1000
Sutras 0f Philosophical system . . . . (about) 1200—800
Atharva Veda . . . . . . . 800
Sakya Muni, birth . . . . . . . 638
Death and Era . . . . . . . 543
First Buddhist Convocation at Rajagriha . . . . 543
Voyage of Skylax down the Indus by order of Dareius Hystaspes . 490
Second Buddhist Convocation at Vesali . . . 443
Alexander crossed the Indus, April . . . . . 327
Chandragupta or Sandrakottus . . . . . 315
Mission of Megasthenes to the Court of Sankradottus . . 302
Ramayana . . . . . . . 300
Asoka . . . . . . . . 270
Third Buddhist Convocation . . . . . 249
Mahabharata . . . . . . . 240
Laws of Menu . . . . . . . 200
Menander . . . . . . . . 126
Ceylon Buddhistical Books . . . . . . 104—76
Era of Vikramaditya and of the Shakuntala . . . 57
A.D.
Cave Temples at Salsette . . . . . . 50—100
Era of Shalivahan . . . . . - 78
Sah dynasty of Guzerat . . . . . . 100
Travels of Fa. Hicm . . . . . . . 399
Mahawanso . . . . . . . . 459—477
Travels of Hiouen Thsang . . . . . . 629—645
Puranas . . . . . . . 800—1400
THE PARSIS
The Parsis, formerly inhabitants of Persia, are the modern followers
of Zoroaster, and now form a numerous and influential portion of the
population of Surat and Bombay.
When the Empire of the Sassanides was destroyed by the Saracens,
about 650 A.D., the Zoroastrians were persecuted, and some of them
fled to Hindustan, where the Rajah of Guzerat was their principal
protector. They suffered considerably from the persecution of Moham-
medans until the time of the British occupation. Their worship, in
the course of time, became corrupted by Hindu practices, and the
reverence for fire and the sun, as emblems of the glory of Ormuzd,
degenerated into idolatrous practices. The sacred fire, which Zoroaster
[India] 01


xlvi PARSI MONTHS—FESTIVALS India.
was said to have brought from heaven, is kept burning in consecrated
spots, and temples are built over subterranean fires. Priests tend the
fires on the altars, chanting hymns and burning incense. A partially
successful attempt was made in 1852 to restore the creed of Zoroaster
to its original purity. In order not to pollute the elements, which
they adore, they neither burn nor bury their dead, but expose their
corpses to be devoured by carnivorous birds (see Towers of Silence,
Bombay). There is now a marked desire on the part of the Parsis to
adapt themselves to the manners and customs of Europeans. The
public and private schools of Bombay are largely attended by their
children, and every effort is made to procure the translation of English
works. Many follow commercial pursuits, and several of the wealthiest
merchants of India belong to the sect.
PARSI Mourns
There are 12 months, of 30 days each, and 5 days are added at
the end. They approximate as below to the English months.
1. Farvardin, September. 7. Mihr, March.
2. Ardibihisht, October. I 8. Aban, April.
3. Khurdad, November. 9. Adar, May.
4. Tir, December. 10. Deh, June.
5. Amardad, January. 11. Bahman, July.
6. Sharivar, February. 12. Asfandiyar, August.
THE Pans: FESTIVALS
Patati, New Year’s Day. The 1st of Farvardin. The Parsis rise
earlier than usual, put on new clothes, and pray at the Fire Temples.
They then visit friends and join hands, distribute alms and give
clothes to servants and others. This day is celebrated in honour of
the accession of Yezdajird to the throne of Persia, 632 A.D.
Farcardz'n-Jasan, on the 19th of Farvardin, on which ceremonies
are performed in honour of the dead called Frohars or “protectors.”
There are 11 other Jasans in honour of various angels.
Khurdad-sal, the birthday of Zoroaster, who is said to have been
born 1200 13.0. at the city of Rai or Rhages near Teheran.
Jamsh'idi Nam-oz, held on the 21st of March. It dates from the
time of Jamshid, and the Parsis ought to commence their New Year
from it.
Zartashte Disc, held on the 11th of Deh in remembrance of the
death of Zartasht or Zoroaster. '
Muktad, held on the last ten days of the Zoroastrian year, in-
cluding the last five days of the last month, and the five intercalary
days called the Gatha Gaha'mba'rs. A clean place in the house is adorned
with fruits and flowers, and silver or brass vessels filled with water are
placed there. Ceremonies are performed in honour of the souls of the
dead.


Introd. THE SIKHS xlvii
THE SIKHS
It remains to add a few words about the followers of this com-
paratively new religion.
In the middle of the 16th century the Sikhs, who had been
gradually rising into power, struggled with the Afghans for supremacy
in the Panjab. On the 7th invasion of Ahmad Shah, in 1764, they
fought a long and doubtful battle with Ahmad Shah’s troops in the
vicinity of Amritsar. They then captured Lahore, destroyed many
mosques, and made their Afghan prisoners, in chains, wash the founda-
tions with the blood of swine.
From this period, 1764, the Sikhs became the ruling power in the
Panjab. The following is a chronological table of their Gurus, or
leaders :—
Gunus on THE Sums
A n ‘
1. Nanak, founder of the Sikh sect, born 1469, died . . . . 1539
2. Guru Angad, wrote the sacred books, died . . . . . 1552
3. Amara das, Khshatri . . . . . . . . . 1552
4. Ram das, beautified Amritsar . . . . . . . 1574
5. Arjun Mal, compiled the Adi Gmnth . . . . . . 1581
6. Har Govind, first warlike leader . . . . . . . 1606
7. Hat Rae, his grandson . . . . . . . . . 1644
8. Her Krishna, died at Delhi . . . . . . . . 1661
9. Tegh Bahadur, put to death by Aurangzib . . . . . 1664
10. Guru Govind remodelled the Sikh Government . . . . 1675
11. Bands, last of the succession of Gurus . . . . . . 1708
12. Charat Sing, of Sukalpaka misl died . . . . . . 17 74
13. Maha Sing, his son, extended his rule . . . . . . 1774
14. Ranjit Sing, born 1780, began to reign . . . . . . 1805
The Sikhs were now formed into confederacies called Misls, each
under a Sirdar, or chief. These were—-
. Bhangi, called from their fondness for bhang, extract of hemp.
. Nishani, standard-hearers.
. Shahid or Nihan , martyrs and zealots.
. Ramgarhi, from mgarh, at Amritsar.
. Nakeia, from a country so called.
. Alhuwali, from the village in which Jassa. lived.
. Ghaneia or Khaneia.
. Faizulapuri or Singhpuri.
. Sukarchak'ia.
10. Dalahwala.
11. Krora Singhia or Panjgarhia.
12. Phulkia.
All the other Misls were, about the year 1823, subdued by Ranjit
Sing of the Sukarchakia, and for a long time Ranjit was the most
prominent personage in India-'—
@mqovuubww'i


xlviii REMARKABLE EVENTS TO END or 18TH CENTURY India.

—“1In
REMARKABLE EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA wrrn EUROPE TO THE
END or THE 18TH CENTURY
DATES
Odoricus, an Italian Friar, visits Tanna . . . . . . 1300
Vasco da Gama reaches Calicut b sea . . . . . . 1498
Albuquerque, the Portuguese miral, burns Calicut, but is at last
driven off . . . . . . . . . . . 1510
Goa captured by the Portuguese; retaken by the natives; ceded to
the Portuguese . . . . . . . . . . 1510
The Zamorin permits the Portuguese to build a fort at Calicut . . 1513
Bombay occupied by the Portuguese . . . . . . . 1532
Bassein, Salsette, and Bombay ceded to the Portuguese by Sultan Baha-
dur, King of Guzerat . 1534
The Venetian merchant, Caesar Frederick, reaches Ahmedabad . . 1563
Thomas Stephens, of New College, Oxford, reaches Goa in October, and
Sir Frances Drake lands at Ternate, and subsequently at Java. . 1579
A land expedition, organised by the Levant Company, reaches India . 1589
Petition presented by 101 merchants and others to Elizabeth for a
charter to trade with India . . . . . . . . 1599
John Mildenhall sent as Ambassador to Agra, which he reaches in . 1603
Charter for 15 years to “The Governor and Company of Merchants
of London trading to the East Indies " . . . . . . 1600
A fleet from Torbay reaches Acheen in Sumatra, and Bantam in Java,
establishing factories in each place . . . . . . .
Second Charter, by which the East India Company is made a corporate
body, with the retention of a. power to dissolve it at 3 years'
notice. Captain Hawkins of the Hector reaches Agra with a letter
to J ehangir. The Dutch occupy Pulicat . . . . . .
The Mogul Emperor issues a firma'n, permitting the English to
establish factories at Surat, Ahmedabad, Cambay, and Gogo . . 1611
Captain Best, with the Dragon and Hosianoler, defeats the Portuguese
squadron at Surat, and receives a fi'rman, authorising an English
1601
1609
Envoy to reside at Agra, and the English to trade with Surat . . 1612
Sir Thomas Roe, Ambassador to Jehangir, reaches India . . . 1615
The Danish settlement of Tranquebar founded . . 1617
The Dutch and English Companies contend for the exclusive-trade
with the Spice Islands . . . . . . . . 1618
The Dutch assign to the English a share of the pepper trade with Java
and with Pulicat . . . . . . . . . 1619
Sir Robert Shirley courteoust received by J ehangir at Agra 1619
The East India Company receive permission to exercise martial law
India . . . . . . . . . . . . 1624
Treaty with Portugal, by which the English are allowed to trade with
Portuguese ports 1n India . . . . . . . 1635
Gabriel Boughton, surgeon of the Company’s ship Hopewell, cures the
daughter of Shah Jehan and the favourite mistress of the N awab of
Bengal, and so obtains for the Company the right to trade through-
out the dominions of the Great Mogul . . . . . . 1636
Fort St. George built at Madras . . . . . . . . 1641
Fort St. George constituted a Presidency . . . . . . 1654
New Charter for 7 years . . . . . . . . . 1657
Forts on Malabar coasts placed under Surat, Bengal under Madras . 1658
The Dutch take Negapatam from the Portuguese, and make it their
capital on that coast . . . . . . . . 1660


Introd. REMARKABLE nvnn'rs TO END or IBM CENTURY
xlix
Bombay ceded to England by the Portuguese as part of the Infanta
Catheriua’s dower on her marriage with Charles II. . . . .
A New Charter confirms former privileges, with the right to make
peace and war, to exercise civil and criminal jurisdiction, and send
unlicensed persons to England . . . . . ‘. .
Earl of Marlborough and Sir Abraham Shipman with 5 men-of-war and
500 soldiers arrive at Bombay, to occupy the island in fulfilment of
the Treaty . . . .7 . . . . . . .
Sir Abraham Shipman having died with most of his men at Anjadeva,
his secretary Cooke makes a convention with the Portuguese, which
Charles II. refuses to ratify. Sir Gervase Lucas succeeds Cooke, and
estimates the population of Bombay at 10,000, and the revenue at
£6490: 17 :4 . . . . . . . . . . .
French East India Company established. Defence of Surat by the
English against Shivaji, for which they are rewarded with fresh pn'vi-
leges by Aurangzib . . . .- . . . . . .
Island of Bombay granted b Charles II. to the East India Company .
The natives destroy the Eng ish factory at Honawar, and murder every
Englishman . . . . . . . . . .
St. Helena granted by Royal Charter to the Company . . .
Dr. John Fryer visits Bombay, and reckons population at 60,000
Bombay revolts under Captain Keigwin
Admiral Sir Thomas Grantham arrives in
mits to his authority . . . . . . . .
Bombay made a regency, with sway over all the Company's establish-
ments. Pondicherry colonised by the French. English driven from
Hooghly, and allowed to return
Fort St. David built.
Bombay, and Keigwin sub.-
in Bombay with 25,000 men, and takes Mazagon . . . .
Chaplain Ovington’s visit to Bombay described in Voyage to Surat
Charter forfeited for non-payment of 5 per cent levied on all Joint
ISitcck Companies, but on let October a new charter granted by the
mg . . . . . . . . . , .
New Company incorporated under the name of “ The English Company."
The old Company, called “The London Company," ordered to cease
trading in three years. Calcutta purchased by the old Company,
and Fort-William built . . . . . . . . .
The old Com any obtain an Act authorising them to trade under the
charter of t e new Company . . . . . . .
Lord Godolphin's Award, by which the two Com anies are united
under the title of “ The United Company of Marc ants of England
trading to the East Indies." Three Presidencies established, and a
(goveé-nor, with the title of General, and a Council appointed for
om a . . . . . . . . . . .
July. Deyputies from the Company an-ive at Delhi, and on the 6th of
January 1717 obtain a fir'man exempting their trade from duties,
and allowing them to possess land round their factories . . .
Ostend East India Company formed . . . . . . .
The Emperor of Germany grants a charter to the Ostend Company,
under which they carry on a successful trade . . . . .
Charter renewed till Lady-day 1769
Swedish India Company formed .
Malhar Rao Holkar takes Tanna
5000 men, and that of the Portuguese 800 . . . . .
The Company lend £1,000,000 to Government, and obtain an extension
from the.Portuguese, his- losslbeing.
Y’akub Khan side, the Imperial Admiral-lands '
DATES
1661
1661
1662
1663
1664
1668
1670
1673
1675
1683
1684
1687
1689
1689
1693
1698
1700
1708
1715
1717
1723
1730
1731
1739


REMARKABLE EVENTS TO END or 18TH CENTURY
I ndia.
of privileges to 1783. Commencement of the contest between England
and France in India . . . . . . . . .
War declared between En land and France. A French fleet anchors 12
miles S. of Madras, and ands a force under La Bourdonnais. Madras
capitulates after a bombardment of five days. La Bourdonnais signs
a treaty to restore the town on a ransom being paid. This treaty
‘ violated by Dupleix, Governor of Pondicherry . . .
19th December. Dupleix falls in an attack on Fort St. David .
The English lay siege to Pondicherry, but without success. Treaty
of Aix-la-Chapelle, by which Madras is restored to the English
Sahuji Rajah of Tanjore, dethroned by his cousin, calls in the aid of
the English, who, after one repulse, take Devikota, which was to be
the guerdon of their assistance. They then desert their ally and
conclude a treaty with Pratap Sing. Clive leads the storming party
at Devikota. The war in the Carnatic begins . . . .
Poona made ca ital of the Marathas . . . . . . .
Muhammad ’ i, claimant of the Nawabship of the Carnatic, whose
cause is espoused by the English, takes refuge in Trichinopoly, which
is besieged by the French under M. Lally and Chanda Sahib. The
siege ends in their utter discomfiture. Clive takes Arcot, and de-
fends it against overwhelming odds . . . . . . .
Dupleix superseded. 26th December. Treaty of peace signed at
Pondicherry—the French and English withdraw from interference
in the affairs of the Native Princes . . . . . . .
Commodore James takes Suvarndurg and Bankot from Angria, the
Maratha piratical chief . . . . . . . .
11th February. Angria taken risoner, and his forts destroyed, by
Admiral Watson and Colone Clive, assisted by the troops of the
Peshwa. 18th June. Calcutta attacked by Siraju-daulah. The
tragedy of the Black Hole . . . . . . . .
2d January. Calcutta retaken. 23d June. Battle of Plassey. Mir
J ’afar made Subahdar of Bengal in room of Siraju-daulah. War
renewed in the Carnatic. English take Madura . . . .
28th April. Count de Lally arrives at Fort St. David with a French
fleet, and an indecisive action is fought next day. lst June. Lally
takes Fort St. David, and razes the fortifications. 11th June. A
commission arrives in Bengal from the Directors, appointing a
Council of ten, with a Governor for each three months. All invite
Clive to assume the Government. 4th October. Lally takes Arcot;
and on 11th December lays siege to Madras . . . . .
19th February. Lally retires from before Madras. 6th April. The
English take Masulipatam. The Nizam engages not to permit the
French to settle in his dominions. 9th November. Wandiwash taken
9th February. Arcot taken by the English. July. Vansittart succeeds
Clive as Governor of Bengal. Clive sails for England in February.
Mir Kasim succeeds Mir J’afar as Subahdar of Bengal. 27th Sep-
tember. Revenue of Burdwan, Midnapur, and Chittagaon ceded to
the English by Mir Kasim . . . . . . . .
7th January. Battle of Paniput. 14th. Pondicherry taken by the
English. Fall of the French power in the Deccan. Shah ’Alam
II. defeated at Patna by Major Carnac. Treaty with Shah ’Alam,
who acknowledges Mir Kasim on payment of £240,000 per annum .
10th February. Pondicherry and other forts restored to t e French by
the treaty of Paris. 25th June. Mr. Ellis, with a. body of troops,
attacked and made prisoners by Mir Kasim at Patna. July. The
DATES
1744
1746
1747
1748
1749
1750
1751
1754
1756
1756
1757
1758
1759
1760
1761


lhhwd. REMARKABLE svnnrsro END or 18TH CENTURY
1i
English agree to restore Mir J ’afar. 6th November. Patna taken
by the English: Mir Kasim seeks shelter with the Nawab of Oudh .
Mr. Ellis, chief of the Factory at Patna, and 200 English murdered at
Patna by Sumroo, an officer in the service of Mir Kasim, October
23d October. Battle of Buxar . . . . . . .
Death of Mir J ’afar at Calcutta. His son, Najmu-daulah, succeeds
him. 3d May. Lord CliVe arrives at Calcutta as Governor-General.
12th August. The Diwani, or Revenue of Bengal, Bahar, and Orissa
granted to the Company by Shah ’Alam II. . . . . .
8th May. Najmu-daulah dies, and is succeeded by his brother,
Saifu-daulah. The Nizam (Nizam ’Ali) cedes the N. Sarkars to
the English for 5 lakhs per annum . . . . . . .
January. Lord Clive sails for England. September. The troops of the
Nizam and Haidar 'Ali attack the Englis . . . . .
Treaty with the Nizam, who cedes the Carnatic and Balaghat, and re-
duces the tribute for the Sarkars. The English attack Haidar ’Ali .
4th April. Haidar, at the gates of Madras, forces the English to con-
clude a peace . . . . . . . . . . .
War between Haidar and the Marathas. Shah ’Alam II. enters Delhi
with the Marathas . . . . . . . . . .
July. Marathas make peace with Haidar . . . . . .
Allahabad and Kora sold to the Nawab of Oudh for 50 lakhs; the
Nawab agrees with \Varren Hastings to ay 40 lakhs for the reduc-
tion of Rohilcund. Tanjore taken by t e English on the 16th of
September, at the instigation of the Nawab of the Carnatic, and the
Rajah handed over to the Nawab. The Dutch expelled by the
English from Negapatam. The other Presidencies subordinated to
Bengal. Supreme Court established at Calcutta . . . .
23d April. The Rohillas defeated by the English. 28th December.
Salsette and Bassein taken by the Bombay troops . . . .
6th March. Treaty between the Bombay Government and Raghuba,
the deposed Peshwa, who cedes Salsette and Bassein, and the
revenues of Broach. May. The Bombay army march to the aid of
Raghuba, and gain several successes. The Supreme Government dis-
approve of the roceedings of the Bombay Government, who are
compelled to wit draw their troops, whereupon Raghuba retreats to
Surat. Asafu-daulah, Nawab of Oudh, cedes Benares to the Com-
pany, who guarantee to him by treaty Allahabad and Kora. 11th
December. Lord Pigot succeeds to the Government of Madras . .
Rajah of Tanjore restored. Nand Kumar hanged for forgery. Lord
Pigot arrested by two suspended members of Council and their fac-
tion and imprisoned . . . . . . . . .
July. Chandcrnagore, Masulipatam, and Karikal taken from the
French. 10th August. The French fleet defeated off Pondicherry, and
driven from the coast by the English. October. Pondicherry surren-
ders. Heating: tenders his resignation to the Court of Directors, who
accept it, but e subsequently disowns it . . . . .
4th January. Ex edition to Poona to support Raghuba. It fails, how-
ever, and the nglish are compelled to sign a treat , by which they
give up Ragliuba and all their acquisitions since 1 56. 30th J anu-
ary. General Goddard's celebrated march across India. He reaches
Burhanpur, leaves it on the 6th of February, and reaches Surat on
the 26th . . . . . . . . . . . .
15th January. Convention of Wargaon, by which everything taken
from the Marathas since 1773 was restored to them 15th January
nuns
1763
1763
1764
1765
1766
1767
1768
1769
1771
1772
1773
1774
1775
1776
1777
1779
1779


lii REMARKABLE EVENTS TO END or 18TH CENTURY
I ndia
2d January. General Goddard crosses the Tapti, and takes Dabhoi
(20th January), and Ahmedabad (15th February), and 5th April he
defeats Sindia. 25th August. Sir Hector Munro arrives from
Madras to oppose Haidar. 10th September. Baillie’s defeat and
surrender. 11th. The English retreat, and reach Madras on the
13th. 31st October. Haidar takes Arcot. 5th November. Sir Eyre
Coote arrives at Madras with reinforcements . . . . .
17th January. Advance of Sir E. Coote. 1st July. He defeats Haidar
near Porto Novo, and returns to Madras in November. 22d June.
Lord Macartney arrives at Madras as Governor. Sadras, Pulicat,
and Negapatam taken from the Dutch. 24th October. J udgeship of
Sadr Diwani given by W. Hastings to Sir Elijah Impey, already
Chief Judge of the Supreme Court. The Commons recall Impey in
May following. The Company's Charter renewed till March 1794 .
General Goddard retreats from Campoli to Panwell with the loss of
438 rank and file, and 18 European officers killed and wounded, pur-
sued by the Marathas under Hari Pant and Parshuram Bhao and
Tukoji Holkar, 23d April . . . . . . . .
18th February. Colonel Brathwaite, with 100 Europeans, 300 cavalry,
and 1500 Seipoys, after a gallant defence of two days, overpowered
by Tipu, an his whole force out to pieces or made prisoners. The
battle took place about 40 miles from Taujore, on the Kolerun river.
19th. The French land 2000 men to aid Tipu. 12th A ril. Inde-
cisive action between the fleets of Admiral Hughes and t s French
Admiral Suffrein. Blst August. The French take Trincomalee in
Ceylon. 8th September. Action between the fleets, in which the
English have the advantage. 7th December. Death of Haidar 'Ali .
General Matthews takes Bednur. March. M. Bussy lands at Cudda-
lore. General Stuart, who had succeeded Sir Eyre Coote, being
ordered to march on Cuddalore, refuses, but sets out on the 21st of
April at the rate of 2} miles a day. He attacks on the 13th of June,
and is repulsed with the loss of 62 officers and 920 men, nearly all
Europeans, killed or mortally wounded. Indecisive action between
Hughes and Sufi'rein. General Stuart's army saved by the peace be-
tween the English and the French; he is arrested and sent to England.
The French possessions in India restored in pursuance of the treaty of
Versailles. Trincomalee restored to the Dutch. Tipu retakes Bed-
nur, where Colonel Macleod had superseded General Matthews. The
English army made prisoners, and treated with great cruelty by Tipu
24th January. The English garrison of Mangalore, which had been
besieged by Tipu since 23rd May 1783, capitulates, and marches
out with all the honours of war. 11th March. Peace with Tipu;
conquests on both sides restored. 13th August. Mr. Pitt’s Bill,
establishes Board of Control . . . . . . .
13th February. Trial of Warren Hastings began. Defence began
2d June 1791; acquitted 23d April, 1795. The Court grant him
an annuity of £4000 for 28% years from the 24th of June 1785 . .
Decennial land settlement in Bengal began; the same in Behar next
year: the whole completed in 1793, when it was declared perpetual.
This is the permanent settlement of Lord Cornwallis, by which the
Zamindars were declared landowners, they having been only the
revenue agents of the Mogul Government. 24th December. Tipu
attacks the lines of Travancore. . . . . . . .
7th May. Tipu ravages part of Travancore. June. Alliance between
the English, Marathas, and the Nizam against him: signed by the
DATES
1780
1781
1781
1782
1783
1784
1788
1789


Introd. INDIAN mums liii
DATES
1790
Marathas on the 1st of June, by the Nizam on the 4th of July.
13th June. General Meadows opens the cam sign . . . .
5th February. Lord Cornwallis marches to Vel ore. 21st March. Takes
Bangalore. 26th May. The English, on their retreat owing to disease,
are joined by the Marathas,. July. The allies reach Bangalore . 1791
6th February. The allies storm the redoubts at Seringapatam. 9th
March. Tipu signs treaty, by which he agrees to pay £3,300,900, and
to give his two eldest sons as hostages . . . . . .
Regular Civil Courts established in Bengal ; Pondicherry and other French
settlements taken for the third time. New charter for 20 years.
Company to provide 300 tons of shipping for private traders . . 1793
Sons of Tipu restored to him . . . . . . . . 1794
The Dutch settlements in Ceylon, at Banda, Amboyna, Malacca, and
the Cape taken. Cochin surrenders after a gallant defence . . 1795
Treaty with the Nizam, by which he agrees to disband his French Con-
tingent and receive four battalions of English . . . . . 1798
4th May. Seringapatam stormed, and Tipu slain. Partition Treaty
of Mysore between the Nizam and the English. Treaty with the
Rajah of Tanjore, “ by which he surrenders his power to the English,
receiving a lakh of pagodas as pension, and one-fifth of the net
revenue.” Sir J. Malcolm sails from Bombay as Ambassador to Persia 1799
The Nawab of Surat resi s his government for a pension of £10,000 per
annum. Subsidiary reaty with the Nizam, who gives up his share
of Mysore in consideration of English protection . . . . 1800
1792
SOME NATIVE TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK
[A. signifies Arabic; H. Hindustani or Hindi; K. Kanarese ; Mal. Malayalam; M. Marathi ;
My. Malay; P. Persian; 8. Sauscrit; Tel. Telugu; Tur. Turkish; T. Tamil.]
AIKAM, A. pl. of (mm, “orders.”
AMI'R (Ameer), A. “commander,” a. title of princes and nobles, as the Amirs
of Sindh.
ANA (Anna), H. the 16th part of a rupee.
ArrAKATr (Anikut), Tell. adda, “between,” katgu, “to bind,” a dam or
embankment.
AYAT, verse of the Koran.
BABI'IL, A. a tree of the acacia kind.
BAHADUR, P. "brave," “chivalric,” a title of honour among Mohammedans.
BAJBA (Bud erow), H. a large, round-bottomed boat, without a keel.
BAMAN, S. t e 5th incarnation of Vishnu, in the shape of a dwarf.
BUNGALOW, H. a thatched house; the name usually applied to the houses
of the English in India, and to the rest-houses for travellers built by
Government on the public roads.
BAOLi, a well.
BAzAR, P. a market or market-place ; a street of shops.
BEGAM (Begum), Tur. a lady of rank ; a queen or princess.
BnArA (Betta), H. additional allowance to public servants or soldiers em-
ployed on special duty.
BRAHMAN, S. a Hindu of the first, or priestly caste.
BUDDHIST, S. a worshipper of Buddh, or Sakya Muni, who died 3.0. 643.
Cas'rn, class ; sect ; corruption of the Portuguese casta or race.
CATAMARAN, T. katgu, “to bind," mamm, “a tree,” a log-raft on which
the natives of Madras paddle through the surf.


liv INDIAN 'rnnus India
CHAITYA, S. a hall of assembly.
CHAKRA, S. a discus ; the quoit of Vishnu ; a wheel.
CHAUSAR, S. Hindu, dice.
CHAWAIQI, Tel. a native rest-house for travellers.
CHQULTRIE, an English corruption of Chawadi, qxv.
CHUNAM, S. an English corruption of H.0h12nd, from S. chzimah, lime, a plaster or
mortar sometimes made of shells of a. remarkable whiteness and brilliance.
COMPOUND, probably My. an enclosure. A corruption of the Malay word
Kampong.
DAGHOPA, DAGOBA, S. deh, “the body," 9114;, “to hide," a circular structure
inside Buddhistic cave temples, supposed to contain the ashes or relics of
Buddha, and occupying the place of our altars.
DAK, Post. - Dali-BungalOW, a Rest-house for travellers.
DARBAR (Durbar), P. a royal court ; an audience or levee ; in Kattywar a chief.
DHARAMSALA, S. dharma, “justice,” “piety,” and shdld, “a hall,” a place
of accommodation for travellers and pilgrims.
DiWAN, P. “ aroyal court," “a minister,” especially the chief financialminister.
DROOG or DRUG, S. an English corruption of druga, “ a fort.”
DUBASH, do, “tWo," bhztshd, “language,” one who speaks two languages,
an interpreter. '
DWARPAL, a door-keeper.
FAKiR, A. “poor,” a religious man, who has taken the vow of poverty.
GAnA, S. an attendant of Shiva.
GHAT (Ghaut), S, ghagta, “ a landing-place,” “ steps on a river side," a
mountain pass ; any narrow passage.
GOPURA, S. from gap, “to preserve," the gate of a Pagoda.
GRANTHi, Sanscrit written in the Tamil character.
GUMAsH'rAl-I, P. an agent.
GUMBAZ, a cupola ; a dome.
HAMMAL, A. a bearer of a palki, in Bombay an indoor servant.
HARI'M (Haram), a sanctuary ; ladies’ apartments. -
HAVALDAR, H. an officer in native regiments corresponding to our sergeant.
HéM, S. sacrifice.
HUKKAH (Hookah), A. a water-pipe.
HUZI'IR, A. the royal presence, a respectful term applied to high officials.
IAGI'R, P. a tenure by which the public revenues of an estate or district were
granted to an individual, with powers to collect them, and administer
the general affairs of the estate.
JAM‘ADAR, A. a native ofiicer next to a Subahdar, and corresponding to our
lieutenant.
KACHERI' or KACHHARI', H.M. a court or office for public business.
KALAMAH, the creed of Islam.
KgAN, A. a title of nobility answering to our “lord.”
KHANPI (Candy), M. a measure of weight and capacity: in Madras=5000
lbs. ; in Bombay, 560 lbs.
Knas, special Khas Mahal=Hall of special audience.
KHIiII), M. a narrow pass between mountains.
KIL’ADAR, A. the commander of a fort.
KIMKHWAB (Kimcob), P. silk stufi' interwoven with gold and silver thread.
Konis, M. a caste in the Konkan and Guzerat, who are fishermen, watermen,
and used to be robbers.
KOTARAM, T. a palace.
KUBBAH, A. a tomb.
KULI' (Cooly), T. and Tur. a day labourer.
KUMBI', M. a farmer, an agricultural caste.


Introd. INDIAN 'rnams 1v
LAKH (Lac), S. the number 100,000.
LA? or LA'rH, “a pillar; ” ancient Hindi'i pillars on which inscriptions were
set up in an old and obsolete character; also applied to that writing.
MAHARS, M. a low caste in the Bombay Presidency.
MALA, S. a garland.
MAN (Maund), H. a weight, varying in different parts of India. In Bombay
it is 25 lbs. ; in Bengal, since 1883, 87? lbs.
MANpAPAM, S. an open pavilion or porch in front of a temple.
MASSULAH, T. a boat sewed together, used for crossing the surf at Madras.
MIHRAB, the recess in the wall of a mosque—on the side nearest Mecca—to
which Mohammedans turn at prayer.
MIMBAR, the pulpit in a mosque.
MONs00N, A. a corruption of the A. mausim, “a season ;” applied now to
the periodical rains in India which fall during the S.W. Monsoon.
MORTT, T. a Toda village in the Nilgiri Hills.
MUKWAR, T. a low caste in Malabar.
MUNsHI' (Moonshee), A. a writer ; a secretary ; a teacher of languages.
MnNsIF, A. a native judge.
NAG, S. the cobra snake.
NAIK, S. an oificer in native armies corresponding to a corporal ; an ancient title.
NAUTGH, S. a dance ; an exhibition of dancing-girls.
NAWBAT K_HANA, A. the guard-room ; the chamber over a gateway, where a
band is stationed.
NAWAB, A. this word means lit. “deputies,” being the plural of M’ib, “a
deputy." It is now a title of governors and other high officials.
NIADIs, Mah. an outcast tribe of Malabar.
NizAM, A. an arranger ; an administrator; a title of the prince whose capital
is Haidarabad in the Deccan.
NULLA, properly Nala, “watercourse.”
PAGODA, P. an Anglican corruption of the P. word but- kadah, “ an idol
temple ” ; also a. coin=3§ rupees, called by the natives Mn, but de-
riving its a pellation of pagoda from its showing a temple on one face ;
there are ot er derivations.
PAL-AL, T. the priests of the Toda tribe, lit. “ milkmen."
PALEGAR (Polygar), T. Tel. a shareholder; a landed proprietor. A title of
persons in the Madras Presidency who correspond to Zamindars in other
parts of India.
PALANQUEEN, H. an Anglican corruption of the word pallet, a vehicle in which
persons of rank are carried on men’s shoulders.
PAN, S. the leaf of the betel creeper.
PARsI's, P. a caste who worship the Deity under the emblem, fire.
PanwAnis, H. people of low caste in W. India.
PE-KoVIL, T. “ devil-temple," a. hut dedicated to the worship of the spirits
of dead men.
PEONS, from the Portuguese peao, Spanish perm, but sometimes thought an
Anglican corruption of the H. word piyddah, “footman.”
PESHKARs, P. an agent. In Bengal, the native officer under a judge, next to
the Sawhmddr in rank.
PESHKASH, P. tribute ; an offering from an inferior to a superior.
Pasnw‘, P. the prime ministers of the Rajahs of same ; Brahmans who after-
wards became the supreme chiefs of the Maratha nation.
PETA, Tel. native town or suburb. Specially applied to a town subordinate
to a fort.
PHATEMAR, M. h't. “59. letter carrier," a fast-sailing vessel common on the W.
coast of India.


lvi INDIAN TERMS India
PHINs, T. the Tuds name for the stone circles on the Nilgiri Hills.
PICE, H. a corruption of the word paisd, a copper coin, of which 64 go to a
ru es.
Pin, P.pold, a Mohammedan saint.
RAJAH, S. a Hindu king or prince.
RAmosis, S. a tribe in the Deccan, who are watchmen, and used to be robbers.
Rani, S. the wife of a Rajah ; a queen or princess.
RATE, S. a chariot.
RIsALAHDAR, A. a native captain of a troop of horse.
RYOT, A. an Anglican corruption of the A. word r'aiyat, a subject, a peasant.
Sana AMI'N, A. a native judge.
SADB. 'ADéLAT, A. formerly the Supreme Court of Justice in India for trying
a ea s.
SAHIBIIPA. lord ; a title applied to English gentlemen in India.
SAKTI', S. a goddess ; the personified power of a deity.
SARAI', a rest-house for travellers ; a caravansarai.
Sari (Suttee), S. the burning of a widow with her deceased husband.
SHAH, P. a king ; a title usually applied to the King of Persia.
SHANARs, T. a tribe in Tinnevelly and the extreme S. of India, who are palm-
tree climbers by profession.
SHANKH, S. a shell ; the large shells which are blown as horns by the Hindus
during religious ceremonies.
SHOLA, T. a patch of jungle, a wooded dell.
SHUDRA, S. the 4th or lowest caste of Hindus.
SIPAHI' (Sepoy), P. a native soldier, one of a sipdh or army.
SHIBANDI' (Seebandy), M. an auxiliary ; a soldier of a native auxiliary levy.
SI'IBAH, A. a province.
SI'IBAHDAR, A. a governor of a province; a native military officer corresponding
to a captain.
TansiLDAR, A. a native collector of revenue, who is also a magistrate.
TAJ, P. a crown.
T’ALUu, or more properly ta'allulcah, a district ; a division of a rovince.
TAPPAL, H. in Bombay the post; delivery of letters ; a relay of orses.
TATTI, M. matting; a mat shade.
TEPPA KULAM, South India, a tank surrounded by steps with usually a
tem le in the centre.
Tunas, . a remarkable tribe on the Nilgiri Hills.
Tunnar, A. a tomb.
VAzm, A. a prime minister.
VIHARA, S. a cell, an apartment in a monastery or cave.
VIMANAH, S. a sacred vehicle or shrine.
WAv on WAo, a well with steps down to the water.
WIS‘TZ, K. Indian steel.
ZAMI'NDAR, P. a landed proprietor, a person who receives a percentage on
Government rents.
ZIAR, T. a low caste in Malabar.
ZIL'A (Zillah), A. a province or tract, constituting the jurisdiction of a circuit
judge.


Introd.
lvii
HINDU WORDS
The following abbreviations are used in the Routes given in this book :—
D' B' """"" house for travellers.
div. ............ Division of the army.
E. I. C'. ...... East India Company.
E. ............ East.
ft ............... Feet.
................ Hotel
Inch.
Left hand.
Junction.
. Mile.


Dak Bungalow, a rest- 12. o. ............ Post-oflico.
1'. Z. (2. River left bank.
1'. b. Right bank.
Rest-house for travel-




R.H. ......... lers in Ceylon.
'rly. .. Railway.
1's. ............ Rupees.
Roy. As. Soc. Royal Asiatic Society.
rt ...... Right hand.
sta. Station.
S. ............... South.
W. ............ West.
yds. ............ Yards.
:9: This sign in the text appended to a name indicates that further informa-
tion relating to the subject is to be found in the Index and Directory at the
end.
A FEW Hmni Worms
ENGLISH. Hmni.
One Ek
Two Do
Three Tin
Four Char
Five Panch
Six Chhah
Seven sat
Eight Ath
Nine Nan
Ten Das
Eleven Igarah
Twelve Barah
Thirteen Terah
Fourteen Chaudah
Fifteen Pandrah
Sixteen Solah
Seventeen Satrah
Eighteen Atharah
Nineteen Unis
Twenty Bis
Twenty-one Ikis
Twenty-two Bais
Twenty-three Teis
Twenty-four Chaubis
Twenty-five Pachis
Twenty-six Chhabbis
Twenty-seven Satzi’is
Twenty-eight Atha’is
Twenty-nine Untis
Thirty Tis
Thirty-one Iktis
Thirty-two Battis
Thirty-three Tetis
Thirty-four Chautis

ENGLISH. HINDI'.
Thirty-five Paintis
Thirty-six Chhattis
Thirty-seven Saintis
Thirty-eight Athtis
Thirty-nine Unchalis
Forty Chalis
Forty-one Iktalis
Forty-two Be’alis
Forty-three Tetalis
Forty-four Chau’alis
Forty-five Paintalis
Forty-six Chhiyalis
Forty-seven Saintalis
Forty-eight Athtali's
Forty-nine Unchas
Fifty Pachés
Fifty-one Ikawan
Fifty-two Bawan
Fifty-three Tirpan
Fifty-four Chauwan
Fifty-five Pachpan
Fifty-six Chhapan
Fifty-seven Satawan
Fifty~eight Athawan
Fifty-nine Unsath
Sixty Sath
Sixty-one Iksath
Sixty-two Basath
Sixty-three Tirsath
Sixty-four Chausath
Sixty-five Painsath
Sixty-six Chhiyésath
Sixty-seven Satsath
Sixty-eight Athsath


lviii
India
HINDU WORDS
ENGLISH.
Sixty-nine
SeVenty
Seventy-one
Seventy-two
Seventy-three
Seventy-four
Seventy-five
Seventy—six
Seventy-seven
Seventy-eight
Seventy-nine
Eighty
Eighty-one
Eighty-two
Eighty-three
Eighty-four
Eighty-five
Eighty-six
Eighty-seven
Eighty-eight
Eighty-nine
Ninety
Ninety-one
Ninety-two
Ninety-three
Ninety-four
Ninety-five
Ninety-six
Ninety-seven
Ninety-eight
Ninety-nine
A hundred
Two hundred
Three hundred
Four hundred
Five hundred
Six hundred
Seven hundred
Eight hundred
Nine hundred
A thousand
Ten thousand
A hundred thou-
sand
A million
Ten millions
A quarter
A half
Three-quarters
One and a quarter
One and a half
1 A quarter less than, pdo'ne ; a half more than, sd'rhe.
2 The Indian months begin about the 15th of the
HINnI'.
Unhattar
Sattar
Ikhattar
Bahattar
Tihattar
Chauhattar
Pachhattar
Chhihattar
Sathattar
Athhattar
Unési
Assi
Ikési
Be’ési
Tirési
Chaurzisi
Panchési
Ohhiési
Satési
Athési
Nauési
Nauwe
Ikénawe
Bzinawe
Tirénawe
Chaurénawe
Pachénawe
Ohiyénawe
Saténawe
Athenawe
Ninénawe
Sau
Do sau
Tin sau
Chair sau
Paineh sau
-Ohhah sau
Sét sau
Ath sau
Nau sau
Hazér
Des hazzir
Lz’tkh
Das lékh
Kror
Péo
fidhé
Paonzi, tin péo 1
Tiwé.
Derh

ENGLISH. Hmnt.
One and three- Paione do
quarters
Two and a quarter Sawé, do
Two and a half Arhéi
Two and three- Péone tin
quarters
Three and a Sawé. tin
quarter
Three and a. half Sérhe tin
Three and three- Peone chélj
quarters
Four and a.
Four and a alf
Four and three-
quarters
A third
Two-thirds
A fifth
A sixth
A seventh
An eighth
A tenth
Months.
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Days.
Sunday
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
East
West
North 3
South K
uarter Sawé, chair
Sérhe chér
Peone pénch
Tisré, hissan
Do tisré. hiaseh
Pénchwén hissah
Ohhathan hiseah
Sétwdn hiassh
Athwén hissah
Daswzin hiesah
Mds, 1110011411145.2
Pus
gégh
ha,
Chaitun
Baisakh
J eth
Asarh
Saiwan
Bhédon
Asan
Kalrtik
Aghan
BM 01‘ Vdr.
Etwér
Sombér
Mangalvér
Budhvdr
Brihaspatvér,
'uulgo biphe
Sukarbair
Sanichré.
Pumb
Pachhim
Uttar
Dakhin
English month; thus Pris is the
latter half of J ammry and the first half of February, and so with all the other months.


Introd. INDIAN COINAGE lix
INDIAN COINAGE
Silver Coins—
The RUPEE is assumed to be equal to 2s., but its value in gold has
sunk as low as 1s. 2%d.
HALF RUPEE, or eight annas.
QUARTER RUPEE (Sikhi),1 or four annas.
ONE EIGHTH OF A RUPEE, or two annas. - '
Copper Coins—
HALF ANNA.
QUARTER ANNA, called one paiszi (Ang. : pice). All small dealings
are transacted in pica.
T1? ANNA, used mostly in banking transactions.
1 Many small transactions are calculated in sikhi. 5 sikhi=RL4 annas.








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Lease... . 3.x » h s first.


BOLIBAY*1 AND ENVIRONS.
Arab Stables
Cemeteries—Colaba Cemetery
European Cemetery, Parell .
Girgaon Cemeteries
Hindu Cremation Ground
Towers of Silence . . . .
Churches—All Saints’, Malabar Hill
Cathedral . . . . .
Christ Church, Byculla
C.M.S. Church, Girgaon
Free Church . .
Roman Catholic Church . .
St. Andrew’s (Scotch Presbyterian)
St. J ohn's, Colaba . . .
St. Peter's, Mazagon
Climate . . . .
Clubs (see Index and Directory).
Custom House . .
Defences . . . .
Derivation of the name .
Docks—P. & O.
Prince’s .
Sassoon .
Victoria .
Dockyard . . .
Educational Institutions—
Alexandra College for Parsi Ladies
Cathedral High School for Girls .
Elphinstone College, Byculla
New Elphinstone High School
School of Design . . .
Scotch Mission School
St. Xavier Jesuit College
' Wilson College .
Excursions—
Cave Temples of Kanhari
Elephants. . . .
Gersoppa Falls
Hydraulic Dock
J Ogeshwar Cave .
Montpezir Caves .
Sapara . .
Tansa Reservoir
Vehar Lake . . . .
General description of Bombay
Geographical Position . . .
Government Houses—Malabar Point
Parell . .
Harbour . .1 . . . .
Hotels see Index and Directory).
Industrial Arts and Manufactures .
Institutions—Charitable and otherwise,
Hospitals, etc.—
Convalescent Home, Colaba
:"
CONTENTS
PAGE
17
7
10
10
10
10
10
10
9
10
10
10
10
10
q
10
2
woooooomwwfl
14

European General Hospital
Gokaldas Hospital . .
Grant Medical College .
House of Correction
Incurable Hospital
J amshidji Dharmsala .
,, Hospital
Ophthalmic ,,
Parsi Almshouse .
,, Dharmsala . . . . .
Pestonji Kama, for Women and
Children
Pinjra Pol
Sailors’ Home . . . . .
Sir J amshidji J ijibhai's Parsi Benevo-
lent Institution . . .
Workhouse . . . . . .
Institutions—Literary and Scientific—
Anthropological Society .
Asiatic Society . . . .
Mechanics’ or Sassoon Institute .
Natural History Society .
Landing and Landing-places .
Lighthouses—
Kennery
Prong .
Markets—
Cotton Market, Colaba
Crawford ,, . .
Nul ,,
Missions . . . . .
Museum and Victoria Gardens
Native Quarter . .
Observatory at Colaba
Public Offices—
Courts of Justice .
Mint .
Post Office . . .
Presidential Secretariat
Public Works’ Secretariat
Telegraph Office
Town Hall . . . . . .
University Library and Clock Tower .
University Hall . ‘ . .
Shooting . . . . .
Shops (see Index and Directory).
Statues . . . . .
Suburbs-—
Breach Candy
Byculla .
Malabar Hill
Mazagon
Parell . . . _ .
Temples—Hindu .
Victoria Railway Station
.io.
ix!-
H
H
m monuauauua
H
O-Qoacceowos
THE island of Bombay is situated in one of a group of islands which are
It is separated from the mainland and from
lat. 18° 53'_45", long. 72° 52'.
1 * This mark implies that further information is to be found in the Index and Directory
at the end.
[India]
7“ I“.
B


2 BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
one another by very narrow channels.
They are: 1. Bassein ; 2. Dravi; 3.
Versova; 4. Salsette; 5. Trombay, in
which the hill called the Neat’s Tongue,
900 ft. high, is a conspicuous mark;
6. Bombay; 7. Old Woman's Island;
8. Colaba; 9. Elephanta; 10. Butcher’s
Island ; 11. Gibbet Island; 12. Karanja.
Bombay Island is 11% m. long from
the S. extremity of Colaba to Zion
Causeway, over which the railway passes
to the larger island of Salsette, and from
3 to 4 In. broad in that portion which
lies to the N. of the Esplanade. It is
difficult to estimate its area, but it
may be put down as about 22 sq. m.
The pop. of the city is 804,500. When
it is remembered that the greater bulk
of this number of people is contained
in suburbs, which cover only 4 sq. m.,
it will be seen how astonishingly dense
the pop. over that area is ; and it
speaks well for the climate and the
sanitation of the municipality that
there should be comparatively so little
disease there.
Climate—The average temperature
of Bombay is 792° F. It is neither
so hot in summer nor so cold in winter
as many places in the interior. The
coolest months are from November till
March. The S.W. monsoon begins
about the second week in June, and the
rains continue till the end of September.
The average rainfall is 7030 in.
The derivation of the word Bombay
is uncertain; it is written by Indians
Mambe, and sometimes Bambe from a
goddess called Mamba Devi, to whom
there was a temple 120 years ago on
what is now called the Esplanade.
It was pulled down and rebuilt near
the Bhendi Bazaar. The Maratha name
of Bombay is Mumbai, from Mahima,
“Great Mother,” a title of Devi, still
traceable in Mahim, a tower on the
W. coast of Bombay Island. (See a
highly interesting article in Yule’s
Glossary Qf Anglo-Indian terms.)
Bombay Harbour.—On approaching
Bombay from the W. there is little to
strike the eye. The coast of the island
is low, the highest point, Malabar

Hill, being only 180 ft. above the sea.
But on entering the harbour a stranger
must be impressed with the ictur-
esqueness of the scene. To t e W.
the shore is crowded with buildings,
some of them, as Colaba Church and
the Tower of the University, very lofty
and well proportioned. To the N. and
E. are numerous islands, and on the
mainland hills rising to an altitude of
from 1000 to 2000 ft. Pro-eminent
amongst these is the remarkable hill
of Bawa Malang, otherwise called Mal-
langardh, on the top of which is an
enormous mass of rock with perpen-
dicular sides, crowned with a fort now
in ruins. On the plateau below the
sharp was a strong fortress which, in
1780, was captured by Captain Abing-
ton, who, however, found the upper
fort quite impregnable. (See Grant
Duff, vol. ii. p. 41.)
The port is crowded with vessels of
all nations, and cons icuous amongst
them are 2 monitors, or the defence of
the Harbour. These are called the
Abyssinia and the Magdala, and are
armed with 10-inch guns in 2 turrets.
The main defences, however, are bat-
teries on rocks, which stud the sea from
about opposite the Memorial Church
at Colaba to the Elphinstmw Reclama-
tion (see 1. 8) The fort most to the
S. is called the Oyster Rock; that on the
Middle Ground shoal is in the middle
of the anchorage. The third defence
is on Cross Island, at the N. end of the
anchorage. The higher part of this
island has been cut down and armed
with a battery.
Landing and Landing-places.—It
is usual for steamers to stop for 1; an
hour off what is now called Wellington
Pier in official papers, but which
amongst the public obstinater retains
its old name of Apollo Bandar (again
see Yule’s Glossary). The Custom-
House officers come on board here and
pass all personal baggage, but heavy
boxes are more conveniently passed
through at the Custom House at the
docks. The hotel authorities and
Messrs. T. Cook & Son generally send
representatives to meet passengers by
each steamer. It is convenient for


GENERAL DESCRIPTION—PUBLIC OFFICES 3
travellers to entrust their baggage to
one of them, or to their private native
servant, if they have engaged one be-
forehand and instructed him to meet
them on board. If the steamer arrives
at night, it is advisable to remain on
board until the morning. The P. 8t 0.
steamer, after landing the mail at Apollo
Bandar, proceeds about 3 m. N. up the
harbour to Mazagon. The baggage is
then all landed, and passed through
the Custom House expeditiously. The
only articles which pay a high duty and
ive trouble are firearms. If these
lave not been in India before, or have
not been in India for a year, a high
ad ralo'rem duty is levied on them,
and they cannot be removed from the
Custom House until the duty is paid,
or a certificate given that a full year
has not elapsed since the owner left
India.
Travellers who have not been in the
East before will be struck by the pic-
turesqueness of the scene on landing in
Bombay. The quaint native craft at
the quay ; the crowds of people dressed
in the most brilliant and varied cos-
tumes ; the Hindus of different castes ;
the Mohammedans and the Parsis, with
a sprinkling from other nationalities;
the gaily painted bullock-carts, and
other sights of equal novelty combine
to make a lasting impression on the
stranger's mind.
General Description of Bombay and
suburbs—The Apollo Bandar where
the traveller lands is in the modern
European quarter. As he stands facing
N., the narrow promontory of Colaba
is behind him to the S.E.; on his right
is the Yacht Club ; and before him
stretches the main thoroughfare of the
city, passing through the Fort, with the
business quarter on the rt., and the
grand array of Public Buildings—the
ride of modern Bombay—on the l.
l‘hough other modern cities may boast
of finer individual buildings, none can
compare with these in general arrange-
ment and unity of effect, “conceived
for the most part with a happy inspira-
tion which blends the Gothic and the
Indian schools of architecture."1 On
1 Sir FAIin Arnold’s India Revisited.

the farther side W. they face Back Bay.
Proceeding N. the promontory upon
which Bombay stands widens. On the
extreme right are the docks and dock-
yards, on the left the bay trends away
W. and S. to Malabar Hill and Malabar
Point. In the centre, at the junction
of two thoroughfares, is Victoria Sta-
tion, the largest and most elaborate
building in Bombay, with the Crawford
Market beyond ; and then commences
the densely populated native city, which
extends N. for 2 m. to the suburbs of
Mazagon and Byculla, and to the foot
of Malabar Hill.
The best suburb is Malabar Hill
(about 31} m. from the Fort), which
affords the highest and best situation,
and is covered with charming villas
and bungalows surrounded by gardens.
Amongst them are many handsome
houses belonging to wealthy natives.
Unfortunately the best and highest
position of all is occupied by the
gardens attached to the Towers of
Silence (see below). Along the top of
the same ridge is the Ladies’ Gymkhana
—a favourite resort in the evenings
(see Index), and the little Church of
All Saints. At Malabar Point, at the
extreme S.W., is Government House,
and close to it the Temple of Valkesh-
war. To the N.E. is Camballa Hill
and Breach Candy, overlooking the
Indian Ocean, where there are num-
bers of pleasant bungalows and villas.
To the N. is Parell, where are the
old Government House and the Vic-
toria Gardens; and to the W. the
suburbs of Byculla. and Mazagon,which
include many cotton and other manu-
factories and warehouses. At Mazagon
are also some of the docks.
PUBLIC OFFICES.
One of the most conspicuous features
in Bomba is the grand line of govern-
ment bui dings which face Back Bay
and succeed one another in the follow
ing order, from S. to N. z the Govern-
ment Secretariat, close to Watson’s
Hotel on the Esplanade, University
Hall, Library and Clock Tower, Law
Courts, Public Works’ Secretariat, Post
Office and Telegraph Oflices. There


4 BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India.
is a building to the N. E. of the Tele-
graph Oflices which is used for the
accommodation of the employés of the
telegraph department;
The Presidential Secretariat is 443
ft. long, with two wings 81 ft. long.
In the first floor are the Council Hall,
50 ft. long, Committee Rooms, Private
Rooms for the Governor and Members
of Council, and the Offices of the
Revenue Department. The second
floor contains the Offices of the Judicial
and Military Departments. The style
is Venetian Gothic, and the designer
was Col. Wilkins, RE. The carving
is by native artists. The staircase is
lighted by the great window, 90 ft.
high, over which rises the tower to 170
ft. At the entrance are the arms of Sir
B. Frere (who was Governor when the
plans were formulated for erecting
Public Buildings, and to whom Bom-
bay owes many of its improvements)
and Sir S. Fitzgerald, and there is a
very handsome armoire made of teak,
inlaid with black wood, all the work
of native artisans.
The University Library and Clock
Tower form a grand pile, designed by
Sir Gilbert Scott in the style of 14th-
century Gothic. The Library is a long
low room adorned with carving, and the
Great University or Rajabai Tower on
the W. side forms part of it, and is from
its height the most conspicuous building
in Bombay. It is 260 ft. high, and
was built at the expense of Mr. Prem-
chand Raichand, in memory of his
mother, Rajabai. It cost 300,000 rs.
He also gave 100,000 rs. for the Library ;
and these sums with accumulations
more than sufficed to complete the two
buildings. The Tower, from the top of
which there is a fine view of Bombay,
is divided into 6 stories, and is sur-
mounted by an oct onal lantern spire,
with figures in nic es at the angles.
There are 24 figures in all upon the
tower representing the castes of W.
India. The first floor forms part of
the upper room of the Library, and the
second contains a study for the Regis-
trar. There is an opening several feet
square in the centre of each floor, so

that one can look up 115 ft. to the
ceiling of the Dial Room. The fourth
floor is for the great clock. Under the
dials outside are 4 small galleries, with
stone balustrades.
University Ha11.—This fine building,
in the French Decorated style of the
15th cent., is 104 ft. long, 44 ft. broad,
and 63 ft. high to the apex of the
groined ceiling, with an a )se separated
rom the Hall by a. grand arch, and a
gallery, 8 ft. broad, round three sides.
The painted glass windows have an
excellent effect, and are also most use-
ful in tempering the fierceness of' the
Indian sun. The Hall, designed by Sir
Gilbert Scott, R.A., is called after Sir
Cowasjee J ehangir, who contributed
100,000 rs. towards the cost of erection.
It was completed in 1874.
The Courts of Justice—This im-
mense building}, 562 ft. long, with a
tower 175 ft. igh, was designed by
Gen. J. A. Fuller, RE, is said to have
cost £100,000, and was opened in 1879.
The style is Early English. The
principal entrance is under a large
arched porch in the \V. facade, on
either side of which is an octagon tower
120 ft. high with pinnacles of white
Porbandar stone, and surmounted by
statues of Justice and Mercy. The
main staircase is on the E. side, and is
approached by a noble groined corridor
in Porbandar stone which runs through
the building. The offices of the High
Court are on the first and third upper
floors. The Appellate and Original
Courts are on the second floor. The
Criminal Court is in the centre of the
building above the main corridor,
and has a carved teak gallery for the
public running round 3 sides. The
ceiling is of' dark polished teak in
panels, with a carved centre-piece.
The floor is Italian mosaic. From the
windows of the tower fine views are
obtained. On the E. are the harbour,
fringed with islands, Modi Bay, and
the Fort; and to the W. are Malabar
Hill and Back Bay; and S. Colaba
Point.
Se arated from the Post Office by a
broa road which leads E. to the Fort


PUBLIC OFFICES 5
by Church Gate Road, and W. to the
Church Gate station of the B. B. and
C. I. Railway, is the Public Works'
Secretariat, with a facade 288 ft. long;
the central part having 6 stories.
The Railway, Irrigation, etc. De-
partments are in this office.
The Post Ofice has 3 floors, and is
242 ft. long, with wings on the N. side.
It is in the mediasval style (architect,
Trubshawe). The stone used is the
same as that of the Telegraph Offices ;
the arrangement is excellent in point
of convenience.
The Telegraph Oflice, in modern
Gothic style, has a facade 182 ft. long.
The facing is of coursed rubble stone
from Coorla in Salsette, and the columns
are of blue basalt. '
The State Record Office and Patent
Oflice occupy the W. wing of the
Elphinstone College, close to the
Mechanics' Institute. Amongst the
records are preserved the oldest docu-
ment relating to the Indian Empire, a
letter from Surat, 1630 ; and the letter
of the Duke of Wellington announcing
the victory at Assaye.
The Town Hall, in the Elphinstone
Circle, designed by Col. T. Cowper, was
opened in 1835, and cost about £60,000,
by far the larger portion being defrayed
by the E. I. Comp. The building has
a colonnade in front, and the facade
is 260 ft. long. The pillars in front,
and the external character of the
edifice, are Doric; the interior is Cor-
inthian.
On the ground floor are : the Medical
Board offices, in which are four hand-
some Ionic pillars, copied from those
of a temple on the banks of the llyssus;
and the. office of the Military Auditor
General, and some of the weightier
curiosities of the Asiatic Society. In
the upper story is the Grand As-
sembly Room, 100 ft. square, in which
public meetings and balls are held;
the Assembly Room of the Bombay
Asiatic Society; and the Library.of
this Society, founded by Sir James
Mackintosh, containing about 100,000

volumes. A stranger can have gratui-
tous access to the rooms for a month by
an order from one of the members of
the Society. The Levee Rooms of the
Governor and the Commander-in-Chief,
the Council Room, etc. , are no longer
used for their original purposes. The
statue of Mountstuart Elphinstone, a
distinguished Governor during the
Mutiny, occupies the lace of honour
in the Grand Assemb y Room. That
of Sir J. Malcolm is at the head of the
staircase, and that of Sir C. Forbes in
a corner near it,—all 3 by Chantrey.
At the bottom of the staircase is the
statue of Sir Jamshidji J ijibhai.
The Council Room contains pictures
of Baji Rao Peshwa, whose adopted
son, Nana Dhundu Pant, will be ever
infamous as the author of the massacre
at Cawnpore ; of Baji Rae’s celebrated
minister, Nana Farnavis; and of Ma-
hadaji Sindia,—all three painted by
Mr. Wales. In the Asiatic Society’s
Library are busts of Sir James Carnac
by Chantrey and Sir J. Mackintosh.
The Geographical Room contains pic-
tures of Sir A. Burnes, and Sir C.
Malcolm and Captain Ross, the two
first Presidents of the Geographical
Society; also a very fine collection of
maps.
The Mint is close to the Town Hall,
but farther back, having a tank in front
of it. It is a plain building, with an
Ionic portico, designed by Major J.
Hawkins, and completed in 1829. It
stands upon reclaimed land, where con-
siderable difficulty was experienced in
laying the foundation stone: the cost
was in consequence very great. At
this Mint 300,000 rs. can be coined in
one day. We read that authority was
granted to the Company by the Crown
to establish a mint so early as 1676.
In the Bullion Room there are some-
times from £100,000 to £200,000 of
silver in London bars, weighing 80 lbs.
each, and San Francisco bars, weighing
100 lbs. The sweepings are crushed
by stone rollers weighing four tons, and
the silver is got by litharge. There are
two steam-engines of 40-horse power.
Forty specimens of false coins are ex-
hibited, one of which has been a good


6 BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
I ndt'a
coin, but all the silver has been scooped
out and lead substituted. These coins
have been collected since September
1872.
Government House at Malabar
Point.—It is a pleasant drive of about
4 m. from the Fort along the seaside,
skirting Back Bay, which on account
of the sea-breeze is cooler, though less
interesting, than through the hot and
crowded bazaars. At about 3 m. from
the Fort the road begins to ascend a
spur of Malabar Hill. Near the top
on the l. are the entrance gates to
the drive, which in less than Q m.
through a shady groove of trees by the
sea-shore leads to Government House.
It is a building of no architectural pre-
tensions, but is simply a bungalow, or
rather a series of bungalows, with large
cool rooms and deep verandahs over-
looking the sea, and a pleasant view
across Back Bay to the city of Bombay
on the farther side. Some of the de-
tached bungalows are for the Governor’s
staff and for guests, all being from 80
to 100 ft. above the sea. Below them
at the extreme point is a battery, which
could sweep the sea approach. Not
far off to the N. a large ship, the
Diamond, was wrecked and 80 pas-
sengers were drowned. Sir Evan Nepean
was the first Governor to reside at Mala-
bar Point. He went there in 1813, as
the cool sea-breeze was indispensable to
his health, and built an additional room
to the Sergeants’ quarters, which was
the only house existing in the neigh-
bourhood. In 1819-20, Mr. Elphin-
stone added a public breakfast-room,
and a detached sleeping bungalow on
a small scale. In 1828 Sir John Mal—
colm gave 11 , for public offices, the
Government ouse in the Fort and the
Secretary’s office in Apollo Street, and
considerably enlarging the residence at
Malabar Point, regularly constituted it
a Government House. Close by is the
picturesque temple of Valkeshwar (see
elow). The drive from Malabar Point,
and thence along the sea by Breach
Candy, is one of the most beauti-
ful in the island, and is thronged
with_ carriages and equestrians every
cvenmg.

Government House at Parell was a
Portuguese place of worshi and men-
astery, confiscated by t e English
government on account of the traitor-
ous conduct of the Jesuits in 1720.
Governor Hornby was the first who
took up his residence there, between
1771-80.
To supply the required accommoda-
tion Mr. Elphinstone built the right
and left wings. The public rooms are
in the centre facing the W. The
drawing-room or ball-room above the
dining-room occupies the place of the
old Portuguese chapel. On the staircase
there is a bust, and in the ball-room a
portrait, of the Duke of Wellington.
At the end of the ball-room is what is
called the Darbar Room. From the S.
corridor steps descend to a platform in
the garden, where the band plays.
The garden of Parell is pretty, and
has at its W. extremity a tank, and on
its margin a terrace, which rises about
10 ft. above the water and the grounds.
Since 1880 the Governors have lived
principally at Malabar Point, and
Parell House has been very much
neglected.
The Victoria Station, terminus of
the Great Indian Peninsular Railway,
stands in a conspicuous place, in the
angle between the Esplanade Market
Road and the Boree Bandar Road, within
a few minutes walk of the Fort. It is
a vast building, elaborately ornamented
with sculpture and surmounted by a
large central dome; at the same time
its arrangements are found to be practi-
cally most convenient. The architect
was F. W. Stevens; the style is late
Gothic. It cost the Rly. Comp.
£300,000, and was completed in 1888.
It is one of the handsomest buildin
in Bombay, and the finest rly. sta. in
India.
Between the Mint and the Custom
House are the remains of the Castle,
covering 300 sq. ft. Only the walls
facing the harbour remain. There is
a flagstafi‘ here from which signals are
made to ships, and also a clock tower,
where a time signal-ball, connected by
an electric wire with the Observatory


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. Victoria Museum.
Gowalee Tank.
Native Theatre.
Christ Church.
Free Church.
European and Mohammedan Bury-
ing-grounds.
Gokaldas Hospital.
St. Xavier College.
To face p. 6.
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. School of Art.
. Marine Battalion Lines.
. Gaiety and Novelty Theatres.
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. Mint.
. Town Hall.
. St. Andrew’s Church.
. Lunatic Asylum.
. English Cemetery.





THE CUSTOM HOUSE—THE DOCKYARD 7
at Colaba, in which are valuable
arrangements for magnetic and other
observations, falls at 1 RM.
Adjoining the Castle is the Arsenal
(order for admittance must be obtained
from the Inspector of Ordnance). Be-
sides the usual warlike materials,
harness, tents, and other such neces-
saries for army equipment are made
here; and here also is an interesting
collection of ancient arms and old
native weapons of various descriptions.
The Custom House is a large, ugly
old building, a little to the S. of the
Town Hall and Cathedral. It was a
Portuguese barrack in 1665, and then a
quarter for civil servants. Forbes in
his Oriental Memoirs says that in 1770
he was there and could get no supper
or candles, so he sat on the roof read-
ing Shakespeare by moonlight. It
became a Custom House in 1802.
The entrance is always thronged with
natives. The landing-place E. is called
the Town Bandar. The Dockyard
extends hence to the Apollo Gate, with
a sea-face of nearly 700 yds.
The Dockyard—So early as 1673
the East India Company had been
compelled to build ships of war to
protect their merchantmen from the
attacks of the Maratha and Malabar
pirates. Surat, however, was the
chief station for building vessels, and
up to 1735 there were no docks in ex-
istence at Bombay. In that year a
vessel was built at Surat for the Com-
pany, and an ofiicer despatched from
Bombay to inspect it. Being much
pleased with the skill and intelligence
of the Parsi foreman, Lowji Naushir-
wanji ; and knowing that the Govern-
ment was desirous of establishing a
building-yard at Bombay, this officer
endeavoured to persuade him to leave
Surat and take charge of it. The Parsi,
however, had too much honesty to
accept this advantageous offer without
permission from his master to whom he
was enga ed. On its being granted, he
proceede to Bombay with a few arti-
ficers, and selected a site for the docks.
Next year Lowji was sent to the N. to

procure timber, and on his return he
brought his family with him. From
that day to this the superintendence
of the docks has been wholly in Lowji's
family; or, as it is well expressed by
a well-known writer, “The history of
the dockyard is that of the rise of a
respectable, honest, and hard-working
Parsi family.” Up to this time the
king’s ships had been hoveEdown for
repairs at Hog Island. About 1767
it became necessary to enlarge the yard.
In 1771 two grandsons of Lowji—
Framji Manikji and Jamshidji Bahm-
anji——entered the dockyard, working
as common carpenters at 12 rs. a
month. In 1774 Lowji died, leaving
only a house and a sum of money under
£3000. He bequeathed, however, to
his family a more precious legacy,
-—the remembrance and prestige of
his character for spotless integrity.
Manikji succeeded him as master-
builder, and Bahmanji was appointed
his assistant, and the two managed the
docks with increased success. They
built two fine ships of 900 tons, and
the men-of—war crippled in the severe
actions between Sir Edward Hughes
and Admiral Sufl'rein were docked at
Bombay. Bahmanji died in 1790, in
debt, and Manikji two years afterwards,
leaving but a scanty sum to his family.
Their sons succeeded them. Jam-
shidji in 1802 built the Cornwallis
fri ate for the East India Company,
an his success determined the Home
Government to order the construction
of ships for the Royal Nav at Bombay.
In conse uence of his ta ents, he was
permitte to have the sole supervision
as master builder. In 1805 the dock-
yard was enlarged; and in 1820 the
Minden, 74, built entirel by Parsis,
was launched, and about t e same time
the Cornwallis, 7 4, of 1767 tons. Subse-
qlllrently the W ellesley, 74, of 17 45 tons ;
t eMalabar,74; the Seringapatam, and
many other ships of war were built; in-
cluding the Ganges, 84 ; the Calcutta,
86; and the Miami, of 86 guns. All
these vessels were made of teak, and
have sufficiently proved the lastin
quality of that wood. It has been sai
that a teak shi will last from four
to fives times as ong as one of English


8 BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
oak. The old Lowji Castle, a merchant-
man of about 1000 tons, is known to
have made voyages for nearly three-
quarters of a century. Although the
doekyard has been of late years much
enlarged and furnished with the best
and newest machinery, no large ships
are built here. The enclosure contains
about 200 acres. There are 5 graving
docks, 3 of which together make one
large dock ; the Bombay Dock, 648 ft.
long, 57 ft. broad at top, and 34 ft. at
bottom, and with 12 ft. perpendicular
depth; the other 2 graving docks
make a single dock, 550 ft. long, 68 ft.
broad at top, and 46 ft. at bottom, and
with 26 ft. perpendicular depth. There
are also 4 building-slips opposite the
Apollo Pier, and on the SE. side of
the enclosure. Bombay is the only
important place near the open sea in
India where the rise of the tide is suffi-
cient to permit docks on a large scale.
At Bombay the highest spring tides
reach to 17 ft. ; but the usual height
is 14 ft.
The Sassoon Dock at Colaba is a
wet deck for the discharge of cargo
which has been purchased by Govern-
ment. The Bombay, Baroda, and G. I.
Railway runs to the S. of the dock,
and a siding is carried under the very
warehouses, so that in the monsoon
the goods are not wetted. The Bom-
bay, Baroda, and O. I. Railway joins
the G. I. P. at Dadar, so that, practi-
cally, both railways join the docks.
The Sassoon Deck, the first wet dock
made in India, is 650 ft. long, with an
average breadth of 250 ft. The depth
is 19 ft. at high water at neap tides,
and 22 ft. at spring tides. In one of
the warehouses at the W. end are 6
hydraulic cotton presses, which exert
a pressure of 800 tons on each bale.
They can press from 125 to 150 bales
a day. A bale weighs more than deal
but less than teak of the same dimen<
sions.
Prince’s Dock was commenced during
the Prince of Wales’s visit in 1875-
76. In excavating the ground the
remains of a submerged forest were
found at a depth of about 10 ft.
A

About 100 trees from 10 to 20 ft. long
were exhumed; the wood is red and
very hard. The dock extends over 30
acres, from which more than a million
cubic yards of earth were removed, and
is capable of containing 30 ocean
steamers. Adjacent to the docks is a
whole street of warehouses and ofliees.
The Victoria Dock, S. of the Prince‘s
Dock, occupies the space formerly taken
up by the Musjid and Nicol basins. It
covers 25 acres.
Both these decks are excavated on
the estate known as the Elphinstone
Reclamation, which has taken in from
the sea 276 acres, and has raised and
improved 110 acres. The Mody Bay
Reclamation is S. of the Elphinstone
estate. These two groups of work
have transformed the eastern foreshore
of the island from a mud swamp to a.
busy mercantile quarter worthy of the
capital of Western India.
Several hours might be spent in visit-
ing these vast rec amation works on
the E. shore of Bombay Island, from
the Custom House to Sewri on the N.
On these works and on those at Colaba
and Back Bay £5,000,000 sterling have
been expended.
The Dockyard of the P. 8t 0. Com-
pany is in the suburb of Mazagon.
The office is situated in the Mazagon
Dock Road, in a garden with a profusion
of flowering shrubs. The works were
finished in 1866. The dockyard covers
12 acres, and there are iron sheds for
18,000 tons of coal. The dock is 420
ft. long, and capable of receiving
vessels of deep draught. On its left,
looking towards the pier, is the Ice
Manufactory.
LIGHTHOUSES.
The Kennery Lighthouse, which is
12 m. to the S. of Bombay, has a.
fixed first-class cata-dioptric light in a.
tower 161 ft. above high-water mark.
It cost about 2 lakhs. There are 2
32-pounders on the island for signal-
ing. The foundation-stone was laid
by Sir Bartle Frere in 1867, and the
light was first shown the following
year.


CHURCHES' 9
A ridge or causeway which com-
mences a little S. of the Colaba Ceme-
tery, and is 3500 ft. long, leads to the
New or Prong Lighthouse, from the
Old Lighthouse, extinguished 1874.
This ri ge is dry at low water for 4
days before and 4 days after full moon.
Near the Old Lighthouse is a battery
of 9-in. guns, and N. of it are the lines
of the artillery and a European regi-
ment. The Prong Lighthouse is 150
ft. high, with walls 17 ft. thick at the
lowest story, and cost £60,000. The
revolving gear has to be wound up every
45 minutes, which employs 2 men. In
storms the waves rise 50 ft. up the sides,
and the tower vibrates. Before this
lighthouse was built dreadful ship-
wrecks took place here, and many of
the bodies of those drowned are interred
in Colaba Cemetery. It is interesting
to watch the light from the shore of
Back Bay as it flashes into full splen-
dour and then in a few seconds fades
into darkness. The light can be seen
to the distance of 18 m., and beyond
the lighthouse the shoal water extends
for a mile. It flashes every 10 seconds.
’ Another lighthouse takes the place
of the old Inner Light vessel.
Cnunorrns.
The Cathedral of St. Thomas stands
in the Fort, close to Elphinstone Circle.
It was built as a garrison church in
1718, and made a cathedral on the
establishment of the Sec of Bombay
in 1833, on which occasion the low
be] fry was converted into a high tower.
It is simple in Ian, and a mixture of
the classical an Gothic in style. The
chancel, added 1865, is a satisfactory
specimen of modern Early English.
There are some monuments here which
deserve attention,-—one by Bacon to
Jonathan Duncan, Governor for sixteen
years. It represents him receiving the
blessings of young Hindus. This had
reference to his successful efforts in
suppressing infanticide in certain dis-
tricts near Banal-es, and afterwards in
Kattywar, through the zealous and
able agency of Colonel Walker.
Amongst other monuments to be
noticed are that to Cap. G. N. Hardinge,
R.N., who died in 1808, in a brilliant

engagement when he took the frigate
La Piedmmm'm'c; that to Col. Burr,
who commanded at the battle of Kirkee;
and a third to Major Pottinger, who dis-
tinguished himself in the defence of
Hirat. The fountain in front of the
Cathedral was erected by Sir Cowasjee
Jehangir Readymoney, at a cost of
7000 rs.
The Memorial Church of St. John
the Evangelist at Calaba, consecrated
in 1858, consists of nave and aisles 138
ft. long, with a chancel 50 ft. long, and
a tower and spire 198 ft. high, con-
spicuous for some distance at sea. As
in the great church of Antioch in early
a es, and in St. Peter’s at Rome, the
a tar is at the W. end. The effect on
entering is good, owing to the length
and height of the building, the simpli-
city of the architecture, and the “ dim
religious light ” difl'used through the
stained-glass windows. The roof is
of teak. The first object remarked on
entering is the illuminated metal screen,
light and elegantly designed, and sur-
mounted by a gilt cross. S. of the main
entrance is the Baptistery, with a
large font and triplet window erected
by the congregation in memory of the
Rev. Philip Anderson, author of The
English in Western India.
At the W. end of the N. aisle is a
triplet window, erected to the memory
of General David Barr.
The arch of the chancel is 65 ft. high.
The pulpit was given by a member of
the congregation, the desk by the
officers of H.M.'s 28th Regt. on leaving
the country in 1864, in memory of
seven brother officers.
The brass altar candlesticks were
made in the School of Art at Bombay.
Behind the lectern is the Litany stool,
inscribed, “A Thank Offering from the
R. W. Fusiliers, 1869 A.D.” Thechoir
desks are supported by wrought-iron
stands, illuminated, and made in the
School of Art. The “memorial mar-
bles,” are of alternate colours of white,
red, yellow, and blue ; and beneath
them there runs the followin inscrip-
tion, painted on a blue groun :—
This Church was built in Memory of the
Officers whose names are written above, and


10
India
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONB
of the Non-Commissioned Officers and Private
Soldiers, too many to be recorded, who fell,
mindful of their duty, by sickness or by the
sword, in the Campaigns of Sind and Afghan-
istan, 1835-43 an.
All Saints’, the Ridge, Malabar Hill.
Christ Church, Byculla, was conse-
crated by Bishop Wilson in 1835. It
holds 500 people. There are here several
monuments and tombs of interest and
some monumental brasses.
St. Peter’s Church, Mazagon, has a
memorial window to the officers and
men drowned in the S.S. Carnatic.
St. Andrew’s Kirk, in Marine Street,
was built in 1818. In 1826 the steeple
was thrown down by lightning, and
rebuilt by John Caldecott.
The Free Church stands on the N. E.
side of Esplanade Cross Road.
The Roman Catholic Church, in
Medow Street, dates from the begin-
ning of last century. There is a bread-
fruit tree in the inner quadrangle.
MISSIONS.
The S.P.G., with Church in Kamati-
pura Road, near Grant Rd. Rly. Sta. ,
has 4 missionary clergy in the town,
and a branch of the Ladies' Association
working in the zenanas.
The C.M.S. (established in Bombay
since 1820), has charge of a Church and
large Schools for boys and girls at
Girgaon.
The Mission Priests of St. John the
Evangelist (Cowley Fathers) serve the
Church of St. Peter’s, Mazagon, and
have a Mission House and Schools for
boys and girls near it: also a native
lilt/[isslion and Orphanage in Babula Tank
oa .
The “All Saints'" Sisters (from
Margaret St.) have been working in
Bombay since 1878,and nurse the follow-
ing Hospitals: Euro can General,
Jamshidji, Pestoniji ama. They
have 2 High Schools for Girls, with
Boarding Schools: one in El hinstone
Circle called the Cathedral Gir s' School,

the other near St. Peter's, Mazagon.
Also St. J ohn's Orphanage for natives
(mostly foundlings) at Oomer Khadi.
Zenana Mission.
American Maratha. Mission, etc.
CEMETERIES.
European Cemetery, at Parell, was
formerly a Botanical Garden, opened
in 1830. It is a sheltered spot under
Flagstaff Hill, with trees on either side,
and was turned into a cemetery about
1867.
The Colaba Cemetery, beyond the
church, at the extreme point of the
promontory, is tolerably well kept, but
is no longer used
The Girgaon Cemeteries facing Back
Bay. The old European cemetery is
the most northerly, then comes the
Mohammedan burying- ground ; neither
of these is now in use.
To the S. is the ground set apart for
Hindu Oremations. Europeans who
desire to see the operation are allowed
to enter. To the SE. is the Scotch
Cemetery, now closed. ‘
The Towers of Silence stand upon
the highest point of Malabar Hill, 100
ft. above the sea. In order to see them
permission must be obtained from the
secretary to the Parsi Panehayat. Sir
J amshidji Jijibhai, at his own expense,
made the road which leads to the
Towers on the N. side, and gave
100,000 sq. yds. of land on the N. and
E. sides of the Towers.
Within the gateway of an outer
enclosure a flight of 80 steps mounts
up to a gateway in an inner wall.
From this point the visitor is accom-
panied by an official of the Panchayat,
and turning to the rt. comes to a
stone building, where, during funerals,
prayer is offered. From this point one
of the finest views of Bombay may be
obtained. To the l. are Sion, Sewri,
and Mazagon Hills, and between them
some 20 lofty chimneys of cotton mills
and other high buildings. Below, at
the foot of the hill, stretches a vast
grove of palms, in which no human
habitation is visible, though many are


TOWERS OF SILENCE
ll
concealed by the broad palm leaves.
On the rt. are seen in succession the
Victoria. Rly. Sta., the Cathedral, the
Government Offices, the Memorial
Church at Colaba, and the Prong Light-
house. Probably while the traveller is
looking at the view, a funeral will take
place. A bier will be seen carried up
the steps by 4 Nasr Salars, or “ Carriers
of the Dead,” with 2 bearded men
following them closely, and perhaps
100 Parsis in white robes walking 2 and
2 in procession. The bearded men who
come next the corpse are the only
persons who enter the Tower. They
wear gloves, and when they touch the
bones it is with tongs. On leaving the
Tower, after depositing the corpse on
the grating within, they proceed to
the purifying place, where they wash
and leave the clothes they have worn
in a tower built for that express pur-
pose. The P'arsis who walk in proces-
sion after the bier have their clothes
linked, in which there is a mystic
meaning. There is a model of one of
the Towers which was exhibited to the
Prince of Wales, and would probably
be produced to any visitor on his ask-
ing permission to see it. The towers
are 5 in number, cylindrical in shape,
and white-washed. The largest cost
£30,000, while the other 4 on an aver-
age cost £20,000 each. The largest
tower is 276 ft. round and 25ft. high.
At 8 ft. from the ground is an aperture
in the encircling wall about 51} ft. sq.,
to which the carriers of the dead ascend
by a flight of steps. Inside, the plan
of the building resembles a circular
gridiron, gradually depressed towards
the centre, in which is a well 5 ft. in
diameter. Besides the circular wall
which incloses this well there are 2
other circular walls between it and the
outside, with footpaths running upon
them; the spaces between them are
divided into compartments by radiating
walls from an imaginary centre. The
bodies of adult males are laid in the
outer series of compartments thus
formed, the women in the middle series,
and the children in that nearest the
well. They are laced in these grooves
quite naked, and) in half an hour the
flesh is so completely devoured by the

numerous vultures that inhabit the
trees around, that nothing but the
skeleton remains. This is left to bleach
in sun and wind till it becomes per-
fectly dry. Then the carriers of the
dead, gloved and with tongs, remove
the bones from the grooves and cast
them into the well. Here they crumble
into dust. Round the well are perfora-
tions which allow the rain-water or
other moisture to escape into 4 deep
drains at the bottom of the Tower, and
the fluid then passes through charcoal
and becomes disinfected and inodorous
before it passes into the sea. There is
a ladder in the well by which the
carriers of the dead descend if it be
requisite to remove obstructions from
the perforations. The dust in the well
accumulates so slowly that in 40 years
it rose only 5 ft. This method of inter-
ment originates from the veneration
the Parsis ay to the elements, and their
zealous en eavours not to pollute them.
Parsis respect the dead, but consider
corpses most unclean, and the carriers
are a separate and peculiar class who
are not allowed to mix in social inter-
course with other Parsis. Yet even
these men wear gloves and use tongs
in touchin the remains of a deceased
person, an purify themselves and cast
away their garments after every visit
to a tower. Fire is too much venerated
by Parsis for them to allow it to be
polluted by burning the dead. Water
is almost equally respected, and so is
earth; hence this singular mode of
interment has been devised. There
is, however, another reason. Zartasht
said-that rich and poor must meet
in death; and this saying has been
literally interpreted and carried out
by the contrivance of the well, which
is a common receptacle for the dust
of all Parsis, of Sir Jamshidiji and
other millionaires and of the poor
inmates of the Parsi Asylum. In
the arrangements of the vast area
which surrounds the Towers nothing
has been omitted which could foster
calm and pleasing meditation. You at
once arrive at the house of prayer, and
around is a beautiful garden full of
flowers and flowering shrubs. I-_Iere
under the shade of fine trees relatives


12
India
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
of the deceased can sit and meditate.
The height of the hill and the proximity
of the sea ensure always a cool breeze ;
and the view to the W. and S. over
the waters, and to the E. and N. over
the city, the islands in the harbour
and the distant mountains beyond, is
enchanting. The massive gray towers
and the thick woods about them are
very picturesque. Even the cypresses,
as the Parsis themselves say, taperin
upwards, point the way to heaven ; an
it is certain that the Parsis follow out
that thought and are firm believers in
the resurrection and the re-assemblage
of the atoms, here dispersed, in a
glorified and incorruptible body.
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.
Elphinstone College, removed from
Byculla in 1890, now occupies a large
building close to the Mechanics’ In-
stitute, from which it is separated by a
narrow street. The Elphinstone In-
stitution was founded as a memorial to
the Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, the
Governor of Bombay. In 1856 it was
divided into a High School (see below)
and this College for the higher educa-
tion of natives, who contributed up-
wards of 2 lakhs to endow professorships
in English, and the Arts, Sciences, and
Literature of Europe. The sum accumu-
lated to about 4 lakhs and a half, and
Government augments the interest by
an annual subscription of 22,000 rs.
In 1863-64 Sir CowasjceJchangir Ready-
money gave 1% lakhs for building pur-
poses. There are 16 senior scholarships,
and29 junior are competed for annually.
A certain number of undergraduates
who cannot pay the College fee are ad-
mitted free. In 1862 Sir Alexander
Grant, Bart, was Principal of the Col-
lege, and many distinguished scholars
have filled Professorships, as, for in-
stance, Mirza Hairat, who translated
Malcolm’s History of Persia. into Persian.
The building is in the mediaeval stylc,
and containslecturc-rooms, library, cons
tnining a portrait of Elphinstone by
Lawrence, :1 room for the Principal,
with one for the Professors, and
dormitories above for the resident stu-
gepts. The W. wing is the Record
I ce.

The New Elphinstone High School
is in Esplanade Cross Road, in front of
the W. face of St. Xavier’s College.
Sir Albert Sassoon contributed £1500
towards the cost of the building. It
is the great 'public school of Bombay,
and retained possession of the original
buildings on the Esplanade when the
College Department was separated to
form the Elphinstone College.
“ The object of this school is to fur-
nish a high-class and liberal education
up to the standard of the University
entrance examination, at fees within
the reach of the middle-class people of
Bombay and the Mufassil. It has
classes for the study of English, Mar-
athi, Guzerati, Sansorit, Latin, and
Persian." There are 28 class-rooms,
a hall on the first floor measuring
62 x 35 ft, and a Library. The build-
ing was designed by G. T. Molecey.
St. Xavier‘s College, near the W.
end of the Esplanade Road. This
Jesuit institution, which serves the
purpose of school as well as college,
grew out of the development of St.
Mary’s Institution and the European
R. C. Orphanage. The site for the
College was granted by Government in
1867.
Wilson College, for the general edu-
cation of young men, is close to Charni
Road Station.
The Alexandra College for Parsi
Ladies, in Kausji Patel Street in the
Fort, was founded by the late Mr.
Manikji Khurshidji, who was amongst
the first of the Parsi gentlemen to
travel in Europe. It was opened in
1863. The girls remain in some cases
to the age of 24, and are extremely
well instructed in history and geo-
graphy and the English and Guzerati
languages. They also embroider and
do needle-work exceedingly well. Per-
sons desirous of visiting the institution
could no doubt obtain permission.
Two High Schools for Girls, with
Boarding Schools (kept by the All
Saints’ Sisters: one in Elphinstone
Circle, called the Cathedral Girls'


HOSPITA LB, ETC.
13
School, the other near St. Peter’s,
Mazagon.
The Scotch Mission School at
Ambroli, together with the church, cost
£5000. There is adjacent a college for
youths, where Sanscrit and Persian are
well taught.
The School of Design was first
opened for pupils in 1857.- In 1877 a
handsome new building was erected on
the W. side of the Esplanade, near the
Gokaldas Hospital. Excellent draw-
ings and designs are made here, as well
as good pottery, arms, artistic work in
silver and copper, and decorative carving
in wood and stone. The buildings in
\Vestern India owe much of their
beauty to the work of students of this
institution.
150 yds. off, in sheds set apart for
the purpose, are the Art PotteryWorks,
where some beautiful designs purely
Indian in form and ornament have been
carried out. The ware resembles that
of Vallauris, near Cannes.
INSTITUTIONS—CHARITABLE AND
OTHERWISE.
The Royal Alfred Sailors’ Home, a
very solid-looking building in a con-
spicuous position close to the Apollo
Bandar, has accommodation for 20
officers, 58 seamen, and it is stated
that in case of emergency it could con-
tain 100 inmates. Officers have separ-
ate and superior quarters. Each man
pays 14 annas a day, for which he gets
breakfast, dinner, tea, with hot meat,
at 6 P.M., and supper, and the use of
the reading-room. The sculpture in the
front gable, representing Neptune with
nymphs and sea-horses, was executed
in Bath stone by Mr. Bolton of Chel-
tenham. His late Highness Khande
Rao Gaekwar gave 200,000 rs. towards
the cost of the building, to commemor-
ate the Duke of Edinburgh’s visit, and
the foundation-stone was laid in 1870
by the Duke.
The European General Hospital,* is
at the entrance to Boree Bandar Road,
close to Victoria Rly. Sta. Should
the traveller fall ill in Bombay, he
* Nursed by the “ All Saints’ " Sisters.

cannot do better than go to this hos-
pital, where he will receive the best
medical treatment.
The Pestonji Kama Hospital" for
Women and Children, a Gothic build-
ing in Cruikshank Road, is an institu-
tion worthy of attention.
Gokaldas Hospital, in Esplanade
Cross Road, can contain 126 patients,
and is generally full. The history of
this hospital is rather curious. Mr.
Rustamji Jamshidji had offered to give
£15,000 if Government would give a
site for a native hospital and contribute
£10,000 more, and if the municipality
would undertake to support the Institu-
tion. Then came the monetary crisis in
Bombay, and the afi'air would probably
have been suspended indefinitely, had
not Mr. Arthur Crawford, C.S.,
obtained from Gokaldas, then in his
last illness, a cheque for £15,000, and
induced Government to adhere to their
former intention. The value of the
institution is now acknowledged.
The Jamshidji Hospita1.*—This in-
stitution adjoins the Grant Medical
College. It has Parell Road to the W.,
and Babula Tank Road to the S. It
consists of a long low building with 2
wings, and contains 14 wards, holding
14 to 16 patients each. At Sir J am-
shidji’s request, one ward has been
assigned to Parsis; in the others all
castes, Brahmans, Dherhs, and Moham-
medans, are found together. They get
their food from separate cooks, but
Parsis and Mohammedans will take
it from a Christian cook, provided that
fowls, etc., are not strangled, but killed
in the Mohammedan fashion. In the
hall is a bronze statue of Sir Jamshidji,
a copy of one in the Town Hall. To
the W. of this hospital are the Ophthal-
mic Hospital, the Hospital for Incur-
ables, and huts for infectious diseases.
Disease is said to be more prevalent in
the cold weather than in the hot. A
large number of cases of accidents from
machinery in the mills are brought to
the J amshidji Hospital every year.
The Grant Medical College, in Parell


14
India
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
Road, was established in 1845, in
memory of Sir Robert Grant, Governor
of Bombay. The Principal is subordin-
ate to the Director of Public Instruc-
tion. There are 9 Professors, besides
4 teachers, who lecture in Marathi
and. Guzerati. There are 10 scholar-
ships, besides funds for medals. In
the class of the Professor of Materia
Medica there are sometimes as many as
130 students. The Museum is full of
curious things, lusus natures, snakes,
and other re tiles. The grounds cover
2 acres, an are made instructive by
planting in them all kinds of useful
trees and shrubs. This College turns
out a number of Indian physicians and
surgeons, who are gradually overspread-
ing India, and find lucrative employ-
ment in the native states. The
knowledge of medicine thns diffused
is one of the greatest blessings India
has derived from England.
A Convalescent Home in Colaba was
established by Mr. Merwanji Framji, a
benevolent Parsi gentleman, whose
name is inscribed on every pillar of the
building.
Sir Jamshidji Jijibhai’s Parsi
Benevolent Institution, in Rampart
Road, facing the Esplanade, was founded
in 1849 by Sir Jamshidji, who, with
Lady Avabai, his wife, set apart for the
purpose 3 lakhs of rupees and 25 shares
in the Bank of Bengal, to which the
Parsi Panchayat added 35 shares more.
The Government of India are the
trustees, and pay interest at 6 per cent
on the 3 lakhs. The income is divided
into 400 shares, of which 180 go for
the Boys' and Girls’ Schools in Bombay,
70 for those in Surat, and 150 for
charities for the poor.
The Jamshidji Dharmsala, not very
far off, contains about 200 small rooms
for families or individuals. There
is no light or ventilation, except
through the doorway and a hole in
the roof about 6 in. sq. There is
a Leper Hospital attached to the in-
stitntion.
Parsi Dharmsala, in the Gam Devi

Road, is passed on the approach to the
Towers of Silence from the S. It is
intended for poor Persian Parsis. The
building is a good and clean one, and
stands in an extensive garden, in which
is a tank. In this Irani Dharmsala.
are sometimes as many as 200 men,
women, and children. In the morning
the have tea and bread, at 11 A.M. rice
an curry, and at 5.30 P.M. a dinner
of meat and vegetables gratis. The
children are taught b a Persian
Mnnshi. Close to the ining-room is
a well of clear water, and a large airy
sleeping-room for men. A similar
dharmsala close by was erected at the
expense of Sir Cowasjee J ehangir Ready-
money, C.S.I., in commemoration of his
maternal grandfather in 1812.
At the S.E. foot of the hill on which
are the Towers of Silence is an Alms-
house for decayed Parsis of both sexes,
erected by the sons of the late Far-
dunji Sorabji Parak, Esq., in com-
memoration of their mother. Some of
the inmates are blind. In the centre
of the quadrangle are flowering shrubs,
and outside is a very large garden full
of fruit. The ghi and other comestibles
are kept in gigantic Chinese jars, big
enough to hold ’Ali Baba’s thieves.
These jars cost 2000 rs. The whole
charity does much credit to the muni-
ficenee of the Parsis.
The Workhouse adjoins the jail;
there are sometimes as many as 20
Europeans in it. They sleep in an
open shed, and are permitted to go out
in search of work.
House of Correction, the principal
prison in Bombay, is in the Clare Road,
Byculla. Sailors who refuse to work on
board their ships, and soldiers who
have committed civil offences are con-
fined here.
Pinjra Pol, or Infirmary for Animals,
in the centre of the native quarter.
This curious institution covers several
acres. In the 1st division are diseased
and aged cattle. In the 2d division
are goats, sheep, and asses. In the
3d are buffaloes, and in the 4th dogs,


LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC.
15
some of which are in a horrid state of
mange. The animals are all quiet
enough, except the dogs, who keep up a
considerable noise. This place is in the
quarter called Bholeshwar, “ Lord of the
Simple ” ; and the temple of the deity
so called, a form of Shiva, is within the
enclosure.
LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITU-
TIONS.
The Asiatic Society (in the Town
Hall), instituted in 1804 for the in-
vestigation and encouragement of
Oriental Arts, Sciences, and Literature.
The Bombay Geographical Society has
been amalgamated with it.
The Anthropological Society, estab-
lished in 1886 for the purpose of in
vestigating and recording facts relating
to the physical, intellectual, and moral
development of man, and more especi-
ally of the various races inhabiting the
Indian Empire.
The Natural History Society (Offices
and Museum at 6 Apollo Street),
formed in 1883 for the purpose of pro-
moting the study of Natural History
in all its branches.
CLUBS * 1
The Byeulla Club, Byculla.
The Bombay Club, 26 Esplanade
Road.
The Yacht Club, Apollo Bandar.
The Mechanics’ or Sassoon Institute,
in Rampart Row, founded by David
Sassoon and his son Sir Albert in 1870,
cost £15,000. Lectures are delivered
and prize medals awarded. Life-mem-
bers pay 150 rs., and members 6 rs.
per quarter. In the entrance-hall is a
statue of David Sassoon, by Woolner.
There is also a good Library. 2k
The Victoria Technical Institute
occupies the old building of the Elphin-
stone College in Byeulla, opposite the
Victoria Gardens.
1 *For further particulars, see Index and
Directory at the end.

STATUES, FOUNTAINS, Museums, arc.
Thestatue of Queen Victoria, by Noble,
near the Telegraph Office, is an object
of constant interest to the natives. It
is of white marble, and cost 182,443 rs.,
of which large sum 165,000 rs. was
given by H. H. the late Khande Rao
Gaekwar. The statue was uncovered
by Lord Northber in 1872, and Her
Majesty is represented seated. The
Royal Arms are in front of the pedes-
tal, and in the centre of the canopy is
the Star of India, and above the Rose
of England and Lotus of India, with
the mottoes “God and my Right”
and “Heaven’s Light our Guide" in-
scribed in four languages.
There is also an equestrian statue of
the Prince of Wales in bronze, on a
gray granite pedestal, by Sir Edgar
Boehm, opposite the Sassoon Institute.
It cost £11,000, and was presented
by Sir A. Sassoon to the city of
Bombay.
Between it and the Queen’s statue is
the Frere Fountain, a fine work, which
cost £9000.
In the garden of the Elphinstone
Circle, facing the Town Hall, are statues
of Lord Cornwallis, under a cupola, and
of Lord Wellesley, by Bacon, much
injured by the effects of the weather.
On the edge of the Maiden and close
to the Public Works' Secretariat is a
statue of Sir Richard Temple.
The Museum, on the Parell Road, a
handsome building, stands about 100
yds. back from the road. Until 1857
the collection, which is not an import-
ant one, was kept in the Fort Barracks,
but on Sir G. Birdwood being appointed
curator by Lord Elphinstone, he raised
a subscription of a lakh for building
this Museum. Sir B. Frere laid the
first stone in 1862, and Government
com leted the building in 1871. The
0100 Tower in front of it was erected
by Sir Albert Sassoon. There is a fine
statue of Prince Albert here by Noble.
The Victoria Gardens, in which the
Museum stands, have an area of 34
acres, and are prettily laid out. The
beautiful Bougainvillea is very con-
spicuous. On the extreme E. is a


16
India
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
Menagerie and Deer Park. The band
plays here twice aweek, and it is a great
resort for the citizens. The municipal-
ity keep up the gardens at a cost of
10,000 rs. yearly.
MARKETS.
The best time for visiting the Markets
is early in the morning, about 7 o’clock,
when they are thronged. with all sorts
and conditions of men and women in
the brightest and most picturesque cos-
tumes.
The Crawford Market stands in
Market Road, which is approached from
Hornby Row, and is about 1* m. N. of
Watson’s Hotel. This market was
founded by Mr. Arthur Crawford, C.S.,
Municipal Commissioner from 1865
to 1871. (This able ol'iicer got the
Slaughter Houses, which at the com‘
mencement of his term of office were
near the market, removed to Bandora
in Salsette.) The market consists of a
Central Hall, in which is a drinking-
fountain given by Sir Cowasjee J ehangir
Readymoney, surmounted by a Clock
Tower, 128 ft. high. To the right is
a wing, 150 ft. by 100 ft., in which are
fruit and flowers, and on the left is
another wing, 350 ft. by 100 ft., for
spices and vegetables. The whole is
covered with a double iron roof. The
ground is paved with flag-stones from
Caithness. “In that collection of
handsome and spacious halls . . . fish,
flesh, vegetables, flowers, fruit, and
general commodities are vended in
separate buildings all kept in admir-
able order and cleanliness, and all open-
ing upon green and shady gardens”
(Edwin Arnold). The stalls in which
the leaves of the Piper betel are sold
should be noticed. These leaves are
called pan, and the betel-nut is called
sltpari. The leaves are spread with
lime, and the fruit of the Areca palm
is wrapped in them. These leaves are
chewed by the natives, and make the
lips and the saliva red and the teeth
black. There are many kinds of plan-
tains or bananas, but the best are short,
thick, and yellow. The best oranges
are those from Nagpur, and the best
grapes are from Aurangabad. The black

grape, called Habshi (the Abyssinian), is
the most delicious, and the best white
grape is the Sahibi. The mangoes come
in in May, and are amongst the finest
fruit in the world: two or three iced
form a delicious adjunct for breakfast.
The best are grown about Mazagon;
the kind most esteemed is called the
“Alphonse ” ; large numbers of an in-
ferior quality come from Goa. The
Purnmelow, the Citrus demmana, is
particularly fine in Bombay, very cool-
ing and wholesome, but somewhat
astringent. The Bombay onions are
famous. The Beef Market is built of
iron. The paving-stones were brought
froin Yorkshire. The Fish Market is
at the end of the Mutton Market. The
turtles come from Karachi in Siud.
The oysters are of moderate size and
well flavoured. The Palla fish, gener-
ally about 2 ft. long, the salmon of
India, is excellent. Its flesh is light
coloured, and has many troublesome
bones. The best fish of all is the pom-
flet, or pomfret, called Sargutali, the
black kind being called Hnlwa. This
is a flat fish, about the size of a large
flounder. The best are caught at Vera-
wal ;- they are very cheap and whole-
some. The Surma, with projecting
knobs, are not equal to the English
flounder. The Bhni Machchhi, or
mullet, are fairly good. The guard-
fish, Datah, long' and very thin, are
excellent, but the flesh has a greenish
colour. The Bombil, called by the
English Bommelo and Bombay duck,
is a glutinous fish, very nice when
fresh, and much used when salted and
dried. Near the fountain, with its
beautiful shrubs, are seats for loungers.
There is also a Coffee House, where
servants congregate, and which clears
1200 rs. a year. On the S. side is the
Poultry Market, where fowls, ducks,
turkeys, snipe, curlew, teal, and occa-
sionally fiorican may be purchased
when in season,-—the last excellent.
This market cost over 1,100,000 rs.
The crowd in the Meat and Fish Mar-
kets early in the morning is dense and
the hubbub deafening.
The Cotton Market is held near the
tramway terminus at Colaba. It is a


INDUSTRIAL ARTS AND MANUFACTURES, ETC.
17
sight worth seeing. 4,000,000 cwts. are
annually exported, and half that amount
is made use of in the Bombay spinning-
mills, which number nearly a hundred.
The Nul Market, between Parell and
Duncan Road, supplies a large part of
Bombay, and is generally immensely
crowded. Men and women may be seen
purchasing opium, and the women ad-
mit that they give it to their infants.
The Pedder Markets at Mazagon are
in the middle of a garden.
INDUSTRIAL Anrs AND ll/IANU-
FACTURES.
In Bombay there are nearly 3000
jewellers of the different Indian nation-
alities of the Presidency who find con-
stant and lucrative employment. One of
the most active industries is the manu-
facture of brass and copper pots and
other utensils. “The Copper Bazaar,
opposite the Mombadevi Tank, is the
busiest and noisiest, and one of the
most delightful streets.” 1 The black-
wood carving of Bombay is famous,
and sandal-wood and other carving is
chiefly carried on here, also inlay
work; indeed the term “Bombay
Boxes” includes sandal-wood carving
as well as inlay work. Tortoise-shell
carving is a specialité, also lacquered
turnery. Gold and silver thread is
manufactured and used for lace, and
Bombay embroidery is much prized.
The Bombay School of Pottery (see
above) we owe to the exertions of Mr.
Geo. Terry, who has developed two
original varieties of glazed pottery there.
Cotton. —The development of cotton-
spinning during the last 20 years is
remarkable. In 1870 there were 10
mills in the Island of Bombay, em-
ploying some 8000 hands; there are
now 70 employing more than 59,000
hands, and consuming annually about
2,227,000 cwts. of cotton.
The traveller who is at all fond of
the picturesque is strongly recom-
mended not to leave Bombay without
1 Sir G. Birdwood's Industrial Arts of India,
which see for further particulars.
[India] ti

visiting the Native Quarter. The
streets and bazaars are narrow and
tortuous, but clean and bright in the
extreme. Some of the houses are
remarkably fine as works of art, and
display undoubted Portuguese influ-
ence. Their fronts are covered with
carving, and in some cases they have
projecting stories supported upon ela-
borately sculptured corbels. Here and
there are mosques and Hindu temples
gaudin painted. The streets teem with
life. Sir Edwin Arnold writes of them:
“A tide of Asiatic humanity ebbs and
flows up and down the Bhendi bazaar,
and through the chief mercantile
thoroughfares. Nowhere could be seen
a play of livelier hues, a busier and
brighter city life. Besides the endless
crowds of Hindu, Guzerati, and Maratha
people coming and going—some in gay
dresses, but most with next to none
at all—between rows of grotesquely
painted houses and temples, there are
to be studied here specimens of every
race and nation of the East: Arabs
from Muscat, Persians from the Gulf,
Afghans from the northern frontier,
black, shaggy Beluchis, negroes of
Zanzibar, islanders from the Maldives
and Laccadives, Malagashes, Malays,
and Chinese throng and. jostle with
Parsis in their sloping hats, with
Jews, Lascars, fishermen, Rajpoots,
Fakirs, Europeans, Sepoys and Sahibs."
In the Bhendi Bazaar are the Arab
Stables, Well worth a visit in the early
morning, not only for the sake of seeing
some of the finest horses in the East,
but to see the Arabs themselves who
bring them to Bombay for sale.
For the most part the Hindu Temples
in Bombay are quite modern ; but at
the same time they are picturesque and
particularly striking to a stranger who
has not been in Bombay before. Of
these the most important is
The temple of Valkeshwat “Sand
Lord,” on the W. side of Malabar Hill,
close to Malabar Point. Throngs of
Hindus will be met coming from it,
their foreheads newly coloured with
the sectarial mark. The legend says
0


18
Indm
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
that Rama, on his way from Ayodhya
(Oudh) to Lanka (Ceylon), to recover
his bride Sita, carried off by Ravana,
halted here for the night. Lakshman
provided his brother Rama with a new
Lingam direct from Benares every
night. This night he failed to arrive
at the expected time, and the im-
tient Rama made for himself a
ingam of the sand at the spot. When
the one from Benares arrived it was
set up in the temple, while the one
which Raina. had made, in after ages,
on the arrival of the Portuguese, sprang
into the sea from horror of the bar-
barians. There is a small but very
picturesque tank here, adorned with
flights of steps, and surrounded by
Brahmans’ houses and shrines. This
spot well deserves a visit; a traveller
will nowhere in India see a more typical
specimen of the better class of Hindu
town architecture. It, too, is not with-
out its legend. Rama thirsted, and
there being no water here, he shot an
arrow into the earth, and forthwith
appeared the tank, hence called Vana-
tirtha, “Arrow-Tank.”
A Temple of less importance is the
Dwarkanath’s Temple, close to the
Esplanade, on the right-hand side of
the road that leads to Parell, and a little
N. of the Framji Kausji Institute,
which is on the opposite side of the
road.
Entering by a side door on the N.,
the visitor finds himself in a room
40 ft. sq. with a silver door at the end
7 ft. high, which hides from view the
principal idol. There are many images
and paintings of Krishna and Radha,
his favourite mistress.
There is a group of Mahalukshmee
Temples at Breach Candy, and others
in the native quarter around the tanks
of Mombadcml and Gowalia.
Shooting.—-Tigers and panthers are
rather numerous in the Konkan, and
may be found occasionally in Salsette.
At the hill-fort of Tungarh, about
20 in. from Bombay, tigers are occasion-
ally to be found, but it is difficult to get
accommodation there, as there are only
one or two huts, and horses picketed

outside are likely to be killed during
the night. Newcomers should en-
deavour to go with some experienced
sportsman, by whom all the arrange-
ments should be made. Snipe are
numerous on the E. side of Bombay
Harbour in Panwell Creek and other
places. At the Vehar Lake and Tanna
and close to Narel wild duck, snipe,
hares, and partridges are to be found.
At places in Guzerat some of the finest
quail, snipe, and duck-shooting in
India is to be obtained.
Railways, Tramways, and Steanw'rs,
—The terminal stations of the tram-
ways and of the Bombay, Baroda, and
Central India Railway are at Colaba,
5 In. S. of Watson’s Hotel, but there
is a station much closer, and nearly due
W. of Watson’s Hotel, called Church-
gate Station, whence passen ers can start
for any places reached by t e B. B. and
C. I. line. Those who are living in the
northern suburbs will go of course
from the Byculla Station, or from the
Grant Road Station, according to their
destination.
Sion'rs IN THE VICINITY or BOMBAY.
(l) Elephants. is asmall island about
6 m. from the Fort of Bombay. For
visiting this remarkable place steam
launches1 canbehired at Apollo Bandar,
and make the passage in about 1 or 1§
hrs., or a bandar-boat may be hired
at from 3 to 5 rs. In this case the
length of the passage will depend on
wind and tide. Or, if living near Maza-
gon, the traveller may hire a boat or
engage a steam launch from the pier
there. The boat will pass close to
Butcher’s Island, which is 3 In. nearly
due E. from Mazagon Dock. Persons
coming from sea with infectious dis-
eases, such as smallpox, are placed in
quarantine at this island. The view
in this part of the harbour is beautiful.
To the N. is Salsette Hill, otherwise
called the Neat’s Tongue, at Trom-
bay, which is 1000 ft. above sea-level.
1 Consult Messrs. T. Cook 62 Son. Their
steam launch makes the excursion several
times a week, and makes other excursions in
the harbour.


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EXCURSION ‘1‘0 ELEPHANTA
19
The ruins of an old Portuguese chapel
at Trnbah in Trombay are at a height
of 324 ft. The highest point of Ele-
phanta is 568 ft. There is another hill
400 ft. high to the left of the Caves as
you approach them.
Elephanta is called by the natives
Gha'rapum' (“the town of the rock,”
or “ of purification," according to Dr.
Wilson)—according to the Rev. J. Ste-
venson, Gampun', “the town of exca—
vations." The caves are called Lenen
(Lena) by the natives, a word used
throughout India and Ceylon for these
excavations, most probably on account
of the first of them being intended for
hermitages of Buddhist ascetics. The
island is covered with low corinda
bushes. It consists of two long hills,
with a narrow valley between them.
About 250 yards to the right of the old
landingplace, at the S. end of the
island on the rise of one of the hills,
and not far from the ruins of a Portu-
guese building, was a mass of rock, out
into the shape of an elephant, from
which the place derives its European
name. In September 1814 its head
and neck dropped off, and in 1814 the
then shapeless mass was removed to
Bombay, and may now be seen in the
Victoria Gardens.
The modern landing-place N. of the
island is not a very convenient one.
It consists of a rather slippery pier of
concrete blocks. The caves are distant
about § m., and are approached by easy
steps. There is a bungalow at the
entrance.
The time when these caves were ex-
cavated can only yet be guessed at,
but it is generally supposed that it
must have been some time between the
8th and 12th cents. A.D. The dis-
integration of the rock, since the caves
were first described by Niebuhr, and
even during the last 25 years, has been
very considerable.
The entrance into the temple is
between two massive pillars, forming
three openings, hewn out of a rock re-
sembling porphyry, overhung by brush-
wood and wild shrubs. The whole exca-
vation consists of three principal parts :
the great temple itself, which is in the
centre, open on three sides, and two

smaller chapels, standing back one on
each side of the great temple, but not
perceived on approaching it. They are
reached by two narrow miniature passes
in the hill, one on each side of the grand
entrance, at some distance from it. The
side fronts are exactly like the principal
one: all three being hollowed out of the
solid rock, and each consisting of two
huge pillars with two pilasters, one on
each side. The two wings of the temple
have no covered passage to connect
them with it.
The left side of the great cave is 130
ft. 8 in. in length, while the right side is
only 128 ft. 4 in., measuring from the
chief entrance to the farthest end.
Irregularitiesof this kind are to be found
in every other part, although the general
appearance is that of perfect regularity.
The breadth is 130 ft. from the eastern
to the western entrance. It rests on
26 pillars (8 of them now broken) and
16 pilasters ; neither the floor nor the
roof being in one plane, it varies in
height from 17% to 15 ft. The plan is
regular, there being eight pillars and
pilasters in a line from the N. entrance
to the S. extreme of the temple, and
the same number from the E. to the W.
entrances. The only striking deviation
from this regularity in the chief temple
is the small square excavation that is
seen rt. on going up the temple ; it
occupies the place of four pillars and
of the intermediate space enclosed be-
tween them, as if a veil had been drawn
around them, and the spot so enclosed
divided from the rest of the temple.
This is the Lingam Shrine. It is 19% ft.
square, with four doors facing difi‘erent
ways. Around this shrine on the out-
side are a number of large figures repre-
senting doorkeepers, who lean on small
demons. The Lingam is a conical stone
2 ft. 10 in. in diameter, the emblem of
reproduction, and isworshipped on great
occasions by crowds of devotees. At
the farthest extremity of the cave there
are two small excavations facing each
other, the one on the right, the other on
the left; their use is not well ascer-
tained; they were probably employed
for keeping the holy utensils and offer-
ings. The pillars, which all appear
to run in straight lines parallel to each


20
I nd’ia
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
other, and at equal distances, are crossed
by other ranges running at right angles
in the opposite direction ; they are
strong and massive, of an order remark-
ably well adapted to their situation and
the purpose which they are to serve.
The Great Cave at Elephanta is what
the Hindus calla Shiva Lingam Temple,
a class of sacred buildings very common
in S. and Central India. Many of the
Brahmans in Bombay will, however,
not acknowledge its claim to this
honour. They and some other natives
maintain that this cave and all the
other excavations around are the works
of the sons of Pandu, who constructed
them while wandering about in banish-
ment. They consider that these ex-
cavations are works far too mighty for
mortals to have constructed. The
great cave is visited bycrowds of Hindus,
especially of the Banyan caste, on the
great festivals of Shiva.
Three-faced Bust, or Trimurti.—The
chief of the mural figures is the im-
mense three-faced bust, 19 ft. in height,
at the far end of the Great Cave, facing
the N. entrance. It is the representa-
tion of Shiva, who is the leading char-
acter in all the groups of the eaye. The
front face is Shiva in the character of
Brahma, the creator ; the E. face (spec-
tator’s l.) is Shiva in the character of
Rudra, the destroyer ; and the W. face
(spectator’s rt.) has generally been con-
sidered to be Shiva in the character of
Vishnu, the preserver, holding a lotus
flower in his hand.
The Arddlmnarishwar, or half-male
lefemale Divinity in the first com-
partment to the E. of the central figure
(spcctator’s 1.) represents Shiva, 16 ft.
9 in. high, in his character of Arddhan-
arishwar. The right half of the figure
is intended to be that of a male, and
the left that of a female, and thus to
represent Shiva as uniting the two
sexes in his one person. The same
tradition is represented in a carving at
the caves at adami. Such a mani-
festation of Shiva is described in the
Puranas. The bull on which two of
the hands of the fi re lean, and on
which it is supposedll to ride, is called
Nandi, a constant attendant on Shiva.
Brahma, on his lotus throne, supported

by five swans, and with his four faces,
is exhibited on the right of the figure.
He has a portion of all these faces
visible. On the left, Vishnu is seen
riding on what is now a headless Garuda,
a fabulous creature, half man half eagle.
Above and in the background are found
a number of inferior gods and sages of
the Hindus. Indra, Lord of the Firma-
ment, appears mounted on an elephant.
In the compartment to the W. of the
Trimurti are two gigantic figures of
Shiva and Parbati, the former 16 ft.
high, the latter 12 ft. 4 in. Shiva has
a high cap, on which the crescent and
other Lingam symbols are sculptured,
and from the top of it rises a cup or
shell which is a three-headed figure
representing the Gunga proper, the
Yamuna, and Saraswati, which three
streams unite at Prayag, or Allahabad,
and form the Ganges. According to a
well-known Hindu legend, the Ganges
flowed from the head of Shiva. The
god is standing, and has four arms, of
which the outer left rests on a dwarf,
who seems to bend under the weight.
In the dwarf’s right hand is a cobra,
in his left a cham'i ; from his neck
hangs a necklace, the ornament of
which is a tortoise. On Shiva’s right
are several attendants, and above them
Brahma, sculptured much as in the
compartment on the right of the Tri-
murti. Between Brahma and Shiva is
Indra on his elephant Airavatah, which
appears to be kneeling.
Marriage of Shiva and Parbati is a
sculptured group (greatly damaged) at
the end of one of the W. aisles. The
position of Parbati 011 the right of Shiva
shows that she is his bride ; for to stand
on the right of her husband, and to eat
with him, are privileges vouchsafcd to
a Hindu wife only on her wedding-day.
In the corner, at the right of Parbati,
is Brahma, known by his four faces,
sitting and reading the sacred texts
suited to the occasion. Above, on
Shiva’s left, is Vishnu. Among the
attendants on the right of Parbati is
one bearing a vessel, supposed to be
filled with sugar-plums, as is the cus-
tom still in Bombay on such occasions.
Behind the bashful goddess is a priest,
who is pushing her forward.


F
nxcbnsron T0 ELEPHANTA
Birth of Ganesh, Sliiva’s eldest son,
is a sculptured group at the end of one
of the E. aisles. Shiva and Parbati are
seated together, with groups of male
and female inferior divinities showering
down flowers from above, the rock being
cut into various shapes to represent the
clouds of Kailas, Shiva’s heaven. Be-
hind Shiva and Parbati is a female
figure carrying a child on her hip, from
which it has been supposed that the
face represents the birth of Ganesh
or Ganpati, afterwards the elephant-
headed god of wisdom.
Ravam attempting to remove Kailas.
—The visitor must now face completely
round, and look to the N. instead of
the S., and, advancing a few paces, he
will come in front of the sixth com-
partment, which is to the right of the
eastern entrance. Here Ravana, the
demon king of Lanka, or Ceylon, is
attempting to remove Kailas, the
heavenly hill of Shiva, to his own
kingdom, in order that he may have
his tutelary deity always with him,
'for Ravana was ever a worshipper of
Shiva. Ravana has 10 heads and arms,
and is with his back to the spectator.
Shiva is seen in Kailas, with Pal-bati
on his right, and votaries and Rishis
in the background. The legend runs
that Ravana shook Kailas so much
that Parbati was alarmed, whereupon
Shiva pressed down the hill with one
of his toes on the head of Ravana, who
remained immovable for 10,000 years.
Daksha’s sacrifice destroyed—The
visitor must now cross over to the
Opposite side, passing the Lin gam shrine,
in order to arrive at the corresponding
compartment on the W. to that just
described on the E. Here is repre-
sented the sacrifice of Daksha, a legend
very famous in Hindu mythology,
which is twice depicted at Ellora, and
more than once at the Amboli caves in
Salsette. Daksha, a son of Brahma,
born from the thumb of his right hand
for the purpose of peopling the world,
had 60 daughters, of whom 27 are the
nymphs of the lunar asterisms. One
of them, named Sati or Durga, married
Shiva, and 17 were married to Kasyapa,
and were the mothers of all created
beings. On one occasion Daksha began

21
a sacrifice according to the ancient
Vaidik ritual, and as the gods of the
Vedas alone were invited, Shiva and
his wife were not asked to attend. Sati
went, nevertheless, unbidden, and being
badly received, threw herself into the
fire, whereupon Shiva made his appear-
ance in his most terrific form as Vim
Bhadra, which manifestation of the
god here forms the principal figure of
the group. He dispersed the gods
and other attendants of the sacrifice,
and seizin Daksha with one hand, de-
capitated rim with another, while in
a third he held a cup, into which
spouted the blood. The head was
hacked to pieces; but when Shiva’s
wrath was appeased, he put the head
of a ram on Daksha‘s body, thus keep-
ing him ever in mind of the power of
his decapitator. The whole group
refers to the contest between the
followers of the ancient Hindu ritual
and the worshippers of Shiva, which
latter prevailed.
Bhairava.—Nearer the entrance of
the cave, on the same side, is another-
compartment. Here Shiva appears in
his terrific form of Bhairava, which he
assumed to outdo the incarnation of
Vishnu as Narsingh, the man-lion.
Above is a very perfect Ganesh with
elephant head. Bhairava has eight
arms, which are all broken but one.
Shiva as an Ascetic, the last group, is
to the left of the grand entrance. Here
Shiva appears as a Yogi, and the figure
so much resembles Buddha that many
describers of the cave, before Erskine,
thought it to be that personage. The
figure has the remains of two arms,
which appear to have rested on his lap.
It is seated on a lotus, the stalk of which
is supported by two figures below.
The W. wing, op osite the Lingam
chapel first describe , and across a court
to the W., is a small excavation in the
face of the hill dedicated to Ganesh,
who is seated at the S. extremity with
a company of Shiva’s attendants. The
portico of the shrine is ornamented
with a good deal of sculpture.
The E. wing is approached by a few
steps, flanked by sculptured lions, lead-
ing up to a small Lingam chapel, in
which are no figures.


22
India
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
Sumalemenmry Excavations. -Round
the hill, a little to the S., are two other
excavations fronting the E. These are
also Lingam shrines, with Dwarpals
scul tured outside. On ahill opposite
to t e Great Cave an excavation has
been commenced but without much
progress having been made. Since this
some steps have been unearthed sup-
posed by some to be the original ones
leading to the sea.
Mr. Burgess’s account of the caves,
which is the best, was published in
Bombay, 1871.
Hydraulic Dock—From Elephanta
to the Hydraulic-Lift Dock at Hog
Island is 11 m. Hog Island is in reality
joined to the mainland by swampy
ground. There is dee water, about 8
fathoms, close to the ock. The Lift
Dock was constructed in 1886 by Mr.
Edwin Clark, and the cost was£350,000.
It is now used by the P. 8: 0. Co.
under an agreement with Government.
(2) 1 Vehar Lake (drive 15 m.) from
Bombay, or better by G. I. P. Rly.
to Bhandup, 17 m. Arrange with the
station—master at Bhandup beforehand
to have a pony ready, and canter to
the lake in half an hour, turning to
the rt. at a signpost, marked 3 m. to
Pawe, a village belonging to a Parsi,
amidst 16,000 mango trees. From the
gateway or Darwazah of Pawe it is 2
m. to the lake ; the jungle is very thick
part of the way. The lake covers 1400
acres, and measures 2 X 15; m. ; it was
made by Mr. Conybeare, C.E., by
damming up the Garpur river. It
cost £373,650 with the connecting
pipes, and can supply 8,000,000 gal-
lons of water a day. The embankment
is 30 ft. broad and 30 ft. above the
water. The water is 75 ft. deep, of
which 50 ft. are available for the
supply of Bombay and 25 ft. are kept
for settling. Fish are numerous, par-
ticuarly singam or “cat-fish." There
are also many conger-eels, which grow
8 or 9 ft. long. There are many teal
on the lake, but it is very difficult to
get within shot, except in the very
l 1 Excursions 2, B, 4 may all be done in one
( ay.
early morning. Tigers are scarce now,
but many have been killed there. One,
shot by Mr. Robertson, 0.8., had killed
16 persons.
The Twist Lake, which lies 2 In. to
the N., was formed in 1872, at a cost
of £40,000, and water is carried thence
to the top of Malabar Hill. 2 m. N.
are the Kanhari Caves.
(3) Montpezir Caves (Mandapesh-
war).—B. B. and C. I. Railway to Bor-
wali Station, 22% m., thence ride 1 111.
Write beforehand to the station-master
for a pony and coolie to carry tiifin-
basket. Good clean waiting-room at
Borwali. Leaving the station, proceed
N., turning at about 200 ds. t0 the 1.
At the caves is a mine Portuguese
church, with a cross close by. Round
the N. E. corner of the church are
three caves hewn out of the rock, which,
judging from the pillars, may be of the
9th century. The cave on the E. is
57 ft. 8 in. x 181} ft. There is no carv-
ing inside, but there are two pillars in
the facade shaped somewhat like the
Ionic. Adjoining this cave to the W.
is a stone basin for water, of which
there is a good supply, said never to
fail, and this may e one reason why
the Portuguese built here. The next
cave is 27 ft. 3 in. X 14 ft. 9 in. In
the W. wall is a group of figures very
much mutilated. The princlpal figure
has four arms, and is said to be Bhim,
but is probably Shiva, with 25 Ganas.
In the corner of the outside wall is
half a door of the church, of teak, with
two saints carved on it. The third or
W. cave is locked, but the key can be
obtained from the priest 2 m. 03. It
was probably a vihara cave in which
10 or 12 hermitslived, butwas converted
into a chapel in 1555 A.D. In the N.
part of the E. wall, upside down, is the
stone originally over the entrance
door, inscribed with the date 1555.
At the NJV. are pillared partitions
leading to cells, and on the W. side are
two pilasters and four pillars about 12
ft. high, with tapering shafts and angular
capitals. To the S., on an eminence,
is a round tower (40 ft. high), which
the priest calls a Calvarium. The

staircase is on the outside, and in


CAVE TEMPLES OF KANHARI
23
places there are apparently embrasures
for guns. The people about say it was
used as a tower of defence. There is a
good view from the top over the plain ;
and about 4 m. off to the E. is the hill
in which are the
(4) Gave Temples of Kanhari (Ken-
'M'ry).—These caves are all excavated in
the face of a single hill in the centre
of the island of Salsette,_and are about
5 m. by a bridle path from Borwali
Station on the B. B. and C. I. Railway,
2 m. N. of the dam of the Tulsi lake,
and 6 m. from the DB. at Tanna (see
Rte. 1). There are 109 of these caves ;
but though more numerous, they are
pronounced by Mr. Ferg'usson1 to be
much less interesting than those at
Ajanta, Ellora, or Karli. The same
authority considers this series of caves
to be “one of the most modern of the
Buddhist series in India, and that the
greater part of them were executed
by a colony of Buddhists, who may
have taken refuge here after being
expelled from the continent, and who
tried to reproduce the lost Karli in
their insular retreat.” He ranks them
as follows: “ Those in the ravine, in
the 4th and 5th century A.D.; those
on the S. side, under the brow of the
hill, with those on each side of the Great
Cave, a century later ; then the Great
Cave; and lastly, the unfinished one,
which is the first the traveller ap-
proaches by the usual route, and which
dates about the 9th or 10th century
AD" or is even still more recent."
Heber conjectures that the Kanhari
caves are older than those of Elephants,
to which he is “ not disposed to assign
any great degree of antiquity ;" but
Caunter2 speaks of ‘ ‘sixteen or eighteen
hundred years, the latest probable date
assigned even by Bishop Heber himself
to these excavations.” However this
may be, it is at least certain, that, to
use Heber’s words, “the beautiful situa-
tion of these caves, their elaborate
carving, and their marked connection
With Buddha and his religion, render
them every way remarkable." 3

The path to them is narrow, and winds
along the sides of rocks, but it is quite
possible to proceed along it in palkis
or on horseback. Most of the sur-
rounding hills are covered with jungle,
but the one in which are the caves is
nearly bare, its summit being formed
by one large rounded-mass of compact
rock, under which a softer stratum has
been denuded by the rains, forming
natural caves, which, sli htly improved
by art, were appropriate as cells. The
road which ascends the hill leads to a
platform in front of the great arched
cave, where are several mounds of
masonry. The largest of them was
opened by Dr. Bird, and many relics
and inscriptions on copper were found.
This is the first stage of ascent to the
caves, which consist of six stories, on
the ledges of the mountains, connected
with each other by footsteps cut in the
rock. The ascent is gradual until
within a few hundred yards of the
southernmost, when the )ath becomes
steep and rugged, and so 0 osely shaded
with shrubs and lofty trees as to conceal
every appearance of the caves until the
traveller is actually in front of them.
In the first which comes in view two
massive columns, of the same order as
those at Elephants, support a plain
solid entablature, above which an
oblong square is hollowed out. Within
are two anterooms, and beyond, an
unfinished chamber, 26 ft. deep. The
front screen has three doors, and three
windows over them, and the partition
between the second and the inner
chamber has likewise three doors, and
over the centre one a large 0 en arch,
rising nearly to the roof. Sa t thinks
that the workmen began this cave
from the top, and worked downwards.
There are no figures or carvings here,
and the details are of little interest.
Fergusson supposes it to be the latest
excavation in the hill, and to date in
the 9th or 10th century A.D., or even
later. ‘
From this a vihara, consisting of a
long irregular vcrandah with cells at
1 Rock-cut Temples of India, p. 34.
2 Oriental Annual, p. 273.
3 A good account of the Kanhari caves is
given by Salt, p. 47, vol. i., Transactions of
the Literary Society of Bombay, which i here
followed, corrected by Mr. Burgess's account
in Cave Temples of India.


24
I ndia
BOMBAY AND ENVI RONS
the back extends in a direction from
S.W. to N.E. to the Great Cave, from
which it is divided by a partition,
so thin that it has been broken through
by some accident. It contains, and
this is the chief point of interest, two
sanctuaries, in which are dagobas, or
solid masses of stone or earth, in the
form of a cupola. The most southern
of these stands in a recess, the three sides
of which are divided into panels on
which are carved one, two, or more
figures of Buddha and of Bodhisatwas in
various attitudes. Behind the northern
dagoba Buddha is represented on a
lion-throne, which rests on a lotus,
whose stalk is supported by two boys
with hoods like that of the cobra.
From the main stem spring two others,
on which are two youths with the fans
called alumni, and one with a lotus-head
in his hand. Above are two flying figures,
and two of priests below, and a group is
thus formed, the fac-simile of which
is seen at Karli and Ajanta.
The Great Chaitya Cave joins this
verandah in the manner just men-
tioned ; it resembles the great cave at
Karli. Figures of Buddha 23 ft. high
occupy both extremities. On the jamb
of the entrance to the verandah is an
inscription of Gautamiputra 11., in
the 4th cent. A.D. In front of the
cave itself is a portal, and after that a
vestibule. Between the verandah and
_ the Great Care is a small tank. Five
steps lead up to the portal, which opens
into a court, where are two lofty
columns, that on the rt. surmounted
by 4 lions couchant. Its pedestal is
cut into panels and supports an image
of Buddha, whose head is canopied by
five heads of the hooded snake. The
left column has three dwarf figures on
the top, which once, perhaps, supported
a wheel. The whole space at the farther
end of the portico is occupied by the
front face of the cave, which is divided
by plain columns into three square
portals beneath and five open windows
above, beyond which is the vestibule.
On the right and left of the vestibule,
in recesses, are gi antic statues of
Buddha, 23 ft. hig . The interior
temple again is arted from the vesti-
bule by a secon screen, the figures of

which, like all the carving of this cave,
are most slovenly. The pillars that
surround the nave are of the same
order as those at Karli, but much
inferior in execution. Six on one side
and 11 on the other have capitals orna-
mented with figures of elephants pour-
ing water from jars on the sacred bo
tree or on dagobas, and boys with
snake heads are also introduced. The
nave terminates in a semicircle, and
at this end is a dagoba.
Mr. Fergusson is of opinion that this
Great Ohaitya Cave was excavated after
the vihara, and that the three dagobas
existing at its threshold are more
ancient than the cave itself. As the
spot had been regarded as sacred owing
to them, some devotee, he thinks, deter-
mined on excavating a great temple
behind and between them.
The Barber Cave—Proceeding a
little to the N.E. from the cave just
described, and turning to the rt.
round an angle of the rock, there is a
long winding ascent by steps out in the
rock, leading to many smaller caves in
a ravine through which a strong moun-
tain torrent pours in the rainy season.
There are ranges of caves at different
heights on both sides the ravine, com-
municating by steps with one another,
and above are the remains of a dam
erected across the ravine, by which a
capacious reservoir was once formed.
The first cave on the rt. hand is the
so-ealled Durbar Gave, or “Cave of
Audience," the finest vihara of the
series, and the only one that can com-
pete in size with those at Ajanta. It
is 96 ft. 6 in. long, and 42 ft. 3 in.
deep, exclusive of the cells. Immedi-
ately opposite is a vast excavation, in
which are a few fragments of columns
hanging to the roof.
Upper Carma—Ascending still higher
from the platform of the Great Cave,
the traveller comes to 20 or 30 exca-
vations, containing nothing of note.
Above these again is another series of
viharas, of which three are very inter-
esting, their walls being entirely covered
with figures, finely executed. The
general design is Buddha seated on a
lotus. Remains of plaster and painting
are seen here and there. Mr. Fergusson


SAPARA—JOGESHWAR CAVE
25
remarks on the peculiar head-dress of
the principal figure in some of the
groups, which he had not noticed else-
where, and observes also that this
figure is attended by two female figures,
whereas the true Buddha is always
attended by men. On the E. side of
the hill is a broad, long, and level
- terrace, commanding a very fine view of
the surrounding country.1
The following passage from Dr.
Bird's book refers to a discovery of great
importance made by him :—
“The tope at Kanhari, which was
opened by me in 1839, appeared to have
been on'ginally 12 or 16 ft. in height,
and of a pyramidal shape; but being
much dilapidated, formed exteriorly a
heap of stones and rubbish. The largest
of several being selected for examina-
tion, was penetrated from above to the
base, which was built of cut stone.
After digging to a level with the ground
and clearing away the loose materials,
the workmen came to a circular stone,
hollow in the centre and covered at
the top by a piece of gypsum. This
contained two small cop er urns, in
one of which were a rug , a pearl,
and small piece of gold mixed with
ashes. In this urn there was also a
small gold box containing a piece of
cloth, and in the other, ashes and a
silver box were found. Outside the
circular stone there were two copper
plates, on which were legible inscrip-
tions in the Laih or cave character.
The smaller of the plates had two lines
0f writing in a character similar to that
met with at the entrance of the Ajanta
Caves; the larger one was inscribed
With letters of an earlier date. The
lilSt part of the first-mentioned inscrip-
tion contained the Buddhist creed, as
found on the base of the Buddha image
from Tirhut, and on the stone taken
from the tape of Samaih, near Benares.”
1 The inscriptions at Kanhari have been
translated and explained to some extent, and
Wlth much learning, by the Rev. Dr. J.
Bleyenson in the Journal oftlw Bombay Asiatic
1 my. vol. v. No. XVIII. Art. I. for July
353- In Bird‘s Caves of Western India also
Will be found some translations furnished to
the author by persons acquaint/ed with San-
]scm; but the most valuable part of the work
ast named is the notice of discoveries made
on opening the dagobas, etc.

The most curious fact of all connected
with Kanhari is the existence there in
ancient times of a teeth of Buddha.
The cave over which inscription 7
of those mentioned by Stevenson is
engraved, is called Sakadatya-lena, the
“Buddha-tooth Cave,” probably be-
cause the relic was there temporarily
deposited, while the tope in which it
was finally lodged was being prepared.
(5) Sapara is a village W. of the B. B.
and C. I. Railway 3 m. N.W. of Bassein
Road station on that line. A Buddhist
tope at this place was opened which
yielded some highly interesting relics,
now to be seen in the great room of
the Asiatic Society in the Town Hall,
Bombay. The subject is worthy of the
study of Orientalists and the continued
research of travellers.
(6) Jogeshwar Cave—6 m. S. of
Magathana Caves, and 2 m. N.E. of the
village of J ogeshwar (8 m. N. of M ahim,
the town at the N.W. point of
the island of Bombay). The W. en-
trance is that now used; but the
decorations on the E. side are more
carefully executed, and the prin-
cipal entrance was probably there.
Over the sloping pat that leads to
the W. entrance :1 natural arch is
formed by the branches of a banyan
tree, which, shooting across, have
taken root on the other side, and
render the apiroach singularly pic-
turesque. Eig t steps lead down to
a small anteroom, in which the figures
are greatly decayed. A door leads into
the Great Cave, and above this are two
figures in the attitude in which Ramah
and Sita are often represented. The
Great Cave is 120 ft. square, and 18
ft. from the door are 20 pillars of the
same order as at Elephanta, forming
an inner square. Within there is a
chamber 24 ft. sq., with 4 doors. This
is a temple sacred to Mahadeo. On
the walls are the vestiges of many
figures. Over the door at the E. en-
trance is a curious design of a monster,
with the mouth of a hippopotamus,
trunk of an elephant, and a dragon's
tail, which appears to vomit forth a
sculptured group, representing Ramah


26
India.
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
and Sita, supported by Ravan. From
this entrance two vestibules lead to
three doorways, which again open into
the great cave. Over the doorways are
some curious designs, as, e.g. over the
centre one a figure resembling Buddha,
and on one side a hero leaning on a
dwarf, who grasps in his hands two
enormous snakes that are closely
twined round his body. Mr. Burgess
thinks the date of this cave may be
the latter half of the 8th century A.D.
(7) Matheran.—54 m. from Bombay
by G. I. P. Rly. (see Rte. 22).
(8) The Tansa Water Supply (D.B.
G. I. P. Rly. to Atgaon sta, 59 m.)—
The increasing population of Bombay,
and the enormous benefits to the health
of the inhabitants that have resulted
from the water-works above described,
have induced the municipality to con-
struct a still larger reservoir on the
Tansa River, about 60 m. N.E. of
Bombay. The Dam which encloses the
watershed of the Tansa River, com-
pleted 1891, is the largest piece of
masonry of modern times. , It is of a
uniform height of 118 ft., and is 2 m.
long, 103 ft. thick at the base, and 24
ft. at the top, where a flagged road runs
along it. It encloses a lake 8 sq. m.
in area, and is capable of supplying
33,000,000 gallons daily (Engineer, W.
Clerke; Contractor, T. C. Glover).
(9) Karli.-—-85 m. from Bombay;
caves 6 m. from rly. sta. (see Rte. 22).
(10) Gersoppa Falls (D. B. )—From
Bombay by steamer to Carwar. From
Carwar to Honawar (D.B.) by “mun-
chul,” 52 m., 15 rs. ; Honawar to Ger-
soppa, 18 m., by native boat up a
shallow river to Rule ; Gersoppa to the
Falls, 18 m., by munchul, 4-8 rs.
Write beforehand to the Mamlatdar at
Carwar for munchul, and to the Mam-
latdar at Honawar to make arrange-
ments. “There are in all 4 falls,
which have been called the Great Fall,
the Roar-er, the Rocket, and the Dame
Blanche. In the first of these the
water, in considerable volume, makes
a sheer leap down of 829 ft., and

falls into a pool 132 ft. deep." The
scenery up the valley and the ghat to
the Falls is superb, but read is very
malarious until Dec. or J an., by which
time the Falls have run out a great deal.
Provisions should be taken. This is
a long and somewhat troublesome
journey ; for full particulars see Rte. 28.
ROUTE l.
BOMBAY 'ro CALCUTTA BY NAer,
Caves 0F AJANTA, JUBBULPORE,
ALLAHABAD, AND BENARES.
Rail, 1400 m. (G. I. P. R.); mail train 60 hours.
The traveller may leave Bombay from
the Victoria terminus or the Byculla
station.
The rule for breaking journeys on
Indian railways allows the traveller to
spend 16 days on the journey from
Bombay to Calcutta with one through
ticket. Cost, 1st class 112 rs., 2d
class 56 rs., and servants 20 Is.
Luggage beyond a small allowance is
extra. The 85 In. between Bombay and
Igat uri are by far the most picturesque
on t e Whole line between the western
and eastern capitals, but unfortunately
the mail train each way passes over
the best part of this in the dark. The
traveller can arrange to see it by day-
light, on the eastward journey, by pre-
ceding the mail. He should leave by
the midday train and reach Igatpuri
in the evening, rejoining the mail
train at that place at night; and on the
westward journey by waiting at Igat-
puri for a slow train.
On leaving Bombay, between Sion
and Coorla, the railway passes on a
causeway from the island of Bombay
to the larger island of Salsette.
9. m. Coorla sta. Close by, rt., are
the once famous cotton-mills.


ROUTE 1.
27
TANNA—KALYAN
21. m. Tame. (Thana) sta., D.B.
Of historical interest in connection
with the early Portuguese settlement.
It commands the most frequented
passage from the mainland to the island
of Salsette. Marco P010 (1298 A.D.)
says, “Tana is a great kingdom lying
towards the west. . . . There is much
traffic here, and many ships and mer-
chants frequent the place."
In 1320 four Christian companions
of Friar Odoricus here suffered martyr-
dom. Friar J ordanus narrates that he
baptized about 90 persons ten days’
journey from Tanna, besides 35 who
were baptized between Tanna and Su-
para.
The country round Tanna was highly
cultivated, and was studded with
mansions of the Portuguese when in
1737 it was wrested from them by the
Marathas. In 1774 the Portuguese sent
a formidable armament from Europe
for the avowed object of recovering
their lost possessions. The Government
of Bombay determined to anticipate
their enterprise, and to seize upon the
island for the English. A force was
prepared under General Robert Gordon,
andTannawas taken afterasiege of three
days. On 6th March 1775 the Peshwa
Raghuba by the Treaty of Bassein ceded
the island of Salsette in perpetuity.
In 1816 Trimbakji Danglia, the cele-
brated minister of Baji Rao, the last
Peshwa, effected his escape from the
fort of Tanna, though guarded by a
strong body of European soldiers. The
difficulties of this escape were greatlyex-
aggerated all over the Maratha country,
and it was compared to that of Shivaji
from the power of Aurangzib. The
principal agent in this exploit was a
Maratha horse-keeper in the service
of one of the English oflicers of the
garrison, who, passing and re-passing
Trimbakji’s cell, as if to exercise his
master’s horse, sang the information
he wished to convey in a careless
manner, which disarmed suspicion.
Bishop Heber, who had seen Trimbakji
Imprisoned in the fort of Chunar, was
much interested in this escape, and
writes—
“The oom’s singing was made
up of verses like the following :—

“ Behind the bush the bowmen hide,
The horse beneath the tree,
Where shall I find a knight will ride
The jungle paths with me?
“ There are five and fifty courscrs there,
And four and fifty men ;
When the fifty-fifth shall mount his steed,
The Deccan thrives again. "
Heber adds that Tanna is chiefly in-
habited by Roman Catholic Christians,
either converted Hindus or Portuguese,
who have become as black as the
natives and assume all their habits ; he
also describes the place as neat and
flourishing, and famous for its breed of
hogs, and the manner in which the
Portuguese inhabitants cure bacon.
The English church, which he describes,
was bein built when he arrived, and
on 10th Tuly 1825 it was consecrated
by him.
[Tanna is the best starting-place for
the Caves of Kanhari, excavated in
one of the hills of the island of Sal-
sette. It is about 6 m. drive in a
bullock-gharry to the foot of the hill.
There are 109 caves in all, and the
largest is 90 ft. x40 ft. (see Environs
of Bombay, at the beginning).]
33 m. Kalyanjunct. stalk (R.) Here
the Madras line through Ambarnath,
Poona, and Raichur branches 06 SE.
(Rte. 22). This is a very ancient
town, and in early times, no doubt,
was the capital of an extensive pro-
vince. There is good reason to think
that a Christian bishop resided at
Kalyan in the beginning of the 6th
cent. In 1780, the Marathas having
cut off the supplies from Bombay and
Salsette, the British Government deter-
mined to occupy the Konkan opposite
Tanna as far as the Ghats. Accord-
ingly, several posts were seized, and
Kalyan amongst them ; and here Cap-
tain Richard Campbell was placed with
a garrison. Nana Farnavis forthwith
assembled a large force to rccovcr
Kalyan, on which he set a high value,
and his first operations were very
successful. He attacked the English
advanced post at the Ghats, and killed
or made prisoners the whole detach-
ment. He then compelled Ensign
Fyfe, the only surviving oflicer, to write
to Captain Campbell that, unless he


28 ROUTE 1.
India
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
surrendered, he would put all his
prisoners, 26 in number, to death,
storm Kalyan, and put all the garrison
to the sword. To this Cam )bell re-
plied that, “ the Nana was weicome to
the town if he could take it.” After
a spirited defence, he was relieved by
Colonel Hartley, on the 24th May,
just as the Marathas were about to
storm. The remains of buildings
round Kalyan are very extensive ; and
Fryer, who visited the place in 1673,
“gazed with astonishment on ruins of
stately fabrics and many traces of
departed magnificence."
Between Kalyan and Igatpuri, the
railway ascends from the Konkan to
the Deccan plateau by the mountain-
pass, known as the Tal Ghat.
75 m. Kasara sta. (R.) Here a
special engine is attached and the
ascent of the Ghat begins. In 91} m.
the line ascends 1050 ft.
At 79% In. is the reversing station,
and the ascent terminates at 85 m.
Igatpuri, 10! DB. (R.), where the special
engine and brakes are removed.
The ascent of the Tal Ghat is at all
seasons interesting; but during the
rains it is most beautiful. The leaves
are then bright green, and the country
below the Ghats is all streams, pools,
and inundations; the Ghats themselves
all cascades and torrents. Igatpuri,
properly Wigatpnra, “ the town of dif-
ficulties,” so called on account of the
precipitous road that preceded the
railway, is a pleasant sanitarium and
summer resort of Europeans from Bom-
bay. Some large game is to be found
in the neighbourhood. There are
several European bungalows belonging
to railway officials, and a fair hotel.
The line passes through a comparatively
level country, with low mountains on
either side, to
113 m. Deoalli sta.* A halting-place
for troops arriving from or proceeding
* The best way to approach Nasik is by
driving (7 m.) from Deoalli sta. Write before-
hanld to the station-master to have a carriage
rem y.

to Europe. There are barracks for 5000
men.
117 m. NASIK" Road sta.,* DE.
(The Nasica of Ptolemy.)
A tramway conveys passengers to
the town, DB. (1900 ft. above sea-
level), 5Q m. N.W. of the stal Pop.
35,000. It is one of the most sacred
places of the Hindus; 1300 families
of Brahman priests are settled here.
It is said that Lakshmau, the elder
brother of Rama, cut off the nose
of Sarpnakha, Ravana’s sister ; and as
Nasika in Sanskrit is “a nose," the
place hence got its name. The real
cause of the sanctity of N asik, however,
is its position on the banks of the sacred
river Godavari, about 19 m. from its
source at Trimbak.
Nasik may be called the Western
Benarcs, as the Godovari is termed the
Ganga—“Ganges.” All Hindus of
rank on visiting it leave a record of
their visit with their Upadhya, or
“ family priest," for each noble family
has such a priest at each celebrated
place of pilgrimage. In this record
are entered the names of the visitor’s
ancestors, and thus the pedigree of
every Hindu chief is to be found in the
keeping of these Upadhyas. Even
Jang Bahadur, the late de facto ruler
of Nipal, had his Upadhya at Nasik.
The present Gaekwar owes his seat on
the throne to this custom, for when
the Gaekwar of Baroda was deposed
and an heir sought for, the family
Upadhya at Nasik supplied proofs of
the young prince’s legitimate descent
from Pratap Rao, brother of Damaji,
the third Gaekwar.
The Sundar Narayan Temple was
built by one of Holkar's Sardars in
1725. It is smaller than that of the
Black Rama (see below), but a miracle
of art. Below it may be seen the
temples of Balaji and of the White
Rama, and the Memorial erected to the
Kapurthala Rajah, who died in 1870
near Aden, on his way to Europe.
At Nasik the river, here 80 yds. broad,
is lined on either side for a distance of
400 yds. with flights of steps, and dotted
with temples and shrines, and, as in


Roma 1.
nasn; 29
most Indian cities situated near flowing
rivers, the view along the banks when
hundreds of men and women are bath-
ing is extremely picturesque. The
part of the town which stands on the
rt. bank of the river is built upon 3
hills, and is divided into the New Town
N. and the Old Town S. The quarter
on the 1. bank, where are the chief
objects of interest, is called Panchwam'.
The manufacture of brass and copper
ware, especially of idols, caskets, boxes,
chains, lamps, etc., flourishes here.
The temples at Nasik, though pic-
turesque, have no striking architectural
features.
% In. to the W., on the Panchwati
side of the river, is a solidly-built house
belonging to the Rastia family. Here
alight and walk a few hundred yards
up a lane to five very old and large
trees of the Ficus indiea species. Under
the shade of the largest is a small build-
lllg- None but Hindus may pass the
vestibule. It consists of a low room,
at the S. end of which is an arch 3 ft.
high, and beyond steps descend to
2 apartments 5 ft. sq. and 4 ft. high.
In the first room are images of Rama,
_Slta, and Lakshman. In the second
\5 {111 image of Mahadeo, 6 in. high,
\VllIGh those three personages are said
'10 have worshipped ; hence arises the
extreme sanctity of the place, which is
quite one of the holiest in Nasik. This
hole is Sita's Gupha, or Cave, where
she found an asylum until lured away
by Ravana to Ceylon. Farther down
the river, and just before reaching
the riverside, is the oldest temple in
the Place, Kapaleshwar, “God of the
Skull," :1 name of Shiva. The ascent
to it is by 50 stone steps. It is said
to be 600 years old, but is quite plain
flpd unattractive. Opposite to it the
river foams and rushes in a rocky bed.
Ram?! Kund is the place where the
gOd is said to have bathed; hence it
15 Very sacred, and bones of the dead
are taken there to be washed away.
PPOSite to it and in the river itself is
a stone dharmsala, with several arches,
roofed OVer, in which ascetics lodge
When the water is low. Down the
stream, about 20 yds., are three temples

erected by Ahalya Bai. The first is
only a few feet high and long, but the
next is a large square building, with a
stone foundation and brick superstruc-
ture, dedicated to Rama; N. of it is
a long dharmsala, and a little down
the stream is the third temple, all of
stone. About 200 ft. down the stream
is Nam Shankar's temple, with an
elaborately carved portico and a large
stone enclosure. This ends the temples
immediately on the water on the Panch-
wati side. Proceed then i m. by a
back way through streets of well-built
houses to the great temple dedicated to
Kala. Rama, or “Black Rama,” which
cost £70,000. It stands in an oblong
stone enclosure, with 96 arches. The
readiest way to cross from the Panch-
wati side to the main town is by the
ferry-boat, which is 1} in. down stream.
Beyond the ferry, to the W., is a hill
called Sunar ’Ali, and there is another
hill close by, called Junagadh, or Old
Fort, on which is a square building, in
which Aurangzib’s chief officials used
to reside. They command fine views
over the city.
The traveller should not leave Nasik
without visiting Sharanpore, seat of
the mission founded by the Church
Missionary Society in 1835, in the
J unawadi part of N asik, and moved to
Sharanpore by Mr. W. S. Price in 1855.
Since the establishment of the Govern-
ment High School at Nasik in 1872
the missionary school has fallen off.
There was connected with this mission
an African Asylum for youths rescued
from slavery, and it was from here that
Livingstone’s Nasilc boys were drawn.
It closed in 1875, and Mr. Price took
the boys to the E. coast of Africa,
where a colony is established for
redeemed slaves. The large schoolroom
is used as a church.
In a hill 4% m. S. of Nasik are the
Lena. Caves. A narrow path ascends
to the height of about 450 ft. to a
broad black line in the N. face of the
hill, which extends about 1 m. in length,
and marks the excavations. In the
centre, just opposite the spot where
the path ends, is a Gave 37 ft. x 29 ft.,
and 10 ft. high, with a perfectly flat


30 ROUTE 1.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
roof, hewn out of the solid rock. Round
the central chamber are 16 cells, each
6 ft. sq., with a recess, hewn so as to
make a couch for the inmate. In the
centre is a figure of Bhairu (see below)
with a mace, on which he leans with
his left hand. On either side of him
is a female figure. That on the right
is represented dancing, and is fairly
well carved. On the inside face of the
corridor, and on one side, is a long
inscription in old Deva-nagri charac-
ters. To the W. is a small cave with
two pillars with elephants on their
capitals; then a ruined cell with a.
broken inscribed tablet. Next is a
fine cave with six pillars, of which two
are broken, and the heads and busts of
six giants supportingthebasementof the
corridor. Inside the gallery, on the left
of the entrance, are two long inscrip-
tions. The door has a figure about 4
ft. high on either side, which the guides
call a Gopi, and all round the door are
small figures much defaced. Then
there is a large chamber, nearly the
same size as that in the first cave, with
18 cells surrounding it. At the end is
a dagoba with figures on the sides, a
carved belt half way up, and a double
ornament at top. To the W. is a low
cave with 12 figures. On the left is
Vishwakarma, seated, with female
figures on either side, and opposite are
Vishwakarma’s brother and father. To
the W. in a line with them is a figure
3 ft. 6 in. hi h, called by the guides
Gautama. Then there is a large ex-
cavation, about 20 ft. long, called Sita’s
tank, which is carried under the rock.
There are four pillars in front, two of
them broken. Above is a frieze 6 in.
broad, with figures of horses, bulls,
deer, and elephants. Beyond is a tank.
To the E. is a cave with seven pillars
and a dagoba, which the guides say is
Bhim’s mace. Beside it is a chamber,
approached by steps. It has seven cells
round it, and at the N. end a defaced
figure of Parbati.
Farther E. is the large Cave of the
five Pandus, which gives its name to
the hill. It is 46 ft. deep, and 27 ft.
broad. There are 22 cells round it. On
the right of the spectator as he enters

is Bhim, with Draupadi on his right.
On the left is Arjun, and Krishna, much
smaller, seated by him. In the recess
is a seated figure of Dharma Rajah, as
he sits with Sahadeva and Nakula on
his right. There is a wall 3 ft. high
in front of the recess, which is so dark
that nothing can be seen without a
torch. The figures are bad and of
much later date than the cave. There
are several other smaller cells of less
importance.
About 2 m. E. of the town, in the
hill of Ramshej, is another group of
excavations, but they are of little im-
portance.
19 m. by road is Trimbak.
There are several stone-faced wells
on this route, and at Nirwadi, on the
right of the road, is a beautiful tank
lined with stone, and with stone steps
and 2 small pagodas built by Ahalya
Bai. Near Wadi 2 conical hills, about
900 ft. high, face each other on either
side of the read. From these the hills
run in fantastic shapes to Trimbak,
where they form a gigantic crescent
from 1210 to 1500 ft. high. Below
this mountain wall, which has near
the top a scarp of about 100 ft., is the
small town of about 3000 inhab. It
derives its name from TM', “three”
and Ambak, “ eye ;" three-eyed being
a name of Shiva. The Fort stands on
an impregnable height, 1800 ft. above
the town. The Temple of Trimbakesh-
mar, which is on the E. side of the
town, not far from where the Nasik
road enters, was built by the great Baji
Rao Peshwa, who died in 1740. It
cost £90,000. It stands in a stone en-
closure, which has no corridor, but a
portico, which is the music gallery,
and is 40 ft. high. The ascent is by
steps outside, and strangers are per-
mitted to mount in order to look into
the interior of the temple, which none
but Hindus may enter. A flight of
690 steps up a hill at the back of Trini-
bak leads to the sacred source of the
river Godavari, where “the water
trickles drop by drop from the lips of
a carven image shrouded by a canopy
of stone ” into a tank below. For Q


ROUTE 1.
31
EXPEDITION TO AJANTA
m. the banks of the stream, 15 ft. broad,
are faced with stone. The water is
dirty. On its course is a fine stone
tank, surrounded on three sides by a
portions 25 ft. high, with a pagoda at
each corner. Close to it is a stone en-
closure full of filthy water, into which
the leaves offered to the deities are
thrown and there decompose. At the
S. end is a temple to Shiva.
147 m. Lasalgaon sta. From this
place Ohandor, an interesting town,
overhung by a fine hill-fort, is 14 m.
N. bya good road. The Maharajah
Holkar is hereditary Patel of Chandor.
The fort was taken by the British in
1804, and again in 1818.
162 m. Munma: junct. sta., D.B., (K)
This is the junction of the Dhond
and Munmar State Railway, which
forms a cord line between the N.E.
and S.E. branches of the G.I.P.R.
About 4 m. S. of the station is the
Ankai Tanki Fort, now in ruins, and
7 Buddhist caves of some interest.
Between the caves and the station
rises a curious hill called Ram Gulni,
surmounted by a natural obelisk of
trap rock 80 or 90 feet high.
178 m. Nandgaon sta., D.B. (R.)
From here a road runs SE. to Auran-
gabad, 56 m., the fort of Daulatabad,
and the Caves of Ellora (see Rte. 2).
232 m. Pachora. sta., D.B. From
here the Caves of Ajanta are distant
34 m. by a rough road.
[Expedition to Ajanta.
The D.B. nearest to the caves is at
Fardarpur, 30 m. from Pachora. The
bestway of accomplishing the journey is
to write at least one clear day before to
the Mumlutdar (native magistrate) at
Pachora asking him to arrange for a
bullock-cart with a change of bullocks
on the road for each person of the party.
Two persons in one cart will find it ex
tremely uncomfortable. A traveller
who does not know the language well
must be accompanied by a servant or
interpreter, and each person must have
bedding and provisions. The journey

will take from 9 to 12 hours, and cost
from 12 to 15 rs. for each cart. Not
more than 80 pounds of luggage should
be taken in the cart. The less the
better for speed and comfort. There
are fairly good guides on the spot.
The caves are a good hour’s walk, 4 m.
by a bridle-path from the DB. at
Fardarpur. The bed of the Wagora
river is crossed and recrossed many
times. The ravine is wooded and lonely.
The caves extend about one-third of a
mile from E. to W., and are excavated
in the concave scarp of the trap rock at
an elevation of from 35 to 110 ft. above
the bed of the stream. The most an-
cient caves are near the E. end.
Following F ergusson’s arrangement,
they are numbered from E. to W. The
cave-temples and monasteries of Ajanta
furnish a history of Buddhist art, and
illustrate the legends of the religion and
the domestic life of the people from
shortly after the reign of Asoka to
shortly before the expulsion of the faith
from India. The oldest caves are
believed to date from about 200 13.0.1
The narrow path by which access is
gained to the caves reaches them at the
seventh cave from the E. Thence the
path goes on ascending to E. and W.
along a narrow ledge, in some places
not more than 2 ft. broad, and reaches
cave Number 1, the farthest point on
the E. This is a vihara. Mr. Burgess
assigns this cave to the 7th century.
The facade is richly decorated with
sculptured processions of elephants,
horses, and people. On the S. frieze of
the portico is a very spirited repre-
sentation of a wild buffalo hunt. The
hunters are mounted and armed with
bows and arrows. The door jambs are
embellished with male and female
figures in amatory attitudes. The great
hall or central chamber is 64 ft. sq.,
and has 20 pillars. The capital of
one on the S. side is remarkable for
four bodies of deer with only one head,
which suits each body according to the
position from which you look at it.
There are remains of highly interesting
1 The Indian Government caused copies of
these ancient mural paintings to be made,
and ninety of them may be seen at the South
Kensington Museum.


32 noon: 1.
India
BOMBAY T0 CALCUTTA
paintings in oil on the walls of this cave.
Remark on the right-hand side of the
back wall a very Chinese-looking figure
of a youth with a perfectly white skin.
Remark also four pictures of a group
of four figures, which Mr. Fergusson
has pronounced to be very probably
Khusru and Shirin and two attendants.
Khusru II., or Khusru Parviz, whose
loves with Shirin are the subject of
some of the most famous Persian poetry,
reigned from 591 to 628 AJ). This king
of Persia received an embassy from a
king of the Deccan, in whose territory
were the Caves of Ajanta, and it is
thought by some that when the embassy
returned the king sent with it Persian
painters who executed these designs.
The king, a large fair man with all the
look of a voluptuary, and dressed in
Eastern robes with a strange high
loose cap something like the red night-
cap which used to be worn in England,
holds a broad shallow cup, into which
a beautiful girl, supposed to be Shirin,
is pouring wine from a vase of classic
character. In another tableau the
king in royal state is receiving and
apparently sending back the embassy
from the Indian prince. There is a
sort of fillet worn by Khusru, which
resembles that exhibited on a patera
in Paris, and displays an undoubted
representation of Khusru. In the
shrine of this cave Buddha is seated in
the teaching attitude. There are four
cells in the back wall besides the shrine,
and five in each side wall. The paint-
ings in this cave, as in Numbers 2 and
16, are, in Mr. Bur ess’s opinion, quite
equal in colour am? grouping to those
at Pompeii.
Number 2, a vihara cave. There are
two chapels to the verandah. Observe
in ceiling near the S. chapel two figures
of men with striped socks. One holds
a beautifully-shaped amphom and a
flattish cup in his hand. The flowers
on the ceiling are particularly beautiful.
Inside the side chapels in the back
wall are very remarkable Italian-look-
ing female figures. The middle one
of one of the 4 groups has quite the
look of a Madonna, and all resemble
the Italian paintings of the early part
of the 14th century. Buddha holds

the little finger of his left hand with the
thumb and forefinger of the right. The
Mohammedaus seem not to have gener-
ally destroyed the noses here as they
have at Ellora. In the centre of
Buddha's throne is the Wheel of theLaw
between two deer. The chapel in the
back wall, on the right of the shrine, has
two figures, which are either the patron
and patroness or Indra and Indrani.
In the left-hand top corner is a very
remarkable group, to all appearance a
woman teaching her child to pray, and
resembling a famous European picture.
On the frieze below is a ram-fight, and
figures boxing and wrestling, with
musicians and a president. The Italian-
looking figures of fair women are many
of them nude to the waist. The chapel
on the left has two male figureswith head-
dresses like wings of an enormous size,
and all hanging on the left shoulder.
Number 3, a small vihara, quite un-
finished.
Number 4, a large vihara. There is
a very remarkable representation of the
Litany, as it is called by Mr. Burgess,
on the right of the door, consisting of
two sets of four groups each. The 1st
group on the left consists of two figures
flying from an infuriated elephant ;
the 2d group is of two figures flying
from a lion ; the 3d exhibits two
figures flying from a man with a
sword, who is stabbing one in the
stomach ; the 4th group is intended
to represent the perils of the sea, but is
so much obliterated that one can make
out nothing but some figures in a vessel.
The 1st group on the right hand repre-
sents the perils of fire; the 2d group
is a pair of figures threatened by a
cobra; the 3d rou is of two figures,
one of which he ds t is other by a rope,
which asses over his shoulder and is
fastene round his wrist,—this repre-
sents Captivity; the 4th group repre-
sents Kali the Hindu oddess of destruc-
tion, uplifting her ske eton arms to seize
a victim,—-this represents Famine.
Number 5, a vihara, commenced only.
Number 6, a vihara, remarkable for
having two stories, of which there is
here only one other example, viz. cave
Number 25. The staircase to the
upper story is broken away to the


some 1.
33
EXPEDITION TO AJANTA
height of 13 ft., so that that story is
almost inaccessible. The Bhil free-
booters for a long time inhabited this
cave, and damaged it excessively.
Number 7, a vihara. It has a large
verandah with cells at the back like the
Cuttack Caves. Two porches of two
pillars each project from the front line
of the verandah, resembling those at
Elephanta and the Duma Lena, and are
probably of the same date. There is also
a chape with two pillars at either end.
In the vestibule are 4 rows of 5 cross-
le ged figures seated on the lotus, with
antus between each pair, and one row
of studying Buddhas. On the right
are two similar sculptures of repeated
figures of Buddha seated and standing.
Within the sanctuary on either side are
two large figures and one small, and
two fan-bearers. On the step are 16
cross-legged figures, 8 on either side.
Nu/mber 8, a vihara of no interest.
Number 9 is a dagoba. There are 3 in-
scriptions, probably of the 2d cent. A.D.
Number 10, a dagoba. The statue
of Buddha is uite separated from the
wall. The roo is ribbed. The ribbing
in the aisles being of stone, and in the
nave of wood, though now only the
fastening pins, and the footings for one
or two of the ribs are left. The da-
goba is plain and solid, with only the
square capital or Tee on the top. The
whole of this cave has been painted,
thou hnow only some fi es of Buddha
and Tris disciples are le t. On the in-
terior face of the cave, and very high
up, is an inscription in the pure Lrit (see
Glossary) character, which would give
an antiquity of from 200 to 100 B.C.
Number 11 resembles cave Num-
ber 12, but has four pillars in the
centre supporting the roof, being prob-
ably one of the earliest instances of
the introduction of pillars for such a
purpose. On the walls are antelo es,
ions, and a boy praying, sculpture in
the very best style of art, and evidently
coeval with the Ganesh Gupha at
Cuttack. The walls have been stuccoed
and painted.
Number 12 is one of the most ancient
alld plaiuest of the series, having no
P1 are, sanctuary, or visible object of
worship. The only ornament consists
[India]
of seven horse-shoe canopies on each
side, four over the doors of the cells,
the other three merely ornamental.
These canopies are very similar to
those at Cuttack. There is an inscrip-
tion on the inner wall in a character
slightly modified from that on the
Ldls, and written probably early in the
Christian era, if not before it.
Number 13, a small cave with 2 cells.
Number 14, a large unfinished vihara.
Number 15, a plain square cave.
Number 16 and Number 17 are the
two finest viharas of the series. On the
external faces are two long inscriptions.
These caves date probably about the
4th century A. D. The paintings in the
great hall are very interesting, repre-
senting battles. The soldiers hold
short swords like the Nipalese knife,
and oblong shields, like the shield of
Achilles. The architectural details
are more elegant than in any cave in
the series. Number 17 is called the
Zodiac Cave, and resembles 16, except
that it is not so lofty, and the details
are not so elegant. The paintings, how-
ever, are more perfect. On the right-
hand wall, as you enter, a procession is
painted. Three elephants are issuing
from a gateway, one black, one white,
and one red. Flags and umbrellas are
borne before them, and men with spears
and swords make up the train. On the
back wall is a hunting scene, in which
a maned lion, now not found in India,
is a prominent figure. In the verandah
are some curious paintings, especially a
circular one, with eight compartments.
Over the door are eight sitting figures,
of which four are black, and the rest
each a degree fairer, the eighth being
quite white and wearing a crown. Mr.
Fergusson pronounces these paintings
to be decidedly superior to the style
of Europe during the age in which
they were executed.
Number 18 is merely a porch with
two pillars.
Number 19 is a chaitya (see Glossary)
cave, remarkable for the beauty of its
details. The roof is ribbed in stone.
The dagoba has three stone umbrellas,
rising till they touch the roof; in front
is a standing figure of Buddha.

Number 20 is a vihara.
D


34 ROUTE 1.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
Number 21. The paintings are
almost obliterated, except on the left
hand as you enter, where there is a
large black Buddha. with red hair,
attended by black Slaves, also a number
of females, fair as Europeans.
Numbers 22 and 23 are unimportant.
Number 24 is unfinished; but the
details, where completed, are so rich as
to leave no doubt that this would have
been one of the finest caves had the
design been fully carried out. Only one
pillar has been completely sculptured.
Number 25 is a small rude vihara.
Number 26 is a vaulted chaitya cave,
and perhaps the most modern of the
series. It resembles Number 19, but
is much larger. Its sculptures are
more numerous and minute than any
other. The Buddha in front of the
dagoba is seated, with his feet down.
The walls are covered with sculptures
of Buddha and disciples. In the S.
aisle is a figure 23 ft. 3 in. long, reclin-
ing all its length, in which attitude
Buddhists prepare to receive nirvdnah,
“ beatitude.” Above are many angels,
one of them sounding vigorously a big
drum. The fat figures which serve as
brackets have four arms. There are
two inscriptions on the outside, one
under a figure of Buddha on the left of
the entrance ; the other much broken,
but more distinct, on the right, in the
character of the 6th century A.D.
Number 27 is small and unfinished]
276 In. Bhusawal junc. sta. (R.) A
place called into existence by the
G.I.P.R. works. Junction of the line
leading E. to Amraoti, Nagpur, and
the Bengal - Nagpur Railway, the
nearest through road from Bombay to
Calcutta (see Rte. 3) (see also Nagpur
in Index and Directory).
2781; m. The Tapti Bridge, one of
the most important works on the line.
The first bridge built was abandoned
in consequence of the inferior nature
of the stone of which it was con-
structed.
310 mi. Burhanpur sta.:t: The city
is about 3 m. distant. Po . 34,000.
It has been a place of muc import-

ance, and is completely walled in. The
neighbourhood contains some interest-
ing Mohammedan ruins, and a curious
aqueduct still in use. In the town are
two handsome mosques. The Badshai
Killa—the ruins of a citadel and palace
-—is beautifull situated on a height
overlooking t e Tapti river. The
place was founded in 1400 A.D. by
Naser Khan of the Faruki dynasty of
Khandesh, and was annexed to the
Mogul Empire by Akbar in 1600 A.D.
It was the capital of the Deccan Pro-
vince of the empire when in 1614 AJ).
Sir Thomas Roe, ambassador from
James I. to the great Mogul, passed
through, and paid his respects to the
Viceroy Prince Parvis, son of J ehangir.
Sir Thomas complains that the Prince
“ made himself drunk out of a case of
bottles I gave him, and so the visit
ended." The place was taken by
General Wellesley in 1803, and given
back to Sindia the next year. It is
new British territory.
322 In. Chandni sta. About 6 In. by
a fair road is Asirgarh, an interest-
ing and picturesque hill-fort, a detached
rock standing up 850 ft. from the sur-
rounding plain. It was taken by storm
by General Wellesley’s army in 1803,
restored to Sindia, and a ain taken in
1819, since when it has belonged to the
British. The country around is wild
and abounds in large game.
353 In. Khandwa junc. sta.,* D.B.
(R.) A civil station, the chief place of
the district of Nimar in the Central
Provinces. From here the metre-gauge
system of the Bombay, Baroda, and
Central Indian Railway runs N. to
Mhow, Indore, and through Western
Malwa to Ajmere, Agra, and Delhi
(see Rte. 4).
417 m. Harda sta.:tr (pop. about
14,000). An important mart for the
export of grain and seeds. Here the
rai way enters the great wheat-field of
the Nerbudda. Valley, which extends
to J ubbulpore. Harda has a good D.B.
3 In. walk from the sta. Ralli Bros.
have an agency at Harda.
464 m. Itarsi junc. sta., at: D. B. (R.)


ROUTE l .
35
EXPEDITION TO THE MARBLE ROCKS
From this the system of the Indian
Midland Railway runs N. to Hoshan-
gabad, Bhopal, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra,
and Cawnpore (see Rte. 5).
505 m. Piparia sta. There is a
comfortable D. B. close to the station.
[A fair road leads in 32 m. S. to Pach-
mari, the favourite hill-station of the
Central Provinces. There are many
bungalows at Pachmari and barracks,
which are occupied by European troops
in the hot season. The station is nearly
4000 feet above sea-level. There are
several D. B5. on the way; the ascent,
which is 12 m. long, is very pleasing.
Good large-game shooting in the forests
below the station]
536 m. Gadarwara. junc. sta. A
railway 12 111. long leads S. to the Moh-
pani coal-mines, worked by the Ner-
budda Coal Co.
616 m. from Bombay and 792 m. from
Calcutta by the Allahabad route,
JUBBULPORB sta.,* (R.), an im-
portant civil and military station, the
meeting-place of the G.I.P. and East
Indian Rlys.
The town (pop. 84,570) and station
are well laid out and well cared for,
but contain little of interest in them-
selves. Travellers stop herein order to
visit the Marble Rocks (see below). In
the modern settlement of India few sub-
jects have created more interest than
the suppression of the Thags (Thugs),
a fraternity devoted to the murder of
human beings by strangulation. The
occupation was hereditary. They made
it at once a religion and a means of
livelihood. The principal agent in
hunting down these criminals was Cap-
tain Sleeman, and it was at J ubbulpore—
a great centre of their operations—that
the informers and the families of the
captured Thags were confined. They
were kept in an enclosed village, and
to provide them with occupation the
once famous “School of Industry " was
established in 1835. Originally there
were 2500 of these people, now very few
remain. A pass is required to see the
institution.

[Expedition to the Marble Rocks.1
The Marble Rocks, which are 11 m.
from Jubbulpore, are worth a visit.
Tongas can be hired for the trip. The
road is heavy and dusty in places, but
generally good. At 91} In. turn 1. to
the rocks by a branch road, which for
the last i m. is impracticable in the
rains. There is a comfortable D.B.
Descend 70 ft. to the river-side, and
there embark. Four men to row and
one to steer are quite enough. The
river in the dry season is a series of
deep pools without current, and of a
dark green, and full of fish and alli-
gators. The latter do not come out on
the rocks till the sun is high, when
they bask, and might be shot at, were
it not for the bees. There are pigeons,
too, and water-fowl, but shooting has
its perils, for there are both hornets’
and bees' nests. These quickly attack
persons who fire guns or make a noise.
net at the end of the pools, at a place
called the Monkey's Leap, two young
railway engineers were attacked by bees
as they were shooting. One got ashore
and ran off with the natives into the
jungle, and though much stung, escaped
death. The other jumped into the
water and dived, and though a good
swimmer, was drowned, for when he
came up the bees attacked him again,
and would not leave him till he sank.
The nests are quite black, and more
than a yard long. The cliffs arc of
white marble, which, when broken, is
bright and sparkling, but the surface
is somewhat iscoloured by the weather.
Near the new bungalow, where are
several white temples, the cliffs are
80 ft. high. The water is said by the
people of the place to be here 150 ft.
eep. 1 m. farther the barrier rocks
intercept the stream, and no boat can
pass in the dry season. In the rains
the river rises 30 ft., and is then a
mighty torrent, and very dangerous.
About 1 in. upon the l. is an in-
scription in the Nagri character, made
1 Passengers who are pressed for time, by
telegra hing beforehand to the hotel manager
at Jub ulpore to have a carriage ready for
them at the rly. sta., may visit the rocks,
and proceed on their journey by the following
train.


36 ROUTE 1.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
by Madhu Rao Peshwa. 2 m. l. are
curious rocks called Hathi ka Panw,
“ elephant's legs,” from a fancied resem-
blance. The height of the rocks no-
where exceeds 90 ft., and though the
scenery is picturesque, it is not grand.
There is a cascade } m. beyond the
barrier rocks called the Dhuandhar
or “ Smoke Fall.” 80 yds. beyond the
bungalow is a flight of 107 stone steps,
some of them carved, which lead to
the Madanpur Temple, surrounded by
a circular stone enclosure. All round
it are figures of Parvati, with one leg
in her lap. These figures are much
mutilated, but the place is quite worth
a visit]
673 m. Katni junc. sta. Line 8.15.
to the coal-fields at Umaria 37 m., and
thence to Bilaspur on the Bengal~Nag-
pur Railway (Rte. 3). A line is pro-
jected W. to Saugar.
734 m. Sutna sta.,* D.B. (R.) A
town and British cantonment in the
Rewah state, also the headquarters of
the Bhagelkhand Political Agency. The
Umballa road branches from this point
eastward meeting the Great Dewari
Road which runs from Jubbulpore to
Mirzapur. Rewah is situated on this
road 8 m. from the junction. There
is nothing whatever to see at Sutna.
783 m. Manikpur junc. sta. From
this place the Indian midland line runs
W. to Jhansi, 181 m. (Rte. 5A).
842 m. Naini sta. 19: Close by is the
Jail, one of the largest in India, and
admirably managed. 2 m. farther the
line crosses the J umna by a fine bridge,
and enters
84.4 m. ALLAI-IABAD sta. at: (R.)
The capital of the North-West Pro-
vinces, 316 ft. above sea-level (pop.
about 177,000), is a good place to make
a halt. Travellers coming from Bom-
bay or Calcutta, between the months
of November and March, are warned
to provide themselves with warm
clothes and blankets, as they will find
it cold at Allahabad and farther north.
Allahabad is situated on the 1. bank

of the Jumna river, on the wedge of
land formed by its junction with the
Ganges, crossed by 2 bridges of boats
on the N. side of the town.
It is the seat of Government of the
North-West Provinces and Oudh.
The Fort stands near the junction of
the Ganges and the J umna. The Civil
Station, Cantonments, and City stretch
W. from this point 6 m. The present
Fort and City were founded by Akbar
in 1575 A.D., but the Aryans possessed
a very ancient city here called Prayag.
The Hindus now call it Prag. It is a
very sacred place with them, as they
believe that Brahma performed his
sacrifices of the horse here in memory
of his recovering the four Vedas from
Shankhasur. The town was visited
by Megasthenes in the 3d cent. B.o.,
and in the 7th cent. A.D. Hiouen
Thsang, the Buddhist pilgrim, visited
and described it. It was first conquered
by the Moslems in 1194 A.D., under
Shahabu-din Ghori. At the end of
Akbar’s reign Prince Salim, afterwards
the Emperor J ehangir, governed it and
lived in the fort. Jehangir’s son,
Khusru, rebelled against him, but was
defeated and put under the custody of
his brother Khurram, afterwards the
Emperor Shah Jehan. Khusru died
in 1615, and the Khusru Bagh (see
below) contains his mausoleum. In
1736 Allahabad was taken by the
Marathas, who held it till 1750, when
it was sacked by the Pathans of Farruk-
habad. It changed masters several
times, and in November 1801 it was
ceded to the British.
Allahabad was the seat of the govern-
ment of the N.W. Provinces from
1834 to 1855, when it was removed to
Agra. In 1858, after the suppression
of the Mutiny, it again became the
seat of the provincial government.
In May 1857 the all-important
station of Allahabad, with its magni-
ficent Arsenal and strong Fort, was, in
spite of the warnings of Sir James
Outram, garrisoned by a single Sepoy
regiment, the 6th, to which, on 9th
May a wing of the Ferozpur regiment
of Sikhs and, ten days later, tWo troops
of Oudh Irregular Horse, were added.
The officers of the 6th N.I. were con-


ROUTE 1.
ALLAHABAD 37
fident in the loyalty of their corps, but
fortunately a few days later 60 English
invalid soldiers were brought in from
Chunar. The history of the outbreak
at Allahabad is one of the saddest
chapters in the long list of misfortunes
which marked the commencement of
the great Mutiny of 1857. Fifteen
officers were murdered by the Sepoys.
It was an awful crisis. Had the
Sikhs in the Fort fraternised with the
Sepoys, that stronghold, with its im-
mense stores of guns and ammunition,
would have gone to swell the strength
of the rebels; but Brasyer, who com-
manded the Sikhs, drew up his detach-
ment at the main gate, and with him
were the guns manned by the English
invalid artillerymen from Chunar, and
small knots of English volunteers.
The Sepoys were overawed, disarmed,
and expelled from the Fort. Mean-
while Russell, an officer of the Artillery,
had laid trains to the magazines, and
was prepared to blow them up in case
of a reverse. While this went on
in the Fort, anarchy reigned in the
city—the jail was broken open, and
the prisoners, with the irons still
rattling on their limbs, murdered every
Christian they met. On the morning
of the 7th the Treasury was sacked,
and the 6th N.I. disbanded itself,
each man taking his plunder to his
native village. Each Sepoy carried off
3000 or 4000 rs., and many of them
were murdered by the villagers. A
Mohammedan Maulvi was ut up as
Governor of Allahabad, and) took up
his uarters in the Khusru Bagh.
011 t e 11th of June General Neill
arrived in the Fort, and on the mom-
mg of the 12th opened fire from the
Fort guns on the village of Daraganj,
and sent out a detachment of Fusiliers
and Sikhs, who burned the village and
got possession of the bridge of boats.
on the same day Major Stephenson,
with 100 men of the Fusiliers, passed
Into the Fort. Neill then scoured the
neighbouring villages, and produced
sue a terror in the city that the in-
habitants deserted en masse, and the
Maulvi fled to Cawnpore.
The Khusru Bagh, close to the
Station, and E. of it, is entered by an
old archway, nearly 60 ft. high and 46
ft.deep, over owuwithcreepers. With-
in the well- ept garden are 3 square
mausoleums. That to the E. is the tomb
of Sultan Khusrn, W. of it is a cane-
taph of Nur Jehan, who was buried at
Lahore, and farther W. that of Sahibah
Begam, wife of Jehangir. They are
shaded by some fine tamarind trees.
The mausoleum of Khusru has been
very handsome inside, and is orna-
mented with many Persian couplets,
and with paintings of trees and flowers,
which are now faded. The actual grave
is underground, but above is a cenotaph
of white marble, on a raised platform,
without inscription. To the rt. and 1.
two of Khusru’s sons are buried. In
the gardens are the reservoirs for the
water supply of the town ; and beyond
the gardens is the native quarter, con-
taining some picturesque corners. It i
is quite distinct from Canning Town,
the Euro ean quarter, which since the
time of t e Mutiny has been laid out
amongst a network of wide avenues.
All Saints’ Church, near the rly. sta.,
is a large cruciform building in the
Romanesque style. Trinity Church is
on the way to the Fort, and a little
over 2 m. to the N.W. of it. This
church contains a tablet which is valu-
able as a historical record of those who
perished in the Mutiny, and gives a list
of their names. The Roman Catholic
Cathedral, in the Italian style, is W.
of the Alfred Park.
The Muir College, to the N. of the
Alfred Park, is a fine building in the
Saracenic style. It has its name from
Sir William Muir, formerly Lt.-Govern or
of the N.W. Provinces, and author of
the Life of Mahomet. Close by is
the. Mayo Hall, or Memorial, a fine
structure, with a tower 147 ft. high.
The main hall is used for balls and
amateur theatricals.
The Club is close to the Mayo Me-
morial, and S. of it, and is reached by
the Thornhill Road.
The Thornhill and Mayne Memorial.
-—In the Park is also the Thornhill
Memorial, where are the Library and
Museum. In the Library there are
between 9000 and 10,000 books and
pamphlets.


