. THE LIBRARY Wilson Library * | % 2% / - w -- a-- * = THE BRITISH COLONIST IN NORTH AMERICA A GUIDE FOR INTENDING EIIIIGRANTS _ __ .._..-._4_.@-.. .__ ___ _ __ < THE BRITISH COLONIST IN NORTH AMERICA A GUIDE FOR INTENDING EJIIGRA./VTS LONDON SWAN SONNENSCHEIN & CO. PATERNOSTER SQUARE I890 In compliance with current copyright law, the University of Minnesota Bindery produced this facsimile on permanent-durable paper to replace the irreparably deteriorated original volume owned by Minneapolis Public Library. 1992 iT#".sJ P RE FA C E. •oca SXQaxo- MANY of the descriptive pamphlets concerning portions of North America, in which colonization is desired, give exaggerated accounts of the resources of the country, which in some cases are artistically misrepresented. It is, perhaps, hardly to be expected that persons interested in attracting immigration, will set before their readers the many drawbacks they may have to encounter. In other cases persons who have not been long in the country, and are enthusiastic about the novelties of their surroundings, are likely to form erroneous impressions, and thus mislead their friends. . . . . With no personal interests whatever to serve, and much practical experi- ence, the present writer has collected information on various subjects which may prove useful to persons in- tending to emigrate from the old country—and assist in guiding them to the choice of a destination. THE AUTHOR. 648.360 C O N T E N T S. CHAP. INTRODUCTION - - - - I. BRITISH COLUMBIA - - - II. MANITOBA - - - - III. WASHINGTON STATE, WESTERN DIVISION IV. CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON V. OREGON - - - - VI. CALIFORNIA - - - - VII. LOWER CALIFORNIA :- - - VIII. NEW MEXICO - - - - IX. TEXAS - - • • - X. NORTH CAROLINA - - • Io3 I I9 I37 I62 2 I9 228 25 I 279 THE BRITISH COLONIST. IN T R O DUCT OR Y. CON TENTS. SUPERIOR Advantages of the Dominion of Canada, 2–Prejudice against Englishmen in the States, 3–American Newspapers, 3–Education in the Dominion and the United States, 4–Government Lands in the States, 4–Indians, 4–Attractions of the Western States, 5– Social Intercourse, 5–Domestic Servants, 5–An American's View of the British Farmer, 6–Depression of Agriculture in the States, 7—Agriculture in New Jersey, 8–In Nebraska, 9–Condition of Farmers in Dakota and Kansas, 9–Farm Mortgages, 10–Con- dition of Farmers in the Dominion, 11—The Causes of Agricultura Depression in the States, 11—The Landlords of the States, 11– The Superior “Knack” and Enterprise of the American Farmer, 12–His Style of Living, 13—The Middle-men, 13—Expense of the Necessaries of Life, 13—Bill Nye on the Situation, 14—Affairs in Dakota, 14–In Wisconsin, 14–In New Hampshire, 14–In Michigan, 15–Contrast with the Dominion, 15–The Stock Ranges in the States, 15—Destruction of Timber, 15–The Possibilities of One Acre, 16–Outlook for Agriculturists, 16–The Professiona Ranks in the States, 17—Value of Money, 17—Farming Imple- ments, 17—The Real Estate Business, 18–Peculiar Methods in the Business, 18–Effects of the “Boom” in California and Kansas, 20– A System of Irrigation, 20–Considerations of Climate, 21–Malarial Districts in the States, 21—Alien Landholders, 22—Investments, 23 –Sharpers, 23—Expenses of Litigation, 24–Legal Procedure, 24– Aliens may Appeal, 24–Settlers' Effects, 24–Rates of Freight, 25– A. 2 THE BAIT/SAT COLOAVIST. The Baggage-smasher, 25–New York Cabmen, 26–Economy, 26– Railway Tickets, 23–Trials of Second-Class Passengers, 23– Sharpers, 27–Transfer of Baggage, 27–Conveyance of Money, 27– Bank Drafts and Deposits, 27–Maps, 28–Routes to the Pacific Coast, 28–Colonists’ Cars, 29–The Car Stove, 29—Expenses en route, 30–The Book Peddler, 30–Canadian Pacific Railway, 31– Chicago Limited Express, 31–Florida Limited Express, 31—Rail- way Fare, 33—Fastest Time to Pacific Coast, 33—Transcontinental Passenger Rules, 34–Second-Class Cars, 34–Canadian Pacific Passenger Rates, 34—Distances (Transcontinental), 34–Snow Blockades, 35—Train Robbers, 36. IN selecting any part of North America as a permanent residence, the British emigrant, who is not infected with Republicanism, will give weight to the superior social ad- vantages the Dominion of Canada offers. There are a few chronic revolutionists in the Dominion, who, backed up by the “American Press,” attempt to foster disloyalty to the British flag and the Canadian Constitution; but they are a mere unit in the population, and worthy of little attention. In the Dominion, the British settler will have the advantages of living under his own flag, and amongst his own countrymen. Law and order pre- vail everywhere, and he will enjoy a sense of security, both of life and property, which he may fail to realise in some parts of the United States, where respect for the law is only nominal, men's passions unrestrained, and acts of violence of frequent occurrence. In many of the States he will have to renounce his allegiance in order to purchase and hold property. He will find the judi- cature of the country, in many instances, in the hands of most unworthy persons elected from the dregs of society by political party influence; and malfeasance in office is of frequent occurrence. Many American newspapers INTRODUCTORY. 3 seem to make a business of collecting, distorting, and exaggerating scandals and defamatory articles concerning Englishmen and England, and thus create a prejudice against them in the minds of a large class of Americans, who are educated by the press. Offences committed by impostors in the disguise of Englishmen of rank are widely heralded and commented upon by newspapers in the United States as evidence of the depravity of the English upper classes. Aparagraph has recently appeared alleg- ing that a Scotch nobleman, one Sir Francis Austin, has, by brutal treatment, driven his wife to seek refuge in this country. Although the leading Philadelphia paper an- nounces that there is no such person as a “ Sir Francis Austin,” this report will be eagerly seized upon by news- papers, and will not be contradicted by the majority of them. The correspondence and opinions of the most scurrilous English radicals are invited and disseminated, and it is no wonder that Americans, who are not well - educated and have not travelled out of their own country, and derive their information solely from their news- papers, regard with ill-feeling English gentlemen who come amongst them. Persons, who have no conception of the character and deportment of a gentleman, seem to be easily duped by the swaggering snobs, who so often impose themselves upon the people as English gentlemen. American newspapers are also, in a great measure, re- sponsible for the low tone of social and political morality existing in the country by the fiippant, and often vulgar, manner in which they present the records of civil and criminal offences, by an irreverent manner of discussing sacred subjects, and by the vulgar personalities which so often accompany their censure of political opponents. 4 THE BRITISH COLONIST. The corruption and corruptibility of public oflicers is a sad exhibition of the worst side of Republicanism, and the British emigrant will soon realise that the free institu- tions of this great Republic are not an unmixed blessing. In comparing the advantages of the Dominion with those of the United States, education in the former, in rural districts, is much superior. There are schools everywhere in the United States, but the teachers are, as a rule, persons of very superficial education themselves, and beyond arithmetic, and orthography, and history of the United States, little is taught; and bad manners are acquired by association with ungoverned children. There is a large area of fertile land at once available for culti- vation in the Dominion, but in the United States, there is such a rush for Government lands of desirable quality, from time to time thrown open, and so much trickery, and even violence to be encountered in the selection, that it is very doubtful if a stranger will succeed in obtaining any. He would, probably, find some other person putting in a claim, and perhaps his life threatened, if he persisted in maintaining his position. Men go on to the Indian Reservations, ceded to‘the United'States, before they are actually opened to settlement, and although the law will not sustain their selections, that may not save a legal claimant from the persecution of those dispossessed. Nothing of this kind will be experienced in the Dom- inion ; and it is extremely improbable that any further trouble will be experienced in the North West Territory from an Indian or Half-Breed outbreak, after the les~ son they have received ; and the Canadian mounted police keep admirable order throughout the country. N 0 trouble on account of Indians, however, is to be IIVTKODUCTORY. 5 . feared, now, in the Western United States ; and so many eastern farmers have settled in the far west, of late, that social advantages have very much improved, and are steadily improving, and the vast region west of the great chains of mountains to the Pacific Ocean, with its splendid climates, and wonderful resources, offers a most tempting field for the emigrant and colonist who is will- ing to adapt himself to the ways of the country and of such society as may be available. In the case of men, or families, who have been accustomed to the refinements and luxuries of English life, the amenities of social inter- course will much depend upon their own good judgment and forbearance. They must not expect to find Ameri- can families of culture and refinement in rural districts of the west, and any marked disinclination to associate with their neighbours, or criticisms of their ways, or the state of the country, will be resented. The people will expect them to find everything superior to what they enjoyed in their own country, and it must be remembered that Americans are peculiarly sensitive to criticism, and do not tolerate any semblance of superiority. Domestic servants, or “ helps,” as they must be called, and labourers in the west, and in rural districts, expect to be received at the family table and treated as members of the family; otherwise they will not work for those denying these privileges ; and domestics brought from the old countries ‘will be subjected to influences tending to alienate them from their allegiance, or, in the case of eligible females, they will soon be induced to marry and leave. Domestic servants are very hard to obtain, and families should learn to do their own work: but where Chinamen can be obtained, on the Pacific coast, they do very well. 6 THE BA/T/SAT COLOAV/ST. Families emigrating, who desire the service of domestics, can bring out elderly persons of unattractive appearance with tolerable success. Before the State Board of Agriculture of Pennsyl- vania in 1879, Dr. John P. Edge, a member, made the following statement:—“Great Britain shows that she has got so far beyond the possibility of feeding her millions, that she takes products of our soil to the value of 400,000,000 dollars annually and returns us only 98,000,000 dollars in fabrics, and the balance in cash. The widest difference between the foreign and American farmer is in the methods of tillage. “We depend on machinery to perfect and harvest our crops. With a span of horses and one man, our average farmers of one hundred acres will do all the year's work, except threshing and harvesting. He has ample barns; his buildings are centrally located to cover all the ad- vantages of water, drainage, &c.; his house, if not pre- tentious, has the appearance of comfort and solidity. Everything about gives you the impression that the occupant lives at home. “In great Britain and on the Continent it is different —all the surroundings speak of age and pinch. The farmer is a peasant; his home a cottage, generally straw or tile covered, low, damp, and cave-like. You see no large waggon houses filled with mowers and reapers. His barn is a shed, often connecting with the dwelling and under the same roof; his harvest in stacks; his domestic animals a part of his family, the stable often serving as a sleeping apartment for both. Everything is primitive, and the entire living suggests the renter, who is in reality, loaded down with rents and 8 THE BR] TISH C01. ONIST. . confronted by two alternatives—either to let another and wiser nation feed us, or so to husband our own re- sources, that the emergency may be met and overcome from within.” “ The rise in land values, with consequent increase of taxes, and of interest on invested capital, coupled with the decreased amount and value of the product, is now rendering it extremely difiicult for farmers in the older sections to secure an adequate return for the employment of their capital and labour. The statistical agent of the Agricultural Department reported the average income for farmers in the State of New York, for 1886, as being only three-and-one-half per cent. on their invested capital; and this without any allowance for the value of their own time and labour. At that rate, the more land a man has, the worse he is off; and as methods of cultivation which will tend to better this condition are well-nigh impossible, or at least impracticable on large areas, and under existing manage- ment, we find, consequently, a growing tendency toward the subdivision of agricultural holdings.” One out of every twenty farmers in the State of New York is hopelessly in debt, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific this evil prevails to a greater or less extent. In New Jersey, with the advantages of rich soil, in many places underlaid with marl, and the finest markets in the country close at hand, the farmers complain that they cannot obtain an adequate return for their money, and in some cases find it difiicultto make even a living. It is true that the past season has been most unfavour- able, but the financial condition of the farmers must be bad to be so affected by one bad season. 11V TR OD UC T OR’ Y . 9 . They attribute their difiiculties to the exactions of commission-men, and the exorbitant local rates of freight, and especially the competition of California producers, The transcontinental rates are so low, owing to the great competition of Railway Companies, that it is difiicult to see how any profit can be made, on these rates, and local rates are, therefore, made to counteract the trans- continental. Wherever there is no competition, and combinations have been made by Railroad Companies, the farmer is mercilessly overcharged. The Governor of the State of Nebraska, in an appeal to the “Trans-Missouri Traffic Association,” says that millions of bushels of corn are lying on the ground, going to waste, in that State; and that the farmers who raised it are unable to get it to market on account of high rates. The farmers are unable to pay for provisions and coal, and cannot meet their engagements in conse- quence. They are burning this corn in place of other fuel. Local business is almost paralysed, and a most gloomy prospect for the opening of spring is before them. Affairs in Kansas are in a very bad way also, and much distress exists in agricultural districts. Governor Miller of North Dakota says, “There is more destitution amongst the people than ever before known in the history of the country.” In South Dakota there is great distress and destitution amongst the farmers. There is no pessimism in this presentation of the con- dition of the majority of farmers in the United States, but, in striking contrast with this, is the present status of the educated, practical, and theoretical agriculturists, whose fine farms in many of the Eastern and Middle States, skilfully managed, still continue to pay a fair, fo THE BA/7/SH COLOAW/ST. and, in some cases, a handsome dividend on the invest- ment. It is, however, now more than ever necessary that an agriculturist should have ample and even surplus capital for a given area, as well as a thorough knowledge of the business connected with it. One of the greatest evils of insufficient capital is shown in the inability of the poor farmer in the West to buy stock to feed his produce to, and thus everything is taken out of his land, and a mere nominal price paid for the produce. The Ohio Commissioner of Labour reports upon Farm Mortgages as follows:– AMOUNT OF FARM MORTGAGES CARRIED BY VARIOUS STATES. OHIO, . • • • • $701,000,000 INDIANA, • • • • 398,000,000 ILLINOIs, • • - • 620,000,000 WISCONSIN, • • • • 250,000,000 MICHIGAN, • • • • 350,000,000 IowA, . - - - • 175,000,000 NEBRASKA, • - • • 351,000,000 MISSOURI, - • - • 237,000,000 KANSAS, • • • • 203,000,000 - $3,425,000,000 The census of 1880 showed the value of the farms in these States to be 5,107,040,003 dols.; they are worth less now than at that time, so we have ten of the most fertile States in the Union being mortgaged for more than two-thirds their value. The estimated total mortgage indebtedness of the farmers in the United States amounts to the enormous sum of 9,000,000,000 of dollars. The greater portion of A/TRODUCTORY tf this sum has been spent, not on improvements, but to enable the farmers to live. Mr. Cleveland, in his message to Congress, said, referring to the farmers: “Their lands are declining in value, while their debts increase.” Turning to the Dominion of Canada, we find in the Province of Ontario, according to official returns, that the increase in the area of cultivated lands from '83 to '86 was 1.4 per cent, while that of their value was 1.7 per cent, it thus appearing that the value of farm property has increased more rapidly than its area. The condition of farmers in the United States, as shown by Mr. Reeve's statements, is only too true. It then appears, that in spite of the great resources of this magnificent country, of the superiority of its institutions, of American “knack” and enterprise, the American farmer is considerably worse off than the English or Canadian farmer. The protective tariff, and the exac- tions of monopolies, trusts, and middle-men bear hardly on the American farmer; but, apart from these evils, the causes of the present agricultural depression are: The reckless and exhausting system of farming so long pur- sued, leaving vast areas of once fruitful lands in a state of depletion; an aggregate production in excess of the home and foreign demands; extravagance in machinery; farming with insufficient capital, and general mis- management, and improvidence. Men attempting to farm large tracts of land with small capital, must borrow money, at from eight, to even 15 per cent. A bad season ensues, and with it financial embarrassment, and they become “tenants at will” of the mortgagees. The money-lenders are now the landlords of America, and their tenants are barely able to make a living, lz THE BRITISH COLOJVIST. and pay the high rates of interest on their indebted- ness. This state of things under a monarchical form of government would be intolerable; but the American farmer, in the enjoyment of the free Institutions of a Republic, thinks his condition, bad as it is, very superior to that of the down-trodden tenants of an Irish or English landlord, who would, however, be happy with a five per cent. dividend' on his investment. The news- papers, and the farmer seldom reads anything else, con- stantly remind him of the superiority of his works and the attributes of his life over those of foreignersi and he looks down on them and their methods ; but perhaps now, at the eleventh hour, he is beginning to think he may not have quite a monopoly of the wisdom of the world. Thousands of tons of straw, which should be converted into manure, are annually burnt, and often where the attempt is made, the nutritive qualities are dissipated by improper management. Expensive machinery, bought on credit, ‘is often left out in all kinds of weather. Stock is badly housed and impro- perly fed, and there is slovenlinessand untidiness every- where. When the land will no longer yield a fair crop, the farmer goes farther west if he can, only to repeat the same process, with the “ knack” of being foremost in every undertaking. As for the “pluck” and enter- rise Mr. Reeve refers to, one cannot recognise “burning _ O D one’s candle at both ends ” as “ pluck,” or covering the country with exhausted farms, as enterprise to be ad- mired. For years the leading agricultural journals, and the “Reports of the Agricultural Societies,” have been showing him the errors of his methods of farming, but IIVTRODUCTORV. I3 the average American farmer has a contempt for “book- farming,” as he calls it. “He is a practical man,” and does not want any theories on farming. He said, “ that the land was ‘too fat,’ and did not want manure.” Well! his fat is in the fire now, and he will have some trouble in getting out of his present difiiculties. ' It might be supposed that the American farmer is liberal and luxurious in his style of living, even to ex- travagance. This is very far from being the case as a rule. His clothing is of the coarsest and cheapest kind, chiefly cotton. He drives to market in a rough farm-waggon with plough horses. He is out of bed at daylight in summer, and lamp-light in winter. His food consists principally of fat bacon, hot bread, the common vegetables, and the inevitable pie, with cheap Rio coffee. Occasionally fresh meat is obtained, which is either cut in thin slices and fried in fat, or into lumps, and boiled till all the juices are extracted, which are thrown away _in the water. He has fruit, dried, or pre- served, and molasses, with hot batter cakes. The cook- ing is generally abominable, and he may look forward to a toothless and dyspeptic old age. The middle-men, including machinery, insurance, and a variety of other agents, and the commission-men, who live on the pro- ceeds of his labour, live well, dress well, smoke cigars, and drive about in “buggies.” All good articles of clothing, furniture, and other furnishing material, are so expensive that they are beyond the reach of the farmer, and he must confine himself to the plainest and cheapest kinds, for which, however, he pays a price which would buy him good ones in the old countries, and in which goods of American manufacture are sold at least thirty 14 THE BRITISH COLONIST. per cent. less than he pays for them. So much for “pro- tection,” as far as the farmer is concerned. Bill Nye, the humorist, says: “Ten of the Western States have got about 3,500,000,000 dollars of mortgages on their farms, and that don’t cover the chattel mortgages, filed with town clerks on farm machinery, stock, waggons, and even crops, ‘by gosh!’ that ain’t two inches high under the snow. That’s what the prospect is for farmers now. The Government is rich, but the men that made it, the men that fought p€7‘LiI:'T'I:€ fires, and pe.rriirie wolves, and Iuns, and potatoe bugs, and blizzards, and have paid the debt, and pensions, and everything else, are left high and dry this cold winter, with a mortgage of 7,500,000,000 dollars on their farms.” An American, writing in Bradstreets, says : “ The apparent prosperity of Dakota is based upon the expenditure of the capital procured by mortgaging the farm lands. The farmers . are spending their farms ; mortgages are at 8 to 10 per cent., and the impoverished‘ farmers have to pay an additional 10 per cent. on renewals, so that the interest is really 11 or 12 per cent.” Professor Henry, in Wis- consin, said ; “ One of the richest prairies in the United States is that of the St. Croix valley. To-day the richest part of it is almost without fences ; the majority of the farm buildings, especially the barns, are poor, and the people complain bitterly of hard times.” The New York Post recently called attention to the fact that one of its correspondents eounted—in a drive on the main road from Lowell, Mass, to Windham, New Hampshire, (a distance of 12 miles)—six deserted sets of farm build- ings, besides several which had already gone to ruin; while fields and pastures were growing up to wood. INTRODUCTORY. I5 The Bureau of Labour of Michigan reports that dur- ing the year ending June 30th, 1887, there were 1,667 foreclosures and 244 sales by levy of execution on farm property, or nearly four times more than in Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island taken together ;- the total population of Michigan being 300,000 less than that of Ontario alone, and the value of farms being about 230,000,000 dols. less than those of Ontario (vide report of Dominion Statistician of Agri- cultural Department). In some of the older sections of the United States large areas have been abandoned, being no longer capable of producing a paying crop; while in a large section of Ionia, a choice portion of the fertile West, the corn crop has declined in twenty-five years from 40 to 22 bushels per acre. Mr. Reeve re- marks “that the restoration of these depleted lands is beyond the capacity of the ordinary farmer.” If we turn to the great pasture regions of the West, we find that similar improvident methods have been pursued by the stockmen; large heads of cattle and sheep with inadequate or no provision for winter, re- sulting in heavy losses and in an impoverished and degenerated progeny, and the utter destruction of the pasturage by over-crowding. Looking at the timber resources of the country, we find that thousands of acres are annually destroyed by fires, and everywhere a reck- less waste is observed. In the present state of the markets, the attempt to restore and place in a remun- erative condition depleted farms, will be attended with difficulty, but the educated agriculturist will find methods of doing this, and succeed, when the nature of the soil permits, and with the advantages of a rapidly I6 THE BRITISH COLONIST. increasing population and an increased demand for superior productions. The British farmer who is at least making a living and in-the enjoyment of the comforts of English home life may go further and fare worse. But for those who decide to emigrate, and find superior attractions in this country, the outlook for agriculturists is not quite so gloomy as it might seem. Mr. Reeve says: “Few men realise the possibilities of an acre of ground. The bare statement that it contains 43,560 square feet, con- veys little meaning. It is not dilficult to grow upon an individual foot of that surface, a product of flowers, plants, vegetables,lor small fruits, that is worth five cents. This ratio applied to the entire acre would give a product to the value of 2178 dollars. This result has actually been accomplished.” . Unfortunately, however, there is not room for more than a comparatively limited number of market- gardeners, and it is a profession that requires special training, and is rather overdone in the eastern and middle States. But in the West, in the vicinity of grow- ing cities, destined tc be manufacturing centres, the intelligent management of even a few acres will, at least, support a family. It is estimated that it requires a capital of at least 300 dols. an_acre to manage a market-garden, and the work is hard and constant. There is a growing demand for a superior quality of fruit, and vegetables, and meat. Farms can be bought in favourable situations, which can be made to pay a dividend on the investment, by skilful management, where others have failed. In this country, as in Europe, all grades of “professions ” are greatly overcrowded? AVTRODUCTOA' V. 17 much more so, in fact. There are not patients enough for half the doctors, nor clients enough for half the lawyers, nor churches enough for one-fifth the preachers. Young men crowd into the cities in search of employ- ment, and there is a large surplus of book-keepers, clerks and others, seeking an entry into commercial life. In the West, storekeepers of all denominations rush to any point at which the tide of emigration flows, and business competition is keen—and there are more stores than there is business for. A man without interest and special qualifications, will have much difficulty in procur- ing employment in cities, and in which his salary would do little more than support him, but skilful mechanics can always find employment. The purchasing power of money is so much greater in England than the States, that a higher rate of wages is absolutely necessary. There has been a general cutting down of wages, how- ever, without a corresponding decrease in the cost of living, so that the clerk or working-man will find him- self little, if anything, better off than at home. With the exception of some of the common necessaries of life, everything is much higher in price, and not so durable as a rule. American goods sold in England are often of a better quality and sold at a lower price than they can be obtained for here. Farming implements, carefully made, are sold for one-third less than the American farmer pays. It is reported that the “Oliver” chilled plough has been sold in Liverpool for seven dollars, but the American farmer pays fourteen. Farming machinery and implements made for exhibi- tion or exportation are carefully constructed, but much of it sold to the farmers here is defective in structure; B is THE BRITISH cor ozvisr. frequent breakages occur by the breaking of castings, or metal of poor quality, and the blacksmith has plenty of work in this way. Many of the waggons, and most of the vehicles called “ buggies,” are very flimsy in structure and are constantly breaking. Americans complain of English manufactured articles being too heavy, solid, and cumbersome; but they cer- tainly go to the other extreme, and make their imple- ments and vehicles too light and weak in structure to wear well, especially when material of the cheapest and most inferior quality is used, as it frequently is. The settler should learn the names of the best makers before purchasing any machinery or implements. As long as manufacturers can sell inferior articles at re- munerative prices, they will not make any change for the better, and the demands have been so enormous that a ready sale has been found for them. One of the great industries of North America is the “~ Real Estate” business. This includes money-lending at usurious interest. The term “Chevalier d’industrie " might be appropriately applied to many of the frater- nity. The people are subject to frequent epidemics of “ real estate craze ” called “ booms.” The last and worst of these fevers invaded Kansas City, and from there extended to Southern California, which it left in a state of collapse, and is now lingering on the North Pacific Coast. The real estate man is very ingenious in his methods of starting this “boom,” one of which is to put a fictitious price on a piece of property sold; for in- stance, a stranger arrives in a town, desiring to invest, say 10,000 dollars; he applies to a real estate man, who promises to look out for a suitable investment, and INTRODUCTORY. 19 . approaches some property holder who, he knows, would sell at a certain price, say 5000 dollars. He tells him he is not asking enough for his property, and offers to get him a much better price, if he will give him half the excess. The agreement being satisfactory, the lot is sold for 10,000 dols., and the news spreads rapidly that property has doubled in value. In other cases fictitious prices are recorded. Property thus bought at a period of inflation is not, in most cases, worth half that is paid for it. Real estate agents have made fortunes in a week. Money poured in on all sides; trains were crammed with passengers seeking investments; the hotels were unable to hold them, and they slept in the passag.s and on the stairways. At San Diego Post Oflice, California, people had to wait their turn in a line extending all across the street for the distribution of mail. Some of them had boxes ‘to sit on, and lunch to eat, to relieve the tedium. Great efforts were made on the part of the International Comp. to extend the boom into Lower California, but with little success; towns and cities were built and laid out, and blocks of building lots sold (on paper), but the reputation of Southern California was too much for Lower California. While the fever lasted, town lots doubled, tripled, quadrupled in value, with a rapidity which took away their owners’ breath, and all persons who had cash or could borrow invested in them. Miles off the cities, on desert land, new towns were laid out, and, headed by bands of music, the people, like sheep led to slaughter, were conducted to the sales of the lots. The Louisville C'0urier Journal, commenting on the result of this craze, says: “ All investors have suffered, home people 20 THE BRITISH C OLONIST. and outside purchasers alike. The majority of the fortunes were lost as suddenly as they were acquired. Few men were able to quit in time. The temptation to make just one more successful deal was too strong to be resisted, and many persons who at one time fancied themselves rich have now nothing but unsaleable lots in a Kansas or California town. This has been a costly lesson to the American people, and its example is not likely to be entirely lost. Booms are hurtful to any town or country, no matter how great its advan- tages or prospects may be. By no process of calcula- tion or reasoning can the real estate of a town be made to be worth two or three times as much as- it was a week before. There is no doubt many parts of the West have been seriously injured by the wild specula- tion in real estate. Banks have failed, land companies have gone into liquidation, farms are sold under the hammer, buildings are left half-finished, and the general condition of financial affairs is most unhappy. Immigra- tion, which is the life blood of New States, has decreased considerably, and many former settlers are returning to their old homes in the East. It is said that the assets of the suspended First National Bank of Abilene, Kansas, consist almost en- tirely of land mortgages, and that its failure was due to the collapse of the great Kansas real estate boom, many pieces of property being mortgaged to it for double their present value. It is proposed that the Government institute an extensive system of irrigation for the purpose of reclaiming millions of acres of land, so far, almost useless. Systems of irrigation by companies have already proved successful, and there can be no doubt IZVTRODUCTORY. 21 _ that an immense area of land can, in this way, be made very productive ; and it is estimated that land that is only worth a dollar now, would be valued at at least ten dollars withirrigation facilities. Climate isof thegreatest importance to the settler; and it is too often ignored in view of other advantages offered him. People who settle in malarial districts, or relaxing climates unsuited to their constitutions, will, if not seriously affected, lose their energy and ability for the vigorous prosecution of their business, and many failures have been noted from this cause. Persons of a bilious temperament should avoid districts in which bilious and malarious fevers are prevalent, and the relaxing climate of the Southern States, or climates with much humidity and great summer heat. Catarrhal-pulmonary and rheumatic affections are very common on the Atlantic coast, and in the vicinity of large lakes in the middle States. In districts having a very dry atmosphere with great altitude, and sudden variations of temperature, muscular rheumatism prevails. In many of the large cities in the Eastern States, such as New York, Philadelphia, Balti- more, Washington, Pittsburg, Harrisburg, and various cities. in New Jersey, and on the Hudson River, the heat in summer is very prostrating, producing sun-' stroke, and great mortality amongst small children. In the Central States, Chicago, St. Louis, Indianapolis, and other towns in their respective States, are subject to ex- cessive heat and its attendant evils. The whole valley of the Missouri, from Council Bluffs to New Orleans, and that of the lower Mississippi is very malarious, and subject to high summer temperature, and this is especi- 22 THE BRITISH COLONIST. ally the case with regard to that portion of the valley below St. Louis ; as also the valleys of the Ohio, Arkansas and White Rivers. All these valleys are sub- ject to inundations, which greatly increase the prevailing malarial fevers, after the waters subside ; and the in- habitants present a jaundiced, melancholy appearance, and take quinine and calomel to excess. All through the flat, swampy lands of Indiana, Illinois, and in many parts of Michigan, fever and ague prevail; also in that portion of Iowa adjacent to the Mississippi River, and in Missouri, along that river and its tributaries. Through- out Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas, and most of Kansas, bilious fever and ague prevail; and in all the lowlands of the Southern States to the east. Congress passed the “Alien Bill,” March 3rd, 1887, which prohibited persons not citizens, or who have not lawfully declared their intention of becoming such, from acquiring, holding, or owning real estate in the territories or the district of_ Columbia, except such as may be ac- quired by inheritance, or in the collection of debts here- tofore created. The following is a list of the States and Territories in which aliens may or may not hold real estate-— STATES IN WHICH ALIENS CAN HOLD LANDS. Alabama, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut,‘ Florida‘, Georgia, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, " Resident aliens may hold lands, and non-resident for receiving only. ‘AWTRODUCTORY 23 North Carolina, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Vermont, Virginia and West Virginia. STATES AND TERRITORIES IN WHICH ALIENS CANNOT HOLD LANDS. Alaska, Arizona, Dakota,” Delaware,” Idaho,” Illinois*# Minnesota: Montana, New Mexico,” New York,” Utah, Wisconsin,t Wyoming, District of Columbia, and Washington. In the purchase of any property, or in any kind of investment, extreme caution is necessary. The country is full of land-sharks on the look-out for tender feet, as newcomers are called; and their ingenuity in methods of deception is remarkable. The county records of property should be examined for mortgages, and the “Deeds” of the property signed by all persons having any sort of claim. A mistake Englishmen make, is paying too much; for the price is nearly always advanced to meet their de- mands. The strictest business methods should be adopted in all financial transactions, and if you allow any one to get “ahead of you,” as it is called, by a smart “Yankee trick,” the odium will fall on you unfortunately. There are no Small Debts Courts, and the expenses of collecting, on “Judgment,” a small sum will amount to * Residents can hold real estate by becoming naturalized. In Illinois there are special provisions about sale within six years. t May hold 320 acres only, unless acquired by inheritance or in collection of debts. tBy inheritance, or in collection of debts. INTRODUCTORY. 