38 ROUTE 1.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
The Fort was built by Akbar in
1575. It forms a striking object from
the river, but its “ high towers have
been cut down, and the stone ramparts
topped with turfed parapets, and fronted
with a sloping glacis. The changes
rendered necessary by modern military
exigencies have greatly detracted from
its picturesqueness as a relic of antiquity.
The principal gateway is capped with a
dome, and has a wide vault underneath
it. It is a noble entrance. The walls
are from 20 to 25 ft. high. There is
a broad moat which can be filled with
water at any time. Within the en-
closure lie the ofl‘icers’ quarters, powder
magazine, and barracks, while the old
palace, greatly disfigured by the facade
built by the English, is now utilised
as an arsenal ” (an order to enter must
be obtained from the Commissary of
Ordnance in Calcutta). The central
room is what was the Audience Hall.
“ It is supported by 8 rows of 8 columns,
and surrounded by a deep verandah of
double columns, with grou s of 4 at
the angles, all surmounted by bracket
capitals of the richest design."—J. F.
Asoka’s Pillar.~—Close to the Palace
is the Asoka'Pillar, which rises 49 ft.
5 in. above ground. It is of stone,
highly polished, and is of much interest
on account of its great antiquity. On
it are inscribed the famous Edicts of
Asoka (circa 240 13.6.), and also a record
of Samudra Gupta’s victories in the 26.
cent, and one by J ehangir, to commem-
orate his accession to the throne. There
are also minor inscriptions, beginning
almost from the Christian era. Ac-
cording to James Prinsep, the insertion
of some of these inscriptions shows
that it was overthrown, as it would
have been impossible to cut them while
the pillar was erect. It was finally
set up in 1838 by the British.
The Akshai Bar or undecaying
banian tree. —Hiouen Thsang, the
Chinese Pilgrim of the 7th cent, in de-
scribing Pmyag gives a circumstantial
description of the undecaying tree.
In the midst of the city, he says, stood
a Brahmanical temple, to which the
presentation of a single piece of money
procured as much merit as that of 1000
pieces elsewhere. Before the principal

room of the temple wasatree surrounded
by the bones of pilgrims who had sacri-
ficed their lives there.
There are a few steps leading to
a dark underground passage which goes
35 ft. straight to the E., then S. 30 ft.
to the tree. Beyond this is a s uare
aperture which the Indians say eads
to Benares. There are some idols
ranged along the passage. In the centre
of the place is a lingam of Shiva, over
which water is poured by pilgrims.
Cunningham in his Ancient Geography
of India gives an interesting sketch
of the probable changes in the locality,
and concludes : “ I think there can be
little doubt that the famous tree here
described is the well-known Akshai
Bar or undecaying banian tree, which is
still an object of worshi at Allahabad.
This tree is now situates underground,
at one side of a pillared court (or crypt)
which would appear to have been open
formerly, and which is, I believe, the
remains of the temple described by
Hiouen Thsang. The temple is situated
inside the Fort E. of the Ellenborough
barracks, and due N. from the stone
pillars of Asoka and Samudra Gupta."
As no tree could live in such a situa-
tion, the stump is no doubt renew'ed
from time to time. Close by is a dee
octagonal well flanked by 2 vaulted
octagonal chambers.
It is worth while walking round the
ramparts for a view of the Confluence
of the Ganges, which is 1% in. broad,
flowing from the N., with the mena,
1; in. broad, flowin from the W. The
Ganges is of a muddy colour, the Jumna
is bluer,’ and they meet 1 of a m. beyond
the Fort. The Mela, a religious fair of
great antiquity, to which Allahabad
probably owes its origin, occurs every
year about the month of January, when
it is said that the pilgrims have num-
bered a million persons. They come
to bathe in the sacred rivers, and en-
camp on the sandy tongue of land 1
between them.
The AkbarBund or embankment runs
from Dara Ganj N. E. of the fort. The
Old and and New Kotwalis are 1: m.
S. of the Khusru Bagh and the Rail-
1 All junctions of rivers are held sacred by
Hindus. V


ROUTE L
BENARES 39
way Station. These are well built, and
are worth looking at.
The Pioneer, one of the most im-
portant newspapers in India, is pub-
lished in Allahabad.
The Jail is at Naini, about 2 m. to
the W. of the Jumna, after crossing
over the bridge (see above).
509 m. Mirzapur sta. An important
well-built city. Pop, 82,660. Before the
opening of the East India Railway it
was the largest mart on the Ganges for
grain and cotton; much of the latter
staple is now diverted to Bombay.
There is a handsome river front with
fine ghats. The civil station is to the
NE. of the city.
931 m. Mogul Sarai junc. sta. (R.)
From this point the traveller should
visit
[BBNABBS ( Varanasi—Kan). it! The
cantonment sta. is 10 m. distant from
Mogul Sarai on the Oudh and Rohil-
cuud Rly. ; at 7 m. the Ganges is crossed
by a steel bridge nearly 2 m. in length.
There is a station called the Benares
river-station on its banks.
Benares (pop. 222,400), commonly
called Kasi by the Hindus, has been
the religious capital of India from be-
yond historical times. The most gener-
ally accepted derivation of the name,
Varanasi is from the streams Varana
(modern Bum) and Asi. The former,
a river of some size on the N. and E. of
the city ; the latter, a rivulet now em-
braced within its area.
The site of Benares has often been
changed, but there is good ground for
supposing that the first city was built
at Sarnath. The past history of this,
one of the most ancient cities in India,
is involved in obscurity. It is, how-
ever, certain that it was a most flourish-
ing and important place 6 centuries
before the Christian era, for Sakya
Muni, who was born in 638 13.0., and
died in 543 13.0., came to it from Gaya
to establish his religion, which he
would not have done had it not been
then a great centre. Many of the most
important writers of the Hindus were
first heard of at Benares. Of inter-
mediate events little is known, but we

learn from Husain Nizami's history
that in 1194 A.D. Jai Chand, Rajah of
Benares, “whose army was countless as
the sand,” was defeated and killed by
Kutbu-din, the general of Shahabu-
din Ghori. Kutbu destroyed 1000
temples, and built mosques on their
sites. From that date Benares was
governed by the Moslems, and became
part of the province of Allahabad. It
is due to the iconoclastic spirit of the
conquerors that hardly a single build-
ing can be found in Benares which
dates beyond the time of Akbar.
The ornamental brass-work which
is met with all over the world is a
specialité of Benares ; but the modern
work is far less carefully executed than
the old, which is now difficult to pro-
cure. Small idols and other images in
brass and other materials are made in
great quantities in the narrow lanes
around the golden temple. -
Shawls, silks, and embroideries
may also be purchased here.
As the finest view of Benares is
obtained from the river Ganges, the
banks of which are bordered by Ghats,
or flights of stone steps, descending to
the water from the most famous build-
ings in the city, the traveller will do
well to s end some time in a boat,
passing a ong the whole of the river
frontage, where, in the morning especi-
ally, he will see crowds of the people
coming down to bathe and drink the
water of the sacred river.
For those who are pressed for time, it
will be sufficient to see the Observatory,
the Monkey Temple, and the whole
length of the Ghats, and disembark at
the Panchganga to see the Golden
Temple. The rest may be omitted.
Particulars regarding these Ghats and
the buildings near them are given be-
low. The river and native town are
nearly 2 m. from the
Cantonment, where a detachment of
Europeans and a native regiment are
stationed. Near the Hotel is St. Mary's
Church, with some old tombs, and the
Benares Government College, a building
in the Perpendicular style, called Queen’s
college. It contains an Archaeological
Museum.
To the N. of the College is an


40 ROUTE 1.
India
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
ancient monolith, 31.1; ft. high, with
an English inscription attached. It
was found near Gazipur. On the obelisk
there is an inscription in the Gupta
character. To the E. of the grounds
are carved stones brought from Sarnath,
Bakariya Kund, and other places.
Should the traveller desire to go
first to the Raj Ghat, near the Railwa
Bridge, by the Grand Trunk road, hewi 1
pass the Nandeshwar Kothi, a residence
of the Maharajah of Benares. In this
house, Mr. Davis, Judge and Magistrate
of Benares, was attacked by the fol-
lowers of Vazir ’Ali, the deposed Nawab
of Oudh, who had just killed Mr.
Cherry, the British Resident, on the
14th of January 1799. Mr. Davis sent
his wife and two children on to the roof,
and, with a spear, placed himself at the
top of the staircase leading to it, where
he so successfully defended himself that
his assailants contented themselves with
destroying the furniture, and watching
their opportunity. Vazir 'Ali then
sent for materials to fire the house, but
Mr. Davis was rescued by the arrival
of a regiment of cavalry. The house
at present is lent by the Maharajah to
persons of rank who visit Benares.
The furniture and pictures seem to be
of Mr. Davis’s time. The garden is
pretty.
The Church Mission House at Sigra
is 1:1; m. to the W. The Church is
1 in. due S. of the rly. stat., and is
called St. Paul’s, finished in 1847.
There is an Orphanage for girls and
boys attached, also Normal and Indus-
trial Schools for Women. Thence the
traveller can drive 11 m. to the Maha-
rajah of Vijayanagram's Palace at
Belipur. Permission must be obtained
to see the house from the agent of the
Maharaj ah. There is a good view from
the terraced roof of the palace over the
Ganges, in the direction of Aurangzib’s
mosque. The Golden Temple is seen
to the E.N.E. Close to the palace on
the W. are several Jain Temples.
NATIVE TOWN.
The Durga Temple is sometimes
calledtheMonkeyTemplebyEuropeans,
from the myriads of monkeys which
inhabit the large trees near it. The
temple is about three-fifths of a mile S.
of the Vijayanagram Palace. It is
stained red with ochre, and it stands
in a quadrangle surrounded by high
walls. In front of the principal entrance
is the band room, where the priests
beat a large drum three times a day.
The central portion is supported by
twelve curiously carved pi are, on a
platform raised 4 ft. from the ground.
The doors are plated with brass, and
there are two bells. The temple and
the fine tank adjoining were constructed
by the Rani of Natre in the last cen-
tury. As Durga is the terrific form
of Shiva's wife, and is said to delight
in destruction, bloody sacrifices are
offered to her, and goat’s blood may be
seen sprinkled about.
From this temple the traveller may
proceed to the Ghats, embarking at
the Man Mandir Ghat, and rowing
slowly past in front of them. The
Ghats are here given in succession
from the W. proceeding down stream.
1A detailed description follows the
ist.
TABLE or Gnars AND BUILDINGS ADJOINING THEM.

Names of the Ghats or flights of steps
from S. to N.

,..|
. A’shi Ghat or Asi Sangam Ghat
. Lala Misr Ghat or Bachhrai Ghztt.
Tulsf Ghat . . . . .
. Rim sahib Ghat .
. Akrul Ghét.
. Shivala Ghat
. Dandi Ghat.
. Hanuman Ghat.
WQQmunpbko

Names of the Buildings adjacent to
each Ghat.
1. The Monastery of Tulsi Das, Jagannath
Temple to S. ; Durga Kund or Monkey
Temple to W.
3. Kuru Chatr Temple.
4. Image of Bhim.
6. rgau Mahal, Prince of Dihli's house.


ROUTE L
BENARES 41

Names of the Ghats or flights of steps
from S. to N.
Names of the Buildings adjacent to
each Ghat.

9. Smashan or Mashan Ghat.
. Lah' Ghat.
ll. Kedar Ghat . .
. Charak or Chauki Ghat .
Chatr Ghat or Rajah one;
Someshwar Ghat.
. Pande Ghat.
. Nand Ghat.
. Chatr Ghat.
18. Bengali Tola Ghai.
. Guru Pant Ghat.
. Chausathi Ghat .
21. Rana Ghat . .
. Munshi Ghat .
. Ahalya Bai’s Ghat.
. Sitla Ghat.
. Dasashwamedh Ghat .
. Man Mandir Ghat
Bhairava Ghat.
. Mir Ghat.
. Lalita Ghat.
. Nipal Ghat .
. Jal Satin Ghat.
Kyasth Ghat.
Manikarapika Ghat
. Sindia's Ghiit .
. Bhim ka Ghat.
. Ganesh Ghat.
. Ghosla Ghat.
. Ram Ghat . .
Panchganga Ghat-
. Durga or Kali Ghat.
41. Bindu Madhava Ghat.
. Gau Ghat . . . . . .
. Trilochana Ghat (or Pilpilla 'l‘irth) .
. Tilianala Ghat.
. Maitra Ghat.
. Prahlad Ghat.
47. Raj Ghat .
9. The Cremation Ground.
11. Kedarnzith Temple.
. Mansarovar, a tank surrounded by shrines.
13. The Chatr or Rest-house of Rajah Amrita
20. Temple of the Goddess Chausathi.
. Built by the Edna of Oodeypur.
22. A fine building at head of stairs.
25.
26.
The Observatory.
Mahalla Agast Kund (best point for em-
barking).
30. Temple of Bisheshwar or Golden Temple
and Holy Well.
33. Temple of Tarkeshwara, Well of Mani-
karanika. Cremation Ground.
34. Broken Wall.
38.
39.
Tem 1e of Ram.
Con uence of the Dhantapapa, Jar-anam-
ada, Kirnzinada, Saraswati, and Ganga,
the first four underground Aurang-
zib's Mosque, called Mfulhu Das ka
Deorha.
42.
43.
Stone figure of a cow.
Houses of the Dihli family and Cemetery
of Makhdum fiahib
47. Bridge of Boats.

The Ashi Ghat is one of the five cele-
brated places of pilgrimage in Benares.
The channel of the Ashi, which here
falls into the Ganges, is dry during the
cold weather. It is about 40 ft. broad.
The steps at this Ghat are a good deal
broken, and though one of the most
sacred, it is certainly not one of the
handsomest Ghats. This is the nearest
Ghat from which to cross to Ramnagar,
the palace of the Maharajah of Benares.
The next Ghat is the Bachhraj 01' Lalo
Misr Ghat. Here the J ains have built
two temples, which stand on the bank
of the Ganges. At the N. end of Tulsi
Ghat, which comes next, huge masses
of the building have fallen, and lie on

the river's edge. At Rao Sahib Ghat
is a huge recumbent image of Bhim,
which is said to be annually washed
away and restored. The traveller will
now pass the Akrul Ghat and come to
the Shivala Ghat. Here stands the
fort in which Ohait Sing resided. It
is a handsome building, and appears as
fresh as when first constructed. In
the upper part of the N. wall are five
small windows in a row, from one of
which Chait Sing made his escape,
when he fled from Warren Hastings in
1781. It is now called the Khali
Mahal, or “empty palace,” and be-
longs to Government. In this vast
building two companies of Sepoys and


42 ROUTE 1.
India
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
l"
three officers, who were sent by Hastings
to arrest Chait Sing, were massacred by
a mob, owing to the soldiers having
come without their ammunition. When
fresh troops reached the palace, Chait
Sing had fled. The Shivala Ghat is one
of the finest and most crowded of the
Ghats. Part of it is assigned to the
religious ascetics called Gusains. The
next is the Dandi Ghat, and is devoted
to the staff-bearing ascetics called
Dandi Pants. It is also very large.
The Hanuman Ghat, which comes next,
is large and generally crowded. At the
Smashan Ghat, pyres for cremation may
be seen being built, while bodies wrapt
up in white or red cloths lie with their
feet in the Ganges ready to be burned.
Passing the Lali Ghat, the Kedar
Ghat, which comes next, deserves at-
tention. According to the religious
books of the Hindus, the city is divided
into three great portions—Benares,
Kashi, from whence the popular name,
and Kedar. Kedar is a name of Shiva,
but it also signifies a mountain, and
especially a part of the Himalayan
mountains, of which Shiva is the lord,
hence called Kedarnath. His temple,
or rather the top of it, may be seen
from the river at this Ghat. It is
much resorted to by the Bengali and
Tailangi pop. of the city. The temple
is a spacious building, the centre of
which is supposed to be the place where
Kedarnath dwells. At the four corners
are Shivalas, with cupolas. Here are
two brass figures, hidden by a cloth,
which is removed on payment of a fee.
The walls and pillars are painted red
or white. There are two large black
figures, which re resent the dwarpals,
or janitors; each as four hands holding
a trident, a flower, a club, and the fourth
empty, to push away intruders. At
the bottom of the Ghat is a well called
the Gaul'i Kund, or “well of Gauri,"
Shiva’s wife, the waters of which are
said to be efficacious in curing fevers,
dysentery, etc. To the W. at 600 yds.
is the Mansarovar tank, round which
are 60 shrines. Manas or Mansarovar
is a fabulous tank in the Himalayan
mountains, near Kailas, or Shiva’s
heaven. Near the tank at Benares so
called is a stone 41} ft. high, and 1511: ft.

in periphery, which is said to grow daily
to the extent of a sesamum seed. In a
street to the E. of the tank are figures of
Balkrishna, or the infant Krishna, and
Chatrbhuj or Vishnu. Close by is a
Shivala, built by Rajah Man Sing, and
called Maneshwar. At the Chauki
Ghat is the place where serpents are
worshipped. Here, under a pippal
tree, are many idols and figures of
snakes. In a street close by, called
Kewal, is a figure of Durga with ten
arms.
The next Ghat, where the stairs
ascend into a large house or sarai built
by Amrit Rao for travellers, is the Chatr
or Rajah Ghat. On leaving it the
traveller reaches the Someshwar Ghat
so called from the adjacent temple of
the moon, Soma being the “moon,” and
I ’shwar “lord.” At this Ghat every
kind of disease is supposed to be healed.
Close by is an alley, in which is the
shrine of Barahan Devi, a female
Esculapius, who is worship ed in the
morning, and is suppose to cure
swelled hands and feet. From Chauki
to Pande Ghat the water is very dirty,
owing to a large drain, which pours the
filth of the city into this part of the
Ganges. There is nothing particular
to be seen at the next four Ghats, but
the one after them, Chausathi Ghat;
is one of the most ancient at Benares.
Here, in a narrow lane, is a temple to
the goddess Chausathi. Chausathi
signifies “sixty-four." The Rana Ghat,
built by the Maha Rana of Oodeypur,
is not much frequented by Hindus.
It is the special place for the bathing
of the Mohammedans. The Munshi
Ghat is the most picturesque of all the
Ghats at Benares. It was built b
Munshi Shri Dhar, Diwan of the Baja
of Nagpur. Notice the building at the
top of the stair. Of the two next Ghats
nothing particular is to be said. Sitla
Ghat signifies “small-pox Ghat,” over
which a Hindu goddess presides.
Dasashwamedh Ghat is one of the
five celebrated places of )ilgrimage in
Benares. It is specia 1y thronged
during eclipses. Here Brahma is said
to have offered in sacrifice ten horses,
and to have made the place equal in
merit to Allahabad.


ROUTE L
43
BENARES
The traveller may disembark here
and walk to the Man Mandir Ghat to
see the Observatory. This lofty build-
ing gives a fine appearance to the Ghat,
and commands a beautiful view of the
river. It was erected by Rajah Jai
Sing, the founder of Jeypore in
Rajputana, who succeeded the Rajahs
of Amber in 1693. That Rajah was
chosen by Muhammad Shahi to reform
the calendar. The remarkable results
of his astronomical observations were
formulated in tables, published by J ai
Sing, and noticed in Tod’s Rajasthan.
In these tables he corrected those of De
la Hire, and they still exist as a monu-
ment of his skill, under the name of
“Tij Muhammad Shahi.” He built
five observatories—at Delhi, Benares,
Muttra, Ujjain, and Jeypore. On
entering the Observatory the first in-
strument seen is the Bhittiyantra, or
“ mural quadrant." It is a wall 11 ft.
high and 9 ft. 1} in. broad, in the plane
of the meridian; by this are ascer-
tained the sun’s altitude and zenith
distance, and its greatest declination,
and hence the latitude. Then come two
large circles, one of stone and the other
of cement, and a stone square, used,
perhaps, for ascertaining the shadow of
the gnomon and the degrees of azimuth.
Next the Yantrasamant will be seen,
the wall of which is 36 ft. long and 4%
ft. broad, and is set in the plane of the
meridian. One end is 6 ft. 41 in. high,
and the other 22 ft. 3% in., and it
slopes gradually u , so as to point to
the North Pole. y this, the distance
from the meridian, the declination of
any planet or star and of the sun, and
the right ascension of a star are cal-
culated. There are here a double
mural quadrant, an equinoctial circle
of stone, and another Yantrasamant.
Close by is the Chakrayantra, between
two walls, used for finding the de-
clination of a planet or star ; and near
it a Digansayantra, to find the degrees
of azimuth of a planet or star.
At Bhairava Ghat is a Shivala, as
Bhairava is only a terrific form of
Shiva. The idol here is said to be the
Kotwal, or magistrate of the city,
who rides about on an invisible dog.
There is an image of a dog close to the
idol, and the confectioners near sell
images of dogs made of sugar, which
are offered to the idol of Bhairavanath.
A Brahman here waves a fan of
peacecks’ feathers over visitors to pro-
tect them from evil spirits, and they in
return must dro offerings into the
cocoa-nut shell e holds. The idol
here is of stone, with a face of silver,
and has four hands. The temple was
built in 1825 by Rajah Rao of Poona.
There are several other idols, and
among them one of Sitla, goddess of
smallpox, the offerings at which are
taken by men of the gardener caste,
as they are the professional in-
oculators of India. At this place
dogs are daily fed by a Gosain, who
has servants under him, who make up
cakes of wheat, barley, or jowari flour.
On festivals the dogs have cakes of
Wheaten flour, butter, and sugar. The
traveller will come next to the Mir
Ghat, which was built by Rustam’ Ali
Khan, Nazim of Benares. It now be-
longs to the Maharajah of Benares.
From this the Nipalese Temple is seen,
and is‘a strikingly picturesque object.
It does not resemble in the least the
Hindu temples. It is popularly called
the Nipali Kharpa.
The famous Golden Temple (see
below) is between this Ghat and the
Jal Sain Ghat.
The Kyasth Ghat is of no import-
ance. The Manikaranika Ghat, one
of the five celebrated places of Hindu
pilgrimage in Benares, is considered
the most sacred of all the Ghats, and in
November is visited by multitudes of
pilgrims. It is also at the central point
of the city, so that if a line were drawn
from it to the W., it would divide
Benares into two portions N. and S.
Just above the flight of steps is the
Manikaranika Well, and between it and
the steps is the temple of Tarkeshwara,
“ 0d of salvation,’ as Tarak signifies
“he who ferries over.” Below this
temple the bodies of Hindus are burned.
The well has its name from Mani, “a
jewel,” and Kama, “the ear,” Devi
or Mahadeo havin dropped an ear-ring
into it. During tie eclipse of the sun
it is visited by millions of pilgrims.

The well, or, more properly, tank, is


44 ROUTE 1.
I ml'ia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
35 ft. sq., and stone steps lead down to
the water. Offerings of the Bel tree,
flowers, milk, sandal-wood, sweetmeats,
and water are thrown into it ; and from
the putrefaction of these a stench arises
equal to that which ascends from the
Well of Knowledge. It may be men-
tioned that at the Cremation Ground
below the fire must be brought from
the house of a Domra, a man of very
low caste. The Domra who has the
monopoly of giving fire for cremation
is very wealthy, as fees are demanded
and given up to 1000 rs. At Tarkesh-
wara the idol is kept in a reservoir of
water. At this Ghat is the Charana-
paduka, a round slab projecting slightly
from the pavement, on which stands a
pedestal of stone : on its marble top are
2 imprints, said to have been made by
the feet of Vishnu. At the second
flight of steps of this Ghat is a. temple
to Siddha Vinayak, or Ganesh. The
idol has three eyes, is painted red, and
has a silver scalp, and an elephant’s
trunk covered with a bib, which
resembles a barber’s cloth wrapped
about a man when he is about to be
shaved. At the feet of the image is
the figure of a rat, which is the Vahana
or “vehicle ” of Ganesh.
The traveller will now proceed to
Sindia’s Ghat, which is curious from
the fact that its massive structure has
sunk several feet, and is still gradually
sinking. The temple on the left of the
S. turret is rent from top to bottom,
as are the stairs leading to the curtain,
between the turrets. It was built by
Baiza Bai, who constructed the colon-
nade round the Well of Knowledge,
but was left unfinished. Passing over
the 'next two Ghats, the traveller will
come to the Ghosla Ghat, which was
built by the Nagpur Rajah, and is very
massive and handsome. Ram Ghat
comes next, and is much frequented
by Marathas. On the steps is a very
sacred temple.
The next is the Panchganga Ghat,
beneath which 5 rivers are supposed
to meet. Above it rises Aurangzib’s
mosque, called in maps “the Minarets.”
The view from the top of the minarets
(150 ft. high) of the town beneath is
very striking.

Passing the Durga Ghat, the traveller
will come next to the Bindu Madhava.
Ghat, which was formerly dedicated to
Madhava or Krishna, whose temple
was rased by Aurangzib. The next
Ghat is the Gau Ghat, so called from
the number of cows that resort to it,
and also from the stone figure of a cow
there.
The Trilochana Ghat, also called the
Pilpilla Tirth, will next be reached.
The pilgrim bathes in the Ganges at
this Ghat, and then proceeds to the
Panchganga, and there bathes again.
There are two turrets at the Trilochana.
Ghat, and the water between them
possesses a special sanctity. Passing
the three next Ghats the traveller will
arrive at the Raj Ghat near the Bridge.
On the morning of the 1st May 1850 a
terrific explosion took lace here, owing
to a magazine fleet b owing up, when
lying at this Ghat. All the buildings
near were shattered. At the junction
of the Ganges and the Barna is a piece
of high ground which in the Mutiny
was strongly fortified, and has ever
since been called the Raj Ghat Fort.
The Golden Temple is dedicated to
Bisheshwar, the Poison God, or Shiva—
a word compounded of Vish, “ poison,"
and Ishwar, “god,” because Shiva
swallowed the poison when the gods
and demons churned the ocean. The
temple is in a roofed quadrangle, above
which rises the tower. At each corner
is a dome, and at the S.E. a Shivala.
The temple is surrounded by very nar-
row crowded streets. Opposite the en-
trance, with its finely wrought brass
doors, is a shop where flowers are sold
for offerings. The visitor may enter the
shop and ascend to the story above,
which is on a level with the three
towers of the temple. The red conical1
tower l. is that of Mahadeo's temple;
next to it is a gilt dome, and on the
rt. is the gilt tower of Bisheshwar’s
temple. The three are in a row in the
centre of the quadrangle, which they
1 These conical towers, almost universal in
Hindu temples, are called Sik'ras or Vimanahs.
The origin of their eculiar form is unknown ;
they may original y have been intended to
represent flames of fire.


ROUTE L
BENARES 45
almost fill up. They are covered with
gold plates, over plates of copper which
cover thestones. Theexpense of gilding
was defrayed by MaharaJah Ranj it Sing
of Lahore. The temple of Bisheshwar
is 51 ft. high. Between it and the
temple of Mahadeo hang nine bells from
a. carved stone framework. One of these,
and the most elegant, was presented by
the Maharajah of Nipal. The temple
of Mahadeo was built b Ahalya Bai,
Maha Rana of Indore. utside the en-
closure, and to the N. of it, is the Court
of Mahadeo, where on a latform are a
number of Lingams, an many small
idols are built into the wall. They are
thought to have belonged to the old
temple of Bisheshwar, which stood N.W.
of the present one, and was destroyed
by Aurangzib. Remains of this temple
are still to be seen, and form part of a
mosque which Aurangzib built, where
the old temple stood (see below).
In the quadrangle between the
mosque and the Temple of Bishesh-
war is the famous Gyan Kup, “Well
of Knowledge," where the Hindus
suppose that Shiva resides. The quad-
rangle itself is unpleasant, but in that
respect falls short of the well, which
is absolutely fetid, from the decaying
flowers thrown into it, notwithstanding
that it has a grating'over it, overspread
with a cloth; for in this cloth there
are large gaps, and flowers are continu-
ally falling through them. The
votaries also throw down water; and
as they are not at all particular how
they throw it, they make the pave-
ment one vast puddle, and besprinkle
their fellow-worshippers all over, so
that the clothes of many of them are
in a dripping state. It is said that
when the old temple of Bisheshwar was
destroyed, a priest threw the idol into
this well, hence its uncommon sanctity.
The platform is thron ed by men and
women, and the horri le din of gongs
and voices deafens the visitor. Crowds
of fresh pilgrims arrive incessantly;
and as numbers of cows are mixed up
in the throng, and must be treated
with great consideration, the jostling
is something terrific. The roof and
colonnade of this uadrangle were built
in 1828, by Baiza ai, widow of Daulat

Rao Sindia. To the E. of the
colonnade is a stone Nandi, given by
the Rajah of Nipal, 7 ft. high. On the
S. side of the colonnade is an iron
palisade, within which is a shrine
of white marble, and one of white
stone, and a carved stone support,
from which hangs a bell. Around are
many richly carved small temples,
particularly one to the S. of Bishesh-
war, and the gateways of the court-
yard are similarly carved, and small
gilded spires add to the picturesqueness
of the scene.
Aurangzib’s Mosque is plain and of
no interest except for a row of Hindu
or Buddhist columns in the front.
This mosque, built to insult the Hindus
in one of their most sacred localities,
has led to much animosity between
them and the Moslems. The Hindus
claim the courtyard between the mosque
and the wall, and will not allow the
Moslems to enter by the front of the
mosque, but only on one side. The
Moslems built a gateway in front of
the mosque, which still stands, but no
Moslem can enter by it, and the space
between the pillars has been built 11 .
A Ficus religiosa tree overshadows t e
gateway and the road, but the Hindus
will not suffer the Moslems to touch a
leaf of it. The British Government
acts as trustee of the mosque, and
allows certain moneys belonging to it
to be paid into the Treasury, and to be
periodically made over for the benefit
of the trust. Those who have seen
the best Mohammedan buildings will
be disappointed with this. During the
period of nearly two centuries since the
mosque was built not a stone has been
loosened. It was constructed on the
site of a magnificent temple of Mad-
hava, or Krishna. A small number of
the faithful assemble here on Fridays,
otherwise it is deserted. The inside of
the mosque is very narrow and ugly.
The traveller can ascend the central
staircase, which leads to the roof, by two
most precipitous flights of steps. There
are ropes on either side. The view from
the minarets is pictures ue.
Just outside the G01 en Temple is
the Shrine of Sanichaa', or Shani, the
planet Saturn or its regent. The


46 ROUTE 1.
India
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
image is a round silver disc, from which
hangs an apron, or cloth, which
revents one remarking that it is a
Bead without a body. A garland
hangs from either ear, and a canopy is
s read above. A few steps beyond
t is is the Temple of Annapurna, a
goddess whose name is compounded
of Anna, ‘ ‘ food, ” and Puma, “ who fills
with.” She is supposed to have express
orders from Bisheshwar to feed the
inhabitants of Benares. In front of
this temple are a number of beggars,
who pester all passers-by. It was
built about 1721 by the Peshwa of
that date, Baji Rao. There are four
shrines in this temple dedicated to the
Sun, Ganesh, Gauri Shankar, and the
monkey-god Hanuman. Near this is
the temple of Sakshi Vinayak, the
witnessing deity. It was built in 1770
by a Maratha, whose name is not
recorded. Herepilgrims, after finishing
the Panch Kosi, or five kos or 10 in.
circuit round Benares, must get a
certificate of having done so, otherwise
their labour goes for nothing. S. of the
temple to Shani is that of Shukaresh-
war, Shukar being the planet Venus
or its regent, and Ishwar “god.”
Here prayers are made for handsome
sons. Between the Temple of Anna-
purna, and that of Sakshi Vinayak is a
strange figure of Ganesh, squatting on
a platform raised a little above the path.
This ugly object is red, with silver
hands, feet, ears, and elephant’s
trunk.
After viewing too closely the vulgar
aspect of Hindu worship, and suffering
from the smells, jostlings, and noises
of the Golden Temple, it will be a re-
lief to visit the Maharajah of Vijayanar-
gram’s Female School close by. Here
are a large number of girls of all ages,
from three to eighteen, and of the
highest castes, some of them Brahmanis.
Near this is the Carmichael Library,
which was built by public subscription.
About 1 m. N. from this is the Town
Hall, a modern building of red stone.
Ramnagar and Samath.
Before visiting Ramnagar, the resi-
dence of the Maharajah of Benares,
which is on the right bank of the

Ganges, it will be well to ask permis-
sion to visit the palace. Having ob-
tained this, the traveller will drive past
the Durga Kund Temple to what is
called the Ramnagar Ghat on the W.
bank of the Ganges, opposite to a Ghat
of the same name on the E. bank,
which is overlooked by the palace.
There is a fine view from the rooms
which look on the river.
At 1 m. to the N.E. of the palace is a
beautiful tank, with flights of stone
steps to the water's edge, and a stone
casin all round. To the N. of the
tank is a temple called Sumer Mandir.
Swath—The site of old Benares,
where Buddha taught. To reach it
cross the Barna Bridge and pass Warren
Hastings’s sun-dial on E., proceed along
the Ghazipur Road to the third mile-
stone, and then turn off to the left.
Shortly after turning, two towers, one
of which stands on a hill, come in view.
In Fergusson’s Hist. of Arch. is a view
of this tower, or Tape, and also an
excellent account of it; with a re re-
sentation of the panelling. “ The est
known as well as the best preserved of
the Bengal topes, is that at Sarnath, near
Benares. It was carefully explored by
General Cunningham in 1835-36, and
found to be a stupa—viz. containing
no relics, but erected to mark some
spot sanctified by the presence of Bud-
dha, or by some act of his during his
long residence there. It is situated in
the Deer Park, where he took up his
residence, with his five disciples, when
he first removed from Gaya on attaining
Buddhahood, and commencing his mis-
sion as a. teacher. What act it com-
memorates we shall probably never
know, as there are several mounds in
the neighbourhood, and the descriptions
of the Chinese pilgrims are not suffi-
ciently precise to enable us now to dis-
criminate between them.”1
The building consists of a stone base-
ment 93 ft. in diameter, and solidly
built, the stones being clamped together
with iron to the height of 43 ft. Above
that it is in brickwork, rising to a
height of 110 ft. above the surround-
ing ruins, and 128 ft. above the plain.
Externally the lower part is relieved
1 Fergusson's Indian Architecture.


ROUTE l .
47
BUXAR—ARRAH
by eight projecting faces, each 21 ft. 6
in. wide, and 15 ft. a art. In each is
a small niche, inten ed apparently to
contain a seated figure of uddha, and
below them, encirclin the monument,
is a‘band of sculpture ornament of the
most exquisite beauty. The central
part consists of geometric patterns of
great intricacy, but combined with
singular skill; and above and below
foliage equally well designed, and so
much resembling that carved by Hindu
artists on the earliest Mohammedan
mosques at Ajmere and Delhi, as to
make us feel sure that they cannot be
very distant in date.
“In his excavations, General Cun-
ningham found, buried in the solid
masonry, at the depth of 10% ft. from
the summit, a large stone, on which
was engraved the usual Buddhist for-
mula: ‘Yedharmma hetu,’ etc., in char-
acters belonging to the 7th century.”
Dr. Fergusson writes that he is “inclined
to adopt the tradition preserved by
Captain Wilford, to the effect that the
Sarnath monument was erected by the
sons of Mohi Pala, and destroyed (in-
terrupted) by the Mohammedans in
1017 A-D., before its completion. The
form of the monument, the character
of its sculptured ornaments, the un-
finished condition in which it is left,
and indeed the whole circumstances of
the case," he continues, “render this
date so much the most probable, that I
' feel inclined to adopt it almost without
hesitation.”
Sarnath was visited by the Chinese
Buddhist pilgrims, Fa-Hian in 399 A.D.,
and Hiouen Thsang in 629-645 A.D.
The former says: “At 10 1i (2 m.) to
the N.W. of Benares is the temple,
situated in the Deer Park of the Im-
mortal." Hiouen Thsang states that to
the N.E. of Benares was a stupa, built
by Asoka, 100 ft. high, and opposite to
it a stone column “of blue colour,
bright as a mirror.” He says the
monastery of the Deer Park was divided
into eight parts, and was surrounded
by a wall, within which were balus-
trades, two-storied palaces, and 9. Vi-
hara, 200 ft. high, surmounted by an
An-molo or mango in embossed gold.
“ There were 100 rows of niches round

the stupa of brick, each holding a
statue of Buddha in embossed gold.
To the S.W. of the vihara was a stone
stupa raised by Asoka, having in front
a column 70 ft. high, on the s ot where
Buddha delivered his first iscourse.
W. of the monastery was a tank in
which Buddha bathed, to the \V. of that
another where he washed his monk’s
water-pot, and to the N. a. third where
he washed his garments. Close to the
tanks was a stupa, then another, and
then in the midst of a forest :1 third.
To the S.W. 0f the monastery at i a m.
was a stupa, 300 ft. high, resplendent
with jewels and surmounted by an
arrow." The Dhamek Stupa, the one
now existing, stands on rising ground,
and has to the W. a Jain temple sur-
rounded by an enclosure. About 40
ft. from the E. end there is a torso of
Buddha, with the Brahmanical Thread.
There are also a few carved stones. To
the W. are acres of mounds and exca-
vations, showin that there were exten-
sive buildings in that direction. At
370 ft. to the W. by S. of the Dhamek
Stupa, is a round well 50 ft. in diameter,
which the uide calls the Rani’s bath.
It is 15 ft. eep, and a torso of Buddha
lies in it.
A little to the N. of the well is Jagat
Sing’s Stupa, so called by Cunning-
ham, because Babu Jagat Sing, Diwan
of Chait Sing, excavated it to get
bricks to buil Jagatganj. The other
tower stands on a very steep mound
about 100 ft. high. The building is
octagonal, and has an Arabic inscrip-
tion on the N. side, and a well down
the centre.
The objects of interest in the Uantmz~
ment are the Mint, where the Europeans
and other Christians assembled when
the Mutiny broke out in 1857, the
yellow bungalow, where Warren Hast-
ings lived, and the sun-dial hc erected.
There is a large jail, and the necessary
offices of a large civil station]
983 m. Buxar sta.*
1032 m. Anah sta, DE. The special
interest that attaches to this spot is in
connection with an incident of the
Mutiny. After some preliminary


48 ROUTE l.
I ml'ia
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
troubles, the Sepoys at Dimpur
mutiuied on the 24th July. They then
marched to Armh, where they released
the prisoners in the jail, plundered the
treasury, and, but for the gallant re-
sistance ofi'ercd, would have destroyed
all the Christians in the place. A
serious misfortune added enormously
to the difficulties of the situation. A
relieving party of about 230 Europeans
from Dinapur fell into an ambuscade
and were nearly annihilated. In the
meantime the little party of English
at Arrah were holding out against tre-
mendous odds. They were surrounded
by 2000 Sepoys, and a. multitude of
armed insurgents, perhaps four times
that number. There were about 12
Englishmen and 50 Sikhs.
On the 27th of July the Dinapur
mutiuous Sepoys attacked the little
garrison under Vicars Boyle, the Civil
Engineer, and Hereward Wake, but
were met with such a heavy fire that
they broke into groups and sheltered
themselves by trees. The enemy had
recourse to various devices for driving
the English out, but in vain. A week
thus passed, but when the second
Sunday came round Major Vincent
Eyre, who had fought his way through
the enemy’s lines, arrived with 4 guns,
60 English gunners, and about 260 in-
fantry, and after a very critical en age-
ment against overwhelming num ers,
charged home, and the enemy broke
and fled in confusion.
The house they defended stands in
the Judge’s Compound. It is nearly a
sq., and has two stories, with a veran-
dah on three sides, supported by arches
which the besieged filled up with,
sand-bags. The lower story is a
little over 10 ft. high, and was held by
50 Sikh soldiers. The garrison dug a
well in the house, and that was all the
water they had.
At about a 1 in. from the Judge’s
house is St. Saoimr’s Church, a very
small but neat building. In this church
and in a railed enclosure near the Col-
lector's Court-house are some interest-
ing monuments and tombs of those
who fell in this gallant defence and
rescue.
Arrah is on a. branch of the Son

Canal, the great irrigation-work of
South Behar. The Ganges is crossed at
1062 m. Bankipurjunc. sta.,* D.B.,
the Civil Station of the district, forms
the western extremity of the city of
Patna (sta. 6 no. farther E.) (170,000
inhab.), which covers 10 sq. m., and
with its suburbs extends 9 in. along
the S. bank of the Ganges, but con-
tains nothing of much interest to the
traveller, except a building called the
Golah, which was built for a granary
in 1783, but has never been used for
that purpose. It is 426 ft. round at
the base, built of masonry, with walls
12 ft. 2 in. in thickness, the interior
diameter being 109 ft. It is about 90
ft. high, and might contain 137,000
tons. Inside there is a most wonderful
echo, the best place to hear which is in
the middle of the building. As a
whispering gallery there is (perhaps
no such building in the worl . The
faintest whisper at one end is heard
most distinctly at the other. As a
curiosity, if for no other reason, the
building should be kept up. The
ascent to the top is outside, by steps.
At the top is a platform 10 ft. 9 in.
round, which has a stone placed in the
centre. This stone can be lifted and
access obtained to the interior. It is
said that Jang Badahur of Nipal rode
a pony up the steps outside to the top.
Patna is a great centre for the Indigo
Trade. The Bazaars are very exten-'
sive and well worth a visit. The
Government Opium Factory is the
lar est in India.
ankipur is the junction for the
Tirhoot State Rly., N. ; the Bengal and
N.W. Rly., leading to Oudh ; and the
Patna Gaya Rly. S.
[Expedition to Gaya.
57 m. from Bankipur.
This journey will not repay the ordin-
ary traveller, but to the archaeologist or
the student of Buddhism it will be
full of interest. The district of Gaye.
contains many places of great sanctity.
The rocky hills which here run out far
into the plains of the Ganges Valley
teem with associations of the religion of
Buddhism, many of which have been


ROUTE 1.
49
EXPEDITION TO GAYA
diverted to new objects by modern
superstition. The Brahmans stamped
out the Buddhist faith, but they have
utilised its local traditions to their own
profit. At the present day the chief
pilgrims to the temple and sacred tree
at Buddh Gaya are devout Marathas,
who come to pray for the souls of their
ancestors in purgatory. The pilgrim,
before leaving his home, must first walk
five times round his native village,
calling upon the souls of his ancestors
to accompany him on his journey.
Arrived at Gaya, he is forthwith placed
in charge of a special Brahman guide.
Gaye. is a city of 80,000 inhab. At
1 m. from the station is the D.B. and,
a short way to the W. of it, the Col-
lector’s office.
About 100 yds. N. of the cemetery,
3 m. E. of the station, is a Temple,
sacred to Mahadeo, Ram, Lakshman,
Ganesh, and Hanuman, built by Rani
Indrajit, of Tikari, at a very consider-
able cost. Thence to the temple of
Bishn Pad, in Old Gaya, is 1% m. It is
difficult to approach the temple except
on foot, owing to the extreme narrow-
ness of the streets. Beyond this is the
Footsie]; of Vishnu, or the Bishn Pad,
which is 13 in. long and 6 in. broad.
It is of silver, and is enclosed in a
vessel of silver inserted into the pave-
ment, which has a diameter of 4 ft.
Here flowers and other offerings are
made.
Buddh Gaya is 7 m. S. of the city.
For the first 5 m. the road is good, but
unshaded by trees. Pass the prison,
rt. ; after 5 In. turn 1., and go for 2
m. along a country road. The Temple
of Buddh Gag/a. is of very great anti-
quity (543 13.0.), and abounds with
traditions of the life of Buddha. It
is built in a hollow, which diminishes
its apparent height. It is also shut in
by small houses. The figure of Buddha,
according to Hiouen Thsang, was of
perfumed paste, and was destroyed cen-
turies ago. Other figures of plaster
were subsequently made and also de-
stroyed. Opposite the entrance stood
a B0 tree (a pipul or Ficus religiosa).
To the l. is the place where the founder
of the present College of Mahants,
about 250 years ago, performed Tap-
[India]
asya, that is, sat surrounded by four
fires, with the sun overhead. The
ashes were preserved, and a hollow
pillar, with a. diameter of 4% ft. and
4 ft. high, rising from a sq. base was
built over them. Nearly in line with
it are three masonry tombs of Mahants.
It is known that Asoka. surrounded
the temple with a stone railing. As
much of this railing as could be found
has been restored to the position which
it is supposed to have occupied. The
railing has four bars of stone, sup-
ported by pillars at intervals of 8 ft.
The top rail is ornamented with carv-
ings of mermaids, or females with the
tails of fish, inserting their arms into
the mouths of Makarahs, that is, im-
aginary crocodiles, with large cars like
those of elephants, and long hind legs.
Below this top bar are three others,
also of stone, ornamented with carv-
ings of lotus flowers. The pillars are
adorned with carvings of various groups,
such as a woman and child, a man, with
a woman who has the head of a horse,
Centaurs, and so on. Mr. Fergusson
pronounced this to be “ the most ancient
sculptured monument in India." The
plinth of the temple is 26% ft. high,
and at the top of it is a clear space 13
ft. broad, which allowed a passage round
the tower, and also gave access to a
chamber in it. At each corner of the
platform by which the passage round
the tower was effected was a small
temple, and below, outside Asoka's
rail, were many subordinate temples.
Mr. J. 0. Oman says: “If it were
possible to ascertain by any means what
particular spot on earth is the most
sacred in the opinion of mankind,
there is every reason to think that the
majority of votes would be given in
favour of Buddh Gaya. Defaced by
time and the hand of man, transformed
a good deal through well-meant restora-
tions, the celebrated temple at Buddh
Gaya, even in its modern disguised
condition, with its 19th-centu stucco
about it, and its brand new gi t finial,
is an imposing structure, about 170 ft.
high and 50 ft. wide at its base. All
things considered, it has certainly lasted
remarkably well, the material of which

it is constructed being only well-burnt
Y E
m“


50 ROUTE 1.
India
BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
brick cemented with mud. Stone has
been used only in the door frames and
flooring. The building is lastered
with lime-mortar. It is bui t in the
form of a pyramid of nine stories, em-
bellished on the outer side with niches
and mouldings. Facing the rising sun
is the entrance doorway, and above it,
at an elevation greater than the roof of
the porch which once adorned the
temple, there is a triangular opening
to a mit the morning glory to fall upon
the image in the sanctuary."
A Burmese inscription records its
restoration in 1306-1309. Again in
1877 permission was granted them to
restore the temple, but Rajendralala
Mitra, deputed by the Lieutenant-
Governor of Bengal to inspect their
work, states that “the Burmese carried
on demolitions and excavations which
in a manner swept away most of the
old landmarks." The remains of the
vaulted gateway in front of the temple
were completely demolished, and the
place cleared out and levelled. The
stone pavilion over the Buddha Pad
was dismantled, and its materials cast
aside on a rubbish mound at a distance.
The granite plinth beside it was re-
moved. The drain'pipc and gargoyle
which marked the level of the granite
pavement were destroyed. The founda-
tions of the old buildings noticed by
Hiouen Thsang were excavated for bricks
and filled with rubbish. The revetment
wall round the sacred tree had been
rebuilt on a different foundation on the
W. The plaster ornaments on the
interior facing of the sanctuary were
knocked off, and the facing was covered
with plain stucco, and an area of 213
ft. to 250 ft. was levelled and sur-
rounded by a new wall. For further
description of the temple, refer to Raj-
endra ale. Mitra’s Buddh Gag/a, Calcutta,
1878; and Cunningham's Arch. Sur'u.
vol. iii ; and Sir Edwin Arnold’s most
delightful chapter in Iruiia Revisited,
1886, “ The Land of the Light of Asia."
To the N.W. is a small but very
ancient temple, in which is a figure of
Buddha standing. The doorway is
finely carved]
111 8 m. Mokameh junc. sta. (R.) Line

to the N. joining the Tirhoot State
Railway. To the E. the loop line of
the East Indian Railway, which follows
the banks of the Ganges, rejoins the
direct route at Khana junc., ncar Burd-
wan.
262 m. Luckeeserai junc. sta.
[Here a loop line of the E. I. Rly.
branches E. along the banks of the
Ganges via. Jamalpur, Sahebgunge,
and Tinpahar to Khana (see below),
where it rejoins the main line.]
1217 m. Madhupur junc. sta. (R.)
of the Giridih Line.
[Excursion to Parasnath
Parasnath Mountain—From Mad-
hupur sta. to Gi'm'dih sta. 24 In. by
rail, from the latter place to the foot
of mountain 18 m. by good road.
Bearers at Madhuband for the
ascent (23 hrs.) The sportsman and
the lover of mountain scenery will
enjoy a visit to this far-famed mountain
and place of pilgrimage. The numer-
ous temples, though most picturesque,
are of no great antiquity. It is 4488
ft. above sea-level, and is the Eastern
metropolis of Jain worship. According
to tradition, Parasnath, who was the
23d Tirthankar 0f the Jains, was born
at Benares, lived 100 years, and was
buried on this mountain.
Madhuband, 1230 ft., where the
bearers are procured, is at the N. side
of the mountain. Here is a Jain con-
vent on a tableland. In a clearance of
the forest, “the ap earance of the
snow-white domes an bannerets of its
temple, through the fine trees by which
it is surrounded, is very beautiful."
The ascent of the mountain is up a
pathwa worn by the feet of innumer-
able p' grims from all rts of India.
10,000 still visit the p ace annually.
The path leads through woods with
large clumps of bamboo over slaty rocks
of gneiss, much inclined and sloping
away from the mountain. The view
from a ridge 500 ft. above the village
is superb. Ascending higher, the path
traverses a thick forest of sdl (Valeria,
or Thorea, robusta), and other trees
spanned with cables of Bauhinia stems.


ROUTE 1.
51
EXCURSION TO PARASNATH
At 3000 ft. the vegetation becomes
more luxuriant, and the conical hills
of the white ants disappear. At 3500
ft. the vegetation again changes, the
trees becoming gnarled and scattered.
The traveller emerges from the forest
at the foot of a great ridge of rocky
peaks, stretching E. and W. for 3 or 4
m. The saddle of the crest (4230 ft.)
is marked by a small temple, one of
many which occupy various promi-
nences of the ridge. The view is beauti-
ful. To the N. are ranges of low wooded
hills, and the Barakah and Aji rivers.
To the S. is a flatter country, with
lower ranges and the Damodar river.
The situation of the principal temple
is very fine, below the saddle in a hollow
facing the S., surrounded by groves of
plantain and Ficus indica. It contains
little but the sculptured feet of Paras
nath and some marble cross-legged
figures of Buddha, with crisp hair, and
the Brahmanical Cord. Bears are
numerous round this spot. A conval-
escent depot for European soldiers was
established in 1858, but was abandoned,
and the officers’ quarters are now
utilised as D. B.]
1262 m. Sitarampnr junc. sta. for
Barakar, 5 m.
1268 m. Asensol junc. sta. of the
Bengal and Nagpur Railway (see
Rte. 3).
1279 m. Ranigunje sta.,* on the E.

edge of the very extensive coal-fields of
Bengal, which stretch out 384 m. to the
W., and extend under the bed of the
Damodar. The place was formerly the
property of the Rana of Burdwan, hence
the name. More than 30 species of
fossil plants, chiefly ferns, have been
found in the coal, of similar species to
those in the Yorkshire and Australian
coal. The mines afford regular employ-
ment to a large number of men and
women, chiefly of the Beauri tribe. A
vast number of boatmen on the Damo-
dar river are employed in carrying coal
to Calcutta. The coal is piled on the
banks of the river, and can be carried
down only while the Damodar is in
flood. The mines are said to have been
accidentally discovered in 1820 by Mr.
Jones, the architect of Bishop’s College
at Calcutta. The hills of Chatna,
Bihari Nath, and Pachete look well
from Ranigunje.
1325 m. Khana junc. ate. for the
loop line (see Rte. 19).
1334 m. Burdwan sta. (R.)
1376 m. Hooghly junc. sta. for the
Eastern Bengal Railway by the fine
Bridge over the Hooghly (Hugli) river.
1379 m. Chandernagore sta. (see
Excursion from Calcutta).
1400 m. Calcutta, Howrah ter-
minus (see next page).


52 CALCUTTA crrv India
CALCUTTA CITY >0:
CONTENTS.
PAGE PAGE
Arsenal . . . 58 Gardens-
Asiatic Society . . . . 57 Botanical 61
Belvedere (Lt-Governor’s Palace) . 60 Eden . . . 54
Bishop‘s College . . 59 Government House . 54
Brahma Somaj . . . . . 60 High Court . 55
Calcutta University Senate House 56 Hospitals . . . . . . 59
Cathedrals— Hotels (see Index and Directory).
Roman Catholic . 60 Legislative Council Office . . 55
St. Paul's 58 Maiden or Esplanade . 54
Churches— Metealfe Hall . 53
Armenian 60 Military Prison 53
Greek . . . 60 Mint . . . 57
Old Mission . . . . 59 Missions . . . . . . . 59
St. Andrew's or Scotch Kirk 60 Mosque of Prince Ghulam Muhammad . 60
St. J ohn’s (Old Cathedral) . 59 Museums—Economical . . 57
St. Thomas's Roman Catholic 60 Indian . . . . 56
Clubs (see Index and Directory). Palaces—King of Oudh‘s . 61
Custom House . . . 54 Lt.-Governor’s (Belvedere) . 60
Dalhousie Institute . . 57 Post Office . . . . . 57
Engineering (Civil) College 62 Public Buildings . 54-58
Esplanade, or Maids-n . 54 Race-course . . . . . . 60
Forts— Secretariat 56
William . 57 Statues . . 54
Old Fort 58 Telegraph Office 57
Garden Reach . 60 Town Hall . 55
The Approach from the Sea, Hooghly
River, and Landing-place at Calcutta.
—At Pilot’s Ridge during the S.W.
monsoon, that is from the 15th of
March till the 15th of September, there
is a floating Light-vessel, which is a
guide to vessels making the Hooghly
Pilot Station. At this point the
traveller enters its waters. The Cal-
cutta Pilots are better paid, better
educated, and occupy a higher position
than others of their profession. The
Hooghly is a most dangerous and diffi-
cult river to navigate. There is in the
first place the dread of cyclones, which
may take place in any month except
February, when they are unknown.
The worst months are May and Octo-
ber. In some of these cyclones a storm
wave has covered the adjacent shores,
and many thousands of persons have
perished. The cyclone of 1874 covered
Sanger Island with water. But in
addition to the possible danger of
storms, there is the normal one of
shoals and tides. New shoals are con-
tinually forming, and nothing but a
A

daily experience of the river can enable
a pilot to take a vessel up safely.
There is, for instance, the most danger-
ous shoal called the “James and Mary."
The real origin of the name dates from
the wreck of a vessel called the Royal
James and Mary on that bank in 1694.
It appears first under this name in a
chart dated 1711. Upon this shoal
many other wrecks have taken place.
The Hooghly cannot be navigated at
night, nor until the tide makes can it
be ascended. It is usual, therefore, to
anchor near Saugar Island until oc-
casion serves.
Saugar Island—A gathering of from
100,000 to 200,000 pilgrims from all
parts of India, but principally from
the Bengal districts, takes place in the
early part of January, the date of the
great Bathing Festival of Bengal. The
bathing ceremony as a rule lasts for
three days, though the fair lasts for a
couple of days longer. The site of the
fair is a sandbank on the S. shore of
the island, facing the surf, just to the












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i ‘ . ere (s a Temple 13%},
here known in the locality by the name
1 From Calcutta.




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iplersonfand Vannas for luggagds. to t
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fair _is a sandbank or; the S: shore of
the Island, facing the surf, just to the
'Q¢JIIIII


THE APPROACH TO CALCUTTA
.53
W. of the junction of Pagoda Creek
with the bay. An offering is made to
the sea of cocoa-nuts, fruits, or flowers,
and especially of five gems—a pearl,
diamond, an emerald, a topaz, and a
piece of coral worth a rupee or two.
Formerly children used to be cast into
the sea. After bathing, the pilgrims
go to the spot where the Pholu emblem
of Kapila Muui is set up.
Sport is abundant. Deer, wild boar,
and a great variety of sea-birds are
found throughout the year.
Tigers are to be met with in the
jungle. The best way to get about is
in a boat, sportsmen landing when
they so desire for shooting, and return-
ing at night. In this way good sport
may be had ; but without previous ex-
perience too much must not be expected.
The Lighthouse, of iron, 76 ft. high,
was commenced in 1808. It is at
Middleton Point, at the S.W. end of
the island, 570 yds. from low-water
mark.
The mouth of the Hooghly is about
90 m. from Calcutta.
At 40 m.+ is the town of Kalpi, D.B.,
on the rt. oing up stream.
It contains a large market-place for
the sale of rice grown in the interior,
and there is a road from it to Calcutta.
At 30 m.,-t as the crow flies, is Dia-
mond Harbour, marked by a large
number of trees, where the E. I. Com-
pany’s ships used to anchor. There is
a Custom House here, and the officers
board shi s proceeding up the river.
Rly. to Ca outta, 3 0r 4 trains daily, in
3 to 4 hrs. At 28 m.+ is the Rupnarayan
river, which flows into the Hooghly
on the l.
20 m.'|‘ Tamluk is passed 1. (pop.
6000). A very famous city in ancient
times, and a maritime port of the
Buddhists, where the Chinese pilgrim
Fa Hian embarked for Ceylon in the
beginning of the 5th cent. AJ). Hiouen
Thsang 250 years later speaks of it as
an important Buddhist harbour. It
is now a long way from the ocean, but
reached by the tide. There is a Temple
here known in the locality by the name
1 From Calcutta.

of Dargah Bhama or Bhenna. It was
originally a Buddhist temple. The
shrine is surrounded by a curious triple
wall. The foundation of the place con-
sists of large logs covered with bricks
and stones to a height of 30 ft. covering
the whole area.
The Damodar river enters the
Hooghly District from Burdwan, and
flows past the villages of Am ta E. and
Baghnan W. to Mahishrak a Ghat,
where it is crossed by the Ulubaria
Midnapur Canal, and flows into the
Hooghly opposite Fulta. It is navi-
gable as far as Ampta, which is 25 m.
from its month, by boats of from 10 to
20 tons. By this river.large quantities
of‘coal are brought from the Ranigunje
mines.
Fulta is a large villa e just opposite
themouth of the Damoiir. It is the site
of a Dutch factory, and is the place to
which the English ships sailed on the
capture of Calcutta by Sirajudaulah.
At 15 m. 8.1- U1ubaria,a small town
on the l. of the Hooghly, is passed.
Here the main road from Calcutta to
the temple of J agannath at Puri crosses
the Hooghly, and here begins the Mid-
napur High-Level Canal. A few m. N.
of this on the rt. are the extensive Akra
brick-fields belonging to Government.
At 7 m.+ the first view of the city
is obtained, and then Garden Reach
is passed rt.; the Botanical Gardens
and Bishop’s Colle e on the l. The
river is now crow ed with ships at
anchor, many rows deep, all the way
up to the Landing- lace. The view is
very strikin , and t e forest of masts,
the plain of t e Esplanade, the Fort and
the fine buildings in the background,
all give the idea of a great commercial
capital.

Arrival at CALGU'I'I'A.
Every vessel that arrives at Calcutta
must be berthed by the Harbour-master,
and should much delay take place,
passengers may land at Prinsep’s Ghat,
which is just opposite the S. extremity
of Fort-William. The fee is 2 annas for
each person, and 4 annas for luggage.
After getting out of the boat there is a
walk of about 40 yds. to the cab


54
India.
CALCUTTA CITY
(gharm'e) stand. This Ghat is marked
by a pavilion of stone, supported by
pillars, and inscribed “ James Prinsep.”
The general landing-place is a little to
the N. of the Fort, and each great
Steamship Company has one of its own.
The passenger must take with him
a pass from the Custom-House officer,
without which he may not ut his
luggage into a carriage. From t e jett
to the street is about 100 yds., throng
the enclosure of the Custom House.
The Population of the city and
suburbs is 840,000.
The Esplanade, or Maiden, is a
magnificent open space of about 1% m.
diameter.
Ochterlony Monument—Not far from
Government House, in the centre of
the Esplanade, is a column 165 ft. high
to Sir David Ochtcrlony, Resident in
Malwa and Rajputana in 1823. It has
two galleries at top, from which a fine
view over Calcutta is obtained. W. of
it are several statues.
Statues. —First comes the bronze
equestrian statue of Lord Hardinge. He
is bareheaded, with his sheathed sword
by his side. It is a good likeness, and
well executed. W. of this statue is
that of Lord Lawrence, standing bare-
headed. To the E. of Lord Hardinge’s
statue is an equestrian bronze statue of
Earl of Mayo. On the Chowringhee
Road side is the equestrian statue of
Sir James Outram, by Foley, R.A. He
is represented bareheaded, with a drawn
sword in his right hand. His horse is
violently reined in. Beneath is an in-
scription.
At the N.W. corner of the Esplanade,
lining the Strand, are the Eden
Gardens, for which Calcutta is indebted
to the Misses Eden, Lord Auckland’s
sisters ; here a band plays every even-
ing. On the S. side is a fine marble
statue to Captain Sir William Peel,
of HMS. Shannon, Commander of the
Naval Brigade in the Indian Mutiny.
On the N. side of the Gardens is the
statue of Lord Auckland.
Standing picturesquer by the water-
side is a Burmese Pagoda, brought from
Prome and set up in 1856. Close to
the Gardens is the Ground of the Cal-

cutta Cricket Club. There is a good
drive along the river side from the
Gardens past Fort-William to Belve-
dere, the Lieut.~Governor’s residence,
and another E. from the Gardens to
Government House. There is also a
drive on the S. side of the Es lanade
to the Cathedral and Chowring ee.
A little to the N. is Babu's Ghat,
named from Raj Chandra Das, who
constructed it. There is a handsome
colonnade with Doric pillars.
Government House stands in a
garden of 6 acres. Begun 1799 by com-
mand of Lord Wellesley (arch. Captain
Wyatt). The design is copied from
that of Kedlestone Hall, Derbyshire,
built by Adam, and consists of a central
building with four wings connected
with the centre by galleries. The
building stands N. and S., and the
grand entrance faces the N. To the
rt. on entering, beneath the orch, is
a finely-executed white marb e statue
of the Marquis Wellesley. Close by are
portraits of Lords Canning, 1856-62,
Hastings, 1813-23, and Mayo, 1869-72.
The Dining-room is of white chunam
with a floor of veined white marble.
On either side are six well-executed
marble busts of the Caesars, taken from a
French ship during the war. The
Throne-room is so-called from its con-
taining the throne of Tipu. The pic-
tures are, the Queen seated, by Sir George
Hayter, a most indifferent picture ;
Queen Charlotte, standing ; next George
III.,—-both supposed to be by Hudson,
the master ofSir Joshua Reynolds. Next
is General the Hon. Arthur Wellesley,
1803, by Home, R.A., one of the best
in the collection, and extremely inter-
esting. On the way to the breakfast-
room, pass E. through a curved passage
to the Council-room. In this passage
are three full-length portraits—Lord
Teignmouth, 1793-98, The Earl of
Ellenborough, 1842-44, and Lord
Metcalfe, 1835-39, the well-known
likeness by Hayes.
At the end of the passage is the
Council-room. The ictures are as
follows: The Earl of Minto, 1807-13 ;
Sir Eyre Coote (over the centre door) ;
Marquis Cornwallis, 1786-98-1805;


PUBLIC BUILDINGS
55
Lord Hardinge, 1844-48, a Z-length
portrait, in blue undress, wearing a
Star ; Warren Hastings, 1772 - 85,
with a motto, “ Mens aequa in arduis,"
at the top,—a fine picture. Over the
2d door rt. is The Earl of Elgin and
Kincardine, 1862-63, a i-length. Over
the window, The Earl of Auckland,
1836-42, a §-length. Mr. John Adam,
1823, a fine picture b Sir Thomas
Lawrence. Marquis Whilesley, 1798-
1805, in peer's robes. Over a window
Lord Clive, g-length, wearing Riband
of the Bath, by Nathaniel Dance.
There are also pictures of Louis XV.
and his Queen, perhaps by Dela Roche ;
of Lady William Bentiuck, by Beech ;
of the Nawab S’aadat ’Ali Khan, by
Chinnery; the Shah of Persia, 1798;
J aswant Sing, Maharajah of Bhurtpur,
by Anger; and the Amir of Kabul, by
W. M. White.
Above the dining-room and the ad-
joining rooms is a splendid ballroom.
The floor is of polished teak, and the
ceilings are beautifully panelled, after
designs by Mr. H. M. Locke. The
chandeliers are said to have been cap-
tured with the busts of the Caesars and
the portrait of Louis XV. from the
French. It is believed that they were
all taken from the same ship, and were
a present from the French King destined
for the Nizam of Haidarabad. In the
S. anteroom is another picture of the
Marquis Wellesley. On a table are the
subsidiary treaty of Haidarabad, 1798,
the partition treaty of Mysore, 1799,
and subsidiary treaty of Seringapatam,
1799.
The extensive rounds are well kept.
40 yds. from t e verandah on the
ground-floor is a fine brass 32- ounder,
taken at Aliwal, and inscribe in Gur-
mukhi. On either side is a 6-pounder
brass tiger-gun, taken from Tipu. On
the N. side is a large brass gun, which
is inscribed “Miaui, 17th February,"
and also “Hyderabad, 30th of March
1843.” On the N. side is another, with
a carriage representing a dragon. There
is also a small brass gun to the N.W.,
curious on account of its extreme age.
The Town Hall. —This fine building
stands W. of Government House. It was

built by the inhabitants of Calcutta in
1804, and ,cost £70,000. The style is
Doric, with a fine flight of steps lead-
ing to a portico on the S. The car-
riage entrance is to the N. under a
portico. The centre of the building
is occupied by a sa100n 162 ft. long,
and 65 ft. broad. In the S. front is a
central room 82 ft. long, by 30 ft broad,
and two smaller rooms. In the S. vesti-
bule is a marble statue of Warren
Hastings, by R. Westmacott, R.A.
He stands between a Mohammedan and
a Hindu. At the W. end of the lower
saloon is a marble statue by J. Bacon,
junr., of the Marquis of Cornwallis.
This statue was erected by the British
inhabitants of Bengal, 1803 A.D. In
the vestibules are busts of C. B. Green-
law, Esq., and John Palmer, Esq., and
portraits of Lord Lake, Lord Gough,
Sir C. Metcalfe, Sir H. Durand, Dwar-
kanath Thakur, Bishop Wilson, Mr.
Cameron, Mr. Wilberforce Bird, Sir
Henry Norman, and other distinguished
men. There are also full-length por-
traits of the Queen and Prince Albert,
presented by Her Majesty to the city
of Calcutta.
Op osite the Hall, about 60 yds. oil“,
is a ronze statue of Lord William
Bentiuck, with an inscription by Lord
Macaulay.
The Legislative Council Oflice is
close by to the N.W. The S. front is
adorned with Corinthian columns.
The High Court is after the model
of the town hall at Ypres. The Chief
Justice's Court is in the SW. corner.
The Court of First Instance is at the
S.E. corner. In the E. face is the
Barristers' Library. The Attorneys'
Library is in the E. corner; and here
is a portrait of Justice Norman. In
the Court of First Instance, which is
also used as a Criminal Court when
required, are portraits of Sir Wm. Bur-
roughs, by Lawrence, 1818; Sir Fred.
Workman M‘Naghten, by Chinnery,
1824; and Sir Elijah Impey, Knt., by
Kettle, 1778. The next room contains
a picture of Shambu Nath Pandit, the
first Indian Judge, a native of Cashmere.
In the Chief Justice’s Court are 3 pic-
tures—Sir E. Impey, by Zofi'any, 1782,


56
India
CALCUT'I‘A CITY
in red robes, standing ; Sir H. Russell,
by Chinnery, 1872, robed in red; and
Sir John Anstruther, 1805. In the
centre of the E. side is a statue of Sir
Edward Hyde East, 1821. In the
Judges’ Library are six pictures—
Justice Trevor, H. B. Haring-ton, and
Sir John Colvin, who died at Agra.
Opposite are Sir Ed. Ryan, Sir Robert
Chambers, and Sir Lawrence Peel.
There is a garden in the centre quad-
rangle, and a fountain.
The Secretariat—This noble build-
ing stands on the N. side of Dalhousie
Square, and occupies the site of the
Old Writers' Buildings, where so many
illustrious Indian statesmen com-
menced their public career.
Calcutta University Senate House.
-—On the N.W. of College Square are
Presidency College, Hare School, and
the Calcutta University. The Uni-
versity Senate House is a grand hall
120 ft. x 60 ft., in which the Convoca-
tions for conferring degrees take place.
It has a portico, supported by 6 lofty
pillars. Close by is the Hare School,
which is self-supporting,—itwas erected
out of the sur lus fees of students.
The Hindu Co lege was founded in
1824, and opened in 1827. The total
cost was 170,000 rs. In the year 1855
it was merged in the Presidency College.
The foundation stone of the new build~
ing of this College was laid in 1872 by
Sir George Campbell.
The Indian Museumptr1 27 Chow-
ringhee Road, is an immense building,
and contains a very fine collection of
Fossils and Minerals, 9. Geological
Gallery with rich specimens, and a
Library ; but the most important
feature is the Gallery of Antiquities,
well worth inspection, particularly the
Buddhist remains brought from the
tope at Bharhut (see Fer-gusson’s Hist.
of Arch.) ; also those from Muttra and
Gandhara (Panjab), etc. Some display
exquisite feeling, and are executed with
a vigour and grace worthy of the
Greeks. The composition of the figures
and the representations of the drapery
are very remarkable.
1 There is an excellent catalogue.

Amongst other line objects from
Muttra notice M5, a figure of Buddha,
6 ft. high, with a halo behind the head,
carved with floral devices. In the
Gandhara Collection notice amongst
many others G 81 a to g, 7 seated winged
male human figures; G 95, a ortion
of a frieze representing 6 nake boys,
quite classic in design ; G 103, adomestic
scene, suggesting the Stable at Beth-
lehem.
The archaeologist will find here
selected pieces from the most famous
ancient buildings in India. There are
interesting fragments of Buddhist art
from the caves of Orissa, from Sanchi,
and Buddh Gaya, from Muttra, and
Sarnath, near Benares, and great num-
bers of other sculptures.
Amongst the Siwalik Fossil Remains,
observe the Hyaenarctos or Hyaena-Bear ;
the Amphicyon, a dog-like animal as
large as the Polar bear ; the Machairodus
or Sabre-tooth tiger, whose canine teeth
were 7 in. long; also the Siwalik
cat, which was at least as large as a
tiger,-—it is distinguished by a ridge
running along the upper part of the
skull. Amongst the American Eden-
tata remark the Megalonyx, long-nailed
animal, and the Glyptodon, a 'gantic
armadillo, whose armour was al of one
piece, so that it could not roll itself up.
There is the skeleton of a Megatherium
brought from America, and one of an
elephant 11 ft. high ; also of Hudson’s
antelo , whose two horns seen in a line
were t on ht to belong to a unicorn.
Amongst iwalik birds there are the
shank-bone and the breast-bone of a
wading-bird as big as an ostrich. This
bird has been called the Megaloscelornis,
and these bones are the only ones
belonging to this species existing in
the world. In the Upper Palaeonto-
logical Gallery there are many bones
of the Dinornis. Amongst the reptiles,
remark a Magar or crocodile, from
Matlah, 18 ft. long, and a snake of the
Python species, also of that length.
There are the jaws of the Balaenoptera
indica, which must have belonged to a
fish between 80 ft. and 90 ft. long.
Observe also the remains of the Crow-
dilus crassidens, an extinct species of
enormous dimensions. There is also


PUBLIC BUILDINGS
57
a specimen of the Siwalik Colossochelys,
a. gigantic tortoise of prodigious size.
It will be noticed that whereas all the
species and many of the enera of the
Siwalik Mammals andBir s are entirely
different from those inhabiting the
earth, all the genera of the Reptiles
have living representatives in India.
The Collection of the Fossil Vertebrata
of the Siwaliks is the most complete
and comprehensive in the world.
As to Minerals, it may be said that
most of the diamonds exhibited are
Indian, from Bundelkund, S. India,
and Sambalpur. There are also models
of the most celebrated diamonds, such
as the Regent, the most perfect brilliant
in existence, the Koh-i-Nur, the Great
Nizam, etc., all of which were obtained
in India. Amongst the Meteorites,
remark the model, N o. 16, of one which
fell on the 23d of January 1870, at
Nedagolla, 6 m. S. of Parbatipur, in
the Madras Presidency. The original
weighed over 10 lbs. There is a
portion of the original weighing 7 oz.
260'8 gr., numbered 90, in the collection.
It is the only Indian meteoric iron here.
The Economical Museum—Those
who desire to study the products of
the country and see the finest samples
of native manufactures should visit
this section of the Museum. It occu-
pies a quadrangular building on the
Ghowringhee Road facing the Maiden.
It was here that the Calcutta Inter-
nafional Exhibition of 1883-84 was
he d.
The Mint is at the W. end of Nim-
tolla Street; built 1824-30 (archit.
Major W. N. Forbes). The style is
Doric, the central portico being a copy
in half size of the Temple of Minerva
at Athens. The area of the building
and grounds is 18% acres.
The Dalhousie Institute stands on
the S. side of Dalhousie Square, and
was built “ to contain within its walls
statues and busts of great men." The
foundation-stone was laid in 1865, but
the entrance portico preceded it, having
been built in 1824. It contains a
statue of the Marquis of Hastings, by
Chantrey.

The hall is lined with marble, and
measures 90 X 45 ft. It contains a statue
of the Mar uis of Dalhousie, by Steell,
R.S.A., an one of the Right Hon.
James Wilson, and a bust of Edward
E. Venables, indigo planter, Azimgarh,
by the same artist. Also busts 0f
Brig-General Neil, C.B., and of Sir
Henry Havelock, by Noble ; and busts
of Sir James Outram and General John
Nicholson, who led the storm at Delhi,
by Foley.
The Asiatic Society is at 57 Park
Street. This institution was established
in 1784. Visitors can be elected mem-
bers. The Asiatic Researches began
to be issued in 1788, and continued
to be published until 1839. The Jour-
nal began in 1832, and from that time
to 1839 both publications were issued.
The curiosities have all been sent to
the Indian Museum, where the Society
was to have had rooms. This having
been denied to them, Government made
a grant to the Society of 1* lakhs in
compensation. The Library consists
of 15,000 volumes, and there is a. large
collection of coins, copper plates, pic-
tures, and busts.
The Post Ofice (opened 1870) is a
fine building. It stands on the site
of the S. face of the Old Fort, and looks
E. on Dalhousie Square, formerly Tank
Square, and S. on Koilah Ghat Street.
It cost 630,510 rs., and occupies an area
of 103,100 sq. ft. At the S. E. corner
is a lofty dome. According to the
Government plan, the site of the Black
Hole is marked by the third and fourth
pillars in the side fronting the Square,
counting from N. to S.
The Telegraph Ofice is also a fine
building. It stands at the S. corner
of Dalhousie Square.
Fort-William, S. of the Maiden, was
fortified and received its name from
the then King of England, but its site
was changed in 1757, after the battle
of Plassey, from that which is now
occupied by the Post Office to the river-
bank, where Clive commenced a new
and much more formidable fortress,
which was finished in 1773, and cost
2,000,000, sterling. It is an irregular


58
India
CALC UTTA CITY
octa on, of which five sides look land-
war and three on the river. It is
surrounded by a fosse 30 ft. deep and
50 ft. broad, which can be filled from
the river. There are now two regi-
ments, one English and one N. I., and
one battery of artillery. There are six
gates—Chowringhee, Plassey, Calcutta,
and Water Gate, as well as St. George's
and the Treasury Gate. Opposite the
Water Gate is the Gwalior Monument,
erected by Lord Ellenborough, in 1844,
in memory of the officers and men who
fell in the Gwalior cam aign of 1843.
It was designed by Co onel W. H.
Goodwyn, Beng. Eng. It is of brick,
faced with J eypore marble, surmounted
by a metal cupola made from guns
taken from the emeny. In the centre
the names of those who fell at the
battles of Maharajpur and Paniar are
engraved on a sarcophagus. There is
also a sallyport between Water and St.
George’s Gates. Entering by Chow-
ringhee Gate, past the Governor’s resid-
ence, used as a Soldiers’ Institute and
Garrison School, is the Fort Church,
St. Peter's, built in 1835. The Catholic
Chapel, St. Patrick’s, was built in 1857.
The Military Prison is built on a
massive storehouse, on which is an in-
scription relating to the amount of
rice and grain deposited there by the
authorities in 1782. The Arsenal is
worth a visit. The Fort commands
the river, and is a. formidable defence
to Calcutta. '
The remains of the 01d Fort—The
first F ort-William lay between Banks~
hall Street, now Koilah Ghat Street,
on the S., and Fort Ghat Street, now
Fairlie Place, on the N. Its W. side
fronted the river. 80 ft. W. of the
Post Office is all that remains of the
S. curtain of the Fort,—a row of arches
10 ft. high in the wall. The place is
now used as a workshop, with stables
at the W. end. According to some
authorities, the Black Hole was at the
second arch where you enter.
Metalch Hall, close by the S.W.
corner of Hare Street, was founded in
honour of Sir Charles Metcalfe by public
subscription. The design is copied
from the portico of the Temple of the
Winds at Athens. The entrance is on

the E. under a roofed-in colonnade. The
building contains the Public Library
and the offices of the A icultural and
Horticultural Society. n the Library,
which has passed through a period of
shameful neglect, there are many rare
and valuable works.
St. Paul’s Cathedral, on the E. of
the Maiden, is about 1 m. from the Fort
(archit., Major W. N. Forbes). The
style is Hindu-Gothic, or spurious
Gothic modified to suit the climate of
India. In the vestry of the Cathedral
is a large folio MS. volume entitled
“History of the Erection of St. Paul’s
Cathedral,” which contains a plan of
the Cathedral at p. 265. Over the
porch is a library, left to the public by
Bishop Wilson, and here is an ex-
cellent bust of that Bishop. The E.
window represents the Crucifixion,
designed by West. It cost £4000, and
was given by the Dean and Chapter of
Windsor. It was intended to be given
by George III. to St. George’s Chapel,
Windsor. Beneath it are mosaics.
The Communion Plate was given by
the Queen. The building cost £50,000,
of which the Bishop gave £20,000, half
of which, however, went to endowment.
The W. central window is a memorial
to Lord Mayo.
On the 1. side of the vestibule is a
black marble tablet to 16 officers of the
Bengal Engineers, who fell during
the Indian Revolt in the years 1857-
58. It is ornamented with 16 bronze
medallions, representing a well-known
and gallant 'incident in the siege of
Delhi—the blowing up of the Cashmere
Gate by Lieutenant Salkeld. Next is
a tablet to 15 officers who fell in the
Bhutan cam aign. Next is a very
elaborate an peculiar monument, in
memory of John Paxton Norman, of
the Inner Temple, officiating Chief
Justice of Bengal, who was assassinated
on the steps of the Town Hall when
entering the High Court on 20th Sep-
tember 1871. Next is a tablet to 7
officers of the 68th Regiment N.I.,
“ who died during the Mutiny of the
Native Troops, and subsequent opera-
tions, from 1857 to 1859 ; some on the
field of battle, some by the hands of


CHURCHES
59
their own followers, others from disease;
all doing their duty."
Then follows a tablet to Mr. William
Ritchie of the Calcutta Bar and Inner
Temple, a member of the Council of
the Governor-General. The inscription
on the tablet is by Thackeray, who was
a cousin of Mr. Ritchie’s. On the left
is a tablet to Sir H. M. Lawrence.
The tablet is adorned with a medallion
portrait in white marble. In the centre
of the left wall of the passa e from the
vestibule to the transeptsan body of the
church is a monument to Lord Elgin.
In the S. E. corner of the S. transept
is the tomb of Lady Canning, brought
from Barrackpur. It consists of a. base
of white marble with a sarcophagus,
on which is inlaid a cross with flowers.
Besides these there are commemorative
tablets to many brave officers who
gave their lives freely in the perform-
ance of duty in various parts of India.
St. J ohn's Church, the Old Cathedral.
-—To the W. of Church Lane before
coming to the General Post Office.
“ Council House Street ” is written on
the SE. gate pillar. The compound is
shaded with trees. Outside the church
to the N. of the W. entrance is a
domed pavilion about 50 ft. high, with
twelve pillars. It is said to have been
erected in commemoration of those who
fell in the Rohilla war, but strangely
enough there is no inscription.
The W. vestibule has on the l. a
large picture of the Last Supper, painted
and presented to the church by Sir John
Zofi'auy, in which the Apostles are all
portraits of certain well-known inhabit-
ants of Calcutta. The head of Our
Saviour is said to have been taken from
a Greek clergyman, called Parthenio,
and St. John from Mr. Blaquire, the
well-known police magistrate. In this
church and its compound are the oldest
and most interesting tablets to be found
in Calcutta.
In the compound in the pavilion,
at the N. end, is a tablet to William
Hamilton, who, in 1717, having cured
the Emgror Farrukhsiyar, obtained
for the . I. Company the right of
importing their goods free of duty,
an other great privileges.

Close to this is a tablet to Job Char-
nock, one of the first Governors of
Bengal, and the founder of Calcutta.
A few yards to the S. is the tomb of
Admiral Watson, who with Clive re-
took Calcutta. It has a large square
base supporting an obelisk, inscribed
to his memory.
The Old Mission Church. -- This
Church is called the Pooranah Girjah,
or Old Church, by the natives. This,
with the parsonage and the office of
the Church Missionary Society, is in a
pretty compound in Mission Row. It
is 125 ft. long from E. to W., and 81 ft.
10 in. broad, and seats 450 persons. It
was built by the celebrated missionary
Johann Zacharias Kiernander, who was
born at Azted, in Gothland, Sweden,
in 1711, and educated at the University
of Upsal. Being offered a post as mis-
sionary, he left England in 1758, and
opened a school in Calcutta. His
second wife on her death left valuable
jewels, with which he founded a school.
He called his Church Beth Te hillah,
“House of Prayer." When b ind he
was deceived into signing a bond which
ruined him. The church was seized by
his creditors, but redeemed by Mr.
Charles Grant for 10,000 rs. He then
went to Chinsurah, and died there in
1799. There is a good engraving of
him in the Mission Room, with an in-
scription in German. There are many
interesting tablets in the church, par-
ticularly one to Mr. Charles Grant, and
one to the Rev. Henry Martyn, also to
Bishop Dealtry of Madras, to Bishop
Wilson, and to an Arab lady of distinc-
tion who was converted to Christianity.
Missions of the Church of England.
—The Oxford Missimt, 42 Cornwallis
Street, works chiefly among the high-
caste natives, and has charge of Bishop’s
College, 8. Boys' High School, and
Industrial School.
S.P.G., headquarters Bishop's Col-
lege, Lower Circular Road; Mission
Church, St. Saviour’s, Wellesley Square,
with a Boarding School.
S.P. G. Ladies’ Assomkztion have
charge of the Milman Memorial School
for Girls.
Sisters of St. John (Clewcr) have


60
I 11 did
CALCUTTA CITY
charge of the Government General
Hospital, the Medical Stafl" Hospital,
the Eden Hospital, and the Lady
Canning Home for Nurses. Also of
native mission-work at .Pcepulputty in
the rice-fields 3 in. distant.
The first Portuguese came to Calcutta
in 1689, and the English granted a
piece of land on which the friars of the
order of St. Augustin erected a tem-
porary chapel. Its successor, the Roman
Catholic Cathedral, is in Portuguese
Church Lane. It is dedicated to the
Virgin Mary of the Rosary. It is
built on the site of the old brick chapel
erected in 1700, and cost 90,000 rs.
The first stone of the new building was
laid 12th March 1797.
St. Thomas's Roman Catholic
Church—This is a handsome building,
in Middleton Row, not far from the
Indian Museum; commenced in 1841.
Close by is the Convent of Our Lady
of Loreto.
The Scotch Kirk, or St. Andrew's, is
situated in Radha Bazaar, and occupies
the site of the Old Court House. It is
called by the natives LaZ Girjah. It
was opened in 1818, and cost £20,000.
This church sends a representative to
the General Assembly at Edinburgh.
It seats 500 persons. In the vestry
there is a portrait of Dr. James Bryce,
the first minister, by Sir John Watson
Gordon. There are some handsome
monuments within the church.
The Greek Church. —Turning to the
W. down Canning Street, on the way
to Burra Bazaar, the traveller will come
to the Greek Church, built in 1780 by
subscription, Mr. Warren Hastings
heading the list with 2000 rs.
The Armenian Church of St. Nazar-
cth is close by. It is on the rt. of the
road leading to Burra Bazaar. It was
founded in 1724, and completed in 1790.
The Brahma Somaj is the reformed
Theistic sect of Hindus, and has settle-
ments at Howrah, Konnagar, Basua,
Baluti, Baidyabati,Chinsurah, Hooghly,
Chandernagore and other places. The
sect has very little hold on the rural
population, the members being gener-
ally men of good social position. The

sect was founded by Rajah Ram Mohan
Rai in 1830. In 1858 Keshab Chandra
Sen joined the Somaj, being then 20
years of age. In 1862 he was ordained
minister of the Calcutta Brahma Somaj.
In October 1865 his secession took place,
and next year a new body was organised
by Keshab, entitled the Brahma Somaj
of India, and in January 1868 the first
stone was laid of a new church for the
progressive Brahmas or Keshab Chan-
dra Sen's arty. Brahma marriages
being illegaFin 1872, on the application
of Keshab, Lord Mayo passed the
Native Marriage Act, which enacts that
the parties must be unmarried, the
bride room and bride must have com-
plete the age of 18 and 14 years
respectively, must not be related within
certain degrees, and if under 21, except
in the case of a widow, must have the
written consent of parent or guardian.
The Mosque of Prince Ghulam Mu-
hammad—This is the finest Mosque
in Calcutta, and stands at the corner
of Dhuramtolla Street, and may be
visited when driving up Chowringhee,
from which it is conspicuous. It is
inscribed, “This Musjid was erected
during the Government of Lord Auck-
land, G.C.B., by the Prince Ghulam
Muhammad, son of the late Tipu Sultan,
in gratitude to God, and in commemora-
tion of the Honourable Court of Dir-
ectors granting him the arrears of his
stipend in 1840.”
Belvedere, the Lt. -G'0'vern0'r's Palace.
——This fine building stands in ex-
tensive and well-kept grounds. In
the entrance hall are some trophies of
Indian arms, and full-length portraits
of Sir John Peter Grant and Sir Wil-
liam Grey. At the spot which is now
the W. entrance of Belvedere, 0n the
'Alipur road, was fought the duel be-
tween Warren Hastings and Sir Philip
Francis, in which the latter was
wounded.
Race-course.—In driving to Belve-
dere, the Race-course on the Maidan
will be passed on the rt. The ground is
perfectly level, and the distance is 2 in.
Garden Reach. —Here are numerous
fine villas, most of which were built


BOTANICAL GARDENS
61
between 1768 and 1780. The house
of the Messageries Maritimes, and that
of the P. & 0. Co. are on the banks
of the river. Just above Garden
Reach is the village of Kiddcrpur, so
called after Mr. Kyd, who constructed
the present Government Dockyard.1
Between 1781 and 1821, according to
the Calcutta Review, No. XXXVI.,
p. 237, ships were built at the Kidder-
pur Docks, at a cost of more than
2,000,000 sterling, and in 1818,
the Hastings, a 74- gun ship was
launched there. At the W. extremity
of Garden Reach, or in its vicinity, was
situated the small fort of 'Aligarh, and
opposite to it, on the other bank of the
river, was the Fort of Tanna, both of
which were taken by Lord Clive in the
recapture of Calcutta in 1756.
A short distance to the E. of ’Alipur,
and immediately S.E. of Calcutta, is the
suburb of Baligunj, within the limits of
the S. Suburban Municipality, and the
residence of many European gentlemen.
Kalighat, celebrated as the site of a
temple in honour of the goddess Kali,
the wife of Shiva, is situated on the
bank of the old bed of the Ganges, a
few in. S. of Calcutta. The place
derives sanctity from the legend that
when the corpse of Shiva's wife was
cut in pieces by order of the gods,
and chopped up by the disc (sudarsan
chak'ra) of Vishnu, one of her fingers
fell on this spot. The temple is
supposed to have been built about
three centuries ago. A member of the
Sabarna Chandhu family, who at one
time owned considerable estates in
this part of the country, cleared the
jungle, built the temple, and allotted
194 acres of land for its maintenance.
A man of the name of Chandibar was
the first priest appointed to manage
the affairs of the tem le. His descend-
ants have now ta en the title of
Haldar, and are at present the pro-
prietors of the building. They have
amassed great wealth, not so much
from the proceeds of the Temple lands
as from the daily ofi'erings made by
pilgrims to the shrine. The principal
1 Hunter's Statistical Account of Bengal,
vol. i. pp. 100, 101.

religious festival of the year is on the
second day of the Durga-puja, when the
temple is visited by crowds of pilgrims,
principally belonging to the district
of the 24 Pargauas and the surrounding
villages.
Crossing Kidderpur bridge, the visitor
passes the garden gate of the Palace
of the late King of Oudh.
EXCURSIONS IN THE vrcmrrv or
CALCUTTA.
The Botanical Gardens, on the W.
bank of the river, opposite ’Alipur,
were founded in 1786, on the suggestion
of General Kyd, who was appointed
the first Superintendent. His suc-
cessors, Roxburgh, Wallich, Griffith,
Falconer, Thomson, Anderson, and
King, have all been celebrated botanists.
The visitor may drive to the Gardens
from Howrah or to the King of Oudh’s
Palace and cross the river Hooghly in
a boat. The area of the Gardens is
272 acres, with river frontage of a mile.
The whole of them may be seen without
descending from the carriage. At the
N.W. corner is the Howrah Gate, where
are three fine trees—a Ficus indica in the
centre, with a Firms religiosa on either
side. There is an avenue of Palmyra
palms to the right of the entrance, and
one of mahogany trees to the left. The
visitor will pass up a broad road in the
centre, leaving to the left a sheet of
water, and then assing through casuar-
ina trees, up w ich are trained speci-
mens of climbing palms, will enter
the Palm Plantation. A canal divides
this from the rest of the Gardens, crossed
by three bridges. Having crossed one
of these, the visitor will find the Flower
Garden on the right, where are many
conservatories and two orchid houses:
close by is a conservatory 200 ft.
long, and a monument to General Kyd,
from which a broad walk runs down
to the River Entrance. Leaving this
to the left, the visitor will pass along a
road which leads to the Great Banyan
Tree (Ficus indica), which covers ground
nearly 1000 ft. in circumference. On
the l. of an avenue near the great tree
is a monument to Roxbnrgh, with a
Latin epitaph by Heber. Thon- are


62
India
EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF CALCUTTA
also tablets in the Garden, near the old
conservatory, to Jack and to Griffith.
Sir J. Hooker, in his interesting
work Himalayan Journals, vol. i.
says of these Gardens, in 1848, that
“ they had contributed more useful
and ornamental tropical plants to the
public and rivate gardens of the world
than any ot er establishment before or
since.” He says also, “that the great
Indian Herbarium, chiefly formed by
the Staff of the Botanic Gardens, under
the direction of Dr. Wallieh, and distri-
buted in 1829 to the principal Mu-
seums of Europe, was the most valu-
able contribution of the kind ever
made to science ; " and adds, “that the
origin of the tea-culture in the Hima-
layas and Assam was almost entirely
the work of the Superintendent of the
Gardens at Calcutta and Saharanpur.”
The Superintendent has a house in the
Gardens. Near it is the Herbarium, or
collection of dried plants, probably the
only one in Asia of the first class.
There are from 30,000 to 40,000 species
represented in it. Attached to the
Herbarium is a very fine Botanic
Library.
Civil Engineering College, N. of
the Gardens, is a very handsome build-
ing, which looks well from the river.
Barrackpur sta., called by the natives
Charnoek, from Job Charnock, who
resided there for a period. The journey
may be made by rail, carriage, or by
river, if the traveller can procure the
loan of a steam launch. The trip up
the river takes 3 hrs., and is interesting
and picturesque. If time permits, the
river excursion may pleasantly be ex-
tended to Serampore, Chandernagore,
Chinsurah, and Hooghly (see below).
Just before reaching Barrackpur,
there are some handsome modern
temples on the 1. bank, then comes
the beautiful park (It.) with noble trees
and a small pier as landing-place, at
which the Viceroy’s yacht very often
lies. At 300 yds. to the S. of the
house, under a fine tamarind tree, is a
polygonal enclosure, within which is
a white marble monument to Lady
Canning; it replaces that removed to
the Cathedral at Calcutta. The Hall,

built by the Earl of Minto in 1813, is
100 yds. to the N. of the house, and
stands within a colonnade of Corinthian
pillars. Over the outside entrance is
a black slab, inscribed—
To the Memory of the Brave.
On the walls are four Tablets erected
by different Governors-General to the
memory of British soldiers who fell in
Mauritius and Java 1810-11, in Isle of
France, Maharajpur, and Paniar, 1843.
The House, which is the Viceroy’s
country residence, was commenced by
Lord Minto, and enlarged to its present
size by the Marquis of Hastings. It
contains some interesting pictures of
native princes. N. of the ark is Bar-
rackpur Cantonment. oops were
first stationed there in 1772, when the
place received its name. In 1824,
during the Burmese War, the 47th
B. N. I., which was ordered on service,
mutinied here on the 30th October,
on which the Commander-in-Chief, Sir
Edward Paget, proceeded to the can-
tonment with two European regts., a
battery of European artillery, and a
troop of the Governor-General’s Body-
guard. The mutinous regiment was
drawn up in face of these troops, and
was ordered to march, or ground arms.
The Sepoys refused to obey, when the
guns opened upon them, and throwing
away their arms and accoutrements
they made for the river. Some were
shot down, some drowned, manyhanged,
and the regt. was struck out of the
“ Army List."
Dum Dum sta., D.B., 4} m, from Cal-
cutta. A municipal town and canton
ment. There is a DB. in the sta.
(31,578 inhab.) It was the headquarters
of the Bengal Artillery from 1783 till
1853, when they were removed to
Meerut; and their mess-house is now
the Soldiers' Club, and is known as the
Outmm Institute. A bust of Sir James
Outram stands in the verandah.
In the centre of the Barrack Square
is a huge gun which has seen some
service. Near this is the monument
to the officers and men killed in the
Khaiber whilst returning from Kabul
in 1841. The Treaty which restored
the British settlements after the re-


FROM CALCUTTA UP THE W. BANK OF THE HOOGHLY
63
capture of Calcutta was signed at Dum
Dum. There is an English Church—
St. Stephen’s — a Roman Catholic
Chapel, and a Wesleyan Chapel. There
is a. Small Arm Ammunition Factory,
which necessitates a regiment of British
Infantry being stationed to guard it.
Polo, cricket, and football, snipe-
shooting, and tank - fishing are the
amusements of the place. Lord Clive
had a house at Dum Dum, and Fairy
Hall was occupied by Sir Henry
Lawrence.
From Calcutta by the E. I. Rly. up the
W. bank of the Hooghly.
The Howrah sta. is on the W. bank
of the Hooghly river, 200 yds. beyond
the Hooghly Bridge. This bridge
opens on Tuesdays and Fridays for two
hours for ships to ass.
Madras time is ept at all stations,
and is 33 min. behind Calcutta time.
1st and 2d class return-tickets, avail-
able for two months, are issued to any
station more than 130 m. distant, at the
rate of one ordinary fare and a half.
Holders of monthly tickets, on arriving
at a station where they intend breaking
theirjourneymusthaveinsertedontheir
tickets the date and train of arrival,
and when leaving the date and train
of departure. Each first-class passenger
may take 1% maunds of luggage free.
24 m. Hooghly sta. (Huglt) and Chin-
surah (2 m. from Hooghly sta., see
below), are bracketed together as one
in the Census Report, and together
cover an area of 6 sq. m. The pop. is
31,000. Hooghly town is the adminis-
trative headquarters of the district of
the same name. It was founded by
the Portuguese in 1547 A.D., when the
royal ort of Bengal, Satgaon, began
to be deserted, owing to the silting up
of the Saraswati, on which river it
was situated. They commenced by
building a fortress at Gholghat, close
to the present Hooghly jail, some
vestiges of which are still visible in
the bed of the river. When Shah J ehan
came to the throne, complaints were
made to him of the conduct of the
Portuguese at Hooghly. He sent a
large force there; the fort was besieged,

and after 4% months was stormed.
More than 1000 Portuguese were
slain, and 4000 men, women, and chil-
dren were captured. Out of 300 Portu-
guese vessels only three escaped. The
prisoners were sent to Agra, and
forcibly converted to Islam. Satgaon
was then abandoned for Hooghly, which
was made the royal port, and was also
the first settlement of the English in
Lower Bengal. The E. I. Co. established
a factory there in 1642, under a firma'n
from Sultan Shuja’, Governor of Ben-
gal, and second son of Shah Jehan.
This firmmt was granted to Dr. Bough-
ton, who had cured a favourite daughter
of the emperor, and who asked for it
when desired to name his reward. In
1669, the Company received permission
to bring their ships to Hooghly to load,
instead of transporting their goods in
small vessels, and then shipping them
into large. In 1685, a dispute took
place between the English at Hooghly
and the Nawab of Bengal, and the
Company sent a force to protect their
Hooghly factories. It chanced that a
few English soldiers were attacked by
the Nawab’s men in the bazaars, and a
street fight ensued. Colonel Nicholson
bombarded the town, and burned 500
houses, including the Company’s ware-
houses, containing goods to the value
of £300,000. The chief of the English
factory was obliged to fly to Sutanuti,
or' Chattanatti, and take shelter with
some native merchants. In 1742
Hooghly was sacked by the Marathas.
The principal thing to be seen at
Hooghly is the Imambarah, built by
Karamat 'Ali, the friend and companion
of Arthur Connolly, at a cost of 300,000
rs. from funds bequeathed by Muham-
mad Mushin, who owned a quarter of
the great Saiyadpur estate, in Jessore
District, and died in 1814, without heirs,
leaving property worth £4500 a year for
pious purposes. The trustees quar-
relled, and Government assumed charge
of the estate. During the litigation a
fund of £86,110 had accumulated, and
with this the Hooghly College was
founded, in 1836. The facade of the
Imambarah is 277 ft. x36 ft., and in
its centre is a gateway flanked by two
minarets, or towers, 114 ft. high. On


64
India
EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF CALCUTTA
either side of the door are inscriptions.
Within is a quadrangle, 150 ft. X 80 ft.,
with rooms all round, and a fine hall,
paved with marble, having a pulpit
with sides covered with plates of silver,
and a verse of the Koran inscribed in
each plate. The library was bequeathed
by Karamat ’Ali, but a few books have
since been added by other people.
Among them are 787 MSS., including a
fine folio Koran, in two vols., given by
Prince Ghulam Muhammad, son of
Tipu. On the opposite side of the road
from this Imambarah is the old Imam-
barah, built in 1776-77. In the W.
corner lie the remains of Karamat ’Ali,
and there is a white marble tablet placed
against the wall, with an extract from
the Koran, but no tomb.
About 6 m. from Hooghly is Satgaon.
It is said to be so called from seven holy
men who resided there. There is a
ruined mosque, which, together with a
few tombs near it, is the only remnant
of the old capital of Lower Bengal. It
was built by Saiyad Jamalu-din, son
of Fakhru - din, who, according to
inscriptions in the mosque, came from
Amol, a town on the Caspian. The
walls are of small bricks, adorned inside
and out with arabesques. The central
Mihrab is very fine. The arches and
domes are in the later Pathan style.
At the S.E. angle are three tombs in
an enclosure. During the last century,
the Dutch of Chinsurah had their
country seats at Satgaon, to which they
walked, in the middle of the day, to
dine. The river of Satgaon, up to
Akbar’s time, formed the N. frontier
of Orissa, and Satgaon flourished for not
less than 1500 years. Three centuries
ago the Hooghly flowed by the town.
Chinsurah is written in the old
Hindu books, Chuchimda. There was
a town or village Kalikatta (Calcutta)
long before the time of the English.
Chinsurah was held by the Dutch for
180 years, and ceded by them to the
English in exchange for Sumatra, in
1826. The old Dutch Church, of brick,
is said to have been built by the Gover-
nor in 1768. In it are 14 escutcheons,
dating from 1685 to 1770, and the in-
scriptions are in Dutch.
The Hooghly College is to the S. of

the church, and is one of the most
famous in India. There are 600
students, and ample accommodation
for more in the rooms of the old bar-
racks, which are very extensive, and
are kept in repair to lodge students.
The cemetery is 1 m. to the W. of the
church ; the new part is tolerably well
kept, but not so the part where the old
tombs are. Many of them are of Dutch
officials.
Bandel is 1 m. N. of Hooghly and
28 m. N. of Calcutta. The Portuguese
monastery and church here are worth
a visit. The first church was built in
1599, and the keystone with the date
was erected in the new one, which is
of brick, and very solidly built. It is
dedicated to Nossa Senhora di Rosario.
There are fine cloisters on the S., and
a priory, in which is a noble room called
St. Augustine's Hall. The organ is
good. The church was founded by the
Augustinian Missionaries, demolished
by Shah J ehan in 1640, and rebuilt by
John Gomez di Soto.
Serampore sta. The headquarters of
the subdivision of the same name is
on the W. bank of the Hooghly, oppo-
site Barrackpur, 13 m. from Calcutta
(24,440 inhab.) Babu Bholanath Chan-
dra, in his Travels of a Hindu, p. 6,
says, “ Serampore is a snug little town,
and possesses an exceeding elegance and
neatness of ap earance. The range of
houses alon iti'ie river-side makes up a
gay and br' iant picture. The streets
are as brightly clean as the walks in a
garden, but time was when Serampore
had a busy trade, and 22 ships cleared
from this small port in three months."
Its chief claim to historical notice arises
from the fact that it was the scene of
the Apostolic labours of Carey, Marsh-
man, and Ward. The zeal and successes
of the Baptist missionaries of Seram-
ore, at the beginning of this century,
orm one of the brightest episodes of
Evangelistic efforts in India. From
its press proceeded 30 translations of
the Scriptures. Serampore was formerly
a Danish settlement, and was then
called Fredericksnagar. In 1845 a
treaty was made with the Kin of Den-
mark, by which all the Danis posses-


nourn 2.
65
AURANGABAD
sions in India, namely, Tranquebar,
Fredericksnagar, and a small piece of
ground at Balasore were transferred to
the E. I. Company for £125,000.
The old Danish Church (1805) cost
18,500 rs. , of which 1000 were given
by the Marquis Wellesley. There are
tablets in memory of the above-
mentioned Baptist missionaries.
The College is a handsome building
on the banks of the river, and com-
mands a fine view across it, over Bar-
rackpur Park. The porch is en ported
by six pillars 60 ft. high. 811 the
ground floor is the Lecture-room, and'
in the floor above the Great Hall, which
is 103 ft. long, and 66 ft. broad. In
the Library are the following portraits :
1. Madame Grand, by Zofl'any; she
afterwards married Talleyrand (see
Mdme. de Rémusat’s Memoirs); 2. Dr.
Marshman, by Zoflany; 3. Frederick
VI. of Denmark; 4. Frederick's wife,
Queen of Denmark ; 5. copy of a
Madonna by Raphael ; 6. Rev.W.Ward,
by Penny. The library contains some
curious Sanscrit and Thibetan manu-
scripts, and an account of the Apostles
drawn up by the Jesuits for Akbar.
In the College compound is the house
in which Carey, Marshman, and Ward
lived, and a large mansion, now in-
habited by the Principal of the College;
and before reaching the College the
Mission Chapel is passed.
Chandemagoresta., :0: but according
to Hunter, correctly Chandanagar, or
“City of Sandal-wood.” The French
made a settlement here in 1673, and
in the time of Dupleix more than 2000
brick houses were built in the town,
and a considerable trade was carried
on. In 1757 the town was bombarded
by the English fleet under Admiral
Watson, and captured. The fortifi-
cations were demolished, but in 1763
the town was restored to the French.
In 1794 it was again captured by the
English, and held till 1815, when it
was again restored to the French, and
has remained in their possession ever
since. The railway station is just
outside the French boundary.
Chandernagore receives from the
English 300 chests of opium on con-
[India]

dition that the inhabitants do not
enga e in the manufacture of that
artic e. A church stands on the bank
of the river, built by Italian mission-
aries in 1726. Between Chandernagore
and Chinsurah is Bidcrra, where the
English obtained a decisive victory
over the Dutch. It is said that the
English commander was aware that his
nation and the Dutch were at peace,
and wrote to Clive for an order in
council to fight. Clive was playing
cards, and wrote in pencil: “Dear
Forde, fight them to-day, and I will
send you an order to-morrow.—Thurs-
day 17th, 1.30 RM."
ROUTE 2
BOMBAY T0 'AURANGABAD AND 'rnn
CAVES or ELLORA BY NANDGAON
STA. (ROAD 56 M.)
Bombay to Nandgaon sta. 178 m.
by the G. I. P. Rly. The mail tongs,
by which passengers can book for
Aurangabad, runs from Nandgaon sta.
in 9 hours—a fairly good road. Con-
veyances to the Ellora Caves can be had
only by special arrangement with the
mail contractor.
The road to Roza and the caves leaves
the main Aurangabad road 5 m. be-
yond the Deogam DB, 36 m. from
Nandgaon. From this point the caves
are distant 5 m. It is best to go first
direct to Aurangabad, seeing Daulata-
bad, the caves, and other places of
interest on the return journey.
56 m. Aurangabad, D.B. This
thriving city (pop. 8680), which has a
considerable trade in cotton and wheat,
was first called Khirki, and was founded
in 1610 by Malik Ambar, the head of
the Abyssinian faction in the Ahmad-
nagar state. The town lies to the E.,
the cantonment and the road to Daula-
tabad, Roza, and Ellora to the W. 300
yds. S. of the Old Cemetery, 1 m. N.E. of
1,.


66 nourn 2.
I ndt'a
BOMBAY TO AURANGABAD
the city, is the grand Mausoleum of
Rabi’a Durrani, daughter of Aurangzib.
The great door at the gateway is plated
with brass, and along the edge is
written, “ This door of the noble mauso-
leum was made in 1089 A.H., when
Atau’llah was chief architect, by Haibat
Rai." Near the inscription is an in-
finitesimally small figure, which is said
to be a bird, indistinctly carved, and
there is a similar carving on the door
of the mausoleum itself. It is a com-
mon joke amongst natives, when any
man asserts that he has been to Rabi’a’s
mausoleum, to ask if he saw the bird
there, and if he answers in the negative,
to dispute his having seen the mauso-
leum at all. In the garden is a long
narrow basin of water, in which foun-
tains used to play, and on either side
of the water is a walk and ornamental
wall. In the wall of the mausoleum
is a second but much smaller door, only
6 ft. high, plated with brass, where the
second bird is pointed out. The carving
of the flowers on this door is curious,
and that of the dragons particularly so,
and both are extremely like Japanese
work. The bird is on the edge of the
door close to the upper central knob.
The cenotaph is enclosed in an octa-
gonal screen of white marble lattice-
work exquisitely carved, and stands on
a raised marble platform. The place
for the slab is empty, and nothing but
earth appears. This is much approved
by Moslems, as showing humility. The
Government of the Nizarn has gone to
great expense in restoring this mauso-
leum. The main fault of this otherwise
beautiful building, which is compared
to the Taj, is the want of sufficient
height in the entrance archway. Ob-
serve the curious roof of the gateway
of the mausoleum. Below the right
corner of the platform is a second tomb,
said to contain the remains of Rabi’a
Durrani's nurse. There is no inscrip-
tion. In the gallery above the tomb is
a marble door exquisitely carved. To
the W. of the mausoleum is a mosque
of brick faced with cement (chunam) of
a dazzling whiteness. The pavement is
covered with tracings of prayer-carpets.
The mimbar, or pulpit, is of marble.
The Pan Chakki or water-mill is

perhaps the prettiest and best kept
shrine in this part of India. It is situ-
ated on the rt. of the road from the
cantonment to the Begampura bridge,
and on the very edge of the Kham, the
river of Aurangabad. To enter, turn to
the rt. into a beautiful garden by the
side of a brimming tank of clear water,
full of fish from 1 ft. to 3 ft. long, of
a species called K hol. This tank over-
flows into a lower one, and that again
into a narrow conduit. The saint en-
tombed here (see below) is Baba Shah
Musafir. He was a Ghistz' (member of
a theosophical sect among the Moham-
medans), and came originally from
Bokhara. He was the spiritual pre-
ceptor of Aurangzib. His successor is
still in charge of the place. Beyond
the first tank and the ornamental
garden is a second and much larger one.
It is entirely supported on vaults, on
two rows of massive pillars. The weight
of the great body of water resting on
them is enormous, and altogether it is
a remarkable work. Below is a noble
hall reached by steep steps down to the
level of the river. On the rt. of the
second tank is a fine mosque, the roof
of which is supported by four rows of
massive pillars. In two of the rows
the pillars are of teak, and in two of
masonry. At the S.W. corner of this
mosque, in a little garden, is the Tomb
of the saint. It is of beautiful light-
coloured marble, but very diminutive.
After leaving the Pan Ohakkt', drive
i m. N. to the Mecca Gate of the city,
and the Mecca Bridge, which are prob-
ably some centuries old. The gateway
from the top of the parapet is 42 ft.
above the road which passes over the
bridge. The flanking towers are sur-
mounted by domes. Inside the gate
there is a black stone mosque built by
Malik Ambar. In the centre is a niche
with the Divine Name, and “Victory
is near.” Above that is the Kalimah,
and some verses of the Koran written in
difficult Taghra (hand-writing of kings
or high officials). Close by is a recess
with a bell-shaped ornament. This is
perhaps the oldest mosque in the city.
The Government Oflices are 2 m.
to the SE. of the cantonment, and
in or near the Arkilla or citadel built


ROUTE 2.
67
CAVES OF AURA NGABAD
by Aurangzib. This spot not long ago
was entirely covered with cactus and
jungle, the haunt of hyenas and other
wild animals. It was, however, the
site of gentlemen’s houses in the reign
of Aurangzib, when Aurangabad was
the capital of the Deccan. Sir Salar
Jang ordered the site to be cleared,
and when this was done, numerous
reservoirs, fountains, and other works of
interest were discovered. These have
been repaired, and the wilderness has
literally been changed into a blooming
garden. On the high ground looking
down upon the Revenue Settlement
Officer’s Rooms, and on those of the
Municipality, is a fine hall, and in front
of it is a beautiful tank of most pel-
lucid water. Behind the hall is a
well-arranged garden, and in rear
of that again is the Bamiwlar'i, or
Government Htmse, with a fine fountain
in front. The facade of the Barahdari
is ornamented with lace-like patterns
in white chunam. Only one archway of
Aurangzib’s citadel remains, but here
53 great princes, like the Maharajahs
of J eypore and Jodhpur, attended the
court of the Emperor with thousands
of armed retainers, and Aurangabad
was then the Delhi of the South. As
soon as Aurangzib died the princes
departed, and Aurangabad sank at
once into comparative insignificance.
The Jumma Musjid is on the right
of the road, amid a grove of some of
the finest trees in India. One
immense Ficus indica stands close on
the road and shades some 300 ft. of
it. The Mosque is low and so are the
minarets. But the facade is rendered
striking by an ornamental band of
carving 2 ft. broad along the whole
front. Over the central niche are the
Kalimah and inscriptions in Tughra
writing as in Malik Amber’s Mosque.
This mosque is wonderfully well kept,
and there is, what is not seen anywhere
else, a net covering the entire facade,
so that no birds or other creatures can
enter. Malik Ambar built half this
mosque, and Aurangzib the other half.
The Caves of Aurangabad are beyond
the N. outskirts of the city near Rabi’a
Durrani’s mausoleum, from which it is

necessary to ride or walk to the foot of the
hills, which are here about 500 ft. high.
The ground at the base of the hill is
very rough, and intersected with deep
ravines. The visitor will have to climb
over a very rough and slippery rock
about 250 ft. up to the caves. He will
then see the mausoleum of Rabi’a 1!;
m. to the S.E. Steps lead to the
entrance of Cave N0. 1. On the left
of the door is Buddha in the teaching
attitude, that is, holding the little
finger of the left hand between the
thumb and forefinger of the right.
A Gandharva is flying nearly over
Buddha’s head. On the left is the
Padma Pani, “ lotus holder," an attend-
ant. The other attendant on the right
is Vajara Pani, “lightning holder."
Above the side door on the left are
three Buddhas, two of which are cross-
legged, and the third is in the teaching
attitude with the usual attendants. On
the right of the main entrance are
Buddha and three figures similar to
those on the left. A large figure of
Buddha, of black stone, 6 ft. high, sits
facing the entrance to the shrine. A
circle in relief on the wall represents a
halo round his head. Padma and Va-
jara are one on either side as usual,
with Gandharvas over their heads.
This cave has been whitewashed, and
the white patch on the side of the hill
can be seen from a mile off in the plain
below. There is an ornament like
prongs round the archway.
O'ave N0. £ is a Chaitya Hall with a
semicircular roof with stone ribs, like
the Vishwa Karma Cave at Ellora, and
a triforium. It consists of a nave 15
ft. long on either side, besides a bow or
curve 17 ft. long. Near the end of the
nave there is a dagoba with a “Tee 7’
very perfect. The ribs of the roof are
13 ft. above the cupola of the dagoba.
Cave N0. 3 is a vihara. The outer
verandah is ruined. The centre hall
is portioned off as usual by twelve
pillars, with plain bases, shafts, and
brackets. There is the usual vestibule
and sanctuary. The central Buddha
is 9 ft. 6 in. high. On either side are
seven worshipping figures. Cave No.
4 is a small vihara. Buddha is seated
on a Singhasan in the teaching attitude.


68 ROUTE 2.
India.
BOMBAY TO AUBANGABAD
All round on the wall are smaller
Buddhas. The sanctuary is 8 ft. 4 in.
square. The Vajara Pani has a da-
goba in his crest, and two figures of
‘ Buddha. The Nagas, known by their
snake-heads, stand at the sides of the
two attendants. A good example of
the dagoba crest or Tee is in the
corridor to your right as you enter, after
passing the first division, about the
middle in point of height. Case No. 5
is higher up in the face of the cliff, and
is not worth the trouble of a visit.
These caves are, as is generally the case,
in the centre of a semicircular ridge, as
at Ellora. At the distance of 300 yds.
from the foot of the hill on the descent
is reached a beautiful cluster of trees,
of which the principal are two im-
mense specimens of the Indian fig tree.
There are many other places of interest
to be seen in the hills around. The
journey to Daulatabad from Auranga-
bad, 8 m., can be done in one hour in a
tonga with two good horses. 3 m. from
Aurangabad is the village of Mttmttha,
where a change of horses is often placed.
It will be necessary to arrange before-
hand for a relay of horses at Daulata-
bad to get on to Roza (the tomb), 7 m.,
the same day. Near Daulatabad a
ghat or steep hill is passed, which tries
the horses very much, and sometimes it
is necessary to have coolies, 0r labourers,
to assist them. Permission must be
obtained from the British station staff-
oificer to see the fort of Daulatabad.
Daulatabad (Deogz'ri) a 13th cent.
fortress, 8 m. from Aurangabad, is
built on a huge isolated conical rock of
granite about 500 ft. high, with a per-
pendicular scarp of from 80 to 120 ft. all
round the base. At the base is a strag-
glin patch of houses and huts, which
is al that remains of the native town.
It is defended by a loop-holed wall
with bastions which on the E. side joins
the scarp of the fort. At the bottom
of the scarp is a ditch, before reaching
which four lines of wall, including the
outside wall of the town, must be
passed. The fosse can be crossed
only in one place by a stone causewa ,
so narrow that only two men can obtain
a footing on it abreast, and commanded

on the side near the fort by a battle-
inented outwork. The only means of
ascending the rock is through a narrow
passage hewn in the solid stone, and
leading to a large vault in the interior.
From this a ramp or gallery, gradually
sloping upwards, and also excavated
in the solid rock, winds round in the
interior. The first part of the ascent
is easy ; towards the end it is difficult.
The height of the passage averages
from 10 to 12 ft., with an equal breadth,
but it is so dark that torches are requi-
site. The entrance is on the E. side,
past 2 gates armed with very formidable
spikes of iron to resist elephants; at
the third gate there are 3 Hindu pillars
and 3 pilasters on either side. Facing
this third gate is a bastion 56 ft. high.
It has a balcony or gallery with Hindu
curved supports, and is called the
Nakar Khana, or music gallery. It
has a small window on which are
carved in alto-relievo two leopards like
those in the royal shield of England.
The fourth archway faces to the E.,
and beyond it on the right is an old
Hindu temple, with a broken lamp
tower 13 ft. high. On the left of the
road is a small chattri, or pavilion,
which is the dargah of the Pir-i-Kadus.
Passing along the side of a tank, and
turning to the 1., there is an entrance
to a mosque which was first a Jain
temple and then a place of worship
of Kali. Prayers are said here in
Ramazan, and at the Bakri 'Id, other-
wise it is not used. On the rt. of
the central dome, looking W., in a
niche, is a stone covered with a San-
scrit inscription, whitewashed over and
placed on its side. Going out of the
temple to the N. is a minaret said
to have been erected by the Moham-
medans in commemoration of their
first capture of the place. It was built
in 1435, according to a Persian inscrip-
tion in one of the chambers in the
foundation. From the window above
the third gallery an admirable view is
obtained. The fifth gateway leads to
a platform, which goes partly round
the hill, and has on the rt. a building
called the Uhiml Mahal, in which
Thanah Shah, last kin of Golkonda,
was imprisoned for t irteen yearsT


ROUTE 2.
69
ROZA 0R KHULDABAD
Ascend here to a bastion, on which is
a cannon indented in two places by
cannon balls. It is called Kil’ah Shi-
kan, leveller of forts, and is 21 ft. 10
in. long, and the muzzle has a diameter
of 8 in. It was made by Muhammad
Hasan the Arab. The really diflicult
and in former times impregnable part
of the fortress is now entered. Cross-
ing a narrow modern stone bridge, con-
structed to replace the movable planks,
that formerly were the only means of
entering, the ditch that surrounds the
citadel is now passed. To the l. of the
bridge and overlooking the most are
the extensive ruins of a Hindu palace
with remains of some excellent carving
in wood and stone. Continuing to
ascend by a flight of steps and rock-
cut passages at the place where the
tufa and limestone strata join, and
eventually emerging from a tunnel, we
reach a platform, and look out over a
garden with immense nests of hornets
hanging from the branches of the trees.
Passing on we come to an opening
covered over with an iron shutter 20
ft. long and 1 in. thick, made in ribs
(part of it is gene), which in case
of siege was heated red hot, so that
if assailants could have penetrated so
far, they would have encountered a fiery
roof uite unapproachable. To provide
venti ation for the fire a large hole has
been tunnelled through the rock close
by. Passing a gateway, and the shrine
of the Fakir Sukh Sultan, we come
to a Barahdari, or pavilion, from which
there is a fine view. It is believed to
have been the residence of the Hindu
Princes of Deogiri, and was a favourite
summer resort of the Emperor Shah
Jehan and his son Auran ib. The
pavilion has a wide veran ah, with a
precipice of from 100 to 200 vft. in
front, and a view to Aurangabad on
the E. and to Roza on the N. In the
direction of Aurangabad is the small
isolated hill of Chaman Tekri, upon
which are the ruins of Hindu temples
of great antiquity. 100 steps more
must be climbed to reach the Citadel
itself, on a platform 160 ft. x120 ft.
At the W. corner is a one-gun battery,
60 ft. x 30 ft. The gun is 19 ft. 6 in.
long, with a bore of 7 in. On one

bastion is a large gun, on which is a
Guzerati inscription, saying that the
funds for its construction were provided
by certain Banias, and also a Persian
inscription, naming the gun “Creator of
Storms.” Tavernier says that the gun
on the highest platform was raised to its
place under the directions of a European
artilleryman in the service of the Great
Mogul, who had been repeatedly refused
leave to return to his native land, but
was promised it if he could mount
the gun on this spot. Stimulated by the
promise, he at last succeeded.
In the year 1293 ’Alau-din, after-
wards Emperor of Delhi, took the city
of Deogiri (Daulatabad). The citadel
still held out. He raised the siege on
receiving an almost incredible ransom,
15,000 lbs. of pure gold, 175 lbs. of
pearls, 50 lbs. of diamonds, and 25,000
lbs. of silver. In 1338 A.D. Muhammad
Shah Tughlak attempted to establish
his capital in the Deccan, removed
the inhabitants of Delhi to Deogiri,
strengthened the fortifications, and
changed the name to Daulatabad. His
plans, however, were finally bafl'led.
The road (7 m.) to Roza and the
caves of Ellora is up the stee hill called
Pipal Ghat. It was pave by one of
Aurangzib’s courtiers, as recorded on
two pillars about half-way up the hill,
where there are fine views.
Roza (pronounced Rauza) or Khul-
dabad, It! a walled town, 2000 ft. above
the sea (2218 inhab.) It is 2 m. from
the caves of Ellora and 14 m. N.W of
Aurangabad. Tongas or light carts can
be taken up .or down the ghats. An
annual Fair is held here on 7th Feb.,
at which thousands of people assemble.
Roza possesses a pleasant and tem-
perate climate, and is largely used as a
sanitarium during the summer months.
It is the Kerbella (a holy shrine) of
the Deccan Mussulmans, and is cele-
brated as the burial-place of many
distinguished Mohammedans, amongst
whom are the Emperor Aurangzib and
his second son, Azim Shah ; Asaf Jah,
the founder of the Haidarabad dynasty;
Nasir Jung, his second son ; Malik
Ambar, the powerful minister of the last
ofthe Nizam Shahikings; Thanah Shah.


70 ROUTE 2.
India
BOMBAY TO AURANGABAD
the exiled and imprisoned kin of Gol-
konda; and a host of minor ce ebrities.
Roza once contained a considerable
population, but the place is now in
great part deserted. It is surrounded by
a high stone wall (built by Aurangzib)
with battlements and loopholes. Old
and ruinous mosques and tombs abound
in every direction on each side of the
road.
Midway between the N. and S. gates
of the city is the Mausoleum of Aur-
angzib. An ascent of 30 yds. leads to
the domed porch and gateway, erected
about 1760 by a celebrated dancing girl
of Auran bad: within it is a large
quadrangi: Some of the surrounding
buildings are used as rest-houses for
travellers, and one as a school. In the
centre of the S. side is an ex uisite little
N akar Khana, or music hal , from the
galleries ofwhich music is played when
festivals or fairs are celebrated. The
W. side is occupied by a large mosque,
the roof of which is supported on scal-
loped arches. Facing the N. end of
the mosque is a small open gateway
leading into an inner courtyard, in-the
S.E. angle of which is the door of
Aurangzib’s tomb itself. Above the
door is a semicircular screen of carved
wood. The grave, which is uncovered,
lies in the middle of a stone latform
raised about half a. foot from t e floor.
It is overshadowed by the branches of
a tree (Bukuli) which bears sweet-
smelling flowers, otherwise it is quite
open to sun and rain, as it should be,
according to orthodox Mohammedan
ideas. This emperor, who was a man
of austere iety, is said before his death
to have desired that his sepulchre
should be poor and unpretentious, in
accordance with the tenets of the
Koran. The tomb is lain almost to
meanness, from whic it is only
redeemed by the beauty of the delicate
marble screen, 5 ft. high, which encloses
the lower rtion on the W. side. It
is a remar able circumstance that he,
who had erected such a magnificent
mausoleum over his wife Rabi’a Durani
at Aurangabad, should have desired
such a lowly sepulchre himself ; but it
is generally believed that his son, Azim
Shah. "" ~ was near him at the time of

his death, and his courtiers, religiously
obeyed his wish in interring his remains
in this manner, and in a place sanctified
by the tomb of a Celebrated Moham-
medan saint. He is said to have
“desired in his will that his funeral
expenses should be defrayed from the
proceeds of caps which he had quilted
and sold, and this amount did not
exceed 10s. ; while the roceeds of the
sale of his copies of the oran, 805 rs.,
were distributed to the poor."
Fifteen or twenty paces to the E. of
Aurangzib’s tomb is a small quadran-
gular enclosure of marble, within which
are three graves, the one on the right
being that of the daughter of the
Mohammedan saint buried close by;
the next that of Azim Shah, Aurang-
zib’s second son, attached to which is
a small marble headstone carved with
floral devices; and the one beyond is
the grave of Azim Shah’s wife. The
whole is surrounded by a plain screen
of white marble. Midway between
these tombs and that of Aurangzib is
the Mausoleum of Saiyad Zai'nu-din,
on the E. side of which are inscribed a
number of verses from the Koran, and
the date of the Saiyad’s death, 1370 AJ).
This tomb, however, was erected many
years after that period by one of his
disciples. The doors of the shrine
are inlaid with silver plates of some
thickness; the steps below it are em-
bellished with a number of curiously cut
and polished stones, said to have been
brought here from time to time by
fakirs and other religious devotees of
the shrine. A little distance to the
rear of this tomb is a small room built
in an angle of the courtyard wall, which
is said to contain the robe of the
Prophet Mohammed. It is carefully
preserved under lock and key, and is
only exhibited to the gaze of the
faithful once a year, the 12th Rabin-L
Awal (March).
Opposite the tombs of Anrangzib
and his son is that of Asaf Juh, the
first of the Nizams of Haidarabad.
The entrance is through a large quad-
rangle, having open-fronted buildings
on all sides, and a Nakar Khana, or
music hall, at the E. end. The W.
end is used as a school for instruction


some 2.
71
THE CAVES OF ELLORA
in the Koran. A door at this end
gives access to an inner courtyard in
which are a. number of graves. Facing
the entrance are the shrines of Asaf
J ah and one of his consorts, surrounded
by a lattice screen of red sandstone,
and that of Saiyad Hazmt Burhanu-
din, a saint of great renown amongst
Mohammedans, who died at Roza,
1344. The Saiyad is said to have
left Upper India with 1400 disciples
a few years before the first invasion
of the Deccan by ’Alau-din, 1294,
for the purpose of propagating the
tenets of his faith amongst the Hindus
of this portion of India. Deposited
within the shrine are some hairs of the
Prophet’s beard, which are said to in-
crease yearly in number. The shrine,
however, boasts of a still more remark-
able treasure, which is described by the
attendants as follows : “For some years
after its erection, the disciples of the
Saiyad were without means to keep it
in repair, or to provide themselves with
the necessaries of life. Supplication
to the deceased saint, however, pro-
duced the following remarkable pheno-
menon. During the night small trees
of silver grew up through the pavement
on the S. side of the shrine, and were
regularly removed every morning by
the attendants. They were broken up
and sold in the bazaars, and with the
proceeds thus realised the Saiyad’s dis-
ciples were enabled to maintain the
shrine and themselves. This remark-
able production of silver is said to have
continued for a number of years, until
a small jagir was allotted to the shrine,
since which time the pavement has
only yielded small buds of the precious
metal, which appear on the surface at
night and recede during the day.” In
proof of these assertions the visitor is
shown a number of small lumps of
silver on the surface of the pavement.
The shrine doors are covered with plates
of white and yellow metal wrought into
designs of trees and flowers.
Small game is plentiful in this neigh-
bourhood.
24 m. from Roza is the native village
of Kunhur, in the fertile valley of the
Sinna. 20 m. farther is Chalisgaon,
on the G. I. P. Rly.

The' Caves of Ellora.
Ellora(Elur1mr Vcrul), 1k a villagein
the Nizam’s Dominions. Distant N.W.
from Aurangabad 14 m., from Daulata-
bad 7 m. Pop. 742. The village is
partly walled, and contains a Moham-
medan shrine famed throughout the
Deccan for its marvellous healing
powers. Ellora is famous for its highly
remarkable series of rock-caves and
temples, situated in a crescent-shaped
hill or plateau. They are first men-
tioned by Mahsudi, the Arabic geo-
grapher of the 10th cent., but merely
as a celebrated place of pilgrimage.
They were visited in 1306 by Alau Din
or his generals, when, as Dow (History
of Hindostan) relates, the capture oc-
curred of a Hindu princess of Guzerat,
who was here in concealment from the
Mohammedans, but was afterwards
carried to Delhi and married to the
emperor’s son.
Contrasting the caves of Ellora
and Ajanta, Mr. Fergusson writes:
“ Architecturally the Ellora caves
difi‘er from those of Ajanta, in con-
sequence of their being excavated in
the sloping sides of a hill, and not
in a nearly perpendicular cliff. From
this formation of the ground almost all
the caves at Ellora have courtyards in
front of them. Frequently also an
outer wall of rock, with an entrance
through it, left standing, so that the
caves are not generally seen from the
outside at all, and a erson might pass
along their front wit out being aware
of their existence, unless warned of the
fact.” The caves extend along the face
of the hill for 11 111. They are divided
into three distinct series, the Buddhist,
the Brahmanical, and the Jain, and are
arranged almost chronologically.
“ The caves,” writes Mr. Burgess,
“ are excavated in the face of a hill, or
rather the scarp of a large plateau, and
run nearly N. and S. for about 11 m.,
the scarp at each end of this interval
throwing out a horn towards the W.
It is where the scarp at the S. end
begins to turn to the W. that the
earliest caves—a group of Buddhistic
ones—are situated, and in the N. horn
is the Indra Sabha or Jain group, at


72
I mlia
ROUTE 2.
BOMBAY TO AUBANGABAD
the other extremity of the'series. The
ascent of the ghat passes up the S. side
of Kailas, the third of the Brahmanical
group, and over the roof of the Das
Avatar, the second of them. Sixteen
caves lie to the S. of Kailas, and nearly
as many to the N., but the latter are
scattered over a greater distance.
“Most of the caves have got dis-
b3






w," '-
The Dherwara.
tinguishing names from the Brahmans;
but it may be quite as convenient, for
the sake of reference, to number them
from S. to N., beginning with the
Buddhistic caves, of which there are
12, and passing through the Brah-
manical series, of which 17 are below
the brow of the scarp, and a large
number of smaller ones above, and end-
ing with the J aiu caves, of which there
are 5 at the extreme N. There are
also some cells and a colossal Jain image
on the N. side of the same spur in
which is the Indra Sabha." Amongst
the Buddhist, the most important are
the Dherwara, the oldest; the Vish-
wakarma, or Carpenter’s Cave, a
Chaitya with a ribbed roof, a parallelo-
gram about 85 ft. long; the Do Tel (2




The Kailas.
stories); and Tin T211 (3 stories).
The Das Avatar is the oldest of the
Brahmanical series. The great hall is
143 ft. long, and is supported by 46
pillars.
The most splendid of the whole series
is the Kailas, a perfect Dravidian
temple, complete in all its parts, char-
acterised by Fergusson as one of the
most wonderful and interesting monu-


ROUTE 3.
nnosawsn 7 3
ments of architectural art in India.
“ It is not a mere interior chamber cut
in the rock," continues Mr. Fergusson,
“ but is a model of a complete temple
such as might have been erected on the
plain. In other words, the rock has
been cut away externally as well as
internally." This temple is said to
have been excavated about the 8th cent.
by Rajah Edu of Ellichpur—by whom
the town of Ellora was founded~as a
thank-offering for a cure efl‘ected by the
waters of a spring near the place.
Dedicated to Shiva, it is surrounded
with figures also of Vishnu and the
whole Puranic pantheon. The interior,
and parts at least, of the exterior have
been painted. Unlike any of the pre-
ceding cave-temples, Kailas is a great
monolithic temple, isolated from sur-
rounding rock, and profusely carved out-
side as well as in. It stands in a great
court averaging 154 ft. wide by 276 ft.
long at the level of the base, entirely out
out of the solid rock, and with a scarp
107 ft. high at the back. In front of
this court a curtain has been left, carved
on the outside with the monstrous forms
of Shiva and Vishnu and their congeners,
and with rooms inside it. It is pierced
in the centre by an entrance passage
with rooms on each side. Passin this,
the visitor is met by a large scu ture
of Lakshmi over the lotuses, wit her
attendant elephants. As we enter, to
right and left is the front portion of
the court, which is a few feet lower
than the rest, and at the N. and S. ends
of which stand two gigantic elephants,
—that on the S. much mutilated. Tum-
ing again to the E. and ascending a few
steps, we enter the great hall of the
temple. In front of it, and connected
bya brid e, is a mandapam for the Nandi
Bull, an on each side of this mandapam
stands a illar, 45 ft. high. On the N.
side of the court is a series of excava-
tions in two tiers with finely sculptured
pillars. Another magnificent Brahmani-
cal cave temple is that of Dumar Lena,
measuring 150 ft. each way. “ One of
the finest Hindu excavations existing."
From here a footpath leads to
(1 m.) the fine series of Jain caves, the
.Ilqaganlnath, and Indra Sabhas, at the
. en .

ROUTE 3
Bnusswan via NAGPUR 'ro CALCUTTA
(G. LP. and Bengal-Nagpur Rlys.)
This line is open for through traffic, but
not at rapid rates. No time would he saved
by going this way to Calcutta. All mail
trains and the quickest service are via. Allaha-
bad (Rte. 1).
Passengers are warned to take lunch-baskets
and provisions with them, as the refreshment
arrangements are not complete, and the trains
do not stop at stations is sufficiently long time
for meals, nor at convenient hours.
The opening of the Bengal-Nagpur
Line in March 1891 marked the com-
pletion of one of the greatest railway
enterprises in India for many years
past. By this line a new route from
Bombay to Calcutta (1278 m., or about
125 m. shorter than any other) is
opened up. It is not probable that
this line will be much used for pas-
senger traffic, but it taps an immense
territory of the Central Provinces which
has hitherto been inaccessible to ex-
ternal trade, and provides an outlet for
the great wheat and seed-producing
district of Chattiagarh, “the granary
of India.” The scenery in parts of the
line, notably at Dare Kassa, Dongar-
garh, and Saranda, is very fine.
The route from Bombay to
276 m. Bhusawal junc. (R.) is de-
scribed in Rte. 1.
Soon after leaving Bhusawal the
traveller enters the Province of Berar
( op 2,896,670), which continues
aiimost all the way to Nagpur. It
belongs to H.H. the Nizam, but was
assigned to the British by a treaty, in
1853, for the support of the Haidarabad
Contingent force. This treaty was
remodelled in December 1860, by
which, for the Nizam's services in the
Mutiny of 1857, his debt of 50 lakhs
was cancelled, the districts of Dharaseo
and the Raichur Doab were restored,
and the confiscated territory of Shela-
pur was ceded to him.
The traveller cannot fail to be struck
with the fertility of this Province.
which is one of the richest and most
extensive cotton-fields in India. The
soil is black loam overlying basalt.


74 ROUTE 3.
India
BHUSAWAL TO CALCUTTA
The rainfall is regular and abundant,
and at harvest-time the whole surface
is one immense waving sheet of crops.
The districts into which Berar is
divided are Akola, Amraoti, Elichpur,
Buldana, Wun, and Basim.
333 m. Jalamb junc. sta.
[Br. 8 m. S. to Khamgazm sta., where
there is an important cotton-mart]
340 m. Sheagaon sta. (R.), D.B.
363 m. Akola. sta. is the head-
uarters station of the West Berar
istrict of that name.
[A road from Akola runs S. 72 m. to
the important town and military station
of Hingali. About 30 m. from Akola
is the town of Maker, and 15 m. S. of
Mekar is a celebrated soda lake called
Lonar, formed in the crater of an extinct
volcano. The salt is used for washing
and dyeing purposes, and is exported
in considerable quantities. The area
of the Akola district is 2659 sq. m.,
pop. 592,800.]
413 m. Badnera junc. sta. (R.), D. B.
[Br. 6 m. N. to Amraoti sta. :9: (R. ),
D.B. Both places have cotton-marts,
and there are cotton-gins and ware-
houses. Amraoti is the headquarters
of the district of that name, and has
the usual public offices attached to a
civil station.]
472 m. Wardha junc. sta. (R.), D.B.
The chief town of the most westerly
district of the Central Provinces. The
place is quite modern, dating only from
1866, has the usual public ofiices of
a civil station, and is a considerable
cotton-mart.
[Br. S. to the Warora coal-fields.
21 m. Hinganghat sta., D.B., a very
important cotton-market, and older
than most of the others described.
45 m. Warora terminus sta., a
town in the Chanda district of the
Central Provinces, and a considerable
cotton-mart. Close to Warora are
mines of fairl good coal ; 3000 tons a
month have een supplied to the rail-

way, the yearly out-turn has been
about 100,000 tons.
30 m. SE. of Warora is Chanda,
D. B., reached by a good road. This
place is the headquarters of the Chanda
district. Too far off the main lines of
communication to be visited by hurried
travellers, it is yet a most attractive
spot. The town is surrounded by a
continuous wall of cut stone 5% m. in
circuit. Inside the walls are detached
villages and cultivated fields. The
foliage is beautiful and there are ex-
tensive forest-preserves near. The
tombs of the Gond kings, and the
temples of Achaleswar, Maha Kali, and
Murlidhar, are all worth a visit. At
Lalpet, in the town, a large space is
covered with monolith figures of gigan-
tic size which appear to have been pre-
pared for some great temple never
erected. Cunningham, in reviewing
the travels of Hiouen Thsang in South-
ern India in the 7th century, con-
siders that Chanda has a strong claim
to be considered the capital of the
kingdom of Maha-Kosala. Here a
traveller would see the Gonds, a people
differing from the surroundin popula-
tion in religion, language, an race.]
520 in. Nagpur, * D.B., is the capital
of the Central Provinces, which have an
area of 112,912 sq. m. (pop. 10,761,630).
The district of Nagpur itself has an
area of 3786 sq. m. Among the in-
habitants are upwards of 2,000,000 of
aborigines called Kols ; and of these the
hill-tribes have black skins, fiat noses,
and thick lips. A cloth round the waist
is their chief garment. The reli ious
belief varies from village to vil age.
Nearly all worship the cholera and the
small-pox, and there are traces of serpent
worship.
The ancient history of the Province
is very obscure. In the 5th century
A.D. a race of foreigners, Yavanas,
ruled from the Satpura plateau, and
between the 10th and 13th centuries,
Rajputs of the Lunar Race governed
the country round J ubbulporc, and the
Framers of Malwa ruled territory
S. of the Satpuras. The Chanda
dynasty of Gonds reigned probably


ROUTE 3.
naerun 75
as early as the 10th or 11th cen-
tury, and the Haihais of Chattis-
garb were of ancient date. In 1398
A.D. there were princes reigning at
Kherla, on the Satpura plateau, and
Ferishtah says “ they possessed all the
hills of Gondwana." In 1467 they
were conquered by the Bahmani
kings. The next century the Gonds
again rose to p0wsr, but in 1741 the
Maratha Bhonslas invaded the country.
In 1818 the English annexed the
Saugar and Nerbudda territories, and
in 1853 the rest of the Central
Provinces.
Nagpur, situated on the small stream
called the Nag (pop. 117,900), is the
headquarters of the administration of
the Central Provinces. The munici-
pality includes, besides the city, the
suburb and the European station of
Sitabaldi. In the centre stands Sita-
baldi Hill, crowned with the fort of the
same name, which commands a fine
view. Below to the N. and W. is the
prettily wooded civil station of Nagpur.
Beyond to the N. are the military lines
and bazaars, and beyond these the
suburb of Takli, once the headquarters
of the Nagpur Irregular force. There
is a fine new Residency on Takli Hill,
but the Chief Commissioner resides
chiefly at Pachmari on the Satpuras.
Close under the S. side of the hill is the
native suburb of Sitabaldi. Below the
glacis is the railway station ; beyond is
the Jumma Talao, a large tank; and
more to the E. is the city, hidden in
foliage. Three great roads lead from the
European station to the city, one on
the N. and one on the S. bank of the
tank ; the third, which is the most N.
of all, crosses the railway by a bridge
to the N. of the station. Besides the
J umma Talao, there are two other fine
tanks, the Ambajhari and Tclingkheri,
in the neighbourhood. The chief
gardens are the Maharaj Bagh, in
Sitabaldi, the Tulsi Bagh, inside the
city, and the Paldi, Shakardara, Sona-
gaon, and Telingkheri in the suburbs.
The traveller will remember that
Nagpur is famous for its delicious
oranges, large numbers of which are
exported during the first three months
of the year. His first visit may be to the

Sitabaldi Hill. Here, on the 26th and
27th of November 1817, the Maratha
troops of the Bhonsla Rajah, Apa Sahib,
attacked the Resident, Mn, afterwards
Sir R. Jenkins, and the few troops he
had been able to assemble. After a
desperate engagement, during which
the Marathi at one time got possession
of one of the two eminences of the
Sitabaldi Hill, the English were at
length victorious. The Resident was
then joined by fresh troops, and de-
manded the surrender of the Rajah and
the disbandment of his army. This
latter point was only obtained after a
second battle, in which the Marathi
were completely routed.
Apa Sahib esca ed and died in exile.
A child was raise to the throne under
the title of Raghoji III., and on his
death, in 1853, the country was annexed
by the British. On the 13th of June
1857 the native cavalry conspired with
the Mohammedans of the city to rise
against the British, but the infantry
continued loyal, and arrested the native
officers sent to them by the cavalry.
The masla Palace, built of black
basalt and richly ornamented with
wood carving, was burnt down in 1864,
only the Nakar Khana, or music hall,
remains.
Thence the traveller may proceed to
the Tombs of the Bhonsla Rajahs, in
the Shukrawari quarter, to the S. of
the city. The markets are in the
Gurganj Square and Gachi Pagar, and.
take place once a week in each. In
the city are also the Small Cause Court
and the Magistrate’s Court. The Cen-
tral Jail is an important institution.
The old Residency, where the Chief
Commissioner formerly resided, and
the Secretariat, are at Sitabaldi. There
is a small detachment from the English
regiment at Kamptee garrisoning the
fort, and there are also the head-
quarters and wing of a N.I. regiment.
The city and civil station are well
supplied with water from the Ambajhari
reservoir, and the station roads are lined
with beautiful trees. There is a hand-
some English church, and a large
Roman Catholic cathedral and school,
and an important branchof the Missions
of the Free Church of Scotland.


76 noon: 3.
India
BHUSAWAL TO CALCUTTA
The Great Indian Peninsula Railway
terminates at Nagpur, and from this
point E. towards Calcutta the line
belongs to the Bengal-Nagpur Railway,
which joins the East Indian Railway at
621 In. Asensole. The total distance
from Nag ur to Calcutta is 759 In.
As new rai ways are necessarily subject
to interruption, the traveller should
make sure before leaving Nagpur that
the line is open throughout.
9 m. Kamptee, DE. A large town
and military cantonment on the right
bank of the Kanhan river, which is
spanned by ahandsome stonebridge that
cost £90,000. Close to it is the railway
bridge, a fine iron structure that cost
£100,000. Pop.51,000. Kamptee dates
only from the establishment of the
military station in 1821, and for about
fifty years it was governed entirely by
the military authorities. The neigh-
bouring city of Nagpur during the
greater part of this time was the capital
of the state, and the residence of a
native court. No more striking evi-
dence could be adduced of the just and
moderate tone of the army administra-
tion than the rapid growth of this place.
The roads are broa and well laid out.
The English church was built in
1833, and there is a highly useful
Roman Catholic establishment of the
order of St. Francis de Sales with a
church and convent, where good educa-
tion is given to a class of children who
would otherwise be neglected. There
are 5 mosques and 70 Hindu temples.
39 n1. Bhandara Road sta., D. B., is
aboutfiém. from the town, which is close
to the Wainganga river. It is the head-
quarters of a district of the same name,
and contains the usual public oflices,
schools, and institutions. Pop. 11,000.
Between Bhandara and Nagpur few of
the richer natives ever mount a horse,
they ride astride on the pole of a very
light two-wheeled ox-cart called a ringi.
The oxen for these carts are a special
breed, very small and active, and cap-
able of sustaining a trot equal to the
pace of an ordinary carriage horse.
95 m. Amgaon sta. (R.)

From 104 m. Salekasa sta. to
127 m. Dongargarh sta. (R.), the line
passes throu h hills and heavy bamboo
jungles, an through a pass with a
tunnel at the summit. The jungle
near this tunnel is famous for gener-
ally having a man-eating tiger in it.
During the construction of the railway
a large number of natives were killed
here, and victims have more recently
been carried ofl'. Large game of all
sorts abounds. Dongargarh is a large
engine-changing station, with a con-
siderable European population con-
nected with the railway. The ruins of
a fort are on the N.E. face of a detached
hill, some 4 m. in circuit. Inside the
fortified space there are tanks for water
supply, but no buildings.
188 In. Raiplu‘ sta. The chief town
of a district of the same name, the
residence of the commissioner of Ohattis-
garh, and a small military cantonment.
The usual offices will be found. The
old town was to the S. and W. of the
present one, which was laid out by
Colonel Agnew in 1830. The po . is
25,000. The town is surroundedP by
tanks and groves of trees, which form
its attraction. The Fort was built by
Rajah Bhuraneswar Sing in 1460, and
in its time was a very strong work.
Its outer wall is nearly 1 m. in cir-
cumference. Large quantities of stone
were used in its construction, though
no quarries exist in the neighbourhood.
The Burha Tank, on the S., the same
age as the Fort, covered nearly 1 s . m.
In later improvements it has een
reduced in extent. The public gardens
are on its E. shore. The Maharaj
Tank was constructed by a revenue
farmer in the times of the Marathas,
and close to it is the temple of Ram-
chandra, built in 1775 by Bhimbaji
Bhonsla. There are several other reser~
voirs in the suburbs ; and in the centre
of the town is the Kankali tank, con-
structed of stone throughout, at the
close of the 17th century.
256 m. Bilaspur junc. sta. (R.)
[Br. N.W. through a mountainous
district and the coal-fields of Umaria


noun: 3.
KATNI 77
to 198 m. Katni junc. on the E. I. Rly.
(Rte. 1).]
This place is also a large engine-
changing centre; the railway canton-
ment is near the railway station, about
1}, m. from the town. Bilaspur itself
has little to attract the visitor. It is
the headquarters of the district, and
has the usual features of a civil station.
The traveller enters the province of
Chattisgarh about Amgaon, 95 m. E.
of Nagpur, and continues in it to about
Raigarh station, at 334 m. The people
of this country still consider themselves
a separate nationality, and always call
themselves Chatlisgaris. As stated
below, the Rajahs of Ratanpur ruled
originally over their 36 forts, each the
chief place of a district; but on the
accession of the 20th rajah, Surdevah,
about 750 A.D., the kingdom was divided
into two, and a separate rajah ruled in
Raipur.
Kalyan Sahi, who ruled between
1536 and 1573, went to Delhi and made
his submission to the great Akbar, and
this prudent conduct resulted in the
Haihai rulers retaining their country
until the Maratha invasion in 1740.
The district, which is regarded as
one of the richest corn-growing countries
in the world, and is known as the
“granary of India,” is in the shape of
a vast amphitheatre opening to the S.
on the plains of Raipur, but on every
other side surrounded by tiers of hills.
About 15 m. E. of Bilaspur is the
precipitous hill qf Dahla, 2600 ft. high,
affording a grand view.
[12 m. N. of Bilaspur is Ratanpur,
or Ruttunpur, the old capital of the
formerly self-contained kingdom of
Chattisgarh, or the 36 Forts, in which
is included the districts of Raipur and
Bilaspur. The town lies in a hollow
surrounded by the Kenda hills. It
ceased to be the capital in 1787, but
the crumbling arches of the old fort,
the broken walls of the ancient palace,
and the half-filled-up moat which sur-
rounded the city, recall its former con-
dition. The population is under 6000.
The Brahmans of Ratan ur are still the
leaders of their class a1 over Chattis-
garh. The town covers an area of 15

sq. m., and contains within its limits
a forest of mango trees, with numerous
tanks and temples scattered amidst
their shade. Mixed up with temples,
great blocks of masonry of uniform
shape commemorate distinguished satis
(suttees). The most prominent of these
is near the old fort, where alarge build-
ing records that there in the middle of
the 17th century 20 ranis of Rajah
Lakshman Salli devoutly fulfilled the
duty of self-immolation. Kom sta. on
the Katni branch is a few miles from
Ratanpur.]
Before reaching
289 m. Champs. sta. the Hasdu river
is crossed. The stream cuts the coal-
fields of Korba, some 20 m. N. of the
railway; and in the jungles on its banks
are to be found some of the few herds
of wild elephants still roaming through
the forests of the Central Provinces.
The line continues E. through a
thinly-inhabited flat country to
370 m. Belpahan sta., on leaving
which the Eeb river, which flows S.
into the Mahanadi river, is crossed by
a considerable bridge. The scenery at
the crossing is very fine ; and at
383 m. Sambalpur Road sta., a road
leads S. to the civil and military station
of Sambalpur, distant 30 m.
[Sambalpur has at different times
exported diamonds to a considerable
value. They are said to be found in the
bed of the Mahanadi up-stream from
the town, but whether the source of
supply is the Mahanadi or the Eeb
river is perhaps not clearly known]
From Sambalpur Road the railway
takes a N.E. course, and continuing
through awell-inhabitcd plain country
to
396 m. Bagdehi sta., it enters the
hills, in which it continues until the
plains of Bengal are reached.
416 m. Garpos sta. Hereabouts the
forests are very dense, and in the rainy
season they are largely resorted to by
wild elephants.


78 noun: 4.
I nd'ia
KHANDWA TO AJMERE
Between 427 m. Kounraz'kela sta.
and
445 m. Rourkela sta. near Kalunga,
the Brahmini river is crossed. The
natives here earn a very fair living by
washing the river-sands for gold. The
view lip-stream is very grand when the
river is in flood.
471 m. Monarpur sta. Here the
railway enters the Saranda forests,
which contain some of the finest Sal
trees (Shorea. robusta) in India. The
line winds round hills, passing close
under them on both sides. The sum-
mit of the range is reached through a
heavy cutting leading into a tunnel.
During the construction of the Bengal-
Nagpur Railway through these forests
and heavy jungles very great difficulty
was experienced in procuring labour,
as they have a very bad reputation for
unhealthiness. The few'inhabitants
of these wilds are nearly all Kols, an
aboriginal race.
495 m. Sonua sta. is only 2 m.
from Pamhat, the principal town of
what was formerly a separate Zemin-
dari state of the same name.
In 1857 Arjun Sing the last Rajah of
Parahat rebelled, and was sentenced to
imprisonment for life at Benares. The
estate of Parahat was confiscated, and
is now under the management of
Government.
508 m. Chakardarpur sta. Here
the hills recede. The country is well
cultivated. This is a considerable rail-
way settlement and engine-changing
station. A 00d road connects Chak-
ardarpur wit Ranchi and the Chota-
Nagpur plateau.
Chota-Nag'pur is the seat of a Mis-
sionary Bishop of the Church of
England, who has a handsome Church
and good Schools and Native Mission in
the town of Ranchi: there are com-
munities of Christian Kols, the result
of extensive S.P. G. missions.
[Chaibasa, a civil station, is distant
about 16 m. to the S. A great fair is
held here at Christmas-time, to which
the people of the country flock in
thousan s. Athletic sports, races, and

national dances take place on the last
day of the year, and no better oppor-
tunity can be taken for seeing the
people of this hitherto little-known part
of India]
542 m. Chandil sta. Before this place
is reached, the hills again close in on
the line. Dalma Hill, 3407 ft. above
sea-level, is seen 12 m. E. It is from
the country about here that the labour-
ers for the tea-cultivation in Assam and
Cachar are mainly recruited.
575 m. Purulia sta. The head-
quarters of the Manbhum District,
through which the traveller has been
passing for many miles. The place
has nearly 10,000 inhabitants and the
usual offices of a civil station. From
here also a road runs to Ranchi.
627 m. Asensol junc. sta. [Br. of
about 10 In. W. to the coal-mines (see
Rte. 1).] This place is on the East
Indian Railway, 132 m. from Calcutta.
About 6 m. before Asensol is reached
the river Damuda is crossed on a very
fine bridge. Travellers are again warned
that the line is new, and they must
ascertain that it is all in working order
before they commit themselves to a
through journey.
ROUTE 4
KHANDWA TO Amman (Rajputana
and Malwa Metre Rly.)
From Bombay 858 m. Khandwa junc. sta.
The traveller is here transferred to the
metre-gauge line.
At 38 m., Mortakka sta., D.B., the
Nerbudda river is crossed by a fine
bridge, with a cart-road under the rails.
41 m. Barwaha sta. This neighbour-
hood abounds in large game of every sort.


ROUTE 4.
UNKARJI 79
[A good bridle road of 7 in leads to
Unkm'ji, a place quite worth visiting.
The country is wild, wooded, and very
pretty. The expedition cannot be done
rapidly, and is necessarily fatiguing.
Provisions must be taken for the day.
Unkarji, or more properly Omkarji,
derived from the mystic syllable 0m
(an ejaculation used at the beginning
of a prayer). The Great Temple of
Omkar is situated in the island of
Mandhata, in the Nerbudda. It appears
that the island was originally called
Baidurya Mani Parvat, but its name
was changed to Mandhata as a boon
from Shiva to Rajah Mandhatri, the 17th
monarch of the Solar Race, who per-
formed a great sacrifice here to that
deity.
The area of the isle is about five-
sixths of a sq. m., and a deep ravine
cuts it from N. to S. At the N. the
ground slopes gently, but terminates
at the S. and E. in precipices 500 ft.
high. At this point the S. bank of
the Nerbudda is equally steep, and
between the cliffs the river is exceed-
ingly deep, and full of alligators and
large fish. Hunter says that the N.
branch of the Nerbudda is called the
Kaveri, and it is believed that a stream
so called enters the Nerbudda 1 In.
higher up, passes unmixed through it,
and again leaves it at Mandhata, thus
making it a double junction of two
holy rivers.
On both sides of the river the rocks
are of a greenish hue, very boldly
stratified. It is said that the Temple
of Omkar and that of Amresliwar on
the S. bank of the river are two of the
twelve great temples which existed in
India when Mahmud of Ghazni des-
troyed Somnath in 1024 A.D. During
the wars of the 17th and 18th centuries,
the S. banks were deserted and over-
grown with jungle, and when the
Peshwa desired to repair the temple it
could not be found, so a new one was
built, with a group of smaller ones.
Afterwards part of it was found, and
the late Rajah Mandhata built a temple
over it; but its sanctity and even its
name have been appropriated by that
which the Peshwa built.
The Rajah Mandhata, who is hered-

itary custodian of the temples, is a
Bhilala, who claims to be 28th de-
scendant of the Chauhan Bharat Sing,
who took Mandhata from Nathu Bhil
in 1165 A.D. The old temples have
suffered from the Mohammedans, and
every dome has been overturned and
every figure mutilated. The gateways
are finely carved. The oldest temple is
that on the Birkhala rocks at the E.
end, where devotees used to cast them-
selves over the cliffs up till the year
1824, when the custom was abandoned.
The temple consists of a courtyard,
with a verandah and colonnades sup-
ported b massive pillars boldly carved.
On the iill are the ruins of a very fine
Temple to Siddeshoara Mahacleoa, which
stood on a plinth 10 ft. high. Round
the plinth was a frieze of elephants, 5
ft. high, carved in relief with remark-
able skill, on slabs of yellow sandstone,
but all but two of the elephants are
mutilated.
In front of the Temple to Chart Som-
nath is an immense bull carved in a fine
green stone, and 100 yds. farther is a
pillar 20 ft. long. On the island itself
all the temples are Shivite, but on the
N. bank of the Nerbudda are some old
temples t0 Vishnu, and a group of Jain
temples. Where the river bifurcates
are some ruined gateways, and a large
building on which are 24 figures of
Vishnu, well carved in green stone.
Among them is a. large figure of the
boar Avatar. On an image of Shiva,
in the same building, is the date 1346
A.D. Farther down the bank, in the
Ravana ravine, is a prostrate figure
18% ft. long, with ten arms holding
clubs and skulls. On its chest is a
scorpion, and at its right side a rat,
and one foot rests on a prostrate human
figure.
The bed of the ravine is covered with
huge basalt blocks slightly carved.
The Jain Temples stand on an eminence
a little back from the river. The
largest is on a plinth of basalt, 5 ft.
high. The E. wall is still complete.
On each side of the doorway is a figure
with Shivite and Jain emblems curi-
ously intermixed. The hills near these
temples, as well as the island, are
covered with remains of habitations.


80 Room 4.
India.
KHANDWA TO AJMERE
A great fair is held at the end of
October, attended by 15,000 persons.
According to a pro hecy, the fulfilment
of which the Bra mans at Mandhata
anxiously expect, the sanctity of the
Ganges will soon ex ire and be trans-
ferred to the Nerbu da. The scenery
around the island is beautiful]
58 m. Choral sta. From this point
the ascent of the ghat commences and
continues almost into Mhow. The
scenery is very fine. On approaching,
71 m., Patal Pani sta. look out on the
l. for the waterfall of that name.
74 m. Mhow sta. (R. ), D. B., in the
territory of Holkar, an important mili~
tary cantonment of British and native
troops, headquarters of a first-class
district command, 1900 ft. above
sea-level, pop. 27,000. Troops are
stationed here as provided in the Treaty
of Mandsaur of 1818. Mhow has no
special interest for a traveller. The
buildings and institutions are those
common to all places where troops are
stationed.
[From Mhow an expedition may be
made to the ruins of the deserted city
of Mandu (Mandoo‘arh), the ancient
capital of the kingdom of Malwa. It
is in the territory of the Maharajah of
Dhar, and the best route is by tonga
or carriage to the town of Dhar (10 m.),
taking an introduction from the politi-
cal agcnt to the Maharajah, who will
then make arrangements for the re-
maining 20 In. of the journey. Dhar
is a walled town of some historical
and archaeological interest, containing
several ruined mosques.
1944 ft. above sea-level, and occupies
8 m. of ground, extending along the
crest of the Vindhyas ; and is se arated
from the tableland, with which it is on
a level, by a valle . According to
Malcolm, Mandogar was founded in
313 A.D.
Among the buildings of which ruins
yet remain are the J umma Musjid, less
injured than any of the others, and said
to be the finest and largest specimen
of Afghan architecture extant in India ;
the marble mausoleum of Hoshang
Ghori, King of Malwa, who raised the
Mandu is'

city to great splendour ; and the palace
of Baz Bahadur, another kin of Malwa.
These must at one time ave been
magnificent buildings, and are still, in
their ruined state, very striking on
account of their massive proportions.
The fortifications were constructed by
Hoshang Ghori, who reigned in the
beginning of the 15th century, and in
whose time the city attained its greatest
splendour. In 1526 Mandogarh was
taken by Bahadur Shah, ruler of Gu-
zerat, and annexed to his dominions, of
which it remained part until their
conquest by Akbar in 1570. Of late
years measures have been taken for the
preservation of some of the most inter-
esting ruins. The place is very wild,
the scenery fine, and large game of all
sorts abounds]
87 m. Indore sta., D. B. This place
is the capital of the state, and the
residence of Holkar, and is a station on
the Rajputana and Malwa Rly., which
starts from Khandwa, on the G.I.P.
Rly. Pop. 75,000.
Indore stands on an elevated and
healthy site. Of recent years modern
improvements have been introduced.
Roads have been metalled, drains
built, the water-supply cared for, and
the princi al streets lighted. Among
the chief o jects of interest are the Lal
Bagh or garden, the mint, high school,
market- lace, reading-room, dispen-
sary, an large cotton-mill. There is
considerable export trade in grain. To
the W. of the city is an antelope pre-
serve. Adjoining the town, on the
other side of the rly., is the British
Residency, an area assigned by treaty,
and containing not only the house and
park of the Governor-General’s agent
and the bungalows occupied by his
staff and other officials, but a bazaar of
some importance, and the central opium
stores and weighing agency. The
barracks for the Govcrnor-General’s
native escort and the Rajkumar College
for the education of youn native chiefs
and nobles are also wit in the Resi-
dency limits.
The palace of the Maharajah (1 m.
from the rly. sta.), with its lofty,
many-storied gateway, is situated al-


ROUTE 4.
FATEHABAD 81
most in the centre of the city, and is a
conspicuous object from every part of
it. It faces E. and is in a small square,
with the Gopal Mandir to the S.,
which was built by Krishna Bai, H.H.'s
mother. To the W. of the palace is
the Sarafa Street, where the money-
lenders, chiefly Marwaris, live. Close
by is the Haldi Bazaar, where the
dealers in opium live, and the Itwar,
or Sunday Street, where a market is
held on Sundays. At the end of this
is the old jail. H.H. sometimes re-
ceives guests in the Lal Bagh mentioned
above, which is on the banks of the
river, and contains a handsome villa.
At one end is a house where several
lions are kept, and there is also an
aviary. In an upper room are portraits
of many Hindu Rajahs. In the lower
story is a handsome hall of audience,
which looks out on a ghat and on the
Sursuti river, which is dammed up
here. From the terraced roof is a fine
view over the country.
The Sursuti river divides the city.
The old capital of the Holkar family was
Maheshvar in Nimar, on the banks of
the Nerbudda, where is the magnificent
Chattri (a monumental memorial) of
Ahalya Bai, an ancestress of Holkar. Sir
John Malcolm says of this lady : “The
character of her administration was for
more than thirty years the basis of the
prosperity which attended the dynasty
to which she belonged. She sat every
day for a considerable period in 0 en
durbar transacting business. Her rst
principle of government appears to
have been moderate assessment and an
almost sacred respect for the native
rights of village officers and proprietors
of land. She heard every complaint
in person, and although she continu-
ally referred causes to courts of equity
and arbitration, and to her ministers
for settlement, she was always acces-
sible, and so strong was her sense of
duty on all points connected with the
distribution of justice, that she ' re-
presented as not only patient, bu un-
wearied in the investigation of the
most insignificant causes when appeals
were made to her decision. It appears,
above all, extraordinary how s e had
mental and bodily powers to go through
[India]
the labour she imposed upon herself,
and which from the age of 30 to that
of 60, when she died, was uni-emitted.
The hours gained from the affairs of
the state were all given to acts of
devotion and charity, and a deep sense
of religion appears to have strengthened
her mind in performance of her worldly
duties. Her charitable foundations
extend all over India, from the Hima-
layas to Cape Comorin, and from Som-
hath to the Temple of Jagannath in
the E." Ahalya Bai is certainly the
most distinguished female character in
Indian history. This short notice is
given as it will probably add interest
to the temples and hats erected by
her, which the traveler will find in
almost every place of note he visits in
India.
112 m. Fatehabad junc. sta. (R.)
From here a short branch line of 26 m.
runs to
[Ujjain, or Ujja'iyini, D. B. This
famous cityis situated on the right bank
of the river Sipra, which falls into the
Chambal after a total course of 120 m.
Ujjain is in the dominions of Sindia,
in Malwa, of which it was once the
capital. It stands in N. lat. 23° 11'
10”, and is the spot which marked
the first meridian of Hindu geo-
graphers. It is said to have been the
seat of the viceroyalty of Asoka, dur-
ing the reign of his father at Fatali-
putra, the capital of M agadha, supposed
to be the modern Patna, about 263
13.0. It is, however, best known as
the capital of the celebrated Vikra-
maditya (Valour’s sun), founder of the
are called Samvat, which begins 57
13.0. He is said to have driven out the
Shakas or Scythians, and to have
reigned over 'almost all N. India. At
his court flourished the Nine Gems of
Hindu literature, viz. Dhanvantari,
Kshapanaka, Amarasinha, Shanku,
Vetala-bhatta, Ghata-karpara, Kali-
dasa, Varanruchi, and Varaha-mihira.
Of these the poet Kalidasa has obtained
a European celebrity. Ujjain, as well
as the whole province of Malwa, was
conquered by ’Alau-din Khilji, who
reigned at Delhi 1295-1317 AJ). In

1387 A.D. the Mohammedan Viceroy
G


82 nourn 4.
India
KHANDWA TO AJMERE
declared himself indc endent. His
name was Dilawar K an Ghori, of
Afghan origin, who ruled from 1387
to 1405, and made Mandu his capital.
In 1531 Malwa was conquered by
Bahadur Shah, King of Guzerat, and in
1571 by Akbar. In 1658 the decisive
battle between Aurangzib and Murad
and their elder brother Dara, was
fought near this city. In 1792 Jas-
want Rao Holkar took Ujjain, and
burned art of it. It then fell into
the han s of Sindia, whose capital it
was till 1810, when Daulat Rao Sindia
removed to Gwalior.
The ruins of ancient Ujjain are
situated about 1 m. to the N. of the
modern city, which is oblong in shape,
and 6 in. in circumference, surrounded
by a stone wall with round towers, and
on all sides by a belt of groves and
gardens. The principal bazaar is a
spacious street, flanked by houses of
two stories, and having also four
mosques, many Hindu temples, and a
palace of Maharajah Sindia. Near the
palace is an ancient gateway, said to
have been part of Vikramaditya's fort.
At the S. end of the city is the Observa~
tory, erected by Jai Sing, Rajah of
Jeypore, in the time of the Emperor
Muhammad Shah. The same prince
erected observatories at Delhi, J eypore,
Benares, and Muttra (see Benares
Observatory). ]
161 m. Ratlam junc. sta. (R.), D.B.
(line in progress to Godhra), is the
capital of a. native state and the resi-
dence of the chief. It was founded by
Ratna, great-grandson of Uday Sing,
Maharajah of J odhpur. Ratna was at
the battle of Fatehabad, near Ujjain,
in which Jaswant Rao Rather, with
30,000 Rajputs, fou ht Aurangzib and
Murad, with the w ole Mo ul army.
Tod, vol. ii. p. 49, says, “ f all the
deeds of heroism erformed that day,
those of Ratna of tlam by universal
consent are pre-eminent.” Outside the
town the chief has a very charming villa
and garden, in which he entertains
guests. The palace in which the Prince
resides is within the walls, and is a fine
new building, with a handsome reception
room. The town is a great emporium

for opium. There is a Chauk or
square, built by Munshi Shahamat
'Ali, who administered the state during
the Rajah’s minority. Beyond this
square is the Chandnl Chauk, in which
the bankers live; and this leads to the
Tirpoli a Gate, outside which is the
Amrit auger tank, which in the rains
is very extensive. In the town is a
college with 500 students.
213 m. Mandsaur sta. A fortified
town, remarkable as being the place
where in 1818, at the end of the
Pindari War, a treaty was made between
the British Government and Holkar.
Here severe fighting occurred in 1857
between the rebels and a. brigade of
British troops moving from Mhow to
relieve the British officers besieged in
the fort of Neemuch. Early in that
memorable year Mandsaur became the
headquarters of a serious rebellion
which threatened all Malwa.
243 m. Neemuch sta. at: (R. ), D.B., is
on the Rajputana and Malwa Rly. line.
A cantonment of British troops con-
taining the usual barracks and sub-
sidiary buildings, also a small fort. In
1857 the place was garrisoned by a
brigade of native troops of all arms of
the Bengal army. This force mutinied
and marched to Delhi, the European
officers taking refuge in the fort, where
they were besieged by a rebel force
from Mandsaur, and defended them-
selves gallantly until relieved by a
brigade from Mhow.
278 m. Chitor sta. :0: From this
point a good road runs to Oodeypur,
the ca )ital of the Meywar state.
Write eforehand to the Resident of
Oodeypur for leave, without which it
will be very difficult to see Chitor pro-
perly, or to proceed thence to Oodeypur.
The station is i m. to the W. of the
Fort, and the road crosses the Gambheri
river by amassive old bridge of gray lime-
stone, with ten arches, all of pointed
shape, except the sixth from the \V.
bank, which is semicircular. The
gateways and towers which existed at
either end of the bridge have now dis-
appeared. Unfortunately the bridge


ROUTE 4.
CHITOR 83
is deficient in water-way, so that floods
pass over the parapets and cut into the
banks, and consequently the ford has
to be used. The date and builder of
the bridge are not known, but it is
popularly said to have been built by
Ari Sing, son of Rana Lakshman, both
of whom were killed in the siege by
’Alau-din, about 1303 an.
When Chitor was the capital of
Meywar, the city was up in the fort,
and the buildings below Were merely
an outer bazaar. The modern town,
called the Talehti or Lower Town of
Chitor, is little more than a walled
village, with narrow, crooked streets,
resembling an outwork to the lower
gate of the principal W. entrance to
the great Port.
The abrupt rocky hill crowned by
this magnificent Fort rises 500 ft. above
the surrounding country, and is a very
conspicuous object, though its great
length of 3§ m. makes it look lower than
it really is. The whole of the summit
is covered with ruins of palaces and
temples, and the slopes with thick
jungle. A single ascent 1 m. long
leads to the summit, and is defended
at intervals by seven very fine monu-
mental gateways, large enough to con-
tain guard-rooms and even fine halls.
They are the Padal Pol, the nearly
obliterated (Broken) Bhairo or Phuta
Pol, the Hanuman Pol, the Ganesh Pol,
the Jorla Pol, the Lakshman Pol, and
the main gate, or Ram Pol.
Immediately outside the Padal Pol
on the l. is an erect stone marking the
spot where Bagh Sing, the chief of
Deolia Pratapgarh, was killed during
the siege of Chitor by Bahadur Shah of
Guzerat, in 1535.
Between the “Broken " and the Hanu-
man gates there are on the rt. two
chattris marking the spots where the
renowned Jaimall of Bednor and his
clansman Kalla were killed in Akbar’s
siege, in 1568. Kalla carried his
wounded chief down to have a last
stroke at the enemy, and died fighting.
The 39 memorial stones are much
venerated, as if marking the shrine of
some minor deity.
Facing the great gate is a pillared
hall, used as a guardhouse, and ap-

parently of ancient construction. From
the top of this hall, on which there are
two four~pillared chattris, a fine view of
the plain is obtained.
The Ram P01 is a large and'hand-
some gateway, crowned by a Hindu
horizontal arch, in which the upper
courses of either side, projecting in-
wards, overlap each other till they
meet, or nearly so, being then slabbed
over. This is the construction of all
the gateways on the ascent, except the
Jorla, though in one, the Lakshman,
the lower angles of the projecting
courses are sloped ofi', giving the whole
the outline of a regular pointed arch.
Inside the gate, on each side, is a fine
hall, supported on square-shaped and
slightly tapering antique pillars.
Within, directly facing the gate,
the hill again rises steeply, and at the
foot of this upper rise is a chattri mark-
ing where Patta Sing fell.
The site of the old city is every-
where covered with ruins. The chief
objects of interest are the Towers of
Fame and Victory, the only two remain-
ing of a great number of similar monu-
ments which probably once adorned the
brow of Chitor.
The old Jain Tower of Fame stands
up grandly on the E. rampart. This
tower is called the small Kirtha'na,
which is a contraction of Kirthi
Stambh. Fergusson thus describes it:
“One of the most interesting Jaina
monuments of the age (the first or
great age of Jaina architecture, which
extended down to about the year 1300,
or perhaps a little after that) is the
tower of Sri Allat (Rana Alluji). It is
a singularly elegant specimen of its
class, about 80 ft. in height, and
adorned with sculptures and mouldings
from the base to the summit. An
inscription once existed at its base,
which gave its date as 896 A.D., and
though the slab was detached, this is
so nearly the date we should arrive at
from the style that there seems little
doubt that it was of that age. It was
dedicated to Adnath, the first of the
Jaina Tirthankars, and his figure is
repeated some hundreds of times on
the face of the tower; but so far as I
could perceive, not that of any of the


84 ROUTE 4.
India
KHANDWA TO AJMERE
other J aina saints. The temple in the
foreground, S. side, is of a more modern
date, being put together, principally,
of fragments of other buildings, which
have disappeared.”
The tower consists of seven stories,
with an internal narrow and cramped
staircase; the top story is open, and
its roof, which rests on pillars, and has
been much damaged by lightning, has
bushes growing on it. Its construction
is locally attributed by some to a Jain
mahajan or banker, and by others to
a lady known as the Khatni Rani.
Fragments of an inscribed stone are on
the ground under a tree just N. of the
tower.
From the W. ridge the view opens
out, and a semicircular valley is seen
with the Elephant reservoir close to
the clitf and a background of trees,
out of which rises the magnificent
J aya-stambh or Tower of Victory. Of
this Mr. Fergusson says: “To Kum-
bo, who reigned from 1418-68, we
owe this tower, which was erected to
commemorate his victory over Mah-
mud, king of Malwa, in 1439. It is a
Pillar of Victory, like that of Trajan
at Rome, but of infinitely better taste
as an architectural object. It has nine
stories, each of which is distinctly
marked on the outside. A stair in
the centre leads to each story, the two
upper ones being open and more orna-
mented than those below. It is 30 ft.
wide at the base, and more than 120
ft. high, the whole being covered with
ornaments and sculptures to such an
extent as to leave no plain part, while
this mass of decoration is kept so sub-
dued that it in no way interferes with
the outline or general effect. The old
dome was injured by lightning, and
a new one was substituted by H.H.
Sarup Sing. The stair is much wider
and easier than that in the Jain tower
(the small Kirthan), and in the inside
are carvings of Hindu deities with the
names below. In the topmost story
are two slabs with long inscriptions.
The tower took seven years in build-
ing, from 1442 to 1449. On the road
at the corner of the lower platform is
a square pillar recording a satz' in 1468,
A.D."

Close by the gate of the Sun, on the
E. rampart, are two large tanks, and ad-
joining them is the fine Palace of Rana
Kumbo, the builder of the Tower of
Victory, a fine example of the domestic
architecture of Rajputana before the
Mussalrnan invasion, showing all the
beauty of detail which characteriscs
such buildings in general. In front is
a court surrounded by guard-rooms and
entered by a vaulted gateway.
The Palace of Ratna Sing (or Bhim)
is a very Cpleasing example of the style of
the Hin u architecture of this country
in the 13th cent. That of his wife
Rani Padmam' is a lar e and beautiful
building overlooking t e tank. From
one of these palaces Akbar carried off
the famous gates now in the fort at
Agra.
The Temple of Vriji, built by Rana '
Kumbo about 1450, is a massive build-
ing with a silcm (or tower) of unusu-
ally large proportions.§ Adjoining it
is a temple, in the same style,
built by his wife, the famous Mira Bai,
of which the chief peculiarity is that
the procession path round the cell is
an open colonnade with four small
pavilions at the corners.
At the highest point in Chitor a broad
terrace has been made, whence there
is a magnificent view.
Near the Tower of Victory .is the
Mahasuta, a small wooded terrace, the
pleasantest spot on the hill, which was
the place of cremation of the Ranas
before Oodeypur was founded. Below,
on a lower terrace, are the Gaumukh
springs and reservoir. The springs
issue from the cliff at places where are
cow-mouth carvings, hence the name.
To the S.W. is a large carved stone
tem le, built by Rana Mukalji. On
the ack wall is a huge carved head.
From Chitor a mail tonga runs to
Oodeypur (see below) in twelve hours.
It meets the mail train from Ajmere.
The cost of one seat is 10 rs., the whole
tonga, 15 rs. At about 5 m. from
Dabok the road passes through the
Debari Gate in the Girwa or Oodeypur
Valley. This is an irregular oval
amphitheatre of about 70 sq. m., un-
dulating in surface, and with occasional
small hills, offshoots from the larger


ROUTE 4.
oonnvrcn 85
ranges which everywhere surround the
valley. The road passes through a
depression in the hills, which is
guarded by a gateway and a lofty wall
running up the slopes on either side.
About 1 to. before reaching the capi-
tal, the Arh river is crossed, it is so
called from the old ruined town of that
name on its banks. This stream
collects the whole drainage of the
Girwa, the natural outlet from which
was dammed up with an immense
masonry embankment by Maha Rana
Uday Sing. He thus formed the
Uday San ar Lake, the surplus waters
from which, escaping, form the Birach
nver.
Oodeypur (Udaipur), the marvel-
lously picturesque capital of the state
of Meywar, the residence of the Maha
Rana and of a political agent, to whom
a suitable introduction should be
brought.
It is difficult to conceive anything
more beautiful than the situation of
this place. Some of the best views are
obtained from the palace, the embank-
ment, or the Dudh Talao, more especi-
ally in the morning, when the early
sun lights up the marble of the water
palaces, with the dark waterbeyond, and
the still darker background of the hills.
The City is surrounded by a bastioned
wall, which towards the S. encloses
several large gardens. The W. side is
- further protected by the lake, and the
N. and E. sides by a moat supplied
from the lake, while on the S. the
fortified hill of Eklinggarh rises steep
and rugged. The principal gateways
are the Hathi Pol or “Elephant Gate,”
to the N. ; the Kherwara Gate, to the
S.; the Suraj Pol, or “Gate of the
Sun,” on the E. ; and the Delhi Gate.
On the side towards the lake is a
handsome Ti'rpoliya, or three-arched
water gateway. Another gate with
massive arches opens on a bridge, and
leads to a suburb on the W. of the lake.
The beautiful Peshola Lake lies to
the W. of the city. It is said to have
been constructed in portions at different
periods. Uday Sing probably com-
menced it, but it erlves its name,
Peshola, from one of the first contrac-

tors. The N. portion is called the Sarup
Saugar, having been constructed by
Maha Rana Sarup Sing. The groves
and palaces on the islands are so beauti-
ful that the traveller will be glad to
pass the whole day there; but the boats
on the lake belong to the Maha Rana,
and are only obtainable through the
Resident. In one of the Palaces the
Emperor Shah Jehan, then Prince
Salim, took shelter from the displeasure
of his father Jehangir. Here are re-
tained some relics of the Prince, and
there is a handsome shrine of polished
stone. Here too the 40 refugees from
Neemuch,at the time of the Mutiny,
were received and protected by the
Maha Rana Sarup Sing. From another
of the palaces, Outram, when taunted
by the Maha Rana, sprang into the
lake, swarming as it was with alligators,
who were being fed, and swam to
shore.
A day should be spent in a visit to
the Royal Palace on the brink of the
lake, if permission can be obtained
from the Resident. The modern part
of the palace, close above the lake,
is the part most accessible. “It is a
most imposing pile of granite and
marble, of quadrangular shape, rising
at least 100 ft. from the ground, and
flanked with octagonal towers, crowned
with cupolas. Although built at various
periods, uniformity of design has been
well preserved ; nor is there in the East
amore striking structure. It stands
upon the very crest of a ridge, runnin
parallel to, but considerably elevated
above the margin of the lake. The
terrace, which is at the E. and chief
front of the palace, extends throughout
its length, and is supported by a triple
row of arches, from the declivity of
the ridge. The height of this arcaded
wall is full 50 ft., and although all is
hollow beneath, yet so admirably is
it constructed, that an entire range of
stables is built on the extreme verge
of the terrace, on which all the forces
of the Maha Rana, elephants, cavalry,
and infantry, are often assembled.
From this terrace the city and the valley
lie before the spectator, whose vision is
bounded only by the distant hills;
while from the summit of the palace


86 ROUTE 5.
India.
ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNPORE
nothing obstructs the view over lake
and mountain.”
A drive should be taken along the
principal street of Oodeypur from the
Hathi Pol through the main bazaar to
the Palace, gradually rising along the
side of the ridge and passing the great
Jagdes Temple. Another drive leads
through the bazaars from either the
Delhi or Suraj Pol Gate to the Gulab
Garden, which, with its stately trees,
beautiful flowers, walks and fountains,
is well worth a visit. Passing through
it, go to the Dudh Talao or “milk
tank,” a branch of the Peshola Lake,
and by a picturesque road- round it
returning to the DB. by the outside
road. ‘
Another visit may be made to Ahar,
3 m. to the E. of the lake, where are
the tombs of the Maha Ranas. These
chattris containing the royal ashes
stand in what is called the Maha Sati,
or royal place of cremation, which is
enclosed by a lofty wall and is adorned
by many fine trees. The most remark-
able are those of Sangmm Sing 11., a
large and beautiful structure, and of
Amara Sing, grandson of Uday Sing.1
Besides the modern village of Ahar,
there is the older town, where are ruined
temples, which are the chief objects of
interest, and also some still more
ancient mounds.
If he has time, the traveller may go
to see the great lake at Kankroli, or
Rajnagar, called the Rajsamudra, 30
m. to the N. of Oodeypur. The re-
taining wall of this lake is of massive
masonry, in many laces 40 ft. high
and faced with marb e. The masonry
embankment is 2 m. long and sup-
ported by earthen embankments. There
is a fair cart-track to this place.
The Dhibar, or jaisamand lake,
is about 20 m. 8.131. of Oodeypur city
through a wild country; it is about
9 m. long by 5 m. broad, and is one of
the most beautiful sights in India.
379 m. Nusseerabad sta.,nk DE.
The military cantonment for Ajmere.
The station was originally laid out in
1818 by Sir David Ochterlony. It is a
long, straggling, uninteresting place.
1 See Fergusson.
Good small -game shooting and pig-
sticking are to be had in the neighbour-
hood.
393 m. Ajmero junc. sta. (see Rte. 6.)
ROUTE 5
ITARSI JUNCTION T0 CAWNPORE,
raaouon BHOPAL, BHILSA, AND
JHANSI
Itarsi junc. sta. 464 m. from Bombay
on the G.I.P. Railway (see Rte. 1).
11 m. Hoshangabad sta., DE. A
town with population of 16,000; the
headquarters of a district of the same
name. The lace contains nothing to
detain a traveller. Passing out of Hosh-
angabad the railway crosses the Ner-
budda on a fine bridge. About 4 m.
N. of the Nerbudda river the ascent
of the ghat commences, and at the top
the line runs on the tableland of
Malwa, which has an average elevation
of 1500 ft.
57 m. Bhopal sta. 1k (R.), D. B. The
town stands on the N. bank of a fine and
extensive lake, 4% m. long and 1% broad.
Bhopal is the capital of a native state,
under the Central Indian Agency. It
has an area of 8200 sq. m. The
dynasty was founded by Dost Muham-
mad, an Afghan chief in the service of
Aurangzib, who took advantage of the
troubles that followed the Emperor's
death to establish his independence.
His family have always shown their
friendship for the British. In 1778,
when General Goddard made his famous
march across India, Bho al was the
only Indian state which s owed itself
friendly. In 1809, when General Close

commanded another expedition in the


noura 5.
BHILSA 87
neighbourhood, the Nawab of Bhopal
app ied to be received under British
protection, but without success. The
Nawab then obtained assistance from
the Pindaris, in the gallant struggle he
maintained to defend himself against
Sindia and Raghoji Bhonsla, in the
course of which his capital underwent
a severe but ineffectual siege.
In 1817 the British Government in-
tervened and formed an alliance with
the Nawab of Bhopal, who was in
1818 guaranteed his possessions by
treaty, on condition of furnishing 600
horse and 400 infantry, to maintain
which five districts in Malwa were
assigned to him. He was soon after-
wards killed by a istol accidentally
discharged by a child). His nephew, an
infant, was declared his successor, and
betrothed to his infant daughter, but
the Nawab’s widow, Khudsya Begam,
endeavoured to keep the government
in her own hands, and the declared
heir resigned his claim to the throne
and to the hand of the Nawab’s daughter
Sikandar Begam in favour of his brother
J ehangir Muhammad. After long dis-
sensions, J ehangir Muhammad was in-
stalled as Nawab, in 1837, through the
mediation of the British. He died in
1844, and was succeeded by his widow,
Sikandar Begam, who ruled till her
death in 1868. She left one daughter,
Shah Jehan Begam. The State main-
tains 694 horse, 2200 foot, 14 field guns
and 43 other guns, with 291 artillery-
men, and pays £20,000 to the British
Government in lieu of a contingent.
The name of Bho a1 is said to be
derived from that of its founder, Rajah
Bhoj, and the dam by which he formed
the Tank, darn being in Hindu pal.
Thus Bhojpal has been corrupted into
Bhopal. The city proper is enclosed
by a masonry wall, 2 m. in circuit.
The traveller should visit the Palace
of the Begum, which is not of much
architectural beauty, but is a large and
imposing building; the Citadel, from
the walls of which a fine view of the
lake and surrounding country is ob-
tained; the Jumma Musjid, built by
the late Khudsya Begam; the Moti
Musjid, built by the late Sikandar
Begam (it somewhat resembles the

Mosque at Delhi); the Mint and Ar-
senal, and the Gardens of the Khudsya
and Sikandar Begams.
The town of Bhopal is well kept and
lighted, and fairly clean. In the city
proper, water has been laid on to all
the houses. The Water-works were
built by the Khudsya Begam, and are
much su erior to those of most Indian
cities. ' he smaller lake E. of the town,
2 m. long, was constructed by Chota
Khan, minister of Nawab Hyat
Muhammad Khan, a former ruler of
Bhopal. The dam is of masonry, and
is an imposing work.
90. m. Bhilsa sta. A fortified town
in the Gwalior state. Pop. 7000. The
town is situated on the rt. or E. bank
of the river Betwa, and is perched on
a rock of 1546 ft. above sea-level, and
has a fort enclosed by a castellated
stone wall, and surrounded by a ditch ;
the suburb outside has some spacious
streets containing good houses. In the
fort lies an old gun, 19'} ft. in length,
with a bore of 10 in., said to have been
made by order of the Emperor J ehangir.
After changing hands several times,
Bhilsa was finally, in 1570, incorporated
with the Empire of Delhi by Akbar.
The tobacco produced in the vicinity
of the town is considered the finest in
India. Bhilsa is now chiefly note-
worthy as a famous place of Hindu pil-
grimage to the temples, picturesquer
situated in the bed of the Betwa river,
and as giving its name to the remark-
able and interesting series of Buddhist
Topes found in its neighbourhood.1
Mr. Fergusson says, in his History
(pf Architecture : “ The most extensive,
and perhaps the most interesting group
of topes in India, is that known as the
Bhilsa Topes: within a district not
exceeding 10 m. E. and W., and 6 m.
N. and S., are five or six groups of
topes, containing altogether between
25 and 30 individual examples. ’—'
Notwithstanding all that has been
1 These are described in General Cunning-
ham's Bhilsa Tapes, 1 vol. 8vo. 1854; also in
Fergusson’s Tree and Serpent l'l’crship. Onehalt‘
of this book and 45 of its plates, besides wood-
cuts, are devoted to the illustration of the
Great Tops. A cast of the E. gateway is in
the South Kcnsiugton Museum.


88 ROUTE 5.
I who
ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNI’ORE
written about them, we know‘very little
that is certain regarding their object
and their history.
5 m. from Bilsa. is Sanchi, where


\u 7!
\_l_l-_I_A_L_>_A_a_s_l
Plan.
there is a group of 11 topcs. Of these
the principal is—

cended by a broad double ramp on one
side. It was probably used for proces-
sions round the monument. The centre
of the mound is quite solid, being of
bricks laid in mud, but the exterior is
faced with dressed stones, over which
was cement nearly 4 in. thick, origin-
ally adorned, no doubt, with paintings
or ornaments in relief.
As is usual in these Buddhist topes,
the building is surrounded by “ rails,”
exhibiting the various steps by which
the modes of decorating them were
arrived at, with 4 gateways or torans
(3 in situ), covered with most elaborate
sculptures, quite unequalled by any
other examples known to exist in India.
The period of erection probably ex—
tended from about 250 13.0. to the 1st
cent. of the Christian era; the rails
were constructed first and the gate-
ways at intervals afterwards.
Besides the group at Sanchi, there is
at Sonari, 6 m. otf, a group of eight
topes, of which two are important struc-
tures in square courtyards, and in one
of these numerous relics were found.
At Sadhara, 3 n1. farther, is a tope 101
ft. in diameter, which yielded no relics.