25 have been in use 12 months. Any reasonable amount of wearing apparel, obviously for the person's own use, and which has been fitted on or worn by him, can be passed through the Custom House; but anything be- yond this will subject him to much trouble and annoy- ance. All tools or implements of any kind in use, per- taining to a person's profession, are free of duty. For any changes, apply to American Consul at Liverpool or London. Through rates of freight on “household effects” boxed to the Pacific Coast or any terminal point, are about 4-,l~’,;°U dollars per 100 lbs. To the middle States (points on Missouri or Mississippi Rivers), 1}",,1U dollars per 100 lbs. Heavy articles of household effects can be shipped direct to the Pacific Coast, by vessels from Liverpool, at very low rates. Goods sent over American roads should be very care- fully packed, to save breakage as much as possible. Passengers’ baggage, limited to 150 lbs., should be in very strong trunks of medium size. The American “ baggage- smasher” handles passengers’ trunks very roughly, es- pecially if they have a foreign appearance. If they are very heavy he will not lift, but roll and kick them, and if he happens to be in a bad temper, may drop your trunk on one corner. The American baggage-system is, however, nearly perfect, and the “ wreck ” of your baggage with the checks attached is sure to “ turn up” at the end of the journey. Any baovave in excess of DOD 150 lbs. should be boxed—(trunks will not be taken except by Express Company at high rates)—and de- livered to any of the freight oflices in New York, and the charges must be prepaid on all household effects. Q 26 THE BRITISH COLONIST. Cab hire in New York is high, and the hackmen noted for extortion and impudence. It is said that one of these “ worthy men,” while bathing at Long Branch, was suddenly confronted by a shark, which, however, “ blushed ” and left him. The stranger should ask the hotel-clerk to settle for him. Persons desiring to remain any time in New York, for a week or more, in an economical way, can, by looking at the Herald, select a small room in a respect- able house and street for two dols. per week, and get their meals at restaurants at from 40 cents to 75 cents. Street cars and elevated railroads will convey a passenger, with small valise only, to any part of the city, on their routes, for 5 cents. Rates of transfer for baggage to and from any part of the city to points of departure are 50 cents. for a trunk and 40 for a valise. One trunk can be taken on a cab free. Two classes of tickets are issued by the railroad companies, the limited and unlimited. On the former no stop can be made, on the latter, sold at an advanced rate, the passenger can, on informing the conductor, break the journey at any‘ point. This applies to first-class tickets only; but on second-class, or colonist tickets, west of the Missouri River to the Pacific Coast, the privilege of stopping 10 days is accorded, for the purpose of seeing land, or any part of the country. At -“ Kansas City,” Omaha, and St. Paul, tourist sleeping-cars for second-class passengers will be found, but up to these points the journey of the second-class passenger is a most trying one, often in a crowded car in la contaminated atmosphere, alternately oppressed with heat and smothered with dust, and without the privilege of adjourning to a sleeping-car; on a second-class ticket mm 01> UC TOR Y. 27' meals are 75 cents. at the stations with 20 minutes to “bolt” them. Passengers for the Southern States can take steamers from New York to all points on the coast. Transcontinental passengers, when at Chicago, should look out for “ sharpers,” and under no circumstances show their tickets to any but a “ conductor” in uniform, or surrender their baggage-checks to any but authorised express agents, for purpose of transfer, if wishing to stop. Baggage checked through to western points will be transferred free of charge, and cannot, as a rule, be got at until its destination is reached ; but at “ Kansas City,” Omaha, or St. Paul, the baggage-master will permit the passenger, on producing his checks, to open and remove such articles as he may require, and there will be time to lay in a stock of provisions for the journey west. Great care must be taken of the checks, or much trouble will- be encountered in recovering the baggage; and they should never be given up except on its delivery. On arrival at the end of the journey, baggage may be left at baggage department 24 hours without charge. Money should be taken in sufficient quantity for the journey only. Take drafts on a bank in New York, where exchange will be made and “drafts” issued, which are good at any point in the West, on proper i'). Barking crows (C'orr1/s Americmms) arrive. Geese and swans seen. Pelicans and ducks arrive. Saskatchewan thoroughly broken up. Commercial ploughing. A fall of snow to the depth of two feet. (Exceptional.) Planting potatoes. Wheat, sown on the 8th, above ground ; having germi- nated in nine days. Barley, sown on the 14th, above ground; germinating in seven days. Leaves of trees expanding rapidly. Potatoes, planted on the 13th, appeared above ground. From the 23rd to the 30th in this year, temperature in the shade at 2 P..\L, varied from 78° Fahr. to 93° Fahr. Commenced reaping barley. Flocks of water-fowl beginning to arrive from the north. First fall of snow. Large flocks of water-fowl flying south. First hoar-frost. Birch and aspen leaves turning yellow. Snow. Heavy snow. Thunder and lightning. Taking up potatoes. Leaves all off deciduous trees. Thermometer at 2 P.1\I., in shade, 68° F ahr. (unusually high). Water.fowl passing south. Bays of the lake frozen over. Ground frozen hard. Last water-fowl seen. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, &c., can be raised even IIIANITOB.-1. :O! at Fort Liard, lat. 60° 5' north, long. 122° 31' west, but in some years the frost touches the wheat, and prevents the oats ripening. At Dunvegan, on Peace River, in lat. 56° 6’ north, long. 117° 45' west, altitude 778 feet, the cultivation of wheat is attended by uncertain results. In any locality in the vicinity of the mountains, frosts occur and prevent wheat and oats ripening. At Fort Alexandria, on F1-azer’s River, in lat. 52° 30’ north, long. 122° 40’ west, altitude 400 feet, good crops of wheat have been raised with facility, and potatoes of excellent quality at all the places mentioned. At _Fort Norman, ht. 65° north, in some seasons barley ripens well, and potatoes are of good quality, but occasionally nipped by frost. There is some good prairie grouse shooting to be had on the wheat fields in August and September, and, to- wards the end of the former month, ducks in great variety, snipe, and plover arrive from the north, and are found on the lakes, small ponds and marshes everywhere. In the “Riding House” district there are an immense number of ponds and small lakes covered with wild fowl for a short time only, as they go to the “ wheat fields ” and remain in their vicinity for a few weeks until the ice forms, when they go south. In the spring the ducks and geese and other wild fowl arrive from the south, and remain for a short time on their way north. In the autumn ducks and geese, etc., are of delicious flavour, being well nourished on the wheat fields. The “ golden plover ” is found here. They appear in large flocks and frequent fallow lands,especially new breakings, and are of very fine quality, being so fat as to be translucent. Large game is very scarce, so much hunting is done by Indians and half-breeds, and a 102 THE BRITISH COLONIST. long journey into the North and North-West must be made to get any sport. In the woods, the ruffed and willow grouse are found. The wapiti ranges as far north as the east branch of the river of the mountains in 59° north latitude. A small band of buffalo is reported as existing in the north, which will no doubt be protected by the Government. There are some antelope on the prairies, remote from settlements, also bear, moose, goat, and in some very remote and rugged portions of the mountains, big.horn (mountain sheep). A variety of fish exist, bass, pike, carp, white fish and carp, and in the waters of the Saskatchewan two varieties of sturgeon, one a small variety up to 15 lbs. ; the other, called by the Cree Indians ' the Narnéyu, ranges from 90 to 130 lbs. Trout are to be found in the mountain streams west of Calgarry. The game laws are, very properly, being strictly enforced any- where in the country adjacentto settlements. WASHINGTON STATE-WESTERN DIVISION. CONTENTS. GEOGRAPHICAL Outline, 103––Climate of Western Division, 104–Ceo- graphical Outline of Western Division, 105—Distances of Shore Line of Puget Sound, 107–Harbours, 108–Description of Agricul- tural Lands and Productions, 109–Puyallup Valley, 111—Snoho- mish Valley, 111–Quillehute Valley, 111–Gray's Harbour, 112—Sat- sop Valley, 112–Chehalis Valley, 112–Shoalwater Bay, 113—Cow- litz River and Valley, 113–Newaukum River, 114–Condition of the Roads, 114–Timber Lands Secured by Speculators, 115–Priee of Land, 115–Methods of Clearing Land and Cost, 115–Blowing up Trees, 116–Description of Game, 116–Of Fish, 117–Trout Fishing, and Shooting, 118–Cost of Living, 118–Certainty of Crops, 118 —The Rainy Season, 118. - THE State of Washington—formerly Washington Terri- tory—is bounded on the north by British Columbia, on the east by Idaho, on the south by Oregon, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its area is 69,994 square miles, of which 3,114 are water, leaving 66,880 square miles of land surface, of which it is estimated that 20,000,000 acres are in timber, 5,000,000 acres in rich alluvial lands, and 10,000,000 acres in prairie and plains. The Cascade Range of mountains, extending from north to south, divides the State into two sections, of which the eastern is much the larger. During the winter communication across this range is impracticable, except by railway, owing to heavy snow in the passes. The Olympic Range lies along the coast between Puget 104 Z"//E ASA’/7”/SA/ COZOAM/ST. Sound and the Pacific. In common with British Columbia, this portion of Washington, with its magnificent scenery and delightful climate, is most attractive for the tourist and for the settler. Washington is divided into the Western, Central and Eastern regions, having different climates. Western Washington—The climate is excellent. The mean temperature at Fort Steilcoom for four years was as follows:—January, 38° 1'; February, 40° 7'; March, 41°8'; April, 48°6'; May, 56° 6'; June, 61° 1'; July, 64° 9'; August, 64°; September, 56° 9'; October, 52°6'; November, 46° 2'; December, 38°3'; for the year, 50° 8'; three winter months, 39°. Rainfall for the six months regarded as the rainy season —October, 6.93 inches; November, 1841 inches; December, 4:42 inches; January, 8:69 inches; February, 7:57 inches; March, 2.89 inches; total, 48.91 inches. In some years the annual rainfall is as much as 60 inches or more at some points on the coast. Notwithstanding the excessive rainfall, the climate is extremely healthy during the winter season. Children are not afflicted with catarrhal affections as might be expected. The summer weather is delightful. Properly speaking, there are but two seasons, the dry and the rainy. The grades of temperature, and the accompaniments which in other countries of the same latitude ascribe the features and title to the four seasons, spring, summer, autumn, and winter, are here obliterated, or at least so dimly marked that the seasons impercept- ibly run into each other, and lose their distinctive line of division. It is not unusual for the three winter months to be mild, without snow or ice, the grass grow- IVASHINGTON STA TE--IVESTERN DIVISION. 105 ing meanwhile. In February the weather may occur mild and genial as May, to be succeeded in March or April with the coldest weather of the season, which, however, will only last a short time. In July and August, days, in some portions of which the maximum temperature will reach 90° or 100°, are sometimes fol- lowed by cold nights, occasionally accompanied by heavy frosts. The rainy season, proper, begins late in October, or early in November, and may be said to continue till the ensuing April. It frequently happens after the first rains have commenced that weeks of fine weather occur. Nights are always cool and refreshing. An average of from seven to ten days of freezing weather may be looked for with certainty, and feed and housing for stock should always be provided, although it is not generally the custom amongst improvident settlers. The extreme mildness of the western portions of Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia, irrespective of lati- tude, is produced by a thermal current called the “Japanese,” having its origin at the equator, near the Philippines and the Malaccas, which sweeps northward until forming two branches; one moves on to Behring Straits, and the other bends eastward along the Alentian Islands, and then southward along the coast of Sitka, Oregon, and California. The influence of this warm current modifies the climate of the whole Pacific Coast, and extends to the valleys of Montana, and the Calgarry district in the North-West Territory of the Dominion of Canada. From California, north along the coast, the rainfall is increased the farther you go north. Although winter work is considerably impeded by 106 TIIE BRITISH COLONIST. the rain, people seem to get used to it, and, clad in waterproof suits, pay no attention to weather. There are many days on which the rain falls incessantly during the twenty-four hours, but there are also many in which the fall is light and intermittent, unaccompanied by wind ; and it is never too cold for comfort. Reckless exposure, and the almost universal custom of wearing rubber boots does, in some instances, produce lung and throat affections and rheumatism, but they are com- paratively infrequent. North of the Columbia and lower waters of the Cowlitz, there is little or no malaria from swamps and marshes, and such epidemics as arise from time to time, are to be attributed to the neglect of sanitary precautions, which is a peculiar feature of American towns and settlements. Western Washington finds its synonym in the Puget Sound country. It includes the Puget Sound basin, the valley of the Chehalis, the basin of Shoalwater Bay, and the country drained by the Lower Columbia and its northern tributaries; the principal of which is the Cow- litz. Puget Sound is a deep inland sea, extending nearly 200 square miles from the ocean, and having a surface of about 2,000 square miles, and a shore line of about 1,594 miles, indented with numerous bays, har- bours, and inlets, each with its peculiar name, and con- tains numerous islands, inhabited by farmers, lumber- men, fishermen, and those engaged in quarrying lime and building stone. The beauty and safety of these waters are remarkable. Not a shoal exists within the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, or Hood’s Canal that can in any way interrupt navigation IV-1S//IVGTO.W STATE-WESTERAV D/VIS/O.V. 107 Distances of the shore line of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, Hood's Canal, etc.: (1) Straits of Juan de Fuca, from Cape Flattery to Pt. Partridge- Miles. Pt. Wilson ... •- - - - - 161 (2) Rosario Straits, Canal de Haro, Gulf of Georgia, etc.— East Side Whidby's Island ... - - - - - 79 West Side Whidby's Island - - Pt. Partridge to Deception Pass ... - -- 14 M‘Donough's Island ... - - - - 14 "Main Shore, Pt. Gardiner to 49th parallel ... 128'5 Fidalgo Island - - - 56 Allan's and Barrow's Islands - - • - 7.5 Gueme's Island • - - - - - 16-5 Cypress, Sinclair, Vendovia, and Jack's Islands... 26 Lumni and Eliza Islands ... - - - • - • - 25 Lopez Island ... • - • - - - - • - • • - 34 Decatur Island - - - - - - - - - - - - 11 James' Island... - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4-5 Blakely Island - - - - - - - - - - - 9:5 Frost Island ... - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1-5 San Juan Island • - - - - - - • - 40’0 Shaw's Island • - - - - - - • - 13 Obstruction Island ... - - - - - - - - - - 2.7 Orcas Island ... • - - - - - - - - - - - 57 Jones' Island ... • - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3.8 Henry Island ... • • • - . . . . . . . - - - 5.8 Speeden Island • - - - - - - - - - - • * * 5.7 John's Island ... • - - - - • - 4 Stuart Island ... - - - - - - - 6 Waldon Island • - - - - - - - - - 8.5 Various small Islands - - - - - - - - - - - - 26 627 Io8 THE BAR/T/SA/ COLOAN/S 7. (3) Admiralty Inlet commencing at line Pt. Partridge, Pt. Wilson to Puget Sound— Miles. Pt. Defiance to Possession Sound ... - - - ... 67.5 Possession Sound to Pt. Partridge - ... 34.5 Blake Island ... - - - - - 4 Gig Harbour to Foulweather Bluff - ... 102.0 Bainbridge Island ... - - - • * * - ... 31.0 Port Ludlow to Pt. Wilson... - - - - - - ... 48.0 Vashon Island - - - - - - - 47 (4) Puget Sound commencing at line joining Pt. Defiance and Gig Harbour—embracing all South— - Miles. Main Shore, East Side, Pt. Defiance to Olympia 49-0 Main Shore, West Side, Gig Harbour to Olympia 1680 Day's Island ... - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1-3 Hope Island ... - - - - - - - - 1-3 Island ... - - - - - - - - - - - 10:5 Horrow Island 3 Stretch 4 Anderson 15:5 M'Neil 10-4 Kitson - - - - - - - - 3 Fox Island ... --- - - - • - ... . ... 11:5 Allshons Island - - - - - - - - - 2.5 - 280 (5) Hood's Canal - - - - • • • - - - - 192 Total shore line - - - ... 1,594 miles. BAYS AND HARBOURS. Neah Bay just outside Cape Flattery. Anchorage is good, but no protection from north-west winds. East of Cape Flattery 25 miles, is Callam Bay. Port Angeles, farther east, lies opposite Victoria, B.C. Good harbour when in, but hard to leave without wind tide and WASHINGTON 5TATE—WE.S'TE/i‘N DIVISION. 109 favourable circumstances. Port Townsend, U.S. Custom Station and port of entry, is a good bay, good anchorage, six miles long and three miles wide. Ports Ludlow, Madison, Gamble, Blakey, Dwa-mish or Elliot’s Bay, are small ports the sites of large saw-mills. Seattle is the principal trading port of the Sound, and next comes Tacoma on Commencement Bay. Belling- ham Bay, on the east side, is shallow for a considerable distance out from the shore, but a fair harbour. There is no US. land, easily accessible or desirable for agricultural purposes, unentered, adjacent to the sur- rounding shores of Puget Sound. The interior of the country is exceedingly rough, heavily timbered, and what roads there are, very rough and in the rainy season almost impassable. All available lands on the various islands have long been occupied or owned. On the Lumni and Nooksacl: Rivers flowing into Bellingham Bay, in the N.W. corner of Washington, there is much excellent agricultural and grazing lands. The town of Whatcove, on the river of that name, situated three miles from Bellingham Bay, has, in conjunction with all other towns of any pretensions, and many without, indulged in what is called “ a boom,” a curious Americanism for real estate excitement. It is close to the British line, and has a fine water-power. The lumber resources of What- cove country are great. The mineral deposits are iron and coal, the latter not of a very good quality, and gold has been found on the headwaters of the Nooksack, but not in paying quantities. One third their area under cultivation will range from 40 to 60 dollars per acre. Grasses of all kinds, peas, hops, roots, oats, and vegetables of nearly all kinds, 1 Io THE BR/T/S// COLOAW/ST. yield abundantly, and there are excellent markets on this coast owing to the rapid settlement of the country. It is a little too far north on the coast for wheat. The Snohomish River empties into the Sound abreast of the south end of Whidby's Island. Eighteen miles from its mouth it divides into two confluent streams: the north, called the Skywamish, and the south, the Snoqualuire. On this river and its confluents there is a large quantity of very rich land. The Skagit River empties into the Sound near Fidalgo Island. (Lecouver is the county seat of Skagit County.) It is navigable for 80 miles from its mouths, of which there are several, forming a delta. There is a large body of exceedingly rich land on this river; oats yield 100 bushels to the acre on the tide flats and delta lands reclaimed. These lands are subject to overflow, and precautions must be taken or serious loss may ensue. The Snohomish and Snoqualuire Rivers are navigable for steamers of light draught, to within a few miles of the falls on the latter river. Beyond the falls are several rich prairies of considerable extent. The Dwamish River, with its two principal confluents, the White and Green Rivers, has much valuable land in its valleys; it flows into Elliott's Bay, on which is situated the city of Seattle (King's County). The White River is of historic importance from being the head quarters of a band of Indians, in the war of 1855-56. On October 28th, 1855, the whole settlement was destroyed, and eleven persons horribly butchered. The Dwamish and White Rivers are navigable for 30 miles, and the tide extends up 14 miles. FVASHIZVGTOIV ST.-I TE-—IVESTERN DIVISION. III . Resources of King’ s County are mainly coal (the best south of Vancouver Island), and lumber. Seattle is a thriving city, and the view from the heights of the Olympic or Coast Range is magnificent. The Puyallup River, forming the valley of that name, rises north of Mount Rainier. After receiving the Stuck River it empties into Commencement Bay. This is the great hop-raising region of Washington, and the land, of which there is a considerable quantity in the valleys of these two rivers, is of good quality, and much of it of the richest kind, being alluvial deposit. It is worth 100 dols. per acre, when cultivated, and the supply does not nearly meet the demand. There is also considerable prairie land in the vicinity. These lands yield heavy crops of hops, wheat, barley, oats; and roots and vege- tables grow to enormous size. The city of Tacoma, on Commencement Bay, is the great rival of Seattle, and the capital of Pierce Country. The surrounding country is gravelly, and of little value for the farmer. The Snohomish empties into the elbow of Hood’s Canal, 28 miles north of Olympia. The valley of this river varies from one to three miles in width, and con— tains a great quantity of very rich land. The following yield is well attested ; potatoes, 600 bushels; wheat, 40 bushels; peas, 60 bushels; oats, 70 bushels; timothy hay, 5 tons per acre. In the valleys of the Dungeness and Elwha, there are some fine agricultural lands. These streams rise in the Coast Range, and empty into the Straits of Fuca. Passing down the coast from Cape F lattery, 28 miles, the mouth of the Quillchute River is reached. It varies H2 TI/E BRITISH COLOIVIST. in width from 50 to 200 yar-ls, and gives the name to a variety of salmon as yet not found in any other locality. They are short, thick, and fat, and of delicious flavour. The Indians, whose tribal name is ascribed to this river, are noted in the early history of this coast for their hostility and barbarity to the whites. The bottom lands are extensive, and well adapted to agriculture; but the Indian population, although now reduced to order, is an objectionable feature, and the rainfall is excessive, especially at Cape F lattcry. Going south, Gray’s Harbour, and the valley watered by the Chehalis and its tributaries, is one of the fertile regions of Western Washington. Great activity in the develop- ment of this district is now being displayed. The harbour is said to be equal to that of Boston, and is 15 miles north and south in greatest width, with an area of about 150 square miles. The bay is surrounded by mud flats, bare at low water. The valley of the Chehalis varies in width from 15 to 50 miles. From the mouth of the Satsop River through to Hood’s Canal, closed in by the Black Hills and the Coast Range, is a beautiful open valley, 14: or 15 miles wide. Following the Chehalis Valley to Chehalis, the capital of Lewis County, the garden of the State is traversed. Land is rich and very productive, and high in price. The tide-fiat lands along the coast, and mouths of various streams, are very productive of grass, and used for dairy farms. It is too damp and misty for grain. In the Chehalis Valley, a crop of wheat of 50 bushels per acre was grown on land that had raised 25 crops ; and this with- out any assistance to the soil beyond five years’ summer fallowing. Land of this quality, however, called WASHINGTON STA TE-— IVESTE/\’1V DIVISION. 113 “beaver darn,” or “alluvial” deposit of great depth, is limited and worth from 100 dollars per acre, and is now being purchased for hop yards. The country, bounded on the south by the Chehalis and its tributaries, on the north by Olympia and Tacoma, and extending on both sides of the Northern Pacific Railroad to Centralia, nearly all of a gravelly formation, supporting a scant herbage and, excepting on the banks of small streams, where there are strips of alluvial soil, is comparatively worthless for cultivation. It is, however, a very pretty country. Shoalwater Bay is one of the best harbours north of San Francisco, and receives several rivers, the principal being the Palux, Nasal, and Willopah. The bay is full of shoals and flats, and at low tide half its area is bare ; good but narrow channels run throughout its extent. The valley of the Willopah, one of the oldest settlements in the country, contains a considerable body of rich bottom land of a clayey nature, very productive of -grass. The Cowlitz River rises in the Cascade Mountains, be- tween Mounts Rainier and St. Helens, runs west, then south, and empties into the Columbia, about 50 miles from its mouth. It runs the whole length of Cowlitz County and nearly the whole breadth of Lewis, through good agricultural land, both prairie and bottom. At the headwaters of this river and hits several tributaries, chief of which is the Tilton, is a comparatively recently- formed Colony of Americans. It is about 70 miles from stations on the Northern Pacific Railroad. The pick of the Government land is secured, but there is land- left in this region, most of which is unsurveyed. There have been some rough characters living in this II H4 THE BRITISH COLONIST. remote settlement, and considerable trouble may be ex- pericnced by the settler, not of their own order. Toledo, the head of steamboat navigation on the Cow- litz, about 50 miles from its mouth in the Columbia River, is on the edge of the Cowlitz prairie; a body of some few thousand acres. This is an old settlement, and was the site of the old Red River settlement of Canadian French, introduced. in 1842, under the auspices of the Hudson’s Bay Company. A little north of the upper waters of the Cowlitz, is the Newaukum River. Its course is north and west, and it empties into the Chehalis River, near the town of that name. It has two branches, uniting a little north of the Newaukum prairie, a small opening in the forest. Ranging north, parallel with the Portland and Tacoma branch of the Northern Pacific Railroad, there are several small streams; and then the Des Chutes River, which emp- ties into Budds Inlet, the extreme head of Puget Sound, about two miles from Olympia. Next, the N isqually River, which rises south of Mount Rainier. There are prairies in this vicinity called the Nisqually Plains, and at its mouth is Fort Nisqually, an old Hudson’s Bay post. The whole country comprised within the boundaries of the Columbia in the south, the British line on the north, the Cascade Mountains in the east, and the Pacific Ocean and Puget Sound on the west, is, with the exceptions of clearings and the small prairies mentioned, a vast forest of, in some cases, gigantic timber; with a dense undergrowth. The roads are exceedingly rough in the timber, and very muddy in the wet season, and late in the spring. The timber is very valuable where facility of transportation is obtained ; and there is a large area of IVASH/.VGTO)V STA TE-—WESTEl\".V DIVISION’. I15 . land which will, one day, be available for cultivation. The expense of clearing, however, is so great that atten- tion has only been devoted to the “bottom lands.” A great portion of this region, back from the settlements and ranging along the foot hills of the Cascades, is unsur- veyed. The best portions, valuable for agriculture and timber, have long been secured by saw-mill companies and speculators, at a very low price. Uncultivated land can be bought from 10 to 20 dollars per acre ; or, by going far back in a rough country, some pieces of desirable Government land may be found ; but it is fast being taken up, as railways will soon in- tersect this region. The methods of clearing pursued are as follows:—In the case of bottom lands covered witha small undergrowth of vine, maple, and alder, with no large timber, the brush is cut with a hook, like a bill- hook on a handle; this is laid in rows systematically (June and July is the best time); and, when dry, set on fire. On the ashes, when the autumn rains are at hand, timothy grass seed is sown, and next year a good crop of grass can be cut with a scythe, the stumps of the cut undergrowth remaining about eight inches high. The cost of this “ slashing,” as it is called, is about five dollars per acre, unless there are any larger sized trees to be dealt with. In some instances the hay made will pay for the “ slashing.” The piece of land thus treated, and fenced, is either “grubhed,” roots dug and pulled out with oxen, or used for pasture until they rot and can be easily pulled out; which occurs in two or three years. If done by contract, the cost of cutting, burning, and grabbing, will range from 12 to 20 dols. per acre, on land of this description. On bottom land covered b I 16 THE BAIT/SH COLOAV/ST. heavy timber as well as brush, the latter is treated as before mentioned, and the timber cut down; and, if it cannot be sold for lumber, burnt. The largest trees can be readily burnt, and divided into lengths, by boring two auger holes at right angles, and dropping some lighted coals of green vine maple into the vertical hole. Cedar is cut into rails and other material, for use. The huge stumps are usually left in, and grass seed is sown as before, or they can be blasted with dynamite. The expense of this method is great, according to their size and the time taken; it will vary from 30 dols to 100 dols, per acre. In most cases it is cheaper to purchase land already cleared, than to attempt clearing heavily timbered land, unless for the purpose of selling the timber. The process of blowing up giant trees and stumps is as follows:—A hole is made under the main roots of the stump with a crow-bar, and into this is first put half a cartridge of dynamite (No. 2), with a short fuse attached. The explosion of this makes a cavity for the main charge, well under the base of the tree. This chamber is charged with five or six pounds of Judson powder—more or less, according to the size of the tree—in a linen bag, into which is inserted a cartridge of dynamite with a long fuze. The charge is placed well under the tree, and thoroughly tamped, and the hole filled up. When exploded, the whole tree and the stump will be lifted and shattered; and it is afterwards burnt. There is a great variety of game in Washington, viz.: Grizzly bear (scarce), cinnamon bear, brown bear (the Alaskan variety), black bear, congar (Felis cocolor), wapiti (cervus canadensis), black-tailed deer, mule deer (cervus macrotis), hybrid deer (cervus illehens)—a cross //AS///AWCTOAV STA 7'E-IVES 7 ERAV D/VHS/OAV. 117 between the black-tailed and mule deer, not classed— mountain goat and caribou (scarce). There are three varieties of wolves: black, grey, and the small prairie wolf (coyote). Prairie fox, grey fox, red fox, fisher, martin, beaver, ermine, sea otter, muskrat, and skunk are the small fur-bearing animals. Of small game the following varieties exist:—Dusky grouse, sooty grouse, Richardson's grouse, Franklin's grouse, gray-ruffed grouse, Oregon-ruffed grouse, sharp- tailed grouse, sage cock, American quail (introduced), mountain quail, Californian (crested) quail (intro- duced), Mongolian pheasant (introduced), whistling swan, trumpeter Swan, ducks and geese in great variety, and the Wilson snipe. The most important varieties of fish are salmon, trout, halibut, herring, rock cod, smelts, and black cod (taken off Cape Flattery in limited numbers). Salmon abound everywhere, but are fished for only with net and spear. They can, however, be taken with bait in the harbours and in the rivers. Trout are of two kinds, the brook and the sea trout, which follow and precede the annual runs of salmon. They take the fly freely when not feeding on salmon roe, with which they are caught in great numbers. They range from half to two pounds weight usually. Smelt in immense numbers run up the large rivers above tideway, in April, and can be taken up in small dip-nets. At Shoalwater Bay, and along the coast, there are numbers of flat fish (flounders of good quality), crabs, clams, and oysters, which are, however, very small, though of good flavour. There are many other varieties of fish along the coast. 118 T//E BA/T/S// COLOAT/ST. The best rivers for trout fishing are the Cowlitz and its tributaries (upper waters); Newaukum, and tribu- taries of Chehalis; White River and Black River, its tributary; and various streams and lakes in Whatcove County. For shooting, the head waters of the Cowlitz and the foot-hills of cascades are the best regions. Living is, at least, 25 per cent cheaper than in the Eastern States; and in house-keeping the expenses of the table need not exceed about two dollars per head for adults, or about nine shillings per week. Cereals of all kinds (except maize), grasses (except alfalfa), fruits (except peaches and melons), vegetables, and roots can be raised in abundance. Hops of the finest quality are produced. The climate is, as shown, excellent; and frosts, owing to their being dissolved by the mists of the morning before the sum takes effect, seldom, if ever, do any damage. There has never been an entire failure of crops in the memory of the oldest settler. The scenery along the coast of Puget Sound is grand, and also views of the Cascades from various openings in the timber, and from the larger valleys. The rainy season is trying to people not used to it; and it is impossible to go anywhere in the brush without waterproof clothing, or drive or ride on the roads with- out being covered with mud; but people who have been subjected to the blizzards and low temperatures of the east, are taking to all these drawbacks very kindly. The country is fast filling up with a good class of people from the east, and there are some fair schools at Tacoma and Olympia. CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASHINGTON. CONTENTS. CLIMATE of Central Division, 119–Temperature, 120–Klikitat Val- ley, 121–Methow River, 121—Okanagan River, 121—Chelan River and Lake, 121—Climate of Eastern Division, 122–Colville Valley, 122—Slawtehus Valley, 123–Spokane River, 123-Val- ley of the Walla-Walla, 123—Whitman County, 124–Assolin County, 124–Douglass County, 124–Ellensburgh, 125—Stephen's County, 125—Columbia County, 125—Natural Irrigation in the Walla-Walla Valley, 125–Snake and Coeur d’Alene Rivers, 126–Coeur d'Alene Lake and its Fish, 126—The Kooskoos- kia and Palous Valleys, 126–Coeur d'Alene Mountains, 126– Necessity of Irrigation, 127—The Great Bend, 127–Northern Pacific Lands, 127—The Stock Range, 127-Severe Snowstorm of 1890, 128–Government Land Offices, 128–Cost of Camp Outfit, 128–Game, 129–Fish, 130–Hop Cultivation, 130–Labourers' Wages, 131—House Rent, 131—Railroad Routes, 131–Government Road across the Cascades, 131–Roads from Walla-Walla, 132– Distances on Columbia River, 132–Chinese Labour, 133–Ill- Treatment of Chinamen, 133—A Court of Justice, 135—The Ar- kansas Judge and the Englishman, 136. CENTRAL WASHINGTON.—The climate is dry, bracing, and healthy. The rainfall is scanty, and in many parts insufficient for agricultural purposes. There is a great variation between the temperature at sunrise and mid- day. A fire during the nights of summer, or early in the morning, would be comfortable in many parts. Occasion- ally there is a severe winter and heavy snowfall; but the warm wind from the “Japanese" current, called the “Chinook,” comes to the rescue, and rapidly dissolves it. I20 THE BRITISH COLONIST. . There are, however, winters in which a large number of stock has perished from want of provision. From a reliable source the following temperatures are given :— Walla-Walla, latitude, 46° 03'; altitude, 1,396 feet; spring, 51° 9'; summer, 73° 1' ; autumn, 53° 6’; winter, 34° 1'; year, 53° 2' (mean). Dalles, latitude, 45° 36'; altitude, 300 feet; spring, 53°; summer, 70° 4-’; autumn, 52° 2'; winter, 35° 6 ; year, 52° 8'. Lapwai, Clearwater Valley, latitude, 46° 27' ; altitude, 1,000 feet ; spring, 51°; summer, 70° 3'; autumn, 51° 2'; winter, 36° 9'; year, 52° 4'. Of these the mean represents the climate of the great plains, and of the valleys connected with it up to latitude 49°. The Yakima River rises in the vicinity of the passes of the Cascade Mountains, latitude, 47° 15', from several large and beautiful lakes; course, S.E., 160 miles, to its confluence with the Columbia, in latitude 48° 05'. For 25 miles down the river the valley is from one-half to a mile wide; it then widens out into the Ketelas Plain, 10 or 15 miles wide ; the river there being about 90 feet wide, three deep, and very rapid. On the several tributaries of the Yakima, especially on its upper waters, and in the valley of Yakima itself, there is much rich land. There is some desert and sage brush land. Some portion of this part is wooded, but it is 70 miles up the main Yakima before you reach build- ing pine; but, when the Pisquonee or W enachee is reached, the wooded region extends to the Columbia. All this region is included in Yakima County, viz, valleys of Moxa, Kounowoch, Alitanum, Natches, Cooweetchie, Wenas, and Selah. Irrigation is necessary, except in some low bottom CENTRAL AND EASTEIVIV WASHINGTON. 12! . lands ; rain and snowfall is very light, but the latter is sometimes very heavy. All the best part is taken up and settled. The Dalles, a narrow place in the Columbia River, where the channel has been worn out of the rocks, is about 10 miles above the mouth of the Klikitat River. This valley furnishes the oute of communication with the main Yakima Valley, course generally north; and contains some good farming land. There is a nice settle- ment on the Klikitat Prairie, but this is a rough country, more suitable for stock. Goldendale is the capital of Klikitat County. The Methow River rises, by several sources, in the mountains north-west of Fort Okanagan, and, running southerly, empties into the Columbia; latitude 48°. On its upper part there is a fine wide valley, but this narrows to a mile 10 miles above its mouth. Choice situations all owned. The Okanagan, rising in a long series of lakes north of the 49th parallel, runs nearly south 70 miles within the State, and joins the Columbia eight miles above the Methow. It expands into several marshy lakes on its course, and is generally slow and deep. Its valley is fine and hills well grassed, wooded, and arable. Irriga- tion is required, and all the best portions secured. Above the forks of this river the country is very gravelly and poor. The Chelan River empties 17 miles below the mouth of the Methow River. Three miles up from its source the Chelan Lake is reached. This lake is about 33 miles long, and heads in the main chain of the Cascades, near the head waters of the Methow. There is very little I22 THE BRITISH COLOIVIST. . lanrl suitable for cultivation, and it requires irrigation. Good stock country, but occupied. “ Eastern Washington” is divided from Western Wash- ington by the Columbia River, which bounds it on the west. The climate is excellent, dry, and bracing; and, while the temperature falls considerably below zero during the winters, and there are often heavy snow-falls, the winter season is short, and subject to the influence of the “Chinook” wind. That portion of the eastern division approaching and bordering the British line is subject to summer frosts, and heavier snow-falls. Dur- ing the summer there are days on which the temperature will rise to 100°, or even more in the valley of the Columbia; but the nights are cool, and there is nearly always a breeze, and no sense of lassitude is ever ex- perienced from it. At the town of Walla-Walla (population 3000), and in other towns on the Columbia River, there is “malaria” in the dry season, in the autumn usually, producing ague and bilious fever. There are very high winds in this region—the warm, or “ Chinook,” wind will in a few hours evaporate a heavy fall of snow; but at other times considerable annoyance is often eizperienced from dust, and the operations in the hay fields impeded by their vio- lence. There are no blizzards or violent storms—excep— tional. The Colville Valley derives its name from the Hudson’s Bay Company’s fort of that name, near the bank of the Columbia, in lat. 48° 37'. In the immediate vicinity of the fort the soil is sandy. Colville Valley, 50 miles long and three wide, has a large quantity of good land, as usual, settled, owned, or held by speculators. There are CENTRAL AND EASTERN WASH/MGTOM, 123 fine streams and timber handy. Gold has been found in all this region. A fine valley lies along the Slawtehus for 35 miles, varying from one to three miles in width. The soil of this valley is generally good. It is boggy and marshy in places, and a good deal of it under water in the winter time; and these wet places are particularly valuable for hay land in the summer, and already secured. Following up this valley, and down that of the Chemakane, at a distance of about 58 miles from Fort Colville, the Spokane River is reached. The Spokane empties into the Columbia just below the 48th parallel. Spokane Falls—the name of the city on this river—has a splendid water power, and is destined to be one of the most important cities in the State. It is in the centre of a fine wheat country, and the rich mining districts of Coeur d'Alene. The Spokane plateau embraces all the country included within the limits