Section, Great Tope at Sanchi.
The Great Tope, a dome 106 ft. in In one tope, 24 ft. in diameter, were
diameter and 42 ft. high. On the top
is a flat space 34 ft. in diameter, once
surrounded by a stone railing. In the
centre was a “ Tee,” intended to repre-
sent a relic-casket. The dome, 42 ft.
high, rests on a sloping base 120 ft. in
diameter, and 14 ft. high, and was as-
found relics of Sariputra and others
like those found at Sanchi.
At Bhojpur, 7 m. from Sanchi, are
37 topes, the largest 66 ft. in diameter,
and in the next to it important relics
were found. At Auditor, 5 In. W. of
Bhojpur, is a group of three small but


ROUTE 5.
snueoa 89
very interesting topes. “As far as can
be at present ascertained,” says Mr. Fer-
gusson, “ there is no reason for assuming
that any of these topes are earlier than
the age of Asoka, 220 B. 0., nor later
than the lst century A.D., though their
rails may be later.”
In 1883, by order of the Government
of India, the main group of buildings
received much attention. The fallen
gateways were set up. The sacred rails
were secured, and, where fallen, were
re-erected. The body of the stupa was
restored to its original shape, and the
processional paths were cleared. Where
it was necessary to put in new stone
for structural purposes the surfaces have
been left quite plain.
143 In. Bina. junc. sta. (R.) A line
from here runs S.E. over an undulating
country to Saugor.
[47 n1. Saugor, D.B. Principal town
and headquarters of Sanger district,
Central Provinces. A military canton-
ment. Pop. 44,000. Saugor stands 1940
ft. above sea-level, on the borders of
a fine lake, nearly 1 m. bread, from
which it derives its name. The lake is
said to be an ancient Banjara work, but
the present city dates only from the
end of the 17th cent, and owes its
rise to a Bundela Rajah, who built a
small fort on the site of the present
structure in 1660, and founded a village
called Parkota, now a quarter of the
modern town. Saugor was next held
by Chatar Sal, andformed part of
the territory left by him on his death
to his ally the Peshwa. Govind Pandit
was appointed by the Peshwa to ad-
minister the country, and his descend-
ants continued to manage it till
shortly before it was ceded to the
British government by the Peshwa Baji
Rao in 1818. During this period the
town was twice plundered by the Pin-
dari chief Amir Khan and his army,
and again by Sindia in 1804. During
the Mutiny of 1857 the town and fort
were held by the English for eight
months, until the arrival of Sir Hugh
Rose. During that time the whole of

the surrounding country was in posses-
sion of the rebels.
Saugor town is well built, with wide
streets. The large bathing-ghats on the
banks of the lake, for the most part
surrounded with Hindu temples, add
much to its appearance.
The existing Fort at Saugor was com-
pleted by the Marathas about 1780.
It stands on a height N.W. of the lake,
commanding the whole of the city and
surrounding country, and consists of 20
round towers, varying from 20 to 40 ft.
in height, connected by thick curtain
walls. It encloses a space of 6 acres,
for the most part covered with old
Maratha buildings two stories high.
The British government have con-
structed a magazine, a large building
now used for medical stores, and a bar-
rack for the European guard. The
only entrance is on the E. side. The
building is now used as the tahsil, and
as the office of the executive engineer.
The large castellated jail, capable of
containing 500 prisoners, is situated
about 11; m. E. of the lake ; the Deputy
Commissioner’s Court is on a hill over-
looking the city and lake ; the Sessions
Court-house, a little to the N. ; and the
city kotwali, or station-house, under
the western walls of the fort. In 1862
an unhealthy swamp lying N.E. of the
lake, which cut off the quarter called
Gopalganj from the rest of the city,
was converted into a large garden with
numerous drives and a piece of orna-
mental water. The civil station begins
with the mint, about 1 m. E. of the
lake, and extends northwards for 1 m.
till joined by the military cantonments,
which extend in a north-easterly direc-
tion for 2} m., with the church in the
centre]
182 m. Lalitpur sta., D.B. Thehcad-
quarters of a district of the same name.
Pop. 11,000. Formerly unimportant,
this place is now becoming more
prosperous. Buddhist remains built
into the walls of modern buildings
indicate that some large shrine once
existed in the neighbourhood.
207 m. Talbahat sta. A picturesque
town with a large piece of altlficial


90 ROUTE 5.
I ndia.
ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNI’ORE
water covering more than 1 sq. m.
The water is retained by damming the
streams that flow through a rocky
barrier about 800 ft. high. The ridge
is covered with old battlements and
defences. The fort was destroyed by
Sir Hugh Rose in 1858.
238 m. Jhansi junc. sta.:k (R), D.B.
(see Rte. 5A), centre of the Indian Mid.
Rly. system. The main line runs N.E.
to Cawnpore, a branch N. to Gwalior and
Agra, and another E. through Banda
to the E. I. Rly. at Manikpur. Jhansi
is one of the main halting-places for
troops proceeding up country. It is
well worthy of a visit on account of its
Fort, which the British Government
have exchanged with Maharajah Sindia
for Gwalior.
The Province of Bundelkund, in
which J hansi is situated, has for ages
been one of the most turbulent and
difficult to manage in all India. In
the early part of the 17th century the
Orchha state was governed by Bir
Sing Dee, who built the fort of J hansi,
8 m. to the N. of his capital, which is
situated on an island in the Betwa
river. He incurred the heavy dis-
pleasure of Akbar by the murder of
Abul Fazl, the Emperor’s favourite
minister and historian, at the instiga-
tion of Prince Salim, afterwards known
as the Emperor Jehangir. A force was
accordingly sent against him in 1602 ;
the country wasravaged and devastated,
but Bir Sing himself contrived to
escape. On the accession of his patron,
Salim, in 1605, he was naturally
pardoned, and rose into great favour;
but when, on the death of that ern-
peror in 1627, Shah Jehan mounted
the throne, Bir Sing revolted. His
rebellion was unsuccessful, and although
he was permitted to keep possession of
his dominions, he never regained all
his former power and independence.
During the troubled times which suc-
ceeded, Orehha, was sometimes in the
hands of the Mohammedans and some-
times fell under the power of Bundela
chieftains. In 1732 Chatar Sal found
it expedient to call in the aid of the
Marathas, who were then invading the
Central Provinces under their first

Peshwa, Baji Rae. They came to his
assistancewith their accustomed promp-
titude, and wererewarded on the Raj ah's
death, in 1734, by a bequest of one-
third of his dominions. The territory
so anted included portions of the
mo ern division of Jhansi, but not the
existing district itself. In 1742, how-
ever, the Marathas found a pretext for
attacking the Orchha. State, and an-
nexing that amongst other territories.
Their general founded the city of J hansi,
and eopled it with the inhabitants of
01131318.
The district remained under the rule
of the Peshwas until 1817, when they
ceded their rights to the E. 1. Com-
pany. Under British protection, native
Rajahs ruled until their folly and in-
competency ruined the country, and
when the dynasty died out in 1853
their territories lapsed to the British
Government. The Jhansi State, with
Jaloun and Chanderi Districts, were
then formed into a Superintendency,
while a pension was granted to the
Rani or widow of the late Rajah Rae.
The Rani, however, considered herself
aggrieved, both because she was not
allowed to adopt an heir, and because
the slaughter of cattle was permitted
in the Jhansi territory. Reports were
spread which excited the religious pre-
judices of the Hindus.
The events of 1857 accordingly found
Jhansi ripe for rebellion. In May it
was known that the troops'were dis-
affected, and on the 5th of June a few
men of the 12th Native Infantry seized
the fort containing the treasure and
magazine. Many European officers
were shot the same day. The re-
mainder, who had taken refuge in
a fort, capitulated a few days after,
and were massacred with their families
to the number of 66 persons, in spite of
a promise of protection sworn on the
Koran and Ganges water. The Rani
then attempted to seize the supreme
authority, but the usual anarchic
quarrels arose between the rebels, during
which the Orchha leaders laid siege
to Jhansi and plundered the country
mercilessly. On the 5th of April 1858
the fort and town were recovered by Sir
Hugh Rose, who marched on to Kalpi


ROUTE 5.
KALPI 91
without being able to leave a garrison
at Jhansi. After his departure, the
rebellion broke out afresh, only the
Gasarai chieftain in the N. remaining
faithful to the British cause. On the
11th August a flying column under
Colonel Liddell cleared out the rebels
from Mhow, and after a series of sharp
contests with various guerilla leaders,
the work of reorganisation was fairly
set on foot in November. The Rani
herself had previously fled with Tantia
Topi, and finally fell in a battle at the
foot of the rock fortress of Gwalior.
The siege of Jhansi occupied Sir
Hugh Rose’s army from 21st March
till 4th A ril 1858, and cost us 343 in
killed an wounded, of whom 36 were
officers. The engineers lost 4 ofiicers
leadin the attacking parties at the final
escala e. Malleson, quoting Sir Hugh
Rose, gives the following description of
J hansi at the time of the investment :—
“The great strength of the Port of
Jhansi, natural as well as artificial,
and its extent, entitle it to a place
among fortresses. It stands on an
elevated rock, rising out of a plain, and
commands the city and surrounding
country. It is built of excellent and
most massive masonry. The fort is
difficult to breach, ‘because composed of
granite; its walls vary in thickness
from 16 to 20 ft. It has extensive and
elaborate outworks of the same solid
construction, with front and flanking
embrasures for artillery~fire, and loop-
holes, of which in some places therewere
five tiers for musketry. On one tower,
called the ‘ white turret,’ since raised in
height, waved in mud defiance the
standard of the igh-spirited Rani.
The fortress is surrounded on all
sides by the city of J hansi, the W. and
part of the S. face excepted. The
steepness of the rock protects the W. ;
the fortified city wall springs from
the centre of its S. face, and ends
in a high mound or mamelon, which
protects by a flanking fire S. face. The
mound was fortified by a strong circular
bastion for five guns, round art of
which was drawn a ditch, 12 t. deep
and 15 ft. broad of solid masonry.
“ The city of J hansi is about Q m. in

circumference, and is surrounded by a
fortified and massive wall, from 6 to 12
ft. thick, and varying in height from
18 to 30 ft., with numerous flanking
bastions armed as batteries, with ord-
nance, and loop-holes, with a banquette
for infantry. The town and fortress
were garrisoned by 11,000 men, com-
posed of rebel se oys, foreign mercen-
aries, and local evies, and they were
led by a woman who believed her cause
to be just."
It is being modernised and supplied
with strong armament. The views
from the top and from the road round
the ramparts are very extensive.
The old civil station (Jhansi Naoa-
bad) attached to Jhansi before 1861
remains the headquarters of the dis-
trict, and is under British rule.
[7 m. from J hansi, on the river Betwa,
is the interesting native fort of Orchha,
well worth a visit]
Between Jhansi and Cawnpore the
country abounds in black buck. Num-
erous old fortified villages are seen
from the rly. train.
308 m. 0rai( Urai) sta. (R.) A thriving
place of 8000 inhabitants. The head-
quarters of the J aloun district. Before
1839 the place was an insignificant
village. There are some handsome
Mohammedan tombs and the usual
public offices.
329 m. Kalpi sta. on the Indian
Midland Railway. The town is situ-
ated on the right bank of the Jumna
amongst deep rugged ravines. The
river here is crossed by an iron girder
brid e. Tradition says that the town
was founded by Basdeo or Vasudeva, who
ruled at Kamba from 330 to 400 A.D.
During the Mogul period Kalpi
played so lar e a part in the annals of
this part of ndia that it would be im-
possible to detail its history at length.
After the Marathas interfered in the
affairs of Bundelkund, the headquarters
of their government were fixed at Kalpi.
At the time of the British occupation
of Bundelkund in 1803, Nana Gobind
Rao seized upon the town. The British
besieged it in December of that year,
and, after a few hours’ resistance, it
surrendered. Kalpi was then included
intheterritorygranted toRajahHimmat


92 ROUTE 5A.
AGRA TO MANIKPUR
Bahadur, on whose death, in 1804, it
once more lapsed to Government. It
was next handed over to Gobind Rao,
who exchanged it two years later for
villages farther to the W. Since
that time Kalpi has remained a British
possession. After the capture of Jhansi,
and the rout of the mutineers at Koonch,
they fell back on Kalpi, which through-
out the previous operations they had
made their principal arsenal. Here, on
226. May 1858, Sir Hugh Rose (Lord
Strathnairn) again defeated a large
force of about 12,000 under the Rani of
Jhansi, Rao Sahib, and the N awab of
Bands, who then fled to Gwalior.
Kalpi was formerly a place of far
greater importance than at the present
ay. The East India Company made
it one of their principal stations for
providing their commercial invest-
ments. The western outskirt of the
town, along the river side, contains a
large number of ruins, notably the
tomb called the 84 Domes, and 12
other handsome mausoleums. At one
time the town adjoined these ruins,
but it has gradually shifted south-
eastward. Ganesganj and Ternanganj,
two modern quarters in that direction,
at present conduct all the traffic. The
buildings of the old commercial agency
crown some higher ground, but are now,
for the most part, empty. A ruined
fort, situated on the steep bank of the
J umna, overhangs the ghat.
374 m. Cawnpore junc. sta. (see
Rte. 18).
ROUTE 5A
A.an r0 Gwamon, JRANSI, BANDA,
AND MANIKPUR.
Starting from the Agra Fort Station
(Rte. 9) by the Indian Midland Rail-
way, the traveller reaches at

36 m. Dholpur sta. (R.), the chief town
of the native state of thatname. In 1658
Aurangzib defeated and killed his elder
brother Dara-Shikoh at Ran-ka-
Chabutara, 3 m. E. of Dholpur. The
imperial princes, competitors for the
crown, 'Azim and Mu’azzim, fought a
great battle in 1707 at the village of
Barehta near Dholpur, and the former
was killed, on which Mu’azzim became
emperor, with the title of Bahadur Shah.
The sights of Dholpur are not numer-
ous. The Palace is a moderately hand-
some and very commodious building.
The tank of Much Kund, about 2 m.
from Dholpur, is about § m. long, and
contains several islets, on which are
pavilions. The banks are lined with
temples, but none of them are ancient
or remarkable. There are alligators in
the tank, but though crowds of pilgrims
bathe in the waters, there is no story
of any of them bein carried off.
The river Chain al runs through
this state, and is bordered everywhere
by a labyrinth of ravines, some of which
are 90 ft. deep, and extend to a distance
of from 2 to 4 m. from the river banks,
near which panthers are sometimes
found. The floods of the Chambal are
very remarkable. The hi hest recorded
flood above summer leve rose no less
than 97 ft. There is a very fine Bridge
over the stream about 4 m. from Dhol-
pur, built of the famous red sandstone
of Dholpur, a ridge of which, from 560
to 1074 ft. above sea-level, runs for
60 m. through the territory, and sup-
plies inexhaustible quarries.
77 m.GWALIOR.sta. * (R.), DE. The
capital of Maharajah Siudia, and famous
for its fort, one of the most ancient and
renowned strongholds in India.
For many years a. strong brigade of
British troops was maintained at Morar,
a few in. E. of the fort. The latter
was garrisoned by British troops from
1858 to 1886, when it was restored to
the Maharajah’s custody, and Gwalior
and Morar were made over to him in
exchange for Jhansi.
History.
General Cunningham, in vol. ii. of
the Reports of the Archaeological Sur-


ROUTE 5A.
GWALIOR 93
oey, gives a most valuable account of
Gwalior. He says that of the three
16th and 17th cent. authorities for the
early history of Gwalior, Kharg Rai
says Gwalior was founded 310 13.0.;
that Fazl ’Ali assigns 275 A.I). as the
year of its foundation; and that this
date is also adopted by Hiraman.
Tiefl'enthaler, Wilford, and Cunning-
ham agree in fixing on this later date.
According to Cunningham, Toramana
was a tributary prince under the Gup-
tas, against whom he rebelled, and
became sovereign of all the territory
between the Jumna and Nerbudda,
and in the reign of his son, 275
A.D., the Sun Temple was built, the
Suraj Kund excavated, and Gwalior
founded, by Suraj Sen, a Kachhwaha
chief, who was a leper, and coming
when hunting to the hill of Gopagiri,
on which the Fort of Gwalior now
stands, got a drink of water from
.the hermit Gwalipa, which cured him
of his leprosy. In gratitude for that
he built a fort on the hill, and called
it “Gwaliawar,” or Gwalior. Suraj
Sen got a new name, Suhan Pal, from
the hermit, with a promise that his
descendants should reign as long as
they were called Pal; so 83 reigned,
but the 84th was called Tej Kara, and
having discarded the name of Pal, lost
his kingdom.
This Kaebhwaha dynasty was suc-
ceeded by seven Parihara princes, who
ruled for 103 years till 1232 A. 1)., when
Gwalior was taken by Altamsh, in the
21st year of the reign of Sarang Deo.
General Cunningham found an in-
scription on an old stone sugar-mill at
Chitauli between Nurwar and Gwalior,
which is dated Samwat 1207:1150
A.D., in the reign of Ram Deo, which
agrees with and strongly corroborates
the dates he has accepted.
The capture of Gwalior by Altamsh
was commemorated in an inscription
placed over the gate of the Urwahi,
and the Emperor Babar states that he
saw it, and the date was 630 A.H.=
1232 A.D. Briggs, in a note to Firish-
tab, says it is still to be seen, but
General Cunningham sought for it in
vain. From 1232 to Timar’s invasion
in 1398 the Emperor of Delhi used

Gwalior as a state prison. In 1375
A.D. the Tumar chief, Bir Sing
Deo, declared himself independent,
and founded the Tumar dynasty of
Gwalior.
In 1416 and 1421 the Gwalior chiefs
paid tribute to Khizr Khan of Delhi,
and in 1424 Gwalior, being besieged
by Hushang Shah of Malwa, was de-
livered by Mubarak Shah of Delhi.
In 1426, 1427, 1429, and 1432, the
King of Delhi marched to Gwalior, and
exacted tribute. Dimgar Sing, 1425,
commenced the great rock sculptures
at Gwalior, and his son Kirti Sing,
1454, completed them. In 1465 Husain
Sharki, king of Jaunpur, besieged
Gwalior, and obliged it to pay tribute.
Man Sing acknowledged the supremacy
of Bahlol Lodi and of Sikandar Lodi,
but the latter in 1505 marched against
Gwalior, fell into an ambuscade and
was repulsed with great loss. In
1506, however, he captured Himmat-
garh, but passed by Gwalior, which he
despaired of reducing. In 1517 he
made great preparations at Agra for
the conquest of Gwalior, but died of
quinsy. Ibrahim Lodi had sent an
army of 30,000 horse, 300 elephants,
and other troops, against Gwalior, and
a few days after they reached that place
Man Sing died. He was the greatest
of the Tumar princes of Gwalior, and
constructed many useful works, amongst
others, the great tank to the N .W. of
Gwalior, called the Mott Jh'il. Cun-
ningham says his alace affords the
noblest specimen 0 Hindu domestic
architecture in N. India. He was a
patron of the Fine Arts, and an elephant
sculptured in his reign, with two riders,
was admired by the Emperor Babar,
Abu-l-Fazl, and the traveller Finch.
After Man Sing’s death his son, Vikra-
maditya, sustained the siege for a year,
but at last surrendered, and was sent
to Agra.
Babar sent Rahimdad with an army
to Gwalior, which he took by a strata-
gem, suggested by the holy Muhammad
Ghaus. In 1542 Abu-l-Kasim, Gover-
nor of Gwalior, surrendered his fortress
to Sher Shah. In 1545 Salim, son of
Sher, brought his treasure from Chunar
to Gwalior, and in 1553 died at the


94 ROUTE 5A.
AGRA TO MANIKPUR
latter place. Rana Sah, son of Vikram,
tried to seize Gwalior, and fought a
great battle, which lasted for three days,
with Akbar’s troops there, but was de-
feated. ~He then went to Chitor. In
1761 Gwalior was taken by Bhim Sing,
the Jat Rana of Gohad, and in 1779
captured by Major Popham from the
Marathas, into whose hands it had
fallen, and restored to the Rana of
Goliad. It was a ain taken by the
Marathas under ahadaji Sindia in
1784, and again ca tured by the English
under General W ite in 1803, and re-
stored to them in 1805. In 1844, after
the battles of Maharajpur and Paniar,
it was a third time occupied by the
British.
At the time of the Mutiny the great
Maratha prince, Sindia, had, besides
10, 000 troops of his own, a contingent
consisting of 2 regts. of Irregular
Cavalry—1158 men of all ranks, 7
regts. of Infantry aggregating 6412 men,
and 26 guns, with 748 Artille men.
This force was oflicered by Englis men,
and the men were thoroughly drilled
and disciplined, and were, in fact, ex-
cellent soldiers, as they proved by de-
feating and almost driving into the
river General Windham’s brigade at
Cawnpore. _
At this time Sindia was in his 23d
year, an athletic and active man, and
a first-rate horseman and fond of
soldiering. It is admitted that he
could handle troops on parade as well
as most men, and he possessed an
extraordinary liking for the military
profession. Had he decided to throw
in his lot with the rebels he might
have marched to Agra, which was only
65 in. distant, and with his powerful
army must have made himself speedily
master of that city ; and the results
might have been most disastrous to the
British. But Sindia's able gminister,
Dinkar Rao, knew something of the
power of the English Government;
knew that though he could have ob-
tained a temporary success he would be
certainly overpowered in the end.
He therefore persuaded Sindia to deal
subtilely with his dangerous army, and
by delays and evasions kept them for a
time from issuing from their canton-

ments and adding their formidable
strength to the rebel army. He could
not, however, prevent them killing their
English officers.
Seven officers and several ladies and
children escaped the showers of bullets
that were aimed at them, and reached
the Residency, or Sindia’s Palace.
These were sent on by the Maratha
Prince to the Dholpur territory, where
they were most kindly treated and sent
to Agra.
For some months Gwalior was quiet,
though the country round was in
rebellion, and on the 22d May 1858 a
very important battle was fought in
front of Kal i in which the mutineers
were severe y defeated by Sir Hugh
Rose, and the same night they retreated
in the direction of Gwalior, and on the
night of the 30th, they reached the
neighbourhood of Morar.
On the 1st June Sindia with all
his army moved out to meet them.
The engagement took place about 2
m. E. of Morar. Malleson thus de-
scribes it :—
“He had with him 6000 infantry,
about 1500 cavalry, his own bodyguard
600 strong, and 8 guns, ranged in 3
divisions,—his guns centre. About 7
o'clock in the morning the rebels ad-
vanced. As they approached, Sindia’s
8 guns opened on them. But the
smoke of the discharge had scarcely
disappeared when the rebel skirmishcrs
closed to their flanks, and 2000 horse-
men charging at a gallop, carried the
guns. Simultaneously with their
charge, Sindia’s infantry and cavalry,
his bodyguard alone excepted, either
joined the rebels or took up a position
indicative of their intention not to
fight. . . . The rebels then attacked
the bodyguard, who defended them-
selves bravely, but the contest was too
unequal, and Sindia turned and fled,
accompanied by a very few of the sur-
vivors. He did not draw rein till he
reached Agra.”
Sir Hugh Rose, following up the
fugitive enemy, whose destination at
first it was impossible to guess, reached
Bahadarpur, 5 m. E. of Morar, on the
16th June. There he was joined by
Brigadier-General Sir Robert Napier


ROUTE 5A.
GWALIOR 95
(Lord Napier of Magdala), who took
command of the 2d Brigade. In spite
of the long and fatiguing march which
his force had endured, Sir Hugh made
arrangements to attack the enemy at
once, and drove them from their posi-
tion.
“The main body of the enemy, driven
through the cantonments, fell back on
a dry nullah with high banks, running
round a village which they had also
occupied. Here they maintained a
desperate hand-to-hand struggle with
the British. The 71st Highlanders
suffered severely, Lieutenant Neave,
whilst leading them, falling mortall
wounded; nor was it till the nulla
was nearly choked with dead that the
village was carried. The victory was
completed by a successful pursuit and
slaughter of the rebels by Captain
Thompson, 14th Light Dragoons, with
a wing of his regiment.
“ The result, then, had justified Sir
Hugh’s daring. Not only had he dealt
a heavy blow to the rebels, but he
gained a most important strategical
point."
(The visitor to the Fort sees this
battle-field below him to the E. and
S.)
Early next morning (the 17th of
June), Brigadier Smith marched from
Antri and reached Kotah-ki-serai, 5 m.
to the S.E. of Gwalior, without opposi-
tion. There he discovered the enemy
in great force, and showing a disposi-
tion to attack. “Reconnoitring the
ground in front of him, he found it
very difficult, intersected with nullahs
and impracticable for cavalry. He dis-
covered, moreover, that the enemy’s
guns were in position about 1500 yds.
from Kotah-ki-serai, and that their
line lay under the hills, crossing the
road to Gwalior. Notwithstanding
this, Smith determined to attack.
First he sent his horse artillery to the
front, and silenced the enemy’s guns,
which limbered up and retired. This
accomplished, Smith sent his infantry
across the broken ground, led by Raines
of the 95th. Raines led his men,
covered by skirmishers, to a point about
50 yds. from the enemy’s works, when
the skirmishers made a rush, the rebels

falling back as they did so. Raines then
found himself stopped by a deep ditch
with 4 ft. of water," but surmounting
the difficulty he gained the abandoned
entrenchment. “Whilst he was con-
tinuing his advance across the broken
and hilly ground, Smith moved his
cavalry across the river Umrah, close
to Kotah-ki-serai. They had hardly
crossed when they came under fire
of a battery which till then had
escaped notice. At the same time a
body of the enemy threatened the
baggage at Kotah-ki-serai. Matters
now became serious. But Smith sent
back detachments to defend the baggage
and rear, and pushed forward. The
road, before debouching from the hills
between his position and Gwalior, ran
for several hundred yards through
a defile along which a canal had been
excavated. It was while his troops
were marching through this defile that
the principal fighting took place.
Having gained the farther end of the
defile, where he joined Raines, Smith
halted the infantry to guard it, and
ordered a cavalry charge. This was
most gallantly executed by a squadron
of the 8th Hussars, led by Colonel
Hicks and Captain Heneage. The
rebels, horse and foot, gave way before
them. The hussars captured two guns,
and continuing the pursuit through
Sindia's cantonment, had for a
moment the rebel camp in their pos-
sessron.
“ Amongst the fugitives in the rebel
ranks was the resolute woman who,
alike in counsel and on the field, was
the soul of the conspirators. Clad in
the attire of a man and mounted on
horseback, the Rani of Jhansi might
have been seen animating her troops
throughout the day. When inch by
inch the British troops pressed through
the pass, and when reaching its summit
Smith ordered the hussars to charge,
the Rani of Jhansi boldly fronted the
British horsemen. When her comrades
failed her, her horse, in spite of her
efforts, carried her along with the
others. With them she might have
escaped, but that her horse, crossing
the canal near the cantonment,
stumbled and fell. A hussar, close


96 ROUTE 5A.
India.
AGRA TO MANIKPUR
upon her track, ignorant of her sex
and her rank, cut her down. She fell
to rise no more. That night, her
devoted followers, determined that the
English should not boast that they
had captured her even dead, burned
her body."
Following up the operations above
described late into the night of the
19th June, Sir Hugh regained the
whole place—Morar, the city, the
Lashkar—everything but the Fort,
which was held by a few fanatics, who
had fired on our advancin troops
whenever they could throug out the
day, and recommenced the following
morning.
“On the morning of the 20th,
Lieutenant Rose, 25th Bombay Native
Infantry, was in command with a de-
tachment of his regiment at the kot-
wali, or police-station, not far from the
main gateway 0f the rock fort. As the
guns from its ramparts continued to
fire, Rose proposed to a brother officer,
Lieutenant Waller, who commanded a
small party of the same regiment near
him, that they should attempt to
capture the fortress with their joint
parties, urging that if the risk was
great, the honour would be still greater.
Waller cheerfully assented, and the
two officers set off with their men and
a blacksmith, whom, not unwilling,
they had engaged for the service.
They crept up to the first gateway
unseen. Then the blacksmith, a
powerful man, forced it open; and so
with the other five gates that opposed
their rogress. By the time the sixth
gate ad been forced the alarm was
given, and when the assailants reached
the archway beyond the last gate, they
were met by t e fire of a gun which
had been brought to bear on them.
Dashing onwards, unscathed by the
fire, they were speedily engaged in a
hand-to-hand contest with the garrison.
The fi ht was desperate, and many
men fe l on both sides. The gallantry
of Rose and Waller and their men
carried all before them. Rose especially
distinguished himself. Just in the
hour of victory, however, as he was
inciting his men to make the final
charge, which proved successful, a

musket was fired at him from behind
the wall. The man who had fired the
shot, a mutineer from Baraili, then
rushed out and cut him down. Waller
came up, and despatched the rebel ;
too late, however, to save his friend.
But the rock fortress was gained,” and
continued in British hands till 1886.
The New City or Lashkar,—When
Daulat Rao Sindia obtained possession
of Gwalior in 1794-1805, he pitched
his camp on the open plain to the S.
of the ort. As the camp remained,
the tents soon disappeared, and a new
city rapidly sprung up, which still
retains the name of Lashkar, or the
camp, to distinguish it from the old
city of Gwalior. The Sarafa, or mer-
ohants’ quarter, is one of the finest
streets in India. In the Phal Bagh is the
Modem Palace of Maharajah Sindia
(not shown to visitors). In the centre
of Lashkar is the Barah, or Old Palace,
and near it are the houses of the chief
Sardars, or nobles, of the state.
The new buildings worthy of a visit
are the Duferin Semi, the Victoria
College, and the Tayagi Rao Memorial
Hospital. The modern Temple was
erected by Sindia's mother, and is
mentioned by F ergusson.
Since the occupation of the Lashkar,
the Old City has been gradually decay-
ing, and is now only one-third as large
as the New City. But the two together
still form one of the populous places in
India.
The Old City of Gwalior is a crowded
mass of small flat-roofed stone houses.
Flanking the city to the N. stands a
curious old Pathan archway, the re-
mains of a tomb. Outside the gates is
the Jumma. Musjid, with its gilt pin-
nacled domes and lofty minarets. Sir
W. Sleeman says (Rambles, i. 347) :
“It is a very beautiful mosque, with
one end built by Muhammad Khan, in
1665 A.D., of the white sandstone of
the rock above it. It looks as fresh as
if it had not been finished a month."
It has the usual two miners, and over
the arches and alcoves are carved pas-
sages from the Koran in beautiful Kufik
characters.
Beyond the stream, and just on the
outskirts of the city, is the noble tomb


ROUTE 5A.
97
GWALIOR FORT
of the Muhammad Ghaus, a saint
venerated in the time of Babar and
Akbar. It is of stone, and is one of
the} best specimens of Mohammedan
architecture of the early Mogul period.
It was built in the early part of
Akbar’s reign, and is a square of 100
ft., with hexagonal towers at the four
corners, attached at the anglesinstead of
the sides. The tomb is a hall 43 ft.
sq., with the angles cut ofl‘ by pointed
arches, from which springs a lofty
Pathan dome. The walls are 5% ft.
thick, and are surrounded by a lofty
verandah, with square bays in centre
of each side, enclosed by stone lattices
of the most intricate and elaborate
patterns. These are'protected from
the weather by very bold eaves, sup-
ported on long stone slabs resting on
brackets. The building is of yellowish
gray sandstone. The dome was once
covered with blue glazed tiles. The
whole is choked with whitewash.
Tomb of Tansen, the famous musi-
cian, is a small open building 22 ft.
sq., supported 011 pillars round the
tombstone. It is c ose to the S.W.
corner of the large tomb; hence it is
thought he became a Moslem. The
tamarind tree near the tomb is much
visited by musicians, as the chewing of
the leaves is alleged to impart a won-
derful sweetness to the voice. Lloyd,
in 1820, in his Journey to Kunawa'r, i.
p. 9, says that this is still religiously
believed by all dancing girls. They
stripped the original tree of its leaves
till it died, and the present tree is a
seedling of the original one.
To see Gwalior I-‘ort an order is
necessary: it can be obtained at the
Residency Ofiice, or from the keeper of
the Musafir Khana (the Maharajah’s
bungalow for strangers). The rest-
house keeper will make arran ements
for the ele hant which the Ma arajah
puts at the disposal of visitors, to
meet them at the foot of the steep
ascent to the Fort.
“The great fortress of Gwalior,”
says General Cunningham, “is situated
on a precipitous, fiat-topped, and iso<
lated hill 0 sandstone," which rises 300
ft. above the town at the N. end, but
[India]

only 274 ft. at the upper gate of the
principal entrance. The hill is long and
narrow; its extreme length from N. to
S. is 12 m., while its breadth varies from
600 ft. to 2800 ft. The walls are from
30 to 35 ft. high, and the rock imme-
diately below them is steeply but
irregularly scar ed all round the hill.
The objects of) chief interest are all in
the Fort, with the exception of the tomb
of Muhammad Ghaus, which is assed
on the way there. Notice especia ly the
gateways, the Man, Karan, and Vikram
palaces, the Sea Bahu temples, the Jain
and the Teli-Ka-Mandir temples, and
the gigantic rock-cut figures.
The view from the Fort is varied and
extensive, but, except during the rainy
season, when the hills are green, the ~
general appearance of the country is
brown and arid. To the N., on a
clear day, may be seen the gigantic
temple of Sahamiya, about 30 m.
distant, and still farther in the same
direction the red hills of Dholpur.
To the W. and within gunshot lies the
long flat-topped sandstone hill of
Hanuman, with a basaltic peak at the
N. end, and a white-washed temple on
its slope, whence the hill has its
name. Beyond, far as the eye can
reach, nothing is seen but range after
range of low sandstone hills. The
conical peak of the Raipur hill towers
over the lower ranges in the S., and to
the E. the level plains, dotted with
villages, lengthen till they pass out of
sight. On the plain below lies the Old
City of Gwalior, encircling the N. end
of the fortress, and to the S., upwards
of 1 in. distant, is the New City of
Lashka'r, literally “ camp."
The main entrance to the Fort is on
the N .E. The ascent was formerly by
many flights of broad steps alternating
with pieces of paved level road, but
these have been removed, and there is
now a continuous road. The entrance
on the N.E. is protected by 6 Gates
which, beginning from the N., are—
The ’A lamgim' gate built by Mu’tamad
Khan, Governor of Gwalior, in 1660,
and called after Aurangzib, one of whose
titles was ’Alamgir. It is quite plain,
and the inscri tion is obliterated.
Inside is a smal courtyard, and an
H


98 ROUTE 5A.
I ndia
AGRA TO MANIKPUR
,/
open hall in which the Mohammedan
governors sat to dispense justice, whence
it is called the Gutchcrry.
The Badalgarh or Hindola gate has
its name from the outwork Badalgarh,
which was called from Badal Sing,vthe
uncle of Man Sing. This gate is also
called Hindola, from hindol, “a swing,"
which existed outside. It is a fine
specimen of Hindu architecture. An
inscription on an iron plate records
its restoration by the Governor Saiyad
’Alam in 1648.
Close under the rock to the rt. is
the stately Gujari Palace, built for the
queen of Man Sing. It measures 300
ft. by 230 ft., and is two stories high.
It is built of hewn stone, but is much
ruined.
The Bhairon or Bansur gate has its
name from one of the earliest Kach-
hwaha Rajahs. It is called Bansur, from
banso'r, “an archer,” lit. “a bamboo-
splitter," a man who had the charge
of it. On one of the jambs is an in-
scription dated 1485 A.D., a year before
the accession of Man Sing.
The Ganesh Gate was built by Dun-
\ gareli, who reigned 1424 to 1454. Out-
side is a small outwork called Kabutar
Khana, or “ pigeon house,” in which
is a tank called Nur Sanger, 60 ft. x
39 ft. and 25 ft. deep. Here, too, is a
Hindu temple sacred to the hermit
Gwalipa, from whom the fort had its
name. It is a smallsquare open pavilion,
with a cupola on 4 pillars. There is
also a smal mosque with an inscription
which Cunningham thus translates :—
In the reign of the great Prince 'A'lamgir,
Like the full-shining moon,
The enlightener of the world,
Praise be to God that this happy place
Was by M’utamad Khan completed
As a charitable gift.
It was the idol-temple of the vile Gwali.
He made it a mosque
Like a mansion of Paradise.
The Khan of enlightened heart,
Nay, light itself from head to foot
Displayed the divine light like that of mid-day.
He closed the idol temple.
Then follows the chronogram giving
a date corresponding to 1664 A.D.
Before reaching the Lakshmn Gate
is a temple hewn out of the solid-
rock and called O'hatur-bhuj-mandi'r,
“shrine of the four-armed,” sacred to

Vishnu, inside which, on the left, is a
long inscription, dated Samwat, 933:
876 A.D. It is 12 ft. sq., with aportico
in front 10 ft. by 9 ft. supported by four
pillars. There is a tank here, and
opposite to it the tomb of Taj Nizam,
a noble of the Court of Ibrahim Lodi,
who was killed in assaulting this gate
in 1518 A. D. Between the gates on the
face of the rock are carvings of Mahadeo
and his consort, and about 50 Lingams.
There was a colossal group of the Boar
incarnation, 151} ft. igh, which Cun-
ningham thinks to be one of the oldest
sculptures in Gwalior; it is quite
defaced. A figure of an elephant over
the statue has been cut away to form a
canopy. '
The H athiya Paar, or Elephant Gate,
was built by Man Sing, and forms part
of his palace. Here was the carving of
an elephant, which Babar and Abu-l-
Fazl praised. >
There are three gates on theN.W. side
of the Fort, which have the general
name of Dho'nda Paar, from an early
Kachhwaha Rajah. In an upper outwork
the state prisoners used to be confined.
The S.W. entrance is called Ghar-
gharj Paur, or Gurgling Gate, either
from a well of that name inside, or
from a redoubt. It has five gates in
succession, three of whichwere breached
by General White. This entrance is
also called Popham by the natives, in
memory of its capture in 1780 by
Captain Bruce, brother of the tra-
veller, who was an officer of P0 ham's
force. The escalading party ha grass-
shoes furnished them to prevent them
slipping, and the cost of these shoes
is said to have been deducted from
Popham's pay.
Gwalior has always been thought
one of the most impregnable fortresses
in Upper India, and is superior to
most in an unfailing supply of water
in tanks, cisterns, and wells. There
are several wells in the Urwahi out-
work, and the water in them is always
sweet and wholesome, and is now the
only good drinking water in the fort.
The Suraj Kund, or Sun pool, was
built about 275 to 300 A.D., and is the
oldest in the fort. It is 350 ft. by 180
ft., with a variable depth. It is situ-








////lé
N.W.GROUP OF ;
“WNW



S.W.GROUP
OF STATUES

‘3.
Gargq? Gaw a
_ -|
: E
FORTRESS $3 $231? “$231 $331)
Gate.
. ‘Alamgiri Gate.
. Bhairon Gabe.

3
4
5. Ganesh Gate.
6. Shah J ehsm's Palace.
7. Jahangir} Palzwe.
8. Karan Palace.
9. Vikmm‘s Palace.
10. Lukahmau Gate.
. Man Sing Palace.
12. Hathiya. Pol (Elephant
Gate).



Seals of Feet.





13. Hawa Gabe.
14. J lam. Tnlao Tank).
0| , 50° , ,‘oo,° 290° 15. K110“ Tulaoi'l‘ank).
16. Popham's Escalade.
\- 4
Smnhrdé Geog.l Esta}:





ROUTE 5A.
99
GWALIOR FORT
ated about 500 ft. N.W. of the Sas-
bahu Temple. The Trikonia Tank is
at the extreme N. point of the Fort,
near the Jayanti-thora, where are two
inscriptions, dated 1408 A.D., and a
little earlier. The Johara tank is in
the N. of the Fort, in front of Shah
J ehan's palace, and has its name from
the Johar, or sacrifice of the Rajput
women there when Altamsh took the
place. The Sas-bahutank, “mother-
in-law and daughter-in-law," is near
the Padmanath temple, and is 250 ft.
by 150 ft., and 15 ft. to 18 ft. deep,
but usually dry, as the water runs
through. The Gangola Tank is in the
middle of the Fort, is 200 ft. sq., and
always has deep water on the S. side.
The Dhobi tank, at the S. end of the
Fort, is the largest of all, being 400 ft.
by 200 ft., but it is very shallow.
There are six Palaces, or mandirs, in
the Fort. (1) The Gajari, already
mentioned.
(2) The Man Sing Palace (1486-1516,
repaired in 1881), rt. on entering the
Fort, is on the edge of the E. cliff. It
was also called the Chit Mandir, or
painted palace, as “the walls are
coverered with a profusion of coloured
tiles—bands of mosaique candelabra,
Brahmin ducks, elephants, and pea-
cocks—enamelled blue, green and gold,
giving to this massive wall an unsur—
passed charm and elegance. The tiles
of this great windowless wall possess a
brightness and delicacy of tint un-
blemished by the 10 centuries which
they have weathered. Nowhere do I
remember any architectural design
capable of imparting similar lightness
to a simple massive wall. The secret
of these enamelled tiles has not yet
been discovered ” (Rouselet). It is two
stories high, with two stories of under-
ground apartments, now uninhabitable
from the bats. The E. face is 300 ft.
long and. 100 ft. high, and has five
massiVe round towers, surmounted by
open-domed cupolas, and connected at
to by abattlement of singularly beauti-
fu open lattice-work. The S. face is
160 ft. long and 60 ft. high, with three
round towers connected by a battlement
of lattice-work. The N. and W. sides
are much ruined. The rooms are

arranged round two courts,—small but
with singularly beautiful decoration.
(3) The Palace of Vik'ram is between
the Man and Karan palaces, and con-
nected with them by narrow galleries.
(4) The Kama Palace should be
called the Kirti Mandir. It is long
and narrow, and of two stories. It has
one room 43 ft. by 28 ft., with a roof
supported by two rows of pillars. There
are smaller rooms on either side, and
bath-rooms below, with some fine
plaster-work on the domed ceilings.
Close by to the S. is a hall (1516 A.D.)
36 ft. sq., and the roof is a singular
Hindu dome supported on eight curved
ribs, of which four spring from the side
pillars and four from the angles of the
building. Internally the top of the
dome is a flat square formed by the
intersection of the ribs. The roof is
flat, and once had a pavilion on it.
(5) The Jehangim' and (6) Shah
Jehan Palaces, at the N. end of the Fort,
are of rubble plastered, and are quite
plain and of no architectural interest.
There are 11 Hindu temples which
have been desecrated by the Mohamme-
dans, but are still visited by Hindus at
stated times. Theseare (i.)the Gwalipa,
and (ii.) the Ohatur-bhuj, both already
mentioned. (iii.) The Jayan/ti-tho'ra
was destroyed by Altamsh in 1232
A.D., but its position is shown by the
name given to the most N. point of the
Fort, where there is a deep rock-cut
well and some pillared arcades with
inscriptions dated 1400 to 1419 A.D.
(iv.) The Teli-Ka-Mandir (probable
date, 11th cent., restored 1881-83)
is in the centre of the Fort, overlooking
the Urwahi. It is supposed to have
been built by a Tali, or oilman. It is
60 ft. sq., with a portico projectin 11
ft. on the E. side. The sides 5 ope
upwards to 80 ft., where the building
ends in a horizontal ridge 30 ft. long.
It is the loftiest building in Gwalior.
The doorway is 35 ft. high, and has a
figure of Garuda over the centre. It
was originally a Vishnavite Temple,
but since the 15th cent. it has been
Shivite. The whole of this very mas-
sive building is covered with sculptures.
The gateway in front of it was formed
out of fragments found in the Fort by


100
India.
ROUTE 5A. .1an To MANIKPUR
Major Keith. The sculptured frag-
ments set u round the temple were
also collecte by him.
(v. vi.) The Sas-bahu or Sahasm
bahu, “mother-in-law" and “daughter-
in-law," or 1000-armed temples, are two
temples, a large and smaller one near
the middle of the E. wall. of the Fort.
There is a long inscription inside the
portico, with the date 1093 an.
There are figures of Vishnu over the
main entrances. The great temple, said
to have been built by Rajah Mahipal,
is 100 ft. long by 63 ft. broad. The
entrance is to the N. , and the adytum
to the S. The temple is now 70 ft.
high, but the top has been broken,
and General Cunningham thinks it was
once 100 ft. high. It stands on a richly-
carved plinth. The central hall is 31
ft. sq. It is crowded with four massive
pillars to aid in bearing the enormous
weight of its great pyramidal roof.
The construction of the roof is worthy
of study. The temple was dedicated
in 1092 A1). The small Sas-bahu is
built in the shape of a cross, but consists
of a single story, and is open on all four
sides. The body is 23 ft. sq. supported
on twelve pillars. The plinth is 6 ft.
high, and is decorated like that of the
great temple. The pillars are round,
with octagonal bases and bracketed
capitals. The lower part of the shafts
in both temples are ornamented with
groups of female dancers. It is a fine
specimen of the ornate style of medi-
aeval Hindu architecture.
(vii.) The Jain Temple was dis-
covered by Gen. Cunningham in 1844,
and is a small building placed against
the E. wall of the Fort, midway
between the Elephant Gate and Sas-
bahu temples. It was built about 1108
11.1). The four other temples Surya
Deva, Mala Deva, Dhonda Deva, and
Maha Deva, are of less importance.
“ The Rock Sculptures of Gwalior,”
the same authority writes, “are unique
in Northern India, as well for their
number as for their gigantic size.
They are all excavated in the steep
cliff, immediately below the walls of
the fortress, and are most of them easily
accessible. There are small caves and
niches in almost every place where the

face of the rock is tolerably smooth
and steep, but the more prominent
excavations may be divided into five
principal groups, which I will designate
according to their positions, as 1st, the
Urwahi group; 2d, the south-western
group; 3d, the north-western group;
4th, the north-eastern group; 5th, the
south-eastern grou . Of these the
first and the last, w ich are by far the
most considerable, both in number and
size, are the only sculptures that have
attracted travellers. Most of them
were mutilated, by order of the Emperor
Babar 1527 A.D., only 60 years after
they were made. Babar himself records
the fact in his Memoirs: ‘ They have
hewn the solid rock of this Adwa, and
sculptured out of it idols of larger and
smaller size. On the south part of it
is a large idol, which may be about 40
ft. in height. These figures are perfectly
naked, without even a. rag to cover the
parts of generation. Adwa is far from
being a mean place, on the contrary it
is extremely pleasant. The greatest
fault consists in the idol figures all
about it. I directed these idon to be dea-
troycd.’ The statues, however, were not
destroyed, but only mutilated, and the
broken heads have since been repaired
by the J ains with coloured stucco.
“The Urwahi group is situated in the
cliff of the S. side of the Urwahi valley,
and consists of 22 principal figures, all
of which are naked. The figures are
accompanied by six inscriptions, dated
Samwat1497, 1510 = 1440A.D. and 1453,
during the sway of the Tumara Rajahs.
The chief statues are, No. 17, a colossal
figure of Adinath, the first Jain pontifi‘,
who is known by the symbol of a bull
on the pedestal. This has a long in-
scription dated 1440 A.D. in the reign
of Dungar Sing, which has been trans-
lated by Rajendralala Mitra (see Bang.
As. Soc. Jour. 1862, p. 423). The
largest figure of this group, and of all
the Gwalior scul tures, is the colossus
No. 20, which abar says is 40 ft.
high. Its actual height, however, is
57 ft., or 61; times the length of the
foot, which is just 9 ft. In front of the
statue is a small figure with a squat-
ting figure on each of its four faces.
The extreme W. figure of this group,


ROUTE 5A.
101
ROCK SCULPTURES
No. 22, is a seated colossus upwards
of 30 ft. high, of Nemnath, 22d Jain
pontiff, known by a shell on the pedes-
tal. Besides the 22 figures there are a
few isolated excavations to the right
and left, now inaccessible from the
falling of the rock-cut steps.
“The south-western group consists of
five principal figures, situated in the
cliff immediately below the one-pillar
tank, and just outside the Urwahi wall.
No. 2 is a sleeping female 8 ft. long,
lying on her side, with her head to the
S. and face to the W. Both thighs are
straight, but the left leg is bent back
underneath the right leg. The figure
is highly polished. No. 3 is a seated
group of a male and female with a
child, who are Siddhartha and Trisala,
the reputed father and mother of the
infant Mahavira, the last of the 24 Jain
pontii'l's. The sleeping female also is
probably intended for Trisala, to whose
womb, when she was asleep, the foetus
of Mahavira is said to have been trans-
ferred from its true Brahman mother.
“The north-western group is in the

W. clifi‘ of the Fort, immediately N. of
the Dhonda gate. The figures are un-
important, but one of them, Adinath,
has an inscription dated Saniwat 1527
= 1470 AJ).
“ The north-eastern group is in the
cliff under the Mohammedan palaces,
and above the middle gateways of the
E. entrance. The sculptures are small,
and unaccompanied by inscriptions, and
are, therefore, unimportant. One or
two of the caves are large, but now very
difficult of access.
“ The south-eastern group is in the
long, straight cliil" of the E. face, just
under the Gangola tank. This is by far
the largest and most important group,
as there are 18 colossal statues from 20
to 30 ft. high, and as many more from 8
ft. to 15 ft, which occupy the whole face
of the cliff for upwards of 1: m. A few
caves are blocked up, and occupied by
surly mendicant Byragis, who refuse all
admittance, but there is no reason to sup-
pose they difl'er from the other caves.”
The details are here as tabulated by
General Cunningham.





Caves. SCULPTURES. Dares.
No. £5311; Names. Position. Height. Symbol. Samwat. A.D.
Feet. Feet.
1 23 x 21 x 27 — -— 30 — — —
2 10 x 10 x 10 -— — — — —
8 15 x 12 x 17 Adinath Standing 7 Bull 1530 1478
4 others — — — 1530 1473
4 15 X14 X 16 Adinath —— 14 Wheel 1525 1468
Nemnath —— — Shell 1525 1468
5 —— Adinath —- -— Bull 1525 1468
6 26 x 12 x 16 Supadma Sitting 15 Lotus — —
7 15 X 10 X 20 -——— Standing 20 —- — —-
8 21 x 10 x 20 Adinath Sitting 6 — — -
9 16 X 7 X 28 Male figure Standing 21 — — —
10 10 X 7 x 15 Female Lying — —- —— —
Chandra Prabha Standing 12 —- —- —
2 others -— l2 — — ——
11 12 x 8 x 25 Chandra Prabha Sitting 21 Crescent 1526 1469
12 31 x 10 x 25 Sambhunath — 21 Horse — —
13 40 x 10 X 25 Nemnath Standing 21 Shell 1527 1470
Sambh unath Sitting — — — —
Mahav'ira Standing —- Horse 1525 1468
14 26 X 16 X 32 Adinath Sitting 29 Lion 1525 1468
15 26 x 16 x 83 Adinath Sitting 28 Bull — —
16 24 X 22 X 34 — ——-— 30 — — —
17 80 X 8x 30 Kantanath Standing 26 —— — —
Shantanath — 26 Goat 1525 1468
Adinath — 26 Antelope -- -—
And 4 others — 26 Wheel — —
18 15X10><30 — Standing 26 — — —
19 16 X 10 X 80 — -—— 26 —- — —
20 12 x 8 X 20 Adinath -—-— 8 Wheel — —
21 27 X 35 x 15 -— — -— -— — —


102 ROUTE 5a.
India
AGRA TO MANIKPUR
The first European who describes
these statues was Father Montserrat,
who visited Gwalior on his way from
Surat to Delhi, in the reign of Akbar
(see As. Researches, ix. p. 213).
The Prisons are in a small outwork
on the W. side of the fort, above the
Dhonda gate. They are called the Nau-
cholci, nine cells, and are well lighted
and well ventilated; but must have
been insufferany close in the hot
season. Here Akbar confined his rc-
bellious cousins, and Aurangzib his son
Muhammad, and the sons of Dara and
Murad.

122 Ill. Datia. sta. A town of 28,000
inhabitants, the residence of the Chief
of the Datia state, which contains an
area of 836 sq. m.
The town stands on a rocky height
surrounded by a good stone wall. It
is full of picturesque houses and palaces.
The Rajah’s present residence stands
within the town surrounded by a pretty
garden. To the W. of the town, beyond
the walls. is a very large palace of
great architectural beauty, now un-
tenanted. A group of Jain temples,
4 m. distant, are curious. Datia is a
place the lover of the picturesque should
not pass by.
138 m. Jhansi junc. sta. (see Rte. 5).
From Jhansi 7 m. Orchha. sta. is the
old capital of Orchha state, the oldest
and highest in rank of all the Bundela
Principalities, and the only one of them
that was not held in subjection by the
Peshwa. It is built on both banks of
the Betwa. There is an imposing
fortress, connected by a wooden bridge
with the rest of the town, containing
the former residence of the Rajah, and a
palace built for the accommodation of
the Emperor J ehangir.
Tehri (Tekamgarh), the present
capital, in the S.W. corner of the state,
is about 40 m. S. from Orchha, with
which town and Baumari it is connected
by road.
13 m. Barwa-Saugarsta., DE. The
town is picturesquely situated at the
foot of a rocky ridge on the shore of the

Barwa-Saugar Lake, an artificial sheet of
water formed by a masonry embank-
ment 2 m. in length, constructed by
Udit Sing, Rajah of Orchha, between
17 05-37, containing two craggy, wooded
islets. Below, a tract of land, extending
over 4 m., is thickly planted with mango
and other trees, often of great age and
enormous size. N.W. of the town rises
a fine old castle also built by Udit Sing,
but now uninhabited. 3 in. W. stand
the remains of an old Chandel temple
built of solid blocks of stone, carved
with the figures of Hindu gods, much
defaced by Mussulmans. The town
consists of three divisions separated by
stretches of cultivated land, and the
houses are prettily embosomed in foli-
age.
40 m. Mau sta.,at: D.B. (pop. 23,500).
Man Ranipur is, next to Jhansi, the
principal commercial town of Jhansi
district. Its buildings are remarkably
gicturesque, in the style peculiar to
undelkund, with deep eaves between
the first and second stories, and hanging
balconies of unusual beauty. Trees line
many of the streets, and handsome
temples ornament the town; the prin-
cipa being that of the J ains with two
solid spires and several cu olas. An
old brick-built Fort wit bastions
adjoins the bazaar and contains the
public offices. The town is of quite
modern commercial importance, having
risen from the position of a small agri-
cultural village since 1785, through the
influx of merchants from Chhatarpur.
Kharwa cloth is manufactured and
exported to all parts of India.
67 m. Jaitpur sta. at: The town was
formerly the ca ital of a native state.
It is picturesque y situated on the banks
of the Bela Tal. Probably founded in
the early part of the 18th century by
Jagatraj, son of the famous Bundela
Rajah, Chatar Sal, who built the large
fort still in existence. The town
resembles a collection of separate vil-
lages, fully 2 m. in length, but very
narrow. Handsome temple ; two forts,
one of which could contain almost
the whole population.
The Bela Tal, a tank or lake dammed


ROUTE 5A.
MAHOBA 1 03
up with solid masonry by the Chandel
rulers of Mahoba in the 9th century
extends for 5 m. in circumference, but
is now very shallow, the embankment
having burst in 1869.
86 m. Mahoba sta. The town,
founded about 800 A.D. by Rajah Chan-
dra Varmma, stands on the side of the
Madan Saugar Lake, constructed by the
Chandel Rajahs, and consists of three
distinct portions—one N. of the central
hill known as the Old Fort; one on
the top of the hill known as the Inner
Fort ; and one to the S. known as Dariba.
Architectural antiquities of the Chandel
period abound throughout the neigh-
bourhood. The Ram Kund marks the
place where Chandra Varmma, founder
of the dynasty, died; and the tank
is believed to be a reservoir into which
the united waters of all holy streams
pour themselves. The Fort, now almost
entirely in ruins, commands a beautiful
view over the hills and lakes. The
temple of Munia Devi, artially reno-
vated, has in front of its entrance a
stone pillar inscribed to Madana Varm-
ma. Of the lakes, confined by magni-
ficent masonry dams, two have greatly
silted up; but the Kirat and Madan
Saugars, works of the 11th and 12th
centuries, still remain deep and clear
sheets of water. The shores of the
lakes and the islands in their midst
are thickly covered with ruined temples,
monstrous figures carved out of the
solid rock, pillars, broken sculpture,
and other early remains, while on the
hills above stand the summer-houses
of the early Rajahs, and shrines over-
hang the edge. Relics of Jain temples
and Buddhist inscriptions also occur.
The existing monuments of Moham-
medan date include the tomb of J alhan
Khan, constructed from the fragments
of a Shivite temple, and a mosque also
built of Chandel materials.
The modern town contains a tahsil,
police-station, post office, school, dis-
pensary, and D.B.
[34 m. S. of Mahoba is the ancient
decayed town of Khajurahu, formerly
the capital of the old province of
J ahoti. Hiouen Thsang mentions it in

the 7th century ; and General Cunning-
ham attributes to the same date a
single pillared temple called Ganthai,
and a high mound which probably
conceals the ruins of a Buddhist mon-
astery. Upwards of 20 temples still
stand in the town, and the ruins of at
least as many more bear witness to its
former greatness. In one alone General
Cunningham counted over 800 statues
half life-size, and 8 sculptured ele-
phants of like proportions. The inner
shrine of this edifice constituted in it-
self a s lendid temple, and was crowded
with gures. Captain Burt noticed
seven large temples of exquisite carving,
whose mechanical construction adapted
them to last for almost indefinite
periods. Most or all of these noble
buildings and the inscriptions found
in the neighbourhood must be referred
to the Chandel dynasty, who ruled at
Khajurahu apparently from 841 to 1157
A.D. The modern village contains only
about 160 houses]
119 m. Banda sta. is (R.), D.B., is a
municipal town and the administrative
headquarters of Bands. district. It
stands on an undulating plain 1 m.
E. of right bank of the Ken river.
The modern town derived its im-
portance from the residence of the
Nawab of Banda, and from its position
as a cotton mart. After the removal
of the Nawab in 1858 owing to his dis-
loyalty during the Mutiny, the town
began to decline, while the growth of
Rajapur as a rival cotton emporium
has largely deprived Bands of this
trade. The town is straggling and ill
built, but with clean wide streets.
It contains 66 mosques, 161 Hindu
temples, and 5 Jain temples, some of
which possess fair architectural merit.
Cantonments 1 m. from the town on
the Fatehpur Road.
162 m. Karwi sta. (pop. 4100). In
1805 the town formed a cantonment for
British troops, and in 1829 it became
the principal residence of the Peshwa’s
representative, who livcd in almost
regal state, built several beautiful tem-
ples and wells. Numerous traders from
the Deccan were thus attracted to Kfll‘Wl.


104 ROUTE 6.
I 'nd'ia
BOMBAY TO DELHI
During the Mutiny Narayan Rao, after
the murder at Banda of Mr. Cockerell,
J oint-Magistrate of Karwi, assumed the
government, and retained his independ-
ence for eight months amid the subse-
quent anarchy. The accumulations of
his family constituted the great treasure
afterwards so famous as the “Kirwee
and Bands Prize Money.” It was kept
in a vault of the Bars, 2. large building
forming the palace of Narayan Rao’s
family. Since the Mutiny the pro-
sperity of Karwi has gradually declined.
There is a magnificent temple and tank
with masonry well attached, known as
the Ganesh Bagh, built by Venaik Bee
in 1837. There are five mosques and
as many Hindu temples.
181 m. Manikpur june. sta. of E. I.
Rly. and Jubbulpore Rly. (see Rte. 1.)
ROUTE 6
BOMBAY T0 DELHI THROUGH BARODA,
AHMEDABAD (halt 40 min. ), AJMERE
(30 min.), BANDIKUI (36 min.), AND
J EYPORE.
Rail. 890 m. Mail trains 43% hrs. in
transit. Through fares approximately,
first class 56 rs., second class 28 rs.,
and servants 9 rs. For some railway
rules see Rte. 1, p. 26. The route
is throughout by the B. B. and C. I.
Rly. There is a change of gauge at
Ahmedabad. The stations in Bombay
are C'olotba,1 Church Gate Statflm, and
Grant Road, where ample time is given.
9 m. Mahim sta., where the rly.
crosses a causeway connecting the
island of Bombay with the island of
Salscttc. The country is flat, studded
withvillagesandcocoa-nutgroves. 10m.

Bandra sta., 1., on sea-shore, a favour-
ite residence for persons who have
daily business in Bombay ; it is nearly
surrounded by water, and is cooler than
Bombay.
22 m. Borivli sta. is near the Games
qf Montpezir and the ruins of a Jesuit
monastery of the 16th century. The
Caves of Kanhari are only 5 m. distant,
but are more easily visited from the
Talsi Lake.
22 m. Bhayandar sta., on the S.
edge of the Bassein creek, which divides
Salsette from the mainland. Persons
who have made arrangements to visit
Basseinzk by boat or by steam launch,
embark at this station. The railway
here crosses the river by a very long
bridge. On the right, and for some miles
up the stream, the scenery is most
beautiful—the Kamandrug Hills and
Ghodbandar, with the quiet water be-
tween them, forming a tropical landscape
as charming as can be seen in India.1
33 m. Bassein Road sta., *D.B.
(Wasa'i). Called by the Portuguese
fagaim. The ruins are distant about
In.
The first notice we have of Bassein
is in 1532, when the Portuguese ravaged
the neighbourhood and burned all the
towns between it and Chiin Tara-
pur. In 1534 they took Daman, which
they still hold, and obliged Sultan
Bahadur of Guzerat, then hard pressed by
the Emperor Humayun, to cede Bassein
in perpetuity. “For more than 200
years Bassein remained in the hands of
the Portuguese, and. during this time
it rose to such prosperity that the city
came to be called the Court of the
North, and its nobleswere proverbial for
their wealth and magnificence. With
plentiful supplies of both timber and
stone, Bassein was adorned by many
noble buildings, including a cathedral,
5 convents, 13 churches, and an asylum
for orphans. The dwellings of the
Hida-lgos, or aristocracy, who alone were
allowed to live within the city walls,
1 It is advisable to start from the Colaba
terminus to insure getting places.
1 For excursion to this place consult T.
Cook & Son. Write beforehand to station-
master for a tonga.


ROUTE 6.
SURAT 105
are described (6175) as stately build-
ings ” (Hunter.) On the 17th February
1765 the Marathas invested Basscin,
and the town surrendered on the 16th
of May, after a most desperate resist-
ance, inwhich the commandant, Silveira
de Mineyes, was killed, and 800 of the
garrison killed and wounded, while the
Maratha loss was upwards of 5000. On
the 13th of November 1780 General
Goddard arrived before Bassein, and on
the 28th his first battery opened against
it. He had very powerful artillery, and
one battery of 20 mortars, which shortly
after opened at the distance of 500 yds.,
and did great execution. The place
surrendered on the 11th December, on
which day Colonel Hartley, with a cover-
ing army of 2000 men, defeated the
Maratha relieving army of upwards of
24,000 men, and killed its distinguished
General, Ramchandra Ganesh.
The Fort with the ruins stands on,
the Bassein Creek, a little away from
the sea. The fort is now entered from
the N. There is a road through the
town from the rly. sta.
The Old Town, 5 m. from the sta.,
surrounded by walls and ramparts,
contains the ruins of the Cathedral of
S. Joseph and other churches built by
Roman Catholic missionaries in the
14th and 15th centun'es. Several in-
scriptions remain, the earliest dated
1536. A guide is necessary to point
out the various ruins. Among them
are the church of S. Anthony, the
Jesuits’ church, and the churches and
convents of the Augustinians and Fran-
ciscans.
Fryer, describing the town in 1675,
says: “ Here were stately dwellings
graced with covered balconies and large
windows, two stories high, with panes
of oyster shell, which is the usual glaz-
ing amongst them (the Portuguese) in
India, or else latticed.”
Close to these venerable ruins is a
modern temple of Shiva.
108 m. Daman Road sta.,lk D.B.
Batman (7 in. W.) is a Portuguese
settlement subordinate to Goa. It was
attacked and taken in 1531, and again
in 1535, and finally captured by the
Portuguese in 1559. The town is situ-

ated on the Daman Gunga river, which
has a bad bar. Outside is a roadstead.
The place in the days of small ships
had a very considerable trade. It has
a fort on each bank of the river. In
the main fort, on left bank, are the
ruins of an old monastery and two
churches,—only Christians may reside
within the walls. In it are the houses
of the governor and his staff and the
public ofiices. The smaller fort of St.
Jerome opposite is more modern.
125 m. Balsa! sta. This place is
occasionally used as a rest-camp, and
near it is the village of Tithul on the
sea-coast, where many inhabitants of
Guzerat resort in the hot season. There
are fine sands and a grand rolling sea.
167 m. SURA'I‘ sta.:k (R) The origin
of the name is obscure, but it is held
by Sir Henry Elliot and other authori-
ties to be derived from Saurast'ra, the
ancient name of the peninsula of Katty-
war, with which it was the principal
port of communication. By the Portu-
guese it was called O'ur'rate and Quryatc.
In the 12th cent? Surat became the
first resting-place, on Indian soil, of
the Farsi refugees who were driven
from Persia by their Mohammedan
conquerors. There are now some
70,000 Pal-sis in India, but though
many of them are still to be found here,
the greater number—about 40,000—
are settled in Bombay. Amongst
Indian cities it is not a place of anti-
quity, but it had a large trade at the
end of the 15th cent, and in the 18th
was one of the most populous and
important mercantile cities in India,
the port being much frequented by
British and other European traders. It
is the seat of a collectorate, is situated
on the river Tapti, and is surrounded
on the land side by a wall about 5?; in.
round, with 12 gates. Except the main
street running from the station road to
the castle, the streets in Surat are nar-
row and tortuous, and many of them
still bear marks of the great fire in
1837, which raged for nearly two days,
when 9373 houses were destroyed, and
many persons perished. Again in 1889
a fire broke out which raged for over
a


106 noan 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
12 hrs., and destroyed 1350 shops and
houses. .
The population of Surat as late as
1797 was estimated at 800,000, but as
Bombay rose Surat declined, until in
1841 it had only 80,000 inhabitants.
From 1847 its prosperity gradually in-
creased, and the population now (1891)
numbers 108,000.
The Portuguese found their way to
the place soon after their arrival in
India, and in 1512 sacked the then open
town. On the 19th January 1573 it
surrendered to Akbar after a siege of 1
month and 17 days. Early in the 17th
cent. the English began to visit it, and
in 1612 the Mogul Emperor sent
down a firman, authorising an English
minister to reside at his court, and
opening to English subjects the trade
at Surat. In 1615 Captain Downton,
with four ships, mounting 80 guns,
defeated the Portuguese fleet, consist-
ing of four galleons, three other large
ships, and 60 smaller vessels, mounting
in all 134 guns. This victory estab-
lished the re utation of the English
for war, and t eir superiority over the
Portuguese. The Dutch trade with
Surat commenced in 1616, and for some
years the Dutch Factory competed
successfully with the English at Surat.
The French Factory was not founded
till 1668, when the agents of the French
East India Company, which Colbert had
established in 1664, settled at Surat.
On January the 5th of the same year
the prosperity of Surat received a
severe blow from Shivaji, the founder
of the Maratha Empire, who with
4000 horse surprised the city, and
plundered it for six days. He laid
siege to the English factory, but all his
attempts to take it failed on account
of the gallantry of the few factors who
defended it. Their courageous defence
so pleased Aurangzib, that he sent Sir
G. Oxendon a robe of honour, and
granted the English an exemption from
customs. The walls of Surat up to
this time were of mud, but they were
now ordered to be built of brick. Surat
was again partially pillaged by the
Marathas in 1670, 1702, and 1706.
About this time commenced the disputes
of the rival London and English Com-

panies; and on the 19th of January
1700 Sir Nicholas Waite, Consul for
the King, and President of the New
Company, arrived at Surat. The
struggle of the Companies continued
till 1708, when they were united. A
new era now began to dawn upon the
English at Surat. They were fast ap-
proaching the period when they were
to acquire political influence in the
city, which was then regarded as the
greatest cm orium of W. India.
In 1759 t e Nawab signed a treaty
by which the castle and fleet were
made over to the English with a yearly
stipend of 200,000 rs. This arrange-
ment was confirmed by the Em eror at
Delhi, and the English authority was
firmly established in Surat. In 1842
the last titular Nawab died, and the
flag of Delhi was removed from the
castle.
‘ The Castle, so prominent in the
early annals of the English in W.
India, stands on the bank of the river,
and was built by a Turkish soldier about
1540. It is an uninteresting brick
building with walls about 8 ft. thick,
much modernised. There is a. good
view of the city and river from the
S.W. bastion. Over the E. gateway is
an inscription.
Factories. —The remains of the Eng-
lish Factory are near the way to the
Katargaon Gate, close to the river.
The building is now a private dwelling.
N. of it is the Portuguese Factory, where
some records are still kept. A wooden
cross marks the site of the church.
Close to this are the vacant site of the
French Lodge and the Persian Factory.
Adjoining the castle is the well-kept
Victoria Garden, of 8 acres. There is
a fine view of the town from the Clock
Tower.
The English Uemelery.—The old
tombs are well worth a visit. They
are N. of the city on the Broach Road.
On the right on entering is the fine
mausoleum of Sir George Oxendon, and
niar it the tomb of his brother Christo-
er.
The Dutch Cemetery is also curious
from the great size of the monuments.
The most striking is that of Baron van
Reede, a learned man who made valu-


ROUTE 6.
naoncrr 107
able collections of books and curiosities,
which he sent to Holland.
The chief Mosques are—
1. Khwajah Diwan Sahib’s Mosque,
built about 1530. He is said to have
come to Surat from Bokhara, and to
have lived to the age of 116. 2. The
Nau Saiyad Mosque, “Mosque of the
Nine Saiyads," on the W. bank of the
Gopi Lake. 3. The Saiyad Idrus Mosque,
in Saiyadpura, with a minaret, one of
the most conspicuous objects in Surat ;
it was built in 1639, in honour of the
ancestor of the present Kazi of Surat.
4. The Mirza Sami Mosque, built 1540 by
Khudawand Khan, who built the castle.
The Tombs of the Bohras deserve a
visit. There are two chief Parsi fire-
temples, built in 1823. The Hindu sect
of the Walabhacharis has three temples.
The Swami Narayan temple, with three
white domes, is visible all over the city.
In the two old temples in the Ambaji
ward the shrines are 15 ft. underground,
a relic of Mohammedan persecution.
The Shravaks, or J ains, have 42 temples,
the chief of which are from 150 to 200
years old.
Across the Hope Bridge 3 m. is Ran-
der, built on the site of a very ancient
Hindu city, destroyed by the Moham-
medans in the 12th century. The
Jumma Musjid stands on the site of
the principal Jain temple. In the
facade the bases of the Jain columns
are still visible, and the great idol is
placed head downwards as a doorstep
for the faithful to tread on in entering
the mosque. In another mosque are
the wooden columns and domes belong-
ing to the Jain Temple, which are the
only wooden remains of the kind in
Guzerat.
2 111. after leaving Surat the Tapti
river is crossed by a very long bridge,
and close to Breach the Ne'rlmdda river
is passed on the finest Bridge on the
B.B. and C.I. Railway. From it a good
view is obtained on left of
203 m. Breach ate. at: (R) (Bharoch).
is a place of extreme antiquity, but un-
interesting. Pop. 37,000. Part of the
town is within about i m. from railway

station. The author of the Periplus,
60-210 A.I)., mentions Breach under
the name of Barugaza. It was then
ruled by an independent Rajput chief,
a Jain by religion. It then fell under
the rule of the Chalukyas. The Moslems
began to appear in the 8th century,
and Breach was ruled by them from
1297 to 1772. In 1613 A.D. it was
first visited by Aldworth and Withing-
ton, English merchants, and in 1614 a
house was hired for a factory, permis-
sion to establish which was granted to
Sir Thomas Roe by Jehangir in 1616.
The Dutch set up a factory in 1617.
In 1686 the Marathasplundered Breach.
On the 18th of November 1772 the
British troops stormed the place with
the loss of their commander, General
Wedderburn, whose tomb is at the
N.W. corner of the Fort. On the 29th
of August 1803 Breach was again taken
by storm by the British. The Nerbudda
here is a noble river, 1 m. in breadth.
The city with its suburbs covers a strip
of land 21; m. long and § In. broad,
hence by its inhabitants it is called
Jibh, or “the tongue.” The Fort
stands on a hill more than 100 ft.
above the river, and a massive stone
wall lines the river bank for about 1
m. The streets are narrow, and some
of them steep. The houses are of plain
brick, two stories high, with tiled roofs.
In the Fort are the Collector's Office,
the Civil Courts, the Dutch Factory,
the Jail, the Civil Hospital, the Eng-
lish Church and School, the Municipal
Office, and the Library. The D.B. is
N. of the town.
The Dutch tombs are 2 In. W. of the
Fort, and some 100 yds. off the read 1.
There are two large tombs from 16 to
20 ft. high. To the E. of them is the
tomb of Jan Groenvelt, who died 9th
January 1704. Another tomb has the
date 1666. Opposite the Dutch tombs
are five Towcrs of Silence, one of them
about 15 ft. high. The second Tower
is still in use. Outside the E. gate on
the river bank is the Temple of Bhn'gu
Rishi, said to be older than the founda-
tion of the town.
[10 m. to the E. of Breach is the
celebrated place of Hindu pilgrimage,


108 aourn 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
Shukltirth. It is on the N. or right
bank of the Nerbudda, and here Chan-
akya, King of Ujjain, was purified of
his sins, having arrived at this holy
spot by sailing down the Nerbudda in a
boat with black sails, which turned
white on his reaching Shukltirth. Here
too Chandragupta and his minister,
Chanakya, were cleansed from the guilt
of murdering Chandragupta‘s eight
brothers, and here Chamiind, King of
Anhalwada, in the 11th century, ended
his life as a penitent. There are three
sacred waters—the Kavi, the Hunkar-
cshwar, and the Shukl. At the second
of these is a temple with an image of
Vishnu. The temple is not remark-
able. There is a fair here in November,
at which 25,000 people assemble. Op-
posite Mangleshwar, which is 1 m. up
stream from Shukltirth, in the Ner-
budda, is an island in which is the famous
Bunion Tree called the Kabi'r wad, or
“the fig-tree of Kabir,” from whose
toothpick it is said to have originated.
It has suffered much from floods.
Forbes, who visited Broach 1776-83,
says in his Oriental Memoirs, i. p. 26,
it enclosed a space within its principal
stems 2000 ft. in circumference. It had
350 large and 3000 small trunks, and
had been known to shelter 7000 men.
Bishop Heber, in April 1825, says
though much had been washed away,
enough remained to make it one of the
most noble groves in the world. A
small temple marks the spot where the
original trunk grew.]
229 in. Miyagam junc. sta. This is
a junction of a system of narrow gauge
railways (2’ 6”) owned by the Gaekwar
of Baroda and worked by the B. B.
and 0.1. Rly.
Dabhoi is the only place of interest
on these lines, and it may best be visited
by leaving the main line at Migagam
and rejoiningit at Vishvamitrijmwlion,
2 m. S. of Baroda sta., if the traveller
intends continuing his journey by rail ;
but for seeing the city of Baroda, it may
be better to leave the train at Gaga
Gate station.
[From Miy am 20 m. Dabhoi,‘ a town
belonging to t c state of Baroda. Pop.

15,000. The ancient Hindu architec-
ture of this place is most interesting,
and is little known. It appears to
have escaped notice byJames Fergusson,
whom it would have delighted. The
Fort is said to have been built by the
Rajah of Patan in the 13th century.
The Baroda Gate is 31 ft. high,
with elaborately carved pilasters on
either side. The carvings represent
the incarnations of Vishnu, and
nymphs sporting with heavenly alliga-
tors. Near this the interior colonnades
in the Fort walls are very interesting.
They afi'ord shelter to the garrison.
The roofs give an ample rampart, but
they indicate no fear of the breaching
power of artillery. Pass then through
dusty streets, in which the houses are of
immense solidity, and built of burnt
brick much worn by the weather, to the
S. or Nandod gate, which is 29 ft.
high and 16 ft. 4 in. wide. Trees have
grown in the walls and fractured them
with their thick roots. The Hira Gate
in the E. face of the town is 37 ft.
high, and a marvel of minute carving.
On the spectator’s left as he looks out
from inside the tower, is the temple of
Maha Kali, and on his right beyond the
gate and inside it is a smaller temple,
now quite ruined. These gates are well
worth attention. The Temple of Maha
Kali is a wondrous example of carving,
which when new must have been very
beautiful, but is now much worn by
the weather. The carving of the gate
outside the town is elaborate. About
10 ft. up in the N. face of the centre, a
man and woman are carved 4 ft. high,
standing with a tree between them,
like the old representations of Adam
and Eve. To the left is the tall fi re
of a devil, with a ghastly leer. igh
in the centre face is an elephant, under
which the builder of the gate is said to
have been interred. On the N. side
of the town is what was the palace, in
which the law courts now sit. There is a
fine tank on this side and the Mori gate.
Dabhoi to Vishvamitri junc. 19 m.]
247 m. BARODA =0! (R.) is the capi-
tal of a very important Maratha state,
which with its dependencies covers an
area of 8570 sq. m., with a pop. of


ROUTE 6.
BARODA 109
2,414,200. The Cantonment and Resi-
dency are a long in. N. from the railway
. station and adjoining one another.
They are well laid out with open well-
planted roads.
The city of Baroda is S. E. of the can-
tonment, about 1 m. It is a large busy
place, with a. pop. of 116,400, but con-
tains few sights to detain a. traveller.
The Vishvamitri river flows W. of the
town, and is spanned by four stone
bridges, which exhibit great contrasts
of style. The city proper is intersected
at right angles by two wide thorough-
fares, which meet in a market-place,
where there is a fine pavilion of Moham-
medan architecture. The new Nagar
Bagh Palace, seen from the railway
towering above the town, cost 27 lacs
of rupees. Passes to view it can be ob-
tained from the Khangi Karbari. The
suburban palace Muckapura is 4 m. S.
of the city. There are also many other
handsome modern buildings, amongst
which may be mentioned the Jamnabal
Hospital, the Baroda State Library,
the Central Jail, the Baroda College,
and the Anglo - Vernacular School.
There is a good public garden and
menagerie between the cantonments
and the city on the banks of the Vish-
vamitri river.1
The Naulalchi Well is 50 yds. N. of
the new palace. It is a beautiful
structure of the Baoli class, described
generally below. The water from it is
pumped by steam into pipes leading to
the city, the Moti Bagh, and Nagar
Bagh.2 Twenty yds. beyond the Nagar
Bagh Gate on right in a barrack are
some small gold-plated field-pieces
mounted on silver-plated carriages.
There is an English Church, consecrated
by Bishop cher 1824.
The Baolis, in Guzerat, are large
wells. The following account of these
structures is given by Mr. A. Kinloch
Forbes, in his interesting work on
Guzerat, the Bus Illala : “ Of the wells
of this period there remain in different
parts of the country examples of two
1 The Old Palace and Tosha Khana are well
worth a visit.
2 A much finer specimen of this class of
wells is to be found at Ahmedabad.

kinds. Some are large circular wells
of ordinary construction, but contain~
ing galleried apartments; others are
more properly described as ‘wwvs’ or
‘baolis.’ The was is a large edifice,
of a picturesque and stately, as well as
peculiar, character. Above the level of
the ground a row of four or five open
pavilions, at regular distances from
each other, usually square in the
interior, but sometimes, in the larger
examples, passing into the octagonal
form within, is alone visible ; the roofs
are supported on columns, and are, in
the structures of the Hindu times,
pyramidal in form. The entrance to
the was is by one of the end pavilions ;
thence a flight of steps descends to a
landing immediately under the second
dome, which is now seen to be sup-
ported by two rows of columns, one
over the other. A second flight of
steps continues the descent to a similar
landing under the third pavilion,
where the screen is found to be three
columns in height. In this manner
the descent continues stage by stage,
the number of the columns increasing
at each pavilion, until the level of the
water is at last reached. The last
flight of steps frequently conducts to
an octagonal structure, in this position
necessarily several stories high, and
containing a gallery at each story. It
is covered by the terminating dome,
and is the most adorned portion of the
was. The structure, which is some-
times 80 yds. in length, invariably
terminates in a circular well."
At Baroda the traveller has entered
the part of Guzerat that is most fertile
and park‘likc. It will be a pity to
pass through it in the dark. Nearly
every village has its tank and its temple,
large well-grown trees abound, and the
fields, which are richly cultivated, are
surrounded by high hedges of milk
bush (Euphorbia lirucalli). The small
game shooting is exceptionally good.
[An expedition may be made from
Baroda to the fortified mountain of
Pawangarh, and the ruined city of
Uhampanir, the distance to which by
road is 38 In. These places contain
many ancient buildings of great


1 10 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
interest. Champanir was long the
residence of the Kings of Guzerat.]
270 m. Anand junc. sta. One
branch line from this station extends
N.E. to 49 m. Godra, and will be
eventually prolonged to Ratlam in
Malwa (Rte. 4.) Another runs S.W.
15 m. to Petlad, a commercial town,
pop. 14,500.
[18 m. Dakor sta. There is a large
piece of water at this place, and a
temple with an image much venerated
by the Hindus. As many as 100,000
pilgrims assemble at this place in
October and November.]
[About 20 m. N. of Dakor is the
walled town of Kapadvanj, noted for
its industry in soup, glass, and leather
jars for “ghee.” There is a good D.B.
at this sta. Midway between Dakor and
Kapadvanj are the hot springs of Las-
sendra, the highest temperature being
115. ° The water is slightly sulphurous
and efficacious in skin diseases. There is
a small DB. in the cantonment.]
292 m. Mehmadabad sta.:k Pic-
turesque view of river from rly. sta.
In the morning and evening troops of
monkeys play about quite near the
train. Mehmadabad was founded by
Mahmud Begada in 1479. There is
a tomb 1% m. E. of the town, built in
1484 in honour of Mubarak Saiyad, a
minister of Mahmud. For simplicity
of plan, and solidity and balance of
parts, it stands almost first among
Indian mausoleums. Begada also con-
structed the Bhamaria Baole' well.
It has two-stone arches, on which
it was said the kin ’s swing was hung.
It is 74 ft. long y 24 ft. broad, is
entered by four winding stairs, and has
eight underground chambers.
[Kaira (Kheda) is 7 m. from Mehma-
dabad, by a good road shaded by fine
trees (pop. 12,681). The city consists of
two parts, the town proper and the sub-
urbs. Kaira is said to be as old as 1400
11.0. Copper-plate grants show that the
city was in existence in the 5th cent.
There are now only five European civil
officers resident there. The chief in-
dustry is printing cloth for saris and other
native garments. In the centre of the

town is the Court House, a building
with Greek pillars. Near it is a Jain
Temple, with beautiful dark wood_
carving. Outside the E. gate is the
new Jail. Outside the S. gate are the
Reading-room and Library and a Clock
Tower, built in 1868. It was once a
military cantonment, but proved so
unhealthy for Europeans that the troops
were withdrawn. ~ It is the capital of
a collectorate of well-wooded fertile
country. Wild hog may still be found
in the district as well as the Nilgai
(Portaa: pietus), but they are scarce.
The antelope (Antilope bezoa'rtiea) and
the Indian gazelle (Gazelle. Bennettii)
are very common. Wild-fowl, bustard
(Eupodotis Edwardsii), and fiorican
(Sypheotides auritus), partridges and
quails, sand- grouse, plovers and bitterns,
pea-fowl and green pigeon are found
everywhere. The Mahsir (Barbus
Mosul), little inferior to the salmon, are
found in the Mahi, Vatrak, Meshwa, and
Sabarmati, and afford excellent sport
with the rod and fly. There are few
richer and more pleasing portions of
India than the Kaira collectorate.]
It may well be asserted that the line
of railway from Mehmadabad to Delhi
through northern Guzerat and Rajpu-
tana traverses a country more crowded
with beautiful buildin s and ruins than
any in the known wor d.
310 m. AHMEDABAD,1 junc. sta. :6:
of the broad gauge from Bombay with
the metre gauge rly. to Delhi and the
N., and of the branch into Kattywar
to the W. (see Rte. 7).
This most beautiful city, covering an
area of 2 sq. m. (146,000 inhab.) stands
on the 1. bank of the Sabarmati river,
which skirts its W. wall. The BB.
and 0.1. Rlys. extend all along its E.
side, and the remains of an old wall,
pierced by 12 gateways, surrounds it.
Ahmedabad, once the greatest city
in Western India, is said to have been
from 1573 to 1600 the “ handsomest
town in Hindustan, perhaps in the
1 No tourist should pass the ancient capital
of the Sultans of anerat, the stronghold of
the northern Jains, without pausing at least
long enough (4 hrs.) to visit the Tombs of the
Queens. The chief objects of interest marked
with an asterisk.


ROUTE 6.
AHMEDABAD 1 1 1
world.” In Sir Thomas Roe’s time,
1615, we are told, “it was a goodly
city as large as London." It was
founded in 1411 by Sultan Ahmad I.,
who made Asaval, the old Hindu town
now included in the S. part of the city,
his capital. It passed through two
periods of greatness, two of decay,
and one of revival. From 1411 to 1511
it grew in size and wealth ; from 1512
to 1572 it declined with the decay of
the dynasty of Guzerat; from 1572 to
1709 it renewed its greatness under the
Mogul emperors ; from 1709 to 1809 it
dwindled with their decline ; and from
1818 onwards it has again increased
under British rule.
The Cantonment lies 3} n1. NE. of
the city, and is reached by a good road
lined by an avenue of trees, the haunt of
thousands of parrots. Here there is an
English Church, and there is another,
Christ Church, in the Maria Quarter,
500 yds. S. of the Delhi Gate.
It is hard to account for Ahmedabad
being so little known to modern travel-
lers from Europe. It certainly ranks
next to Delhi and Agra for the beauty
and extent of its architectural remains.
Its architecture is an interesting and
striking exam le of the combination
of Hindu an Mohammedan forms.
“ Nowhere did the inhabitants of Ah-
medabad show how essentially they
were an architectural people as in their
utilitarian works (wells [Baolis] and
inlets to water reservoirs). It was a
necessity of their nature that every ob-
ject should be made ornamental, and
their success was as great in these as
in their mosques or palaces ” (see
Fergusson).
The Jaina feeding-places for birds,
which at the first glance look like
pigeon-houses, to be seen in many of
the streets, are a peculiar feature of
Ahmedabad: they are extremely pic-
turesque, ornamented with carving, and
often gaily painted. Many of the houses
in the street have fronts beautifully
ornamented with wood-carving, which
is a speciality of the place (see below).
A traveller pressed for time, having
only one day at his disposal, might take
the buildings in the city in the follow-
ing order :—
The Jumma Musjid and Tombs of
Ahmad Shah and his wives ; the Rani
Sipri’s Tomb and Mosque ; Daslar
Khan’s Mosque; the Tin Darwazah;
the Bhadr Azum Khan’s Palace; Sidi
Said’s Mosque; Ahmad Shah'sMosque;
Shaikh Hasan’s Mosque ; the Rani (or
Queen’s) Mosque in Mirzapur ; Muhafiz
Khan’s Mosque.
With a second morning to spare, he
should start early and see Sarkhej, across
the river to the S.W., giving himself at
least four hours for the trip. A second
afternoon could be devoted to the Kan-
kria Tank and Shah ’Alam, S. of the city,
and perhaps the modern Jain Temple
of Hati Sing, outside the Delhi gate.
Near the rly. sta. are the handsome
lofty minarets and arched central gate-
way, which are all that remain of a
mosque1 (1) destroyed in the struggle
with the Marathas in 1753.
The J umma. Musjid (3),* or primipal
mosque, stands near the centre of the
city, on the S. side of the main street
(Manik Chauk), a little E. of the Three
Gateways. It was built by Sultan
Ahmad I. (Ahmad Shah) in 1424. Mr.
F ergusson says : “ Though not remark-
able for its size, it is one of the most
beautiful mosques in the East." The
mosque is entered from the N. by a
flight of steps. On the S. is another
porch leading into the street, and on
the E. is the enclosure, in which is the
tomb of the founder. The court is
surrounded by a cloister. To the W.
is the mosque proper. On the threshold
of the main arch, embedded in the
pavement, lies a black slab brought
from Chintaman’s Temple, which, ac-
cording to Mr. Hope, is a Jain idol
turned upside down for the faithful to
tread on ; and touching it on the E. is
a white marble crescent, where the
Imam stands to pray. In the right-
hand corner on enterin is a gallery,
which was probably use for the ladies
of the royal family. The roof, supported
by 260 Jain columns, has 15 cupolas
with galleries round them. The centre
cupola is larger and much higher than
the others. The two minarets lost half
their height in the earthquake of 16th
1 These numbers in brackets refer to the
numbers on the accompanying plan.


1 1 2 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
June 1819. They are now 43 ft. high.1
On a marble slab above the centre of
the three kiblahs or prayer-niches are
these words in Arabic: “ This high and
far-stretching mosque was raised by the
slave who trusts in the mercy of God,
the compassionate, the alone to be wor-
shipped.” The Koran says, “Truly
mosques belong to God, worship no
one else with Him." “The slave who
trusts in God, the Aider, Nasiru‘d
dunya va din Abu’l Fath Ahmad Shah,
son of Muhammad Shah, son of Sultan
Muzafi'ar."
Through the E. gate is the Tomb of
Ahmad Shah (2), (repaired 1587).
This domed building has a portico to
the S. with 18 pillars. The windows
are of perforated stonework. The
central chamber is 36 ft. square. It is
paved with marble of different colours.
The centre cenotaph is that of Ahmad
Shah, the one to the N. is that of his
son, Muhammad Shah, and that on the
S. is that of his grandson, Kutb Shah.
50 yds. to the E. across the street are
the Tombs of the queens of Ahmad
Shah (2).* The houses are so close that
they quite shut out the facade of the
mausoleum, which is raised on a plat-
form. In the faeade are 13 highly
ornamented carved recesses. Inside is
a rectangular court, with a corridor
running round it. In the centre are eight
large cenotaphs and several small ones.
The 'centre tombstone is of white
marble, finely carved, and is the tomb
of Moghlai Bibi. It is of black stone
or marble, inlaid with white. This
building is one of the finest in Ahmeda-
bad, but much out of repair.
Rani Sipri's Mosque and Tomb (4) *
are almost the most beautiful monu-
ments in Ahmedabad. Mr. Hope says:
“Rani Sipri was the wife of a son of
Ahmad Shah, and her mosque and
tomb were completed in 1431, probably
by herself. They are the first of a series
of buildings more delicately ornate than
any that preceded." The mosque has
2 minarets, about 50 ft. high, having
1 In 1781 Mr. Forbes, in his Oriental
Memories, said of them: “ A circular flight of
steps led to a gallery near the top of each.
A little force at the arch of the upper gallery
made both minarets shake, though the roof of
the mosque remained unmoved."

four compartments tapering up to the
top. The roof is supported by a row
of 6 coupled pillars with single ones
behind. The roza, or tomb, is 36 ft. sq.
Dastur Khan’s Mosque (5), built in
1486 by one of Mahmud Begada’s
ministers. Remark the open stone
screen-work that shuts in the cloister
round\ the courtyard. In the gateway
the marks of- shot may be seen. A few
yds. to the E. of Dastur Khan’s Mosque
is Asa Bhil’s Mound, the site of the fort
of the Bhil chief, from whom the town
of Asaval had its name.
A little to the N. E. of the J amalpur
Gate is Haibat Khan’s Mosque (6),
which is interesting as one of the earliest
attempts to combine Mohammedan and
Hindu elements. Haibat Khan was
one of the noblemen of Ahmad Shah’s
court. The mosque is very plain. The
front wall is pierced by three small
pointed arches some distance apart.
The minarets are small and without
ornament, and rise like chimneys from
the roof. The central dome, of Hindu
workmanship and of great beauty, is
barely raised above the others. The
pillars, taken from different temples,
display every variety of rich ornament.
Except for the form of its dome, the
outer porch would suit a Hindu temple.
The Tin Darwazah, or Three Gate-
ways (7), built by Sultan Ahmad I.,
is of stone richly carved. It crosses
the main street a little to the N. of the
Jumma Musjid. The terrace on the
top of the gateway was formerly roofed
over, but was thrown open in 1877.
This gateway led into the outer court
of the Bhadr, known as the Royal
Square, and was surrounded, in 1638,
by two rows of palm trees and tamarinds
(J. A. de Mandelslo’s Voyages, 1662, p.
76). Facing the Bhadr Gate is a muni-
cipal garden. N. of the garden is the
High School, and to the W. the Hema-
bhai Institute, with a good library and
newspapers and periodicals. Near it is
the Mosque of Malik Sha'ban, with an
inscription that says it was built in
the reign of Kutbu~din, by Sh‘aban, son
of ’Imadu’l mulk, in 856 A.H.=1452
A.D.
The Bhadr (8), (pronounced Bhud-
(M) is an ancient enclosure or citadel,


AHMEDABAD



Town Suburbs .15:-
1. Ruined Mosque "80" 19. Hathi Sings Temple 7
the Railway Station 20. Darya Khan's Tomb w
2- Tombs 0f Ahmad Shah 21. AC/zut Bibi's Mosque ) Big-f:
and his wives 22. Miyan Khan Chisti's / I 10'
3. Jumma Musjid Mosque , 1 4L
4. Rani Seprce's Mosque 23. Dada Har/"s Well l/ 4_
5- Dflstur Khan '5 Mosque 24. Mata Bhawani's Well ’1'
6. Haibat Khan '8 Mosque 25. Chintaman's Temple 1 '1’
7. The Triple Gateway 1'" Samspu" The 03510
8. The Bhadr 26. Kankariya Lake 0," eL
. . I 0.
Including I
9. Azam Khan's Palace ,’ Q ,
10.Ahmad Shah '3 If! Mosque °," ' Q "7"
11.The Mani/1 Burj ‘ a;
12. Sidi Said 's Mogqug ' it 0;!
13. Srrah WajiTTqul'n's Tomb ’“ '/f
14. Said A/am 's Mosque 4””?3 I
15. The Ran/"s Mosque in Murzepur _ Q’,/
16. Mosque of the Shaikh Hasan M ~" I,
17. Muhafiz Khan '5 Mosque \ . ’-'-,’;M1-1?~e~»,-\Zq *1
18. Swami Narayan's Temp/e‘i -" ' ,


Burruj ?’ ‘ 21 ‘._ I,
Q __ Achut Bit, "3 Mosque
{DaryF‘i '
gkhan 's
5 Tomb 20,";
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To facap. 112.





ROUTE 6.
AHMEDABAD l 13
built by Ahmad Shah, 1411, and named
after the goddess Bhadra, a propitious
form of Kali. In the E. face is the
Palace, built by 'Azam Khan (9), the
23d Viceroy (1635-42), who was called
Udai, “the white ant," from his love
of building. It is now the jail. Over
the entrance is a Persian chronogram,
giving the date 1636 A.D. The N.
entrance to the Bhadr is very handsome.
The gate is 18 ft. high, under an arch-
way, opening into a regular octagonal
hall of great elegance, containing, in
the upper story, an arched gallery,
and having in front a low wall of
open-cut stone, each gallery surmounted
by a cupola. Underneath this hall is
a fine vaulted chamber, entered by a
flight of steps at each side, with a reser-
voir and fountain in the middle. Close
to the Jail is a temple to Bhadra Kali
Mata. At the N .E. corner is Sidi
Said’s Mosque (12),“ which forms part
of the wall ; it is now the Mumlutdar’s
office. Two of its windows are filled
with delicate stone tracery of tree-
stems and branches beautifully wrought.
Mr. Fergusson, who gives an illustra-
tion of one of the windows, says in his
Hist. ofA'rch. : “It would be difficult
to excel the skill with which the vege-
table forms are conventionalised just
to the extent required for the pur ose.
The equal spacing also of the su ject
by the three ordinary trees and four
palms takes it out of the category of
direct imitation of nature, and renders
it sufficiently structural for its situa-
tion ; but perhaps the greatest skill is
shown in the even manner in which the
pattern is spread over the whole surface.
There are some exquisite specimens of
tracery in precious marbles at Agra and
Delhi, but none quite e ual to this."
In the S.W. corner 0 the Bhadr is
Ahmad Shah’s Mosque (10), built by
him in 1414, 20 years before the J umma
Musjid, being perhaps the oldest here.
It is said to have been used as the king’s
private chapel. Left on advancing to-
wards the mosque, is the Ganj-i-Shahid
or Store of Martyrs, where were buried
the Moslems who were killed in storm-
ing the town. The facade is almost
bare of ornament, with ill-designed
pointed arches. The two minarets are
[India]
evidently unfinished. The mimbar, or
pulpit, is adorned with what looks like
laurel leaves. The architecture shows
the first attempts at building a Moslem
edifice in what had been a Hindu city.
The pillars still hear Hindu figures and
emblems. The N. )oreh,leading into the
latticed ladies' galiery,is Hindu through-
out, and may be part of a temple.
W. of this mosque is the Manik Burj
(11) or Ruby Bastion, built round the
foundation-stone of the city. There is a
small round tomb in the yard near the
collector's office, which is said to be that
of Ibrahim Kuli Khan, a Persian warrior.
Shah Wajihu-din’s Tomb (13), built
by Saiyad Murtaza Khan Bokhari, 11th
Viceroy, 1606-1609, is a very beautiful
monument.
Saiyad 'Alam's Mosque (14), built
about 1420 by Abubakr Husaini. The
inner details are as rich as Hindu art
could make them. S. of this 170
yds. is
The Rani Muajid (Queen’s Mosque)
(15) in Mirzapu'r, a few yds. to the S.
of the D.B., built probably in Sultan
Ahmad I.’s reign. There are two
minarets, unfinished or partly destroyed
by an earthquake, and now only 33 ft.
high. The roof has three domes, and
is supported by 36 plain illars. To
the N.E. of the mosque is the roza
or tomb (restored). Under the dome
are two eenotaphs of white marble ;
the central one is the tomb of Rupa-
vati, a princess of Dar. It is in good
preservation, while that on the W. side
is much injured ; both are ornamented
with the chain and censer, a Hindu de-
vice. Mr. Fergusson has given a plan
of this mosque, and says, “The lower
part of the minaret is of pure Hindu
architecture. We can follow the pro-
gress of the development of this form,
from the first rude attempt in the
Jumma Musjid, through all its stages
to the exquisite patterns of the Queen’s
Mosque at Mirzapur.”
The Mosque of Shaik Hasan Mu-
hammad Chisti in Shahpur (16), is in
the N.W. angle of the city, not far from
the Sabarmati, 1565 A.I). The minarets
are unfinished. “The tracery in the
niches of their bases is perhaps superior
to any other in the city." On the S. or
I


114 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
left side of the central arch is a Persian
uatrain. This chronogram gives the
ate 1566 AJ).
N. of the city is the Mosque of
Muhafiz Khan (17), which is 350 yds.
to the E. of the D.B., and was built in
1465 by Jamalu-din Muhafiz Khan,
governor of the city in 1471 under
Mahmud Begada. It is the best pre-
served of all the mosques; and Hope
says, “its details are exquisite,” and
he considers that the minarets of this
mosque and those of Rani Sipri “sur-
pass those of Cairo in beauty.”
S. of this mosque is the modern
Swami Narayan’s Temp1e(18), finished
in 1850. It has an octagonal dome, sup
ported on 12 pillars, and isafine building.
Close to it is the Panjrapol or Asylum
for Animals. The enclosure is sur-
rounded by sheds, where about 800
animals are lodged. There is also a
room where insects are fed. Close to
the S. of it are nine tombs, each 18 ft.
3 in. long, called the Nau Guz Pirs,
“the Nine Yard Saints." They are
thought to be twice as old as the city,
and are most likely the tombs of a
number of men killed in some battle.
The Mosque, Tomb, and College of
Shuja'at Khan—This mosque has two
slender minarets and is divided by
piers into five bays, and over the kiblah
are written the creed and date=1695.
The walls, up to 6 ft., are lined with
marble. The tomb is of brick, with a
marble floor, much destroyed. Itis called
both the Marble and the Ivo Mosque.
Ahmedabad is celebrate for its
Handicraftsmen —— goldsmiths, jewel-
lers, etc., who carry the chopped form
of jewellery (the finest archaic jewellery
in India) to the highest perfection;
copper and brass-workers, as instanced
particularly in the very graceful and
delicate brass screens and 12an
(spice-boxes); carpenters, who have
long been famous for their superior
carving in shisham, or mongrel black-
wood, of which the finest specimens
are to be found here; stone-masons,
lacquer-workers, carvers in ivory,—
also for the manufacture of “ Bombay
boxes ”; mock ornaments for idols;
leather shields; cotton cloth (4 monster
steam-factories) ; calico-printing, goldv

figured silks, and gold and silver tissues;
kinwbs, or brocades (the noblest ro-
duced in India); gold and silver ace
and thread, and all manner of tinsel
ornaments.
Its industrial importance is shown
by the fact that “the Nagar-Scth, or
city lord, of Ahmedabad is the titular
head of all the Guilds and the highest
personage in the city, and is treated as
its representative by the Government. ” 1
Carpets have also become a speciality
of Ahmedabad, and the manufactories,
as well as the workshops of the other
crafts, are well worth visiting.
ENVIRONS.—For 12 in. round Ahme-
dabad the country is full of interesting
ruins ; but here only the principal can
be mentioned. Just outside the Delhi
Gate, rt. of the road, is the Hathi Sing's
Temple (19)," a modern building, sur-
mounted by 53 pagoda domes. This
and a rest-house and family mansion
close by were finished in 1848, at a cost
of 1,000,000 rs. The dimensions of
this temple are of the first order; its
style the pure Jaina; and it stands a
convincing proof that the native archi-
tecture has not been extinguished by
centuries of repression. In its sculp-
tures may be seen representations of
the 24 holy men, or Tirthankars, and
hundreds of other images, all similar,
but each labelled on the base with the
emblem of some distinct Jaina. The
entrance is from a courtyard surrounded
by a corridor, where woollen slippers
are provided, before ascending a portico
richly carved and supported by pillars.
The Temple consists of an outer and an
inner chamber, both paved with coloured
marbles chiefly from Makran in Rajpu-
tana: in the latter isthe image of Dharm-
nath, who is represented as a beautiful
youth, with a sparkling tiara of imitation
diamonds. Mr. Fergusson says: “Each
part increases in dignity to the sanctu-
ary. The exterior expresses the interior
more completely than even a Gothic
design, and, whether looked at from its
courts or from the outside, it possesses
variety without confusion, and an ap-
propriateness of every part to the pur-
1 For further lparticulars see Sir G. Bird.
WOOd's Industria Arts of India.


ROUTE 6.
115
ENVIRONS OF AHMEDABAD
pose intended.” N.W. of this is the
ruined Tomb of Darya Khan (20),
1453, minister of Mahmud Shah Begada.
The dome is 9 ft. thick, and the largest
in Guzerat. Not far beyond it is the
Ghota. or small Shahi Bagh, of no
architectural interest, now a private
house, where it is said the ladies of the
royal harem lived. Across the railway
line is the Shahi Bagh, a very fine
garden-house, now the residence of the
Commissioner of the Division. A sub-
terranean passage is said to communicate
between the two places. The building
was erected in 1622 by Shah Jehan,
when Viceroy of Ahmedabad, to give
work to the poor during a season of
scarcity. In the 16th century this was
the great resort for the people of the
city. The Shahi Bagh is close to the
railway bridge over the Sabarmati,
which river it overlooks. Half a m.
S. W. of the Shahi Bagh is Miyan Khan
Ghisti's Mosque (22), built in 1465 by
Malik Maksud Vazir; and .5 m. more to
the S.W. is Achut Bibi’s Mosque (21),
built in 1469, by ’Imadu’l mulk, one of
Begada’s ministers, for his wife Bibi
Achut Knki, whose tomb is close by.
There were seven minarets here, all of
which were thrown down in the earth-
quake of 1819. Returning from this
point, the traveller may drive to the
N. E. side of the city, to Asarva, which
is about § In. N.E. of the Daryapur
Gate, where are the Wells of Dada Hari
(23)* and Mata Bhawani. The real
name of Dada is said by the local people
to have been Halim, “ mild,” and they
call him Dada Hari. He is said to have
been the husband of the Dai, or Nurse
of one of the Kings. There-is an ascent
from the road to the platform which
surrounds the well’s mouth. A domed
portico, supported by 12 pillars, gives
entrance to 3 tiers of finely constructed
galleries below ground, which lead to the
octagonal well, and inscriptions in
Sanscrit and Arabic. The well beyond
the octagonal one has pillars round it,
and a. fence wall. Beyond this is a
circular well for irrigation. A very
narrow staircase leads to the level
ground, where by the side of the well
are two stone mandaps. About 50 yds.
to the W. is Dada Haris Mosque, one

of the best decorated buildings at
Ahmedabad, though no marble is em-
ployed. The stone is of a dull reddish-
gray colour. The bases of the two
minarets are richly carved. A portion
of them was thrown down by the earth-
quake of 1819. To the N. is the Rom
of Dada Ham' orHalim. The N. door
is exquisitely carved, but the inside is
quite plain.
Mata. Bhawani (24).—This well is
about 100 yds. N. of Dada Hari’s, but
is much older, and is thought to be of
the time of Karen, when Ahmedabad
was called Karanavati. The descent
to the water from the platform is by
52 steps and pillared galleries as at
Dada Hari. The porticoes are quite
plain, and the well is altogether inferior
to that of Dada Hari.
Most of the houses in the Madhaopum
suburb are warehouses, and it is the
eat business quarter. Saraspur is a
istinct walled town, the largest of the
suburbs. It is E. of the rly. station.
In" this suburb is the Jain Temple of
Chintaman (25), restored in 1868 by
Shantidas, a rich merchant, at a cost
of 900,000 rs. Aurangzib defiled it by
having a cow’s throat cut in it, and,
breaking the images, changed it into a
mosque. The J ains petitioned the Em-
peror Shall J ehan, who ordered his son
to repair and restore the temple. But
in 1666 Thevenot speaks of it as a
mosque (Voyages, v. p. 28).
g m. S.E. of the Rajpur Gate is
the Hauz-i-Kutb, generally called the
Kankariya Lake (26), or Pebble Lake.
This reservoir, one of the largest of
its kind in this part of India, is a
regular polygon of 34 sides, each side
190 ft. long, the whole being more than
1 in. round. The area is 72 acres. It
was constructed by Sultan Kutbu-din
in 1451, and was then surrounded by
many tiers of cut'stone steps, with six
sloping approaches, flanked by cupolas
and an exquisitely carved water-sluice.
In the centre was an island, with a gar-
den called Nagina or the Gem, and a
pavilion called Ghattamandal. In 1872
Mr. Borrodaile, the collector, repaired
the building, and made a road to the
Rajpur Gate. On the E. bank of the
lake are some Dutch and Armenian


1 1 6 ROUTE 6.
I ndia
BOMBAY T0 DELHI
tombs, Saracenic in style, with domes
and pillars. They are a good deal
ruined. The dates range from 1641 to
1689. .
Sarkhej is 6 m. to the S.W. of the
Jamalpore Gate, whence a alumni, or
covered cart on springs, with a good
horse, will take two people comfortably
in an hour. The start must be made
in the early morning. The road crosses
the Sabarmati river, the channel of
which is about § In. broad, but the water
in the dry weather is little more than
2 ft. deep. The river-bed during the
day is one of the most interesting sights
in Ahmedabad. The sand is dotted
with enclosures for the cultivation of
melons, potatoes, and other vegetables,
and the running water is lined with
gaily-dressed women washing their
clothes. Garments of every shape and
of the brightest colours are laid out to
dry. These persons are not profes-
sional washerwomen, but belong to
many classes of society. The remains
of a bridge will be seen near the cross-
ing; both it and the railway bridge
were carried away by the great flood in
1875, but the latter was at once restored.
Near the bridge the city wall is from
40 to 60 ft. high. The road from the
river’s bank is good, with rich fields
on either side, and at 12 m. rt. is the
massive brick
Mausoleum of 'Azam and Mozam,
built probably in 1457. These brothers
are said to have been the architects of
Sarkhej, and to have come from Khor-
asan. The immense structure which
contains their tombs is raised on a
platform. About 300 yds. from the
principal buildings at Sarkhej there
are two brick towers about 30 ft. high,
the bases of which, close to the ground,
have been so dug away that it seems a
miracle they do not fall. After another
200 yds., the road passes under two
arches, leading into the courtyard of
Sarkhej. To the left on entering is
the fine mausoleum of Mahmud Begurra
and his sons, and connected with it
by a beautiful portico another equally
magnificent tomb on the border of the
tank for his queen Raj Bai. To the rt.
is the Tomb of the Saint Sheik Ahmad
Khnttu Ganj Bakhsh, called also Magh-

rabi. Ganj Bakhsh lived at Anhalwada,
and was the spiritual guide of Sultan
Ahmad I., and a renowned Moham-
medan saint; he retired to Sarkhej,
and died there in 1445 at the age of 111.
This magnificent tomb and mosque
were erected to his memory. The tomb
is the largest of its kind in Guzerat,
and has a great central dome and many
smaller ones. Over the central door of
the tomb is a Persian quatrain. It gives
the date 1473 A.D. The shrine inside is
octagonal, surrounded by finely-worked
brass lattice-windows. The pavement
is of coloured marbles, and the dome
inside richly gilt,—from it hangs a
long silver chain which once reached
to the ground. The vast adjoining
Mosque is the perfection of elegant
simplicity : it has 10 cupolas supported
on 18 pillars. The whole of these
buildings, says Mr. Fergussou, “are
constructed without a single arch ; all
the pillars have the usual bracket
capitals of the Hindus, and all the domes
are on the horizontal principle.” S. of
the saint's tomb is that of his disciple
Shaik Salahu-din.
Mahmud Begurra excavated the great
tank of 171} acres, surrounded it by
flights of stone steps, constructed a
richly - decorated supply - sluice, and
built at its S.W. corner a splendid
palace and harem (now in ruins).
With the lake, the Sarkhej buildings
form the most beautiful group in Ahme-
dabad. They belong to the best period
of the style, and have the special in-
terest of being almost purely Hindu,
with only the faintest trace of the
Mohammedan style. Numbers of
people bathe in the tank in spite of the
alligators. A little S. of the lake is
the tomb of Baba Ali Sher, a saint even
more venerated than Ganj Bakhsh. It
is small, ugly, and whitewashed. Close
by are the remains of Mirza Khan
Khanan’s Garden of Victory, laid out
in 1584 after his defeat of Muzafi‘ar
III., the last Ahmedabad king. In
the 17th century Sarkhej was so famous
for indigo, that in 1620 the Dutch
established a factory there.
From Ahmedabad another expedition
may be made to Batwa, which is almost
5 In. due S. of the Rajpur Gate. Here


ROUTE 6.
117
ENVIRONS OF AHMEDABAD
Burhanu - din Kutbu ’l -Alam, the
grandson of a famous saint buried at
Uch on the Sutlej, is interred. He
came to the court of Sultan Ahmad I.,
settled at Batwa, and died there in
1452. A vast mausoleum of fine design
and proportions was erected to his
memory. It resembles the buildings at
Sarkhej, but the aisles are arched and
vaulted, and the dome is raised by a
second tier of arches. The workman-
ship is most elaborate, but the building
is unfortunately much out of re air.
Adjoining it are a mosque and tan .
The tomb of Shah ’Alam, is 2 m.
SE. of the town on the Batwa road.
Before reaching the tomb the road
passes under two plain gateways, and
then through one, with a Nakar Khana
(music gallery) above the archway, and
so into a vast court. To the W. is the
mosque, which has two minarets of
seven stories, handsomely carved and
about 90 ft. high. The tomb of Shah
’Alam, who was the son of the saint
buried at Batwa, is to the E., and is
protected by metal lattices 2 he was the
spiritual guide of Mahmud Begada, and
died in 1495. To the S. is an assembly
hall built by Muzafl‘ar III. (1561-72),
and partly destroyed by the British in
1780 to furnish materials for the siege
of the city. The tomb is said to have
been built by Taj Khan Nariali, one of
Mahmud's courtiers. Early in the 17th
century Asaf Khan, brother of the
Empress Nur J ehan, adorned the dome
with gold and precious stones. The
floor of the tomb is inlaid with black
and white marble, the doors are of open
brass work, and the frame in which
they are set, as well as what shows be-
tween the door-frame and the two stone
pillars to the right and left is of pure
white marble beautifully carved and
pierced. The tomb itself is enclosed
by an inner wall of pierced stone. The
outer wall in the N. is of stone trellis-
work of the most varied design, and
here Shaik Kabir, renowned for his
learning, who died in 1618, is buried.
The mos ue was built by Muhammad
Salih Ba akhshi. The minarets were
begun by Nizabat Khan, and finished
by Saif Khan. They were much
damaged by the earthquake of 1819,

but have been repaired, and are now
in good order. To the S. of the mosque
is a tomb like that of the chief
mausoleum where the family of Shah
’Alam are buried. Outside the wall
to the W. is a reservoir, built by the
wife of Taj Khan Nariali.
Another day may be spent in visiting
the Monastery Qf Pirana, which is at
the village of Giramtha, 9 m. S. of
Ahmedabad. The mausoleums are
those of Imam Shah, Nurshah, Surab-
hai, Bala Muhammad, and Bakir ’Ali.
The legend is that Imam Shah came
from Persia in 1449, and performed
certain miracles, which induced Mu-
hammad II. to give him his daughter
in marriage. On the anniversary of
l‘marn Shah’s death a fair is held,
attended by many Hindus.
There are many other interesting
ruins near Ahmedabad, but these are
the principal, and to see all would take
months.
Leaving Ahmedabad, the railway
crosses the Sabarmati river quite close
to the Shah-i-bagh on a fine bridge,
which carries the rails for both gauges
and a footway on one side. At 314 m.
Sabarmati junc. sta. the narrow gauge
continues N. to Delhi, whilst the broad
gauge turns W. for Wadhwan and
Kattywar (Rte. 7).
The country going N. is flat and well
cultivated. The beautiful and cele-
brated well at Adalaj is in this direc-
tion, but can perhaps be more easily
visited by road.
350 m. Mehsana junc. sta. This
is likely to become one of the most
important railway centres in Guzerat,
as it is the junction for three branch
lines constructed by the Gaekwar of
Baroda. They are: (1) a. line passing
through Visnagar, Vadnagar, and
Kheralu, all important places, total
distance 27 111., general direction N.E. ;
(2) a line to Patan, a historic capital
of Guzerat, distance 24 m. N.W. ; (3) a
line to Viramgam, 40 m. S.W., made to
connect the Rajputana and Kattywar
metre-gauge lines of railway. (For
Viramgam see Rte. 7.)


118 ROUTE 6.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO DELHI
On these branch lines two places
only need be noticed here.
[Vadnagaly *21 m. N.E. This place,
once very important, is stated to have
been conquered by a Rajput prince
from Adjudiah in 145 A.D. It prob-
' ably occupies the site of Anandpura,
known in local history since 226 A.D.
There are some interesting ruins, and
the Temple of Hatlceshvar Mahaaleo is
worth a visit. It is now the religious
capital of the Nagar Brahmans, a most
influential class of men in Guzerat and
Kattywar. It was long the chartered
refuge of the Dhinoj Brahmans, a class
of robbers who were protected and
taxed by successive native governments
down to quite a recent date. '
Patan, 24 m. N.W. of Mehsana.
The city stands on the site of the
ancient Anhilvada, which was taken by
Mahomed of Ghazni on his way to
attack the temple of Somnath in 1024
A.D. The site for generations has been
a quarry whence beautiful carved stones
have been carried to other places. It
is still famous for its libraries of Jain
MSS. There are no less than 108 Jain
temples here.]
374 m. Sidhpur sta. Pop. 13,500.
It stands on the steep northern bank
of the Sarasvati river, and the scene in
the bed of the river during the day in
the dry weather is specially gay. The
place is of extreme antiquity, and con-
tains the ruins of Rudra Mala, one of
the most famous ancient temples in W.
India. It appears to have been shaken
by an earthquake. The stones are
gigantic, and the carving superb, but
very little of it remains. A row of small
temples is converted into a mosque.
The more modern temples are very
numerous.
393 m.Pa1anpur sta. (R.), DE. The
chief town of a native state of that
name, the residence of a Political Agent.
The military station of Decsazk is dis-
tant 18 m. N.W.
425 m. Abu Road sta.:k (R.), D.B.
This is a well-built, attractive-looking

place, Mount Abu looking down on it
from the N. W.
[The excursion to Mount Abu is
one of the most interesting in India,
more especially on account of the Jain
temples. The ascent to it, 15 m., is
by a very good road, fit for light-
wheeled traffic for about 5 or 6 m.,
through delightful scenery, with fine
viewsacross awide valley towards Achil-
ghar. Thence by pony or elephant
(about 4‘} hrs.) to the top of the mount.
Although regarded as part of the Ara-
valli range, Abu is completely detached
from that chain by a valley about 15 m.
wide. The plateau at the top is about
14 m. by 4 m., and varies in height
from 4000 to 5600 ft.1
MOUNT LBU1¢K is the headquarters of
the Rajputana administration, and the
residence of vakils or agents from a
large number of native states. It is also
a sanitarium for European troops and
favourite hot - weather resort in the
summer season.
The height of the civil and military
station is 4000 ft. ; the highest point is
in the northern end.
At the Headquarters are the Resi-
dency, C'hurch, Lawrence Asylum Schools
for children of soldiers, Barracks, Club,
Bazaar of native shops, a considerable
number of private houses on the margin
of the Gem Lake, a most charming piece
of artificial water studded with islands,
and overhung by a curious rock that
looks like a gigantic toad about to
spring into the water. The Railway
Schools for children are outside the
station on the plateau. The surface of
Mount Abu is very much broken up, so
that the carriage roads are very few,
but there are plenty of bridle-roads and
picturesque footpaths.
The Dilwarra. Temples, the great
1 The traveller should arrange to arrive at
Abu Road sta. by a morning train, when
he will have time to arrange for the trip up
to Mount Abu in the evening (having pre-
viously written or telegraphed to secure rooms
there at the small hotel), allowing himself
about 6 hours’ daylight for the journey. The
temples can be seen before noon the following
day, the light luggage started downhill before
breakfast, the visitor following in the after-
noon in time to catch the evening train. It
will be found cold at Abu in winter.


nourr. 6.
119
DILWARRA TEMPLES
attraction of Mt. Abu, are reached bya
good bridle-path (2 m.) A pass to visit
them is necessary.
When Europeans first settled at Abu
the temples were unguarded and open
to all comers, and were frequently mis-
used by the lower classes of all races.
They owe their improved condition to
the exertions of educated European
officers, a fact the custodians sometimes
forget in their conduct towards visitors.
In spite of ill usage and some very bad
restoration, the Dilwarra temples are
very beautiful, and find a fitting frame-
work in their nest of mango trees, with
green fields of barley waving at their
feet, and surrounded on all sides by the
everlasting hills.
“The more modern of the two
temples was built by the same brothers,
Tejpala and Vastupala, who erected the
triple temple at Girnar. This one, we
learn from inscriptions, was erected
between 1197 and 1247, and for minute
delicacy of carving and beauty of detail
stands almost unrivalled, even in the
land of patient and lavish labour. It
is said to have taken 14 years to build,
and to have cost 18,000,000 rs. besides
56 lakhs spent in levelling the hill on
which it stands.
“The other, built by another mer-
chant prince, Vimala Sah, apparently
about 1032 A.D., is simpler an bolder,
though still as elaborate as good taste
would allow in any purely architectural
object. Being one of the oldest as well
as one of the most complete examples
known of a Jain temple, its peculiar-
ities form a convenient introduction to
the style, and serve to illustrate how
complete and perfect it had already
become when we first meet with it in
India.
“The principal object here, as else-
where, is a cell lighted only from the
door, containing a cross-legged seated
figure of the saint to whom the temple
is dedicated, in this instance Pars-
wanatha. The cell terminates upwards
in a sikra, or pyramidal s ire-like roof,
which is common to al Hindu and
Jain temples of the age in the north
of India. To this is attached a portico
composed of 48 free-standing pillars ;
and the whole is enclosed in an oblong

courtyard, about 140 ft., by 90 ft., sur-
rounded by a double celennade of
smaller pillars, forming porticoes to a
range of 55 cells, which enclose it on
all sides, exactly as they do in Buddhist
viharas. In this case, however, each
cell, instead of being the residence of a
monk, is occupied by one of those cross-
legged images which belong alike to
Buddhism and Jainism. Here they
are, according to the Jain practice, all
repetitions of the same image of Pars-
wanatha, and over the door of each
cell, or on its jambs, are sculptured
scenes from his life. The long beams,
stretching from pillar to (pillar, sup-
porting the reef, are relieve by curious
angular struts of white marble, spring-
ing from the middle of the pillar up to
the middle of the beam " (Fergusson).
Achilghar is reached by following
the bridle-path past Dilwarra for about
2 m.,when the village of Uria is reached,
where there is a bungalow. From this
turn r. along a bad track for another
1} m. to the first temple. It is sur-
rounded by a wall, approached by a
flight of steps, and beautifully orna-
mented. S.E. of this are other temples
on higher ground overlooking the
valley. The view is magnificent. These
are the buildings the traveller has seen
in ascending the hill. S. of the first
temple is the A gm' Kund, a tank famous
in Hindu mythology. On the bank is
a marble image of Pramar with his
bow, and near him three large stone
buffaloes. This figure is superior in
style and treatment to most ; and the
same may be said of the statues in
other temples around the Hill of Abu,
specially of the brass figure at Gaumukh
alluded to below. The Achilghar group
is perha s as attractive as the more
renowne temples at Dilwarra, though
not comparable in size or finish; but
the absence of modern work, and an
air of antiquity, solidity, and repose,
make them worthy of all admiration.
Around Mount Abu in the plain and
on the hillside are many temples, some
very beautiful, and all in charming
spots ; but the traveller who wishes to
visit them must have plenty of leisure
and be a good walker, and must always
be accompanied by a guide. It IS


120 ROUTE 6.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO DELHI
very dan erous to leave a beaten path
on the si es of Abu without a erson
who knows the country intimate y.
Gaumukh, a beautifully situated
temple 500 ft. down the S.E. slope, and
3 m. from the church. Observe the
brass figure facing the temple.
Risht' Krishna, at the foot of the hill,
S.E. side, 14 m. from the Civil Station,
is easily visited from Abu Road rail-
way station.
Gautama, on S. side of the hill, W.
of Gaumukh ; 5 m. from station.
Lovely view.
Devangan, in the plain, S.W., 2 m.
S. of Anadra, D.B.]
528 m. Mal-wax Railway junc. sta.
[Excursion to J odhpur.
From this point the J odhpur Railway
branches E. to 44 m. Luni junc. sta.
(from which a line diverges W. to
the salt-works at thhbmlra, distant
60 m., and continues in N. direction).
Many miles before reachin Jodhpur
the fort can be distinguis ed rising
abruptly out of the bare plain.
64 m. JODHPUR (Jodhpore) sta.,:tl
D.B., the capital of the Rajput state
of that name, and of the country known
as Marwar Carea, is the residence of
the Chief and of a Political Agent, to
whom it is necessary to bring an intro-
duction asking for permission to see
the place.
The State of Jodhpur or Mamar
covers an area of 37,000 sq. m. with a
pop. of 1,750,500. The City was built
by Rao Jodha in 1459, and from that
time has been the seat of government.
It stands on the S. extremity of a
rocky range of sandstone hills run-
ning E. and W., and is surrounded by
a strong wall nearly 6 In. in extent,
with seven gates, each bearing the
name of the town to which it leads.
Some of the houses and temples in the
city are of stone richly carved. Amongst
the most im ortant buildings are the
Temple in t e Dhan Mundi (wheat
market) and the Talall Mal, an old
palace now used as the Darbar High
School.
The Fort stands up boldly some 300

ft. above the city and the plain, and
presents a magnificent appearance. The
rock is on every side scarped, but
especially at the N. end, where the
palace is built on the edge of a per-
pendicular clilf at least 120 ft. high.
Strong walls and numerous round and
square towers encircle the crest of the
hill. A modern engineered road winds
up the neighbouring slo es to a massive
gateway. Here is the rst of 7 barriers
thrown across the zigzag ascent, having
immense portals with separate guards
in each. On the wall of the last are
represented the hands of the 15 wives
of one of the rajahs who underwent
salt at his death.
At the top of the rock are the highly-
interesting Old Palaces. There are
courtyards within courtyards, all solidly
built and surrounded by lattice windows
of the most delicate and beautiful
designs. Here in the Treasury are the
Maharajah’s jewels, a wonderful collec-
tion, and well worth seeing. Some of
the pearls, emeralds, and diamonds are
unusually fine. The silver trappings
for ele hants and horses should also be
notice . The view from the palace
windows is most interesting and exten-
sive, and shows the town nestling under
the huge rock.
There was formerly great scarcity of
water, and the women had daily to
walk all the way to Mandor (see below)
to fetch it, but now it has been brought
up to the top of the Fort in pipes. The
principal Tanks are—
The Padam Saugar Tank, in the
N.W. part of the city, excavated out
of the rock, but of small size. In
the same quarter is the Rani Saugar,
at the foot of the W. entrance into the
Fort, with which it is connected by
outworks, and is chiefly reserved for
the garrison and ladies residing in the
Fort. The Gulab Saugar, t0 the E.,
is handsomely built of stone, and is
capacious, with a smaller one adjoining
it. The Bazji ka Talao, S. of the city,
is extensive, but not capable of holding
water long. The modern Sardar Saugar,
on N.E. 1 In W. is a lake called Ak-
herajjt' ka Talao, which is a fine sheet
of water, clear, deep, and extensive, re-
sembling rather a natural lake than an


ROUTE 6.
AJMERE 121
artificial tank. 3 m. N. of the city is
the Bal-Samand, a pretty tank, with
a palace on the embankment and garden
below, used by the Maharajah as a
summer residence. The Canal from
it to the city is a work of much im-
portance.
The chief Sport near J odhpur is pig-
sticking, the pigs being preserved by
the Maharajah.
A great religious fair is held here in
March.
SE. of the city are the Raikabag
Palace, where the chief resides, and
the Jubilee Buildings or court-houses
near it, designed by 001. Jacob. They
are very extensive and deserve notice.
At about 1} m. outside the N.E. angle
of the city is a suburb of 800 houses,
called the Maha Mandir, or “great
temple." The roof of the temple is
supported by 100 pillars, and the in-
terior is richly decorated. This suburb
is defended by a stone wall, with a few
weak bastions. In it are two palaces,
in one of which the spiritual adviser of
the late Maharajah lives. The other
is reserved for the spirit of his prede-
cessor, whose bed is laid out in a state
chamber, with a golden canopy over
the pillow. There is no living occupant
of this palace. The priests, called
Naths, have lost nearly all their former
prestige.
Mention—This was the capital of
Marwar before the foundation of Jodh-
pur. It is situated about 3 m. to the
N. of J odhpur. Here are the Ghattris,
or cenotaphs (much neglected), of the
former rulers, erected on the spots
where the funeral pyres consumed their
remains. Some are fine massive build-
ings,—that dedicated to Ajit Sing, (1.
1724, being the largest and finest.
These “proud monuments,” as Tod calls
them,l are built of “a close-grained
freestone of a dark brown or red tint,
with sufficient hardness to allow the
sculptor to indulge his fancy. The
style of architecture here is mixed,
partaking both of the Shivite and the
Buddhist, but the details are decidedly
Jain, more especially the columns.”
Across a little stream not many yards
from here is a pantheon called the Shrine
1 For full details see 001. Tod's Rajasthan.

of the 300 million gods, containing a
row of gigantic painted figures of divini-
ties and heroes. At the end of the
long building where these figures are
arranged is a curious fresco of a sea-
piece. Near this is the stone palace of
Abhey Sing, who succeeded Ajit Sing in
1724. It is now quite deserted and
given over to the bats. ‘There are some
fine bits of trellis screen-work in the
garden.]
Proceeding from Marwar junc.
towards Ajmere, after leaving, 561 m.,
Haripur sta., D.B., the line engages in
a rocky ascent which continues to close
to 582 m., Beawar sta., D.B., an im-
portant town, and reaches
615 m. AJMERE junc. sta.,zk D.B.
[From this place a. line runs S. to Nus-
scerabad, Neemuch, Indore, lew, and
Khanolwa (see Rte. 4).]
Ajmere is the capital of an isolated
British district in Rajputana (pop.
67,800). The district comprises two
tracts known as Ajmere and Merwara
(pop. 541,900). The Agent of the
Governor-General for Rajputana, whose
headquarters are at Abu, is ex-officio
Chief Commissioner of Ajrnere. The
city is of great antiquity and celebrity,
and is situated in a valley, or rather
basin, at the foot of the rocky and
picturesque Taragarh Hill (3000 ft.
above the sea). It is surrounded by a
stone wall with five gateways, and is
well built, containing many fine houses
of stone with ornamental facades.
Ajmere was founded in 145 A.D. by
Ajeypal, one of the Ohotan kings.
In 1024, Mahmud of Ghazni, on his
way to Somnath in Kattywar, sacked
Ajmere, and Akbar conquered it in
1556.
Thomas Coryat, in the 17th cen-
tury, walked from Jerusalem to Ajmere,
and spent £2, 10s. on the journey.
Sir Thomas Roe, the ambassador of
James I., gives an account of the city
in 1615-16. In about 1720 Ajit Sing
Rathore seized the city, which was
recovered by Muhammad Shah, and
made over by him to Abhey Sing. His
son Ram Sing called in the Marathas,
under Jai Apa Sindia, who, however,


122 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
was murdered, and in 1756 Ajmere was
made over to Bijai Sing, cousin of
Ram Sing. In 1787 the Rathores
recovered Ajmere, but after their defeat
at Patan had to surrender it again to
Sindia. On the 25th of June 1818
Daulat Rao Sindia made it over by
treaty to the English.
The Residency is on the brink of
the beautiful artificial lake called the
Ana Saugar, constructed by Rajah
Ana in the middle of the 11th cent.
It forms the source of the river Laoni,


the flying foxes still hang in the trees,
they are worth observing. They are
sure not to be far off even if they have
changed their quarters, as they love
the vicinity of water. To the N. is
the broad expanse of the lake, and to the
S. under the bund is the Public Garden.
The city, for the most part, is supplied
with water from the lake, which feeds
the reservoir called the Master Kund
(engineer, Col. Dixon). From it filtered
water is laid on to all the streets in
the town. The water of the spring
MODERN
ENCLOSURE.
The Arhni-din-ka-jhompra Mosque at Ajmere.
which finally unites with the Delta of
the Indus. The Emperor Shah J ehan
long afterwards erected a noble range
of marble pavilions on the embank-
ment. They were long the only
public offices in Ajmere, but the chief
one is now used as the oflicial resi-
dence of the Commissioner. The cen-
tral and most beautiful pavilion, in
which the emperor often reposed, has
been restored at great cost. The walk
along the blmd or embankment (which
is public) is very delightful,—quite
the pleasantest sight in Ajmere. If
known as the Digi, on the Nusseerabad
side of Ajmere, is said to possess a high
specific gravity, owing to the stratum
of lead through which it passes.
Akbar's Palace is outside the city
proper, to the E., not far from the
railway station. The entrance gate is
very fine. It was an arsenal, and is
now used as a telisil.
The mosque called the Arhai-din-ka-
jhompra, or “The Hut of two and a.
half Days,” is just outside the city gate
beyond the Dargah. It was built by
Altamsh or Kutbu-din about 1200


ROUTE 6.
AJMERE 1 2 3
from the materials of a Jain temple.
The name is derived from a tradition
that it was built supernaturally in two
and a half days. Modern archaeologists
assert that it was probably erected by
the same architect who built the Kutb
mosque near Delhi. It is uncertain
whether any of the undoubtedly Hindu
pillars of which the mosque is built are
now in situ. Their ornamentation is
very complete, no two beingJ alike. The
mosque proper, supported y 4 rows of
18 of these columns, derives its beauty
from the materials of which it is con-
structed. The screen in front of it is a
work well deserving attention: it is
the glory of the mosque, and consists
of seven arches very similar to those
with which Altamsh adorned the court-
yard of the Kutb. In the centre the
screen rises to a height of 56 ft.
Nothing can exceed the taste with
which the Kufic and Tughra inscrip-
tions are interwoven with the more
purely architectural decorations and
the constructive lines of the design.
The bridle-path to Taragu'h passes
this mosque, and by a steep ascent
reaches the summit in 2 m. The tra-
veller can ride or be carried in a chair,
or jhampan. The trip will occupy
three hours. The view from the top is
the princi al reward for the trouble.
One of tlie principal points of interest
in Ajmere is the Dargah. It is vener-
ated alike by Mohammedans and
Hindus, and derives its extreme sanctity
from being the burial-place of Khwajah
Mueeyinu-din Chisti, who was called
Aftab-i-Mulk-i-Hind. He died in 633
A.H.=1235 an. He was the son of
Khwajah ’Usman, and was called Chisti
from a quarter in the city of Sanjar
in Persia. He had gone into a chapel
to pray, and his relative, the Chisti
from Fateh ur-Sikri, coming to see him
on the sixt day found him dead. Of
this family of saints and courtiers, Farid-
u-din is buried at Pak-patan, in the
Panjab; Nizaln-u-din, Kutbu-din, and
Nasir-u-din at or near Delhi; Shaik
Salim at Fatehpur-Sikri near Agra;
and Bandah Naway at Kalbargah in
the Deccan.
Woollen socks have to be put over
the shoes on entering the Dargah.

Passing through a lofty gateway, a court-
yard is entered in which are two very
e ir 1 ‘ , one twice the size
of the other. These are known as the
great and the little deg. A rich pilgrim
mayofi'er, at the annual fair and pilgrim-
age, to give 0. deg feast. The smallest
sum with which to buy rice, butter,
sugar, almonds, raisins, and spice to
fill the large deg is 1000 rs., and be-
sides this he has to pay about 200 rs.
as presents and offerings at the shrine.
After this gigantic rice pudding has
been cooked by means of a furnace
beneath, it is scrambled for, boiling
hot. Eight earthen pots of the mix-
ture are first set apart for the foreign
pilgrims, and it is the hereditary privi-
lege of the people of Indrakot, and of
the menials of the Dargah, to empty the
caldron of the remainder of its contents.
All the men who take part in this
hereditary privilege are swaddled up to
the eyes in cloths, to avoid the effect
of the scalding fluid. When the caldron
is nearly empty, all the Indrakotis
tumble in together and scrape it clean.
There is no doubt that this custom is
very ancient, though no account of its
origin can be given. It is generally
counted among the miracles of the
saints that no lives have ever been lost
on these occasions, though burns are
frequent. The cooked rice is bought
by all classes, and most castes will eat
it. The number of pilgrims at this
festival is estimated at 20,000.
The Tomb of the saint is a square
building of white marble surmounted
by a dome. It has two entrances, one
of which is spanned by a silver arch.
S. of it in a small enclosure with well-
out marble lattices is the Mazar or
“grave” of Hafiz Jamal, daughter of
the saint, and W. of it, close by her
tomb is that of Ch immi Begam, daughter
of Shah Jehan. Christians may not
approach within 20 yds. of these holy
places. There are some very fine trees
in the enclosure.
W. of the sanctuary is a long, narrow,
and very handsome mosque of white
marble, built by Shah Jehan. It has
11 arches, and is about 100 ft. long;
a Persian inscription runs the whole
length of the roof under the eaves.


124 ROUTE 6.
India,
BOMBAY TO DELHI
There is another mosque within the
enclosure—to the rt. on entering—
built by Akbar. Most of the outer
doors are completely covered with
horse-shoes, and many slips of writing
are plastered on the walls.
Before leaving the visitor will prob-
ably have a necklace of flowers put
round him, which it will be polite not
to take off until he has gone some
distance. A small present, say 1 r.,
should be given in return.
To the S. of the Dargah enclosure is
a deep tank where ablutions are made,
partly out out of the rock and lined by
deep flights of irregular steps.
Ajmere is the headquarters of
about 1700 miles of metre—gauge rly.
worked by the B.B. and GI. Railway
Co. Near the rly. sta. are very exten-
sive workshops employing many thou-
sand Hindu and Mohammedan work-
men, who accomplish their tasks with
a wonderfully small amount of Euro-
pean supervision. Across the railway
line from the city there is an extensive
civil station, inhabited almost exclu-
sively by railway officials ; and beyond
their houses S. is the Mayo College
for the education of young Rajput
princes, opened by Lord Dufi'erin in
1875. It contains about 72 boys be-
tween the ages of 8 and 18 years. A
visitor, even if pressed for time, ought
to drive through the grounds. The
central building is a handsome white
marble pile, slightly marred by some
incongruous details. The subsidiary
buildings have been erected by native
builders for the chiefs as lodging-houses
for their pupils and servants. Per-
haps nowhere else in India is so much
good modern native architecture to be
seen.
The Cantonment of Nusseerabad is
14 m. from Ajmere (see Rte. 4).
[The traveller who has leisure should
visit the sacred Lake of Pushkar, about
7 m. Permanent pop. 4000.
The road skirts the W. shore of the
Ana Saugar. At 3 m. from Ajmere
is the village of Nausar, in a gap in the
hills which divide the Ana Saugar from
the Pushkar Lake. This striking pass
through the hills is 1 m. long. Push-

kar is the most sacred lake in India,
in a narrow valley overshadowed by
fine rocky peaks, and is said to be of
miraculous origin, marking the spot
hallowed by the great sacrifice of
Brahma. Early in the Middle Ages it
became one of the most frequented
objects of pilgrimage, and is still visited
during the great Mela (fair) of Oct. and
Nov. by about 100,000 pilgrims. On
this occasion is also held a great mart
for horses, camels, and bullocks.
Although the ancient temples were
destroyed by Aurangzib, the 5 modern
ones with their ghats on the margin
of the lake are highly picturesque.
That to Brahma is the only one in India
to that god. Visitors may not enter.
Over the gateway is the figure of the
hans, or “goose,” of Brahma. The
D.B. is in a native house on the lake,
from which there is a good view.]
664 m. Phulera junc. sta. 10! From
this point a branch line runs 20 m. to
Kunchaman Road. The line skirts
the E. and N. shores of the Sambhar
Salt Lake, and has been constructed
specially for the salt-traffic.
[Samth Lake is situated on the
border of the Jeypore and Jodhpur
states. The surrounding country is
arid and sterile, being composed of
rocks abounding in salt, and belonging
to the Permian system; and the salt
of the lake comes from the washing of
these rocks. The bottom is tenacious
black mud resting on loose sand. The
lake is 21 m. long from E. to W. after
the rains, and. the average breadth at
that time is 5 m. from N. to S., and
the depth, 1 m. from the shore, is only
2‘} ft. The water dries up from October
to June, and leaves about an inch- of
salt in the enclosures, which are con-
structed only where the black mud is
of considerable thickness.
From the 17th century the salt was
worked by the Jeypore and Jodhpur
Governments conjointly till 1870, when
the British Government became lessees
of both states. The works are on the
E. and N. edges of the lake. The
average yearly out-turn is from 300,000
to 400,000 tons of salt, and the cost


ROUTE 6.
JEYPORE 125
of storage and extraction is id. for every
82% lbs. When the salt is formed
men and women of the Barrar caste
wade through the mud and lift it in
large cakes into baskets]
* 699 m. JEYPORE (or Jaipur) sta., :9:
D. B. Pop. 143,000. Amber is the
ancient capital, J eypore the modern ; it
is the residence of the Maharajah, whose
state covers nearly 15,000 sq. m., with a
pop. of 2,500,000, and the headquarters
of the Resident. It derives its name
from the famous Maharajah Siwai J ey
(or Jai) Sing 11., who founded it in
1728. The town is surrounded on all
sides except the S. by rugged hills,
crowned with forts. That at the end
of the ridge overhanging the city on the
N.W. is the Nahargarh, or “ tiger fort.”
The face of the ridge is scarped and
inaccessible on the S. or city side, while
on the N. it slopes towards Amber. A
masonry, crenellated wall, with seven
gateways, encloses the whole city.
Jeypore is the pleasant healthy
capital of one of the most prosperous
independent states of Rajputana, and is
a very busy and important commercial
town, with large banks and other trad-
ing establishments. It is a centre of
native manufactures, especially that of
many kinds of jewellery and of coloured
printed cloths and muslins. The
enamel-work done here is the best in
India, and the cutting and setting of
garnets and other stones found in the
state is a large branch of industry.
The crowded streets and bazaars are
most lively and picturesque. The city
is remarkable for the width and regu-
larity of its streets. It is laid out in
rectangular blocks, and is divided by
cross streets into six equal portions.
The main streets are 111 ft. wide, and
are paved, and the city is lighted by gas.
The Resident lives near the hotel,
and passes to view the Maharajah’s
Palace and Stables and the old Palace
of Amber may be obtained from him.
Carriages are to be had at the hotel.
The Maharajah’s Palace, with its
beautiful gardens and pleasure grounds
1} m. long, adorned with fountains, fine
trees, and flowering shrubs, occupies
the centre of the city and covers '1, of

its area. The whole is surrounded by
a high embattled wall, built by Jey
Sing, but many of the buildings in-
cluded in it are of a later date. The
Chandra Mahal, which forms the centre
of the great palace, is a lofty and strik-
ing building, seven stories high, looking
over the gardens.
On the ground-floor is the Diwan-i—
Khas, or private hall of audience, which
is built entirely of white marble ; and
is remarkable even in India for its
noble simplicity. On the top story
there is a magnificent view over the
centre city. To the l. are the gaudily-
furnished modern buildings containing
the apartments of the Maharajah and his
courtiers, and the zenana.
East of the Chandra Mahal is the
famous J antra or Observatory, the
largest of the five built by the celebrated
royal astronomer J ey Sing (see Benares,
Muttra, Delhi, and Ujjain). It is not
under cover, but is an open courtyard
full of curious and fantastic instruments
invented and designed by him. They
have been allowed to go much out of
repair, and many of them are now quite
useless, it being impossible even to
guess what purpose they served in the
wonderfully accurate calculations and
observations of their inventor; but
dials, gnomons, quadrants, etc., still
remain of great interest to astronomers.
Adjoining the Observatory are the
royal Stables, built round large court-
yards ; and beyond them is the Hawal
Mahal, or Hall of the Winds, one of
Jey Sing’s chefs d’oeum'e, a fantastic
and elaborate building, decorated with
stucco, and overlooking one of the chief
streets of the town.
In the central court of the palace are
the Raj Printing Office, the Clock
Tower, and the Armoury. To the E.
of the Diwan-i-‘Am is the Parade
Ground, girt with open colonnades,
behind which are the Law Courts.
Horses can mount to the top of the
palace by inclined planes.
Near the chief entrance rises the
Ishwari Minar Swarga Sul, the “ Min-
aret piercing heaven," built by Rajah
Ishwari Sing to overlook the city.
Public Garden, outside the city wall,
is one of the finest gardens in India,


126 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
70 acres in extent, and was laid out
by Dr. de Fabeck at a cost of about
400,000 rs. Attached to it are a fine
menagerie and aviary. These gardens
cost the Maharajah 30,000 rs. a year to
keep up. There is a fine statue of
Lord Mayo.
In the centre of the garden is the
Albert Hall, a sumptuous modern build-
ing, of which the Prince of Wales laid
the first stone in 1876. It contains a
large Darbar Hall and a beautiful
museum,—an Oriental South Kensing-
ton, suitably housed. The collections
of modern works of art and industry,
and also of antiquities, from every part
of India, are very complete and highly
interesting.
The Mayo Hospital.—Beyond the
gardens is the hospital, of rough white
stone, with va clock tower. It can
house 150 patients.
The Church is on the way to the
Railway Station, a little to the W. of
the road.
At the School of Art, a handsome
modern building, are first-rate technical
and industrial classes for teaching and
reviving various branches of native
artistic industry, such as metal and
enamel-work, embroidery, weaving, etc.
The Maharajah’s College.-——In Jey-
pore public instruction has made greater
progress than in the other states of
Rujputana. The College, opened in
1844 with about 40 pupils, had in
1889 and ’90 a daily class attendance of
1000, and compares favourably with
similar institutions of the kind in
British India; it is affiliated to the
Calcutta University.
The chattris, or canotaphs, of the Ma-
harajahs at Gethur are just outside the
N.E. city wall. They are in well-
planted gardens, the trees of which
are full of solemn-looking, gray-headed
monkeys. The first seen on entering
is Jey Sing’s Chattri, the finest of all.
It is a dome of the purest white marble,
supported on 20 beautifully carved
pillars rising from a substantial square
platform, and profusely ornamented
with scenes from Hindu mythology.
S.E. of Jey Sing’s Chattri is that of
his son Madhu Sing, a dome rising from
the octagon on arches reversed. The

only ornaments are carved peacocks.
W. of this chattri is that of Pratap
Sing, his son, completed by the late
ruler Ram Sing. It is of white marble
brought from Alwar.
The water which supplies J eypore is
drawn from a stream on the W. of the
city, running into the Chambal. The
pumping-station and high-level reser-
voirs are nearly opposite the Chandpol
Gate.
[An expedition for the sake of the
view may be made by elephant or on
foot to the Shrine of the Sun God at
Galta, an uninteresting building 350 ft.
above the plain, and built on a jutting
rocky platform, on the summit of a
range of hills, about 11% m. to the E. of
J eypore, of which by far the finest view
is obtained from this point. The way
the sandy desert is encroaching on the
town should be noticed. It has caused
one large suburb to be deserted, and the
houses and gardens are going to ruin.
The sand has even drifted up the ravines
of the hills. This evil ought to be
arrested at any cost by planting]
[The excursion to Amber (5 m.), the
capital of J eypore till 1728, now ruined
and deserted, is most interesting, and
will occupy a whole day. It is neces-
sary to obtain permission to visit Amber
from the Resident of J eypore, and that
official, as a rule, kindly asks the State
to send an elephant to meet the traveller
at Chandrabagh, where the hill becomes
too steep for a. carriage.
On the left of the road a line of
fortified hills are passed; these culmin-
ate in the great Fort 400 feet above the
old palace, connected with it and built
for its defence. The picturesque situa-
tion of Amber at the mouth of a rocky
mountain gorge, in which nestles a
lovely lake, has attracted the admira-
tion of all travellers, including Jacque-
mont and Haber. The name is first
mentioned by Ptolemy. It was founded
by the Minas, and still flourishing in
967. In 1037 it was taken by the
Raj put, who held it till it was deserted.
The old Palace, begun by Man Sing,
1600, ranks architecturally second only
to Gwalior, though instead of standing
on a rocky pedestal it lies low on the


ROUTE 6.
SANGANER 127
slope of the hill, picturesquely rooted
on its rocky base and reflected in the
lake below. The interior arrangements
are excellent. The suites of rooms form
vistas opening upon striking views. It
is a grand pile, and though it lacks the
fresh and vigorous stamp of Hindu
originality which characterises earlier
buildings, the ornamentation and tech-
nical details are free from feebleness.
Entered by a fine staircase from a
great courtyard is the Diwan-i-’Am,
a noble specimen of Rajput art, with
double row of columns supporting a
massive entablature, above which are
latticed galleries. Its magnificence
attracted the envy of Jahangir, and
Mirza Rajah, to save his great work
from destruction, covered it with stucco.
To the right of the Diwan-i-’Am steps
is a small temple where a goat, offered
each morning to Kali, preserves the
tradition of a daily human sacrifice on
the same spot in pre-historic times.
On a higher terrace are the Rajah’s
own apartments, entered by a splendid
gateway covered with mosaics and
sculptures, erected by J ey Sing, over
which is the Suhag Mandir, a small
pavilion with beautiful latticed win-
dows. Through this are further mar-
vels,—a green and cool garden with
fountains, surrounded by palaces,
brilliant with mosaics and marbles.
That on the l. is the Jay Mandir, or
Hall of Victory, adorned by panels of
alabaster, some of which are inlaid, and
others are adorned with flowers in alto-
relievo, “the roof glittering with the
mirrored and spangled work for which
Jeypore is renowned." Here are
bathing-rooms all of pale creamy
marble. Above is the Jas Mandir,
“which literally glows with bright and
tender colours and exquisite inlaid work,
and looks through arches of carved ala-
baster and clusters of slender columns
upon the sleeping lake and the silent
mountains.”
At the N.E. angle is a balcony, whence
there is a fine view over the town of
Amber and the plain beyond to the
hill which overlooks Ramgarh. Some
chattris outside the wall are those of
chieftains who died before Jey Sing II.
In the palace to the right is a chamber,

on the rt. wall of which are views of
Ujjain, and on the 1. views of Benares
and Muttra. That opposite the J ey
Mandir is called the Suklz. Nawas, “Hall
of Pleasure." In the centre of thenarrow
dark room is a painting of a grove,
and an opening for a stream to flow
down into the groove or channel which
runs through the hall. The doors are
of sandal-wood inlaid with ivory.
A steep path leads down to the
Khiri Gate, beyond which, as it leads
to one of the forts, Kantalgarh, no one
is allowed to pass without an order. At
the bottom of this path there is a temple
to Thakurji, or Vishnu. It is white and
beautifully carved, and just outside the.
door is a lovely square pavilion exquis-
itely carved with figures, represent-
ing Krishna sporting with the Gopis.
Amber formerly contained many fine
temples, but most are now in ruins]
[Sanganer is about 7 m. to the
S. of Jeypore, a nice drive past the
Residency and the Moti Dongari, and
garden where the Indian princes who
are visitors to the Maharajah some-
times encamp.
A gateway leads into this town
through two ruined Tirpoliyas, or triple
gateways of three stories, about 66 ft.
high. The second story has an 0 en
stone verandah, supported by our
pillars on either side of the archway.
Ascending the street is a small temple
on the rt. sacred to K alyanji or Krishna,
the door of which is handsomely
carved. Opposite is a temple to Sita-
ram, with a pillar, 6 ft. high, of white
Makrana marble called a Kirthi Kambh.
On the four sides are Brahma with four
faces, Vishnu, cross-legged, holding the
lotus, Shiva holding a cobra in his rt.
hand and a trident in his 1., with Par-
bati beside him and Ganesh.
Higher up, on the 1., are the ruins
of the 0ch Palace, which must once
have been a vast building. N. by E.
from this is the Sanganer Temple with
three courts. Visitors are not allowed
to enter the third. There are several
other old shrines in the place]
755 m. Bandikui jun. sta. (R). Here
are railway workshops, church institute,


128 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY T0 DELHI
and a considerable station for railway
employés. The line for Bhurtpur, Muttm
and Agra branches off E. (see Rte. 9).
792 m. ALWAR(U1wer) sta.,lt:l D.B.,
is the capital of the native state of that
name, and is under the political super-
intendence of the British Government.
It has an area of 3024 sq. m., a pop.
of 683,000, and a revenue of about
£235,000. The dress of the people is
highly picturesque. The men often
carry long matchlocks or staves, and
the saris of the women are embroidered
and of bright colours. The Maharajah
maintains an army of about 8000 men,
under the command of an English
officer, and is himself very English in
his tastes.
The City (90,880 inhab.) is the resi-
dence of the Chief and of a Political
Agent. It is beautifully situated on
risin ground, dominated by the Fort,
whic crowns a conical rock 1200 ft.
high, and is backed by a range of rugged
mountains.
A shady road between fields and
native houses, and passing 1. the small
R. Catholic Church, leads in 1 m. from
the rly. sta. to the chief of five vaulted
gateways which pierce the city wall.
Here the traveller is confronted by a
formidable-looking brass gun, and pass-
ing on finds himself in the picturesque
town ; an irregular whitewashed street
stretches before him, with a view of
the high Fort at the end. About half-
way along it, at the junction of four
ways, the streets are spanned by a four-
sided vaulted archway called the Tir-
poliya, supporting the tomb of Tarang
Sultan, d. 1350, brother of Feroz Shah.
At the end of the street is a temple
of Jagannath, and leavin it (1.) and
passing round and up a s ight incline
the Royal Palace 2 is reached. It is a
group of buildings partly detached and
built in a variety of styles, separated
from the base of the mountains by a
little tank (see below).
1 The Maharajah has a private rly. sta. (see
Index).
‘2 It is necessary for the traveller to signify
his intention of visiting the palace beforehand
to the Secretary of the Maharaiah, and to ask
permission to have the Library, Treasury,
and Armoury opened for him.

In the centre of the wall of the large
court of thepalace is an elegant build-
ing called an Aftabi, and two chattris
or cenotaphs of marble, adorned with
carved lattice-work. The darbar-room
is 70 ft. long, with marble pillars.
The Shish M ahal is handsome, and over-
looks the tank. Besides other state
rooms, the palace contains a valuable
Library, kept in excellent order, and
rich in Oriental manuscripts. The chief
ornament of the collection is a matchless
“ Gulistan," which cost about £10,000
to produce ; it is beautifully illustrated
with miniature paintings, the joint
work of three men. The MS. was
written by a German, the miniatures
were painted by a native of Delhi, and
the scrolls are by a Panjabi; it was
finished in 1848 by order of Maharao
Rajah Bani Sing. Another beautiful
book is the “Dah Pand," written by
Rahim ’ullah, in 1864.
The Tasha Khana, or Jewel House,
is rich in magnificent jewels. There
is an emerald cup of large size, and also
one said to be a ruby, some curious
cameos, and massive silver trappings
for horses and elephants.
The Ar'moury contains a splendid
collection of sabres and other wea ons
finely wrought and finished and stu (led
with jewels ; also 50 handsome swords
with hilts of gold. One or two are from
Persia, but most of them were made at
Alwar, and the imitation of the Ispahan
steel is excellent. The arms of Bani
Sing could only be worn by a man of
great stature. His coat of mail weighs
16} 1b., and the end of his spear 5 lb.,'
and his sword weighs 5 lb. The are
studded with large diamonds. 'lhere
are a helmet and cuirass, Persian, of the
16th century, and large enough for a
man 7 ft. high. Both are perforated
with small bullets. The Maharajah
does not occupy this palace, but lives
in another between 2 and 3 m. to
the S. of Alwar, surrounded by fine
gardens.
The Rajah’s Stables are worth a visit.
There are 200 horses, some of them
very fine.
The Tank with the buildings that
surround it, and the Fort in the back-
ground, forms one of the most pictur-


ROUTE 6.
REWARI 1 29
esque spots in India. To the E. are
the palace and zenana; on the W. are a
number of temples to Vishnu; on the
N. are smaller temples and shrines,
shrouded by trees ; and raised upon the
centre of a platform on the S. is the
cenotaph or mausoleum of Bakhtawar
Sing, a pavilion with white marble
pillars. In the centre of the pavement
are four small feet out out in the marble,
and at one corner a gun, at the next a
dagger, and at the third a sword and
shie d. Visitors are required to take
off their shoes. From this spot the
view is very striking; on the one side
the tank and the Fort towering above
it, and on the other the town and the
wooded plain.
Myriads of rock-pigeons fly about
these sacred precincts, making the
ground blue when they alight, and
numbers of stately peacocks strut un-
molested about the marble pavements.
In the city the house may be visited
in which theElephant Carriage is kept.
It was built by Bani Sing, and is used
by the Rajah atthe Feast of the Dasahra.
It is a car two stories high, and will
carry 50 persons. It is usually drawn
by four elephants.
The Company Bagh (named after
the E. I. C.) is a neat garden between
the rly. sta. and the city.
There is nothing to see in the Fort,
but if the visitor desires to ascend for
the purpose of enjoying the magnificent
view over the valley and adjoining
hills, he should get into a jhampan, or
chair, and be carried up. This ascent
is steep and is paved with slippery and
rugged stones. At about 150 ft. up
there is a fine Ficus indica and a hut,
and here the steepest part of the ascent
begins. It is called the Hathi Mora,
“ Elephant's Turn," because those
animals cannot go beyond this point.
There is another hut farther up at a
place called Ghazi Mard. It takes
about 38 minutes to walk from that
place to the gate of the Fort. The
scarp of the rock is 27 ft. high. In-
side the Fort is a large ruined mansion
of Raghunath, formerly govern or of the
Fort. On the left hand is a cannon 12
ft. long. Thence to the inner Fort is
[India]

100 ds. Here there is a commodious
buil ing, with rooms for about 20
people and a darbar-room.
The Tomb of Path Jang, near the
station on the Bhurtpur road, should
not be passed over. Its dome is a con-
spicuous object, and bears date, in
Nagri, 1547, but the outside is poor in
design compared with the interior,
which is good. The building possesses
a considerable amount of fine plaster-
work in relief, with flat surface patterns
and rectangular mouldings as at the
Alhambra. It is now converted into a
corn-store for the Maharajah’s horses.
It is not known now who Fath J ang was.
1 m. N. of the city is the Jail, and
2 m. to the S. is the Artillery Ground
and Top Khana, “artillery arsenal."
On returning, the visitor may turn down
a ravine, where, at the distance of 1
m., is the chattri of Pratap Sing, and
a spring of water, as also temples to
Shiva, Sitaram, and Karanji, and a
small monument to the Queen of Pratap
Sine, who underwent sati.
Adwar and the neighbourhood are
supplied with water from the artificial
Lake of Siliserh, 9 m. S.W. of the city,
a very charming spot. There are build-
in to shelter in and abundance of fish.
here is a great deal of game of all
kinds in the neighbourhood of Alwar.
838 In. Rewarijunc. sta. * (R. ), D. B.
A railway line from here proceeds N. W.
to Sirsa Ferozepur and Lahore, with a.
branch to Fazilki on the Sutlej river.
Rewari was founded in 1000 AJ). by
Rajah Rawat. There are the ruins of a
still older town E. of the modern walls.
The Rajahs of Rewari were partially
independent, even under the Moguls.
They built the fort of Gokulgarh, near
the town, which is now in ruins, but
was evidently once very strong. They
coined their own money, and their
currency was called Gokul Sikkah. It
is a place of considerable trade, particu-
larly in iron and salt. The Town Hall
is handsome, as are the Jain Temples,
close to the town.
The rly. passes W. of the Kutb Miner
and of the tombs and ruins S. of Delhi,
a line of hills shutting them out from
K


130 ROUTE 6.
I with
BOMBAY TO DELHI
view, and when near the city turns E.
(Here the Delhi, Umballa, and Kalka
Rly. turns N.) The line enters through
the W. wall, meeting in a fine central
station the E. I. Rly. and N. W. Rly.,
which enter the city over the Jumna
river bridge from the E.
890 m. DELHI june. sta.,* D.B.,
(193,600 inhab.)
HISTORY
An outline of the history of Delhi,
the Home of Asia, is necessary to explain
the enormous extent of the wins, and
some notice of its last siege is requisite,
as that event was no doubt the turning
point of the eat rebellion of the soldier
classes whic shook our Empire to its
foundations.
Delhi under the Hindu Kings.
General Cunningham, in the 1st vol.
of the Arch. Survey, exhibits a sketch
map of the ruins round Delhi, which
extend from the S. end of the present
city, now called Shahjahanabad, to the
deserted fort of Rai Pithora, and Tugh-
lakabad on the 8., about 9 1n., and
varying from 3 m. to 6 m. in breadth.
These ruins, covering about 45 sq. m.,
are the remains of seven cities, built
at different times by seven old kings
of Delhi: their actual positions are
still uncertain, but according to Cun-
ningham two of the seven forts are
Lalkot, adjoining Rai Pithora, and built
by Anang Pal in 1052 A.D. ; and Kai
Pithora, built by the king of that name,
about 1180 AJ). The other five prob-
ably stood on the sites of Siri, built by
’Alau-din in 1304 A.D. ; Tughlakabad,
built by Tughlak Shah, in 1321 AD. ;
the citadel of Tughlakabad, built by
the same king at the same date ; ’Adi-
labad, built by Muhammad Tughlak
in 1325 A1). ; and J ahanpanah, enclosed
by the same king. Finch, who came
from Agra to Delhi in 1611 A.D., entered
Delhi from the 8., and says he saw the
ruins of Old Delhi, called “The Seven
Castles, and the Fifty-two Gates " on
the left: he does not mention Indra-
' _ the ancient capital of the

Pandus, on the probable site of which
stands the Fort of Indrapat, now called
Purana Killa, or “Old Fort.” At the
time of the Mohammedan conquest the
Hindu city of Delhi was confined to the
forts of Lalkot and Rai Pithora.
According to the Bhagavat Purana,
Yudhishthira was the first king of In-
draprastha, and after 30 generations
his family was succeeded by another
who held the throne for 500 years.
Then came a dynasty of 15 sovereigns
called Gautamas, followed by 9 May-
uras, of whom the last, Rajah Pala, was
conquered by Vikramaditya of Ujjain
in Malwa (57 13.0.), when the name of
Delhi first appears, as built by Rajah
Dilu or Dilapa. For 792 years Delhi
lay waste. After that it was repeopled
by the Tumars, who were' displaced by
the Chohans or Chauhans, under Bisal
De, the Visala Deva of the two inscrip-
tions on Feroz Shah’s pillar. Cunning-
ham is inclined to identify Delhi and
Indrapat with the Daidela and Inda-
bara of Ptolemy.
Ancient Delhi most probably occu-
pied the site of the fort Rai Pithora,
and the iron pillar is the only thing
that can be assigned with certainty to
the old Hindu city.
The Mohammedan Conquest.
The fighting of the Hindus amongst
themselves rendered the conquest of
Delhi by the Mohammedans in 587
A.H.=1191 A.D. comparatively eas ;
the Hindu Empire passed away, and t e
Mohammedans destroyed the large and
populous city, at the site now occupied
by the ruins of Lalkot, Rai Pithora's
Fort, and Indrapat, so thoroughly,
that not even inscriptions are to be
found. A list of sovereigns who
reigned at Delhi from 1193 an. to
1806 will be found in an Appendix at
the end of the book.
The first grand edifice raised by these
conquerors which excites the astonish-
ment and claims the admiration of
every traveller is the gigantic Kutb
Minar (see below), which was begun
by Kutbu-din Aibak (1206 A.D.) The
Great Mosque was begun and completed
at the same time by him. His next


ROUTE 6.
DELHI 1 3 1
successor but one was Shamsu-din
Altamsh, who was 8180 his son-in-law.
He was succeeded by 'Alau-din, who
was celebrated for having built the
Kasr-i-Hazar Sutuu, or “Palace of a
Thousand Pillars," of which the remains
are seen in the ruined Fort of Shahpur.
The next great monuments are the
grand old Fort of Tughlakabad, with
the tomb of its founder Ghiasu-din
Tughlak Shah, and the castle of his
son Muhammad, called Adilabad, and
the city named Jahanpana. Tughlak
rei ed two years and some months,
an died in 1325. His son Muhammad
’Adil Tughlak Shah fortified the suburbs
between the Hindu fort of Rai Pithora
and the Moslem citadel of Siri. The
walls he erected extended 5 m. This
king’s name before his accession was
J una Khan ; he removed the population
of Delhi to Deogiri 0r Daulatabad in the
Deccan. Feroz Tughlak, who reigned
from 1351 to 1388, devoted the greater
part of his long reign to the construc-
tion of numerous works, the most useful
of which was the canal, which he made
from the western bank of the Jumna
to his new capital of Ferozabad. This
canal was cleared out by ’Ali Mardan
Khan in the reign of Shah J ehan, and
again by the British, and flows through
modern Delhi under the name of the
Western J umna Canal. He also built
the city of Ferozabad, which he began
in 1354, and twojpalaces, the Kushk-i-
Ferozabad and the Kushk-i-Shikar, or
Hunting Palace.
0f the Mogul emperors Shah Jehan
was by far the greatest builder, but
before his time, in 1533 A.D., Humayun
repaired the fort of Indrapat or Purana
Killa, and called it Dinpanah, a name
which did not survive. In 1540 Sher
Shah made Indrapat the citadel of his
new city, under the name of Shergarh,
though Purana Killa is the common
appellation. He also built in 1541 a
mosque, generally known as the Killa
Kohna Musjid, and a lofty octagonal
building, which is still called Sher
Mandal or Sher’s Palace. In 1546
Salim Shah, the son of Sher Shah,
built the fort of Salimgarh. In 1638
Shah J ehan began the citadel or palace

'of Shahjahanabad, the Delhi of to-
day.
In 1739 an event occurred which
inflicted a dreadful blow on the pros-
perity of Delhi. On the 10th of March
the Persian garrison which Nadir Shah
had introduced into the city was
almost entirely put to the sword by
the people. On the 11th the conqueror
gave his troops, who had arrived from
the encampment near the city, orders
for a general massacre. From sunrise
till 12 o’clock Delhi presented a scene
of shocking carnage, the horrors of
which were increased by the flames
that now spread to almost every quarter
of the capital. The Emperor Muham-
mad Shah then inter-ceded for the
people, and Nadir replied, “The
Emperor of India must never ask in
vain," and commanded that the mas-
sacre should cease. A vast multitude
of persons had perished, however, and
when Nadir left Delhi he carried with
him immense treasures, estimated at
from 30 to 70 millions sterling, and
including the famous Peacock Throne
and the Koh-i-Nur.
Modem Delhi—In 1789 Mahadaji
Sindia captured Delhi, and the Mara-
thas retained it till, in September 1803,
General Lake defeated Louis Bourquin,
commanding Sindia's army, and gained
possession of Delhi and of the family
and person of Shah 'Alam. In October
1804 Delhi was besieged by Jaswant
Rao Holkar, but successfully defended
by Ochterlony. From that time to
1857 the old capital of India remained
in the possession of the British, although
the descendants of Aurangzib were
allowed some show of royalty and the
name of king. Abu zafar, who assumed
the title of Bahadur Shah, succeeded
1837 ; he was about 80 years old when
the Mutiny broke out.
The Siege qf Delhi, 1857.1
On the 10th of May 1857 there
were in the large cantonmcnt of
1 A traveller who desires a concise account
of the siege of Delhi, etc., without military
technicalities, cannot do better than refer to
Holme’s Indian Mutiny.


132 ROUTE 6.
India .
BOMBAY TO DELHI
Meerut a battalion of the 60th Rifles,
a regiment of Dragoons armed with
carbines, and a large force of European
Artillery, though only two field-batteries
were fully equipped. There was one
regiment of Native Cavalry—the 3d,
and two regiments of Sepoys—the 11th
and 20th. Eighty-five troopers of the
3d Cavalry had been imprisoned for
refusing to use the new cartridges,
but were released on the day above
mentioned by their comrades. On
that day, Sunday, when the sun went
down, the Sepoys broke into revolt.
The English soldiers in the cantonment
were in amply sufficient numbers to
have crushed the mutiny locally had
they been commanded by a competent
general, but General Hewitt does not
seem to have comprehended the neces-
sity for vigorous action, and the
mutineers, after setting fire to the
houses of the European officers, escaped
to Delhi. “ The sweepings of the jails
and the scum of the bazaars were loose
in the cantonment, plundering and
destroying, whilst women and children
were being cruelly massacred in their
burning houses." On the morning of
the 11th there was still time for the
British Cavahy and the Horse Artillery
to have reached the Delhi cantonment
soon enough to have saved many
precious lives, but the General took
no action. It was not till the 14th of
May, four days after the Mutiny, that
Lieut. Moller, of the 11th N.I., went
into the Great Bazaar, and singly
arrested the murderer of Mrs. Chambers,
who was forthwith hanged.
In the meanwhile the Native Cavalry
made for Delhi, 40 m. distant. They
first entered the city, cutting down
any Europeans met with, and then
found their way to the Fort, and
induced the 38th N.I. to join them.
The church was subsequently destroyed,
and all Christians met with put to
death. The 54th N.I. under Colonel
Ripley was marched from the canton-
ment, about 2 m. distant, to the
Fort, but at once fraternised with the
38th, and allowed their officers to be
shot down. Major Abbott with the
74th N.I. and two guns arrived next
on the scene, and for the time seemed

to overawe the mutineers. Shortly
after, the magazine, beingmo longer
tenable, was blown up, and. general
confusion followed. No assistance
arriving from the out-stations, those
who had taken refuge in the Fort
attempted to escape. Many were shot
down while doing so, and Delhi, with
its well-fortified palace and strong city
wall, was left in the hands of the
mutineers.
Instant measures were taken for the
concentration of European troops and
loyal native regiments upon Delhi.
Sir H. Barnard took command of the
troops collected at Kurnal, and on 5th
June reached Alipur, where he halted
till the Meerut Brigade joined him.
On the 7th the latter brigade, afterfight-
ing two engagements with the rebels,
arrived. On the following day the
combined forces marched on Delhi, and
found the rebels well posted and
supported by 30 guns 6 m. north of
Delhi, at the village of Badli-ke-Sarai.
Attacking the mutineers, Barnard
gained a complete victory. The most
important result of this success was to
give the British possession of “the
Ridge,” from which all subsequent oper-
ations against Delhi were made.
“ On the left and centre of the Ridge,
obliquely to the front of attack, the
tents of the English were pitched a
little to the rear of their old houses,
and effectually concealed from the be-
sieged. The position on the extreme
right invited attack. It was sur-
mounted by an extensive building
known as Hindu Rao’s house. A strong
body of troops was posted here, and in
an old observatory near it. About 800
yds. to the left of Hindu Rae’s house,
and on the Ridge, was an old mosque,
and again 800 yds. to the left was the
Flag-Staff Tower, a double-storied circu-
lar building—a good post for observa-
tion, and strong enough to afford shelter
to troops. At these four points Barnard
established stron picquets supported
by guns. Beyon Hindu Rao's house
was the suburb of Subzee-mundee, which
with its houses and walled gardens
afforded shelter to the enemy, and was
in fact the key of the English position.
Beyond Subzee-mundee, towards the


ROUTE 6. THE
SIEGE or DELHI 133
Kabul Gate, were the villages of Kish-
engunge, Trevelyangunge, Paharipur,
and Teliwara, all strong positions which
covered the enemy when they advanced
to the attack, but were too near the city
walls for us to occupy. A little to the
S. of the Flag-Staff, but farther to the
E., was Metcalfe House, on the banks of
the J umna, with substantial outbuild-
ings, and a mound in their rear, which
seemed to recommend it for occupation.
Between it and the city was an old
summer palace of the Emperor, the
Kudsiya Bagh, with lofty gateways
and spacious courtyards, and in a line
between the latter and Hindu Rao’s
house was Ludlow Castle, the house of
the late Commissioner Simon Frazer.”
To take this great walled city General
Barnard had a force of about 3000
British, one Ghoorka battalion, the
Corps of Guides, the remnant of certain
native regiments, and 22 uns. At
first it was intended to assau t the city
by night, but as failure would have
been disastrous, it was considered best
to delay till the expected reinforce-
ments had arrived. Between the 12th
and 18th the rebels attacked the British
position four times, in front and rear.
Again on the 23d they attacked, having
been reinforced by the mutineers from
Nusseerabad. Fortunately the British
by that time had received an additional
850 men.
On the 24th General Chamberlain
arrived, and with him the 8th and 61st
Europeans, the 1st Panjab Infantry,
a squadron of Panjab Cavalry, and 4
guns, raising the British strength to
6600. The rebels had received an
accession of about 4500 from Bareilly.
On the 9th and 14th of July fierce
engagements were fought on the right
of the English position, near Hindu
Rao’s house, in and about the Subzee-
mundee. In these engagements the
British lost 25 officers and 400 men.
“On the 17th of July Gen. Reed
resigned the command, and made it
over to Brig-Gen. Archdale Wilson.
At this time the besieging force was in
great difficulties; two generals had died,
a third had been compelled by illness
to resign, the Adj.-Gen. and Quarter-
master-Gen. lay wounded in their
tents; and the rebels had attacked so
often, and with such obstinacy, that
it had come to be acknowledged that
the British were the besieged and not
the besiegers. On the 18th of July
the rebels made another sortie, which
was repulsed by Col. Jones of the 60th
Rifles. The Engineer officers then
cleared away the walls and houses
which had afforded cover to the enemy,
and connected the advanced posts with
the main picqnets on the Ridge. After
this there were no more conflicts in the
Subzee-mundee. 0n the 23d of J uly the
enemy streamed out of the Cashmere
Gate, and endeavoured to establish
themselves at Ludlow Castle. They
were driven back, but the English
were drawn too near the city walls,
and suffered severe loss. An order
was then issued prohibiting pursuit,
which had led to so many disasters.
But reinforcements were now on their
way from the Panjab, and were to he
commanded by one of the best soldiers
that India had ever produced—Gen.
Nicholson.
“On the 7th of August Nicholson
stood on the Ridge at Delhi. He had
come on in advance of his column,
which consisted of 2500 men. On the
12th of August Brig. Showers led a
column to drive the enemy from Lud-
low Castle, which they had now occu-
pied. He took them by‘surpn'se, and
drove them out with great slaughter,
capturing two guns; but he fell severely
wounded, and Coke shared the same
fate. On the 14th of August Nichol-
son’s column arrived. On the 25th he
marched out towards Najafgarh with a
strong force to attack the Sepoys, who
had moved to intercept the siege train
coming from Ferozepur. The march
was a troublous one, through deep
mud. He found the mutineers in three
bodies, occupying two villages and a
sarai in front, all protected by guns.
As the English passed the ford, the
water being breast-high even there,
the enemy poured upon them a shower
of shot and shell. Nicholson, at the
head of the 61st and the Fusiliers,
stormed the sarai, and captured the
guns; but the Se oys fought well,

and sold their lives early. Those who


134 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
survived limbered up their guns and
made for the bridge crossing the Najaf-
garh Canal. Nicholson’s men over-
took them, killed 800, and captured 13
guns. It turned out to be the Neemuch
Brigade who were thus beaten. The
Baraili Brigade had not come up.
Nicholson blew up the Najafgarh
Bridge, and returned to camp.
“ On the morning of the 4th of Sep-
tember the siege guns, drawn by
elephants, with an immense number of
ammunition waggons, appeared on the
Ridge. On the 6th the rest of the Rifles
from Meerut marched in. On'the 8th the
J ummoo contingent arrived, with Rich-
ard Lawrence at their head. Many, and
amongst them foremost of all Nichol-
son, chafed at the delay which occurred
in storming Delhi. The responsibility
of the attack rested with Archdale
Wilson, and he had stated the magni-
tude of the enterprise in a letter to
Baird Smith, of the 20th of August.
‘ Delhi is 7 m. in circumference, filled
with an immense fanatical population,
garrisoned by full 40,000 soldiers,
armed and disciplined by ourselves, with
114 heavy pieces of artillery mounted on
the walls, with the largest magazine of
shot, shell, and ammunition in the
Upper Provinces, besides some 60 pieces
of field artillery, all of our own manu-
facture, and manned by artillerymen
drilled and taught by ourselves; the
Fort itself having been strengthened by
perfect flanking defences, erected by
our own engineers, and a glacis which
prevents our guns breaching the walls
lower than 8 ft. from the top.’ These
circumstances led Wilson to write that
the chances of success were, in his
opinion, anything but favourable ; but
he would yield to the judgment of the
chief engineer. Many condemned his
apparent reluctance to order the assault,
but they have since acknowledged that
they did him less than justice, for the
principles of warfare were upon his side.
“Investment by the English, with
their limited means, being impossible,
it was necessary to concentrate all their
breaching power on a portion of the
walls selected for a front of attack.
This was the Mori, Cashmere, and Water
Bastions, with their connecting cur-

tains. This front was chosen because
the fire of the Mori Bastion alone com-
manded the approach to it, and because
there was excellent cover to within a
short distance of the walls. On the
evening of the 6th of September, a light
battery, consisting of six 9-pounders and
two 24-pounders, under the command of
Captain Remmington, was constructed
on the plateau of the Ridge to protect
the operations going on below. On the
night of the 7 th the first heavy battery
was constructed at 700 yds. from the
wall. It consisted of two parts connected
by a trench. The right portion held
five heavy guns and a howitzer, the func-
tion of which was to demolish the Mori
Bastion. The left held four guns to keep
down the fire of the Cashmere Bastion.
While darkness lasted the enemy only
fired twice, but when the morning re-
vealed the British plans, the rebels
poured in a shower of shot and shell,
but the English persevered in their
work, and before sunset the rebel
battery was silenced. The English
had lost 70 men in the trenches. The
left section of their battery maintained
a fire on the Cashmere Bastion during
the greater part of three days, butatnoon
on the 10th it took fire and the guns
were of necessity withdrawn. By that
time No. 2 Battery had been finished
—the left section immediately in the
front of Ludlow Castle, and the right
section 90 yds. to the front of it. Both
were within 600 yds. of the city; the
right section had seven howitzers and
two 18-pounders, and the left section
nine 24-pounders.
“ This battery did not open fire till
No. 3 Battery was completed. It was
built behind part of the Custom House,
at 180 yds. from the Water Bastion,
on which it was to play. The enemy
poured in such an incessant fire of
musketry, with occasional shells, that
it was impossible to work in the day,
and difficult at night. Meantime a
powerful mortar battery was con-
structed in the Kudsiya Bagh. At 8
A. M. on the 11th of September the nine
24-pounders in the left section of No.
2 Battery opened with terrific effect on
the Cashmere Bastion. The enemy re-
plied and severely wounded the com-


ROUTE 6.
135
THE SIEGE OF DELHI
mandant of the heavy guns, but their
fire was soon silenced by No. 2 Battery,
aided by the mortars in the Kudsiya
Bagh. Then the walls of Delhi began
to fall, and whole yards of parapet came
down. At 11 A.M. on the 12th No. 3
Battery unmasked and pounded the
Water Bastion into ruins. All through
the 12th and 13th the roar of 50 heavy
guns was heard day and night, without
intermission. On the 13th Alexander
Taylor, of whom Nicholson said, ‘If I
survive to-morrow I will let all the
world know that Aleck Taylor took
Delhi,’ announced that the breaches
were practicable.
“The arrangements for storming
Delhi were forthwith made. The 1st
Column under Nicholson consisted of
300 men of the 75th Foot, 250 of the
1st Fusiliers, and 450 of the 2d Panjab
Infantry. It was to storm the breach
near the Cashmere Bastion. The 26.
Column, under Brig. Jones, C.B., was
to storm the breach in the Water Bas-
tion, and it consisted of 250 men of
the 8th Foot, 250 of the 2d Fusiliers,
and 350 of the 4th Sikhs. The 3d
Column, under C01. Campbell of the
52d, was to assault the Cashmere Gate,
and consisted of 200 men of the 52d
Foot, 250 of the Kumaon Battalion,
and 500 of the 1st Panjab Infantry.
The 4th Column, under Major Charles
Reid, who so long and gallantly held
the post at Hindu Rao’s house, was to
enter the city by the Lahore Gate. It
consisted of 860 men of the Sirmur
Battalion, the Guides, and other corps.
The 5th Column, the Reserve, was com-
manded by Brig. Longfield, and con-
sisted of 1700 men.
“On the night of the 13th Lieuts.
Medley and Lang explored the Cash-
mere breach, and Greathed and Home
that of the Water Bastion. The morn-
ing of the 14th was fine and still.
Nicholson laid his arm on Brig. J ones’s
shoulder, and asked him if he was
ready. He then rejoined his own
Column, gave the order to storm, and
immediately the heavy guns, which
were roaring at their loudest, became
silent. The Rifles sounded the ad-
vance, and the 1st and 2d Columns
ascended the glacis. The fire of the

enemy was terrible, and the Engineers
Greathed and Ovenden were the first
to fall. The 2d Column had been di-
vided into three sections, Col. Greathed
of the 8th Foot leading the 1st, Captain
Boyd the 2d, and Brig. Jones the 3d.
The stormers carrying the ladders were
led by Captain Baines and Lieut. Metje.
When Baines reached the Water Bas-
tion he had only 25 men left out of 75.
Both he and Metje were carried dis-
abled to the rear. The 1st Column
was divided into two sections. Nichol-
son himself led one, and Col. Herbert
of the 75th the other. Nicholson was
the first to mount the wall. In the
other section Lieut. Fitzgerald, who
was the first to ascend, was shot dead.
His place was soon supplied, and soon
both sections of the 1st Column had
carried the breach near the Cashmere
Bastion, and taken up their osition at
the Main Guard. The 2 Column,
having entered by the breach in the
Cashmere curtain, doubled along the
open space to their right, and cleared
the ramparts to the Mori Bastion,
where the rebel gunners fought gal-
lantly, and were bayoneted at their
guns. The Column then advanced
and took the Kabul Gate, on which a
soldier of the 61st planted a flag. From
the Lahore Gate the enemy kept up a
galling fire. Nicholson collected a
number of men to storm this gate. As
he advanced he found himself in a long
narrow lane lined with marksmen on
both sides. Some of the enemy’s guns
were brought to bear on the attacking
column, and the men fell fast. Major
Jacob of the 1st Fusiliers received his
death-wound, Captain Grcville and
Lieut. Speke were struck down. The
Column wavered; Nicholson rushed for-
ward, his loftystature rendered him con-
spicuous, and in a moment he was shot
through the body, and in spite of his re-
m onstrances was carried to the rear to die.
“ The 3d Column had been appointed
to enter the city through the Cashmere
Gate, which was to be blown open by
Lieuts. Home and Salkeld, Sergeants
Carmichael, Burgess, and Smith. Home,
with his bugler, was first down into
the ditch. He planted his bag, but as
Carmichael advanced with his he was


136 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
mortally wounded. Smith then ad-
vanced, and placed his dying comrade's
bag as well as his own, and prepared
the fuzes for ignition. Salkeld was
ready with a slow match, but as he
was lighting it he received two bullets,
and falling he called on Smith to take
the match, which was taken by Bur-
gess, and Smith was in the act of
giving him a box of lucifers when Bur-
gess also‘fell with a bullet through his
body. Smith was now alone, but he
had struck a light, and was applying
it when a portfire went off in his face.
There was a thick smoke and dust,
then a roar and a crash, as Smith
scrambled into the ditch. There he
placed his hand on Home, who said he
was unhurt, and having joined the
Column went foward. The gate had
been shattered, but not so destroyed
as had been anticipated. But the 3d
Column passed through it. Smith
there obtained stretchers, and had Bur-
gess and Salkeld carried to the camp,
but both of them died—Burgess on the
way, and Salkeld a few days afterwards.”
Thus were the walls of Delhi won,
but before the whole place was in our
possession there was six days’ more
severe fighting, which there is not space
to describe. Our loss in these street
encounters was most severe, and tried
greatly our exhausted force.
This very short and incomplete sum-
mary of events, which renders Delhi one
of the most important historical sites in
Asia, will prepare the visitor to appreci-
ate some of the most interesting spots.
ITINERARY.
The sights of Delhi and its neigh-
bourhood cannot well be seen in less
than 3 days. These 3 days may be
employed in the following manner :—
lst Morning—Fort and Palace,
Jumma Musjid, Jain Temple, Kalan
Musjid. '
Aflemwm.--Drive to Ferozabad and
Indrapat.
2d Morning—Visit sights outside
the town in connectionwith the Mutiny,
driving out by the Cashmere Gate and
returning by the Mori Gate.
Afternoon—Drive by Jai Sing’s Ob-
servatory to Safdar J ang's Tomb, round

by Tomb of Nizamu-din Aubija to that
of Humayun, and so back. 4
3d Day.—Starting early, drive to
Kutb, stopping on route to see the
Reservoir of Hauz-i-Khas. After an
early lunch eon, proceed to Tughlakabad,
and back by the Muttra Road.
Oste'rs or INTEREST WITHIN THE
CITY.
The Port or Citadel has 2 grand gate-
ways to the W. The Lahore Gate is
truly a magnificent building, and from
the top is a fine view looking W. to the
Jumma Musjid, with, to its right, a
white Jain temple and the Indian
town. Straight from the gate is the
street called the Chandni Chauk,
“ Silver Square." To the right,
outside the city, are Hindu Rao’s
house, and the other celebrated places
on the Ridge ; and immediately to the
S. is the Delhi Gate of the Fort, very
similar in appearance and construction
to the other. .
Passing under the Lahore gateway,
the traveller will proceed due E. along
a great arcade like a huge cathedral,
but lined with shops on each side, to
the Nakar Khana (A), beyond which
is the Diwan-i-’Am (B), or Hall of
Public Audience, “ open at three sides,
and supported by rows of red sandstone
pillars, formerly adorned with gilding
and stucco-work. In the wall at the
back is a staircase that leads up to
the throne, raised about 10 ft. from
the ground, and covered by a canopy,
supported on four pillars of white
marble, the whole being curiously in-
laid with mosaic work. Behind the
throne is a doorway by which the
Emperor entered from his private a art-
ments. The whole of the wall behind
the throne is covered with paintings
and mosaic, in precious stones, of the
most beautiful flowers, fruits, birds,
and beasts of Hindustan. They were
executed by Austin de Bordeaux, who,
after defrauding several of the princes
of Europe by means of false gems, which
he fabricated with great skill, sought
refuge at the court of Shah Jehan,
where he made his fortune, and was in
high favour with the Emperor. In
front of the throne, and slightly raised
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some 6.
DELHI our 1 37
above the floor of the hall, is a lar c
slab of white marble, which was former y
richly inlaid with mosaic work, of which
the traces only now remain." 1
The Diwan-i-Khas (D), or Private
Hall of Audience, is about 100 yds.
farther on to the E., and is a pavilion
of white marble 0 en on all sides and
richly ornamente with gold (regilt
1891) and pietra dura work. The ceiling
is said to have been plated with silver,
which was carried off by the Marathas
in 1760. Over the N. and S. arches is
written the famous Persian distich :
If on earth be an Eden of bliss,
It is this, it is this, none but this.
In the centre of the E. side is the white
marble stand on which the Takht-i-
Taus, or famous Peacock Throne,
carried away by Nadir Shah in 1739,
rested. It is still to be seen in the
Royal Palace at Teheran. It “was
so called from its having the figures
of two peacocks standing behind it,
their tails being expanded, and the
whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies,
emeralds, pearls, and other precious
stones of appropriate colours, as to
represent life. The throne itself was
6 ft. long by 4 ft. broad; it stood
on six massive feet, which, with the
body, were of solid gold, inlaid with
rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. It
was surmounted by a canopy of gold,
supported by twelve pillars, all richly
emblazoned with 00stly gems, and
a fringe of pearls ornamented the
borders of the canOpy. Between the
two peacocks stood the figure of a
parrot of the ordinary size, said to
have been carved out of a single
emerald. On either side of the throne
stood an umbrella, one of the Oriental
emblems of royalty. They were formed
of crimson velvet, richly embroidered
and fringed with pearls; the handles
were 8 ft. high, of solid gold, and
studded with diamonds. The throne
was planned and executed under the
supervision of Austin de Bordeaux,
already mentioned in connection with
the Diwan-i-‘Am.”
The Saman Burj (G) andRang Mahal
(O), to the S. of the Diwan-i-Khas, has
in the centre of its N. wall a richly
l Beresford’s Guide to Delhi, 1850.

carved and gilt screen, with a small
window in the middle, and above, the
Mizan-i-Insaf, or “scales of justice."
The ladies’ apartments here are of
white marble, beautifully inlaid below,
with fresco-work above, and adorned
with gilded scrolls. In the old days,
as is explained b the verses, they were
surrounded by a. ormal Oriental garden
and fountains. The palace must then
have been more beautiful than any-
thing in the East that we know of. N ow
everything has been cleared away; even
the houses have been removed, and the
buildings that are left have become
quarters for the English soldiers.
Viewing the detached remnants of the
royal residence as they now stand, it is
difficult to realise the general idea on
which the ground was laid out, but this
will be rendered more easy by an exam-
ination of the accompanying native plan
of the valace in its splendour, from a
plate in crgusson’s Indian Architecture.
A shallow channel for water runs
from the Baths beneath the Diwan-i-
Khas across the open courtyard to the
Saman Burj. The Baths (F), called the
’Akab Baths, are a little to the N. of
the DiwanJi-Khas. They consist of 3
large rooms, floored with white marble,
elaborately inlaid with pietra dura
work, and crowned with white marble
domes. In the centre of each room
there is a fountain, and in the wall of
one of them a reservoir of marble.
These baths were lighted by windows
of coloured glass in the roof.
Opposite to them, to the W., is the
Moti Musjid(E), or the “Pearl Mosque,"
an architectural gem of white and gray
marble. It has a bronze door covered
with designs in low relief, and the
facade has three arches. The mosque
proper has three arches, and is divided
into two aisles. The arches display
some Hindu influence. The walls are
most delicately decorated with low
reliefs. Saiyad Ahmad says it was
built in 1635 A.D. by Aurangzib, and
cost 160,000 rs.
The rest of the palace has been cleared
away to make room for barracks, etc.
Jumma. Musjid.-—This mosque is
said to be unrivalled for size. Mr.