of the Coeur d'Alene Mountains, the Saplin, Columbia, and Spokane Rivers. It has an undulating stratum of basalt, which is covered with deposits of earth, sand, and gravel. Nearly the whole of this district is unfit for cultivation. The valleys of the Spokane and Coeur d'Alene are, in places, well adapted for settlement, and well supplied with wood and water. - The valley of the Walla-Walla, or Nez Percé, is of surpassing fertility. A peculiarity of the innumerable streams that flow into the Walla-Walla River is that they spread themselves in almost every direction—not only in channels, but over and on top of the surface, constituting an admirable system of self-distributing natural irrigants. To this feature the valley owes much :24 THE /9181 T/SH C01. ONIST. . for its remarkable fertility and producing power. The main streams are skirted by alder, cottonwood, and willow, the only wood. Distant a few miles, however, the Blue Mountains are covered with heavy timber. This is an old settlement, and land and farms are high in price. Whitman County is bounded on the north by Spokane County, on the east by the eastern boundary of the State, and on the south by the Snake River. It contains an area of 1900 square miles. General character of the county is heavy, rolling land, free from timber. There are still some unoccupiedand cheap lands in this county, but they will soon be taken. In the neighbourhoods of Colfax (the county seat), Endicott, and especially Farm- ington, some fine lands are to be found, but must be purchased of railroad companies or private parties. This is a fine grazing country, and eagerly sought after. Assolin County is bounded on the north and east by the Quake River; and on the south by the south boundary of the State. It has an area of 600 square miles, of which about one-third is mountainous, and two- thirds rolling agricultural lands. It is a comparatively new section, without railways, but will soon have them. There is an opportunity at present to secure cheap land. Douglass County, bounded on the south and west by the Columbia River, and on the east by Lincoln and Adams Counties, contains about 4,000 square miles. This is a bunch-grass stock country, subject to summer frosts, and deep snow in winter. A very fine stock range, but requires ample provision for winter. Lincoln County, on the west of Douglass, contains about 2,200, I26 THE BA / TVS// COLO.V/ST. is an American name for a brook or stream considered less than a river, contain very rich land. Also the table- lands and surrounding hills consist of good soil, yielding abundant pasturage. A great number of cool springs burst out of the sides of the hills, some of them of con- siderable volume, sufficient for water powers. The Snake River, having formed the east boundary of the State of Washington from the 46th parallel to the mouth of the Clearwater, crosses the entire width of Eastern Washington, and flows into the Columbia, nine miles north of the mouth of the Walla-Walla. The Coeur d'Alene River empties into the Spokane, and has some fine agricultural and grazing land. Its source, the Coeur d'Alene Lake, is a splendid sheet of water, about thirty miles in length, and from two to ten in width. This lake is full of trout, some of immense size; one, two, and three pounders being common. Nine pounds is the heaviest reported as caught with hook and line, but fish of immense size have been seen. The trout are of many varieties, from the Pacific Coast salmo-frontinalis to the large salmon trout. In the warm season, the trout frequent the mouths of the cold mountain streams run- ning into the lake, and immense catches could be made, but the use of brutal methods of destruction, such as dynamite, &c., is rapidly decreasing the number of fish in all waters easily accessible by settlers. On the Kooskooskia and Palous Rivers, there is some fine land; and such is the climate in some of these valleys, that the grass has been found perfectly green, peas up, and flowers in blossom in December. Several of the tributaries flowing into the lake afford fine land. The Coeur d'Alene Mountains are a mass of limestone, CE.VTA'.4 L AAWD EASTEA'AV IV-1S/7/VGTO.V. 127 and most of the valleys on its western slope contain good land; and the entire region east of the Columbia affords good pasturage. The excitement attending the development of the rich silver mines of the Coeur d'Alene district, has long ago caused all available agricultural lands in this part of the State to be secured. The lowlands of Western Washington, and the Cascade Mountains, arrest almost all the precipitation in the form of rain and snow; the fall of the latter being very heavy in the Cascades. Central and Eastern Washington are very sparingly supplied with rain, and irrigation is required on all table and bench lands. On the rich alluvial lands, already alluded to, especially where there is a natural irrigation produced by spreading streams, or from the storage of moisture in the deep sil, artificial irrigation is not necessary. In the district noted as the “Great Bend,” wheat has been grown with little or no rain, but farming will not be successful until some means of irrigation be found. It is so dry that oats are grown for hay, as grass, such as timothy, cannot be raised. The Northern Pacific Railroad has an immense body of land throughout this part of Washington. The best of it is sold, much of it is worthless, and of the rest, without irrigation it will not yield a crop, except in a very exceptional year. North of lat. 49°, except on the coast, the rainfall may be said to be mil. As a stock country the whole of the State is good. All through the densely timbered western section, cattle and horses find good feed, principally on the succulent shoots of the vine-maple, thimble-berry (a variety of raspberry) and other shrubs; and with provision for a month or six weeks will get along well 128 THA BA / T/SAT COLOAVIS IT, in limited numbers. The open grazing country in the central and eastern portions has been overstocked, and the difficulty of providing hay is great in the more northern part. Douglass County is a fine bunch-grass region, but all hay lands are taken up. In the month of January, 1890, a snow-storm of un- precedented severity occurred in Eastern Washington and Oregon. Reports from the Colville Reservation, in the former, state that cattle are dying by hundreds from starvation; the snow being over two feet deep on a level, with immense drifts. One cattle owner has lost 2000, and others estimate that they will lose half their stock. In Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico great mortal- ity amongst sheep and cattle is reported. It will thus be seen that the profits of years can be swept away by one unusually severe winter. As regards Washington and Oregon, the snow will soon be removed by the warm wind, but it has already lasted long enough to starve stock unprovided with food. Government land offices are situated at Olympia and Tacoma, for the western division, and at North Yakima, Walla-Walla and Spokane Falls for the eastern division of Washington. The best and most economical way to inspect the country, and to select land, is to purchase a waggon and horses, with a general camp outfit. In event of a settlement being made the team will be required, and if not, where judg- ment is used in the purchase, little will be lost in the sale, and less than travelling expenses otherwise would be. The expenses of an outfit for this purpose will be about as follows— Dols. Waggon (farm), 2% in axle ... - - - • * * 85:00 2 Horses • - e. • • • • * * • * * ... 250-00 CEAVTA'.4 L AAVAD EASTEA'AV /WASA//AVCTO AW. I29 Dols. Harness - - - - - - - - - • * * - - - 30.00 Tent ... - - - - - - - - - • * * * * * 25.00 Axes and cooking utensils ... - - - • * * 10:00 Hobbles for horses, lined inside (Portland prices) 1 dol. 25 c. per pair, ... • • • 2:50 Provision for two men, per month, - - - 16:00 Sundries • * * • * * * * * - - - - - - 10:00 Dols. 428:50 With this outfit the prospecters can proceed to any portion of the Pacific Coast by the well-travelled roads they will find, excepting the coast region of Oregon and Washington, in which more difficulty will be experienced in getting about. If the journey be commenced in April, sufficient grass will be obtained for the horses, which can be hobbled and turned loose to graze. The principal game to be found in Eastern Washing- ton are: deer, bear, panther, ruffed and sharp-tailed grouse, the sage-grouse, and a variety of ducks and geese on the lakes and streams in the spring and autumn. The game is much the same in Central Washington, except- ing sage, and sharp-tailed grouse, and substituting the willow-grouse. East of the Cascades the true cinnamon bear is found, and west, the brown, the Alaskan, and the black bear. Hounds are generally used for hunting deer and bears, and dogs to bark and “tree” the ruffed- grouse, which is often shot with a rifle. There is good hunting on the upper waters of the Okanagan and Methow Rivers, and especially on that of the Skagit River, which is, however, a very rough country, and can only be entered by pack animals. I I30 THE BRITISH COLONIST. . At Chelan Lake there used to be good hunting, but the large game is scarce now The ruffed-grouse is plenti- ful, and the lake is full of large trout, which are, however, not of very good flavour. Salmon and trout run up the Columbia and its tributaries, and nearly all mountain streams are full of fish, except in the vicinity of mining camps. In Western Washington the California (crested) quail is getting very numerous. They are difiicult to bag, for they run before the dogs, and get up out of range. The mountain quail is found in the foot-hills of the Cascades, and the American quail has been introduced on Whidby Island. There is some excellent hunting on the head waters of the Cowlitz, and on other streams heading in the Cascades. Ducks and geese abound on the bays and estuaries in the winter; but are fishy in flavour, requir- ing skinning and parboiling to be eatable. The State of lvashington is the finest hop region in the States, and much attention has been given to this in- dustry of late years. Fortunes have been made by hop-raising, but the busi- ness has been rather overdone, and the prices lately obtained are not satisfactory. The valleys of the Chehalis, Cowlitz, and all other streams having alluvial soil, are admirably suited for hop culture. Two thousand pounds to the acre of a fine quality can be raised, and at a cost of about eight cents per 1b., against that of 12 cents in New York State. The market price has varied from 15 cents to 1 dol. per lb. Where failures have occurred, they have been princi- pally in consequence of inexperience and general bad management, in picking and curing. CENTRAL AND EASTEAN WASH/AWG TOM. 131 Farm labourers' wages vary from 15 dols per month, with board, by the year, to 20 dols. One dollar a day, with board, or 1 dol. 50c., without, for short engage- ments, or more in harvest time. Servant girls called “helps," 3 dols to 5 dols, per week, with board; the latter rate, only in cities. Hop-pickers 1 dol. per box. The cost of hiring a buggy and two horses is 5 dols per day; saddle horses, 1 dol.; boarding for a horse, 75 cents per day. House rents from ten to thirty dollars for ordinary frame houses, per month. “Routes” to Washington are, for the western division, Canadian Pacific to Seattle, or Tacoma ; northern, Pacific to Seattle, Tacoma; the Cowlitz and Chehalis Walleys (via “Portland and Tacoma division”), Toledo; on Cowlitz, via steamboat from Portland. Steamboats run to all parts of the Sound from Vancouver, B.C., Seattle, Tacoma and Olympia. Routes for eastern and central divisions: Spokane Falls, Walla-Walla, Sprague, Ellensburgh, for Okanagan district; Yakima, Farming- ton, Palous and Coeur d'Alene districts (via Wallula), by the Northern Pacific. Also, Union Pacific, via Port- land, for the western, and Wallula for the eastern divi- sions of Washington. The best towns or cities for out-fitting are, for Western Washington, Portland, Tacoma, and Seattle; and Chehalis, for Chehalis district. For the eastern and central divisions: Spokane Falls, Walla-Walla, Farm- ington, Sprague, Ellensburgh, and Yakima. There is a Government road from Fort Steilacoom to Wallula, in Walla-Walla County, via Nachess Pass of the Cascades. For the benefit of those who may wish to travel this way, the following distances are given as a guide to 132 THE BA’/T/SAT COALO.V/S 7. halting places. It must be stated, however, that west of the Cascades, this is impassable in winter:— Miles. Miles. To Puyallup River, - - - 22} 22} First crossing White River, - - 9; 31: Last Prairie on White River, - - 6} 38 Second crossing, * > - - 11: 49; Sixth crossing, 5 * - - 5: 55] La Tête, - - - - 3# 59} First crossing Green River, - - 1: 61} Bare Prairie, - - - - 2# 63} Last crossing of Green River, at western base of mountain, - - - 10; 73% First Prairie on summit, - - - 33 77} Last Prairie on summit, - - - 2} 79} First crossing of Nachess River, - - 5' 84% Crossing of Papattsally, - - - 10} 95! Mouth of Bumping, - - - 4} 99; Last crossing of Nachess River, - - 11? 41}. Wenass River, - - - - 10 121} Where road leaves Wenass Valley, - 16 137} First crossing of Yakima River, - - 4 141} First water after 5 * - - 18: 159; Second , 5 * - - .7 167 Brackish Spring, - - - - 16, 183: Great Bend of Yakima River, - - 18} 202 Near mouth of Yakima River, - - 15} 217} Terminus of route, - - - 17# 234} From Toledo, on the Cowlitz River, to Olympia or Tacoma, it is about 57 miles. From Walla-Walla, 30 miles from Wallula, roads diverge in all directions; Walla-Walla to Fisherville, British Columbia, 417 miles; from Tacoma to Ellensburgh, about 150 miles; from Tacoma to Lake Chelan, about 200 miles. Distances on the Columbia River are:—From the Cascades to Great CENTRAL AND EASTEl\’.V IV.-(S111.’\'GTOrV. I33 Dalles, 50 miles; Dalles to Priests’ Rapids, 185 miles; Priests’ Rapids to Colville, 100 miles ; Fort Colville into British Columbia (by steamer), 250 miles; Ellensburgh to Spokane Falls, 280 miles. Farmers on the Pacific Coast are now complaining of the difiiculty of obtaining labour at a reasonable price. The Chinese having to a great extent been driven off the North Pacific, the few that remain have, in imitation of white labourers, increased their rates for work; and timbered land, that at one time they would have con- tracted to clear for 25 dols. an acre, they now ask more than double the amount for, and firewood, formerly cut at 80 cents a cord, they now demand 1 dol. 50 c. for. The “Chinese Exclusion Act” has been inimical to the interests of farmers, fruit growers, and other industries throughout the Pacific Coast. The treatment of these inoffensive, industrious people has been disgraceful to the country; and although the law was invoked for their protection, it did not, nor does it now, protect them from secret intimidation. At Tacoma, the ringleaders of the cowardly outrages perpetrated, were arrested and put under “bonds” to appear for trial, seemingly for “ form's sake,” as they were not brought to trial. Thou- sands of acres of forest and brush-land now under culti- vation would be in their primitive condition but for . the Chinese, for they do a class of work, such as grubbing brush, which is tiresome, that white men cannot easily be got to do. ‘ In the construction of railroads they have been of the greatest assistance to the country. As domestic servants they have been of great service. A manufacturer, asked why he employed Chinese instead of white men, replied, that he had tried both, and found 134 TIIE BRITISH COLON./ST. that his white employees were always grumbling and getting drunk, whereas the Cliinamen were sober, in- dustrious, and reliable. In the fruit regions (especially in California), their services are necessary, and complaints have been made of serious embarrassment in consequence of a diminished supply of labour. In the hop-fields of Washington they are now dependent on the “Indians” for picking; and after driving out the Chinamen, on the “ professed principle” of not wanting to employ “alien” labour, they applied for Indians from British Columbia to assist them. The persecutors of the Chinese are, for the most part, composed of the lowest class of the population, but they use their voting power to influence others, and a candi- date for office ‘must “trim his sails” accordingly, and newspapers make up violent editorial denunciations of the evils of Chinese labour, to suit the palates of their subscribers. It was noticed that after the Pacific division of the Canadian Pacific was completed, and the men paid otl",. drunkenness and rioting ensued amongst the white labourers as usual, but the Chinamen dispersed in a sober and orderly way. It is diflicult for a Chinaman to get justice in any way in the Courts, and in the small “County Courts” it not infrequently happens that de- cisions, in other cases, are outrageously at variance with the evidence, as the following incident will show. The defendants in this suit had contracted with a saw-mill proprietor for a quantity of lumber of a certain grade. A portion of this was of inferior quality, and the defen- dants, aliens, refused to receive it, and suit was then brought for the amount before a “ Justice of the Peace.” CENTRAL AND E.-(STE/RN IVASHLVGTON I35 The case occurred in a small town in “ Washington Territory,” and the defendants retained as counsel the “Probate Judge” of the county. The Court was held in a small school-room, and this was the only case for trial at the time. On the opening of the “ Court,” the defendants’ counsel informed the Justice that he had been up late the night before anrl was not prepared for the case and begged time to look over his brief, which was granted, the audience in the meantime amusing themselves by chewing tobacco and whittling the benches. It afterwards appeared that the defendants’ counsel was seen drunk at a saloon about 12 p.m. the previous night. The defendants’ principal witnesses were two carpenters of undoubted respectability, while those of the plaintiff were some men who had “never seen” the rejected lumber. The defendants’ counsel having arranged his papers, proceedings commenced. The plaintiff’s witnesses were heard without interrup- tion_ and subjected only to a cross-examination tending to strengthen the argument for the plaintiff; but the witnesses for the defendants, whose testimony was clear and emphatic, that the lumber in question was not up to contract, were subjected to continual objections, which were sustained by the Court. The arguments on both sides ended, the defendants’ counsel prepared himself for a “mock” supreme effort in the cause of his clients. He first carefully removed his coat and folded it up, and advanced close to the Justice with raised arm and clenched fist, flourished sometimes within a foot of the former’s nose. The Justice with a smile that was “child-like and bland,” listened to an argument by turns pseudo-pathetic, and as the roaring of a bull, accom- O R. E. G. O. N. CONTENTS. THE Coast Region, its Valleys and Resources, 138–The Cascade Range, 140—Willamette Valley, 141–Variety of Soil, 141–Donation Act, 142–Mortgages, 142–Price of Farms, 142–Fertility, 142–Fruit, 143–Government Land, 143--Umpqua Valley, 144–Rogue River Valley, 144–Malaria, 147–Sheep, 147—The Foot-Hill Region, 148–Markets, 143—Winter Weather, 148–Yaquina Bay, 149– Oregon Pacific Railway Company, 149–Board of Immigration, 149 —Shooting and Fishing, 149–Prices of Lands, 150–Angora Goats, 151—Climate of Eastern Oregon, Geological Features, 151—De- struction of Pasturage by Sheep, 153–Fertility of Soil, 154–Kla- math County, 154–Klamath Lake, 154—Bunch Grass, 154—Des Chutes River, 155—John Day River, 155—-Powder River, 155– The Grande Ronde Valley, 155—Scenery in the Grande Ronde, 155—Climate, 156–Price of Land, 156–Stock Range, 156–Uma- tilla County, 157–Government Land, 157–Wallowa Lake, 157– The Mukletio Salmon, 157–Trout, 158–Game, 159—Combat be- tween Wapiti and Wolves, 159–English Sportsmen in America, 159– Destruction of Game, 160–Cost of Living, 160—House Building, 160–Prices of Stock and other Supplies, 161. THIS State, bounded on the north by Washington, on the east by Idaho Territory, on the west by the Pacific Ocean, and on the south by Nevada and California, con- tains an area of 94,560 square miles. Traversed by the Cascade, Coast, and Blue Mountains, and watered by the tributaries of the Columbia, the Willamette River, and numerous other fine streams, it presents many varieties of soil, climate, and scenery. 138 THE BRITISH COLONIST. There are many English and Scotch settlers, and pro- perty can be 21.61 luirell without taking the iron-clad oath of allegiance. Population, 250,000. The coast region of Oregon ranges the entire length of the State, about 275 miles. It is a narrow strip of very rough, mountain- ous and broken country, running north and south, and bounded on the east by the Coast Range Mountains. . It comprises the counties of Clatsop, Tillarnook, western portions of Benton, Lane, and Douglass, Coss, and Curry. The climate of this coast region is particularly healthy, and there is no malaria. Its mean temperature is wonderfully even, not varying more than about 10° to 15° the entire year; and water everywhere is abundant and very pure. There is not a day in the hottest portion of summer unpleasantly warm, while the nights are always cool and the sea breeze refreshing and invigorat- ing. The numerous streams and rivers are swarming with trout and salmon; and the soil in the valleys is rich and most productive. Cereals, with the exception of oats and barley, do not flourish along the coast, but vegetables and roots—excepting those requiring warm nights—grasses and small fruits of the harder varieties grow abundantly. The Coast Range Mountains, of no great altitude, may be said to consist of a series of high lands running at right angles with the shore; with valleys and rivers, between the numerous spurs, having the same general direction as the highlands. They present a curious ap- pearance in some places, such as a series of flattened cones and peaked hills, and the timber, being mostly killed by forest fires, presents a bleached appearance. A great deal of the dead timber has fallen, and what OA'EGOAN. I39 with the dense growth of the vine-maple, thimble-berry, and other shrubs, and the trunks and roots of the fallen timber, it is very difficult to get about. Cattle roam all through this region and do well, feeding on the vine- maple and thimble-berry principally. Ferns grow to an immense height, and are difficult to get rid of in culti- vation. A great deal of this dead timber, preserved by the charring process, is available for the settler's use, and cedar is not subject to decay. Unfortunately, the amount of land available for culti- vation in this coast district is very limited, and confined to the valleys of rivers and the tide-flats in the vicinity of various small harbours; and every bit of it is occupied or owned, and in many cases illegally held for speculation by persons who could not finally establish a claim at the United States Land Office. Notwithstanding its difficulty of access in many places, its bad roads, often impassable in winter, its comparative remoteness from markets, every little valley having a few acres only, has been eagerly sought for. Three or four tons of hay can be raised on an acre, and with an unlimited run for his cattle, which require very little feed during winter, and butter rated as the best in the State, the settler does very well. Bees are another great source of income, and as they feed a great deal on white clover, which grows abundantly, the honey is delicious. At Astoria near the mouth of the Columbia River, the rainfall is about 70 inches, but going south it rapidly diminishes, until, at a distance of 90 miles or less, it would not be more than at Portland. Although so damp and rainy a climate in winter, catarrhal and pulmonary affections are rarely met with, and then either in consequence of I40 THE BA/TWSA CO/OAV/ST. reckless exposure, or in such persons as have come there with them. Starting from Clatsop County—ranging south—the most desirable valleys are the Nehalem, extending up into Columbia County and dividing Clatsop from Tilla- mook, Tillamook, and Nestucca Valleys, in Tillamook County; Yaquina Bay and valley of Yaquina River; Alsea Bay—the two latter in Benton County;—Sinslaw Valley, in Lane County; Umpqua Valley, in Douglass County; the bay and valley of Coos River, in Coos County; and the Rogue River Walley, in Curry County. Tillamook and Nestucca Valleys can be reached by steamer from Portland to the former; rail and stage from North Yamhill, and Sheridan, (in summer) to the latter. Yaquina Bay is reached by rail from Portland, and steamer from San Francisco, which touches at other points south. Dairy farms can be bought from 30 dollars per acre, according to improvements. There is a considerable area of Government land, so far rejected by land-seekers as being unfit for cultivation and too expensive to clear, which is capable of being formed into fine pasture-land; and in the Eastern States, especially in Pennsylvania, there are thousands of farms made on land not half as good. Crops never fail in this section, and back from the sea-coast fruit of all kinds can be grown in the more southern part of it. At Coos Bay there is an extensive colliery, and in Coos and Curry Counties some fine timber, including myrtle. The average winter tempera- ture of this part of the coast is 46°; the last month of spring is 49° 7'; and the first of winter 48° 2'. The course of the Cascade Mountains—called the Sierra 142 THE BRITISH COL O./V/ST. acre for various cereals are as follows—wheat, 2-ii to 36 bushels; rye, 20 bushels; barley, 26 to 28 bushels; oats, 40 to 65 bushels; potatoes, 1 25 to 200 bushels; timothy grass, 2 to 4 tons per acre. Vegetables of all kinds, and fruits (with exception of those kinds requiring warm nights) are produced abundantly, and there is often a supply far exceeding the demand. Under the Donation Act of 1852 large tracts of land were acquired by settlers, as much as 640 acres by married, and 320 acres by single men. In most cases the farmers were unable to properly cultivate half their land, and the same exhausting system was pursued that has been before mentioned; with the result that a large number of farms in the Willamette and other valleys are now in a state of depletion. The agregate overproduction of wheat, and consequent low prices, added to the seriously impaired productive power of their land, has brought them into debt. At least 50 per cent. of these farms are mortgaged, many of them hope- lessly, and their former owners are struggling along raising such grain as they can for the benefit of their landlords, the mortgagees. At the eleventh hour efforts were made to restore the exhausted fertility of these lands by copying the methods pursued in the old countries, such as pasturing sheep on their winter wheat and summer following. Throughout the Willamette Valley farms can now be bought from 15 to 25 dols. per acre, nearly all ploughed land, with all buildings, and in some cases the farming implements, which, however, after the superior management of the average American farmer, are not worth carrying ofl'. On the Willamette River and along its tributaries the fertility of the soil is comparatively unimpaired, but on farms on the uplands, OREGON. I43 and along the foot-hills of the coast on the west, and Cascade Mountains on the east, land that has had 20 crops of wheat taken off it, and nothing done to assist the soil, it must be a matter of time to restore its pro- ductiveness. Thousands upon thousands of tons of straw have been burnt, and still this plan is adopted to get rid of what the superior intellect of the American farmer tells him is useless and unnecessary as the land is too fat, and it is too much trouble to make manure of it ; and as he has a contempt for books and theoretical agricul- ture, he would not know how to make good manure of it if he tried. The production of fruit is so great that only that of a superior quality is remunerative to the grower. As fruit trees require to be properly pruned and cultivated to obtain a superior quality of fruit, it follows that much produced in Oregon is of inferior quality.. The climate and soil is everything that could be desired, and only the “ knack” the American farmer has of being foremost in everything, which wont give him time to attend to his fruit trees, leads to his disappointment. There are thousands of acres of land suitable for fruit- raising and general farming to be bought at reasonable prices, but land of the fourth class will command at least 100 dollars per acre, and is in demand for hop-raising. On the foot-hills and mountains there is much Govern- ment land left; but it is rough and the timber of no great value, and the soil of inferior quality. Land on which valuable timber is found is generally secured by speculators. The open grazing lands have been so extensively pastured, especially by sheep, that the feed is now very scanty. Besides the Willamette, the principal other valleys 144 THE BRITISH COLOZVIST. . are the Umpqua, in Douglass County, of which Rosc- burgh is the chief town—and the Rogue River Valley. The Umpqua Valley is a beautiful country, and contains about 1,000,000 acres. It is principally rolling or hilly land, the face of the country being in many places rugged and picturesque. It is well supplied with good soil, good timber, and good water. The valley is separ- ated from that of the Willamette by the Calapooya Mountains, a heavily timbered belt, with an altitude of 5000 ft., and extending from the Cascade to the Coast Range. The Umpqua River is navigable for 25 miles by small craft. The Rogue River Valley occupies the extreme southern portion of Western Oregon, extending into California. It is a broken country, or a series of valleys and rolling highlands separated in some places by dense forests of fir and cedar, and in others thinly timbered with oak, affording pasturage. The river is not navigable. The Rogue River district includes more than the strip of country constituting the valley of that river. Spurs from the Siskiyon Mountains to the south, the Cascades to the east, and the Umpquas, on the north, traverse the country in all directions, and the many tributaries of the Rogue River drain valleys of considerable area, some of them nearly 50 miles long. The valley of Bear Creek, a stream rising in the Siskiyon Mountains near the Cali- fornia line, flows into the Rogue River about 50 miles to the north. The valley is about 40 miles long, and 12 miles wide, and is bounded by the spurs of the Siskiyon and Cascade Mountains, ranging north-west and south- east. It is a very pretty valley, well cultivated. Ash- , land Creek rises on Ashland Butte, a snow peak with an OREGON. 145 altitude of about 8000 feet, and enters Bear Creek 30 miles above its mouth. A short distance from its junction the town of Ashland is situated (population, about 3000). It is a station on the California and Oregon line, and has doubled its population within two years. The town is built on an elevation of 2000 feet above the sea level, and enjoys a fine climate, corresponding to that of similar elevations in the district. The mean annual temperature (records of United States Signal Service) is 50° F ahr. The average mean temperature for January, the coldest month in the year, is 33°, and for July, the hottest month, 79°. The average annual rainfall is 23 inches. The greatest precipitation for one month being, in November, eight inches. No violent storms occur, and the temperature seldoms falls below 10°, and snow, to the depth of a few inches, remains on the ground only a short time. There is a cool breeze in the after- noons and evenings of the hottest days in summer. The town is well laid out, and is a pleasant place of resi- dence, having good water and one good hotel, and the surrounding country is very picturesque ; and within 60 miles of the celebrated Crater Lake, a, body of water of unfathomable depth, is an old crater in the Cascade Range. A semi-weekly stage runs from here to Sink- ville, in Klamath County. This is the finest fruit- growing region in Oregon. All fruits not requiring a tropical climate can be grown here, including the English walnut, and peaches are of particularly fine flavour. All cereals, including maize and sorghum, flourish in the valleys. ‘Of fruit, 20 dollars worth of peaches, at one cent per 1b., are said to have been taken from one tree ' eight years old; and 30 dollars worth of apples (at K I46 Tl].5 B/UTISII COLONIST. . same rate) from one tree. From a peach orchard of 1000 trees, 3 years old, a net profit of 100 dols. per acre has been realised, and this fruit is superior to any grown on the Pacific Coast. Land is expensive in the Ashland district, being 100 dols. and more, for choice fruit land, and 150 dols. or more, for land under cultivation, per acre. There are a number of small, partially cultivated farms, at a distance from Ashland in various directions, which can be purchased for low prices from people who are in debt, or wish, with the restless spirit of the old poineer, to move on, or enter into mining or other business; but the amount of choice valley land being very limited, it will command a good price anywhere. There are a number of fruit orchards, which, from neglect or ignorance on the part of their owners, are not remunerative, but it is certain that fruit culture here will, with good management, pay as well (if not better) as on any part of the Pacific Coast, and the climate is far preferable, as the meteorological records will show. There is, also, within a radius of a reasonable distance, the advantage of enjoying some good sport in the way of shooting and fishing. There is much valuable timber in the country; pine, fir, cedar, and oak, which is, however, of little value on this coast. The mineral resources are gold, coal, iron, cinnabar, marble, limestone, and granite. Since 1852, the gold taken out amounts to 25,000,000 dols., but at present the amount found is not much. The rainfall is princi- , pally in winter and early spring, and there are months of dry weather in summer, in which crops will suffer on any but special soils, and the use of irrigation would be a great benefit. OREGON. 14 7 In some seasons Bear Creek dries up above its confluence with Ashland Creek, and water gets very low in wells, and other streams. There is no Government land worth entering, but on the edges of valleys land can be purchased at three to ten dollars per acre. There are water powers in this district, and a woollen mill and other machinery is driven by this means at Ashland. During the summer months the pasturage in the valleys dries up—except meadows; and it is very dusty, and in the southern counties the temperature is often 100° or more in the middle of the day, but it is not oppressive, especially in situations exposed to the daily sea breeze. The Coast Range arrests a considerable portion of the precipitation, and lands of classes 1 and 2 will be likely to suffer from drought. On the Wil- lamette River and its large tributaries and creeks, and in the neighbourhood of any sluggish or stagnant waters, malaria is found in the form of intermittent and bilious fevers. It is particularly bad in the neighbourhood of Salem. Also in the southern counties under similar conditions ague will be troublesome, especially during autumn or protracted droughts. By getting on the up- lands, or in the higher valleys with swift, clear streams, this can be avoided. Oregon is an excellent country for sheep, but it has been overstocked and reliance placed on the open pasturage, which was soon eaten out. Overcrowding in tainted yards, and general neglect of sanitary precautions, has resulted in scab and a degenerated breed. Fortunately, however, intelligent men are now engaged in farming and managing stock, whose example will be followed. With her fine climates and great natural resources, there must be a . I48 THE IJRITISII COLON/ST. . great future for Oregon when agricultural operations are conducted on proper principles. The timber belt of Oregon is situated in the Cascades, and extends the whole length of the State. All along the foothills small valleys will be found, affording ex- cellent situations for small fruit farms. The pure and delightful breeze from the Pacific tempers the heat of the sun, and with pure water and freedom from malaria, life should be enjoyable. People who have experienced the terrible weather of the Central and Eastern States, willingly submit to the loss of some pleasant attributes of their lives in their old homes. The principal market for produce is Portland, from which it is again distri- buted to various points on the Puget Sound and Eastern Washington. The prices obtained by the farmer are not by any means always satisfactory. The middle- men (commission merchants), and railroad companies, especially, when there is no competition, absorb the lion’s share of the proceeds. The American farmer is bled on every side, but he is used to it; and this country is so ruled by monopolists and syndicates, and breeds of one kind and another, that it is difficult to see a way of relief for him. If he can make 6 per cent. on his investment, and a comfortable plain living, he should be satisfied; but unless he is an intelligent manager and a man of judg- ment, he will certainly not do that. Here, as in Wash- ington, the rain and mud in the winter is trying, and the dust is also in summer; but nothing like California. There is no dust in Western Washington, but they take it out in mud. You will often grumble and growl about the state of the roads and the rain, but every week or so you will read in your paper an account of the terrible OA'EGOAV. 149 blizzards in the East ; and in the words of a modern American poet, whose name, however, is not generally known, you will “Get down on your knees in the ‘mus,’ And thank the Lord it aint no ‘wus.’” There are no summer storms to damage anything. Yaquina Bay, about 180 miles from Portland by rail, is a delightful summer resort, and chiefly to be noted as being the Pacific terminus of the Oregon Pacific Road, now pushing through the Cascades to cross Eastern Oregon, and aside with the Union Pacific at Boise City, Idaho. The harbour at Yaquina is said to be the best on the coast, south of the Columbia, but it is not at present deep enough for large vessels drawing over 16 feet. The Oregon Pacific Company, owning nearly all the town side, propose making this port a rival to Portland, by shipping the cereals to be hereafter raised in Eastern Oregon, and such as they can direct from the Willamette Walley from this port, when the harbour is made deep enough. At the rooms of the “Board of Immigration” at Portland some information may be obtained of use to the stranger. There are great attractions for the tourist and sports- man in Oregon; for there is both fine scenery, when not obscured by smoke from fires, or mist (during the early part of summer is the best time), and there is good shooting and fishing everywhere. Large game must be sought in the Cascades, and there are a few deer in the Coast Mountains, and some bears. Dogs must be used, and the ground to be gone over is very rough. There s are ruffed grouse and California quail; and they will be 1 50 Z HE BA’/T/SAT COLOAW/S 7. found in August round the wheat fields, along the edge of the timber, and later in the woods. The Mongolian pheasant has been introduced and is multiplying rapidly. Ducks are abundant on the Columbia and in the lakes. Trout are found everywhere, and salmon wherever they can get up stream in the tributaries of the large rivers. Some of the best rivers for fishing are the “Nehalem,” the Trask, in Tillamook, and the Rogue River, in Douglass County. In the two former rivers fish run to four lbs. in weight; in the latter both large trout and salmon, from 10 to 15 lbs. weight, can be taken with the fly. It is a very rapid river and requires strong tackle. This river is the only place known where salmon take the fly. Take the California J. Oregon Road from Portland and get out at “Goldhill Station,” with camp, outfit, and a barrel of salt to cure the fish, if you are good with tackle. July is the best season. At the falls of the Willamette near Oregon city, in latter end of April and May, when the salmon are running, fish from 10 to 40 lbs can be taken with spoon-bait, and lots of them. For large game, take any of the emigrant roads crossing the Cascades into Eastern Oregon. When in the foothills secure the services of an old hunter. In all the valleys south of the Willamette much of the choicest alluvial soil is under cultivation and valued at 100 dollars per acre. Good land uncultivated can be pur- chased at from 10 to 20 dollars per acre. There are thou- sands of acres of land of good quality, but covered with brush or timber which can be bought cheap, when the timber is of no great value, but the expenses of clearing are an obstacle to the profits of such an investment at present. 