138 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI_
Fergusson says in his Hist. of Arch.
p. 600 : “The Jumma Musjid at Delhi
is not unlike the Moti Musjid in the
Agra Fort in plan, though built on a
very much larger scale, and adorned
with two noble minarets. which are
wanting in the Agra example; while
from the somewhat capricious admix-
ture of red sandstone with white marble
it is far from possessing the same
elegance and purity of effect. It is,
however, one of the few mosques, either
in India or elsewhere, that is designed
to produce a pleasing effect externally.
It is raised on a lofty basement, and its
three gateways, combined with the four
angle towers and the frontispiece and
domes of the mosque itself, make up a
design where all the parts are pleasingly
subordinated to one another, but at the
same time produce a whole of great
variety and elegance. Its principal
gateway cannot be compared with that
at Fatehpur-Sikri (near Agra), but it
is a noble portal, and from its smaller
dimensions more in harmony with the
objects by which it is surrounded.”
The gateways are surmounted with
galleries, on the roof of which are fif-
teen marble domes, with spires tipped
with gold. Above these are six fluted
marble minarets, with open arched
chambers at the top, and surmounted
with gilt pinnacles. These three noble
gateways are approached by grand
flights of ste s, unrivalled in Delhi or
elsewhere, a ding materially to the
grandeur of the whole effect.
The doors are massive and overlaid
with brass arabesques half an inch thick,
giving access to a stately quadrangle,
325 ft. square, in the centre of which
are a marble basin and fountain.
Round three sides of the quadrangle
runs an open sandstone cloister, 15 ft.
wide, with pillars of the same material.
The mosque proper is 201 ft. long and
120 ft. bread. The inscription gives
the date in Arabic as 1658 A.D., the
year in which Aurangzib deposed his
father, Shah Jehan.
Five thousand workmen were em-
ployed for six years in the construction
of this mosque. At the N.E. corner is
a pavilion in which are placed relics of
Mohammcd. The traveller must not
forget to ask to see the M88. and relies
here. There is a Koran written in
Kufik of the time of ’Ali, that is in the
7th century of our era; one written b
the Imam Husain, very clear and we
preserved; one written by the Imam
Hasan, the pages of which are much
crumpled at the beginning; the Kafsh-
i-Mubarak or “Prophet’s Slipper," filled
with jasmine; the Kadmu’l Mubarak,
“ Footprint of the Prophet ” imprinted
on a stone; Mui-i-Mubarak, a hair of
the Prophet’s moustaches ; and part of
the canopy over the Prophet’s tomb.
The two minarets ‘rise to the height of
130 ft. They contain staircases, and
the ascent to the top is easy. At the
top are small pavilions, from which the
whole city can be viewed.
Chandni Chauk, which is the princi-
pal street of the city, runs from E. to
W. in almost a direct line from the
Lahore Gate of the Fort to the Lahore
Gate in the W. wall of the city. It is
lined with fine trees, and has a covered
aqueduct running along the middle.
The chief articles of native manufac-
ture are jewellery and embroidery in
gold and silver, and the best shops are
in this street. In the centre of the
Chandni Chauk is the Northbrook
Fountain. The Mosque of Roshanu-
daulah, also called the Sonala. or
“ Golden Mosque," from its three gilt
domes, is close to this fountain. It was
built in Muhammad Shah’s reign, by
Roshanu-daulah Zafar Khan in 1721
A. D. It is a small but beautiful build-
ing, and on it Nadir Shah sat during
the massacre at Delhi. The Kotwali
is next to it, and it was here that
Hodson exposed the bodies of the Delhi
Princes whom he had killed. At the
W. end of the Chandni Chauk is the
Fatehpuri Mosque. It was built in
1650 an. by Fatehpi'rri Begam, wife of
Shah Jehan. It is of red sandstone.
There are two minarets 105 ft. high.
The Mor (or Queen’s) Sarai, in Queen's
Road, near the rly. sta., is a modern
structure built by the Municipal Com-
mittee at a cost of 100,570 rs. for the
accommodation of native travellers.
Close by are the Queen’s Gardens.
They have the Chandni Chauk skirting
them to the S., and face the rly. and

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ROUTE 6.
DELHI CITY 139
sta. on the N. They are laid out with
. beautiful trees and shrubs of all kinds,
and in them stands a huge stone ele-
phant. On the platform upon which it
is raised is an inscri tion stating that it
was brought from Swalior, and set up
outside the south gate of his new palace
by the Emperor Shah Jehan, 1645 A.D.
A legend relates that the two famous
Rajput chiefs, Jaimall and Patta, who
defended Chitor against Akbar, were
represented by stone figures riding on
this and another elephant which has
been lost. Akbar himself killed Jai-
mall, and set up the elephants, with
the two warriors riding on them,
at Agra. Shah Jehan brought them
to Delhi. They were mutilated by
Aurangzib and lost sight of. The two
figures are now in the verandah of the
Museum of the Institute, which con-
tains little of interest except portraits
of the two Lawrences, Sir R. Mont-
gomery, Nicholson, Lord Metcalfe, Lord
Canning, and others—poor pictures, but
better than none. The Clock Tower
adjoins this building, and stands in the
Chandni Chauk. It is of red sand-
stone, 128 ft. high.
The Kalan Musjid, or Black Mosque,
to the S. of the town near the Turku-
man Gate1 is well worthy of a visit as
one of the most perfect specimens of
the age of Feroz Shah Tughlak, 1386.
On the outside, the building consists
of two stories, of which the lower,
forming a kind of plinth to the actual
place of worship, is 28 ft. high, the
total height to the to of the battle-
ments being 66 ft. “ ' he sloping style
of the architecture seems peculiarly
illustrative of the buildings of that and
earlier periods. The sloping pilasters
on each side of the main entrance give
somewhat of an Egyptian appearance
to the front of the building, which is
not dissimilar from those of the more
ancient remains of Hindu architecture.
. . . The peculiar construction of the
arches and domes, the stones of which
1 The Turkuman Gate has its name from a
saint called Shah Turkuman, who was styled
the “ Sun of Devotees." He died in 638 All. =
1240 A.D., in the time of Mnizzu-din Bahrain
, Shah. There is a pavement round his tomb,
and on the 24th of Rajah a great hair is held
here.
are held together by the wonderful
adhesive qualities of the lime used in
those days, without any keystones, is
characteristic of the Mohammedan
Indian buildings of the 14th cent."
(Carr Stephen). The walls, which are
very thick, have in the up )er story a
number of openings, filled with red
stone screens, now much mutilated.
There is a stern look about this sombre
unadorned building, the plan of which
Bishop Heber says “is exactly that of
the original Arabian mosques—a square
court surrounded by a cloister and
roofed with many small domes of the
plainest and most solid construction."
The Jain Temple, to the N.W. of the
J umma Musjid (about end of last cent.)
is approached by narrow streets, and
stands upon a high walled platform
gained by narrow steps. It consists of
a small marble court surrounded by a
stucco colonnade in front of the temple
proper, which rises breast-high above
the court and is surmounted by an
oblong dome. Within, the ceiling and
walls are richly gilded, and are sup-
ported by two rows of small marble
columns. In the centre of the temple
is a pyramidal platform in 3 tiers, upon
which rests a small figure of Buddha,
seated beneath an elaborate ivory
canopy. In the porch, Fergusson
draws particular attention to the ex-
quisite device of filling in the back of
the struts which support the architrave
beneath the dome—characteristic of
Jain architecture—with foliated tracery.
The Cambridge Mission to Delhi
was sent out from the University in
1876. The members live in community
at the Mission House near the United
Service Hotel. They work among the
natives in connection with the S.P.G.
which has an old established station
here. The Mission Compound and St.
Stephen's Mission Church are close to
the railway station. The two Missions
conjointly have charge of St. Stephen’s
College, of a native boys' boarding
school with 600 pupils, and several
day schools.
The S.P. G. has also a Medical Mis-
sion here.


140 ROUTE 6.
I ndr'a
BOMBAY TO DELHI
SITES IN CONNECTION wrrn THE
MUTle AND SIEGE OF 1857.
The Ridge is outside the city about 1
m. to the N. W. The traveller driving
there from the rly. sta. will pass the
following objects of interest on his way.
Near the Post and Telegraph Offices
are the 3 Gateways of the Arsenal,
which was blown up by Willoughby
on the 11th May 1857. They have
been left standing in memoriam. From
what remains it is evident that it was
a fine building.
St. James's Memorial Church, rt.,
was erected at the sole expense of Colonel
Skinner, as recorded in a tablet on left
of entrance. Another tablet records
that he died at Hansi in 1841, and was
buried in this church in 1842. It is a
rotunda, with four large porticoes sup-
ported by pillars.
In the church are a large number of
tablets of unusual interest, some to
commemorate regimental losses, some
in remembrance of whole families, and
others in memory of individuals. It is
a sad list ; a record of evil times.
Beyond to the E. is the Cashmere
Gate, which was blown in on the
morning of 14th September, and the
site of the breaches close to it through
which the storming columns Nos. 1
and 2 passed. On a slab set up by
Lord Napier of Magdala, just outside
the gate, the event is described.
Just inside the Cashmere Gate was
posted the Main Guard at the time of
the Delhi Mutiny.
Outside the Cashmere Gate, the
Kudsiya. Gardens are about 300 yds.
to the N. ; they are prettily laid out.
Near them in the C’mnetery, close to the
entrance, is the tomb of General Nichol-
son, one of the greatest heroes of India.
“ Who led the assault of Delhi, but fell
In the hour of victory,
Mortally wounded,
And died 23d of September 1857.
Aged 35 years."
There is a splendid monument to
Nicholson in the Panjab, near Rawal
Pindi, but this is the place where his
body was actually interred. At the
end farthest from the entrance is a
memorial cross 25 ft. high.

Just beyond the Cemetery is Lud-
low Castle, a large house which was
the residence of Simon Frazer, the mur-
dered Commissioner of Delhi. There
are two blocks of masonry in the com-
pound inscribed as follows :—
No. 2 Battery, Left,
With armament nine 24-pounders,
Major CAMPBELL, R.A., commanding.
To breach curtain of Cashmere Bastion.
The 2d block is 150 yds. to the S.E.
and close to the cemetery wall :—
No. 2 Battery, Right,
Armament two lS-pounders and
Seven 8-inch howitzers,
Major EDWARD KAYE, R.A., commanding.
Ludlow Castle was a post of importance
in the closing scene of the siege of Delhi,
as will be seen from the historical sum
mary above. Continuing along the
Alipur Road, at some little distance the
traveller will pass Metcalfe House on
the right, and shortly after will reach
the Rid 0 Road, which commands a fine
view. ere is the Flag-stafi' Battery,
a castellated tower, now quite empty.
The Second Picquet is 300 yds. to
the S., and 400 yds. farther in the same
direction is a mosque,where the Mosque
Picquet was stationed. The building
is now a picturesque ruin. It is a
Pathan mosque, with the remains of
the battery in front. 200 yds. to the
S. E., is Hindu Rae's House, which is
now used as a convalescent hospital for
soldiers. It is a large white bungalow.
About 200 yds. S. of it is Asoka’s Pillar.
Asoka’s Pillar.—On the pedestal is
a tablet stating that this pillar was
originally erected at Meerut, in the 3d
century before Christ, by King Asoka.
It was removed thence, and set 11 in
the Kushk Shikar Palace, near t is,
by the Emperor Feroz Shah, 1356 A.D.;
thrown down and broken into five
pieces by the explosion of a powder
magazine in 1713-19. It was removed
and set up in this place by the British
Government 1867 (see vol. v. of the
Arch. Rep.) There are two of Asoka’s
pillars at Delhi, this one and another
standin on the top of a building in
Feroz S 1ah's Kotila, in F erozabad (see
below). Both of these pillars were
brought to Delhi by Feroz Shah. The


Roma 6.
141
OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
small inscriptions on this pillar are
dated Samwat 1369:1312 A.D. ; Sam-
wat 1416:1359 A.I). ; Samwat 1581:
1524 A. D. All the long inscriptions
are given at the end of Saiyad Ahmad's
Guide
The Mutiny Memorial—This is 400
yds. farther on along the Ridge, and
is of red sandstone. It forms an octa-
gonal Gothic spire, standing on three
diminishing platforms, with seven win-
dows, and was erected to commemorate
the events of the siege, the names of
the regiments and batteries who served
at it, and of the officers who died in the
performance of their duty. Ascending
to the top of the building, the traveller
will gain a complete view of the posi-
tion. In the plain to the N. of the
Ridge is the spot where H. M. the Queen
of England was proclaimed Empress of
India on the 1st of January 1877. On
that day Lord Lytton occupied a place
in a centre pavilion, with an amphi-
theatre in front of him in which were
all the great princes and chiefs of India,
while at his back sat the leading
European officials and envoys from
places even as distant as Siam, and to
the W. an army of about 50,000 men,
British and Indian, were drawn up.
Turning from the Ridge S. by the
circular road, the traveller may re-enter
the city by the Mori Gate, close to
which is seen the Mori Bastion, from
which the rebels maintained so terrible
a fire till the storming.
OLD DELHI AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD-
The ’Idgah is west of the city about
1 m. from the walls, and not far off is
the Kadam Simnf, or “Holy Footstep ”
(also called the Farash Khana), where
there is the tomb of Prince Fateh Khan,
built by his father Feroz Shah in 1374.
There is also a Mosque, College, and
other buildings, and a miraculous im-
press of the Prophet’s foot, said to have
been brought from Mecca by the young
Prince’s tutor.
The Jail is i m. S. of the Delhi Gate,
on the o posite side of the road to
Ferozaba . It was an old Caravansarai,
and the walls are 25 ft. high, and very
massive. Paper, mats, carpets, and
bedding are made in the workshops.

To the E. about 250 yds. from the
jail is the fort of Ferozabad, built by
Feroz Shah Tughlak, 1354. It is now
utterly ruined, but must have been a
strong place in the old time when it
was the citadel of a city which extended
from the fort of Indrapat to the Kushk
Shikar, or “Hunting Palace,” near
Hindu Rao’s House, where the other
Pillar of Asoka, called the Delhi Meerut
Pillar, now stands. The three-storied
building called Kotila (see below),
stands due N. and S., at g m. to the
W. of the Jumna. The three stories
diminish in area as they rise.
The Lat, or Asoka pillar erected on
the roof, is broken at the top in a
jagged way. Cunningham calls it the
Delhi-Siwalik Pillar, as it was brought
from Tophar at the foot of the Siwalik
Hills, where the J umna enters the plains.
It is a monolith of pink sandstone, but
the people of the locality called it
(Kurund) corundum stone. “When
the pillar was fixed, the top was orna-
mented with black and white stone-
work surmounted by a gilt pinnacle,
from which no doubt it received
its name of Minar Zarin or ‘Golden
Minarct.’ This gilt pinnacle was still
in its place in 1611 A.D., as when
William Finch in that year visited
Delhi, he described the pillar as passing
through three several stories, rising 24
ft. above them all, having on the top a
globe surmounted by a crescent." The
pillar is 10 ft. 10 in. round, where it
issues from the roof, and the total height
is 42 ft. 7 in., of which 4 ft. 1 in. is
sunk in the masonry. At 10 ft. 1 in.
from the roof are some Nagri inscrip-
tions, with the dates in two of them,
Samwat 1581:1524 A.D, These must
have been inscribed after the removal
of the pillar to Delhi. The others
were written at Tophar. Above these
Nagri inscriptions is the Pali, which
contains the edict of Asoka prohibiting
the taking of life. The Pali inscription
dates from the middle of the 3d century
13.0., and the characters are of the oldest
form that has yet been found in India.
Though it is very clearly written, when
Feroz Shah assembled all the learned
of the day to decipher the inscription, .
they were unable to do so. The last ten


142 ROUTE 6.
India.
BOMBAY TO DELHI
lines on the E. face, as well as the whole
of the continuous inscription round the
shaft, are peculiar to this pillar, other-
wise the inscription is to the same
purport as those on the pillars of Girnar
and Allahabad. There is a second in-
scription, which records the victories
of the Ohauhan Prince Visala Deva,
whose power extended from Himadri
to Vindhya. This record consists of
two portions, the shorter one immedi-
ately above Asoka’s edicts, and the
longer immediately below them. Both
are dated Samwat 1220 = 1163 A.D., and
refer to the same prince. The minor
inscriptions are of little interest.
Indrapat or Pumna Ktlla (Old
Fort).—At 2 m. S. of the Delhi Gate,
the traveller (having passed rt. the fine
gateway of Lal Darwazah) will come to
the Old Fort, on the site of Indra-
prastha, the ancient city of Yudish-
thira, which fort was repaired by
Humayun, who changed its name .to
Dinpanah. The walls of the Old Fort
have crumbled in many places, and it
certainly has the a pearance of great
antiquity. There have been several
gates, but all are closed save one to the
S.W., reached by a very steep ascent.
The Killa Kona. Mosque, the chief ob-
ject of interest, is, Fergusson says, one
of the most satisfactory buildings of its
class in India. It is a noble specimen
of the late Pathan period, in which
“every detail was fitted to its place
and its purpose. We forget the Hindu
except in its delicacy, and we recognise
one of the com leted architectural
styles of the wor d." It is big and
bold with huge arches and sharp finely-
cut mouldings. To reach it you pass
along a lane between poor houses. It
was built by Sher Shah in 948 A.H.=
1541 A.D. It is of red sandstone, inlaid
with marble and slate, and covered with
inscri tions, texts from the Koran, in
the l‘iiiskh and Kufik characters. In
the alcoves and other parts the inlaid
work is very beautiful. The facade is
about 150 ft. long, and consists of 5
bays. The pendentives of the vaulting
are remarkably fine and should not
escape notice, and the struts which
support the side bays, which are oblong
in plan and not square, are curious.

The white marble Kiblah is covered
with texts, which are marvals of cali-
graphy. In the angle towers at the
back of the mosque are octagonal
pavilions richly ornamented with ex-
quisite designs in red sandstone. To
the S. is an octagonal building of red
sandstone called the Sher Mandil, 70 ft.
high. In 963 A.H.=1555 an. Huma-
yun placed his library here. On that
very night it was understood that
Venus would rise, and the Emperor,
wishing to see it, fell down the staircase
and died a few days afterwards of the
injuries he received.
Tomb of Nizamu-din Auliya is about
1 m. S. of Indrapat, andstands within
an enclosure surrounded by other tombs
and sacred buildings. The traveller
must leave his carriage and walk
through ruins to an archway. At 30
yds. from this is the Ohausath Khamba,
or “Hall of 64 Pillars,” the resting-
place of ’Azizah Kokal Tash, foster-
brother of the' Emperor Akbar. It is
all of white marble ; and the “chased
style in which the pillars are orna-
mented, the well- finished groined
arches, and the beautiful screens, form
an uncommonly beautiful sight."
Azizah’s cenotaph, also of white marble,
bearing the date 1623, is at the W.
end; beyond it is that of his mother,
and there are eight others.
To the W. of the Ohausath Khamba
is an enclosure in which is the Dargah
of Ntzamu-din. The first thing on
entering to be noticed is the tomb of the
Ami'r Khusmu the poet. The real name
of this personage was Abu ’l Hasan, and
he was called Tuti-i‘Hind, “ Parrot of
Hindustan,” from the sweetness of his
style. His grandfather, a Turk, came
to Hindustan from Trans-oxyana, in
the time of Changiz Khan, and died at
Delhi, leaving a son named Amir Mah-
mud, or according to others, Saifu—
din, who was high in the favour of the
Emperor Tughlak Shah. He perished
in battle against the Hindus. His son
Amir Khusrau succeeded to the royal
favour, and enjoyed the confidence and
patronage of seven successive emperors.
He became so famous that it is said
that S’adi, the celebrated Persian poet,
visited India for the sole purpose of


_r_':m_'_____—_:i;-_-il——————
.-’-
IQ-


ROUTE 6,. OLD DELHI
AND NEIGHBOURHOOD 143
seeing him. He was the author of 98
works, of which the greater part are
lost. His songs are still in popular
use. He died at Delhi in 1315.
At the N. end of the small square
building which forms Khusrau's tomb
is a tall white marble slab, on which is
written, first the Moslem Creed, and
then 18 Persian couplets. N. of this
tomb is that of Mirza Jahangir, son of
Akbar Shah II. There are, as custo-
dians of the tombs here, 50 descendants
of Nizamu-din’s sister. The saint him-
'self never married. The family are
Sufis. The tomb is of white marble,
and the handsome lattice-work is of the
same material. It is on the right of
the entrance into the enclosure, and the
tomb of Muhammad Shah is on the
left. Muhammad Shah was the em-
peror whom Nadir Shah despoiled of
immense treasures.
To the S. of it is the tomb of the
truly pious andheavenly-mindedJehwn-
aura, daughter of Shah Jehan. At
the W. end is a headstone 6 ft. hi h,
on which at top is in Arabic, “ G0 is
the life and the resurrection," followed
by the letter Mim, one of the mystical
letters of the Koran, under which is a
Persian inscription as follows :—
Save the green herb, place naught above my
head
Such p’all alone befits the lowly dead;
The fleeting poor Jehanara lies here,
Her sire was Shah J ehan and Chist her Pir.
May God the Ghazi monarch‘s proof make
clear.
The verses end with a conventional
line, which expresses a prayer for her
father. The date is 1681.
The holy men of Chist are the family
described in connection with the Dargah
at Ajmere. _
On the left of J ehanara’s tomb is that
of 'Ali Gauhar Mirza, son of Shah ’Alam,
and on the right that of Jamilu
N isa, daughter of Akbar Shah II.
The building covering the tomb of
Nizamu-din, the greatest of the re-
nowned Chisti saints, is of white
marble ; it is 18 ft. sq., and has Ia
verandah 8 ft. broad, built by Mir
Miran’s son. The date is 1063 A.H.=
1652 A.D.

Over the actual cenotaph is a wooden
canopy, and as usual with tombs of
great personages it is covered with a
cloth. The lattice-work screens ofwhite
marble are exquisitely carved, and the
verandah is ornamented with a painted
flower scroll. To the W. two fine trees
overshadow the building, and a few
yards to the S. of them is a Kirni tree,
said to be as old as the time of Nizamu-
din.
N. of this is a Well with galleries,
built by the saint, who is said to have
blessed it, so that no one who dives in it
is ever drowned. The usual depth is 39
ft. Into this men and boys spring from
the roofs and walls of the adjacent build-
ing, coming down from a height of 50 ft.
On the E. side of the tomb enclosure
is a square marble cistern, holding
perhaps twelve gallons, which when a
person desires to make an offering has
to be filled with a mixture of rice,
sugar, milk, and other good things.
On one occasion, when the writer sat
reading in the mosque, one of the
principal dancing women of Delhi
arrived to pay her devotions, accom-
panied by her mother and her attendant
musicians, and bringing the food in a
very large iron pot with her. Whilst
this was preparing she dressed herself '
in cloth of gold and danced for a long
time before the tomb of Khusrau, and
afterwards for a shorter time before
that of Nizamu-din. When this part of
the ceremony was over, the food which
had been placed in the marble vessel was
distributed in a very orderly manner
to every one connected with the place.
H. G. Keene says of Nizamu-din : “ He
is said by some to have been a sorcerer,
by others an assassin of the secret
society of Khorasan. Sleeman was of
opinion that he was the founder of
Thu ggism, as the Thugs profess a special
reverence for his memory.”
Humayun’s Tomb about 1 m. S. of
Indrapat. The approach is through
two gateways, the first being of red
sandstone, and lofty. On the left of
the second door of the entrance is a
placard which says that the Nawab
Hamidah Bano Begam, otherwise called
Haji Begam, widow of Humayun, built
the mausoleum after her husband's


144 ROUTE 6.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO DELHI
death. He died in 1555 AJ). It cost 15
lakhs, and took 16 years to build.
Hamidah Bano and other members of
the Imperial family are buried here.
The mausoleum stands upon a wide


Sketch Plan of Humayun’s Tomb.
raised platform, and consists of a large
central octagon surmounted by a dome
with octagon towers of unequal sides
at the angles. “ Its plan is that after-
wards adopted at the Taj, but used
here without the depth and oetry of
that celebratedbuilding. It is, owever,
a. noble tomb, and anywhere else must
be considered a wonder” (Fergusson).
A side door leads into a chamber in
which are three beautiful white marble
tombs, being those of ’Alamgir II.,
Farakh Sir, and Jehandar Shah.
. There are no names or dates. Huma-
yun’s cenotaph is of white marble, and
is under the centre of the dome, in an
octagonal hall, —it is quite plain, with-
out any inscription.
The enclosure in which the mauso-
leum stands contains about 11 acres.
The red sandstone is most artistically
picked out in relief with white marble.
The windows are recessed, and the
lower doors are filled in with lattices
cut out of the solid stone and marble.
In the centre of each side of the main
octagon is a porch 40 ft. high with a
pointed arch. The wall of the dome
is 11 ft. thick, and covered with slabs
of white marble. The view from the
top is worth seeing. Hither Baha-
dur Shah fled after the storming of
Delhi in 1857, and surrendered to
Hodson, who on the following day, with
a small force and in the presence of a
threatening concourse of natiVes, re-
turned for the princes, the sons of
Bahadur Shah, who also surrendered
and were shot by him on the spot.

J ai (J ey) Sing’s Observatory, or the
Jantr Mantr. is 2 In. S. of the Ajmere
Gate and 250 yds. to the 1. of the main
road. Mr. Beresford’s description of all
these buildings is the best (see Delhi,
1856). “The largest of the buildings
is an immense equatorial dial, named
by the Rajah the Samrat Yantra, or
‘ Prince of Dials,’ the dimensions of the
gnomon being as follows :—
ft. in.
Length of hypothenuse . 118 5
,, base . . . 104 0
,, perpendicular 56 7
These buildings, chiefly interesting
to persons who have a knowledge of
astronomy, were constructed in 1137
A.H. = 1724 A.D., by Jai Sing II. , Rajah
of J eypore, commonly called Sawai J ai
Sing. He was an engineer, mathe-
matician, and an astronomer. He con-
structed on his own plan this Observa-
tory, and others at Jeypore, Benares,
and Ujjain. All the buildings are now
much ruined.
Tomb of Safdar Jang.-—At 3 m.
beyond the Jantr Mantr, on the_right
of the road, is the tomb of Safdar J ang,
whose real name was Abu ’l Mansur
Khan, Safdar Jang being merely his
title. He was Vazir to Ahmad Shah,
eldest son of the Emperor Muhammad
Shah. In 1749-50 Safdar J ang engaged
in a war with the Rohillas, and was
defeated in a reat battle, when he was
obliged to cal in the Marathas. In
1753 he was deprived of his office of
Vazir, and died. His son, Shuj’au-
daulah, appointed Balal Muhammad
Khan to superintend the building of
this mausoleum, which cost three lakhs
of rupees. It is of red sandstone and
stucco. Safdar J ang’s wife, Khujistah
Bano Begam, is buried with him.
The mausoleum stands in an en-
closure. On the left of the entrance
is a sarai for travellers, and on the
right a mosque with three cupolas. On
the ground platform are two earthen '
mounds, which are the real graves.
This building is 99 ft. sq. and three stories
high, and contains in the central apart-
ment the marble cenotaph. Fergusson
bestows only qualified praise upon it, say-
ing “it will not bear close inspection."


ROUTE 6.
145
OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
A cross-road leads from this mau-
soleum to Humayun’s Tomb, which is
distant under 3 in. On the left of this
road is a group of four tombs, regarding
which General Cunningham writes:
“The N. group, consisting of two octa-
gonal tombs and a bridge of seven arches,
is attributed by the natives to the time
of the Lodi family, the larger tomb,
within a square, being assigned to
Sikandar Lodi, and I believe that this
attribution is most probably correct.
But the S. group, which consists of a
mosque and two square tombs, belongs,
in my opinion, to an earlier period."
Hauz - i - Khas.—This reservoir was
constructed by Sultan ’Alau-din in
the year 1293 A.D. ; it is 2 m. N. of the
Kutb, near the village of Kharera, and
is difficult of approach, as there is no
carriage-road to it. It is most easily
reached from Safdar J ang’s tomb. The
area of the tank is a little over 100
Indian acres. It is now a complete
ruin. Feroz Shah cleared it out in the
year 1354 A.D., and repaired it and
built a college near it, at which Yusuf
Bin Jamal Husaini was professor, and
he was buried in the courtyard of the
college. The tomb of Feroz Shah stands
on the bank. He died in 1388 11.1).
The tank is now dry, and is culti-
vated.
From Safdar Jang’s tomb to the
Kutb Minar is full 5 m. Near Begum-
pwr there is a mosque 800 yds. to the
left of the road.
The Kutb Miner, with its adjacent
mosque and surrounding buildings, is
about 11 m. from the Ajmere Gate, and
stands, it is said, on the site of the
original Hindu city of Dilli, probably
in the Fort of Lalkot built by Anang
Pal II. in 1052 A.D. Adjoining to the
E. was the Fort of Rai Pithora, 1180
A.D. The line of fortification of these
places is indicated by the mound ex-
tNen‘dving several miles to the W. and
The Kutb is a grand monument, and
looks what it is intended to be—a
tower of victory. It has been a question
whether it was not originally Hindu,
altered and completed by the Moham-
medan conquerors. It is the general
belief of the people that it was built
[India] '

by Rai Pithora, that his daughter
might see the Jumna from the top
of it. Saiyad Ahmad inclines to the
belief that it is of Hindu origin. But
Cunningham seems to come to the right
conclusion that it is a purely Moham-
medan building.1 The inscriptions
appear to show that it was begun by
Altamsh. As we see it at present, it is
240 ft. 6 in. high, and rises in a suc-
cession of 5 stories marked by corbelled
balconies and decorated with bands
of inscription. The base diameter is
47 ft, 3 in., and that of the top about
9 ft. The three first stories are of
red sandstone with semicircular and
angular flutings ; the two upper stories
are faced chiefly with white marble,
and were almost entirely rebuilt by
Feroz Shah Tughlak in 1368, when he
also added a cupola. On 1st Aug.
1803 the whole pillar was seriously
injured. by an earthquake and the
cupola thrown down. It was injudi-
ciously restored in 1829, when besides
the injury to the inscriptions already
mentioned, the battlements and the
balconies were removed and replaced
by the present flimsy balustrades, and
na entirely new cupola (now standing
on a mound by the side of the tower)
was erected. This cupola does not
pretend to any resemblance to the
original one. Notice should be taken
of the honeycomb work beneath the
brackets of the first story balconies, of
which the “structure differs in no
perceptible degree'from that in the
Alhambra.” It is worth, for the sake
of the view, to ascend to the top of the
Minar, where may be seen the stump
of Feroz Shah’s cupola.
The Mosque of Kutbu’l Islam (Kuvat
ul Islam) was begun by Kutbu-din
Aibeck when Viceroy, immediately after
the capture of Delhi in 587 an. : 1191
A.D., as recorded by the King himself
in the long inscription over the inner
archway of the E. entrance. Even in
ruins it is a magnificent work. It was
seen by Ibn Batuta about 150 years
after its erection, when he describes it
as having no equal, either in beauty or
extent. It is not so large as the great
1 For particulars regarding the discussion
see Archmo. Reports, vol. 1. p. 190.
L


146 ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI India
demolished by the Mohammedans.
Altamsh in 1210-1230 surrounded it
by a, larger cloistered court, in the SE.
mosques of Jaunpur and others, but
is still unrivalled for its grand line of
gigantic arches, and for the graceful

















PLAN
OF
MOSQUE OF KUTBU'L ISLAM ALA,
AND THE MINAR
KUTB MINAR "m3"
Tomb of' n
1,:
to +3
‘5) i
2 s
8 E
><
Lu 92
"‘ COOURT
\ ’ALAU -DIN
x300
Court of Allamsh
1210-1236









scale of peat ALAl DARWAZAH
100 200 300
“2° 59 <3


Wa [Mr 6* Boulall a“.
beauty of the flowered tracery which I corner of which stands the Kutb Mlllal‘,
covers its walls. and in 1300 'Alau-din appended a
It occupies the platform on which further eastern court, entered by his
stood Rai Pithora’s Hindu Temple, great S. gateway the Alai Darwazah


ROUTE 6.
147
OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
(see below). ’Alau-din also began the
Alai Minar (see below). The main
entrance to the mosque is an arched
gateway in the centre of its E. wall.
This opens upon the courtyard (142 ft.
X108 ft.), which is surrounded by
cloisters formed of Hindu, Buddhist,
and Jain pillars placed one upon another.
Some of these are richly ornamented ;
many of the figures have been defaced by
the Mohammedans, though some may
still be found in unnoticed corners. The
number of pillars thus brought into
use could not have been much less than
1200. The Arabic inscription over the
E. entrance to the courtyard states that
the materials were obtained from the
demolition of 27 idolatrous temples,
each of which had cost 27 lakhs of
dilials, 50 dilials being equal to 1 rupee.
The cost of the whole, therefore, was
£108,000. The domed pavilions in the
angles of the cloisters are worthy of
notice. The S. side of the cloister was
“with a strange want of discrimination ”
reconstructed in 1829.
The famous Iron Pillar (see below)
stands in front of the central opening
to the mosque proper, a building of
small proportions, now in ruins over-
topped and hidden by the vast screen
of gigantic arches which occupies the
whole of the W. side. This screen was
erected by Kutb later than his other
work, and was extended beyond on
either side for 115 ft. by Altamsh.
The central arch is 53 ft. high x 31 ft.
wide. “ The Afghan conquerors had a
tolerably distinct idea that pointed
arches were the true form of architec-
tural openings, but being without
science sufficient to construct them,
the left the Hindu architects and
bui ders to follow their own devices as
to the mode of carrying out the form.
Accordingly they proceeded to make
the pointed openings on the same prin-
ciple upon which they built their domes
—they carried them up in horizontal
courses as far as they could and then
closed them by long slabs meeting at
the top.” The impost in the central
arch was added by the British restorers.
The ornamentation, interspersed with
texts from the Koran, is evidently
taken from that on the old pillars.

Fragments of the roof of the mosque
still remain, supported by the small
Hindu columns, and do not reach more
than one-third of the height of the
screen.
The Iron Pillar is one of the most
curious antiquities in India. The Col-
ossus of Rhodes and the statues of
Buddha, described by Hiouen Thsang,
were of brass or copper, hollow, and of
pieces riveted together ; but this pillar
is a solid shaft of wrought iron, more
than 16 in. in diameter, and 23 ft. 8 in.
in length. The height of the pillar
above ground is 22 ft., but the smooth
shaft is only 15 ft., the capital being 3Q
ft. and the rough part below also 3'} ft.
Dr. Murray Thompson analysed a bit
of it, and found that it was pure
malleable iron of 7'66 specific gravity.
“The iron pillar records its own
history in a deeply cut Sanscrit
inscription of six lines on its W. face.
The inscription has been translated by
James Prinsep (B.A.S. Joum. vol. vii.
p. 630). The pillar is called ‘ the Arm
of Fame of Rajah Dhava.’ It is said
that he subdued a people on the
Sindhu, named Vahlikas, and obtained,
with his own arm, an undivided sove-
reignty on the earth for a long period.”
It appears that the Rajah was a wor-
shipper of Vishnu, and the pillar was
probably surmounted by a figure of
that deity. James Prinsep assigns the
3d or 4th century after Christ as the
date of the inscription, which Mr.
Thomas considers too high an antiquity.
General Cunningham suggests the year
319 A. D. According to universal tradi-
tion, the pillar was erected by Bilan
Deo, or Anang Pal, the founder of the
Tomar dynasty. The name of Anang
Pal also is inscribed on the shaft, with
the date Samwat 1109:1052 A.D. The
remaining inscriptions are numerous
but unimportant. At 7 ft. 3 in. from
the pedestal there is a Nagri inscrip-
tion. At 4 ft. above the inscription is
a deep indentation, said to have been
made by a cannon-ball fired by the
troops of the Bhurtpur Rajah.
Tomb of Altamsh (who died in 1235
A.D-) outside the N.W. corner of the
great enclosure of the mosque. It is
of red sandstone. The main entrance


148 ROUTE 6.
India
BOMBAY TO DELHI
is to the E., but there are also openings
to the N. and S. The interior is in-
scribed with beautifully written pass-
ages of the Koran, and in the centre of
the W. side is a Kiblah of white marble
diseoloured with age. About 5 ft. from
the ground are several lines in Kufik.
The tomb is in the centre, and has
been greatly injured ; the top part is of
modern masonry. Cunningham says
that there is no roof, “but there is
good reason to believe that it was
originall covered by an overlapping
Hindu ome. A single stone of one
of the overlapping circles, with Arabic
letters on it, still remains. " Fergusson
says: “In addition to the beauty of
its details, it is interesting as being the
oldest tomb known to exist in India.”
The Alai Darwazah, 40 ft. to the
S.E. from the Kutb Minar, is the S.
entrance of the great or outer enclosure
to the mosque. This gateway was
built of red sandstone richly orna-
mented with patterns in low relief, in
1310 A.D., by 'Alau-din. Over three
of the entrances are Arabic inscriptions,
which give ’Alau-din’s name, and his
well-known title of Sikandar Sani,
the second Alexander, with the date
710 A.H. The building is a square.
On each side there is a lofty doorway,
with pointed horse-shoe arches. In
each corner there are two windows
closed by massive screens of marble
lattice-work. A few yards to the E.
stands the richly carved building, in
which is the tomb of Imam Zamin, or
rather of Imam Muhammad ’Ali, of
Mashhad. He is otherwise called
Saiyad Husain. He came to Delhi in
the reign of Sikandar, and himself built
the mosque as a tomb. He died in 944
A.H. = 1537 A.D., and left in his will
that he should be buried here. There
is an inscription in the Tughra char-
acter over the door. It is a small
domed building, about 18 ft. square, of
red standstone covered with chunam.
Alai Minar is at the distance of 435
ft. due N. from the Kutb. Just above
the base or platform, which is 4 ft. 3
in. high, the circumference is 259 ft.
The traveller must climb 8 ft. of wall
to get into this Minar. The whole
stands on a mound 6 ft. high. The

inner tower and outer wall are made
of large rough stones, very coarse
work, as the stones are put in anyhow.
The total height as it now stands is 70
ft. above the plinth, or 87 ft. above
the ground-level. A facing of red stone
would doubtless have been added. The
entrance is on the E., and on the N.
there is a window intended to light
the spiral staircase. Had this pillar
been finished it would have been
about 500 ft. high. ’Alau-din Khilji,
who built it, reigned from 1296 to
1316 A.D., and Cunningham thinks
that the building was stopped in
1312.
Metcalfe House was the tomb of
Muhammad Kuli Khan, the foster—
brother of Akbar. It has been en-
larged, and rooms have been added for
modern requirements. It is less than
a l m. from the Kutb Minar. Sir
T. Metcalfe made this his residence
during the four rainy months. There
were beautiful gardens in his time, and
fine stables to the S., of which only the
entrance pillars now remain.
Some other Buildings. —1 m. to the
N.E. is a solitary tower. N. of this
tower is the tomb of Akbar Khan,
brother of Adham and Muhammad
Kuli Khan. is 111. along a made road to
the S.W. are the tombs of Jamalu-
din and Kamalu-din, Maulvis; they
are white marble, covered with roofs,
and have side walls adorned with en-
caustic tiles and exquisite decorations.
The handsome mosque 0f Faizu ’llah
Khan is close to these.
The Police Rest-house is the Tomb
of Adham Khan; it lies S.W. of
the Kutb, and is 75 ft. high. This
Khan was put to death by Akbar for
killing the Emperor’s foster-brother.
Adham was thrown from the top of a
lofty building, and it happening that
his mother died the same day, the two
bodies were brought to Delhi and in-
terred here. Close by is a deep Well
into which the natives let themselves
fall from a height of 60 ft. above the
water, and then demand 8 annas each
from the spectators.
S.W. of the Kutb Minar is the
village of Maharoli. The tomb of
Kutbu-din Ushi is here, as are also


ROUTE 6.
149
OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
several tombs of kings after the time
of Aurangzib. 2 m. from this a
paved way is passed leading to the
Temple of Jog Maya, which is very
famous amongst Hindus, who refer it
to the very ancient date of Krishna’s
childhood. In fact, however, the
present building was erected in 1827.
There is no image in it. There is a
fair here every week. On the ri ht are
the ruins of the palace of Altamsi and
on the left the entrance gateway to a
garden of the king.
Tughlakabad.—This fort is upwards
of 4 m. to the E. of the Kutb. It
is on the left of the main road coming
from Delhi, and is built on a rocky
eminence from 15 to 30 ft. high.
Cunningham thus describes it (Arch.
Rep. vol. i. p. 212): “The fort may
be described with tolerable accuracy as
a half hexagon in shape, with three faces
of rather more than 2 m. in length,
and a base of 11; m., the whole circuit
being only 1 furlong less than 4 m. It
stands on a rocky height, and is built
of massivc blocks of stone, so large and
heavy that they must have been quar-
ried on the spot. The largest measured
was 14 ft. in length by 2 ft. 2 in., and 1
ft. thick, and weighed rather more than
6 tons. The short faces to the W., N.,
and E. are protected by a deep ditch,
and the long face to the S. by a. large
sheet of water, dry, except in the rainy
season, which is held up by an embank-
ment at the S.E. corner. On this side
the rock is scarped, and above it the
main walls rise to a mean height of 40
ft., with a parapet of 7 ft., behind which
rises another wall of 15 ft., the whole
height above the low ground being
upwards of 90 f ”
In the S.W. angle is the citadel,
which occupies about one-sixth of the
area. It contains the ruins of an exten-
sive palace. The ramparts are raised
on a line of domed rooms, which rarely
communicate with each other, and
which formed the quarters - of the
garrison. The walls slope rapidly in-
wards, as much as those of Egyptian
buildings, and are without ornament,
but the vast size, strength, and visible
solidity of the whole give to Tugh-
lakabad an air of stern and massive

grandeur that is both striking and im-
pressive. The fort has thirteen gates,
and there are three inner gates to the
citadel. It contains seven tanks, and
ruins of several large buildings, as the
Jumma Musjid, and the Birij Mandir.
The upper part is full of ruined houses,
but the lower appears never to have
been fully inhabited. Saiyad Ahmad
states that the fort was commenced in
1321, and finished in 1323, A.D.
The fine Tomb of Tughlak is outside
the S. wall of Tughlakabad, in the
midst of the artificial lake, and sur-
rounded by a pentagonal outwork,
which is connected with the fort by
a causeway 600 ft. long, supported on
27 arches. Mr. Fergusson says: “The
sloping walls and almost Egyptian
solidity of this mausoleum, combined
with the bold and massive towers of
the fortifications that surround it, form
a picture of a warrior’s tomb unrivalled
anywhere." The outer walls have a
slope of 2333 in. per foot; at base
they are 11% ft. thick, and at top 4 ft.
The exterior decoration of the tomb
itself depends chiefly on difference of
colour, which is effected by the free use
of bands and borders of white marble
inserted in the red sandstone. In plan
it is a square, and three of its four sides
have lofty archways, the space above
the doorway being filled with a white
marble lattice screen of bold pattern.
It is surmounted by a white marble
dome. A lesser dome within the same
pentagon covers, it is said, the tomb
of one of Tughlak’s ministers.
“Inside the mausoleum there are
three cenota hs, which are said to be
those of Tug lak Shah, his Queen, and
their son Juna Khan, who took the
name of Muhammad when he ascended
the throne."
A causeway runs to 'Adilabad, the
fort of Tughlak's son J una Khan, who
assumed the title of Muhammad Shah
bin Tughlak. He was a famous tyrant,
and is still spoken of as the Khuni
Sultan, “the bloody King.” Feroz
Shah, his successor, got acquittances
from all those he had wronged, and
put them in a chest at the head of the
tyrant’s tomb, that he might present
them when called to judgment.


1 50 ROUTE 7.
I mile
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
ROUTE 7
AHMEDABAD TO run Run»: or Goren,
WADnWAN, BHAUNAGAR, PALITANA,
GIRNAR, AND SOMNATH.
Leaving Ahmedabad (Rte. 6), 310 m.
from Bombay the Sabarmati is crossed
on a fine bridge, with a footway for
passengers alongside, and carrying the
rails for both broad and narrow gauges.
From, 314 m., Sabarmati (junc. sta.),
on N. bank of the river of that name,
the narrow gauge continues N. to Delhi
and Agra, whilst the broad gauge turns
W., and passing through a well-culti-
vated country, reaches at
350 m. Viramgam junc. sta., 10: a
walled town. Pop. 20,000. The Man-
sar tank dates from the end of the 11th
century. It is shaped like a shell, and
surrounded by flights of stone steps;
round the top of the steps runs a row
of small temples. The inlet is much
ornamented. The neighbourhood
abounds in black buck, grouse, and
all manner of water-fowl.
[From this place a branch line runs
N.W. passing at 17 m. Patri, D.B., a
small walled town with a Citadel ; and,
at 22 m., reaches Khai'aghoda, where
there are very extensive government salt-
pans on the edge of the Runn of Cutch.
In the dry season the Runn presents the
appearance of a hard, smooth bed of
dried mud, and may be ridden over
at any place. There is absolutely no
vegetation except on some small islands
which rise above the level of the salt
inundation ; the only living creatures
that inhabit it are some herds of wild
asses, which feed on the lands near its
shores at night, and retreat far into the
desert in the daytime. With the com-
mencement of the S.W. monsoon in
May, the salt water of the Gulf of Cutch
invades the Runn, and later in the
season many rivers from Rajputana
pour fresh water into it. The sea is
now encroaching rapidly on the Rnnn
at its 'unctiou with the Gulf of Cutch,
and t ere is reason to suppose that
serious changes of level are taking place.
The centre of the Runn is slightly
higher than the borders, and dries first.

The railway has many sidings extend-
ing into the Runn, to facilitate the
collection of the salt, which is stacked
at the station in very large quantities
under the custody of the Salt Customs
Department. Originally it was con-
sidered necessary to erect expensive roofs
over the salt stacks, but experience has
shown that this can be dispensed with.
The salt is evaporated by the heat
of the sun from brine brought up in
buckets from depths of 15 to 30 ft.
The mirage is beautiful in this neigh-
bourhood, and in the winter season the
flights of fiamingocs and other birds
are extraordinarily large. There are
grouse to be had in the neighbourhood]
390 m. Wadhwan junc. sta. D.B. To
the W. runs the Moral State Railway,
the exclusive property of the Morvi
state, constructed on 2} ft. gauge to
maintain communication with Morvi
and Rajkot. To the S. the line is con-
tinued by means of the Bhaunagar
Gondal Railway, a portion of the metre-
gauge system, which opens u a large
number of places in South attywar.
These railways are under a central
administration, but are the property of
the states through which they pass.
The Civil Statimt of Wadhwan, on
which the rly. sta. is built, is a
plot of land rented by Government in
perpetuity from the Wadhwan state,
for the location of the establishments
necessary for the administration of the
N.E. ortion of Kattywar. A small
town as sprung up close to the rail-
way station.
The only institution of special interest
in the place is the Talukdari School,
where the sons of Girassicw, or land-
owners, are educated when their parents
are unable to afford the heavy cost of
sending them to the Rajkumar or
Princes’ College at Rajkot. In many
cases elder brothers are placed at the
Rajkumar College, and the younger at
the Talnkdari School.
The Province of Kallywa'r, which the
traveller has now entered, exists under
circumstances quite exceptional. It
consists of 187 separate states, ranging
in extent from considerable tracts of
country, with chiefs enjoying great exe-


ROUTE 7.
151
WADHWAN CITY
cutive freedom, to mere village lands,
necessarily states only in name. Almost
without exception the capitals of these
states are places of interest, but there
is no space in this work to describe
them.
For purposes of administration the
Province is divided into four Prants, or
divisions.
The arduous task of administering
this Province is entrusted to a Political
Agent who resides at Rajkot, and has
assistants distributed through the
country.
Everywhere in Kattywar the travel-
ler will remark long lines of yellow,
or memorial stones, peculiar to this
Province, on which men are usually
represented as riding on a very large
horse, whilst women have a wheel below
them to indicate that they used a
carriage.
A woman's arm and hand indicate
here, as in other parts of India, a monu-
ment to a lady who committed sati.
Proceeding S. by the Bhaunagar
Gondal Railway, the river is crossed
close to the station.
At 3 m. Wadhwan City sta. is reached.
The town wall is of stone and in good
order. Towards the centre, on the N.
wall, is the ancient temple of Ranik
Devi. She was a beautiful girl, born
in the Junagadh territory when Sidh
Rajah was reigning at Patan, and was
betrothed to him. But Ra Khengar,
who then ruled Junagadh, carried her
off and married her, which caused a
deadly feud between him and Sidh Rajah,
whose troops marched to Junagadh.
thngar was betrayed by two of his
kinsmen, and was slain by Sidh Rajah
and his fortress taken. The conqueror
wanted to marry Ranik Devi, but she
performed sati, and Sidh Rajah raised
this temple to her memory.
The temple bears marks of extreme
old age, the stone bein much worn and
corroded, and all but t e tower is gone.
Inside is a stone with the effigy in
relief of Ranik Devi, and a smaller one
with a representation of Ambaji. N.
of this temple, and close to the city
wall, is a sati stone dated 1519. Close
to the Lakhupol Gate, is a well with

steps, ascribed to one Madhava, who
lived in 1294 A.D.
The Palace is near the centre of the
town, has four stories, and is 72 ft.
high. It stands in a. court facing the
entrance, on the right of which is a
building called the Mandwa, where
assemblies take place at marriages.
16 m. Limbdi sta. Chief town of
the cotton-producing state of that name.
Pop. 13,000. A well-cared-for place,
very handsome palace.
46 m. Botad sta.
Bhaunagar state.
72 m. Dhola junc. sta. (R.) Here the
line turns W. to Dhoraji and Porbandar,
and E. to Bhaunagar, passing at
85 m. a little N. of Songad, at: the
residence of the Assistant Political
Agent for the eastern portion of the
Province. '
Frontier of the
[Excursion to Palitana and the
Shetrunjee (or Satrunjaya) Hills.
(Arrangements for a conveyance can
be made, by applying to the Dep. Assist.
Polit. Agent at Songad. No public con-
veyances can be depended upon.)
Palitana, * about 15 m. S. of Songad,
the latter part of the road over a barren
country between low rocky hills, is the
residence of the chief, and is much en-
riched by the crowds of pilgrims who
reside in it during their visit to the
Holy Mountain, the site of some of the
most famous Jain temples in India.
The distance from Palitana to the
foot of Satrunjaya, or the Holy Moun-
tain, is 1% m. The road is level, with
a good water supply, and shaded by
trees. The ascent begins with a wide
flight of steps, guarded on either side
by a statue of an elephant. The hill-
side is in many places excessively steep,
and the mode of conveyance is the doll,
a seat or tray 18 in. square, slung from
two poles and carried by four men.
Few of the higher-class pilgrims are
able to make the ascent on foot, so there
is an ample supply of dolls and bearers.
“Palitana (the Holy Mountain) is
truly a city of temples, for, except‘a
few tanks, there is nothing else Within
the gates, and there is a cleanliness


152
India
ROUTE AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
withal, about every square and pass-
age, porch and hall, that is itself no
mean source of pleasure. The silence
too is striking. Now and then in the
mornings you hear a bell for a few
seconds, or the beating of a drum for as
short a time, and on holidays chants
from the larger temples meet your ear ;
but generally during the after-part of
the day the only sounds are those of
vast flocks of pigeons that fly about
spasmodically from the roof of one
temple to that of another. Paro nets
and squirrels, doves and ring oves
abound, and peacocks are occasionally
met with on the outer walls. The top
of the hill consists of two ridges, each
about 350 yds. long, with a valley be-
tween. Each of these ridges, and the
two large enclosures that fill the valley,
are surrounded by massive battlemented
walls fitted for defence. The buildings
on both ridges again are divided into
separate enclosures called tulcs, generally
containing one principal temple, with
varying numbers of smaller ones. Each
of these enclosures is rotected by strong
gates and walls, andp all gates are care,
fully closed at sundown.’
No attempt is made to describe the
shrines in detail; their general char-
acter is so often repeated that it would
only be possible' to do so with the aid
of profuse illustrations. The area en-
closed on the top is small enough for
any one of ordinary activity to see all
over it in the course of a two hours’ visit.
There is one gate leading into the
enclosure, but there are 19 gates within,
leading to the 19 chief Pagodas. Not
far from the Ram-pol (pol means gate)
is a resting-place used by persons of dis-
tinction, With a tolerable room sur-
rounded by open arches.
James Fergusson says :—
“The grouping together of these
temples into what may be called ‘ Cities
of Temples,’ is a peculiarity which the
J ains practised to a greater extent than
the followers of any other religion in
India. The Buddhists grouped their
stupas and viharas near and around
sacred spots, as at Sanchi, Manikyala,
or in Peshawur, and elsewhere; but
they were scattered, and each was sup-
posed to have a special meaning, or to

mark some sacred spot. The Hindus
also grouped their temples, as at Bhuvan-
eshwar or Benares, in great numbers
together; but in all cases because, so
far as we know, these were the centres of
a population who believed in the gods
to whom the temples were dedicated,
and wanted them for the purposes of
their worship. Neither of these re-
ligions, however, possesses such a group
of temples, for instance, as that at
Satrunjaya, in Guzerat. It covers a very
large space of ground, and its shrines
are scattered by hundreds over the sum-
mits of two extensive hills and in the
valley between them. The larger ones
are situated in tulcs, or separate enclos-
ures, surrounded by high fortified walls ;
the smaller ones line the silent streets.
It is a city of the gods, and meant for
them only, and not intended for the
use of mortals.
“ All the peculiarities of Jain archi-
tecture are found in a more marked
degree at Palitana than at almost any
other known place, and, fortunately for
the student of the style, extending
through all the ages during which it
flourished. Someofthetemplesareasold
as the 11th century, and they are spread
pretty evenly over all the intervening
time down to the present century."
James Burgess in his report gives the
following general description :—
“ At the foot of the ascent there are
some steps with many little canopies
or cells, 1% ft. or 3 ft. square, open
only in front, and each having in its
floor a marble slab carved with the
representation of the soles of two feet
(chamn), very flat ones, and generally
with the toes all of one length. A
little behind, where the ball of the
great toe ought to be, there is a
diamond-shaped mark divided into four
smaller figures by two cross lines, from
the end of one of which a curved line
is drawn to the front of the foot.
“The path is paved with rough
stones all the way up, only interrupted
here and there by regular flights of
steps. At frequent intervals also there
are rest-houses, more pretty at a dis-
tance than convenient for actual use,
but still deserving of attention. Hi h
up, we come to a small temple of t e


ROUTE 7.
153
EXCURSION TO VALABHIPUR
Hindu monkey god; Hanuman, the
image bedaubed with vermilion in
ultra-barbaric style. At this point the
path bifurcates to the right leading to
the northern peak, and to the left to
the valley between, and through it to
the southern summit. A little higher
up, on the former route, is the shrine
cf Hengar, a Mussulman pir, so that
Hindu and Moslem alike contend for
the representation of their creeds on
this sacred hill of the Jains.
“On reaching the summit of the
mountain, the view that presents itself
from the top of the walls is magnificent
in extent; a splendid setting for the
unique picture. To the E. the pros-
pect extends to the Gulf of Cambay
near Gogo and Bhaunagar ; to the N. it
is bounded by the granite range of
Sihore and the Chamaardi peak; to
the N.W. and W. the plain extends as
far as the eye can reach. From W.
to E., like a silver ribbon across the
foreground to the S., winds the Satrun-
jaya river, which the eye follows until
it is lost between the Talaja and Kho-
kara Hills in the S.W.]
[Excursion to Valabhipur.
The antiquarian who is not pressed
for time may care from Songad to visit
the site of the ancient city of Vala-
bhipur, which is nearly identical with
the modern town of Walah, and is 12 in.
distant by road. The authorities at
Songad will always arrange the journey.
Valabhipur was perhaps as old as Rome,
and was the capital of all this part of
India. The present town (under 5000
inhab.) is the capital of one of the
small Kattywar states. It has been
very much neglected. There are scarcely
any architectural remains at Walah,
but old foundations are discovered, and
sometimes coins, copper plates, mud
seals, beads, and household images have
been found in some abundance. The
ruins can be traced over a large area of
jungle]
Resuming the journey from Songad
to Bhaunagar,
90 m. Sihore sta. (Sehore), D.B.
This was at one time the capital of
this state. The town, well situated

1% m. S. of the rly., has some interest-
ing Hindu Temples.
103 m. Bhaunagar.* The city (of
50,000 inhab., founded 1723) stands
on a tidal creek that runs into the
Gulf of Cambay. The head of the
Gulf above this creek is silting up so
rapidly that it is ver difficult to main-
tain the necessary epth of water for
native trading vessels and coasting
steamers. The Bhaunagar state has
from its first connection with the
British Government been administered
by men of intelligence, and the town
will be found a most pleasing sample of
the results of native Indian government
going hand in hand with European
progress. The staple export is cotton.
There are no interesting ruins, but
abundance of very handsome modern
buildings on Indian models, water
works, reservoirs, and gardens ; and at
the port will be seen an intelligent
adoption of modern mechanical im-
provements.
The traveller, if he proposes to visit
J unagadh, Somnath, Porbandar, or any
places in the W., must change at Dhola
jmw. There is nothing to detain him
until he reaches
152 m. (from Wadhwan), Jetalsar
j unc. sta. (R.) This place is the residence
of the Assist. Political Agent for the S.
or Somth division of the Province of
Kattywar. Here the line branches (1)
S. to Verawal, (2) W. to Po'rbandar, and
(3) a road turns N. to Rajkot, thence
by rail to Va-nka'ner and W adhwan.
(1) Jetalsar to Verawal (mil).
16. m. (from J etalsar), Junagadh (the
old fort) sta., :0! D. B., W. of the town,
opposite a modern gateway, called the
Rwy Gate; the capital of the state, and
the residence of the Nawab. Pop. 30,000.
Situated as it is under the Girnar and
Datar Hills, it is one of the most pic~
turesque towns in India, while in anti-
uity and historical interest it yields to
gew. The scenery from the hills around
is most pleasing, and the place has
attractions wanting in most ancient
Indian towns, which, as a rule, are situ-
ated in uninteresting plains. There is
a great deal of game in Kattywar, and


154 ROUTE 7.
India
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
specially in the Gir, the large unculti-
vated tract to the S.E. of Junagadh;
but the Gir is very unhealthy in the
early part of the autumn, and again at
the beginning of the rains.
The fortifications of the present town
were all built by the Mohammedans
after the capture of the place by Sultan
Mahmud Begadha, of Guzerat, about
1472. The Nawab's Palace is a fine
modernised building. In front of it is
a good circle of shops called the Mahabat
Circle.
The Tombs of the Nawabs are highly
finished buildings. Fergusson says :
“ There is a cemetery at J unagadh
where there exists a group of tombs all
erectedwithin this century, somewithin
the last 20 or 30 years, which exhibit,
more nearly than any others I am ac-
quainted with, the forms towards which
the style was tending. The style is not
without a certain amount of elegance
in detail. The tracery of the windows
is executed with precision and appropri-
ateness." Entering the enclosure by
the N. gate, the tomb of Bahadur Khan
II. is in front on the 1., next to it the
tomb of Hamed Khan II. , and on its
1. that of Ladli Bu, a lady whose mar-
riage, and the influence she gained,
caused no slight difliculty to this state,
and no little trouble in the Political
Agency. Beside these is the tomb of
Nawab Mohobat Khan, in Saracenic
style, and finely carved. 1}, m. beyond
the N. gate of the town is the Sakai“
Bagh, a well laid-out garden that be-
longs to the Vazir. There is a two-
storied villa, surrounded bya moat full
of water. About 50 yds. from the house
is a menagerie, in which are panthers,
deer, etc. In a still finer garden at the
S. of the town, the Sudar Bagh, are
kept a number of lions and lionesses
from the Gir forest. There are no
tigers in the Kattywar peninsula, but
up to the middle of the present century
lions inhabited all the large jungles,
and were shot in theOhoteyla Hills E. of
Rajkot. Now the animal is confined to
the Gir. The lion is in no way inferior
to the African species, although the
mane is not so large. The Gir lien is
not a man-eater usually, but Col. J. \V.
\Vatson has heard of one or two well-

authenticated instances of his killing
men.
The soft sandstone which everywhere
underlies Junagadh is an interesting
study. Formed apparently in very
shallow water, it shows on all sides
complicated lines of stratification. The
facility with which it is worked may be
one reason why it has been largely
excavated into cave - dWellings in
Buddhist times.
The Caves—In the N. part of the
town enclosure, near the old telegraph
office, is the group called the Khapra,
Khoclr'a. These caves appear to have
been a monastery, and bear the cogniz-
ance of the then ruling race, a. winged
griflin or lion. They appear to have
been two or three stories high. They
are, however, excavated in good building
stone, and the modern quarrymen have
been allowed to encroach and injure
them ; the lower ones have never been
systematically cleared out. The most
interesting caves of all are situated in
the Uparkot, about 50 yds. N. of the
great mosque. They are now closed by
an iron gate. They consist of two
stories, the lower chambers being 11
ft. high. Mr. Burgess says: “Few
bases could be found anywhere to excel
in beauty of design and richness of
carving those of the six principal
pillars. ” Inside the Wagheshwari Gate,
through which the Girnar is approached,
are the caves known by the name of
Bawa Piam, a comparatively modern
Hindu ascetic who is said to have resided
in them.
The Uparkot, on the E. side of the
city, used as a jail until 1858, is
now practically deserted. It was the
citadel of the old Hindu princes, and is
probably the spot from whence J unagadh
derives its name. Permission to visit
it must be asked. Without presenting
any very special features to describe, the
Uparkot is one of the most interesting of
old forts. The parapets 0n the E.,where
the place is commanded by higher
ground, have been raised at least three
times to give cover against the in-
creasingly long range of proj ectiles. The
views from the walls are delightful.
Here were quartered the lieutenants of
the great Asoka (270 13.0.), and, later,


ROUTE 7.
155
J UNAGADH—GIRNAR
those of the Gupta kings. The entrance
is beyond the town, in the W. wall, and
consists of three gateways, one inside
the other. The fort walls here are from
60 to 70 ft. high, forming a massive
cluster of buildings. The inner gate-
way, a beautiful specimen of the Hindu
Toran, has been topped by more recent
Mohammedan work, but the general
effect is still good and, with the
approach cut through the solid rock,
impressive. 0n the rampart above
the gate is an inscription of Manda-
lika V. dated 1450. Proceeding 150
yds. to the left, through a grove of
sitaphal (custard apples), you come to
a huge 10 in.-bore cannon of bell-metal,
17 ft. long and 4 ft. 7 in. round at the
mouth. This gun was brought from
Dio, where it was left by the Turks.
There is an Arabic inscri tion at the
muzzle, which may be trans ated: “The
order to make this cannon, to be used
in the service of the Almighty, was
given by the Sultan of Arabia and
Persia, Sultan Sulaiman, son of Salim
Khan. May his triumph be glorified,
to punish the enemies of the State and
of the Faith, in the capital of Egypt,
1531." At the breech is inscribed,
“The work of Muhammad, the son of
Hamzah." Another large cannon called
Chudanal, also from Dio, in the southern
portion of the fort, is 13 ft. long, and has
a muzzle 14 in. diameter. Near this
is the Jumma Musjid, evidently
constructed from the materials of a
Hindu temple. Mr. Burgess says it
was built by Mahmud Begadha. One
plain, slim minaret remains standing,
but the mosque is almost a complete
ruin. The ascent to the terraced roof
is by a good staircase outside.
The Tomb of Nuri Shah, close to the
mos us, is ornamented with fluted
cupo as, and a most peculiar carving
over the door. There are two Wells in
the Uparkot—the Adi Olmdi, said to
have been built in ancient times by
the slave girls of the Chudasama rulers,
is descended by a long flight of steps
(the sides of the descent show the most
remarkable overlappings and changes
of lie in the strata, for which alone it
is worth a visit to any one with geo-
logical tastes); and the Naughan, cut

to a great depth in the soft rock, and
with a wonderful circular staircase.
There is a fine dharmsala belonging
to the goldsmiths near the Waghesh-
wari Gate.
The mountain Girnar is the great
feature of Junagadh, and the Jain
temples upon it are amongst the most
ancient in the country. It is 3666 ft.
high, and is one of the most remarkable
mountains in India. From the city of
J unagadh only the top of it can be seen,
as it has in front of it lower hills, of
which Jogniya, or Lose Pawadi, 2527
ft., Lakshman Tekri, Bensla, 2290 ft.
high, and Datar, 2779 ft. high, are the
principal. Girnar was anciently called
Raivata or Ujjayanta, sacred amongst
the Jains to Nimnath, the 22d Tir-
thankar, and doubtless a place of
pilgrimage before the days of Asoka,
270 B.C.
The traveller, in order to reach Girnar,
will pass through the Wagheshwari
Gate, which is close to the Uparkot. At
about 200 yds. from the gate, to the
right of the road, is the Temple of
Wagheshwari, which is joined to the
road by a causeway about 150 yds.
long. In front of it is a modern temple,
three stories high, very ugly, fiat-
roofed, and quite plain. About a fur-
long beyond this is a stone bridge, and
just beyond it the famous Asoka
Stone. It is a round boulder of
granite, measuring roughly 20 ft. x 30
ft., and is covered with inscriptions,
which prove on examination to be 14
Edicts of Asoka (270 3.0.) Nearly
identical inscriptions have been found
at Dhauli, and near Pcshawur. The
character is Pali.
On leaving Asoka’s Stone, cross the
handsome bridge over the Sonarokha,
which here forms a fine sheet of water,
then pass a number of temples, at
first on the 1. bank of the river and
then on the rt., where Fakirs go about
entirely naked, to the largest of the
temples dedicated to Damodar, a name
of Krishna, from Dam, a rope, because
at this spot his mother in vain at-
tempted to confine him with a rope
when a child. The reservoir at this
place is accounted very sacred. The
path is now through a wooded valley,


156 ROUTE 7.
India
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
with some fine Indian fig trees. Near
a cluster of them is an old shrine called
Bhavanath, a name of Shiva. There
are a number of large monkeys here,
who come, on being called. Unless
the traveller be a very good climber,
he will do well to get into a deli, for
continues for two-thirds of the ascent,
and may be divided into three parts;
at the end. of the first the first rest-
house, Chodia-paraba, is reached, 480
ft. above the plain. The second halt-
ing-place is Dholi-deri, 1000 ft. above
the plain.
There the ascent becomes









Temple of Nimnath, Girnar.
which he will pay 3 or 4 rs. according
to tariff. A long ridge runs up from
the W., and culminates in a rugged
scarped rock, on the top of which are
the temples. Close to the Mandir is a
well called the Chada-ni-wao. The
paved way begins just beyond this and
more difiicult, winding under the face
of the precipice to the third rest-house,
1400 ft. up. So far there is nothing
very trying to any one with an ordin-
arily steady brain. But after that the
path turns to the right along the edge
of a precipice, and consists of steps out










,J'
l





\ .
//”’\‘.;
71/11! ' i
-' all? » ' :







1. Wagheshwari Gate. 12. Maliparab Khund.
2. Asoka’s Stone. 13. Datatari.
3. Bridge. 14. Hathi pagla Khund.
4. Temple of Damodar. 15. Sesawan Temple.
5. ,, ,, Savanath. 16. Hanmandhara Khund and Temple.
6. ,, ,, Bhavanath. 17. Kamandal Temple.
7. Chadd-ni-wao Well. 18. Sakri ambli.
S. Wagheshwari Temple. 19. Malbela.
9. Bhairo-Thumpa. 20. Surai Khund.
10. Gaomuki Temple. 21. Sarkharia.
11. Amba Deva Temple. 22. Bawaha Madhi.

To face p. 150.





noon: 7.
157
JUNAGADH—GIRNAR
in the rock, and so narrow that the
deli grazes the scarp, which rises per-
pendicularly 200 ft. above the travel-
ler. On the right is seen the lofty
mountain of Datrw, covered with low
jungle. At about 1500 ft. there is a
stone dharmsala, and from this there
is a fine view of the rock called
Bhairo-Thumpa, which means “the
terrific leap. ” It was so called because
devotees used to cast themselves from
its top, falling 1000 ft. or more.
At 2370 ft. above J unagadh the gate
of the enclosure known as the Deva
Kota, or Ra Khengar’s Palace, is reached.
On entering the gate, the large enclosure
of the temples is on the left, while to
the right is the old granite temple of
Man Sing, Bhoja Rajah of Catch, and
farther on the much larger one of
Vastupala (see below). Built into the
wall on the left of the entrance is an
inscription in Sanscrit. Some 16 Jain
temples here form a sort of fort on the
ledge at the top of the great cliff, but
still 600 ft. below the summit. The
largest temple is that of Nimnath (or
Neminatha), standing in a quadrangular
court 195 x 130 ft. It consists of two
halls (with two porches, called by the
Hindus mandapams), and the shrine,
which contains a large black image of
Nimnath, the 22d Tirthankar, with
massive gold ornaments and jewels.
Round the shrine is a passage with
many images in white marble. Be-
tween the outer and inner halls are
two shrines. The outer hall has two
small raised platforms paved with slabs
of yellow stone, covered with repre-
sentations of feet in pairs, which repre-
sent the 2452 feet of the first disciples.
On the W. of this is a porch overhang-
ing the perpendicular scarp. On two
of the pillars of the mandapam are in-
scriptions dated 1275, 1281, and 1278,
—dates of restoration, when Fergusson
says it was covered with a coating of
chunam, and “adorned with coats of
whitewash " within. The enclosure is
nearly surrounded inside by 70 cells,
each enshrining a marble image, with
a covered passage in front of them
lighted by a perforated stone screen.
The principal entrance was originally
on the E. side of the court, but it is
'to Panchabai.

now closed, and the entrance from the
court, in Khengar’s Palace, is that now
used. There is a passage leading into
a low dark temple, with granite pillars
in lines. Opposite the entrance is a
recess containing two large black im-
ages ; in the back of the recess is a lion
rampant, and over it a crocodile in
has-relief. Behind these figures is a
room from which is a descent into a
cave, with a large white marble image,
an object of the most superstitious
veneration by the Jains, which the
priests usually try to conceal. It has
a slight hollow in the shoulder, said to
be caused by water dro ping from the
ear, whence it was cal ed Amtjhera,
“nectar drop.” In the N. porch are
inscriptions which state that in Samwat
1215 certain Thakors completed the
shrine, and built the Temple of Ambika.
After leaving this, there are three temples
to the left. That on the S. side contains
a colossal image of Rishabha Deva,
the 1st Tirthankar, exactly like that
at Satrunjaya, called Bhim-Padam.
On the throne of this image is a
slab of yellow stone carved in 1442,
with figures of the 24 Tirthankars.
Opposite this temple is a modern one
W. of it is a large
temple called Malakavisi, sacred to
Parshwanath. N. again of this is
another temple of Parshwanath, which
contains a large white marble image
canopied by a cobra, whence it is called
Sheshphani, “an arrangement not un-
frequently found in the S. but rare in
the N.” (F ergusson). It bears a date
=1803. The last temple to the N. is
Kumaxapalas, which has a long open
portico on the W. , and appears to have
been destroyed by the Mohammedans,
and restored in 1824 by Hansraja J etha.
These temples are along the W. face of
the hill, and are all enclosed. Outside
to the N. is the Bhima Kunda, a tank
70 ft. X 50 ft., in which Hindus bathe.
“Immediately behind the temple of
Neminatha is the triple one erected by
the brothers Tejpala and Vastupala.
(built 1177)." The Inn is that Of 3
temples joined toget er. The shrine
has an image of Mallinath, the 19th
Tirthankar. Farther N. is the temple
of Samprati Rajah. This temple is


158 acorn 7.
I ndia,
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
probably one of the oldest on the hill,
date 1158. Samprati is said to have
ruled at Ujjain in the end of the 3d
cent. 3.0., and to have been the son
of Kunala, Asoka’s third son. S. of
this, and 200 ft. above the Jain temples,
is the Gaumukha. Shrine, near a plenti-
ful spring of water. From it the crest
of the mountain (3330 ft.) is reached by
a steep flight of stairs. Here is an
ancient temple of Amba Mata, which
is much resorted to by newly—married
couples of the Brahman caste. The





front. To the rt. is a stone platform
surrounding an unusually fine mango
tree, with a tank just beyond, and the
shrine of Datar, a building 30 ft. high
with a fluted cone at top. Here it is
necessary to take off one’s shoes. The
shrine and the whole place are very
attractive.
There is a Leper Asylum near the
Datar Temple for 100 lepers of both
sexes, built at the expense of the Vazir
Sahib Bahu-ud-din. H.R.H. Prince
Albert Victor laid the foundation-stone








Temple of Tejpala and Vastupala, Giruar.
bride and bridegroom have their clothes
tied together, and attended by their
male and female relations, adore the
goddess and present cocoa-nuts and
other offerings. This pilgrimage is
supposed to procure for the couple a
long continuance of wedded bliss. To
the E., not far 011', are the 3 rocky
spires of the Goraknath, the N imnath
or Guru-dattasu, and the Kalika Peaks.
S. E. of the Verawal Gate of Jun-
agadh is the Shrine of Jamial Shah or
Datar. After passing under a low arch
near the city, the house of the Mujawir
or attendant of the shrine is seen in

in 1890. Above it, 4 m. in S. E. direc-
tion, is the Datar peak (2779 ft.)
On the summit of the hill is a small
shrine, and a very beautiful view. The
hill is held sacred by Mohammedans
and Hindus alike, and is supposed to
have a beneficial effect on lepers, who
repair to it in considerable numbers.
61 n1. Verawal sta. :0: The railway
terminus is on the W. side of the city,
close to the walls, and about i m. from
the lighthouse at the landing-place.
This is a very ancient sea-port, and
probably owes its existence to its more
celebrated neighbour Pata'n. Somnath.


160 ROUTE 7.
I ndia,
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
the road, to the rt. is a vast burial-
ground, with thousands of tombs, and
patios. There are also buildings which
well deserve examination after the tra-
veller has seen the city. The J unagadh,
or W. Gate, by which Patan is entered,
is a triple gate, and is clearly of Hindu
architecture. The centre part of the
first division of the gateway is very
ancient, and is shown to be Hindu by
the carving of two elephants on either
side pouring water over Lakshmi ; but
the figure of the goddess is almost
obliterated.
After passing the second gate on the
left, is the W. wall of a mosque of the
time of Mahmud. There is no inscrip-
tion in it, but its antiquity is so certain
that the Nawab has assigned the
revenue of three villages for keeping it
in order. After passing the third
portal of the Junagadh Gateway, there
are four stones on the right hand, of
which two have Guzerati, and two San-
scrit inscriptions. Driving on straight
through the bazaar, which is very
narrow, and has quaint old houses on
either side, the Jumma Musjid is
reached. The entrance is by a porch,
which has been a mandir in front of a
Hindu temple.
The most interesting part of this very
ancient building is, that in each of the
four corners is a carving of two human
figures, with the B0 tree between them.
A low door in the W. side of the porch
leads into the court of the mosque,
which is much ruined ; it has been
deserted for 25 years, and inhabited by
Moslem fishermen, who dry their fish
in it.
To reach the 01d Temple of Som-
nath it is necessary to drive through
the bazaar of Patan and turn to the
right. The temple is close to the sea.
Fergusson considers that it was prob-
ably never a large temple, but adds that
the dome of its porch, which measures
33 ft. across, is as large as any we know
of its age. The interior of the porch is
even now in its ruins very striking.
“ From what fragments of its sculptured
decorations remain, they must have
been of great beauty, quite equal to
anything we know of this class of their
age. ” It was, no doubt, like the temple

of N imnath, on Girnar, surrounded by
an enclosure which would make it a
strong place. Now the temple stands


up ______
Ls
@ (4%









Temple of Somnath.
alone, stripped even of its marble ; like,
but superior to, the temples at Dablioi
and Lakkundi. There are three en-
trances to the porch, and a corridor
round the central octagonal space,
which is covered by the great dome.
There are four smaller domes. The
dome in the centre is supported by
eight pillars and eight arches, and no
wood seems to have been'used. The
pillar on the right hand, looking from
the E., next but one before reaching
the adytum, has an inscription, which
is all illegible but the date, Samwat
1697:1640 AJ). The walls on the
N., S., and W. sides have each two
handsomely carved niches, in which
there have been idols.
The temple is said to have been first
built of gold by Somraj, then of silver
by Ravana, then of wood by Krishna,
and then of stone bthimdeva. Though
three times destroyed by the Moham-
medans, it was nevertheless three times
rebuilt, and so late as 1700 A.D. was
still a place of great sanctity. But in
1706 Aurangzih ordered its destruction,


ROUTE 7.
161
PATAN SOMNATH
and there seems every reason to believe
that this order was carried out.
Sultan Mahmud’s celebrated expedi-
tion was in 1024 A.D.; he seems to have
marched with such rapidity, by way of
Guzerat, that the Hindu rajahs were
unable to collect their forces for its
defence. Thence he seems to have
marched upon Somnath, and after a
sharp fight for two days to have con-
quered both the city and the temple.
Immense spoil was found in the temple,
and after a short stay Mahmud returned
to Ghazni. It was on this occasion
that he is supposed to have carried off
the famous so-called “Gates of Som-
nath,” now in the fort at Agra. The
traveller may at once dismiss from his
mind as a fable that the gates brought
from Ghazni to Agra in Lord Ellen-
borough's time were taken from Som-
nath. They are of Saracenic design,
and are constructed of Himalayan cedar
(seeAgra).1 Elliotsaysthat10,000popu-
lated villages were held by the temple as
an endowment, and that 300 musicians
and 500 dancing-girls were _attached to
it. There were also 300 barbers to shave
the heads of the pilgrims.
The confluence of the Three rivers,
or Triveni, to the E. of the town, has
been, no doubt, a sacred spot from
times of remote antiquity. To reach
this the traveller will proceed through
the E. gate, called the Nana, or “small,”
also the Sangam, or “confluence gate.”
It has pilasters on either side, and on
the capitals figures are represented issu-
ing out of the mouths of Makars, a
fabulous crocodile, which in Hindu
mythology is the emblem of the God
of Love. About a i m. E. of the gate,
outside it, you come to a pool on the
right hand, called the Kund, and a
small building on the left called the
Adi Tirth, and then to a temple and
the Tirth of Triveni, where people are
always bathing. The stream here is
from 200 to 300 yds. broad, and runs
into the sea. N. of this, about 200
yds. oil“, is the Suraj Mandir, or temple
to the sun, half broken down by Mah-
mud, standing on high ground, and
wondrously 01 and curious. Over the
1 There is a beautiful illustration of them
in Yule's Marco Polo.
[India]

door of the adytum are groups of figures,
with a tree between each two. Inside
the adytum is a round red mark for
the sun, not ancient; and below is a
figure of a goddess, also coloured red.
On the W. and S. outer walls are masses
of carving much worn. At the bottom
there is a frieze of Keshuri lions, that
is, lions with elephants' trunks. This
temple is probably of the same age as
that of Somnath. About 250 yds. to
the W. is a vast tomb, quite plain ; and
below, in a sort of quarry, is a subter-
raneous temple, which is called Ahdi
Shah’s. The same name is given to
a mosque with six cupolas to the N.,
which has been a Hindu temple.
Returning from this, and re-entering
the Nana Gate, proceed 200 yds. to the
N.W., where is the temple built by
Ahalya Bai, to replace the ancient Som-
nath. Below the temple is another,
reached by descending 22 steps. The
dome of this subterraneous building is
supported by 16 pillars. The temple
itself is 13 ft. sq. It is of no interest
except on account of its builder, Ahalya
Bai.
Returning towards Verawal, about i
m. outside the Patan Gate is the Mai
Puri. which in ancient times was a
temple to the sun. The carving of
this building is exquisite, and in better
preservation than that of the temple of
Somnath. In the centre of the build-
ing is an enclosure 6 ft. sq., in which
Mai Puri, “the Perfect M other,” is
buried. A legend is told about her,
which alleges that she brought about
the siege of Somnath by Mahmud.
The temple or mosque, as the Moslems
have made it, contains a mass of old
Hindu carving, still beautiful though
mutilated. This temple is a perfect
gem, and ought to be visited by every
traveller. About 300 yds. to the E. is
a plain stone enclosure on the right of
the road, in which are the tombs of
J’afar and Muzaffar, quite plain, but
with pillars 3 ft. high at the headstone.
Not far from the Mai Puri is the tomb
of Silah Shah. There is a curious stand
for lamps here carved in stone, in the
shape of a crown. To the S.E., about
50 yds., is the tomb of Mangroli Shah,
which has been restored. Before reach-
M


162 ROUTE 7.
India
AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
ing the shrine you pass through the
porch of an ancient Hindu temple.
Not far from this spot is the Bhiol
Bhaujan Pagoda on the sea-shore,
locally known as Bhidiyo, very old,
perhaps of the 14th century. It is 60
ft. high, and forms a ood mark for
sailors. To the E. of t e pagoda is a
clear space, where Englishmen coming
from Bajkot pitch their tents.
Many coasting steamers call at Vera-
wal, and a traveller can go by sea to
Bombay or to Porbandar, Cutch, or
Karachi. If he desires to return by
land, he had better retrace his steps to
J etalsar junc.
(2) Jctalsar to Porbandar (rail).
16 m. (from Wadhwan), Dhoraji,
an important commercial town, pop.
16,000, and, at
231 m., Porbandar terminal sta.,
D. B., E. of the town, the capital of the
state of that name, and a place of some
interest. Itisidentifiedwith theancient
city of Sudampnri, known to readers of
the Bhagaoala. Near this is an old
temple of Sudama. The line is con-
tinued for goods traffic along the shore
to the creek W. of the town, where it ter-
minates in a wharf. Here the traveller
has reached a very old-world corner,
not recommended to visitors in a hurry,
but very interesting to those who have
leisure, or to sportsmen. The coasting
steamers between Bombay and Kar-
achi touch at Porbandar.
[The places of interest in the neigh-
bourhood are—
Shm'mgar, 9 in. N.W. of Porbandar,
believed to have been the first capital
of the J ethwa Rajputs. There are re-
mains of an ancient temple of the sun.
Miam', a very ancient seaport 18 m.
N.W. of Porbandar.
Chaya, a village 2 m. S. E. of Por-
bandar, was once the capital. The old
palace is still there.
Bileshwar, 8 m. N. of Ranawao sta.,
a small village E. of the Barda Hills.
There is here a fine temple of consider-
able antiquity, andin good preservation.
Gumlih, or Bhumli, is about 12 m.
N. of Bileshwar, or 24 m. from Por-
bandar by the road passing W. of the

Barda Hills. This place is now absol-
utely ruined and deserted ; it was the
capital of the Jethwas when at the
zenith of their power. It lies in a
gorge of the Barda Hills ; the ruins are
of the 11th or 12th century. The most
interesting remains are the Lakhota, the
Ganesh Dehra, the Rampol, the J eta
Wao, and the group of temples near the
Son Kansari Tank, and someruinson the
summit of the Abapura Hill. It was
at one time a large flourishing city. It
is about 4 m. S. of Bhanwar, a fort be-
longing to the Jam of Nawanagar.
40 In. S.E. from Porbandar, at Mad-
havapur, Krishna is said to have been
married. There is an important temple
dedicated to him there]
(3) Jctalsar l0 Rajlcot (road), thence rail
to Wadhwan.
If the traveller returns by rail to
Jetalsar junc., he is there just 50 n1.
S. of Rajkot, the capital of the Province.
There is a good road all the way. At
26 m. Gondal is the capital of that
state, and the residence of the chief.
This is a cheerful, well cared-for town,
with many handsome temples. The
public ofices are situated outside the
town on open sites surrounded by gar-
dens. The courtyard of the palace is
very handsome.
50 m. Rajkot sta.,* a civil and
military station, the residence of the
Political Agent, and the headquarters
of the administration.
The most important public work in
Rajkot is the Kaisar-i-H'ind Brulge
over the Aji river, built by Mr. S. R.
Booth, whose name is connected with
nearly every important modern build-
ing in the Province. The total cost
of the bridge was 117,500 rs., of which
the Chief of Bhaunagar paid all but
7500 rs. The munificent donor of this
bridge was educated at the Rajkumar
College, on which he bestowed 100,000
rs. to build a wing and a residence for
the principal, and further contributed
50,000 rs. to the Endowment Fund.
The Rajlcumar College deserves a
visit, as the place where the young
princes of Kattywar are educated. It
was opened in 1870. On the ground


ROUTE 8.
163
REWARI TO FEROZEPUR
floor is a fine hall, which gives access to
the class-rooms. Some good portraits
hang on the walls. Alon both fronts
is a massive verandah, an over the E.
entrance a rectangular tower 55 ft.
high. The entrance is on the W. , and
is flanked by two circular towers. The
N. and S. wings contain 32 suites of
bedrooms and sitting-rooms, bath-
rooms and lavatories. To the W. of
the N. wing is a chemical laboratory,
and on the opposite side a gymnasium
and racquet-court. N. of the labora-
tory are extensive stables. The young
princes, besides playing all manly
games, are drilled as a troop of cavalry.
W. of the quadrangle are the houses of
the Principal and vice-principal, with
extensive gardens. S. of the buildings
is the cricket-field of 19 acres. The
college was founded by Col. Keatinge.
The High School was opened in J anu-
ary 1875. It cost 70,000 rs. , which were
given by the Nawab of J unagadh. In
the centre is a fine hall.
N.E. of Rajkot are the Jubibe W ater
IVorks, which are for the supply of the
town.
An unbridged and unmetalled road
(impassable in wet weather) leads to
(54 m.) Nawanagar or J amnugure,
capital of the state of that name, whence
Mandel can be reached by native craft.
Small steamers occasionally'ply between
Beoi, near N awanagar, and Bomba. .
The best way to reach Mandvi wou d
be by steamer direct from Bombay.
Steamers call about twice a week.
From Rajkot the Morvi Stale Rail-
way (a narrow gauge (2'5) line) runs
N. E. to Wadhwan, via Vankaner junc.
sta. (25 m.) This is the capital of a
small state and the residence of the
chief. The country around is undulat-
. ing, rising into hills W. and S. of the
town. From Vankaner the line runs E.
to (51 m.) Wadhwan, where it joins the
B. B. and C.I. Railway, leaving the tra-
veller at the spot where he commenced
his travels in Kattywar (see above)—
Wadhwan to Ahmedabad is 80 m.
A line is under construction from
Viramgam to Melisana, which will save
a considerable distance to travellers
going towards Delhi, and obviate a
break of gauge.

ROUTE 8
REWARI r0 anoznrun
Rewari junc. sta. is 52 m. S.W. of
Delhi, described in Rte. 6.
74 m. Hansi sta., D.B., a modern town
of 13,000 inhabitants, lies on the \V.
J umna Canal. It is said to have been
founded by Anang Pal Tuar, King of
Delhi, and was long the capital of
Hariana. There are ruins of an ancient
Citadel and some remains of gateways,
and a high brick wall, with bastions
and loop-holes. This old town has no
connection with the new, which, like
many others in this district, owes its
origin to the establishment of a secure
British rule, and the opening up of
the country by railways. The canal
which flows by it is fringed with hand-
some trees. In 1783 it was desolated
by famine, but in 1795 the famous ad-
venturer George Thomas fixed his head-
quarters at Hansi, which forthwith
began to revive. In 1802 British rule
was established, and a cantonment was
fixed here in which a considerable
force, chiefly of local levies, was sta-
tioned. In 1857 these troops mutinied,
murdered all the Europeans they could
lay hands upon, and plundered the
country. When peace was restored the
cantonmentwas abandoned. At Toshan,
23 m. to the S.W., are some ancient
inscriptions. They are cut in the rock
half the way up, as is a tank which is
much visited by pilgrims, who come
from great distances to the yearly fair
there.
89 m. Hissar sta. (R.), D.B. Pop.
14,000. The IV. Jumna C'anal made by
the Emperor Feroz Shah crosses from E.
to W. In 1826 it was restored by the
British. In this place as well as in
Hansi the local levies revolted during
the Mutiny of 1857, but before Delhi
was taken, a body of Sikh levies, aided
by contingents from Patiala and Bic-
kanur, under General Van Cortlandt,
utterly routed them.
As at Hansi, so here the modern
town owes its present prosperity to a
settled rule and to the introduction of


164 ROUTE 8.
I ndia
REWARI TO FEROZEPUR
railways. Like many other colonies, it
has been formed at the foot of an old
ruined town, which lies to the S. of
it. It was founded in 1354 A.D. by
the Emperor Feroz Shah, whose favour-
ite residence it became. At Hissar
there is a Government cattle-farm
managed by a European superintendent,
and attached to it is an estate of 43,287
acres for pasturage.
The District of Hissar borders on the
Rajputana Desert, and is itself little
better than a desolate waste sparsely
scattered over with low bushes. The
water-supply is very inadequate, the
average rainfall being only 5 in. The
chief stream is the Ghuggar, which,
with scant verdure along its banks,
winds through the district like a green
riband. The Feroz Shah Canal passes
through a part of the district, and
further irrigation schemes are contem-
plated.
140 m. Sires. sta. Pop. 14,000.
The town and fort are supposed to have
been founded by one Rajah Saras, about
the middle of the 6th century. A
Muslim historian mentions it as Sarsuti.
A great cattle-fair is held here in
August and September, at which 150,000
head of cattle are exposed for sale.
187 In. Bhatinda junc. sta. (1400
inhab.) From this place a railway
runs E. to Patiala and Rajpura (Rte. 11)
and Umballa (Rte. 11). There is a very
high picturesque fort seen well from
the railway, but the modern town con-
tains nothing of special interest. It
was brought into existence by the Brit-
ish shortly before the Mutiny.
213 m. Kot-Kapura junc. sta. (R.)
From here a branch line of 50 m. runs
W. to Fazilka on the Sutlej river.
241 m. Ferozepur sta.:t: (11.), DE.
A large town, fort, with military can-
tonment 2 m. to the S. (40,000 inhab.)
The place was founded in the time of
Feroz Shah, Emperor of Delhi, 1351~87
A.D. At the time of occupation by the
British it was in a declining state, but
through the exertions of Sir Henry
Lawrence and his successors it has in-

creased to its present importance.
There is a large commerce and a cotton-
press. The main streets are wide and
well paved, while a circular road which
girdles the wall is lined by the gardens
of wealthy residents.
The Fort, which contains the prin-
cipal arsenal in the Panjab, was rebuilt
in 1858, and greatly strengthened in
1887. The railway and the trunk road
to Ludhiana separate it and the town
from the Cantonment.
The Memorial Church, in honour of
those who fell in the Sutlej campaign
of 1845-46, was destroyed in the
Mutiny, but has since been restored.
In the cemetery lie many dis-
tinguished soldiers, amongst them
Major George Broadfoot, C.B., Madras
Army, Governor-General’s Agent, N.W.
Frontier, who fell at Ferozshah in
1845.
On the 16th of December 1845 the
Sikhs invaded the district, but, after
desperate fighting, were repulsed. Since
then peace has prevailed, except during
the Mutiny of 1857. In May of that
year one of the two Sepoy regiments
stationed at Ferozepur revolted, and, in
spite of a British regiment and some
English artillery, plundered and de-
stroyed the Cantonment.
The three great battlefields of the Pan-
jab campaign can best be visited from
this point. Ferozshah, where the battle
was fought on 21st and 22d December
1845, is distant 13 m. in a S.E. direction,
and Mudki is 7 m. beyond it in a
straight line. The fight at the latter
place was on the 18th December 1845.
Subraon was the scene of a great battle
on 10th February 1846. It is 24
m. distant from Ferozepur in N.E.
direction.
64 m. from Ferozepur Lahore sta.
(see Rte. 14.)


ROUTE 9.
165
JEYPORE TO AGRA
ROUTE 9
Jar/roan T0 AGRA
From Jeypore to Bandikui junc.
sta. (R.), 56 m. (see Rte. 6).
116 m. Bhurtpur sta., nt: D.B., the
residence of the Maharajah chief of the
Jet state (67,000 inhab.) The ruling
family is descended from a Jat Zam-
indar named Ohuraman, who harassed
the rear of Aurangzib's army during
his expedition to the Deccan. He was
succeeded by his brother and after him
by his nephew, Suraj Mall, who fixed
his capital at Bhurtpur, and subse-
quently (1760) drove out the Maratha
governor from Agra, and made it his
own residence.
In 1765 the J ats were repulsed before
Delhi and driven out of Agra.
In 1782 Sindia seized Bhurtpur
and the territory; however, he restored
14 districts to them, and when he got
into difficulties at Lalkot he made an
alliance with the Jat chief Ranjit Sin-
dia; and the Jets were defeated by
Ghulam Kadir at Fatehpur-Sikri, and
were driven back on Bhurtpur, but
being reinforced at the end of the same
year, in 1788, they raised the blockade
of Agra, and Sindia recovered it. In
1803 the British Government made a
treaty with Ranjit, who joined General
Lake at Agra with 5000 horse, and re-
ceived territory in return. But Ranjit
intrigued with Jaswant Rao Holkar.
Then followed the siege of Bhurtpur
by Lake, who was repulsed with a loss
of 3000 men. Ranjit then made over-
tures for peace, which were accepted on
the 4th of May 1805. Troubles again
breaking out regarding the succession,
Bhurtpur was again besieged, and on
the 18th of January 1826, after a siege
of six weeks, the place was stormed by
Gen. Lord Combermere. The loss of
the besieged was estimated at 6000 men
killed and wounded. The British had
103 killed, and 477 wounded and
missing.
The walled city of Bhurtpur is an
irregular oblong, lying N. E. and S.W.
The inner fort is contained in the N. E.
half of the outer fort. Three palaces

run right across the centre of the inner
fort from E. to W., that to the E. being
the Rajah's Palace. Next is an old
palace built by Badan Sing. To the
W. is a palace which is generally styled
the Kamara ; it is furnished in a semi-
European style.
There are only two gates to the inner
fort, the Chan Burj Gate on the S., and
the Asaldati on the N. The bastion
at the N.W. corner of the inner fort is
called the Jowahar Burj, and is worth
ascending for the view. N. of the
Kamara Palace is the Court of Justice,
the Jewel Office, and the Jail. On the
road between the Chen Burj Gate of
the inner fort and the Anah Gate of
the outer fort are the Gangs ki Mandir,
a market-place, the new mosque, and
the Lakhshmanji temple.
133 m. Achnera junc. sta. (R.)
This is the junction of a line of railway
passing through Muttra to Bindraban
and to Hathras on the East Indian Rail-
way. Also to F arakhabad, Fatehgarh,
and Cawnpore. As, however, the
journey from Agra to Cawnpore can be
made more conveniently by the East
Indian Railway, this route will not be
described in detail. (For Muttra, Bin-
draban, and Dig see Rte. 10.) Patch-
pur-Siln'i (see below) is 10 m. S.W.
from Achnera by a direct track, and
nearly 13 In. via Kiraoli and the Agra
road.
149 m. AGRA Fort sta.* (R. ),
D.B. where travellers alight for the
hotels. It is W. of the Fort, 'ust
outside the Delhi Gate, and is use by
all the lines running into Agra. The
cantonrnent sta., junc. of the Indian
Midland Rly. to Gwalior and J hansi, is
2 In. S. of the Fort sta. About 1 m. up.
the river is the Pontoon Bridge which
leads from the city to the old East
Indian Railway station, now used for
goods only.
This is the second city in size and
importance of the NW. Provinces,
and has a pop. of 165,000. It is 841
In. distant from Calcutta by rail, and
139 m. from Delhi. It stands on the
W. or right bank of the Jumna, here
crossed by a Railway/Bridge of 16 spans.


166 ROUTE 9.
India
J EYPORE TO AGRA
Itinerary.
Though a week might very pleasantly
be spent in visiting the sights in and
around Agra, they can be seen in
shorter time, and for those persons who
have not many days at their disposal
the following Itinerary may be of ser-
vrce :—
1st Day, Morning. —-Fort and Palace.
Afternoon—Drive to the J umma Mus-
jid and on to the Taj.
2d Day, Morning—Drive to Sikan-
darah. Afternoon. — To Itimadu ’d-
daulah.
Most people will like to visit some of
the places more than once. A full day, or
better still, 24 hours should be devoted
to the excursion to Fatehpur-Sikri.
The old Native City covered about
11 sq. m., half of which area is still
inhabited. It is clean and has a good
bazaar. The chief Articles of Native
Manufacture are gold and silver em-
broidery, carving in soapstone, and
imitation of the old inlay work (pietra
dura) on white marble.
The Cantonment and Civil Station
lie to the S. and S.W. of the Fort, and
E. of them on the river bank is the
famous Taj.
History.—Nothing certain is known
of Agra before the Mohammedan period.
The house of Lodi was the first Mo-
hammedan dynasty which chose Agra
for an occasional residence. Before
their time Agra was a district of Biana.
Sikandar bin Bahlol Lodi died at A ra
in 1515 A. 1)., but was buried at Del i.
Sikaudar Lodi built the Barahdari
Palace, near Sikandarah, which suburb
received its name from him. The Lodi
Khan ka Tila, or Lodi’s Mound, is now
built overwith modern houses ; itis said
to be the site of the palace of the Lodis,
called Badalgarh. Babar is said to have
had a garden-palace on the E. bank of
the J umna, nearly opposite the Taj, and
there is a mosque near the spot, with an
inscription which shows that it was
built by Babar’s son Humayun, in 1530
11.1).
On the Agra side of the river, near
the Barracks, there are the remains of
an ancient garden. Mr. Carlleyle thinks

it was the place where Akbar encamped
when he first came to Agra. In it is
the shrine of Kamal Khan, 40 ft. long,
and rectangular. It has red sandstone
pillars with square shafts and Hindu
bracket capitals. Broad eaves project
from above the entablatures, and are
supported by beautiful open- work
brackets of a. thoroughly Hindu char-
acter. The great well is at the back
of Kamal Khan’s shrine; it is 220 ft.
in circumference, with a 16-sided ex-
terior, each side measuring 13 ft. 9 in. :
at it 52 people could draw water at once.
From such works it appears that Agra
was the seat of government under
Babar and Humayun, though after
Humayun’s restoration he resided
frequently at Delhi, and died and was
buried there. Agra town was probably
then on the bank of the J umua. Akbar
removed from Fatehpur-Sikri to Agra
about 1568, but built the fort in 1566.
The only buildings that can now be
attributed to Akbar himself are the
walls and the Magazine to the S. of
the Water Gate, once Akbar’s audience-
hall. He died at Agra in 1605. Je-
hangir left Agra in 1618, and never
returned. Shah J ehan resided at Agra
from 1632 to 1637, and built the Pearl
Mosque, the Cathedral Mosque, and the
Taj. He was deposed by his son Aurang-
zib in 1658, but lived as a State prisoner
seven years longer there. Aurang-
zib removed the seat of government
permanently to Delhi. In 1764 it was
taken by Suraj Mall, of Bhurtpur and
Sumroo, with an army of J ats, who did
much damage to Agra. In 1770 the
Marathas captured it, and Were expelled
by Najaf Khan in 1774. In 1784 Mu-
hammad Beg was Governor of Agra,
and was besieged by Mahadaji Sindia,
who took it in 1784, and the Marathas
held it till it was taken by Lord Lake,
17th October 1803. Since then it has
been a British possession. In 1835 the
seat of government of the N.W. Pro-
vinces was removed to it from Alla-
habad.
On the 30th May 1857 two companies
of the 40th and 67th N.I., who had
been sent to Muttra to bring the
treasure there into Agra, mutinied and
marched off to Delhi. Next morning


non-rs 9.
seas l 67
h
their comrades were ordered to pile
arms, which they did, and most of
them went to their homes. On the 4th
the Kotah contingent mutinied, and
Went off to join the Neemuch mutineers,
consisting of a strong brigade of all
arms. Their camp was at 2 m. from
the Agra cantonment at Suchata. On
5th July, Brigadier Polwhele moved
out with 816 men to attack them.
The battle began with artillery, but
the enemy were so well posted, sheltered
by low trees and walls and natural
earthworks, that the British fired into
them with little damage. At 4 P.M.
the ammunition was expended, and
the guns ceased to fire; then Col.
Riddell advanced with the English
soldiers, and captured the village of
Shahganj, but with such heavy loss
that they were unable to hold their
ground. The British artillery were
so disabled that they could not go to
assist the infantry. The order for
retreat was then given. The enemy
pursued with great vigour; 20 Chris-
tians were murdered, the cantonments
were burnt, the records were destroyed,
and the eonflagration raged from the
civil lines on the right to the Khelat-i-
Ghilzi on the left.
There were now 6000 men, women,
and children, of whom only 1500 were
Hindus and Mohammedans, shut up in
the Fort of Agra.1 Among those were
nuns from the banks of the Garonne
and the Loire, priests from Sicily and
Rome, missionaries from Ohio and
Basle, mixed with rope-dancers from
Paris and pedlars from America.
Polwhele now made Fraser second in
command, and the fort was put in a
thorough state of defence. Soon after
Brigadier Polwhele was superseded,
and Col. Cotton took his place. On
the 20th of August he sent out his
Brig-Major Montgomery with a. small
column, and on the 24th Montgomery
defeated the rebels at Aligarh, and
took the place. On the 9th September
Mr. Oolvin, Lieut.-Governor of N.W.
Provinces, died. The mutineers, after
their successful engagement, marched
on to Delhi, but after the fall of that
city in September, the fugitive rebels,
1 See Magistrate's Mutiny.

together with those of Central India,
advanced, on 6th October, against Agra.
Meantime Col. Greathed’s column en-
tered the city without their knowledge,
and when they, unsuspicious of his
presence, attacked the place, they were
completely routed and dis ersed. Agra
was thus relieved from al danger. In
February 1858 the government of the
NQV. Provinces was removed to Allaha-
ba .
The Cantonment contains the usual
buildings of a British station. There is
an admirable club, which a traveller
should join if he knows a member to
introduce him.
The Taj Mahal should be seen more
than once. The best time for a first
visit is late in the afternoon. A good
road leads to it, made in the famine
of 1838. It stands on the brink of
the Jumna, a little more than 1 m.
E. of the Fort. The building is pro-


Taj Mahal.
perly named Taj bibi Ice Rom, or
“The Crown Lady’s Tomb." The
Taj with its surroundings is a spot of
unequalled beauty. The heroic size,
the wonderful contrast of colours in the
materials employed, the setting of noble
trees, sweet shrubs, and clear water,
form a combination that we seek in
vain elsewhere. This mausoleum was
commenced in 1040 A.H., or 1630 A.D.,
by the Emperor Shah J ehan, as a tomb
for his favourite queen, Arjmand Banm


168 ROUTE 9.
I ndt'a
JEYPORE TO AGRA
entitled Mumtaz Mahal, lit. the
“Chosen of the Palace,” or more freely,
“Pride of the Palace.” She was the
daughter of Asaf Khan, brother of
Nurjehan, the famous empress-wife of
J ehangir. Their father was Mirza
Ghiyas, a Persian, who came from
Teheran to seek his fortune in India,
and rose to power under the title of
Itimadu ’d-daulah. His tomb is de-
scribed below. Mumtaz - i - Mahal
married Shah Jehan in 1615 A.D., had
by him seven children, and died in child-
bed of the eighth in 1629, at Burhanpur,
in the Deccan. Her body was brought
to Agra, and laid in the garden where
the Taj stands until the mausoleum
was built. The Taj cost, according to
some accounts, 18,465,186 rs., and,
according to other accounts, 31,748,026
rs. It took upwards of seventeen years
to build, and much of the materials and
labour remained unpaid for. According
to Shah Jehan’s own memoirs, the
masons received only 30 lakhs. There
were originally two silver doors at the
entrance, but these were taken away
and melted by Suraj Mall and his Jats.
It‘ is uncertain who was the principal
architect, but Austin de Bordeaux was
then in the Emperor’s service. He was
buried at Agra, and it is probable that
he took part in the decoration, and
especially in the inlaid work, of the
mausoleum.
The approach to the Taj is by the
Taj Ganj Gate, which opens into an
outer court 880 ft. long and 440 ft.
wide, in which (1.) is the great gate-
way of the garden-court, which Mr.
Fergusson calls “ a worthy pendant to
the Taj itself.” It is indeed a superb
gateway, of red sandstone, inlaid with
ornaments and inscriptions from the
Koran, in white marble, and surmounted
by 26 white marble cupolas. Before
passing under the gateway, observe the
noble caravanserai outside, and an
equally fine building on the other side.
Bayard Taylor says: “Whatever may
he'the visitor's impatience, he cannot
help pausing to notice the fine propor-
tions of these structures, and the rich
and massive style of their construction.”
They are not only beautiful, but they
increase the glories of the mausoleum

itself, by the contrast of their somewhat
stern red sandstone with the soft and
pearl-like white marble of which it is
built.
Having passed the gateway, the
visitor finds himself in a beautiful gar-
den. In the centre is a stream of
water, which runs the whole length of
the garden, and has 23 fountains in its
course. The beds of the garden are
filled with the choicest shrubs and
cypress trees, equal in size and beauty
to those of Mazandarun. It is now
that the mausoleum presents itself to
the gaze in all its glory. It stands in
the centre of a platform, faced with
white marble, exactly 313 ft. sq. and
18 ft. high, with a white minaret at
each corner 133 ft. high. It is a sq.
of '186 ft. with the corners cut off
to the extent of 33% ft. The principal
dome is 58 ft. in diameter, and 80 ft.
in height.
The Taj was repaired before the Prince
of Wales's visit. The dome is brick
veneered with marble, and all the slabs
with which it is faced were examined,
and repointed where necessary. The
marble was damaged chiefly by the
swelling of the iron clamps during
oxidation.
In every angle of the mausoleum is
a small domical apartment, two stories
high, and these are connected by
various passages and halls. Under the
centre of the dome, enclosed by “a
trellis-work screen of white marble,
a chef d’oe'lwre of elegance in Indian
art," are the tombs of Mumtaz-i-Mahal
and Shah Jehan. “These, however,
as is usual in Indian sepulchres, are
not the true tombs—the bodies rest in
a vault, level with the surface of the
ground beneath plainer tombstones
placed exactly beneath those in the
hall above.” In the apartment above,
where the show tombs are, “ the light,”
says Mr. Fergusson, “ is admitted only
through double screens of white marble
trellis-work of the most exquisite de-
sign, one on the outer and one on the
inner face of the walls. In our climate
this would produce nearly complete
darkness ; but in India, and in a build-
ing wholly composed of white marble,
this was required to temper the glare


ROUTE 9.
AGRA 169
that otherwise would have been intoler-
able. As it is, no words can express
the chastened beauty of that central
chamber, seen in the soft gloom of the
subdued light that reaches it through
the distant and half-closed openings
that surround it. When used as a
Barahdari, or pleasure-palace, it must
always have been the coolest and the
loveliest of garden retreats, and now
that it is sacred to the dead, it is the
most graceful and the most impressive
of sepulchres in the world. This build-
ing too is an exquisite example of that
system of inlaying with precious stones
which became the great characteristic
of the style of the Moguls after the
death of Akbar. All the spandrils of
the Taj, all the angles and more im-
portant details, are heightened by being
inlaid with precious stones. These are
combined in wreaths, scrolls, and frets
as exquisitein design as beautiful in
colour. They form the most beautiful
and precious style of ornament ever
adopted in architecture. Though of
course not to be compared with the
beauty of Greek ornament, it certainly
stands first among the purely decorative
forms of architectural design. This
mode of ornamentation is lavishly be-
stowed on the tombs themselves and
the screen that surrounds them.
The judgment with which this style
of ornament is apportioned to the
various parts is almost as remarkable
as the ornament itself, and conveys a
high idea of the taste and skill of the
Indian architects of the age" (see
Hist. of Arch.)
The delicately sculptured ornamenta-
tion, in low relief, to be found in all
arts of the building, is in its way as
eautiful as the pietra dura work itself.
There are two wings to the mauso-
leum, one of which is a mosque. Any-
where else they would be considered
important buildings. There are three
inscriptions: 1046 A.H.=1636 A.D.,
1048 A.H. =1638 an, and 1057 A.H.
=1647 A.D. Mr. Keene, who has given
an excellent account of the Taj, thinks
that “the inscriptions show the order
in which the various parts of the build-
ing were completed." Such then is
this “ poem in marble,” whose beauty

has been faintly shadowed out. It
should be seen if possible by moon-
light, as well as by day. The S. face,
which looks upon the arden, is per-
haps the most beautifu , but the N.
front which rises above the Junina,
derives an additional charm from the
broad waters which roll past it.
The Fort—“Most of the magnifi-
cent Mogul buildings which render
Agra so interesting in the eye of the
traveller are situated within the Fort.
They justify the criticism that the
Moguls designed like Titans and
finished like jewellers." The Fort
stands on the right bank of the J umna.
The walls and flanking defences are of
red sandstone, and have an imposing
a pearance, being nearly 70 ft. high.
The ditch is 30 ft. wide and 35 ft. deep.
The water gate on the E. is closed, but
there are still 2 entrances—the Ummer
Sing gate on the 8., the Delhi Gate
on the W. Within it, and approached
by a somewhat steep slope, is another
gateway called the Hathiya Darwazah
“ Elephant Gate," or Inner Delhi Gate.
There used to be two stone elephants
here with figures of Patta and Jaimall,
two famous Rajput champions; they
were removed, but themarks where their
feet were fixed may still be traced on
the platforms on either side of the arch-
way. There are here two octagonal
towers of red sandstone, relieved with
designs in white plaster: the passage
between these is covered by a dome.
Following the road, the traveller will
then pass the Mini Bazaar, now barrack
premises, and reach
The Moti Musjid, the “Pearl
Mosque,” Fergusson describes as “one
of the purest and most elegant build-
ings of its class to be found any-
where.” It was commenced 1056 an.
=1648 A.D., and finished 1063 A.1{.=
1655 A.D., and is said to have cost
300,000 rs. It was built by Shah
Jchan on ground sloping from W. to E.
The exterior is faced with slabs of red
sandstone, but within with marble-—
white, blue, and. gray veined. The
entrance gateway of red sandstone,
which is very fine, makes a trihedral
projection from the centre of the L.


170 noun: 9.
India
JEYPORE TO AGRA
11


face of the mosque, and is approached
by a double staircase. “ The moment
you enter, the effect of its courtyard is
surpassiugly beautiful.”








cA'rsww
'-
Moti Musjid.
In the centre there is a marble tank,
37 ft. 7 in. sq., for ablutions, and be-
tween it and the S.E. inner corner of
the mosque there is an ancient sun-
dial, consisting of an octagonal marble
pillar 4 ft. high, with no gnomon, but
simply two crossed lines and an are. A
marble cloister runs round the E., N.,
and S. sides of the court, interrupted
by archways, of which those in the N.
and S. sides are closed. The mosque
proper consists of 3 aisles of 7 bays
opening on to the courtyard, and is
surmounted by 3 domes. On the en-
tablature over the front row of support-
ing pillars, tie. on the E. face, there is
an inscription running the whole length,
the letters being of black marble inlaid
into the white. The inscription says
that the mosque may be likened to a
precious pearl, for no other mosque is
lined throughout with marble like this.
Narrow flights of steps lead to the top
of the gateway and to the roof of the
mosque, from which there is a fine view.

During the Mutiny this mosque was
used as an hospital.
Turning rt. from the Moti Mosque,
the grand Armoury- Square, the Place du
Carrousel of Agra, with the Diwan-i-
’Am on the left, is entered. There are
ranges of cannons here and large
mortars, and amongst them the tomb
of Mr. Colvin. Here is also the Hauz
of Jehangir, an enormous monolithic
cistern of light-coloured porphyry or
close-grained granite; externally it is
nearly 5 ft. high, and internally 4 ft.
deep. It is 8 ft. in diameter at top.
It originally stood in J ehangir’s palace.
Some have thought the Diwan-i-'Am
was built by Akbar, others by J ehangir,
but according to Carlleyle it was built
by Shah J ehan, and was his public Hall
of Audience. This building is 201 ft.
long from N. to S., and consists of 3
aisles of 9 bays open on 3 sides. The
roof is supported by graceful columns
of red sandstone, painted white and
gpld on the occasion of the Prince of
’alcs’s visit. Along its back wall are
grilles, through which fair faces could
watch what was going forward in the
hall below, and in its centre is a raised
alcove of white marble richly decorated
with pietra dura work and low reliefs,
which bear evident traces of Italian
design. Here travellers describe Au-
rangzib sitting to watch the administra~
tion of justice in the hall below.
Ascend now some stairs at the back
of the place where the Emperor sat in
the Diwan-i-’Am, and pass through a
doorway into Shah Jehan’s palace.
Here is the Macth Bhawan, or “ Fish
Square," formerly a tank. In the N.
side are two bronze gates taken by
Akbar from the palace at Chitor. At
the N.W. corner is a beautiful little
three-domed mosque of white marble,
called the Naginah Musjid, or “Gem
Mosque." It was the private mosque
of the royal ladies of the court, and was
built by Shah Jehan, who was after-
wards imprisoned there by his successor
Aurangzib. Beneath, in a small court-
yard, was a bazaar where the merchants
used to display their goods to the ladies
of the court. A two-storied cloister
runs all round the Machchi Bhawan,
except on the side which fronts the




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1. Northern Tower. 12. Saman Burj (Jasmine Tower) (at N.
2. Descent to Water Gate. angle is an outlet by secret passage).
3. Naginah Musjid and ladies’ private Bazaar. 13. Khas M ahal.
4. Small Courts and ruins of Baths. 14. Shish Mahal (Mirror Palace).
5. Open Terrace with Diwan-i-Khas on S. side. 15. Well.
6. Recess where the Emperor’s Throne 16. Palace of J ehangir.
stood. 17. Tower. At the base is an entrance to
7. Diwan-i-‘Am (Hall of Public Audience). a secret passage.
8. Machchi Bhawan. 18. Incline from Unnner Sing's Gate.
9. Mr. Colvin’s Grave. 19. Ruins of Palace of Akbar.
0. The Marble Baths of the Princesses. 20. Elephant Gate.
1. The Anguri Bagh (Grape Garden). :21. Court of Uinmer Sing’s Gate.
T0 face 11. 170.



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nourn 9.
AGRA 171
Jnmna, where the upper story gives
place to an open terrace, with a black
throne, on the side nearest the river,
and a white seat opposite, where it is
said the Court Jester sat. The black
throne has a long fissure, which is said
to have appeared when the throne was
usurped by the J at chief of Bhurtpur.
There is a reddish stain in one spot,
which shows a combination of iron, but
the natives pretend that it is blood. An
inscription runs round the four sides,
which says in brief, when Salim became
heir to the crown his name was changed
to Jehangir, and for the light of his
justice he was called Nuru-din. His
sword cut his enemies' heads into two
halves like the Gemini. As long as
the heaven is the throne for the sun,
may the throne of Salim remain. Date
1011 A.H. =1603 A.D. Beneath this
terrace is a deep wide ditch where eon-
tests between elephants and tigers used
to take place. Close by, near the S. W.
corner of the terrace, is the Meena.
Musjid, or private mosque of the em-
peror. On the N. of the terrace is the
site of the hall of green marble and
Hummam, now in a ruinous condition,
and on the S.
The Diwan-i-Khas, or Hall of Private
Audience. It is a miracle of beauty.
The carving is exquisite, and flowers
are inlaid on the white marble, with
red cornelian, and other valuable stones.
From this building, or from his throne
on the terrace, the Emperor looked
over the broad river to the beautiful
gardens and buildings on the opposite
shore. The date of this building is
1046 A.H. =1637 AJ). The inlaid or
pietra dura work has been restored. A
staircase leads from the Diwan-i-Khas
to the Saman Burj, or Jasmine Tower,
where the chief Sultana lived. Part of
- the marble pavement in front of it is
made to represent a Pachisi board. The
lovely marble lattice-work seems to have
been broken by cannon-shot in some
places. A beautiful pavilion, with a
fountain and retiring-room, close upon
the river, are the chief apartments here.
Adjoining and facing the river is the
Golden Pavilionso called from its being
roofed with gilded plates of copper. In
it are bedrooms for ladies, with holes in

the wall, 14 in. deep, into which they
used to slip their jewels. These holes
are so narrow that only a woman’s arm
could draw them out. There is a simi-
lar building on the S. side of the Khas
Mahal (see below).
Near here are remains of reservoirs
and watercoulses, and arrangements
for the raising of water from below.
The traveller will now enter the
Anguri Bagh or “Grape Garden,” a
fine square of 280 ft. planted with
flowers and shrubs. At the N.E.
corner is the Shish Mahal, literally
“Mirror Palace.” It'consists of two
dark chambers furnished with fountains
and an artificial cascade arranged to
fall over lighted lamps. The walls and
ceiling are lined with innumerable small
mirrors (restored in 1875). From here
there is direct communication with the
Water Gate and the Saman Burj. At
the E. end of the square is a lovely
hall, called the Khan Mahal, the gild-
ing and colouring of which were in part
restored in 1875. In front are small
tanks and fountains. Proceeding to
the 8., the visitor will come to three
rooms, beautifully decorated in fresco,
which were the private apartments of
Shah J ehan.
On the rt. is an enclosure railed in,
in which stand the so-called Gates of
Somnath, 25 ft. high, and finely carved :
they are of Deodar wood, of Saracenic
work. There is a Kufic inscription
running round them, in which the name
of Sabuktagin has been read. They
were captured by General Knott at
Ghazni and brought herein 1842. The
room nearest the river is an octagonal
pavilion, and very beautiful. In it
Shah J ehan died, gazing upon the Taj,
the tomb of his favourite wife.
Jehangir Mahal, a red stone palace
into which the traveller now enters,
was built by Jehangir immediately
after the death of Akbar. It stands in
the S. part of the Fort, between the
palace of Shah J ehan and the Bangali
bastion. The red sandstone of which
it is built has not resisted the destruc-
tive action of the elements. In some
parts there are two stories; the lower
story has no windows looking to the


172 some 9.
India
JEYPORE TO AGRA
front, but the upper has several. The
upper front is ornamented with blue
and bri ht green tiles inserted into
the san stone. The masonic symbol
of the double triangle, inlaid in white
marble, occurs in several places on the
front gateway. The entrance gateway
leading directly into the palace is very
fine. The two corner towers were sur-
mounted by elegant cupolas, of which
one only remains. Near here, on the
roof, may again be seen arrangements
for the storage of water, with 21 pipes
for supplying the fountains below. The
entrance leads through a vestibule into
a beautiful domed hall, 18 ft. sq., the
ceiling of which is elaborately carved.
A corridor leads into the grand central
court, which is 72 ft. sq. The design
of this court, its pillars, the carving
and ornamentation, are all pure Hindu.
“On the N. side of the court is a
grand open pillared hall 62 ft. long
and 37 ft. bread. The pillars support
bracket capitals, richly carved and
ornamented with pendants. The front
brackets support broad sloping eaves
of thin stone slabs. But the stone
roof or ceiling of this pillared hall is
the most remarkable feature about
it. It is supported most curiously
by stone cross-beams, which are orna-
mented with the quaint device of a
great serpent or dragon carved on them
engthways. A covered passage, or
corridor, runs round the top of this
hall, from which one can look down
into it. The other pillared hall on
the opposite or S. side of the grand
court is somewhat less in size.”
Passing from the grand court, through
a large chamber to the E., the visitor
will find a grand archway in the centre
of a quadrangle which faces the river.
It is supported by two lofty pillars and
two half pillars of the more slender
and graceful Hindu kind. Some of
the chambers are lined with stucco,
which has been painted, and has
lasted better than the stone-work.
For minute and exquisite ornamental
carving in stone, the great central
court is pre-eminent. The palace ends
on the side facing the river with a
retaining wall, and two corner bastions,
each surmounted by an ornamental

tower with a domed cupola. There
are many vaulted chambers underneath
the alace, believed to have been used
as p aces of retreat during the summer
heats. They were thoroughly explored
during 1857, but as the air is very
close, and snakes are numerous, they
are seldom visited. Between the palace
of Jehangir and that of Shah Jehan
there is a series of bathing tanks and
pipes.
The Jumma Musjid faces the Delhi
gate of the Fort, and is close to
the rly. sta. It stands upon a raised
platform, reached by flights of steps on
the S. and E. sides. The mosque
proper is divided into 5 compartments,
each of which opens on the courtyard
by a fine archway. The work has all
the originality and vigour of the early
Mogul style, mixed with many re-
miniscences of the Pathan school. The
inscription over the main archway sets
forth that the mosque was constructed
by the ‘Emperor Shah Jehan in 1644,
after five years’ labour. It was built in
the name of his daughter J chanara,
who afterwards devotedly shared her
father’s captivity when he was deposed
by Auraugzib. The great peculiarity
of this Musjid consists in its three great
full-bottomed domes without necks,
shaped like inverted balloons, and built
of red sandstone, with zigzag bands of
white marble circling round them.
Its grand gateway was pulled down by
the British authorities during the
Mutiny, as it threatened the defences
of the Fort.

St. George's Church is divided into
a nave with two side aisles. It was
built in 1826, partly by Government
and partly by subscription. The tower
and spire are of more recent date. The
inlaid marble work for which Agra is
so famous is well worth notice in the
reredos and the altar.
St. Paul’s (Military) Church was
built by the E. I. 00. in 1828. It
contains several interesting tablets.
St. Paul’s (Oim'l) Church, about 4
m. N. of St. George’s Church.
The Agra College—At the end of
the last-cent. Maharajah Sindia made


nou'rn 9.
AGRA 1 7 3
over certain villages in the districts of
Muttra and Aligarh to a learned Brah-
man for the twofold purpose of keeping
up a Sanscrit school and of supplying
the wants of pilgrims visiting the
shrines around Muttra. In 1818 he
left his lands in trust to the E. Indian
Co. , who devoted two-thirds of the pro-
ceeds to the establishment of this col-
lege, and one-third to hospitals at
Muttra and Aligarh. The College,
opened 1835, consists of a high school,
with 700 pupils and 27 masters, and a
college proper, with 250 undergraduates
and 11 professors. It is managed by a
board of trustees.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral, Gon-
cent, and Schools, dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, are quite close to the Old
Jail, and g m. N.W. of the Fort.
There is a tower about 150 ft. high.
To the N. of the church is a fine
white building, a convent, and to the
S. is the priests' house. On the wall
of the garden are several inscriptions,
the oldest of which bears the date of
1791 A.I). These buildings are large,
but not architecturally interesting.
The establishment is, however, worthy
of attention for its antiquity and the
good work it does. It is the seat of a
Roman Catholic Bishop. The Mission
was founded in the time of Akbar, and
has long been celebrated for its school,
where the children of soldiers and others
are educated. The earliest tombs con-
nected with the settlement of Christians
at Agra are in the old cemetery attached
to the Mission. The most ancient epi-
taphs are in'the Armenian character.
John Hessing and Walter Reinhardt
(Sumroo) lie here.
The Central Jail, 1 m. to the N.W.
of the Fort, is one of the largest, if
not the largest, in India. The manu-
factures in this Jail are well worth
attention. In the carpet factory men
sit on each side, and the Instructor
calls out the thread ; his words are
repeated by one of the men, and the
thread put in accordingly. A first-class
carpet has eight threads in the weft, and
eight in the warp in the sq. in. Six
men in a full day of ten hours’ work can
make 5 in. a day in a 12 ft. carpet.
Promenade Gardens, otherwise called

the Asafa Bagh, where the band plays
every Wednesday. In the centre is a
lofty sandstone obelisk, with an inscrip-
tion to General Sir John Adams,
G.C.B.
The Tomb of I’timadu - daulah.—
This building, one of the finest in Agra,
stands on the left bank of the Jumna,
near the E. I. Railway Goods Station.
The traveller should cross the pontoon
bridge and turn to the left, and at about
200 yds. he will come to the garden
in which it stands. It is the tomb
of Ghayas Beg, called by Sir W. Sleeman,
Khwajah Accas, a Persian, who was the
father of Nur Jehan, and her brother,
Asaf Khan, and became high treasurer
of J ehangir. This mausoleum is entirely
encased with white marble externally,
and partly internally, being beautifully
inlaid with pietra dura work. It is a
square building with an octagonal tower
at each corner and a raised pavilion in
the centre. On each side of each of the
entrances are window recesses filled with
exquisite marble lattice-work. Notice
the remarkably delicate low relief work
in the return of the doorways overhead.
Each chamber has a door leading into
the next, but the central has only one
open door, the other three being filled
with marble lattice-work. In this cen-
tral chamber are the two yellow marble
tombs of Ghayas Beg and his wife, on
a platform of variegated stone. The
walls are decorated with pietra dura.
There are seven tombs altogether in the
mausoleum. The side chambers are
also panelled with slabs of inlaid marble,
but the upper part of the walls and the
ceiling are lined with plaster, orna-
mented with paintings of flowers and
long-necked vases. In the thickness of
the outer walls of the S. chamber there
are two flights of stairs, which ascend
to the second story, on which is the
pavilion, containing two marble ceno-
taphs, counterparts of those below. The
roof is canopy-shaped, with broad slop-'
ing eaves, and marble slabs. The sides
are of perforated marble lattice-work.
The octagonal towers, faced with marble,
at each corner of the mausoleum spread
out into balconies supported by brackets
at the level of the roof. There was a
marble railing, which has been de-


174 ROUTE 9.
I ndia
JEYPORE TO AGRA
stroyed, along the platform of the roof.
The mausoleum is surrounded by a
walled enclosure, except towards the
river, or W. front ; in the centre of the
river-front is a red sandstone pavilion.
Ghini Ica Roza, or china tomb,
stands on the left bank of the Jumna,
opposite Agra. It has one great dome
resting on an octagonal base. In the
centre is a beautiful octagonal domed
chamber in ruins. In it are two tombs
of brick, which have replaced marble
tombs. Besides the central chamber,
there are four square corner chambers,
and four side halls. The mausoleum
stands on the river bank, in a masonry
enclosure. Though called china, this
ruin is only externally glazed or en-
amelled. It is said to have been built
byi) Afzal Khan, in the time of Aurang-
zr .
The Kalam Musjid is opposite the
present Medical School in the Saban
Katra. Mr. Carlleyle thinks it the
oldest mosque in Agra, and that it was
built by Sikandar Lodi.
Akbar’s Tomb is at Sikandarah, so
named from Sikandar Lodi, who reigned
from 1489 AD. It is 5%} m. from the
cantonment at Agra, in a N.W. direc-
tion. There are many tombs on the
way, and a badly sculptured horse, which
formerly stood on an inscribed pedestal,
now removed. This is on the left or S.
side of the road, nearly 4 m. from Agra,
and nearly opposite the lofty arched
gateway of an ancient building called
the Kachi ki Sarai. At 4 m. farther on
is a tank of red sandstone, with orna-
mental octagonal towers, called Guru
ka J al. On the S. side are three flights
of steps, and E. of them is along and
broad channel of masonry, which brought
water to the tank. At the E. side
there is a mausoleum on a platform of
masonry. According to Mr. Carlleyle,
the Barahdari was built by Sikandar
Lodi in 1495 A.1). It is a red sand-
stone two-storied building. The ground
floor contains forty chambers. Each
corner of the building is surmounted
bya short octagonal tower. It is com-
monly known as the tomb of Begam
Mariam, because Akbar interred here
his so-ealled Portuguese Christian wife
Mary. Her tomb is in the vault below

and there is also a white marble ceno-
taph in the centre of the upper story.
The Barahdari is now occupied by a
part of the establishment of the Agra
Orphan Asylum.
The gateway to the garden surround-
ing Akbar’s Tomb is truly magnificent.
It is of red sandstone, inlaid with white
marble, very massive, and with a
splendid scroll, a foot broad, of Tughra
writing adornin it. On the top of the
gateway, at eac corner, rises a white
minaret of two stories. The kiosks
which crowned them have been de-
stroyed over 100 years. There is a fine
view from the platform at the top, and
it is worth ascending the steep stairs for
it. To the W. are seen the Orphanage
Church, and a little to the right of it
the Begam ka Mahal, its dark red colour
contrasting with the white of the
church. Far t0 the S.W. on a clear day
the grand archway at Fatehpur-Sikri can
be dimly seen. Over the tomb to the
N. is seen the J umna; to the S.E. are
seen the Fort, the Taj, the church in
the Civil Lines, and the city of Agra.
Abroad paved path leads to the mauso-
leum of Akbar. It is a pyradeal
building of 4 stories, three of which
are of red sandstone, the fourth, where
rests Akbar's cenotaph, being of white
marble. A massive cloister runs round
the lower story, broken S. and N. by
high central arches: that on the S. forms
the entrance. The vaulted ceiling of
the vestibule was elaborately frescoed
in gold and blue. A section has been
restored. The Surah-i-Mulk runs under
the cornice in a scroll 1 ft. broad. A
gentle incline leads to the vaulted
chamber in which the great Akbar-
rests; it is quite dark, and the once
illuminated walls are now dirty and de-
faced. On either side of the main arch
bays of the cloister are screened off and
contain tombs. First on the left is
a tomb with an Arabic inscription in
beautiful characters. This is the tomb
of Shukru’n Nisa Begam. The second
is the tomb of the uncle of Bahadur
Shah, the last king of Delhi. The next
is the tomb of Zibu’n Nisa, daughter of
Aurangzib ; and in a niche in the side
of the room, farthest from the entrance,
is an alabaster tablet inscribed with


aourn 9.
175
FATEHPUR-SIKRI
the 99 divine names. On the E. of the
entrance is the tomb of Aram Bano.
Narrow staircases lead above. The
fourth or highest platform is surrounded
by a beautiful cloister of white marble,
carved on the outer side into lattice-
work in squares of 2 ft., every square
having a different pattern. In the
centre is the splendid white cenotaph
of Akbar, just over the place where his
dust rests in the gloomy vaulted cham-
ber below. On the N. side of this
cenotaph is inscribed the motto of the
sect he founded, “Allahu Akbar,”
“God is greatest" ; and on the S. side
“Jalla Jalalahu," “May His glory
shine.” To the N. of this cenotaph,
at the distance of 4 ft., is a handsome
white marble pillar 4 ft. high, which
was once covered with gold and con-
tained the Koh-i-Nur. It is said that
Nadir Shah took it from here.
A short distance to the left of the
main road, which runs through Sik-
andarah, there is an old mosque, partly
built of brick and partly of red sand-
stone, called Bhuri Khan’s. It has one
dome. There is an octagonal tower at
each front corner. A short distance
to the S.E. are the remains of Bhuri
Khan’s palace, namely, the gateway
and part of the facade. Just beyond
the N. W. corner of the mausoleum at
Sikandarah is an old Hindu boundary
stone with a Nagari inscription, which
gives the date 1494.

A good road—the one used by the
great Akbar himself—leads W. from
Agra through a shady avenue to 22% m.
Paraurua - erar, >0: DE. (The
nearest rly. stas. are Achnera Junc.,
12 m., and Bhurtpur, 11 In. No
carriages at either place.)
Proceeding to the W. from Agra
through Shahganj, observe at the en-
trance to it the ruins of a mosque, with
an inscription saying it was built in
1621, the 16th year of J ehangir’s reign.
It marks the site of the old Ajmere
gate. Farther on is a Muslim cemetery,
known as Mujdi ka Gumbaz, where is
the tomb of Mirza Hindal, son of Babar,
father of Akbar’s chief wife. At the
foot of the tomb is a monolith 7 ft.
high, with the date 1570.

The royal apd now deserted city of
Fatehpur-Sikrgl standing on a low
sandstone ridg as essentiallyAkbar’s,
the whole bein ,gun (1570) and com-
pleted during hisreign ; owing to this
fact and on account of its very perfect
state of preservation it forms a unique
specimen of a city in the exact condition
in which it was occupied by the Great
Mogul and his court. It is hard to
say what induced Akbar to build at
Fatehpur-Sikri, possibly because after
the death of twin sons it was prog-
nosticated by Salim Chisti, an old
saint residing there, that another would
be born to him who would survive. As
foretold, this was the case, and the
child, called Salim after the hermit,
eventually ascended the throne as
Jehangir. Akbar gave the town the
prefix “Fatehpur” (city of victory) to
commemorate his conquest of Guzerat.
Beyond the period of Akbar’s occu-
pation, Fatehpur-Sikri has no local
historyworth mentioning. The British
Government had a tahsil here as late
as 1850, when it was removed to Karaoli
on the ground of unhealthiness. Dur-
ing the Mutiny it was twice occupied
by Neemuch and the Nusseerabad rebels
between July and October 1857.
From the arrangement of the build-
ings it is evident that Akbar had the
whole carefully planned out. This
will be seen by the position of the
Khwabgah, Akbar’s private room,
which commands the Dafter Kha'rm,
Record Office, and the whole of the
principal buildings. From it he could
reach, without being observed, “Jodh
Bai”—by a covered way pulled down
during 19th century restorations—
Miriam’s House, Bir Bal’s, Panch
Mahal, Turkish Sultana’s House,Council
Chamber, etc. etc. On entering the
city by the Agra gate, the traveller will
see the remains of an old building
formerly used by merchants. Proceed-
ing up the road, which lies between
mounds of debris and ruins, he passes
beneath the Nawbat Khana, from the
upper rooms of which musicians played
as Akbar entered the city. Farther l.
are the remains of the Treasury, and
opposite it what is known traditionally
as the Mint, a large quadrangular build-


176 ROUTE 9.
JEYPORE TO AGRA
ing. ' Just in front of this is the Diwan-
i-’Am, measuring some 366 ft. from N.
to S. by 181 ft. from E. to W., and
surrounded by a flat-roofed cloister.
On the W. side is the hall, with a deep
verandah in front, from which Akbar
delivered his judgments in the presence
of the assembled crowd below. He
stood between two pierced stone screens
of fine geometric design, extant but
restored. The room behind has a
in Persian (much defaced) to the Ern-
peror. Originally the chamber was
painted. Below is a room, and in it a
platform supported by two splendid
red sandstone shafts beautifully carved.
Probably the Hindu priest lived here.
W. is a door which led to the Dafter
Khana (see above), and by it the
officers and others could enter the
Khwabgah. The space to the N.
formed the Khas Mahal.

PLAN OF
FATEHPUR SIKRI



anaasca
. Shaik Salim Chisti's Dargah
. Panch Mahal
. Diwan-i-'Am
. Jodh Bai’s Palace
. Diwan-LKhas
. Birbal’s House
. Miriam’s House
. Camel and Horse Stable
. Turkish Bath
. Sultana’s Apartment
. Large Octagonal Baoli
. Gate of Victory




peculiar roof, which was painted. The
road leads through the courtyard to the
Dafter Khana, or Record Office, now
the D. B. On the back is a staircase
leading to the roof, from which there is
a fine view of the city. The inner
stone partition walls are modern. In
front, facing N., is Akbar’s Khwab-
gab, 0r Sleeping Apartment, literally
“House of Dreams." Written on the
internal walls over the architraves of
the doors are some complimentary verses
"'ulkzr & Ban m [I 41'.
At the N.E. corner of the courtyard
is the “Turkish Queen’s " House,
thought by most people to be the most
interesting apartment of all. As it
now stands it consists of only one small
chamber 15 X 15 ft. Every square inch
is carved, including the soflits of the
cornices. The ceiling and decoration
of the verandah pillars and pilasters
are exceptionally fine. Inside is a most
elaborate dado about 4 ft. high, con-
sisting of 8 sculptured panels repre-


some 9.
177
FATEHPUR-SIKRI
senting forest views, animal life, etc.
Above, the wall takes the form of a
stone lattice screen, the divisions of
which were used as shelves. Much of
the carving is curiously like Chinese
work.
W. is the Girls’ School, a small plain
building carried on square stone piers.
In front is an open square, upon the
stone flags of which is Akbar’s Pachisi-
board, with his stone seat in the centre.
It is in the form of a cross and is laid
out in coloured pavement. It is said
the game was played with slave girls to
take the moves, as we use ivory pieces
on a chess-board.
At the N. of the quadrangle is the
Diwan-i-Khas, or “Private Hall," or
Council Chamber. From the outside
it appears to be two stories high, but
on entering it is found to consist of one
only, with a central pillar crowned by
an immense circular corbelled capital,
radiating from which to the 4 corners
of the building are 4 stone causeways
enclosed by open trellis stone balus-
trades (restored). Tradition says that
in the centre of this capital the Emperor
sat whilst the corners were occupied by
his 4 ministers. The shaft is beauti-
fully carved, and should be carefully
studied. On the E. and W. sides are
stone staircases communicating with
the roof. The open screen-work in the
windows is modern. A few feet to the
W. is the building known as the Ank
Michauli, and the story told is that
the Emperor here played hide-and-
seek with the ladies of the Court; but
it was most likely used for records.
It consists of 3 large lofty rooms sur-
rounded by narrow passages, lighted
by stone screen windows. The ceilings
of 2 of the rooms are coved, but the
3d is flat and supported on struts orna-
mented with grotesque carving. In
front, on the S.E. corner, is a small
' canopied structure used by the astro-
loger, who probably was a Hindu Guru,
or “teacher.” It is after the style of
architecture used by the Hindus dur-
ing the 11th and 12th cents. Under
the architraves are curiously carved
struts issuing from the mouths of
monsters dowelled into the shafts
at the corners. The under side of the
[India]

dome was painted. Adjoining these
buildings to the W. is the Hospital.
Some of the stone partitions forming
the wards are extant. The ceilings
are of solid slabs of stone, carved on
the outside to represent tiles.
From here is next seen the Panch
Mahal, a 5-storied colonnade, each tier
being smaller than the one below, till
nothing but a small kiosque remains
atop. It was probably erected for the
ladies of the court as a pleasure resort,
as the sides were originally enclosed
with stone screens: these were removed
during modern restorations, when the
solid stone parapets were replaced by
the pierced ones as at present seen, and
the positions of the staircases were
altered. The first floor is remarkable
on account of the variety of the 56
columns which sup ort the story
above, no two are a ike in design.
Many of the shafts are similar, but the
caps vary: at the angles of one are
elephants' heads with interlaced trunks,
on another a man gathering fruit. On
the N.W. angle is a. group of 4 which
should be examined. From the top-
most floor there is 'a splendid view.
S. and a little to W. of the Panch
Mahal is the House of Miriam (said to
have been Akbar’s Portuguese Christian
wife, but more probably a Hindu
princess), a small building with defaced
frescoes in the niches and upon the
walls, and piers of verandah. One, in
which the wings of angels are distinctly
visible, suggests the Annuciation. At
one time the whole house was painted
inside and out. The original name
Sunahra Makan, or “Golden House,"
was given it on account of the profuse
gilding with which its walls were
adorned. On the N.W. is Miriam’s
Garden, and at S.E. angle her bath,
with a large column in the centre. On
the W. side is the Naginah, or Zenana,
Mosque, and the remains of a small
Turkish bath. At the S. and of
garden is a small fish tank, which, to-
gether with the stone pavement of the
garden, was brought to light by Mr. E.
W. Smith of the Arch. Survey, 1891.
To the N.W. a road leads to the
Hathi P01 (Elephant Gate) on the N.
of the city. Over the W. archway, 20
N


178 ROUTE 9.
India
JEYPORE TO AGRA
ft. from the ground, are 2 life-sized
elephants much mutilated (probably
by Aurangzib). To the l. is the
Sungin Burj, a groined bastion or keep,
said to have been the commencement
of the fortifications planned by Akbar,
but abandoned on account of objections
raised by Saint Salim Chisti. Down
the old stone paved road on the l. is
the Karwan Sarai (caravanserai). It
consists of a large court 272x246 ft.
surrounded by the merchants’ hostels.
Formerly the S.E. side was 3 stories
high. At the N. end, beyond the
Sarai, stands the Hiran Minar (Deer
Minaret), a circular tower some 70 ft.
high studded with protruding elephants’
tasks of stone. Tradition says that it
is erected over the grave of Akbar’s
favourite elephants, and that from the
lantern in the top the Emperor shot
antelope and other game brought up by
beaters, hence its name. The lan to
the N. and W. was a large lake in
Akbar’s time.
On the l. of the road returning to
the Hathi P01 is a very fine stone
well surrounded by rooms and stair-
cases which formed a part of the
waterworks. The water was lifted
from this level by Persian wheels
and a system of reservoirs to the
arched gate on the N.W. corner of
Bir Bal’s House, and thence dispensed
throughout the palace.
The palace of Bir Bal is to the S.W.
of Miriam’s Garden (see above). It is
the finest residence in Fatehpur-Sikri,
and was built by Rajah Bir Bal for his
daughter. It is a 2-storied building of
red sandstone standing on a raised
platform, and consists of 4 rooms 15
ft. sq. and 2 entrance porches on the
ground floor and 2 above with small
terraces in front of them, enclosed by
stone screens, forming a ladies’ pro-
menade. Over the upper rooms are
fiat-ribbed cupolas, carried on octagonal
drums and supported on richly orna-
mented corbel brackets stretching
across the angles of the rooms ; and the
stone panelled walls and niches are
covered with intricate patterns. The
ceilings of the lower rooms are supported
on a fine and unique frieze, and the
whole of the interior, pilasters, recesses,

walls, and cusp-arched doorways are
elaborately and beautifully carved with
geometrical patterns. The exterior
walls are almost as profusely orna-
mented. N0 wood has been used in
the construction of this extraordinary
building, to which the words of Victor
Hugo have been applied: “If it were
not the most minute of palaces, it was
the most gigantic of jewel-cases."
Rajah Bir Bal was celebrated for his wit
and learning, and was the only Hindu
of eminence who embraced the new
religion of Akbar, whose favourite
courtier he was. He perished with the
whole of the army he'was commanding
in the Yusufzye country to the N.E.
of Peshawar in 1586.
S. of Bir Bal’s house are the Stables
for 102 horses and nearly as many
camels. In some of the mangers stone
rings for the horses’ halters still remain,
and on the N.W. side one of the old
doors. The camel stables are lighted
by openings in the roof.
The Palace of Jodh Bai, erroneously
so called, was probably used by the
Emperor or by his chief wife Sultana
Rukia. It adjoins the stables, but the
entrance is on the E. from the open
space in front of the Record Ofice. It
is a quadrangular building, 232x 215
ft. The courtyard within has recep-
tion rooms on the N., S., and W. sides
connected by a flat-roofed corridor
partly closed by stone walls. The
room on the W. is more ornate than
the others, and in the rear wall is a
fire lace. There are chambers above,
an those on the N. and S. sides rise
to 2 stories : they are gable-roofed and
ornamented with blue enamelled tiling.
At the angles the chambers are sur-
mounted by cupolas, originally painted.
Overlooking Miriam’s Garden is a
small room, the walls of which are
entirely composed of beautiful stone
lattice-work. From the mezzanine floor
on the N. side a closed passage leads to
a garden abutting on the waterworks,
beside which a gallery passed to the
N. side of the Sarai near the Hiran
Minar. It is now in ruins, and not
easy of identification. In the pass-
age, and just before the garden is
reached, is a very fine stone screen


ROUTE 9.
179
FATEHPUR-SIKRI
beneath a small cupola which should
be seen.
The Dargah and Mosque are S. W. of
the Record Oflice. The E. gate, called
the Badshahi, or “roya ” gate, opens
into the great quadrangle. To the rt. is
the Tomb or Dargah of Shaik Salim
Chisti, the Nawasa or grandson of Shak-
har Ganj Shah, who is buried at Pak
Patan. It is surrounded by beautiful
white marble lattice-work screens, and
has doors of solid ebony, ornamented
with brass. Within, the building is
marble only for the first4 ft. Thecanopy
over the tomb of the saint is inlaid with
mother-of-pearl, hung with the usual
display of ostrich eggs. On the ceno-
taph is written the date of the saint’s
death and the date of the completion of
the building, 1580, “May God hallow
his tomb ! The beloved helper of the
sect and its saint, Shaik Salim, whose
miraculous gifts and propinquity to the
Divine Being are celebrated, and by
whom the lamp of the family of Chisti
illuminated. Be not double-sighted,
looking to the transitory self, as well
as to t e everlasting Deity. The year
of his decease is known throughout the
world!" This last line is the chrono-
am.
The brackets which support the drip-
stone or caves of the tomb are copies of
those in the old mosque of the stone-
masons outside the quadrangle and W.
of the mosque, where Shaik Salim lived
his hermit life in a cave now covered
by a room. In a portico on the light
the saint taught his disciples before
the lace had attracted the notice of
royaity. Childless women, both Hindu
and Mohammedan, resort to the tomb
and pray the saint to intercede in their
favour. On the N. of the uadrangle
is also the tomb of Islam han, sur-
mounted with a cupola ; he was the
grandson of the saint, and Governor of
Bengal.
The Mosque proper, to the W. , is said
to be a copy of the one at Mecca. It
is about 70 ft. high, and very beautiful.
It consists of 3 interior square chambers
surrounded by rows of lofty pillars of
1 All the inscriptions here may be found
in the Miftahu ‘l Tuwarikh, by John Ellis,
printed at Agra.

Hindu type. At the N. and S. ends
are zenana chambers. Going out by
a door at the back of the mosque, in an
enclosure on the right is an infant’s
tomb, said to be that of the saint’s sonI
whose life was sacrificed at the age of
6 months in order that Akbar’s son
(J ehangir) might live when born. At
the S. of the quadrangle is the Gate of
Victory, Bulvmd Darwazah (“ high
gate "), which towers to the hei ht of
130 ft. Fergusson says thatwhen ooked
at from be ow its appearance is noble
beyond that of any portal attached to
any mosque in India, perhaps in the
whole world. The grandeur of this
great height is increased by a vast flight
of steps on the outside, giving a total
height of 160 ft.
In the archway is an inscription on
the left hand going out, which says
that the “King of Kings, Shadow of
God, Jalalu-din, Muhammad Akbar,
the Emperor, on his return from con-
quering the kingdoms of the S., and
Khandesh, formerly called Dhandesh,
came to Fatehpur in the 46th year of
his reign, corresponding to 1601 A.D.,
and proceeded from thence to Agra."
On the opposite side is inscribed “Isa
(Jesus), on whom be peace, said: ‘The
world is a bridge, pass over it, but
build no house on it. The world en-
dures but an hour, spend it in devo-
tion.'" The doors of this great gate-
way are studded with horse-shoes, affixed
b the owners of sick horses who im-
p ore the prayers of the saint for their
recovery. From the steps, or better
still, from the summit of the gate, may
be seen the villages of Sikri and Fateh-
pur, and a tract of dry and barren
country. It is supposed that it was
the want of water which caused Fateh-
pur to be deserted. In front of the
steps are some Turkish baths; N. of
the Dargah and outside the mosque
are the houses of the brothers Abu ’l
Fazl and Faizi, the famous and learned
favourites of Akbar and followers of his
new religion. These are now turned
into a boys’ school. They consist of
several rooms ; in one Hindu and Urdu
are taught, in another English, and in
a third Persian and Arabic. What is
now the English class-room was the


180 ROUTE 10.
India
AGRA TO BINDRABAN
zenana. To the W. of Buland Dar-
wazah is a large well, into which boys
and men spring from the walls, from
heights varying from 30 to 80 ft. A
Mela, or fair, commences on the 20th
of Ramzan, the anniversary of the
saint’s death, and lasts for 8 days.
A little to the N.E. of the Record
Office is the Hakim, or doctor's house,
and a very large and fine Hummam,
the walls and ceilings of which are
richly ornamented with stamped plaster-
work. To the rt. on leaving and ad-
joining the Nusseerabad road is a spa-
cious and interesting Baoli, from which
the baths and this part of the city were
supplied. Leading to a. well at one
end is a broad staircase enclosed on
each side by rooms. Around the well
are chambers for Persian wheels for
drawing the water.
The Nusseerabad road is stone paved,
and leads through the market to the
Tehra Gate. On the outside is a tomb
with small mosque and ’ldgah, but
they are not of much importance.
ROUTE 10
AGRA T0 BINDRABAN BY ACHNERA
Juno. AND MUTTRA (with excur-
sions to Mahaban and Dig).
Achnera june. sta. (17 m.W. of Agra),
on the B. B. and C. I. Rly. (832 m.
from Bombay, see Rte. 6).
From Achnera to Muttra is 23 m.,
from Hathras junc. (97 m. S. of Delhi)
to Muttra is 29 m.
MU'I‘I'RA (or Mathura) junc. sta.,
D.B., in the cantonments S. of the city
(the town rly. sta. is on the branch line
to Bindraban, 8 m. distant, see below).
Pop. 60,000. The city stretches for
about 1!; m. along the ri ht bank of
the Jumna. The Fort, re%uilt in Ak-

bar’s time, is in the dentre: only the
substructure remains. The Jail and
Collector’s Office are 12 m. to the S.
beyond the town, and 1 m. to the W.
of the town is a Jain temple and a
large mound of bricks called Chaurasi'
Tila. In a line with the Jain temple,
but bordering on the town, is the Katra.
mound (see below), and about 5 m. to
the S. is another mound called Kankali,
and to the S.W., at distances varying
from I]; m. to 1 m., are five mounds
called the Ohaubaxah mounds.1 There
are 3 Churches—the Anglican “Christ
Church," the Roman Catholic Church,
and a Presbyterian Church. The former
contains several interesting monu-
ments. _
The city is entered by the Hardinge
Gate, also called Holi Gate, built by
the municipality. The finely-carved
stonework facades of the better class of
houses are well worthy of inspection,
and are one of the peculiarities of the
city.
The River and Ghats. —Even in the
beginning of May the Jumna is here
300 yds. broad. There is a paved street
the whole way along it, with bathing
ghats, descending to the water, and
ornamental chabutarahs, or platforms,
and small but well-proportioned pa-
vilions. Generally speaking, the men
bathe at separate ghats from the
women.
The river is full of turtles, some of
them very large, poking their long
necks and heads out to be fed. About
80 yds. W. of the bridge is the fine
House of the Guru Parshotamdas.
Then comes another belonging to a
Guzerati, called Ballamdas. Opposite
to this, on the farther bank of the river,
is the flourishing village of Hans Ganj,
or “Swan borough," and N. of this
again is a stone tower, 55 ft. high,
called the Sati Burj, because when
Hans was killed by Krishna, his widow
committed sati here. Growse, p. 97,
says it was the wife of Rajah Bhar
Mal, of Amber, mother of Bhagwan-
das, who built it in 1570 AJ). The
traveller now descends several steps to
1 All these places will be found mentioned
by General Cunningham in vol. iii. of his A'rch.
Survey Reports, p. 13, and also in vol. i. p. 233.


ROUTE 10.
MUTTRA 181
the Bisraut Ghat, a little N. of the Sati
Burj, and so to a sort of square, where
the Rajahs are weighed against gold.
There is a small white marble arch
here, close to the river. Beyond this
is a ghat built by Jai Sing, of J eypore,
and the enormous house and temple
belon ing to Seth Lakshman Das, ale.
son 0 Seth Govind Das.
The Jumma Musjid, once covered
with encaustic tiles, stands high. Its
court is 14 ft. above the level of the
street. On either side of the facade of
the gateway are Persian lines. The
chronogram gives the date 1660-61.
Over the facade of the mosque proper
are the 99 names of God. At the sides
are two pavilions roofed in the Hindu
manner. There are four minarets, which
are 132 ft. high. At the entrance to
the W. of the town is the 'Idgah (the
glazed tiles should be observed), and
about i In. to the W. of the town is
The Katra, which is an enclosure
like that of a sarai, 804 ft. long by
653 ft. broad. Upon a terrace stands
a great red stone mosque, the most
conspicuous object in a distant view of
Muttra. There is another terrace 5 ft.
lower, where are votive tablets in the
Nagri character, dated Samwat 1713-
20. On this site stood the great
temple of Kesava. Rao, which Tavernier
saw in the beginning of Aurangzib’s
reign, apparently about 1659 A.D., and
which he describes as very magnificent,
adding that it ranked next after the
temples of Jagannath and Benares
(Travels, pt. ii. bk. iii. ch. 12, French
ed., and Cunningham, Reports, vol. iii.
p. 15.) In the Katra mound a number
of Buddhistic remains have been found
by General Cunningham and others,
including a broken Buddhist railing
pillar, with the figure of Maya Dcvi
standing under the Sal tree, and also
a stone on which was inscribed the
well-known genealogy of the Gupta
dynasty, from Shri Gupta, the founder,
down to Samudra Gupta, where the
stone was broken off. He also found
built into the wall of a well, one of the
peculiar curved architraves of a Bud-
dhist gateway, and an inscription on
the base of a statue of Shakya dated
Samwat 281, or 224 A.D., in which

the Yasa Vihara is mentioned. Two
capitals of columns, one no less than 3
ft. in diameter, were also found. A
fragment of the larger one is still to be
seen lying inside the gateway. At the
back of the Katra is a modern temple
to Kesava, and close by is the Potata-
Kund, a tank in which Krishna's baby
linen was washed. This tank is faced
throughout with stone, and has flights
of stone steps down to the water. There
is also a very steep ramp down where
horses 0 to be washed.
In t e New Museum, erected by
public subscription, at the suggestion
of Mr. Mark Thornhill, is the carving
which Mr. Growse calls, p. 101, “ the
most refined and delicate work of the
kind ever executed."
The best piece of sculpture in the
Museum is the Yasa-ditta statue of
Buddha. The face is really beautiful,
more artistic than that of any figure
yet discovered, but the nose has been
roken ofl' ; the most curious object is
a carved block representing a Bacchanal
group. Immediately opposite are the
Public Gardens, and a little farther
on is the Jail. ' _"
When Fa Hian travelled in the end
of the 4th century and the beginning
of the 5th, he halted a whole month at
Muttra, and found that there were 20
Buddhistmonasteries with3000 monks ;
but when Hiouen Thsang visited the
place in 634 A.D. the number had de-
clined to 2000, whence it appears that
Buddhism was even then on the wane.
It had wholly disappeared when Mah-
mud of Ghazni came to Muttra in 1017
A.D. He remained there 20 days, pil-
laged and burned the city, and carried
off five golden idols, whose eyes were of
rubies, worth 50,000 dinars=£25,000.
A sixth idol of gold weighed 1120 lbs.,
and was decorated with a sapphire
weighing 300 Mishkals, or 35 lbs.
There were also 100 idols of silver,
each of which loaded a camel. The
idols together were worth not less than
£300,000. The Brahman temple of
Kesava Rao was built on the very site
where the great Buddhist monastery
Yasa Vihara stood. _
Near the Jail stood a mound, 1n
removing which to provide a site for


182 ROUTE 10.
India
AGRA TO BINDRABAN
the Collector’s Office and Magistrates’
Courts, the most extensive discoveries
were made. It appears that on it
stood two Buddhist monasteries, the
Huvishka and the Kunda-Suka Vihara.
The latter is the place where the famous
monkey which made an offering to
Buddha jumped into the tank and
was killed. At this mound statues of
all sizes, bas-reliefs, pillars, Buddhist
rails, votive stupas, stone umbrellas,
and inscriptions have been found.
One inscription is of the 1st century
13.0. The earliest is of the Satrap
Sandasa, and the next of the great
King Kanishka in the year 9. The
left hand of a colossal Buddha has
been found, the figure of which must
have been 24 ft. high. The most
remarkable piece of sculpture is that
of a female, rather more than half
life size, whose attitude, and the
position of whose hands resembles
those of the famous Venus of the
Capitol. Cunningham says it is one
of the best specimens of unaided
Indian Art.
In the Chaubarah mounds, 1% m. to
the S.W. of the city, measuring from
the gateway of the Katra, was found
a golden casket, now in the possession
of Mr. F. S. Grrowse.l
The most important discoveries at
Muttra have been made by Dr. Fiihrer
during his excavations at the Kankadi
Tila. mound, which he looks upon as
the site of the Upagupta monastery
mentioned by Hiouen Thsang. The
remains of one Vaishnava and two Jain
temples, and a Jain stupa, some 49 ft.
8 in. in dia., have been brought to
light, and besides some hundreds of
most valuable sculptures, stupa rail-
ings, panels, etc., on many of which
are inscriptions dating back before
the time of Christ. The discover-
ies prove that the national Indian
arts of architecture and sculpture
flourished in a high degree at Muttra,
and have led to the conclusion that
play-acting was practised very early in
the city of the gods. All the objects

discovered have been deposited in the
Lucknow Museum,1 where they can be
examined by visitors.
[Mahaban is about 6 n1. S.E. of
Muttra, on the left bank of the J umna,
and is reached by a good road. It is a
very ancient town and place of pil-
grimage, and first emerges into modern
history in the year 1017 A. 1)., when it
shared the fate of Muttra, and was
sacked by Mahmud of Ghazni. The
Hindu prince is said, when the fall of
the town became inevitable, to have
solemnly slain his wife and children,
and then committed suicide. In 1234
a contemporary writer mentions Maha-
ban as one of the gathering places of
the imperial army sent by Sham’s-ud-
din against Kalinjar. It is incidentally
referred to by the Emperor Babar in
1526.
The country round about it, although
now bare of woods, appears to have
once been literally Mahaban, “ a great
forest.” Even as late as 1634, the
Emperor Shah J ehan held a hunt here,
and killed four tigers. This ancient
woodland country fringing the sacred
J umna is the scene of very early reli-
gious legends. In Sanscrit literature
it is closely associated with Gokul,
about a mile off, overhanging the
Jumna. Indeed, the scenes of the
youthful adventures of Krishna, as-
cribed in the Puranis to Gokul, are
actually shown at Mahaban, about a
mile from the river. Gokul seems to
have been originally the common name
for the whole, although it is now re-
stricted to what must have been the
water-side suburb of the ancient town.
The ruins of Mahaban rise as a hill of
brick and mud, covering about 30 acres,
the site of the old fort. The architect-
ural remains combine Buddhist and
Hindu forms.
The most interesting relic at Maha-
ban is the so-called Palace of Nanda,
the foster-father of the changeling
Krishna. It consists of a covered
court, re-erected by the Mohammedans
in the time of Aurangzib from ancient
Hindu and Buddhist materials to serve
1 For the many other discoveries made in
different mounds near Muttra reference must
be made to Cunningham‘s Report, vol. iii.,
where they are detailed at great length.
1 See illustrated description in Proceedings
of the Archwol. Dept. of the N. W. P.


ROUTE 10.
DIG 183
as a mosque, and is divided into 4 aisles
by 5 rows of 16 pillars, 80 in all, from
which it takes its popular name of
Assi Kharnba, or the “ Eighty Pillars."
Many of the capitals are curiously
carved with grotesque heads and squat
figures. Four of them are supposed
to represent by their sculptures the four
ages of the world. The pillar known
as the Surya Yug, or “Golden Age,”
is covered with rich and beautiful
carving; that known as the Dwapar
Yug, or “ Second Age " of the world is
adorned with almost equal profusion.
The Treta Yug, or “Third Age,” is
more scantily carved; while the Kali
Yug, or present “Iron Age ” of the
world is represented by a crude un-
sculptured pillar.
In the Palace of Nanda are laid the
scenes of Krishna’s infancy. His
cradle, a coarse structure covered with
red calico and tinsel, still stands in
the pillared hall, while a blue-black
image of the sacred child looks out
from under a canopy a ainst the wall.
The churn in which rishna’s foster-
mother made butter for the household
is shown, and consists of a long bamboo
sticking out of a carved stone. A spot
in the wall is pointed out as the place
where the sportive milkmaids hid
Krishna's flute. One pillar is said to
have been polished by his foster-
mother's hand, as she leant against it
when churning, and others have been
equally polished by the hands of genera-
tions of pilgrims.
From the top of the roof there is a
view over mounds of ruins, with the
Jumna beyond showing its waters, at
intervals, amid an expanse of sand,
high grasses, and rugged ravines.
Mahaban is still a very popular place
of pilgrimage among the Hlndus. Thou-
sands of Vishnu worshippers, with yel-
low-stained clothes, yearly visit the
scenes of the infancy of the child~god.
The anniversary of Krishna’s birth is
celebrated during several days in the-
month of Bhadon (August) by a vast
concourse of eople.
The riversirpie village of Gokul, where
Vishnu first appeared as Krishna, has
few relics of antiquity. Its shrines and
temples are quite modern. It is ap-

proached, however, by a lofty and
beautiful flight of steps (ghat) from the
river, and for more than three centuries
it has been the headquarters of the
Vallabhacharya sect, or Gokulastha
Gusains, whose founder preached here.
Many thousands of pilgrims, chiefly
from Guzerat and Bombay, yearly re-
sort to this centre of their faith, and
have built numerous temples of a
rather tasteless type]
[From Muttra a traveller with plenty
of time may make an expedition to Dig,
or Deeg, a town in the territory of the
Rajah of Bhurtpur, 24 In. W. from
Muttra by a good road, and should he
be going S., he might rejoin the railway
at Bhurtpur, 22 m. farther; but he
should make all arrangements for the
journey before leaving Muttra. At the
village of Govardhan, about 14 m., is
a celebrated hill, which was upheld
by Krishna on one finger to shelter
the cowherds from a storm excited by
Indra as a test of Krishna’s divinity.
Here, on the rt., is the burial-place of
the Bhurtpur Rajahs, a striking group
of tombs, temples, and ghats built on
the margin of two vast tanks, one of
which, called the Munusa Gunga, is
the resort of thousands of pilgrims
during the annual autumn fair. The
chief chattris are those of Buldeo Sing,
and of Suraj Mall, the founder of the
dynasty, and his wives ; also of Rand-
hir and Bala Diva Sing. Most of them
show good specimens of carving. Fer-
gusson says of one of the temples, built
in Akbar’s reign : “ It is a plain edifice,
135 ft. long b 35 ft. wide, externally,
and both in plan and design singularly
like those Early Romance churches
that are constantly met with in the S.
of France, belonging to 11th and 12th
centuries. ”
For 3 m. before reaching Dig the
road forms a sort of causeway above a
very low, flat country.
At Digit: (or Deeg) the chief object
of interest is the splendid Palace, or
rather group of palaces, built by Suraj
Mall of Bhurtpur. Though his grand
design was never completed, it surpasses
all the other fortified palaces 1n the
Rajput states for grandeur of concellh‘m


184 ROUTE 10.,
I ml'ia
AGRA TO BINDRABAN
and beauty of detail. Fergusson greatly
admires this palace, and says: “The
glory of Deeg consists in the cornices,
which are generally double, apeculiarity
not seen elsewhere, and which for extent
of shadow and richness of detail surpass
any similar ornaments in India, either
in ancient or modern buildings. The
lower cornice is the usual sloping en-
tablature almost universal in such
buildings. . . . The upper cornice,
which was horizontal, is peculiar to Deeg,
and seems designed to furnish an ex-
tension of the flat roof which in Eastern
palaces is usually considered the best
apartment of the house; but whether
designed for this or any other purpose,
it adds singularly to the richness of
the effect, and by the double shadow
affords a relief and character seldom
exceeded even in the East.” The chief
pavilions are the Gopal Bhawom (where
travellers are allowed to lodge, and from
the roof of which there is a fine view),
which stands E. of the fine Kachcha
Tank ; the wal Bhawan, N.E. of this,
a fine hall 20 ft. high ; the Sumj
Bhawan, S., 88 ft. long; the Elude
Bhawzm, W. ; and the Kishn Bhawa'n,
S.E. All these are highl decorated,
and between and aroun them are
lovely gardens. Beyond and adjoining
the gardens is the large Rap Saugar
Lake.
The W. gate of the Port (there are
two gates) is i m. from the Gopal
Bhawan : it has 12 bastions, and a ditch
50 ft. broad. Beyond this is a natural
mound, about 70 ft. high, and beyond
that a building which serves as a prison.
The walls are very massive and lofty.
There are 72 bastions in all. On the
N.W. bastion, about 80 ft. high, is a
very long cannon.
Dig is celebrated for the battle fought
on the 13th November 1804, in which
General Frazer (see Mill, vol. vi. p. 593)
defeated Jeswant Rao Holkar’s army.
The British took 87 pieces of ordnance
in this battle, and lost in killed and
wounded about 350 men. The remains
of Holkar’s army took shelter in the
fort of Dig.
On the 1st December following, Lord
Lake joined the army before Dig, and
immediately commenced operations to

reduce that town. On the night of the
23d his troops captured an eminence
which commanded the city, but not
without considerable loss. The enemy,
however, evacuated Dig on the follow-
ing day and the fort on the succeeding
night, and fled to Bhurtpur.]
6 m. from Muttra is Bindraban sta.
(properly, Vrindaban, literally, a forest
of tulsi plants), the place to which
Krishna removed from Gokul.
There is no reason to believe that
Bindraban was ever a great seat of
Buddhism. Its most ancient temples,
four in number, date only from the 16th
cent., “while the space now occupied
by a series of the largest and most
magnificent shrines ever erected in
Upper India was 500 years ago an
unclaimed belt of woodland" (see
Growse, p. 17 4). The four chief temples
are those of Gobind Deva, Gopi Nath,
J ugal Kishor, and Madan Mohan. Bin-
draban is famous as the place where
Krishna sported with the Go is (milk-
maids), and stole their clot es when
they were bathing. The J umna bounds
the town to the E., and winds
pleasantly round it. At the entrance
to the town, on the left, is the large
red temple, datin from 1590, sacred
to Gobind Deva, w ich was almost de-
stroyed by Auran zib, but has been
somewhat restore by the British
Government. “It is one of the most
interesting and elegant temples in
India, and the on y one, perhaps,
from which an European architect
might borrow a few hints. The
temple consists of a cruciform orch,
internally nearly quite perfect, t lough
externally it is not quite clear how it
was intended to be finished. The cell,
too, is perfect internally—used for
worship—but the sikra is gone, possibly
it may never have been completed.
Though not large, its dimensions are
respectable, the porch measuring 117
ft. E. and W. by 105 ft. N. and S.,
and is covered by a true vault, built
with radiating arches—the only in-
stance, except one, known to exist in
a Hindu temple in the N. of India.
Over the four arms of the cross the vault
is plain, and only 20 ft. span, but in


ROUTE 1 l.
185
DELHI TO SIMLA
the centre it expands to 35 ft., and is
quite equal in design to the best
Gothic vaulting known. It is the
external design of this temple, how-
ever, which is the most remarkable.
The angles are accentuated with sin-
gular force and decision, and the
openings, which are more than suffi-
cient for that climate, are picturesquer
arranged and pleasingly divided. It
is, however, the combination of vertical
with horizontal lines, covering the whole
surface, that forms the great merit of
the design " (F ergusson, Arch.)
E. is a modern Temple, built by Seth
Radha Krishna and Seth Govind Das
in the Dravidian style. Europeans are
not allowed to enter. The temple con-
sists of a vast enclosing wall, with three
gopuras, which are 80 to 90 ft. high,
while the gates are about 55 ft. Above
the W. gate is a terrace, commanding
a view of the palace.
This temple is dedicated to Shri
Range, 8. name of Vishnu ; and figures
of Garuda, the man-bird of Vishnu,
are very conspicuous. In the great
court are two white marble pavilions,
one E. and one W. of the tank ; and a
stone pavilion with a flat roof, sup-
ported by sixteen pillars, opposite the
E. gopura.
At the back of a temple which is
of red stone (re aired in 1877 by the
Brit. Gov.), an adjoining it on the
W., are, at two corners, two other
temples which resemble each other.
There is a new temple adjoining this
to the W., built by a Bengali Babu.
It is not tasteful, but has a finely-
carved door.
The Madan Mohan Temple stands
above a ghat on a branch of the river.
Under two fine trees, a Ficus indica and
a Nauclca oriental'is, is a pavilion, in
which many cobras’ heads are repre-
sented. Shiva is said to have struck
Devi with a stick here, when she
jumped off this ghat, and made it a
place for curing snake bites. There is
here a Salagram (a species of Ammonite
worshipped as a type of Vishnu), with
two footprints, 21 in. long. This term le
is 65 ft. high, and is in the shape of) a
cone.
The Temple of Gopi Nath is thought

by Mr. Growse to be the earliest of the
series. It was built by Raesil J i, who
distinguished himself under Akbar.
It resembles that of Madan Mohan,
but is in a ruinous condition. Its
special feature is an arcade of three
bracket arches.
The Temple of Jugs! Kishor is at
the lower end of the town, near the
Kesi Ghat. It is said to have been
built by Nou-Karan, a Ohauhan chief,
in 1627 AJ). The choir has pierced
tracery in the head of the arch, and
above it a representation of Krishna
supporting the hill of Govardhan.
The Temple of Radha Ballabh.—
The shrine was demolished by Aurang-
zib. The ruins are fine. _
ROUTE 11
DELHI 'ro UMBALLA, KALKA, AND
SIMLA
There are two railway routes from
Delhi to Umballa.
(a) The direct line on the right or
W. bank of the Jumna river through
Paniput and Kurnal, 122 m.
(b) The line on the E. bank of the
river, crossing it twice, and passing
through Ghaziabad, Meerut, and Sa-
haranpur, 162 m.
Leaving the central station at Delhi,
the railway proceeds over a vast plain to
54 m. Paniput sta.,ak D.B. The
modern town stands near the old bank
of the J umna, upon a high mound con-
sisting of the débris of earlier buildings.
In the centre the streets are well paved,
but the outskirts are low and squalid.
There are the usual civil offices. The
town is of very great antiquity, beingone
of the places called pats, or prastfms,
demanded of Duryodhana by Yudish-
thira, about 1100 3.0. ' It is famous


186 ROUTE 11.
India
DELHI TO SIMLA
for being the place where three of the
most decisive battles in India have
been fought ; but the silent plain tells
no tale, and shows no sign of the events
that have happened on it.
Here on the 21st April 1526
Babar encountered Ibrahim Lodi.
On the night before the battle Babar
had sent out 5000 men to make a
night attack on the Afghan army,
but this had failed, owing to a
delay on the part of the attacking
force, which did not reach the enemy’s
camp till dawn. With the first streaks
of light next day the Mogul pickets
reported that the Afghans were ad-
vancing in battle array. Babar im-
mediately prepared for action, and
appointed commanders to each divi-
sion. On the right and left of the
whole line he stationed strong flanking
parties of Moguls, who, when ordered,
were to wheel round, and take the
enemy in flank and rear. When the
Afghans arrived at the Mogul lines
they hesitated for a moment, and
Babar availed himself of their halting
to attack them, at the same time
sending his flanking parties, to wheel
round and charge them in the rear.
Babar's left wing was roughly handled,
but he supported it by a stron de-
tachment from the centre, an the
Afghans in the end were driven back.
On the right too the battle was ob-
stinately contested. Babar’s artillery,
however, was very effective, and at
last the Afghans fell into confusion.
They maintained the battle till noon,
when they gave way in all directions.
The rest was mere pursuit and slaughter.
According to Mogul accounts, 15,000
Afghans were left dead on the field of
battle, and those who fled from the
field were chased as far as Agra. The
body of Ibrahim Lodi was found the
same afternoon with 5000 or 6000 of
his soldiers lying in heaps around him.
Babar reached Delhi on the third day
after the battle, and on the Friday
following his name as Emperor was
read in the public prayers at the
Grand Mosque.
The second great battle was fought in
the latter part of 1556 A.D., when the
youthful Akbar, who had just suc-

ceeded his father the Emperor Huma-
yun, defeated Himu, the general of
Sultan Muhammad Shah 'Adil, nephew
of Sher Shah. Himu had 50,000
cavalry, and 500 elephants, besides
infantry and guns; but after a well-
contested battle he was wounded in
the eye by an arrow, taken prisoner,
and put to death. This battle was
decisive of the fate of the Afghan
dynasty called the Sur, and established
the fortunes of the House of Timur.
The third battle took place on the
7th of January 1761 A.D., when the
whole strength of the Marathas was
crushed with terrible slaughter by
Ahmad Shah Durani. All the Ma-
ratha chieftains of note, Holkar
Sindia, the Gaekwar, the Peshwa’s
cousin and son, were present with
their forces. The Maratha army is
said to have amounted to 15,000 in-
fantry, 55,000 cavalry, 200 guns, and
Pindaris and camp-followers, number-
ing 200,000 men. The Afghan force
consisted of 38,000 infantry, 42,000
cavalry, and 70 guns, besides numerous
irregulars; but the Marathas had al-
lowed themselves to be cooped up in
their camp for many days. They were
starving, and on the morning of the
battle they marched out with the ends
of their turbans loose, their heads and
faces anointed with turmeric, and with
every other sign of despair. Seodasheo
Rao, the cousin and generalissimo of
the Peshwa, with Wishwas Rao, the
Peshwa’s eldest son, and Jeswant Rao
Powar, were 0 posite the Afghan
Grand Vazir. T e great standard of
the Maratha nation, the Bhag'wa
Jhunda, floated in the Maratha van, and
there were three Jam'patkas, or Grand
Ensigns, of the Peshwa in the field.
The Marathas made a tremendous
charge full on the Afghan centre,
and broke through 10,000 cavalry
under the Vazir, which unwiser re-
ceived them without advancing.
The dust and confusion were so great
that the combatants could only dis-
tinguish each other by the war-cry.
The Vazir Shah Wali Khan, who was
in full armour, threw himself from his
horse to rally his men, but most of
the Afghans gave way.


ROUTE 11.
187
KURNAL—THANESAR
Ibrahim Khan Gardi, who com-
manded the Maratha artillery, broke
the Rohillas, who formed the right win
of the Mohammedan army, and kille
or wounded 8000 of them. Ahmad
Shah now evinced his generalship;
he sent his personal uards to rally the
fugitives, and ordered up his reserves to
support the Vazir. In this protracted
and close struggle the physical strength
of the Afghans was an overmatch for
the slighter frames of the. Hindus.
A little after 2 P.M. Wishwas Rao
was mortally wounded, and Seo-
dasheo Rao, after sending a secret
message to Holkar, charged into the
thickest of the fight and disa peared.
Whatever the message to Hol ar was,
it proved instantaneously fatal, for he
went off and was followed by the
Gaekwar. The Marathas then fled;
thousands were cut down, and vast
numbers were destroyed in the ditch
of their entrenchment. The village
of Paniput was crowded with men,
women, and children, to whom the
Afghans showed no mercy. They took
the women and children as slaves, and
after ranging the men in lines, amused
themselves with cutting off their heads.
76 m. Kurnal sta., * D.B. This town
is traditionally of great antiquity, being
said to have been founded by Rajah
Karna, champion of the Kauravas, in
the great war of the Mahabharata. It
was seized by the Rajahs of J ind in the
middle of the 18th century, and wrested
from them in 1795 by the adventurer
George Thomas. It was conferred by
Lord Lake in 1803 upon Nawab
Muhammad Khan, a Mandil Pathan.
A British cantcnment was maintained
here until 1841, when it was aban-
doned, probably owing to the unhealthi-
ness of the site, as the W. Jumna Canal,
passing the cit , intercepts the drainage
and causes ma arious fever. A wall 12
ft. high encloses the town. The streets
are narrow and crooked, and the water
is impure. J acquemont speaks of this
town as “an infamous sink, a heap of
every sort of uncleanliness." He
adds; “I have seen nothing so bad in
India, and it is fair to mention that
amongst the natives its filth was pro-

verbial. It has, however, a handsome
mosque overtopping the wall, which is
worth a visit.” The town has now
23,000 inhabitants. To the N.W. of
it is the Civil Station, on the site of
the former cantonment.
Kurnal is famous as being the place
where Nadir Shah defeated the Mogul
Emperor Muhammad Shah in 1739.
He had surrounded his camp with
entrenchments, which appeared so for-
midable to Nadir that he would not
permit his soldiers to attack them.
The battle lasted two hours, 20,000 of
the Indian soldiers were killed, and a
much greater number taken prisoners.
An immense treasure, a number of ele-
phants, part of the artillery of the
emperor, and rich spoils of every de-
scription fell into Nadir’s hands. The
Persian loss is variously stated at from
500 to 2500 killed. The next da
Muhammad Shah surrendered himse f
to Nadir, who marched to Delhi, and
after a massacre in the streets and a
58 days' sack returned to Persia with a
booty estimated at £32, 000,000.
97 m. Thanesar, D.B. As many as
100,000 persons have been known to
assemble here on the occasion of an
eclipse of the moon, when it is believed
that the waters of all other tanks visit
the one here, so that he who bathes in
it at the moment of eclipse obtains the
additional merit of bathing in all the
others. The Tank is about 1 m. from
the rly. sta. (To reach it, it is necessary
to pass through part of the town, see
below.) It is an oblong sheet of water
3546 ft. in length, and is not only the
centre of attraction to pilgrims, but
also the haunt of innumerable wild-
fowl from the pelican to the snipe. It
is surrounded by temples in every stage
of decay, overshadowed by great trees,
and flights of dilapidated steps lead
down to the water on all sides. On
the W. a causeway stretches out to an
island where, partly hidden by trees,
the most perfect of the temples stands.
The ruins of this causeway extend
farther S. to the remains of other
temples. Around the tank for many
miles is holy ground, and popular belief
declares the holy places connected wrth


188 ROUTE 11.
India
DELHI TO SIMLA
the Pandovas and Kauravas and other
heroes to be 360 in number.
The Town is about i; m. N. of the
tank, and beyond it are extensive re-
mains of the Mohammedan Port. The
chief building of interest, and that in
best repair, is the white-domed Tomb of
Shaik Chihli. It is an octagon of
drab-coloured marble, lighted by trellis-
work windows of fine design. It stands
upon a small octagonal platform in the
centre of a larger one—a square—sur-
rounded by cupolas. In the centre of
the W. side is a small pavilion with
deep eaves. It also forms a tomb.
S. W. from here, within a stone’s
throw, is a small mosque of red sand-
stone (the Lal Musjid), supported on 8
columns. The carvingon the domes and
elsewhere is very beautiful and resembles
that at Fatehpur-Sikri. Some of the
trees in the neighbourhood are _very
fine. Between this and Delhi—round
about Paniput—the rly. passes through
the country which from the earliest
times formed the battle-field of India,
and the scene where, over and over
again, her fate has been decided.
123 m. UMBALLA Cantonment junc.
sta. Umballa City and Civil Station*
are 5 m. farther W. (total pop. 79,000).
Theimportantcantonmentswereformed
in 1843 : they cover 7220 acres, and
are laid out with ood roads at rt. angles
to one another, s aded with fine trees.
The centre is occupied by the bungalows
of the residents, and to the W. are the
military lines, and the 'whole is sur-
rounded by extensive Maidans.
The Race-course is on the E. Maidan.
Paget Park, a favourite resort, is on the
N. There are a larger number of Euro-
pean shops than in any town in the
Panjab. It is a second—class municipal
town, and the capital of a district.
The Church, which is in the Gothic
style, was consecrated in 1857, and is
one of the finest, if not the finest, in
India. There is also a Presbyterian
Church, a Hospital Charitable Dispen-
sary, and a cher Asylum.
Umballa and its neighbourhood are
intimately connected with the earliest
dawn of Indian history. The strip of
country included between the Saras-

wati and Drishadvati (Sarasouti and
Ghu gar) is “the Holy Land” of the
Hindu faith, the first permanent home
of the Aryans in India, and the s 0t in
which their religion took shape. ence
the sanctity, even in modern times, of
the waters of the Sarasouti,to which wor-
shippers fiock from all parts of India.
35 m. (from Umballa) Kalka sta., it:
D. B., the terminus of the railway at the
foot of the hills, 2400 ft. above sea-level.
Passengers for Kasauli and Simla here
separate.
(1) For Kasauli, travellers take a
jhampan or pony and follow the old
Simla. road (a bridle-path).
9 m. Kasauli.* This is a canton-
ment and convalescent depot on the
crest of a hill overlooking the Kalka
Valley, and 6322 ft. above sea-level. It
is a permanent station of an Assistant-
Commissioner. The scenery at Kasauli
is beautiful.
This road continues on through
Jutogh (see below) to Simla (41 m. from
Kalka).
[3 m. off across a valley the road rises
to Sanawar, which, however, is not
quite so high as Kasauli.
Here is the Lawrence Military Asy-
lum. From it may be seen Dugshai
and Sabathu, and in the far distance
Simla. The ground was made over to
the Asylum in 1858, in fulfilment of
the wish of Sir H. Lawrence. There
are separate barracks for boys, girls,
and infants, and a chapel. Children
of pure European parenta e take pre-
cedence as candidates for atgimission, as
more likely to suffer from the climate
of the plains, except in the case of
or hans, who have the preference over
211 others. The boys qualify for the
service of Government in various de-
partments. A local committee manages
the College]
(2) The tongs-road from Kalka to
Simla runs E. of the old road; the
stages are as follows :—
Name of Stage. Distance.
Kalka to Dharmpur . . 15 miles.
Dharmpur to Solon . . 12 ,,
Solon to Keri Ghat . . 15 ,,
Keri Ghat to Simla . l5 ,,
Total . . 57 miles.


ROUTE 1 1.
SIMLA 189
The road to Dharmpur is narrow.
[From Dharmpur a road strikes left to
(10 m.) Sabathu, which lies between
the two roads, and is a conspicuous
object from Simla.] After leaving
Dharmpur, there is an excellent road
to the military station of Solon,*
where is a neat D.B. on the E. The
last 3 m. is a very sharp descent. From
Solon it is one long ascent round pro-
jecting rocks: the tongas go fast, the
drivers blowing their horns, which is
necessary, as strings of mules and carts
are continually passed. For the last
10 m. the road winds along the E. side
of deep valleys, and in places there are
precipices which gradually increase in
eight till the Keri Ghat DH. is
reached. This building is perched over
a sheer descent cf 1500 or 2000 ft. The
journey takes about 7 hrs. by tonga.
Coming from the plains the cold of the
evening is rather trying.
57m. SIMLA.* The landupon which
Simla stands was retained by the
British Government as a sanitarium at
the close of the Gurka War in 1815-16,
when most of the surrounding district
was restored to the natives. Lieut.
Ross erected the first residence, a
thatched wooden cottage, in 1819.
His successor, Lieut. Kennedy, in 1822
builta ermanent house. Other officers
followe the example, and in 1826 Simla
became a settlement. In 1829 Lord
Amherst spent the summer there, and
from that date the sanitariuni grew
rapidly in favour with Europeans.
Since the government of Sir John
Lawrence in 1864, Simla has been
the summer capital for India. As
soon as the hot weather sets in, the
Government officers and Viceroy quit
Calcutta for Simla, which is deserted in
the winter. The European residences
extend over a ridge in a crescent shape,
which runs from W. to E. for a distance
of about 5 m.
At the foot of this ridge is a precipi-
tous descent, in some places a com lete
precipice of about 1000 ft., leading own
to a valley, which is watered by several
streams, as the Gumbhar and the
Samali, in which are two waterfalls.
Besides these there are the Pahar, the

Giri Ganga, and the Sarsa streams.
The native bazaar road cuts off one
end of Simla from another. The E.
portion is called Ghota. Simla, the W. is
Boileauganj. The ridge running N.,
well wooded with oaks and rhododen-
drons, is called Elysium. On the
extreme W. of the station is Julogh, a
small military post on the top of a lofty
and steep hill. 1} ‘m. to the E.
of Jutogh is Prospect Hill, 7140 ft.
above sea-level, which is the W. point
of the crescent of which we have
spoken. 1 m. to the E. of this bill is
Peterhofi', the old residence of the
Viceroy, with Observatory Hill and
the fine Govemnwnl House on it 3
furlongs to the W.
The United Service Club lies 500
ft. due S. of Combermere Bridge.
About 2000 ft. to the E. of this Club
is Jako, a hill 8048 ft. above sea-
level. The Bandstand is a little way
to the S. of the Club; and the Mayo
Orphanage is 2500 ft. to the N. by
E. of Jako.
The Public Institutions at Simla
comprise the Bishop Cotton School,
the Panjab Girls' School, the Mayo
Girls' School, a Roman Catholic Con-
vent, and a handsome Town Hall,
besides the Government 0flices. These
occupy several fine blocks of building.
In one are the offices of the Accountant-
General, the Public Works Secretariat,
the offices of the Executive Engineer,
the Superintendent of Works, the
Director-General of Railways. Another
building contains the Legislative and
Home Departments, the office of the
Surgeon-General 0f H.M. Forces, the
Commissariat Department. Another
block is occupied by the Judge Advo-
cate-General’s office, the office of H.E.
the Commander-in-Chief, the Quarter-
master-General’s office, the Intelligence
Branch, and the Revenue and Agricul-
tural Departments. Above are the
Adjutant-General’s office, the Meteoro-
logical Department, the Survey of
India, and many other offices. About 2
m. from these buildings is the Foreign
Office. Not far from it is the General
Post-Office and the Telegraph Office.
In the Court House are the various law
offices. The Town Hall contains the


190 ROUTE 11A.
India
DELHI TO UMBALLA
Municipal Offices and the Station
Library. This building also has a
theatre, a concert-room, and a fine
ballroom. A few minutes’ walk from
the Town Hall is
Christ Church at the foot qf Jako
Hill.
The scenery at Simla is of peculiar
beauty; it presents a series of magni-
ficent views, embracing on the S. the
Umballa Plains with the Sabathu and
Kasauli Hills in the foreground, and
the massive block of the Chor, a little
to the E. ; while just below the
spectator’s feet a series of huge ravines
lead down into the deep valleys which
score the mountain sides. Northwards
the eye wanders over a network of
confused chains, rising range above
range, and crowned in the distance by
a crescent of snowy peaks standing out
in bold relief against the clear back-
ground of the sky. The rides and
walks will furnish endless amusement
to the visitor, who, however, will do
well to be cautious, particularly as
regards the animal he mounts. A
number of people have been killed by
falling over precipices at this station,
and many more have had narrow
escapes of their lives.
Anandale is a fairly extensive plain,
in a valley with beautifully wooded
sides, on the W. of the station. The
Race-course surrounds it, and it con-
tains the Public Gardens, the Cricket
Ground, and some very fine trees. This
is the spot where all open-air meetings
are held. \Nest again of Anandale is
the Glen, a charming wooded valley
with some grassy slopes and fine timber.
The dripping rock should be looked
for in it.
The distances at Simla, taken from
Christ Church, are—Round Jako, 5
m.; the new carriage drive, 9 m.;
Boilcauganj, 22 m.; to the end of
Chota. Simla, 2 m.
From Simla the traveller may make
an expedition to, 4 m., Mushobra, a
pleasant place to spend a few days,
and to
Narkanda and Kotgu'h,D.B. There
he will be rewarded by seeing some
grand scenery. The stages are as
follows :—





Names of Stages. M. Above Sea-level.
Mahasu from Simla 10 8200 ft.
. 15 8200 ,,
Theog 22 7700 ,,
Mutteana 33 7720 ,,
Narkanda 45 9000 ,,
Kotgarh . 54$ (>600 ,,

At Phagu, >0! D.B., in the territory
of the Rana of Kotah, is amagnificent
view of the snowy range.
10 111. E. of Theog are the Khit
Khai iron-mines.
Narkamla, D.B., splendid view.
532 m. Kotgarh.
[Sultanpurgk the old residence of
the Sultans of Kullu, in the Kullu
Valley, is a proached by way of
Simla: it is along and tedious expedi-
tion, but the scenery cannot be sur-
passed for grandeur, and the Deodar
Forests abound in pheasants and other
game. Farther up amongst the high
peaks sportsmen will find ibex and
bears.]
ROUTE 1 1A
DELHI TO UMBALLA BY THE E. BANK
or J UMNA RIVER—MEERUT, SAR-
DHANA AND Sanaaauronn, for Dan-
RA DUN AND Mussovum.
13 m. Ghaziabadjunc. sta. :01 From
this point the E. I. Rly. runs S.E. to
Allahabad and Calcutta.
41 m. Meerut city sta.
44 m. MEERUT Cantonment sta. 1k
(The N.W. Rly. enters the cantonment
at the S.W.) The Cantonment of
Meerut is the headquarters of a division


192 ROUTE 11A.
I nd'ia
DELHI TO UMBALLA
Zafar yab Khan. At his death, 1802,
the Begam gave his daughter in mar-
riage to Mr. Dyce, one of her officers,
afterwards known as Colonel Dyce
Sombre, who in 1862 married Lady
Mary Jervis, daughter of Earl St.
Vincent, afterwards Lady M. Forester.
The Begam was a woman of shrewd
ability, and after keeping up a good
understanding with the British Govern-
ment, her forces were received into
British pay.
E. of the town is a modern English
mansion, built 1834, and called the
Palace, with a grand flight of steps at
the entrance. It stands in a garden of
50 acres, and is commonly known as
the Kothi Dilkusha. Within will be
found two framed inscriptions record-
ing the charities of H. H. the Begam
Sombre in Sardhana. There are per-
traits of the Begam and her friends.
In one she is represented smoking, with
Dyce Sombre as a child beside her.
Also of George Thomas, General Ochter-
lony, Sir C. Metcalfe, Lord Comber-
mere, Colonel Boileau, General Ventura,
and the Begam's butler, etc.
The R. 0. Cathedral is outside the
town on the S. It is an imposing
buildin , standing in an enclosure, sur-
rounde by an ornamental wall. By
the side entrance, on the rt., is the
Begam's white marble monument, made
at Rome. Close by is the R. 0. College,
a low masonry house, which was once
the Begam's own residence. It is in-
tended for the instruction of native
priests, and endowed by the Begam.
There are 50 pu ils taught by the
Italian priest an his curate. The
Begam’s or Sumroo estates lapsed to
Government in 1835.
111 m. Saharanpore junc. sta., at: (R.)
D.B. From ,here the Oudh and Rohil-
cund railway runs E. to Hardwar, Ali-
garh, Lucknow, Ajodh a, and Benares
(see Rte. 16 ; good roa to 40 m. Dehra
Dun, Rte. 17).
This municipal city, with a pop. of
63,300, is the headquarters of the J umna
Canal establishment.
The town was founded in the reign
of Muhammad Tughlak about 1340.
It was called from Shah Haran Ohisti,

Whose shrine is still much visited by
Mohammedans. It was a favourite
place of summer resort of the Mogul
court. In the reign of Shah J ehan a
royal hunting-seat, called Badshah
Mahal, was built by ’Ali Mardan Khan,
the projector of the Eastern Jummz
Canal. Unhappily the canal was
neglected during the decline of the
Mogul Em ire, and was never of much
utility til the district came under
British rule. Sir P. Cautley recon-
structed it, since which time cultiva-
tion has spread on every side.
There is an Anglican church, conse-
crated in 1858; and an American
Presbyterian church, and a Mission
from that body. An old Rohilla fort
is used as a Court House. A handsome
modern mosque has been erected on
the plans of the Jumma Musjid at
Delhi. The main attraction to the
traveller, however, will be the exten-
sive Government Botanical Gardms,
where many valuable plants have been
acclimatised.
Near the entrance by the N. gate is
the Agricultural Garden, and beyond
it to the E. the Medicinal Garden;
beyond this to the S. is the Linnaean
Garden. The main working divisions
are the horticultural department, the
Doab Canal tree nursery, the nurseries
for cuttings, bulbous plants, fruit trees,
and seedlings. There is a Hindu temple
and a tank and wells. The S.E. gate
leads to some salt monuments and
chattris.
Saharanpore is celebrated as the sta-
tion whence the Trigonometrieal Sur-
vey of the Himalayas was commenced.
The snowy peaks add much sublimity
to the view to the N.
161 m. Umballa Cantonment sta.
(see Rte. 11).


aourn 12.
193
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
ROUTE 12
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
79 m. Rajpura junc. sta. From
here a branch line runs S.W. 16 m. to
Patiala, and from that W. to Bhatinda
on the Rewari-Ferozepur line.
33 m. Sirhind sta. The name of
this town was formerly applied to a very
extensive tract, which included the Um-
balla district and the native states of
Patiala and Nabha. Itis the place where
many Afghan princes of Shah Shuja's
family are buried; in Cunningham’s
Archaeological Survey, vol. ii. p. 205,
a very interesting account of it will be
found.
It is mentioned by Firishtah as the
most eastern possession of the Brahman
kings of Kabul. After they were con-
uered by Mahmud it became the
rontier town of the Moslems, whence
its name of Sirhind or Sar-i-hind,
“Frontier of Hind.” It must have
been a place of im ortance as long
back as 1191 A.D., w en it was taken
by Muhammad Ghori and retaken by
Rai Pithora after a siege of 13 months.
At that early date it had a separate
governor.
For the century and a half that in-
tervened between the accession of
Akbar and the death of Auran zib,
Sirhind was one of the most flouris ing
cities of the Mogul Empire. Many
tombs and mosques are yet standing,
and heaps of brick ruins surround the
old city for several miles. In 1709 the
city was taken and plundered by the
Sikh chief Banda, who put the governor
Vazir Khan to death in revenge for the
murder of Guru Govind’s family. In
1713, and again in December 1763,
Sirhind was taken and totally destroyed
by the Sikhs. Even to this day every
Sikh on passing through Sirhind carries
away a brick, which he throws into the
Sutlej in the hope that in time the
detested city will thus be utterly re-
moved from the face of the earth. The
finest and oldest building is the
Tomb of Mir Miran. It is of stone,
and is surmounted by a large central
dome on an octagonal base, with a
[India]

smaller dome at each of the four corners
on a square base. Each of the four
sides is pierced by a recessed doorway
with a pointed arch covered by a second
loftier and larger arch. The dead walls
are relieved by squares of blue enarnelled
tiles. The general elfcct is decidedly
good, and altogether this tomb is one
of the most pleasing and perfect speci-
mens of the later Pathan or earlier
Afghan architecture.
The largest tomb is a plain brick
building. At the four corners are very
small turrets, which look mean beside
the lofty central dome of 40 ft. diameter
which crowns the building. The next
tomb in size is another red brick build-
ing, attributed to Khoja Khan. The
great dome is 36 ft. in diameter outside.
This building is probably of the 15th
century. There is a pretty little octa-
gonal Tomb of Pirbandi Nakshwala (or
the painter). It is on open arches, and
is surmounted by the (pear-shaped dome
of the Mogul perio . The body of
the building is profusel covered with
paintings of flowers, an the roof with
glazed tiles, arranged so that the melon-
like divisions of the dome are marked
by dark blue lines, and the intervals
by coloured tiles laid herring-bone
fashion, beginning with yellowish pale
green at the top and ending with dark
green at the bottom. The only mosque
worth mentioning is that of Sudan
Kasai, to the N. of the present town.
The W. end has fallen down. The
centre space is covered by adome 45 ft.
in diameter.
The Hanelior mansion of Sahabat Beg
is perhaps the largest specimen of the
domestic architecture of the Moham-
medans of the Mo ul Empire. It con-
sists of 2 great pi es of brick, each 60
ft. sq. and about 80 ft. high, connected
by high dead walls.
The great Sarai of the Mogul em-
perors is to the S.E. of the city. It is
now used as a public audience-hall by
the Patiala authorities, and is called the
Amkiurs. General Cunningham believes
that Sirhind was a flourishing town in
900 A.D. But its interest to the traveller
consists in its being a good place for
examining the _
Great Sirhind Canal (opened in 18821.
0


194 ROUTE 12.
India
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
one of the most important irrigation-
works of the British in India.
draws its water from the Sutlej at
Rupar (20 in. distant), and passing
through Ludhiana and Patiala, with
side branches to Nabha Jind and other
native states of the Panjab, eventually
joins the Jumna near Kurnal. It has
an extent of over 2000 m., and cost
nearly £7,000, 000,—a small part being
defrayed by native states.
71 m. Ludhiana sta., D.B. This is
a municipal town and headquarters of
a district of the same name. (Pop. of
44,000, of whom much the greater por-
tion are Mohammedans.) It is a great
grain market, and famous for its shawls
made from Pashmina wool, also for the
manufacture of Rampur chudders. It
is situated near the S. bank of the
Sutlej, 8 m. from the present bed of the
river. The Fort lies to the N.W. of
the city, and a little to the S. of the
Fort is the Shrine of Pir-i-Dastgz'r, or
‘Abdu ’l Kadir Gilani.
The Church and Public Gardens are
to the W. of the cantonment. Ludhiana
was founded in 1480 by two princes of
the Lodi family. In 1809 General
Ochtcrlony occupied it as Political
Agent for the Cis-Sutlej states, and
from 1834 to 1854 the town was a mili-
tary station. Troops were removed in
1854, but a small garrison was left to
occupy the Fort.
The Fort is on an eminence. From
the flag-staff bastion there is a good
view of the Ferozepur road and the
_ adjoining country, with the city to the
E. There is an excellent well of good
water in the Fort, and bomb-proof
barracks for 500 men.
Most of the great battles of the first
Sikh War were fought between Ludhi-
ana and Ferozepur, including Moodkee,
Ferozshah, Sobraon, and Aliwal.
The road from Ludhiana to, 12 m.,
Aliwal is so deep in sand that 4 horses
are required for a carriage. There is
there an Obelisk inscribed “Aliwal, 16th
January 1846 ;" repeated in Persian
and Gurmukhi.
The battle of Aliwal was fought on
the 28th January 1846 (see Cunning-
haanv <U'7:hs, p. 312).
It DB

103 m. J ullunder Cantonment sta., men
A municipal city, cantonment,
and headquarters of a district of the
same name. The city itself (sta. 3 m.
farther N.) has a pop. of 52,000, of whom
the greater number are Mohammedans.
Anciently it was the capital of the Raj-
put kingdom of Katoch before Alexan-
der’s invasion. Hiouen Thsang, the
Chinese pilgrim of the 7th century A.D.,
describes the town as 2 m. in circuit.
Two ancient Tanks are all that is left
of the primitive city. Ibrahim Shah
of Ghazni conquered the city, and
under the Mogul Empire it formed the
capital of the country between the
Sutlej and the Bias. The modern city
consists of a cluster of wards, each
formerly surrounded by a wall. There
is a fine Sarai built by Karim Bakhsh.
The American Presbyterian Mission
maintains an excellent school. The
Cantonment, which is considered a
healthy one, was established in 1846,
and has an area of 7% sq. In. Two regi-
ments and a battery of artillery are
stationed here.
The Public Gardens are in the mili-
tary cantonment, and are nicely laid
out.
It is a good district for sport. Pig-
sticking can be obtained quite near;
black buck are fairly plentiful, and
there is very good snipe-shooting.
The Church is 1} m. \V. of the artillery
lines; it is along building without any
tower.
[The native state of Kupurthalla is
15 in. S.W. Good r0ad.]
106. m. Jullunder City sta.
155 m. AMRITSAR junc. sta.,:tn D.B.,
about i m. S. of the city. A branch
line from here oes N.E. 67 m. to
Pathankot for etc. (see
below).
Amritsar is a city with a pop. of
136,500. It is the wealthiest and,
next to Delhi, the most populous city
of the Panjab, and the religious capital
of the Sikhs. It is also the administra-
tive headquarters of a district. It was
founded in 1574 by Ram Das, the Guru
of the Sikhs, upon a site granted by
the Emperor Akbar around a sacred
alhousie,


ROUTE 12.
AMRITSAR 195
tank, from which the city takes its
name, “ Pool of Immortality.” Ahmad
Shah Durani destroyed it in 1761, blew
up the temple, and defiled the shrines
with bullock's blood. After his retire-
ment the city was divided amongst the
various Sikh chiefs, to each of whom
was assigned a separate ward. How-
ever, it gradually passed into the power
of the Bhanji Misl, who retained the
supremacy till 1802. In that year
Ranjit seized it, and roofed the great
shrine with sheets of copper gilt,
whence it was called the Golden Temple.
He also built on the N.W. the Fort of
Govindgarh in order to overawe the
pilgrims, and surrounded the city with
a massive wall, the greater part of which
has been demolished since the British
occupation.
Amritsar is a centre of manufactur-
ing industry. Its staple is the weaving
of Cashmere shawls from the inner soft
wool of the goat. 4000 Cashmeris are
at work on them, and they cost from
£50 downwards, according to the size.
Rampu'r ehudde’rs are also made here,
silk fabrics of solid texture and beauti-
ful patterns, and carpets (see below).
C'a'rm'ng in ivory employs many artists.
The materials for these manufactures
are, in a great measure, brought from
all parts of Central Asia, and the mer-
chants who bring them may be seen in
their national and highly picturesque
costumes about the town, but more
especially in the caravanserais, which
are well worthy of a visit; and there
may be found Cashmeris, Afghans,
Nepalese, Bokharans, Beluchis, Per-
sians, Tircomans, Thibetans, Yarkandis,
and others. Besides the raw materials
they bring fine specimens of their own
national manufactures and embroideries,
which may be purchased from dealers
in this town as well as in the other
chief cities of India. Amritsar is also
the depot for piece-goods, copper, brass,
etc., for the Central Asian markets.
The City has 12 gates, of which the
only old one is that on the N. side
facing the Ram Bagh. On his way to
the Great Temple, called the Darbar,
or Golden Temple, in the centre of the
town, the traveller passes 2 large
modern Sarais, the Carpet Factory,

which surpasses any other in India,
and more than one small mosque; then
through a deep archway in the centre
of the municipal buildings he enters
the Kaiser Bagh, where stands a. white
marble statue of H.M. the Queen. At
the entrance to the temple precincts
stands the Clock Tower, which over-
looks the tank and the temple in the
centre. The view from here is wonder-
fully picturesque. Before visiting the
temple it will be necessary for the
visitor to take ofl' his boots and put on
soft slippers provided for him at the
entrance on payment of a trifle. It is
also necessary for a policeman to accom-
pany him, in accordance with Govern-
ment rules. The Sacred Tank is sur-
rounded by a tesselated pavement1 of
white marble 24 ft. broad, with ribs of
black and brown, brought from J eypore.
It is 470 ft. sq.2 The buildings sur-
rounding it are called Bungahs, and
are the houses of great chiefs who come
to worship. To the N.W. of the Darbar
Temple is that of Takht Akal Bungah
Sahib (see below), with a gilt dome,
and adjoining it, to the S., is the bungah
of Dhiyan Sing, a plain brick building.
Next to it on the S. is the gorgeous
bungah of Sher Sing, and in the same
direction beyond it and beyond the
small square in which are all those
already mentioned, is the bungah of
Lehna Sing. In the N.E. is the white
bungah of the Rajahs of Patiala and
Nabha, and beyond, outside the enclo-
sure, to the E., are the two gigan-
tic minars of Mangal Sing’s family,
called the Ram Garhiya Minars (see
below).
The Darbar or Golden Temple stands
in the centre of the tank on a platform
65 ft. sq. It is approached from be-
neath an archway on the W. side by a
white marble causeway 204 ft. long,
flanked on either side by gilded standard
lamps.
Except for the lower part of the walls,
which are of white marble (decorated
1 Along this pavement sit hawker-s who sell
beads and miniature spear-heads and quoits,
which the Sikhs are new content to wear in
their puggeries in place of the real weapons,
which they are prohibited from carrying by
the British Government. _
2 See Sir G. Birdwood’s Industrial Arts.


196 ROUTE 12.
India
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
with modern inlaid work), the whole of
the building is encased in gilded copper,
its sides inscribed with verses from the
Granth, written very distinctly in the
Panjabi character. It is entered by 4
doorways, one on each side. The doors
are plated with silver finely wrought.
That on the N. side is the only one
through which Europeans may pass.
The scene within is a most pictur-
esque one. The walls are richly gilded
and painted with representations of
flowers, etc. On the E. side is seated
the high priest, either reading from a
copy of the Granth which lies before
him on an ottoman, or waving a cham‘i,
whilst pilgrims enter and throw ofi'er-
ings of cowries, money, or flowers into
a sheet spread in the middle of the
floor to receive them: then taking
their places around it they sit down
and join in chanting verses of the
sacred volume to the music of stringed
instruments.
Cups of sugar are presented to the
visitor, who may in return make an
oflering of 1 1'. On the roof above
there is a small but richly decorated
Shish Mahal or pavilion, where it is
said the Guru used to sit. The brooms
kept to sweep it out are made of pea-
cocks’ feathers.
. Returning to the gateway, which
has doors covered with massive silver
plates, a staircase will be found to
lead up to the Treasury, in which
is a large chest. This place has 31
pillars or poles of silver 9 ft. long and
4% in. in diameter, and 4 larger ones.
In the chest are kept 3 gilt maces, a
giankhah, 2 chauris, all with gilt
andles, a canopy, weighing 10 lbs., of
pure gold, set with emeralds, rubies,
and diamonds, a pendant of gold,
a coloured plan of the temple, and a
\magnificent diadem of diamonds with
lstrings of pearls worn as pendants;
this was worn by Nau Nihal Sing.
There is also a sort of gilt arch 6 ft.
high. All these are used when the
Granth is carried in procession. In
one corner a large heap of Cowry shells
will be observed. They are ofi‘erings
made b pilgrims.
On t e W. side of the small square
facing the gateway is the Akal Bungah,

with its 'lt dome. This temple was
built in” hefitime of Arjun, the fifth
Guru,“ A low staircase leads to a rbbm
with a projecting window. In the
room is a gilt ark, on the floor of which
are a number of things covered with a
cloth; this is partly removed, and a
large sword is taken out and put into
the visitor’s hand. It is a falchion 4 ft.
long and widening towards the end.
It is said to be the sword of Guru
Govind; a mace also is shown, which
was wielded by one of the Gurus.
In the ark are also the vessels for initi-
ating new members into the Sikh Con-
federacy ; the rite of initiation is called
Pahal. There is the Chm-0m Pahal, in
which the novice drinks the water that
has washed the feet of the Guru, and
has some of it sprinkled on his hair.
There is too the Shamshir Pahul, in
which the novice drinks water poured
on a sword, and has some of it sprinkled
over his hair.
The visitor by passing round to the
S. side of the enclosure can reach the
Darbar Garden, as it is called. It
is 30 acres in extent, and contains
pomegranate, orange, and other fruit
trees, a tank called Kaulsar, and several
small pavilions. At the S. end of the
garden is the picturesque Atal Tower.
The lower room is richly painted, and
is 30 ft. in diameter inside. Devotees
on entering shampoo the step of the
shrine with their hands. A staircase
leads up to 7 galleries; there is then
a wooden ladder which ascends to an
8th,—the entire height of the building
is 131 ft.
This tower is dedicated to Atal Rai,
the younger son of Har Govind, who
is said to have been reproved by his
father for raising the deceased child of
a widow to life. His father said that
his supernatural powers ought to be
displayed in purity of doctrine and
holiness of life, and not in miracles,
whereupon Atal Rai said that as a life
was required and he had withheld one,
he would yield up his own. He then
lay down and died; see Cunningham’s
Sikhs, p. 58.
Outside the Temple enclosure on the
E. are the Ram Garhiya Miners, vast
and grand, but not handsome. The


ROUTE 12.
LAHORE 197
one to the N. may be ascended. At
the top there is a good view, to the
N.W. taking in a white temple to Shiva
at the extremity of the city, built by
Sardar Tej Sing. To the N.E., at 1
in. off, St. Paul’s Church is seen peep-
ing out among woods, close to the
DB. Govindgarh Fort appears to the
W. by N.
On the return drive pass out of the
Ram Bagh Gate (the only remaining
old one) of the city to the Kotwali
Chauk. The Kotwali, or Police Office,
has a handsome front. To the left is
the mosque of Muhammad Jan ; it has
three white domes and slender minarets.
Farther to the N. is the ’Idgah; and
close to it is the mosque of Khan
Muhammad. To the right is a fine
tank, and i m. to the S. are the Public
Gardens, which are about 40 acres in
extent. In the centre is a pavilion in
which Ranjit stopped when he came to
Amritsar. The grounds are well laid
out, and the creepers are beautiful.
The Port of Govindgarh is a short
distance to the N. W. of the city. It is
garrisoned with a battery of artillery
and a company of British infantry. It
was built by Ranjit Sing in 1809, but
the fortifications were traced by the
French officers in his service on scien-
tific principles. There is nothing very
interesting to the traveller.
Amongst other places worthy of
a visit if time permits are the Hall
Bazaar, the Sanka Shar Tank, and
the Govemment and Mission Schools.
[14 m. to the S. of Amritsar is Tarn
Taran, D.B., a place which is esteemed
very holy by the Sikhs. The traveller
will pay 15 rs. for his hired shigmm,
and cave the city by the Chativind
Gate, which is the one to the S.E.
After 50 yds., the Hasli Canal is
crossed ; the road beyond is bad.
From this the Temple and Tower,
which are the sights of the place, are a
third of a mile distant. They are situ-
ated on the E. side of a magnificent
tank, which is kept full of water from
the Bari Doab Canal. This tank was
made by Ranjit when he built the
temple. The visitor will have to take

ofl' his shoes and put on cloth slippers
before descending into the enclosure.
The lower room of the temple has been
handsomely painted with representa- _
tions of trees, while the outside walls
have paintings of gods and goddesses.
The room has a corridor round it, on
the S. side of which is the Granth,
enveloped in silk wrappers, and fanned
by an official with a chaum'.
This place was the residence of the
Guru Arjun, and is olderthan Amritsar ;
unlike the temples at that city, it has
no writings on the walls. There is a
small pavilion with open sides on the
roof. The tank is said to possess
miraculous powers to cure the lepers
who can swim across it. At its N. corner
is a tower built by Nan Nihal Sing.
The neighbourhood is famous as the
stronghold of the Sikhs, and the former
recruiting- ground for their army.
There is a leper asylum outside the
town, and a suburb inhabited by those
infected with the disease, from which it
is said the Guru Aijun himself suffered]
[At Amritsar passengers for Dal-
housie, Chamba, Kangra and Dhurm-
sala change on to the Amritsar-
Pathankot Rly.
67 m. Pathankot terminus sta. (R. ),
DE. A picturesque town with a 16th
cent. Fort. Here a tonga may be pro-
cured for, 34 m., Doneira. Thence by
pony or dooly (in 12 hrs. from Amritsar)
to, 22 m. , Dalhousie, :0: a charming hill-
station and sanitarium 7700 ft. above
the sea, surrounded by forests. The
scenery is very fine, especially in the
neighbourhood of Chamba, D. B., 12 in.
distant.
The scenery in the Kangra Valley
(about 24 m. in the direction of Simla),
whcre tea is grown, is remarkably fine.
A high ridge separates the Kangra from
the Kullu Valley E. (see Simla, Rte. 11).]
184 m. Meean Meer sta.:tr This is
the military station of Lahore (see
below).
187 m. LAHORB junc. sta.,ztr D.B.
Lines run N.W. to Rawal Pindi and
Peshawar, and S.W. through Sind to
Karachi. The rly. workshops are very
extensive, covering 126 acres; over
2000 men are employed. Good houses,


198 ROUTE 12.
India
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
swimming bath, theatre, recreation
ground, and church are provided for
. the employés. A tramway runs from
the rly. sta. to the native town
1 In. W.
Lahore is a municipal city, capital
of the Panjab, the seat of an episcopal
see, and headquarters of a district of
the same name (pop. 176,700). Tradi-
tion says that Lahore was founded by
Loh, the elder son of Rama ; no mention
of it, however, is made by Alexander’s
historians, and no Graeco-Baotrian coins
are found among the ruins.
The first reference to it is in the
Itinerary of the Chinese pilgrim Hiouen
Thsang, in the 7th cent. It seems then
to have been governed by a family of
Chauhan Rajputs, from whom it was
wrested by the Moslems of Ghazni, but
it did not attain to magnificence till
the reign of the Moguls. Akbar en-
larged and repaired the fort, and sur-
rounded the town with a wall, portions
of which still remain, built into the
modern wall of Ranjit. J ehangir also
often resided at Lahore, and during his
reign Arjun Mall,l,Guru of the Sikhs,
compiler of the Adi Granth, died in
prison here. The mausoleum of J ehan-
gir is at Shah Dara, close to Lahore
(see below). Shah Jehan built the
palace of Lahore. Aurangzib built the
great mosque, but in his time the city
began to decline, and was much ruined
by the invasions of Ahmad Shah Durani.
Under Ranjit Sing Lahore regained
some of its former splendour, and
since the period of the British rule,
which commenced in 1849, buildings
have greatly multiplied. Modern Lahore
covers an area of 640 acres, and is
surrounded by a brick wall 15 ft. high.
The moat has been filled in and changed
to a garden, which encircles the city on
every side except the north. A metalled
road runs round the rampart, and gives
access to the city by thirteen gates.
Within the ramparts that surround
the city, in the N. part of the enclosure,
and N. of the city itself, is the Citadel,
usually called the Fort. The Ravi
river flowing W. once washed the walls
of the city, and in 1662 made such
encroachments as to necessitate the
construction of a massive embankment

4 m. long. It now sweeps round
Lahore and passes to the S. at about
1 In. W. of the city.
The Tomb of Anar Kali, “Pome-
granate Blossom ” (a name given to
a favourite lady in the harem of
Akbar, who was also called Nadirah
Begam, or Sharifu-nissa), is an octagon
cased in plaster and surmounted by a
dome. It was for many years used as
the church of the civil station. The
cenotaph, removed from the centre of
the building to a side chamber, is for
some reasons one of the most interest-
ing things to be seen in Lahore. It is
of the purest white marble, and the
words carved on it are so exquisitely
formed as to surpass anything of the
kind in India. On its face and sides
are inscribed the 99 names of God. On
the side, below the names of the Deity,
is written Majnun Salim Akbar, “ The
profoundly enamoured Salim, son of
Akbar,” Salim bein the name of
Jehangir. Then fol ows a Persian
verse. The date, given in letters and
in figures, corresponds to 1599. Akbar
died on the 13th October 1605, so that
this tomb may have been erected about
five years before his death. On the W.
side is another date, above the words
“In Lahore,” corresponding to 1615,
and is probably the date of the building
of the tomb, while the other refers to
the death of Anar Kali. The story is
that Anar Kali was beloved by Salim,
and was seen by Akbar, his father, to
smile when the Prince entered the
harem. As a punishment for this it
is said that she was buried alive ; and
the distich engraved on her sarcophagus
certainly indicates that Salim was her
lover. This tomb is in the civil station,
which also contains some imposing
modern buildings. The chief are the
High Court, the Government College,
the Mayo Hospital (see below).
The Cathedral is a cruciform build-
ing of brick, occupying a very central
site E. of the Museum and Post Office.
The old building, called the Shah
Chriagh is used as the Accountant-
General's Ofl‘ice—the additions were
designed by Mr. Oldrid Scott.
The Museum, called by the natives
’Aja’ib Ghar, is near the Anar Kali


ROUTE 12.
LAHORE 199
Gardens and the Central Post Office.
On a raised platform in front of the
entrance is the famousj'gun called the
Zamzamah, “Hummer,” but the word
also means a lion's roar. The Sikhs
called it the Bhangianwali Top, that
is the cannon of the Bhangi confeder-
acy. The gun was made by Shah Wali
Khan, Vazir of Ahmad Shah Durani,
and was used by him at the battle of
Paniput. After Ahmad Shah left India
it came into the hands of the Bhangi
Misl, and Ranjit eventually got posses-
sion of it, and used it at the siege of
Mooltan in 1818. It was then placed
at the Delhi Gate of Lahore until 1860,
when it was removed to its present
site. The Persian inscriptions on it
give the date of casting, 1762 A. D.
The Museum contains specimens of
the antiquities, arts, manufactures, and
raw products—vegetable, mineral, and
animal—of the Panjab.
In the archaeological department
there is a stone with an inscription of
the time of King Gondophares, who is
said to have put St. Thomas to death ;
the bases of 2 pillars brought by
General Cunningham from Shah ka
Dera, which he thinks to be the ancient
Taxila; various Buddhist sculptures
from the Yusufzai country and else-
where, in which Greek influence is
plainly discerned; an “ancient Hindu"
(more probably Buddhist) pillar about
9 ft. high, with a huge head projecting
on one side, dug up near J helum ; also
two old brase cannon found buried in a
mound of Anandpur in the district of
Hoshiyarpur, thought to be of the time
of Guru Govind. There are only two
relics of the prehistoric age. They are
two finely finished celts found in Swat,
of porphyritic greenstone. The coins
are kept in a strong box, and can be
seen on application to the Curator.
There is a series of portraits, repre-
senting princes and chiefs of the Panjab ;
they are by an Indian artist, and as
specimensof art cannot be much praised.
Among ornaments worn by the people
may be noticed the parak, a sort of
coif used by maidens in Lahaul and
Spiti, in which a number of tnrquoises
are sewn. There is also a good collec-
tion of musical instruments of the

country ; specimens of pottery and
Panjab glass, and of the Koftgari work
of _Guzerat and Sialkot; cups and orna-
ments of vitreous enamel from Bahawal-
pur ; silver inlaid in pewter, and
perforated metal~work from Delhi.
Observe too a dagger with small pearls
set loosely in the blade.
There are good specimens of the silk
manufactures of Bahawalpur and Mool-
tan, and the satinettes are excellent.
Also a curious embroidery of soft floss
silk on cotton called shishdarphulkam',
interspersed among which are small
mirrors ; rude idols hideously painted,
which were worshipped by the ladies of
'the Sikh Court; an exhibition of the
leathern ware of the Panjab ; a collec-
tion of ethnogra hical heads by Messrs.
Schlagentweit ; 1a figures habited in
the costumes of t e people of Lahaul,
Spiti, and Ladakh ; and Thibetan
curiosities, such as prayer-wheels.
In the mineral section will be seen
the model of the Koh-i-Nnr, made
for the Exhibition of 1851. According
to the Hindus, this diamond belonged
to Karna, King of Anga, and according
to the Persians, it and its sister
diamond the Darya-i-Nur, or “Sea of
Light,” were worn by Afrasiyab. The
Sea of Light is now at Telleran in the
Shah’s treasury, which contains the
finest jewels in the world. It is said
that Nadir brought the Koh-i-Nur from
Delhi, and when he was killed it fell
into the hands of Ahmad Shah Durani,
and from him it descended to Shah
Shnja’a, his grandson, from whom Ran-
jit took it on the 1st of June 1813. In
1849 it was made over to the British,
and delivered to the Queen in 1850.
It was re-cnt in London by Costs of
Amsterdam, at a cost of £8000, and its
weight was diminished from 186 carats
to 102,}.
There are also specimens of the
mineral resources of the country.
Among them will be seen iron ore from
Bajor. It is a magnetic oxide of
singular urity. Antimony and lead
are also s own, and gold found in the
sands of the Panjab rivers in small
quantities. Specimens of rock-salt of
two kinds, one from the hills between
the Jhelum and the Indus, and the


200 ROUTE 12.
India
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
other from the hills beyond the Indus
are shown. There is a fair collection
of birds and insects. ,
Lahore possesses a flourishing School
of Art, under the superinten ence of
the Curator of the Museum.
The Anarkali Book Club, 50 yds. W.
of the Post Oflice, is said by some to
have been built by Vazir Khan, by
others, by Ilahi Bakhsh. It is a hand—
some building, with four white cupolas,
and contains some valuable books.
Not far off is the shrine of a Moham-
medan saint called Mauj-i-Darya. Over
the door is a Persian inscription which
saysit is the tombof Saiyad Muhammad
Shah Mauj-i-Darya, son of Nuru’llah,
who was a spiritual guide in the time
of Akbar.
The Native Town and Fort—The
picturesqueness of the old town must
appeal to every one, but to artists
it will be found of especial interest.
The balconies and rejecting oriel
windows of the irregu ar brick houses,
together with the variety and colour
of the costumes of the people, form a
striking picture. Travellers should
not fail to drive through the bazaars
on their way to (or from) the Fort,
entering by the Delhi gate.
A narrow street leads to an inner
gate which opens into a chauk or square,
where is the very beautiful Mosque of
Vazir Khan. It was built in 1634 by
Hakim ’Alau-din of Chiniot, Vazir
of the Emperor Shah J ehan. The brick
walls are covered with beautiful inlaid
work called Kashi or Nakkashi. It is
a kind of mosaic of glazed pottery and
tiles. The colours of the tiles are burnt
in, and they are set in hard mortar.
Over the noble entrance is written in
Persian, “Remove thy heart from the
gardens of the world, and know that
this building is the true abode of man. ”
It was completed in the reign of Shah
Jehan. The architect was Hidayatu
'llah, the faithful servant of Vazir
Khan. In the centre front of the
mos no is the Moslem creed, and in
pane s along the facade are beautiftu
written verses from the Koran. A
Persian inscription gives the date 1646
A.D. From the gallery round the
minaret, about 3 ft. broad, there is a

very fine view over the city, which is
truly Oriental and picturesque.
Leaving the mosque of Vazir Khan,
and proceeding along a street remark-
able for balconies richly carved, the
visitor will come to the Somali Musjid,
or Golden Mosque, which has three gilt
domes, and was built in 1753 A.D. by
Bikhwari Khan, a favourite of the
widow of Mir Mannu, a lady who
governed Lahore some time after her
husband’s death. He is said to have
displeased the lady, whose female attend-
ants beat him to death with their shoes.
The situation of this mosque at the
junction of two streets is picturesque.
In a courtyard behind the mosque is
a large well, with steps descending to
the water’s edge. It is said to have been
dug by Arjun, the fifth Guru. Passing
along the narrow winding street, the
visitor will now come to an open space
called the Hira Mandi, whence is a fine
view of the Fort and the J umma Musjid ;
and turning to the right, under a gate-
way between the fort and the mos ue,
he will enter the pretty garden ca led
the Hazuri Bagh. The Normal School
is in the buildings near the gate~
way. On the rt. (E. side) is the high
crenellated wall of the Fort, and
in its centre is the Akbati Darwazah
(or Hazuri Bagh Gate), built by the
Emperor Akbar. It was formerly the
entrance to the citadel, but is now closed.
The towers of this building will attract
attention by the peculiarity of their de-
sign. The Hazuri Bagh forms an outer
court to the mosque. In its centre is
the Bamhdam', a beautiful pavilion,
built by Ranjit with white marble taken
from the tombs of the Emperor J ehangir
and the Empress Nur Jehan at Shah-
dara.
On the farther (W.) side of it is the
Jumma. Musjid, raised on a lofty lat-
form supported by arches. Avast ight
of steps leads up to the gate of the
mosque. In a chamber above the
archway are preserved the dusty relics
of the Prophet and his family. They
consist of turbans of 'Ali and of his
sons Hasan and Husain, a cap with
Arabic writing on it, the prayer-carpet
of Fatima, a slipper of Mohammed, and
the mark of his foot impressed in a


ROUTE 12.
LAHORE 201
stone. There are also a vestment of
the Prophet, his prayer-carpet, and a
green turban. Besides these there is a
hair of the Prophet’s beard, of a red
colour. There were a dozen formerly,
but all have perished except this one.
There is also some red earth from Kar-
bala. There is a decayed tooth, which
is said to have belonged to one of the
Imams. The mosque was built by
Aurangzib with the funds derived from
the confiscated estates of his eldest
brother Dara Shikoh, whom he killed.
It has consequently never been liked
as a place of prayer. The revenues of
Mooltan were assigned for its support.
Over the entrance is written the Moslem
creed, and then in Persian the date
=1674.
Of the four minarets, all of which
are disfigured by the loss of one story,
only that to the S.W. is open. The
cupolas were so much injured by an
earthquake that it was necessary to take
them down.
The mosque is built of red sandstone,
and the facade of the mosque proper is
beautifully adorned with white marble
flowers. It has 1 large and 10 smaller
archways facing the court, and is sur-
mounted by 3 white marble domes.
The mosque is now very much ne-
glected, from the reasons above de-
scribed. Ranjit made a magazine of it.
Its magnificent proportions excite ad-
miration, and the quadrangle being
overshadowed by fine trees produces an
unusual and very pleasing effect. It
was not till 1856 that the mosque was
restored to the Mohammedans as a place
of worship.
On the N. side of the Hazuri Bagh
are the cremation places of Ranjit, the
Samadh of Kharg Sing, and of Nau
Nihal Sing.
The glittering white building rather
out of keeping with the solemn mosque,
its neighbour, is the Ranjit Sing’s
Samadh, restored in part 1840. It
faces the W. wall of the Fort, and is
a square stucco building on a high
platform of marble. The ceilings are
decorated with traceries in stucco inlaid
with mirrors. The arches of the interior
are of marble, but strengthened with
brick and chunam, and clamped with

iron, by order of Sir D. M‘Leod when
Lieut.-Governor of the Panjab. In the
centre is a raised platform of marble, on
which is a lotus flower carved in marble,
surrounded by eleven smaller flowers.
The central flower covers the ashes of
Ranjit; the others those of four wives
and seven concubines who became satis
and underwent cremation with his
corpse.
Below this mausoleum, and by the
side of the road leading from the
Roshanai Gate to the plain, outside
the Fort, is the Shrine of Arjun, the
fifth Guru, and compiler of the Adi
Granlh, which is read in Ranjit's Sam-
adh daily, in a huge volume over
which attendants reverently wave
chauries.
Facing this building is the Roshanai
Gate of the Port. A steep incline,
made by the English, leads into the
interior, but before ascending it, the
attention of the visitor will be arrested
by the peculiar decoration of the walls
of the Palace of Akbar, which faces
him. The facade is inlaid with a
mosaic of incaustic tiles, representing
grotesque figures of men, horses, and .
elephants, engaged in hunting, and
also the angels, who, according to old
Persian mythology, preside over the
days and months. In spandrels over
arcaded compartments in front of the
part of the palace attributed to Jehan-
gir are four representations of the rising
sun. Other spandrels show cherubs
like those in Christian churches,
which were perhaps borrowed from the
Jesuit church established by Portuguese
missionaries at Lahore. In support of
this it may be said that Bernier men-
tions that Jehangir, in compliment to
the missionaries, placed an image of the
Virgin in a prominent position. It is
worth while walking round the walls
to the l. to study these designs.
The Palace of Akbar is on the ex-
treme E. of the Fort. To it succeeds
a part built by Jehangir, and then a
curtain wall between two hexagonal
towers ascribed to Shah Jehan, to
which Aurangzib and the Sikhs made
additions. I
Near the top of the incline, 1., is the
Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, of wlutc


202 ROUTE 12.
UMBALLA TO LAHORE India
marble, with three domes. Over the
arched entrance into the outer court are
a Persian inscription and date corre-
sponding to 1598 A.D. The inner door
has four large padlocks and four strong
chains. Ranjit kept his treasure here,
and the British use it for the same
purpose. Several sentries are posted
in the inner court, in the passage, and
at the outer door.
Proceeding to the E., the visitor will
come to a small Sikh temple built by the
order of Dulip Sing’s mother.
Close to the Moti Musjid is the Shish
Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, which is
the joint work of Shah J ehan and
Aurangzib. The E. wall of this build-
ing did not exist in Ranjit’s time, and
there was an extensive court into which
he used to pass from the Moti Mosque,
through a handsome folding- door
studded with gilt bosses.
In the centre of the W. side of the
quadrangle is a beautiful white marble
pavilion called Nau Lakha, as it is
said to have cost 9 lakhs or 900,000 rs.
This beautiful work of art is inlaid
after the fashion so well known at
Agra. Between the pillars on the S.
side of the uadrangle walls have been
erected, an thus an Armoury (see
below) has been formed.
The Shish Mahal was the place where
the sovereignty of the Panjab was
transferred to the British Government.
Here too Ranjit held his receptions.
In the small rooms leading to the upper
tower the ceilings are cut into geo-
metrical patterns. These paintings and
the mirror work with which the walls
and ceilings are ornamented were
done by the Sikhs, and ill agree with
the chaste beauty of the Mogul archi-
tecture. The windows look out towards
the dea'mi Garden to the N. On this
lain Ranjit used to hold reviews.
here used to be fountains in the centre
of the quadrangle, and their basin still
remains. In the inlaid work of the
pavilion there were formerly valuable
stones, but these have been all picked
out.
In the Armoury the visitor will re-
mark the round shield of Guru Govind.
It is of rhinoceros hide, and has a
single boss. His battle-axe is also

shown, the blade of which is of
fine Damascus steel. Here too will
be seen the arms taken from the Sikhs
by the English; some of the helmets
are inscribed Akal Sipahi. The long
gauntleted swords are merely used in
fencing. There are many cuirasses
which belonged to the regiments com-
manded by French officers, with brass
cocks upon them. There are also rings
of steel which were used as missiles in
war, particularly by the Akalis. The
crests of these soldiers, called Jikars,
in the shape of a bar passing through
two semicircles, and crowned with a
ball, are exhibited. There are also
some cannon with barrels which turn
like those of a revolver, and a number
of camel guns and an obus, inscribed
in Persian, “Fath ya shahid, 1815,
victory or death." Many coats of
mail will also be observed.
Parallel with the tower of the Shish
Mahal was another tower called Saman
Burj, of great height.
Pass now in an E. direction to the
Diwan-i-Khas. It is a beautiful build-
ing of white marble, supported on 32
columns, and is now used by the English
as a church. There is an aperture in
the Jali or perforated screen, on the N. ,
about 2 ft. sq., at which the Emperor
sat and heard his A'rzbegi read the
petitions, from the roof of a building
now ruined, 24 ft. below.
To the E. of this is the Akbari Mahal,
an ornamented Hindu pavilion, now
used as the apothecary's quarters.
From the Diwan-i-Khas 67 steps lead
down to the ditch between the outer
wall and the N. wall of the palace;
about 20 yds. from this you pass S. to
the Khwabgah-i-Kalan, which is of red
sandstone, but has been whitewashed.
The architraves of the pillars are well
carved in the Hindu fashion with repre-
sentations of elephants and birds, as
are also those of the Akbari Mahal.
Near the centre of the Fort is the
Diwan-i-‘Am (now used as barracks).
The building is of red sandstone,
supported in the centre by 12 columns.
The outer arches have been filled in to
form walls, and the whole has been
whitewashed. In the centre is the
Takhtgah, or “throne place," where


ROUTE 12.
203
EXPEDITIONS FROM LAHORE
the Emperor sat. The ascent is by 12
steps, and there are several rooms be-
hind. In the front of the building are
the remains of a red sandstone railing,
inside which only the nobles could come.
N. of this, where now stands a clump
of trees, was a tomb, out of which a
holy man used to warn the Emperor
that he was mortal.
To the E. is the Hospital, a building
which was erected by Chand Kauwar
for her residence, and there she was
confined by order of Sher Sing, and
put to death according to his commands
by her handmaidens. E. of the Diwan-
i-‘Am and adjoining it is the house of
Sher Sing, which was four stories high,
but only two new remain.
The Central Prison, S. of Govern-
ment House, and at the extreme S. of
the Civil Station, is one of the best
managed in India, and is capable of
holding 2276 prisoners. It is unneces-
sary to describe the building.
Durin the Mutiny, 80,000 cartridges
were ma e by convict mutineers, besides
thousands of sandbags for the siege of
Delhi. The most notable manufac-
tures in the prison are tents, rugs,
carpets, and scarfs. The carpets (only
made to order) resemble those of Persia,
and tradesmen in London and America
purchase them annually to a large value.
In the Lawrence Gardens, which
cover 112 acres, are large varieties of trees
and shrubs of different species. The
visitor will remark the Pinus longifolia,
the Australian gum tree, and the carob
tree Of Syria. There is also a menagerie.
At the N. side is the Lawrence Hall,
built in memory of Sir J. Lawrence in
1862, fronting the road; and the Mont-
gomery Hall, built in 1866, in memory
of Sir R. Montgomery, facing the central
avenue of the gardens. A covered
corridor connects them. Montgomery
Hall contains portraits of many cele-
brated Anglo-Indians.
Government House is at no great dis-
tance from the Lawrence Gardens to
the N. It was the tomb of Muhammad
Kasim Khan, cousin of the Emperor
Akbar. He was a great patron of
wrestlers, and his tomb used to be called
Kushtewala. Gumbaz, or Wrestler’sl
Dome. There are some noble trees in

the grounds, and a good swimming
bath.
Near the S.W. corner of the Civil
Station is a building called Chauburj,
“ Four Towers," which has been a gate-
way to a garden, with 4 minars, whence
its name. This beautiful building is
faced with blue and green encaustic
tiles. The greater part of the dome
has fallen.
EXPEDITIONS FROM Lnnoan.
Shalimar Gardens are 6 m. E. from
the milestone near the Tanksal Gate of
Lahore, whence the measurements are
made to Peshawar and other places.
About § m. before reaching them is the
gateway to the Gulabi Bagh or Rose
Garden, laid out in 1655 by Sultan
Beg, Admiral of the fleet to Shah J ehan.
The Nakkashi work of coloured tiles
on the gate is very beautiful, and hardly
inferior to that on Vazir Khan’s Mosque.
On the gateway is inscribed in Persian:
Sweet is this garden, through envy of which
the tulip is spotted,
The rose of the sun and moon forms its beauti-
ful lamp.
Opposite to the Gulabi Bagh, across
a field, is the Tomb of ’Ali Mardan
Khan, the celebrated engineer, who also
laid out the Shalimar Gardens. Its
lofty archway retains traces Of ex-
quisitely coloured tiles. Fifty yds. S.
of this is the octagonal tomb of 'Ali
Mardan, built of brick.
There are many dargahs and gardens,
to which on holidays crowds of people
go on pilgrimage.
The Shalimar Gardens were laid out
in 1637_ A.D. by order of Shah Jehan.
They are divided into three parts,
in tiers of various levels. The whole
extent is about 80 acres, surrounded
by a wall, with a large gateway and
pavilions at each corner. Canals tra-
verse the garden, and there is a tank
in the centre, with an island and a
passage across to it. There are 100
small fountains in the first garden, and
double that number in the tank. The
trees are chiefly mangoes, and the
garden is laid out in monotonous square
beds. Once, when the cement was m-
tact and the frescoes new, it must have


204 ROUTE 12.
I ndia
UMBALLA TO LAHORE
been a very pretty place, but now it is
decayed and shabby.
On the opposite side of the 'road are
two other gardens, the Sindanwalas
and Misr Birj Lal’s ; and to the E.
there is also J amadar Khushhal Sing’s
garden, and across the road to the N.E.
Lehna Sing’e.

The military cantonment of Meean
Meer is situated 3 m. to the S.E. of
the Civil Station (rly. sta. about g m.
W. of cantonment on Mooltan Rly.,
Rte. 14.)
The cantonment includes infantry
and artillery ractice ranges, hospital,
bazaar, R. C. c apel, racquet-court, etc.
About 2 m. to the N. W., on the rt.
of the road leading to the cantonment
is the Shrine of Meeom Meer, a saint
from whom the cantonment has its
name. It stands in the centre of a
quadrangle, 200 ft. sq., on a marble
platform. Ranjit took away much of
the marble for his barahdari in the
Hazuri Bagh, and to make amends
had the inside painted with flowers.
O_ver the entrance are an inscription in
Persian and date=1635 A.D. The left
side of the enclosure is occupied by a
mosque.
Returning towards the city, the
traveller will pass on the right the
village of Shaka-ki-Ghuri, where are a
number of large tombs, some with
cupolas, but all more or less ruined.
W. of the village, at 300 yds. from the
main road, is the most venerated tomb
in Lahore or its vicinity. It is called
the Tomb of Bibian Pakdaman, “The
Chaste Ladies." This saint was the
daughter of the younger brother of ’Ali
by a different mother. Her real name
was Rukiyah Khanum, and she was
the eldest of six sisters, who are all
buried here, and who fled with her to
Baghdad, after the massacre at Kar-
bala; she died in 728 A.D., at the age
of 90. The road is narrow and bad.
The place is remarkable for a number of
very old Womr trees. It is expected
that the visitor will take off his shoes.
There are five enclosures, and the tomb
of Rukiyah is in the fifth. It is of brick,
whitewashed.

Shah Dara is situated beyond the
Bridge of Boats on the right bank of
the Ravi, about 11 m. to the N. of the
railway bridge over that river. The
journey by rail is 5 m. to the Shah
Dara sta., from which the tomb Q)“ the
Emperor Jehangi'r is 1} m. It is more
convenient to go in a carriage (about
5% m. drive).
A small domed building will be
passed on the 1. This is the tomb of
Asif Khan (see below) ; and shortlyafter
an enclosure will be entered which has
been the sarai or outer court of the
mausoleum. An archway of white
marble, and 50 ft. high, leads into the
court of the mausoleum, which forms
a garden. The passage to the tomb is
paved with beautifully streaked marble
rom Jeypore and other places. The
cenotaph is of white marble, inlaid with
pietra dura work, and stands in the
centre of an octagonal chamber. On
the E. and W. sides are the 99 names
of God, most beautifully carved, and
on the S. side is inscribed, “The Glori-
ous Tomb of His High Majesty, Asylum
of Protectors, Nuru-din Muhammad,
the Emperor J ehangir," 1627 Ad). On
the four sides are exquisite screens of
lattice-work.
Just outside the entrance, and to the
right of it, is a staircase which leads up
to the flat square roof of the building,
covered with a magnificent tessellated
pavement. At each corner is a min-
aret, 95 ft. high from the platform. A
marble parapet ran round the pave-
ment, but was taken away by Ranjit,
and has been replaced by a poor sub-
stitute of masonry. The minarets are
four stories high, and are built of mag-
nificent blocks of stone 8 ft. long.
From the top there is a fine view to the
S.E. over the Ravi to the city.
Altogether this mausoleum is one of
the finest in India. It is vast and
solemn.
The Tomb of Asif Khan, brother of
the Empress Nur Jehan, stands in an
enclosure immediately to the W. of the
sarai. It is an octagon surmounted
by a dome. It has been utterly ruined
and almost entirely stripped of the
lovely Nakkashi work which once
adorned it. In the portals some frag_


ROUTE 13.
205
LAHORE TO PESHAWAR.
ments still remain to show how glori-
ous it once was. The cenotaph is of
white marble. The Tughra writing on
it is extremely fine, and resembles that
on the tomb of J ehangir.
Across the railway W. is the tomb
of Nur Jehan, wife of J ehangir, a plain
building of one story, with four main
arches and eight oblong openings in
the centre, with three rows of arches
beyond. It is huge but ugly.
18 m. W. of Lahore is Shekohpura,
the hunting-seat of Dara Shikoh, the
eldest brother of Aurangzib.
The road crosses the bridge over the
Ravi, and at about 4 m. enters a dreary
tract of long grass and jungle. A
bridge over the Bagh Bachcha, a branch
of the Ravi, is then passed. At Man-
diali Road Chauki there is a good D.B.,
standing 100 yds. back from the road
on the rt., with a pretty little garden.
Here horses are changed.
On the l. of the road is a garden-
house, built by Rani Nakyana, queen
of Ranjit Sing. At the S.W. corner of
the garden is her Samadh, an octagonal
building. The walls are painted with
Hindu mythological pictures. That in
front is of Krishna dancing the Bee
mandal with the Gopis. Over the door
is a picture of the ten Gurus, with an
inscription. Across the road is a very
clean and comfortable house which be-
longs to the Rajah, and is lent by him
to travellers.
The village of Shekohpura contains
about 80 houses, and a ruined fort.
There is good shooting here. About
2 m. from the town is a large tank
surrounded by flights of steps with a
three-storied barahdari in the centre.
A tall minaret stands near an entrance
gateway N. of the tank.

ROUTE 13
LAHOBE TO Pasnawan (N.W. Rly.)
Lahore to Peshawar is 278 m. by the
North-Western Railway, and the time
occupied in transit 21 hours.
5 m. Shah Dara sta. The tomb of
the Emperor Jehangir, 11 m. off, is de-
scribed in Rte. 12.
42 m. Gujranwala sta.,aer (R.) D.B.
This is the town where Ranjit was born.
At 1 m. beyond the station is the
Samadh of Maha Sing, father of the great
Ranjit. It is an octagonal building, 81
ft. high to the top of the gilt ornament
on the summit. Within are the sculp-
tured rosettes or knobs which mark
where the ashes are deposited. The large
rosette surrounded by twelve smaller
ones, is inscribed Sarkar Ranjit Sing.
That nearest the entrance is in memory
of a blue pigeon that fell down into
the flames in which Ranjit and his con-
cubines were being consumed. Other
rosettes mark the ashes of Maha Sing
Padshah, Maharaj Sher Sing, and Sarkar
Nan Nihal Sing J i. There is a narrow
but lofty pavilion, covered with mytho-
logical pictures, among which is one re-
presenting Duryodhana ordering Drau-
padi to be stripped. As fast as the
clotheswere pulled off her shewas super-
naturally re-clothed. At 100 yards
to the E. is the pavilion of Maha Sing,
a handsome building, now used as the
reading and meeting room of the Anju-
man of the town. Close to the market-
place is the house where Ranjz't was born.
In this town is the Barahdari, or
pavilion, of Ranjit’s famous general,
Hari Sing. It stands in 40 acres of
garden and grounds. To the E. is a
pavilion 12 ft. high, full of small
niches for lamps. On the E. wall is a
painting of warriors and elephants,
now almost gone. At 70 yds. to the
N. of the house is the samadh of Hari
Sing. A number of trees have grown
through the platform and are breaking
it up. At the S. W. corner is a pavilion
in which countless green parrots have
their nests. The place where the ashes
lie is marked by a knob shaped like a
budding flower. There are no soil


206 ROUTE 13.
India
LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
knobs. The first picture-on the wall
inside is a portrait of Hari Sing hawk-
ing, with a string of ducks passing over
his head.
62 m. Wazirabad junc. sta. (R.), D.B.
(16,500 inhab.) From here a line runs
N.E. to Siallcot and Jummoo (see below).
This place, founded by Wazir Khan in
the reign of Shah J ehan, became, under
the rule of Ranjit, the headquarters of
General Avitabile, who built a com-
pletely new town on the plan of a
parallelogram, and surrounded by a
wall. A broad bazaar runs from end
to end. Close to the town is one of
the most famous gardens in the Panjab,
laid out by Dewan Thakur Das Chopra.
At Wazirabad is the great Alexandra
Bridge over the Chenab, opened in
1876 by the Prince of Wales.
The Chenab is here a most diflicult
stream to deal with. The floods rise
11 ft. above low-water level, and the
velocity of the current then exceeds
10 m. an hour. The stream is more
than 50 ft. deep, and drives the sand
in all directions ; but the training works
in connection with the bridge have
modified the action of the river and
confined it.
[An expedition may be made by
branch line from Wazirabad to
27 m. Sialkot sta., DE. A town
with militar station 1 m. N. (inhab.
55,000). The Church is a striking
object, having a steeple 150 ft. high.
There is also a fort. The rly. con-
tinues to
52 m. Jummoo sta. This is the
capital of the Jummoo and Cashmere
state, which extends over an area of
79,783 sq. m., with a pop. (1891) of
2,507,240 rsons. This state com-
prises, besi es Cashmere proper, Jum-
moo and Punch. The governorships
of Ladakh and Gilgit include Dardis-
tan, Baltistan, Leh, Tilel, Suru, Zans-
kar, Rupshu, and others. Islam was
introduced into Cashmere during the
reign of Shamsu-din. In 1586 it
was conquered by Akbar and became
part of the Mogul Empire. In 1752
it was con uered by Ahmad Shah
Durani, an remained under the

Afghans till 1819, when it was con-
quered by Ranjit and remained under
the Sikhs till 1845. In March 1846
Gulab Sing, a dogra rajput, purchased
Cashmere of the British for £750,000,
but he agreed to acknowledge British
supremacy and to assist with troops
when required. Accordingly he sent
a contingent of troops and artillery
to co-operate with the English army at
the siege of Delhi in 1857.
The Old Palace at Jummoo, at the
E., close to the city wall, has no pre-
tensions to beauty. It is entered by
a large irregular quadrangle, on the
rt. side of which is a vast reception-
room. The verandah of the small
dining'room overlooks the Tavi, and
beyond the river are hills covered with
jungle, in which are many wild beasts.
To the N.W. of the city is a Pagoda
covered with plates of copper-gilt. A
little to the E. of it is the new alace
which was built for the Prince of ales’s
visit. Close by to the E. is the old
parade-ground, with the hospital and
college to the SE. The Gumit Gate-
way is that by which the city is
entered from the S. in coming from the
river Tavi. A short distance before
reaching it is the chief temple. 2 m.
beyond this gate is a fine garden be-
longing to the Maharajah. From the
Gumit Gate there is a descent of 70 ft.
down a rough road paved with stones,
then the path lies through thick woods.
The most frequented trade-route to
Sirinagar and the Cashmere valley starts
from Jummoo, but travellers are not
allowed to go this way except with
special permission from the Resident at
Sialkot. The usual route for Euro-
peans is by dak from the hill-station of
Murree (see p. 210). The distances to
be marched are long by whatever route
is selected, and special arrangements
must be made which are not possible
for ahurried traveller. Servants, tents,
and a pony will be necessary. De-
tailed instructions for such a journey
are outside the scope of this workil]
l The modern writers on Cashmere are Dr.
W. T. Elmslie, Captain Bates, Dr. T. Ince,
and Mr. Drew. Route maps have been pub-
lished by Mr. John Collett, and Captain
Montgomerie.


ROUTE 13.
ouznnar 207
71 m. Guzerat sta. This is the chief
town“ and administrative headquarters
of a district of the same name. The
town (19,000 inhab.) stands on the
ancient site of 2 earlier cities. The
second, according to General Cunning-
ham, was destroyed in 1303 A.D. Two
centuries after this Sher Shah was in
possession of the country, and either
he or Akbar founded the present town.
Akbar’s fort stands in the centre of
the town. It was first garrisoned by
Gujars, and took the name of Guzerat
Akbarabad. Akbar‘s administrative
records are still preserved in the fami-
lies of the hereditary registrars. In
1741 the Ghakkars established them-
selves at Guzerat, and in 1765 the
Sikhs acquired the country. The Civil
Station, in which is the D.B., lies to
the N. During the reign of Shah
J ehan, Guzerat became the residence of
a famous saint, Pir Shah Daulah, who
adorned it with numerous buildings.
The Battle-field. —Thedecisive battle
of Guzerat was fought 011 the 21st of
February 1849. The village of Kalra is
2§ m. from the D.B. It was the key of
the Sikh position. It is a village of
70 houses in a flat plain, where there
are no natural advantages to assist
an army in maintaining its position.
Thence the Sikhs retreated round the
W. and N. sides of the town of Guzerat.
Lord Gouvh’s camp on the 18th and
19th of February was 9 m. to the S. of
Guzerat, near the Chenab river. Thence
he advanced with seven brigades of
infantry and a body of cavalry on
each flank.
The advance began at 7 A.M. The
artillery went to the front and poured
their fire on the Sikh army, which was
drawn up a little to the N. of Kalra,
andconsisted of six brigades of infantry,
with 59 guns, and four great bodies of
Sikh cavalry, with 4000 Afghan horse
(whereas the English army consisted of
25,000 and nearly 100 guns). The
heavy English guns opened on the
Sikhs at 1000 yds. and crushed their
lighter metal. As the Sikh fire ceased,
the English field batteries were con-
stantly pushed forward. By 11.30 A.M.
most of the Sikh guns had been with-
drawn, dismounted, or abandoned.

The Britishv Infantry then advanced,
deployed, and carried the position.
Next day General Gilbert, with
12,000 men, pursued the enemy, and
at Rawal Pindi received the submission
of the entire Sikh army. Thus ended
the second Sikh war.
In the cemetery at Shah Jahangir,
so~called from a Fakir of that name,
are the tombs of those who fell in the
battle. Beyond to the E. are two
ngisques, one of which is rather remark-
a e.
83 m. Lala Muss. junc. sta. (R.) A
branch line runs W. on the left bank
of the Jhelum river to Kundian junc.
on the Sind-Saugar Rly. (Rte. 14). A
traveller having time at his disposal
can from this line visit the battle-field
of Chilianwala, the salt-mines near
Pind Dadan Khan, and the fountain
and temples at Katas.
103 m. Jhelum‘staak is a modern
municipal town, and the administra-
tive headquarters of a district of the
same name, but appears to have been
built on an ancient site. The Civil
lines and Cantonment lie 1 m. E. and
W. of the town respectively. Many
ancient pillars have been dug up near
the rly. sta., and amongst them one
with a human face in the Greek style,
which is now in the Lahore Museum.
One is to be seen in the railway
engineer’s compound.
[Rotas is 11 m. N.W. of Jhelum.
Carriage-road to the Kahan river, 8 m. ,
and after that cart track along the
river, and below barren hills 200 ft.
high a bridle- th. This famous fort
stands on a hi 1 overlooking the gorge
of the Kahan river. Its walls extend
for 3 m., in laces from 30 to 40 ft.
thick, and enc ose about 260 acres. It
was built by Sher Shah as a check on
the Ghakkar tribes.
The fort is partly hidden by the
hills, stands high (130 ft.) above the
ravine, and it is quite possible to miss
the gateway, which is to the left of the
river. The entrance, up a steep path, is
by the Khawas Khan Gate, on the
N.E. of the hill. The Suhali Gate


210 ROUTE 13.
India
LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
Rawal Pindi is also the starting-
place for Cashmere by Murree and the
J helum Valley. A tonga-road runs all
the way to Sirinagar; this is the best
route into the country (see p. 206).
Leaving Rawal Pindi by rail from
Attock, Margala is passed 3 m. before
reaching the station of Kala ke Sarai.
On an eminence to the S. is the monu-
ment of General John Nicholson ;
“Erected by friends, British and
native, to the memory of Brig-Gen.
John Nicholson, C.B., who, after tak-
ing a hero’s part in four great wars,
fell mortally wounded, in leadin to
victory the main column of assau t at
the great siege of Delhi, and died 22d
September 1857, aged 34.”
194 m. Kala ke Sarai sta., D.B. At
6 m. from this place is the beautiful
village of Wah.
203 m. Hasan Abdal sta., D.B.,
famous for the so-called Lalla Rookh’s
tomb, which is close by ; also on account
of the spring of Babi Wali, or as the
Sikhs call him, Panja Sahib. This is
one of those attractive places to which
each religion in succession has attached
its legends, and it has been ap ropri-
ated in turn by Buddhist, Bra man,
Mohammedan, and Sikh. The shrine
of this saint is on the peak of a- lofty
and recipitous hill, at the N.W. foot
of w ich numerous springs of limpid
water gush out of the ground and form
a rill which falls into the Wah rivulet,
Q m. to the W. of Hasan Abdal.
At the E. entrance into the town on
the right hand, about i m. from the
DH, is the tomb of one of Akbar-'8 wives,
which the ignorant people say is that
of Nur Jehan. The road to it passes
through roughly paved streets, and then
leads down to a clear rapid brook,
crossed by stepping-stones, a few yds.
beyond a Sikh temple, near a beautiful
pool of water, canopied with mulberry
and pipul trees of large size, and full
of mahsir, some of them as bi as a 20
lb. salmon. Walk now 250 yds. along
the stream, past some ruins of the time
of Jahangir, and past another pool to
the Tomb, which is very plain, and
stands in a garden surrounded bya wall,
with four slim towers, one at each

corner: the enclosure is well filled with
trees, amongst which is a cypress more
than 50 ft. high. Fron; Hasan Abdal
branches off the road to Abbotabad,
D. B., a pretty hill—station and head-
quarters of the Frontier Force Comm and.
It is named from a Lieut. James Abbot,
who reduced the district to order in 1868.
232 m. Attock Bridge sta. (or At-
tak), DB, 1} m. below the town and
Fort. Attock has seen the passage of
every conqueror who has invaded India
from the N.W. from the time of Alex-
ander the Great downwards ; but inde-
pendent of historical interest, the place
is inviting to the traveller as being one
of the most picturesque in India.
It is a small town and fortress of
some military importance, and head-
quarters of a subdistrict of the same
name (pop. 2000). The Fort, situated
on a commanding height, overhang-
ing the E. bank of the Indus, and
a little to the S. of the point where it
receives the Kabul river, is very ex-
tensive and has a most imposing appear-
ance. It was built by the Em eror
Akbar in 1583, who also establishe the
ferry which it commands. Ranjit Sing
occupied the place in 1813, and it re-
mained in the hands of the Sikhs till
the British conquest of 1849. It is now
held by a small European detachment.
Leave can be obtained to walk round
the ramparts : this is well worth doing
on account of the picturesque views to
be obtained.
The Indus is crossed here by a very
fine Iron Railway Girder Bridge, which
was difficult to construct owing to the
rapidity of the current and the height
above the water. The rails are on the
top of the girders, and there is a passage
for road-trafiic below. Each end is
protected by a fortified ate. The
river has been known to rlse 90 ft. in
flood near the Fort, where the channel
becomes very narrow.
To the N. of the Fort and on the S.
side of a small ravine, overlooking the
united river, at the height of 300 ft.,
is an old sarai, converted into the
artillery oflicers' mess-room.
Another ravine to the S. divides the
sarai from the higher hill, on which is


ROUTE 13.
ATTOCK 2].].
the Fort; and at its E. extremity, at a
distance of about 50 yds., is the English
Church of St. Peter, the top of which is
about 1200 ft. above the sea. The
general view is certainly one of the
finest in India. To the N. are seen the
snow-capped peaks of the Hindu Kush.
Outside the Fort to the W. , and 50 yds.
down, is the tomb of a Diwan of the
saint ’Abdu ’l Kadir Gilani. Itstands in
a small enclosure on the edge of a
cliff.
[Persons wishing to undertake the
somewhat rough journey down the

/.

\ lo


wordy 'Em
. ,_ \
Fuji
ATTOCK
%Mb
5 o to 20 30 40Chains
AILWAV STATION

Il’a [bar 6' Beulall :r.
Attock.
S. of the Fort is a third ravine, which
separates it from the village of Mullah
Tolah.
The hills that line the river near
Attack have round towers and ruined
forts dotted about them, and the Attock
Fort seen from them resembles some
old baronial castle. It crowns a rock
800 ft. high, and descends a consider—
able distance down its sides.
Indus from Attock, via Khusalgarh,
Makbad, Kalabagh, Kafir Kot, to Dcra
Ismail Khan DB. (5 days), should apply
some days beforehand to the Assistant
Commissioner at Pindi, asking him
kindly to make arrangements for pro-
curing a native boat and crew for the
voyage. Dera Ismail Khan is within
a few miles of Bhakkur sta. on the
Sind-Sanger Rly. (see Rte. 14.)]


2 1 2 ROUTE 1 3.
I ndia
LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
235 m. Khairabad sta. (R.) _
251 m. Nowshera sta.,:k D.B., is the
headquarters of a subdistrict of the
same name in Peshawar district, on the
right bank of the Kabul river. The
cantonment is on the banks of the
river. About 2 m. distant on the
Grand Trunk Road is a ruined fort
built by the Sikhs.
Mardan (18 m. from Nowshera) is
the headquarters of the Corpsof Guides
belonging to the Frontier Force.
267 m. Pabbi sta.:k [18 m. from here
is Cherat, D. B., a hill-cantonment and
sanitarium for Peshawar, 4500 ft. above
sea-level. It is on the W. of the
Khatak ran e, which divides the dis-
tricts of Pes lawar and Kohat. It was
first tried in 1861, and since then troops
have been annually moved up with great
benefitto theirhealth. Thetemperature
seldom exceeds 90°, even in the hottest
seasons. A tonga runs between Pabbi
and the foot of the hills, whence abridle-
path of about 5 n1. leads into Cherat.]
276 m. Peshawar City sta.
278 m.Peshawar Cantonment sta., :0:
D.B., Peshawar (84,000 inhab., chiefly
Mohammedans), an im ortant frontier
and garrison city of In ia, is both inter-
esting and picturesque. It stands upon
a plain, stretching towards the moun-
tains, on the 1. bank of the Bara stream,
13% m. S.E. of the junction of the Swat
and Kahlil rivers, and 10$ m. E. of J am-
rud Fort, which guards the entrance of
the Khaiber Pass. (To Kabul 190 m.)
Peshawar is the ancient capital of
the Gandara Province, and has at all
later periods been historically import-
ant ; but although dating back to the
5th and 6th cent., it retains scarcely
any monuments of antiquity. The
modern city has but slight architectural
pretensions. The houses are built of
small bricks or mud, held together by
a wooden framework, and the streets
are irregular and tortuous; the whole
being surrounded by a mud wall 10 ft.
high. It is not fortified, though sur-
rounded by watch-towers, which are
now in ruins or have been converted
into police posts. The Ghor Khatri,

successively a Buddhist monastery and
Hindu temple, is now a sarai. On
rising ground just outside the city, N .,
is a square fort of sun-dried bricks, with
walls 92 ft. high. From it there is a
very good view of the Peshawar Valley
and hills. To the W. is the Jail.
Peshawar has a great transit trade
from Kabul and Bokhara and Central
Asia. The Bazaars are well worth a
visit, both for the objects they contain
—many of them not seen in Central
India—and for the fierce-looking and
picturesquely-dressed natives who fre-
quent them, from Afghanistan and the
surrounding districts, as well as from
the centre of Asia. The traveller should
drive through the town to the Old
Palace, whence there is a lovely view
in the early morning.
The speciality of Peshawar is bright-
coloured scarfs called lungis. Wax-
cloth work and some ornamental needle-
work are also made here, as well as
knives and small arms. The cemeteries
are very numerous, and quite surround
the city. The Grand Trunk Road ap-
proaches Peshawar from the E., when,
after passing the city to the N., it
meets the Circular Road, which goes
quite round the cantonment. Just
where it comes parallel with the city
is the missionary burial-ground.
The Cantonments, 2 in. W. of the
city, are pleasantly situated on a slope
looking towards the Khaiber Pass, and
occupying one of the highest sites in the
valley. They contain a Public Garden,
and the main roads are lined with
avenues of trees. Leaving the Fort and
taking the Circular Road, the Race-
course, the ML, Art., the B.S., and
Nat. 0'. S. Lines are passed in succession.
There are Anglican and R. Catholic
Churches. At the Mission connected
with the Church Missionary Society
there is a school where a large number
of natives are educated. At the Mission-
house there is a considerable library
and a good collection of Buddhist
remains. They maintain also two guest-
houses for natives free of all charge.
One of the many victims of the
fanatical Afghans _ was Licut. -Col.
Mackeson, 0.15., Commissioner of Pesha-


nours 13.
KHAIBER PASS 213
war, murdered in 1853. An obelisk
30 ft. high, in the centre of the Mall,
marks the spot where he is buried.
Hunting is carried on throughout the
winter, when the climate is often very
cold, and it is well to be provided with
warm clothes.
The Khaiber (Khyber or Kiher) Pass,
This expedition should not be
omitted, as no description can convey
a real impression of the Pass and its
natural strength.
Before starting, the traveller must
apply to the officer in command at
Peshawar for written permission to visit
the Pass, and to drive as far as the Fort
of Ali Musjid (16 m.) Only by special
arrangement may he ride as far as
Lundi Kotal. The Pass is only open
on Tuesday or Friday for the benefit
of caravans, when it is guarded by the
corps of Khaiber Rifles, enlisted for the
purpose. Several fortified posts, the
chief of which are Ali Musjid and Lundi
Kotal (1700 ft. above sea-level), are held
by them. The Pass is quite safe to
Europeans under escort. The traveller
will probably accompany a long convoy
of camels, oxen, asses,heavily laden with
well-poised loads, climbing the defile.
104]; m. by road, Jamrud, D.B., is the
first place from which the Khaiber Pass
may be seen. The carriage-road to this
place runs due W. from the Inf. Lines.
At night it is not safe to go beyond the
cantonment Police Post. A railway
line to J amrud has been surveyed. It
is believed that an easier line for a rly.
may be found N. into Afghanistan
following the course of the Kabul river.
The Fort of Jamrud was built or
thoroughly repaired by Hari Sing,
and gallantly held by him against the
Afghans till April 1837, when he was
killed in battlegagainst troops sent by
Dost Muhammad. The fort has three
encircling walls of stone, and stands on
ground raised about 100 ft. above the
valley.
The Pass is a narrow winding defile
wending between clitfs of shale and lime-
stone rock 600 to 1000 ft. high, stretch-
ing up to more lofty mountains beyond.
It was in the N. entrance that we
suffered so dreadfully in 1841. 3 m.
from J amrud is a village on the top of
a hill to the S.W., called Kadam ; and
there is another at the very entrance
to the Pass, called Gadr Arran.
On 5th April 1842, the Khaiberces
had blocked the Pass with a barrier of
stones, mud, and bushes, and had beset
the heighten both sides with marksmen.
But our disciplined soldiers clambered
round the heights with the greatest
agility, took the enemy in the rear
from above, and scattered them. It
was now time for Gen. Pollock to
advance with his main body into the
Pass—clearing the barricade before
them. It was well that the moun-
taineers had been driven 011', for Pollock
had a long convoy of provisions and
ammunition for Sale’s garrison under
his care, and nearly a whole day was
consumed in reaching the Fort of Ali
Musjid, which the enemy had evacu-
ated in the morning. The heights
being crowned and held by our force,
J ellalabad was relieved the next day ;
and the day after they sallied forth and
defeated Muhammad Akbar’s force, 6000
strong, burning his camp and recaptur-
ing 2 standards and 4 guns taken from
the English.
Bara, D.B.—A visit may be paid to
Bara, from which place delicious water
has now been brought to Peshawar.
There is a mud fort at 6 m. S.W. of the
cantonment, close to the pass from
which the water comes.
The conduit which brings the water
is made of blocks of concrete. At
intervals of i, In. there are small
towers for ventilation. There is con-
siderable cultivation on the road. At
Pusht-i-Khar, half-way between Pesha-
war and Bara, is an aqueduct bridge.
In Bara Fort there is a bungalow for
the engineer officer. At 300 yds. to
the W. of the fort is the reservoir.
There are other forts at the mouths
of the passes, such as Michni, Shab-
kadar or Shankargarh, and Abuzai, but
an escort and permission to visit them
are necessary. _
Persons accustomed to a hard day in
the saddle would enjoy a ride to Kohat,
D.B., through the Kohat Pass.


21 4 ROUTE 1 4.
India
LAHORE TO KARACHI
ROUTE 14
LAHORE TO Kanscnr BY RAIL
4 m. Meean Meer west sta. military
cantonment (see Rte. 12).
26 m. Raewind junc. sta. (R.) for, 34
m., Ferozepur andRajputana (see Rte. 8).
88 m. Gamber sta.. [From this point
may be reached Pak Pattan, 30 m. S. ,
near the Ghara river, 'v'ia Montgomery,
Harapa, Mooltan (Dera Ghazi Khan),
Bahawalpur, Rohri, Sukkur, Sehwan
(Manchhar Lake), Haidarabad, Tatta,
etc. Itis an extremely ancient place, first
known in history as Ajudhan, and
identified by General Cunningham with
one of the towns belonging to the
Sudrakoe or Oxudrakoe of Alexander’s
historians. It was im ortant at a
later date as the chief erry over the
Ghara or Sutlej. Now it is best known
on account of the Tomb of Farid-u-din,
a Mohammedan saint of the Chisti
family. A great pilgrimage of Moham-
medans takes place here at the time of
the Muharmm, as many as 60,000
attending]
103 in. Montgomery sta. (R. ), D.B.
This place, created under British rule
since 1855, is the headquarters of a
district formerly known as Gugaira,
situated in the Bari Doab, and stretch-
ing across the Ravi into the Rechna
Doab. Sikh rule began in 1818, and
British in 1849. On the openin of the
railway the headquarters of t e dis-
trict were moved here from Gugaira,
and it received its present name
from Sir R. Montgomery, then Lieut.-
Governor of the Panjab.
116 m. Harapa sta. A hamlet now
of no importance, but identified by
General Cunningham with the site of a
town in the territory of the Malli at-
tacked and taken by Alexander the
Great. The ruins, which are the most
extensive of any along the banks of the
Ravi, lie to the N. of the line and close
to it. On the N.W. and S. there is a
continuous line of mounds 3500 ft. in
length. On the E. side there is a gap
of 800 ft. The whole circuit of the
ruins is nearly 2} m.

About the centre of the W. side are
the remains of a great Hindu temple,
said to be of the time of Rajah Harpal.
The walls have been removed, and with
the mounds have more than sufficed
to furnish brick-ballast for 100 m. of
the Lahore and Mooltan Rly. A
little to the E. is a Naugaja (or “nine
yarder") tomb, said to be that of one
Nur Shah. In the plain below are
three lar e stones, one with a hole in
the midd e 10% in. in diameter. They
are called nod and manka, and are said
to be the thumb rings of the giant
buried in the Naugaja tomb.
General Cunningham attributes the
destruction of Harapa to Muhammad-
bin-Kasim in 713 A.D. Harapa has
yielded thousands of Indo-Scythian
coins, but not a single Greek one.
207 m. Mooltan (Multan) City at: and
208 m. Mooltan Cantonment (R.)
junc. sta. From here the Sind-Saugar
Railway runs W. (46 m. to Ghazi Ghat)
for Dera Ghazi Khan, and N. (via
Sher Shah junc.) to Bhakkur for Dera
Ismail Khan (see Rte. 13).
Mooltan city (D.B. 1i m. N. of rly.
sta.) is a municipal town, with a pop. of
74,500, of whom the majority are Moham-
medans. It is the capital of a district
of the same name, and is 4 m. from
the left bank of the Chenab, and not
far from the Ravi. It is a place of
great antiquity, and supposed to be the
capital of the Malli mentioned in Alex-
ander's time. Cunningham supports
this view by his discovery of a deposit
of ashes and burnt earth at a depth of
about 30 to 32 ft., which he thinks is
the remains of a coni'lagration and
wholesale massacre which took place
during Alexander’s campaign, owing to
the exasperation of his soldiers at his
having received a dangerous wound at
the capture of the lace. It is said to
have been founde by Kashypa, the
father of Hiranya-Kashipu, and was
probably the Kaspeira of Ptolemy.
The first mention of Mooltan by name
is by Hiouen Thsang in 641 A.D.
Istakhri, who wrote in 950 A.D., de-
scribes the temple of the idol of Mooltan
as a strong edifice between the bazaars


ROUTE 14.
MOOLTAN 215
of ivory dealers and the sho s of the
coppersmiths. The idol waso ahuman
shape, with eyes of jewels, and the
head covered with a crown of gold.
Shortly after, Mooltan was taken by the
Karmatian chief, J elem, son of Shiban,
who killed the priests and broke the
idol in pieces. It was restored in 1138.
In 1666 A.D. Thevenot describes the
temple of the Sun God as still standing,
and the idol as clothed in red leather,
and having two pearls for eyes.
Muhammad Kasim conquered Mool-
tan for the Khalifs, and it was after-
wards taken by Mahmud of Ghazni,
1005. Subsequently it formed part of
the Mogul Empire. In 1779 Muzafl'ar
Khan, a Sadozai Afghan, made himself
ruler, but was killed with his five sons
when Ranjit's army stormed the place in
1818. Aurangzib destroyed the temple
and statue of the Sun, and no trace of it
was to be found when the Sikhs took
Mooltan. In revenge they turned the
tomb of the {Mohammedan saint, Shams-
i-Tabriz, into a. hall for reading the
Granth. In 1829 the Sikhs appointed
Sawan Mall governor. He was shot in
1844, and was succeeded by his son
Mulraj. He resigned, and Mr. Vans
Agnew and Lieut. Anderson were sent
down to receive the surrender of his
office. They were murdered with his
connivance, and war with the British
ensued. 0n the 2d of January 1849
the city was stormed by the army under
General Whish, and since then the
whole district has been governed by
the English.
The heat of Mooltan is notorious, and
the rainfall is little above 7 in. The
proverb says—
Dust, beggars, and cemeteries,
Are the three specialities of Mooltan.
The Cantonment, to the W. of the
town, was extended to the S.W. and
made more defensible in 1888. The
Lines of the N. Cavalry are to the
extreme S. outside the cantonment,
with the Artillery Lines to their N. , and
beyond these, in the same direction,
are the hospital and D.B., with the R.
Catholic cemetery to the N.W., and
the Mohammedan cemetery, the Parsi
cemetery, and the English church in
succession to the N.

The first visit should be to the Fort.
Entering at the W. or De Gate (from
Dewal=temple, because the ancient
Temple of the Sun stood here), on 1.
is the Shrine of Ruknu-din, grand-
son of Bhawal Hakk, commonly known
as Rukn-i-'Alam, “Pillar of the World.”
This is an octagon of red brick, bonded
with beams of Sisu wood, and supported
by sloping towers at the angles. Over
this is 'a smaller octagon, leaving a
narrow passage all round for the
muezzin to call the faithful to prayers.
Above this is a hemispherical dome.
The total height is 100 ft., but it
stands on high ground, and it can be
seen for 50 m. all round. One of the
towers was thrown down when the
powder magazine blew up in December
1848, and was rebuilt in faithful imita-
tion of the old one, includin the timber
bonds. The whole outsi e is orna-
mented with glazed tile patterns and
string courses and battlements. The
colours used are dark blue, azure, and
white, which, contrasted with the deep
red of the finely polished bricks, give
a most pleasing effect. The mosaics
are not like those of later days, more
plain surfaces, but the patterns are
raised from 1} an in. to 2 in. above
the background. This adds to the
effect.
This tomb was built by the Emperor
Tughlak, 1340-50, for himself, but
given by his son Muhammad Tughlak
as a mausoleum for Ruknu-din.
To the N. there is a small mosque,
which has been dismantled, and over
the dome of which is a broken in-
scription with the names of the four
first Khalifs. The door faces E., and
is made of very old Shisham wood;
inside towards the W. is a recess
with the Ayat-i-Kursi carved in large
letters.
In an inner court to the right is an
Obelisk about 50 ft. high, erected in
memory of Vans-Agnew and Anderson,
who were murdered, at the ’Idgah with
7 cupolas 2 m. N. of the Fort, in 1848.
On a white tablet on the W. face of the
pedestal is the inscription which tells
briefly an important chapter of the
history of the Panjab. The concluding
words are—


216 ROUTE 1 4.
India
LAHORE TO KARACHI
The annexation of the Panjab to the Empire
Was the result of the War,
Of which their assassination
Was the commencement.
The Tomb of Bahau-din Zakha-
riya, “The Ornament of the Faith,"
commonly called Bahau ’1 Hakk, or
Bhawal Hakk, is as old as the reign
of the Emperor Balban (1264-86), of
which period there is only one other
architectural specimen. It was almost
completely ruined during the siege of
1848. It was afterwards repaired and
plastered over, but some glazed tiles
remain outside. The lower part is a
square; above this is an octagon half
the height of the square, and above
that a hemispherical dome. The son
of Bhawal Hakk, whose name was
Sadru-din, is buried in the same
tomb.
Theccuotaph is adorned with bright
green tiles. Opposite, in the corner of
the vestibule, is the tomb of Nawab
Muzaifar Khan.
About 1 m. N. is Christ Church, the
church of the Cantonment.
The Tomb of Shams-i-Tabriz stands
1 m. to the E. of the Fort on the high
bank of the old bed of the Ravi. The
main body of the tomb is a square sur-
rounded by a. verandah with seven
openings in each side.
octagon surmounted by a hemispheri-
cal domc covered with glazed sky-blue
tiles. The whole height is 62 ft. The
saint lived in the time of Shah Jehan.
To the left of the entrance is a small
square building, dignified with the
name of the Imambarah.
[Excursion to Dera Ghazi Khan.—
Rly. via 12 m. Sher Shah junc., 37 m.
Mahmud Kot to 47 m. Ghazi Ghat. sta.
The Ohenab, about 1 in. broad, is
crossed at Sher Shah, on a splendid
bridge of 17-200 ft. girders. Ghazi
Ghat sta. is on the 1. bank of the In-
dus, which has to be crossed to
Dera Ghazi Khan, a municipal town,
and headquarters of a district of the
same name, containing an area of 4377
sq. m. The city was founded by
a Baluch chief named Ghazi Khan
Makrani in 1475 A.D. The district
consists of a narrow strip of land be-
Above is an_

tween the Indus and the Sulaiman
Mountains. The sights of the place
are some large and striking mosques,
the chief of which are those of Ghazi
Khan, ’Abdu ’l J awar, and Chuta Khan.
The civil and military cantonments are
W. of the town, which is the head-
quarters of the Church Medical Mission
to the Baluchis.]
Resuming the journey from Mooltan,
the line reaches
218 m. Sher Shah junc. sta., D. 13.,
whence the Sind-Saugar Rly. branches
off W. for Dera Ismail Khan and the
line N. to Bhakkur (119 m.)—see
above—and Lala Musa sta. (342 m.) on
the Lahore and Peshawar line.
269 m. Adamwahan Bridge, 4224 ft.
long, carries the Indus Valley Rly.
across the Sutlej river. The height of
the roadway above the stream is 28 ft.
272 m. Bahawalpur sta., D.B., is a
town with about 20,000 inhabitants,
and the ca ital of a native state under
the politica direction of the government
of the Panjab. Its area is about 22,000
sq. m., with a pop. of nearly 600,000,
of whom four-fifths are Mohammedan.
The language is a mixture of Sindi and
Panjabi. The Nawab of Bahawalpur
ranks third on the list of Panjab chiefs
next after Patiala. His ancestors came
from Sind, and assumed independence
after the first expulsion of Shah Shuja
from Kabul.
In 1847-48, Bhawal Khan, the then
Nawab, assisted Sir Herbert Edwardes
during the Mooltan rebellion, for which
he was rewarded with a life-pension of
a lakh of rs. and the gift of the dis-
tricts of Sabzalkot and Bhaungbara.
His son, S’aadat Khan, was expelled
by his elder brother, and died a refugee
in British territory in 1862. In 1863
and 1865 rebellions broke out, but were
crushed by the Nawab, who died soon
after. '
Palace of the Nawab, which is to the
E. of the town, cost about £30,000.
It is a. square ile, with towers at each
corner. In t e centre is Ea hall for
holding receptions. There is a fountain
in front. At the side are underground


ROUTE 14.
RETI, ROHRI 217
rooms where the thermometer remains
at 70", while it rises from 100° to 110°
in the upper rooms. Ascending to the
roof, the visitor will have an extensive
view E. towards the vast Desert of Bick-
aneer which stretches, waterless, away
for 100 m.
There is a Horse Farm, where are
many fine animals, particularly brood-
mares.
The Jail is situated to the E. of the
town.
Following the course of the Indus,
through an uninteresting tract, the
rly. reaches
417 m. Reti sta. (R. ), 4 m. S. of which
are the vast ruins of V iinoi, a chief city
~ before the Mohammedan Conquest. A
mouth of the E. Nara Canal (see below)
is crossed 2 m. before reaching Rohri,
and from Rohri runs due S. through
Khairpur, and enters the Thar Parkar
district. Seen from a distance, Rohri
has a striking appearance ; the houses
being four and five stories high, with
flat roofs surrounded by balustrades.
487 m. Rohn' sta., a municipal town
(pop. 9000), the capital of a subdistrict
of the same name, which has an area of
4258 sq. m. It is on the left, or E.
bank of the Indus, on a rocky eminence
of limestone, interspersed with flints.
It is said to have been founded by
Saiyad Ruknu-din Shah in 1297 A.D.,
which was more than 300 years after the
Indus deserted its former bed at Alor
and came to Rohri. The rocky site of
Rohri ends on the W. side in a precipice
40 ft. high, rising from the river bank.
In the latter part of the rains the water
rises 16 ft. above its lowest level.
The Jumma Musjid is a. fine building
of red brick, with three domes, and
coated with glazed porcelain tiles. A
Persian inscription records that it was
built by Fath Khan, an officer of the
Emperor Akbar, about the year 1572
A. D. One of the sights of the place is
the Mai Mubarak, or “ hair of the
Prophet,” in this case a hair and a half.
They are set in amber and preserved in
a gold tube adorned with rubies. It
is said that the War Mubarak, a build-
ing 25 ft. square, on the N. of the

town, was erected about 1545 by Mir
Muhammad for the reception of these
hairs. It appears they were brought
from Constantinople by one Abdu ’l
Baki, whose descendants have still the
keeping of them. The ’Ialgah was
erected in 1593 A.D., by Mir Muhammad
M’asum. Near Rohri are three forests
covering 58,000 acres, or about 90 sq.
m., which were planted in 1820 by the
Talpur Amirs, and are now under the
control of the Sind Forest Department.
Here tigers, panthers, lynxes, and wild
hog are numerous.
[Excursion to Alon—While at
Rohri, a visit may be paid to the very
ancient town of Alor, which is only 5 n1.
distant to the E. This was the capital
of the Hindu Rajahs of Sind and was
taken from them by the Mohammedans,
under Muhammad Kasim, about 711
A. D. At that time the Indus washed the
city of Alor, but was diverted from it
by an earthquake about 962 A.D., at
which time the river entered its
present channel.
The road from Rohri passes over a
bridge about 600 ft. long, which is across
the ancient channel of the Indus. On
the farther side is a village with about
100 inhab., and from this an extensive
ridge of ruins runs in a N. E. direction.
That which bears the name of ’Alamgirs
Mosque is picturesque. Two of them
are shrines, one to Shakarganj Shah
and the other to Kutbu-din Shah.
To the former tomb people of the
neighbouring villages still make pil-
grimages. It has no dome or build-
ing over it, but is a plain, white, neat
tombstone, with a border of carved
flowers]
Opposite to Rohri, in the Indus, is
the Island of Khwajah Khizr. Here is
a mosque of great apparent antiquity.
It has an inscription, the date 952 AJ).
The shrine of Khizr, who was also called
Zindah Pir, or “the living saint,” is
venerated by Hindus and Moham-
medans alike.
A little to the S. of the isle of Khiar
is the larger Island of Bhakkur. It is
a limestone rock of oval sha e, 800 yds.
long, 300 yds. wide, and 2. out 25 ft-


218 ROUTE 14.
India.
LAHORE TO KARACHI
high. Almost the whole of it is occupied
by a fortress, which has two gateways,
one facing Rohri en the E., the other
Sukkur, on the' W. The Amirs
attached much importance to this fort.
But on our advance to Kabul in 1838,
it was placed at the disposal of our
Government, and was used for some
time, first as an arsenal and then until
1876, as a prison for Baluchi robbers.
So early as 1327 A.D., Bhakkur seems
to have been a place of note, for
the Emperor Muhammad Tughlak sent
persons of importance to command
there. Under the Samma princes the
fort changed hands several times,
being sometimes under their rule and
sometimes under that of Delhi. Dur-
ing the reign of Shah Beg Argun the
fortifications were rebuilt, the fort of
Alor being destroyed to supply the
requisite material. In 1574 it was
delivered up to Keshu Khan, an official
of the Emperor Akbar. In 1736 it
fell into the hands of the Kalhoras,
and subsequently into those of the
Afghans, who retained it till it was
taken by Mir Rustam of Khairpur.
The Indus, which runs here with
great rapidity, is crossed by the grand
Lansdowne Bridge, erected on the canti-
lever p'nlnctfle, connecting Rohri with
Sukkur (see below). The span is 840
ft. from centre to centre of the canti-
levers; each cantilever is 320 ft. long,
and the central girder connecting them
is 200 ft. long. The roadway is 18 ft.
wide in the clear, or enough for a line of
carts in each direction. A single line
of railway is laid in the centre. The
cart traffic of course stops whilst trains
are crossing, A path 4} ft. wide for
foot and pony traffic is also provided on
each side outside the railway, and can
be used at all times. The total weight
of steel and iron employed is within
3000 tons.
490 m. Sukkur sta. (R.)
Sukkur, D.B. in the town, the head-
quarters of the Snkkur and Shikarpur
subdistrict, stands on the rt. bank of
the Indus, has a pop. of 13,000, and is
well drained and clean. The locomotive
shops ofthe N. W.Rly. are here. A range

of low limestone hills, without a blade
of vegetation, slopes down to the Indus,
and on this range
New Sukkur, as distinguished from
the old town of the same name is about
1 m. off. In 1845, owing to a fatal
epidemic of fever among the garrison,
it was abandoned as a station for Euro-
pean troops. There is not much to be
seen, except the tombs of Shah Khairu-
din, built about 1758, and Muham-
mad M’asum, in the cantonment at
Sukkur at the foot of a tower 90 ft. hi h
which he erected, and which overloo s
the country for many miles. The town
was ceded to the Khairpur Amirs, be-
tween 1809 and 1824. In 1833 Shah
Shuja’a defeated the Talpurs here with
great loss. In 1842 it came under
British rule.
1} m. from Sukkur, at the mouth of
the Eastern Nara Canal, 156 ft. wide,
are the powerful Sluice Gates which
regulate the supply of water from the
Indus. When these gates are closed
during inundations it is a wonderful
sight to see the fish trying to pass them.
Millions collect on these occasions, and
in attempting to leap the falls, fall back
into common Indian cots, made of rope,
which are suspended from the arches of
the regulator. The fishing is let out
by yearly contract and yields a hand-
some revenue to Government and local
funds.
507 m. Ruk junc. sta. (R.). From
here the Sind, Pishin, and Quetta Rail-
way branches N. (see Rte. 15).
540 m. Larkana. sta. ,D.B., is a muni-
cipal town (pop. 11,000), the capital of
a subdistrict of the same name. The
country surrounding it is fertile and
populous, and perhaps the finest tract in
the whole of Sind. I‘he spacious walks,
well laid-out gardens, and luxuriant
foliage have gained for it the title of the
Eden of Sind. It is one of the most im-
portant grain marts in that country,
and is famous for a species of rice called
sugdasi.
There is a large local traflic in metals,
cloth, and leather. The rincipal
manufactures are cloth of mixed silk


ROUTE 14.
snnwsn 219
and cotton, coarse cotton cloth, metal
vessels, and leather goods. The fort
served in the time of the Talpurs as an
arsenal, and under British rule it has
been turned into a hospital and jail.
There is no edifice in Larkana worth
notice, except the tomb of Shah
.Baharah.
630 m. Sehwan sta. (D.B. in the old
Fort). The chief town (pop. 5000), 117
ft. above sea, of a subdistrict of the
same name in the Karachi district.
The river Aral, which is crossed by a
bridge with iron girders, formerly
flowed close to the town, but has now
quite deserted it. There are many pro-
fessional mendicants, supported by the
offerings of pilgrims at the shrine of
Lal Shahbaz. The tomb of this saint
is enclosed in a quadrangular building,
which has a dome and lantern, and is
adorned with beautiful encaustie tiles,
with Arabic inscriptions. Mirza J ani,
of the Tarkan dynasty, built a still
larger tomb to this saint, which was
completed in 1639 A.D. by Nawab Din-
dar Khan. The gate and balustrade are
said to have been of hammered silver,
the gift of Mir Karam 'Ali Talpur, who
also crowned the domes with silver
spires. The chief object, however, of
antiquarian interest in Sehwan is the
Fort ascribed to Alexander the Great.
This is an artificial mound in the N.W.
part of the town, said once to have
been 250 ft. high, but now only 60 ft.,
measuring round the summit 1500 ft.
x 800 ft., and surrounded by a broken
wall. The remains of several towers
are visible, but the fortifications are
ruined.
Sehwan is the centre of the Govern-
ment system of Canals, 37 in number,
of which the principal are the W'. Nara,
30 m. long, and over 100 ft. wide at its
mouth; the Ghar, 22 m. long, and 80
ft. wide ; the Naurang, a continuation
of the Ghar, 21 m. long, and 90 ft. wide ;
the Birei-ji-Kur, 27 m. long, and 48
ft. wide; and the Eden Wah, 23 m.
long. The Indus here was very deep,
and during the last five years it has
changed its course, and is now nearly
3 m. distant from the town of Sehwan.
Half the houses in this town were

thrown down by a tremendous fall of
rain in the end of July 1839.
There is good Shooting to be had in
the Sehwan district ; hyenas, wild hog,
wolves, foxes, jackals, the hog-deer, and
the chinkarah, or “ravine antelope,”
are common, but the tiger is unknown.
[The Manchhar Lake is not very far
from Sehwan to the W. It is formed by
the expansion of the W. Nara Canal
and the Aral river, covering an area
of 160 sq. m. in the wet season,
but shrinking to about half that size
at other times. In the cold weather
the traveller might halt for a couple of
days to see the lake, where there is
abundance of water-fowl shooting, and
an extraordinary number of fine fish.
The fish are generally caught with
spears or nets. The boat, which is
flat-bottomed, is propelled by one man,
while another, armed with three or
four light cane spears, 8 ft. long, and
barbed at the tip, stands at the prow
watching the water; as soon as he
sees a fish flash throu h the weeds,
with which the lake is covered, he
hurls a handful of spears in that direc-
tion, and is sure to strike one or two
fish, which, as the spear becomes en-
tangled in the weeds, cannot go far,
and are followed and lifted into the
boat.
For the other method of catching the
fish, an ingenious circular enclosure of
nets supported by poles is laid down in
the lake. A flotilla of small boats
containing men with drums and other
noisy instruments surrounds the en-
closure at some distance and gradually
draws nearer.
“The fish, frightened by the din, and
not daring to escape through the boats,
press heavier an nearer to the net.
Then when the boats approach, huge
dambhros are seen flinging themselves
into the air to a height of from 3 to 4
ft., hoping to jump over the lower net,
but only to strike against the upper
one and fall into the bag below, a self-
made prey. In the meantime, men
with spears hurl them at the huge
gandams, which are unable to leap, and
lifting them high in the air over the
net, deposit them in the boats.


220 ROUTE 14.
I nation
LAHORE TO KARACHI
Divers then go inside the net, and
examine it carefully under water, secur-
ing such fish as may be endeavouring
to force a passage through it. These
men in their habits seem almost am-
phibious " (Gaz. of Sindh, p. 710).]
641 m.Laki sta. (R), D.B. The Indus
Valley State Railway runs through the
Laki Pass, at an elevation of 200 ft.,
the Indus lying below. This range of
hills contains several hot springs, and
shows many si s of volcanic action;
various kinds 0 sea-shell, including the
oyster, are found. Lead, antimony, and
copper are also found, though not in
great quantities. Passing l. the battle-
field of Miami, where Sir Charles Napier
defeated a Baluchi army, we reach
716 m. Kotri sta. (R.), for Haidarabad
across the Indus. The steamer Madock
has been converted into a flat, and is
stationed at the Bander R. sta. as a
rest-house for travellers. There is a
booking-office on board. There are two
rly. stas., the Main Station (13; m. from
the town), whence there is a short
branch to the Boulder Station. This
place with its hamlets has a pop. of
9000. The river bank presents a very
animated scene. Sidings convey goods
from the railway to the river by zigzag
routes, so constructed as to suit any
condition of the stream in flood or
drought. The civil station and Euro-
pean quarter are N. and W. of the
native town, and are well planted and
well kept, and contain the usual
Government buildings.
From Kotri there is a Government
steam ferry to Bander, whence it is a
drive of about 3% 111. along a fine
avenue of trees to
Haidarabad (Hydrabad), formerly
called Nimnkot, “ Water-fort," or
“the fort of Niran,” has a pop. of
58,000 inhabitants. It is situated
on a high part of the rocky ridge called
the Ganjah Hills, in an island formed
by the Indus and the Fuleli, a branch
which, leaving the main stream 12 m.
above the town, rejoins it 15 m. below.
The modern city of Haidarabad was
founded by Ghulam Shah Kalhora in
1768. His tomb is at the N.W. of the
plateau on which the town stands.

The Fort of Haidambad is of a very
irregular form, corresponding with the
natural shape of the rock, on which a
wall of burnt brick from 15 to 30 ft.
high, thick at the base, but tapering
upwards, has been built. It supports
a quantity of earth which has been
piled against it inside, and is pierced
with numerous loopholes. The bastions
at the salient angles give the fortress
an appearance of strength, but it could
not withstand heavy artillery. The
whole enceinte is about i m. in circum-
ference, and is towards the S. of the
plateau ; and at the S. extremity of all
is the huge round tower, erroneously
supposed to have been the treasury of
the Amirs. On the N. side a trench
separates the citadel from the town. It
is crossed by a bridge leading to one of
these intricate gateways which have so
often yielded to a coup domain. Every-
where else is level ground. Where the
walls do not rise immediately from the
edge of the declivity, the defence is
strengthened by a ditch 10 ft. wide
and 8 ft. deep. Within the walls of
the Fort were formerly the residences of
the principal Amirs, with those of their
families and numerous de endants.
The area, which is considerab e, had its
streets, its mosques, and public build-
ings, and was quite a town, with a
dense population. These buildings
have now almost disappeared, and the
Commissary of Ordnance and the Ex-
ecutive Engineer divide the Fort be-
tween them as an arsenal and store-
house. Mir Nasir Khan’s palace alone
is kept up, and is occupied by the
Commissioner in Sind, on his annual
tour, and by other officers of rank,
when visiting Haidarabad. Sir C.
Napier frequently resided in this
palace, and in it he held his Grand
Darbar on 24th and 25th May 1844,
when every chief in Sind came from
far and near to submit himself to the
con ueror. Most of the buildings in
the ort were painted within'land with-
out in fresco. The mosques were faced
with Hala tiles of the gayest colours,
so that the whole had a most gorgeous
appearance. Time and neglect have
made sad changes; but there is one
room in Mir Nasir Khan's palace

























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ROUTE 14.
HAIDARABAD 221
styled the Painted Chamber, which is
still tolerably perfect, and gives some
idea of what the effect must have been
when all was uninjured. In the re-
cesses various historical subjects con-
nected with the Talpur family are
delineated. In one recess is a very
indifi'erently-executed picture of an
English gentleman and an Amir, the
work of a native artist, who obliter-
ated one of the least popular subjects,
and introduced these figures, one of
which is intended for Colonel (Sir
James) Outram. Round the chamber
is a balcony commanding a fine
panoramic view, and on the wooden
balustrade were two sockets, cut by
order of Sir C. Napier. A telesco e
placed in one pointed to the battle-fie d
of Miani, and if moved to the other
showed the place where the victory of
Dabo or Haidarabad was gained.
Above the gateway of the fort is a room
which looks down on the principal
bazaar. From this room, in the after-
noon, it is worth while to watch the
motley crowds of all nations, in various
costumes, which throng the mart below.
The visit to the Fort should conclude
with a walk round the ramparts and an
ascent to the top of the circular tower,
whence a fine view of the surrounding
country with the Fuleli, on one side,
winding through the dusty plain, and
on the other side, of the rapid Indus,
with its buttress of rock in the back-
ground, will be obtained.
Leaving the Fort, the traveller should
pass through the bazaar to the market-
place, around which new Haidarabad
is fast rising up. As the old town was
crowded and difficult to improve, the
municipality laid out new streets, and
erected a market-place, a school, and
other public buildings. Beyond the
Jail are the Tombs q“ the Kalhoms
and Talpurs, which cover the northern
portion of the hill on which Haidara-
bad is built. The tombs of the Talpurs
are very beautiful, but are not in such
exquisite taste as that of Ghulam Shah
Kallma, the description of which may
serve for all. On entering the enclosure
by a small but richly carved door, the
visitor is impressed by the beautiful
symmetry of the mausoleum, and the
religious feeling displayed in the decora-
tions. Latticed windows in the lofty
dome sparingly admit the light, and
shed a subdued lustre over an exqui-
sitely carved marble tomb, at the same
time revealing the rich fresco paintings
on the walls, without giving them too
much prominence. The walls had in
many places cracked, and bulge out;
but Government has done what is pos-
sible to arrest further decay. The
building is quadrangular, with a dome
in the centre resembling in miniature
what may be seen in the Mohammedan
tombs of Bijapur. Over one of the
archways is an inscription in Persian
written by the orders of his son Sam-
fa'rz, whose tomb adjoins, and was built
in 1785 A.D. It is painted inside,
and is in good repair. There are
four other tombs of the Talpur family—
that of Mir Karam ’Ali, a domed
rectangular buildin , with a turret
at each corner, bu' t in 1812, with
marble fretwork, and roofed with
coloured tiles; that of Mirs Murad
’Ali, Nur Muhammad, Nasir Khan
and Shahdad Khan, built in 1847,
with white marble tombs inside ; those
of Mir Ghulam Shah and Fazl 'Ali,
erected in 1855 ; and that of Mir Mu-
hammad, built in 1857. All the Tal-
pur tombs, except Karam ’Ali’s, are
kept in good order, at the cost of sur-
viving members of the family.
The Cantoan lies to the N.W. of
the town. iThere is a fine range of
Barracks for Europeans. Not far ofl‘,
overlooking the Gidu Bandar Road, is
the Church of St. Thomas, built in
1860, at a cost of 45,000 rs. It can
hold 600 persons. It has several
memorial windows, and on the N. side
of the communion-table is a brass
showin the number of officers and
men w o fell at Miani and Dabo
(1843).
The Roman Catholics have had a
church at Haidarabad from the time
of the conquest.
The Jail can contain about 400
prisoners. The Persian carpets and
rugs made by the convicts are very
handsome and good. Mats also, and
a great variety of cotton cloths are

manufactured in the prison.


222 ROUTE 14.
India.
LAHORE TO KARACHI
Manufactures.—Haidarabad is fa-
mous for its embroideries in silk and
gold and its silver tissues. There are
four or five famous fabricants, each
working with a different stitch. A
table-cover costs from 50 to 100 rs.,
according to size ; chair-covers from 25
to 40 rs. Book-covers, slippers, etc,
are made of endless varieties. All
these are worked on a simple wood
frame, similar to that formerly used
by ladies for worsted work. Enamel-
ling.—In the Amirs' time there was a
great demand for this manufacture, the
principal sardars vying with each other
in the beauty and costliness of their
swords, matchlocks, and horse-trap-
pings, which were profusely decorated
with enamelled ornaments. In enamel-
ling on gold, the colours red and crimson
are chiefly used, and blue and green
are the favourite colours with silver.
This trade is now on the decline, as is
also that of manufacturing arms. Hai-
darabad was renowned for its sword-
blades and matchlock barrels, but there
are now only one or two families who
work in this line. Seal Engraving is
a business of great importance in the
East, where the Persians and the arti-
sans of Delhi are celebrated for their
skill in this craft. At Haidarabad
there are very skilful engravers who
work on cornelian, silver, and other
metals, generally in the Persian or
Arabic character. A small seal, with
the purchaser’s name in Persian,
mounted on a handle of enamel-work,
is a good memento of Haidarabad. Lac-
quered work is admirably executed here.
If the traveller has time he should
drive or ride down the Bellasis Road,
along the bank of the river, and
up by the entrenched camp to the
Bandar Road Avenue, which is one of
the most beautiful avenues in India.
The climate of Haidarabad is very
hot and unhealthy. The average rain-
fall is only 6 in., while that of Karachi
is 7 in.
Before leaving Haidarabad the
traveller might wish to visit the
famous battle-fields of Miani and Dabo,
on which, in 1843, was decided the fate
of Sind. The three places, Haidarabad,
M iani, and Dabo, form a triangle, Miani

being 6 m. to the N. W. of Haidarabad
and Dabo 4'} m. to the S. E. of Miani,
and 5} m. to the E. of Haidarabad.
The whole journey, therefore, might be
made in a day, starting very early in
the morning.
At Miani a monument marks the
scene of this great action, and on the
E. side of the pillar are the names of
the officers who fell, and other informa-
tion. The spot is enclosed in a well-
kept garden.
768 m. Jungshahi sta. (R.)
[From here Tatta (pcip. 8000) can
best be seen—13 m. S. . by a good
road. The place is known locally as
Naga'r Thato.
Tatta is situated 4 m. W. of the Indus,
and built on ground slightly raised by
the ruins of former houses. Fever is
very common, and a dreadful mortality
took place in 1839 in the British canton-
ment. According to Macmurdo, it was
built in 1522, and was destroyed by
one of Akbar's generals in 1591. Ham-
ilton, who visited it in 1699, calls it a
very large and rich cit , about 3 m.
long and 11} m. broad. e states that
80,000 persons had just before his visit
died of the plague, and that it was half
depopulated. Pottinger states thatwhen
Nadir entered at the head of his army
in 1742 there were 40,000 weavers,
20,000 other artisans, and 60,000
dealers in various trades. These
numbers have now dwindled to about
300 weavers, 100 artisans, and 500
traders. In 1854 a municipality was
established. The present trade of Tatta
mostly consists of silk and cotton
manufactures. The lungis or scarfs
are much admired.
In 1758 a factory was established
here by the E. I. Company and with-
drawn in 1775, re-established in 1799,
and again given up. There is a tomb
on the Makkall'i Hill near Tatta, not far
from the large tombs of the old rulers
of Sind, erected over the remains of
Edward Cooke, who was probably con-
nected with the factory. The epitaph
is eulogistic, and concludes with the
words-—
To whose memory his Servant
Erected this Tomb.


non'rn 14.
TATTA 223
The affectionate fidelity of the servant
who erected the tomb, but would not
arade his own name, is deserving of
asting remembrance.
The most remarkable sights at Tatta
are the Grand Mosque; the manufac-
tures of silk Zungis and stamped
cottons; the tombs at the Makkalll
Hill ; Pir Pattan ; and Kalyan Kot.
The Grand Mosque, near the centre
of the town, was begun by Shah Jehan
in 1647 an, and finished by Aurangzib.
It has been a magnificent edifice, but
is now much decayed. The roof is
surmounted by 100 domes, each painted
in a different way. The inscriptions
carved round the great stone arch, and
those upon the two stones on which
the date of the edifice is given, are
admirably executed in large letters.
Not far from this is the old house in-
habited by Mr. Crowe, the first Resident
in Sind deputed by the British Govern-
ment. His tomb may also be seen
outside the walls.
The Maklcalli Hill Cemetery is
about 1* in. W. of the town. The
range runs from W. to N ., being 8 m.
long and under 1 m. broad. The area
of this vast cemetery is said to be 6 sq.
m. and to contain 1,000,000 graves,
the custom of Mohammedans requiring
that all tombs shall be single, and that
none be re-opened to receive more than
one body. This place began to be used
for interment about 1500 A.D., when
Jam Tamachi, of the Samma tribe,
built a mosque upon the hills, and
directed that Fit Panjah, which was,
up to that time, the great burial ground
of the city, should be forsaken. The
summit of the rocky ridge looking
towards Tatta is crowned by an im-
mense ’Idgah, or place where public
prayers are recited on the two great
Mohammedan festivals called ’Ial, or
Easter. The building consists of a
long wall, with a low flight of ste s
leading to the central niche, where t e
preacher stands, and tall slender
minarets of elegant form springing
from either extremity. The inscrip-
tion is in beautiful large Nasl’ulik
characters, giving the date 1633
A.D.
Behind this building vaulted domes,

arches and towers, portieoes, gateways,
and vast colonnades rise in apparently
endless succession above sha eless
mounds of ruins. Many of the e ifices
must have been the protracted labour
of years. In some the cupola is sur-
rounded by a ring of smaller domes,
with a single or double colonnade, en-
closing a gallery and platform, broken
by pointed arches in each of the four
fronts. Others are girt by lofty stone
walls, forming square courtyards, with
entrance gates leading to the different
doorways. Some consist of heavy
marble canopies, on fantastic columns.
Many are built of coloured and glazed
tiles and bricks, the work probably of
Persian bricklayers, who are renowned
for their skill. So skilfully and care-
fully made are these bricks, that each
rings like metal, and breaks as clear
as glass. Nothing can be richer than
the appearance of the inscriptions on
the bricks, in large white letters, upon
a dark purple ground.
Kalyan Kot, “Fort Prosperous,"—
not as Sir A. Burnes and Lieut. Wood
write it, Kalan Kol, “ Great Fort,"—is
Called by the Mohammedans Tughlaka-
bad. It is a ruin, somewhat less than
2 m. S. of Tatta, and according to some
it was erected by Alexander the Great.
However that may be, its antiquity
cannot be doubted. The name is Sans-
scrit, and from its plan it may be fairly
inferred that it was built before the use
of cannon.]
787 m. Dabheji sta. is the place
from which Bambura may be visited ;
it is 6 m. distant.
[Bambura is supposed by the natives
to be the site of the most ancient sea-
port in Sind. It may have been the
ancient Debal, the first city captured by
Muhammad Kasim, having its name
from a temple in the fort of great
celebrity. It is unquestionably of
great antiquity, and the remains of
ramparts, bastions, towers, etc, prove
its former im ortance. Many coins
also have at di erent times been found
among its ruins. The town of Gharo
is about 3 m. to the E.]
819 m. chm (Kurmchce) cw-


224 ROUTE 14.
I mlvlav
LAHORE T0 KARACHI
tonment (or I-‘rere Street) sta. an
The M‘Leod or City sta. is 2 m. farther
on towards the harbour.
Karachi, lat. 24° 47’, long. 66° 56’ 13.,
pop. 104,000, distance from London 6283
m., is the chief town in Sind. It is
situated at the N. extremity of the
delta of the Indus, and the head-
quarters of the Commissioner, the
Judicial Commissioner, and Brigadier-
General. Karachi existed as a mere
fort from 1725 to 1842, when it
was yielded up by the Talpur Meers
to the British Government. Then it
began to rise rapidly as a flourishing
sea-port with a trade whose annual
value exceeds £4,000,000. N. of the
sta. are the Napier Barracks, a fine
blook of buildings extending over the
maiden for l m., with accommodation
for 1500 European troops. W. of the
Lines are the R. C. Church and General
Hospital. In front of this line, i m.
from the rly. sta., is the Frere Hall
(built in 1865 in honour of Sir Bartle
Frere). The building contains a large
ballroom, a public meeting'room, the
Karachi General Library and Museum.
In front of the Hall is the bandstand,
where the European regimental band
plays on Saturday evenings between 6
and 8. Adjoining the Frere Hall com-
pound are the handsome buildings and
gardens belonging to the members of
the Sind Club (see Index). Passing
beyond it is the Masonic Hall, and
in front of it, on the road leading to
the sea, is the Gymkhana and Ladies’
Club, standing in a well-kept garden.
To the W. and in a line with the Gym-
khana is the compound of
Government House, built by Sir C.
Napier, bought from him by Govern-
ment, and now the residence of the
Commissioner in Sind. Behind it is
Trinity Church (the garrison church),
with its square tower, 150 ft. high.
This church contains a fine stained
glass window put up in honour of
Sir C. Napier and the victors of
Miani. Beyond, W., are the Artillery
Mess-house, Barracks, and Arsenal;
and a few yds. farther is St. Andrew’s
Scotch Church.
Here is the heart of the busy Sudar
Bazaar, with its Post Oflice, Telegraph

Oflice, and Victoria Market,—a very
fine building with high clock tower,
Near the market is the Eduljei Dui~
shaw Dispensary, —a building of
graceful proportions. 1 m. W. of the
market are the Government Gardens,
where the Native regimental band
plays. The Zoological Collection in
the gardens is considered the best in
India. The road S. from the gardens,
by the banks of the Layari river, leads
to the C. M. 8. Mission Church and
School. This is the commencement
of the Native town, where are situated
the ofiices and godowns of the European
merchants. Past the Mission Church
on the r., we are at the Civil Hospital,
the Government High School, Native
General Library, Small Cause Court,
and Max Deuso Hall. 0n the S. is
the melancholy-looking Jail, flanked
by its four Sind mud watch-towers.
Good carpets, etc., can be purchased
here at very reasonable prices. Near
at hand are the shops of the far-famed
Sind silversmiths.
From Government House theM‘Leod
Road to the sea leads to a fine block
of buildings containing the quarters of
the European and Persian Gulf Tele-
graph Stafi', the General Post Office,
and the Municipal Oflices. On the l.
of the road is the Karachi City Rly.
Sta. The late rapid extension of rail-
ways has made Karachi the gateway of
Central Asia, —a fact foretold more than
60 years ago by that far—seeing states-
man Sir C. Napier. Within easy walk
of the City sta. are the Court House,
containing the Judicial Commissioner,
District Judges, and Town Magistrate's
offices, the Bralton Market, the Cham-
ber of Commerce, and the Custom
House.
Passing the Customs 2 m. along the
Napier Mole is Kiamari (4 m. from the
cantonment, carriage fare 2 rs. ), a busy
shipping port, with its long line of
harves, and connected with the can-
tonment and native town by rail,
tram, road, telegraph, and telephone.
In the old days this was an island. At
Kiamari the Karachi Harbour com-
mences. It is a first-class harbour,
capable of accommodating the largest
steamers. There is very good sea-


ROUTE 14.
KARACHI \ 225
fishing to be had in the harbour, and
a good supply of boats. Karachi is
famed for its fish and oysters. Near
the Napier Mole, on the backwater,
is the Sind Boat Club House. The
defences of the harbour consist, beside
the marine defences, of three large
forts. At the Manora headland, the
entrance to the harbour on the W.,
the largest of the three forts is situated.
Near the seaport of the Panjab is a
lighthouse showing a fixed light 120 ft.
above sea-level, visible 17 m. in clear
weather. On the meridian of Karachi
there is no land between Manora and
the South Pole.
Karachi is one of the principal ports
of the B. I. S. N. Cy., by means of
whose excellent service of steamers
regular and direct communications are
kept up with England, with the Red
Sea and Persian Gulf Ports, as well as
with Bombay, Madras, Burmah, Ceylon,
the Straits Settlements, etc.
P. & O. S. N. Cy. to and from
Brindisi weekly (transhipping mails
and passengers to B. I S. N. C .
steamers at Bombay). The run from
Bombay to Karachi takes 48 hours.
Messageries Maritimes monthly to
and from Marseilles, calling at Aden,
Suez, and Port Said.
Hall Line, Clan Line, MacIver Line
monthly to and from Liverpool.
The route m'd Karachi is the most
economical for passengers and goods to
Quetta, Mooltan, Lahore, and the North-
lVest Provinces of India.
Very little rain falls at Karachi ; the
average for the year being about 7 in.
The showery months are July and
August, and there are one or two
heavy showers about Christmas. The
end of May and part of J unc and first
fortnight in October are hot; Nov.,
Dec., J an., and Feb. and March delight-
fully cold and dry ; remaining months
damp with constant cool sea breeze.
Clifton, 3 m. S. of the cantonment,
stands on the sea, and is approached by
a good road. There is a. fine sandy
beach here extending S.E. for miles—
on this beach thousands of turtles in
August, Sept, and Oct. come up at
night to lay their eggs ; and the turtle-
turnin picnic parties arranged for
India]

moonlight nights are among the stand-
ing amusements of the place. During
the cold weather the tanks and jeels
about Karachi swarm with small game
birds, while in the Beluch Mountains,
25 m. W. of Manora, good ibex shoot-
ing is obtainable. In the Hub river,
the boundary between India and Belu-
chistan (20 m. from Karachi) good
mahsir fishing can be had.
[Magar Pir, 7 m. N. of Karachi, is
well worth a visit. For a detailed
account of this curious place see Dry
Leaves from Young Egg/pt, p. 218, and
Burton’s Sind, vol. i. p. 48. As the
place can be comfortably seen in an
afternoon from Karachi, there is no
necessity to stop there, the dha'r'msala,
or rest-house, not being comfortable for
Europeans to stay at. The road out
in parts being very sandy, an extra
horse is attached to the carriage; the
charge for the trip being generally
12 re.
From the roots of a clump of date
trees gushes out a stream of hot water,
the temperature of which is 133°.
On the W. side of the valley is a
temple surrounded by a thick grove,
and close to a swamp caused by the
superfluous waters of the spring.
There is also a tank surrounded by a
5 ft. mud wall, and containing some 80
or 90 alligators, which, as they attract
a considerable number of visitors, the
Mohammedans in charge of the Pirs
Tomb regard as sacred, for a brisk and
remunerative business is done by these
custodians in killing goats for visitors
to see the alligators fed. It is a
curious fact that the so-called alligators
are really crocodiles, and are a different
species from the long-snouted Gham'al
of the Indus] .


226 ROUTE 15.
India
RUKiJUNCTION TO QUETTA, ETC.
ROUTE 15
EUR JUNCTION TO SniKARPun,
JACOBABAD, QUETTA, AND CHAMAN
~ Ruk junc. sta. (R.) is 15 in. on the
Karachi side of Sukkur (see Rte. 14).
Proceeding by the Sind-Pishin Rly.
we reach
11 m. Shikarpur sta. D. 15., a muni-
cipal town and headquarters of a district
of the same name. The pop. 43,000, of
whom 16,000 are Mohammedans. The
great trade road to Baluchistan, Kanda-
har, and Central Asia, and the Bolan
Pass, for which Shikarpur has been the
depot, passes through it. The railway
encourages direct trading, and is likely
to injure the commerce of the place.
The town is situated in a tract of low-
lying country, annually flooded ‘by
canals from the Indus, and only 190
ft. above sea-level.
The O'hhoti Begam', a branch of the
Sind Canal, flows to the S. of the
town, and another branch, the Rat'swah,
passes on the N. The soil in the
vicinity is very rich, and produces
heavy crops of grain and fruit, especially
dates, mangoes, oranges, and mulberries,
all of which are excellent.
Up to 1855 Shikarpur was nota clean
town, but in that year the Municipal
Act was brought into force, and since
then great sanitary im )rovements have
been effected. The 01 bazaar has been
lengthened, and the prolongation of it,
called the Stewart Ganj Market, after
a popular district officer, is well built
and commodious. To the E. of the
town are three large tanks, called Sarwar
Khan’s tank, Gillespie, and Hazari
tanks. There is abundance of water
for irrigation and other purposes, but
the climate is very hot and dry, and
the rainfall for twelve years averaged
only 5'15 in.
In the Jail, postins, or sheepskin
coats, baskets, reed chairs covered with
leather, carpets, tents, shoes, etc., are
made by the risoners.
There is allegend which ascribes the
foundation of Shikarpur to the Daud
Putras. The history of the place up
to 1824' is, however, uncertain, but in

that year it came into the peaceable
possession of the Amirs of Sind. In
1843, with the rest of the country, it fell
to the British.
36 In. Jacobabad sta. at: (R.) This was
the chief military frontier station before
Quetta was occupied. It is a muni-
cipal town, and capital of the frontier
district, which contains an area of 475
sq. m. The station itself, including
the military camp, has 11,000 inhabit-
ants, of whom 7000 belong to the
town. '
The town was planned and laid out
on the site of the village of Khangarh
by General John Jacob, the distin-
guished frontier officer and commander
of the Sind horse, said by Outram
to be, after Lord Napier of Magdala,
the best soldier in India. He built at
the place a Residency of considerable
size, which has a library and work-
shops attached. The military lines for
Sind horse and infantry extend for two
m., and contain a number of houses for
the officers and an English school,
which they support. When General
Jacob first arrived in Upper Sind, the
whole country about Khangarh was in
a state of anarchy, bodies of mounted
robbers, Bugtis, Dumkis, Burdis, or
Maris, swept the plains and robbed and
murdered those they encountered.
Khangarh itself offered a stout resist-
ance to the 5th Bombay N.I., but
General Jacob’s rule put an end to all
these troubles, and to him more than
to any other officer the peace of Upper
Sind was due.
121 m. Mithri sta.
133 m. Sibi junc. sta. (R. ), D. B.
This place is in the valley of the river
Nari, in the territory of the Khan of
Khelat. It is just at the entrance of
the Bolan Pass. Sibi was occupied by
the British in the name of Shah Sujah
from 1839-42. The old fort was used
as a commissariat depot. The place
was ceded to the British by the Treaty
of Gundamuk in 1879.
From Sibi to Bostan junc. there are
two lines—the Northern or Sind-Pishin
Railway by Hami, which has maxi-


ROUTE 15.
NARI, are. 227
mum gradients of 1 in 45 and traverses
a country inhabited by Pathans. The
Southern line is carried through the
Bolan Pass, and is called the Quetta
Loop Line. Its steepest gradients are 1
in 25. The inhabitants are all Baluchis.
The Southern Railway is in many places
a mere surface line, and is injured by
every heavy flood of the Bolan river.
Both roads are full of interest. There
are spots on the Harnai line where the
scenery is unsurpassed in the whole
world for its weird grandeur. The
traveller must at any sacrifice of time
arrange to see these routes by day-
light.
A word of warning is necessary to a
visitor starting on this journey. In
the winter cold of from 22" to 23°
F. below zero is not at all un-
common on the higher parts of the
line, whilst in summer 128° inside
the house is not an unfrequent tem-
perature at Nari. It is scarcely neces-
sary to say that the consequences
of insufficient clothing may be very
serious to travellers or their servants
who make this trip as part of a cold
weather tour.
The Harmi Route—Leaving Sibi
the first 7 m. are in open country.
At 140 m. (from Ruk) Nari, the
road enters the hills and traverses most
difiicult passes, constantly crossing and
re-crossing the Nari river and its tribu-
taries. The difficulties of construction
on this part of the line were very great.
The scenery will reward sustained at-
tention to
162 m. Kochali sta.
191 m. Harnai sta. DE. A good
road diverges here N.E. to the military
cantonmcnt of Loralai on the frontier
road that runs from Dera Ghazi Khan
E. on the river Indus to Pishin in the
197 in. Nasak Frontier sta.
208 m. Shahrig sta., where a halt is
made for refreshments.
225 m. Dirgi sta. Thence to

230 m. Mang'i sta. the scenery is
unequalled. “ The whole is absolutely
barren, and it looks like a great store-
house of the earth’s material rather
than a finished portion of our world."
In this length the Ohappa Rift is passed.
Here a huge mountain has the appear-
ance of having been cracked from top
to bottom through the solid mass of
limestone. The rift itself is passed at
nearly 300 ft. above the bed of the
stream, and the traveller at several
places seems suspended in the air. In
approaching and leaving the rift the
train constantly runs in and out of
tunnels and across high bridges. The
mountainous country continues to
252 m. Pullers Camp sta.
there to '
From
268 m. Bostan junc. sta. (for Quetta)
(R.) it is comparatively open.
Leaving Quetta behind for the time,
the traveller may continue his journey
to the Afghan frontier on the way to
Kandahar.
About 14 m. beyond Bostan junc.
the Lora River is passed, the first stream
the traveller will have seen on the
Central Asian watershed, all the rivers
he has hitherto crossed draining into
the Arabian Sea.
298 m. Gulistan sta. In the infancy
of these lines a short surface railway
was laid from here towards the Gwaja
Pass, an alternative route to Kandahar.
It is not now used, the main line
turning due N. to
306 m. Kills. Abdulla (R) Passen-
gers are not carried beyond this point.
eyond this the rly. is only used for
military purposes.
366 m. Shela Bagh is at the foot of
the Kojak Pass, and near the S.E. end
of the tunnel passing under the Kwaja
Amran Mountains. This tunnel is 2§
m. long. Passing through it we reach
the present ending of the line at
371 m. Chaman sta., where there is
a small military outpost.
The Kojak Pass is surmounted by a
fine military road, and those who have


228 ROUTE 15.
I ndia
RUK JUNCTION TO QUETTA, ETC.
the opportunity should ascend it (7500
ft.) to see the magnificent view, W. over
the Kadomi Plain, and N. beyond Kan-
gahar, which is hidden by intervening
ills.
When the line is continued to Kanda-
har it will necessarily make a long bend
to the N. to obtain length for the
descent into the Kadanai Valley, which
lies far below Chaman, and the distance
to Kandahar will be about 85 m.
The traveller must now retrace his
steps to Bostan junc. , and is advised
ently placed as regards Khelat, from
which it is distant 103 m. N. The
town is surrounded by a mud wall, and
has two gates, one to the E. and another
to the S., which latter is called the
Shikarpuri Gate. N.E. stands the Mini
or Fort, a former residence of the Khan
of Khelat, from which there is a very
extensive view of the neighbourin
valley. It is now used as an arsena
for the force. Beleli is another artifi-
cial mound in the lines of that name.
Quetta is surrounded by strongly-forti-







‘Hl Scale of Miles.
0 IO 20

168“ East Cr, J





$011”be Grog ‘ Lstab'Lortdon
Qusr'rs.
to return to Sind by the Quetta Loop
Line, which traverses the Bolan Pass.
The railway line from Bostan to the
Bolan traverses the Quetta Valley,
which is fertile and populous. It has
been administered by British oflicers
since 1877. Passing 7 m. Kuchlak,
and 13 m. Belch, we reach
21 m.Quetta sta. * (R ), D. B. It is so
called by the Afghans, but is designated
by the Brahuis, t 1e people of the country,
Shal. It is situated at the N. end of
the Shal Valley, and is very conveni-

fied lines, and commanding, as it does
with 'its strongly-fortified outpost of
Belcli, both the Kojak and Bolan Passes,
it forms one of the most important
frontier posts of our Indian Empire.
It has rapidly increased and prospered
since the British occupation, and now
contains about 12,000 to 15,000 in-
habitants, of whom many are Afghans.
In summer the climate is considered
very pleasant, the heat being tempered
by cool breezes from the lofty hills
which surround the valley, but in
winter the cold is very severe. On the


ROUTE 16.
229
SAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
whole, the station is now regarded as
one of the best in our Indian Empire.
Numerous gardens and orchards abound
in the suburbs, and the water-supply
is good.
Quetta was occupied by British
troops in the first expedition to Kabul,
and Captain Bean was appointed the first
Political Agent. Since 1876 a British
political officer has again resided at
Quetta under the official designation
of the Governor-General’s Agent for
British Baluchistan, a district ceded to
us by the Treaty of Gundamuk. Dur-
ing the Afghan cam signs of 1878-
1880, Quetta formed tiie base of opera-
tions for the Bombay column. It is
now the headquarters of a strong
brigade, and a flourishing native town
has sprung up close to the cantonments.
47 m. Kotal Darwaza sta. Looking
back on the ascent to this place there
is a beautiful view of the Quetta Valley.
From this commences the Bolan Pass.
The ruling gradient of the railway is 1
in 40, but in places it is as steep as 1
in 25. The passage of this defile occu-
pies an important place in the history
of all our Afghan campaigns.
The Bola'n River, a torrent rising at
Sir-i-Bolan, flows through the whole
length of the pass, and like all mount-
ain streams, is subject to sudden floods;
in one of which, in 1841, a British de-
tachment was lost with its baggage.
When the stream was not swollen,
however, artillery was conveyed through
without any serious difficulty. In 1839
a Bengal column, with its artillery,
consisting of 8-in. mortars, 24-pounder
howitzers, and 18-pounder uns, went
through the Bolan in six ays. The
narrowest parts of the pass are just
above Khundilani, and beyond Sir-i-
Bolan. At the Khtmdilani Gorge the
cliffs of conglomerate on either side
rise to a height of 800 ft., and when
the stream is in flood it completely fills
the gorge. At Sir-i-Bolan the rocks
are of limestone, and the passage is so
narrow that only three or four men can
ride abreast. The temperature in the
pass during summer and autumn is very
high ; water is abundant and good, but
firewood is scarcely procurable. The

pass was infested by plundering Balu-
chis and Brahuis, who lived by robbing
caravans, and deterred peaceably dis-
posed tribes from settling in the valleys ;
but since the British occupation these
depredations have been completely sup-
pressed. Trade is prospering in the
pass, and cultivation, so far as climate
and soil permit, is progressing. From
Bibi Nani a mountain road leads to
Khelat, distant 110 m., and Barade,
Rudbar, Narmah, Takhi, and Kishan.
The bottom of the pass is reached at
Rindli, and there are no special obstacles
on the way into Sibi.
ROUTE 1 6
SAHARANPUR, BY Ounn AND ROHIL-
CUND RAILWAY, T0 HARDWAR,
BAREILLY, Lucxuow, FYZABAD,
Bananas, AND Mosur. SARAI.
Saharanpore sta. :0: (see Rte. 11A).
22 m. Roorkee sta. (Rurkz'), B.B., a
modern manufacturing town and mili-
tary station, stands on a ridge overlook-
ing the bed of the Solani river. Up to
1845 it was merely a mud-built village,
it is now a flourishing town of 16,000
inhabitants, with broad metalled road-
ways meeting at right angles, and lined
with excellent shops. The Ganges
Canal passes to the E. of the town
between raised embankments. It is
the headquarters of the Ganges Canal
workshops and iron foundry, established
in 1845-1852.
The Thomason Civil Engineering
College, was founded in 1847. The
students are partly English youths born
in the country, partly Eurasians and
natives ; with special classes for soldiers
picked for their ability. There are a
Church, Dispensary, Police Station,
Botanical Gardens, Post Office, and a
Mission School of the S. P. G. There


230 ROUTE 16.
India
SAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
is also an excellent Meteorological
Observatory.
33 m. Lhaksar junc. sta. [A branch
line from here runs N. 16 m. to Hard-
war, giving access to Dera Dun and
the hill-stations of Mussoorie, Landour,
and Chakrata (see Rte. 17).]
73 m. Nasina sta. (R.)
120 m. Moradabad sta. * lies at the
S.E. of the city, l; m. S. of the
junction with the Meerut road. The
DH. is nearly 1% In. due N. of the
railway station. But at the railway
station are Rooms which perhaps a
traveller may be allowed to occupy.
Moradabad (pop. 73,400) is on the
right bank of the Ramganga river.
Beyond the jail, to N.W. of town, are
the Cantonments and civil station.
St. Paul’s Church is W. of the D.B.
About 5 m. N. of the railway sta. is the
American Church, built by their Metho-
dist Mission in 1874. It is used as a
school, except during hours of service.
The Mission has also a vernacular school
in the city. The office of the Tahsildar,
on the opposite side of the road, is a
handsome white building. 1 m.
from this church is the Zil'a School,
on the banks of the Ramganga,
which is here crossed by a bridge of
boats. To the W. of the school is the
Badshai Musjid. The date is in the
reign of Shah Jehan, 1628-58 A.D.
The principal mosque, to the S. of the
school, is a plain large building, with
an inscription in the central alcove
inside in Persian. The date corre-
sponds to 1636 A.D. N. of the school
are the ruins of Rustam Khan’s fort,
the walls of which are of burnt brick,
and are from 4 to 6 ft. thick; it is
quite close to the Ramganga. A large
well here is called the Mint Well, be-
cause it supplied water to the Mint
in which Rustam Khan coined his
money.
What occurred at Moradabad during
the Mutiny has been told by Kaye in
his Sepoy War, vol. iii. p. 252. The
29th B.N.I., posted at this station,
were for some time kept steady by Mr.
Cracroft Wilson, the Judge, but the

gunners of the N. Artillery showed
from the first unmistakable signs of an
inclination to revolt. On the 18th of
May a regiment from Meerut, which had
mutinied, came down upon Moradabad,
and arrived at the Gangan Bridge.
They had with them a considerable
treasure, which they had carried off
from Zafarnagar. Mr. Wilson moved
against them with a detachment of
the 29th, under two excellent officers,
Captain Faddy and Lieut. Clifford, and
a body of Irrcg. Horse. He surprised
the 20th asleep, and eight or ten of them
were seized, one shot dead by a trooper,
and the treasure captured. Next day
the mutineers of the 20th entered
Moradabad, when one was shot dead
by a Sikh Sepoy of the 29th, and four
were made prisoners. The slain man
was a relative of one of the 29th, who
prevailed on a number of his comrades
to go to the jail and get his body, and
also to rescue the military prisoners.
The guard at the jail fraternised with
these men, and all the prisoners in the
jail were released, but the Adjutant of
the 29th and Wilson with a few Sepoys
and a few Irregulars captured 150 of
the prisoners, and lodged them again
in the jail. In this manner Wilson
continued to make use of the 29th,
though in a dangerous mood, and he
even disarmed two companies of Sa rs
who marched in from Roorkee an head
mutinied. But when the news of the
mutiny at Bareilly arrived it became
impossible to restrain the Sepoys any
longer, and Wilson had to make over
the treasure to them, and escape with
the other civilians and their wives to
Meerut.
147 m. Chandausi junc. sta. (R). [A
branch line from here runs S.W. 60
m. to Aligarh on the E. I. Rly. near
Dhamm' sta., 19 m. from Chandausi.
Good snipe and duck shooting may be
had ; no accommodation]
191 m. Bareilly junc. sta. at: (R).
[From here the Rohilcund and Kamaon
Railway runs N. to 66 m. Kathgodam,
under Naini Tal, and 30 m. to Phili-
bhect, D.B. (see Rte. 16A).]
Bareilly was the chief city of Rohil-


ROUTE 16.
231
SHAHJAHANPUR—LUCKNOW
cund, and long had a bad name for
disafl'ection. In 1816 an insurrection
broke out, in consequence of the im-
position of a new tax on houses. A
Mufti, named Muhammad Aiwaz, a
man of great age and reputed sanctity,
encouraged the popular excitement.
He was soon joined by 5000 armed
men. They attacked the troops, but
after a sharp conflict were dispersed,
with the loss of several hundred men
killed and wounded.
Some remembrance of this affair, no
doubt, lingered amongst the pop. of
Bareilly when the news of the outbreak
of 1857 at Meerut and Delhi arrived.
There was a small fort to the S. of the
city, and pus-sixth of a mile to the E.
of the railway station, which had been
built by Government for a citadel,
after the insurrection of 1816. It
was quadrangular, with a good ditch
and two bastions projecting from op-
posite angles, but nothing seems to
have been done to place it in a state
of defence. In cantonments there were
native troops only. There was a large
cluster of civilians, and altogether there
were nearly 100 Christians, exclusive of
women and children. On the 31st May
the outbreak took place. Parties of
the 68th set fire to the English houses,
they then shot down every white man
they met. Major Pearson and four
other officers of the 18th escaped from
the ground, but were killed by the
villagers of Rampatti. The Commis-
sioner, Mr. Alexander, escaped to Naini
Tal, as did Mr. Guthrie, the Collector
and Magistrate ; and the Joint Magis-
trates, Mr. Parley and Mr. Currie.
The Judges, Mr. D. Robertson, Mr.
Raikes, and also Dr. Hay and Mr. Orr,
were all killed. Thus the higher
civilians, with several subordinates,
were slain, as were many merchants
and traders, with their wives and
children. Khan Bahadur Khan, a
descendant of Hafiz Rahmat Khan, the
famous Rohilla chief, was proclaimed
Viceroy, and he ordered all Christians
to be killed. Mr. Handsborough, the
Superintendent of the Jail, who had
defended himself for a full day, was
then brought to the Nawab and cut to
pieces.

235 m. Shahjahanpur sta.:k (R.)
Chief town of a district with civil sta.
and military cantonment. Pop. 78,000.
The station contains an English church
and three churches for native converts
belonging to the American Methodist
Mission, which also su ports several
schools. The principal) local manu-
facture is sugar. The Rosa sugar fac-
tory and rum distillery is situated on
the Garra river a few in. from the city,
with which it is connected by railway.
274 m. Hardoi sta. (R.), D.B.
337 m. Lnoxuow junc. sta. (R.)*
[Branch S. W. to Cawnpore.] The city
covers 36 sq. m., and has a pop. of272,600
including the cantonments, of whom
three-fifths are Hindus. It is the largest
city in the Indian Empire after Calcutta,
Madras, and Bombay. It is the capital
of Oudh, a province with an area of
26,131 sq. m., and has been so since
Asafu-daulah in 1775 moved the seat
of Government to it. It is situated on
the right bank of the Goomti, but there
are suburbs on the left bank. The
deepest interest attaches to the ruined
Residency and its crowded cemetery,
and to every stage of its defence by a
handful of men against a large army.
No Englishman can fail to be moved
by the memories of the deeds done in
Lucknow when Henry Lawrence, Have-
lock, Outram, and Colin Campbell
commanded, and brave men served
with devotion and gave their lives
ungrudgingly.
The traveller must not expectvto
find in the capital of Oudh the beauti-
ful architecture of Northern or Western
India, or the elaborate carvin s of the
South. The buildings of Luc now are
poor in design and execution, but are
escribed to assist the visitor who has
time to devote to them. Should he
be hurried he must remember that a
day spent in Agra, Delhi, or Ahmeda-
bed will disclose to him more to admire
than a month in Lucknow.
On the rt. bank of the Goomti is the
Chatr Manzil Palace (see below). It
used to be the city Residency,—-not to
be confounded with the cantonment
Residency, S. of the city, on the S. banks


232 ROUTE 16.
India
SAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
of Haidar's or Ghaziu d’-din’s Canal,
and here described.
Before visiting the Residency, the
traveller should on no account fail to
stop at the Ajaib Ghar Museum, in
order to study the Model of the
Residency made by Chaplain Moore.
By so doing he will start with a far
better grasp of the relative positions of
the buildings and of the scenes of the
memorable siege than he would other-
wise have. It represents the Residency
before the clearances were made. It
shows the great disadvantages under
which the besieged fought, as the
enemy were close to them all round,
and under cover. But this model is
not the only attraction to the Museum ;
it also contains an extremely interest-
ing collection of Buddhist sculptures
and fragments of architecture from
Muttra and other places which have
been brought together here. Amongst
them is one fragment, unearthed in 1891
by Dr. A. Fuhrer, which possesses very
considerable archaeological interest. it
is a torana bearingarelief representin
a stupa worshipped by Centaurs anrgl
Harpies, or, as the Hindus would say,
Kinnaras, and Garudas or Suparnas.
Centaurs have been found on the
Buddhist sculptures at Bharhut and
Gays, while Muttra has furnished the
Silenus groups and Hercules strangling
the Nemean lion. This find is a
further addition to the monuments
which prove the influence of Hellen-
istic art among the Hindus of the last
centuries preceding our era.
The Residency. —This place and its
environs demand the first attention of
the traveller. The Residency itself,
with its various dependencies, such as
the Baillie Guard, the Barracks, the
Hospital, etc., is 2150 ft. long from
N.W. to S.E., and 1200 ft. broad from
E. to W., that is, from the Baillie
Guard to Gubbins’ Battery. The first
thing the traveller will see on his visit
to the Residenc is an Obelisk, erected
by Lord North rook, in front of the
Baillie Guard, with an inscription in
memory of the native ofiicers and Sepoys
who died near this spot nobly perform-
ing their duty.
On the evening of the 17th of May

a part of the 32d Foot, with guns, had
been brought into the Residency from
the cantonments (see Kaye, vol. iii. p.
437), andwith them came great numbers
of Englishwomen and children. The
Treasury contained over 60 lakhs
of rupees. A guard of Sepoys had been
in charge, but a European guard was
now substituted. The defences of the
Residency and its buildings, beginning
from the Baillie Guard on the E. and
proceeding to the N., were, let,
Alexander’s Battery; 2d, Water Gate
Battery; 3d, Redan Battery; 4th, a
palisade; and then turning S., the
Innis Garrison, the Bhusa Guard,
Ommaney‘s Battery, the Gubbins’s
Garrison, and Gubbins’s Battery, the
Sikh Square; and turning to the E., the
Cawnpore Battery, Thomas's Battery,
Anderson's Garrison, Post Office Garri-
son, Judicial Garrison, Sago’s Guard,
and Financial Garrison. The gateway
of the Baillie Guard was an ordinary
gateway, commanded by Lieut. Aitken.
On enterin through it, Dr. Fayrer’s
house will ie seen to the left, 50 ft.
back. In a room in this house Sir
Henry Lawrence died, and a written
notice calls attention to the fact. At
100 ft. from the Baillie Guard is a
small pillar inscribed “Financial Post,"
and this is the first of a series of such
pillars which surround the Residency,
and mark the spots where the different
detachments of the garrison were posted.
The ground to the W. of this pillar-
rises in mounds, and a little way to
the S.E. of this pillar is another with
“Sago's Post”; then comes “Ger-
mon’s Post." At the top of the slope,
and to the rear of Germon’s, was
“Residency Post." To the N. is
“Post Office Post,” and in line with
Germon’s is “Anderson’s Garrison."
To the W. of Anderson’s, in the same
line, is the Cawnpore Battery pillar.
This was the most dangerous ost of
all. The mutineers had rifles ed in
rests in the house opposite, and swept
the road that led through the Residency
enclosure here. To show one’s self in
that road was certain death. At 50 ft. to
the N.W. is Duprat’s pillar. Duprat was
a gallant Frenchman, who had served
in the French army. On W. side of


.3 gig; £5. sissu


3OZMHQDQ


ROUTE 16.
LUCKNOW 233
it was the “ Martiniére Post." The boys
of the Martiniere School were employed
in many ways, but took no part in the
actual fighting. Johannes’s house is
30 yds. to the S. In rear of it is Luke's
Battery. In the extreme W. is a pillar
marking Gubbins’s house, and in rear
of it is the pillar of a Sikh regiment.
To the E. is Ommaney’s house, and E.
of it Begam Kothi, a large building
in which the ladies were quartered, and
where they were comparatively safe.
At the extreme N. is a mandir or
temple. Beyond Begam Kothi to the
N.W. is the Residency, the finest build-
ing in Lucknow, with a subterraneous
apartment, in which the women of the
32d were located. Close to this is an
artificial mound 30 ft. high, which now
has a handsome white marble Cross,
20 ft. high at the summit. This is the
Lawrence Memorial, and on it is in-
scribed—
In memory of
MAJ OR-GEN. SIIItZ IéEl‘éNRY LAWRENCE,
And the brave'nie’n who fell
In defence of tlée Residency,
185 .
The traveller should go round the
entrenchments of the Residency, and
will do well to ascend the tower, which
is propped up, and 55 ft. high. There
is a fine view from the top. Below it
is spread out the Cemetery, the most
interesting spot in Lucknow, where
2000 heroic men and women lie. It is
shaded with tall trees, festooned with
creepers, and laid out with flowers and
walks. The monuments are numerous
and interesting. A simple tomb marks
the spot where Henry LaWrence lies
buried, and on it is inscribed the touch-
ing epitaph, dictated by himself—
Here lies
HENRY LAWRENCE,
Who tried to do his duty.
May the Lord have mercy on his soul !
Born 28th of June 1806.
Died 4th of July 1857.
Here follows a very brief account of
what took place before the attack on
the Residency and during its siege :—
The first startling event that occurred
was the mutiny of the 7th Oudh Irreg.
Infantry, 7 th May 1857, at Musa Bagh,

a palace of one of the ex-king‘s wives,
situated at 43; m. from the Resi-
dency. Major Gall, commanding the
4th Irreg. Cavalry, on being informed
of the imminent danger of the Euro-
pean officers, galloped up to the vicinity
with his troopers. Soon after Sir H.
Lawrence arrived with a mixed force
of Europeans and natives. The mu-
tineers then broke and fled, but some
were made prisoners, and others gave
up their arms. Sir H. Lawrence, a
few days afterwards, held a darbar in
the Cantonment Residency ; the troops
were drawn up, and two native officers,
who had given information of the
intended outbreak, were romoted.
Sir H. Lawrence harangued t e troops,
and the city was tranquil for some
weeks afterwards. On the 23d of
May, two detachments of cavalry were
sent to Cawnpore, to clear the road
between it and Agra. Near Mainpuri
the troopers mutinied, and killed one
or moreof their officers, the rest escaping
by flight.
On the 30th May the Mutiny began
in the cantonments, and quickly became
general. Brigadier Handscombe was
shot dead, as was Lieut. Grant, of the
71st. The mutineers attacked Sir Henry
and his staff at the artillery ground,
but were driven off with some rounds of
grape, which killed many of them. On
the 31st of May a Mr. Mendes was mur-
dered in his own house, in the city.
Martial law was now proclaimed ;
but Sir Henry was of opinion that the
Residency would stand only a. fort-
night’s siege. Owing to Sir Henry’s
foresight, and by his orders, supplies of
wheat and all sorts of provisions were
brought into the Residency and Machchi
Bhawan, which had belonged to Nawab
’Ali Khan, and was bought by Sir
Henry for 50,000 rs. It was sur-
rounded by high walls and towers.
Towards the N. it commanded the
Iron and Stone Bridges. The place,
however, proved of little service. The
cholera soon broke out in it, and there
were not sufficient mentohold the place.
Consequently, on the 1st of July, the
garrison having been withdrawn, the
Machchi Bhawan was blown up. On
the 11th of June the cavalry of the


234 ROUTE 16.
India
SAHARANI’UR TO MOGUL SARAI
Military Police mutinicd, and the
infantry followed their example; but
one Subahdar, one Jam’adar, six Ha-
waldars, and 26 Sepoys remained faith-
ful, and continued to guard the jail.
Meantime, very large bodies of mutin-
eers were advancing on Lucknow, and
on the 30th of June Sir Henry, with a
small mixed force, marched out to dis-
perse them. He was defeated, losing
some guns and 119 English soldiers.
The rebels now pressed the siege of the
Residency with vigour. On the 2d of
July Sir Henry was wounded while
resting on his couch in his room by a
shell ; and after he had made over the
office of Chief Commissioner to Major
Banks, and conferred the chief military
command on Colonel Inglis, he passed
away on the morning of the 4th July.
The Coolies who had been building the
works of defence all fled, and with
them went most of the domestic
servants. The strongest post that the
besieged had was the Redan Battery, at
the N.E. an le, built and fortified by
Captain Fu ton, of the Engineers.
It formed rather more than three-
fourths of a circle, and was elevated
considerabl above the street below.
It was arme with two eighteen-pounders
and one nine-pounder, which could play
on the whole river's side and the
buildings on the opposite bank. Along
the Redan, as far as the hospital, was
a wall of fascines and earthwork, with
loopholes formed by sandbags, through
which the besieged fired with certain
effect; and outside the Residency and
the hospital, and as far as the Baillie
Guard, was a clear space, 1000 yds.
lon and 400 wide, which, being ex-
cee ingly low, formed a glacis for the
entrenchments above.
The Residency, with its lofty rooms,
fine verandahs, and large porticoes, its
range of subterraneous apartments, its
ground floor and two upper stories,
afforded accommodation to nearly 1000
persons—men, women, and children.
The hospital, formerly the banqueting
hall, had only two stories. The front
rooms were given to officers, the back
part was made a dispensary, and the
other rooms allotted to soldiers. A
battery of three guns was placed be-

tween the Water Gate and the hospital.
The right wing of the hospital was
used for making fuses and cartridges,
and in front of it was a battery of three
mortars. The Baillie Guard was a
continuation of the hospital, but on
much lower ground. A part of it was
used as a store-room, part as the
treasury, lpart as an office, and the rest
as barrac s for the Sepoys, who gar-
risoned it under Lieut. Aitken. Dr.
Fayrer’s house, like the Baillie Guard,
faced the E. It was commanded by
Captain Weston and Dr. Fayrer. The
Post Office was a very important
position, commanding the jail and
mosque to the right, and the Clock
Tower and offices of the Tara Kothi to
the left, all being outside the entrench-
ment. It was made a barrack‘room for
the soldiers, and was armed with three
guns. The Financial Office outpost
was commanded by Captain Sanders of
the 13th. It was a lar e two-storied
house, and well barricade . The Begam
Kothi was nearly in the centre of all
the defences. A double range of out-
offiees formed a square within a square,
one side of which was an lmambarah,
afterwards converted into an oflicers’
hospital.
On the 2d of July, the day of Sir
Henry’s being wounded, the rebels
attacked the Baillie Guard Gate. The
deaths now averaged from 15 to 20
daily. Many were killed by an African,
who fired from J ohannes’s house, outside
the entrenchment, without ever miss-
ing. On the 8th, Captain Mansfield
and three other officers, and Maycock,
a civilian, sallied out, spiked a gun,
and killed about 40 of the rebels with-
out losing a man, though three were
wounded. On the 9th another sortie
was made, when a private named
O‘Keene spiked a gun. On the 10th,
the ammunition of the rebels’ cannon
falling short, they began to fire pieces
of wood, copper coin, iron, and even
bullock’s horns. On the 14th the
enemy made a general attack. On the
16th the rebels made a night attack on
Gubbins’s Battery, but were beaten
back. On the 20th of July they ex-
ploded a mine near the Redan. They
attempted to storm the Baillie Guard,


ROUTE 16.
LUOKNOW 235
and made their assault from every point,
pouring in volleys of musketry, and
sending shell after shell into the en-
trenchments. As they approached
they were mowed down in scores by
grape, and their leaders were picked
off by the English riflemen. As the
fire of the enemy became more and
more intense, even the wounded and sick
English rose from their couches, seized
muskets and fired as long as their
strength allowed. The mine the rebels
fired near the Redan did no harm to that
battery, but they, supposing a breach
to have been made, rushed up the
glacis at the double, with fixed bayon-
ets. Hundreds were shot down; but
their leader, waving his sword, on
which he placed his cap, shouted to
them to come on. Again they ad-
vanced, but the a e made hu e s
in their ranks, agd a? musket balgl kfiigd
their leader. They then retreated,
leaving heaps of slain and wounded.
At this time a furious attack was made
on Innes’s outpost, where Lieut. Lough-
nan, of the 13th N.I., with 24 English
soldiers, 12 civilians, and 25 Sepoys,
beat back a whole host of rebels, who
at last slowly retreated, carrying off
100 of their wounded comrades. At
the Financial and Sago’s Posts the
columnof rebels with the green standard
was after some hours' hard fighting
beaten off, with the loss of all their
commanders and about 60 men. The
fight ended at 4 RM.
Though beaten at all points, on the
20th the enemy maintained a furious
cannonade, and planted new batteries.
Brigadier Inglis assumed command on
the 21st. Owing to the fire of the
enemy, the windows had to be barri-
caded, and even then men were shot in
their beds. One great torment was
the flies, which swarmed in incredible
numbers. The ground was black with
them. The besieged could not sleep,
they could scarcely eat on account of
them. On the 25th a letter was re-
ceived from the Quartermaster-General
of Havelock's force, telling the besieged
to be of good cheer, for a relieving force
was coming in large numbers. But
days passed and the rebels were busy
with their mines, and but for the

countermining by Captain Fulton of
the Engineers, the place must have
fallen.
On the 10th of August there was
another general attack, but the enemy
showed little courage, and they were
easily beaten off. On the same day a
mine was exploded at Sago’s garrison,
and blew down some out-houses; two
English soldiers were blown into the
air, but both escaped. Another mine
between the Brigade Mess and the
Cawnpore Battery blew down a stock-
ade, and the enemy attempted to enter,
but were repulsed. The 8-in. howitzer
which the rebels took at Chinhat
played on Innes’s post with fatal efi'ect,
bringing down beam after beam, and
making many breaches. On the 11th
of August Major Anderson, the chief
engineer, died. On the 14th Captain
Fulton exploded a mine under a. house
near Sago’s garrison, which was blown
up, and in it were buried from 40 to 60
of the enemy. On the 18th the
Second Sikh Square, garrisoned by 15
Christian drummers and musicians,
and 15 Sikhs, was blown up by the
rebels, and buried 7 Christians and
2 Sikhs under its ruins. A large
breach was made, and the enemy tried
to enter, but their leader was killed
and they retired. Captain Fulton
with a number of volunteers then
sallied, destroyed a number of houses,
and blew up the shaft of another mipe
begun by the rebels.
On the 20th the house called Johan-
nes’s was blown up by Captain Fulton,
killing 60 to 80 of the rebels. Captain
Fulton then headed a sally, and after
driving out the insurgents from several
buildings, blew them up. Lieut.
Macabe headed another party and
spiked two guns. Previous to this
Lieut. Macabe of the 32d had attacked
Johannes's house, and bayoneted a
number of the enemy, who were found
asleep, and amongst them the African,
who had picked off dozens of the English
during the first days of the siege, and
had been christened by the soldiers
“ Bob the Nailer." At this time a
sergeant of the Bhusa guard named
Jones, and 10 others, mostly native
Christians, deserted, but were killed


236 ROUTE 16.
India
SAHARANI’UR TO MOGUL SARAI
by the insurgents. On the 29th of
August Angad the spy brought a letter
from Cawnpore saying that the relief
would take place in three weeks. On the
5th of September the rebels made
another attack, having previously ex-
ploded three mines. They advanced to
the Brigade Mess boldly, but were
driven back with the loss of 100 men.
They then attacked the Baillie Guard
and several other places, but were
similarly repulsed. On the 14th,
Captain Fulton was killed at Gubbins’s
Battery, where a 9-pound shot took
his head completely ofl'. On the 23d
of September a furious cannonade
raged outside the city from 10 A.M.
to 4 P.M., and confirmed the news re-
ceived the day before that Outram
and Havelock were coming to relieve
the besieged. On the 25th smoke and
the crack of musketry showed that
street-fighting was going on. The fire
advanced steadily and gradually to-
wards the entrenchments, and at last
a loud shout proclaimed the arrival of
the long-expected reinforcements.
This relief was not, however, effected
withoutmostserious loss ; for500 officers
and men were killed and wounded.
Among these Brigadier-General Neill
and Major Couper were killed, and
ten other officers fell, besides those who
died of their wounds. At this time
the houses were all perforated with
cannon shot, and the Cawnpore Battery
was a mass of ruins; the outpost at
Innes‘s house roofless ; and out of the
Brigade Mess alone 435 cannon balls
were taken. The besieged were not,
however, free. Those who relieved
them had possession of the Tara Kothi
and the Farad Bakhsh Palace, as also
the Chatr Manzil Palace, which were
on the river's side, and from which the
enemy’s fire had been most fatal, par-
ticularly from the Clock Tower.
Though the garrison had extended
their ositions, the enemy were far
from a ndoning the city, and Outram
and Havelock with their troops were
themselves blockaded. On the 26th
of September a sortie was made, and
our men spiked two mortars and blew
up a powder magazine. Captain Lowe
brought in as trophies an 18-pounder,

a 9-pounder, and five smaller guns.
After this the garrison frequently took
the offensive and captured several posi-
tions. Attempts were then made to
open communications with ’Alam Bagh,
where the relieving force had deposited
their baggage and ammunition, with 4
guns and 300 men as an escort. The
attempt failed, for an intervening
mosque was filled with rifiemen, and
too strongly fortified to be taken
without very great loss. The be-
sieged now re ired their defences,
and extended tiizm near Innes’s post,
by taking and fortifying a mound,
which became one of their strongest
positions. Fighting went on inces-
santly. Provisions had again become
scarce. The palaces which had been
taken by our troops continued to be the
object of severe attacks. On the 10th
of November Sir Colin Campbell reached
’Alam Bagh, and relieved the garrison
besieged there. At this time James
Kavanagh, an uncovenanted oflicer who
had distinguished himself in several
sorties, offered to carry dcspatches from
Sir James Outram at Lucknow to Sir
Colin Campbell at 'Alam Bagh, and
owing to his courage and address suc-
ceeded in conveying them through the
lines of the enemy. Sir Colin, leaving
his baggage in the ’Alam Bagh, pro-
ceeded to the Dilkusha, in which move-
ment his advanced guard encountered
a heavy fire, but drove the rebels past
the Martiniere College. On the 12th
an attack of the rebels was repulsed,
and on the 14th the rearguard joined
Sir Colin. On the 16th Sir Colin’s
whole force, except the 8th, left to
guard the Dilkusha, advanced against
the Sikandara Bagh. After a desperate
conflict, the 4th Sikhs, the 93d High-
landers, and the 52d, broke into the
entrance, and next day 2000 dead
bodies of the rebels told the result.
While this battle was raging, the
English suffered much from a mur-
derous fire directed upon them from
the Shah Najaf mosque. This place
was next taken by Peel’s Naval Brigade
and the 93d. The troops then rested
for the night, though fired on con-
tinually from the adjacent buildings.
On the 17th the Mess-house, a large,


ROUTE 16.
LUCKNOW 237
two-storied, flat-roofed house, flanked
by two square turrets, was stormed. To
keep up a line of communication with
the Dilkusha was the next object,
and was effected with some loss. The
enemy then made a fierce attack on
the Mess-house and the Highlanders
in the barracks taken on the 16th, but
were repulsed with great loss. On the
afternoon of the 17th of November
Sir Colin met Outram and Havelock,
and loud shouts proclaimed that the
relief of Lucknow had been effected.
The British loss was 467 killed and
wounded, of whom 10 officers were
killed and 33 wounded. That evening
Sir Colin commanded the sick and
wounded, women and children, should
be moved from the Residency to the
Dilkusha. This was carried out on
the 22d. The enemy continued firing
into the old positions long after they
had been abandoned. On the 25th of
November General Havelock died.
The Machchi Bhawan and Great
Imambarahl are N.W. of the Resid-
ency. This fort was blown up on the
night of the 30th of June 1857, at the
commencement of the siege of the Resi-
dency. It has now been repaired and
extended, and includes the Great Imam-
barah. The Rumi Darwaza, or Con-
stantinople Gate, the W. entrance, is
said to have been built by Asafu-
daulah in imitation of that gate at
Constantinople from which the Turkish
Government derives its name of “ Sub-
lime Porte." This gate is 220 yds. to
the W. of the street leading to the
Imambarah. Entering under an arch,
you will find on the rt. a large mosque,
and ascend a number of steps to the
Imambarah, which faces N., and is said
to have cost a million sterling.
The central or great Hall is 163 ft.
long, and 53 ft. broad. The ceiling of
the octagonal room adjoining is hand-
somely ecorated, but not coloured.
A perfectly plain masonry slab, without
any inscription, marks where Asafu-
1 Literally the chief‘s (Imam) enclosure.
The word is “applied to a building maintained
by Shi’a communities in India for the express
purpose of celebrating the Muhamm cere-
monies ” in commemoration of the martyrdom
of the Sons of Ali (see Yule‘s Glossary of
Anglo-[Minn Words, etc.)

daulah was interred. From the
terraced roof of the Imambarah is a
magnificent view over the city. The
Imambarah was built in 1784 A.D., the
year of the great famine, to afford relief
to the people.
A few yds. to the left is an extensive
and old Baoli, which is very picturesque.
The mosque close by has Persian verses
over the door, with the date 1250 A.H.
=1834 A.D.
The original Machchi Bhawan was
built by the Shaiks, called also the
Shahzadahs or princes of Lucknow,
about two centuries ago. All that is
left of theirbuilding is the roundearthen
bastions on the S. of the road. The
high ground across the road within the
fort surmounted by a small mosque, is
Lakshman Tila, where Lakshman,
brother of Ramchandra, founded the
village of Lakshmanpur, the first in-
habited spot of the city whence it
derives its name. The mosque was
built by Aurangzib.
<1; in. W. of the Rumi Darwazah is
the Jumma Musjz'd, or principal
mosque, the most beautiful building
in Lucknow. Not far off is the Husain-
abad Imambamh, built by Muhammad
’Ali Shah, 1837 A.D., as a burial- ilacc
for himself. It consists of two large
enclosures, one of which is at right
angles to the other. This Imambarah
is small in comparison with that in the
Machchi Bhawan, but has some beauty
of execution and finish in detail. It
stands in a large quadrangle, which
has a marble reservoir of water in the
centre, crossed by a fanciful iron bridge.
The Imambarah is filled with mirrors
and chandeliers. The throne of the
king, covered with beaten silver, and
his wife’s divan, with solid silver sup-
ports, are to be seen here. There is
also, not far off, a seven-storied watch-
tower, also commenced by Muhammad
’Ali Shah, but interrupted by his death.
The Iron Bridge—This bridge over
the Goomti was brought from England
by order of the king, Ghaziu -din
Haidar. At 1% m. to the E. of it, on the
right bank of the Goomti, is the Tara-
wali Kathi, 0r Observatory (lit. Star
House), now occupied by the Bank of
Bengal, built by Nasiru-din Haidar.


ROUTE 16.
LUCKNOW 239
Here the advance under Sir Colin
Campbell received a severe check.
The Khurshid Manzil is in rear of
the Moti Mahal, and between it and
the Observatory. It is a strongly-built
plain house, which was fortified by the
rebels. It is now 9. Girls’ School affili-
ated to the Martiniere. It was stormed
by detachments of the 53d and 90th,
and the Naval Brigade, with some
Sikhs. It is interesting because here
Outram and Havelock met Sir Colin
Campbell, after severe loss in passing
the fire of the rebels.
Sikmwlam Bagh (Alexander Garden)
is about one-third of a mile to the E. by
S. of the Shah Najaf, and between them
lie the gardens of the Oudh Agri-horti-
cultural Society which are very exten-
sive. TheSikandara Bagh is 120 yds. stp,
and is surrounded by a high solid wal .
It was built by Wajid 'Ali, for one of
his ladies, named Sikandar Mahal.
During the Rebellion a body of Sepoys
retreated to this garden, under the
belief that there was an outlet to it,
through which they might escape.
They were hotly pursued, and were
unable to close the gate before two
officers of the 93d, and a gigantic
Subahdar of the Panjab Rifles, and
another tall owerful officer of that
regiment, ma e a rush at the gate, and
with their bodies prevented its being
closed. The Subahdar and one of the
officers of the Rifles were shot dead, but
the others got in and were followed by
their regiments, who bayoneted every
man inside the enclosure. In it is a
tomb to Lieut. Dobbs and the men who
were killed in the action.
The Martiniérc is 1§ m. to the S.E.
of the Sikandara Bagh. It is an irregu-
lar building, in a sort of debased Italian
style. The basement story is raised
to a good height above the ground, and
has extensive wings, but the super-
structure is biza'rra, and has not in-
correctly been stylcd “ a whimsical
pile,” though there is something strik-
ing in its great central tower. There
are four towers and a central one, sup-
ported by flying buttresses. The colle e
contains from 120 to 180 boys, who 0 -
tain a substantial and useful education
free of expense. This institution was

founded by Major-General Claude Mar-
tin. His tomb is in the E. crypt
of the chapel, a plain sarcophagus,
guarded by a marble grenadier, with
arms reversed, at each angle. This
tomb was restored in 1865.
General Martin was the son of a
coo er, and served as a soldier under
Lal y in the re iment of Lorraine. He
and some of iis comrades formed a
company of Chasseurs under Law, and
garrisoned Chandernagore, till taken
by Clive. He then entered the British
army, and rose to the rank of captain.
In 1776 he entered the service of the
Nawabs of Oudh, but the British
Government allowed him to retain his
rank, and to enjoy promotion. In
1783 he formed the acquaintance of
De Boig'ne, and took part with him in
cultivating indi o and lending money
to the Nawab, y which he acquired
a large fortune. It is said that Asafu-
daulah offered him 1,000,000 sterling
for the Martiniere. But the Nawab
died before the bargain was completed,
and General Martin himself died before
the building was finished, and he
directed it should be completed out of
the funds left to endow a school there.
The visitor should ascend to the roof,
where he will see the damage done by
the rebels to the building and statues.
They broke open the tomb of General
Martin, and scattered his bones about,
but they were collected and replaced
by the British. In the Martiniere Park
are the tombs of several oflicers killed
in action at this time.
Dilkusha, or “ heart - expanding, "
was a villa built by S'aadat ’Ali Khan,
in the midst of an extensive deer- ark.
It stands about 2 m. to the S. o the
Martiniere across the railway. It was
captured on the 12th of November 1857.
Here, on the 24th, General Havelock
expired, as is recorded in his epitaph at
the :Alam Bagh. The building is now
a ruin.
Wingfield Park is to the W. of
Dilkusha. It is very pretty, and is
adorned with many white marble
pavilions and statues, and has a large
pavilion in the centre, surrounded by
80 acres of grounds and fiower~gardens.
One statue represents a man attacked


240 ROUTE 16.
I ndld
SAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
by a wolf, and has on it, “The first
Premium adjudged to N. Read, by the
Society of Polite Arts, 100 guineas,
1761 A.D." There is said to be a
statue by Canova. This park was
named after Sir C. Wingfield, Chief
Commissioner.
’Alolm Bagh—This place is 13; m.
S.W. of the Oudh and Rohilcund
railway station, and is in a walled en-
closure of 500 sq. yds., and commands
the road to Cawnpore, for which reason
it was chosen for Sir J. Outram’s posi-
tion, when, on Sir Colin Campbell’s re-
treat with the women and the wounded,
he was left behind to keep the rebels in
check. It was built by Wajid ’Ali as
an occasional residence for a favourite
wife. Here is General Havelock’s tomb,
surmounted by an obelisk 30 ft. high,
with an inscription recording his death
on the 24th of November 1857.
Christ Church is situated near the
Post Office, and near the hotels and
shops. It is a. neat building with
a tower. The church compound is
prettily laid out with many flowers
and creepers. There are a number of
interesting tablets on the walls. Those
in memory of Sir James Outram and
Sir H. Lawrence deserve particular
'attention.
Badshahl Bagh is on the left bank of
the Goomti, and 1100 yds. from the
Residency. The mutineers had a
battery here, and from it came the
shell which killed Sir Henry Lawrence.
The remains of aqueducts and water-
works show that it must have been a
cool and delightful place before the
Mutiny.
About 3 m. from Lucknow are the
Elephant Stables of the Government
Commissariat Department, containing
at least 30 fine animals.
416 m. Fyzabad junc. sta. (R), D.B.
A short branch rly. from here to
Ajoolhyh (see below) joins the Oudh
and Rohilcund Railway to the Bengal
and N.W. Rly.]
Fyzabad is a municipality, the capital
of a district, and the headquarters of
the Commissioner. The city has fallen
into decay since the death, in 1816, of
Bahu Begam, who resided here for

many years. The pop. of Fyzabad and
Ajodhya (see below) is 79,000. There
are 36 Hindu temples, of which 25
are to Shiva, 10 to Vishnu, and one
belonging to the Nanak Shahis. There
are 114 mosques and one Imambarah.
The Ramnaumi Fair is attended by
500,000 pilgrims. Fyzabad is bounded
to the N. by the Gogra river, which
here divides into two streams, both
crossed by pontoon bridges. The
Cantonment lies to the N.W. of the
Indian city, at the S.W. corner of
which the railway from Benares to
Lucknow passes.
The Mausoleum of the Bahu Begam
is about 1% m. to the S.E. of the DB.
She was wife of Shuja’u-daulah, j
N awab of Oudh, and mother of Asafu-
daulah. It is by far the finest
mausoleum in the province of Oudh
and its neighbourhood. The cenotaph
is of marble without inscription. The
total height may be taken at 140 ft.
There is a very fine view from the top.
The Mausoleum of Shuja’u-daulah
is close by, and is something like the
Begam’s, but not nearly so grand or
imposing. At each of the four corners
of the building are an oblong reservoir,
and a square one. In the centre space
on the ground floor are three tomb-
stones without any writing. The
centre slab is that of Shuja’u-daulah.
His mother's is to the W., and that of
his son, Mansur ’Ali, to the E. In the
W. side of the enclosure is a mosque
at the N. end, with an Imambarah on
the S. The place for a. tablet is seen
in the E. face of the mosque wall,
but so carelessly were things done in
Oudh that it has not been filled in,
and nowhere is there any inscription,
though the building cost a vast sum.
The Divisimml Jail is only 5 m. to
the N.W. of the mausoleums; the
Church, St. Andrew’s, about 1 m. to
the N.\V. of the DE. The cemetery
is a little way to the N. of it. The
Civil Station cantonments and environs
are beautifully wooded with innumer-
able tamarind, mango, and other trees.
The Museum is interesting.
It is a short drive by Fort Calcutta,
whence will be seen the bridges over the
Gogra, to the Gupta Park, which is


ROUTE 16.
241
BULRAMPUR—GOONDA—AJODHYA
prettily laid out. At the S. end of the
park is a temple, where they say Ram
disappeared. The first Nawab of Oudh,
S’aadat ’Ali Khan, seldom resided at
Fyzabad, though it was his nominal
capital, nor did his successor Safdar
Jang; but in 1776 Shuja'u-daulah,
who succeeded, took up his permanent
residence there. When defeated at
Buxar he fled to Fyzabad and con-
structed the lofty entrenchment whose
ramparts of rammed clay frown over
the Gogra, and have been rendered
famous by the oratory of Burke and
Sheridan. At his death, in 1775, his
widow, the Bahu Begum, remained at
Fyzabad, while Asafu-daulah, the then
Nawab, removed to Lucknow.
[Fyzabad is the nearest station to
36 m. Bulrampur. Camel dak to
28 m. Goonda, thence by palki or
elephant]
[6 m. Ajodhya sta., Sanscrit
Ayudhya, on the banks of the Gogra,
is where the great Ram Chandra once
reigned. In the Gazetteer 1y" Oudh, vol.
i. p. 2, it is said that this town is to the
Hindu what Mecca is to the Moham-
medans and Jerusalem to the Jews.
The ancient city is said to have covered
an area of 48 kos, or 96 m., and to have
been the capital of Koshala, “the re-
splendent,” the country of the Solar
race of kings, of whom Manu was the
first. Fergusson says that from this
city Ayuthia, the capital of Siam, takes
its name. It is doubtful for what
reason the Solar race dispersed, but it
is certain that on leaving Ajodhya the
ancestors of the rulers of Oodeypur,
Jodhpur, and other Rajput cities
wandered with their followers over
India, until they at last settled in
Rajputana. For some centuries the
Buddhists, under Asoka and his
successors, were supreme. Vikramajit
is said to have restored Brahmanism,
and to have traced the ancient city by
the holy river Sarju, which was the
ancient name of the Gogra, and to
have indicated the shrines to which
pilgrims still flock. Tradition says
that Vikram ruled for 80 years, and
[India]

was succeeded by the Jogi Samundra
Pal, who spirited away the Rajah's soul
and entered his body. He and his
successors ruled for 643 years. This
dynasty was succeeded by a Jain
dynasty, the Shri Bastam family, and
these again by the Kanauj dynasty.
A copper grant of Jai Chand, the last
of the Kanauj Rathors, dated 1187
A.D., was found near Fyzabad. This
date is six years before his death (see
As. Soc. Jmmt. vol. x. part i. . 861).
Koshala was the cradle of Bu dhism,
for Shakya Muni, its founder, was
born at Kapila, in the Gorakhpur
district, and preached at Ajodhya.
Here, too, was born Rikhab Deo, of
Ikshwaku's royal race, who founded
the Jain faith. The Chinese traveller,
Hiouen Thsang found at Ajodhya 20
Buddhist monasteries with 3000 monks.
According to him, the celebrated Tooth-
brush Tree of Buddha grew here.
The road from Fyzabad cantonment
to Ajodhya (4 m.) is excellent, and
it may be found more convenient than
the railway. On entering Ajodhya,
turn to the left up a narrow street to a
place where there are a few shops;
then turn again to the left, and ascend
some steps, opposite Man Sing's house,
to a platform, where is the Janam
Sthan Temple. In the sanctum, the
door of which has a silver frame, are
images of Sita and Ram. Ram has
a gleaming jewel of large size, which
looks like a light-coloured sapphire.
The temple is an oblong of about
200 ft. x150 ft. The walls are 45 ft.
high, and seem strong enough for a
fortress; which justifies its name of
HamtmanG'arh, “ Hanuman’s fortress.”
It is also called Ramkot, and is said to
be of Aurangzib’s time. The neigh-
bouring trees swarm with middle-sized
gray monkeys of grave demeanour.
To the N.W. is the temple of Kanak
Bhawan, or Sone Ka Garh, with ima es
of Sita and Ram crowned with go d,
whence the name “Fortress of Gold."
This is said to be the oldest temple
here.
The Janam Sthan, or place where
Ram Chandra was born, is Q m. W. of
the Hanumau Garh. Close to the
door, and outside it, is a Mohammedan
R


242 ROUTE 16.
I nation
BAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
cemetery, in which are buried 75
Mohammedans who were killed in a
fight with the Hindus for the possession
of the temple in 1855. Up to that
time both Hindus and Mohammedans
used to worship in the temple. Since
British rule a railing has been put up,
within which the Mohammedans pray.
Outside, the Hindus make their offer-
ings. The actual Jamm Sthan is a
plain masonry platform, just outside
the mosque or temple, but within the
enclosure, on the left-hand side. The
primeval temple perished, but was re-
built by Vikram, and it was his temple
that the Mohammedans converted into
a mosque. Europeans are expected to
take 011' their shoes if they enter the
building, which is quite plain, with the
exception of twelve black pillars taken
from the old temple. On the pillar on
the left of the door on entering may be
seen the remains of a figure which ap-
pears to be either Krishna or an Apsara.
At about i m. to the N. of
Janam Sthan is Swarga. Dwara, or
Ram Ghat, where Rama bathed; and
one—eighth ofamile to the S.W. of it is
Lakshman’s Ghat, where Lakshman,
the half-brother of Rama, used to bathe.
1 In. to the S. of Hanuman Garh is the
Maui Pa/rbat, and to its S. again is the
Know Parbat and Sugm'v Parbat, hil-
locks of great antiquity. The Mani
Parbat Hill is 65 ft. high and is
covered with broken bricks and blocks
of masonry. The bricks are 11 in. sq.
and 3 in. thick. At 46 ft. above the
ground, on the W. side, are the remains
of a curved wall faced with Kankar
blocks. To the S., at the distance of
500 ft., is the Kuver Parbat, 28 ft.
high. The history of these mounds is
obscure, and the traditions concerning
them are conflicting. Cunningham
supposes that the great monastery
described by Hiouen Thsang is the
Sugriv Parbat, which is 560 ft. long
by 300 ft. broad, and that the Maui
Parbat is the Stupa of Asoka, built on
the spot where Buddha preached the
law during his six years’ residence at
Saketa.
Near the Lakshman Chat is a large
modern temple, built by the Rajah of
Bhriya. 300 yds. from this is a hill

90 ft. high, with a small Jain temple
sacred to Adinath. At the Swarga
Dwara are the vast ruins of a mosque,
with an iron post 21 in. long and 6 in.
broad and two minarets 40 ft. high.
They are probably of the time of
Aurangzib.]
500 m. JAUNPUR. City sta. (R. ), D. B.
(There are 2 stations at Jaunpur—the
Civil Lines, or Zafarabad sta. is 4 m.
farther on.)
Jaunpur is a place of much interest,
and was the capital of an independent
Mohammedan kingdom (the Shargi
dynasty) from 1397 -1478, and retained
a partial independence until finally
conquered by Akbar. The first thing
to be seen is the famous Bridge1
over the Goomti, erected by Akbar.
It consists of 10 spans besides those
standing on the land; the middle
group of 4 being larger than the 3 at
each end. It was designed by ’Afzal
'Ali, a Kabuli architect at the expense
of Munim Khan, one of Akbar's high
officers. It is constructed principally
of stone, and was commenced in 1564
and completed in 1568. Formerly
there were shops on either side, but
these were destroyed during the flood
of 1774. It is said to have cost
£300,000. Approaching it from the
Civil Lines and what was formerly
the cantonments, the traveller passes
beneath the large gates of the Sarai,
on the first of which is recorded
the “Flood che " at this point in
1774 during the great inundation,
when most of the minor houses were
swept away. The water rose to a
height of 18 ft.
Some 200 yds. to the N. after crossing
the bridge, and not far from the Post
Ofiice and Town Hall, is the N. entrance
of the Atala Musjid, erected on the
site of an old Hindu temple dedicated
to the goddess Atala Deri, which was
destroyed in Sultan lbrahim’s reign
and the materials used up and converted
into a mosque. On the principal
1 Some of the piers and arches are inscribed,
and have been fully dealt with in a volume
published by Fiihrer and Smith of the Archaeol.
Survey of India, entitled the Shargi Architec-
ture of Jmmpiir (Triibner).