0/rzaozv. r5: There are, however, areas of brush. land which can be con- verted into pasture by slashing and burning, and then put- ting Angora goats into the enclosure, which, by ‘constantly nipping the shoots, prevent any new growth; and the profits of the increase of the herd, and the mohair, set against the expense of bringing it into cultivation. The adoption of irrigation in the south portion of the State would be advisable, on certain classes of soil expecially. Eastem Oregon commences east of the Cascades, ex- tends to California, on the south, Idaho, on the east, and \Vashington, on the north. The climate is quite different from that of the western division. It is dry, and bracing, and except on occasional years, never very cold ; mercury seldom going below zero, and the spring is fine, early and open. The snow-falls, sometimes deep, are removed by the “Chinook” wind. The country is subject to high winds, summer and winter ; and dust is very troublesome in some parts, and the winds often bleak in winter. There is an insufiiciency of rain for agri- cultural purposes, and irrigation is required, except in a few places to be hereafter mentioned. There are several large lakes and numerous rivers, but none navigable ex- cept the Snake and the Columbia. Between the Cascade and the Rocky Mountain chains the country is composed of immense plateaux, interspersed with numerous unconnected mountain ridges of recent volcanic origin. Some of these are covered with im- mense forests, while others are merely sterile masses of trappcan rocks, piled together in rugged heaps by the elevatory force of internal fires. By some of these elevations, and by spurs projecting from the two main ranges, the broad table.lands, as before mentioned, are I52 THE BRITISH COLOIVIST. divided into three distinct valleys or basins, namely :— The Utah basin, centring at Great Salt Lake, but having many undulations, forming geographic centres, to which _its rivers flow and disappear in the sandy plains, or dis- charge their currents into island lakes. This basin has no outlet to the sea. The Klainath basin, north-west of Utah (drained by the Klamath River), emptying into the Pacific Ocean, and the Des Chutes River, emptying into the Columbia. The Columbia basin includes all that portion of Oregon lying east of the Cascades, and known as Eastern Oregon; except the small portion occupied by the Klamath, a part of which is in California, and another small portion of the Utah basin lying mostly in Utah Territory. The geological structure of the Cascade range is of the same general character as that of the Rocky Mountains, but there is less of stratified rocks, and stronger indications of recent volcanic action are observed. Basaltic and granitic rocks constitute the geological basis of the country. Slate and other argil- laceous rocks, and a sort of irreducible limestone also characterise the western slope of the Continent. The metamorphic features become more marked the nearer we approach the Pacific, until arriving at the Cascade range, this characteristic is plainly seen. Certain differ- ences between the soil and vegetation on the east, and those on the west side of this second volcano axis of the country, may be explained by atmospheric or meteoro- logical peculiarities ; so that the upheaval of this ridge, notwithstanding those differences, was probably con- temporaneous with that of the Rocky Mountains. But it is certain the Cascade range has undergone more re- cent convulsions, and of the numerous vents along the OREGON. 1 53 summit line, some might be classed as active volcanoes. Slight shocks of earthquake have at periods been felt on the North Pacific slope, but not nearly so severe as those experienced in California. Soon after entering Oregon’s southern boundary, the Cascade range throws off a branch called the Blue Mountains, which extends north-eastwardly through the State, passing into Washington and Idaho. A party of explorers from the “ Princeton University ” have recently made some very interesting discoveries in Eastern Oregon. Between the Blue Mountains and the Cascades the country is reported to be a great volcanic plateau, niade up of lava sheets piled one on top of the other; indicating ancient volcanic outbursts on a stupendous scale. Through this mass of lava streams have cut deep valleys, some broad, and others deep, gloomy canons. This entire district was in a former geological age the bed of a great fresh-water lake, into which streams brought masses of sand and mud, and volcanoes showered ashes. Animals, which were swept into the lake in times of flood, became covered with silt, and as the latter in course of ages consolidated into rock, the bones of the victims were gradually petrified. This rock is now slowly disintegrating by atmospheric action, and these bones are exposed to view in some places on the sides of canyons. From the remains found, it seems that animals were of a much smaller size, and of a different description to those of the present day, and the climate is supposed to have been warmer than at present. Great areas of this region are covered with sage brush, and enormous bands of sheep roam over it. The grass has been utterly destroyed, leaving the i54 THE BRITISH COLONISTI . country quite liare in places, and where the pasturagc is trodden out by large herds of sheep, it is estimated that it would take 12 years for its restoration, in the ordinary course of nature. There are thousands of acres of fertile soil in this country, only requiring irrigation to make them very productive, and vegetables and fruit grown here have proved of very superior quality and flavour. The Oregon Pacific Railway will open this country. S0 far, the whole of Eastern Oregon has been mostly given up to stock-men, who try to keep people out by saying the country is fit for nothing else. Wherever irrigation has been tried, however, on suitable land, it has been successful, and alfalfa will yield abun- dantly. Klamath County, on the southern boundary of the State, has an area of about 5,400 square miles. This county is without any transportation facilities, supplies having to be hauled over the mountains from Ashland, a station on the Oregon and California road. There is a considerable quantity of land, which, with irrigation, will be very productive, but so far it is used for a stock range, and it is overstocked. Some extra- ordinary crops are reported from this county, with irrigation, or raised on land naturally irrigated. The Klamath is a magnificent lake and a peculiar one, inas- much as it has “ no water in it.” It is a broad savannah, sometimes covered with a thin sheet of water for a brief period. There is some good country round Goose Lake, Lake Abert, and some others of considerable size in the northern part of the Utah Basin. The country is picturesque and‘ enticing to the sportsman. The bunch grass (festuca) of the immense grazing lands of Eastern OREGON I 55 . Oregon and llfashington grows in large tufts, and is not bound together by their fibrous roots as with most other grasses. It grows from 6 to 18 inches high, and is very nutritious, and when the dry season commences it cures into a hay, and retains much of its nutritive properties. It was considered inexhaustible, but, in common with all other wild grasses, it will not stand continual cropping, and its place must be taken by cultivated grasses, or re-seeded. The valleys of the Des Chutes and its tributaries, contain some very rich land, and large crops have been produced. The valley of the John Day River is of equal fertility. It is about 30 miles east of the Des Chutes, both rivers running north into the Columbia. Powder River runs through the largest valley in Eastern Oregon, and contains some excellent soil. Burnt River runs through a very rough region, with little land of any value for cultivation, but it is well timbered, with good grass. East of Burnt River the land is comparatively worthless, and im- pregnated with alkali. The “ Grande Ronde,” a few leagues north of Powder River, is an enchanting valley. The first View of it from the Oregon short line of the Union Pacific Railroad, approaching from the east, will delight the beholder. It is about 20 or 30 miles in length, situated in the midst of the Blue Mountains, -whose foothills are clad to their summits in verdure, with blooming orchards and verdant meadows; its sight is most refreshing after hours of journeying over dusty, sage-brush plains. Here is observed a similar natural irrigation to that described at Walla-Walla. The water from mountain streams spreads itself over the western side of the valley, making OAPE GOA . 157 is no room for more herds. In Umatilla County there is a fine range, and enormous bands of horses have been raised there. It is an excellent climate, and grain can be raised without irrigation; and it is a very fine fruit country, and, the elevation being much less, stock winter on very little feed, some winters without any. Riding and driving is attended with pleasure in all Eastern Oregon, for there is little mud and good roads, and the scenery is charming. It must be understood that there is no choice Government land left in Eastern Oregon except the Umatilla Reservation be opened. Land, or farms and ranches must be bought. On the plateaux before mentioned, there are lots of land for entry, but useless without irrigation. In the Wallowa Lake is a peculiar fish, a variety of salmon which has been called the red-fish, or red-trout. Mr. Messenger of Walla-Walla—a keen sportsman and close observer—gives some interesting information about this fish. The red-fish, or red-trout, is anadromous, and ascends to the lake by the Wallowa River in large num- bers in the spring. The peculiar, deep, red colour for which the fish is noted is only assumed during the spawning season. At other times the fish is of a bright silver colour, and is probably the fish known as the “Mukletio salmon ” in Puget Sound. When the fish first arrive at the lake they look slender, but soon be- come very broad and deep, growing constantly in depth, but not much in length. The head of the fish becomes changed and the nose hooked. They have no teeth on arrival, but shortly after these make their appearance, and as they also shed their scales about the same time, their appearance is entirely changed in the course of 158 T///E / / / T/SAT COLOAV/ST. about two weeks. The average weight of the male is from five to six pounds, that of the female from four to five pounds. They have been caught as large as ten pounds occasionally. Although the fish do not appear to feed on anything while in the lake, they will some- times take a hook if baited with their own eggs, which are of a deep-red colour, and one-third smaller than those of the salmo guinnat. The males are very quarrel- some on the spawning bed, and are continually fighting. The principal spawning grounds of these fish are about the mouths of the small tributaries of the lake, and also along the shallow, gravelly shores of the lake itself; which is about four miles long and about a mile and a half wide. In some places it is known to be 325 feet deep, and there are undoubtedly deeper spots than these. The fish commence running into the lake in the first half of July, and the run continues throughout August. After spawning they leave the lake and probably return to the sea in September. Many die, however, annually, while in the lake, from injuries received during the run up, or from exhaustion, and large numbers used to be destroyed by bears, which are very partial to, and expert in catching them. The bears, however, have been caught in their turn by the settlers. One year 25,000 pounds of these fish were taken in nets and sold for 10 to 15 cents per lb. Besides these fish there are in this lake numbers of large trout, weighing from four to six pounds, and also what is called the “bull trout,” a slender, handsome fish with pink spots, caught as heavy as 9 lbs. Wallowa Lake is easy of access, and the climate there during the summer and late into the autumn is delightful. There OREGON. I 59 is still some fair hunting to be had in this district. The game is much the same as before described. There is some good duck and snipe shooting in the Grande Ronde Valley, and ruffed grouse in the timber, and lots of small trout in the mountain streams, and salmon come up the river in the season. Good hunting will be found in Willowa County. In Klamath County (in the moun- tains) there are some bands of “ Wapiti ” deer (called elk) and there is some very good hunting ground here; there being no railroad communication. An exciting scene was recently witnessed by some hunters in the “Linkville” district. A band of wapiti accompanied by a fawn and headed by a “ Monarch of the Glen,” was discovered in a small valley, and the hunters were pre- paring to shoot, when suddenly some large, grey wolves dashed out from the bush and pulled down the fawn. The band of wapiti at once went to the rescue, and forming a cordon round the wolves, presented their formidable antlers to the foe. The wolves, with sav-age ‘ yells, sprang again and again at the wapiti, only to be hurled back mangled and bleeding. Closer and closer pressed the wapiti, presenting an impenetrable chevaua:- de-frise with their antlers, till at length the wolves were left dead on the ground, only one mangled animal having , strength to crawl off. Unfortunately, the hunters had approached so close during the conflict that ' they easily despatched several of the wapiti, which should have been spared after their noble defence. While touching on the subject of hunting, something should be said of the frequent charges brought against English sportsmen, particularly, of wantonly butchering game, by American newspapers. Some few instances may have occurred, I60 THE BRITISH COLONIST, but very few, and the game has been destroyed by American skin-hunters. Tons of buffalo-robes were sold for as low as a dollar each, and the carcasses left on the plains. Deer and wapiti were surrounded in deep snow and slaughtered for their skins. Prairie grouse and quail were trapped, and the former have been thrown to the hogs in former times in Illinois, where they used to be abundant. Rather late in the day “associations of sportsmen,” in various parts of the country, are doing their best to put a stop to all this, and enforce the game laws, which, however, cannot easily be done in many places, for those law-abiding citizens who wish to give information of violations of the law dare not, for fear of the revenge of those informed against. The term “sportsman” is in this country mostly applied to the horse-racing and gambling fraternity, and that of “hunter” refers to those who use the rifle and shot-gun. At Portland there is a Game Preservation Society, and there are a number of true sportsmen. Here is published the best newspaper on the Pacific Coast, the Oregonian, which bravely maintained the rights‘ of the Chinese during their persecution, and it may be said, greatly to the credit of the State of Oregon, that every attempt at outrage was suppressed. The prices of provisions at Portland are as low as in the east, and in many cases lower. Clothing also is as cheap although brought from the east. Building material of all kinds is reasonable in price, and the cost of living less than it would be in the eastern States. A small cottage of lumber and plastered can be built for 350 dollars. A small house of seven small rooms, 900 dollars. In the first case about 5,000 feet of lumber and CALIFORNIA. CONTENTS. DESCRIPTION and Area, 163—Climate, 163–Coast Region, 164—Valleys in the Sierra Nevada, 165—Climate of San Francisco, 165—Climate at Fort Yuma, 166—The Rainy Season, 166—Mean Rainfall of Pacific Coast, 167—Malarial Fevers, 168—Pulmonary Diseases, 168–Mean Temperatures, 169-Government Land, 169—Dehesia Land Com- pany, 169–Monte Vista and Rosenthal Land Companies, 169–Shasta County, 169—Sacramento Valley, 170—Rivers in Shasta, 170—Rain- fall at Red Bluff, 171—Lands for Homesteads, 171—Immigration Society, 171—The Settler on Government Land, 172—The Foothills of the Sierra, 172–Land in Owens, Salinos, and Estrella Valleys, 173 —Fertility and Extent of Tule Lands, 174–Irrigation, 176—The Ramie Plant, 176–San Joaquin Valley, 179—Miramonte Colony, 180 —Selection of Lands for Vineyards, 181—The Old Missions, 182– Valley of San José, 183–Valleys of Sonoma, Napa, Bodega, 183– Temperature of the Citrus Belts, 184—Orange Trees, 184—Figs, 185—Exports of Oranges, 185–Assessment of Fruit Lands, 185– Cost of Making Orchards, 187—Profits of Orchards, 189—Of Oranges, 189—Report of Los Angelos Chamber of Commerce, 189— Climate and Soil for Oranges, 190—Profit of Oranges in Florida, 191—Cost of Making Wines, 192—Wholesale Prices of Wines at New York, 193—Prices of Wines on Pacific Coast, 194–Prices of Fruit, 194—Importations of Fruits and Wines, 195—Prices Current, 195–Quality of California Fruits, 196—Exportation of Green Fruit, 196—Quality of Green Fruit and Vegetables, 197—Labour in Cali- fornia, 197–Cotton in Southern California, 197--Rice Lands, 198– Cost and Profits of Figs, 198 – Capital Required for a Settler, 198– View of the Sacramento Valley, 199—The City of Sacramento, 199– Benicia, 201—Napa and Sonoma Valleys, 201—The Sierra Nevada Range, 201—Scenery in Southern California, 202-San Bernadino Valley, 202–Rivers, 202--San Bernadino Mountains, 203–San CAL/AORAV/A. 163 Bruno and Santa Barbara Ranges, 203 -Harbours, 204-San Diego, 204–Coronado Beach, 204–Hotels, 204–San Diego, Resources and Climate, 205–Value of Fruit Orchards, 206–Stock Range in Southern California, 207–Alfalfa in San Bernadino Valley, 207 —Cultivation of Alfalfa, 207 – Feeding Stock, 208–Profit on Green Fruit, 210–Cultivation of the Olive, 211—Olive Oil, 213– Product of an Olive Orchard, 215–Price of Imported Olive Oil, 215—Mr. Cooper's Report on Olives, 215–Age of Bearing of Olive Trees, 216—A Conscientious Estate Agent, 217–Labourers and Mechanics, 217–Cost of Fencing, 217–Rabbits, 217. THIS immense State extends along the Pacific Coast 750 miles, with an average breadth of 230. Its area is 120,947,840 acres, of which about 89,000,000 acres are estimated as suited for some kinds of agricultural in- dustry. In the basin of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers there are about 14,000,000 acres of arable land, 16,000,000 in the coast valleys, and the remainder in the “Colorado Desert,” Owens River valley, and the Klamath basin. The area of lakes, bays, and mountains is estimated at 14,000,000 acres. The Climate of California. There are two climates; the inland and the coast. The temperature of the water in the ocean is very even, standing at 52 to 45° all the year round. From April to October a steady, cool, moist wind from the north prevails. It is always cool and pleasant both summer and winter. The inland climate may be subdivided into the climate in the valleys, and that of the foothills of the mountains and the highlands. In the summer, in the former, it is exceedingly dry, with an immense depth of dust, which covers the pedestrian or equestrian as with a cloud, and it penetrates everything. During July, 164 THE BRITISH C01. 