ROUTE 16.
JAUNPUR 243
Mihrab, built of black marble, immedi-
ately in the centre of the main W. wall
of the Musjid proper in which the
prayers are said, is a verse from the
Koran, and above it the creed. The
facade is 75 ft. high. Almost in the
centre of the large courtyard and to
the N.E. of the musallah or praying-
ground is a well with a fine citron-
leaved Indian fig-tree (Ficus ccnosa).
At the S.W. corner of the lar e square
is a chamber screened by a attice of
stone, intended for the women. Lead-
ing from it to the roof is a staircase.
Behind the propylon screening the
dome from the court ard and surround-
ing 3 sides of the rum of the dome,







condition, and were probably destroyed
by Sikandar Lodi. The N. and S.
entrance gates have been restored and
are surmounted by domes. In the
cloistcrs and walls many stones from
Hindu temples have been utilised.
Its general arrangement resembles that
of the Atala and the Lal Darwazah
Mosques (see below), and the facades
are not unlike, although the cloisters
here have 3 tiers, whilst those at the
Atala have only 2. The mosque proper
is very massive, almost fort-like in con-
struction. It measures 59 ft. x 235
ft., including the thickness of the
walls, but not the bastions at the angles.
It is divided into 5 compartments on






West half of Jumma. Musjid.
is a chamber some 11 ft. high and
6 ft. wide.
At the end of a narrow lane, raised
on a platform some 20 ft. in height
‘ is the splendid Jumma. Musjid, built
by Husain Shargi, commenced 1438,
finished 1478. Some attribute the
design to Ibrahim, as his family lie in
the cloistered court of a building
adjoining the N. side of the Musjid.
On entering the S. gate the visitor will
notice on one of the outer voussoirs
of the exterior arch an inscription
(upside down) in Sanscrit of the
8th cent., another in Tughra charac-
ters over the top of the central mihmb,
and a third in Arabic characters around
the outer margin of the arch. The N.,
S., and E. sides are in a dilapidated

the ground floor, and above are 2 zenana
chambers, one on each side of the grand
dome, with splendid stone carved ceil-
ings. On the E. side is an immense
propylon 80 ft. high divided by string
courses into 5 stories.
N. of the mosque is the burial
ground of the Shargi kings, the walls
of which approach the N. wall of the
mosque within 30 ft. In the quadrangle
is the tomb of Ghulam ’Ali with a
fine Persian inscription. In the centre,
beyond this tomb, is that of Sultan
Ibrahim Shah. The only inscription
is on a. round stone in the centre,
which has the Kalmiah.
Next to the tomb of Ibrahim is that
of his son Sultan Hashim Shah, with
an inscription of the date 1568.


244 ROUTE 16.
I who
SAHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
The Port of Feroz, known as the
Fort Musjid, and the earliest building
in Jaunpur of note, was built about
1360, and was almost entirely con-
structed from ruined temples. The
entrance gate, 47 ft. high, is covered
with kasluzm‘ halt, a sort of blue and
yellow enamelled bricks, of which beau-
tiful portions remain. The inner gate
has many stones of Hindu temples
built into the walls, on some of which
is carved a bell. At 200 ft. from this
gate is a low mosque, 130 x 22ft., divided
into 3 chambers by lateral walls, with a
reservoir in front, and a remarkable
Lat, or minar, apparently unaltered
since its erection and beautifully in-
scribed. The river-face of the Fort is
300 ft. beyond this pillar. It is 150‘ft.
in per endicular height, and commands
a nob e view of the country and city.
Before reaching it the visitor will see
a round tower called the magazine,
with a hammam, or bath, on the left.
At a market-place at the S. end of the
bridge is a stone lion somewhat larger
than life, which was found in the fort.
Under it is a young elephant, which
it is supposed to have seized. From
this all distances in the city and pro-
vince are calculated. The Church
(Holy Trinity) contains a tablet to
Manton Collingwood Ommaney, B.C.S.,
Judicial Commissioner of Oudh, who
rebuilt it in 1852, and died at Lucknow
during the siege. With him are buried
his two sons.
Besides the mosques already men-
tioned, there are six others : 1. Mosque
of Malik Khalis Mukhlis, built on the
site of the favourite temple of Vijaya
Chandra, which was broken down by
Malik Khalis and Malik Mukhlis, by
order of Sultan Ibrahim. They built
this mosque in the place of it. In one
of the pillars is a black stone, still
worshipped bytheHindus. 2.Chacha.k-
pur Mosque, called Jhanjhri Musjid,
on account of the “ screen-like "
appearance of its ornamentation, was
a temple built by Jai Chandra, and
converted by Ibrahim into a mosque.
3. To the W. of the city is the Lal
Darwazah Mosque, so called in memory
of the “high gate painted with ver-
milion " belonging to the palace
erected close by at the same time by
Bibi Raji, Queen of Sultan Muhammad,
son of Ibrahim. This is the smallest
of the Jaunpur mosques. The style
of architecture is the same as that
of the Jumma and Atala Musjids,
but the building throughout is on a
less massive and much lighter scale.
The date is uncertain, though prob-
ably the cloisters of the court were
erected about 1447. On the N., S.,
and E. sides of the court are massive
gate entrances. The cloisters are 2
bays deep, and the W. walls as well as
the cloisters are panelled. The columns
should be well studied on account of
their variety: they have once formed
part of Hindu fanes. Some are in-
scribed with valuable inscriptions.
The propylon, the principal feature
of the building, standing in the centre
of the W. facade is 48 ft. 6 in. high, and
is wider at the base than the top. The
towers contain staircases leading to a
mezzanine floor, on each side of the
dome. The principal mihrab is of black
stone. On the top of the architrave
is an Arabic inscription. 4. Mosque of
N awab Muhsin Khan. Sukh Mandi],
who was the Diwan of Khan Zaman
Khan, had built a pagoda where this
mosque stands, and when Khan Zaman
was killed the building came to Muhsin
Khan, who was one of Akbar's courtiers,
and he destroyed the pagoda, and built
a mosque. 5. The Mosque of Shah
Kabir, built by Baba Beg Jalagur,
governor of Jaunpur in Akbar’s reign,
in 1583, in honour of the saint Shah
Kabir. 6. The ’Idgah Mosque, built
by Sultan Husain, and repaired in
Akbar’s reign by Khan Khanan. It
then fell into a ruinous state, and was
deserted till restored by Mr. Welland.
504. Zamrabad sta., for the Civil
Lines of J aunpur.
536 m. Benares sta. (see Rte. 1).
546 m. Mogul Sarai junc. sta. with
the East Indian Railway (see Rte. 1).


ROUTE 16A.
245
BAREILLY JUNCTION '1‘0 RANIKHET
ROUTE 1 6A
Fnom BAREILLY JUNCTION BY THE
ROHILCUND KUMAON RAILWAY
r0 NAINI TAL, ALMORAH, AND
RANIKHET.
Bareilly (see Rte. 16).
12 m. Bhojeepura junc. From here
the line runs N. to
66 m. Kathgodam (R.) terminus
sta. it The journey from here to Naini
Tal takes 5 hrs.; the distance is 14 m.
The first 9 m. in tongas, the last 3 m.
in dandies or on ponies. From the rly.
sta. the country is flat for 2 m. as far
as Rambagh DE. The road then
ascends the valley of the Balaya, amidst
picturesque scenery, with waterfalls
flowing down deep ravines, to (11 in.)
the Brewery. Here are refreshment
rooms, and here a more circuitous
route from Rambagh falls in, and the
steep ascent of the ghat (3 m. to Naini
Tal) commences. On the way up
“Douglas Dale," a pleasant halting-
place, is passed.
N aini Tal, it D. B., is a favourite sani-
tarium of the N.W. Provinces, and the
summer residence of the Lieut.-Gover-
nor ; also a small military station. It
is extremely picturesque, and the lake
forms one of its most striking features ;
but for travellers with a limited time
at their disposal it does not possess the
attractions of Darjeeling or Simla.
The Lake is nearl 1 m. long, and
400 yds. broad, wit an area of 120
acres. The flood-level is 6410 ft. above
the sea. The depth ranges from 5
fathoms at the N. end to 155 in the
broadest part ; and there are Sulphur
Springs at the end near the Convales-
cent Depot. The total area of the
settlement is 6% sq. m.
The chief population is to the N.W.
of the lake, where are, close to the lake,
the Assembly Rooms with Library, and
the Masonic Hall, about 1:} m. from the
D.B. The Club about § In. farther,
the Post Ofiice lying on the way, and
some European shops. The Cricket,
Polo, and Lawn Tennis Grounds; the

Racquel-courl, Bathing Sheds, Billiard
Rooms, and Public Gardens are all near
the Assembly Rooms on the N.W.
There are numerous Educational In-
stitutions, including a Kindergarten,
and Lady Dufi'erin’s Hospital, opened
in 1890. The highest peaks are to the
N.W., as China, which is 8568 ft.
above sea-level, Deopathar, 7589 ft., etc.
The Church of St. John in the
Wilderness, 1 m. beyond the Club, is
built of stone. It has a roof of dark-
coloured wood, and has two stained-
glass windows. There is a handsome
brass under the window, on the N. side
of the communion-table, in memory of
Cuthbert Bensley Thornhill, C.S.I.
On 18th September 1880 a frightful
catastrophe occurred at Naini Tal.
On Thursday the 16th of September
rain fell in torrents, and continued to
fall during Fri. and Sat, when in the
24 hrs. 33 in. had fallen. The Victoria
Hotel, which stood about 280 yds. to
the N. of the N. corner of the lake, had
a lofty hill at its back. At 10 o’clock
on the morning of Saturday, the 18th,
a slight landslip occurred on the spur
of the hill, behind the hotel, crushing
in the outhouses and a portion of the
rear of the premises, and burying
several natives and one European child.
Assistant-Commissioner Mr. Leonard
Taylor, with some police and labourers,
came at once to render assistance, and
sent for the military, who hastened to
the spot under the command of Captain
Balderstone. The work of extricatin
the dead and wounded went on til
1.30 P. 1a., when in a moment the whole
precipitous cliff overhanging the spot
fell with a tremendous roar, burying
at once the hotel, the soldiers, the
assembly rooms, library, orderly room,
road, and garden. Almost every person
in the buildings and grounds was en-
tombed. The place shook as with an
earthquake, and the waters of the
lake were driven to the S. part of it in
an immense wave, while vast clouds
of dust rose from the falling masses
like volumes of smoke after a terrible
explosion.
There is a pretty ride on the W. side
of the lake, where the visitor may
ascend to a considerable height. B111


246 ROUTE 17.
India
LHAKSAR JUNCTION T0 HARDWAR, ETC.
the finest views will be obtained on
the E. side of the lake, such as from
Sher ke Danda, whence the snowy
mountains beyond Almorah and Rani-
khet may be seen. The visitor who is
vigorous and fond of sport will do well
to go to Ranikhet and Almorah for a
short tour by the bridle-paths as
below :—




Miles from
Nos. Names of Villages. Village to
Village.
1 From Naini Tal to
Khyrna D.B. . . 12
2 From Khyrna to Rani-
khet . . . . 18
3 From Ranikliet to
Maykhali . . . 8
4 Maykhali to Almorah . 16
5 From Almorah to Peora 9
6 From Peora to Ram arh 12
7 Fr'p‘ui Ramgarh to aini 18
a . .

Total distance from Naini Tal and
back to it, 88 m. There is a good cart-
road from Naini Tal to Ranikhet, about
60 m.
Almorah,* D.B., the chief town
of the district of that name, 5500 ft.
above sea-level, pop. 7500 ; 'a station
for 2 battalions of Gurkhas, is famed
as a residence for persons with weak
lungs. The views of the snows are
fine. In the neighbourhood are the
Julna and Binsur fruit orchards.
Almorah to Pindr'i Glacier, 6 marches ;
D.B. on the way, but no supplies or
attendance. Make arrangements with
Assistant Commissioner at Naini Tal or
Almorah. Best time of year Se tember
or October. Shooting plentiful:
Ranikhet, D.B., an important mili-
tary hill station. Pop. 6000. Elevation
between 6000 and 7000 ft. The views
of the Himalaya snows from this station
are very grand. This place is reached
by dandy or pony from Kathgodam
sta. either via. Naini Tal (Tonga Dak
to Brewery) or via Bhim Tal.
' sta. (po . 28,000).

ROUTE 17
LHAKSAR Juno. T0 HARDWAR,
Denna DUN, AND THE HILL-
s'rarrons or Mussoonnz, LAN-
nonn, AND CHAKRATA.
Lhaksar, on the Oudh and Rohilcund
railway.
[Branch line to 16 m. Hardwar *
The height above
sea-leve is 1024 ft. It is situated on
the right bank of the Ganges, at the
southern base of the Siwalik range, at
the mouth of a gorge through which
that great river enters the plains.
The Ganges here divides into several
channels, intercepted by large islands,
many of which are placed beyond the
reach of high-flood water. One of these
channels commences about 2;} m. above
Hardwar, and flows by it, and by
Mayapur and Kankhal, rejoining the
parent stream a little below the last
town.
It is from a spot on this bank
between Mayapur and Kankhal that
the head-waters of the great Ganges
Canal are taken. '
The town is of great antiquity, and
has borne many names. It was origin-
ally known as Kapila, or Gupila, from
the sage Gupila, who passed a long
period here in religious austerities, at
a spot still called Kapila Sthana.
In the 7th century A.D. the Chinese
pilgrim Hiouen Thsang visited a city
which he calls Mo-Yu-Lo, which
General Cunningham identifies with
Mayapur, a little S. of the modern
Hardwar.l
Hardwar was visited by Raper in
1808, who calls it a small place, “having
only one street about 15 ft. in breadth,
and a furlong and a half in length.
Most of the houses have the upper
part of brick and the lower part of
stone, which is of good quality."
The street is now fully 2 m. long.
The name of Hardwar, “ Door of Hari
or Vishnu,” is comparatively modern,
and probably does not date farther
back than 1400 A.D. The followers of
Shiva assert that the proper name is
1 For the ancient history of Hardwar see
Arch. Rep. vol. ii. p. 281.


mourn 17.
HARDWAR 247
Haradwara, “the Door of Shiva." It
was, however, the scene of sacred rites
long before the worship of Shiva
and Vishnu existed in their present
form. On the left is the Chandi Pahar,
on the top of which is a temple con-
nected with those in Hardwar.
The great object of attraction now is
the temple of Gungadwam (see below),
and the adjoining bathing ghat. This
ghat has its name from the Ohm-an, or
footprint of Vishnu or Hari, impressed
011 a stone let into the upper wall, which
is an object of great veneration at
the annual gathering. Each pilgrim
struggles to be first to plunge into the
pool after the propitious moment has
arrived, and stringent police regulations
are required to prevent the crowd from
trampling one another to death and
drowning each other in the sacred
water. In 1819, 430 persons lost their
lives in this manner; after which
accident Government built the present
enlarged ghat of 60 steps, 100 ft. wide.
The great assemblage of pilgrims takes
place on the 1st of Baisakh (March-
April), when the Hindu solar year
' begins, and the day on which the
Ganges is said to have first appeared.
The exact time for bathing is the
moment when the sun enters Aries.
But this day no longer corresponds
with the vernal solstice. The Hindu
calendar makes no allowance for the
precession of the equinoxes. Their
New Year’s Day has accordingly
gradually receded from the true period
until the difference is now as much as
twenty-one days, the great bathing day
having been for' many years past on the
11th of April. Theadvantages supposed
to be derived from bathing in the Can es
are the cleansing from all sins. T is
belief was as strong in 634 A.D. as it
is now. '
Every twelfth year the planet Jupiter
being in Aquarius, a. feast of peculiar
sanctity occurs, called a Kumbh-mela,
attended by enormous crowds. In
ordinary years the pilgrims amount to
100,000, and at the Kumbh-nwla, to
300,000. Riots and bloody fights used
to be common; in 1760, on the last
day of bathing (10th Acpril), the rival
mobs of the Gusain an Bairagi sects

had a battle, in which 18,000 are said
to have perished. In 1795 the Sikh
pilgrims slew 500 Gusains.
The Hardwar mela or fair is also im-
portant in a mercantile point of view,
being one of the principal horse fairs
in Upper India, where Government pur'
chases remounts for the cavalry.
Commodities of all kinds, Indian or
European, find a ready sale, and the
trade in food-grains is lucrative.
From Hardwar the pilgrims proceed
to visit the shrine of Kedarnath, a
name of Shiva; and that of Bhadri-
nath in Garhwal.
Within the limits of the old city
are the ruins of an old fort 750 ft.
square, attributed to Rajah Ben, and
several lofty mounds covered with
broken bricks, of which the largest and
most conspicuous is just above the
Canal bridge. There are also three old
temples, to Narayana-shila, to Maya-
devi, and to Bhairava. A great variety
of old coins are found here every year.
The Temple of Namyana-shila. is
made of bricks 9% in. square and 24} in.
thick, and is plastered on the outside.
The Temple of Maya-dent is built entirely
of stone, and General Cunningham
thinks it may be as old as the 10th or
11th century. The principal statue,
which is called Maya-devi, is a three-
headcd and four-armed female, in the act
of killing a prostrate figure ; in one hand
is a discus, in another what resembles
a human head, and in a third a trident.
General Cunningham points out that
this cannot be Maya, the mother of
Buddha, and thinks it may be Durga,
to whom Vishnu gave his discus, and
Shiva his trident. Close by is a squat-
ting figure with eight arms, which must
be Shiva, and outside the temple is the
bull Nandi. Outside the Temch of
Sarwamlh is a statue of Buddha under
the Bodhi tree accompanied by two
standing and two flying figures. On
the pedestal is a wheel with a lion on
either side.
Gangadwa'ra. is celebrated in the
Puranas as the scene of Daksha’s
sacrifice, to which he ne lected to in-
vite Shiva, the husband 0 his daughter
Sati. Sati attended the sacrifice in
spite of Shiva’s warning not to do so,


248 ROUTE 17.
India
LHAKSAR JUNCTION TO HARDWAR, ETC.
and was so shocked at her father’s
disrespect that she went to the bank
of the Ganges and by her own splen-
dour consumed her body. Enraged at
Sati’s death, Shiva produced Vira-
Bhadra, who cut off Daksha’s head
and threw it in the fire. Shiva restored
Daksha to life, but as his head had
been consumed, replaced it with that of
a goat or ram. The spot where Daksha
is supposed to have prepared his sacri-
fice is now marked by the Temple of
Daksheshwam, a form of Shiva. It is
at the S. end of Kankhal, 2§ m. below
the bathing ghat. Around the temple
are several smaller ones, of no interest]
Returning to Lhaksar, the line con-
tinues N.W. to
11 m. Roorkee sta., DB.
33 m. Saharanpore sta. * (Rte. 11A)
(R.) There is a good carriage road
from here to Deh'ra Dun (43 m.); 6 m.
farther at Rajpore, at: at the foot of the
hills, the carria e must be abandoned
for jhampan, andy, or pony. An
ascent of about 4 m. brings the traveller
to Mnssoorie.
There are D.Bs. at the following places
en route: 15 m. Futtehpore ; 28 m.
Mohun; 35 m. Assaroree ; 42 m. Dehra
Dun ; 48 m. Rajpore. The journey
fl‘Olllll Saharanpore to Mussoorie occupies
13 rs.
Dehra Dun (or Doon)* is the capital
of the Debra Dun district. Dehra
itself (19,000 inhab.) is prettin situated
in the midst of a mountain valley, 2300
ft. above sea-level. It was founded by
Guru Ram Rai, who settled in the Dun
at the end of the 17th century. His
temple, in the style of the mausoleum
of the Emperor Jahangir at Shah
Dora, forms the chief ornament of the
town. To the W. is the cantonment.
There are an English church, a mission
of the American Presbyterian Church,
and various chapels.
In the earliest ages of Hindu legend
Dchra Dun formed part of a region
known as Kedarkhand, the abode of
Shiva, from whom also the Siwalik
Hills are called. Here Rama and his
brother are said to have done penance

for killing Ravana, and here the five
Pandus stopped on their way to the
snowy range where they immolated
themselves. Authentic history knows
nothing of Dehra till the 17th cen-
tury. Ram Rai, who was driven from
the Panjab and the Guruship on account
of doubts as to his legitimacy, founded
Dehra. In 1757 Najibu Daulah,
Governor of Saharanpore, occu ied the
Dun, but he died in 1770, w en the
country was swept b various invaders.
Last of all came t e Gurkhas, with
whom the British went to war in
November 1814. At the end of 1815
the Gurkhas ceded the country to the
British, who had easily occupied
Dehra, and taken the strong hill
fortress of Kalanga after a allant
defence, in which Sir Rolo Gil espie,
a gallant soldier who suppressed the
mutiny at Vellore, was killed. There
is a monument to the slain a short
distance from Debra. Those of the
garrison who survived entered the
service of Ranjit, and. died to a man
in battle with the Afghans. It is prob-
able that the inhabitants have treblcd
since the introduction of British rule.
The climate of Debra is excellent.
The approach to Mussoorie from Debra
is by Rajpore 1k (6 111.), a large native
village, and at an elevation of about
3000 ft. The road from Rajpore to
Mussoorie is very steep.
About half -way up is Jarapan'i,
a halting-place where there is water
and a bazaar; and here, at an eleva-
tion of 5000 ft., are the first houses of
the European residents.‘
4 m. Mussooriepk a hill station,
and Landom", the adjacent Convalescent
Depot for British troops, are situated
upon one of the outer ranges of the
Himalayas, which lie to the N. of Dehra
Dun. The hill on which Mussoorie is
built rises from the lains in the form of
a horse shoe, gradua ly ascending to the
centre, and enclosing in the hollow a.
number of ridges which lose themselves
in the mass above. Ridges also run
down from the back of a hill to a
valley in which flows a tributary of
the Jumna; between the ridges N.


ROUTE 18.
249
DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
and S. are deep wooded gorges. The
greater number of the houses are built
at an elevation of from 6000 to 7200
ft., mainly on the S. side of the hill.
The view from Mussoorie over the
valley of the Dun and across the Siwalik
Hills to the plains is very beautiful, as
also is the view towards the N., which
is bounded by the peaks of the snowy
range. The hills, on the side nearest
the plains exposed to the prevailing
winds are nearly bare, and the visitor
misses the pine and deodar forests
which form so beautiful a feature at
Simla and other Himalayan stations.
To the N., however, not far below
the ridge, trees are plentiful. They
are principally oak, rhododendron, and
fir. In sheltered places apricots,
apples, pears, and cherries flourish,
together with many English annual
and perennial plants. The climate is
delightful. Towards the end of Novem-
ber snow falls, and from time to time
during the succeeding three months.
Landom'lt: is a little to the S.E. of
Mussoorie, connected with it by a
narrow spur from 20 to 30 yds. in
breadth, with a sheer precipice of from
80 to 100 ft. on either side. It is 200
yds. long, and rises rather abruptly to
the Landour hill, the highest point of
which is about 900 ft. above the average
of the Mussoorie ridge.
The houses and barracks at Landour
are built upon the ascending slope of
the spur, and upon the precipitous
slopes of the ridge. The barracks face
the S. The very limited area of Lan-
dour is no small disadvantage.
Slight attacks of fever occur both at
Mussoorie and Landour, but very
serious cases of jungle fever happen to
Europeans who venture on shooting
expeditions into the valleys. There
is a permanent Anglo-Indian popu—
lation at Landour and Mussoorie,
and a large influx of visitors during
the hot season. English and Roman
Catholic churches exist at both places,
with numerous schools and boarding-
houses, and at Mussoorie a public
library, masonic lodge, club, brewery,
and three banks.
There is a good road (16 marches, 48
m.) N.W. to Simla via Chakrata.

The accommodation on the way is
scant. Tents, food, and servants
should be taken. The places on the
road are as follows :—
15 m. Lakwar, DB.
11 m. Nainghat, DB.
21 in. Chakrata, D.B., a military
hill-station 7000 ft. above the sea in
the centre of the district of Dhera
Dun called Jaunsar Bawar. It is 77
m. from Saharanpore, with which it
is connected by a cart-road. This
station was founded in May 1866.
There are lines for a European regiment,
and a native town has gathered round
the cantonment. There is nothing to
be seen at Mussoorie, Landour, and
Chakrata but the scenery, which is very
beautiful. Large game shooting can
be had by those who can climb.
15 m. Kanipani, Forest Bungalow.
21 m. Mai'luiroit, water and good
camping-ground; 9 m. Mundal, D.B. ;
12 In. Peontrce, water and few supplies;
10 m. Ohepal, water and few supplies.
Cross Pationalla mt. (9368 ft.), 23 m.
Synj, water and supplies; 8 m. chu,
D.B.; 12 m. Simla (see Rte. 11).
ROUTE 18
DELHI T0 TUNDLA Juno. FOR AGRA,
CAWNPORE, AND ALLAHABAD, BY
THE EAST INDIAN RAILWAY.
From Delhi 12 n1. Ghaaiabad junc.
sta. From here the North-Western
Railway runs N. to Meerut, Umballa,
and Peshawar (see Rte. 11A).
78 m. ALIGARB junc. sta. (R.), D.B.,
between the civil sta. and the city.


250 ROUTE 18.
India
DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
line from here runs N .E. to the Oudh
and Rohilcund main line.
Aliga'rh, “the high fort," is the name
of the considerable fortress which ad-
joins and protects the town of Kol or
Koil situated in the well-cultivated
plain between the J umna and Ganges.
This town (60,400 inhab.) is of un-
doubtedly great antiquity, and Bud-
dhist remains have been found in
excavating the eminence on which
the citadel of Koil stood. Authentic
history commences with the Moham-
medan historians. Hasan Nizami
writes that in 1194 Kutbu-din marched
from Delhi to Koil, “ which is one of
the most celebrated fortresses of Hind.”
In 1252 A.D. Ghiyasu-din Balban was
governor of Koil. He set up a great
minaret, which was inscribed with the
name which he had before he ascended
the throne—“Bahau-din Shamsi," and
dated 1254 A.D. In 1862 this pillar,
by an extraordinary act of vandalism,
was pulled down.
Ibn Batuta mentions Koil in his
account of his embassy from Delhi to
China, 1342 A.D. He calls it a fine
town surrounded by mango groves. In
the 15th century Koil became the scene
of many a battle between the armies
of Jaunpur and Delhi. An inscription
in the fort of Koil records its construc-
tion during the reign of Ibrahim Lodi
1524 an. In 1759 AJ). the Afghans,
under Ahmad Shah, expelled the Jats
from Koil. About 1776 A.D. Najaf
Khan repaired the fort of Ramgarh,
and changed its name to Aligarh.
About 1785 Maharajah Sindia captured
Aligarh, in which he found treasure in
specie and jewels amounting to a kror
of rs. In 1788 Aligarh was taken by
Ghulam Kadir Khan, and retaken by
Sindia, and here, with the aid of De
Boigne, that prince organised those
battalions after the European fashion
which did such good service on many
a hard-fought field. In 1796 De Boigne
was succeeded by Perron.
In 1803 the British declared war
against Sindia, Perron took refuge with
the British, and Aligarh was stormed
and taken after a stout resistance.
When the news of the mutiny at
Meerut arrived, on the 12th of May,

Aligarh was garrisoned by 300 Sepo s
of the 9th N.I., who mutinied on the
19th. On the 28th Lieut. Greathed
reached Aligarh, with 40 volunteer
horsemen, and information being re-
ceived that Rao Bhupal Sing, a Chauhan,
had proclaimed a Rajput government
at Khair, 14 In. W. of Aligarh, the
volunteers went there, and Mr. Watson,
with a few of them, rode straight
through the town to the Tahsildar’s
office, captured Bhupal Sing and 16 of
his followers, and hanged him on the
spot. Up to the 21st of June the
volunteers held their ground at
Aligarh, but the Lieut.-Governor of
Agra then recalled most of them.
The remaining few moved to Mandrak
7 m. from Aligarh, on the Agra Road,
and occupied the deserted factory there.
On the 2d of July the volunteers were
surrounded, but mounted and charged
and dispersed the mob. They were,
however, soon after obliged to retire to
Agra. On the 5th of October Colonel
Greathed’s column occupied Koil.
At the 3d milestone S. of Aligarh on
the Agra Road is a Ficus religiosa of
enormous girth, and 100 yds. from it
on the left of the road is a garden, in
which a body of Ghazis concealed them-
selves during the rebellion, and rushed
out on a detachment of our troops,
inflicting much loss before they were
despatched. A few yds. beyond the
milestone stands a Maltese cross.
The Civil Station is admirably kept
and well planted with fine trees. On
one side of a large central space are
private residences and the Post Oflice,
and on the other, the Public Offices, Law
Courts, Zil’a School, the cemetery, and
the Aligarh Institute, founded in 1864
by the well-known SaiyadAhmad Khan,
K.O.S.I., LL. D. The Library contains
more than 2000 volumes, and the
reading-room is furnished with the
leading English and vernacular papers.
The Institute has a printing press and
a newspaper of its own, called the Ali-
ga'rh Institute Gazette. The Lyall
Library was founded by the Hindus of
Aligarh, and is built in the modern
Saracenic style. The old cemetery of
1802 lies towards the Fort.


ROUTE 18.
antenna 251
' The object of chief interest at Aligarh
is the Anglo-Oriental College (about
1 in. from the rly. sta.), for the educa-
tion of Mohammedans of the upper
class. It owes its foundation to the
patriotism and energy of Sir Saiyad
Ahmad Khan, already mentioned, who
personally superintended its construc-
tion and organisation. The building
is on the plan of an Oxford or Cambridge
college, and is surrounded by grounds
coveringabouthOacres. It was opened
in 1875, and has since made rapid pro-
gress. It consists of 2 departments, 8.
college and a school ; and its inmates,
some 200 boys and 80 young men, come
from all parts of India. The subjects
taught are English, Sanscrit, Arabic,
Persian, history, and mathematics.
The Principal and 2 Professors are Eng-
lish university men, and the Headmaster
of the school is also an Englishman.
It is governed by a body of Moham-
medan trustees, and is in no way con-
nected with the state ; and unlike the
Government colleges, which are unsec-
tarian, here the Mohammedan religion
is taught. Considerable prominence
is given to the encouragement of manly
sports; and altogether the institution
marks a new departure in the methods
of Indian education.
The Fort of Aliga'rh, 2 m. N. of the
town of Koil, originally built in 1524,
was reconstructed by French engineers
in the 18th century. It is surrounded
by a ditch 18 ft. deep and from 80 ft.
to 100 ft. wide. The Fort is an oblong
in plan, with an inside area of about
20 acres. At the N.W. angle there
are bomb-proof magazines. There is
no garrison. The main entrance to the
Fort is on the N. There were barracks
in the Fort, but they have been pulled
down. Perron’s house is Q m. to the S.
of the Fort.
Between the College and the Fort is
the House or Tower of Perron, a French
officer in the service of Sindia 1796-
1803. It has a square gateway in front,
with an arched entrance and a guard-
room above it. In the garden is a
well with a Persian inscription.
The Jail is 1 m. S. of Perron's house.
Outside the S. angle is a monument to
the memory of officers who fell in the

assault of Aligarh and in the Battle of
Laswari in 1803.
In the City of Koil (pop. 62,000), at
the top of a long and rather steep slope,
is the principal mosque, with three
central domes, two side domes, and
four minarets. It was built by Sabit
Khan in 1728 during the reign of Mn-
hammad Shah. The architecture is in
the debased style of the last century,
yet the mosque is by no means without
beauty and even dignity. The emin-
ence on which it stands is called the
Bala Kilah, and in it have been dis-
covered remains of Buddhist and Hindu
temples, some of which have been
placed in the compound of the Insti-
tute. The domes are of brick, the rest
of the building is of blocked kanka'r
and red sandstone, and the pinnacles
are gilt. The mosque is not in good
repair.
S.E. of the great mosque is the Moti
Musjz'd, or “Pearl Mosque." In the
city is a fine tank surrounded by small
Hindu temples and shrouded by magni-
ficent trees swarming with monkeys.
There are nearly 100 Imambarahs in
the town. The tomb of Gisu Khan is
the most beautiful. It is an open-
pillared chattri, and is close to the
'Idgah. About } m., W. of the chief
mosque, is a curious group of tombs.
The central one is called the Shrine of
Shah Jamal, who is said to have lived
before Koil was taken by ’Alau-din
Ghori.
On the occasion of the Aligarh
annual Fair (held early in Feb.) a
small temporary town is constructed
of bamboo, and surrounded by hundreds
of tents. Shopkeepcrs bring the best
Indian art ware and fabrics from all
parts of the country for sale and ex-
hibition. A horse fair is held at the
same time, and an exhibition of agri-
cultural implements and produce.
There are also horse-races, wrestling-
matches, and other entertainments, in
which the English residents as well as
the natives take part. The occasion
offers an unrivalled 0 portunity for
witnessing the inner li e of an Indian
district.
97 m. Hathras junc. sta. The East


252 ROUTE 18.
India
DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
Indian Railway is here crossed by the
Cawnpore-Achnera line of the Bombay,
Baroda, and Central India Railway.
From this junction Muttra and Bin-
draban (Rte. 10) may easily be visited.
The thriving town of Hathras is 6
m. from the sta. It ossesses a large
tank and a municipal uilding for the
benefit of Officers on tour.
127 m. Tundlajunc.(R.) Aline from
here runs W. into Agra (Rte. 9), dis-
tant 15 m.
184 m. Etawah sta.:tr (R.) (i m. N.
Of the town), properly Itawah, from Int,
“a brick" (35,000 inhab.), has been the
headquarters of the district Of the same
name since 1856, before which Patiala
and Sirhpura held the place succes-
sively. It is said to have been founded
about five centuries ago by Sangram
Sing, a Chauhan chief, descended from
the famous Prithi Raj, King of
Delhi.
The Oily stands picturesquely
amongst a network of ravines on the
N. bank of the Jumna, at a point
where it bends sharply backwards on its
own course, and between the river and
the rly. It is divided into two parts,
a ravine from N. W. to S.E. separating
the old city on the S. from the new.
The roads from Mainpuri unite outside
the new city to the N.W. and form
the Bazaar, which in the centre is
cut at right angles by the main road
from Farrukhabad to Gwalior that
traverses Etawah from N.E. to S.W.
In the centre of the city is Hume Guni,
a public square where the corn and
cotton-markets are held ; and adjoining
it is a Sarai with a fine gateway. Half
a mile of broken country extends
between the city and the river to the
S. On the \V. is a barren plain with
wildly rugged ravines, and 5 m. to the
N. lies the Civil Station, with church,
public garden, racket court, etc.; it is
well planted with trees, and there is a
belt of dark woods on the N. and E.
sides. In a grove to the W. is the
Asthala, an important Hindu temple of
the last century.
The Jumma lilasjfl, on high ground
to the rt. of the Gwalior Road going

towards the Jumna, is an old Buddhist
temple, altered by the Mohammedans
about 1430 A.D. According to Mr.
Hume, it dates from the 5th century
AJ). (see As. Soc. Journ. vol. xxxv.)
The screen, 47 ft. high, before the dome
is similar to that of the Atala and
J umma Musjids of J aunpur. The facade
is 130 ft. long, but only 20 ft. deep.
The main portion is of block kanka'r,
with fra ments of blue-stone in the
walls, an with portions of ten granite
columns. There are also plain pillars
of light and red sandstone ; some have
been cut in two, and used for various
purposes.
1 m. from the mosque the ruins of
the Fort, built by Samarsi about 1120
A.D., stand on an eminence about 100
ft. above the river. A comparatively
modern and plain building—the Barah-
dari—crowns the hill, and commands
a fine view over the Jumna to the S.
The S. face of the fort is the most per-
fect, with a bastion 33 ft. high, and
another 24% ft. The Dutch traveller
Johannes de La'et, in 1631, says: “ It
is surrounded by a double wall. 011
its gate a human face is sculptured,
which the Indians regard with awe,
and worship it by anointing it profusely
with oil.” The remains of the gate
are still to be seen on the side Of the
hill. The well in it is 120 ft. deep.
The fort was destroyed by order of
Shuja’u Daulah.
The Bathing Ghats on the Jumna
just below the fort and alon the banks
are picturesque and wort a visit.
From them will be seen the conspicuous
white spire of a modern Jain temple.
271 In. CAWNPORB (Kanhpur) junc.
start The junction Of four railways
—East Indian; Cawnpore Achnera;
Cawnpore Lucknow; Indian Midland.
Comfortable and convenient waiting-
rooms, and carriages easily Obtained.
The City (pop. 182,000) is situated
on the right bank Of the Ganges ; Old
Cawnpore is 2 m. to the N.W. of the
present city. The name means City
Of Kanh or Krishna; Kanh meaning
“husband.” It is a great emporium
for harness, shoes, and other leather-
work. The sole interest attaching to


ROUTE 18.
CAWNPORE 253
the place arises from the frightful
massacres of the Mutiny.
Tun Murnw.1
The cantonment at the time of the
Mutiny straggled for 6 or 7 m., and
though containing an unusually large
non-combatant population, was impru-
dently garrisoned with about 3000
Indian soldiers and only 60 Europeans.
The Nana Sahib, the adopted son of
Baji Rao Peshwa, whose claims to sue-
ceed to the large pension enjoyed by
the ex-Peshwa had been ignored by the
British Government, was living near
at Bithur, on friendly terms with the
English at Cawnpore.
Sir Hugh Wheeler, a gallant veteran,
the general commanding the division
in the spring of 1857, doubting the
fidelity of the Sepoys, resolved to store
with provisions one spot which should
be a rallying point for those under his
charge. The natural position to select
was the magazine in the N.W. corner
of the military lines, which rested on
the river, and was surrounded by
strong walls. But Wheeler decided
against it, as he would have to with-
draw the Sepoy guard, and feared that
by showing his mistrust he would
hasten the rising. The spot he chose
was the centre of a plain where there
were two barracks. Here he raised
some earthworks about 4 ft. high, the
ground being so hard that it was almost
impossible to dig it, and so friable, that
when dug, it would not cohere. He
applied to Sir H. Lawrence for rein-
forcements, which were generously sent
under Lieut. Ashe, and with Captain
Fletcher Hayes, military secretary, a
man of rare courage and capacity.
Wheeler, much against advice, asked
Nana to lend abody of his own retainers
for the defence of the Treasury and the
Magazine. The same day (22d May) all
the non-combatants betook themselves
to the miserable entrenchment, which
the worst rider on the worst horse could
have jumped over. Then took place
such a frightful scene of confusion,
1 For a graphic account of the siege of
Cawnpore, the traveller cannot do better than
udy T. R. E. Holmes’s History of the Indian
uliny, Allen and Co.

fright, and bad management, that
Hayes wrote to the Secretary to Govern-
ment that he had never seen the like.
On the night of the 4th of June the
2d Cavalry rose and galloped off to
Nawabganj, where the treasure was.
The 1st Regiment N.I. followed them,
and burned and plundered as they
went. They sacked the Treasury,
threw open the Jail, burned the Public
Offices and the Records, and captured
the Magazine with all its ammunition
and arti lery, with which they prepared
to march to Delhi. The 53d and 56th
eventually joined them, all but 80 men,
who remained faithful to the end of their
lives. The whole body of mutineers
then started on the march to Delhi,
but were persuaded by Nana’s emissary
to return, and on 6th June Wheeler
was warned by the Nana to expect an
attack ; and by noon the siege of
Cawnpore had begun.
Never had a besieged garrison been
called upon to do greater things than
this little body of about 300 English
soldiers, hampered by every disadvan-
tage and exposed to the continuous fire
of 3000 trained soldiers, well fed,
lodged, and armed. The total number
in the entrenchment is estimated at
1000, and there were heroes among
them who rivalled or even outdid all
that had been done by Englishmen
before. To Captain -Moore of the 32d
has by common consent been assigned
the first place in these ranks. There
was only one well within the entrench-
ment, reached by passing over the most
exposed portion of the position. Before
long revisions were scarce, and the
barrac s containing stores and surgical
instruments caught fire on 13th June.
From the first day the casualties were
considerable and at dead of night the
bodies were carried to a well outside
the enclosure and let down. Over 250
were disposed of in this way in three
weeks.
On the 23d of June the enemy made
a general attack, but were repulsed at
all points. On the 25th a slip of paper
was brought by a woman into the
entrenchments offering a safe passage to
Allahabad to all not “connected with
the acts of Lord Dalhousie." On the


254 ROUTE 18.
India
DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
26th there was an armistice, and it was
proposed that the British should sur-
render their fortified position, their
guns, and treasure, and should march
out with their arms, and 60 rounds of
ammunition for each man. The Nana
would give them safe conduct to the
river-side, and supply boats to take
them down the Ganges. This was
agreed to, and next morning, 27th
June, those who had survived marched
down to the Sati Chaura Ghat, and got
into the boats. It was 9 A.M. before
the whole were embarked, and then a
bugle sounded, the native boatmen
clambered out of the boats, and a
murderous fire of grape shot and
musketry opened upon the wretched
passengers, who had thus been brought
to the shambles. The thatch of the
boats took fire, and the sick and
wounded were burned, while the Sepoys
jumped into the water and butchered
the rest. Orders then came from the
Nana to kill no more women, and
about 125 women, wounded and half-
drowned, were then carried back to
Cawnpore.
One boat drifted down the river.
Those on board propelled it as they
could, but their numbers were rapidly
diminished by the fire from the banks.
For 36 hours they floated down stream
pursued and attacked by the enemy on
all sides. On the second morning they
woke to find themselves in a side stream
with Sepoys on the banks ready to over~
whelm them. The 11 soldiers who
alone remained gallantly leapt ashore
under 2 ofiicers and dispersed the
astounded crowd. But the boat had
drifted down stream out of sight and
was lost to them. Four of these men—
Mowbray Thomson, Delafosse, Privates
Murphy and Sullivan—being strong
swimmers, reached the Oudh shore, and
alone lived to tell the story of Cawn-
pore. The boat was subsequently over-
taken by the enemy and 80 people were
brought back. The men were then by
order of the Nana all shot, and the
women and children sent to the Savada
to join the 125 whom for his own pur-
poses Nana had rescued at the Massacre
Ghat. They were afterwards removed
to a small house called Bibi-garb,

where, between the 7th and 14th of
July, 28 died.
But retribution was at hand. On
the 7th of July Gen. Havelock
marched from Allahabad with 1000
British soldiers, 130 Sikhs, 6 guns, and
18 volunteer troopers. On the 12th of
July at 7 A.M. they halted at Belindah,
4 m. from Fatehpur. Here they were
attacked by the Nana’s army, but it
sufi‘ercdacrushingdcfeat, and F atehpur,
where great atrocities had been com~
mitted by the rebels, was sacked by
Havelock's men. On the 15th of July
Havelock again defeated the rebels and
drove them over the bridge across the
Pandunadi. The Nana was living
riotously in a palace over the prison,
and learning that Havelock was ad-
vancing upon him, issued an order to
massacre the women and children in
the Bibi-garh. The few men among
the prisoners were brought out and
killed in his presence. A party of
Sepoys were then ordered to shoot the
women, but they intentionally missed
their aim. Then a party of butchers
were sent in with swords and long
knives. Soon the shrieks ceased, but
groans continued all through the night.
In the morning the dead and d ing,
and a few children almost un urt,
were pitched into an adjoining well.
The Nana then went out to oppose
Havelock with 5000 men and a formid-
able train of artillery, but the battle
(16th of July) ended in the confused
flight of the rebels. On the 17th
Havelock marched on to occu y the
cantonment, but ere he reached) it he
learned the mournful story of the
massacres.
Four months later Cawnpore was
the scene, once more, of bloody engage-
ments. Sir Colin Cam bell marched
thence on the 9th of ovember 1857
to relieve Lucknow, leaving behind him
for the protection of Cawnpore, his base
of operations, 450 European infantry,
47 men of the Naval Brigade, and 20
gunners, who with a few Sikhs manned
a battery of four guns, commanded by;
Major‘Gen. Windham. On the 27t
of November Sir Colin marched back
to Cawnpore, having with him 2000
women, children, sick, and wounded,


ROUTE 18. SIGHTS OF CAWNPORE
255
and the treasure which had been rescued
from Lucknow. On nearing the Bridge
of Boats, on the 28th, Sir Colin saw a
confiagration, which proved that the
enemy had taken the city of Cawnpore.
Tantia Topi, at the head of the
Gwalior insurgents, about 15,000 men,
had marched on Cawnpore, and by
well-concerted movements, completed
on the 19th of November, had cut off
Cawnpore from all communication with
the W. and N.W., from which its sup-
plies had been obtained.1 On the 26th
Windham engaged Tantia Topi’s ad-
vanced column of 3000 men and 6
heavy guns. A fierce battle ensued,
and Windham’s forces were eventually
driven from their positions, and thence
almost to the Ganges. It was a decided
defeat, and the enemy took possession
of the town, and committed it to the
flames, and the town of Cawnpore, the
theatre, the clothing, and stores pre-
pared for the refugees from Lucknow
fell into the hands of the rebels. Soon
after sunset Sir Colin arrived. Having
despatched his convoy of ladies and
wounded to Allahabad, Sir Colin on
December 6th took the initiative. His
arrangements for the battle were most
skilful and completely successful; the
Gwalior camp, with all its stores and
magazines, was taken, and the enemy
routed with great slaughter.

Srenrs or CAWNPORE.
On the way from the rly. sta. to
the Memorial Church an enclosure is
passed containing some interesting
monuments and heart-rending inscrip-
tions.
The Memorial Church is built in the
Romanesque style, it cost over £20,000,
and was consecrated in 1875. It adjoins
the site of General Wheeler’s entrench-
ment, and contains a series of inscrip-
tions to those who fell near here in the
Mutiny. The best view of Cawnpore
is obtained from the belfry. To the
S.W. is seen among the trees the Savada
Kothi, where the fugitives from Fateh-
garh were killed by the Nana’s order.
To the W. is the Railway Station ; to
1 For graphic accounts of this period see
How I won the Victoria Cross.—Kavanagh.

the N. of it the Government Steam
Flour Mills; N. of these, again, is the
city, marked bynumerous white pagodas
and minarets in this direction ; and
N.W. of the church is Christchurch,
the church of the Civil Lines; due N.
is the Memorial School, not far from the
bank of the Ganges ; and in the same
direction, but nearer, is the Methodist
Church. N. E., about 250 yds. from
the Memorial Church, is the old church,
a small ugly building, and S. E. of it are
the Artillery Lines; the N. I. Lines are
due S. of the church. Outside the
Church is a railed memorial slab with
an inscription commemorating “those
who were the first to meet their death,”
June 1857. A few yards from the porch
of the Church is another enclosure with
a cross marking where
“Lie the remains 01’
MAJOR EDWARD VIBART,
2d Regt. Light Cavalry,
And about 70 officers and soldiers,
Who, after escaping from the
Massacre at Cawn pore,
On the 27th of June 1857,
Were captured by the rebels at Shivrajpur,
And murdered on the 1st of J uly."
Beyond this, on the S. of the Church,
is the site of the Entrenchmnt where
Wheeler with his small band of soldiers
and the European and Eurasian resi-
dents for 21 days were exposed to the
cruel fire of Nana’s troops. It is a mere
bare field, and within the enclosure is the
well where so many women and children
were shot whilst getting water. A few
yards N. stood two barracks; one of
them was the hospital of Wheeler’s
force, and both were exposed to a merci-
less fire from all sides.
The Massacre Ghat is about %m. N.
by E. of the church. A grassy road
between banks 10 ft. or 12 ft. high
lined with trees, among which the
murderers concealed themselves, leads
down to the river. On the bank is a
temple to Shiva, of hexagonal shape,
old and going to ruin. Steps lead
from this temple to an enclosed flight
of steps, which in the cold season
descend to the water, but in the rains
are covered almost to the top. 1 m.
up the stream is the fine bridge of the
Oudh and Rohilcund Railway. Close
to this was the pontoon, or Boat


256 ROUTE 19.
India
CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI
Bridge, over which the convoy, 3 m.
long, of women and wounded, brought
from Lucknow by Sir Colin, passed,
and here Windham had a small en-
trenched camp on the Cawnpore side,
into which, as has been previously
narrated, he was driven after three
days’ fighting with the rebels, from the
26th to the 29th of November 1857.
Christchurch, close to the Bank of
Bengal, is the Civil Station church, and
has no pretensions to architectural
beauty. It contains tablets to persons
killed in the Mutiny.
The Memorial IV ell and Gardens are
about a furlong to the E. of Christ-
church. They extend over 30 acres,
prettily laid out, and over the fatal
well a mound has been raised, which
slopes upwards until it is crowned by
a handsome octagonal Gothic screen
designed by the late Sir Henry Yule,
R.E., C.B. In the centre of the en-
closure, on the actual well, containing
the bodies of some 200 victims, is the
figure of the Angel of the Remarrectz'on
in white marble, by Marochetti, with
arms crossed on her breast, as if resigned
to the Almighty Will, eachhand holding
a palm, the emblem of peace. Over
the arch is inscribed, “ These are they
which came out of great tribulation.”
Around the wall which marks the
circle of the well is: “Sacred to the
perpetual Memory of a great company of
Christian people, chiefly Women and
Children, who near this spot were cruelly
murdered by the followers of the rebel
Nana Dhundu Paul, of Btlhnr, and
cast, the dying with the dead, into the
well below, on the moth day of Julr,
MDCCCLVII.” Close to the monu-
ment is a small enclosed cemetery, filled
with bright flowers and shrubs. Two
of the tombs are to the memory of the
women and children of the 1st Com-
pany, 6th Battery, Bengal Artillery,
and those of H.M.’s 32d Regiment, who
were slaughtered near this spot, 18th
of July 1857.

The Ganges Canal, which commences
at Hardwar, terminates at Cawnpore.
390 n1. Allahabad junc. sta. (see
Rte. 1).

ROUTE 19
CALCUTTA BY THE EAST INDIAN
RAILWAY LOOP LINE T0 AerGANJ,
MURSHEDABAD, AND BERHAMPUR,
AND TO MALDAII, GAUR, AND
PANDUAII, REJOINING THE MAIN
LINE AT Lucxnasanar.
From the Howrah sta. Calcutta it is
75 m. to Khana junc. (see Rte. 1).
Here the loop line branches off N. to
145 m. Nalhati junc. sta.
[Here it is necessary to change again,
leaving the loop line and branching E.
along the Nalhati State Rly. to
27 m. Azimganj, on the rt. bank
of the Bhagirathi river, opposite Mur-
shedabad. This is a clean, well-kept
town, inhabited by Jain merchants,
who came originally from Ajmere 200
years ago, and have built several hand-
some temples. The Bhagirathi is here
700 ft. broad, and rises in the rains 25
ft., when the current runs 7 m. an hour.
To reach Murshedabad it is necessary
to cross this river by a ferry. On the
farther (B) side there is a metalled
road which passes through straggling
bazaars, and past some fine houses
belonging to the leading Kyans, for 5
m. to
Murshedabad on the 1. bank of the
Bhagirathi, chief city of the district
of the same name, an uninteresting
place of about 39,000 inhab. It is the
residence of the Nawab of Bengal, and
is called after the great Nawab Murshed
Kuli Khan, though originally the name
was Maksudabad. It was a prosperous
place in the last century, and owed much
of its wealth to its being upon the line
of trade from the interior of Asia to
the European settlements 011 the
Hooghly.
Though the population is decreasing,
a good many wealthy Jain merchants
may yet be found here, who deal in
carvedivory—a speciality of the place, —
embroideries, musical instruments, etc.
The Raft Festival is still celebrated
here, in honour of Khwaja Khizr (the
prophet Elias). On certain nights


ROUTE 19. MURSHEDABAD
257
during the rainy season thousands of
little rafts, each bearing one or two
sweetmeats and each carrying a lighted
lamp, are set afloat down the stream.
At the same time there is a great dis-
play of fireworks from a huge raft
bearing a mock fortress upon it.
Numerous brick buildings stand
along the banks of the river, some with
gardens, and all in a dense jungle of
bamboos and other trees, which com-
pletely hide the dwellings below when
seen from the roof of the palace,—the
best place for a view in the neighbour-
hood.
The chief object of interest is the
Palace of the Nawab, which with the
surrounding buildings enclosed by a
wall goes by the name of the Nizamat
Kila. It is situated on the river-bank,
about the centre of the town, and is in
the Italian style, somewhat resembling
Government House at Calcutta, and was
built in 1837 at a cost of £167,000.
The architect was General Macleod of
the Beng. Eng. It faces N., and is 80
ft. high. In the entrance room is a
picture of the Nawab Nazim and
General Macleod. There is a circular
Darbar-room, and a Banqueting-room
290 ft. long, with a picture of the burial
of Sir John Moore, by Marshall, at the
W. end. The Armoury is quite worthy
of a visit, and the jewels are remarkably
fine. In the Library are some very
rare MSS. Altogether the palace is a
fine modern building, and there are
good views from it over the river and
surroundings.
The Zenana is to rt. of the main
entrance at the back of the palace.
In the same enclosure with the
palace is the Imamba'rah or house of
prayer, built 1847.
Just outside the city S. E. is the
Kuttara (or Kntra) containing the
Tomb of Murshid Kuli Khan. It was
constructed on the model of the Great
Mosque at Mecca, has 2 minarets 70
ft. high, but is now in ruins.
Near this, and 60 yds. from the road,
is the Great Gun, the sister gun to that
at Dacca. It is 17% ft. long, with a
girth of 5 ft. at the breach. The calibre
is 6 in. This cannon, which had been
left lying on the ground for many years,
[India]

has been lifted up 5 ft. in the air by a
vast tree which has grown up from a
seedling beneath it. The inscription
is in Persian, with the date 1637.
S.W. of it and 2 m. S. of the city
is
The Motijhtl, or Pearl Lake, a beauti-
ful spot ; but hardly a relic remains of
its former splendour, when it was sur-
rounded by palaces. It contains a good
many alligators.
The Khush Bagh, “Garden of
Happiness," the old cemetery of the
Nawabs, is opposite to the Motijhil on
the rt. bank of the river. It consists
of 3 walled enclosures. The entrance to
the outer one, planted with flowers
and shady trees, is from the E., close
to where some ruined ghats stretch
down to the deserted bed of the Bhagi-
rathi, which now flows in another
channel. In the central enclosure are
the tombs of the good Nawab Ali Vardi
Khan and his grandson Siraju Daulah.
They are almost level with the ground,
and are covered with chadars of gold
embroidery. The third enclosure con-
tains a tank and Muzafi'ar Khana. The
Reshan Bagh is also a cemetery and
well-shaded garden.
The Nizamat College is exclusively
for relatives of the Nawab.
The Cemetery of J ’afar Gunj, about
1 m. to the N. of the palace of Mursheda—
bad, is that of the Nawabs Nazini
appointed by the English ; it differs in
some respects from all others of the
kind in India. 0 posite the gate, and
on the farther si( e of the road, is a
handsome mosque. The person in
charge of the cemetery, which covers
several acres, has a plan which shows
all the tombs. These are very well
kept, and almost every inch of ground
is occupied. The farthest tomb at the
E. end is that of Gauharu-nisa Begam,
who was the daughter of N asiru'l mulk.
There are seventy-seven Karis or Scrip-
ture-readers at this cemetery, who read
the Koran in three portions, so that
every third day the whole Koran is
read, through.
Murshedabad district is noted for its
silk industry. The _villagers rear the
silkworm at home, and sell the cocoons
to the spinners, who export it. Silk-
S


258 ROUTE 19.
I ndia
CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI
cloth and handkerchiefs are woven
here on hand-looms.
The principal Indigo Factories in the
district are at Akraganj, Patkaburi, and
Dumkol.
There is still Pig-sticking to be had
in the district.
The Nawab’s Stables for elephants
and horses are on the road to Berham-
pur, 5 m. below Murshedabad on the
1. bank of the river.
At 3 m. S. of Murshedabad, 1. of the
road, is a magnificent avenue of deodar
trees, extending from 2 to 3 m. This
avenue leads to Maidapur, the 01d
civil station, now abandoned.
Berhampur, D.B., is a town of
23,000 inhabitants, and is the civil
headquarters of the district. After
the battle of Plassey, as the factory-
house at Kasim Bazar, where Warren
Hastings rested, had been destroyed by
Siraju Daulah, Berhampur was chosen
as a healthy site for
The Barracks, which cost £302,270
to build. The cantonments of Berham-
pur will always be notorious as the
scene of the first overt act of mutiny
in 1857.1 On the 25th of February the
19th Regt. N. I. refused to receive
their ammunition, for which they were
marched down to Barrackpur and dis-
banded. The great square formed by
the barracks is called Cantonment
Square or Barrack Square.
The New Cemetery is i m. to the
N.E. Here are said to be interred
(see Stat. Ace. of Beng. vol. ix. p. 77),
George Thomas, the famous Irish ad-
venturer, who made for himself a
principality in Rajputana, which he
failed to keep; Creighton, the ex-
plorer of Gaur, and the hero of Mrs.
Sherwood’s well-known tale Little
Henry and his Bearer.
There is an old English Cemetery at
Kasz'm Bazar, about 3 m. to the NAN.
of Barrack Square. In it are the tombs
of Warren Hastings’s first wife ((1.
1759) and daughter.
The Dutch Cemetery, which is s m. to
the \V. of the English, contains 43
tombs, of which only four are in-
scribed.
1 See Kaye's Sepoy War.
Plassey, called from Palas, the Butea.
frondosa tree, is 25 m. by road S. of
Kasim Bazar. It is a had read, and
three relays of ponies are required to
make the journey. Clive's position is
marked by a mound close to the river,
011 which he placed his guns, and by a
simple monument raised by the Bengal
Government. It appears from old
maps that at the time of the battle the
Bhagirathi flowed more to the W.,
where, in fact, an old channel can be
clearly traced]
The traveller must return through
Murshedabad to Nalhati in order to
rejoin the rly. and continue along the
loop line to
195 m. Tin Pahar junc. sta.
[A branch line runs N.E. (7 m.) to
202 m. Rajmahal sta., a sub-dis-
trict of the Santal Parganahs. The
town stands on the W. or right bank
of the Ganges. This place was once
the capital of Bengal, and has many
historical associations. The traveller
will here have an opportunity of seeing
the remarkable tribe of Santals.
Rajmahal up to 1592 A.D. was known
as Agmahal, but when Rajah Man Sing,
Akbar’s famous Rajput general, re-
turned from the conquest of Orissa in
1592 A.D., he made it the seat of his
government, and changed its name to
Rajmahal. He also began to build a
palace and a Hindu temple, but the
report having spread that he was build-
ing an idolatrous temple, to avoid the
wrath of Akbar he turned it into a
mosque, and changed the name of the
town to Akbar-nagar. In 1607 Islam
Khan transferred the seat of govern-
ment to Dacca, but it was again brought
to Rajmahal by Sultan Shuja in 1639.
In the beginning of the next century
Murshed Kuli Khan transferred the
government to Murshedabad, and Raj-
mahal fell into decay. In 1863 the
Ganges abandoned its channel and
Raj mahal was left 3 m. distant from the
main stream, only to be approached by
steamers during the rains. This much
accelerated the decay of the place.

On the opposite side of the road from


ROUTE 19.
259
ENGLISH BAZAR—GAUR
the station are the Collector’s Office and
other public buildings. Not far from
the rly. sta. are remains of a building
called the Sangi Dalan, “hall of stone.”
It is 100 ft. long from N. to S., and
has three doors of black basalt in the
centre. This is said to have been part
Of the palace of Sultan Shuja, son of
J ehangir, and Governor of Behar.
The Maina Tank is § In. due W. Of
the Cutcherry. At its S. end is a
massive brick building, with an Arabic
inscription in the Tughra character;
and 100 yds. t0 the S. is the Maina
Mosque.
The Hadaf is 4 m. to the N.W.
The road leads through a forest of tall
trees, with ruined buildings at inter—
vals. At 11} m. it passes a solid brick
building on the right hand, called the
Taksal, or Mint, with walls 5% ft.
thick. The Hadaf ruins are about 200
yds. Off the road to the left through a
thick low jungle. The entrance is by
the E. gateway, which is much injured.
The traveller then finds himself in a
quadrangle. The mosque proper has
a facade 200 ft. long. with seven arches,
each 22 ft. high. In the centre of the
quadrangle is a reservoir, with steps
down to the water. The whole is now
much ruined and covered with jungle.
The distance from Rajmahal to
English Bazarptr the headquarters of
the Maldah district, is 24 in. There is
a steam ferry across the Ganges at
Rajmahal.
English Bazar (12,500 inhab.) is
situated on the rt. bank of the Mahan-
anda about 4 m. below Old Maldah,
from which the district takes its
name. The place is not frequented
by travellers, and arrangements for the
journey should be made by writing to
the magistrate at Maldah a week before-
hand. The distance from English
Bazar to Gaur is about 8 m. as the
crow flies, and to the Adina Mosque at
Pandnah, 12 m.
Old Maldah is at the confluence of
the Kalindri with the Mahananda. It
is an admirable position for river-traffic,
and probably rose to prosperity as the
port of the Mohammedan capital of
Panduah. During the last century it

was the seat of thriving cotton and
silk manufactures, and the French and
Dutch had factories at it. The English
factory, established in 1656, how-
ever, was always at English Bazar,
lower down the Mahananda, and on
the opposite bank of the river. The
pop. is 4700. The Golden Mosque at
Old Maldah is scarcely worth a visit.
The ruins of Gaur and Panduah, suc-
cessive capitals of Bengal, are interest-
ing only to the antiquarian. The sites
of these old cities are being ra idly
turned under the plough, and the dense
jungles which 30 years ago sheltered
tigers and leopards no longer exist.
Gaur was the metropolis of Bengal
under its Hindu kings. Its most
ancient name was Lakhnauti, a cor-
ruption of Lakshmanawati. But the
name of Gaur also is of primeval an-
tiquity, as is found in the Guariya
Brahmana. Its known histo begins
with its conquest in 1204 A.D. by the
Mohammedans, who made it the chief
centre of their power in Bengal for
more than three centuries. When the
Afghan kings Of Bengal became inde-
pendent, they made Pandnah their
capital, and for building purposes they
robbed Gear of all the material that
could be removed. This accounts for
the number of sculptured Hindu stones
amongst the ruins of Panduah. When
Panduah was in its turn deserted, Gaur
again became the capital, and was called
Jannatabad, “terrestrial paradise,”
which name occurs in theAin-i-Akbari.
Daud Khan was the last of the Afghan
kings, and his state was absorbed into
Akbar‘s empire in 1573 A.D.
The dimensions Of the city proper,
within the great continuous embank-
ment, are 7% m. from N. to S., and 1
to 2 m. broad. The W. side was washed
by the Ganges, which flowed where the
channel of the Little Bhagirathi now
is. The E. side was protected by the
Mahananda and by swamps. On the
S. the Mahananda joined the Ganges,
and left little space for an enemy to
encamp. On the N. a fortification 6
m. long extends in an irregular curve
1 Blochmann says 1198 14.12.; Mr. Thomas
1202 ; Major Baverty, 1194.
/


260 ROUTE 19.
I ndia.
CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI
from the old channel of the Bhagirathi
at Sonatala to near the Mahananda
and Bholahat. This rampart is 100
ft. wide at base. At the N.E. part of
the curve is a gate, protected by a
strong outwork in the form of a quad-
rant, through which a high embanked
road passes N. and S. In this outwork
is the tomb of a Mohammedan saint.
Near the N.E. corner, at the confluence
of the Kalindri and the Mahananda,
are the ruins of a mimr. N. of the
rampart are the remains of the palace of
Balal Sen, an early Hindu king.
Behind the rampart lay the N.
suburb of the city, in which is the most
celebrated piece of artificial water in
Bengal, the Saugar Digi, 1600 yds.-
long by 800 broad.’ It dates from 1126
an. The water is still pure and sweet.
On the bank is the tomb of Makhdum
Shaik Akhi Siraju-din and a small
mosque. Both buildings are endowed
and kept in fair repair. W. of this
suburb is a ghat called S'adu’llahpur
leading down to the sacred river ; and
S. of it lie the ruins of the city, defended
by a strong rampart and ditch. To-
wards the Mahananda the rampart is
double, and in most parts there have
been two immense ditches, and in places
three.
To the S., on the Bhagirathi, was
the Citadel, 1 m. long rom N. to
S., and from 600 to 800 yds. broad.
The brick wall has been very strong,
with many flanking angles, and round
bastions at the corners. Outside the
N. entrance have been several fine
gates or triumphal arches. In the
S.E. corner of the citadel was the
palace, surrounded by a brick wall
66 ft. high, and 8 ft. thick, with an
ornamented cornice,—hence called the
“Boris Gaji” wall. A little N. of
the palace are remains of the royal
tombs, where Husain Shah and other
kings were buried. In the citadel are
two mosques; thensmaller one, called
the Kadam Rasul, built by Husain
Shah, is kept in good repair by an
endowment. Mr. Fergusson says of its
style : “It is neither like that of Delhi
nor that of Jaunpur, nor any other
style, but one purely local, and not
without considerable merit in itself;

its principal characteristic being
heavy, short pillars of stone support-
ing pointed arches, and vaults in brick.
The solidity of the supports goes far to
redeem the inherent weakness of brick
architecture. It also presents, though
in a very subdued form, the curved
linear form of the roof, which is so
characteristic of the style. The
Kadam Rasul was built by Nusrat
Shah, in 937 A.H.=1530 an”, Just
outside the E. wall of the citadel is a
lofty brick tower, known as Pir ’Asa
Miner, which had a chamber with four
windows at the top, to which access
was gained by a winding stair. Dr.
Hunter says : “ One of the most inter-
esting of the antiquities of the place is
a minar. For two-thirds of the height
it is a polygon of twelve sides; above
that circular until it attains the height
of 84 ft. The door is at some distance
from the present level of the ground;
and altogether it looks more like an
Irish round tower thanaminar.” There
is or was an inscription on this monu-
ment, which ascribed its erection to
Feroz Shah.
The finest ruin in Gaur is that of the
Golden Mosque or Bar-ah Darwazah.
It is close to the N.E. corner of the
citadel. It measures 180 ft. from N.
to S., 60 ft. from E. to W., and is 20
ft. high. The entrance is by an arched
gateway of stone 26 ft. in height,
and 6 ft. in breadth. The mosque
in plan is oblong, and originally con-
sisted of four separate colonnades,
arched and roofed over, and covered
by handsome domes, in all 44 in
number. Six minarets or columns of
brown stone faced with black marble
adorn the buildin ; bands of blue
marble about 12 in. in breadth embrace
the column from the base to the capital,
and are adorned with a profusion of
flower-work carved in marble. The
domes are built of brick. The whole
appearance of this building is strikingly
grand, exhibiting the taste and muniti-
cence of the prince who erected it. The
corridor is so lar e that one can ride
through it on an e cphant, and so enter
the Dakhil or “ Salami Gate,” the N.
entrance to the fort. This beautiful
gate is built of small red bricks, and


262 ROUTE 20.
I ndt'a
CALCUTTA TO DARJEELING
262 m. Luckeeserai junc. sta. (see
Rte. 1).
ROUTE 20
Frrosr CALCUTTA BY EASTERN BENGAL
RAILWAY T0 DARJEELING
The traveller leaves Calcutta (end of
Rte. 1) by the Sealdah station.
45 m. Ranaghat junc. sta., D.B.
[Branch line E. for Bongong and
Khoolna.]
103 m. Poradaha junc. sta. [Branch
line E. for Goalundo Ghat (50 m.) on
the Ganges, Rte. 2013.]
120 m. Damookdea sta., on the right
bank of the Ganges. Here a steam
ferry is in readiness to take passengers
across the river to Sara Ghat. The
distance from the station to the steamer
varies from time to time, as all the
rivers in this part of India have a
tendency to change their course. The
variations in the bed of the Ganges at
various places connected with this
railway, by necessitating changes of
railway stations, and the removal of
lines of rail, have caused great em-
barrassment. Sir William Hunter says:
“Fluvial changes on so great a scale
had been encountered at the river-
crossing, where the Northern Bengal
Railway begins and the Eastern Bengal
Railway ends, that no costly or
permanent terminus has yet been
attempted. ”
The distance from the right bank
sta. to Sara Ghat sta., on the left bank,
is about 13 m. , of which a considerable
distance is on temporary mils laid on
the sand in the dry season, The
actual crossing by ferry steamer 00cm
pies about twenty minutes. Meals are
\Wble 011 bmn‘d- At Sara Ghat

the Northern Bengal Railway com-
mences ; it is metre gauge.
At 24 m. from Sara Ghat is Nattore
sta. (R.), D.B.1 ‘
111 m. Parbatiptu' junc. sta. (R.),
from whence the line towards Assam
runs E. through Rungpore.
173 m. Jalpaig'uri sta. (R.), D. B. A
town with a pop. of 8000. Formerly
a military cantonment, but now a civil
station ; chief place of a district of the
same name.
196 m. Silligiu'i sta. (R.), DE. The
N. terminus of the Northern Bengal
Railway.
From this place to Darjeeling the
journey is made by the Himalayan
Railway on a gauge of 2 ft. The
distance is 50 m., and the time occupied
eight hours.
The line is constructed in the most
substantial manner, with heavy steel
rails (40 lbs. to the yd.) The loco-
motives, specially designed by Messrs.
Sharpe and Stewart of Manchester,
weigh 10 tons. The speed of the trains,
both up and down, is not allowed
to exceed 7 m. an hour, although on
special occasions 16 111. has been easily
attained. By the present speed
travellers ascend over 1000 ft. an hour.
It is worthy of note that this is the
first work of the kind for which the
capital required has been raised entirely
in India.
It is essential to make this journey
by daylight. Travellers are strongly
advised to have extra warm clothing at
hand, also a warm wrapper for the feet,
as the transition of temperature from
the plains to the mountains is very
great. They should provide themselves
with veils, as the dust and blacks from
the engine fly into their faces. Those
who sit on the front seats of the open
carriages are especially inconvenienced.
At Sookna sta., 7 m. from Silliguri,
the cars bcgin to ascend. The turns
1 A bell will be rung at Nattore to arouse
passengers by down mail to be repared to
alight and cross by ferry at Sara hat.


ROUTE 20.
263
TEENDARIA—KURSEONG—DARJEELING
are very sharp, and at each a fresh
landscape of surpassing beauty is
opened out. The sides of the mountain
are clothed with lofty trees and masses
of jungle, with graceful tree<ferns in
the gullies at the higher altitudes. At
about 15 In. the cars pass round a spur
which projects from the mountain, and
the line runs on the edge of a precipice
of 1000 ft. Breakfast can be taken at
191; m. Teendaria (R.)
At 30 m. Kurseong sta. *(R.), D.B.,
there are tea-gardens, with European
managers and medical men residing on
them. Kurseong is 5000 ft. above sea-
level. Those who stray off the main
paths in damp weather must take pre-
cautions against the leeches, which are
numerous. There are no tigers, but
panthers sometimes carry off cattle.
50 in. Darjeeling sta. :0: The beauty
of its situation, upon a narrow ridge
high (6000 ft.) above the bed of the
Great Ranjit River, the mountain-
side scattered over with villas and
bungalows, and the colossal background
of Himalayan giants towering above
it: these, together with its moderate
temperature, which neither exceeds 80°
in summer nor falls below 30° in winter,
tend to make Darjeeling a most agree-
able residence, and have rendered it the
most important sanitarium of Bengal.
The District of Darjeeling (pop.
over 155,000) is divided into two per-
' tions: the N. is from 4000 to 9000 ft.
above the sea-level ; the S., or Morang,
consists of the spurs of the first range
of the Himalayas and the plains thence
to-the Zil'a of Rungpore. Mountains
which rise to between 12,000 and 13,000
ft. divide it from Nipal. When Dr.
Campbell took charge in 1839, there
were only 20 families in the whole
district: he remained superintendent
for 22 years, built the bazaar, the cut-
chcrry, and church, made roads, and
established a convalescent depot at
Jelapahar, the Military Cantonment
S. of Darjeeling. ‘
The Town. On the Mall is the band-
stand and a drinking fountain erected
to the memory of Ashley Eden. The

old Secretariat is a. fine large bungalow
on a wide plateau, which looks more
secure from a landslip than any other
house about.
Above the Secretariat is St. Andrew’s
Church; the foundation-stone of which
was laid by Bishop Milman in 1870.
The old church dates from 1843.
There are tablets in it to George W.
Aylmer Lloyd, C.B., Lieut.-Gen. H.M.'s
Bengal Army, who died at Darjeeling
1865, aged 76. To his personal influ-
ence with the Rajah of Sikkim, Bengal
is indebted for the sanitarium of Dar-
jeeling.
Another tablet is——-
In Memoriam
CHARLOTTE, COUNTESS CANNING,
November 1862.
There is also a Union Chapel, in Auck-
land Road. About ‘k m. beyond the
church is The Shrilbbery, the large and
comfortable residence of the Lieut.-
Governor of Bengal, who spends May
and June, September and October here.
The Eden Sanitarium or Convalescent
Hospital is a most conspicuous build-
ing: it is in the charge of the Clewer
Sisters.
The principal Bazaar is in the centre
of the town, and is well worth a visit.
On Sundays the bazaars are so thronged
that it is difficult to make way through
them. There will be seen numbers of
picturesque natives from all parts—
Lepchas, Limbus, Bhutias, Thibetans,
Nipalese, and Paharis mixed up with
the Indian servants of European gentle-
men and Hindus as well as Kabulis,
Cashmeries, and Parsi shopkeepers.
There is an interesting Buddhist
temple of a distinctly Thibetan type in
the picturesque village of Bhutia Busti,
1 m. from Darjeeling. It is worthy of
a viit not only on account of the
temple, but also to see the hill-people
who inhabit the small village.
The Botanical Gardens at Rungarun
contain an interesting collection 'of
trees and plants peculiar to the
Himalayas.
From Darjeeling the highest Moun-
tain Peaks in the world can be seen:
of these the loftiest is Mount Everest,
29,002 ft., visible from Tiger Hill (a 6
m. ride from Darjeeling) or from Jela-


264 ROUTE 20.
I ndia
CALCUTTA TO DARJEELING
pahar, the military cantonment, though
the distance is at least 120 m. The
other peaks visible from Darjeeling or
Jelapahar are: Kinchinjanga, 28,156
ft. high, 45 in. distant; Janu, 25,304
ft. ; Kabru, 24,015 ft. ; Chumalari,
23,943 ft., 84 n1. distant; Pauhanri,
23,186 ft. ; Donkia, 23,176 ft., 73 In.
distant; Baudim, 22,017 ft.; Narsingh,
19,146 ft., 32 in. distant ; Black Rock,
17,572 ft. ; and Ohomunko, 17,325 ft.
Consequently the great attraction of
Darjeeling is its unrivalled Scenery,
which is unspeakably grand and im-
possible to paint in words; but there
are many views, and particularly that of
Kinchinjanga, which impress the mind
more and more every time that they are
seen. Too often, unfortunately, clouds
veil the highest peaks for days together,
but at times these roll away, and dis-
play the bare granite summits. One
looks over the lofty hills and across a
vast chasm to the line of perpetual
snow, about 17,000 ft. high, on the
side of the stupendous Kinchinjanga.
Above that rises a glittering white
wall, and then it seems as if the sky
were rent and the view is closed by
enormous masses of bare rock. There
is one special feature in the summit of
Kinchinjanga, and that is a lofty wall
of granite of prodigious breadth, which
appears to divide the summit into two
portions.
The effect is much more grand than
if it were one great mass of snow. The
extraordinary grandeur of this scene is
heightened by the colouring given to
it by the rising and setting sun, or by
the moon.
The chief industry of Darjeeling is
the cultivation and manufacture of Tea.
The date of its commencement is 1856,
when the first tea'gardeu was opened.
There are now nearly 200 covering an
area of some 50,000 acres, and the out-
put in 1882-3, a particularly favourable
year, was over 8,000,000 lbs.
There is not much game to be had
in the immediate neighbourhood of
Darjeeling, but to the able pedestrian,
the botanist, the lover of the pictur-
esque, there are endless
Excursions to be made on foot.
(1.) A good rider, or strong Alpine

climber, may make an interesting ex-
pedition of 4 days by Tonglu to Phallut,
in the heart of the snows. The dis-
tances are to
Tonglu (10,070 ft.) 23 m.; thence to
Sundukpho (11,975 ft.), 15 m. (passing
Kala Pokri (10,130 ft.)) ; thence to
Phallut (11,811 ft), 13 m. (passing
Suburkim (11,684 ft.)). The views
are magnificent. There is a good D. B.
at each of the above stations. Pro-
visions and bedding must be taken.
(2.) Another very favourite and in-
teresting excursion is to the Cane
Bridge over the Great Ranjtt River,
6000 ft. below. An excellent road has
been made, by which the whole descent
can be easily performed on ponies, the
distance by the road being 11 m. The
zones of vegetation are clearly marked,
first by the oak, chestnut, and mag-
nolia, which grow from 10,000 ft. to
7000 ft. ; secondly, below 6500 ft. by
the Alsaphila gigantea or tree-fern (to
be seen from the Himalayas to the
Malayan Peninsula, Java, and in Cey-
lon) ; thirdly, by the Calamus and
Plectocomia palms (6500 ft. is the
upper limit of palms in Sikkim);
fourthly, by the wild plantain, which
in lower elevations is replaced by a
larger kind. At 1000 ft. below Darjeel-
ingisafine wooded spur called Libong,
where English fruit trees flourish, and
the tea-plant also succeeds admirably.
Below is the village of Ging, surrounded
by steeps cultivated principally with
tea, also with rice, maize, and millet.
At 10 in. distance from Darjeeling
is the junction of the Ranjit with the
Rangmo. The Ranjit’s foaming stream
runs through a dense forest. From the
opposite direction the Rangmo comes
tearing down from the top of Senchal,
7000 ft. above. Its roar is heard and
its course is visible, but its channel is
so deep that the stream itself is no-
where seen. Cane bridges are made by
stretching two parallel canes across the
stream; from them hang others in
loops, and along the loops are laid one
or two bamboo stems for flooring.
Cross pieces, below this flooring, hang
from the two upper canes, and serve
to keep them apart. The traveller
grasps one of the canes in either hand


ROUTE 20A.
265
CALCUTTA T0 DIBRUGARH
and walks along the loose bamboos laid
on the swinging loops, the rattling of
which is not calculated to inspire con-
fidence. Even with bare feet it is
often difficult to walk, there being fre-
quently but one bamboo for the feet,
and if the fastening is loose it tilts up,
leaving the traveller suspended over the
torrent by the slender canes ; yet here
a Lepcha, carrying 140 lbs. on his back,
crosses without hesitation, slowly but
steadily and with perfect confidence.
Farther down is the junction of the
Ranjit with the Teesta, which is sea-
green and muddy, while the Great
ltanjit is dark green and very clear.
The Teesta. is much the broader,
deeper, and more rapid. This expedi-
tion will take two days.
If time permits, it is well worth
following down the Teesta valley to
Sillig'uri (see above) instead of return-
ing by train from Darjeeling.
(3.) Senchal, 8610 ft., is clearly seen
from J elapahar, and is about 6 111. off.
It used to be a depot for European
troops. The water for Darjeeling is
taken in pipes from the Senchal springs.
An expedition may be made to it, start-
ing early in the morning. It is com-
paratively easy of access, and from J ela-
pahar the path along the ridge of the
mountains may be seen. This path
abounds in rare and beautiful plants,
and traverses In ifieent forests of
oak, m nolia, an rhododendron.
Oaksfiaurels, maples, birch, chestnut,
hydrangea, a species of fig, and three
Chinese and Japanese kinds, are the
principal trees; the common bushes
eing Aucuba, Skimmia, and the
curious Helwingia, with little clusters
of flowers on the centre of the leaf,
like Butcher's Broom. In spring im-
mense broad-leaved arums sprin u ,
with green or purple-striped 00 s
that end in tail-like threads, 18 in.
long, which lie along the ground ; and
there are various kinds of Convallaria,
Paris, Be onia, and other beautiful
flowering erbs. Nearly thirty ferns
may be gathered on t is excursion,
including many of great beauty and
rarity, but the tree-fern does not ascend
so high. Grasses are very rare in
these woods, except the dwarf bamboo,

now cultivated in the open air in
England. -
ROUTE 20A
THE Assam VALLEY AND BRAHMA-
PUTRA—CALCUTTA r0 DIBRU-
cann BY GAUKATI (for SHILLONG).
* The Assam Valley
A traveller wishing to visit the As-
sam valley, if unencumbered with heavy
luggage and not averse to many changes
of conveyance, will find the mail route
the most expeditious. Whether coming
from Calcutta or Darjeeling, he leaves
the main line of the Eastern Bengal
Railway at Parbatipur junc. sta. (see
Rte. 20) and proceeds along the branch
line E. to
23 m. Rungpore sta., DB.
33 m. Kaunia sta., D.B., on the banks
of the Teesta river. Here there is a
wide ferry to
Teesta, D. B., on the E. bank of the
river (a line branches N. to Magalhat
in 2 hr.) The Eastern Bengal Rly.
(northern section) continues E. by tram-
ways, with changes at river-crossings
according to the season of the year, to
Kurigm'm, on the Dharla river, and to
Jatrapur, on the banks of the
Brahmaputra river. Here the River
Steam Navigation Co.’s well-appointed
steamers1 are in readiness to take pas-
1 These steamers, or others in connection
with them, start daily every morning from
the terminus of the E. Bengal Rly. at Goa-
lundo Ghat (see Rte. 201;) for Dhubri, where
passengers change on to the mail steamer.
This route into Assam (though many hours
longer) is preferred by some to that via Bung-
pore and Kaunia, as it avoids the crossing of
the two great rivers, the Teesta and the
Dharla, and the consequent changing and re-
changing from trains to ferry-boats.


266 ROUTE 20A.
I mit
GALC UTTA TO DIBRUGARH
sengers and mails on board. These
steamers touch at the civil station of
Dhubri, >61 D.B., on the right bank of
the Brahmaputra river, in lat. 26° 2’ N.,
and long. 90° 2’ E., at the point where
the great river leaves the Assam valley
and turns S. towards the Bay of Bengal.
The steamer reaches Goalpam about
noon the day after leaving Dhubri, and
Gauhatt' the following night. The
traveller can proceed the next day to
Tezpo're, the day after to Nigriting for
Manipm', and about 24 hrs. later he
will reach Dibmgarh, the present limit
to the navigation.
The Brahmaputm River
The time occupied in a journey up
the Assam valley is so considerable,
that travellers are not recommended
to undertake it if they have no interest
in the Province or no friend to visit.
If they do ascend the river, they must
remember that the cold wind caused
by the movement of the vessel is most
penetrating, and warm clothes are
absolutely necessary. The scenery,
however, in many places is striking:
on the rt. (1. bank) are the Garo Hills,
and away on the l. the grand range of
the Himalayas, and the wooded Bhutan
Hills in the middle distance: the snowy
range is kept in sight all the way up
the river, and is seen to special advan-
tage at sunrise. At Goalpaxa, D.B.,
situated at the foot of a conical hill (1.
bank), may be seen picturesque native
merchants and wild hill tribesmen, who
come down from the mountains to trade
in skins, etc. Near the little station of
Gauhati, it: D. B. (1. bank), the scenery is
beautiful. The river there assumes the
appearance of an extensive lake with
mountainous and wooded shores, but
except at Goalpara, Gauhati, and two
or three other places there are no per-
manent buildings on the banks or any-
where in sight. On the sandbanks
alligators are to be seen basking in the
sun. Close to Gauhati is Peacock Island
in the middle of the river with a temple
upon it, and at a short distance from
the station there is another tern le at
the top of a hill, a preached by 'ghts
of steep steps which wind round to the

summit. There is a railway in contem-
plation from Gauhati N.E. to Golaghat
and S.W. to Nigriting, Calcutta, and
Chittagong.
[There is a very good road 63 m. from
Gauhati S. to
Shillong, 19K D.B. , the headquarters of
the Assam Government, and a military
cantonment. The road-side vegetation
in itself makes this journey a pleasure.
There is a daily tonga-pon -service in
8 hr. t0 Shillong, but if t e traveller
desires to be independent, he should
engage a tonga beforehand by address-
ing the manager of tonga service at
Gauhati. There are small D.Bs. at
Barni Hat, 16 m., at Naya Bungalow,
45 m., and Borpani, 54 m. ; and at the
half-way house, Nangpoh, there is a
very comfortable bungalow, with ser-
vants and all necessaries. After the
last bungalow at Borpani the ascent
becomes nearly continuous, and the
pine forests (Pinus Kasya) give the
landscape a European appearance.
Height of Shillong is 4900 ft. above
sea-level. Average rainfall 87 '44 in.
The temperature seldom reaches 80°
F. There is an almost total absence
of mist, the great drawback of Indian
hill-stations. These circumstances make
Shillong one of the most desirable hill
residences in India.]
About 75 m.above Gauhati is Tezpore
(rt. bank), D.B., and about the same
distance farther is Nigriting (1. bank).
[Here passengers for (210%; in.) Maui-
pur leave the steamer. There is a good
read to (17 m.) Golaghat, thence to
Samaguling in 67 m., good road, ex-
cept during the rains, through dense
jungle. 34 m. farther is Kohima,
tolerable road but hilly, and 92§ m.
beyond, through hilly but well culti-
vated country, is Manipur, the scene
of the lamentable disaster in 1891,
when Mr. Grimston the Resident, Mr.
Quinton the Commissioner, with several
British officers and their men, were
treacherously massacred by the natives.
Manipur can also be approached from
Cachar (Silchar) (see Rte. 2011).]
At Dibrugarh, D.B. (about 70 n1. N.E.
of Nigriting), there are thousands of
acres under tea-cultivation, traversed by
a railroad which runs through the dis-


268 ROUTE 203.
India
CALGUTTA TO DACCA AND SYLHET VALLEY
The city looks well from the river,
having many fine modern buildings
facing the stream. First there is the
House of a rich Hindu Seth, then comes
what was the House of Zamindar W yse,
an Englishman who acquired a large
fortune, and possessed extraordinary
influence; not far off is the Palace of
the Numb, whose family is one of
the most distinguished in Bengal, and
celebrated for their charitable acts.
Beyond the palace is the Mitford
Hospital, a fine building.
The two principal streets of the city
cross each other at right angles. One
extends from the Lal Bagh palace to
the Dolai creek, and is over 2 m. long.
It runs parallel to the river, and has
branch streets leading to the landing-
places. The other leads to the canton-
ment N. of the town, and is 11 m.
long. At the junction of the streets is
a square, with a garden in the centre.
The Chu/rch is 100 yds. S. of the Com-
missioner’s house.
At § In. from the church is the well-
kept Cemetery. It contains a small
tank, and some fine trees. In the centre
is a handsome stone gateway, which
marks the limit of the old cemetery.
The older tombs are within this gate-
way. There is a finely sculptured
mausoleum here 40 ft. high, with
columns of a peculiar kind, probably
the tomb of some Mohammedan of
rank. In 1575, when Akbar‘s generals
reduced Bengal, Sunhargaon was the
chief commercial city; the Emperor
Jehangir made Dacca the residence of
the governor, and'called the city J ehan-
rnagar.
Notwithstanding the riches and
celebrity of Dacca, there are few old
buildings of any importance left. On
the S. bank of the river, near the centre
of the city, is the great Kalm (built
in 1645 A.D., according to Hunter),
which means “arched building.” It
bears an inscription with the date 1625.
The small Kati-a was built by Amiru'l
umra Shaistah Khan, in 1663. To the
E. of the town is the Lal Bagh, begun
by Muhammad ’Azim, son of Shah
Jehan, in 1677, and probably never
finished. The walls are of red brick,
and very solid.

The Fort was built by Ibrahim Khan,
the fifth Mogul governor, in 1690. In
1712 J’afar Khan removed the court to
Murshedabad.
A considerable quantity of golol and
silver plate of original design and
excellent workmanship is still made at
Dacca, chiefly for export to Calcutta;
also gold and silver filigree work of
great excellence. The manufacture of
shell bracelets is a speciality.
The once celebrated Dacca muslins
—abmwan, or “running water,” baft-
howa, or "woven air,” subhanam, or
“evening dew "—are almost a thing of
the past; and the demand in Europe
for the old cotton flowered and sprigged
muslin has almost entirely fallen off.
But there is a brisk and increasing
demand for tussore embroidered muslins
(kasiolas) ; and other kinds of muslin,
striped (dorms), checkered (charkana),
and figured (jamdani), are still made
here.
The most pleasant drive at Dacca is
round the Race-course, about 1 In. W.
of the church. S. of it is a fine country
villa belonging to the Nawab.
Dacca is a good place for Pig-sticking
and Tiger-shooting. There are exten-
sive ruins at Sunhargaon, but they can
be visited only on an elephant.
Much of the country about Dacca is
under water in the rainy season, from
June to October.
The rly. from Dacca proceeds N. to
85 m. Mymensing sta. (R. )]
There is a daily steamer from Nar-
ainganj N.E. to Penchuganj in Sylhet
District, the head of the navigation on
the Kusiara river in dry weathcr. The
journey occupies 2 days. (Fenchuganj
is in a direct line 14 m. S. of Sylhet.)
In dry weather it is necessary to take
country boats from here to Cachar
(Silchar).
In the rainy season there is direct
steamer communication between Nar-
ainganj as far as Cachar. [From
Cachar to Manipur (see Rte. 20A) the
distance is 108 m. ; there are several
officers’ Rest Houses alon this rte.,
but the road, in places, is little better
than a jungle track.] In connection
with the daily service a. steamer mns


ROUTE 2 1.
JAGANNATH _ 271
Who is the hereditary sweeper of the
temple. There are distinct sets of
servants to ut the god to bed, to dress
and bathe him, and a numerous band
of nautch girls, who sing before the idol.
Jagannath (J uggurnath) (Sense. =
“ Lord of the Universe ”) is a name of
Krishna, worshipped as Vishnu at the
famous shrine of Puri, in Orissa. The
a El" We"

pilgrims rush forward to draw it, some
may have fallen accidentally beneath its
wheels. In some instances also votar-
ies have been known to throw them-
selves beneath the advancing wheels,
giving rise to the popular notices of
the Car of J agannath. The number of
such suicides, however, has been greatly
exaggerated, and since Orissa came










(00]: Room,



J4

mt? “W‘s-awn“ a 1'1):
Scale 200 r? m the Inch
Temple of J agannath (from Fergusson's Indian Arch.)
image so called is an amorphous idol,
a rudely carved log,1 which some learned
men believe to have been a Buddhist
symbol: it has been adopted as an object
of Brahmanical worship. This idol is
annually dragged in procession on a
monstrous car, and as crowds of fanatic
1 Strictly speaking, there are three of these
disgusting idols, viz. Jagannath, his brother
Balabhadra, and his sister Snbhadra.
under British rule the number has been
much reduced. In 1818 Mr. Stirling
the Resident had witnessed only three
instances of such immolation during
four years. The annual mortality of
the pilgrims amounts to thousands, but
it arises from the pestilential air of Puri,
from famine, and poverty.
The Temple is situated in the centre
of the town, nearly 1 m., as the crow


272 ROUTE 21.
India
CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
flies, from the DB. It stands upon
rising ground, which is called Nil iri,
or the Blue Hill, and is surrounds by
a square enclosing stone wall about 20
ft. high, with a gateway in the centre
of each side. The E. gate is always
open. Within is a second enclosure
surrounded by a double wall having an
interval of 11 ft. between the walls, and
within this again is the temple proper.
The Hall of Oflem'ngs, or Bog Illandir
(D),1 is said to have been built by the
Marathas in the last century, at a cost
of 401akhs of rs. It was part of the
Black Pagoda of Konarak, and was
brought thence by them. The Nath
Mandir (O), or dancing-hall, also of
late date, is a square hall measuring
69 ft. x 67 ft. inside. The walls are
plain, with only two figures of dwarpals,
called Jaya and Vijaya, and a marble
figure of Garuda, 2 ft. high.
The Jagamohan (B), or Hall of
Audience, where the pilgrims see the
idols, is 80 ft. sq. and 120 ft. high.
The Baradewal (A), or Sanctuary,
where the idols are, is also 80 ft. sq.
This part is surmounted by a lofty
conical tower or vimanah.
The idols themselves, that is to
say, Jagannath, with his brother
Balabhadra and his sister Subhadra,
are frightful logs, without hands or
feet, coarsely carved into a wretched
likeness of the human bust. The
tower is 192 ft. high, black with time,
and surmounted by the Wheel and
Flag of Vishnu. The date of its erec-
tion is 1198, and it cost about half a
million sterling ; but it has since been
repeatedly repaired, to “ the ruin of the
temple as a work of art.”
The only beautiful thing to be
seen at Puri is an exquisite Pillar
brought from the Black Pagoda at
Konarak. It stands outside the Lion
or E. gate of J agannath’s temple, on a
platform of rough stones, and reckon-
ing to the top of the seated figure of
Aruna, or the Dawn, which surmounts
it, is 35 ft. high. The Lion Gate,
on entering which the pilgrims are
slightly struck with a wand by an
official, has its name from two large
1 These letters refer to corresponding
letters on thcgplan. ,

lions of the conventional form, with
one paw raised, which stand one at
either side of the entrance. As the
door stands open, it is possible to see
the bands of pilgrims within, but not
the temples, of which, besides the Great
Pagoda, there are more than 100, 13
of them being sacred to Shiva. There
is also a temple to the Sun.
There is a street about 45 ft. broad
all round the temple enclosure. Turn-
ing to the left, from the Lion Gate
along this road, the visitor comes to
the S. gate, where steps lead up to the
entrance. The entrance itself is 15 ft.
high, which is ornamented with many
figures. Above are depicted scenes
from the life of Krishna, The supports
of the massive roof are of iron.
It often happens that while the
visitor is viewing the building, a
couple of men will pass by, carrying
a bundle by a pole, which is passed
through it ; the bundle being a corpse
rolled up in a. cloth, and so carried to
be burned.
1 in. S.W., on the sea-shore near
the Circuit House, is the SwargaDwam,
or “ Door of Paradise,” where, when all
the ceremonies are finished, the pil-
grims bathe in the surf and wash away
their sins. There is a stump of a pillar
4 ft. high on the right hand, near a
small temple. On this pillar offerings
are placed, which are eaten by the
crows. On the left is what is called the
Lahore Math. Within the enclosure
is a well, with excellent fresh water,
which seems wonderful, as the sea is
not 100 yds. off. Opposite will be
seen hundreds of men and women
bathing, the surf rolling over them in
its fury. Afterwards they make little
lumps of sand, and stick little pieces of
wood into them.
To the N.E. of the city, passing on
the left the Chandan Tank and Temple,
to the W. of which are the Mitiani
Tank, and the Markhand Tank and
Temple, is a Bridge said to have been
made by the Marathas, but probably
repaired by them. It was built, ac-
cording to Rajendra Lal Mitra, 1038»50.
It is 278 ft. long by 38 ft. broad, and
has 19 arches. Over this the main
road to Cuttack passes.


ROUTE 21.
JAGANNATH 273
S.E. from this is the Garden House,
to which the Car of Jagannath is
brought at the Car Festival, in June
or July, when pilgrims come trooping
into Puri by thousands a day. The
Garden House stands at the end of the
broad sandy avenue called the Bam-
dand, 1 m. from the Great Temple.
The house is a temple within a. garden
enclosed with a wall 15 ft. high. The
principal gateway faces the temple, and
has a pointed roof, adorned with con-
ventional lions. The gates to this
temple are built upon the Hindu arch
system, with a series of slabs support-
ing the roof, each a little longer than
the other, and projecting beyond it.
This is said to be a very old temple,
but it has not much pretension to
architectural beauty. On the side of the
temple there is a plain raised seat 4 ft.
high and 19 ft. long, made of chlorite,
and this is called the Ratnavedi, the
throne on which the images are placed
when brought to the temple.
The great Car is 45 ft. high and 35
ft. sq., and is supported on 16 wheels of
7 ft. diameter. The brother and sister
of J agannath have separate cars a few
ft. smaller. The car is dragged by 4200
professionals, who come from the neigh-
bouring districts, and during the
festival live at Puri gratis.
The legend is that Indradyumna
pitched his camp here when he arrived
at Puri, and set up an image of Nar-
sing. Here the Sacred Log from the
White Island stranded, and here the
Divine Carver made the images of
J agannath, etc., and here Indradyumna
performed the horse sacrifice a hundred
times over. On the walls are some
fine carvings of horsemen, etc. Out-
side, over the door, are iron figures
of women 2 ft. high, supporting the
roof; also carvings of Brahma with
four heads, worshipping Narayan; of
Krishna playing to the Gopis, etc.
The Bamdand is more than 1 m.
long. It is 180 ft. broad in some
places. According to Rajendra Lal
Mitra, Jagannath and some of his
peculiar ceremonial observances are of
Buddhist origin, and the Car Festival
marks the anniversary of Buddha’s
birthday. Besides the Car Festival
[India]

there are the following holy days: (1)
Ghornagi, “warm clothing festival,”
when the images are dressed in shawls;
(2) Abisheka, sacred as the anniversary
of J agannath’s coronation ; (3) Makara,
when the Sun enters the sign Capricorn.
This corresponds to the Strenae of the
Romans. (4) Dola Yatra, or Holi, to
celebrate the return of spring, the
Carnival of India. It falls on the full
moon of Phalguna: next to the Car
and Bathing Festivals, this is the most
important at Puri. (5) Ramavavani,
birthday of Rama, when Jagannath is
dressed as Rama; (6) Damana-bhanijka
Yatra, anniversary of the destruction
of a demon named Damanika; (7)
Chandana Yatra, the Florialia of the
Romans, and the May-pole of modern
Europe, a feast of flowers ; (8) Rukmini
Harana, anniversary of Rukmini’s
elopement. She was the daughter of
Bhishm, King of Berar, and was be-
trothed to Shishupal, but ran off with
Krishu. (9) Snana Yatra, or “ Bathing
Festival,” when the images are brought
to the N. E. corner of the outer enclos-
ure and bathed at noon, then dressed
and decorated with a proboscis. After
this the images are removed to one of
the side rooms for a. fortnight, and
their room is called Andur Ghar or
“ sick chamber," and the divinities are
said to be laid up with fever in conse-
quence of their unusual bath ; the real
object is to wash off the dust and soot
of the year, and to re-paint the idols.
10 is the Car Festival ; 11, the Sayana
Ekadashi, on the 11th of the first half
of Ashadh. This marks the day when
Vishnu falls into his four months’
slumber. The images are put to bed,
and said to sleep for four months. (12)
J hulana Yatra, on the 11th of the first
half of Shravana. Madanamohana,
the proxy of Jagannath, is every night
for five nights placed in a swing and
entertains with singing and dancing.
(13) Janam, birthday of Krishna,—a
priest acts the father, and a nautch girl
the mother; (14) Parshvaparivartana
Ekadashi, 11th of the first half of
Shravana, in honour of Vishnu when
asleep turning on to his ri ht Side;
(15) Kaliya Damana, on the ay when
Krishna. killed the black serpent.
T


ROUTE 21.
275
BHUVANESHWAR
gods ” (Hist. of Arch. p. 428). The
entrance of the temple is on the E. side.
The interior of the hall is filled to the
height of 8 ft. with- huge stones, which
have fallen from the roof or sides.
Most of them have holes in them,
showing that they have been clamped
with iron. E. of the E. door are two
stone lions, with strongly marked
manes, and one paw lifted up: they
rest on the backs of elephants, which
are smaller in size. The height of the
entrance, which has no door, is 161}
ft. .The roof of the entrance is sup-
ported by two rafters of iron and four
of stone. In front of the entrance,
amongst the stones, lies a bar of iron
23 ft. long, and 111} in. thick and
broad.
The sides of the entrance are orna-
mented with eight rows of patterns,
very finely executed. The temple was
dedicated to the Sun, which divinity is
said to have here cured Sambu, son of
Krishna, of a leprosy of twelve years’
standing. As the E. door was guarded
by lions, so that to the S. was by
horses trampling down armed men,
who from their tusk-like teeth, crisped
hair, and Kulcri knives and shields, are
evidently intended for aborigines. The
N. door had elephants before it. These
and the horses remain, but cast down
at a distance from where they stood.
The W. door is closed by the vast heap
of ruins, of the great tower.
To the S. of the Jagamohan is a
very large banyan tree, under which is
a good place for the traveller to take
his meal ; and near the great tree is a.
grove of palms and smaller trees, and
a garden with a math, or devotee’s
residence ; also a square temple,without
any idol in it. Milk and eggs can be
procured at or near this place, where a
tent might be pitched. Stirling fixes
the date of the Black Pagoda in the
, year 1241, but Mr. Fergusson attributes
it to the latter half of the 9th century.
When he visited Konarak in 1837 a
portion of the Great Tower was still
standing. He is of opinion that the
destruction of the temple was owing,
not to earthquakes, or man’s violence,
but to the nature of the soil, which was
not solid enough to bear so enormous

a structure. He has probably assigned
the true cause for the fall of the build-
ing, but as we know that the Marathas
carried off large portions of it, it is
more than possible that man assisted
very signally in the destruction. Over
the E. entrance used to be a chlorite
slab, on which the emblems of the days
of the week, with the ascending and
descending nodes, were carved. Some
English antiquaries attempted to re-
move it to the Museum at Calcutta,
but after dragging it 200 yds., gave
up the attempt, though the Indian
builders, after excavating the block in
the Hill States, and carving it, had
carried it 80 m. across swamps and
unbridged rivers to Konarak. It lies
now about 200 yds. to the E. of the
Great Tree, and is 20 ft. 2 in. long, 4 ft.
deep, and 4 ft. 10 in. broad. It is sadly
disfigured with oil and red paint, with
which the Hindus have bedaubed it.
At the Jagamohan itself, the traveller
should notice the spirit with which the
horses at the S. face are carved, and
also the device on one of the shields,
of two climbing lizards. The sea,
about 2 n1. off, is not visible from
Konarak.]
[Bhuvaneshwar (pop. 4000), 4 m.
N.W. of Sardaipur. Start early, as the
country is rough and a troublesome
stream is twice crossed. Many ruins
and temples are passed before reaching
the Town, once the capital of a large
and flourishing kingdom, but now
interesting only to the antiquarian.
It occupies the central area between
the temples of Bameshvara, Bhuvan-
eshwar, Kapileshvara, Bhaskareshvara,
and Rameshvara. One half of the-
community are priests or temple ser-
vants, who rank amongst the most
persistent beggars in the world.
The first mention of Bhuvaneshwar,
in the Records of the Temple at Ja-
gannath, dates from the reign of Yayati,
474-526 A.I>., the first of the Kesaris, or
Lion dynasty of Orissa. He expelled
the Yavanas, thought by Stirling and
Hunter to be the Buddhists. His suc-
cessors reigned in Bhuvaneshwar until
Nripati Kesari in 940-50 A.D. founded
Cuttack and made it his capital.


276 ROUTE 21.
I ndia
CALCUTTA '1‘0 PURI AND CUTTACK
7000 shrines once encircled the sacred
lake; now but 500 remain in various
stages of decay, exhibiting every phase
of Orissan art “from the rough con-
ceptions of the 6th cent., through the
exquisite designs and ungrudging
artistic toil of the 12th, to the hurried
dishonest stucco imitations of the
present day.” It is easy to perceive
that there are two styles of architecture
which run side by side with one
another. The first is represented by
the temples of Parashurameshvara
and Mukteshvara, the second by the
Great Temple. They are not antagon-
istic but sister styles, and seem to have
had different origins. “We can find
affinities with the first two, but I
know of nothing like the Great Temple
anywhere else."
“The Great Temple is," says Fer-
gusson, “perhaps the finest example
of a purely Hindu temple in India.”
Unfortunately none but Hindus may
approach the entrance of the enclosure,
the high walls of which are 7 ft. thick
and of large cut stones without mortar.
From the top, however, of a ladder
placed against the N. wall a view of
the interior may be obtained. Within
are also many smaller temples, of
which a. plain one 20 ft. high is the
oldest. At the N.E. corner of the
enclosure wall there is a pavilion per-
haps built for a music hall, but now
containing an image of Parbati.
The Great Temple was built by Lelat
Indra Kesari (617-657) and consisted
originally of only a. vimanah and
porch; the beautiful Nat and Bhog
mandirs were added between 1090 and
1104. The presiding deity is Tribhuva-
ncshvara, “Lord of the Three Worlds,"
generally called Bhuvaneshwar. He
is represented in the sanctuary by a
block of granite 8 ft. in diameter, and
rising 8 In. above the floor. It is
bathed with water, milk, and bhamg.
There are twenty-two dhupas, or cere-
monies daily, consisting in washing the
teeth of the divinity, moving a. lamp in
front, dressing, breakfast, etc.
The Great Tower can be seen from
outside the wall. It is 55 ft. high, and,
though not so large, is decidedly finer
in design than that at Tanj ore. “ Every

inch of the surface is covered with
carving in the most elaborate manner ;
it is not only the divisions of the
courses, the roll mouldings on the
angles, or the breaks on the face of the
tower, but every individual stone in
the tower has a pattern carved upon
it.” Especially in the perpendicular
parts seen from the courtyard “the
sculpture is of a. very high order and
great beauty of design.“ The top of
the spire is flat, and from the centre
rises a cylindrical neck, supporting a
ribbed dome, over which is placed.the
Kalasha or “pinnacle.” Twelve statues
of lions seated support the dome. Over
it is a broken trident.
The Nat Mandi: is elegant, of course,
but differs from the style of the porch,
“in that all power of expression is gone
which enabled the early architects to
make small things look gigantic from
the mere exuberance of labour bestowed
on them."
Outside the enclosure are many small
subterraneous temples, and at the N.E.
corner is a platform with, beyond to the
E., a very handsome tank surrounded
by a row of 108 small temples. The
jungle to the S. of the Great Tower, to
the extent of 20 acres, is said to be the
site of Lelat Indra Kesari’s palace, and
exhibits everywhere the remains of
foundations and pavements. N. of
the temple is the very fine tank called
Vindusaugar, “ocean drop.” In the
centre is a Jal Mandir, or “Water
Pavilion,” consisting of several shrines,
on which perch numerous cranes in
motionless repose. In front of the
central ghat of this tank there is a.
magnificent temple, with a porch, a
more modern dancing-hall, and Bhog
Mandir. All but the Bhog Mandir are
lined with brick-red sandstone, elabor-
ately sculptured. The temple is sacred
to Vasudev, or Krishna, and Ananta or
Balaram, and no pilgrim is allowed to
perform any religious ceremony in the
town or to visit Bhuvaneshwar without
praying for permission here. Passing
along the E. side of the tank, the
traveller will see several temples of the
same shape as the Great Tower. About
:1: In. to the E.N.E. of the Ananta and
Vasudev Temple is one about 40 ft.


ROUTE 21.
277
BHUVANEBHWAR
high to Katitirthcshoam, “The lord
of ten millions of sacred pools." It is
evidently built of stones from some
other edifice. 4} m. to the E. of this is
the Temple of B-rahmeshvara, on a high
mound, formed into a terrace. It is
most sumptuously carved, inside as well
as out, and was erected at the end of
the 9th century A.I). W. of the temple,
close to its terrace, is a tank called
Brahma Kunda. N.E. of the Great
Tower is an old ruined temple to Bhus-
karcshoam, “Sun-god,” of basalt, and
said to belong to the close of the 5th or
the beginning of the 6th century.
Q- m. to the W. of Bhaskareshvara is
the once magnificent Temple of Raj
Rani. Mr. Fergusson says of it (Hist.
of Arch. p. 424) that “the plan is
arranged so as to give great variety
and play of light and shade, and as the
details are of the most exquisite beauty,
it is one of the gems of Orissan Art.”
It faces the E., and has a porch in
front, both of dressed brick-red sand-
stone. The niches are filled with
statues 3 ft. high, executed with great
vigour and elegance ; one of them closely
resembles the statue of Venus de Medici.
General Stewart and Colonel Mackenzie
carried away numbers of statues and
sadly defaced the building. Observe
the pillar with 3 kneeling elephants
and lions, with above a Nagni or
female Naga with her seven-headed
snake hood, and over the doorways the
Navagraha or 9 planets.
About 300 yds. to the W. of the Raj
Rani is a grove of mango trees, called
Siddhamnya, “Grove of the perfect
beings.” Here many temples were
built of which more than 20 remain
entire. Of these the most remarkable
are Mukteshvara, Kedareshvara, Sid-
dheshvara, and Parashurameshvara.
Mukteshvara is the handsomest,
though the smallest. It is 35 ft. high,
and the porch 25 ft. high. The floral
bands are better executed than in
most of the temples; the has-reliefs
sharp and impressive; the statuettes
vigorous and full of action, with
drapery well disposed, and the dis-
position of the whole elegant and most
effective. Among the subjects are:
a lady mounted on a rearing elephant

and attacking an armed giant ; a figure
of Annapurna presenting alms to
Shiva ; females, half‘serpents, canopied
under five or seven-headed cobras ;
lions mounted on elephants, or fighting
with lions; damsels dancing or play-
ing on the mridang; an emaciated
hermit giving lessons. The scroll-
work, bosses, and friezes are worthy of
note. The chamber of the temple is
7 ft. sq., but outside measures 18 ft.
In front of the porch is a Toran 15 ft.
high. It is supported on two columns
of elaborate workmanship, unlike any-
thing of the kind at Bhuvaneshwar.
Over it are two reclining female figures.
It is said that it is used for swinging,
in the D01 Festival. Close behind the
temple is a tank shaded by a Nagakesh-
vara tree (Mcwafcr'rca) of remarkable
size and beauty ; 30 ft. to the S. is the
Ganri Kunda tank. The water is
beautifully clear, tepid, and full of fish,
and the best drinking water in the
locality. Water flows into it from the
first-named tank, but a much greater
quantity flows out, sufficient to irrigate
25 acres of arid laterite soil. It is said
to have been excavated by the goddess
Gauri, and that it bestows beauty, good
fortune, and freedom from all sin.
Kedareshvara..—Close bythis Kunda
is the Kedareshvara Temple, and near
it against the outer wall of a small
room is a figure of Hanuman, the
monkey-god, 8 ft. high, and one of
Durga, standing on a lion. Her statue
is of chlorite, and has the finest female
head to be seen in Bhuvaneshwar. The
Kedareshvara temple is 41 ft. high,
and has an almost circular ground-plan.
This temple is probably older than the
Great Tower, and possibly dates from
the middle of the 6th century. It is
very sacred.
N .W. of Mukteshvara is Siddesh-
vara, which is very ancient, and was
once the most sacred spot on this side
of Bhuvaneshwar. It is 47 ft. high,
and has a well-proportioned porch.
Parashurameshvara, 200 yds. to the
W. of the Ganri tank, Fergusson con-
siders the oldest temple at Bhuvan-
eshwar. “ The sculptures are cut with
a delicacy seldom surpassed." The
ground-plan is a square, the porch IR


278 ROUTE 21.
I quite
CALCUTTA T0 PURI AND CUTTAOK
oblong and covered with has-reliefs
representing processions of horses and
elephants in the upper linear bands
under the cornice, and scenes from the
life of Rama in the lower. The roof is
a sloping terrace, in the middle of
which is a clear story with a sloping
roof, flat in the middle. As the roof-
stones project beyond the openings,
neither direct rays of sun nor rain can
penetrate. This occurs nowhere else
except in the Mohan of the Vaital
Temple.
Alabukeshvam is of red sandstone,
and stands to the N.E. of the last.
Vaital Dewal stands on the roadside
to the W. of the Vindusaugar tank. Its
spire is four-sided, and ends in a long
ridge profusely carved and probably of
the 9th century.
Someshvam stands to the S. of the
last named. It is 33 ft. high and 27
ft. square, and richly carved all
over.
A list of 81 other temples will be
found in the Antiquities of Orissa, vol.
ii. pp. 97, 98.]
[The Caves of Udayagiri and Khan
dagiri lie about 4 m. to the N.W.
through low jungle, which gradually
increases till the hills are reached.
Udayagi'ri is 110 ft. high, and the
caves exist in eight stages. The lowest
being the Rani Naur, or Queen’s Palace,
called by Fergusson the Raj Rani Cave,
near the guide’s hut. “It consists of
two rows of cells, one above the other,
shaded by pillared verandahs, with a
courtyard 49x43 ft. cut out of the
hillside." The upper story, which
faces E., has eight entrances. There
are two dwarpals, representing men in
what appears to be Grecian armour,
with buskins and greaves, cut out of
the solid rock in alto-relieve. The
verandah gives access to four small
cells, and at either end is a rock lion,
executed with some spirit. The back
wall of the verandah is an extensive
series of tableaux, difficult to make out.
First on the left are men carrying fruit,
a group of elephants, and soldiers armed
with swords.
The lower story also has eight en-
trances. The ground-floor front was

formed of a colonnaded verandah 44 ft.
long, having a raised seat or berme
along its whole inner line. It was
formerly supported by a row of eight
square pillars, of which only the two
end ones remain, and opened E. into
an oblong chamber, and N. into three
rooms. Here there is an extensive
frieze, much dilapidated, so that only
four fragments admit of description.
The first represents a house, and afemale
figure looks out of each of the 3 doors
and one from the balcony, which is
protected by a Buddhist rail. A
similar rail runs in front of the lower
story, with a. large tree by its side. In
the second fragment a saint or priest
holds a piece of cloth in his left hand
and extends the right as in the act of
blessing; one servant holds an um-
brella, and another carries a sword.
Lt. is a devotee on his knees, and be-
yond two kneeling women bring ofi‘er-
ings, one dusting the feet of a boy, who
has one hand on her head. In the
third fragment is a saddle-horse with
three attendants, and the holy mar;
with an umbrella held over him, and
two attendants with swords. In the
fourth fragment there is a group of six
women, three carrying pitchers on their
heads, one kneeling and offering her
pitcher to a figure, which is lost.
Ganesh Gumpha (or more correctly
Gupha) is almost due N. of the Rani
Naur Cave, and much higher in the
hill. It has only one story, but two
compartments, with a verandah in
front. There are three pillars in the
front of the verandah, square and
massive, but two others have fallen.
The pillars have brackets, with female
figures carved on them. The flight of
steps leading to the verandah has a
crouching elephant on either side, each
holding a lotus in his trunk. The
verandah is 5 ft. 4 in. high, and its
wall is ornamented with a series of 8
tableaux in alto-rclievo. This frieze
and that in the Rani Naur Cave repre-
sent the same story, the main difference
being that in this cave the figures are
more classical and better drawn, and,
therefore, Mr. Fergusson thinks, more
modern. In the Rani’s cave they are
certainly more Hindu. Of the story


CAVES OF UDAYAGIRI AND KHANDAGIRI
279
from which these designs are taken,
nothing is known.
50 yds. W. of Rani Naur Cave is a
flight of steps which lead to a two-
storied cave called Swargapuri. Both
stories have two rooms, with a verandah
in front, which has been supported by
pillars now broken. There is no carving
or inscription except on some pilasters
near the door, from the top of which
runs a line of Buddhist rails, sur-
mounted by an elephant in has-relief,
with what is perhaps a human figure
and a tree behind it. _
N. of these are the Jaya Vejaya, or
Gates of Hansapur. There is a frieze
with three compartments, the base
being formed of a line of Buddhist
rails. In the central compartment is
a B0 tree. Beside the tree are two
male figures, that on the left with
folded hands, and that on the right
holding a bit of cloth tied to the tree
and a small branch. Near the men
are two females bringing trays of
offerings. The scrollgwork on the
semicircular bands over the doorways
are different, and beyond them are two
turbaned figures carrying trays of
offerings. At the sides of the facade
are a man and woman, 6 ft. high, in
alto-relieve. To the left is a small
cave called Dwarkapura.
Gopalapum.—To the N.W. are two
groups of caves, named Gopalapura
and Munchapnra. On the piers of the
hall are two inscriptions in the Lat
character, now illegible.
Vaikuntha.-—This and two other
caves, Patalapura' and Jamapura, are
a little to the N.W. They are much
defaced and are now uninteresting.
75 yds. to the N.W. is the Hathi
Gupha, or “Elephant Cave,” of which
Mr. Fergusson says: “It is an extensive
natural cave, unimproved by art ” (Tree
and Serpent FVo'rship, 2d ed. p. 267).
To the left is a boulder which has been
hollowed out into a cell 5 ft. sq. Over
the entrance, cut into the scarped rock,
is an inscription in the most ancient
Lat character, perhaps the oldest
Indian engraved document that has
come down to us. This long inscription
is an account of the grandeur and piety
of Aira the King of Kalinga.

“All who take interest in Indian
antiquities,” says Prinsep, “will at
once see the value of the above
record, perhaps the most curious that
has yet been disclosed to us." Rajen-
dra Lal Mitra supposes that Aira men-
tioned in the inscription lived within
the hundred years preceding the acces-
sion of Chandragupta to the throne of
Magadha, in 316 13.0. There are several
smaller inscriptions within the cave,
some in ill-formed Gupta character,
others in equally degenerate Kutila.
They were out probably by idle monks
or visitors. A few yds. N. of the
Elephant Cave is the Pavana Gupha,
or “ Cave of Purification."
About 75 ft. to the S.W. of the
Pavana Gupha is the Sarpa Gupha, or
“Serpent Cave.” On the top of the
entrance is a rude carving of the hood
of a three-headed cobra. Under this
is the door, through which a. man can
just crawl ; the interior is a cube of 4 ft.
Beside the door is an inscription thus
translated by James Prinsep: “The
unequalled chamber of Chulakarma
and the appropriate temple of Karma
Rishi.” Near this is the Bhajana
Gupha, or “Cave of Meditation." A
little to the N. is the Alakapura, or
“Palace of Indra.” Neither is of any
importance.
Bagh Gupha, or “Tiger Cave.”-—At
50 ft. to the N. is the very interesting
Tiger Cave, cut externally into the
shape of the upper part of a tiger's
head, with the jaws at full gape.
The eyes and nose of the monster are
very well marked, but the teeth are
now imperfectly discernible. The
head at top, where it joins the hill,
is 8 ft. 8 in. broad. The gape is 9 ft.
wide, and the entrance to the cell
occupies the place of the gullet. To
the right of the entrance is an inscrip-
tion in the Lat character, which says,
“The Cave of Sasevin,” a fierce oppon-
ent of the Vedas. At the beginning
of the inscription is a Buddhist mono-
gram, and at the end a Svastika. A
little N. of the Tiger Cave is the
Urdhabahu, a one-storied chamber, 12
ft. x 6 ft. wide, with a verandah
faced by pillars with lion capitals and
brackets carved like female figures.


ROUTE 21.
curraox 281
sists of one-third of a mile of sand and
150 to 200 yds. of water 1 ft. deep.
The banks are high, and in the rainy
season the river is perhaps 1% in. broad
and 15 ft. .deep.
Cuttack,* D.B. (pop. 51,000), is
situated at the apex of the delta 0f the
Malianadi river, which rises in the
Raipur district of the Central Provinces,
and has a length of 529 m. It pours
down upon the delta through thenarrow
gorge of Naraj, 7 111. W. of the town
of Cuttack, and, dividing into two
streams, encircles the city on the N.
and E., and on the W. by its branch,
called the Katjuri. The river during
the rain pours down a prodigious flood,
and to prevent its sweeping away the
city, an important stone embankment
has been erected on the spit of land on
which the city has been built.
The DH is in the middle of the
Cantonments, on the right of the road
going down to the fort. About one-
fifth of a mile' beyond it is the Parade-
ground, with the English Church, N.,
Roman Catholic Chapel and Orphanage,
W., and Baptist Mission, S.
The Fort is called Barabati, and
is all that remains of one thought by
Stirling to have been built by Rajah
Anang Bhim Deo, in the 14th century.
He says: “The square sloping bas-
tions and general style bespeak a
Hindu origin." M. la Motte, who
travelled in 1767 A.D., thought the
Fort like the W. side of Windsor
Castle. It has now been converted
into an unsightly series of earthen
mounds; the stones of the moat hav-
ing been taken in 1873 to build an
hospital, and those of the Fort to con-
struct the lighthouse at False Point.
The only objects of interest which
remain are the grand arched Gatewm ,
flanked by two lofty square towers, in
the E. face, added by the Mohammedan
or the Maratha governors of Orissa in
1750 A.D., as mentioned in Persian in-
scriptions, and the Mosque of Fath Khan.
In the Ain-i-Akbari it is said that
there was, within the Fort, the famous
palace of Rajah Mukund Deo, nine
stories high. 1 This has utterly perished,
but from the ruins have been dug up
fragments of cornices, and a massive

candelabrum of fine indurated chlorite.
The top of the ruined citadel is 100 ft.
above the level of the river.
On the way to the Fort, before
entering the Cantonmcnts, close to the
bank of the Taldanda Canal, is a garden
named after Mr. J. Beanies, a former
collector. At the W. extremity is a
beautifully carved arch 9 ft. high, and
several carved stones, all of which Were
brought from Alti by Mr. Beames. On
the side pilasters are five rows of orna-
ments deserving attention.
After crossing the bridge over the
canal, the Commissioner’s Cutcherry, a
large building, is passed on the right.
The stone facing of the Katjuri river
was made by the Marathas. The bank
is in places 25 ft. high, and is faced with
fine blocks of laterite and sandstone.
Wain—Near Cuttack are import-
ant weirs for regulating the flow of the
rivers. Two of these, the Birupa and
Mahanadi, may be seen in quitting the
place. The traveller can drive along
a road a little to the N. of the Taldanda
Canal to the J obra Ghat, where are
the Great D. P. W. workshops, the Mah-
anadi Weir, and the place of starting
of the launches for Chandbali, False
Point, and Bhadrak. The Birupa river
leaves the Mahanadi on its right bank,
and the weir there is 1980 ft. long and
9 ft. high. Of the four canals which
form the Orissa Irrigation System, two
take 03 from the Birupa Weir, and
one with its branch from the Mahanadi
Weir. The two former are the High
Level Canal and the Kendrapara, the
latter is the Taldanda. The Mahanadi
Weir is 6400 ft. long and 12% ft. high,
and cost in round numbers 13 lakhs of
rs. It was begun in 1863 and completed ,
in 1869-70.
Steamers, etc.
The launches of three companies
leave Cuttack every Wed. conveying
passengers to Chandbali, where they are
transferred to sea-going steamers for
Calcutta; every Sat. a launch leaves
to meet a sea-going steamer at Awa,
which starts for Calcutta on Mon.; and
twice weekly a Govt. launch leaves for
Bhadrak, travelling by_the High Level
Canal,—a picturesque Journey.


282 ROUTE 21.
India
CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
The steamers of the B.I.S.N. 00.
call regularly at False Point on their
downward journey for Madras and
coast ports, but not on their return
journey to Calcutta]
[C'uttack to False Point.
A steam launch runs between Cut-
tack and False Point in connection
with the steamers from Calcutta and
Bombay and coast ports. The distance
between Cuttack and False Point is
64§ m.; of this 54 m. is by canal.
The journey is generally performed in
24 hours. Half an hour after leaving
Cuttaek the boat will pass the first
lock, and enter the Kendrapara Canal,
which is here about 80 feet broad. It
takes about 6 hours to reach the place
where the canal bifurcates, and five
locks are passed, each causing a delay
of 7 to 10 minutes. Where the canal
branches into two, the right branch
leads to Marsughat, and the left to
Awa for Chandbali. There are three
more locks before reaching the Jambu
lock, where tidal waters are reached
about 6 m. from Hookeytollah, the
great station for False Point harbour.
Since the calamitous cyclone of 1885,
a substantial Refuge House has been
erected at Hookeytollah.]
[C'uttack to Jajpur.
The stages are as follows :—
Names of Stations. Miles
Cuttack to Tanghi . . . . 11
Tanghi to Barchana . . . . 10
Barchana to Dharamsala . . . 9
Dharamsala to Jaipur . . . 14
Total 44
_ The distance, as the crow flies, is
about 35 m. Leaving Cuttack at about
5 P.M., you will be able to cross the
Mahanadi during daylight, and proceed
during the night 34 m. up the Grand
Trunk Road, passing three Inspection
or Dak Bungalows, at Tanghi, Barchana,
and Dharamsala, where the palki will
cross the river Brahmani in a ferry-
boat. 3 m. farther you leave the Trunk
Road at Kuakhia, turning rt. There
is a short out after crossing the river,
but it is not advisable to take it. The
road then proceeds 10 m. to the E.,

crossing en 'route three rivers unbridged,
but fordable in the cold weather; and at
sunrise you reach
Jajpnr. — Yayati Kesari, coming
from Behar, found J ajpur a place of
importance, and made it his capital for
a time. It was close to Dantapura,
Where the sacred tooth of Buddha was
kept, and in the 4th and 5th century
A.D. it was called the navel of Bud-
dhism. Yayati subdued it, and con-
verted the sanctuaries into Hindu
places of worship, but in 1558 Kalapa-
har, a famous champion of Islam, de-
feated the Hindus in a great battle at
Gahvara Tekri, 4 m. to the N.E. of
J aj pur. It is believed that whole
armies are buried here. Kalapahar
demolished all the Hindu temples, and
the accumulated treasures of art of 1000
years were lost for ever.
J ajpur (pop. 11,000) _is situated on
the S. bank of the Baitarani river. It
was the capital of Orissa until the 11th
century, when it was superseded by
Cuttack. With the aid of a palki, or
a pony, the visitor can see all that is to
be seen at Jajpur in one day. Close
to the DH. is a noble mosque, built by
Nawab Abu Nasi'r in 1681 A.D. out of
the stones of Hindu palacesand temples.
Adjoining the mosque is the residence
of the Magistrate, in whose compound
are to be seen three monolithic statues of
blue chlorite.l One is Indrani, wife of
Indra, the air-god, afour-armed goddess,
with an admirably-cut elephant as her
footstool. The earth goddess, Varahini,
the wife of Vishnu in his boar incarna-
tion, sits with her infant on her knee.
The most striking of the three mono-
liths re resents Chamunda, the wife of
the Al -Destroyer, a colossal naked
skeleton, with the skin hanging to the
bones, and the veins and muscles
standing out in ghastly fidelity. These
figures are finely carved, and the details
of the ornaments are worth observa-
tion. A temple to Vishnu, in his boar
incarnation, crowns a flight of stairs
leading up from the river.
1 They were brought from the Cenotaph of
Saiyad 'Ali Bukhari, a Pathan saint, who ac-
companied Kalapahar, and when his head was
cut off, at the siege of Barabati, rode without
it to Jaipur, and was buried there.


ROUTE 21.
JAJPUR 283
In a gallery overlooking the dried-up
bezel q' the river are seven idols, elabor-
ately carved, and each made of a block
of chlorite 6 ft. high. Mr. James
thinks they have been collected from
various desecrated shrines, and that
some pious Hindu, seeing them placed
against a wall, erected a vaulted roof
over them, and a wall in front. Six
of them are goddesses with four arms
each, the seventh is Narsing. The
first goddess is Kali, or Chamunda,
treading on her husband Shiva. The
next is the wife of Yama, or “Death,”
with a swine’s head; at her feet is a
bufl'alo. Next is the wife of Indra; an
elephant serves her as footstool. Lakh-
slimi comes next ; with two hands she
holdsa child, in a third Vishnu’s \Vheel,
and in her fourth a shell. Beneath
her feet is Garuda. Next is a naked
emaciated old hag, the Mother of Death,
squatting down. Below her are two
votaries, and between them three kinds
of bells—the bell of Yama, that of Kali,
and that of Vishnu. Savitri, the wife
of Brahma, comes next. Parliati comes
next, with a bull at her feet. Below
Narsing are two groups of worshippers
and female attendants waving the
chauris.
Close to the gallery is a temple con-
taining a large image of Ganpati.
Opposite the gallery, in a wooded
island in the middle of the river, is the
second great temple, dedicated to the
boar incarnation, and groups of smaller
temples. Beside the main flight of
steps which lead up from the river are
two roofless temples, over the gate of
which is an efiigy of the Sun driving
six horses, and a bull in the midst.
S. about 1% in. along the Bingapur
high road, turn 1. to the most beautiful
object in Jajpur—the Garuola Pillar,
32 ft. high; the base is 5 ft. 5 in.
high, square, and composed of large
blocks of stone without any ornament.
The shaft and capital are 26 ft. 7 in.
high, and appear to be a. monolith.1 The
capital, of exquisite proportion, is carved
to imitate lotus blossoms, and adorned
1 The six-sided shaft is about 17 ft. 7 in.
high and is in one piece with an octagonal
base on a square, the whole being about 19 ft.
8 in. over all.

below with lions' heads, from whose
mouths depend strings of roses or beads.
The capital once was crowned with a
figure of Garuda. The Garuda is said to
have been hurled from the summit of the
pillar by the Mohammedans, who at-
tempted also to destroy the pillar itself.
The Garuda, or a fac-simile of it, now
stands in the ante-chamber of a small
temple of Nursing, in Madhupur, a
village about 1 m. to the S.E. of the
temple of Jagannath at Jajpur. It is
a fine piece of sculpture 4 ft. high,
carved out of black chlorite, and repre-
sents a. human figure resting on one
knee, the palms of the hands pressed
together in an attitude of devotion.
Short wings are attached to the
shoulders, and while the hair of the
fore part of the head is dressed in the
shape of a mitre, the back part of the
head is covered with a profusion of
curls. The face and attitude are
majestic, but the nose is lengthened to
imitate a bird’s beak. It rests on a.
pedestal which is an exact duplicate
of the capital and upper shaft of the
pillar.
Return now to the Bingapur road,
and proceed to the Maralha Bridge, a
fine specimen of architecture. It is not
so large as the bridge of the same name
at Puri, but has twelve horizontal
arches, and is built in precisely the
same fashion. It appears to be of
extreme antiquity, and has been re-
paired with fragments of carvings in
relief taken from temples. It also goes
by the name of the Devidwar, lit.
“ Goddess-door Bridge," from its prox-
imity to
The Temple of Biraja, “ the Passion-
less One," 500 yds. farther on through
beautiful groves of palms and mango
trees, and opposite the Brahma Kund,
a tank faced with stone. Hindus alone
are admitted to the temple, but through
the breaches in the enclosure can be
seen the Hall of Audience and the tall
spire. There are some curious sculpa
tures let into the wall at the portico.
Regain the highway, and a little be-
yond the second milestone, 200 yds.
from the road, on the left-hand side, is the
Temple of Triloclzan, or the three-eyed
god, Le. Shiva. The base of the original


284 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
tower, which is now about 60 ft. high,
has survived the general ruin, and for a
height of about 14 ft. from the ground
still stands, richly carved as of yore,
giving some idea of the past glories of
Jajpur. The rest of the building is
covered with stucco.
Between the Temple of Trilochan
and the road, in an underground cham-
ber, is a very holy and frightful image
of Kali with eighteen arms. In a temple
on the other side of the road are some
fine sculptures. A pipul tree growing
on the top of the spire of this temple
has gradually forced its roots to the
very bottom, and is slowly Tending it
asunder.
Jajpur formerly stood on the main
road to Puri, and the pilgrims to Ja-
gannath used regularly to resort to it,
but the sanctity of the place has much
diminished. It is, however, worthy of
inspection by all who take an interest
in Hindu antiquities. Many fragments
of halls and temples, all built of fine cut
stone, are to be found in the town. A
nautch at this place is very different
from the dull, stupid ceremony which
passes under that name at Calcutta
and in the rest of India. The ancient
palace at Jajpur was destroyed by the
ofiicers of the English Public Works
Department, who built bridges along
the Trunk Road with the stones. At
14} m. to the E. of Jajpur a colossal
figure of Padmapani was dug up ; the
feet are lost, but the total height must
have been about 17 ft. 6 in. This figure
is now called Shanta Madhava : it has
been removed to the Magistrate’s com-
pound.
Should the traveller prefer it, he
may return to Calcutta m'a Balasore;
which is only 65 m. in a direct line
from Jajpur to Chandbali (45 m.), from
which steamers run every week]
Balasore, D. B. This place was once
of great commercial importance, and the
Dutch, and the Danes also,had a factory
here. The French still possess a small
territory of some 100 acres at Balasore ;
where the Churruck Puja, long stopped
throughout British India, is annually
celebrated.

ROUTE 22
BOMBAY TO MADRAS BY THE Boa
GHAT
Rail 794 m. Mail train about forty hours
in transit.
For the journey as far as 34 m.
Kalyan junc. sta. see Rte. 1; from
Kalyan one branch of the railway goes
N.E. up the Tal Ghat to Allahabad
and Calcutta, whilst the S.E. branch
ascends the Bor Ghat and passes
through Poona to Madras. Proceed-
ing by the latter we reach at
38m. Ambarnath sta., “Immortal
Lord," a village of 300 inhab. It gives
its name to the district in which the
town of Kalyan is situated. 1 m. E.
is the temple of Ambarnath in a pretty
valley. Dr. Wilson regarded the temple
as decidedly Shivite. In a niche on
the N. side of the adytum is a Trimurti,
or “three-headed Shiva." The figure,
from its multiplex and fictitious heads
and skeleton legs, is as deformed as can
be imagined. The temple is an object
of considerable interest as a specimen
of genuine Hindu architecture : it faces
W., but the mandapam, or hall, in
front of the shrine has doors also to
the N. and S. The roofs of the porti-
coes between the lintels are covered
by carved slabs with beautiful designs,
in which birds and the heads of the lion
of the south are introduced. The door
from the portico into the temple is
richly carved. The roof of the hall is
supported by four elaborately-carved
co umns. So rich and varied is the
sculpture on these pillars that no
description could give an ade uate
idea of it. The pediment of the oor-
way leading into the vimanah is orna-
mented with elephants and lions, and
in the centre with figures of Shiva.
The interior of the shrine shows how
carefully the long stones of dark basalt
were jointed and bedded, mortar not
being in use among the Hindus until
the Mohammedan conquest. Like all
Hindu temples of the northern style,
the outside of the building is a series
of projecting corners. The base is a


ROUTE 22.
MATHERAN 285
series of projecting and receding courses,
one of the upper ones representing a
string of curious horned and bat-like
faces; then comes a band with
elephants’ heads and small human
figures; next a band with half-goat,
half-bat-like faces ; then a deeper course
with innumerable human figures. A
curious belt of beautiful carving runs
up each face of the vimanah. An
inscription inside the lintel of the N.
door gives the date of the building of
the temple as =860 A.D.
54 m. Neral sta. (R. ) [Passengers for
Matheran leave the rail at this point.
The station-master or the superin-
tendent at Matheran should be written
to beforehand to have a pony or a
tonga with bearers ready to take the
traveller up the hill. The ascent (8 m.)
is by a very good bridle-path, and 2%
hrs. must be allowed from the rly. sta.
t0 the hotels at the top of the hill.
The path passes through Neral and
begins to ascend at the end of the 1st
In. ; during the 2d m. it ascends 550 ft.
amongst rocks. In the 3d 111. the path
climbs the boulder-strewn hillside to
the height of 975 ft.; and at the 4th,
rising to 1525 ft., enters the Neral wood.
At the end of the 5th in. the height
is 2138 ft. The 6th in. brings the
traveller to the plateau on the top of
Matheran Hill, which is 2283 ft. above
the sea-level. The 7th n1. reaches 2375
ft; and the 8th in. descends to 2109
ft. From the 3d m. the ascent is very
steep indeed, but for the greater part
of the way luxuriant trees clothe the
side of the hill, and cloak the preci-
pice.
The hill-station of Matheran stands
upon a spur of the Sahyhadri range, and
is an agreeable airy summer resort for
the people of Bombay. There are a
Church, a Subscription Library, and
grounds for croquet, badminton, and
lawn tennis. The summit of the hill
where the station is situated forms a
narrow tableland running N. and S.,
with offshoots in many directions,
limited on all sides by precipices some-
times 1500 ft. high, and terminating
abruptly in bluffs called “Points.”
One of the first spots to visit is Alex-

andra Point, which is about 1% m. from
the church to the S.; then 1 m. to
Chauk Point, to the S. of the main
plateau. The view is very beautiful,
resembling those from Sydney and
Elphinstone Points at Mahabaleshwar.
To the right of the traveller as he looks
down from Chauk Point will be seen
the old road to Chauk, by which Hugh
Poyntz Malet ascended when he dis-
covered Matheran in 1850. There is
a thick belt of primeval forest half-way
up the mountain through which the
road passes. This old road is most
difficult and steep. Chauk is a stiflingly
hot village about 14 m. N. of Panwell,
on the old road to Poona, and about
5 m. S.S.W. of Chauk Point. About
1% m. to the left the traveller will see
Gharbat Point, from which a long
narrow ridge runs tapering down into
the low country, and this ridge bounds
the view in that direction. Another
ride should be to Panorama Point,
which is to the N .\V. of the bungalows.
The distance is a little over 4 m.
The road leads throu h a thick jungle
of beautiful trees, and about 5 m. from
Panorama Point comes to a. point
parallel with Porcupine Point, where
a precipice descends abruptly 1000 ft.
At 100 yds. from its termination the
road goes quite round the brow of the
peak, and here there is a truly beautiful
panoramic view of the country from
which the point gets its name. To the
l. is Hart Point and Porcupine Point.
Far in the distance is Prabal Point, where
there is a fort of the same name, which
signifies “Mighty.” Between Matheran
and Prabal the mountain sinks down
abruptly to the plain. Below and to
the N. of Panorama Point is the Bhao
Mallin (or Bawa Malang) Range, 10
in. long, with strange cylindrical or
bottle-shaped peaks. The huts of Neral
village lie directly below, and beyond
them is the curving line of the G.I.P.
Rly. Matheran is 28 In. due E. of
Bombay, which may be seen with its
shipping on a clear day. In the even-
ing a ride may be taken to the new
Bmul, an embankment of very hard
blue stone, which is quarried on the
spot. It is 100 ft. long and 3 ft. broad
at top. There are other points which


286 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
may be visited in the bills, but none
equal to those already mentioned]
62 m. Karjat junc. sta. From here
a short line runs S. 9 m. to Campoli,
but it is only used in the dry season.
At Karjat the engine is changed for
one much more powerful to ascend the
B01- Ghat. The ghat begins 1 m. from
Karjat. The gradient is 1 in 42 ; the
trains are furnished with powerful
breaks. The circuitous line passes
through, to Lonauli (17 m.), a succes-
sion of short tunnels with beautiful
views between of green valleys and
rocky wooded mountain sides, down
which, in the rains, innumerable water-
falls descend. After rising about 1000
ft., the Flag-staff and D. B. at Khandala
are seen far up on the left, and on the
right the level valley from Panwell to
Campoli. The latter is a large and
very pretty village, with a fine tank
and temple to Mahadeo, built by the
celebrated Maratha minister, Nana
Farnavis. Campoli is 23:} m. from
Panwell.1 The scenery is beautiful.
At the back of Nana’s Temple the
ghat rises perpendicularly and seems
to overhang it; over the lake spreads
a magnificent banyan tree, and near it
is a grove of mango trees.
The Government Bungalow at Khan-
dala, the lowest point on the tableland
reached by the rly., is 1800 ft. and at
Lonauli the ghat is 2037 ft. above the
sea.
The total length of tunnelling is 2535
yds. The estimated cost of this incline
was £597,222, or £41,188 a mile.
The beautiful scenery of the moun-
tains, and the peculiar character of the
incline, make the passage of .the Bar
Ghat one of the most remarkable stages
in Indian travel. At the reversing-
station, one portion of the incline is,
as it were, terraced 1400 ft. directly
over the Konkan. In some parts the
line is one half on rock benching, while
the other half is supported by lofty
walls of masonry, or in places where
the height is too great for a wall, by
vaulted arches. The viaduct that
1 The old route to Poona from Bombay was
by boat across the harbour to Par ll . d
thence to Campoli. we , m

crosses the Mhau ki Mali Khind is 163
ft. high above the footing, and consists
of eight semicircular arches of 50 ft.
s an.
At 1350 ft. above the sea the train
halts for ten minutes at the reversing-
station; the halt being for the engine
to pass to the other end of the train.
78 m. Khandala, D.B.* This
beautiful village has for long been a
favourite retreat for the wealthy in-
habitants of Bombay from the dis-
tressing heat of the summer months.
It presents many attractions to the
tourist and the sportsman. The village
itself is large. On the left of the road
is a bungalow built by General Dicken-
son, of the Bombay Engineers, who did
much to make the place known, and
to improve the roads. The site is well
chosen; it overlooks a tremendous
ravine, the sheer depth of which is in
great part concealed by luxuriant trees.
At the bottom winds a small silvery
stream. About 1 m. from this stands
the D.B., also on the edge of the
ravine; and on the right is a large
tank, adjoining which is the bungalow
of Sir Jamshidji Jijibhai. Leading
past this, to the E., is a road to a
magnificent hill called the Duke’s
Nose, whence is a fine view over the
Konkan, similar to those at Matheran,
already described. There is a Conva-
lescent Hospital at Khandala in charge
of the “All Saints’ ” sisters (from
Margaret Street).
Beyond the tank is the village of
Khandala; and still farther on the
Karli Road is the beautiful wood of
Lanauli.
The Waterfall is distant from the
D.B. about 1} m. on the opposite side
of the ravine. To reach it, it is neces-
sary to go about 1% m. round the head
of a watercourse. In the monsoon the
distant view of the fall from the top
of the ghat is very fine. There are
then two cataracts, divided into upper
and lower by a short interval. The
upper cataract has a sheer fall of 300 ft.
80 m. Lonauli sta. 10: (R.) Here is
the G.I.P. Railway Company’s School
and Church, and from this place or


ROUTE 22.
KARLI 287
from Khandala the tall precipice called
the Duke’s Nose, which is about 4 m.
off, may be visited. The ascent is by
the S. shoulder, and is very steep.
A traveller desiring to see the caves at
Karli should bear in mind that few
trains stop at Karli station, but all
stop at Lonauli. The caves are only
6 m. from Lonanli, which is a good
place to start from. A pony can be
ridden all the way, whilst a tonga can-
.not go within 1% m. of the caves.
But where ladies are concerned the
pleasantest way is to take a tonga to
the foot of the hill, and ride up the
ascent of about 600 ft.
85 m. Karli sta., 10: DE. Here is a
barrack for 200 men, with a small
village to the right, hidden among trees.
The celebrated caves are on a hill about
2 m. to the N.W. of the bungalow and
6 m. from the rly. sta.
The following is from Mr. Fer usson’s
description of the Karli cave: “The
great cave of Karli is, without excep-
tion, the largest and finest chaitya
cave in India, and was excavated at a
time when the style was in its greatest
purity, and is fortunately the best pre-
served. Its interior dimensions are
124 ft. 3 in. in total length, 81 ft. 3
in. length of nave. Its breadth from
wall to wall is 45 ft. 6 in., while the
width of the central aisle is 25 ft. 7 in.
The height is only 46 ft. from the floor
to the apex.” The same writer says:
“The building resembles an early
Christian church in its arrangements,
while all the dimensions are similar to
those of the choir of Norwich Cathe-
dral.” The nave is separated from the
side aisles by fifteen columns with
octagonal shafts on each side, of good
design and workmanship. On the
abacus which crowns the capital of
each of these are two kneeling ele-
phants, and on each elephant are two
seated figures, generally a male and
female, with their arms over each
other’s shoulders; but sometimes two
female figures in the same attitude.
The sculpture of these is very good,
and the effect particularly rich and
pleasing. Behind the altar are seven
__—_-n_n‘_-__
plain octagonal piers without sculpture,
maklng thus thirty-seven pillars alto-
gether, exclusive of the Lion-pillar in
In!) 7'



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Cave at Karli.
front, which is sixteen-sided, and is
crowned with four lions with their
hinder parts joined. The chaitya is
plain and very similar to that in the
lar e cave at Ajanta, but here, fortun-
ate y, ~a part of the wooden umbrella
which surmounted it remains. The
wooden ribs of the roof, too, remain
nearly entire, proving beyond doubt
that the roof is not a copy of a masonry
arch; and the framed screen, filling
up a portion of the great arch in front,
like the centering of the arch of a
bridge (which it much resembles), still

1 Ruck-cut Temples of India, p. 27.
retains the place in which it was origin-


288 ROUTE 22.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
ally placed. At some distance in ad-
vance of the arched front of this cave
is placed a second screen, which exists
only here and at the great cave at Sal-
sette, though it might have existed in
front of the oldest chaitya caves at
Ajanta. It consists of two plain octa-
gonal columns with pilasters. Over
these is a deep plain mass of wall, oc-
cu ying the place of an entablature,
an over this again a superstructure
of four dwarf pillars. Except the
lower piers, the whole of this has been
covered with wooden ornaments ; and,
by a careful examination and measure-
ment of the various mortices and foot-
ings, it might still be possible to make
out the greater part of the design. It
appears, however, to have consisted
of a broad balcony in front of the
plain wall, supported by bold wooden
brackets from the two piers, and either
roofed or having a second balcony
above it. No part of the wood, how-
ever, exists now, either here or at Sal-
sette. It is more than probable, how-
ever, that this was the music gallery
or Nakar Khana, which we still find
existing in front of almost all Jain
temples, down even to the present day.
Whether the space between this outer
and the inner screen was roofed over
or not is extremely difficult to decide.
To judge from the mortices at Salsette,
the space there would seem to have
had a roof; but here the evidence is
by no means so distinct, though there
is certainly nothing to contradict the
supposition. There are no traces of
painting in this cave, though the inner
wall has been plastered, and may have
been painted ; but the cave is inhabited,
and the continued smoke of cooking-
fires has so blackened its walls that it
is im ossible to decide the question.
Its in abitants are Shivites, and the
cave is considered a temple dedicated
to Shiva, the dagoba performing the
part of a gigantic lingam, which it re-
sembles a good deal. The outer porch
is 52 ft. wide and 15 ft. deep. Here
originally the fronts of three elephants
in each end wall supported a frieze
ornamented with the rail, but at both
ends this second rail has been cut away
to introduce figures. Above was a

thick quadrantal moulding, and then
a rail with small facades of temples,
and pairs of figures.
“ It would be of great importance if
the age of this cave could be positively
fixed ; but though that cannot quite be
done, it is probably antecedent t0 the
Christian era ; and at the same time
it cannot possibly have been excavated
more than 200 years before that era.
From the Silasthamba (pillar) on the
left of the entrance Colonel Sykes
copied an inscription, which Mr. Prin-
sep deciphered in vol. vi. of the
Journal of the Asiatic Society. It
merely says: ‘This lion-pillar is the
gift of Ajmitra Ukas, the son of Saba
Ravisabhoti’; the character Prinsep
thinks is of the 1st or 2d century 3.0.
From its position and import, the
inscription appears to be integral, and
the column is certainly a part of the
original design. I am inclined to
think the date, 163 B.c., is at least
extremely probable.
“It would be a subject of curious
inquiry to know whether the wood-
work now existing in this cave is that
originally put up or not. Accustorned
as I had long been to the rapid
destruction of everything wooden in
India, I was half inclined to be angry
when the idea first suggested itself to
me ; but a calmer survey of the matter
has convinced me that it is. Certain
it is that it is the original design, for
we find it repeated in stone in all
the niches of the front, and there is
no appearance of change or alteration
in any part of the roof. Every part of
it is the same as is seen so often re-
peated in stone in other and more
modern caves, and it must, therefore,
have been put up by the Buddhists
before they were expelled; and if we
allow that it has existed 800 or 1000
years, which it certainly has, there
is not much greater improbability in
its having existed near 2000 years, as I
believe to be the case. As far as I
could ascertain the wood is teak.
Though exposed to the atmosphere,
it is protected from the rain, and has
no strain upon it‘but its own weight,
as it does not support the roof, though
it appears to do so; and therock


ROUTE 22.
291
CHINCHWAD—KIRKEE
pusillanimous conduct was vainly com-
bated by the gallant Hartley. Mr.
Carnac sent Mr. Holmes to make terms
with the enemy, and was not ashamed
afterwards to declare that he granted
the powers to that gentleman, under a
mental reservation that they were of
no validity. The terms agreed upon
were that everything should be restored
to the Marathas as held by them in
1773; that the committee should send
an order to the Bengal column, ad-
vancing to their support, to halt ; that
the English share of Broach should be
given to Sindia; and 41,000 rs. to
his servants. However, as soon as the
committee were safe down the ghats,
they broke faith, by countermanding
the order to the Bengal troops, though
the Marath as held two hostages, Mr. Far-
mer and Lieut. Stewart, for the due
performance of the treaty. For this
disgraceful convention and retreat Col.
Egerton, Col. Cockburn, and Mr. Car-
nac were dismissed the service, but
Hartley was promoted to Lieut.-Col.
109 m. Chinchwad sta. The village
has a picturesque appearance from the
riverside. Above the handsome flight
of stone steps which leads to the river
Mula are many fine trees, but the
temple is low and devoid of ornament.
116 m. Kirkee sta. is only 3% m.
from Poona, and may be considered
part of the same station. It is inter-
esting as being the scene of a splendid
victory over Baji Rao, the last Peshwa.
On the 1st of November 1817 the dis—
positions of that prince had become so
threatening, that Mr. Elphinstone,
then Resident at Poona, determined to
remove the troops from the cantonment
of that place to Kirkee, where, on the
5th, they took up a good position to the
east of an eminence, on which stands
the village of Kirkee, and where the
stores and ammunition were stationed.
In the rear of the troops was the river
Mula, and from the S. and W. advanced
the masses of the Peshwa’s army, amount-
ing to 8000 foot, 18,000 horse, and 14
guns,1 besides areserve of 5000 horse and
2000 foot with the Peshwa., at the sacred
1 Grant Dufl‘, v01. iii. p. 427.

hill of Parbati (see below). The canton-
ments at Poona and the Residency at
the Sangam (or meeting of the rivers)
hadbeen plundered and burnt on the 1st,
as soon as the English troops quitted
them. One regiment of Major Ford’s
brigade was at Dapuri, N. of Kirkee,
and the total stren th of the English,
even when it joine , was, according to
Grant Duff, but 2800 rank and file, of
which 800 were Europeans.
Gokla commanded the Peshwa’s
army, and its advance is compared by
Grant Dufi‘, who was an eye-witness,
to the rushing tide called the Bor in
the Gulf of Cambay. It swept all
before it, trampling down the hedges
and fields of standing corn which then
covered the plain. Colonel Burr, who
commanded the English, was now in'
formed that Major Ford was advanc-
ing with his regiment, the Peshwa's
own, from Dapuri on the W., to join
him; and in order to facilitate the
junction, he moved the main force to
a position about a mile in advance,
and to the S.W. of the village of
Kirkee. The Maratha leaders had been
tampering for some time with the regi-
ment that was moving from Dapuri,
and they fully expected it would come
over, as it was paid by the Peshwa.
A strong body of horse, therefore,
under Moro Dikshat, the prime minis-
ter of the Peshwa., advanced about 4
RM. upon the Dapuri battalion, but
Major Ford, throwing back his right
wing, opened a heavy fire upon the
Marathas, both of musketry and from
three small guns commanded by Captain
Thew. A good many Marathas fell,
and among them Moro Dikshat. In
the meantime, Gokla had organised
an attack on the left flank of the Eng-
lish main force, and this was led by a
regular battalion commanded by a
Portuguese named De Pento; and,
after his discomfiture, a select body of
6000 horse, with the Jari Patka, or
golden pennon, flying at their head,
charged the 7th N.I. as they were
pursuing De Pento’s men. Gokla’s
horse was wounded in this charge, and
his advance was stopped; but there
were other gallant leaders, such as
Naru Pant Apte and Mahadeo Rao


292 some 22.
I ndia
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
Rastia ; and it was well for the Sepoys
that a swamp in their front checked
the charge of the Marathas, whose
horsemen rolled headlong over one
another in the deep slough. As it was,
some cut their way through the Sepoy
battalion; but, instead of turning
back, when they might have destroyed
the regiment, they rode off to plunder
the village of Kirkee, whence they
were repulsed by a fire of grape. After
this charge, the Marathas drew ofi‘
with a total loss of about 500 men,
while that of the English was but 86.
On the 13th General Smith’s army
arrived from Sirur, and the Peshwa,
after a slight resistance, put his army
to full retreat. The most remarkable
point in the battle of Kirkee is, per-
haps, the extraordinary steadiness of
Major Ford’s regiment under great
temptation. In it were upwards of 70
Marathas, yet not a man deserted on
the day of battle, though promised
vast sums to join their countrymen.
After the action, the Marathas, but
only the Marathas, joined the enemy,
and many of them being subsequently
captured, their culpability, such as it
was, was very properly ignored, and
they were set free.
Kirkee is the headquarters of the
Bombay Artillery. it: In. NE. of the
barracks is the Small Arms Ammuni-
tion Factory, and to the N. are the
Powder Works (permission to enter
both must be obtained from the Com-
mandant of the Artillery).
Christ Church, Kirkee, in the Artil-
lery Lines, was consecrated in 1841.
There are two Colours of the 23d Regt.
Bombay N. I. inside the W. door.
Amongst the memorial tablets is one to
30 officers of the 14th King’s Light
Dragoons, who died or were killed
between 1841 and 1859; and another
to 90 non-commissioned officers of the
same regiment.
N.E. of the Artillery Mess is St.
Virwerit De Paul’s Roman Catholic
C'hapel.
One of the most interesting spots at
Kirkee, passed on the road to Poona,
is Holkar’s Bridge over the Mula' river,
a stream which skirts Kirkee to the
S. E. and N. The river is 200 yds.

broad at this spot. On the rt. of the
road is an old English cemetery, and,
on the 1., about 300 yds. to the N.,
is the New Burial Ground. After
crossing the Mula, the road passes on
the rt. the tomb of Khande Rao
Holkar, and on the l. are the Sappers’
and Miners’ Lines, and after them the
Deccan College and the lines of the
28th Pioneers, rt. Beyond these are
the Jamshidji Band, the Fitzgerald
Bridge, and the Band Gardens (for all
of which see below under Poona).
The Government House is at Ganesh
Khind, 11} m. S.W. of Kirkee rly. sta.,
and 3§ m. N.W. of the city of Poona.
It derives its name from a small khind
or pass between hills, about i m. S. E.
of the house, which resembles a modern
French chateau, and has a tall slim
tower, 80 ft. high, from the top of which
there is a fine view—Kirkee, with its
powder works, and the Deccan College,
and Parbati Hill to the S.E. The
house contains the usual reception
rooms, a ballroom, darbar-room, etc.,
and has a flower gallery or garden
corridor 90 ft. long. The woodwork of
the staircase is very beautiful.
119 m. POONAlk junc. sta. of the
G.I.P. and S. Maratha Rlys. (see Rte. 23).
The rly. sta. is conveniently situated
between the city and the cantonment,
and close to the most important public
ofi‘ices. Poona is the residence of the
Governor of Bombay during the rainy
season. It is the headquarters of the
Bombay army, and the ancient capital
of the Marathas. The pop. of Poona
is 160,460. The first mention we
have of Poona is in the Maratha annals
of 1599 A.D., when the parganahs
of Poona and Supa were made over to
Malaji Bhonsle (grandfather of Shivaji)
by the Nizam Shahi Government. In
1750 it became the Maratha capital
under Balaji Baji Rao. In 1763 it was
plundered and destroyed by Nizam 'Ali,
and here, on the 25th of October,
J eswant Rao Holkar defeated the com-
bined armies of the Peshwa and Sindia,
and captured all the guns, baggage,
and stores of the latter. The city
stands in a somewhat treeless plain on
the right of the Muta river, a little









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Small Arms and Ammunition Factory.
Grand Magazine.
Artillery Barracks and Stables.
Roman Catholic Church.
Bodyguard Lines.
Royal Connaught Boat Club.
Commissariat Lines.
Military Hospital.
Parbati Temples.
Sappers' and Mincrs' Lines.
. Poona Boat Club.
. Council Hall.
. Sassoon Hospital.
To face p. 292.


0 q 4
Shuduvgx. (2mg: [5:11 ~
. Bank.
. St. Paul‘s Church.
. Synagogue.
. Arsenal.
. Telegraph Office.
St. Mary's (Garrison) Church.
. Waterworks.
. Race-course.
. Roman Catholic Church.
. City Magistrate’s Court.
. Asylum.
. Jail.
. Parbati Tank.





ROUTE 22.
POONA 293
before it joins the Mula. At its ex-I
treme S. limit is the hill of Parbati,
so called from a celebrated temple to
the goddess Durga, or Parbati on its
summit (see below). A few m. to the
E. and N.E. are the hills which lead
up to the still higher tableland in the
direction of Satara. The station is
healthy and the climate pleasant. The
Aqueduct was built by one of the Rastias,
a family of great distinction amongst
the Marathas. There are also exten-
sive waterworks, constructed by Sir
J amshidji J ijibhai, which cost upwards
of £20,000. Of this sum the Parsi
baronet contributed £17,500.
The Assembly Rooms or Gymkhana
is a large building and contains a hand-
some ballroom, with a stage at one end
for theatricals ; and the United Service
Library, which possesses a good selec-
tion of books. In the grounds of the
building are lawn-tennis courts, a
covered Badminton court, and a good
cricket-ground.
Near the Assembly Rooms, on the
road to the Bund Gardens, is the Council
Hall, containing a few pictures of some
interest if not of high artistic merit,
amongst which are Sir B. Frere, Lady
Frere, Khan Bahadur Padamji Pestanji,
Khan Bahadur Naushirwanji, Lord
Napier of Magdala, Khan Bahadur
Pestanji Sorabji, Framji Patel, the
Crown Prince of Travancore, Sir Man-
galdas Nathubhai, Dr. Bhau Daji, the
Rajah of Kochin, Sir Salar Jang, the
Thakors of Bhaunagar and Morvi, and
Khande Rao Gaekwar.
St. Paul’s Church has four stained
glass windows at the E. end.
The Sassoon Hospital (nursed by the
Wantage sisters), in the Gothic style, is
at the end of the Arsenal Road. There
is accommodation for 150 patients of
all classes and nationalities.
Opposite the hospital are the Collec-
tor’s Cutcherry and the Government
Treasury. About 250 yds. S. of St.
Paul's Church is the Jews’ Synagogue,
a red-brick building with a tower 90 ft.
high, consecrated 29th September 1867.
David Sassoon’s tomb adjoins the syna-
gogue, which was built by him. The
mausoleum is 16 ft. sq. and 28 ft. high.

It is a drive of 11 m. to the S.E. pass-
ing the Arsenal to St. Mary’s Church,
consecrated by Bishop Heber in 1825.
Here are buried many officers of dis-
tinction, and the tablets on the walls
recall stirring incidents in the history
of India. The Font in the S.W. corner
of the church is surrounded by stained
glass windows.
E. of the Church are the General
Parade Ground and Race-course, the
latter included in the former, and
about 1 m. long. The races are gener-
ally run in September. Close to it are
the Gymnasium, St. Andrew's Church,
and the Masonic Lodge, and to the N.
are the Ghortpuri European Barracks.
To the S. are the Wanawr'l Barracks.
The Society of St. John the Evangelist
has a native Mission at Poona; the
mission-house is at Panch Howds,
Vetal Peit. There are schools for
boys of various classes, an Industrial
School, an Orphanage, and a School for
Catechists.
The Sisters of St. Mary the Virgin
(Wantage) have also their mission-house
at Panch Howds, and in the compound
the Epiphany School for high class
native girls, and St. Michael’s School
for low class girls. The sisters have
also under their charge St. Mary’s High
School for European and Eurasian girls
(self-supporting). A village school at
Parbeti 1 m. from Poona, and another
at Gerandaona a little farther ofi'.
The Sangam is the name given to
the tongue of land at the confluence
of the Muta river flowing from the S.
with the Mula river coming from the
N.W-; it is perhaps the most central
spot of the combined city and canton-
ments. Upon it are several temples,
and from it are pleasant views of the
river.
The Wellesley Bridge, 482 ft. long,
and 281} ft. broad, crosses the Muta
river to the Sangam promontory, close
to its confluence with the Mula. It
takes the place of a wooden bridge
erected to commemorate the victories
of the Duke of Wellington in India.
The present bridge, designed by Col.
A. U. H. Finch, R.E., cost 110,932 rs.,
and was opened in 187 5.
On the 1. hand, after crossing the
Wellesley Bridge, are the Poona Engra-


294 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
eering College, and E. of it the District
Court—the latter a long, low building
on the site of the Residency of the
British Agent, Mountstuart Elphin-
stone, at the time of the rupture with
the last Peshwa, Baji Rao. Mr.
Elpbinstone retired from it to Kirkee
before the battle, and the Marathas
plundered the building and pulled it
down. At the E. end of Wellesley
Bridge is a path to the left, which
leads down to a pretty garden with
several temples. The first has a tower
40 ft. high. The garden is filled with
fruit trees. In the middle of the garden
is a second temple, nearly as broad but
not so high. A third temple at the
end of the garden was built by Holkar,
who destroyed two old temples to build
it. All are dedicated to Mahadeo, and
though small, are extremely handsome.
At 300 yds. from the Engineering
College is Sir Albert Sassoon’s House,
called Garden Reach. It was built be-
tween 1862 and 1864, and cost £80,000.
The gardens are beautiful, and extend
along the banks of the river. The
rooms in the principal house are floored
with marble. The fine dining-room is
connected with the house by a long,
open gallery. Beside it is an open
room, with sides of carved wood, where
the family dine during the Feast of
Tabernacles. The ceiling of the drawing-
room is beautifully decorated by Poona
artists. In it is a full-length portrait
of David Sassoon, Sir Albert’s father,
who must have been strikingly hand-
some. A fountain in the garden and
the water-tower should be noticed.
Permission to view it would no doubt
be granted on application.
From this it is a pleasant drive of
1% m. to the Jamshidji Band and the
Fitzgerald Bridge. The Bunol is of stone
thrown across the Mula river, and on
the S. side of it are the pretty Bund
Gardens of six acres.
The view of the Fitzgerald Bridge
from the Bund is very pretty ; above it
is the broad stream, 350 yds. wide, on
which rowing matches take place,
chiefly in August. Farther along in
this direction, towards Kirkee (see
above), is the Deccan College, built
of gray trap-stone, in the Gothic style,

at a cost of 245,963 rs., of which half
was contributed by Sir Jamshidji
Jijibhai. It was designed by Cap-
tain H. C. Wilkins, R.E., and con-
sists of the central block two stories
high, with two wings, forming three
sides of a quadrangle, surmounted by
a high-pitched iron roof coloured red.
At the N. W. corner of the main block
is a tower 106 ft. high. The wings
are occupied by students, and the main
building contains class-rooms and
laboratory, with a large College Hall
70 ft. long above, containing the
Library.
For a native town the streets of the
City are wide, and some of the older
houses are substantial buildings and
extremely picturesque. It is divided
into seven quarters, named after the
days of the week in which the market
was held. Amongst the industries of
the town may be mentioned the mak-
ing of gold and silver thread and wire
for embroidery and for a simple kind
of jewellery, the stringing of beads and
berries for ornaments, and brasswork
of all kinds. In the Shanwar, or
Saturday division, are the remains of
the Peshwa’s Castle, called Junawada,
or “ old palace, " a large enclosure about
180 yds. sq. It was built by the
grandfather of the last Peshwa, and
was a grand buildin , till burnt down
in 1827. Only t e massive walls
remain.
In front is an open space where a
vegetable market is held. About 110
yds. to the N. is a stone bridge, over
which a road leads to the village of
Bamburda and the Sangam. The doors
are very large, and covered with iron
spikes. Above the gateway is a small
balcony supported on pillars. Here is
the terrace from which, in 1795, the
young Peshwa, Mhadn Rao, threw
himself, and died two days afterwards
of the injuries he received in the fall.
Here, too, in 1773, Narayan Rao, at
the age of eighteen, after he had been
but nine months Peshwa, was savagely
murdered by two of his guard.
Not far from this castle is a street
in which, under the Peshwas, offenders
were executed by being trampled to
death by elephants. One of the most


296 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS

ishing capture by the renowned Tanaji
Malusre, in February 1670: “Sinhgarh
is situated on the E. side of the great
Sahyadri range, near the point at which
the Purandar Hills branch off into the
Deccan. With these hills it communi-
cates only on the E. and W. by very high
narrow ridges, while on the S. and N.
it has the appearance of a rugged iso-
lated mountain, with an ascent of }
m., in many parts nearly perpendi-
cular. After arriving at this height
there is an immense craggy precipice
of black rock upwards of 40 ft.
high, and surmounting the whole is a
strong stone wall with towers. The
fort is of an irregular shape; the
exterior presents on all sides the
stupendous barrier already mentioned,
so that, except by the gates, entrance
seems impossible. From the summit,
when the atmosphere is clear, is seen
to the E. the narrow and beautiful
valley of the Nira; to the N. a great
plain, in the forepart of which Poona,
where Shivaji passed his youth, is a
conspicuous object. To the S. and W.
appear boundless masses of mountains
lost in the blue clouds, or mingled by
distance with the sky. In that quarter
lies Raigarh, from which place, directed
by Tanaji Malusre, the thousand Ma-
walis, prepared for the attempt on
Sinhgarh, set out by different paths,
known only to themselves, which led
them to unite near the fortress, accord-
ing to the words of the Maratha MS.,
‘on the ninth night of the dark half
of the moon, in the month Magh.’
Tanaji divided his men; one half re-
mained at a little distance, with orders
to advance if necessary, and the other
half lodged themselves undiscovered at
the foot of the rock. Choosing a part
most difficult of access, as being the
least liable to discovery, one of their
number mounted the rock and made
fast a ladder of ropes, by which they
ascended one by one and lay down as
they gained the inside. Scarce 300
had entered the fort when something
occasioned an alarm among the garri-
son that attracted their attention to the
quarter by which the Mawalis were
ascending. A man advanced to ascer-
tain what was the matter. A deadly

arrow from a bowman silently answered
his inquiries ; but a noise of voices and
a running to arms induced Tanaji to
push forward, in hopes of still surpris-
ing them. The bowmen plied their
arrows in the direction of the voices,
till a blaze of blue lights and a number
of torches kindled by the garrison
showed the Rajputs armed or arming,
and discovered their assailants. A
desperate conflict ensued. The Ma-
walis, thou h thus prematurely dis-
covered, an opposed by very superior
numbers, were gaining ground when
Tanaji Malusre fell. They then lost
confidence, and were running to the
place where they had escaladed; but
by that time the reserve, led by Tanaji’s
brother, Suryaji, had entered. On
learning what had happened, Suryaji
rallied the fugitives, asked ‘Who
amongst them would leave their father’s
(commander’s) remains to be tossed into
a pit by Mahars ‘2’ told them the ropes
were destroyed, and now was the time
to rove themselves Shivaji’s Mawalis.
This address, the loss of Tanaji, the
arrival of their companions, and the
presence of a leader, made them turn
with a resolution which nothing could
withstand. ‘Har ! Har! Maha Deo ! ’
their usual cry on desperate onsets,
resounded as they closed, and they
soon found themselves in possession of
the fort. Their total loss was esti-
mated at one-third their number, or
upwards of 300 killed or disabled. In
the morning 500 gallant Rajputs, to-
gether with their commander, were
ound dead or wounded ; a few had con-
cealed themselves and submitted; but
several hundreds had chosen the des-
perate alternative of venturing over
the rock, and many were dashed to
pieces in the attempt. The precon-
certed signal of success was setting on
fire a thatched house in the fort, a
joyful intimation to Shivaji."
On the 1st of March 1818 Sinh arh
was taken by the English without oss.
The garrison, 1100 men, of whom 400
were Arabs, capitulated, after being
shelled for three days, in which time
1400 shells and upwards of 2000 shot
were fired into the place. The ascent
to Sinhgarh is in part almost perpen-


ROUTE 22.
PURANDHAR 297
dicular. Being 4162 ft. above the sea,
it is delightfully cool, and the views
are beautiful. There are several bunga-
lows here usually occupied by Euro-
peans in summer.
The Journey—Leave Poona very
early, in order to reach Sinhgarh before
the heat becomes excessive. Parbati
will be reached in half an hour, and
horses are changed after the first hour.
Between the tenth and eleventh mile
the Lake of Khanlakwasla (or Lake Fife)
is reached. The word signifies “ stone
junction,” from Khadalc, “ a. rock," and
PVasla, “ ajunction." It is 8 m. long,
formed by a grand stone embankment,
1 m. long, thrown across a stream, and
supplies Poona with water and also two
irrigation canals. There is some
shooting about this spot. At the foot
of the Sinhgarh Mountain, 14 m., the
carriage is exchanged for a pony, or a
chair, in which the active people of
the locality will carry the traveller to
the summit of the mountain by a
zigzag path 2% m. long. After reaching
the scarp of the hill, you pass through
three gateways into the fort, the area
inside being about 40 acres. Not far
from the gateway are stables hewn out
of the solid rock, and used by the
Maratha freebooters in Shivaji’s time.
About :1 m. from the gateway to the E.
is a temple to Ram Rajah, and near it
are wells and a tank hewn out of the
solid rock.]
[Purandhar is a strong hill-fort to
the S.E., about 17 m. as the crow flies,
and 24 m from Poona. The upper and
lower forts are situated more than 300
ft. below the summit, which is 4560 ft.
above sea-level, and are protected by a
perpendicular scarp. In March 1818
Purandhar was attacked and taken by
the English column under General
Pritzla (Blacker’s Maratha War, p.
241). Purandhar is used as a con,
valescent depot for troops. There is a
DB. there. The sportsman may find
panthers in the hills, and deer and
other game in the neighbourhood]
167 m. Dhond junc. sta. (R.) From
this place the Dhond Munmar State
Railway runs N. joining the N.E.

branch of the G.I.P. Railway at the
latter place (see Rte. 1).
[The only place of importance on this
line is,51 m., Ahmednagar sta. (R.) D.B.
(pop. over 40,000), the third city of the
Deccan, covering 3 sq. m., on the l.
bankof the Siva, and founded in 1494
by Ahmad Nizam Shah Bahri, son of
a Brahman of Vijayanagar, the first
of a Mohammedan dynasty. His terri-
tory was the only part of the W. coast
to which the ravages of Portuguese
piracy did not extend. They main-
tained a friendly intercourse for many
years with Ahmednagar. The power
of that state extended over the greater
part of Bcrar and the province of Au-
rangabad and some districts in Khan-
desh, Kalyan, and from Bankot to
Bassein in the Konkan. The Fort fell
into Akbar’s hands in 1605, after sus-
taining a celebrated siege under Chand
Bibi, widow of ’Ali Adil Shah, of
Bijapur. (The “Noble Queen ” of
Meadows Taylor’s novel.) It was taken
from the Nizam by the Marathas in
1760, after desperate fighting. In 1797
the fort was made over to Sindia by
the Peshwa, from whom it was taken
by General Wellesley, afterwards Duke
of Wellington, on the 12th of August
1803. A tamarind tree, under which
the Duke of Wellington is said to have
lunched, is pointed out on the S.W.
side of the Fort.
The Fort is in the centre of the town,
2% m. N.E. of the rly. sta. Close to
it are Christ Church and a R. C.
Church. The European Barracks are
1 m. S.E. of it, and the N.I. Lines and
DE. are N. W. of it. The gate of the
Fort towards the Poona road is called
the Malle Darwazah ; and just outside
it are the graves of two British officers
who fell here when the place was
stormed in 1803. The town though
flourishing and with good bazaars has
now no architectural interest. Ahmed~
nagar is an important station of the
S.P.G., and of the Ladies’ Associa-
tion, with large schools and branch
missions in several villages in the dis-
trict. 2 m. from the Fort is the Faria
Bagh, or “fairy garden,” an old palace
of the Nagar kings, which has nothing


298 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
attractive beyond historical associa-
tions. _
The principal sight near Ahmednagar
is the Tomb of Salabat Khan or Chand
Bibi (for it is doubtful to which of
these two personages it belongs), 6 m.
to E. on a hill 3080 ft. The building
is octagonal, three stories high; fine
View. Below is the crypt, in which are
two tombs, one of which has a smaller
tombstone on the top of the other.
There is no inscription. The first
story is used as an infirmary. To the
E. by N. is a very large tank. T0 the
N. N. W. is Dongar Gan, 12 m. off,
where there is a bungalow, which was
a hunting-seat of the old kings, and is
now a place to which the English from
Nagar go for picnics]
184 m. Diksal sta. (R.), a small vil-
lage. 2 m. beyond Diksal the Bhima
river is crossed.
223 m. Kem sta., is a large and
flourishing village, the largest place
between Poona and Sholapur.
234 m. Barsi Road sta. This is the
station from which, in the rains,
travellers who intend to visit Pandhar-
pur turn 011' to the S. (30 m. by road).
In dry weather they will proceed to
264 m. Mohal, only 24 m. from
Pandharpur.
[Pandharpur (pop. 17,000) on the
right bank of the Bhima river, where
is a very celebrated shrine to Witthoba,
0r Withthal. The temple is said to
have been built in 80 A.D., and was
rented by certain Brahmans till 1081,
then by Badwars, who still take charge
of it. The first chamber in the temple
is a room 40 ft. sq. with pillars, and
without windows and ventilation. The
second pillar on the left is covered with
silver plates, and pilgrims embrace it.
The idol chamber is 8 ft. sq., and the
idol is very grotesque, and wears a high
cap. Immense crowds of pilgrims visit
this temple at certain times, particu-
larly in July and October, and suffer
greatly from the crush and the want of
ventilation. The scene on the Bhima

river at the time of the pilgrimage is
most animated and interesting. 28 In.
E. is the beautiful unfinished temple
at Vijayanagar (Rte. 26), said to have
been built for the reception of this
idol, which however, refused to move.
The legend is that a Brahman named
Pandelli, going on a pilgrimage to
Benares, neglected his parents and
stopped in a Brahman’s house at
Pandharpur, and saw Gangs, Yamuna,
and Saraswati acting as handmaids to
his host on account of his filial piety.
Pandelli then gave up his pilgrimage
to Benares, stopped at Pandharpur,
and treated his parents with great
respect and honour, whereupon Vishnu
became incarnate in him as Wit-
thoba.]
283 m. Sholapur sta. (R.), (pop.
62,000), the capital of a collectorate, and
protected by a strong fort. The D.B.
is 350 yds. E. of the station, and the
Fort is 1% m. N.W. of it, and is built
on level ground, with a very slight
fall to the N. The ramparts are of
mud, with afausse-bmie. The outer
wall has battlemented curtains and 4
inner and 23 side towers. There is a
moat on N.W. and S. sides. The Tank
of Sadeshwa is to the E. The first gate
is called the Khata Darwazah or Spike
Gate, from the iron spikes on the huge
massive wooden doors. They are to keep
off elephants, which used to be trained
to break in gates by pushing with their
foreheads. It has an uninteresting
Persian inscription, with a date corre-
sponding to 1810 A.D. In the revetp
ments are many stones taken from
Hindu temples, on which figures of
Vishnu, Mahadeo, and of elephants and
peacocks are seen.
There is in the city, which lies N.
and E. of the Fort, a good High School
for boys, and a school for girls, which
may be visited by those interested in
educational matters. The cantonment
lay S.E. of the station, and there was
once a strong force here, but the troops
have been withdrawn. In April 1818
General Munro marched against a body
of Baji Rao’s infantry, 4500 in number,
with 13 guns, attacked them under the
walls of Sholapur, and routed them


ROUTE 22.
299
HOTGI—KALBARGA
with great slaughter. The Fort, after
a short siege, surrendered (Grant Dufl',
vol. iii. p. 484). There is a fine cotton-
mill at Sholapur, near the Police Station
and the Railway.
At about 3 m. N. of the city of
Sholapur is the Ekrukh Tank, 6 m.
in length, formed by a modern embank-
ment of earth and rough stones 1% m.
long which has been carried across the
Adhin river. Three canals irrigate
the surrounding country. The High-
level Canal on the left bank waters 863
acres. The Low-level Canal from the
left bank waters 10,601 acres. The
vHigh-level waters 567 acres. The
greatest height of the embankment is
72% ft., and the greatest depth of water
60 ft. But for this lake, the whole
district near, and even the city of
Sholapur itself, must have been
deserted during the late famine.
These W'atcrwo'rks were built in 1881,
at a cost of 21 lakhs of ru ees, by the
Municipality, and give a (a.in supply
of 6 gallons a head.
Mali Bagh Tank is prettily situated
close to the rly. crossing on the Bija-
pur road, and fringed on three sides by
a magnificent growth. of babhut trees.
A very pleasant row or sail can be had
in the boats (2) belonging to the
Sholapur club ; and the spot afl‘ords a
pleasant retreat on a sultry evening.
292 m. Hotgijunc. sta. (R.), 9 m. S.E.
of Sholapur, the capital of the Deccan
from 1347 to 1442, a place of great size
and importance, adorned with several
fine buildings, the most remarkable
being the celebrated mosque. From
this point the East Deccan Railway
runs S. to Biiapur and Gadag junc.
(see Rte. 24). -
353 m. Kalbarga. sta., DE. The
place was abandoned as the seat of the
Deccan Government in 1635 in favour
of Bedar. It is situated in an undulat-
ing plain, a somewhat dreary expanse
of black soil, relieved by outcrops of
limestone and thriving young planta-
tions of trees. Houses for the Nizarn’s
officers, who command the troops here,
and handsome buildings for a few
public offices are erected on the Maidan,

which stretches away from the railway
station to the city. The Old Fort in
the background, black with age, and
the numerous domes with which the
plain is dotted, also help to relieve
the generally monotonous aspect. The
first object which attracts attention is
a large domed tomb, the sepulchre of
one of the former rulers of the place,
but now used as a Residence by the
Executive Engineer. A fine public
garden is then passed ; and nearer the
town, new buildings on all sides bear
testimony to the reviving prosperity
of the place. The town is entered by
a handsome gateway.
The outer walls and gateways and
most of the old buildings of the Fort
are in a very dilapidated condition.
The Citadel or Bala Hisar has suffered
least. On the top of it is a curious old
gun, 26 ft. long, and having twenty
pairs of iron rings attached to it, by
which it used probably to be slung or
lifted. Close by is an old Hindu
temple which has been converted into
a mosque.
In the old Fort is the J umma. Musjid,
one of the finest old Pathan mosques
in India, built in the reign of Feroz
Shah, and modelled after the great
mosque of Cordova in Spain. Accord-
ing to Fergusson, it measures 216 ft. E.
and W., and 176 ft. N. and S., and
consequently covers an area of 38,016
sq. ft. Its great peculiarity is that
alone of all the great mosques of India
the whole area is covered in. There is
therefore no court, and the solid roof
affords protection from the sun to all
worshippers, while the light is admitted
through the side walls, which are
pierced with great arches on all sides
except the W. This arrangement is
so good both for convenience and
architectural effect that it is difficult
to understand why it was never after-
wards repeated. It stands in seemingly
good repair after four centuries of
neglect, and owes its greatness solely
to its own original merit of design.
The Jail is the model institution of
the sort for H.H. the Nizam’s Do-
minions. It is said to be exceedingly
well managed and to be worth a visit.
The Talukdar's Court, the Jud'lvml


300 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
Ofices, and the Treasury of Kalbarga
are located in the grand old Tombs in
the eastern quarter of the town. These
tombs are huge square buildings sur-
mounted by domes, and are the burial-
places of the kings who reigned here at
the end of the 14th century. They
are roughly yet strongly built, and,
with the exception of some handsome
stone tracery, which has unfortunately
been whitewashed, none of them con-
tain exterior ornaments of any kind.
The interiors are more elaborately
finished.
Some little distance from these
tombs is the shrine or Dargah of Banola
Nawaz, or Gisu Daraz, a celebrated
Mohammedan saint (of the Chisti
family), who came to Kalbarga during
the reign of Feroz Shah in 1413.
The present structure is said to have
been erected in 1640 by one of his
descendants during the reign of Mah-
mud ’Adil Shah. Shah Wali, Feroz
Shah’s brother, made many valuable
presents to the saiad, and gave him
large jagirs, and built him a magnifi-
cent college close to the city. Some of
his descendants still reside at his tomb.
The shrine is much venerated by Mo-
hammedans in this part of India, and
none but true believers are admitted
inside its portals. Close by are some
buildings, consisting of a sarai, mosque,
and college (Madrassa), said to have
been erected by Aurangzib, who visited
Kalbarga on several occasions. Some
distance from the tomb of Banda Nawaz
is the Shrine of Rukunu-d-din another
Mohammedan saint, who resided here
at the same time as Banda Nawaz ; be-
yond this again is the Shrine of Siraju-
d-olin, who preceded the other saints at
the court of the Bahmani kings. An-
other remarkable tomb is the Ghor
Gumbaz (“thief's dome ”), W. of the
city, which is said to have derived its
name from having been for many years
the haunt of a robber, who used to
deposit all his plunder here.
In the town is a Bazaar 370 ft. X 60
ft., adorned by a row of 61 Hindu
arches, with a very ornamental block of
buildings at either end.
370 m. Shahabad sta. (R.) Known

for its limestone quarries. Large
quantities of the stone are exported.
376 m. Wadi junc. sta. (R.) From
here the Nizam’s State Railway runs E.
to Haidarabad (see Rte. 25). Passengers
for the Nizam’s railway change car-
riages. There is here a rest-camp for
troops en route between the Madras
Presidency and Bombay.
385 in. Nalwar sta. The shooting
in this neighbourhood is said to be
good both for large and small game.
427 m. Krishna sta. Here the rail-
way crosses the Krishna river by a
grand bridge 3854 ft. long.
443 m. Raichur sta. (R.) At this
point the Great Indian Peninsula Rail-
way and the Madras Railway meet.
Madras is distant 350 m.
Raichur formed part of the dominions
of the Bahmani kings in 1357. It was
included in the government of Bijapur
(see Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 65), and was
governed in 1478 by Khwajah Jehan
Gawan. When Bijapur became an in-
dependent kingdom, Raichur was its
S. capital. The Fort is about 11} m.
from the railway station. The N. gate,
flanked by towers, is best worth atten-
tion. There is a stone elephant not
quite the natural size carved out of a
boulder about 50 yds. outside the gate,
At right angles to this gate is another
called the Kasbah Darwazah. Outside
this gate is the door of a tunnel out of
which the garrison came to close the
gate, and then retired by the under-
ground passage into the Fort. The
W. gate is called the Sikandariyah,
and near it is the old palace, with
immensely thick walls, now a jail.
The Citadel ought to be seen for the
sake of the fine view, extending as far
as the Tungabhadra river, 16 m. to the
S., and the Krishna, 12 m. to the N.
The ascent commences from near the
N. gate. The hill on which it is built
consists of immense boulders of rock,
and is over 290 ft. high. The path up
is broken and unsafe after dark. On
the left is a row of cells belonging to
the olargah, or shrine, and at the E.
end, overhanging the precipice, is a


302 ROUTE 22.
India
BOMBAY TO MADRAS
along which at intervals are three
gopuras, or gateways, under which the
pilgrims pass. The last gopura is at
the top of the hill. On the other side
of the hill there are paths up, but all
very diflicult. For some years the
temple was under the management of
the British Government, but in 1843
charge of it was given over to a Mahant
or Hindu Abbot, who with his co-
authorities controls the expenditure
and the worship. The antiquity of
the temple is indisputable, but its
origin is involved in obscurity. The
idol is an erect stone figure 7 ft. high,
with four arms, representing Vishnu.
No European ascended the hill on
which is Upper Tirupati, that is the
temple and its suburbs, till 1870, when
the Superintendent of Police, in spite
of the remonstrances of the Mahant,
went up in search of an escaped forger.
It is 2500 ft. high, and quite bare and
without vegetation. The N. ascent
on the Cuddapah side is from the small
village of Balapilli, over hills and
through thick jungle, where tigers
and anthers are not unknown. The
hill has seven peaks. On the seventh
peak, Shri Venkataramanachellam, is
the pagoda. A broad belt of mango,
tamarind, and sandal trees surrounds
the temple. There is a decent bunga-
low built on the top of the mountain
for lodging European visitors. In the
town is a dispensary, in part supported
by the Mahant. Idols are very well
carved in the town, of brass, or of red
wood—the Ptcrocamms santalinus. E.
of the temple is a tank. There is also
a Hall of 1000 Pillars, which cannot
compare with that at Madura, or those

at Chedambaram or Conjeveram. There
are sixteen waterfalls in various parts
of the hill. It is said that Abbé
Dubois was the first to visit the hill,
but he probably did not ascend it.
In Lower 'I'irupati are several
temples, but “the wonders of the
place are two gopuras belonging to a
now deserted temple on the banks of
the river,” one unfinished. The per-
pendicular part, contrary to custom,
“is covered with the most elaborate
sculpture, cut with exquisite sharpness
and precision and perhaps in better
taste than anything else in this style”
(Fergusson).
14 m. Chandragiri sta. In the palace
here the representatives of the Vijayan-
agar dynasty of the day (1639) made to
the EL Co. the original grant of the
land on which Fort St. George (Madras)
was built. The Government carefully
preserve the palace, and it is used as a
alting-placc for officials. It is most
picturesquer situated in the Fort, and
at the back of it is a high rocky hill.
After the defeat of Talikot in 1564 this
was the residence of the Rajahs of
Vijayanagar.
78 m. Vellore sta. (Rte. 29).
272 m. Villupuram sta. (Rte. 31).]
From Renigunta sta. the line con-
tinues S. E. to
308 m. Arkonamjunc. sta. (R.) (42
m. from Madras). The N.W. and S. W.
branches of the Madras Railway join at
this point, and a branch of the South
Indian Railway runs S. to Chingleput.


WAT). 'r/Iz why



..=| ,I.


.' andnorthwa y
K of 250 m. to the French, th‘
" The citya 9 m. cyclone, in which ‘
\ along the c if 27 Phwnia‘, and Lys ii
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1891, 450.0 and Advice, prizes.


MADRAS CITY
303
MADRAS CITY *
CONTENTS.
PAGE [ PAGE
Agriculture, College of . . . 309 Civil Engineering Colle 306
Arsenal . . . . . 305 Medical College . . 306
Black Town . . . 304 Old College . . . . . 308
Board of Revenue Offices 306 Pacheappah’s College and Hall . 305
Botanical Gardens . . . 308 School of Arts . . . . 806
Cathedrals—Roman Catholic . 308 Teachers’ College . . . . 309
St. George’s . . . . 307 Victoria Technical Institute . 308
St. Theme (Roman Catholic) 307 Jail . . . . . . . 305
Central Railway Station . . 309 Landing-place . . 303
Chepank Park and Buildings . 306 Lighthouse 304
Churches— Little Mount . 809
Armenian . . . 308 Marina (Promenade) 307
,, (Great Mount) 810 Mannalong Bridge . 309
Church Mission Chapel 308 Medical College 306
Emanuel . . . . . 308 Memorial Hall . . . 306
English Church (Great Mount) 309 Museum (Arsenal) . . 305
St. Andrew’s . . . 307 ,, (Pantheon Road) 303
St Mary's . . . 307 Observatory . . . 808
St. Matthias' (Vepery) . 308 Old College . . . . 308
St. Thomé . . . 307 Pacheappah's College and Hall 305
Wesleyan Chapel . . 308 People‘s Park . . . . 308
Civil Engineering College 306 Promenade or Marina 307
Climate . . . . 804 Race-course . . 309
Connemara Free Library . 308 Saidapet Model Farm 309
Fort St. George . 304 School of Arts . . 306
General Hospital . . 305 Senate House . 306
Governor’s Country Hous 309 Sport . 310
Government House . 306 Statues 306, 307
Great Mount . . 309 Suburbs . 309
Gun-carriage Factory 308 Triplicane . . . 307
Harbour Works . 304 Veterinary Hospital (Govt.) 309
High Court Buildings . . 304 Victoria Technical Institute . 308
Institutions, Educational, etc.- Victoria Town Hall . . . . . . 808
Agriculture, College of
ON the first appearance of the build-
ings of Madras City from the sea, the
stranger must feel surprised how so
great a capital should have grown up
on such an exposed coast, with appar-
ently so little convenience for trade.
But the whole line of coast, from Ceylon
to Orissa, has not one convenient
harbour. Although Madras has no
great river near it to bring down pro-
ducts from inland regions, it has a
substitute in a long series of canals, the
line of which passes through the town
southward to the South Arcot District,
and northward to the Godavari, a length
of 250 m.
The city and its suburbs extend 9 m.
along the coast, covering an area of 27
sq. in. Pop. in 1881, 406,000; in
1891, 450,000.

Landing-place. —Passengers and
cargo used to be landed or embarked in
masula boats, which are flat-bottomed
barges constructed of mango wood,
and sewn together with cocoa-nut fibre;
The landing charges are for nlasula'”
boats 2'8 rs., jolly boats 1 r.; but now
steamers generally enter the harbour,
and passengers land without difficulty
at the Pier, which is 1000 ft. long, and
40 ft. wide, with a T head. The Madras
coast is frequently visited by cyclonic
storms, sometimes of terrific violence.
On the 3d of October 1746, twenty-
three days after the surrender of Madras
to the French, there was a dreadful
cyclone, in which the Due d’Orleans,
Phwnix, and Lys foundered with up-
wards of 1200 men. The Mermaid
and Adme, prizes, also went down;


304
MADRAS CITY
and the flagship Achille was dismasted,
and saved with difficulty, after the
lower guns had been thrown overboard.
There were twenty other vessels in the
Madras roads during the storm, and not
one escaped. There have been other
frightful hurricanes in 1782, 1807, and
1811. On the latter occasion the Dover
frigate and Chichesler store-ship found-
ered, and ninety coasting vessels went
down at their anchors. During this
hurricane the surf broke at 4 m.
distance from the shore. On the 2d
of May 1872 there was another great
storm, in which the Hot-spur and eight
European vessels and twenty native
vessels of altogether 4133 tons were lost.
The shore is sandy, stretching in nearly
a straight line from N. by E. to S.
by W. for many miles, and there is no
creek or bay or other natural facility
for forming a harbour. It was proved
during the great cyclone of 1881 that
no harbour here can ever be regarded
as a harbour of refuge, and consequently
ships are now ordered to put out to sea
at the first indication of a cyclone.
But a scheme of docks to be constructed
on the south foreshore, with the har-
bour forming the entrance, is under
consideration. The sand along the
coast is unusually flat seawards, reach-
ing a depth of 10 fathoms only at a
distance of 1 m. from the shore, and to
this may be partly attributed the pecu-
liarity of the Madras surf.
The winds are called monsoons (from
the Arabic mausim, “a season").
That from the S.W. blows from April
to October, and that from the N.E.
from October to April. The S.W.
monsoon breezes are for the most part
light. The N .E. monsoon brings the
rainy season on the east coast, which
is from October to December. The S.W.
monsoon rains fall on the east coast
from the end of May to the middle of
October. The average rainfall at
Madras is 50 in., nearly half of which
falls in November.
November, December, and January
are comparatively cool, but there is no
really cold weather in the plains in
Madras. The rise of tide does not ex-
ceed 3 to 4 ft., even at equinoctial
springs. A current, averaging two

knots, runs from S. by W. to N. by E.
parallel to the shore during the S.W.
monsoon, and in thecontrary direction
during the N.E. monsoon.
0n the occasion of H.H..H. the Prince
of Wales‘s visit in 1875, a memorial
stone was laid commemorating the com-
mencement of the harbour works, de-
signed by W. Parkes, M.I.C.E.,~ whohad
constructed the Karachi harbour. The
works were nearly complete, at a cost of
5,800,000 rs., when in November 1881
a violent cyclone occurred which seri-
ously injured them, and breached about
§ m. of breakwater out of a total of 1%
m. After much discussion, an amended
design was approved by Sir J. Hawk-
shaw, Sir J. Coode, and Prof. Stokes,
and the works which now exist were
commenced in 1884, and, it is hoped,
will be completed in 1892. The bar-
bour consists of two breakwaters to the
N. and S. of the Custom House, en-
closing the pier, which runs out from
the Custom House. The Post Office,
the old High Court, and some houses
of business extend along the shore
facing the harbour. W. of these is a
thickly inhabited quarter chiefly in-
habited by natives, and known as
Black Town. In it is Popham’s Broad-
way, a long thoroughfare containing
several large shops, the Bank of Madras,
and churches.
The Lighthouse stands on the
esplanade, close to the N. face of the
Fort, and the light (a flashing one) is
128 ft. above sea-level. The duration
of the flash to that of the dark interval
is as 2 to 3, and it was first shown on
the 1st of January 1841. It is visible
from a ship‘s deck 15 m. at sea. The
new High Court buildings have been
erected (from the designs of Mr. Bras-
sington) beside it, and it has been
decided to pull down the lighthouse
and place the light on a tower of the
High Court.
Fort St. George contains the Euro-
pean barracks, the Arsenal, St. Mary's
Church, and some of the Government
Offices. It was designed by Mr.
Robins, mathematical professor at wool-
wich, who was made commander-m-


THE GRAND ARSENAL
305
E
chief at Madras. The eastern face
of the Fort is close to the sea, with
only the broad road between. The E.
face is straight, but the western face
landward is in the form of a crescent,
well protected by cross-fire from
different bastions, and surrounded by a
deep fosse, crossed by a drawbridge.
The Fort is not without its historic
recollections. Here, on the 10th of
September 1746, M. de la Bourdonnais
received in the name of the French
king the surrendered keys, which were
restored to the English by the Treaty
of Aix-la-Chapelle. On the 14th of
December 1758 the French arrived
before it under the command of M.
Lally, but retreated on the 16th of
February 1759, leaving behind them
fifty-two cannon and marry of their
wounded. The French made their
approach on the N. side, and their
principal battery, called Lally’s, must
have been near where the house of
Parry and Go. now stands, as it was
close to the beach, and about 580 yds.
N. of the Fort. Another battery was
at the native cemetery in Black Town,
and a third about 400 yds. to the S.W.
In April 1769, while the English forces
were far away, Haidar ’Ali made his
appearance with his cavalry, and die-
tated to the Governor the terms on
which he would spare the dcfenceless
territory. Again, on the 10th of August
1780, and once more in January 1792,
the garrison were alarmed by the ap-
pearance of the Mysore cavalry. Here
in Writer’s Buildings, Clive twice
snapped a pistol at his own head.
From this Fort he marched to his
first victories, and from it went the
army which, on the 4th of May 1799,
killed Tipu and captured Seringapatam.
The Accountant-General’s Office in the
Fort was formerly the Government
House. On the ground-floor are the
voluminous Records.
The Grand Arsenal forms a long
paraklelogram on the first floor. In it
is t e Museum, containing amongst
other objects: four cornets, or flags,
belonging to the let and 2d Regiments
of Madras Cavalry—the oldest flags
taken from the Dutch and French are
[India]

sewn u in covers, to protect them
from t e squirrels, which have de-
stroyed many, using them to make
their nests ;—two iron helmets taken at
Manilha (sic) in 1762, one weighing 10
lbs., the other 14 lbs. There is also
a very curious brass mortar from Kur-
nool, shaped like a tiger sitting with
legs planted almost straight out. Also
a handsome gun taken from Jeswant
Rao Holkar, with his name and the
date, 1218 A.H.=l.803 A.D.; the cage
in which Captain P. Anstruther, R.A.,
was kept prisoner in China for seven
months; a very fine bronze bell
taken by Major M‘Intyre at Ching
Kang Foo; the colours taken at the
capture of Sadras in 1780, and from
the French at Pulicat in 1781; the
Dutch colours taken at Amboyna in
1810; tiger-headed guns taken at
Seringapatam in 1792; a wall-piece,
which belonged to the Nawab of the
Carnatic, the barrel of which is 12 ft.
long; the six keys of Pondicherry,
taken in 1778; a bifurcate projectile,
which, after issuing from the cannon,
opens out like a double-bladed sword
to the length of 5 ft. 10 in. ; a wall-
piece brought from Bellary, the barrel
of which is 15 ft. long, though the
bore is only 1% in.; leather petards
with straps to fasten them to a gate.
Across the esplanade W. of the Fort
are Pacheappah's College and Hall.
The latter is of Greek Ionic architecture,
and of noble proportions. Both build-
ings owe their erection to Pacheappah
Mudelliar, a wealthy and benevolent
Hindu gentleman who, dying a hun-
dred years ago when education was
almost unknown in Madras, endowed
various religious institutions and pri-
vate charities with no less than a lakh
of pagodas.
The Jail or Penitentiary is i in. W.
of the Fort.
The General Hospital is opposite the
Central R1 . sta. The records 0 back
to 1829. r. Mortimer publis ed an
account of it in 1838. On the E. side
is the military part of the hospital
and a large detached building accom-
X


PROMENADE BY THE SEA-SHORE
307
by Mr. Chisholm. It was begun in
1874 and completed in 1879 at a cost of
289,000 rs. Close to the S. entrance,
facing Chepauk palace, will be seen the
Jubilee statue of the Queen Empress, a
replica of the Boehm statue at Windsor,
presented to the city by Rajah Gaja-
patee Row of Vizagapatam. 1 m. S. W.
of the Senate House is Triplicarw, a
crowded district containing the palace
where the Prince of Arcot resides, and
a famous Mohammedan mosque and
Hindu temple.
The Promenade by the Sea-shore. —
The Marina, the fashionable drive and
promenade at Madras, is by the sea-
shore, from the southern extremity of
the Fort southward over the Napier
Bridge, and past the Senate House, the
Revenue Board Office, the Civil Engin-
eering College, the D. P.W. offices, the
Presidency College, as far as the Capper
House Hotel. Thence Cathedral Road
runs nearly due W. about 2 m. to St.
George’s Cathedral, the Mount Road,
and the suburb of Adyar. A great part
of these roads is overhung by mighty
banian trees, forming a tunnel through
which one drives in agreeable coolness
even when the sun is hot.
General Neil’s Statue opposite the
entrance to the Club. At the base is
a fine alto-relievo of a battle, with
Highlanders and guns, and at the back
is, “Erected by public subscription,
1860." On the other two sides are the
names of the non-commissioned officers
and men who fell in the actions in
which Neil was engaged. There is
also an inscription recording his death
at Lucknow.
CHURCHES.
The Cathedral (St. George’s) stands
1. in an enclosure, alittle beyond Neil’s
statue along the Mount Road. The
exterior is not handsome, but the
dazzling white chunam and the very
numerous and remarkably handsome
tablets and tombs, and the lofty
and massive pillars in the interior,
produce a very pleasing impression.
At the E. end of the N. aisle is a fine
monument to the Right Rev. Daniel

Corrie, LL.D., first Bishop of Madras.
The monument to Bishop Reginald
Heber, who died in 1826, is on the N.
wall of the N. aisle, and represents
him confirming two natives. Notice
too the monument to Major George
Broadfoot, C.B., who was one of the
illustrious garrison of Jellalabad.
St. Mary’s Church, in the Fort,
built 1678-1680, was the first English
church built in India: it stands N.
and S. Sir Thos. Munro, Lord Hobart,
and other distinguished persons are
buried here. There is some interesting
sacramental plate dated 1698. The
most remarkable monument is one of
white marble reared by the EL Co. to
the famous missionary Schwartz. He
is represented dying on his bed sur-
rounded by a group of friends, with an
an el appearing in the clouds and
ho ding up a cross to his view.
On the N. side of the square, in the
Fort, is a statue of Lord Cornwallis
under a stone canopy, on the pedestal
of which is sculptured the surrender of
Tipu's two sons in 1792. This statue
is by Chantrey, and was erected in 1800
at the joint expense of the principal
inhabitants of Madras.
St. Andrew's, the Scotch Church, is
on the Punamali Road, opposite the
SI. Railway Station, Egmore, built
1818-20, cost £20,000, the architect
being Major de Havilland. The
Madras stucco, or chunam, in the
interior gives to the pillars all the
whiteness and polish of the finest
marble. The steeple rises to the height
of 166 ft., and the building is remark-
able for the complete substitution of
masonry for timber, which might be
destroyed by white ants.
At St. Thomé, rather more than 2
In. due S. of the Fort, there is a small
but pretty church situated on the top
of a sand dune within a few yards of
the sea.
St. Thomé, Roman Catholic Cathe-
dral, a short distance N., is an old
structure, and has the reputation of
being built over the earthly remains of
ISt. Thomas. On the S. side, beneath


SUBURBS
309
now used as the office of the Director
of Public Instruction.
The very extensive library of the
Literary Society, a branch of the
{oyal Asiatic Society, is here. The
Mackenzie MSS., in upwards of 60
gigantic volumes, may be noticed,
containing a mass of historical and
legendary lore respecting the S. of
India. There is also a portrait of the
well-known French missionary, the
Abbé Dubois, dressed as a native of
India. He spent 25 years in Mysore.
The Central Railway Station is one
of the finest stations in India, but
excessively hot, as the breeze is com-
pletely shut out.
Susumss.
On the way to Guindy, the Race
course, and the other southern suburbs
is Marmalong Bridge (said to be
Mamillamrna, “ Our Lady of the Man-
goes”) spanning the Adyar river. It
has 29 arches. Near the N. end is a
square building, 14 ft. high, and an
inscription in English, Latin, and
Persian, which says that the expenses
of the bridge were defrayed from a
legacy left for the purpose by Adrian
Fourbeck, a merchant of Madras.
The Little Mount.—Thiscurious spot
is about 5 In. S. W. of the Fort. It is
on a rocky eminence on 1. after crossing
Marmalong Bridge. A flight of steps
leads to the Church. On the l. is a
litter in which they carry the effigy of
the Virgin. On the left of the entrance
is a portrait of St. Thomas, with an
old Portuguese inscriition. Descend-
ing some steps on the left, a slo e leads
down to a cavern hewn out of t e solid
rock. It is necessary to stoop very low
to enter the cave, and there is nothing
to see but a narrow aperture which lets
in the daylight ; and through this
fissure they tell you St. Thomas escaped
the Indians who wished to sla him.
In the vestry-room is a Missa with
the date 1793. The show a dark cell
full of bats, said to he the oldest part
of the church, where St. Thomas
himself worshipped. To the W. is a

hole in the rock in which is a little
water, said to have been miraculously
produced by him. This is called the
Fountain. Outside are some rocks
said to be marked with the feet, knees,
and hands of St. Thomas.
The College of A griculture, the Saida-
pet Model Farm, the Teachers" College,
and the Government Veterinary Hospi—
tal will be observed on the Madras
side of the river, east of the Mount
Road. The Model Farm is not now
fully cultivated. Its situation turned
out to be ill chosen on sandy unpro-
ductive soil, and it is now simply used
for practical demonstrations to the
students of the College of Agriculture.
The Governor's Country House at
Guindy, about 5 m. from Government
House. The house has a very hand-
some appearance, being faced with the
beautiful white chunam for which
Madras is so famous. The centre room,
which is used as a ball-room, contains
a good bust of Wellington. The
flower-garden lies to the S., and is 8‘}
acres in extent, and there are detached
bungalows for the staff.
The Race-course, close to Government
House, Guindy, is 1% m. long. To the
N. you see the Great Mount and Pala-
veram, a double hill about 500 ft. high,
with a long, low range extending from
it. The races take place in the cold
weather. In the course is an obelisk
to Major Donald Mackey, who died in
1783. .
8t. Thomas’s Mount, or Great Mount
(rly. sta. 1 m. distant), is 7 In. from
the Fort, and about 3 m. from Marma-
long Bridge to the S.W. At the base
of the' Mount are the Cantonment and
the building which used to be the head-
quarters of the Madras Artillery : the
mess-rooms are said to be the finest in
India. There are good reading-rooms
and a valuable library. In the dining-
room are some interesting portraits.
The English Church is a few hundred
yards from the mess-house. It is a
handsome building, with a well-pro-
portioned steeple. The register of the
church goes back to 1804. There
are monuments here to several dis-
tinguishcd officers.


TRIVALUR 3 1 1
aFn
‘32'1395.
The following is from Fergusson’s
History of Indian Architecture :—~“ The







Plan of Inner Temple of Trivalur.
temple of Trivalur contrasts curiously
with that at Tanjore in the principles
measures 192 ft. X 156 ft. over all,
and has one gopura in front. So far,
there is nothing to distinguish it from
the ordinary temples found in every
village. It, however, at some subse-
quent period became sacred or rich,
and a second or outer court was added,
measuring 470 ft. each way, with two
gopuras, higher than the original one,
and containing within its walls num-
berless little shrines and porches.
Additions were again made at some
subsequent date, the whole being
enclosed in a court 940 ft. x701 ft.—
this time with five gopuras, and several

important shrines. When the last



Bird's-eye View, Temple of Trivalur. _
on which it was designed, and serves
to exemplify the mode in which, un-
fortunately, most Dravidian temples
were aggregated.
“The nucleus here was a small
village temple. It is a double shrine,
dedicated to Shiva and his consort,
standing in a cloistered court which

addition was made, it was intended to
endow the temple with one of those
great halls which were considered
indispensable in temples of the first
class. Generally they had, or were
intended to have, 1000 columns; this
one has only 688, and only about one
half of these carry beams of any sort.


312 ROUTE 23.
I oldia
POONA TO GOA
There can, however, be very little doubt
that, had time and money been avail-
able, it would have been completed to
the typical extent. As it is, it is prob-
ably owing to our management of the
revenues of the country that the
requisite funds were not forthcoming,
and the buildings stopped probably
within the limits of the present cen-
tury.
“The general effect of such a design
as this may be gathered from the bird's-
eye view (woodcut, preceding page). As
an artistic design, nothing can be worse.
The gateways irregularly spaced in a
great blank wall lose half their dignity
from their positions; and the bathos
of their decreasing in size and elabora-
tion as they approach the sanctuary
is a mistake which nothing can redeem,
We may admire beauty of detail, and
be astonished at the elaboration and
evidence of labour, if they are found
in such a temple as this, but as an
architectural design it is altogether
detestable."
ROUTE 23
Poozu T0 MAHABALESHWAR,
KOLHAPUR, BELGAUM, AND GOA
Poona (see Rte. 22), the Southern
Maratha Railway branches S. from the
G.I.P. 2 m. E. of the station. Passing
through three hill ranges, reaches
68 m. Wathar sta. at: (It)
[Passengers leave the train here for
Mahabaleshwar, the principal hill-
station of the Bombay Presidency,
about 40 in. distant by road to the W.
Carria es and tongas can be had at
Wathar y giving notice to the mail
contractor at Mahabaleshwar. It is a

charming drive of about 5 hrs. ; the
first part through rolling country to
18 m. Waipk D.B. (pop. 12,000),
one of the most beautiful rustic towns
in the Deccan. It is situated on the
left bank .of the Krishna1 which is
lined with beautiful pipul and mango
trees, and with handsome flights of
stone steps. Behind the city rise hills
of all the shapes which are peculiar to
the mountains in the Deccan. There
are round, peaked, flat-topped hills;
some covered with rocks looking at a
distance, like forts and castles. One
hill near the city rises very abruptly,
and has a hill-fort on the top. It is
called Pandugarh. The nearest temple
to the D.B.—and the river is lined with
beautiful temples—is dedicated to Gan—
pati; the next to Mahadco; and one,
at some distance, to Lakshmi. They
form the great beauty of this most
picturesque spot. The mandapam, or
canopy, in front of Mahadeo’s temple
is very light, and a fine specimen of
carving in stone. The Rastia family
have an excellent mansion at no great
distance from the town, called the Moti
Bagh, or “Pearl garden." The road
thither is beautifullyshaded by splendid
bamboos, mangoes, and tamarinds. The
house is a good specimen of the Moham-
medan style. It is open on one side
from top to bottom, and shaded by
huge curtains. Wai is a spot much
famed in Hindu legend. Here, accord-
ing to old tradition, the Pandus spent
part of their banishment, and performed
many wonderful works. On this ac-
count, as because of its proximity to the
Krishna river so near its source, Wai is
viewed as a place of great sanctity; and
there is a college of Brahmans estab-
lished at it, once in much repute.
About 5 m. from Wai up the Krishna
is the village of Dom, where is a very
handsome temple, with a gigantic basin
in the middle of the court of white
marble, the edges carved with lotus
leaves. There is also a pillar about 5
ft. high, having five heads of Shiva on
the top, with cobras twisting round
them, all in white marble.
The most curious thing to be seen
near Wai is a gigantic Banyan Tree, at


314 ROUTE 23.
India
POONA TO GOA
the face of a steep cliff with a sheer
descent of 500 ft., unbroken when the
torrent is swollen by rain, but ordinarily
divided by projecting rocks about one-
third of the way down, and scattered
below into thin white streaks and spray,
which are often circled by rainbows
from the oblique rays of the sun.
Lodwick Point should be visited,
passing through the village of Malcolm
Peth. At about i m. before reaching
the monument to General Lodwick the
carriage stops, and the rest of the way
must be done on foot or on a pony.
The column is about 25 ft. high. The
spot commands a noble view over
Pratapgarh to the W. and Makrangarh
to the S.W.
On the right of the road, and on the
way to Elphinstone Point, is the ancient
village of Mahabaleshwar. It is a small
place, but of great sanctity in the eyes
of the Hindus, as being the spot where
the Krishna and four other rivers have
their source. There are several temples,
one very old, of black stone, said to
have been built by a Gauli Rajah.
Another built by the same chief, and
called Koteshwar, commands a grand
view over the Wai valley. The prin-
cipal temple, however, is called Maha-
baleshwar.
Elphinstone Point is the grandest of
all the precipitous scarps which over-
hang the low country. This is about
4 m. by a good road to the W. of Mo.-
habaleshwar Temple. There isa sheer
descent of above 2000 ft., though not
so steep at the summit but that wild
bison have been seen to gallop down
some part. A rock rolled from the
top thunders down and crashes into
the forests below. The view extends
to the mountains, among which is the
hill-fort of Torna, over an apparently
uninhabited jungle. To the right of
the Point is Arthur’s Seat, another
fine view which must by no means be
omitted. It has its name from Mr.
Arthur Malet, C.S., who first built a
house here.
A visit should be paid to Pratabgarh,
a picturesque hill-fort crowning a pre-
cipitous rock, remarkable as the strong-
hold of Shivaji, and as the scene of one
of the most remarkable events in

Indian history, the founding of the
Maratha empire. A charming drive
of 6 m. leads to the foot of the hills,
whence asteep and difficult path ascends
to the gates of the fortress. Shivaji,
the robber, in 1656 having provoked
hostilities with Bijapur, whose army he
could not meet in the open, determined
to overcome its eneral, Afzal Khan,
by stratagem, an pretending to be in
a state of great alarm at the approach
of the Bijapur army to besiege Partab-
garh, offered to make his submission
to Afzal Khan at a personal interview,
on condition that the two commanders
should meet unarmed, in the midst,
between the two armies with only one
armed attendant. They accordingly
approached from either side, attired,
to all appearance, in white muslin
robes, but Shivaji were under his robe
and turban a coat of mail, and carried
concealed in one hand a cruel instru-
ment called “the tiger’s claws," con-
sisting of sharp steel hooks attached
by rings to his fingers. In the very
act of embracing in an attitude of
abject humility, Shivaji stuck his claws
into the Khan, tore out his Vitals, and
despatched him with a hidden dagger.
His head was struck ofi‘ and buried
under the old tower in the Fort, now
fallen to ruin. Meanwhile the Maratha
army, which had been concealed in
ambush in the jungle, rushed out upon
the Bijapur forces, dispersed them, and
cut them to pieces]
Returning to Wathar sta. the line
proceeds to
77 m. Satara Road sta. From here
it is a 10 m. drive by tonga or carriage
to Satara. Satara, D.B. (pop. 25,000),
is situated in a hollow between two
ranges of hills, which rise above it on
the E. and W., and partly overlap it
on the S. The hill on the W. is the
termination of a spur from the Maha-
baleshwar Hills. From this hill to the
city there is an aqueduct 4 m. long,
and there are also two fine tanks. The
city has many historic recollections,
and the station is one of the most salu-
brious and pleasant in the Deccan,
being close to the foot of the Maha-
baleshwar Hills. The Cantonment is


ROUTE 23.
sauna 315
about 1‘} In. from N. to S. , and nearly
the same from E. to W. In the S. end
is the Residency compound. Outside
the N. gate of the Residency are lines
for the European soldiers, and the native
lines and Sadr bazaar to the N. of them.
St. Thoms’s Church, 700 yds. W. of
the native lines, was opened in 1850.
At the E. end is a handsome stained
glass window, and here also is a carved
screen and roof of teak, and a pulpit
of polished gray stone. 1} Tu. W. of
the English barracks is a large tree
with a stone bench round it, ascended
by steps. It has an interesting inscrip-
tion to the memory of his late High-
ness Shahji Rajah, of Satars, and of
H. B. E. Frere, Esq., the late British
Commissioner of Satara. The New
Cemetery is i m. to the N.E. of the
European barracks, and is planted with
flowers and cypresses and other fine
trees. The road from the Old Cemetery
leads W. through a bazaar for about i
m. and past the Jumma Musjid on the
left to
The New Palace, built by Apa Sahib,
near the centre of the city, and ad-
joining the Old Palace. On the facade
are a number of mythological pictures,
much defaced by the weather. On the
N. side of the court is a vast hall, one
of the largest in India. In the front
court are the offices of the collector
and his assistants, and W. of the hall
are those of the judge. The roof is
supported by sixty-four teak pillars,
besides four in front. The Old Palace
is very shabby, and quite deserted.
About 200 yds. beyond this is a. pretty
garden and villa belonging to Rajah
Ram, who was adopted by the late
Rani. He is in possession of the crown
jewels of the Satara family, and of
Jai Bhawani, the famous sword of
Shivaji, and his other arms. The
sword is 3 ft. 9 in. long in the blade,
and the handle is 8 in. long, but so
small that a European can hardly get
his hand into it. Like most of the
famous blades in India, it is of Euro-
pean make, and has the stamp of Genoa.
The Waghnakh, or “ tiger’s claw,” with
which Shivaji wounded Afzal Khan,
consists of four steel claws, with rings
which pass over the first and fourth

fingers, but are too small for a European
hand. The shield is of rhinoceros hide,
and has four stars or bosses of diamonds.
The gold casket for holding Shivaji's
seal is ornamented with diamonds,
rubies, pearls, and emeralds, and there
is an inkstand and penholder of gold
similarly begemmed. The quilted coat
which Shivaji wore when he murdered
Afzal Khan may also be seen. It is
lined with chain armour, which is
hidden by thick masses of padding and
silk, embroidered with gold. It is
very heavy. The dagger is ve hand-
some, and is 18 in. long. T e dia-
monds, emeralds, and rubies in the
handle are very fine.
The gate of the Port is on the N.
side, and a very steep zigzag path leads
up to it. The ascent lies at first along
the foot of a ridge. After 1; m. or so,
the ridge is crossed, and the path pro-
ceeds along the brink of a precipice
which looks utterly impracticable. The
gate is of stone, and very strongly
built, with buttresses 40 ft. high.
The interior of the Fort is now nearly
desolate. There are only a few bunga-
lows, with one small pagoda, and an
hospital. The Fort is said to have
been built by a Rajah of Panhala, who
reigned in 1192.1 By him, too, were
erected the forts of Bairatgarh and Pan-
dugarh, near Wai, and Chandan and
Wandan, near Satara. Long before
the time of the ’Adil Shahi dynasty at
Bijapur, the fort of Satara was used as
a state prison, and Shivaji, who cap-
tured it in 1673, after a siege of several
months, unwittingly furnished for his
descendants a prison in which they
were for years confined. In 1698, at
the suggestion of Ramchandra Pant,
Satara was made the capital of the
Maratha Government. Next year Aur-
angzib with a great army arrived be-
fore the city and pitched ‘his tents on
the N. side. ’Azim Shah was on the
W. side, at a village since called Shah-
pur. Shirzi Khan invested the S., and
Tarbiyat Khan occupied the E. quarter.
Chains of posts between the different
camps effectually secured the blockade.
The Fort was defended by Pryagji
Prabhu, hawaldar, who had been reared
1 Grant Dutf, vol. i. p. 260.


316 ROUTE 23.
India
POONA TO GOA
in the service of Shivaj i. As the Moguls
advanced, he withdrew into the Fort, and
rolled down huge stones from the rock
above, which did great execution. The
blockade, however, was complete, all
communications were cut off, provisions
were exhausted, and the besieged must
have been compelled to surrender had
not Parshuram Trimbak, who had
thrown himself into the Fort of Prali,
purchased the connivance of ’Azim
Shah, and conveyed stores to the be-
sieged. The grand attack was directed
against the N.E. angle, which is one
of the strongest points, the rock being
42 ft. high, with a bastion on the top
of 25 ft. of masonry. 'l‘arbiyat Khan
undertook to mine this angle, and at
the end of four and a half months had
completed two mines. The storming
party, confident of success, was formed
under the brow of the hill. Aurangzib
moved out in grand procession to view
the attack, and the garrison, and among
them Pryagji, attracted by the splen-
dour of his retinue, crowded to the
rampart. The first mine burst several
fissures in the rock, caused a great
part of the masonry to fall inwards
and crush many of the garrison to
death; but the second and larger
mine burst outwards with a terrible
explosion, and destroyed upwards of
2000 of the besiegers. Pryagji was
buried by the first explosion close to a
temple to Bhavani, but was dug out
alive. This was regarded by the Ma-
rathas as a happy omen, and, animated
by it, the garrison would have made
a prolonged and desperate defence,
but provisions fell short, and 'Azim
Shah would no longer connive at their
introduction. Pro osals of surrender
were therefore ma e through him, and
the honour of the capture, which he so
ill merited, was not only assigned to
him, but the ver name of the place, in
compliment to im, was changed by
the Emperor to ‘Azim Tara.
In 1705 the Fort was retaken by the
Marathas, through the artifice of a
Brahman named Anaji Pant. He in-
gratiated himself with the Moguls
under the character of a mendicant
devotee, a'flfllfling them with stories
and songs, and, being allowed to reside

in the Fort, introduced a body of
Mawalis, and put every man of the
garrison to the sword. Satara sur-
rendered to the English in 1818, and
Pratap Sing, eldest son of Sahu II.,
was installed as Rajah. He held the
principality twenty-one years, and was
sent prisoner to Benares in 1839, being
succeeded by his brother, Apa Sahib,
on whose death, in 1848, the territory
was annexed.
The view from the Fort is very beauti-
ful, over hills rising in every direction,
of varied form, and some crowned with
old forts now crumbling to decay ; on
a wide plain, opening out from the
town, are the Cantonment, the Rem'dcncy,
with its fine garden, and beyond, many
gardens and groves. Through this
plain runs a broad excellent road,
shaded by an avenue of trees to the
Sangam, or junction of the rivers
Krishna and Yena at the beautiful
village of Mahuli.
There are man beautiful rides at
Satara, and goo sport to be had.
Quail are plentiful and florican may
sometimes be found in the neighbour-
hood. Foxes are numerous, and are
coursed with greyhounds, afibrding
excellent sport. Bears, panthers, and
cheetahs may occasionally be found.
Mahuli.—This pretty place, at the
confluence of the Krishna and Yena
rivers, is about 3 m. E. of Satara, and
thoroughly deserves a visit. It is con-
sidered a place of great sanctity, and
the dead from Satara and the surround-
ing villages are brought there for crema-
tion. Descending the river, the first
temple is Kslwtra Mahuli, built in
1825 and dedicated to Radha Shankar.
The temple is of basalt, and consists of
a shrine and verandah, supported by
three small scalloped arches; the dome
is of brick, and conical, but broken up
into gradually-diminishing rows of
stucco ornamentation, in which are
niches filled with images. On the
same side of the river is the temple of
Bholeshwar Mahadco, built in 1742.
The next temple is on the same bank,
dedicated to Rameshwar, and was built
in 1700 A.D. Looking from the oppo-
site bank, one is struck with the very


318 ROUTE 23-
I with
POONA TO GOA
Adjoining the Treasury, in the S.
face of the square, are other Govern-
ment Ofices, and behind them the shrine
of Amba Bat, the tutelary deity of
Kolhapur. The main portion of the
building is built of black stone from
local quarries. The carved stonework
below the dome resembles the style of
Jain temples of the 12th century in
Kanara. The J ains claim this temple,
and say it was dedicated to Padmavati.
In the centre of the E. side of the
court is the adytum, where is the
image of Amba Bai. A brazen image
of the goddess is carried. round the
town in a trinmphal car on the 15th of
April. The great bell of the temple is
inscribed, “Ave Maria Gratiae Plena
Dominus Tecum," and must have been
obtained from the Portuguese about
the year 1739.
From the palace the streets diverge
as radii and join concentric lanes run-
ning arallel to the roads which occupy
the p ace of the old walls pulled down
in 1881. Some interesting Buddhist
remains have been discovered near
Kolhapur, which testify to the an-
tiquity of the place, including a crystal
casket of the 3d century, found in a
tope in the neighbourhood.
N. of the town is a sacred spot, the
Brahmapuri Hill, where the Brahmans
undergo cremation. About 100 yds. N.
of this, close to the Panchganga river,
is what is called the Rani's Garden,
where the bodies of the ruling family
are burned.
From this spot is seen a bridge over
the river, with five arches, finished in
1878 at a cost of £14,000. Beyond
Rani’s Garden is a massive stone gate-
way, 20 ft. high, which leads to the
GenoMphs of Rajah Sambhaji, just op-
posite the door to that of Shivaji, and
more to the left, those of Tara-Bai and
'Ai Bai.
The Kolhapur Light Infantry lines
are at Bawra, a village 3 m. from the
town. They are exceptionallywell kept.
It appears that in ancient times
Kolhapur was subject to earthquakes ;
and in making extensive excavations
many _temples and other buildings
were discovered which had been over-
whelmed with earth.

Rock-cut Caves are found in various
places, one in the Panhala Fort, and
another at the Pandu Darah, 6 m. W.
of Panhala, which is at the head of a
wooded chasm on a hill 1000 ft. above
the plain, but none of these places are
to be compared with others that have
been fully described.
The conduct of the Kolhapur troops,
led by turbulent persons, has on several
occasions been the cause of very serious
troubles, which in 1843 culminated in a
rebellion, and was not suppressed with-
out serious fighting.
In January 1845 a British oflicer
was appointed Political Superintendent
of the Kolhapur state, a brigade was
stationed in the vicinity of the town,
and various measures of reform were
introduced into the government with
the happiest results. Kolhapur, how-
ever, was one of the few places in the‘
Bombay Presidency which took part in
the disastrous rebellion of 1857. The
mutineers broke open the store-guard,
stole arms, and carried otl‘ public treasure
to the amount of 45,000 rs.
[Hill-forts of Panhala and Pawan-
gadh.—Before leaving Kolha ur, the
traveller should pay a visit to anhala,
which lies 12 m. to the N.W. of the
capital. There is an excellent road all
the way right into the Fort. At 7 m.
from Kolhapur tongs. ponies should be
changed. The last 5 m. is a steep
ascent. Jotiba's Hill, close by the
road, is covered by a labyrinth of
sacred temples and gateways. None
of the present temples are of great age.
The three principal ones are dedicated
to Shiva, and built of fine blue basalt.
In the same hill are some old rook-cut
cells. Pawala Caves, near J otiba's Hill,
consist of one large hall 34 ft. sq. with
fourteen pillars. The inner walls have
been cut into cells. Outside to the left
is a very irregular Chaitya cave, 31 ft.
deep and 16% ft. wide in front, with
remains of dagobas. In the centre
of the hill is a line of trees, and here
steps are hewn in the rock which lead
to the temples, the whole distance being
about 4 m. Jotiba is about 2600 ft.
above the sea. The traveller will pass
under the scarp of Pawangadh, a fort


ROUTE 23.
319
PANHALA, GOKAK, BELGAUM
which is about 1500 yds. from the E.
gate of Panhala. Panhala is 2992 ft.
above sea» level, and, though not so high
as Mahabaleshwar, the climate is
cooler, for the thermometer does not
rise above 70°.
The Fortress of Panhala, one of the
most interesting in the W. of India,
standing up boldly at the top of a rocky
height, was the stronghold of a Rajah
in 1192 who reigned over the territory
from Mahadeo Hills N. of Satara to
the river Hiranyakeshi. It was taken
by the Kings of Bijapur, who restored
it in 1549; was captured in 1659 by
Shivaji, who made some of his most
successful expeditions from it ; and
surrendered to the Moguls in 1690 ;
and in 1844 was stormed and taken by
the English. At the Char Darwamh,
or quadruple gate, is a temple to
Maruti ; passing on, there is a Moham-
medan tomb of granite on the 1. con-
verted into a school ; and a little farther
onatemple of Sambhaji on the same side
of the road. The Shivaji Tower (1600
A.D.) is a conspicuous building of two
stories, facing E. and standing at the
brink of a precipice. It is now occupied
by the Political Agent as his summer
quarters, and commands an extensive
view. On one side is a tolerably level
piece of ground, where are the bungalow
of the American Mission on the right,
and the D.B. on the left, and near it
a ruined pavilion. About 3; m. S.W.
of the tower are the stone granaries
which enabled Shivaji to stand a siege
of five months. They are 30 ft. high,
57 ft. broad, and 130 ft. long. At the
W. side of the fort is the Tin Darwazah,
a triple gate handsomely sculptured.
To the right, at about 40 yds. distance,
is the place where the English breached
and stormed the fort in 1844. Any
one who examines this spot will admire
the courage and vigour of the soldiers
who could ascend, under the fire of the
enemy, so steep an approach. About
parallel with this, near the Char Dar-
wazah aforesaid, and overhanging the
scarp, is the Rang Mahal, a pavilion used
for the Mohammedan ladies when Pan-
hala belonged to Bijapur. To the S.,
beyond the school, is a square domed
building, said to be the Tomb of

Shaikh S’adu-dt'n Kattal. Near Sade-
ba’s Temple is an old tank, built 1497,
into which scores of Brahmani women
threw themselves when our soldiers
stormed the fort.]
Returning to Miraj junc., the line
continues to
209 m. Gokak Road sta. (R.)—-Four
m. from here are the falls of the Ghat-
parba river known as the Gokak Falls.
The traveller must take provisions
with him, and should communicate
with the station-master at Gokak and
ask him to make arrangements for a
conveyance. In the rainy season the
falls are very fine, but at other times
of the year the volume of water is
insignificant. The height of the fall
is 176 ft. and the pool below is very
deep. Near the falls, on the right bank,
are a group of old temples. There are
remains of many dolmens S.E. of the
village of Konur, 1 m. from the falls.
The Gokak Canal, an important irriga-
tion work, starts from here.
244 m. Beigaum sta. (R.), D.B., a
civil and military cantonment (pop.
23,000),is called by the natives Shahpur
Belgaum, from the neighbouring jagir
of Shahpur, which lies to the S. It is
situated in a plain about 2500 ft. above
the sea, with low hills in the distance ;
the Fort being at the E. extremity,
the town, which contains nothing of
especial interest, lies in the centre, and
the cantonment to the W.
The Fort is built of stone, oval in
shape, with earthen ramparts and a
ditch. To the N. is a large tank, and
to the S. rice~fields. The entrance is
to the N. W. ; and within are an arsenal,
a barrack, and some bungalows of
civilians and others. This Fort was
taken by Brig-General, afterwards Sir
T. Munro, on the 10th of April
1818.
In the passage, through the gateway
which curves to a second gate, is a row
of arches with some good carving. At
120 yds. distant is the ruined Nakar
Khana, or music gallery, and on the left
is the Fort Church, containing memorial
tablets to O. J. Manson, 0.8., who was
murdered by a band of rebels in the


320 ROUTE 23.
I ndia
POONA '1‘0 GOA
night of the 29th May 1858, and to
Lieut. 'W. P. Shakespeare, A. P.
Campbell, and Ensign W. Caldwell,
who all fell in the insurrection of Kol-
hapur and Sawantwadi.
Beyond the Nakar Khana to the E.
is a neat plain mosque, and farther S.
a Jain Temple, built of laterite.
There is a low wall at the entrance,
along which are carved figures of
musicians. The facade has four pillars
and two pilasters, all of a very com-
plicated character. The inscription in
the old Kanara language, beautifully
cut on a slab of black porphyry, which
once was here, and is now in the Museum
of the Bombay Asiatic Society, states
that Malikarjuna, whose descent for
three generations is given, built the
temple.
The second Jain Temple is within the
Commissariat Store Yard, and is very
much finer than that outside. The
roof is a most complicated piece of
carving, rising in tiers, with eaves
about 2 ft. broad, which rest on bar-like
corbels from the pillars. The principal
entrance faces the N.W., and has one
elephant remaining at the side, much
mutilated,—there is a quadruple pend-
ant in the centre. The niches are
shell~shaped. There are four portals,
7 ft. square each, and each with four
black basalt pillars. There is no
image. Mr. Burgess says: “The
pillars of the temple are square and
massive, but relieved by having all
the principal facets, the triangles on
the base and neck carved with floral
ornamentations. In the front wall of
this chamber (the third), which is 3 ft.
7 in. thick, are two small recesses,
closed by sliding stones 1 ft. 9 in.
high. The door leading from the man-
dapam to the temple has been carved
with uncommon care. On the centre
of the liutel is a Tirthankar, and above
the cornice are four squat human
figures. On the neat colonnettes of
the jambs are five bands with human
groups, in some of which the figures
are little more than an inch high, yet
in high relief ; inside this is a band of
rampant Sinhas, with a sort of high
frill round the neck of each. Outside
the colonncttes is a band of chalcwas, or

sacred geese, another of Sinhas, and
then one of human figures, mostly on
bended knees.”
To the S.E. of this temple is a
mosque called the Musjid-i-Safa. Over
the entrance a Persian inscription
records its being built in 1519 A.D.
Belgaum was taken by Khwajah
Mahmud Gawan, the general of Mu-
hammad Shah, in 1472. As’ad Khan
Suri, otherwise called Khurram Turk,
was a gigantic warrior, who held Bel-
gaum against all assailants for a num-
ber of years in the beginning of the
16th century. There is a round seat,
very solid and heavy, and about 4 ft.
high, in front of the mosque, on which
As’ad Khan is said to have often
sprung when dressed in full armour.
There are two cemeteries, the new
one, which is well kept and planted
with flowers, being 1% In. W. of the
Fort.
St. Mary’s Church stands in the can-
tonment N.W. of the town. It was
consecrated in 1869. There is a hand-
some Memorial Cross in the compound
to twenty-three sergeants of H.M.'s
64th, who died during the Persian and
Indian campaigns, 1856-58.
The Tomb of As’ad Khan is at the
N. end of the Sadar Bazaar, 100 yds. to
the S. of the Roman Catholic Church.
It is a lain square building of stone,
with a dbme, and no inscription.
The Race-course lies to the N.W. of
this building, and it is a pleasant drive
to it.
[Excunsrons
At Sutgati, 14 m. from Belgaum,
and the first stage on the road to
Poona, there are two Indian fig-trees
of very great size. The first is near
the D.B. The stem forms a wall of
timber extending 40 ft. and rises to a
great height; the branches spread out
100 ft. round the trunk. The other
tree is about 1 m. from the bungalow,
and though not remarkable for height,
covers a larger surface of ground.
Kadaroli, anciently called Kadara-
valli, a village on the liver Malparba,
is 3 m. from Mugut Khan Hubli,
which is the second stage on the Dhar-


ROUTE 23.
321
SAMPGAON, SAUNDATI, HULI
war road from Belgaum, and about 18
m. as the crow flies from Belgaum.
It possesses a ruined Temple to Shankar
Dam, of black stone, in the bed of the
river, and inaccessible during floods.
The central shrine is 8 ft. 3i in. square,
and each of the two side ones 5 ft. 61}
in. The pillars of the mandapam and
portico to the central temple remain;
but the roofs and the capitals of all
the columns have been carried off by
the river. This temple is interesting
from its antiquity and its singular
position in the bed of the river.
At Sampgaon, 7% m. N. by E.
from Kadaroli, is a well-proportioned
mosque. Over the Mihrab is a hand-
some Tughra inscription, containing
parts of the 6th, 12th, and 61st Surahs
of the Koran. About 7 m. E. of
Sampgaon is the village of Bail Hangal,
where is a temple which dates from
about 1200 A.D. This temple is about
54 ft. long, and 33 ft. broad.
Saundati, about 18 m. to the E. of
Bail-Hangal, and 40 m. E. of Belgaum,
has a temple to Bhavani. It is in the
Fort, and was built by the Desai of
Nargund.
About 1 m. due S. of Saundati is
the celebrated temple of Yellama, at
Parasgad. It is built in the bed of
the Sarasvati, a small stream which runs
E. from the hills above Saundati. The
temple is said to be 2000 years old,
but was rebuilt in the beginning of the
13th century, and again, except perhaps
the shrine, at the end of the 17th
century. It stands in the middle of a
court, surrounded by arcades with
pointed arches. In the W. gate are
some pillars like those of the Jain
temples at Belgaum, and on the base
of one is an inscription covered with
whitewash.
Huli, a village 9 in. to the N.E. of
Saundati, has a temple of Panchalinga
Deva, built by the Jains about 1100.
On two pillars of the outer mandapam
are Kanarcse inscriptions. At the foot
of the hill to the N. of the village is
a group of ruined temples; one built
of hard com act bluish stone has 3.
[India

mandapam 43 ft. from N. to S. The
four central pillars are similar to those
at Belgaum, only the snake is wanting
on the bracket. The short pillars on
the screen are very varied, hexagonal,
octagonal, and circular. The door-
way of the shrine is of porphyry, richly
carved, and on the lintel is Shri or
Lakshmi, with elephants pouring water
over her. At 6 m. to the N.W. from
Huli is the village of Manauli, where
are eight temples to Panchalinga Deva,
of coarse- grained stone, no way re-
markable for carving. The snake head
on the bracket and their general style
would lead us to assign these temples
to the same age as those at Belgaum,
that is, to the end of the 12th century.
From Manauli to Badami is two
marches. Badami is described in Rte.
24.]
277 m. Londa junc. sta. (R.) (Lines
E. to Bczwada at the delta of the Kistna
river. S.E. to Bangalore and Madras.)
292 in. Castle Rock sta. (R.) Here,
at the frontier of the Portuguese terri-
tory of Goa, the S. Maratha line is
joined by the W. of India Portuguese
Rly., which in 51 m. reaches the coast
at Marmagoa, the seaport of Goa.
In the course of the first 10 m. from
the frontier the line passes through a
dozen tunnels, ranging from 150 to 838
ft. in length, which had to be out
almost entirely out of the solid rock.
Apart from its commercial importance,
the line possesses much interest for
lovers of the picturesque, as it runs
through magni cent scenery.
85 m. from Castle Rock is Dudh
Saugar sta., or the “sea of milk,”
where there is a very fine waterfall.
51 m. The terminus of the rly. is on
the quay at the Port of Marmagoa,
which, as well as the line, is the pro-
perty of the West of India Portuguese
Railway Company ; and arrangements
have been made so that the trade is as
free there as in British India. _
The British India Steam Navigation
Company run vessels to and from Bom-
bay in 26 hours.
Y


322 ROUTE 23.
I ndia.
POON A TO GOA
In approaching Goa from Bombay by
sea the steamer enters a spacious har-
bour formed by two estuaries, with the
island of Goa in between them, and
embraced by two rocky promontories.
At the extremity of the S. arm is the
landing-place and quay of Marmagoa,
where a steamer of 4000 tons can be
berthed. Here at the foot of a sandy cliff
is the Terminus mentioned above, of
the rly., which leaves on one side both
New and Old Goa on its way through
the territory. To reach them a small
steamer crosses the estuary of Marma-
goa, rounds the Cuba, the W. point of
the island, enters the estuary of Agu-
ada, ascends the Mondavi, one of the
two rivers falling into it, and passes,
near its mouth, the fine Fortress and
Church of Reis Megos on the 1. On
the rt. is the island of Goa, and upon
it, at about 4 m. from Marmagoa, stands
New Goa,* otherwise Panjim, a
town of no pretence. It contains 9500
inhabitants, and more than half the
native population are Christian descend-
ants of Hindus converted by Jesuits.
A row of handsome buildings lines
the quay, including the Olol Fort, now
the residence of the Viceroy, who re-
moved hither from Old Goa about
1760, and in 1845 made this the seat
of Government and capital of the Por-
tuguese territory in India. Here also
is the Palace of the Archbishop, who
is Primate of the Roman Catholic
Church in India, and assessor of the
Portuguese Viceroy in the Government.
Near it are the Barracks, which
hold the standing army of 300 men. In
front of them is a statue of Alfonso
d'Albuquerque, the founder of Old Goa.
The Telegraph Ofice is in a reat
part maintained at the expense 0 the
British Government.
The “Goal Boys," so well known in
Bombay and in other parts of India as
servants, come from Panjim.
A good road leads from New to Old
Goa about 5 m. higher up the valley,
at first crossing a causeway thrown
over the swamp to Ribandar village.
Fron1_ here cocoa-nut plantations and
dwelling-houses line the way, which
commands a fine view N. across the

river to the hilly wooded country be-
yond, and includes a conspicuous round
hill, crowned by a church and convent-
ual buildings, upon the river-island of
Divar.
Old Goa (Goa Vclha) owes its origin
to Alfonso (1’ Albuquerque, who at the
head of a Portuguese expedition of 20
ships and 1200 troops attacked and
carried by storm after a severe struggle
a small Mohammedan town on the
coast of Malabar, 1510. On this site
he founded the Christian city. It rose
rapidly into prosperity and importance,
and by the middle of the 16th cent.
became the wealthiest city in all India,
the capital and seat of government of
the then vast Portuguese territory,
with a pepulation of 200,000. Besides
this it was the first Christian colony
in the Indies, and the scene of the
mission labours of St. Francis Xavier.
But decay followed rapidly, first owing
to the attacks of the Dutch, whose
fleets blockaded its harbour ; and next
because, its site proving pestilential, it
became deserted by its inhabitants, of
whom in 1890 only 86 remained.1 It
is now literally a city of ruins, and is
so hidden from view by the foliage of
the jungle which has occupied it, that
the stranger approaches it unawares,
and drives into the midst unconscious
that he is traversing streets of empty
dwellings, whose stunted walls are
occupied by cocoa-nut and other tall
trees instead of human beings.
In the midst of all this ruin, Goa
remains a city of magnificent churches,
four or five ranking as first class and in
perfect preservation, though not in the
best style of architecture, betraying the
degraded taste of the Jesuits.
The main street, the only straight one,
Rua Diretta, leads into a vast central
square composed of churches and con-
vents. The most important of these
and the holiest, because it contains the
body of St. Francis Xavier, is St.
Paul's, commonly known as the Rom
Jesus, erected in 1594. Its handsome
facade runs on into that of another vast
1 Goa in its palmy state is admirably de-
scribed by Captain Marryat in his Phantom
5MP; in its present state by Graham Sand-
berg, Murray’s Magazine, November 1890.


324 ROUTE 24.
I rulia
HOTGI TO DHARWAR
are Our Lady of the Rosary, St. Antony
of Paolua, St. Peter, St. Catherine’s
Chapel, Our Lady of the Mount.
Other churches and monasteries, etc.,
now in ruin are St. Augustine, St.
John d't Dto, Our Lady of Pity, Domini-
can and Carmelita Churches, St. Alexius,
St. Thomas, St. Martin’s Chapel, Church
of the Holy Trinity, St. Bonaventure;
besides Franciscan, Carmelite, Domini-
can, and Augustinian monasteries.
ROUTE 24
HOTGI TO BIJAPUR, BADAMI, AND
Duanwan
Hotgi junc. sta. (R.) is 9 m. E. of
Sholapur, on the line from Bombay
to Madras (see Rte. 22). From Minch-
nal, the station before Bijapur, the
domes and minarets of the city are
plainly seen to the S.
59 m. BIJAPUR.l sta.* (originally
Vtg'ayapnra, city of victory) (R. ), D.B.
The rly. sta. is E. of the city and close
to the G01 Gumbaz, the great tomb of
Muhammad ’Adil Shah.
Followin Fergusson’s account of the
origin of t e ’Adil family, it appears
that—such was the decay of the Bah-
mani dynasty of Kalbarga and Bedar
before the end of the 14th century-
the Hindus might have recovered their
original possessions in Southern India
but for the appearance in the field
of one of their opponents’ generals,
Yusaf Khan, a son of Amurath II., of
Anatolia. He was a Turk of mre
blood, and as it happens, born in Gun-
1 An admirable guide to Biiapur, by H.
Couscns, glving details of all the buildings,
and a valuable historical sketch of the ’Adil
Shnhi dynasty can be bou ht at the rinci l
‘ "\‘ellcrs in ,Bombay and Poona. p pa

stantinople, though his mother was
forced to fly thence while he was still
an infant. After a varied career, he
was purchased for the bodyguard at
Bedar, and soon raised himself to such
pre-eminence, that in 1489 he was en-
abled to proclaim his independence, and
establish himself as the founder of the
'Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur. The
following is the order of their suc-
cession :—
1)
A. .
Yusaf Khan, ’Adil Shah 1489
Ismail ,, 1510
Mallu ,, 1534
Ibrahim I. ,, 1534
’Ali I. ,, 1557
Ibrahim II. ,, 1580
Muhammad ,, 1627
'Ali II. ,, 1656
Sikandar ,, 1672 to 1686,
in which year the city was taken by
Aurangzib. The king was captured
and brought before him in silver chains
and the ’Adil Shahi dynasty ceased to
exist.
The Kaladg'i district was renamed
Bija ur in 1883 when Government
deci ed to reoccupy the old capital as
administrative headquarters of the dis-
trict. The area of the district is
5757 sq. m., and the pop. 638,500,
and already its whole aspect is changed.
Great difficulty was experienced in
clearing ground for roads and houses
from the large areas of prickly pear
that had to be removed. The station
is now well planted with trees.
Torwah about 1610 A.D. was a great
suburb, a rival city, to the W. of
Bijapur; but when Aurangzib took
Bijapur, Torwah was already “quite
depopulated, its ruined palaces only
remaining, with a thick wall surround-
ing it, whose stately gatewa s were
falling to decay." This subur , then,
whose walls extended 3 m. from the
W. gate of the Fort, and probably other
suburbs which have now utterly per-
ished, must have been included in the
30 In. circuit which tradition ascribes
to Bijapur. What is called the city
now is the Fort, of which Grant Dufl
says that it was 6 m. in circumference.
Within the walls of the Fort is the
Citadel, with walls extending 1650 ft.


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ROUTE 24.
BIJAPUR 325
from N. to 8., and 1900 ft. from W. to
E. An examination of the buildings
will give proof of the former riches and
magnificence of this old capital. Two
days will not be too much to devote to
the principal buildings alone.
The Gates of the Fort or city are—
The Fateh Gate (1),1 in the centre of
the S. wall of the city, that by which
Aurangzib is said to have entered.
The Shahpur Gate (2), on the N.W.
The gate itself is furnished with long
iron spikes on the outside to protect it
from being battered in by the elephants
of an enemy. This was a common
device throughout India.
the W. of the city, is the
S. of it, on



In the centre of the N. wall is the
Bahmani Gate (7).
On the E. side of the city, close to
the rly. sta., is the Mausoleum of Mu-
hammad ’Adil Shah, seventh king, a
magnificent structure, generally called
the G01 Gumbaz, or “ Round Dome " (8),
and by some it is styled Gul Gumbaz, or
“Rose Dome." Mr. Fergusson, in his
Hist. of Indian Arch, says of this
buildin : This tomb of “Mahmud1
was in esign as complete a contrast to
that ” of Ibrahim IL, described below,
“as can well be imagined, and is as
remarkable for simple grandeur and
constructive boldness as that of Ibrahim
was for excessive richness and contempt
G01 Gumbaz.
Zohra ur Gate (3); and 600 ft. to
the S. 0 that is the
Makka Gate (4), with representations
on either side of lions trampling on an
elephant. This gate is closed and con-
verted into a school. A less imposing
one (4a), a few hundred yds. farther-
N., serves its purpose. Almost exactly
opposite to it on the other or E. side
0 the Fort is
’Alipur Gate (5), or High Gate,
wrong y called in maps and elsewhere
the Allahpur Gate. N. of it is the
Padshahpur Gate (6) near the rly.
sta..

of constructive proprieties. It is con-
structed on the same principle as that
employed in the design of the dome of
the great mosque, but on so much larger
2. scale as to convert into a wonder of
constructive skill what, in that in-
stance, was only an elegant architect-
ural design.” It is built on a platform
600 ft. square and 2 ft. high. In front is
a great gateway, 94 X 88 ft., with a
Nakar Khana, music gallery, above.
The mausoleum is a square building
1 The numbers refer to the corresponding
numbers on the plan of Bijapur.
1 This kin is called at Bijapur itself
Muhammad, int the word Mahmud, which
signifies “ praiseworthy," occurs in the second
inscription. He is called Mahmud in a paper
mentioned in the Indian Antiquary, vol. 11.
p. 2282. His name was Muhammad Mahmud.


ROUTE 24.
BIJAPUR 327
rounding wall was never completed on
the E. The arcades on the N. and S.
sides are 31 ft. broad. In the centre
of the quadrangle is the hauz or tank
for ablutions, now dry. Mr. Fergusson
says, “Even as it is, it is one of the
finest mosques in India.”
It was commenced by ’Ali 'Adil Shah
I. (1557-79), and though continued by
his successors, was never completely
finished. If it had been completed, it
would have covercl from 50,000 to
55,000 sq. ft., and would have been
the size of a mediaeval cathedral.
The mosque proper has a facade of 9
bays, and is 5 bays in depth. Each of
the squares into which it is divided has
a domed roof, beautiful, but so flat
as to be concealed externally. The
centre, a space 70 ft. square, corre-
sponding to 12 of these squares, is
roofed over by the great dome, which is
57 ft. in diameter. It is supported on
pendentives in the same manner as the
G01 Gumbaz. The pavement below
the dome is of chunam, divided by
black lines into numerous squares called
musallahs, or compartments for persons
to pray on, imitating the musallah, or
prayer-carpet, which the faithful carry
with them to the mosques. These
were made by order of Aurangzib when
he carried away the velvet carpets, the
large golden chain, and other valuables
belonging to the mos ue. Mr. Molecey,
at one time the arc itcct in charge of
the buildings here, states that the shik'r,
or ornament at the top of the mosque,
was filled with a sort of grain called
rum to give it Weight.
The mihrab, which marks the place
on' the W. to which the people turn
in prayer, is gilt and ornamented
with much Arabic writing, but there
is also a Persian quatrain, which may
thus be translated—
Rest not in the Palace of Life, for it is not
secure,
None can rest in a building, which is not
meant to endure,
Fair in my sight seems the World‘s halting-
place,
A sweet treasure is Life, but ’tis gone without
leaving a trace.
This Arch was built in the time of the reign
of Sultan Muhammad Shah.
The date of the ornamentation is
1636.

The Mehtar Mahal (10) is the name
given to the entrance gateway to the
Mehtar Mosque, a building of minor
importance. It stands between the
J 11mma Musjid and the citadel, on the
S. of the road. Itisasmall but elegant
structure, three stories high, with minar -
ets at the corners and ornamental carv-
ing in soft stone about its balconied
and pro'ecting windows. It may be
observe in explanation of its name,
that when the Hindustani language
arose in the Urdu, or camp, of the
Mogul emperors, the Persian soldiers
gave nicknames to various persons,
which took their place in the language 2
thus, a tailor was called Khalifa,
“Caliph " ; a waterman was called
Bihishti, “an inhabitant of Paradise " ;
and a sweeper, the lowest of the low,
was called Mihtar, “a prince." The
story is that Ibrahim Shah had a disease
which his physicians could not cure,
and the astrologers told him that his
only chance was to give a large sum to
the first person he saw next morning.
The king looked out of the window
very early and saw a sweeper, on whom
he bestowed a vast sum, and the poor
fellow, not knowing what to do with
it, built this mosque. Mr. Fergusson
says of this structure: “Perhaps the
most remarkable civil edifice is a little
gateway, known as the Methuri Mahal.
It is in a mixed Hindu and Moham-
medan style, every part and every
detail covered with ornament, but
always equally appropriate and elegant.
Of its class it is perhaps the best
example in the country, though this
class may not be the highest.”
The palace of the Asar-i-Shuif(11),
“illustrious relics," which are hairs of
the Prophet's heard, is a large heavy-
looking building of brick and lime, and
just outside the moat of the inner
citadel and the centre of its E. ram-
part. The E. side is entirely open
from the ground to the ceiling, which
is sup orted by 4 massive teak pillars
60 ft. igh. This forms a deep portico
36 ft. broad, and looks upon a tank
250 ft. sq. The ceiling of the verandah
0r portico is panelled in wood and has
becn very handsomely painted. The


328 ROUTE 24.
India
HOTGI TO DHARWAR
whole of the W. side is occupied by
rooms in two stories. On the right of
the staircase ascending to the upper
rooms is a suite of apartments, in the
first of which are cases for books. They
contained MSS. of seine value, which
were sent by Sir B. Frere to Bombay.
He also preserved the portico by build-
ing a solid square prop and other sup-
ports. The greater portion of the
MSS., it is said, were previously re-
moved by Aurangzib. Remark here a
ve fine piece of ruddy marble with
she ls embedded in it, which is in one
of the arches of the portico. The flight
of stairs ascends to a hall 81 ft. long
and 27 ft. broad, where a few of the
fine carpets which the palace once con-
tained are shown. Opening rt. from
this hall is an upper verandah or ante-
chamber which looks down into the
portico (already described) below. Its
ceilings and walls have been gilt ; the
doors are inlaid with ivory; and in
the palmy days of Bija ur the efl'ect
must have been very stri ing. In the
N. wall is the entrance to the room in
which the sacred hair is kept, and this
is opened only once ayear. Two rooms
to the S. are beautifully painted with
vases of flowers. All these rooms were
defaced and spoiled by the Marathas.
The Rajah himself is said to have set
the example in scraping off the gilding,
and his followers imitated him only too
well. They picked out the ivory that
inlaid the doors, and otherwise so in-
jured the rooms as to reduce this once
splendid palace to the state of an
unsightly am. It is also stated that
Aurangzib was so incensed at seeing
paintings of figures on the walls of a
building devoted to a sacred purpose,
that he directed the faces to be obliter-
ated. The Asar-i-Sharif formerly
communicated on its W. side with the
citadel by means of a bridge, of which
nothing new remains but the piers.
Ori ‘nally built as a court of justice by
Mu ammad Shah about 1646, it suc-
ceeded to the honour of holding the
precious relics of the Prophet after a
similar building within the citadel
had been burned down.
The Arkilla or Citade1.-—The only

citadel gateway that remains is at the
extreme S., facing E.; here the walls
are thick with ancient pillars and
sculptured stones, taken from Jain
temples which probably stood on this
spot when the Mohammedans stormed
the citadel. The temples were demol-
ished by them and many of the stones
were used in rebuilding the walls;
the rest were utilised in the construc-
tion of the 2 “old mosques" within the
citadel.
The Old Mosque (12), a Jain temple
converted into a mosque, is within the
citadel N.W. of the gate. The central
mandapam, or hell, two stories high,
serves as the porch. The inner door-
way, with its perforated screens, is
Mohammedan work. The mosque
proper is made up of Hindu or Jain
pillars of various patterns and heights.
At the N. side, about the centre row,
notice a wonderfully handsome and
elaborately carved black pillar, and to
the N. E. of it an ancient Kanarese in-
scription. On several of the pillars
around are inscriptions, some in San-
scrit and some in Kanarese. One bears
the date 1320.
The Anand Mahal (13), or “palace
of jo ," where the ladies of the sera lio
live , is in the centre of the cita el.
It was built by Ibrahim II. in 1589,
and intended partly for his own use,
but the facade was never finished. It
contains a very fine hall, and is now
the Assistant-Collector’s residence.
The Gagan Mahal (14), or “heavenly
palace," supposed to have been built
by ’Ali 'Adil Shah I. , is on the W. of
the citadel close to the moat, and faces
N. It has three magnificent arches.
The s n of the central one is 61 ft.,
and t at of each of the side arches 18
ft. The height of all three is the same,
about 50 ft. It was used as a Durbar
Hall, and on the roof was a gallery
from which the ladies could see what
occurred on the open space in front.
It is said that here Aurangzib received
the submission of the king and the
nobles on the fall of Bijapur.
A small building to the S.E. 0f the
Gagan Mahal has been converted into


ROUTE 24.
BIJAPUR 329
the Station Church (15). In plan it is
a square; the roof is supported by 4
pillars, and it is decorated with ex-
quisite relief patterns in flat plaster-
work. The beautifully wrought iron
screen was found in the Chini Mahal.
About 150 yds. to the N.E. of the
Gagan Mahal is another old mosque (16)
built with the stones of a Jain temple.
It has ten rows of pillars seven deep.
On the extreme W. of the citadel is
the Sat Manjli (17), or “ seven stories,"
a pleasure-palace or perhaps a watch-
tower, from the top of which the whole
city could be overlooked. These strange
many-storied buildings are not un-
common in India,—~c. g. there is a very
perfect one at Fatehpur-Sikri. Of
this only 5 stories now remain. One
peculiarity is the number of water-
pipes and cisterns round about it. It
formed the N.E. corner of a vast build-
ing wrongly called the Granary (18),
which was probably the public palace
of the kings, where their public and
private audiences were held.
At the S. end of this building is a
palace which at one time must have
been of considerable importance. It is
called the Chini Maha! (19), from the
quantity of broken china found there,
and possesses a fine hall 128 ft. long.
In front of the Granary, in the centre
of the road, stands a beautifully orna-
mented little pavilion (20), the purpose
of which is unknown. From this the
moat of the citadel is crossed by a
causeway 140 ft. long, but the average
breagth of the moat may be taken as
150 1;.
Within the citadel and to the N. E.
of the gateway is the Hakka. Musjid
(21), a miniature mosque of beautiful
proportions and great simplicity of
design. The massive minarets at the
corners of the highwallswhich surround
it in all probability belonged to an
earlier building. The facade of the
mosque proper has 5 bays of arches
about 8 ft. high, is 2 bays deep, and is
surmounted by a dome.
Immediately to the W. is a huge

walled space which is thought to have
been an elephant stable (21a), and
adjoining it S. is a tower which was
probably used for the storage of grain.
The unfinished Tomb of 'Ali 'Adil
Shah II. (22) is to the N. of the citadel.
It is a noble ruin, a square with seven
large Gothic-looking arches on each
side, constructed on a terrace 15 ft.
high, and 215 ft. sq Had not the
death of the Sultan put a stop to its
progress, and prevented its com iletion
in conformity with the original esign,
it would have surpassed every other
building at Bijapur, both in magnifi'
cence and size. The cenotaph is in
the centre enclosure, which is 78 ft.
sq., and if completed would have been
crowned by a dome. !
Close to this tomb on the S.W. is
Bukhara Musjid, now the Post Ofice
(23).
To the W. of the city, and near the
Makka Gate, are 2 domed tombs close
together and very much alike, known
by Europeans as “The Two Sisters”
(24). The octagonal one (now the house
of the Executive Engineer) contains
the remains of Khan- Muhammad,
assassinated at the instigation of Sultan
Muhammad for his treacherous dealings
with Aurangzib, and of his son Khawas
Khan, Vazir to Sikandar. The dome
is nearly complete, and springs from a
band of lozenge-shaped leaves. The
space within forms a beautiful room.
The square building is the mausoleum
of Abdul Ramk, the religious tutor of
Khawas Khan. It is a large building,
now much decayed. Near it S. is the
Tomb, with its unfinished brick dome,
of Kishwar Khan, whose father, Asad
Khan, is repeatedly mentioned by the
Portuguese. He founded the fort of
Dharur, in the time of ’Ali ’Adil Shah
I., and was taken and put to death by
one of the Nizam Shahi kings.
The Andu Musjid (25), 1608, stands
on the E. side of the road which runs
S. from the citadel. It is a 2-storied
building, the lower part forming a hall
and the upper part the mosque proper
and its small court. The facade has 3
bays, it is surmounted bya fluted dome


330 ROUTE 24.
India
HOTGI TO DHARWAR
and 4 small minarets, and the masonry
and workmanship are finer than that
of any other building in Bijapur.
lflmwas Khan's Mahal is 700 ft. N.
of the J umma Musjid. Yakut Dabuli’s
Tomband Mosque are N.E. of the citadel.
The tomb is square with stone lattice-
work screens. It was Yakut Dabuli
who decorated the mihrab of the J umma
Musjid. NawabMustafaKhan’sMosque,
500 ds. E. of the citadel, is a lofty
buil ing with a facade of 3 arches and
a central dome supported on penden-
tives. Behind the mosque W. are the
ruins of the Khan's Palace. Mustafa
Khan Ardistani was a. distinguished
nobleman at the court of 'Ali ’Adil
Shah I., and was murdered in 1581 A.D.
by Kishwar Khan, who usurped the
regency in the time of Ibrahim ’Adil
Shah II.
Outside the W. wall of the city is
The Ibrahim Roza. ( ronounced
mum) (26), a group of buildings which
includes the tombs of Ibrahim (IL)
‘Adil Shah, his Queen Taj Sultana, and
4 other members of his family. Dr.
Bird says truly, “this tomb is de-
cidedly the most chaste in design and
classical in execution of all the works
which the Bijapur sovereigns have left
behind them." The Ibrahim Roza is
400 yds. W. of the Makka Gate. This
magnificent building is said to have
been erected by a Persian architect.
It is enclosed by a strong wall with a
lofty gateway. The courtyard within
was once a garden ; in the centre of it
is raised an oblong platform upon which
stands the tomb, and to the W. of it a
mosque, with a fountain and reservoir
between them. The 5 arches which
form the E. facade of the Mosque are
very graceful ; above them, under the
rich cornice, hang heavy chains cut out
of stone. On each of the four sides of
the Tomb is a colonnade of 7 arches,
forming a verandah 15 ft. broad round
the whole edifice. The avement of this
colonnade is slightly eiIevated, and its
ceiling is exquisrtely carved with verses
of the Koran, enclosed in compartments
and interspersed with wreaths of flowers.
The letters were originally gilt, and the
ground is still a most brilliant azure.

In some places the gilding also still
remains. The border of every com-
partment is different from that of the
one adjoining. The windows are
formed of lattice-work of Arabic sen-
tences, cut out of stone slabs, the space
between each letter admitting the
light. This work is so admirably exe-
cuted, that Colonel Sykes declares there
is nothing to surpass it in India.
Above the double arcade outside the
building is a magnificent cornice with
a minaret four stories high at each
corner and eight smaller ones between
them. From an inner cornice, with
four minarets on each side, rises the
dome. The plan of the building re-
sembles that of the tombs at Golkonda.
The principal apartment in the tomb
is 40 ft. sq., with a stone-slab roof per-
fectly flat in the centre, and supported
only by a cove projecting 10 ft. from
the walls on every side. “ How the roof
is supported is a mystery which can
only be understood by those who are
familiar with the use the Indians make
of masses of concrete, which, with good
mortar, seems capable of infinite ap-
plications unknown in Europe. Above
this apartment is another in the dome
as ornamental as the one below it,
though its only object is to obtain ex-
ternally the height required for archi-
tectural effect,- and access to its interior
can only be obtained bya dark, narrow
staircase in the thickness of the wall." 1
Over the N. door is an inscription in
Persian, extolling the building in very
exaggerated terms. The last line is a
chronogram, which gives the date
1036 AJ-I. = 1626 A.D. Over the S. door
is another inscription in praise of the
monarch, with the date 1633. Over
the same door is inscribed—
[Translatima]

The work of beautifying this Mausoleum was
completed by Malik Sandal!
1 From Fergusson’s Hist. of Indian Arch.
The author also says “that Ibrahim, warned
by the fate of his predecessor's tomb, coni~
menced his own on so small a plan, 116 ft.
sq., that it was only by ornament that he could
render it worthy of himself." Refer to Fer-
gusson also for further information concerning
this exquisite building.
3 The tomb of this personage is at Tikota,
m. W. of the Makka Gate. -


ROUTE 24.
BIJAPUR 331
Taj-i-Sultan issued orders for the construction
of this Roza,
At the beauty of which Paradise stood amazed.
He expended over it 1} lakhs of huns,
And 900 more.
The hun being 3% rs., the total expense
was about £70,000. When Aurangzib
besieged Bijapur in 1686 he took up his
quarters in the Ibrahim Roza, which
received some damage from the Bijapur
guns. These injuries were partially
repaired by the Rajah of Satara, but
the restoration was completed by the
English.
Guns and Bastions.—The Burj-i-
Sherza, or “Lion Bastion" (27), so
called from being ornamented by two
lions’ heads in stone, is 500 yds. S. of
the Shahpur Gate. On the right-hand
side on ascending the steps of the bas-
tion is an inscription stating that it
was built in five months, and giving
the date 1671. On the top of this
bastion is a huge n, called the Malik-
i-Maidam, “Lor of the Plain.” On
either side of the muzzle the represent-
ation of the mouth of a monster
swallowing an elephant is wrought in
relief. It was cast at Ahmednagar in
a blue metal which takes a very high
polish. It is 14 ft. long, the circum-
ference is about 13 ft. 6 in., and the
diameter of the bore is 2 ft. 4 in. Just
above the touch-hole is the following
inscription :—~
The work of Muhammad Bin Husain Bumi.
At the muzzle is the following :—
The servant of the family of the Prophet of
God, Abu‘l Ghazi Nizaln Shah, 956 A.H.=
1551 A.D.
At the muzzle is also—
In the 30th year of the exalted reign,
1097 A.H., Shah 'Alaingir, conqueror of infi-
(leis, King, Defender of the Faith,
Conquered Bijapur, and for the date of his
triumph,
He fulfilled what justice required, and an-
nexed the territory of the Shahs,
Success showed itself, and he took the Malik-
i-Maidan.
About 150 yds. E. of the Sherza Burj
is a strange building, called the Upri
Burj, or Upper Bastion, also called the
Ha'z'dar ij (28), after a general of
’Ali I. and Ibrahim II. It is a tower
61 ft. high, oval in plan, with an out-
side staircase. On the way up will be

noticed a Persian inscription recording
the building of the tower in 1583.
On the top are two guns made of
longitudinal bars held together with
iron bands. The larger, called the
Lamcharri, “far flier,” is 30 ft. 8 in.
long, and has a diameter of 2 ft. 5 in.
at the muzzle, and 3 ft. at the breech ;
the bore is 12 in. in diameter. The
other gun is 19 ft. 10 in. long, with 1
ft. diameter at the muzzle, and 1 ft. 6
in. diameter at breech. In addition to
these there are several other large guns
lying about Bijapur.
There are several Tanks in Bijapur.
The principal one is the Taj Baoli, or
“Crown Well” (29). It is 100 yds.
E. of the Makka Gate. The E. wing
of the facade of the tank is partly
ruined and partly used as a Kanarese
school. The W. wing is occupied by
the municipal oflices. Two flights of
steps lead down to the water beneath
an arch of 34 ft. span, and about the
same height, flanked by 2 tall octagonal
towers. The tank at the water’s ed e
is 231 ft. sq. The water comes part y
from springs and partly from drainage,
and is 30 ft. deep in the dry weather.
There are many fish in it. Colonel
Sykes states that it was built by Malik
Sandal in Sultan Muhammad’s reign ;
but according to Dr. Bird it was the
work of the Vazir of Sultan Muham-
mad. -In the arcade to the right of
the well remark the curious roof, the
rafters of which are of stone.
Water W0rks.—-Bijapur was supplied
with abundant water by underground
ducts. One source of supply was a
spring beyond the suburb of Torwah,
5 in. W. of the citadel; another was
the Begam Tank, 3 m. to the S.
Along the line of the supply water
occur towers supposed to be for the pur-
pose of relieving the ressure in the
pipes. The people evi ently appreci-
ated the advantage of having plenty
of cool water about them, and traces of
innumerable baths and cisterns are
found in every direction. The water
from the reservoirs, for instance, in_the
ruined palace of Mustafa Khan, ran into
a tank, from which it brimmed over


332 ROUTE 24.
I ndia.
HOTGI TO DHARWAR
into narrow stone channels, which
passed in circuitous courses through the
gardens, passing over uneven surfaces to
give it a sparkling and rippling efl'ect.
Many days might well be spent in
exploring the neighbourhood and visit-
ing the numerous objects of minor
interest in which Bija ur abounds, but
which it is beyond t e scope of this
book even to mention.
From Bijapur the line continues to
132 m. Badami sta. The N. fort of
Badami is to the N.E. of the town,
and on the heights above are some
picturesque temples. To the S. is
another rocky fort-crowned hill, in the
face of which are four cave-temples.
The two hills (about 400 ft. high)
approach so close to each other as to
leave only a gorge, into which the town
extends. Near it is a fine tank.
The Forts are no doubt of extreme
antiquity, and in some shape or other
probably existed as long back as the
Christian era. Little or nothing is known
of their ancient history. In 1786
Badami was in the possession of Tipu
Sahib, and was attacked by the armies
of Nizam 'Ali and the Peshwa Mhadu
Rao. Their operations at first were not
successful, “but it was determined to
try the effect of an escalade. On the
morning of the 20th of May 20,000
infantry of the confederate armies were
drawn up for that service. The garri-
son, consisting of upwards of 3500 men,
manned the works to oppose them;
and when the assailants advanced,
which they did with great resolution,
they found the ditch and covered-way
full of mines, which were fired, and
proved exceedin ly destructive; but
the Marathas an Moguls, vying with
each other, rushed forward in a most
impetuous though tumultuous manner,
applied ladders, mounted the walls in
various places, and, except a slight
check sustained at the citadel, carried
all before them within the town." The
garrison fled to the forts above, and
rolled down huge stones upon their
assailants, whose “casualties were
PlllPeFOlI-‘i ; but the garrison, becoming
intimidated at their furious and erse-
vermg attack, offered to surren er if

their lives were spared, a condition
which was immediately granted." (See
Grant Dufl', vol. iii. p. 10.) The fort
was taken by the British under Sir
Thomas Munro in 1818.
The Fort upon the N. hill in its
lower part includes much of the town,
and this part is defended by a ditch
50 ft. deep. To view the fort the
traveller should start ver early in the
morning, and proceed to t e to of the
lower fort, which faces to t e S.W. ;
and soon after passing it, and leaving
on the left a Temple of Hanuman,
ascend 120 ft. to a Temple of Mahadeo,
built of hard sandstone, whence he will
have an excellent view over the town
and hills. Above the Temple of Maha-
deo rises a scarped rock 90 ft. high,
round the edge of which runs part of
the wall of the upper fort, which is
now quite deserted, only one iron gun,
about 10 ft. long, remaining. There
are two or three other tem les, mostly
in the upper fort, which ave a very
picturesque appearance. Descendin
from the Temple of Mahadeo, an
passing along to the E. portion of the
town, and close to the S. hill, will be
seen two Mohammedan tombs and a
mosque with several inscriptions in the
'Iiléghra character about two centuries
o .
The S. hill is also crowned with a
Fort, and contains in its W. face four
Cave Temples, which have rendered
Badami celebrated, though the natural
beauties of the scenery might well have
done so without assistance from art.
The First Case is about 30 ft. from
the ground, and faces W. Mr. Bur ess
has given views of these eaves, an an
excellent account of them. He says:
“They stand as to arrangement of
parts between the Buddhist viharas
and the later Brahmanical examples
at Ellora, Elephanta, and Salsette.
The front wall of the Buddhist vihara,
with its small windows and doors, ad-
mitted too little light; and so here,
while retaining the verandah in front,
and further protecting the cave from
rain and sun b projecting eaves, the
front of the Sha a, or ‘hall,’ was made
uite 0 en, except the s aces between
t e we s and the first p' ars from each


ROUTE 24.
BADAMI 333
end. In the sculptures, at least of the
second and third caves, Vishnu occupies
the most prominent lace. In style
they var much in etails, but‘ can
scarcely 'ifer much in age ; and as the
third contains an inscription of Man-
galeshvara, dated Shaka 500 = 578
A.D., we cannot be far wrong in attri-
buting them all to the 6th cent. The
importance of this date can scarcely
be overestimated, as it is the first of
the kind yet discovered in a Brahmani-
cal cave." In the facade of the first
cave are four pillars and two pilasters.
The two pillars to the S. have been
broken by lightning, and are now
an ported by wooden blocks. The
pil ars are slightly carved in relief, to
about half-way from the top. On the
left of the cave is a dwarpal, with a
Nandi over him. Opposite this dwarpal
is a figure of Shiva, 5 ft. high, with
eighteen arms. There is a head of a
bull and Ganpati and musicians. Be-
yond the facade is a passage, or verandah.
On the left is Vishnu or Harihara, with
four hands, holding the usual symbols.
On the right is Lakshmi, with an
attendant. The whole rests on a
stylobate, along the front of which are
Ganas (dwarf attendants of Shiva) in
all sorts of attitudes. On a platform
to the right is Shiva with Parbati and
Nandi. On the back wall is a figure
of Maheshasuri or Durga destroying
the buffalo-demon Maheshasur. She
has four arms, and holds up the buffalo by
the tail, while her spear-head transfixes
its neck. In one hand she holds the
discus, or Chakra, in another the spear,
in the third a conch, and in the fourth
the buffalo’s tail. On the right wall is
Gan ati, and on the left Skanda. Be-
yon the passage is a chamber, with
two pillars carved from the capitals to
'the middle. Inside are two rows of
pillars. The ceiling of the passage, as
well as that of the chamber, is carved
in relief. From this temple flights of
steps lead up to the
Second Gave Temple. From the
platform thus reached is a fine view
over the tank, and to the N. fort. The
facade has four pillars carved from the
middle'upwards, and four scalloped

arches. It faces N. In front of it are
three pinnacles of perpendicular rock.
There are two dwarpals with a female
attendant. At the E. end of the
verandah, to the left of the spectator,
is the Varaha, or Vishnu in the form
of a bear. Below are Shesha, the 1000-
headed snake, depicted with a human
head, and a female figure. A group of
figures is succeeded by Vishnu, dilated
to an immense size, putting one foot
on the earth and lifting the other over
the heavens. The same subject is
depicted at the Seven Pagodas, and at
Elephanta. On the ceiling in front of
this is Vishnu with four arms, riding
on Gar'uda. On the top of the wall,
in a frieze, are the figures of Vishnu
and Shesha. In the central square of
the ceiling is a lotus with sixteen fishes
round it. The corbels supporting the
verandah are strange, vampire-like
figures. The frieze of the cornice all
round is carved with groups of figures.
The entrance to the inner chamber
from the verandah is like that of the
first cave; the roof of the chamber is
supported by eight pillars; and the
corbels are lions, human figures, vam-
pires, elephants, etc. The adyturn has
only a square Ohava’ranga, or altar.
On the architrave in the middle
compartment are several groups, such
as a woman on a couch- nursing a child.
The figures that support the cross-
beams are some of them very spirited.
A sloping ascent and more flights
of steps lead up to a platform, and a
few steps beyond is a doorway ; on the
right of it is an inscription in old Kan-
arese. At the top of one other flight
of steps is the platform in front of the
Third Gave. Above the facade of this
cave is a scarp of 100 ft. of perpendicu-
lar rock. This cave, says Mr. Burgess,
is “by far the finest of the series, and,
in some respects, one of the most inter-
esting Brahmanical works in India.”
The facade is 72 ft. from N. to S., and
has six square pillars and two pilasters
12% ft. high. Eleven steps lead up to
the cave, and thus a stylobate is formed
on which Ganas are re resented in
relief. The brackets 0 the pillars
represent male and female figures,
Arddhanarishvara, Shiva, and Parbati,
and on the columns themselves are


334 ROUTE 24.
India
HOTGI TO DHARWAR
carved elaborate festoons, and below
medallions with groups of figures.
Traces of painting are visible on the
under-side of the eaves and the roof of


Cave at Badami, from a plan by Mr. Burgess.
the verandah. At the W. end of the
verandah is a statue of Narsing, the
fourth incarnation of Vishnu, a very
spirited figure, 11 ft. high. On the S.
wall is Shiva, of the same height. At
the E. end is Narayan, seated under
Sheshnag. The moulding of the
features is very good and expressive of
repose. On the left of this figure is the
Varaha incarnation; to the right an
inscription in Kanarese. The chamber
is 35 ft. from E. to W., and 38 ft. from
N. to 5., and 16% ft. high. A very
dee eave projects in front of the ver-
an ah, with an alto-relieve carving of
Garuda. On the rock to the left of the
cave is an inscription. E. of this cave
is a wall 7 ft. high, which separates the
Fourth, or Jain Gare, from the other
three, which are Brahmanical. The
platform beyond the wall overlooks
the lake or tank, and commands a fine
view. The descent is very steep and
covered with bushes. A broad over-
hanging eave has been cut out of the
rock in front of this cave, with Garuda
as its central ornament inside. The
fa ade has four carved pillars and two
p' asters, with scalloped arches between.
On the left of the verandah is a Jain
divinity, with bands round his thighs,
and cobras coming out below his feet.
On the right of the verandah is a
Buddha, with the Sheshnag over his

head. There are two pillars in front,
and two richly ornamented pilasters.
There are also four rows of figures, with
Buddha in the centre. Beyond is the
Adytum, a recess containing another
image of Buddha. From the verandah
a flight of steps leads up to the door of
the fort.
Visitors in descending will not fail
to be amused with the monkeys, which
come out on the scarped face of the
rock, and sometimes endeavour to
push one another down the precipice.
At the head of the lake a large mass
of the rock has fallen, and forms what
may be called a
Fifth Care. The entrance is by a.
hole, through which one must crawl.
Against the rock at the back are a large
and a small Jain figure. A little to the
N.W. of this is a small shrine built
against the rock, on which are carved
Vishnu and Shesha surrounded by
deities. To the N.W. and N. are
numerous other shrines. N.E. of the
dharmsala is an old temple with massive
square pillars, and on the right of the
door is a. Kanarese inscription. There
are some carvings about it. This
temple is quite deserted, and is infested
both by bats and panthers.
The traveller will do well to visit
the village of Banshankaa', where is a
temple to Parbati, the wife of Shiva.
It is about 2 m. from Badami, or half-
way between Badamiand the Malpa'r-
ba River. On the approach to it is a
small stone pavilion, and 200 yds.
beyond is a tank 364 ft. sq. with a
covered colonnade. On the W. side
there is only a pavilion with four rows
of pillars. On the E. side is a ghat
with stone steps going down to the
water. The tank is full of fish. There
are also many large monkeys, who
bound along the roof of the colonnade
with surprising agility. At the N.W.
corner of the colonnade is the Bath,
or chariot of the deity, 26 ft. high ; the
larger wheels are 7 ft. in diameter.
Parbati’s temple is on the W. side.
There is also a lofty tower for lamps,
in several tiers. Beyond the temple
to the E. is a fine stream of clear water
25 ft. broad, flowing amongst tall trees
and shrubs.


ROUTE 24.
335
SIGHTS IN THE VICINI'I‘Y OF BADAMI
SIGHTS IN THE VICINITY or BADAMI.
3 m. to the E. of Badami is Mahakut,
where is a fine tank faced with stone;
in it is a very old Lingam with five
heads, three of which are Brahma,
Vishnu, and Mahadeo. It is called the
Pavwhmulcha, “five-faced.” There is
also a large fallen column, a monolith,
with three long inscriptions, one of
which has never been deciphered.
At Pattadakal, 5 m. S.W. of Badami,
on the left bank of the Malparba river,
are several temples, both Brahmanical
and Jain, dating from the 7th or 8th
century. They “are very pure ex-
amples of the Dravidian style of archi-
tecture ; they are all square pyramids
divided into distinct stories, and each
story ornamented with cells alternately
oblong and square. Their style of
ornamentation is also very much coarser
than that of the Chalukya style, and
differs very much in character. The
domical termination of the spires is
also different, and much less graceful,


Temple at Pattadakal.
and the oVerhangin cornices of double
curvature are muc more prominent
and important " (Burgess). Besides
these, the village possesses a group of
temples, not remarkable for t leir size
or architectural beauty, but interestin
because the exhibit the two principfi
styles of In ian architecture, in absolute
juxtaposition (see Arch. of Dharwar

and Mysore, pp. 63, 64). The Temple
of Papnath is of the N. style, and is
probably rather older than that of
V impaksha, which dates from the
early part of the 8th century. The
Temple of Papnath is 90 ft. long, in-
cluding the porch, and 40 ft. broad.
There are sixteen pillars in the hall and
four in the inner chamber, exclusive of
those in the porches.
At Aiwalli, 5 m. to the N.E. of
Badami, there are a Jain Cave and a
Brahmanical Cave, both described by
Mr. Burgess. The latter is to the N. W.
of the village. The Durga Temple
has some very remarkable carving;
and here, too, are many dolmens.

174 m. Gadag junc.?sta. (R.), D. B.
(From this point the traveller has a
choice of railway routes taking him all
over Southern India and t0 the western
coast near Goa (Rte. 23). Vijayana-
gar (Rte. 26) is about half-way be-
tween Guntakal junc. E. and Gada
junc. W., and can be equally wel
visited from either.)
Gadag, anciently Kratuka, is a town
of 17,000 inhabitants, with the usual
offices of a civil station. In its N. W.
corner is a Vishnmn'lc Temple. The
entrance is under a high gateway, or
gopura, with four stories, and 50 ft.
high. The door is handsomely carved
with sixteen rows of figures in relief
on either side, and opens into a paved
enclosure, in which is the temple, a
quite plain building, with a well.
S.W. of this, 300 yds. off, is a temple
to Kari Dev, “ Black God.” The doors
are handsomely carved, as is the out-
side of the adytum. This temple
resembles the principal temple at Lak-
kundi (described below), and is built
of the same bluish stone. At 30 yds.
S. of this is another small Jain temple.
At the S.W. corner of the town is
the Karwar company’s cotton factory.
Close to this is the Government
Telegraph Office and the Mumlutdar’s
Cutcherry.
In the S. quarter of the town is the
principal Temple; the only one worth
comin from a long distance to see. It
is de icated to Trimbakeshwar 01'


ROUTE 24.
337
HUBLI—DHARWAR
stands on the N. side of a tank, which
it overlooks.
At 200 yds. to the S. is a Temple to
Basowa, which is large, but only 7 ft.
high. It is a plain building, but
prettily situated on the E. side of the
tank, which is a well-known place for
wild ducks and snipe. The inner
chamber is 8 ft. sq.
Inside the town, 200 yds. to the W.,
is a Temple to Mallika'rjuna, but the
people at Lakkundi say it is the name
of a mountain at Tirupati.
100 yds. farther W. is a Temple to
Iskwara, the roof of which has fallen
in. It is very old; the exterior is
handsomely carved, and is said to be
the work of Jakanacharya, the great
sculptor.
A narrow path, thickly shaded for
about 100 yds., leads to a Baoli, or well,
—in fact a. small tank, the sides of
which are faced with stone. There are
fli hts of steps to the water on three
si es, and on either side of the first step
is an elephant, so well carved, that the
natives may be believed when they say
that it is the work of Jakanacharya.
About 200 yds. from this, on the W.
side of the tower, is a Temple to Mom'-
lceshwar, a name of Krishna, so called
because every day he gave to Radha a
ruby, which is called a manik. A very
pretty small tank adjoins the temple.
It is faced with stone, and has several
buttresses projecting into the water,
said to be carved by Jakauacharya.
On either side of the entrance into the
temple are four pillars of black basalt.
There is nothing in the inner chamber ;
the roof is pyramidal. Part of the
outer wall is falling. This temple is
surrounded by beautiful trees of great
slze.
From Gadag the line turns W. to
210 m. Hubli junc. sta. (R.) (line
S.E. to Harihar (R.) and Bangalore,
Rte. 27).
222 m. Dharwax sta. (R.), D.B.
Near it is an obelisk erected to Mr.
Thackeray and Mr. Munro, who were
killed at Kittur in 1824. Dharwar is
a large open town in a plain, with a
pop. of 27,000.
[India]

On the N. is the Fort, which is strong,
though the defences are of mud and
irregular. It has a double wall, and
an outer and inner ditch, from 25 to 30
ft. wide and deep. It looks very deso-
late and wretched, and there is nothing
remarkable to be seen either there or in
the town. The Fort was taken from
the Marathas by Haidar ’Ali in 1778,
and stood a siege in 1789 from a Bn'tish
force co-operating with the Maratha
army under Parshuram Bhao. It next
belonged to Ti 11 ; and one of his ablest
generals, Ba ru-zaman, with 7000
regulars and 3000 irregulars, having
thrown himself into it, defended it with
great spirit. After a protracted siege
of 29 weeks, the brave Badru-zaman
surrendered on condition of being
allowed to march out with all the
honours of war. The allies took pos-
session of the fort on 4th April, and
the Marathas attacked Badru-zaman as
he was marching away, wounded him,
made him prisoner, and dispersed the
forces.
The Cemetery at Dharwar is a little
to the S.W. of the fort. Here are
buried Capt. Black and Lieuts. Sewell
and Dighton, of the Madras H. Artil-
lery, “ who lost their lives in gallantly
attempting to quell the insurrection at
Kittur, on the 23d of October 1824."
There is a tablet to the nephew of Sir
T. Munro, who was killed on the same
occasion.
The Church at Dharwar is about 1
m. to the S. of the DB. It belongs
to the Basle German Evangelical Mis-
sion, and was built in 1844-45. The
tower is 40 ft. high. The service by
the missionaries is in Kanarese, and
once on Sunday in English. The can-
tonments for the native infantry, to the
N. W. of the fort, are quite 2 m. off.
About 11} m. S. of Dharwar is a hill
called the Mailargar. On its summit
stands a small square stone temple,
built after the Jain fashion, and facing
the E. The columns and beams are
of massive stone, and the roof of the
same material is handsomely carved.
On one of the columns is an inscription
in Persian, recording that the temple
was converted into a mosque 1680
by the deputy of the King of Bnapllr-
z


338 ROUTE 25.
India
WADI JUNCTION T0 BEZWADA
/_...---_-.-__—_—____W
The ruins of the Port of Kittnr are
18 m. N.W. of Dharwar by road. The
place has been too much destroyed to
be of much interest.
The line continues W. to Castle
Rock sta. (Rte. 23).
ROUTE 25
WADI JUNCTION ro HAIDARABAD
AND BEZWADA
H. H. the Nizsm's State Rly.
376 m. from Bombay, Wadijunc. sta.
(R.) (see Rte. 22).
44 m. from Wadi, Jandur sta. (R.)
90 m. Lingampalli sta. Soon after
this the line is very picturesque, dotted
with numerous granite peaks and
isolated rocks. This stone belt extends
to Bhunigaon, 28 111. E. of Haidarabad.
115 m. HAIDABABAD sta. at: The
capital of H.H. the Nizam’s territory.
The station of an English brigade, and
the headquarters of the Haidarabad
contingent. The city (pop, with
suburbs, 392,700) stands on the S. bank
of the Musi river, with Golkondato W.,
and the cantonments of the British
troops, the contingent, and the Resi-
dency and its bazaars to the N.
The state of which Haidarabad is the
capital covers 98,000 sq. m., with a
p. of 10,458,930, and is by far the
r'gest native state in India.
here is a very beautiful Public Plea-
SWre-grtm‘nd N. of the station. In this
garden are two pavilions, and at one
end a menagerie. There is also a piece
of water in the grounds. The small
branch line which connects the railway
station and the workshops is not used
for passenger traffic. Dominating the

N. part of the garden is a black rock
called Naubat Pahar, “the Guard
R410 ," which is very picturesque.
Fateh Maidan, a plain that lies be-
tween the blaek rock and Chadar
Ghat, is the Nizam’s polo-ground.
Near the public gardens is the Saifa-
bad Cantonment of the Nizam's regular
troops. It is very neatly laid out.
There is an old mosque here built by
Khairatbai. The powder-magazine is
believed to be her tomb.
The Residency stands about 1 m.
N.W. of the city in a suburb called
Chadar Ghat, and is surrounded by a
bazaar containing 12,000 inhabitants.
The grounds are extensive, and full of
grand old trees, and are enclosed by a.
wall, which was strengthened by Colonel
Davidson after the attack u on the
Residency on the morning of 1 th July
1857. That attack was made by a
band of Rohillas and others, and was
repulsed by the troops at the Residency
under Maj or Briggs, Military Secretary.
Bastions were then erected commanding
the approaches, but the place was not
attac ed again.
On the site of the Residency there
was formerly a villa belon ‘ng to a
favourite of Nizam ’Ali, an in it Sir
John Kennaway, who was ap ointed
Resident in 1788, was receive . The
present Residency was built 1803-8.
The N. front, at which is the Grand
Entrance, looks away from the Musi
river and the city. In the stately hall
is a picture of General Cubbon at one
end and a portrait of the Raj ah of Mysore
at the other. Between them is a picture
of Chandu Lal in a white turban and
robe. The chandeliers cost a prodigious
sum, and the lighting of the Residency
in former times for a single reception-
night entailed an expense of £1000.
On such occasions the crowd was so
great and the number of those who
tried to force an entrance so excessive
that swords were often drawn. While
the male visitors were received by the
Resident, their wives were entertained
in a. mansion attached to the Resi-
dency, called the Rang Mahal. This
was built by Colonel Kirkpatrick, a
former Resident, who married an Indian
princess, and built this palace for her


340 ROUTE 25.
I who
WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
here for prayer. In the centre are two
olished stone slabs, said to be taken
rom a Hindu temple.
The Nizam's Palace is on the W.
side of the Char Minar: the Chauk,
or principal street, gives access to the
Nizam’s Palace, where a gateway leads
to a quadrangle about the size of that of
Christ Church, Oxford. At the S.W.
corner of this there is a lane which leads
into a second quadrangle, in which are
generally about 2000 servants, horse-
men, etc.; a passage from the S.W.
corner of this leads into a third quad-
rangle about the size of Lincoln’s Inn
Fields, where 1000 or 2000 attendants
are generally to be found. The build-
ings on each side are handsome, and
resemble the Shah’s palace at Teheran,
but are finer. Persons invited here dis-
mount from their elephants, and are
received by the Chamberlain, who wears
a white robe. They are conducted
into a handsome pavilion, filled with
courtiers, handsomely furnished, and
with five immense chandeliers. It is
said that the palace contains 7000
persons.
During the Muharram, H. H. 's troops
to the number of 30,000 pass in proces-
sion in front of the palace, and the spec-
tacle is altogether a very magnificent
one. The procession takes place on the
10th of Muharram: it is called the
Lawyer, and is said to be in honour of
Kutb-u-din Kuli Shah, the sovereign,
who built the Char Minar and the
Mecca Musjid. Various stories are
told about this recession. It is said
that Langar (a c ain) means the chain
with which an elephant is confined,
and that Kutb-u-din Kuli Shah was
run away with by his elephant, which
suddenly became furious and rushed
about for three days, keeping the king
without food and in peril of his life.
On the third day it became tractable,
and the La/ngar was fastened on it. In
a side street 200 yds. beyond the palace
is the house in which the well-known
minister Chandu Lal died. It is a
low but highly-ornamented Hindu
house.
Beyond the Chauk, where all the
mercers live, and near the W. wall of
the city, is the vast palace of the Bomb.-

dart, which was built by the Shamsu-’l-
umara. It covers a larve space, is
handsomely furnished, and contains a
gigantic suit of armour and many
mechanical curiosities, also a number
of ostriches, which are ridden by men.
The birds travel with great speed, but
are very difficult to manage. From the
top of this palace there is a fine view
over the city. To the W. Golkonda.
Fort is seen, and the mausoleums of the
kings close by it. A silver streak be-
tween marks'the position of the Mir
’Alam tank. One can see also the Pul-
i-Pu'ramz, or Old Bridge. To the S.
the Jelwm Numa Palace is visible, and
a mosque built by the Amir Kabir.
The Jehan Numa, also built by the
Shamsu-’1-umara, in a suburb of the
same name outside the ’Aliabad Gate,
is reached by a causeway built across
rice - fields. Adjoining it is a very
long bazaar, consistin of neatly-built
houses, forming two Tong but narrow
ellipses. These houses seem to be rented
at particular times to the attendants of
great personages coming to visit the
city. Beyond is a court where there
are hundreds of soldiers, horse and foot.
At the end of this is a carpeted staircase
which leads into a reception-room. The
palace is full of curiosities of all kinds.
A morning may be passed in visiting
the Mir 'Alam Tank, which is 2 m.
from the S. wall of the city. The
lake is 7 in. round. The embankment
is formed of twenty-one granite arches
laid on their sides, presenting their
convex surfaces to the pressure of the
water. It is 1120 yds. long, and was
built by French engineers at a cost of
£80,000. There are several steamers
on the lake ; one for hire.
At 300 yds. from the bank is a.
bungalow, where you can take refresh-
ments, if you bring an with you. At
the extreme W. end 0 the lake, which
has picturesque coves and windings, is
a wooded hill about 80 ft. high,
surmounted by a building which is
the Dargah, or shrine, of Mahbub ’Alz'.
In order to see the dargah you have to
disembark and walk about a i m. away
from the lake, and then ascend a
number of steps. The dargah is a beau-
tiful structure and well placed, looking


ROUTE 25.
341
SECUNDERABAD
down on the waters of the lake that
ripple at the foot of the cliff on which
it stands. It is small but symmetrical,
and was once covered with blue tiles.
The Race-course Mullcapet is a fine
piece of level ground E. of the city.
The race-meeting is held in November,
and lasts for five days. H.H. the
Nizam gives invaluable assistance and
dispenses princely hospitality.
121 m. Secunderabad sta. at: (Hotel
and D.B.), 511; m. N. of the Haidarabad
Residency,is the British military canton-
ment; and the largest in India, covering
19 sq. m. It is 1830 ft. above sea-level.
The road from Haidarabad to Securi-
derabad, flanked on the W. by the
Hausaz'n Saugar Tank, is lined by hand-
some villas, many of them built by
wealthy natives and officials of the
Nizam’s Court. This is the fashionable
drive, and many magnificent e ui ges
may be seen here. A villa. cal e Pes-
tanji Kathi, originally built by a Parsi
who farmed the revenues, is now the
residence of Mrs. Palmer. In it is a
picture of General Palmer, who married
a Begam of Oudh. St. George's Church,
which most of the En lish inhabitants
of Chadar Ghat atten , is 200 yds. N.
of Pestanji Kothi. In the churchyard
are a number of tombs. Among them
is that of the famous William Palmer,
who was called “King Palmer," and
was the head of the great house who
banked for the Nizam. He was the
son of General Palmer and the Begam.
His tablet is eulogistic of his third
wife, on whose fortune he was sup-
ported after the failure of the house.
The Parade-ground at Secunderabad
is of immense extent, and admits of a
large brigade manoeuvring upon it.
On the N. side are many officers’
houses, the railway station, which is
handsomely built of granite, and the
church, which is large enough to hold
a European regiment. On the S. side
of the Parade-ground is the cemetery,
in which a vast number of officers are
buried. The Assembly Rooms and
theatre are conveniently situated on
the Parade- ground. Near the former
is the Mud Fo'rt, in which some artil-
lery are quartered.

At Trimalgiri, 3 m. N.E. of Secun-
derabad, is an entrenched camp. It is
so laced that theEuro eans in Bolaram
an Secunderabad cou d at once retire
into it. It is surrounded by a ditch 7
ft. deep, and a rampart rising from the
inner side of the ditch to the height of
7 ft., with a stone revetment. There
are several bastions on which guns are
mounted, and also a bomb-proof. The
camp is well supplied with water from
wells, and has a commissariat store
and bakery. The Illilitary Prison here
is popularly called Windsor Castle,
from its high tower and castellated
look. This prison stands due W. of
the S.W. bastion of the entrenchment.
The Hospital for the European in-
fantry, a handsome white building,
is due S. of the S. E. bastion.
Bolaram is the military cantonment
of the Haidarabad Contingent Force.
It is situated 6 m. N. of Secunderabad,
and 11 m. from the city of Haidarabad,
and is 1890 ft. above sea-level. In the
very pretty grounds of the Resident’s
country-house at Bolaram are swarms
of mungooses, which go about in packs
of six or seven, and are encoura ed as
destroyers of snakes, which aboun here.
[Excvnsrons rnoru HAIDARABAD.
(1 ) The Tomb of M. Raymond,at Sarur
Nagar. —This will require a whole morn-
ing or evening. The traveller will drive
or ride across the Oliphant Bridge, and
proceed 3.} m. to the S. E. of the city and
into the suburb of Samar Naga'r. He
will thus have arrived in the hunting-
grounds of H. H. the Nizam. The
country here is accidenté, rough ground
with woods enclosed in stone walls,
about 7 ft. high. lnnumerable herds
of black buck and spotted deer wander
over this tract undisturbed, for no one
rna. fire at them without permission,
and, all they have to dread is an occasional
chase from the hunting leopard, and
now and then a few shots from some
distinguished sportsman. There is a
carriage - road passing through these
grounds. The traveller will soon per-
ceive Raymond's Tomb, which stands
on very high ground. At the foot of
this eminence is a rest - house for


342 ROUTE 25.
I ndia
WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
Indians, open in front. On the high
ground above this, on a spacious
chabutamh, or terrace, is an obelisk of
gray stone, 25 ft. high, With simply the
letters J. R. on each side. Farther
S., at the end of the clmbutarah, is an
edifice like a Grecian temple, where
travellers may repose and enjoy the
air, which is here comparatively 0001,
even in August. No date is recorded ;
but the allant Frenchman in whose
honour t is fine structure has been
erected died in March 1798. General
Raymond served for several years under
Haidar ’Ali. At the time of his death
he had 15,000 well-disciplined troops
at his command, and possessed more
power than the British Resident. Each
anniversary of Raymond’s death is
celebrated at the tomb by a grand
urus, which is attended by some
thousands of irregular troops from
the city. The tomb and platform are
illuminated, salutes are fired, and
stories are told of the greatness and
kindness of Musa Rahim (son of Moses),
as he is called.
It is here that the hunting with
leopards takes place. The leopards are
generally taken in pairs, and are hooded,
' until a black buck passes near enough
to be chased. The run is generally for
about 400 yds., when the leopard over-
takes its victim, strikes it to the ground,
and sucks blood from its neck.
Haidarabad maintains a considerable
manufacture of textile fabrics, carpets,
velvets for horse-trappings, and a
material composed of cotton and silk,—
for Mohammedans must not wear pure
silk. Red earthenware is also exten-
sively made here. '
(2) GOLKONDA, 7 m. from the Char
Minar, was the capital of the Kutb
Shahi kingdom, 1512-1687, overthrown
by Aurangzib. Few persons succeed in
o taining a pass to visit the Fort with-
out the aid of the Residency officials.
The passes, when granted, are issued
by the Commandant of the Fort, who
lives usually in Haidarabad. There is
no use in going without a pass to see
the Fort, but the tombs of the kings
may be visited. The place is surrounded
by a strongly-built crenellated stone

wall or curtain, a little over 3 m. in
circumference, with 87 bastions of solid
granite blocks at the angles, on which
there are still some of the old Kutb
Shahi guns, some with their breeches
blown out, others with iron rods thrust
into them by the Emperor Aurangzib’s
orders in 1687 to render them useless.
The moat which surrounds the outer
wall is choked up with rubbish in many
places. The Fort, now used as the
Nizam’s treasury and a state prison,
originally had eight gates, but of these
four only are now in use, namely, the
Banjara, Fateh, Mecca, and Jamali.
When the first of the Nizams took
possession of the place, he added a new
wall to the fortifications on the E., so
as to include a small hill formerly situ-
ated outside the Fort walls, from which
it would have been difficult to dislodge
an enemy that had occupied the posi-
tion. The large sheet of water in front
of this portion of the Fort is styled the
Nizam Saugrvr Tank.
The Banjam Gate, which now forms
one of the chief entrances to the Fort,
is a massive structure of granite, with
chambers on either side for the guard,
and a air of high teak-wood gates
studdedp with iron wrought into
various fanciful devices and huge
sharp-pointed iron spikes, which were
intended to prevent elephants from
battering them in. The road from
here passes straight through the Fort
to the gate on the W. side. The north-
ern portion of the ground enclosed
by the wall has very few ruins upon
it, although it was at one time most
thickly populated ; indeed, the ground
inside the walls is said to have been
so valuable that it used to sell for one
ashrafi (20 rs.) per yard. The eastern
and southern portions are strewn with
the ruins of palaces, mosques, and the
dwelling-houses of the nobles and re-
tainers of the Kutb Shahi kings. A
short distance from the gate just men-
tioned is a huge stone cistern. Beyond
the cavalry lines are the Nau Mahal
(nine palaces) of the Nizams. They
are surrounded by a high wall, and
stand in the midst of a pleasant garden
of orange and other fruit trees. The
court used frequently to be held here.


ROUTE 25.
GOLKONDA 343
Beyond the Nan Mahal the ruins
thicken. It is, however, impossible to
identify most of them. There is a
lofty granite structure, said to have
been used as a Nakar Khana (music-
room), or Madrissa (college), which
forms the entrance to the first line of
the Bala Hisar, or citadel fortifica-
tion. A little to the right of this is
the Jumma Musjid, a small building.
An Arabic inscription over the gate-
way states that it was erected in 1569
A. D.
The Bald Hisar is on the summit
of the hill, enclosed by the Fort walls.
Its height above the plain may be
roughly estimated at 400 ft. Passing
through a garden, the Bela Hisar
Gate is reached. It is one of the
largest in the Fort, and has been put
in good repair. Adjoining the gate-
way on the right side are the ruins
of the quarters of the garrison main-
tained here in the time of the Kutb
Shahi monarchs. Opposite the quarters
of the garrison is a vast upper-storied
building of granite, called the Sili
Kluma, or armoury, where spare arms
and ammunition were kept. From
here the ascent to the summit is
accomplished by a series of roughly-
paved steps. Half-way up is a large
well, from which the garrison used to
get its water-supply.
A short distance from here are the
ruins of the Amber Khana, or king’s
treasure-house. A block of granite
which has fallen from its position over
the entrance contains a Persian in-
scription to the effect that it was
erected in the reign of Abdullah Kutb
Shah, 1642 A. D. Here the last line of
wall which encircles the citadel is
reached. In its construction advan-
tage has been taken of the huge
boulders, which have in some instances
been made the bases of the wall. The
masonry must be several hundred years
old.
On the summit of the hill formerly
stood the King’s Palace, the ruins of
which still form a conspicuous object.
The front appears to have been oc-
cupied b a lar e courtyard, sur-
rounded y buil ' gs, very few of
which, however, how remain. On the

W. side are the ruins of the palace,
the walls of which are of a great thick-
ness. The building appears to have
been su ported on lofty arches, most
of whic are still standing. In one
corner there is a large circular opening,
said to be the entrance of a subterranean
passa e extending to the Gosha Mahal,
3m. istant. Most probably, however,
the passage, if there is one, extends
only as far as the lower fortifications.
A stone staircase in the W. side of the
building leads to the roof, which is flat,
and is surmounted by a small stone
takht, or throne.
The view from here, embracing as it
does many miles of country, is at all
times charming, and well worth the
rather fatiguing climb from below.
To the E. lies the present capital,
Haidarabad, surrounded with gardens,
from amidst which domes and spires
shoot up towards the sky ; in the fore-
ground is the beautiful Mir ’Alam Tank ;
far away to the N. is the cantonment
of Secunderabad and the Koh Sheriff
(Maul Ali hill). Below lie the ruins
of the once famous Kutb Shahi capital,
intersected with the massive-looking
fortifications which gave Aurangzib
much more trouble than he anticipated,
and which, but for treachery within,
would probably have resisted all his
efforts. In the Lower Fort, on the N.
side, there is a deer preserve belonging
to H.H. the Nizam, who sometimes
comes to shoot here. In the plain
outside the walls of the Fort are the
remains of two stone platforms with
seats, from which the kings used to
review their troops. 1 m. to the N. W.,
built upon two eminences, are the
mehdam' and Musy'id of Bagmati
(after whom Haidarabad was first
called Bhagnagar), a favourite mis-
tress of the Kutb Shah king, Muham-
mad Kuli. Beyond the Banjara Gate
are the massive tombs of all the
Golkonda kings. On all sides rise
masses of granite and low hills, taking
the most fantastic shapes, and some-
times appearing like subsidiary forts
erected by the hand of man. The
popular legend as regards the peculi-
arity of their position and appearance
is that the Creator after finishing the


344 ROUTE 25.
India.
WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
construction of the world threw away
the surplus material here.
The Kings' Tombs.—On the plain
to the N. and E., about 600 yds. from
the fortress, stand the tombs of the
Kutb Shahi kings, who reigned here
for u wards of 170 years. Most of
them have suffered from decay and the
hands of visitors, who have not
scrupled to plunder the enamelled tiles
and other architectural adornments
which once contributed to place them
among the best and most remarkable
Mohammedan mausolea in the Deccan.
During the long siege of ~Golkonda
in 1687 the tombs and the gardens
which surrounded them were converted
into barracks and camping-grounds by
Aurangzib's soldiers. It is said that
pieces of artillery were also mounted
upon them wherewith to bombard the
Fort. The last of the Kutb Shahi
kings, Abu-’l-Hassan, had partly finished
the erection of his own sepulchre, when
he was sent off by his imperial captor
to end his days in the fortress of
Daulatabad. He died there in 1701,
and is the only one of the Kutb Shahis
not interred here. His unfinished
tomb is the farthest from the Fort, and
is completely in ruins. After the
departure of the captive king and his
conqueror, the tombs, neglected and
deserted, soon began to show signs of
decay. In this condition they re-
mained till the late Sir Salar Jang
had those that were not too much
ruined carefully repaired, and re-
planted the gardens which had formerly
existed around some of them. The
late minister also enclosed seven tombs,
which are all built within a short dis-
tance of each other, with a substantial
stone wall, and planted the gardens,
through which pleasantly laid-out
walks lead to each tomb, with fine
shade and fruit trees. The tombs
standing within this enclosure are
those of Jamshid Kuli, the second
king, who died in 1550; Haiyat Baksh
Begam, the daughter of Ibrahim Kuli
Kutb Shah, and the wife of Sultan
Muhammad, the fifth king, and the
mother of Sultan Abdulla Kutb Shah,
the sixth and last but one of the Kutb
Shahi line (the date of her death, as in-

scribed on the tomb, is 1027 A. H. = 1617
A.D.), etc. Outside the walled en-
closure and garden, to the N., is the
tomb of Muhammad Kuli Kutb Shah,
who died in 1035 A.H. =1625 A.D. This
king founded the city of Haidarabad,
and erected many public edifices and
palaces. This is the finest of the
tombs, and is 168 ft. high from the
basement to the summit of the dome,
the latter being 60 ft. high. Beyond
this is the tomb of Ibrahim Kuli Kutb
Shah, the fourth king, who died in
988 A.H. =1580 A.D. To the S. of it is
the tomb of Sultan Muhammad Amin,
king Ibrahim’s youngest son, who died
in 1004 A.H. =1595 an. A short dis-
tance from here in a N. direction is the
tomb of Kulsum Begam, and close to
it is that of the first of the Kutb
Shahi kings, Sultan Kuli Kutb, who
died in 950 A.H. =1543 A.D. Between
the walled enclosure already alluded to
and the Fort walls is the tomb of the
sixth king, Abdulla Kutb Shah, who
died in 1083 A.H.= 1672 an, after a
reign of forty-eight years. This is one
of the finest tombs here, being enriched
with very fine carvings and minarets
at each corner of the platform.
The diamonds of Golkonda, which
have become proverbial, were cut and
polished here, but came principally
from Purlial, on the S.E. frontier of
the Nizam’s territory.
(3) 78 m. by road N. W. of Haidara-
bad is the renowned city of Bidar.
The majority of the palaces, mosques,
and other buildings with which the
Bahmani kings (who were overthrown
by the Kutb Shahi dynasty in 1512)
adorned their capital are now in ruins,
but there is enough remaining to give
an idea of the former magnificence of
the place. The Madrissa, or college,
and the filosquc are amongst the most
remarkable. The walls are fine and
are well preserved. Bidar is famous
for ornamental metal, called Bidri-
work. The metal is composed of an
alloy of copper, lead, tin, and zinc.
It is worked into fancy articles orna-
mented with silver and gold]
Leaving Secunderabad, the N izam's
State Rly. continues E. to
6.


346 ROUTE 26.
1 "din,
GADAG JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
from Pegu, silks of China and Alex-
andria and Cuinabar, camphor, musk,
pepper, and sandal from Malabar.
The palaces of the king and his
ministers and the temples are described
as “stately buildings of stone," but
the greater part of the po ulation
lived in “hovels of straw an mud.”
In the travels of Caesar Frederick the
palace is thus spoken of : “ I have seen
many kings’ courts, yet have never
enclosing several hills. The ordinary
dwellings were mean buildings with
earthen walls, but the three palaces and
the agodas were all built of fine marble.
T e first remarkable building is the
King's or Ladies' Bath, forming a por-
tion of the king’s palace. It is a rec-
tangular building, aboutfl: m. from the
D. B., with a hauz, or reservoir, in the
centre 50 ft. square and 6 ft. deep, in
which fountains played; but there is no






l



VIJAYANAGAR, HAMPI, AND ANAOUNDI.
1. Commencement of Bridge.
2. Ruins of old Bridge.
3. Temple of Vitoba.
4. Veerpaksh.
I)
seen anything to compare with the
royal palace of Bijianuggur, which
hath nine gates. First, when you go
into that part where the king lodged,
there are five eat gates, kept by
captains and sol iers. Within are four
lesser gates, which are kept by porters,
and through these you enter into a
very fair court at the end.” He
describes the city as being 24 in. round,
5. Temple on high pile of rocks.
6. King’s Sleeping Palace.
7. Statue of Ganesh.
8. Temple to Krishna.
water now, and this structure has been
a good deal injured. At the entrance
are remains of the granite aqueduct
which was carried from near the throne
to the bath. The corridor of the bath,
supported 'by twenty pillars, has an
arched ceiling, richl carved with
flowers. On either si e is a. projecting
gallery ornamented with carving. N.W.
of this is a granite aqueduct. The


ROUTE 26.
347
EXCURSION TO VIJAYANAGAR AND HAMPI
stones forming the trough measure
about 11 ft. x 6 ft. , the supports are 5
ft. 8 in. high. About 50 yds. N. W. of
the aqueduct is a cluster of remains,
including the Elephant Stables, the
Zenana, the Treasury, rather mean
buildings of Tipu Sultan’s time, and
a. structure which the guide calls the
Throne. It is of granite, and consists
of a succession of platforms 31 ft. high,
the outer walls of which are carved in
relief with representations of elephants,
dancing-girls, hunting-scenes from the
Ramayuna, and camels, well executed.
An inner staircase leads from the ground
to the top of the platforms, and 150 yds.
to the W. is an underground passage
which does not seem to have been ex-
plored. Some yards to the W. of the
Throne is a flight of steps which leads
to the top of a structure, where it is
said the Rajah sat to see his horses
drink milk, and 40 yds. to the N. is a
stone trough, a monolith, 42 ft. long
by 11 ft. 10 in. in circumference. To
the N. of this about 100 yds. is a temple.
The pillars are handsomely carved in
relief with figures. The quadrangle,
inside measurement, is 110 ft. from N.
to 3., and 200 ft. from E. to W. The
temple has a vestibule carried on
twelve pillars. The adytum is sup-
ported by black pillars most elabor-
ately carved. On the plinth of the
left gateway is a very long inscription
in Old Kanarese. The stones of which
this temdple is built average 7 ft. 7 in.
long an 2 ft. 6 in. deep. Here for 1
m. the débris of great solid buildings
cover the ground. The fatigue of clam-
bering over them is considerable.
The second day may be spent in
crossing the ruins from S. to N., that is
from the D. B. to Anagimdi, a distance
of 4 In. All this extent of ground is
covered with the wrecks of granite
structures, and on the strange rocks
around, formed of huge tors,1 split
up and weathered into the semblance
of boulders piled one on the other, are
seen temples covering them to the very
summit. The traveller would do well

to mount a pony on this expedition,
although the ascents and descents are so
steep and so slippery that it will be
necessary to dismount from time to time.
On the right is a hill crowned with a.
large temple, to visit which is the
labour of a day. Farther to the W. is
what the guide calls the oldest temple
in Vijayanagar. Little except two
gopu'ras (ornamented gateways) is left.
Round the door of the first opura is a
very long inscription in 01 Kanarese.
In the second there is a Nagri inscription
on the right, and a Kanarese on the left.
The bases of the pillars are carved to
represent a man riding on a yali, which
is rearing up. The extensive ruins
around show that the temple to which
these gopuras belonged was of great
size. Near here on a granite mound
stand three Jain Bastis: observe their
turned pillars of polished black stone,
ornamented with graceful beaded fes-
toons and bells, after the style of the
beautiful bastis of Srivanah Belgula,
and Hullabid (Rte. 27). Beyond this,
in the same direction, is what is called
the Kasbin Bazaar, with a stone arcade
on either side. It is 122 ft. broad from
E. to W., and 1127 ft. long from S. to
N., and must have been a most magni-
ficent street or market-place. About 1
m. from this you come to a solidly-
built temple to Rama, on the bank of
a branch of the Tungabhadra river, 100
yds. broad, and very deep. In the
adytum of this temple are grotesque
modern images of Rama, Lakshman,
Sita, and Hanuman. Rama stands in
the middle, with his brother on his
right, and Sita on his left. At the
door are images of dwarpals, 3 ft. high,
of Garuda, and Hanuman. Opposite
the temple is a magnificent tree of the
Ficus indica species, with a good carving
of the Shesh Nag at its foot. This
is an excellent place for tiflin and rest.
The road now turns to the right along
the river. A vast old Math, or monas-
tery, is now )asscd on the right, which
was tenante till about 1840. About
100 yds. be end this are the remains of
a stone bri ge 1 over the Tungabhadra,
1 The hills fonning the back-bone of the
peninsula of India and their weathering give
a clue to puzzling formations in the Dartmoor
and other granite districts of Great Britain.
1 There are remarkable examples of these
bridges at Seringapatam, and near the Falls
of the Cauvery.


348 ROUTE 26.
India
GADAG JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
built without mortar, clamp, or tenon.
The structure is a simple jam and cram
of rough granite blocks, notched at the
edges by a process of quarrying still in
practice. A line of small hollows is
worked in a smooth surface of rock ; a
little straw is burnt over the hollows ;
water is poured in, and the rock splits
along the line of hollows to the depth
of several inches. Beyond this again
is a gateway which may have been one
of the gates of the fort. It is built of
great granite blocks 10 ft. long, the
stone thwarts which support the roof
being from 13 to 15 ft. A few yards
beyond this you pass under a singular
structure of anite, which the guide
says was use for weighing goods, but
more probably to weigh great person-
ages against gold. It is made of three
granite blocks, two upri hts and a trans-
verse piece. The uprig ts are 20 ft. 10
in. high, and the thwart piece 14 ft. 7
in. long.
Some 200 yards beyond this are
three granite temples, which are
called the Walt, the Sugrioa, and the
Tam—the last-named being the wife of
Wali. It is, however, in reality very
doubtful to which deity the temples
were dedicated. The very numerous
carvin of monkeys in one of the three
especia ly, and more or less in the
others, make it probable that they
were dedicated to Wali, his brother,
and his wife. Mr. Fergusson, at p.
374, ascribes to Vitoba, a local mani-
festation of Vishnu, the one which the
local people refer to Wali, erected 1529-
1542 A.D., but never finished.1 The
shrine of this great temple was never
filled ; it was never psed as a place of
worship, nor was it ever formally con-
secrated. The legend is that in the
plenitude of their power the Rajahs of
Vijayanagar determined to bring the
holy image of Krishna which is at
Pandarpur to Vijayanagar, and built
this temple to exceed in beauty every-
thing before erected in the Deccan to
receive it ; but whether it was, as the
Brahmans inform visitors, that the god
_1 See_also the Indian Antiquary, v01. ii. p.
ll§, which gives an extract from the Bellaru
mam: Manual, by J. Kelsal], M.C.S., which
says: “ The finest temples of all are about 1
m. lower down the river."

would not move ; or that, having come
to look at the new temple, said it was
too 00d for him ; or because attention
was iverted by serious troubles with the
Mohammedans, the removal was never
accomplished. The three temples stand
in an enclosure which has four low
gopuras; they are good examples of the
Dravidian style. There is a stone rut,
or car, close to the temple on the right,
as you enter the enclosure, and two
stone pavilions for lodging travellers.
The temple on the right has an inner
chamber with twelve pillars which
support a singularly massive entabla-
ture 8 ft. high, on which rests the roof,
which is very richly carved, and has a
large lotus in the centre. The veran-
dah or corridor that surrounds this
inner space has twenty pillars. The
pavement in the centre, consisting of
immense granite slabs, has been torn
up, no doubt in search of treasure.
The pillars are magnificently carved
with representations of men riding on
yalis, and many of them have bracket-
shafts. The stone car which stands
a few aces from the temple just
describe is 26 ft. 4 in. high, sadly
disfigured in 1803 by an ill-jud ed
“restoration” in chunam. The is.-
meter of the wheels is 4 ft. 3 in.
Whether the car was ever moved is
doubtful. The wheels can be moved,
and the sockets in which the axle works
are worn and chafed as if by movement.
The second temple, which is on the
left of the entrance into the enclosure,
is much the largest, and perhaps the
finest. The ceiling was formed of slabs
of granite 35 ft. long, but all the slabs
have been thrown down exee tone in
the centre. Two slabs stan against
the wall, and are 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and
2 ft. thick. In the centre of the ceil-
ing (so it appears from what remains
on the centre slab) was an ornament
representing birds and flowers, appar-
ently the chakor and the lotus. These
have been painted blue and other
colours. There are fourteen columns,
which supported the roof. Most of
them are carved into representations
of horsemen mounted on yalis. One
represents the Narsing Avatar. In
some cases the yalis are supported by


ROUTE 26.
349
EXCURSION TO VIJAYANAGAR AND HAMPI
elephants. The pavement consists of
huge granite slabs. One is 12 ft. 7 in.
long, and 7 ft. 6 in. broad, and the
others are about that size. Within
is a court 100 ft. long from E. to W.,
and 62 ft. broad from N. to S. This
temple is thought by some to have
been sacred to Vishnu, and the repre‘
sentation of the Narsing Avatar makes
this probable. On the S. side are
numerous Kanarese inscriptions. S. of
the temple is a large dharmsala with
sixty-two pillars, on which are curious
reliefs of female monkeys and dwarfs,
so this may be the Tara temple. On
the right of the entrance is a platform
with thirty-nine shorter pillars. These
were carved with most curious represent-
ations of monkeys, their heads crowned
with two small figures of gods. The
third temple is some 20 yds. N. of the
rut. It is 30 ft. long from E. to W.,
and 28 ft. 9 in. from N. to S. It is
probably sacred to Wali and Sugriva.
From this the traveller may go 1i m.
to the E. to the bank of the Tunga-
bhadra opposite Anagundi. There is
a large tree which affords some shelter
from the sun while waiting for the
ferry-boats, which are circular baskets
covered with bulloek hides and 10 ft.
in diameter, the Indian form of coracle.
They will each take twenty persons, or
a palki with twelve bearers. The boats
are safe but inconvenient. There are
some inches of water at the bottom of
the basket, and passengers sit on the
edge or rim. The bed of the river and
its sides are very rocky. As soon as you
land on the N. side you are in the
Nizam’s dominions. 30 yds. from the
landing-place isasmall temple to Ganesh,
sheltered by a tree, and 10 yds. farther
on is the Gate of Anagzmdi, which has
been a fort built of granite. The palace
of the Rajah of Anagundi, who is also
Rajah of Vijayanagar, is one-third of a
mile from the gate. It is a square house
of very massive construction. Beyond
this, i m. , is a Shiva temple overlooking
the river, which is there very shallow,
trickling over a sheet of rock.
Returning to the S. side of the river,
some hours may be devoted to a visit
to the Pagoda on the high hill to the
E. of the Kasbin Bazaar, but the ruins

are not interesting. The ascent is
excessively steep, and the Pagoda,
which is sacred to Markand, is un-
important, but the view over the ruins
is one that will repay the visitor for
his fatigue. The Tungabhadra is seen
flowing on the W., with high granite
hills in the distance to the W. S. of
the ruins is seen a broad road which
leads from the D. B. down to the
Tungabhadra. Beyond this road and
S. of it is a line of fortifications, the
granite wall of which, about 18 ft. high,
has been in many places thrown down.
Although the ruins are piled in almost
undistinguishable masses, still the
course of two principal streets parallel
to the river can be indistinctly traced.
A day must be given to the W. and
N.W. portion of the ruins and Hampi,
and here a pony may be used. The
traveller should leave the bungalow at
dawn and go W. by a good broad
road. In about ten minutes an octa-
gonal chawadi is reached. It has a
corridor running round an inner
chamber about 12 ft. in diameter,
in very fair preservation. 1 m. be-
yond this you come to an ancient
temple of Shiva, attested by a figure
of Nandi and carvings of cobras.
Beyond this to the W. is a gigantic
image of the Narsing Avatar, carved
out of a single block of granite. The
figure is that of a colossal lion-headed
man with enormous projecting circular
eyes and a huge month. A spirited
carving of the Shesh Nag forms the
canopy of the idol, which is seated,
and has its legs and arms broken.
From the top of the Shesh Nag to the
floor of the pedestal on which the idol
sits is 22 ft. 6 in. This idol is in an
enclosure of ponderous granite blocks.
The monolithic uprights at the door
are 18 ft. 8 in. high out of the ground.
Just outside the gate is an upright
stone with a Kanarese inscription on
both sides. A few yards from this en-
closure is a. small temple containing a
huge Lingam and Yoni. This is no
doubt the largest representative of
these objects of worship existing.
Near is a vast temple to Krishna.
It is enclosed in a granite wall. The
breadth of the chief court is 200 ft.


350 ROUTE 26.
I miia
GADAG JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
from N. to S., and the length 320 ft.
from E. to W. A gopura leads into
it. At the entrance is a stone 8 ft.
high, with a Kanarese inscription on
both sides. There is also on the columns
of the gopura an inscription in Nagri
and Kanarese. The pavement in the
centre of the temple has been torn
up in search of treasure. The roof is
supported by six rows of pillars, and
in the porch are thirty-six pillars, and
four at the steps. Other two parts
of the temple are so much ruined and
defaced as not to admit of distinct
description. Leaving this temple, one
finds at about 50 y s. on the left of
the road a temple with a hu e Ganesh
10 ft. high; and a few yar s farther
on is another, vastly solid, built of
granite, dedicated to Ganesh, in which
the idol is 18 ft. high. The visitor will
remark the size of the enormous granite
slabs which form the roof. After passing
this temple, the precincts of what is
now called Hampi are entered, and
monkeys of the Langur kind, but not
large, here show themselves in con-
siderable numbers. The visitor will
now descend for 70 yds. a granite
pavement cut into many small steps,
and pass on the left a square building
which may have been a math. He
will then come under the shade of
some gigantic trees and arrive at the
portal of the great temple of Hampi,
which is sacred to Shiva. The gopura
at the N. entrance is truly gigantic,
and taken in all its dimensions is
perhaps the largest in India. It is im-
possible to ascend beyond the eleventh
story, but from the basement of that
to the ground the height is 133 ft. 5 in.,
and above it there is solid masonry for
30 or 40 ft. After that comes the Shikr,
which is now broken, but must have
been about 30 ft. high, so that when
it was intact the total height must
have been over 200 ft. The gopura
is 85 ft. from E. to W., and is im-
mensely solid. The length of the first
quadran le from E. to W. is 208 ft. ,
and its readth from N. to S. 134 ft.
The second uadrangle is larger, and
has arcades a 1 round built of granite.
The authorities of the temple will not
allow a European, excepting officials,

to go farther than a few steps beyond
the second gopura, under which is the
entrance to this second quadrangle, nor
will they permit any closer examination
of the building. Returning S.E. 2 m.
the visitor will reach the Zemmuz. The
outer wall is about 20 ft. high, and
built entirely of granite. The buildings
within have for the most part been
thrown down. At the corners of the en-
closure in which this building is there
have been towers, and two remain. At
one corner of the enclosure is a building
which was probably a pavilion for the
ladies. It has been covered with fine
white cement. Close by it is a door,
beyond which are many ruins and a
temple to Hanuman, with avery spirited
relief of the Monkey-god. E. of the
zenana are the Elepham Stables. S. of
the zenana, at the distance of 150 yds.,
is a monolithic and subterraneous
temple or house, with three chambers]
443 m. Toranagullu sta. Remark to
the N. the grand piece of water the
Da'rqii Tank, one of a series, most of
them completely silted up, with small
forest plantations near it.
463 m. Bellary sta. (R. ), D. B. (V ala-
ham'). A municipal town and large
military station, capital of district of
same name. Pop. 53,000. There are ex-
tensive cotton-mills here. A spur from
the Sandur range runs along the S. side
of the cantonment of Bellary, and ex-
tends E. to Budihal, 8 in. distant, where
it abruptly terminates. A high point
in this range is opposite to the Fort of
Bellary, and within 4 m. of it, and is
called the Copper Mountain, the height
being 1600 ft. above the plain, and 2800
ft. above the sea. Excavations are still
to be seen, said to be the remains of
mines worked by order of Haidar ’Ali,
but abandoned in consequence of the
expense exceeding the profit. Besides
copper, haematitic iron ore is found in
large quantities, some of which possesses
magnetic properties.
It is an easy climb up to the Fort,
built on a bare granite rock of semiv
elliptical form, rising abruptly from
the plain to the height of 450 ft.,
and about 2 m. in circumference. The


ROUTE 26.
351
GUNTAKAL—KURNOOL, ETC-
rook is defended by two distinct lines
of works, constituting the lower and
upper forts, both built of granite. In
the upper one, the summit of which
is flat and of considerable extent, stands
the citadel, which is re uted to be of
great antiquity, and mig t be rendered
almost impregnable. It afi'ords, how-
ever, no accommodation for troops,
and is consequently never occupied
except by a small guard. The cells for
the military prisoners are built within
it. Several tanks or cisterns have been
hollowed out in the rock to hold rain-
water: the system of their construc-
tion is worthy of notice. The lower
fort, which is of more recent construc-
tion, consists of low bastions connected
together by curtains. Its shape is
quadrangular; it has a dr ditch and
covered way in front, an surrounds
the base of the rock from its S.W. to
its N. E. angle.
The lower fort was built by Tipu in
1792. Observe on the way up many
beautiful specimens of umbrella trees,
called in Kanarese Tumma. chettu, the
flowers of which are very fragrant.
The upper fort has six bastions, and
deep cavities always full of fresh water.
There is a granite pillar 36 ft. high,
with figures of Hanuman and other
deities close to an ancient, squat pagoda
sacred to Shiva.
The present fortifications were built
by a staff of French engineers, tradi-
tion adding that after the new citadel
had been completed Haidar 'Ali hanged
the French engineers at the gate,
as he found that his fort was com-
manded by another rock. The place
came into possession of the British
in 1800.
The Arsenal is at the foot of the
Fort Rock in the S.W. angle. A tank
lies to the S. of the Fort, fed by a
stream. The N.I. regiment lines are
at the extreme S.W. of the cantonment.
The barracks of the English Infantry
are 1% m. to the N.E. Here are Trinity
Church and the Roman Catholic
Church. There is also a handsome
church, built at the expense of Mr.
Abraham, of fine white stone, brought
from Shahabad. The timber used in
it is teak.

493 m. Guntakal junc. sta. De-
scribed i_n Rte. 22.
43 m. from Guntakal Kumool Road
sta., * D.B.
[From here Kurnool (Karmd) is dis-
tant 33 m. N. by road. This is the
C'mwul of Orme. Pop. 20,000. A civil
station. The town stands at the junc-
tion of the Hindi-i and Tungabhadra
rivers. The old fort was dismantled
in 1862, but four bastions and three
gates still stand. Troops were stationed
in it until 1871, and it still contains
the palace of the Nawabs. There is
a fine mausoleum of Abdul Wahab,
the first N awab, and several mosques.
17 m. up stream at Su'nkcsala are the
head works of the canal ; the journey
can be done in a canal boat]
90 m. Nandyal sta. Called from
Nandi, the bull of Shiva. There are
several Shivite temples here. It is a
rising place, and before reaching it the
line passes through the Gerramalai
Hills y many picturesque curves.
154 m. Cumbum sta. (R.)
259 m. Guntur sta. (R.)
276 m. Kistna Terminus or Bezwada
sta. (R.) This is also the terminus of
the Nizam's State Rly. from Wadi,
Haidarabnd, and VVarangal. A11 import-
ant trading-place on the most frequented
crossing of the Kistna river. Canals
connect the place with Madras, Ellore,
Masulipatam, Cocanda, and Rajah-
mandri. A fort was erected here in
1760, but has since been dismantled.
There are rock-cut Buddhist temples
and Hindu pagodas. In making ex-
cavations for the canals many remains
were exposed which show that the place
was in the Buddhist period a consider-
able religious centre.
It is a town with 9000 inhabitants,
and is situated on the left bank of the
Kistna, 45 m. from its mouth. It is
shut in on the W. by a granite ridge
600 ft. high, running N. and S., and
ending in a scarp at the river. At
right angles to this ridge, and g, m.
from the stream, is a similar ridge
sheltering the town on the N.


352 ROUTE 26.
India
GADAG JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
Close to the E. end of the N. ridge is
a sharp-pointed detached mass of
gneiss, on which are Buddhistic caves
and cells. On the S. side of the river,
opposite to Bezwada, is a hill similar
to the W. ridge of which it is a con-
tinuation. It is 450 ft. high, and from
Bezwada seems a perfect cone. On
the S. side of the river, 1 m. to the “7.,
is the Undavilli Cave-Temple. The
rock-cuttings on the hill to the W. of
Bezwada are made perpendicularly
down the rock, which forms the side of
a prism, and they leave a platform
half-way down, on which buildings
were placed by the Buddhists. One
such cutting gives a cave 77 ft. deep
x 30 ft. broad, with a perpendicular
rocky face, and about 45 ft. high.
At a little distance to the S. of the
town there is an enormous rock. It
was there that the Master of the Shas-
tras attained the rank of Buddha. An
inscription on a pillar in the Tern )le of
Amararshnaraswami, in Bezwa a, is
dated 1283 S.S.=1361 A.D. On the
crest of the hill is a bungalow built
when the weir, or Aneikat, at Bezwada
was being made. A statue of Buddha
in black granite was removed from the
highest point of this hill to the library
at Bezwada. Another bungalow, be-
longing to the Church Missionaries, has
been erected on the platform, from
which steps ascend to the top of the
hill. On the ridge to the W. of the
town the remains cluster thickly. The
perpendicular cliff at the back has been
roughly carved with representations of
Hindu deities. Passing it, you come
to a modern temple to Kanaka Par-
gamma. There is also a figure with
illegible writing in characters of the
6th or 7th century, and an inscription
in old Telugu.
In the town of Bezwada are old
shrines with inscri tions from the 7th
century downwar s. The caves of
Bezwada are hollowed out of the E.
side of the great hill at the foot of
which Bezwada stands. At the foot of
the hill, at the N.E. corner of the town,
is a small rock-temple with a figure of
Venayakudu, or Ganesh. Then come
several cells and a good-sized man.
dapam. with pillars of the solid rock.

In the temple of Malleshwar Swami,
which is in the town, are some figures
and pillars much older than the temple
itself. Beside the colossal figure of
Buddha in black granite, which came
from the hill to the E. of Bezwada,
and is now in the Library, there is
another colossal figure of Buddha in the
enclosure of the rest-house for native
travellers at Gudivada. The features
are very fine, the hair woolly. A seven-
headed serpent forms a canopy for the
statue's head. The Brahmans call it
Muneshwaraswami, and claim Sakya
Muni as a Brahmanical deity.
[In order to reach Undavilli village,
the traveller must cross the Kistna
from Bezwada and go 1% m. up the
course of the river above and \V. of
Sitanagaram. There is a rock-temple
of two stories close to the village, and
also a large one of four stories, the
lower story being buried in debris.
This is a Buddhistic temple converted
to the worship of Anantaswami, or
Vishnu. In the third story is a hall
supported by solid rock pillars repre-
senting the rape of Sita by Havana, and
the search for her and her rescue by
Hanuman, and the defeat of Ravana by
Rama. At the end of the hill is a
gigantic figure of the Narsing Avatars.
recumbent on the Shesh Nag, and with
two large and several smaller figures at
his feet. There are some remains of
painting on them. An inscription near
the temple records a grant b a Reddi
chief not earlier than the 13t century.
17 in. W. of Bezwada by road is
Amravati, on the right or S. bank of
the Kistna river. It is a place of much
interest to antiquarians as an ancient
centre of the Buddhist religion, and
the site of a great tope, of which, how-
ever scarcely anything remains in situ.
See Fergusson‘s Hist. of Ind. Arch. pp.
71, 7-2, 93, 99, 102. What there is
lies to the S. of the town, just beyond
the outer huts. Before 1790 it pre-
sented the appearance of a very large
low tumulus crowned by a smaller one
about 30 yds. in diameter, and 20 ft.
high, which had been covered with
brick, and was locally known as Dipal-


ROUTE 27.
353
HUBLI TO HULLABID AND BANGALORE
dinnc, or the Hill of Light. N. and
N.W. of Amravati are the sites of
former diamondworkings, all 011 the
N. bank of the river.]
ROUTE 27
HUBLI JUNCTION T0 HULLABID AND
BANGALORE.
Hublijunc. sta. (It) is between Londa
junc. and Gadag junc., and 127 m. by
rail E. of Marinagoa harbour on the
W. coast.
81 m. Harihar sta. (R.) on the rt.
bank of the Tungabhadra. In 1868 a
very fine bridge was constructed over
the river. Harihar is said to have
been in primeval ages the capital of a
'ant named Guhasur, and to have
can so extensive that the E. gate was
71 In. 011' at Huchangi Durga, the \V.
at Mudanur, the N. at Airani, the S.
at Govinahalu. An inscription on
co per has been found here of the
7tii century, and there are several of the
12th. The temple was erected in 1223.
In 1268 additions were made by Sonia,
the founder of Somnathpur in the
M sore district, where there is a
s lendid temple. In 1277 Saluva
ikkama built a temple to Mahadeva.
The Kings of Vijayanagar bestowed
many benefactions on these temples
down to the 16th centur . After the
fall of Vijayanagar, the 'larikere chiefs
seized the place and built the fort.
178 m. Banawar sta.
[The renowned ruins of Hullabid lie
20 m. S.W. from this point by road;
past Jamgalu (12 m.) At 10 m.
beyond in the same direction is Bcl'ur.
We take these places on the return
journey to the railway station.
Belur (or Baillur), in lat. 13° 10', long.
[India]

75° 55’, on the rt. bank of the Yagache,
23 In. N .W. of Hasan, is a municipal
town, op. about 3000. In the Puranas
and olld inscriptions it is called Vela-
pura, and is styled the S. Benares.
Hereis the famous tern )le of Chenna
Kesava, erected and en owed by the
Ho sala king, Vishnu Vardhana, on
excian ing the Jain faith for that
of Vishnu in the beginning of the
12th century. The carving with which
it is decorated rivals in design and
finish that of Hullabid, and is the
work of the same artist, Jakanachari.
The image of Chenna Kesava is said
to have been brou ht from the Baba
Budan hills, but tiat of his oddess
was left behind, which obliges rim to
pa her a visit there at stated inter-
va s. .At p. 395 of F ergusson’s Hist. qf
Arch, will be found a plan of the
temple here, which he calls the Great
Temple at Baillur. It stands within
a high wall which surrounds a court,
440 ft.><360 ft. In this court are,
besides the Great Temple, four or five
smaller ones. On the E. front are two
fine gopuras. “It consists," says Mr.
Fergusson, “of a very solid vimanah,
with an ante'rala, or porch ; and in front
of thisaporch 0f the usual star-like form,
measuring 90 ft. across. The arrange-
ments of the pillars have much of that
pleasing subordination and variety of
spacin which is found in those of the
J ains, ut we miss here the octagonal
dome, which gives such poetry and
meaning to t e arrangements they
adopted. Instead of these we have
only an exag erated compartment in
the centre, WliCh fits nothing, and,
though it does give dignity to the
centre, it does it so clumsily as to be
almost ofi‘ensive in an architectural
sense.” The windows to the porch
are 28, and all different. Some are
pierced with star-shaped, conventional
patterns, and with foliaged patterns
between. Others are interspersed with
mythological figures, as the Varaha
avatar. The base is very richly carved,
and is supported on carved elephants.
Mr. Fergusson sa s: “The amount of
labour which each facet of this porch
displays is such as never was bestowed
on any surface of equal exten; in any
A


354 ROUTE 27.
India
HUBLI TO HULLABID AND BANGALORE
building in the world ; and though the
design is not of the highest order of
art, it is elegant and appropriate, and
never offends against good taste. The
sculptures of the base of the vimanah
are as elaborate as those of the porch,
in some places more so ; and the mode
in which the under sides of the cor-
nices have been elaborated and adorned
is such as is only to be found in temples
of this class.”
Hullabid, from the Kanarese words,
hale, “old,” bidu, “ruins,” is a village
in the Belur Taluk, 10 m. N.E. of
Belur, with 1200 inhabitants. It marks
the site of Dorasamudra or Dvarasa-
mudra, the old capital of the Hoysala
Ballala kings. It was founded early
in the 12th century, but was rebuilt in
the middle of the 13th by Vira Somesh-
wara, and some inscriptions represent
him to be the founder, thou h it is
known that some of his re ecessors
reigned there. Attacked y leprosy,
he withdrew to the neighbouring hill
of Push )agiri (Mountain of Flowers),
where he was instructed to erect
temples to Shiva to obtain a cure. It
is probable that thus the splendid
monuments which now exist at Hulla-
bid were undertaken. The Moham-
“medan general Kafur took the city in
1310, and plundered it of immense
wealth. In 1326 another army of
Mohammedans carried off what re-
mained, and destroyed the city. The
Rajah then removed to Tondanur or
Tonnur.
There are 2 most remarkable temples
remaining. (1) The Ketaresvara, the
smaller of the two, but a miracle of art.
Unfortunately, a tree took root in the
vimanah, or tower, over the sanctuary,
and dislodged the stones. Many of the
figures, thrust out of their places in this
manner, have been removed to the
Museum at Bangalore. At p. 398,
Mr. Fergusson has given a woodcut
of this temple as it was in 1860. It
is now fast going to ruin. It is
star-shaped, with sixteen points, and
had a porch, now ruined and covered
With ve etation. It has a conical
I'Oflf, an from base to top “is covered
With sculptures of the very best
Indian art, and these so arranged as

not materially to interfere with the
outlines of the building." It was,
when intact, the finest specimen of
Indian art in existence.
(2) The Hoysaleshwara, “Lord of the
Hoysalas, " much larger than the Ketar-
esvara. (For plan see Fergusson’s Hist.
of Arch.) It stands on a terrace, 5 ft.
6 in. in height, paved with large slabs.
The tem le itself is 160 ft. from N. to S.
by 122 t. from E. to W., and beyond
its walls there is a clear margin of
platform all round of about 20 ft. The
height from the terrace to the cornice
is 25 ft. It is a double temple, one
half bein sacred to Shiva, and the
other to iis wife. Each half has a
pavilion in front containing the Baswa,
or Namii, a bull. The larger of the
two is 16 ft. long by 7 ft. broad, and
10 ft. high, the animal being repre-
sented lying down.
Some of the pillars in the inner part
of the temple are of black hornblende,
and have a dazzling polish, which, as
Buchanan tells us (vol. ii. p. 392),
“ reflects objects double, which by the
natives is looked upon as miraculous."
Alluding to the many friezes that sur-
round the temple, Mr. Fergusson says
“Some of these are carved with a.
minute elaboration of detail which can
only be reproduced by photo aphy,
an may probably be considere as one
of the most marvellous exhibitions of
human labour to be found even in the
patient East.” He adds: “Here the
artistic combination of horizontal with
vertical lines, and the lay of outline
and of light and shade, far surpass
anything in Gothic art. The effects
are just what the mediaeval architects
were often aiming at, but which they
never attained so perfectly as was done
at Hullabid." In the friezes 0f sculp-
tured animals which surround the
building, the succession is always the
same, the elephants being the lOWest,
next above them the shardalas (or con-
ventional lions), then the horses, then
the oxen, then birds. Fergusson places
Hullabid temple and the Parthenon
as the two extremes of architectural
art, and says: “It would be possible
to arrange all the buildings of the
world between these two extremes, as


ROUTE 27.
355
ARSIKERE—SHRAVANA BELAGOLA—TUMKUR
they tended toward the severe intel-
lectual puri of the one, or the playful
exuberant ancy of the other; but
perfection, if it existed, would be some-
where near the mean.”
Admiration for this vast temple
should not cause neglect of the group
of extremely beautiful Jain Bastis at
the farther end of the village.
Jamga1.—The temple here is dedi-
cated to Narsinga, and built entirely
of balapam, or pot-stone. Buchanan
says: “It is highly ornamented after
the Hindu fashion, and on the outside
every part of its walls is covered with
small images in full relievo. This
tem le is said to have been built by
Sho un Raya, and the architect that
he employed was J akanachari."]
188 m. Arsikere sta. (R.) 32 m. S.
from this place is the town of Chanroya-
patna. It was originally called Kolatur.
The name was changed in 1600 by a
local chief who erected a temple. The
fort was built subsequently, and Haidar
’Ali added the wet moat and traverse
gateways.
[At 8 m. S.E. of this place is Shra-
vana Belagola. Bhadra Bahu, the
Jain sage, died here in the 4th century
13.0., and was a Shruta kevala, or
immediate “bearer” of the six dis-
ciples of Mahavira, founder of the Jain
sect. The chief attendant of this worthy
is said to have been the famous Em-
peror Chandragupta, or Sandraeottus,
who abdicated to live the life of a recluse
with him. These events are confirmed
by inscriptions on the rock of very
great antiquity. The grandson of
Chandragupta is said to have visited
the spot with an army, and from his
camp arose the town of Shravana
Belgola or Belgola of the Shravans:
Jains. Near the town, which has
1300 inhabitants, are two rocky hills—
Imim-betm and Uhamiragiri. On
Indra-betta is a colossal statue of
Gomata Raya, of which Buchanan has
given a drawin . The same authority
makes the heig t of the statue 70 ft. 3
in. It is nude, and faces the N. The
face has the calm look usual .in Bud-
dhist statues. The hair is curled in

short spiral ringlets all over the head.
The cars are long and large, the
shoulders very broad, the arms hang-
ing straight down with the thumbs
outwards, the waist small. From the
knees downwards the legs are unnatur-
ally short; the feet rest on a lotus.
Ant-hills are represented rising on
either side, with a creeping plant spring-
ing from them which twines round
the thighs and arms, ending in a
tendril with bunches of fruit. These
are intended to symbolise the deep
abstraction of the sage, so absorbed in
meditation that the ants build and the
plants climb around him unnoticed.
Though certame 1000 years old, and
probably 2000, the stone looks as fresh
as if newly quarried. Within the
enclosure are 72 small statues, of
like appearance, in compartments.
An inscription on the front of the
colossus states that it was erected by
Chamunda Raya, who is said to have
lived 60 3.0. The place abounds with
inscriptions, the most interesting of
which are cut in the face of the rock at
Indra-betta in ancient characters 1 ft.
long. On Chandragin' there are 15
Jain temples]
248 m. Tumkur sta. (R.) chief town
and headquarters of a district of the
same name. A civil and military sta-
tion. Pop. 10,000. The Deputy Com-
missioner’s Court-house is a curious
looking circular building, three stories
high. There is at Wesleyan Mission
here, with a chapel and several schools.
Glass bangles are extensively made
here; and there are 120 forges where
arms and cutlery are produced. The
masons are specially noted for the stone
idols they carve; and musical instru-
ments made here are much prized. In
the Tumkur district there are 3763
cotton looms and 34, 801 cotton spinning-
wheels.
288 in. Bangalore junc. sta.
Rte. 29).
(see


nouns 28.
357
HONAWAR AND FALLS OF GERSOPPA
Anjidim Island, 5 m. S.E. of the
Oyster Rocks, rises steep from the sea.
It is a Portuguese settlement.
[Honawar is 50 m. S. of Karwar.
The bar at the entrance is now so
dangerous that the coasting-steamers
do not call, but they sometimes stop
outside for passengers to land. Ar-
rangement should be made beforehand
with the shipping agents (see also Ex-
cursion No. 10 from Bombay). This
is the place from which the celebrated
Falls of Gersoppa can be most conveni-
ently visited.
This ort has been a good outlet for
the pro uce of this part of N. Kanara.
The Gerspippa or Shiravati river flow-
ing towar s it, is met by an inlet of the
sea, forming a salt-water lake 7 m. in
length from S.E. to N.W., and 3 m.
in its greatest breadth. This lake con-
tains several islands, and abounds with
fish. Honawar is situated on the N.
side of it. It is the chief town of a
subdivision, and contains about 12,000
inhabitants. On account of the pepper
grown in the surrounding country, a
small factory containing eighteen per-
sons was established here by the English
at a very early period after their arrival
in India, but after a short time it came
to a melancholy end. About the year
1670 the chief procured a fine bull-do
from the captain of an English vessel
which had come there to take in cargo.
This animal, when accompanying the
factors on an excursion, seized a sacred
cow in the neighbourhood of a Hindu
temple, and killed her. Instigated by
the Brahmans, the natives were resolved
to revenge this injury to their preju-
dices, and in a fury of fanaticism mur-
dered every Englishman. Some natives,
more friendly than the rest, caused a
large grave to be dug, and in it the
eighteen victims were interred. The
chief of the factory at Karwar sent a
monumental stone, on which was en-
graved the story of their wretched fate.
n the time of Haidar there was a con-
siderable trade in pepper and sandal
wood from this place, and that prince
established at it a dock for building
ships of war. In the time of Buchanan
(1800) the wrecks of some of these

vessels remained in the lake, having
been sunk by the British troops when
they carried the Fort by assault. So
early as 1569 we hear of Honawar as a
rich and beautiful city, with a fort,
belonging to the Queen of Gersoppa;
and the Portuguese at that time
plundered and burned it, but shortly
after fortified and garrisoned it anew.
It then fell into the hands of the Rajahs
of Bednur, and next passed with their
other possessions to Haidar. In 1783
it was taken by the forces under General
Matthews, but restored next year to
Tipu by the treaty of Mangalore.
The Falls of Gersoppa.—The journey
from Honawar may be best described
by an extract from the journal of an
accomplished writer who visited the
falls in 1888. He says: “Arrangements
had been made for our passage to the
Gersoppa Falls. We went on the same
night 18 m. in boats up the moonlit
river, grounded on a sandbank, and
were pulled off only to find the rowers
had landed to drink success to our
future progress, to which this indul-
genes by no means conduced. Arrived
at Gersoppa, we slept in the D.B.,
awoke to the crowing of the jungle
cock, and went on 20 m. by road to
Kodkani. Here is another D.B.,
whence you look down into a boiling
chaos of waters. The road from Ger-
soppa to Kodkani is one lon bower of
evergreen trees, and at mi -day you
scarcel see the sun. These jungles
aboun with tigers, bears, bison, and
game of all kinds, lar e and small."
The hamlet near the "alls is called
Kodkani. There are two D.Bs., the
Kanara and the Mysore, distant from
one another 710 yds., and almost i m.
from the Falls. The Kanara bungalow
is small but comfortable, and beauti-
fully situated. From the window of
the bungalow herds of Wild bison may
sometimes be seen. After a short walk
through a beautiful wood, the sound
of rushing waters breaks u on the ear ;
and as one descends the ast slope to
the bed of the river above the Falls
fitful gleams of silvery light bursting
forth from the dark masses of rock
announce the cataracts. During the
rains it would be difficult, perhaps, to


858
I nd'ia
approach so as to gain a complete view.
But at other seasons, after crossing
some 50 ft. of the rocky bed of the
river, the traveller comes full on a
tremendous gulf. On three sides de-
scend the sheets of silvery foam with
stunning roar, and shoot like rockets
down an unbroken fall of near 1000 ft.,
where, in the gulf below, an unfathom-
able pool receives them. The river
bears several names, but here is called
the Kural. Its bed is here about 600 ft.
across, of laterite mixed with mica and
felspar, worn and riven by the violence
of the stream into innumerable fantas-
tic shapes. In one place there appears
a succession of waves of stone, and in
another rocks are piled on rocks in
perfect chaos, while some a ain are
shapen into hollow cylinders, 1n which
the stream boils and bubbles as in a
caldron.
There are in all four falls, which
have been called the Great Fall, the
Roarer, the Rocket, and the Dame
Blanche. In the first of these the
water in considerable volume leaps
sheer down a hei ht of 829 ft., measured
by line, and fafis into a pool 132 ft.
deep. The spectator may look sheer
down into this abyss. Viewed from
below and at some distance, this fall
contrasts with magical effect with the
next fall, the Bearer. Here a still
larger body of water rushes with less
abruptness, foaming down a tortuous
channel into a cavern or cup, which
turns it into the bed below. The name
given to the next fall, the Rocket, is very
appropriate. It continually shoots out
in jets of foam, which burst like fire-
rockcts into showers of glittering drops.
The Dame Blanche is exquisitely beauti-
ful, but, from above, seems quite gentle
as compared with the other three. The
guides conduct the traveller to three
points to view the falls from above,
and it is difficult to say which surpasses
the other. The descent is both steep
and circuitous. It is said that tigers
have been seen here. To make the
descent after crossing the bed of the
river, a Wood is passed, and some steps
are reached, out in the rock by a Rajah
half a century 0
The Queen of ei'soppa, called by the
‘1
acorn 28. BOMBAY TO cononno }
\

Portuguese the Reinha ola Pimmvto, or
Pepper Queen, was a great dignitary in
the 17th century. Her subjects were
chiefly Jains, by whom the nearest
village to the falls is at present almost
entirely inhabited. Among the ruins
of the city are two ordinary Jain
temples. Through the rank and luxuri-
ant vegetation you can plainly make
out the streets and even the houses.
407 m. Mangalore, the capital of
S. Kanara, in the Madras Presidency.
The anchorage is 2 m. from the shore.
Boat hire, 121'. each boat. Pop. 32,000.
Mangalore is separated from the sea by a
backwater formed by the junction of two
streams. In the rains these rivers, which
flow round two sides of a peninsula on
which the town and cantonmentof Man-
galore stand,bring down a large quantity
of water, and they are then navigable for
boats of some burthen to a consider-
able distance inland. In the dry
season there is but little current in
either, except that caused by the in-
fluence of the tide, which flows to about
9 or 10 m. from their mouth. The
banks of these rivers are high and
steep, and are, where the soil permits,
planted with cocoa-nut trees, or laid
out in gardens and rice-fields. At the
back of the present landing-place the
great bazaar commences, and stretches
N. on the edge of the backwater
about 5 m. The eneral appearance of
Mangalore from t e sea is picturesque.
The houses are detached, particularly
those towards the N., on separate
hills, whence an extensive view is to be
had, while the thick woods add much
to the beauty of the place. In ancient
times Mangalore was a place of very
great commerce. Ibn Batuta, in the
middle of the 14th century, speaks of
4000 Mohammedan merchants as re-
sident there. Forbes speaks of it, in
1772, as the principal seaport in the
dominions of Haidar ’Ali, and well
situated for commerce. Moreover,
both Haidar’s and Tipu’s ships of war
were built at Mangalore, of the fine
teak produced on the slopes of the
ghats. But in the last forty years con-
siderable changes have taken place in
the harbour, which, commercially,


ROUTE 28.
359
CANNANNORE—tTELLICHERRY
have much injured it. These changes
in the harbour appear to have origin-
ated, in the first place, from an opening
having been cut by the natives through
a narrow part of the back sand to the
N. of the present outlet, to permit the
escape of the freshes in the river, which
had caused alarm in consequence of an
unusual rise. The sea entered the cut,
and has formed an extensive and per-
manent opening. Mangalore was most
gallantly defended by Col. Campbell
of the 42d from May 6th 1782 to
January 30th 1783, with a garrison of
1850 men, of whom 412 were English
soldiers, against Tipu’s whole army
(see \Vilks, vol. ii. p. 466-86).
Mangalore may be called a miniature
Bombay, from the variety of nationali-
ties to be met—Europeans, Indo-Portu-
guese, East Indians, Parsis, Moguls,
Arabs, Sidis, Konkanis, Mapilahs,
Kanarese, and Tamulians. The ver-
nacular of the place, however, is Tuluva,
a dialect of Kanarese.
The German Mission at Mangalore is
worthy of a visit. Various industries
and trades are taught—printing, book~
binding, carpentry, tile manufacture,
etc. There are two colleges, affiliated
to the Madras University, —the Govern-
ment College and the Jesuit College. of
St. Aloysius.
A recent traveller says: “We saw
an exhibition of the products of this
district. The description of Marco Polo
will answer equally at the present day.
He says : ‘There is in this kingdom a
great quantity of epper, and ginger,
and cinnamon, an of nuts of India.
They also manufacture ver delicate
and beautiful buckrams. They also
bring hither cloths of silk and gold,
also gold and silver, cloves and spike-
nard, and other fine spices for which
there is a demand here.’ "
There is an obelisk in the Burial-
g'romui to the memory of Brigadier-
General Carnac, who died here aged
eighty-four, in 1806. He was second
in command to Clive at the battle of
Plassey.
484 m. Cannannore. Anchorage 2
m. from shore. Boat hire 14 ans. each
passenger-boat. It has 26,000 inhabit-

ants, and is a municipalit and mili-
tary station. D.B. good. he canton-
ment is on a jutting portion' of land,
which forms the N.W. side of the bay.
Near the end of this is a promontory,
on which stands the fort built by the
Portuguese. This, since its acquisition
by the English, has been improved and
strengthened. The cliffs are from 30
ft. to 50 ft. high here, with piles of
rocky boulders at their feet. The
bungalows of the officers are most of
them built on the edge of these cliffs,
and enjoy a cooling sea-breeze. Farther
inland, and in the centre of the canton-
ment, are the Church, magazine, and
English burial-ground, contiguous to
one another. The Portuguese Church,
once the Portuguese factory, is close to
the sea. The climate of Cannannore is
mild, equable, and remarkably healthy.
The town is surrounded by small hills
and narrow valleys. Clumps of cocoa-
nut trees form one of the characteristic
features of the place. The Portuguese
had a fort here as early as 1505.
They were expelled by the Dutch,
who subsequently sold the place to a
Mapilah family, in which the succes-
sion goes on in the female line. The
territory consists only of the town and
the country for about 2 in. round, for
which an annual rent of 14,000 rs.
is paid; but the sovereignty of the
Laccadive Islands also belongs to the
Rajah of Cannannore. In 1768 'Ali
Rajah, the then ruling chief, readily
submitted to Haidar ’Ali, and joined
him on his invading Malabar. In the
war with Tipu, in 1783, it was occu-
pied by the English ; but on the
conclusion of peace next year it was
restored to the Mapilah chief. It
soon, however, fell into the hands of
Tipu, from whom it was wrested by
General Abercromby.
497 m. Tellicherry. Anchorage 1}
m. from shore. Boat hire 14 ans. per
boat. D.B. good. Pop. about 26,000.
The native town lies low, yet the situa-
tion is picturesque, being backed by
wooded hills, interspersed with valleys
and watered by a fine river. It is
considered very healthy; Forbes calls
it the Montpellier of India; but deli»


360 ROUTE 28.
India
BOMBAY TO COLOMBO
cate Europeans suffer from the damp-
ness of the climate. There is a reef of
rocks which forms a natural break-
water. Within there is sufficient
depth of water for a ship of 600 tons
to ride at anchor. As the wind and
current prevail very much from the
N.W. during what is called the S.W.
monsoon, the water is not so smooth
upon the beach immediately opposite
this reef as it is a little to the S. of it.
In 1781 H.M. ship Superb of seventy-
four guns was lost here. The Fort,
which Forbes speaks of as “large and
well garrisoned," is built on a rising
ground close to the sea, and is about
40 ft. above its level. The whole of
the N. W. side of the citadel is occupied
by a lofty building, the upper part of
which is now the District Judge’s
Court and offices, while the lower part
forms the jail.
The Carolaan of Wainad, which
are mostly exported from Tellicherry,
are reckoned the best in the world.
The seed ripens in Sept. Excellent
sandal-wood is also exported. The
English factory at Tellicherry, which
was established chiefly for the pur-
chase of pepper and cardamoms, was
first opened in 1683, under orders from
the Presidenc of Surat. In 1708 the
East India om wany obtained from
the Cherikal Raja a grant of the Fort.
In 1782 Haidar ’Ali attacked the
place, but was compelled by the
vigorous sally of the garrison under
Major Abington to raise the siege.
The coasting-steamers do not touch
at Mahé (pop. 8000), as it is only five
miles from Tellicherry. Mahé, derived
from Maht, “ a fish,” a dependent terri-
tory of 2 sq. m., belongs to the French,—
their only possession on the W. coast.
Mahé is finely situated on high
ground overlooking the river, the en-
trance of which is closed by rocks.
Only small craft can pass the bar in
safety, and that only in fair weather ;
but the river is navigable for boats to
a considerable distance inland. On a
high hill some way ofl‘ is seen the Ger-
man Mission House of the Basel Mis-
sionaries at Chombala. From this hill
there ran beautiful view of the wooded
mouh‘ mm of IVainad. The French

settlement at Mahé dates from 1722,
but it was taken by the English under
Major Hector Munro in 1761. The
Peace of Paris, in 1763, gave it back to
the French, but it was retaken by the
English in 1779, and in 1793 the British
establishment at Tellicherry moved to
Mahé ; but the place being restored to
the French in 1815, the English ofiicials
returned to Tellicherry. Mahé pos-
sesses all the institutions of a republic—-
manhood suffrage, vote by ballot, muni-
cipal and local councils, representation
at the C'onseil-Géméml, which sits at
Pondicherry, and in the chambers in
France by a senator and a deputy,
who in practice, however, are always
residents in France. The Adminis-
tmtcur is a)pointed from home. He
represents t e central, and the Maire
the local Government. They do not
always agree.
536 m. Calicut sta. :0: The terminus
of the S.W. branch of the Madras
Railway. Po . 1881, 57,000; 1891,
66,000. Goo D.B., also two hotels.
Anchorage 2 m. from shore. Boats 2%
rs. each.
Buchanan (vol. ii. p. 474) says :
“The proper name of this place is
Golfeodu. When Cherurnan Perumal
had divided Malabar among his nobles,
and had no principality remaining to
bestow on the ancestor of the Tamuri,
he gave that chief his sword, with all
the territory in which a cock crowing
at a small temple here could be heard.
This formed the original dominions of
the Tamuri, and was called Colicodu,
or the cock-crowing." The native town
is but little above the level of the sea.
There is a long bazaar with numerous
small cross streets leading from it. To
the S., stretching to the right, is the
Mapilah quarter, where are many
mosques. On the N.W. is the Portu-
guese quarter, with a R. C. Church
and a large tank; also the Collector's
Cutoherry and the lines and parade-
ground of a detachment of Native
Infantry. The jail is also in the Por-
tuguese uarter. To the N. of the jail
is the ol burial-ground, which is close
to the pier. Here is interred Henry
Valentine Conolly, collector and magis-


noan 28.
caucu'r 361
trate of Malabar, who was murdered on
the 11th September 1855. There was
a dispu be among the Mapilah respecting
some land, and some of these fanatics
resolved to sacrifice the man who had
decided against them. A band of these
assassins burst in upon him and stabbed
him to death. They then went off to
Mallapuram, the headquarters of this
turbulent sect. An express was sent
off to the troops at Cannannore, and
they were in Calicut next day. They
then proceeded to Malla uram, where
the Sepoys were repuised by the
Mapilahs, and it was necessary to
bring down European soldiers. The
resistance of the rebels was then
speedily overcome. Mr. H. V. Conolly
was brother of Arthur Conolly who
perished at Bukhara. The oldest in-
scription that can now be read is to
Richard Harrison, who died on the
14th April 1717. Facing the sea are
the houses of the Euro ean gentry and
the custom house, an also the club.
There is a great appearance of neatness
and comfort in the houses even of the
very poor about this locality. The
cantonment and the collector’s resi-
dence are 2 m. N. of the town, on a
hill.
At Calicut, on the 11th of May
1498, arrived the adventurous Vasco
da Gama, ten months and two days
after his departure from Lisbon. It
then contained many noble buildings,
especially a Brahman tern le said to
have been not inferior to t e greatest
monastery in Portugal. The native
Rajah, the Tamurin, was called Zamor-
in by European writers. This prince
once ruled over an extensive territory,
but his successors are now stipendiaries
of the English Government. In 1509
the Marechal of Portugal, Don Fer-
nando Coutinho, made an attack on
Calicut with 3000 men, but was him-
self slain and his forces repulsed with
eat loss. In 1510 Albuquerque
anded, burnt the town, and )lundered
the palace, but was eventuain put to
flight, and was obliged to sail awa
with great loss. In 1513 the Raja
concluded a peace with the Portuguese,
and permitted them to build a fortified
factory. In 1616 an English factory

was established at Calicut. In 1695
Captain Kidd the pirate ravaged the
port. In 1766 Haidar ’Ali invaded
the country, and the Rajah, finding
that his offers of submission would be
in vain, barricaded himself in his
palace, and setting fire to it, perished
in the flames. Haidar was soon called
off to the war in Arcot, and the
territory of the Rajah of Calicut re-
volted, but was re-conquered in 1773
by Mysore. In 1782 the victors were
expelled by the English, and in 1789
Tipu again overran the country, and
laid it waste with fire and sword.
Many women were hanged with their
infants round their necks ; others were
trampled under the feet of elephants.
The cocoa-nut and sandal trees were
cut down, and the plantations of
pepper were torn up by the roots. The
town was almost entirely demolished,
and the materials carried to Nello're,
6 m. to the S.E., to build a fort and
town called Farrulchabad, “Fortunate
City." The next year, however, Tipu’s
general was totally defeated and taken
prisoner with 900 of his men by the
British, who captured the so-called
“Fortunate City”; and in 1792 the
whole territory was ceded to the
English Government. Since that time
the country has gradually recovered
itself. It is said that two pillars of
the old palace in which Da Gama was
received still remain, as well as'a portico
and some traces of a terrace, and
houses for Brahmans. It is said the
Portuguese leader knelt down on his
way to some Hindu idols, taking them
for distorted images of Catholic saints.
“Perhaps they may be devils,” said
one of the sailors. “ No matter,” said
another, “I kneel before them and
worship the true God.” The noble
avenue which leads to the ruins of the
old palace leads also to the new, which
is a low tasteless building. The French
have still a. lodge at Calicut, in which
is one solitar watchman. Cotton
cloth, original y imported from this
town, derives from it its name of calico.
Beypur, near the mouth of the Bey-
ur river, 6 m. S. of Calicut, was
ormerly the terminus of the Madras
Railway on the west coast, and 1M-


362 ROUTE 28.
India
BOMBAY TO COLOMBO
sengers had to cross a wide estuary by
boat and then travel by road to Cali-
cut ; but in 1890 the line was diverted
some miles N. of Beypur, and extended
to Calicut, and Beypur abandoned as a
railway station. The Portuguese estab-
lished a factory (Kal an) here, but it
failed. Tipu selecte it as the site of
the capital of Malabar, but hardly a
vestige of its short-lived importance
has survived. In 1797 sawmills, in
1805 a canvas factory, in 1848 iron-
works, and still later, ship-building
works were started at Beypur, but all
from one cause or another have failed.
Iron ore and a sort of lignite both
exist in the immediate vicinity. The
teak 'own on the ghats to the E. is
fioate down to Beypur for exportation.
A few miles from the town lies the site
of Ferokh (“Tipu‘s City”), and 5 m. E.
is Ohatapammba (“Field of Death”),
remarkable for its ancient stone circles
and monuments (see Trans. I/in. Soc.
Bombay, vol. iii. p. 324), resembling
the cromlechs of Salem and Coimbatore,
and called by the natives kudci-kullu,
or “ umbrella stones. ”
627 in. Narakal. Anchorage 3 m.
from the shore. Boat hire 1:} r. each
boat. The handbook of the British
India Steam Navigation Company says i
“This port, which is 6 m. N. of Cochin,
is not affected by the S.W. monsoon,
and is therefore a regular port of call
during that season, when passengers
who land there can proceed by back-
water to stations on the Madras Rail-
way." The place owes its advantages
to a bank which stretches about 2% in.
seaward, and is 4 m. long. Within
this vessels can run in the worst of the
S.W. monsoon when all other ports on
the coast are closed.
637 m. Cochin (Kuchibamlar). * D.B.
fair. Anchorage 1% in. from the shore.
Boat hire 1!; r. per boat two persons.
Pop. 16,000. \Vcckly steamer to
Colombo. It belongs to the English,
though it gives name to a small native
principality extending over the adjacent
territory,_ and was formerly the capital
of theRajah. The Resident of Travan-
core is also Resident of Cochin, and

vthere is an Anglican bishop of both
places.
The town is situate at the N. extrem-
ity of a spit of land about 12 m. long,
and 1 m. to 11 m. wide. It is almost
insulated by inlets of sea and estuaries
of streams flowing from the W. ghats.
Indeed, the backwater is of such extent
as to be of paramount importance to
the place, and to supply in a great
degree the place of a harbour. This
backwater extends S. nearly to Kayan
Kulam, and N. about 40 m. to Chaitwa.
E. it has several branches, and W. it
communicates with the sea by three
estuaries, at Chaitwa, Cranganore, and
Cochin. It is very shallow in many
places, more particularly in the N. part
of the Chaitwa branch, but between
the inlets at Cranganore and Cochin,
and Cochin and Alapalli, it is at all times
navigable, both for passage and cargo-
boats. It shoals, however, from Alapalli
to the bar of Ivika near Kayan Kulam.
During the rains every part is navig-
able, flat-bottomed boats or canoes bein
employed. The backwater is affected
by the tides, which rise about 2 ft. , and
flow at the rate of 24,; m. an hour.
Cochin is the only port S. of Bombay
in which large ships can be built. In
1820-21 three frigates were built here
for the Royal Navy. Smaller vessels
for the Indian Navy have likewise been
built, and some merchant ships.
In 1500 the Portuguese adventurer
Cabral, after having cannonaded Cali-
eut, landed at Cochin and met with a
friendly reception from the Rajah, a
reluctant vassal of the Zamorin.
Cabral returned to Portugal with a
cargo of pepper, and was followed by
Inan da Nova Castehlo. In 1502
Vasco da Gama on his second voyage
came to Cochin, and established a
factory. In 1503 Albuquerque, the
Portuguese admiral, arrived just in
time to succour the Cochin Rajah, who
was besieged by the Zamorin in the
island of Vypin. He built the Cochin
fort, called “Manuel Kolati,” the first
European fort in India, just five years
after Da Gama had arrived on the
Malabar coast. Albuquerque returned
to Portugal, leavin Cochin guarded by
only a few hundre men un er Duarte


ROUTE 28.
cocnm 363
Pacheco, when the Zamorin with a large
host invaded the country b land and
sea. Pacheco with his brave band of 400
men firmly resisted all the attacks of
the Zamorin, and at last forced him to
retreat to Calicut. In 1505 Francisco
Almeyda, the first Portuguese viceroy of
India, came to Cochin with a large
fleet, and was in 1510 succeeded by
Albuquerque. On Christmas Day 1524
Da Gama died here, and was buried,
according to Correa, whose narrative is
the most trustworthy, in the principal
chapel of the Franciscan monastery,
now used as the English church. His
body was afterwards (1538) removed to
Portugal. In 1530 St. Francis Xavier,
the apostle of the Indies, preached in
these parts and made many converts.
In 1557 the church of Santa Cruz was
consecrated as the cathedral of a bishop.
In 1577 the Society of Jesus published
at Cochin the first book printed in
India. In 1585 Cochin appears to
have been visited by the English
traveller Ralph Fitch, with his band
of adventurers. In 1616 the English,
under Keeling, engaged to assist the
Zamorin in attacking Cochin, on an
understanding that an English factory
was to be established there. These
relations were, however, broken off, and
the factory was built some years later
with the consent of the Portuguese.
In 1663 the town and fort were cap-
tured from the Portuguese by the
Dutch, and the English retired to
Ponani. The Dutch eatly improved
the place and its tra e, building sub-
stantial houses after the European
fashion, and erecting quays, etc. In
1776 the State of Cochin was subiu ated
by Haidar. In 1792 Tipu ceded the
sovereignty to the British. In 1796
it was taken by the British from the
Dutch, and in 1806, or, according to
another account, in 1814, the fortifica-
tions were, by command of Government,
blown up with gunpowder. The explo-
sion threw down or shattered all the
best houses, and most of the Dutch
families who could afford it left.
Cochin is remarkable as the resi-
dence of the black and the white Jews,
who inhabit the suburbs of Kalvati
and Mottancheri, which extend about i

m. along the backwater to the SE.
of the town. In Mottancheri there is
a large but not very handsome K ota'ram,
or palace, of the Rajah, and close to it is
the synagogue of the white Jews, or
Jews of Jerusalem, who are said to
have arrived in India at a much more
recent date than the black Jews, whose
residence dates from time immemorial.
The white Jews inhabit the upper part
of Jews’ Town, the black Jews the lower
part. There are also a great number
of black Jews in the interior, their
principal towns being Iritur, Parur,
Chenotta, and Maleb. There is every
reason for believing that the black Jews
were established at Cranganore in the
3d or 4th century A.D. They possess
a copper grant from the Brahman
Prince of Malabar, conferring the said
place upon them, and dated 388 A.D.,
or, according to Hamilton, 490. People
here are subject to cutaneous diseases,
and especially elephantiasis, which is
sometimes called the Cochin leg.
There is an interesting sect of Chris-
tians at Cochin—the Nasaranis. The
are often termed Nestorians, thong
they themselves do not accept the name.
They ascribe their conversion to the
preaching of St. Thomas, and until the
arrival of the Portuguese they were a
united church, holding a simple faith.
About 350 they were joined by a
colony of Syrian Christians, who are
said to have landed at Malabar ; and in
the 9th and 10th centuries more came
from Bagdad, Nineveh, and Jerusalem.
As early as the 9th century they were
high in favour with the Rajah of Travan-
core. Eventually they became inde-
pendent and elected a sovereign of
their own; and though subsequently
the had to acknowledge the supremacy
of the Cochin Rajah, they still preserved
many of their privileges.
The Portuguese, under Vasco da
Gama, tried to bring them into the
fold of Rome, and to extirpate the
Nestorian heresy, which naturally took
firm root in a community recruited
from the neighbourhood of Persia and
Turkish Arabia. The Dutch put an
end to this rsecution, and supported
the Syrian hristians, who in 1653 sent
to Antioch for a bishop. H9, 011 1118


364 ROUTE 29.
India.
MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND MYSORE
arrival, was put to death by the Portu-
guese. When the rule of the Portuguese
ceased they were left with a divided
Church. From that date to the be-
ginning of the present century the
Church, by “schisms rent asunder,”
was administered partly by native
bishops and partly by bishops from
Syria; and to this day there are two
bishops amongst them, one, Mar Diony-
sius, who heads the non-reformers,
and another, Mar Athanasius, of the
party of reform. They number some
300,000 in all, and hold most tena-
ciously to differences of doctrine, such
as divided the earl Christian Church,
and such as nowa ays excite a merely
academical interest. At present the
Syrian and Roman Catholic services
are performed at times in the same
church. They are a peaceful and well-
ordered people, on good terms with the
Government, be it British or native, on
the coast, and they retain, in their
internal economy, many interesting
forms and ceremonies relating to the
time when they were governed by a
king, who was recognised as such by
the native kings of the coast.
769 m. Kolachel (Oolachel),* D.B.
A very ancient port, again rising into
some importance, in the Travancore
state in the extreme south of India.
It is probably the Knlz'as of Strabo.
Some centuries ago it was occupied by
the Danes.
875 m. Tuticorin sta.,* D.B., ter-
minus of S. Indian Rly., 443 m. from
Madras by rail. A municipal and com-
mercial town, exporting large quantities
of cotton, coffee, corn, cattle, etc.;
pop. 27,000. The anchorage is 5 m.
from the shore. Passengers are con-
veyed to and from the steamers of the
Brit. Ind. S. N. Co. in their steam-
launch. Fare 2 rs. each. There is
a weekly steamer hence to Colombo
(Rte. 33).
The place was famous for its pearl-
fishery, which extended from Cape
Comorin to the Pamban Channel.
Caesar Frederick, who visited India
156_3-81_, tells us that the fishing
11921118 In March or April, and lasts

fifty days. It is never in the same
spot during two consecutive years ; but
when the season approaches, good divers
are sent to examine where the greatest
number of oysters are to be found, and
when they have settled that point, a
village is built of stone opposite to it,
should there have been no village there
previously, and an influx of people and
of the necessaries of life follows. The
fishers and divers are mostly native
Christians. Owing to the deepening of
the Pamban Channel, these banks no
longer produce the pearl-oysters in
remunerative quantities, but chank
shells are still found and exported to
Bengal.
The S.P.G. have a Mission-house
here, and have also charge of Caldwell
College and a Training School.
Small schooners sail twice or thrice
a week from Tuticorin to Ceylon,
whence a passage may be had in a small
steamer to the coast opposite Rames-
waram; and the temple at the latter
place may thence be visited in a boat,
or a boat may be hired at Tuticorin
to go to Rameswaram direct. It is,
however, often impossible to land at
Rameswaram on account of the surf.
The temples there are, however, well
worth seeing.
ROUTE 29
MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND stonn
Madras to, 42 m., Arkonam junc. sta.
(see Rte. 22).
65 m. Arcot sta. (A'I'a-kadu, “six
forests ") mentioned by Ptolemy. The
town is 5 m. S. of the railway station
and across the Palar river. Ram'pet,
the civil station and residence of the
Europeans, is 3 m. from the railway


ROUTE 29.
aaco'r 365
before the river is crossed. The place
has ceased to be a military station.
On approaching the town a small
pagoda is reached and portions of the
town-wall, which was a massive struc-
ture of red brick. It was blown up
with gunpowder, but the foundations
remain, and huge fragments are seen
solid as rocks. Continuing the same
course along the bank of the Palar,
after i m. the Delhi Gate is reached,
which is the only one that remains
so far uninjured that it is possible
to form an idea of what the fortifica~
tion was. Above the gate is Clive’s
room. Much of the moat is now used
for growing rice. Returning to the
Delhi Gate, take a road which leads
S. from it into the heart of the old
town. After i m. the Taluk Oulcherry
is reached, a pretty building erected in
1874. After assing this building, turn
to the E. and cross a very broad moat,
which surrolmded the citadel, and is now
dry, with trees growing in it. Here are
two small tanks, which once had foun-
tains in the centre. Thewater was raised
into them by wheels turned by ele-
phants. The water for the tanks was
brought from a large reservoir near the
Nawab’s palace. Near this is the Mak-
bm-ah, or Tomb of Sa'adatu'llah Khan.
In the same enclosure is the Jumma
The tomb has a stone inserted
over the door with an inscription, which
says that the Nawab died 1733 A.D.
W. of the J umma Musjid is the ruined
Palace of the Nawabs of the Carnatic,
on a mount overlooking the large lake
called the Nawab’s Tank. The walls
of the durbar-room are still standing.
Opposite is the Kali Musjid, or Black
Mosque, and near the palace is the tomb
of a Mohammedan ascetic, Shah Khizr
Langotbund, with a rather handsome
dome. To the W. is the mosque of
Fakir Muhammad. Near it is a tomb,
apparently unfinished, in which was
laid the body of the Nizam Nasir J ang,
murdered b the Nawab of Kadapa on
5th Decem er 1750. It was shortliy
' afterwards removed to Haidaraba .
Just across the road is the tomb of
Tipu Auliya, or Saint Tipu, of brick,
whitewashed. In the W. wall is a
stone with an inscription, which says

that Sa’adatu’llah Khan erected this
tomb for Tipu, who was a man of God.
Whether Tipu Sultan got his name
from this saint, or, as \Vilks says, from
a word signifying “ tiger,” is doubtful.
History.
Arcot derives its name from Ara-
kadu, “six forests,” where six Rishis,
or holy men, dwelt. Adondai, who
conquered Tondamandalam in 1100
A.D., drove out the aborigines from
these forests, and built various temples
there. These went to ruin, and the
place again became desolate, till Hindus
came from Penukonda and built a fort
there. Zu'lfakar Khan, Aurangzib’s
general, took Gingi in 1698 A.D., and
made Daud Khan Governor of Arcot,
under which district Gingi' was included.
This officer colonised the country with
Mohammedans. Until 1712the Moham-
medan governors resided at Gingi, when
Sa’adatu’llah Khan, who first took the
title of Nawab of the Carnatic, made
Arcot his capital. Arcot, however, is
chiefly known to us for the glorious
capture and defence of it b Capt. Clive,
who here laid the foun ation of his
great celebrity. When the French and
Chanda Sahib besieged Trichinopoly
in 1751, Olive led an expedition against
Arcot in order to divert a part of the
enemy from the siege. Clive had with
him only 200 English, with 8 officers,
6 of whom had never before been in
action ; he had also 300 Sepoys and 3
field-pieces. With this small force he
left Madras on the 26th of August, and
arrived at Conjeveram on the 29th.
Here he learned that the garrison of
Arcot amounted to 1100 men. On the
31st he arrived within 10 m. of Arcot,
and marched on through a tremendous
storm of thunder, lightning, and rain.
The enemies' spies reported the sang
fluid with which the English advanced
under such circumstances, and this
made such an impression on the garri-
son that they abandoned the fort. On
the 4th of September Clive marched
out against the garrison, who had taken
up a position at Timeri, a'fort 6 m. S.
of Arcot. The enem retreated to the
hills, and the Englis returned to the
fort, but marched out again a secornl


366 ROUTE 29.
I nd'ia
MADRAS TQ BANGALORE AND MYSORE
time on the 6th, and drove the enemy
from a tank near Timeri, where they
had ensconced themselves. After ten
days the enemy, who by reinforcements
had grown to 3000 men, encamped
within 3 m. of Arcot, where they were
attacked at 2 A.M. on the 14th of Sep-
tember by Clive, and utterly routed.
Two 18-pounders despatched from
Madras had now nearly reached Clive,
who sent out all the men he had, ex-
cept 30 Europeans and 50 Sepoys, to
bring them in. During this emergency
the enemy attacked Arcot, but were
signally repulsed. Chanda Sahib now
sent 4000 men from Trichinopoly
under his son Rajah Sahib, who entered
the town of Arcot on the 23d of Sep-
tember. On the 24th Clive sallied from
the citadel, and fought a desperate
battle with Rajah Sahib’s force. On the
25th Murtaza ’Ali brought 2000 men
from Vellore to join Rajah Sahib. Clive’s
situation now appeared desperate :
“The fort was more than 1 m. in cir-
cumference" (Orme, book iii. p. 198) ;
“the walls were in many places ruin-
ous ; the rampart too narrow to admit
the firing of artillery ; the parapet low
and slightly built ; several of the towers
were decayed, and none of them capable
of receiving more than one piece of
cannon; the ditch was in most places
fordable, in others dry, and in some
choked up ; there was between the foot
of the walls and the ditch a space about
10 ft. broad, intended for a fausse-braye,
but this had no parapet at the scalp of
the ditch. The fort had two gates,
one to the N. W., the other to the E.,
both of which were large piles of
masonry rojecting 40 ft. beyond the
walls, an the passage from these gates
was, instead of a drawbridge, a large
causeway crossing the ditch. The gar-
rison had from their arrival employed
themselves indefati ably to remove and
repair as many of t ese inconveniences
and defects as the smallness of their
numbers could attend to. They had
endeavoured to burn down several of
the nearest houses, but without success ;
for these having no woodwork in their
construction, excepting the beams
which supported the ceilin , resisted
the blaze. Of these housest eenemy's

infantry took possession, and began to
fire upon the ramparts, and wounded
several of the garrison before night,
when they retired. At midnight En-
sign Glass was sent with 10 men and
some barrels of gunpowder to blow 11
two of the houses which most annoye
the fort. This party were let down
by ropes over the walls, and entering
the houses without being discovered,
made the explosion, but with so little
skill that it did not produce the in-
tended effect ; at their return the rope
by which Ensign Glass was getting into
the fort broke, and he was by the fall
rendered incapable of further duty ; so
that, at the beginning of the siege, the
garrison was deprived of the services
of 4 of the 8 officers who set out on the
expedition, and the troops fit for duty
were diminished to 120 Europeans and
200 Sepoys; these were besieged by
150 Europeans, 2000 Sepoys, 3000
cavalry, and 500 peons.”
Macaulay says: “During fifty days
the siege went on. During fifty da s
the young captain maintained the
defence with a firmness, vi 'lance, and
ability which would have one honour
to the oldest marshal in Europe. The
breach, however, increased day by day.
The garrison began to feel the pressure
of hunger. Under such circumstances
any troops, so scantily provided with
officers, might have been expected to
show signs of insubordination; and
the danger was peculiarly great in a
force composed of men differing widely
from each other in extraction, colour,
language, manners, and religion. But
the devotion of the little band to its
chief surpassed anything that is related
of the Tenth Legion of Caesar, or the
Old Guard of Napoleon. The Sepoys
came to Clive, not to complain of their
scanty fare, but to propose that all the
grain should be given to the Europeans,
who required more nourishment than
the natives of Asia. The thin gruel,
they said, which was strained away
from the rice, would suffice for them-
selves. History contains no more
touching instance of military fidelity,
or of the influence of a. commanding
mind.”
It was now that the gallantry of


368 ROUTE 29.
I ndiu
MADRAB TO BANGALORE AND MYSORE
is a mandapam at each corner of the
enclosure, but that above described is
by far the most ornamental. In the
gopura itself is a slab with seventeen
lilies in the old Granthi Tamil, which
has not yet been decipher-ed. O posite
the gopura is a long low buil ing of
granite, the blocks being adjusted with
the greatest care. In this, no doubt,
formerly was the adytum, but it is now
so dark that nothing can be seen with-
out torches. Mr. Fergusson (Hist. of
Arch. p. 370) says “the great cornice
here with its double flexures and its
little trellis-work of supports is not
only very elegant in form, but one of
those marvels of patient industry such
as are to be found hardly anywhere
else. . . . The traditions of the place
assign the erection of the Vellore orch
to the year 1350, and though t is is
perhaps being too precise, it is not far
from the truth."
Around St. John’s Church are the
mahals which have been the residence
of the family and descendants of Tipu
since 1802. There is a fine tank, in
deepening which the relief funds in the
famine of 1877 were expended to the ex-
tent of 60,000 rs. The Old Cemtery is a
little to the S.E. of the Fort. In the
centre of the enclosure is a magnificent
pipul tree, and in the right-hand corner
of the cemetery is a wal ed-in enclosure
with a low sarcophagus inscribed to
the memory of Lieuts. Popham and
Eley and 80 soldiers of the 69th Regt.,
who fell during the mutiny of 1806.
At the time of the mutiny, besides
the 69th Regt., there were 6 companies
of the 1st battalion of the 1st Regt.
N.I., and the 2d battalion of the 23d
N.I. in the Fort, and the Sc oys mus-
tered 1500 to the 370 Euglisr soldiers.
The native oflicers led the Sepoys to the
attack, and maintained a murderous
discharge of muskctry on the European
barracks. Detachments were also told
off to shoot the officers as the came
out of their houses. Thus Co . Fan-
court of the 69th who commanded the
whole garrison, was killed, as was
Lieut.-Col. M‘Keera, commanding the
28d N.I. 13 oflicers were killed, and
several English conductors of ordnance
at their houses. In the barracks

82 privates were killed, and 91 wounded.
A'few officers, who had successfully
defended themselves in a house, forced
their way to the barracks, and put
themselves at the head of the surviving
soldiers. The followers of the state
prisoners hoisted Tipu’s flag. The
men of the 69th, however, fought their
way to the flag-staff and pulled it down ;
they then made their way to the third
gateway, which they opened to Col.
Gillespie, when he came up from Arcot
with a squadron of the 19th Dragoons
and a troop of the 7th Native Cavalry.
300 to 400 of the mutineers were killed
and many taken prisoners, and the
numbers of the regiments were erased
from the Army Lists (see Mill, vol. vii.
pp. 121, 122).
Ham-at Makam, the tomb of a
Mohammedan saint, is in a street of
the same name about 250 yds. “I. of
the Fort. They expect you to take off
your shoes if you enter the verandah
of the makbarah, or tomb.
The tombs of Tipu’s family are 2 m.
to the W. of the Fort in a well-kept
enclosure. Rt. of the entrance is the
tomb of Padshah Begam, wife of Tipu,
1834 A.D. The second tomb on the
right is that of Aftab Khan, who was
second instructor to the ladies. Next
comes a handsome tank, with stone
embankment and steps. Next are two
plain tombs of female attendants, and
then a handsome granite pavilion with a
massive roof supported by four pillars ;
inside is a black marble tomb to Mirza
Riza, who married one of Tipu’s
daughters. At the end of these is the
largest building of all, a domed mauso-
leum 20 ft. sq. to the memory of
Bakhshi Begam, the widow of Haidar
'Ali, 1806 A.D. Left of this is a mosque
without any inscription, and be end it
scores of plain gravestones an other
tombs of members of Tipu's family and
retinue.
In the third volume of Onne, at
p. 603, will be found a picture of three
hill-forts near Vellore, and called by
him Sazarow, Guzaro'w, and Mu'rtaz
Agur. The one nearest to the place,
in fact overlooking it, is what is called
Sayers’ Hill, but which the Hindus
call Singal Drug; it is 900 ft. above


ROUTE 29.
BANGALORE 3 69
‘7‘““~e-»
the level of Vellore. The sides are
covered with boulders and loose stones,
and the ascent is very fatiguing, but
may be accomplished in forty-five
minutes. From the bastion there is a
good view over the neighbouring hill,
which also has been fortified. Just
below the hill is the Fort, and two
fine tanks, while 21} m. ofi‘ are the
police lines and the Central Jail, which
216 in. Bangalore Canton. sta.:k (R.)
219 In. BANGALORE City junc. sta. 1%
Hence the rly. to Mysore is continued
S.W., whilst the line through Hubli
to Poona. runs N.W. The name is
literally, “the town of bengalu," a
kind of been (pop. 180,000). The area
assigned to Government when the state
of Mysore was restored to the native








BANGALORE.
1. Roman Catholic Church.
2. St. J ohn's Church.
3. Native Infantry Lines.
4. St. Andrew‘s Church.
is noted for its beautiful carpet and
cloth manufactures]
132 m. Jalarpet junc. sta. (R.) Here
the rly. to Ban alore leaves the main
S. W. branch an commences the ascent
to the plateau of Mysore.
176 m. Kolar Road sta., whence a
good road leads to the district that
contains most of the gold mines of this
part of India. The goldfield proper
is 7 m. distant, and well worth a visit.
[India]

5. Cleveland Town.
6. Maharajah's Palace.
7. Mysore Gate.
8. Museum.
prince is 13'} sq. m. The state was
taken under British administration in
1831, and was restored to native rule in
1881. In the interval of half a century
it has grown to its present importance.
The Cantonment (the largest in the
S. of India) and City of Bangalore
stretch from the Maharajah’s palace on
the N., 6500 yds., to the S. extremity
of the Koramangala Tank on the S.,
and an equal distance from the W. and
of the Petta on the W., to thezsappers
B


370 Room 29.
India
MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND MYSORE
Practice-ground on the E. Bangalore
pro r lies S. of the Dharmambudhi
an Sampangi Tanks, which lie in the
N .W. and E. corners of the Petta or
town. Beginning with the canton-
ment, and takin the noticeable things
in order from .W. to S.E., the first
building is the Maharajah's Palace,
which is handsome, but only open to the
public by special permission when the
Maharajah is absent. S. E. of this 850
yds. is the Railway Station, and 300
yds. S. of that again is Miller’s Tank,
which communicates by a small stream
with the much larger Halsur Tank,
1800 yds. to the E. Between these two
tanks is the Cantonment Bazaar, and
N. of it the pleasant suburb of Cleveland
Town, in which are some neat residences
and Roman Catholic and Protestant
Churches. The Sappers’ quarters are
at the E. corner of the Bazaar, and the
Sepoys’ Lines at the S.W., and a little
to the E. of the latter the Bowring
Civil Hospital, the London Mission
Chapel, and St. Andrew‘s Kirk, built
in 1864. The Main Guard adjoins
this church on the E. ; and a few yds.
farther to the E. are the Infantry Bar-
racks, and still farther to the E. the
village of Halsur, and a pleasant drive
round the large tank of the same name,
with the Sappers’ Parade-ground to
the E. Directly S. of Halsur are the
Artillery Barracks, and S. again of them
the Cavalry Barracks, the old Ceme-
tery, the Mounted Parade, and the
Artillery Practice-ground.
N.W. of the Artillery Barracks is
Trinity Church, which contains a half-
length statue in white marble, by Mac-
Dowell, RA., to General Clement Hill,
who served through the Peninsular cam-
paigns under his brother Lord Hill, and
when commanding the Mysore Division
died on the 20th of January 1845, while
on a pleasure tri to the Falls of Gersop-
a. A few hun red yards W. of Trinity
hurch are the Wesleyan Chapel, the
Public Rooms, and the Gymnasium,
standing in the General Parade-
ground, which is more than 1 m. long
from E. to W. A little S. of its centre
15 the Telegraph Office, and S. E. of
that again t e Roman Catholic Cathe-
dral, 100 yds. S. of which is the

Museum. Close to the S. of these are
the D. B. and All Sainls’ Church.
Near the W. end of the Grand Parade-
ground, and adjoining it on the S., are
the General’s House, the Bandstand,
and St. Mark's Church, in which is a
tablet to Lieut.-Col. Sir Walter Scott,
of Abbotsford, and of the 15th King's
Hussars, who died at sea in 1847, aged
46. W. of the Genera-1’s House, and
close to it, is the Cubbon Park, the
fashionable afternoon resort. In this
is the Museum. In the vestibule
remark a slab with twelve Persian dis-
tiohes, brought from Tipu’s Palace in
the Fort ; a figure of a Jain deity with
very superb carving round it, brought
from a temple; also some wonderful
carvings from Hullabid. In the large
room adjoinin there is a valuable col-
lection of geo o 'cal specimens. Up-
stairs are stuffe animals, butterflies,
and native ornaments and dresses, and
a most remarkable collection of fishes.
W. of the Museum 450 yds. is a fine
building 525 ft. long from N.E. to
S.W., which contains the Public Ofices.
The Commissioner’s House, or Govern-
ment House as it is called, is about }
m. N. of the Public Offices, and in
front of it is a good statue of General
Mark Cubbon, the first Commissioner.
We now come to Bangalore proper,
which has an area of only 2i; sq. in.
out of the 13. The Fella was until
recent times surrounded by a deep
ditch and thorn hedge. There is an
excellent market between the Fort and
Mysore Gates. The Brahman quarter
is called Siddi Katte. The streets are
somewhat narrow and irregular, but
scattered about there are well-built
and imposin mansions belonging to
wealthy inha itants. The grain-market,
Taragu-petta, and cotton market, Arale-
pella, afford busy scenes of traffic.
The Fort is due S. of the Petta. It
is 2400 ft. from N. to S. and 1800 ft.
from E. to W. It could never have
been a strong place against European
troops. It is of an oval shape, with
two ateways, one the Delhi Gate on
the face opposite the Petta, the
other the Mysore on the S. face. The
Delhi Gate is handsomely built of out
granite, and when Lord Cornwallis on
T


ROUTE 29.
371
EXPEDITION TO THE FALLS OF THE CAUVERY
the 21st of March 1791 determined
to storm the place, there were five
powerful cavaliers (Wilks, Hist. Sketches
of the S. of India, vol. iii. p. 123),
a. fausse-braye, ditch, and covered way,
but in no part was there a perfect
flanking defence. The garrison, how-
ever, consisted of 8000 men under
Bahadur Khan, and there were besides
2000 regular infantry in the Petta, and
5000 irregular. In addition to all,
Tipu himself, with an army very far
superior in numbers to that of Com-
wallis, was prepared to take advantage
of any error on the part of the besiegers.
The Petta had been previously taken by
the English on the 7th of March, with
a loss on their part of 131 killed and
wounded. The Mysore garrison lost
upwards of 2000 men. The assault
took place at eleven at night, and
until the Kiladar fell a determined
resistance was made. Tipu’s camp
that night was at Ji i, 6 m. to the
S.\V., and at nightfa he moved up
within 11} m. of the Fort, but the
spirit of the assailants overcame all
ifficulties, and the Fort was captured,
after a severe struggle, that same
night.
In the centre of the Fort is the
arsenal, and there are some remains of
T'ipa’s Palace. Some restoration has
been done to the to story. There is
a small temple near t e Mysore Gate.
The Lal Bagh, a most beautiful
garden, is said to have been laid out in
the time of Haidar ’Ali. There is a
fine collection of tropical and sub-
tropical plants. A military band plays
here at stated times, and there are
some wild beasts in cages.
[N andidrug, a strong hill-fort 4856 ft.
above sea-level, is 36 m. N of Bangalore.
It was thought impregnable by Tipu,
being inaccessible except from the W.,
and there stron ly fortified. It was
taken, however, y General Meadows
on the 19th October 1791, with the
loss of only thirty killed and wounded,
chiefly by the tremendous masses of
granite rolled down the rock on the
heads of the assailants. It was as the
storming-party formed that Meadows
overheard a soldier whisper that there

was a mine. “To be sure!" said the
General, “there is a mine, a mine of
gold ! " The large house on the summit
was a favourite retreat of Sir Mark
Cubbon in the hot weather. There
are many objects of historical interest
to be seen: one being Tipa’s Drop, a
rock projecting from the fortifications
and overhanging a precipice of 1000 ft.]
46 m. from Bangalore, Maddur sta.
(R.) was formerly an important place, but
suffered heavily during the wars with
Tipu. There are two large Vishna-
vite temples here, sacred to Narasim
Swami, and Varada Rajah, “the Man-
Lion,” and “the boon-giving King."
A fine brick bridge with seven arches,
built in 1850, spans the Shimsha, on
the right bank of which the town is
built. The fort was taken by the
Mysore general in 1617, and Haidar
rebuilt it, and it was dismantled by
Lord Cornwallis in 1791.
[Expedition to the Falls of the
Cauvery.
B road 15 m. S. is Malvalli,* D.B.,
hea quarters of the Taluk of the same
name, and a municipal town. The
Mysore-Bangalore and Maddur-Sivasa-
mudram roads intersect here. Haidar
gave this town to his son Tipu, and
the rice-fields near the tank are the
site of a garden which Tipu formed.
On the 27th of March 1799 Tipu
drew up his army 2 m. to the W. of
the fort and village of Malvalli.
General Harris advanced with the right
or principal division of his army under
his immediate command, and the left
column under General Wellesley. The
unevenness of the ound causing an
interval between t e brigades, Tipu
directed a charge of cavalry against
them, “which was prepared with de-
liberate coolness, and executed with
great spirit.” Many horsemen fell on
the bayonets of the Europeans, but no
disorder was caused in their ranks.
Col. Wellesley then moved to turn the
enemy’s right, when Tipu’s infantry
advanced in front of their guns, and
received the fire of the 33d regiment
and the English artillery, until at 60
yds. from the Europeans they gave way,


372 ROUTE 29. MADRAS r1‘0
BANGALORE AND MYSORE
India
and were immediately charged by Col.
Floyd with the brigade of cavalry,
which drove them off the field with
the loss of more than 1000 men, while
the English lost but 69. After the
action Tipu destroyed Malvalli, to
prevent its givingshelter to the English.
12 m. S. W. o Malvalli is the village
of Somnathpur, famous for the temple
of Prasanna Channa Kesava. This is
an elaborately carved building attri-
buted to Jakanachari, the famous
sculptor and architect of the Ballala
kings. Smaller than the temple at
Hullabid, this temple is more pleasing,
as the three pyramidal towers or vim-
anahs over the triple shrine are com-
pletely finished. The central shrine is
that of Prasanna Channa Kesava, that
on the S. is sacred to Gopala, and that
on the N. to Janardhana. Round the
outer base are carved with much spirit
the principal incidents in the Rama—
yana, the Maha Bharata, and the
Bhagavad Gita. The end of each
chapter is indicated by a closed door,
of each section by a half closed door.
Around lie 74 mutilated statues, which
once stood on the basement. There is
a fine inscription at the entrance, which
declares thatthe buildingwas completed
in 1270 by Soma, a high ofiicer of
the Ballala State, and a member of
the royal family. The vestibule is in
ruins, and the images are more or less
damaged. There are also the ruins of
a large Shivite temple with inscriptions.
From Malvalli by road 14§ m. to
The Falls of the Cauvery at Sivasa-
mudram. The river has in Mysore an
average breadth of from 300 to 400 yds. ,
but from its confluence with the Kabbani
to Sivasamudram it swells into a
much broader stream. The maximum
flood discharge, roughly gauged at
Bannur, is 239,000 cubic ft. per second.
The bottom of the channel is mostly
composed of rocks, which increase the
eddies and foaming of the waters. A
few miles after the stream has passed
the half-buried city of Talkad, it turns
northward and forms an island 3 m.
long, and about 2 m. broad, round
which it sweeps in two broad streams,
thef- on the right or E. passing within

the frontier of the British district of
Coimbatore, while that on the left or
W. separates the territory of Mysore
from Coimbatore. The island is called
in Kanarese, Heggura, but is more
generally known by its Sanscrit name
Shivasamudram, “the sea of Shiva.”
The total descent of the river from
its point of separation at the S. point
of the island to its reunion at the N.
point is nearly 300 ft. The N., or
more properly speaking the W. branch
of the river is the more considerable of
the two, and forms a smaller island
called Ettikur, on either side of which
a vast stream thunders down. Buchanan
tells us that this island is believed to
be inhabited by a devil, and adds, “ the
only persons who defy this devil, and
the tigers, who are said to be verynumer-
ous, are two Mohammedan hermits who
dwell at Gagana Chukki. The Hermit-
age is a but open all round, laced
opposite to the tomb of Pir ali."
The main island of Shivasamudram is
the site of a city which was built in
the beginning of the 16th century
by Ganga Rajah, a kinsman of the
Rajah of Vijayanagar. He is said to
have begun building before the pre-
scribed auspicious moment, and conse-
quently his city was doomed to last for
only three generations. His son and
successor Nandi Rajah committed some
breach of ceremonial, which he expiated
by leaping into the cataract at Gagana
Chukki on horseback, with his wife
seated behind him. The ruin foretold
fell on his son Ganga Ra'ah IL, one of
whose daughters marrie the Rajah of
Kilimale, a place 12 In. from Satyagala,
and the other the Rajah of Nagarakere,
3 m. E. of Maddur. These ladies
enraged their husbands by contrasting
their mean style of living with the
magnificence of their father. The two
Rajahs resolved to humble the pride of
their wives by attacking their father's
city, which they besieged inefi'ectually
for twelve years, until his Dalavay, or
commander-in-chief, betrayed him, and
engaged him in a game of chess whilethe
enemy‘s soldiers were passin the only
ford. Roused at last to his anger, the
Rajah slew his women and children, and
then rushing into the battle was slain,


ROUTE 29.
373
SERINGAPATAM
on which his sons-in-law and their
wives plun ed into the cataract. J at
Deva, Raja of Chenuapatnam, anszIm'
Ranga, Rajah of Talkad, then sacked
the city, and removed its inhabitants.
In 1791 Tipu, on the advance of Lord
Cornwallis, swept the adjoining country
of people and flocks, and drove them
into Shivasamudram. After this the
island was deserted, and became over-
grown with dense jungle infested with
wild beasts. The bridges which had
led to the town, formed of huge blocks
of black stone, some placed upright as
pillars, and others laid across in the
manner of Egyptian buildings, were
broken and dilapidated. However, in
1825 a generous person named Rama-
swami Mudeliar, who was a confidential
servant of the then Resident of Mysore,
carried a fine double bridge across the
stream, repaired the temples, and built
a D.B. The bridge, or bridges, are
built of hewn stone pillars, connected
by stone slabs, built on the rocky
bed of the river, and though rude are
good specimens of Indian construction.
In the rains the river is a furious
torrent, impassable except by the bridge.
About 1 m. distant from Gagana
Chukki, on the E. bank of the river, is
the cataract formed by the S. branch
of the Cauvery, which is called Bar
Chukki. The height from which the
water descends is about 200 ft., and
in the rainy season an unbroken sheet
of water 2 m. broad falls over the
precipice to that depth with stunning
roar. In the dry season the stream
separates into sometimes as many as
fourteen distinct falls. In the centre
is a deep recess shaped like a horse-
shoe, down which the main stream
plunges, and then, being confined in a
narrow channel of rock, springs forward
with great velocity, and falls a second
time about 30 ft. into a capacious
basin at the foot of the precipice. Both
the N. and the S. streams after form-
ing these cataracts rush on through
wild and narrow gor es, and, reunitin
on the N. E. of the is and, flow forwar
to the E. The visitor who can select
his own time will do well to choose
the rainy season for his visit, as well
on account of the greater beauty of the

scenery, as because the island in the
cold months is not healthy.]
74 in. French Rocks sta. It is so
called from being the place where the
French soldiers in the service of Haidar
and Tipu were stationed. The name
of theplace is properly Hirode; pop.
3000. The Fort, 2882 ft. above the
sea, is 3 m. N. of the rly. sta.
77 m. Ssnmosra'rm (Shr'i'rang-
patnam) sta. At the W. end of an
island in the Cauvery river. P0p., in-
cluding the suburb of Ganjam, 12,000.
The town has its name from a temple
of Vishnu Shri Range. This temple
is of great celebrity, and of much
higher antiquity than the city, which
di not rise to be of importance
until the time of the princes of
the Mysore dynasty. As a proof of
its great antiquity, the fact may be
cite that it is called the Adi Range,
or original Ranga, while the islands of
Shivasamudram and Seringham at
Trichinopoly are called respectively
Madh a Ranga and Antya Ranga,
“me iaeval Range.” and “modern
Range.” It is said that Gautama
Rishi worshipped at this temple, which
is in the Fort. A Tamil memoir in the
M‘Kenzie collection called Konga
desa. Charitm, commented on by Prof.
Dowson (JIR.A.S. vol. viii.), says:
“On the 7th Vaishakha sudh, 816A.s. =
894 A.D., a person named Tirumalayan
built a temple, and to the W. of it
erected an image of Vishnu, which he
called Tirumala Deva, upon some land
‘in the midst of the Cauvery, where in
former times the Western Ranganada
Swami had been worshipped by
Gautama Rishi,’ but which was then
entirely overrun with jungle. This
place he called Shri Ranga Patnam.”
In 1133 Ramanujachari, the Vish-
navite reformer, took refuge in Mysore
from the persecution of the Chola
Rajah, and converted from the Jain
faith Vishnu Vardhana, a famous Rajah
of the Hoysala Ballala dynasty. The
royal convert gave him the provmce
of Ashtagrama including Serinéapa-
tam, over which he appointed 0 core
called Prabhurs and Hebbars. ' In
1454 the Hebbar Timmana Obtalned


ROUTE 29.
875
SERINGAPATAM
have prevented him from joining his
cavalry, which, under the command of
his son Fath Haidar, and Purnea, were
hovering round the Bombay army.
He, however, decided on going into the
inner fort by a narrow sally'port, and
as he was attempting to do so, he
was met by the crowd flying from the
flank companies of the 12th Regiment ;
while the troops coming up behind
cut off all means of retreat. Both par-
ties seemed to have fired into the gate-
way, and some of the Europeans must
have passed through with the bayonet ;
as a wound evidently inflicted by that
weapon was discovered in the arm of
the Sultan. No individual claimed
the honour of having slain him, nor
did any of either party know that he
had fallen in the gateway. The as-
sailants were too much enraged to
think of anything but the destruction
of the enemy. Each division passed
on towards the E. end of the town,
and as they advanced the carnage
increased. The garrison threw them-
selves from the works, attempting to
escape into the E. part of the island,
and thence to their cavalry. The
greater part were killed by the fall,
or broke their limbs in the most
shocking manner. Mir Sadik, the
favourite, fell in attempting to get
through the gates. He is supposed to
have been killed by Tipu‘s soldiery,
and his corpse lay for some time
exposed to the insults of the populace,
none of whom passed without spitting
on it or striking it with a slipper ; for
to him the attributed most of their
sufferings uring the tyrannical reign
of the Sultan.
The two divisions of the storming
army now met at an open place
surrounding a very fine mosque, into
which the remains of the garrison
withdrew, and with their destruction
the fighting nearly ceased. Next day
the wounded of the enemy were col-
lected, and the mosque, which had
been the great scene of bloodshed, be
came now a place of refuge in which
these poor creatures had every attention
paid to them by the British surgeons.
In the Fort on the N. side, and
between the second and last walls, are

the wretched places in which Colonel
Baillie and other military prisoners
were confined from 1780 to the peace
in 1785.
A ood view of the cit and sur-
roun ing country may be 0 tained by
ascending one of the miners of the
J umma Musjid, built by Tipu not long
before his death. The houses in the
Fort have been for the most part
demolished, and those that remain are
greatly dila idated. The place is no-
toriously un ealthy. The spot where
the breaching battery was placed is
marked by two cannons fixed in the
ground opposite the W. angle, and
close to the river's edge, and the breach
itself is visible a short distance to the
right of the road to Mysore. All
along this part where the stormers
rushed to the slaughter there are now
trees with luxuriant foliage, and the
grass grows freshly under them. Tipu’s
Palace is within the walls. The
greater part of it has been converted
into a warehouse for sandalwood, and
the rest has been demolished. It was
a very large building surrounded by a
massive wall of stone and mud, and
was of a mean appearance. The private
apartments of Tipu formed a square,
and the entrance was by a strong and
narrow passage, in which four ti ers
were chained. Within was the all
in which Tipu wrote, and to it few
except Mir Sadik were ever admitted.
Behind the hall was the bedchamber.
The door was strongly secured on the
inside, and a close iron grating defended
the windows. Buchanan says that
Tipu, lest any person should fire upon
him while in bed, slept in a hammock
suspended from the roof by chains, in
sue a situation as to be invisible from
the windows. “In the hammock
were found a sword and a pair of loaded
pistols." The only other passage led
into the women’s apartments, which
contained 600 women, of whom 80
were wives of the Sultan, and the rest
attendants.
The Darya Daulat Bagh, a. summer
palace of Tipu, just outside the Fort,
is distinguished for its graceful pro-
portions and the arabesque work in
rich colours which covers it. The W.


376 ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO
BANGALORE AND MYSORE India
wall is painted with the victory of
Haidar over Colonel Baillie near Con-
jeveram in 1780. It had been defaced
prior to the siege, but the Duke of
Wellington, then Colonel Arthur Wel-
lesley, who made this arden his
residence, had it restore . It was
afterwards whitewashed and almost
obliterated, but Lord Dalhousie, having
visited the spot during his tour in
Mysore, ordered it to be repainted by
a native artist who remembered the
ori "11:11. The erspective is very bad,
an the general efi'ect grotesque, but
the painter has succeede in caricatur-
ing the expression and attitude of the
British soldiers, and the Frenchmen
are very lifelike.
The Lal Bagh is a garden on the
other side of Ganjam, which suburb
intervenes between it and the Darya
Daulat. It contains the mausoleum
of Haidar and Tipu, a square building
surmounted by a dome, with minarets
at the angles, and surrounded by a
corridor which is supported by pillars
of black hornblende, a stone that is
remarkable for its beautiful polish.
The double doors, inlaid with ivory,
were given by Lord Dalhousie. Each
of the tombs is covered with a crimson
pall. The whole is kept up at Govern-
ment expense. The tablet on Tipu's
tomb is in verse to this effect: The
light of Islam and the faith left the
world. Tipu became a martyr for the
faith of Mohammed. The sword was
lost and the son of Haidar fell a noble
martyr. The inscription gives the
date 1213 A.H.=1799 A.D. In the
Lal Bagh is a simple memorial to
Colonel Baillie, who died in 1782, a
prisoner of Tipu. On the way to
that place, on slightly rising ground
near the road, are interesting memor-
ials of the officers and men of the
12th and 74th Regiments killed in
action in 1799.
86 m. MYSOBE sta.:k (D.B. on N.
side of town), the capital of the state
so called (the pop. of Mysore state is
4,859,760), at the N.W. base of Cha-
mundi Hill, an isolated peak rising to
3489 ft. above the sea. Mysore with its
three "burbs has 60,000 inhabitants.
The town is built in a valle formed by
two ridges running N. an S. There
is a slight ascent on the N. side. The
streets are broad and regular, and there
are many substantial houses two or
three stories high, with terraced roofs.
Most of the houses, however, are tiled.
The town has a neat and thriving look,
and the sanitation has been much at-
tended to by the municipality. In the
Fort, which occupies the S. quarter,
the appearance of the houses is less
promising, and the streets are narrow
and irregular. The Jail is nearly
opposite it to the W., and the Residency
is Q m. S. in the E. part of the town,
and another i m. S. are St. Bartholo-
mew’s Church and the Wesleyan Church.
The summer Palace is about 600 yds.
E. of the Fort, while another palace is
in the Fort itself, and a third some-
what to the W.
The Port is quadrangular, three of
the sides being 450 yds. long, and the
fourth or S. side somewhat longer.
There are gates on the N., S., and W.
Those on the N. and S. are protected
by outworks: flanking towers com-
mand the curtain at intervals. At
the S.E. angle there is a casemate,
and a parapeted cavalier at the N.E.,
but the defences are mean and ill-
planned. A ditch surrounds the Fort,
and a sloping glacis covered with
houses abuts it on all sides but the
E., where the ditch is separated from
the Devaraj Tank onl by the high-
road to Nanjangud. The interior of
the Fort is crowded with houses, chiefly
occupied by retainers of the palace.
The Maharajah's Palace within the
Fort faces due E., and is built in the
ultra-Hindu style. There are a few
paintings by a European. The front
is tawdry and supported by four fan-
tastically carved wooden pillars. The
Sejje or Dasara hall is an open gallery
where the Rajah showed himself to the
people seated on his throne on great
occasions. The throne is very remark-
able. According to one account it
was resented to the Ambassadors of
Chik a Deva Rajah in 1699 by the
Emperor Aurangzib (Wilks, vol. i. p.
106) for their prince. The palace
legend at Mysore is that it was found


ROUTE 29.
MYSORE
377
buried at Penkonda by the founders
of the Vijayanagar Empire, Hakka or
Harihara and Bukka, who were told
where it was by one Vidyaranya, an
ascetic. The legend goes on to say
that it was the throne of the Pandus,
when they reigned at Hastinapura,
whence Kampula Rajah brought it,
and buried it at Penkonda. It is
at all events certain that it was used
by Chikka Deva and his successors up
to the time of Tipu Sultan; that it
was found in a lumber-room when
Seringapatam was taken by the British,
and that it was employed at the corona-
tion of the Rajah to whom they con-
ceded the government. It was origin-
ally of fig-wood overlaid with ivory,
but after the restoration of the Rajah
the ivory was plated with gold and
silver carved with Hindu mythological
figures. The principal gate of the
palace opens into a passage under the
Sejje leading into an open court. At
the farther or W. side of this court
is the door leading to the women’s
apartments, which occupy the W. part
of the palace. In the N. side are the
armoury, library, and various offices.
The Amba Vilasa. is an upper room.
It is hung with portraits of officers
connected with Mysore. The floor is
of dazzling white chunam, and the
doors are overlaid with ivory or silver
richly carved. The sleeping apart-
ments, which are small, open upon
the Amba Vilasa. The palace has
been almost all built since 1800, but
is already in bad repair. Tipu de-
molished the old palace of the Rajahs,
but left one inner room with mud
walls of great thickness. This is
called the “Painted Hall,” from the
coloured decoration of the ceiling, and
is said to have been the State reception-
room. In front of the palace there is
an open space, but on all other sides
it is pressed upon by the huts of poor
people.
Opposite to the W. gate of the Fort
is a handsome building called the
Mohan Mahal, or “pleasure~palace,”
built as a place of amusement for
European officers. The upper story
is adorned with pictures in the Indian
style. E. of the town are the houses

of European residents. Here is the
Residency, built by Colonel Wilks at
the beginning of this centu , in the
Doric style. Sir John Malco m added
the back part, in which is one of the
largest rooms in S. India. As the
post of Resident has been abolished,
this building is occu ied by the Com-
missioner of the Asgtagram Division.
The District Civil Office was built
and for some time occupied by the
Duke of Wellington, then Col. Wel-
lesley.
Until the beginning of the 17th
cen the Mysore chiefs paid tribute
to the Viceroy of Seringapatam, who
was an oflicer of the Rajah of Vijaya-
nagar, but in 1610 they conquered
that city, and thenceforward became
powerful. Tipu tried to obliterate
all traces of the Hindu rule, and razed
the Fort of Mysore to the ground, using
the materials to build another fort on
an eminence 1 m. to the E., which he
called Nazarabad, some remains of
which are still to be seen. When
Tipu fell, the stones were brought
back and the Fort rebuilt on its
original site. Owing to the presence
of the court, Mysore grew as Seringa-
patam decreased. The Rajah was
divested of power in 1831, owing to
the disturbances occasioned by his
misrule, but he continued to reside in
the palace at Mysore, and one-fifth of
the revenue was assigned to him. He
died at Mysore, aged seventy-five,
in 1868.
Chamundi, the hill which overlooks
Mysore, is 2 m. S.E. of the Fort. It is
precipitous and rises to 3489 ft. above
sea-level ; a fine road 5% m. long leads
to the top, on which is a temple.
Human sacrifices were offered here
until the time of Haidar ’Ali. Two-
thirds of the way up is a colossal
figure of Nandi, the sacred bull of
Shiva, hewn out of the solid rock—a
well-executed work.
Nanjangud, 12 m. to the S., possesses
a temple 385 ft. long by 160 ft. broad,
supported by 147 columns. It is one
of the most sacred in the Mysore dis-
trict, and enjoys a Government grant
of 20,197 rs. There is a celebrated
car-festival here in March, which lasts


380 ROUTE 30.
Indi”
THE SHEVAROYS AND THE NILGIRIS
Gaming’s Seat. Below to the S. lie
extensive col-Tee plantations. The path
then descends considerably, and turns
S. to a high bluff with a path all round
it, overlooking the chasm into which
the stream that makes the Katharine
Fall descends. The view here is fine.
The waterfall does not exceed 300 ft.
in height, but the ravine is very deep.
This ride affords a good idea of about
half the S.E. frontier of the Nilgiris,
but beyond Kotagiri it becomes wilder.
Excursion, to the Hulikal drug, or
Tiger-rock Fort, which is on the summit
of a hill that towers up to the left of
the pass in ascending from Mettu-
palaiyam. This expedition is one that
requires the whole day from dawn to
sunset, and is very fatiguing. The road
to it turns off at the first Zlgzag on the
new ghat about 2 m. from Coonoor. A
rough bridle-path along the ridge leads
to it. The best line to follow for part
of the way is a private road across a
coffee-estate, but the owner’s consent
must be obtained. The peak is said
to be 8585 ft. high, and commands in
clear weather a splendid view. It is
said that the Fort here was erected by
Haidar ’Ali, but it does not command
a pass, and is so inaccessible that it
must have been almost impossible to
supply the garrison with provisions.
From the Post Office at Coonoor it is
about 3 m. to the Wellington Barracks
at J akatala. About § m. before reach!
ing the barracks a pretty fountain at
a cross-road is reached. The road to
the barracks turns off here sharply.
The barracks, an unsightly pile, nearly
900 ft. long, but believed to be among
the finest in India, lie at the foot of
a very steep hill, on which is the
commandant’s house with its pretty
garden. About half-way up this hill
is a reservoir. The water is brought in
pipes from a spot in the hills about 4
m. from the barracks, which were
finished in 1860. The hospital was
built in 1854. A large piece of ground
close to the barracks is cultivated by
the soldiers, where both flowers and
vegetables are ve successfully grown.
The mean annnsily range of the ther-
mometer is 64°, of the barometer 24°.
The rainfall is about 70 in.

00tacamund.*—From Wellington
Barracks to Ootacamund is 9 m. The
road is generally very bare of trees, and
skirts a precipice of some hundred feet
in height, which looks down on patches
of cultivation. Ootacamund is in a
valley surrounded by lofty hills, of
which Dodabeta on the E. is the highest,
being 8622 ft. above sea-level. But
there are also other high hills, as Elk
Hill, 8090 ft. high. The Lake is 1% m.
long from E. to W., but narrow. It is
7220 ft. above sea-level, and the road
round it is one of the pleasantest drives
in the place. The principal Church, St.
Stephen’s, is near ,the Post Oflice, the
Public Library, and the principal shops.
The Market is close to the E. end of
the Lake, and the Jail is to its W. on
the N. side. St. Thomas’s Church is
on the S. side of the Lake and close to
it W. of the bridge.
A visit to the Chinchona Plantations
of Dodabeta will afford a grand view
over Ooty, to the W., and the valley of
the Moyar river, to the E.
The Botanical Gardens, established
in 1840 by public subscription, are
beautifully laid out in terraces one
above another at the foot of a hill,
which gradually rises till it culminates
in the peak of Dodabeta, 1206 ft. above
the Gardens, and 8622 ft. above the
sea. The Superintendent’s house is
charmingly situated, and has been used
by the Governor before the new Govern-
ment House was erected.
The Chinchona Plantations are not
much in point of appearance, as the
tree is small (25 ft.) and has but little
foliage. The species here cultivated is
the afiei'nal'is, and is of three kinds:
(1) the Condaminea ; (2) the Bonplan-
dinia; (3) the Crisps. The system
ursued has been that after the tree
as grown eight years it is barked.
Half of the bark is taken off in six
months during the rains, and the other
half next year. The tree then rests
one year, so that each yield takes three
years. When barked it is swathed in
moss, a system which Mr. M‘Ivor, the
late Superintendent, introduced from
Peru. After the tree has been mossed
it gives an improved yield, as it de-
velops more bitterand alkaloid particles.


ROUTE 30.
381
OOTACAMUND, KATY, MURKURTI PEAK
The bark is cut off in parallel slips, and
ows again after the mossing. The
gutch system since introduced consists
of shaving off the outer layers of bark,
never completely stripping any portion
of the tree. This is the crown bark.
There are three other kinds of Chin-
chona, which do not succeed here.
These are the red bark, the Chinchona
macrantha, or gray bark, and the yel-
low bark. These kinds are dying out
at the plantation.
From the top of the ridge a most
superb panorama is seen. Looking to
the S. W. one notices Elk Hill, 8090 ft.
high, behind which, and not visible, is
the Lawreme Asylum, 7330 ft. Farther
to the S.W. is Ohinna. Dodabeta, or
Little Dodabeta, 7849 ft., and in the
far W. Cairn Hill, 7583 ft. Ootaca-
mund itself and its Lake and St. Ste-
phen’s Church Hill, 7429 ft. Beyond
are still higher bills, as Snowdzm, 8299
ft., and Club Hill, 8030 ft. The finest
view, however, is to the E. Here is
Orange Valley, where oranges grow
wild. Here too is the Moyar valley,
ignony termed “the Mysore Ditch,"
but really profound and gloomy with
forests and the shadows of overhanging
hills. Here also is seen dimly theGajal-
hatti Pass and Kotagin', and mountains
beyond almost unknown and inacces-
sible from dense forests containing
savage beasts. The visitor will observe
the two kinds of acacia, the melan-
oxylon and dealbata, and the euca-
lyptus globulus, or blue gun tree,
which at its third year she s its blue
leaves, and puts out others of a dark
een. After descending from the
eights he may take a path to the
N. E., previously, of course, having
ordered his carriage to meet him at the
foot of the hill in that direction. The
whole ex edition will take about six
or seven ours, that is supposing that
the highest peak, Dodabeta itself, is
visited.
The Lawrence Asylwm. is 5 m. from
the Post Office at Ootacamund, and is a
handsome structure, with a tower over
70 ft. high. The dining-room is large
enough to accommodate 300 boys. In
it are good portraits of Sir Hope and
Lady Grant. The boys learn among

other things telegraphy, and compete
for appointments in the Government
Telegraph Department; others are
taught trades, and some are enlisted
in regiments stationed in India. The
visitor may return by another road,
and will notice a fine piece of water.
He will remark also the tea-planta-
tions. The plant is pruned down to
3 ft. and bears after five years: the
leaves are large and slightly aromatic.
In some of the compounds or grounds
at Ooty are beautiful shrubs. Baikie’s
Guide says that a heliotrope in Mr.
Dawson’s arden attained 10 ft. in
height, an 30 ft. in circumference,
and a verbena 20 ft. in height, with
the branches of a tree.
Katy.—There is a pleasant drive of
5 m. to the S.E. to Katy. A Govern-
ment farm was establishedlin the Katy
valley in 1831, in the hope that Euro-
pean produce might be derived from it.
This idea was not realised, and the
Governor of Pondicherry then inhabited
the farmhouse for a time. After this
Lord Elphinstone took a lease of the
property for 99 years. He enlarged the
building, and furnished it magnificently
with articles selected by Count d’Orsay.
In 1845 Mr. Casamajor, of the Madras
Civil Service, bought the property for
15,000 rs. and expended 10,000 is. on
it. At his death he bequeathed the
greater part of his fortune to the Basle
Mission, which has a church and con-
gregation here.
Murkurti Peak is 20 In. due W. of
Ootacamund, among the grand moun-
tains of the Kundas, where the scenery
is magnificent. 8 m. can be driven; the
remaining 12 m. must be on horseback.
Of course the traveller must take his
refreshments with him, for none are to
be had in that wild region. It will be
also well to take a rifle. This peak is
8402 ft. high, while Avalanche Hill
is 8502 ft., Kundah Peak 8353 ft., and
Devibetta (“Sugar-loaf Hill”) only
6571 ft. Another name for the Mur-
kurti Peak is Taigannam. “It is a
spot held sacred by the Tudas as
the residence of a personage whom
they believe to be the keeper of the


382 ROUTE 30.
Iml'la.
THE SHEVAROYS AND THE NILGIRIB
gates of heaven. " 1 The religion of this
singular tribe, the Tudas, has not yet
been definitely ascertained. The author
of this book conversed with one of their
old men in Kauarese, and on inter-
rogatin him on the subject of his
faith, t e old man said, “I worship
the Swami, who dwells in heaven, but
I know not His name.” In going to
this peak the traveller follows the
windings of the Pavhk river to its con-
fluence with the Paikari. Thence he
will trace the Paikari to its source,
which is close to the Murkurti Peak.
From the source of the Paikari an easy
ascent of 1% m. leads to the summit of
the peak; and there, should the mist
and clouds fortunately roll away, a
grand scene will present itself to the
view. The W. side of the mountain
is a terrific and perfectly perpendicular
precipice of at least 7000 ft. The
mountain seems to have been cut sheer
through the centre, leaving not the
slightest shelve or ledge between the
pinnacle on which the traveller stands
and the level of the lains below. To
add to the terror of t is sublime view,
the spot on which the gazer places his
feet is as crumbling as precipitous, the
ground being so insecure that with
almost a touch lar e masses can be
hurled down the pro igious hei ht into
the barrier forest at the foot of t e hills,
which at such a distance looks like moss.
Many parts of this locality are still un-
explored; and the lover of the pic-
turesque, the man of science, and the
sportsman will find unending amuse-
ment in the wondrous scenery around.
Other sights on the Nilgiris are the
waterfalls at U- Y al-H atli, and those at
the top of the Sigur Ghat ; there is also
another much finer fall, in the heart of
the Kundas, formed b the Bhawani,
400 or 500 ft. high, With a large body
of water, and surrounded by scener of
the most savage grandeur, but it is im-
cult of access. The Ranga-Swami
Temple, and the fortress of Gagana
Chukki, may also be visited. The
native villa es of the Tudas and other
tribes may e seen en route in any of
these expeditions.
The stone-circles, which the Tudas
1 Smoult'a ed. of Batkie'l Guide.

call Phins, and which contain images,
urns, relics, and some very prettily-
wrought gold ornaments, are found in
many parts of the hills, but the most con-
venient locality for a visit from Ootaca-
mand is the hill of Karoni, 3 m. to the
S. The circles are built of rough un-
hewn stone, some of them of a large
size, which must have been brou ht
from a considerable distance. be
history of their construction is quite
unknown.
It remains to say somethingqof the
sport to be obtained on the ilgiris,
and of the natural products. The
woods in general are so ornamentally
disposed as to remind one of the parks
in a European country. They are
easily beaten, and from the end of
October to March woodcock are found
in them. Jungle-fowl and s ur-fowl
are very numerous. Partri ges are
rare ; quails common in the lower parts
of the hills. Snipe come in in Sep-
tember, and are seldom found after
April. The solitary snipe (Scoquaz
major) is occasionally shot. There
are blackbirds, larks, thrushes, wood-
peckers, imperial pigeons, blue wood-
pigeons, doves, and green plovers in
abundance. There is also an immense
variety of hawks, and among them
a milk-white species, with a large
black mark between the wings ; as also
a cream-coloured species. Large black
eagles are occasionally seen ; and owls
of various sorts, particularly an
immense horned kind. Hares and
porcupines abound, and do much
amage to the gardens. Both are
excellent eating; the flesh of the
porcupine resembles delicate pork.
ungle sheep or muntjak can be found
in nearly all the sholas around the
station. In the most inaccessible parts
of the Kundas the ibex ma be found,
but are very shy and ' cult to
approach. Among the lar er game
wid hogs and sambar or ek afford
good sport. Pole-cats, martins, jackals,
wild dogs, and panthers are numerous.
So, too, is the black bear, especially in
the early part of the monsoon, when
they ascend the hills in pursuit of a
lar e brown beetle, their favourite
foo . Among the tall grass, which is


ROUTE 31 _
383
MADRAS TO TINNEVEL
often as high as a man's head, and in
the thicker and larger sholas the royal
tiger is not unfrequently met with.
ROUTE 31
MADRAS T0 CONJEVERAM, MADURA,
AND TINNEVELLY BY THE SOUTH
INDIAN RAILWAY, 433 MILES.
Madras is described under Madras
City.
34 m. Chingleput junc. sta. (R.)
A line of 39 m. runs to Arkonam
junc. sta. (R.) on the Madras Rly.
(Rte. 22.)
The Fort here, through part of which
the railway passes, contains the Public
Offices and Reformatory School, and was
erected by the Rajahs of Vijayanagar
at the end of the 16th century. It
played an important part during the
contest between the English and
French, and was once bombarded by
Clive; it was afterwards a place of
confinement for French prisoners;
and during the siege of Madras by
Lally it was of enormous use by en-
abling the garrison to annoy the
French rear, and intercept their com-
munications.
[On the branch between Chingleput
and Arkonam is Conjeveram sta.
(Ka'rwhipuram, the Golden City), 60 m.
from Madras by Arkonam, 56 m. by
Chingleput. The Benares of Southern
Hindustan, one of the 7 sacred cities
(40,000 inhab.) The great festival here
is in May. The Temple, about 2m. from
the rly. sta. , is dedicated to Ekambarah
Swami, which may mean the Deity
with the single garment. Just before
reaching the great temple there is a
mosque, which was formerly a Hindu
temple. The Great Gopum is on the



S. side of the 0 enclosure, and
has ten stories, an an enormous top
without any window or means of ascent.
The topmost five stories _have been re-
paired and somewhat altered. The
total height is 188 ft. In the view
from the top are seen 2 open pavilions,
consisting of a stone roof on 16 stone
pillars, 18 ft. high, carved in alto-
relievo. The chief part of the town,
which is full of fine trees, and has very
broad streets, with low houses and a
good many smaller pagodas, is also
visible, as is the railway to Arkonam.
2'} m. S. is seen the Palar river. S. E.
is seen the Vishnava temple at Little
Conjeveram. E., and outside the
enclosure, is a magnificently carved
wooden car, very high, with massive
wooden wheels. Passing through the
Great Gopura an open space is entered,
and at 60 yds. to the left is the Hall
of 1000 Pillars. This hall stands to
the W. of the Great Gopura, and at its
N. end has another fine gopura, not so
high as the first. In this hall are 20
rows of 27 pillars each, making alto-
gether 540, instead of 1000. Most of
the pillars have alto-relievo carvings,
but some are plain. In the centre of
the hall the pillars have been closed
with wattle, so as to form a chamber,
in which various figures of monsters
are kept, which are carried in proces-
sion on high days. Only caste Hindus
are permitted to enter the adytum,
where a lamp is kept burning. There
are four rows of ornate pillars with
capitals of masonry before the vimanah,
and between it and the base of a small
gopura it is usual to bring out Nauteh
girls to exhibit their performances to
visitors. Between the vimanah and
the Great Go ura is a very old
temple with a ong inscription on its
outer wall in Granthi. In this, the
Ekambarah Temple, there are three
gopuras.
The Vishnu Temple in Little Con-
jeveram is about 2 m. off. Vishnu is
worshipped here under the name of
Varada Rajah, “boon-giving king.”
The entrance is under a gopura, Wthh
has seven stories, and is about 100 ft.
high. On both sides of the gateway
are Sanscrit inscriptions in the Tamil


‘I'
384 ROUTE 31.
character, called Granthi. There are
great numbers of Nautch girls. After
passing through the gopura, you have
on your left a hall of pillars, which is
the building best worth seeing in
Conjeveram. The pillars are carved in
most marvellous fashion, the bases
representing riders on horses and on
hippogriffs. At the S.E. corner is a
remarkable carving of a chain with
eight links, like a cable, terminating
in the many heads of the Shesh Nag at
one end, and at the other in a sort of
tail. Visitors are not allowed to enter
this hall. N. of the hall is a Teppa
Kulam and a small mandapam, with a
double row of pillars. E. of the Kulam,
or tank, is a small temple dedicated to
the Chakrah, or discus, of Vishnu.
Here, at the request of a visitor, the
jewels will be shown. Ornaments for
the head, of which there are at least five,
are called Kmula and Kiraten, and are
like two basins, one placed on the other
reversed, of gold, and studded with
rubies, diamonds, and emeralds, worth
from 5000 to 10,000 rs. each. Nagasemz
is a fillet 1% in. broad, studded with
gems, used to bind the hair of the
goddess Vishnu’s consort. Kantha
Ham are necklaces of various kinds, of
pearls, rubies, and emeralds. Tu're are
aigrettes of rubies. Gold chains are
too numerous to mention, and are
worth from 800 to 1000 rs. Observe
also a Makkam Kantha, a sort of neck-
lace, worth 7000 rs., given by an Aehari.
Observe too the padams, gold casings
for the feet of idols, studded with
ewels, and a Malckara K anlha, a neck-
lace with pendants, worth 8600 rs. , said
to have been given by Lord Olive, and a
Paula Ku/re, an ornament for the neck,
and Nei Kath, frontlets. On the wall
of the enclosure are numerous Tamil
words and letters, said to be builders‘
marks. On the W. and E. side of the
wall of the inner enclosure, about the
centre, is a mark something like a
horse-shoe, which is said to be the first
letter of Vishnu, Ever since 1789 two
sects have been fighting fiercely about
the form of this symbol. The keepers of
the shrine say it should be made with
a plain line.
On the way back from the temple
MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY

I vulia
one may visit the Malcbarah, or tomb
of Hamid Auliya, who was the minister
of a king of Bijapur, and subsequently
canonised. The buildin has a small
dome, and stands 100 y 5. back from
the road in a garden.
A few In. N.W. of Conjeveram
Baillie’s Division was cut to pieces by
Haidar ’Ali, and Sir Hector Munro
threw his guns and baggage into the
Temple Tank on his retreat to Chingle-
Put-l
75 m. Tindivanam sta. (R.), D. B.
[18 m. W. of this station by road is
Ging'i (Chcm'i), considered the most
famous fort in the Carnatic. The
interest of the place is exclusively his-
torical. The fortress consists of three
strongly-fortifiedhills connected by long
walls of circumvallation. The highest
and most important hill is called
Raja 'ri, about 500 or 600 ft. high,
whic consists of a ridge terminating
in an overhanging bluff, facing the S.,
and falling with a precipitous sweep to
the plain on the N. On the summit
of this bluff stands the citadel. On the
S.W., where the crest of the ridge
meets the base of the bluff, a narrow
and steep ravine probably gave a difli-
cult means of access to the top, across
which the Hindu engineer built three
walls, each about 20 or 25 ft. high,
rising one behind the other at some
little distance, and rendering an attack
by escalade in that direction almost
impracticable. On the N. side a narrow
chasm divides a portion of the rock
from the main mass. This chasm the
fortifiers of the rock artificially pro-
lon ed and deepened; and where it
ha a width of about 24 ft., and a
depth of about 60 ft., they threw a
wooden bridge over it, and made the
only means of ingress into the citadel
through a narrow stone gateway facing
the bridge.
Several ruins of fine buildings are
situated inside the fort. Of these the
most remarkable are the two pagodas,
the Kaliyana Mahal, the Gymkhana,
the Granaries, and the ’Idgah. The
Kaliyana Mahal consists of a square
court surrounded by rooms for _the
ladies of the Governor's household. In


ROUTE 31.
385
VILLUPUBAM—PONDIGHERRY
the middle is a square tower of eight
stories, with a pyramidical roof.
The principal objects of interest are
—the great gun on the top of Rajaviri,
which has the figures 7560 stampe on
it; the Ra‘ah’s bathing-stone, a large
smooth sla of granite. The prisoners’
well is a very singular boulder, about 15
to 20 ft. high, poised on a rock near the
Chakrakulam, and surmounted by a
low circular brick wall. It has a
natural hollow passing through it like
a well.
Gingi was a stronghold of the Vijay-
anagar power, which was at the height
of its prosperity towards the close of the
15th century, and was finally over-
thrown by the allied Mohammedan
kings of the Deccan in 1564 at Talikot.
In ,1677 the fort fell to Shivaji by
stratagem, and remained in Maratha
hands for twenty-one years. In 1690
the armies of the Delhi emperor, under
Zulfikar Khan, were despatched against
Gingi with a view to the final extirpa-
tion of the Maratha power: the fort
ultimately fell in 1698, and became the
headquarters of the standing army in
Arcot. In 1750 the French under M.
Bussy captured it by a skilful and dar-
ineg executed night-surprise, and held
it with an efficient garrison for eleven
years, defeating one attack by the
English in 1752.]
98. Villupuram junc. sta.:k (R.)
Branch N.W. to Vellore (Rte. 29) and
Tirupati (Rte. 22).
[And E. 24 m. to Pondicherry sta. :0:
(141,000 inhab.), capital of the French
possessions in India, which have an ex-
tent ofl78 sq. m., and a pop. of 280,385.
The town, founded 1674 by Francois
Martin, is divided by a canal into White
and Black Towns,—the White Town
next the sea. The Government House, a
handsome building, is situated at the
N. side of the Place, within 300 yds. of
the sea. The means of locomotion here
is a pousse-pousse, which is like a bath-
chair pushed by one or two men, and
glides along at a great rate over the
level streets. The Cathedral, built
1855, is called Notre Dame dos Artgz's.
The Pier is 150 metres long. At its
[India]

entrance, ranged in a semicircle, are
eight pillars, 38 ft. high, of a grayish
blue stone, brought from Gingi, which
is 40 m. distant as the crow flies. The
French assert that these and others
were given to M. Dupleix by the
Governor of Gingi. On the third pillar
on the left side, looking towards the sea,
is an astronomical plan by some as-
tronomers who were directed to fix the
exact. longitude of Pondicherry. On
the next pillar is inscribed “Place
de la République." 50 yds. W. of
the W. end of the pier is the statue of
thpleix, on a pedestal formed of old
fragments of temples brou ht from
Gingi. At a distance this pe estal has
anything but a graceful appearance,
and seems formed of logs of wood. On
the lodge is the date 1742-54. Four
more pillars grace this end of the Place.
The band plays here twice a week, and
there are seats and a promenade. At
the S. end of the promenade is the
Hotel de Ville, a neat building, and E.
of this on the beach is a battery of
eight small guns. There is also a Light-
house, which shows a light 89 ft. above
the sea. The High Court (La Cour d’
Appcl) is a handsome square building.
A canal separates the European from
the Native Town. Crossing this canal,
and turning to the N., you pass a large
hospital, built at the expense of the
Comte de Richemont. N. of this is
the Missionaries’ Church, which is
called La Cathe'drale de la Ville Noire.
N. of this again is a school with 450
pupils, on the facade of which is in-
scribed, “ Collége Calvé Soupraya Chet-
tiyar,” after the founder. It is a fine
white building. The Prism Géné-
rate, in which are generally about 330
prisoners, is opposite to the clock-tower,
built at the expense of a native resi-
dent. Here is another pillar from Gingi,
making thirteen in all. A boulevard
begins here which goes round the town.
Continuing the drive and turning to
the S.E., one may visit the cotton-
spinning factory, or Filature, called
Savanah, and founded in 1826. Here
is an artesian well which gives 200
litres a minute of beautifully clear
water. The public gardens are also
worth a visit.
2 C


386 ROUTE 31.
India
MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
The places under the authority of
Pondicherry are Karikal, south of Trail-
quebar; Yanan, and the lodge of Masu-
lipatam; Mahe’ and the lodge of Calicut
on the Malabar coast; and Chanda-
nagar, in Bengal, 011 the Hooghly.
Pondicherry itself has an area of 115
sq. in. The Governor receives 1600
rs. a month, the Attorney-General
200 rs., and the four senior judges
400 rs.
History.
In 1672 Pondicherry, then a small vil-
lage, was purchased by the French from
the king of Vijayanagar, seventy-one
years after the first arrival of French
ships in India. In 1693 the Dutch took
Pondicherry, but restored it, with the
fortifications greatly improved, in 1697,
at the peace of Ryswick. On the 26th
of August 1748 Admiral Boscawen laid
siege to it with an army of 6000 men,
but was compelled to raise the siege 011
the 6th of October, with the loss of
1065 Europeans. M. Dupleix was the
Governor, and had under him a garri-
son of 1800 Europeans and 2000 Sepoys.
On the 29th of April 1758 M. Lally
landed at Pondiche , and commenced
a vi orous war, whidh ended ruinously
for t 1e French.
In the beginning of July 1760 Col.
Coote, with 2000 Europeans, and 6000
natives, began to blockade Pondicherry.
On the 9th of September the English
arm , havin received reinforcements,
carried the ound-hedge, and two of
the four redoubts which defended it.
On the 27th of November M. Lally,
finding the arrison hard pressed by
famine, expefied all the native inhabit-
ants from the town, 1400 in number.
These being driven back by the English,
attempted to re-enter the fort, but were
fired on by the French, and some of
them killed. For ei ht days these
unfortunates wandered between the
lines of the two hostile armies, subsist
ing on the food which they had about
them and the roots of At last,
finding Lally inexorab e, the English
suffered them to pass. The hopes of
deliverance in the minds of the French
were soon dis elled by the arrival
of fresh men-0 -war from Ceylon and

Y
Madras, so that the blockading fleet
was again raised to eleven sail of the
line. On 16th Dec. 1760 the town
surrendered, as the garrison was reduced
to 1100 men of the line fit for duty, and
these enfeebled b famine and fatigue,
with but two days’ provisions left.
In 1763 Pondicherry was restored to
the French. On 9th Aug. 1778 Sir
Hector Munro, with an army of 10,500
men, of whom 1500 were Europeans,
again laid siege to it. On the 10th Sir
E. Vernon, with four ships, fought an
indecisive battle in the roads with five
French ships under M. Trongolloy,
who, some days after, sailed off at
night, and left the town to its fate.
Pondiche , after an obstinate defence,
was surren ered in the middle of Octo-
ber by M. Bellecombe, the Governor,
and shortly after the fortifications were
destroyed. In 1783 it was re-trans-
ferred to the French, and on the 23d
of August 1793 retaken by the British.
The Treaty of Amiens, 1802, restored it
to its original masters, whereu on Bona-
parte sent thither General de aen, with
seven other generals, 1400 regulars, a
bodyguard of eighty horse,and £100,000
in specie, with a view, doubtless, to ex-
tensive 0 stations in India. His in-
tentions, rowever, whatever the may
have been, were defeated by t e re-
occupation of Pondicherry in 1803.
The'place was then attached to S.
Arcot, and yielded a yearly revenue of
45,000 rs. In 1817 it was restored to
the French, and has remained ever
since under their rule.]
125 n1. Cuddalore New Town sta.
127 m. Cuddalore Old Town sta. (R.)
From the former station, Fort St. David
can most conveniently be visited, and
it is nearest to the public offices in the
civil station, and the D.B. At the Old
Town station are the railway work-
shops, and the residences of a consider-
able number of Europeans, also the
church and jail. An English manu-
script, “The Cuddalore Obituary, " kept
in the church here is worth seeing.
The Jail is an old cotton factory. The
Church is at Old Town, and is interest-
ing on account of the old tombs in and


ROUTE 31.
387
PORTO NOVO—CHIDAMBARAM
about it. A small church has recently
been built in the New Town.
Fort St. David is interesting only
on account of its history. From 1691,
when it was purchased by the E. I. Co.,
it remained in the hands of the British
until 1758, when it was besieged and
taken, after many unsuccessful attempts,
by the French, only to fall back into
British hands at the peace of 1783.
All that now remains of the fort are
the ditch, almost filled up, the founda-
tions of the once strong ramparts, and
some masses of the fallen walls.
144 m. Porto Novo sta. The town
stands on the N. bank of the river
Velar, close to the sea, and is called by
the Indians, Mahmud Bandar and Fi-
ringipet. The Portuguese settled here
during the latter part of the 16th century,
being the first Europeans who landed
on the Coromandel coast (see Manual
Q)" S. And, by J. H. Garstin, C.S.)
In 1678 the Dutch abandoned their
factory at Porto Novo and Devapat—
nam, and went to Pulicat.
The chief historical recollection which
attaches to Porto Novo is that, with-
in 3 m. of it to the N., close to the
sea-shore, was fought one of the most
important Indian battles of the last
century. Sir Eyre Coote had arrived
at Porto Novo on the 19th of June
1781, after having been repulsed the
day before in an attack on the fortified
Pagoda of Chidambaram, which he con-
ducted in person. Haidar ’Ali was
encouraged by the success of his troops
on that occasion to hazard a battle,
and he took up and fortified an advan-
tageous position on the only road by
which the English could advance to
Cuddalore. An account of the battle
which ensued will be found in Mill,
vol. iv. pp. 209-212. A victory was
obtained, of which Sir J. Malcolm
speaks in the following terms: “If a
moment was to be named when the
existence of the British power depended
upon its native troops, we should fix
upon the battle of Porto Novo. Driven
to the sea-shore, attacked by an enemy
exulting in recent success, confident in
his numbers, and strong in the terror
of his name, every circumstance com-

bined that could dishearten the small
body of men on whom the fate of the
war depended. Not aheart shrunk from
the trial. Of the European battalions
it is, of course, superfluous to speak,
but all the native battalions appear
from every account of the action to
have been entitled to equal praise on
this memorable occasion, and it is diffi-
cult to say whether they were most
distinguished when suffering with a
patient courage under a heavy cannon-
ade, when receiving and repulsing the
shock of the flower of Haidar’s cavalry,
or when attacking in their turn the
troops of that monarch, who, baflled in -
all his efforts, retreated from this field
of anticipated conquest with the loss
of his most celebrated commander, and
thousands of his bravest soldiers."
151 m. Chidambaram sta.,* D.B. J;
m. from sta. Pop. 20,000.
The Pagoda-9 at Chidambaram are
the oldest in the S. of India, and
portions of them are ems of art.
Here is placed by some t e N. frontier
of the ancient Chola. Kingdom, the
successive capitals of which were Uriyur
on the Cauvery, Kumbhakonarn, and
Tanjore. The principal temple is
sacred to Shiva, and is affirmed to have
been erected, or at least embellished by
Hiranya Varna Chakravarti, “the
golden-coloured Emperor," who is said
to have been a leper, and to have origin-
ally borne the name of Swethavarmah,
“the white-coloured,” on account of
his leprosy, and to have come S. on a
pilgrimage. He recovered at Chidam-
baram miraculously, after taking a
bath in the tank in the centre of the
temple, and thereupon rebuilt or en-
larged the temples. He is said to
have brought 3000 Brahmans from the
N. It is stated in one of the Mackenzie
MSS.thatViraCholaRajah(927-77A.D.)
saw the Sabhapati, tie. Shiva, dance on
the sea-shore with his wife, Parbati, and ,
erected the Kanak Sabha, or golden
shrine in memory of the god, who is
here called Natcsean, or Natcshwar,
“god of dancing.” The whole area is
surrounded by two high walls, which
contain 32 acres.
The outer wall of all is 1800 ft. long


ROUTE 31.
391
TRICHINOPOLY
the Library, in which is a remarkable
collection of 18,000 Sanscrit MSS., of
which 8000 are written on palm leaves.
This library is unique, and in India, at
least, nothing at all equal to it is to be
found as regards Sanserit : it dates from
the end of the 16th or beginning of the
17th century. After this the visitor
may go to the Maralha Darbar, which
is in another quadrangle. Here is a
large picture of Shivaji, the last Rajah,
with his chief secretary on his right,
and his Diwan on his left. Remark
also a fine bust of Nelson, presented to
the Rajah by the Hon. Anne Seymour
Damer, whose work it is.
Schwartz’s Church is in the Little
Fort, close to the Shivaganga Tank.
Over the gate is the date 1777, and
over the facade of its church is 1779
A. D. In the centre, opposite the com-
munion-table, is a very fine group of
figures in white marble, by Flaxman,
. representing the death of Schwartz.
The a ed missionary is extended on
his be , and on his left stands the Rajah
Sharij i, his pupil, with two attendants,
while on his right is the missionary
Kohlner, and near the bottom of the
bed are four boys. The inscription
contains a summary of his career. The
small house N.W. of the church, and
close to it, is said to havebeen Schwartz’s
habitation.
Next to the Shivaganga Tank is the
People’s Park. In the English Church
there is a handsome tablet to Schwartz,
and in the cemetery adjoining Lord
Hastings was buried.
Tanjore district was the scene of the
earliest labours of Protestant mission-
aries in India. In 1706 the German
missionaries Ziegenbalg and Pliitsehau
established a Lutheran mission in the
Danish settlement of Tran uebar, under
the patronage of King Fre erick IV. of
Denmark ; and in 1841 their establish-
ments were taken over by the Leipzig
Evangelical Lutheran Mission, which
subsequentl extended its operations
into the 'strict. The mission at
Tanjore was founded in 1778 by the
Rev. C. F. Schwartz of the Tran uebar
Mission, who some time previous y had
transferred his services to the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge.

The mission establishments at Tanjore
were taken over in 1826 by the Society
for the Propagation of the Gospel,
which subsequently founded new sta-
tions in several arts of the district.
Roman Catholic missions in Tanjore
date from the first half of the 17th
century. 'Their churches and chapels
are scattered over the whole district,
but their principal seats are Negapatam,
Velanganni (on the coast, 6 111. south
of Ne apatam), Tanjore, Vallam, and
Kumb akonam. The St. Joseph’s
College, which was founded in 1846
by the French Jesuits at Negapatam,
was removed to Triehinopoly in 1883.
Tanjore is famous for its artistic
manufactures, including silk carpets,
jewellery, répoussé work, copper ware,
and curious models in pith and other
materials.
248 m. Trichinopoly junc. (R.)*
(branch W. to Erode, Rte. 30), D.B.
Pop. in 1881, 84,000 ; in 1891, 91,000.
St. J ohn’s Church is close by. The two
historic masses of granite, the Golden
Rock and the Fakir’s Rock, are in the
plain to the S. Close to the former is
the Central Jail. Near it the French
were defeated in two engagements.
251 in. Trichinopoly Fort sta. on
the Erode Branch, which runs 87 m.
to the N.W., and joins the Madras
Railway at Erode. The Fort has been
dismantled, but this part of the town
is still known as “the Fort."
In November 1753 the French made
anightattack on the Fort, and succeeded
in entering the outer line of fortifica-
tions at Dalton/s Battery at the N.W.
angle. Here there was a pit 30 ft. deep,
into which many of the assailants fell.
Their screams alarmed the garrison, who
repelled them, and made 360 of the
French prisoners. This portion of the
Old Fort is all that has been lefti
standing. The moat that surrounded
it has been filled in and planted as a
boulevard. ‘
On the N. side of the town, with a '
temple on it, is the Rock. The
entrance to the covered passage which
leads up to the top is on the S.
side, and on the sides of the passage


392 scorn 31.
India
MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
are stone elephants and pillars about
18 ft. high, which bear the stamp
of Jain architecture. The pillars have
carved capitals representing the lion
of the S., and various figures of men
and women. The frieze above is orna-
mented with carvings of animals.
Flights of very steep steps, 290 in
number, coloured white with red
stripes, lead through this passage
to the vestibule of a Shivite temple,
whence on certain days the images of
the gods—viz. of Shiva, Parbati,
Ganesh, and Subrahmanya, or Skanda
-——are carried in procession. There is a
huge Nandi Bull covered with silver
plates, which must be very valuable.
The steps of the ascent were the scene
of a frightful disaster in 1849. A vast
orowdhad assembled to worship Ganesh,
who is here called Pilliar, or “the son.”
A panic arose, and in the crush which
ensued 500 people were killed. Other
staircases in the E. portion of the Rock
lead to a mandapam, or pavilion,
whence, as well as from the rocky
latform itself, there is one of the
nest panoramic views to be seen in
the plains of India. On all sides
the eye traverses the plain for 20 or
30 m. The height of the Rock is
only 236 ft., but the plain is so flat
that this height is sufficient to domin-
ate a vast expanse of country. On
the S. the most conspicuous object is
the Golden Rock, about 100 ft. high.
At the foot of it, to the W., is the
Central Jail. \Vithin the town, distant
only a few hundred yards, is the
Nawab’s Palace, which has been restored
by Government and is used for courts
and public offices. Carrying the eye to
the S.E. of this rock, a patch of low
hills is seen, the highest not being above
40 ft. This is French Rocks, about 2 m.
from the Fort. To the N. of the Fort
Rock is the broad shallow bed of the
Cauvery, in which, except in the rains,
there is but a narrow streak of water.
Beyond is the Island of Scringham,
which the French occupied for several
years, taking up their quarters in the
two great temples, that of Sm-ingham
to the W., and that of Jambukeshwar
to the E. The island is 17 m. long by
about 11 m. broad, and Seringham

temple is 5 m. from the W. extremity,
but owing to dense groves the temples
are not distinctly seen. Beyond to the
N. in the far distance rises a long line
of hills. To the N.W. is the Tale
Malai range, the greatest height of
which is 1800 ft. ; while due N. of the
Fort Rock are the Kale Malai Hills,
which attain 4000 ft. ; and E. of these
are the Pache Malais, which in some
parts rise to 2300 ft. Turning to the
W. the old town of Warim' is seen,
where there was once a cantonment.
At the foot of the Fort Rock is a hand-
some Tcppa Kulam tank with stone
steps and a mandapam, or temple, in
the centre. At the S. E. corner of this
tank are a square corner-house, and
adjoining a house with a porch. In
one of these Clive lived, but it is not
certain in which.
The Jail. —Trichinopoly Central Jail
is one of the largest in the Madras
Presidenc . It stands well on rising
ground a out 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly called
the Golden Rock about 400 yds.
from its N.E. corner. An order from
the superintendent is required to visit
the jail.
Other objects of interest are the Bath
at the Judge's Court in which Bishq;
Heber died—the spot is marked by a
tablet erected by the Government of
Madras—and Chanda Sahib’s Tomb, at
the shrine of Natur Aulia. This latter
appears to be built from materials of
Hindu temples, and may date from
the invasion of Malik Kafur in 1310.
There are an S.P.G. College and a
Jesuit College here.
The most important local Industries
are weaving, and tobacco and cigar
making. The cigars are well known,
though the so-called Trichinopoly
cheroots come for the most part from
Dindigal. The silver and gold manu-
factures are famous ; the local gold and
silver smiths being very successful in
their filigree-work.
About 2 m. N. from the Rock, on an
island formed by a bifurcation of the
river Cauvery, is the town of Sewing-
ham (20,000 inhab.) A bridge of
32 arches joins the mainland to the
island.


ROUTE 31.
TRICHINOPOLY 393
The Great Temple of Sri Rangam
is about 1 m. N.W. of the bridge.
The entrance from Trichinopoly is on
the S. side of the temple, by a grand
gateway, which appears to have been
built as the base of a great gopura.
This gateway is 48 ft. high from the
ground to its terraced roof. The sides
of the passage are lined with pilasters,
and ornamented. The passage is about
100 ft. long, and the inner height, ex-
clusive of the roof, is 43 ft. Vast mono-
liths have been used as uprights in the
construction, some of them over 40 ft.
high. The stones on the roof laid hori-
zontally are also vast. The stone on the
inside of the arch is 29 ft. 7 in. long,
4 ft. 5 in. broad, and about 8 ft. thick.
There are two pilasters in the gateway,
with an inscription in Tamil characters.
From the terrace at the top of the gate-
way is seen the vast outer wall which
encloses the gardens as well as the build-
ings of this the largest temple in India.
This outer enclosure, 2475 ft. x 2880 ft.,
contains a bazaar. Within this is a
second wall 20 ft. high enclosing the
dwellings of the Brahmans in the service
of the temple. The general desi n is
marred by the fact that the buil ings
diminish in size and importance from
the exterior to the innermost enclosure ;
and Fergusson says, “If its principle
of design could be reversed, it would be
one of the finest temples in the S. of
India.” There are two great gopuras
on the E. side, two smaller on the W.,
and three of a medium height on the S.
Advancing from the Trichinopoly side,
the traveller passes under a small
mandapam, and then through a gopura
about 60 ft. high. The ceilings of the
gopuras are all painted, and the ceiling
of this one represents the Varahah, or
Boar Incarnation, of Vishnu, as well
as other Avataras with multitudes of
human beings adoring them. The
colours are well preserved. After this a
second mandapam is passed under and
a second and third gopura. Hard by
is another enclosing wall, which sur-
rounds the more sacred part, or real
temple, beyond which is the Vimanah,
or adytum, which none but Hindus
are allowed to enter.
At a third mandapam the jewels of
the temple may be examined. Observe
three ornaments called Venkalatha
Padukam, of which two are of diamonds
and emeralds, and the third of diamonds
and lubies. One of these is valued
at 35,000 rs. There are also several
coverings for the hands and feet of
idols of gold studded with jewels, as
well as large rings for the toes. Ob-
serve too chains of gold of local manu-
facture, which are as flexible as string,
and a golden bowl said to be worth
11,500 rs. There are also chains of
gold, 5-franc pieces, and others of gold
5—1'upee pieces.
In the court round the central en-
closure is the so-called Hall of 1000
Pillars. (Fergusson counted 960, but
the number is now much reduced.)
They are granite monoliths 18 ft. high,
with pedilnents, slightly carved to the
height of 3 ft., and they all have the
plantain bracket at top. The pillars
of the front row looking N. represent
men on rearing horses spearing tigers,
the horses' feet supported by the shields
of men on foot beside them. After this
the great gopura which is on the N. may
be visited. The total height is 152 ft.
In the floor of the passage under this
gopura is a stone with a Kanarese in-
scription. With the exception of the
pillars with supporters carved in the
shape of horsemen, there is nothing
that can be called interesting. The
gopuras are clumsily built, and, not-
withstanding their enormous bulk,
shake with the steps of a few men. Mr.
Fergusson is of opinion that the build-
ing was commenced about 1700 A.D.1
A Mela (religious fair) is held here
every winter.
Temple of J ambukeshwar. —In the
S. of India temples are often found in
pairs. If there is one dedicated to
Vishnu, there will be one dedicated to
Shiva. So here, at about 11 m. from
the Great Temple of Seringham, is a
smaller one sacred to Jambukeshwar,
or Shiva, from jamlmlca, “rose-apple,"
and ishwa'r “lord,” or Lord of India,
Jambu being a division of the world,
“ India,” and Ishwar, “deity.” '
The J ambukeshwar temple has three
1 See his Ind. Architq where there is an
illustration and description of the temples.


394 ROUTE 31.
India
MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
courts, is very much smaller than that
of Seringham, and has now a neglected,
deserte look. The plan, however, of
the building is more artistic, and the
main corridor and proportions are fine.
On the right of the entrance is an
upright stone 4 ft. high, with a long
Tamil inscription. The first gopura is
also the gatewa of entrance. The
ceiling is painte with flowers of the
lotus. Within the inner court is a
remarkable Tcppa Kulmn, or tank, of
spring water with a avilion in the
centre. Round the ., the E., and
the N. sides runs a corridor of two
stories supported by pillars. Beyond
this is a second gopnra, and a third
which forms part of the wall enclosing
the adytum. Thence a fine corridor
leads to the vimanah. On the whole,
this is a very fine Temple, and well
worth a visit. It is, no doubt, older
than that of Seringham, probably about
1600.
The Anlkuts, or dams. —The Cauvery,
about 9 m. to the W. of Trichinopoly,
and a little to the W. of the W.
extremity of Seringham island, separ-
ates into two branches which enclose
the island, the N. branch being called
the Coleroon or Kolz'd'zm, and the S.
the Cauvery. It had long been observed
that the N. channel was deepening and
the S. becoming more and more shallow,
and lest the Tanj ore Collectorate should
thus be deprived of water sufficient for
~ irrigation, a dam was constructed across
the Coleroon in 1836. In June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Cauvery to
swell, and in July and Au st it be-
comes a mighty river, and windles to
a small stream in September and Oe-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After partin with
the Coleroon, it sends off a num er of
branches which irri te Tanjore, the
chief one being calle the Vennar, and
then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of the
s ot where the Coleroon disembo es.
he Upper Anikut construete by
Colonel Cotton has been completely
successful in preventing an excess of
water entering the Coleroon. It con-
sists of three parts, being broken by two
islands. It Is a brick wall 7 ft. high
and 6 ft. thick, capped with stone, and

is based on two rows of wells sunk 9
ft. below the river’s bed. It is de-
fended by an apron of cut stone from
21 to 40 ft. broad. There are twenty-
fonr sluiees, which help to scour the
bed. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E.
of Triehinopoly is the Grand Anikut,
an ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anikut, built in 1836. It
supplies the Viranam tank in S. Arcot,
and waters the taluks of Chidambaram
and Manargudi in that Collectorate.
3 m. S.\V. of Trichinopoly is the
fortified pagoda which was occupied by
the French in 1753, and recaptured by
the British under Major Lawrence.
The place is highly interesting, and
much remains to be discovered about
its history.
306 'm. Dindigal sta. (R.), a muni-
cipal town (14,000 inhab.) in the large
Collectorate of Madura and the head-
quarters of a Sub-Collector. It also has
a considerable tobacco manufacture.
The climate is cooler and more healthy
than that of Madura. The great
rock on which the fort is built forms
a conspicuous object from the rail-
way, and is worth a visit. It rises
from the midst of a low-lying plain,
richly cultivated with various crops,
and stands quite isolated. The summit
is 1223 ft. above sea-level, 280 ft. above
the plain. Its lofty precipitous and
inaccessible sides were strongly fortified
under the first Nayakkan kings, if not
before ; and for a long time it was the
key of the province of Madura on the
W. Dindigal was taken by the British
from Tipu in 1781, and restored to him
in 1784, but finally ceded to the British
in 1792.
319 m. Ammayanayakanur sta.,
from this point may be made an
[Excursion to the PaZney or Palm“
Hills—This journey requires special
arrangements. The distance to Kodai-
kanal is 65 m. by road. This station
enjoys a growing popularity. It is 7209
ft. above sea-level. The climate is
milder and more even than that of
Ootacamund. The pop. is 1000. The


396 ROUTE 31.
India
MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
on the W. side. The entrance is by
the gate of Minakshi’s Temple, through
a painted corridor about 30 ft. long,
which is called the Hall of the Eight
Lakshmis, from eight statues of that
goddess which form the supports of
the roof on either side, where various
dealers ply their trade. On the light
of the gateway is an image of Subrah-
manya, one of Shiva's sons, otherwise
called Skanda or Karttikeya, the Hindu
Mars. On the left is an image of
Ganesh. The gateway leads to a stone
corridor with rows of pillars on either
side. The corridor before passing the
gateway is called the Ashta Lakshmi
Mandapam, and this second corridor
the Minakshi Nayakka melapam,
having been built by Minakshi Nayak,
Diwan of a rulerwho preceded Tirumala.
Some of the pillars of the temple have
for capitals the curved plantain-flower
bracket so general at Vijayanagar.
This is said by some to be the Hindu
cornucopia. At the end of one of the
corridors, 166 ft. long, is a large door
of brass, which has stands to hold
many lamps that are lighted at night.
A dark corridor under a small gopura
ends in one broader, with more light,
which has three figlu‘es on either side
carved with spirit.
Close by is a quadrangle with a Teppa
Kulam. This tank is called Swamra-
pushpa-kam‘ni or Patramarai, “Tank
of the Golden Lilies." Observe here a
little chamber built by Queen Man-
gammal, who was seized and starved to
death by her subjects about 1706 A.D.,
food being placed so near that she could
see and smell but not touch it. A
statue of her lover, the Brahman
Achchaya, may be seen on the W. side
of the tank, and on the ceiling there is
his portrait opposite to one of the Queen.
Round the tank runs an arcade. On
the N. and E. sides the walls of this
corridor are painted with the repre-
sentations of the most famous pagodas
in India: from the S. side a very good
view is obtained of the different towers
of the gopuras. On the N.W. side is
the belfry, with an American bell of
fine tone. The corridor is adorned with
twelve very spirited figures, which form
pillars on either side, six of them being

the Yali, a name given to a strange
monster which is the conventional lion
of the S. Sometimes he is represented
with a long snout or proboscis. These
are so arranged that between every two
of them is a figure of one of the five
Pandu brothers. First on the right is
Yudhishthir, and opposite to him on
the left is Arjuna with his famous bow.
Then come Sahadeva on the right, and
Nakula on the left. Then follows
Bhima on the right with his club, and
opposite to him, on the left, is the
shrine of the goddess, and the figure of
a Dwarpal. The visitor next passes N.
from the Minakshi Temple into that of
Sundareshwar, by the Sangeli Manda-
pam. Eight steps are ascended into
the Aruvattz' Mumr, the Temple qf the
Rish'is, a small chamber on the S. side
of Snndareshwar's Temple, in which are
a very large number of statues of Hindu
saints and gods, too numerous to specif .
S.E. of the groups of statues are t e
chambers where the Vahanas, or vehi-
cles, of Minakshi and Sundareshwar
are kept. They are plated with gold.
There are two golden palkis, or litters,
worth 10,000 rs. each, and two with
rods to support canopies, worth 1 2,000 rs.
each. There are also vehicles plated
with silver, such as a Hausa, or “goose,”
a Nandi, or “ bull.” Those who desire
to see the jewels kept here must give
notice a day or two previously.
The visitor will now pass on the N.
side—the most interesting feature of
the temple—the Sahasrastambha Illun-
dapam, or Hall of 1000 Pillars. There
are in fact 997, but many are hid from
view, as the intervals between them
have been bricked up to form granaries
for the pagoda. “There is a small shrine
dedicated to the goddess Minakshi (the
fish-eyed), the tutelary deity of the
place, which oeeu ies the space of 15
columns, so the res. number is only 985;
but it is not their number but their
marvellous elaboration that makes it
the wonder of the place, and makes it
in some respects more remarkable than
the choultrie (see below) about which
so much has been said and written "
(Fergusson). This hall, whose sculp-
tures surpass those of an other hall of
its class, was built by rianayakkam


ROUTE 32.
MAHABALIPL'R 399
is between 2 and 3 m. S. of Maha-
balipur. On the left bank of the
canal, to the E. of it, and between
it and the sea, are the excavations
and carvings in the rock which have
rendered the place so famous. Hunter
says: “The antiquities of the place
may be divided into three groups (1)
the five ralhs to the S. of the village ;
(2) the cave-temples, monolithic figures,
carvings, and sculptures \V. of the
village; (3) the more modern temples
of Vishnu and Shiva, the latter washed
by the sea. " To these two temples and
five others buried (according to tradi-
tion) under the sea, the place owes its
English name. '
The boat should stop op \osite Bali-
pithmn, a small village, raving the
village of Saluvan Kuppan, or “ toddy-
gatherers'l village," about 11 m. to
the N., where is the curious Ti er
Cave, and the large village of Me. a-
balipur to the S. and E. The dis-
tance between the canal and the
sea is 1:} m., and from 1 m. S. of
Saluvan Kuppan to 4 m. S. of it there
are a great number of curious excava-
tions and carvings. After landin
opposite Balipitham, follow the re
straight for about =3 m., when you
come to a hamlet, called Pillaiyan
Kovil, where is a group of monkeys,
admirably carved, t is size of the large
baboon. The male is sitting behind
the female, and is bus removing
vermin from her hair. S e sits with
her back to him, and is suckling a
young one. At 200 yds. farther on a
choultrie is passed—a rest-house for
natives. It is on the left going to-
wards the sea, as are also eight stone
figures, at about 30 yds. from it. The
centre figure represents the goddess
Durga, with her right leg on her left
knee, and four female attendants on
her left hand, and three on her right
hand. 10 yds. in front of this group
is a highly polished black pillar, 4 ft.
6 in. high, a Lin m with the curious
curved mark, an§a5 yds. in front of it
is a Nandi, 0r Shiva’s bull, fallen on its
side. After this you enter deep sand,
1 “Toddy” is the fermented sap of the
and pass a good many huts on the
right, and a fishing-village on the
left; and so, after a walk of in all
about 1}; m., the shore temple is
reached. It is on the edge of the sea,
and is dedicated, first, to Maha Bali
Chakravartti, and, secondly, to Shiva.
It stands in an enclosure, which was
at one time surrounded by a granite
wall, but now only débris remain and
two uprights where the gate was. The
orch or outer room on the N. side
as a large slab in the centre of the
wall opposite the door, with Shiva and
Parbati in alto-relieve upon it. In the
centre of the E. wall is a figure with
eight arms, which the guides say is an
attendant on Bali. In the inner part
is a fallen Lingam. On the slab
facing the door Shiva and Parbati are
represented in alto-relievo. This cham-
ber is 17 ft. high, and 9 ft. sq. The
E. portal of the temple is on the brink
of the surf, and about 10 ft. above the
sea, and right in front, on a rock 75 ft.
distant, is the thaja slambha, “ flag-
pillar,”orDi10a slambha, “lamp pillar,”
of granite, and now only 18 ft. high,
but which, before it was broken, was
probably 35 ft. high. It is difficult
to reach this pillar, even in calm
weather. In a vestibule at the W.
side of the temple is a recumbent
figure of Vishnu, 10 ft. 10 in. long.
T e guides say it is Bali. They also
affirm that 5 m. to the E., in the sea,
are ruined temples.l The fact is, there

cocoa-nut and other palm trees, used as a
substitute for yeast.
1 Mr. Fergusson, in his Picturesque Illus-
trations of Ancient Architecture in Hindustan,
p. 57, notes from Southey’s “ Curse of
Kehama’ the lines: '
" The sepnlchres
0f ancient kings, which Bali in his power
Made in primeval times, and built above
them
A city like the cities of the ads—
Being like a god himself. or many an age
Hath Ocean warned against his palaces,
Till overwhelmed beneath the waves—
Not overthrown—so well the awful chief
Had laid their deep foundations.
Their golden summits in the noonday light
Shone o'er the dark green deep that rolled
between ;
Her domes and innacles and spires were seen
Peering above t e sea, a mournnt sight.
And on the sandy shore, beside the verge
Of Ocean, here and there a rock-cut fane


400 ROUTE 32.
India
MADRAS TO THE SEVEN PAGODAS
are heavy breakers about 1 m. or so
out, where there is a reef of rocks.
At about 300 yds. N. of the temple is
a fishing-vill e called Karmiguriam-
man Kovil, w ere are the ruins of a
brick building, said to have been a
French church. S. of the temple, at
the distance of 200 ds., is a mined
anite building, calle Chetti’sTem le.
Tleaving the shore temple, the trave ler
will find 600 yds. due W. a lain
mandapam of Vishnu. 12 yds. . of
it is a fine tank, with steps down
to the water all round. There is a
small mandapam in the centre of the
tank, called Nimlji Mandapam (water
pavilion). Near the tank are many
trees, and quite a village of Brahman
houses. Passing these you come to the
great sculptured rock called Arjuna’s
Penance, and as the morning sun
will now be getting very hot, it will
be well to turn to the N.W., where a
sheltered monolithic temple will be
found, open to the front, called Vam-
haszumni Illandripam, or “My Lord
Boar’s Temple,” from the representa-
tion of Vishnu in the boar incarnation
with the head of a boar. Here it will
be well to breakfast, sheltered from the
sun, and rest till towards evening.
There are retiring-places among the
rocks where one can bathe without
being seen, but it will be well to take
a few pa'rdahs, or tent-screens, for
greater privacy and comfort. The
absence of insects, especially flies, is
very remarkable here in the cold
weather. The Varahaswami Manda-
pam is 2 m. S. of Balipitham, where
the traveller leaves the canal. The
facadeof the mandapam is supported
by two pillars and two dpilasters, the
bases of which are carve to represent
the Simha, or Southern Lion, a mythi-
cal animal, not at all like a real lion.
They are sedent, and their tails are
Resisted, in its strength, the surf and surge
That on their deep foundations beat in vain.’
The same‘authority makes this temple about
30ft. sq. m the base, and about twice that in
h_eight,_and adds : “Notwithstanding its small
dimensions it is, with the single exception of
the temple at Taniore, the finest and most im-
portant vimannh have seen, or know of, in
th S. of India."

twisted in a peculiar manner, like the
loop of &. In the centre of the wall,
0 posite to the facade, is a small alcove,
w ich is the sanctum, but there is no
idol in it. On either side is a dwa
in alto-relieve. In the side wall to the
N. is a representation of the Varaha
incarnation, fairly well done, but un-
finished. The central figure is Vishnu
with a huge boar’s head. He has his
right leg bent up, and resting on a
fi re issuing apparently from waves.
Tile Shesh Na , or six-headed serpent,
overcano ies t e figure, which has the
face of a andsome youth, whose hands
are joined in prayer. In front of him
are two male figures, the nearest of
which is praying with joined hands to
Vishnu. Vishnu su )ports on his right
thigh his wife Lak shmi. Her feet
are broken off. Near him is a wor-
shipping figure in the sky, and two
tall figures, one of whom holds a water-
pot for ablutions. The time is sup-
posed to be that when Vishnu slew
the giant Hiranyakah, “golden eye,"
who had carried off the earth into the
infinite abyss. Vishnu, with the head
of a boar, pursued and slew him, and
brought back the earth. On the oppos-
ite side wall, to the S., is a very spirited
representation of the anaimhAva/tam,
or dwarf incarnation, in alto-relievo.
Vishnu, dilated to an immense size,
places one foot on the earth, and lifts
another to the sky. The god has eight
arms, with which he holds a sword, a
quoit, a shield, a bow, and a lotus,
and with a sixth he points. The other
two are indistinct. Worship rs or
attendants are at his feet, an other
figures appear in the skies. One to the
W. has the head of a dog. The legend
is that when Bali was tyrannising over
the earth, Vishnu approached him in
the shape of a dwarf, and asked for so
much earth as he could plant his feet
upon. Bali granted this modest re-
quest, whereupon Vishnu dilated to
immense pro rtions and planted one
foot on cart , one on the sky, and
with a third thrust Bali down to
hell. The capitals of the pillars in
the facade are very ele nt. In the
wall in which is the acove are two
compartments ; in the one to the


402 ROUTE 32.
India
MADRAS TO THE SEVEN PAGODAS
your left is a relief representing Vishnu
recumbent. The platform of the upper
temple is 56 ft. above that of Durga's,
and very difficult of access, but the
guides spring up the slippery rock with
wonderful agility. A most complete
and valuable account of these excava-
tions will be found in the work entitled
Descriptive and Historical Papers m-
lati'hg to the Seven Pagodas on the
Coromamdel Coast, by W. Chambers,
J. Goldingham, B. G. Babington,
F.A.S., the Rev. G. W. Mahon, Lieut.
J. Braddock, the Rev. W. Taylor, Sir
Walter Elliot, and C. Gubbins, edited
by Capt. M. W. Carr; printed for the
Government of Madras, at the Foster
Press, 23 Rundall's Road, Vepery, 1869.
The age of these sculptures has never
been definitely ascertained. No date
has been found in any of the inscrip-
tions. Mr. Fergusson, Hist. of Arch.
vol. ii. p. 502, says the Bethe were
“carved by the Hindus, probably
about 1300 A.D.” Sir W. Eliot fixes

the era of the oldest Tamil inscription
on the rocks of Mahabalipur at the
latter part of the 11th century, and
that of the rock inscription at Saluvan
Kuppan at the beginning of the 12th
century. The Sanscrit inscriptions are
of earlier date. Sir W. Elliot thinks
that they could not have been later
than the 6th century. Mr. Fergusson
says: “Although these Baths are
comparatively modern and belong to a
different faith, they certainly constitute
the best representations now known of
the forms of the Buddhist buildings."
A copy and translation of the Sanscrit
inscriptions by Dr. Arthur Burnell
will be found in the Appendix of the
work referred to above.
Sadras, an old Dutch settlement, is
3 m. farther to the S. by the canal, but
is hardl worth a visit.
On t is trip the traveller will ab-
solutely require a servant or other
person who knows the localities, or
much time will be wasted.


CEYLON .
The traveller who can choose his own
season for visiting Ceylon is warned
that March and April are the hottest
months in the year ; June and August
the wettest (on the W. coast); and
December and January the most dis-
agreeable (on the coast) on account of
the “ Long-shore wind. ”
The area of the Island is 25,000 sq.
m., and the pop. over 3,000,000, of
whom over 2,000,000 are Cingalese,
800,000 Tamils, and less than 6000
pure-bred Europeans.
The Currency of the Island is rupees,
divided, not into annas as in India, but
into cents. The nominal value of 1 r.
is 2s. The actual value fluctuates be-
tween 1s. 8d. and 1s. 3d.
Rupee. Annas, India. Cents, Ceylon.
1 = 16 = 100
Silver . i = 8_ = 50
Silver . i = 4 = 25
History.—The Portuguese landed on
the Island in 1505, and soon built a
factory at Colombo, which in 1518
they protected by a fort. They were
almost constantly at war with the
natives, and were several times foiled
in their endeavours to establish them-
selves at Kandy. The Dutch first
landed in Ceylon in 1602, at Bat-
ticaloa on the E. coast, and entered
into friendly relations with the native
government. In 1638 they com-
menced active operations against the
Portuguese, in alliance with the natives.
The war lasted to 1658, when the Dutch
remained masters of the situation. They
erected the fort at Colombo, which was
then a ver important work, but has
now been demolished, with the excep-
tion of some few batteries on the sea face.

The Dutch were ex elled by the Eng-
lish in 1796. The aritime Provinces
were attached to the Madras Presidency
for two years, after which Ceylon be-
came a Crown Colony.
Travelling in Ceylon is, for the
most part, comparatively easy. The
roads are everywhere excellent, and
the Rest-Houses are far more comfort-
able laces of abode than the corre-
spon ing institutions in India. In the
larger towns, such as Badulla, Ratna-
pura, Matara, and at many of the sta-
tions on the great north read they are,
in all but name, hotels ; but the traveller
is not allowed to remain in them more
than two days. On all the rincipal
roads they are usually provided with
bed and table-linen, baths, tea and
dinner-services, etc. This is not, how-
ever, the case at those on the less-fre-
quented roads, where the R.Hs. often
furnish little more than shelter. The
coaches are usually crowded, and those
who can afford to do so are strongly
recommended to hire a special coach,
which can usually be done at a reason-
able rate and with little difficulty.
“It is impossible to exaggerate the
natural beaut of Ceylon. Belted with
a double gir le of golden sands and
waving palm-groves, the interior is one
vast green garden of nature, deliciousl
disposed into plain and highlandl:
valley and peak, where almost every-
thing grows known to the tropical
world, under a sky glowing with an
equatorial sun, yet tempered by the
cool sea-winds. Colombo itself, out-
side the actual town, is a perfect laby-
rinth of shady bowers and flowery
streams and lakes. For miles and
miles you drive about under arbours


DRIVES—EXCURSIONS
405
just beyond which is the Town Hall
and Public Market-place. Here two
streets diver e—the one to the left,
Sea Street, w ere dwell the dealers in
rice and cotton, and where are two
Hindu temples, quaint and picturesque,
but of no great size or importance ; the
other, We fendahl Street, to the right,
conducts to W olfendahl Church, a
massive cruciform buildin on high
ground, built by the Dutc in 1749,
on the site of an old Portuguese church
called Aqua de Lupe, and commanding
a fine view of the city and harbour.
Here are monuments and hatchments
recording the decease of Dutch officials.
Thence the drive may be continued in
a N. E. direction to the RC. Cathedral of
St. IAwia, adjoining which is a college
for Roman Catholics, and a convent with
school and orphanage attached. Then
N. andalittle W. the Anglican Cathedral
and College of St. Thomas are reached.
They stand in a park, and were given
by Dr. Chapman, the first Bishop.
About 1 m. to the N. is St. James’s
Roman Catholic Church; and in driving
there a fine house called Uplands is
seen to the left, where is a tortoise,
said to be more than 200 years old,
and very huge. The drive through
the suburb of Mutwal is extremely
picturesque. It is chiefly inhabited
y fishers, who are mostly Roman
Catholics, as the numerous large and
imposing R.C. churches testify. On
reaching the river at the end of the
long street of Mutwal, turn to the right,
and crossing a tongue of land till the
river is again reached, follow its bank
to the picturesque Bridge of Boats, by
which the great road to Kandy crosses
it. This part of the drive shows to
perfection the way in which the tiny
houses and small churches are so
nestled under the shelter of the trees
as to be altogether invisible from above.
Turning to the right at the Bridge of
Boats, follow the dusty and ever-
crowded “St. Joseph ” or “Grand
Pass" Road till Skinner’s Road is
reached. Turn left along it under a
fine avenue of Madras thorn, till the
railway station at Maranda is reached,
and thence follow the side of the fresh-
water lake, across which good views

may be obtained, till Galle F ace is once
more reached.
(2) The second drive commences by
crossing the bridge from Galle Face,
almost immediately behind the hotel,
to Slave Island, and then driving along
the edge of a beautiful freshwater lake
past the retty residence of the General
comman ing the troops in Ceylon, to
the Victoria. Park. The traveller
should not omit to notice a picturesque
little Buddhist temple on the other
side of the lake nearly opposite the
General’s house. The Park occupies
the site of the old Cinnamon Gardens,
and is well laid out with ornamental
grounds, in the midst of which a
Museum was built in 1877. It is
exclusively devoted to the exhibition
of -Ceylon products, antiquities, and
natural history, and is on that account
all the more interesting to a visitor.
On the basement are some interesting
stone fragments, and particularly a
colossal lion, brought from Pollonarua,
on which the King sat to administer
justice. The entrance-hall is hand-
some, and to the right of it is a library,
to which the public have access from
6.30 to 10 A.M., and from 3 to 5 P.M.
In front of the Museum is a statue of
the Rt. Hon. Sir W. Gregory, Governor
from 1871 to 1877.
Before leaving Colombo, a visit may
be aid to one of the Coffee Mills.
An the traveller should on no account
omit to mount to the summit of the
Great Reservoir, from which Colombo is
supplied with water, on account of the
singularity of the view thence obtained.
A city of nearly 130,000 people lies at
the spectator’s feet, but, except for a few
towers and domes, it is invisible, the
whole being concealed by the mass of
vegetation which overshadows it.
Excursions—One of the pleasantest
in the neighbourhood of Colombo is
that to a Buddhist temple at the
village of Kelani, 2 m. up the river of
the same name. Pass through the
hot and dusty Pettah, or native town,
for about 4 m., as far as the river, which
is crossed by a picturesque Bridge
of Boats, after which the road passes


408
CEYLON
winds round one of those bills, and on
the E. side, which is almost precipitous,
looks down on the valley of Dumbera,
through which the Mahawelli Ganga
rolls over a channel of rocks, “ present-
ing a scene that in majestic beauty can
scarcely be surpassed. In a park at
the foot of this aeclivity is the pavilion
of the Governor, one of the most
agreeable edifices in India, not less
from the beauty of the architecture
than from its judicious adaptation to
the climate” (Tennent, vol. ii. p. 203).
Serpents are numerous here, especially
the cobra and carawilla. The large
black scorpion, as big as a crayfish, is
also found here.
The Dalada, or “sacred tooth,” was
brought to Ceylon a short time before
Fa Hian’s arrival in 311 A.D., in charge
of a princess of Kalinga, who concealed
it in the folds of her hair. It was
taken by the Malabars about 1315 A. D.,
and again carried to India, but was
recovered by Prakrama Bahu III. It
was then hidden, but in 1560 was
discovered by the Portuguese, taken to
Goa by Don Constantine de Braganza,
and burned by the archbishop in the
presence of the Viceroy and his court.
Wikrama Bahu manufactured another
tooth, which is a piece of discoloured
ivory 2 in. long and less than 1 in. in
diameter, resembling the tooth of a
crocodile rather than that of a man.
An interesting excursion may be
made to three Buddhist temples situ-
ated near each other at a little distance
from Kandy—Gadaladenya, Galan-
golla, and Lanka Telika,. Each is curi-
ous in a different way. One is a modern
tern le, very well kept up, and situ-
ate most romantically among huge
boulders of rock; the second is very
ancient, but in the last stage of neglect,
decay, and dilapidation ; the third,
Lanka Telika, is remarkable alike for its
situation on the top of a rock and for the
character of its architecture, which is
very unlike that of any other temple in
Ceylon. The best mode of performing
this expedition is to drive 5 in. out on
the road to Kadugannawa, and thence
send the carria e back to a point 9 m.
on the road to éampola, riding up from
one of these points to the other across

the bridle-path on which the temples
are situated.
There are many other pleasant drives
and rides to be taken in the neighbour-
hood of Kandy. The extensive planta-
tions of cacao on the banks of the
Mahawelli Ganga, a few miles below
Kandy, deserve a visit.
ROUTE 2
Coronno TO NUWARA ELIYA,
BADULLA, AND BATTICALOA
(Rail to Nuwara Eliya; coach to Badulla;
special carriage to Batticaloa—total dis-
tance 274 m.)
This route so far as Peradeniya junc-
tion is the same as Rte. 1. From that
point the stations are on a constantly
rising level to
108 m. Hatton sta., 4141 ft. above
the sea.
[From Hatton the ascent of Adam’s
Peak, the most celebrated though not
the highest mountain in Ceylon, is
most easily made. The traveller can
drive as far as St. Andrews (12 m.),
whence the ascent must be made on
foot. The ascent is steep, and to
those easily made giddy not altogether
safe, but many English ladies have
been to the summit, and it is annually
ascended by thousands of pilgrims of
both sexes and all ages. It is usual to
sleep in a but on the summit in order
to see the sunrise, and the wonderful
shadow cast by the peak, which often
produces a singular optical illusion.]
Hatton is also the point from which
the great tea districts of Dickoya and
Dimbula may be most conveniently
visited. These valle s, formerly cele-
brated for their pro notion of coffee,
are now entirely devoted to tea culti-
vation. About the year 1870 the


ROUTE 2.
409
COLOMBO TO BATTICALOA
coffee plantations were attacked by a
new fungus, Harmilia mslalriz, which
choked the breathing pores of the
leaves and gradually exhausted the
energies of the plant. It was at first
little regarded, but in ten years’ time
it had well-nigh destroyed the produc-
tion of coffee, and reduced the planting
community to a state of ruin. The
revenue of the island fell from over
17,000,000 rs. in 1877 to 12,161,570
in 1882, and large numbers of the
wealthiest proprietors lost their estates,
or remained on them merely as man-
agers for their creditors. With in-
domitable energy the planting com-
munity set itself to work to remedy
the disaster, and by the substitution
of tea for coffee, they may be said to
have thoroughly succeeded in doing so,
though of course not without great
individual loss and suffering. In 1875
but 282 lbs. of tea were exported from
Ceylon. The export of 1890 amounted
to 46, 901,554 lbs., while the revenue of
the colony has very nearly risen to the
same amount as in 1877.
The valley of Maekeliya, a more
newly-planted district, is separated b
a ridge from that of Dickoya, to which
it is parallel. The Dimbula valley is
traversed by a road from Nawalapitiya
to Nuwara Eliya, into which a branch
road from Hatton leads.
Beyond Hatton, the line falls again
slightly to
116 m. Talawakele sta., whence it
again rises steadily to
128 m. Nanuoya sta.,1 5291 ft. eleva-
tion, the present terminus of the line. A
farther portion is, however, under con-
struction to Haputale 26 m. towards the
Uva Province. On this prolongation
the summit-level will be 6219 ft. above
the sea. This line asses through the
chief tea-districts o the island between
Gampola and Nanuoya.
From Nanuoya to Nuwara Eliya is
4% in. by a good road with an ascent
of 1000 it. All sorts of conveyances can
be had.
1 Travellers are recommended to have
warm wraps with them, as the temperature
here is very much lower than that of the
plains, or even of Kandy.

The village of Nuwara Eliya.!k is
6210 ft. above the sea-level. The
summer residence of the Governor, the
Club, and Hotels are to the N. of the
lake. In the beautiful climate of this
station expeditions of all sorts may be
enjoyed. Some ordinary drives are here
mentioned :—
Round the Moon. Plains, 8 in. To
the top of Ramboda Pass and back, 6
in. Round the Lake 6 m. Pidaru
Talagala, the highest mountain in
Ceylon (8280 ft.), may be easily as-
cended from Nuwara Eliya. There is
a bridle-path to the top, whence the
view is extensive, but not specially
striking.
A longer exclusion is that to the
Horton Plains, 28 n1. from Nuwara
Eliya.
This excursion will take at least two
days, one to go and one to return, and
must be made on horseback. A bridle-
path through wild and beautiful scen-
ery terminates at a large R. H., in the
neighbourhood of which are tremend-
ous precipices which descend to the
great plain of the Kalu Ganga.
Burrows's Visitors’ Guide to Kandy
and Nuwara. Eliya. is an admirable
handbook containing ood descriptions.
Much of the ground about Nuwara
Eliya is open and moorlike, and is
thickly dotted with bushes of crimson
rhododendron. The eucalyptus and
the Australian wattle have been largely
planted about N uwara Eliya, and give
the landscape a peculiar character,
which has also a somewhat Italian air
imparted to it by the numerous keena.
trees (Galophyllum tomenlosmn) which
though not a conifer, has a great
general resemblance to a stone pine.
On leaving Nuwara Eliya the road
rises slightly after quitting the lake,
and then commences a continuous and
for the most part very steep descent of
several thousand feet. At 6 m. from
Nuwara Eliya. we reach the Botanic
Gardens at Hakgalla, a visit to which
ought on no account to be omitted by
any one making a stay, however short,
at Nuwara Eliya. The visitor is
equally repaid by the beaut of the
views from the Gardens, an by the
beauty of the Gardens themselves, i


410
CEYLON
which all the flowers and plants of
temperate climates flourish freely, com-
bined with much beautiful natural
vegetation. Behind the Gardens rises
the precipitous wall of bare rock which
forms the face of the Hakgalla moun-
tain, while in front the ground sinks
abruptly to valleys and low hills far
below, and backed in the distance by
the mountains of Uva. The road con-
tinues to descend very rapidly to
13 m. Wilson’s Bungalow, it! a good
R.H., at which through travellers
to Badulla and Colombo, who do not
stop at Nuwara Eliya, usually sleep.
Another sharp descent brings us to
Welimadu, a small but picturesque
village, from which point the road
begins again to ascend till at
26 m. Etampitiya, at: where there is a
comfortable R. H., we are again on
the same level as Wilson’s Bungalow.
The traveller cannot fail to be struck
by the extent of terrace-cultivation in
the valleys traversed, the steepest hill-
sides being fashioned into an endless
series of narrow terraces, carefully irri-
gated, on which abundant crops of
paddy are grown. From Etampitiya
the road again falls continuously, until,
after passing Dikwella, where it is
joined by the road from Ratnapura (see
Rte. 3), it reaches
37 m. Badulla (R.H.), the capital of
the Province of Uva, one of the oldest,
most cheerful, and most attractive towns
in Ceylon. It is situated on a slight
eminence, entirely surrounded by green
paddy-fields, and in the immediate
vicinity of a fine river, while on all
sides the background is formed by
mountains of very beautiful outline.
Beautiful avenues of Inga, saman
and other trees adorn the town, which,
besides the usual Government build-
ings—Cutcherry, Government A ent’s
residence, etc.—contains a ham some
Market and fine Hospital. There
is an exceedingly pretty race-course,
surrounding a small lake. Of the
ancient city few traces remain. Not a
vestige is to be seen of the palace of
the kings, and scarcely any indication
0t any uildiugs of considerable anti-

quity. There are, however, two large
and wealthy Buddhist temples, the
Maha Viham and the Aloha Dewale,
which, though the present edifices are
of no very great age, are picturesque
and worth a visit. They occupy ancient
sites, and the dagoba at the Maha
Vihara is undoubtedly of very early
origin. Badulla is in the centre of a
very flourishing group of tea-estates.
[A very interesting excursion may be
made hence to Alutnuwera, 25 m. N.,
on the Mahawelli Ganga, where there
is an ancient dagoba in the midst of
fine scenery.]
Leaving Badulla, the road, which
passes chiefly through fine tea-estates,
rises rapidly to
50 m. Passara (R. H. ), and still con-
tinuing to ascend, reaches at
65 m. Lunugala (R.H.), beautifully
situated. Here the road descends
again. Nothing can exceed the beauty
of the drive between this place and
78 m. Bibile (R.H.), a good starting-
point for excursions into the wild and
beautiful country to the E. and S.
We are now in the Veddah country,
and either here or at the next following
Rest-Houses,
88 m. Ekiriyankumbara, or
100 m. Pallegama, the traveller
is likely to meet with some of these
singular specimens of humanity. They
are a remnant of the Yakkos, the abor-
iginal inhabitants of Ceylon, and are
divided into two classes, the Rock and
the Village Veddahs. The Rock
Veddahs are absolute savages, who
remain concealed in the forests, and
are rarely seen by a Euro ean e e—
indeed few now exist. e Vi lagc
Veddahs, though often indulging their
migratory instincts, live in collections
of mud and bark huts, in the vicinity
of which they carry on some rude cul-
tivation. Their skill in handling the
bow and arrow, of which they still
habitually make use, is remarkable.
114 m. Maha Oya (RH)
120 m. Kum'buruwella (R.H.) About


ROUTE 5.
413
COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA
69 m. Pelmadulla (R.H.), whence a
road to the S. leads to Rackwane, the
chief village of a rising tea-district.
The views on this road are some of the
most beautiful in Ceylon.
The woods about Pelmadulla, at the
proper season, are bright with the
splendid blooms of the Dend'robiu'm
Illaccarthir'.
85 m. Balangoda (R. H.) Nothing
can exceed the beauty and variety of
the scenery along the whole road from
Ratnapura to this place. It is entirely
free from that monotony which some-
times rendcrs the most luxuriant tropi-
cal scenery oppressive and wearisome.
97 m. Belihuloya. There is a good
R.H here, romantically situated
on the edge of a rushing mountain
stream. From this spot an ascent can
be made to the Horton Plains (see Rte.
2). We now get into coffee and tea-
estates, whence the whole of the wood
has been cleared, and the bare hillsides
lack any trace of their original beauty.
But the crops are fine, and coffee has
not in this part of Ceylon been so
wholly exterminated as elsewhere by
leaf disease. Ever since leaving Pel-
madulla the road, though varied by
occasional descents, has been rising,
and by the time we have reached
105 m. Haldamulla (RH. ), we are at
a very considerable elevation, from which
a truly magnificent view is obtained over
all that part of the island lying between
Haldamulla and the sea to the S. With
few exceptions, the eye seems to range
over an unbroken extent of forest ; the
rivers, villages, and tracts of cultivation
being for the most part concealed by
the trees surrounding them.
[From Haldamulla the very fine
waterfall, over 400 feet in height, near
Lemastotta, may be visited]
A very steep ascent of about 8 m.
brings us to the top of the pass at
Haputale (R.H.), at an elevation of
between 4000 and 5000 ft. The view
hence is even grander than that from
Haldamulla, but from partaking of a
greater extent of the nature of a bird’s-
eye view it is less picturesque. The
road leading northwards now begins

again to descend, and soon reaches the
small village of
120 m. Bandarawella (R.H.), which
is said to enjoy the best and most
equable climate in Ceylon. It is cer-
tainly a. very delicious one, and no
doubt one day, when the railway is ex-
tended to this point, will be the site of
numerous villas and summer residences.
The road continues to descend for 14
miles to
134 m. Dikwella, from which point
the road to Badulla is the same as in
Rte. 2.
ROUTE 4
COLOMBO T0 RATNAPURA, m'a PANA-
DURA AND NAMBAPANE
(Rail and road.)
This is an alternative route to Ratna-
pura, which, though somewhat longer,
is performed in the same number of
hours as the previous route, owing to a
part of it being by railway. It passes
through very pretty country, and those
who go no farther than Ratnapura are
strongly recommended to go by one
and return by the other of these routes.
The traveller proceeds as far as Pana-
ol'um by the Southern Railway from
Colombo (see Rte. 5).
A few miles after quitting Panadura
he crosses the Bolgoda Lake by a bridge,
and at
10 m. reaches Horana. The R.H.
here is built among the remains of an
ancient Buddhist monastery, and on
the opposite side of the road is the large
and handsome Buddhist temple. It
contains a bronze candlestick worthy
of notice. It is about 8 ft. high and
of remarkably fine workmanship.
28 m. Nambapane (R.H.) prettily
situated. The road here approaches


414
CEYLON
the Kalu Ganga river, along the bank
of which it passes as far as -
32 m. Kiri Ela, where the Kurn-
witti river is crossed. The road now
keeps at a greater distance from the
river, though it follows its general course
till it reaches
42 m. Ratnapura (see Rte. 3). Shortly
before arriving at Ratnapura the Maha
Saman Dewale is passed (see Rte. 3).
The whole road is extremely beautiful
and cannot fail, if the day is fine, to give
pleasure to those passing along it. Fine
views of Adam’s Peak and the other
principal points of the Central Moun-
tains are to be obtained on this route.
ROUTE 5
COLOMBO TO GALLE, MATARA, HAM-
BANTOTTA, AND TISSAMAHARAMA
(Rail to Bentotta; coach to Matara ; thence
special conveyance. Beyond Kirinde ride.)
The journey is worth making, at all
events so far as Galle or Matara, for the
sake of the coast scenery. Half of the
distance can be performed by rail. The
first six stations—namel , the Pettah,
the Fort, Slave Island (t c drive from
Galle Face Hotel to this station is
about i m. ), Kollapitiya, Bambala-
pitya, and Wellawatta, are all in the
suburbs of Colombo.
At 7 m. Mount Lavinia sta. * is the
Grand Hotel, which was built by Sir
E. Barnes, when Governor, as his
Marine Villa. It stands on a‘roeky
eminence close to the station. It is a
very favourite place to stay at, and has
first-rate accommodation.
17% in. Moratuwa sta. is a very
flourishing place. There is a good
church here, built by M. de Soysa.
_ 21 m. Panadurazk (R.H.), a flourish-
my: village prettily situated on a narrow

inlet of the sea. There is a handsome
church in a style of pointed architecture
well suited to the climate (see Rte. 4).
26 m. Kalutarazk (R. H.) is ap~
preached by a fine iron bridge over the
Kalu Ganga. It is over 1200 ft. long,
being composed of twelve spans of 100
ft. each. Kalutara is a large place,
with a great air of cheerfulness and
comfort. The R.H. is an excellent one
and a good starting-point for the excur-
sions which may be made over excellent
roads into the very pretty country to
the east of the town. There is an in-
teresting Buddhist temple on the north
side of the river.
41 m. Bentotta sta. it: (R.H.) is for the
present the railway terminus, and from
thence the journey to Galle has to be
made by road. The drive is charming,
always near and generally within sight
of the sea, and passing under an unin-
terrupted grove of cocoa-nut and other
trees. The district is extremely popu-
lous, and the traveller is rarely, if ever,
out of sight of a house or two, while
villages of greater or less size are Of
constant occurrence.
54 m. Ambalangodazk is a large and
rapidly increasing village. The R.H.
here is close to the sea, and has a good
bathing-place among the rocks below it.
61 m. Hikkaduwa (R.H.) There is
a fine Buddhist temple here in a some-
what unusual position, approached by
a long, narrow, and steep flight of
stone stairs.
74 m. GALLEIQK was the principal
port of call for vessels between Aden and
the far East, before the com letion of the
breakwater at Colombo. he harbour
at Galle is very small, and not very safe
in rough weather. The entrance is so
narrow as to be hardly visible until
very near. The lighthouse is about
60 ft. high. To the E. there is a hill
2170 ft. high called the Haycock, and
in the distance to the E.N.E. Adam’s
Peak, 7000 ft. high, is often seen. The
landing-place at Galle is on the N. side
of the harbour. The deep water comes
close into the shore. Close by in Church
Street is the Oriental Bank. All Saints'
Church is about 1} m. from the landing


416
CELYON
place of an Assistant Agency, a large
town on a small bad harbour. Here are
the headquarters of the district, a large
gaOl, the Assistant Agent’s and District
Judge’s residences, the Cutcherry,
Court-house, etc. Here too is one of the
two chief salt manufactories in Ceylon.
A great part of the population are
Malays. In the immediate vicinity of
the town are sandhills which lon
threatened to overwhelm the town, an
have in fact buried several streets, the
old post office, and some other buildings.
Their onward progress is now checked
by the growth of a peculiar grass, and
by plantations of the palmyra palm.
About 20 m. N.E. of Hambantotta
is Tissamaharama, the oldest of the
abandoned royal cities of Ceylon.
Except as a place of pilgrimage, the site
had been wholly abandoned till the
restoration of the tank by the Ceylon
Government. From this tank more
than a thousand acres are now culti-
vated in paddy, and both population
and the area under cultivation are
annually increasing. The ruins are
of great antiquity and interest. One
of the oldest and largest of the dagobas,
over 150 ft. high, which was in a very
ruinous condition, has been entirely
restored by the unassisted labour of the
Buddhist population. There are several
other very large dagobas, mostly in
ruins, and some smaller ones in fair con-
dition. The remains of large buildings
are numerous, and the ruins of what is
styled the King's palace, but is more
probably the lower story of a many-
storied monastery like the Brazen
Palace at Anuradhapura, are specially
worthy of notice. They consist of rows
of huge monolithic columns, much larger
than any at Anuradhapura or Pollona-
rua. Ruins are everywhere scattered
through the dense forest, and excava-
tions here would probably be better re-
paid than at any other spot in Ceylon.
There are two ways of reaching Tis-
samaharama from Hambantotta—
(1) The easiest route is that by the
high road to Badulla. On leaving
Hambantotta, the great lewayas, or
natural salt-pans, whence great amounts

of salt, a Government monopoly, are
annually taken, are passed.
15 m. Wirawila (R.H.) The high
road is here leftfland about four miles of
bad country road conducts the traveller
to the Government bungalow above the
tank, which does duty as a Rest-House.
(2) A more interesting route is along
the coast 21 m. to Kirinde (R.H.), a
small port of picturesque appearance.
There is a rough cart-road thence to
Tissamaharama, about 8 m. in length,
which passes many remains of antiquity.
8 m. beyond Kirinde, along the coast,
is Palutupane (R.H.), an excellent
centre for shooting excursions, as ele-
ghants, wild bufl'aloes, bears, leopards,
eer, and wild peacocks abound in the
wild and unpeopled forests and plains
around it. There are also antiquarian
remains of considerable interest.
From Palutupane there is a track,
good for horses, and generally passable
for a rough bullock-cart, to Batticaloa
(130 m.) (see Rte. 2). The forest scenery
on the Y ala river is very beautiful, and
the whole route presents great attrac-
tions to the sportsman.
ROUTE 6
Conoruso TO TRINCOMALEE BY Nncon-
BO, PUTTALAM, AND ANURADHA-
PURA.
(Coach to Chilaw; thence by special con-
veyance.)
A steamboat goes daily, or almost
daily, from Colombo to N egombo, and
from Negombo to Colombo, by the
canal, but it is usually both crowded
and uncomfortable, and very slow.

The coach-road leaves Colombo by
the Bridge of Boats (sec . 405), and
turning to the left, proceeds by
13 m. Jaela (R.H.) to


ROUTE 7.
417
RANDY TO JAFFNA
23 m. Negombmtr (RH. ), a large and
thriving town, picturesquely and singu-
larlylsituated among lagoons and canals,
—a true Dutch settlement. There is
a picturesque Dutch gateway, which
“im )rovers” have, ha pily, as yet
faile to remove, and a Eanyan tree of
magnificent dimensions. The whole
district between Colombo and Negombo
is densely inhabited. The innumer-
able villages are scattered through
cocoa-nut woods, cinnamon gardens,
and groves of jak fruit. The artist
and the photographer can find at every
corner of the countless roads and lanes
an inexhaustible variety of vignettes
of striking beauty. Leaving Negombo,
the road crosses the Maha Oya by a
fine bridge, about 400 ft. in length,
and proceeds through luxuriant cocoa-
nut groves and tobacco plantations to
36 m. Maravila (RH), a village
rapidly increasing in size and import-
ance. Near it is an enormous and
very costly Roman Catholic Church.
One of the most striking features on
this route is the number and size of the
Roman Catholic churches, erected for
the most part by the ople of the
fishing-villages along t e coast, who
almost all profess that religion.
41 in. Tinnipitiyawewa tank, one of
the most successful irrigation restora-
tions of the Ceylon Government, is
passed (rt.)
48 m. Chilaw (R.H.), another large
town, seat of an Assistant Government
Agency and of the District Court.
Here again is another huge Roman
Catholic Church. A large Hindu temple
at Muniseram, in the neighbourhood, is
worth a visit. 4 m. beyond Chilaw the
great river Dedura Oya is passed by a
ferry. A bad road, through a sandy
and uninteresting country, which, how-
ever, is being rapidly covered with
thriving cocoa-nut plantations, leads to
59 m. Battul Oya, another large river,
also crossed by a ferry, and then con-
tinues its way through country of a
similar character to
80 m. Puttalam (RH. ),a considerable
place, the headquarters of an Assistant
[India]

Government Agent. What gives l’ut-
talam its importance is the existence of
the largest salt-pans in Ge lon. The
whole island is supplied wit salt from
this place or Hambantotta. The pro-
cess of manufacture, and the salt- us,
are well worth seeing, if the visit to
Puttalam is made at the right season.
Salt is a Government monopoly. It is
manufactured here, and at Hamban-
totta, and thence retailed throughout
the island.
A canal connects Puttalam with
Ne ombo, but except between Chilaw
an Negombo it is little used. It is,
however, kept up for the transport of
salt.
The road after leavin Puttalam
strikes inland, and proceefs through a
sandy and thinly-peopled country to
103 m. Kala Oya (R.H.) The Kala
Oya river is here crossed by a bridge
75 feet above the ordinary level of the
stream, which was nevertheless carried
away by a flood in 1885.
127 m. Anuradhapura (see Rte. 7).
The road from Anuradhapura to Trin-
comalee passes through
135 m. Mihintale (R. H.) (see Rte.7).
After leaving Mihintale, the road
(constructed 1886) passes through a
thinly-inhabited country, the villages,
with their tanks and cultivation, being
sparsely scattered through the forest.
160 m. Horowapotane (R.H.) A
large tank and village.
177 m. Pankulam (R.H.) A few
miles beyond Pankulam, on the rt.
of the road, and half a mile from it,
are the remarkable hot springs of
Chim iddi. They are nine in number,
but t ough of different temperatures,
rise close together in one ancient stone
basin. They are considered equally
sacred by Buddhists, Hindus, and
Mohammedans, and the ruins of a
dagoba, a temple of Vishnu, and
a mosque stand together in the im-
mediate vicinity.
192 m. 'I'rlncomalee (see Rte. 8).
2 E


mourn 7.
419
KANDY TO JAFFNA
be made, 8 m. by good carriage-road,
to the Great Tank of Kalwawewa.*
This magnificent sheet of water was
o1iginally formed by King Dhatu
Sena about 400 A.D., who built a blind
6 m. long, 60 ft. high, and 20 ft. broad
on the top. This bund retains the
waters of two rivers, and forms a lake
which even now, when the spill only
reaches a height of 25 ft., has a contour
of nearly 40 m. A great canal from
one of_ the sluices of this tank carries
water to Anuradhapura, a distance of 52
111., and supplies over 100 village tanks
in its course. A few miles of the canal
at the end nearest Annradhapura were
restored by Sir William Gregory nearly
20 years ago, but the tank itself and
the remainder of the canal remained in
ruin, as they had been for many cen-
turies, till 1884, when the Ceylon
Government decided to restore them.
The work was completed at the end of
1887. The bungalow of the engineer-
in charge commands a fine view over
the lake. The ancient spill, 260 ft.
long, 200 ft. wide, and 40 ft. high, is
still in perfect preservation ; the tank
having been destroyed, not by any
failure of the spill, but by an enormous
breach on one side of it,—n0w covered
by the new spill wall, a fine structure
nearly 1000 ft. in length, which reflects
much credit on its designer and builder,
Mr. W. Wrightson, of the Ceylon Public
Works Department. 2 m. W. of
Kalawewa is the Aukuna Vihara, an
ancientmonastery in awild and secluded
situation, where is an enormous rock-
cut standing statue of Buddha, 40 ft.
high. The statue stands almost en-
tirely free of the rock from which it is
carved, and the right arm is raised
and free from the body of the statue.
At the foot of the hund are ruins of
the very ancient city of Vigitipura.]
The road from Kekerawa passes for
the most part through monotonous and
uninteresting forest to
70 m. Tirapane * (R.H.) 4 m.
farther there is a division in the road.
Thebranch leading due N.is thestraight
road to Jaffna through Mihintale ;
that to the N.W. proceeds in nearly
a straight line to

84 m. Anunmmuna =0: (R.H.)
The traveller who contemplates a
thorou h examination of the ruins is
advise to call on the Government
Agent at the Cutcherry, from whom he
will obtain all necessary information
and assistance. Anuradhapura became
the capital of Ceylon in the 5th cent.
13.0., and attained its highest magni-
ficence about the commencement of
the Christian era. It suffered much
during the earlier Tamil invasions, and
was finally deserted as a royal residence
769 A.D. A small village has always
remained on the site, but it is only
since the constitution of the North
Central Province, in 1872, by Sir W.
Gregory, that any revival has taken
place in this much neglected district.
Since that date hundreds of village
tanks have been restored ; famine and
the dreadful disease called parangi
(produced by the use of bad water and
insufficient food) have been driven
away, and the population is yearly
becoming more prosperous and healthy.
With a few exceptions, the objects of
interestatAnuradhapuramaybedivided
into three classes—Dagobas, Monastic
buildings, and Pokmms.
I. Dagobas.—A dagoba is a bell~
shaped construction erected over some
relic of Buddha or his chief disciples.
It is always solid, and is surmounted
by a cubical structure called the tee,
which again is surmounted by a lofty
spire. The number of dagobas in
Anuradhapura is countless, and they
vary in size from the enormous masses
of the four great dagobas to tiny objects
barely 2 or 3 ft. in diameter. The four
chief dagobas are——
1. The Ruanwclli Dagoba, completed
140 13.0. Its diameter is 370 ft., but
it does not retain its original altitude,
having been much injured by the
Tamils in different invasions. It is
now only 150 ft. in height. The lower
part of the structure and the platform
on which it stands have been carefully
cleared about the year 1873, and the
various fragments of the so-called
“ chapels " put together and restored.
2. The Abhayagirig/a. This is the
largest dagoba in Auuradhapura. Its
diameter is 357 ft., and its height when


422
CEYLON
ROUTE 8
KANDY TO TRINCOMALEE (with excur-
sion to POLLONARUA).
(From Dambool a mail carriage drawn by bul-
locks starts daily for Trincomalee. The ex-
cursion to Pollonarua must be made on
horseback.)
As far as Dambool this route is the
same as Rte. 7.
On crossing the bridge over the
Mirisgani Oya, instead of turning l. to
Anuradhapura and Jafi'na (Rte. 7), the
road proceeds straight on, and passing
rt. the track to Sigiri (Rte. 7), con-
tinues chiefl through dense but poor
forest, varie by one or two villages in
the midst of small clearings, to
60 m. (from Kandy) Habarane
(H.H.) The village, though small, is
increasin since the restoration of its
tank. T ere is a picturesque Buddhist
Temple of considerable antiquity, in
which are paintings of better design
and execution than are usually found
in such places. From the great rock
by the tank a singular view is obtained
over the great sea of forest to the N.
and E., out of which rises with start-
ling abruptness the rock pillar of
Sigiri (see Rte. 7).
[From Habarane an extremely inter-
esting excursion may be made to P01-
lonarua. (32 m.), one of the ancient
and deserted capitals of Ceylon. This
expedition must be made on horseback,
as the road is merely a rough bridle-
path through the forest. After passing
for about 18 111. through wood so dense
that it is seldom the eye can penetrate
more than a few yds. on either side of
the path, Mineri is reached. The
journey varies in length according to the
' state of the lake, which has to be skirted,
and which varies in size considerably
according to the season. This lake is all
that remains of a huge tank, the bund
of which still exists, but of which the
sluices, though not destroyed, are now
permanently kept open by fallen masses
of masonry. The scenery of this lake
is enchanting, and nothing can exceed

the beauty both in form and colour of
the mountain ranges to the S. There
is a sort of shelter at the Gansabhawa.
tribunal in the village below the bund,
but the traveller is strongly recom-
mended to have some temporary shelter
put up for him on the bund itself,
where there is fresh air, and whence
he can enjoy the exquisite views during
a midday halt. Half way between
Mineri and Pollonarua is the small
lake of Giritella, also an abandoned
tank, and also highly picturesque.
The approach to Pollonarua * (R.H.),
like that to Mineri, varies considerably
in length according to the height Of
water in the lake. On the bund is a
R.H; overlooking the lake. The view
is very similar to that from Mineri,
and is of great beauty, though less so
now than it was before some zealous
public officer, in his desire that nothing
should impede the view to the 8., cut
down a clump of trees on a projectin
promontory, which must have formed
a lovely foreground to it.
Pollonarua first became a royal resi‘
dence in 368 A.D., when the lake of
Topawcwa was formed, but it did not
take rank as the capital till the middle
of the 8th cent. The principal ruins,
however, are of a later date, being
chiefly of the time of Prakrama Bahu,
1153-1186 A.D. It is now wholly
deserted, and the masses of ruin, which
are strewed for miles around, have to
be sought in the dense jungle. The
following are the principal objects of
interest.
About 1 m. S. of the H.H. is the
colossal rock-cut statue of Prakrama
Bahu, a cast of which is to be seen in
the Colombo Museum. To the W. lie
the ruins of what appears to have been
a strong tower, the probably wooden
interior of which is wholly gone ; and
a little farther in the same direction
the royal pavilions and bathing-tank,
ornamented by much elegant sculp-
ture.
About 1; m. to the N. is a remarkable
group of buildings: The Dalada, or
tooth-shrine, a fine granite building in
good preservation, and having much
elegant ornament of fquasi-Hindu
design ; the Thupaz'ama, a large mas~


APPENDIX
LIST OF Sovnnmens wno REIGNED AT DELHI FROM 1193 TO 1806 1.1).
The Pathan, Afghan, or Ghori Kings
of Hindustan who reigned at Delhi.
Mu’izu ’d-din Muhammad bin Sam,
1st Dynasty . . .
Kutbu-din Aibak .
Aram Shah . .
Shamsu-din Altamsh .
Ruknu-din Feroz Shah .
Sultanah Riziah . .
Mu’izu-din Bahram Shah
A’lau-din Masa'ud Shah
Nasiru-din Mahmud
Ghiasu-din Balban
Mu’izu-din Kaikubad . . .
Jclalu-din Feroz Shah, Khilji, 2d
Dynasty . . . . .
Ruknu-din Ibrahim . .
’Alau-din Muhammad Shah .
Shahabu-din ’Umar .
Kutbu-din Mubarak Shah
Nasiru-din Khusru . . .
Ghiasu - din Tughlak Shah, 3d
Dynasty . . . .
Muhammad bin Tughlak .
Feroz Shah bin Salar RaJab .
Tughlak Shah II. . . .
Abubakr Shah II. . . .
Muhammad Shah bin Feroz Shah
Sikander Shah . . . .
Mahmud Shah bin Muhammad
Shah . . . . .
Nusrat Shah . .
Mahmud restored .
Daulat Khan Lodi . .
Khizr Khan Sa’id, 4th Dynasty
Mubarak Shah II. . . . .
Muhammad Shah bin Farid Shah
'Alam Shah . . . .
Bahlol Lodi, 5th Dynasty
Sikandar bin Bahlol .
Ibrahim bin Sikandarf .
0
All.
589
602
607
607
633
634
637
639
643
664
686
689
695
695
715
716
720
720
725
752
790
791
793
795
795
797
802
81 6
81 7
824
837
849
855
894
923
AID.
1193
1206
1210
1211
1236
1236
1240
1242
1246
1266
1287
1290
1296
1296
1316
1316
1321
1321
1325
1351
1388
1389
1391
1393 V
1393
1395
1400
1413
1414
1421
1434
1445
1451
1489
1517
)-

The Mogul Emperors of Hindustan.
11.11.
Babar, Zahiru-din Muhammad,
mounted the throne on June 9th 899
Humayun, Nasiru-din Muhammad ;
in 946 defeated by Sher Shah 937
Humayun, Nasiru-din Muhammad,
founded the M ogut Dynasty of Delhi 962
Akbar, Abu'l fath, J elalu-diu Mu-
hammad, consolidated Empire .
J ehangir, Abu’l Muzafi‘ar Nuru-din
Muhammad, 7th October
Shah J ehan, Shahabu-din Ghazi,
9th February . . . . 1037
Aurangzib ’Alamgir, Abu'l Mumffar,
Muhaiyiu-din, 24th February . 1068
’Azim Shah, Muhammad Shahid,
3d March . . . . . 1118
Bahadur Shah, Shah ’Alam, Abul
Muzafl‘ar Kutbu-di n,23d February 1118
J ehandar Shah, Mu ’izzu-din, 11th
963
1014
January . . . . . 1124
Farrukhsiyar, Muhammad, 11th
January . . . 1124
Raf'iu darjat, Shamsu-din 18th
January . . . . . 1131
Raf'iu daulat, Shahjahan Sani,
26th April . . . . . 1131
Muhammad Nikosiyar, May, . 1131
Muhammad Shah, Abu’l fath N asiru
din, 28th Aug. . . . . 1131
Sultan Muhammad Ibrahim, 4th
October . . . . . 1132
Ahmad Shah, Abu’l Nasr, 20th
A.D.
1494
1531
1554
1556
1605
1628
1658
1707
1707
1713
1713
_1719
'1719
April . . . . . . 1161
'Alamgir 11., ’Azizu-din Muham-
mad, ‘Zd June . . . . 1167
Shahjahan, 29th November . . 1173
Shah 'Alam J alalu-din (Mirza ’Ab-
du’llah, 'Ali Gohar) . . 1173
Muhammad Bedar bakht . 1201
Akbar II., Abu’l Nasir, Mun'aim
din Muhammad, 3d December . 1221
1719
1719
1720
1744
1749
1759
1759
1786
1806


‘3‘1 1‘. I.





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_ COLOMBO
»_:_V_";_. '4,' Ina.”
' , 1g"; Liaisod
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..- “(Kalulm'a u
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s f "L '-
' a. v Q,“ \ \
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4






0‘”;th I l
a, t/‘unugdfu/
- “ '11 d s artl ::
13?“- 5
v e—+-
IO 20 so so
REFERENCE To PROVINCES
I Nurthem
2 Form Central
'5 Narlh “'eaie‘rn
'l- Central
5 Eastern
GWestern.
7 S ablrag amuwa.
RUva.
50
0); j 3
3.7 Baas,“
Q ta-
tin
ea
UMiwlw’
1 f7 I ’5 T (1110/
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181'
psArnI). '5.
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'1
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*ans Q5


"'__.


INDEX AND DIRECTORY FOR 1893-4
(R.):Refreshment Room ; D.B. =Dak or Travellers' Bungalow ;
B.B. =Rest House ; H. =Hotel.

A.
ABBOTABAD, D.B., 210.
ABU (MOUNT). See Mount
Abu.
ABU ROAD (R.), 118.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
Ponies and other convey-
ances obtainable.
Achilghar, 119.
AOENERA (R.), 165.
Adam's Peak, 408, 412.
Adamwahan Bridge, 216.
ADONI, 301.
AGRA (R.), D.B., 165.
Hotels: H. Me'tropole (Mrs.
Reynolds), good; Laurie's
Great Northern H., about 1
m. from rly. sta.; good.
Agra Cantonment H ., United
Service H., Great Western H.
(late Harrison’s).
Banks: B. of Bengal, The
Urwovenanted B. , TheAgra B.
Churches: St. George's,
Cantonment, Matins daily,
7.30 A.M., Sunday 10 A.M.,
with H. (1.; Evensong, 6 P.M.~;
St. Paul's, Civil Lines, 8
n.m., Matins with H. C.
alternate Sundays ; St.
Mathias's, Agra Fort, 8 A.M.,
Matias alternate Sundays.
Shops: Shawl Merchants,
Gold and Silver Embroidery,
Gunashi Lall and Sons;
Jahori, Bazaar, Soap-stone,
and Inland Marble Work,
N ulhoo Ram, opposite Agra
College.
Club: Agra 0., near Post
Office.
Missions: C.M.S., St.
John’s College.
AGRA FORT (R.), 165.
Ahar, 86.
AHMEDABAD (R.), 110.
No Hotel: D.B. 200 yds.
[India] iv. 94
S.W. of Church, just outside
Delhi Gate; Good Bedrooms
attached to the rly. sta.
Refreshment Rooms.
AHMEDNAGAMR.),D.B.297.
Club ood.
Golf lub.
Missions: S.P.G., see p.
297
Aiwulli, 335.
name, 31.


ALUTNUWERA, 410.
ALUTOYA, B.B. small, well
situated for sportsmen, 423.
ALWAR (Ulwer), 128.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
There are Rooms at the
Maharajah’s private rly. sta.
Travellers are sometimes
allowed to occupy them on
application to the Maha-
rajah’s Secretary, to whom
application must also be
made for a carriage, which is
kindly put at the disposal
of visitors.
AMBALANGODA, B.B. first-
class: good bathing-place,
414. ‘
AMBALANTOT'I'A, RH. fair,
415.
AMBARNATH, 284.
AMBEPUSSA, 406.
AMBER, 126.
meson (R.), 76.
AMMAYANAYAKANUR,
394
AJMERH (R.), 1521.
Sleeping Rooms at the
Rly. Sta. excellent. D.B.
(no bedding).
Club: Kaiser Bagh.
AJODHYA, 241.
AKOLA, 74.
ALIGARH, 249.
D.B. Kellner‘s Refresh-
ment and Sleeping Rooms.
Aliwal, 194.
ALLAHAIBAD, 36.
Hotels : Laurie‘s Great
Northern [1,, Great Eastern H.
good.
Kellner’s > Rooms, -at-
tached to the rly. sta., afford
comfortable sleeping accom-
modation, and are perhaps
the best place to stop at on a
short visit. Chota-hazry is
provided in the rooms, but
other meals have to be taken
in the Rly. Refreshment
Room.
Club: N. W. P. Club.
Newspapers: ThePioneer,
a daily paper, one of the
most important in India;
The Pioneer Mail, for readers
in Europe.
Missions: C.M.S., St.
Paul's Church; Divinity
College.
ALMORAH, 246.
D.B. Several Hotels.
Houses are to be obtained
on hire.
Alor, 217.
15.3. comfortable, close
to rly. sta., convenient for
travellers to and from
Palney Hills, Madura.
AMRAOTI, 34, 74.
Waiting and Refresh-
ment Rooms. Good D.B.
Amravati, 352.
AMRI'I‘SAR. (R.), 194.
D.B. very fair, 3 Hotels
(including Railway H. and
Amritsar 11.), all near rly.
sta.
Missions : C.M.S., St.
Paul’s Church; Schools and
Hospital.
Anadra, D.B., 120.
Anagundi, 347.
ANAND, 110. _
Andhor, 88.
2 F


428
INDEX AND DIRECTORY

Steamship Agencies :
Peninsular 6)" Oriental 8.8.
00., Supt., H. W. Uloth, 3
Rampart Row. Steamers
every week to Aden, Is-
mailia, Port Said, Brindisi,
Malta, Gibraltar, Plymouth,
London, and Venice; and
every fortnight toMarseilles,
Colombo, Madras, Calcutta,
Straits Settlements, China,
Japan, and Australia.
British India S.N. 00.,
Mackinnon, Mackenzie and
00., Green St., for Calcutta,
Persian Gulf, Burmah, and
E. Coast of Africa.
Hall Line, Edward Bates
and Co. , Elphinstone Circle.
Clan Line, Finlay, Muir
and Co.
Messageries Maritimes, 29
Esplanade Road.
Nav. Gen. I taliana, Florio,
and Rubattino United 00s.,
F. Bozzoni, Sassoon House.
Austro-Hungarian Lloyd’s
S. N. ('0., J. Janni, 50
Church Gate St.
Anchor Line of Steamers,
W. and A. Graham and Co.,
Graham’s Buildings ; and
T. Cook and Son.
Tourist Ofllce: Messrs.
T. Cook and Son, opposite
Esplanade H., are also
agents for rly. tickets and
all kinds of information in
connection with excursions
and tours (e. g. to Elephanta
and Kanhari). “ Cook's
Indian Tours," a pamphlet
(ls.), containing full infor-
mation about tours, price of
tickets, etc., will be found
very useful.
Bankers: Bank of Bom-
bay, Elphinstone Circle ;
Chartered Bank of India,
Elphinstone Circle; Heng-
Kong and Shanghai Bank,
Church Gate St. ; National
Bank of I nd ia, Rampart Row.
Markets: Crawford, for
fruit, vegetables, flowers,
poultry, meat, etc.
Cloth, in Native Quarter,
Shaik Memon St.
Cotton, Cotton Green,
Colaba.
Copper, close to Momba-
devi Tank, Native Quarter.
Opium, there is no definite
market-place, but business
is transacted in the streets
of the Native Quarter.
Merchants: for Wood carv-
ing, Inlaid work, Silks, and
Embroide ries,Tellery and Co.
Esplanade (very good), and
also at the shops in Kalba-

devi Road and the adjoining
streets.
Wine Merchants: Phip-
son and Co. ; Treacher and
Co., and Bolton and Co.—all
in Esplanade Road.
Calling: It is the custom
in Bombay and throughout
India to pay first calls
within the hours of 12 and 2,
rather than in the afternoon.
BHOR GHAT, 2S6.
BORIVLI, 104.
Borpani, D.B., 266.
BOSTAN (R)., 227.
BOTAD, 151.
BRAHMAPUTRA RIVER,
266.
BREWERY (R.) (see Naini
Tal), 245. r
BRITISH FRONTIER (R.),
345.
BROACH, 107.
D.B. in town.
Room at sta.
BUDDH GAYA, 49.
Bulrampur, 241.
BUNDELKUN D
VINCE, 90
BURDWAN (R.), 51.
Kellner’s H.
BURHANPUR, 34.
D.B. in city (Barrack
Square) poor.
BUXAR (R.), 47.
D.B. near Fort. Hotel.
C.
Waiting
PRO.
Cachar, 268.
CALCUTTA, 52.
Hotels: The Great Eastern
H., Spence's H., H. de Paris
(Bonsard's), Dhurrumtolla;
Boscolo’s Bellevue H.
The use of hotels is com-
paratively limited. Board-
ing-Houses are numerous,
and are often preferred,
especially for a lengthened
stay in Calcutta. The ap-
proximate charges are 150 rs.
a month, or 5 rs. a day, for
board and lodging (wine not
included). In the height of
the season, charges some-
times run up to 8rs. and 10rs.
a day. Residents take their
meals together as a rule, but
in some houses suites or
single rooms may be en-
gaged, with meals served in
private.
Boarding Houses: Mrs.
Walter's, 6-9 Russell Street,
is recommended?; Mrs. Pell's,
1 Little Russell Street, 9

Middleton Row ; Mrs.
Monk's, 11 Middleton Row,
15 Chowringhee, 13 Theatre
Road ; Mrs. Day’s, 1 Theatre
Road, 15 Chowringhee. Mrs.
Baily, 10 Middleton Row.
Clubs (Residential): Ben-
gal Club, 33 Chowringhee
Road, S. side of Esplanade.
The houses, 1 Park St., and
1 and 5 Russell St., are fitted
as chambers for residents;
33 Chowringhee Road, con-
tains bedrooms for members.
The Club-h ouse was formerly
the residence of Mr. T. B.
(afterwards Lord) Macaulay.
Members of this Club are
hon.members of the Madras,
Byculla, Bong-Kong, and
Shanghai Clubs, and vice'
versa.
The United Service Club,
81 Chowringhee Road. At-
tachedtoit arethehouses 1,2
and 3 Kyd St. and 56 Park St.
German Club, 40 Free
School St.
Clubs (Miscellaneous):
India Club, 67 Bankshall
Street.
New Club, 46 Park St.
Saturday Club, Wood St.
For games and amusements.
Ladies can become members
as well as men.
Golf Club, established 1829.
Links on the Maidan: there
are two courses of 9 holes
each.
Conveyances: Carriages
can be hired at from 5 to 1 0 rs.
a day. Cabs (commonly
called ticoa garis) are plenti-
ful, charges moderate.
Banks: Bank of Bengal, 3
Strand; Agra B., Mangoe
Lane ; Ch. Bk. of India, Aus-
tralia and China, 5 Council
House St. ; Mere. Bk. of
India, Limtd., 28 Dalhousie
Sq. ; Delhi and London Bk.,
4 Council House St. ; Hang-
Kong and Shanghai Bkng.
Corpor., Dalhousie Sq. ;
National Bk. of India,
Council House St.
Restaurant and Con-
fectioners: Peliti, 10 Es-
planade, E.; Gt. Eastern H.
Booksellers and Sta-
tioners: Thacher, Spink,
and 00., Government Place ;
the best in India, and ex-
cellent. W. Newman and
00., Dalhousie Sq.
Native Booksellers: S.
K. Lahiri and 00., 54 Col-
lege Street : Shambhu Chan-
dra Addy, Wellington Street.
Newspapers: TheEngl ish-


432
INDEX AND DIRECTORY

BTAMPITIYA, B.B.
fortable, 409.
BTABNBAH (R.), 252.
(food supplied at moderate
charge).- Carriages at rly.
sta.
Everest, Mount, 263.
com-
I“.
FALSE POINT, 269, 282.
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. 00., C. M. Binny.
PARDARPUR, D.B., 31.
rarnnamn (R.), 81.
FATEHPUR-SIKRI, 175.
D.B. in the old Record
Office (see plan).
Fazilka, 164.
Fegu, D.B., 249.
Fenchuganj, 268.
PEROZEPUR (R.), 164.
D.B. near Dep. Commis-
sioner’s Cutcherry.
Fort St. David, 387.
FRENCH ROCKS, 373.
FULLERS CAMP, 227.
F'ulta, 53.
Futtehpore, D.B., 248.
PYZABAD (R.), 240.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
Ajodhya, the Jerusalem of ‘
Hinduism, is 4 m. distant.
G.
GADAG (R.), 335, 345.
D.B. .1 m. from rly. sta.
GADARWARA, B.B., 35.
Gad‘r Ar‘ran, 213.
GALLE, 414.
Hotel : Peninsular 43'
Oriental H. fairly comfort-
able.
Steamship Agencies:
Clun Line, Clark, Spence and
Co. ; British India S.N. 00.,
and Anchor Line, Delmege,
Reid and Co.
GAMBER, 214.
Gampola, 408.
GARPOS, 77.
GAUHA‘I'I, D.B., 266.
Daily Pony Tonga Service
at 6 4.11. or not later than 9
} m. from rly. sta.}

11.11., to Shillong. Rates for
each seat 25 rs., 15 seers
of luggage free. Ordinary
bullock train service to
Shillong, daily. Write
to Manager, Gauhati and
Shillong Transit Service,
Gauhati.
GAUR, 259.
(See English Bazar.)
can, D.B., 49.
GERSOPPA, D.B., 26, 357.
GHAZIABAD, 190, 249.
Waiting and Refresh-
ment Rooms at rly. sta.
Erith sleeping accommoda-
ion.
GHAZI GHAT, 216.
GILIMALE, 412.
Good accommodation and
water.
Gingi Fort, 384.
Gi'r, 154.
Giridih, 50.
Giritella Lake, 422.
Gi'rmu", 155.
GOA, 322.
HHotels: Gomes' H .,Orescent
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. 00., L. S. Ribeiro.
GOALPARA, D.B. , 266.
GOALUNDO GHAT, 267.
Steamers (comfortable),
daily mail service to Narain-
ganj.
GODRA, 110.
GOGA GATE, 108.
GOKAK ROAD (R.), 319.
Gokul, 182. ‘
Golaghat, 266.
GOLKON DA, 342.
Gonda, 241.
GONDAL, 162.
There are a good Guest
House and D.B., both com-
fortably furnished.
GOOTY (R.), 301.
Govardhan, 183.
GUJRANWALA (R.), 205.
D.B. close to sta., poor.
N0 cabs to be had. -
GULISTAN, 227.
Gumlih, 162.
GUNTAKAL (R.), 301.
GUN'I'UR, 351.
GUZERAT, D.B., 207.

GWALIOR (R.), 92.
D.B. at rly. sta.
The Musafir Khana, near
the rly. sta. is a handsome,
Well-furnished house built
for the friends of the Maha-
rajah, and persons of dis-
tinction recommended by
the Resident. It is neces-
sary for such persons to
write beforehand to the
state Engineer in charge to
obtain permission to occupy
rooms there, and also to in-
sure accommodation, as it is
frequently full.
Gaol Carpets, etc. made
to order, reasonable price,
good work.
H.
HABARANE, B.B., 422.
HAIDARABAD (Deccan),
(R.), 338.
Hotel: (See Secundera-
bad.)
HAIDARABAD (Sind), 220.
Missions : C.M.S., Church
and Schools.
Hakgalla, 409.
HALDAMULLA, 413.
B.B. indifferent, but good
club, to which access is easy.
HAMBANTOTTA, B.B., 415.
Hammoncondah, 345.
HAMPI (Humpi) (Vijaya-
nagar), 345.
(The Rly. Sta. for Hampi
is Hospet).
D.B. at Kamalapur. The
fee for its use is 1 r. r
diem (1 r. '8 for a married
couple), and the visitor must
make his own arrangements
about food. Mosquito cur-
tains should be brought.
There is a Peon in charge of
the rooms, who will act as
guide for a small fee.
HANSI, D.B., 163.
HANWELLA, B.B. good, 411.
HARAPA, 214.
HARDA, 34.
D.B. 3 minutes’ walk from
rly. sta., good.
HARDOI (R.), 231.
D.B. close to sta.
HARDWAR, 246.
Rly. in contemplation to
Dehra Doon.
HARIHAR (R.), 353.
HARIPUR, D.B., 121.
HARNAI, D.B., 227.
Bullock Dhumni or Tonga
available.


INDEX AND DIRECTORY
435

journey. Some people prefer
this place to Darjeeling.
KURUNEGALA, R.H., 406.
KUTALLAM, 398.
KUTB (Delhi), 145.
Police Rest House in the
tomb of Adham Khan. Com-
fortable quarters. Applica-
tion must be made before-
hand to the superintendent
of police at Delhi for per-
mission to stop there. D.B.
close to the great mosque.
L.
LABANI, 208.
LAHORE (R.), 197.
D.B. 2 m. from rly. sta.
Hotels: Nedou's H., Char-
ing Cross H., Royal Victoria
H., Montgomery H., North
Western H., Clark’s Family
H., Court House H., Sind
and Panjab H. in Civil Lines,
good.
Boarding Houses: H il-
lier’s, Caversham.
Club in Civil Lines,Panjab
Club.
Missions: C.M.S. St.
John’s Divinity School;
Zenana Mission, and Trinity
Church.
LAKI (R.), D.B., 220.
Lakkundi, 336.
Lakwar, D.B., 249.
LALA MUSA (R.), 207.
LALI'I'PUR, D.B., 89.
LANDOUR, 249.
Hotel: Oriental H.
LARKANA, D.B., 218.
LASALGAON, 31.
Lashkar, 96.
Lassendra, 110.
Lena Caves, 29.
LHAKSAR, 230, 246.
I'ibong, 264.
LIMBDI, 151.
LINGAMPALLI, 338.
Lodwick Point, 314.
Logarh Hill-Fort, 289.
LONAULI (R. ), 286.
Hotel 4 m. from rly. sta.
Starting-place for drive to
the Caves at Karli.
LONDA (R.), 321.
' LORALAI, 227.
LUCKEESERAI, 50, 262.
LUCKNOW (R.), 231.
Hotels: H ill’s Imperial H .,
good ; Civil and Military 11.;
Royal H. ; Prince of Wales’s H.

Club: United Service, in
the Chatr Manzil Palace.
Missions: C.M.S. sta. (at
Zahur Bakhsh), Church of
Epiphany and Schools.
LUDHIANA, 194.
D.B. at rly. sta.
Lundi Kotal, 213.
Luni, 120.
LUNUGALA, R.H., 410.
M
MADDAWACHCHIYA, R.H.,
421.
MADDUR (R.), 371.
Visitors to Cauvery Falls
can alight at the Sonanhalli
Platform, on previous notice
to station-master there.
Madhavapur, 162.
Madhuband, 50.
MADHUPUR (R.), D.B., 50.
MADRAS, 303.
Hotels: Lansdowne H.,
opposite thejetty (European
management), small and
clean. Capper House H.,
on the Beach, about 4 m. S.
of the pier, and 3 m. from
rly. sta. ; Dent’s Gardens H .,
Elphinstone H., Royal H.,
Buckingham H ., Victoria H.,
Connemara H., and Branch
Elphinstone H., Wellington
H., all in central position,
on or near Mount Road,
not far from the Madras
Club, and about 2 m. from
the pier, and l m. from rly.
sta. There are also several
hotels in BLACK T0 WN near
the harbour, but (excepting
Lansdowne H.) they are not
recommended.
Agents: Arbuthnot and
Co. (branch of Henry S. King
and Co., 65 Cornhill), and
Binny and Co. (Branch of
Grindlay and Co., Parlia-
ment St.), both undertake all
business in connection with
travelling, banking, and
financial arrangements for
travellers in India.
Banks: Bank of Madras,
Popham's Broadway; Agra
Bank, Esplanade; Char-
tered Mercantile Bank of
India, London, and China,
First Line, Beach ; Com-
mercial and Land Mortgage
Bank, Ltd., Armenian St.;
National Bank of India,
Ltd., Armenian St.
Booksellers: Addison and
Co., Higginbotham and C0.,
Vest and 00., all three in

Mount Road; Kalyanaram
Iyer, Black Town.
Chemists : Norton and
00., Mount Road; W. E.
Smith and 00., Mount Road
and Esplanade ; and Savage
and C0. Mount Road.
Clubs: The Madras C.
Central situation at 1 m.
from the rly. sta. on Mount
Road. Honorary members
will find themselves far more
comfortable here than in an
hotel; there is a consider-
able number of residential
chambers.
The Madras Cosmopolitan
Club also on Mount Road.
It is a mixed club of Euro-
peans and native gentlemen.
The Adyar Club admits
ladies as well as gentlemen ;
it is 3 m. S. of Madras Club,
and in its grounds the Ma-
dras Boat Club has its sheds.
Ooni'ectioner: D'Angel is,
Mount Road.
Oonveyances: The dis-
tances in Madras are very
considerable. It is neces-
sary for travellers who wish
to see the sights in a short
time to engage a carriage.
Hire, a day, 1 horse, 3 rs.,
2 horses, 7 rs.
The principal livery stable
keepers are the Madras
Stable C0., who hire out
broughams with 1 horse for
3 rs. a day, which is raised
in the season to 4 rs. and
sometimes 5 rs. The hack
carriages to be hired in the
streets are cheaper, but are
generally badly horsed and
far from clean.
Dentists: S. W. Clerk,
Spur Tank, Egmore; H. J.
Gould, N ungumbaukum.
Medical Men: Dr. Bran-
foot, Pantheon Road; Dr.
Cook, Royapuram; Dr.
Drake-Brockma-n, Eye Hos-
pital, Dr. Brown, General
Hospl. ; Dr. Smyth, General
Hospl.
Lady Doctor : Miss
Macphail, Royapuram.
Jewellers : P. Orr and
Sons, Mount Road ; Framjee
Pestonjee Bhumgara, Mount
Road.
Missions: The S.P.G.
(Mission House in Rundall's
Rd., Vepery), serve the fol-
lowing churches :— St.
Thome, St. Paul's, Vepery,
and St. John's, Egmore,
and have charge of a Theo-
logical College in Sullivan’s
Gardens ; also of schools


436
INDEX AND DIRECTORY

and orphanages. 0. M .S. sta.
(at Egmore), Holy Trinity
Church; Divinity School,
and Harris High School.
Newspapers: Dly. Papers,
The Madras Mail, The Ma-
dras Times, and The Hindu.
Tri - Weekly Paper, The
Madras Standard.
Opticians: P. Orr and
Sons, and Lawrence d: Mayo,
both in Mount Road.
Photographers : Nicho-
las and 00., Wiele and Klein,
and Hughes and 00., all in
Mount Road.
Steamship Agencies :
P. 02" O. S.N. Co.,--Arbnth-
not and 00. Steamers dur-
ing passenger season every
fortnight to Calcutta and to
Colombo, Aden, Ismailia,
Port Said, Marseilles, Gib-
raltar, Plymouth, and Lon-
don, etc.
Clan Line,—Gord0n, Wood-
rojfe and 00.
Austro-Hangarian Lloyd’s
S.N. 00., and British India
S.N. 00. (weekly service to
Calcutta, which see)—Binny
and 00.
A nchor Line,-Best and Co.
Tailors and Habit-
makers: Garratt, Camille,
and 00., Smith and Andre,
Moses and 00., Cakes and 00.,
all in Mount Road.
Wine Merchants : Spencer
and 00., Mount Road and
Esplanade; Oakes and Co.
and Fox and 00., Mount Road
and Popham’s Broadway.
MADURA, 395.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
Excellent sleeping accom-
modation at the rly. sta.
MAGALHAT, 265.
MAGAR PIR, 225.
MAHA OYA, R.H., 410.
MAHABALESHWAR, 313.
Hotels : Fountain H.,
good, fine view. Mahabal-
eshwar H., Ripon H.
Club with bedrooms at-
tached.
Mail Contractor, Ard-
eshir Framjee, Civil Lines,
Poona.
MAHABALIPUR, 398.
MAHABAN, 182.
Mahala-at, 335.
MAHARA, 406.
Mahé, 360.
MAHIM, 104.
Scottish 0 11811 6
o\.<l‘11l>llSlled 1859, the :51);

institution of its kind in the
Bombay Presidency.
MAHMUD KOT (R.), 216.
MAHOBA, D.B., 103.
Mahuli, 316.
Mailargar, 337.
Maindroit, 249.
Malcolm Peth, 313.
MALDAH, 259.
MALVALLI, D.B. good, 371.
Malwala, 412.
Manchhar Lake, 219.
Mandor, 121.
MANDSAUR, 82.
MANDVI, 163.
MANGALORE, 358.
MANGI, 227.
MANIKPUR (R.), 36, 104.
MAN IKYALA, 208.
Manipur, 266, 268.
MANIYACHI, 397.
Mannaar, 421.
MARAVILA, R.H. good, 416.
MARBLE ROCKS,2 D.Bs., 35.
Mardan, 212.
Margala, 210.
MARMAGOA, 321, 356.
MARWAR, 120, 121.
MASKELIYA, 409.
MATALE, 418.
RH. good, practically an
Hotel.
MATARA, R.H. very comfort-
able, 415.
MATHERAN, 285.
Much frequented from Sat.
till Mon. in the season.
Hotels: Pi nto’s H ., Rugby
H., Chowk H., Granville H.
MAU, 102.
D.B. } m. from rly. sta.
Conveyances obtainable;
native medical officer, Post
and Telegraph Ofiices.
Mayapnr, 246.
MAYAVERAM, 388.
MEBAN MEER, 197, 204, 214.
MEERUT, D.B., 190.
Hotels : several. The
Empress H., best; Lytton H.,
Meerut H., Gee's H., Court-
ney's H.
Club: Whelfl' C. (Whelee).
Mission sta. of 0.M.S.
MBHMADABAD, 110.
Good Waiting Room at
rly. sta. -

MEHSANA, 117.
Melxlr, 74.
MBTTUPALAIY AM (R.),379.
Hotel near rly. sta.
MHOW, 80.
D.B. and Refreshment and
Waiting Room at rly. sta.
Miani, 162.
Mihintale, 420.
MIN CHNAL, 324.
Mineri, 422.
MIRAJ (R.), 317.
D.B. near sta.
Mirisgoni Oya, 418.
MIRZAPUR, D.B., 39.
Club: Mirzapur C.
MITHRI, 226.
MIYAGAM, 108.
MOGUL SARAI (R.), 39.
MOHAL, 298.
Mohpani, 35.
MOHUN, D.B., 248.
MOKAMEH (R.), 50.
MONARPUR, '78.
MONTGOMERY (R.), D.B.,
214.
Montpezir Caves, 22.
MOOLTAN, 214.
R. and W. R., D.B. 1}
n1. N. of sta. There are a
few Tica Gharris; and Tum
Tums of a somewhat rough
kind are always available
at a cheap rate.
Moon Plains, 409.
MORADABAD, 230.
D.B. It in. N. of rly. sta.;
accommodation at rly. sta.
on application to station-
_ master.
Hotel: Imperial H.
M orar, 92.
MORATUWA, 414.
MORTAKKA, D.B., 78.
Starting-place for Unkarj i.
MOUNT ABU, 118.
Good Refreshment and
Waiting Rooms at Abu Road
Sta. 14 in. from Mt. Abu.
D.B. on the hill.
Hotel: Rajputana H.
Bazaar for English
stores.
Club: Rajputana 0.
MOUNT LAVINIA, 414.
Hotel: Grand H.,
' rate accommodation.
Mugut Khan Hubli, 320.
first-


INDEX AND DIRECTORY
437


Mundal, D.B., 249.
Muniseram, 417.
MUNMAR (R.), D.B., 31.
Markurti Peak, 881.
MURREE, 209.
Hotels: Powell's and Row-
bu'ry’s H. best, Mellor’s H.,
Imperial H., Gerard's H.,
Viewforth H.,
Club : M urree C.
Dak Bearer Service. Tra-
vellers by Palki Dak, who
are unable to make their
own arrangements for post-
ing bearers, will, if possible,
be furnished with Daks on
application to the magis-
trate of the district, from
whom also they will obtain
all requisite information as
to estimated distances be-
tween known stations, to
which Dak Bearers can be
posted by any magistrate.
MURSHEDABAD, 256.
M ushobra, 190.
MUSSOORIE, 248.
Hotels : Charlevllle H.
very good, Hampton Court
H .,TivertonH . (both inMall),
Himalaya H., Mussoo'rie H.
(Manager, 0. Willard) near
Club and P.O., Woodv'ille H.,
Oriental H., Zephyr Lodge
H ., Kenilworth Lodge H.
MUTTRA, D.B., 180.
Mutwal, 405.
MYEMSIN G (R. ), 268.
mesons, D.B.
jl‘gotels': Gordon. H., Royal
near Jail,
N
NAGPUR, D. B. (Waiting
Room at rly. sta.), 74.
Club, good.
Bengal and Nagpur Rly. :
Although the line is open
for through traffic, the trains
do not, as yet, run at rapid
rates, and no time would be
saved in following this route
to Calcutta, rather than the
old route, 'via Allahabad.
Passengers by the B. and N.
Rly. are warned to take a
lunch basket and provisions
with them, as the refresh-
ment arrangements along
the line are incomplete, and
the trains neither stop
sufficiently long at stations,
nor at convenient heurs,
for meals.
Nainghat, D. B. , 249.
NAINI (R.), 36.
Hotel.
NAINI TAL, 245.
D.B. rather less than 5 m.
from 8. end of the lake.
Hotels: Douglas Dale H.,
Reynolds' H., Albion H., and
Harris H., on the Mall N. of
the lake; Langham H., S.
Mall; Hill’s H., near RC.
and Club; Murray’s H.
Club: Naini Tal 0., near
St. J ohn’s Church.
Shop: Morrison’s (Euro-
pean goods).
From Kathgodam to
Naini Tal Brewery by tonga
daily, 3 rs. 8 as. Dandies,
ponies, and coolies are al-
ways available at Brewery,
where there are also R. and
sleeping accommodation.
NALANDE, RH. good, 417.
NALHATI, 256.
NALWAR, 300.
NAMBAPANE, R.H., 413.
NANDGAON, 31.
D.B. (R.), and Waiting
Rooms.
NANDIDRUG HILL -FORT,
371.
Hotel, managed by pro-
prietor of Cubbon H., Ban-
galore.
NANDYAL, 351.
Nanrgpoh, D.B., 266.
Nanjangud, 377.
NANUOYA, 409.
NARAINGANJ, D.B., 267.
NARAKAL, 362.
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. Co., Aspinwall and
Co.
Nari, 227.
NARKANDA, 190.
D.B. Six rooms, splendid
view of snowy range.
Narmah, 229.
NASAK FRONTIER, 227.
NASIK ROAD, 28.
D.B. and Waiting Rooms.
Capital Tongas on hire.

Tramway to City 5 in.
distant.
Mission: C.M.S. sta. (at
Sharanpore), see p. 29.
NASINA (R.), 230.
NAT'I'ORE (R.), D.B., 262.
Naula, 417.
NAUSAR, 124.
NAWANAGAR, 163.
Naya Bungalow, D.B. , 266.
NEEM'UCH (R.), 82.
D.B. Good Club, with
cricket ground, etc., at-
tached.
NEGAPATAM (R.), 389.
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. Co., weekly service
to coast ports.
NEGOMBO, H.E. excellent,
practically an hotel, 417.
NELLORE, 301.
D.B. good, with servant
and crockery.
NERAL (R.), 285.
Very good Waiting
Room, with Baths, etc. at
rly. sta.
Nerb'udda River, 78.
Nig'riting, 266.
N ilgi'ri Hills, 382.
NOWSHERA, 212.
D.B. near Post Office.
NUSSEERABAD, 86, 124.
D.B. 1 m. from rly. sta.
NUWARA ELIYA, 409.
Hotels: Grand H. and
Criterion H., both indif-
- fercnt, better accommoda-
tion at the club.
Club : a comfortable
bungalow. Strangers, pro-
perly introduced, are ad-
mitted as hon. members.
Sec., Mr. Wickwar.
Golf Club.
O.
OODEYPUR, D.B., 85.
OOTACAM'UND, 380.
Hotels: Sylk’s H., Wood-
side H., Farlngton H.
Club: Ootacamund C.
ORAI (R.), D.B., 91.
ORCHHA, 102.


438
INDEX AND DIRECTORY

P.
PABBI, 212.
Pachbadra, 120.
PACHMARI, D.B., 35.
Hotel: Pachmari H.
Military Convalescent
Depot.
PACHORA, D.B., 31.
Pa]; Pattan, 214.
PALABADDALA, good ac-
commodation and water,
412.
PALAMCOTTA, 398.
Missions: C. M. S. Training
Institution; Schools; Sarah
Tucker Institution; Tamil
Mission Church.
PALAMPODDARU,
422.
PALANPUR (3.), D.B., 118.
PALITANA, 151.
D.B.: Doolies can be ob-
tained either privately or
through the officers of the
Palitana Darbar. Charges,
6 an. to 2 rs.
PALLAI, R.H., 421.
PALLEGAMA, 410.
PALNI HILLS, 394.
See Ammayanayakanur.
PALUTUPANB, R.H., 416.
PANADURA, 3.H. good and
well situated, 414.
Panchganni, 313.
PANDHARPUR, 298.
PANDUAH, 261.
Panhala H ill-Fort, 318.
PANIKKANKULAM, 3.H. ,
420.
PANIPUT, 185.
D.B. tolerable.
PANKULAM, R.H., 417.
Papanasham, 398.
Parahat, 78.
Parasgad, 321.
Parasnalh Mountain, 50.
PARBATI, 295.
PARBATIPUR (a), 262.
PASSARA, R.H., 409.
PATAL PANI, so.
PATAN, 118.
Patn n Somnath, 159
R.H.,

PATHANKOT (a), D.B.,-197.
Patiala, 164.
PATNA, 4s.
PATRI, D.B., 150.
Pattadakal, 335.
Pawangadh H ill-Fort, 318.
Pawangarh, 109.
PELMADULLA, R.H., 413.
Peontree, 249.
PERADENIYA, 407.
PESHAWAR, D.B., 212.
Hotel.
Missions: see p. 212.
Petlad, 110.
PHAGU, 190.
D.B., grand view.
Phallut, 264.
Philibheet, D.B., 230.
PHULERA (3.) 124.
Pillaiyan Ko'vil, 399.
Pind Dadan Khan, 207.
Pindri Glacier, 246.
PIPARIA, 35.
D.B. Notice should be
sent to ensure meals being
provided. Country carts
available for luggage. Ton-
gas available by writing to
Mail Contractor.
Pirana Monastery, 117.
Plassey, 258.
PODANU3 (3.), 378.
Excellent sleeping accom-
modation at the rly. sta.
POLGAHAWELA, 406.
POLLONARUA, 422.
The Govt. Bungalow on
the Bund does duty as the
R.H., and is comfortable.
PONDICHERRY, 385.
Hotels and D.B.
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. Co. ; Messageries
Maritimes, Gallois Mont-
brun ; Messageries Mari-
timcs, M. Coreil.
POONA, 292.
Hotels: Club H., Napier
H., Poona H.
Clubs: Western India 0.,
between Ordnance Lines and
Woodhouse Road sta., very
good. Strangers, properly
introduced, are admitted.
Contains billiard rooms, a
good racquet court, and a
ew bedrooms for resident
members.
The Boat Club forms an

important feature in the
amusements of the place.
Gymkhana Club and Library.
A visitor, introduced by a
member, can join the Club.
On the cricket-ground,
attached, are played the
principal matches during
the monsoon months.
Golf Club : good links.
Mail Contractor : A rde-
shir Framjec, Civil Lines.
Milliner and Dress-
maker: Miss Watson.
Bank : Bombay
(Branch).
Missions: see p. 293.
C.M.S. sta. (Mission House
at Cyprus Lodge), Divinity
School.
PORADAHA, 262, 267.
PORBANDAR, D.B., 162.
PORTO NOVO, 3st.
Pratabgarh H ill-Fort, 314.
Parandhar, 297. '
Ba nk
PURI (J agannath), 270.
D.B. } m. from landing-
place.
PURULIA, 78.
Pushkar Lake, 124.
PUSSELLA, 3.H. good,
beautifully situated, 412.
PUTTALAM, 3.H. indiffer-
ent, 417.
Q.
QUETTA (3.), 228.
D.B. Hotel: Lansdowne H.
A new line is in contem-
ilation, either by the Zhob
alley, or via Mushkhat.
Club: Quetta C.
V 3.
Rackwane, 413.
3AEWIND (3.), 214.
RAICHUR (3.), D.B., 300.
Raigarh, 77, 296.
RAIPUR, D.B., 76.
wow, 162..
D.B. facing the race-
course.
RAJ M AHAL, 258.
RAJPORE, D.B., 248.
Hotels: Prince of Wales's
H., New H. Victoria H.






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4 AD VERTISE'M EN TS.
s. w. SILVER & 00:3
AIR-TIGHT BOXES
STEAMER TRUNKS
FOR INDIA.


“We had a very bad assage out, and most of my things were
ruined, except those t at were packed in the Air-Tight Tin
Boxes supplied by your firm; being in the Captain’s cabin, two
panels of which were carried away, they were floating about for some hours
in two feet of water.
“A. BRASSEY,
“ Sunbeam, R.Y.S."
“ My introduction to African soil was by being pitched out of the boat
luggage and all, into the middle of the surf beating upon the shore.
Fortunately, I had one of S. W. Silver 8: Co.’s Patent Tin
Boxes, which saved my papers. Everything else was dripping wet
when rescued, and I myself was picked up in the condition of ahalf-drowned
rat.
“MELTON PRIOR.”
(Illustrated London News.)
Special Outfit Lists for India, Australia, Africa, .00., may be consulted
at Sun Court; 67, Cornhill ,- and 29, Old Bond Street.

Ladies' Department - 29, OLD BOND STREET, W.
DECK CHAIRS, REGULATION CABIN AND AIR-TIGHT TRUNKS.
(Clothing for warioue olimates.
S. W. SILVER & (30.,
Sun Court ; 67, Cornhill; and 29, Old Bond Street,
, LONDON.


M URRAY'S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS—(conlinued).

HANDBOOK—LANCASHIRE—WARRINGTON, Bunv, MANCHESTER, LIVER-
POOL, Bunstv, CLI'I-IIsaor; Bouron, BLACKBURN, WIGAN, Pnrs'ros, Rocnnsuz,
Lancns'rnn, Sournron'r, BLACKPOOL, rho. Map. Post 8vo. 6s.
HANDBOOK—YORKSIIIRE—Doxcasrnn, HULL, SnLnY, stnnLEY, SCAR-
nououon, WIIIrsY,H.1nnocs'ra, Biron, LEEDS, WAKEFIELD, BRADFORD, HALIFAX,
HUDD‘ERSI-‘IELD, SHEFFIELD, CRAVEN 11x11 Tue CAVES, \VESSLEYDALE. Maps and
Plans. Post 8vo. 12:.
HANDBOOK — LINCOLNSHIRE — GRANTI-IAM, LINCOLN, STAMFORD,
SLEAFORD, SmLDIxo, GAINSBOROUGH, GRHISBY, Bosros'. Maps and Plans.
Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. .
HANDBOOK—DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND—NEWCASTLB, DAR-
LINGTON, BISIIoP ACOKLAND, S'rocx'ron, HARTLEPOOL, SUNDERLAND, SnInLns,
Bnvacx, Tvxmiou'ru, ALNWICK. Maps and Plum. Post 8vo. 108.
IIANDBOOK—WESTMORLAND AND CUMBERLAND—LANCASTER, FUR—
m;ss ABBEY, AMBLESIDE, KENDAL, WIND‘ERIIERE, Cons-ran, Ksswmx, GRASXIRE,
UmwsrsmCanLIsLa, Cocnenuouru, PENRITH,APPLBBY. Maps. Postsvo. 6s.
SCOTLAND. .
HANDBOOK—SCOTLANDéEnINBvReII, MELROSE, Annorsronn, GLASGOW,
DUMFPlI-‘S, GALLOWAY, Ava, S'rmuno, AREAN; THE CLYDE, OBAN, lnvsannv,
Loon Lononn, Locn KATRINE nu: Tnossons, Cannons): CANAL, Invnaulss,
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IRELAND.
HANDBOOK—IRELAND—DUIILIN, BELFAST, DONEGAL, GALWAY, anronn,
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Plans. Post 8vo. 10.1.
- [In Preparation] '
HANDBOOK—HERTS, BEDS, AND HUNTINGDON. Map. Post 8vo.
HANDBOOK—WARWICKSHIRE. Map. Post8vo.
ENGLISH CATHEDRALS.
HANDBOOK —- SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS — WINCHESTER, SALISBURY,
Ezra-rm, WELLs, Rocuesrsn, CANTERBURY, CHICI-IEBTER, AND ST. ALBANS. With
130 Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 36s.
'3 Sr. ALBANS may be had separately. 6:.
HANDBOOK—“EASTERN CATHEDRALS—Oxronn, PETERBOROUGI-I, ELY,
Nonwrcn, 11x0 LINCOLN. With 90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 21s.
HANDBOOK—WESTERN CATHEDRALS—BRISTQL, GLOUCESTER, HERE-
roim, WORCESTER, AND LICIIFIELD. With 50 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16s.
HANDBOOK—NORTHERN CATHEDRALS—Yonn, Rrrox, DURHAM, CAR-
usua, CHESTER, AND MANCHESTER. With 60 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 2 vols. 218.
HANDBOOK—WELSH CATHEDRALS—LLANDAFF, Sr. Dawn's, BANGOR,
AND ST. AsAI-n’s. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15s.
HANDBOOK—ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 10s. 611.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
Ortobcr, 1893.