01v'1sT. August, and September, the heat is great, often reaching from 106° to 110° during the middle of the day, and is, in the southern portion of the State especially, quite prostrating, and all who can afford it go to the seaside. This great heat being accompanied by an extremely dry atmosphere, and consequent rapid evaporation, sunstroke does not occur, as it would in many of the Eastern States with a very much lower temperature; and great as the heat is in these valleys, it is much more endurable than 85° in the shade in New York. or Philadelphia. In all those portions of the valleys surrounding the Bay of San Francisco, and in all others adjacent to the ocean, the moist air from the latter prevents it from being scorched in summer, or frozen in winter. The cold of winter in the interior, even on mountain elevations, is not intense, with the exception of counties in the extreme north of great elevation. The severity of winter is due, not to extreme cold in every part, but to violent and prolonged snowstorms in one section, and cold and pro- longed rains in others. The long range of the coast, the slope of which, as far back as the first mountain wall, is under the control of the ocean, has a most uniform climate. The soil is kept moist by daily deposits of mist, and is admirably adapted for dairy purposes, as well as all vegetable growth. The counties bordering on the great bay, Sonoma, Napa, Solano, Contra Costa, Alameda, Santa Clara, and San Mateo have climates modified by the warm, moist air from the Pacific, and have wonder- ful agricultural resources. The Payaro, and some other valleys further south, are also bathed by the moist winds of the ocean, as also the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, but in a less degree, being further back from the CALIFORNIA. I65 ocean. The innumerable little valleys ranging along the Sierra Nevada range have deep snow in winter, and are furnaces in the hot part of summer. They are luxuriant in vegetation in spring and summer, and all kinds of fruit are most productive; and the numerous mountain streams afford plenty of irrigating facilities. -The southern section, including one-fourth the State, is de- ficient in rainfall. The Climate of San Fr'cmcisc0.—The mean annual temperature is 56'6, and for that of the coast and bay climate generally, it is the same. A record for 17 years at San Francisco shows the coldest day to have been 25°, and the coldest noon-day 37°. The two hottest days were 97° and 98° ; but this is a most exceptionally high temperature. There were but six days in 17 years in which the thermometer was as high on an average as 90°. The first decided rains commence generally in November or December. In January the rains abate, and vegeta- tion advances slowly, with occasional slight frosts- February is like spring, with little rain. March and April are pleasant and showery, with an occasional hot day. In June, when the hot weather sets in, the breeze comes and continues through July and August, occasion- ally holding up for a day or two, when it is rather warm. In September the sea breeze moderates, and ' there is some warmish weather which is prolonged into the next month. Pleasant weather continues often into November, or December, when the rains set in. The_ great scourge of San Francisco is the dust, which is very bad at times, whirling into the eyes at every turning of the street, and generally producing a sense of discom- fort. Ladies’ dresses suffer much from the effects of I66 THE BA’/TVSA COLO.V/ST. this dust. The winter season is the most pleasant in all respects. Receding from the ocean the days are warmer, and the nights colder, but the mean varies little within the range of the sea breeze, and throughout California the nights are cool and refreshing, with few exceptions. In the south-east corner of the State there is a section having a distinct climate. It is known as the Colorado Desert-barren of vegetation, with little rain. Here is situated Fort Yuma—one of the hottest places on earth. The heat, commencing to be excessive in May, becomes unendurable in June, July, and August, marking from 116° to 120° in the shade, and about 90° at 10 P.M. In this belt of country rain seldom falls; in the distance dark clouds may be seen hanging over the California and Sonoramian Mountains, but they seldom visit inter- mediate localities, and during one whole year only two inches of rain fell. During winter and spring storms of dust and sand sweep over the desert plains, coming principally from the north-west, raising and carrying before them clouds of pulverised sand and dust, which penetrate every crevice, the finest silk not being imper- vious. In summer these hot winds—like the simoons of the Sahara—sweep over and scorch the land, like the hot blasts of a furnace. During the rainy season, in California, the rain is not perpetual. In more than half the winter, usually, there is no more than necessary for agriculture, and much pleasant weather is interspersed. In the intervals of rain it is bright, sunny, and calm. At Christmas every- thing is green almost throughout the State, and in February and March flowers and blossoms are out. The rains are showery, and not often regularly continuous CA LIFORAVIA. 167 for many hours, and the sun breaks forth frequently in the midst of a shower, and the sky becomes almost clear. Presently, when it is least expected, the rain is heard on the roof with the suddenness of a shower-bath. The night is more favourable to rain than the day, and no matter how dense the clouds, or how marked the indi- cations of the barometer, the sun frequently breaks the clouds, and the rain is not renewed until night. The following table exhibits the mean quantity of rain falling at different stations, and the number of years on which the mean is computed. The stations are arranged in the order of their latitude, beginning with Fort Yuma and San Diego, which are about on the same parallel:— MEAN QUANTITY OF RAIN. Localities, Term. Mean. Years. Inches. Fort Yuma. - - - - - - • * * ... 4 3:24 San Diego • • • • - • - ... 3 10:43 Monterey • - • • - - - - ... 4 12:20 Stockton • - • • • • * * ... 4 15-10 San Francisco ... • • * 17 20.79 Benicia 8 22.86 Sacramento 12 18-23 Placerville 1 86 Do. • • 1 26 South Yuba 1 109 DO. - - - • * * 1 81:56 Red Dog (Nevada County) 3 64 Fort Jones . ... • - 3 16.17 Hoopa Valley (Klamath County) 1 129-15 Port Orford • * * •- • - 4 71.63 Astoria, Oregon ... 1} 86°35 Dalles, Do. ... • * * • * * 2 14'32 Fort Steilacoom, Washington ... 5 61.75 I68 TAZ /5'A'A 7/SA/ CO/LOA/AS Z. California, with a range of 10° of latitude, has a mini- mum of 3} inches at Yuma, and a maximum of over 100 inches on the Sierras. The enormous quantity of 129 inches at Hoopa Valley was registered by Dr. Kirkpatrick of the U.S. Army. The rainfall for three months was as follows:–Novem- ber, 44.10 in.; December, 23.79 in.; January, 3095 in. On the South Yuba 41.95 in. fell in one month—Decem- ber. As this enormous mass of water drains into the Sacramento River, it is no wonder terrible inundations sometimes occur. Hoopa Valley is only 40 miles west of Fort Jones, where the annual supply is set down as 16-77 in only. In the lower portion of the Sacramento, and in other valleys, especially in the Los Angelos district, ague and bilious fevers prevail in the autumn. Dense fogs occur at Los Angelos in the winter, and so much moisture is deposited, that water can be wrung out of the beard, and a person hardly seen across the street. - Mr. Lorin Blodget, with reference to the effect of the cli- mate on pulmonary diseases (“Climatology of the United States,” p. 475), says: “Three years at Sacramento, which would represent the average of Upper California quite correctly, gave 113 deaths in a total of 1,251, or 90.03 per 1,000; but,” he remarks, “certain it is, how- ever, that few of the cases of consumptive diseases hitherto met with in the valley have originated here. In most, if not in all the instances, the disease has been implanted before reaching the country, and the most that can be said is, that it has not been benefited by the change. . . .” It is believed that the cases of all pul- monary affections originating in California will not reach CALIFORNI.-1. 169 four per cent. on the number of deaths, and will thus stand at less than one-third of the number of the Eastern States. The yearly mean temperatures for the following stations are: San Francisco, 56'6° ; Sacra- mento, 58°; San Diego, 62°; Port Orford, 53°; Dalles, Oregon, 53°; Fort Steilacoom, Washington, 51°. In Shasta County, in the northern part of the State, there is reported to be 1,500,000 acres of Government land unentered. The “Dehesia Colony,” comprising 1,480 acres, situ- ated three miles from Reading, the capital of the county, offers its lands in 20 and 30 acre lots, at 20 to 4<0 dollars per acre. The Monte Vista Colony, comprising 1,500 acres, lying two miles east and north of Anderson, on the California and Oregon Railway, 220 miles north of San Francisco, offers land at 30 to 75 dollars per acre. The Rosenthal Colony has 9-000 acres in the Upper Sacra- mento Valley, seven miles south of Red Bluff, offered at 20 to 50 dollars per acre. The usual terms are: one- third cash, one-third in two years, and one-third in three years, with interest at eight per cent. on deferred pay- ments. Shasta is separated from Oregon hy Siskiyon and Modoc Counties. Of its area, 975,000 acres are fertile lower foothill land, 1,250,000 acres higher foot- hills and Sierra Mountains, and 335,000 acres Coast Range Mountains. The Sierra and Coast Range Mountains cover a large portion of this county on all sides but the south, which comprises the lower foothill region, half-circular in shape, forming the upper part of the Sacramento Valley, and having an altitude of from 400 to 2,500 feet above sea- level. The south-west portion of the foothill region is a I70 THE BRITISH COL01VIST. succession of rounded hills, varying in height from 50 to 500 feet above the general level of the valley. In the central and southern portions are elevated land and valleys. From this section eastward there is a gradual ascent to the mountains, with many fine valleys and plateaux, the soil being a loose loam, composed of decayed vegetable matter. The Sacramento River runs through a considerable portion of the county. Reading is about 300 miles from the sea by the Sacramento River, but only about 220 miles by the direct course of the valley, and is the head of steamboat navigation. The valley of the Sacramento is here from 10 to 15 miles wide, but is more or less occupied by the foothills of the Sierra Nevada on the east, and of the Coast Range on the west, and these hills extend occasionally in bluffs of 60 and a 100 feet in height, quite to the river banks, but they become less frequent descending, and eventually entirely disappear near the river, and the valley becomes wider, more open, and level. For several miles above Reading the valley is open, rolling prairie. The general level of the country is elevated above the level of the immediate river banks, and is broken by dry ravines and hills. Seventeen miles above Reading the course of the Sacramento for 96 miles to the mouth of Canoe Creek lies through heavily-tim- bered mountains, rising precipitously from the river banks to a height of 1,500 to 2,000 feet. Its course is winding, and seldom straight for over two miles together. Of the numerous streams of the country, the McCloud River, rising on Mount Shasta—14-,~H0 elevation—runs about half its length through the county, and empties into Pitt River, which is a tributary of the Sacramento. CALIFORNIA. 171 . Cow Creek and its tributaries, Oak Run, Clover Creek, Bear Creek, and Battle Creek, are all running streams, rising in the Sierras, and draining the south-eastern part of the county. Montgomery, Cedar, Hatchet, Burney, and Hat Creeks are mountain streams emptying into Pitt River. The most beautiful stream is Fall River, which has three springs for its source, and winds 25 miles through the country, and empties into Pitt River. Springs abound in the foothills and mountains. The United States Signal Service Officer in Red Bluff records a mean annual rainfall of 28 inches. The months of July and August have no rain. June has 0'2 in., and Septem- ber 0'4~ only. The mean temperature for July is 83°, and for August 80°. The temperature will often reach 106° in the summer months. Irrigation can, perhaps, be dispensed with on a certain class of soil. With respect to Government land, much of it is on the sides of moun'- _tains, called “Upper Foothills,” and it has been all run over, and the best bits picked out. It is possible, how- ever, by taking time, and searching along the foothills of the Sierra, to find small pieces of land on which a home could be established. The timber is pine, cedar, and fir. Lumber costs from 12 to 30 dollars per 1,000 feet. All lands of good quality in easily accessible places throughout California are held by speculators. The “ Immigration Association” of California has been re-organized, and placed under the superintendence of Messrs. C. H. Street & Co., 415 Montgomery Street, San Francisco. At their oflice, maps, and plats of unentered Government land in the State can be seen, together with its character; and assistance will be furnished to persons seeking to enter forahomestcad under the United States 172 THE BRITISH COLO1VIST. laws. A library and reading-room is also pro\'ided,and it is advisable for all persons wishing to secure land to first visit this oflice. The “ Immigration Society” gives the following esti- mates of unentered Government lands in the State. Acres Area of uuentered Government land 38,000,000 Area suitable for lumbering, mining, etc., 15,000,000 Area suitable for some agriculture 13,000,000 Area steep, rocky, and unfit for cultivation 10,000,000 It must be understood that any Government land of sufficiently good quality, and desirable in other respects, which may be left, will only be found in places remote from markets and difiicult of access, or of such a nature as to require considerable labour and expense to get into order. Even to successfully enter a piece of land of this description, it is necessary a man should have at least from 500 to 1000 dols., clear of his travelling ex- penses. In addition to this, he must be prepared to “rough it ” in every way, and work for others as well as himself; and in the majority of cases, it will be a long and tedious struggle to bring his land into a condition that will support him; much will depend, however, on the quality of the land he may be fortunate enough to find, and his own industry, thrift, and adaptability to the life. On the higher foothills of the Sierras, the rain- fall is greater, and all along this range there are chances here and there of settling on some spot, which with patient industry may, in the course of years, support a small family by means of mixed farming. On the higher elevations of the Sierras, and the Sis-kiyon Moun- C.-ILIFORZVIA. 173 tains north of “Shasta ” County, immense snow-falls occur in the winter, and in some places avalanches en- sue. Along the western base of the Sierra Nevada, for about 300’ miles, through Shasta, Tehama, Placer, Yuba, Butte, Plumas, Nevada, El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras, T uolumne, Marposa, Fresno, Tulare and Kern Counties and extending in height to about 4000 feet, is a tract of country consisting of rolling hills, narrow valleys, small flats, plateaux, deep ravines, with rocky and steep places. Its surface is covered with timber and brush, and it has an abundant rainfall, north of Tuolumne County, and a semi-tropical climate, with plenty of good water; and fruit, vegetables, and cereals will do well. The lands must be cleared, however, which will be expensive. There are chances of buying out a small improved place, occasionally, from some one who desires to go elsewhere. The foothills on the east side of the Coast Range extend through Shasta, Tehama, Colusa, Yolo, Solano, Contra Costa, Alameda, Stanislaus, Merced, Fresno, Tulare and Kern Counties. In Shasta, Tehama and Colusa, much of the land belongs to Government. There is plenty of timber on the higher mountains, and some fair land in places, but there is not so much rainfall, nor is the country so well watered as in the Sierras, but irrigation is, as a rule, not necessary. To take up Government land, the “ intention” of becoming a citizen must be declared, and the fees will amount to 22 dols. ; and at the expiration of five years, all regulations having been complied with, a title will be given. In the meantime, the homestead is free from taxation and cannot be seized for debt. In Owen’s Valley, J uyo County, land is offered in large tracts (640 acres) at 1 dol. per acre. In the Salinos and 174 THE ABA'/T/SAT COLOAN/S 7. Estrella Valleys it is said there are thousands of acres of land fit for cultivation when irrigated. These lands are, however, at present, remote from any market, and east of the mountains, and may be considered semi-desert lands. It is intended to extend a branch railroad from Mogave on the Southern Pacific Railroad, through Owen's Valley, and connection will be made with the Carson and Colorado line, which connects with Reuo on the Central Pacific (via Virginia and Truckee Railroad). In any of the valleys south, land or cultivated vine- yards can be bought. Care must be exercised in pur- chasing the latter, to find out the reason for selling, and condition of the soil. It was estimated by the surveyor- general of California, that there were about 3,000,000 acres of swamp and overflowed lands in the State. These lands when reclaimed are of surpassing fertility, and 80 bushels of wheat per acre have been raised on land of this class. Good valley lands in California pro- duce about 30 bushels; reclaimed swamp lands from 35 to 40 bushels; but the highest average product of wheat, taking all classes of land together, has not exceeded 20 bushels per acre. Mr. Ross Browne describes three classes of land in California subject to overflow—the tule lands, bordering on lakes and rivers; the low alluvial valley lands; and the salt marshes, bordering on the shores of bays and estuaries. The tule lands derive their name from a species of gigantic rushes which grow upon them, forming a mass of roots and fibres that con- tribute mainly to the growth of the land itself. For centuries past these tules have been burnt off by the Indians in the dry season while in search of game, and CALIFORNIA. 175 the accretions formed by the roots, mingled with the ashes, together with deposits of soil carried down from the uplands, have gradually caused them to rise above the level of the ordinary water-surface. In seasons of flood, or by the action of tide where it prevails, they are submerged, unless protected by levees or embankments. The principal portions of the tule lands of the State lie along the shores of Kern, Rio Vista, and Tulare Lakes, south; extending thence, northwardly, in a belt along the San Joaquin River, as far as their junction with the tule lands of the Sacramento, which commence above Red Bluff, following southwardly, both sides of the Sacramento River, till they form the great delta into which the two rivers are united. Mr. Browne regards these lands as better adapted to the production of grass than any other crop. He believes they would be more profitable bearing from 5 to 8 tons of alfalfa, timothy, or blue-grass annually per acre, than they could ever be under permanent cultivation in wheat. They will pro- duce jute, flax, ranice, hemp and other textiles, but their great value consists in the fact that they are some of the finest meadow lands in the world. As an illustration of the wonderful productiveness of these reclaimed lands, the following results of actual experiments are given: Twitchell Island, in the delta of the Sacramento, and San Joaquin, was purchased by a Kentucky company, who paid for 3000 acres 25 dollars per acre. By the simple process of burning thetules, scattering the seed in the ashes, and tramping it in by running herds of sheep over it, they planted 1,000 acres, which gave them a gross yield of wheat amounting to 36,000 dollars. As high as 75 bushels to the acre was 176 THE BRITISH COLONIST. produced on particular tracts, with a general average of 40 to 50 bushels. At the Mormon settlement in the Sacramento Valley, an average yield of 40 bushels per acre was produced. Where crops are irrigated during summer, the annual product is greatly increased, and two or three alternate crops of different products pro- duced in a season. The yield of these moist lands in alfalfa, timothy, and other grasses, is enormous. Five tons to the acre is considered an ordinary crop, while as . , high as 8 tons in a single year was nothing uncommon. At 15 dols. a ton, allowing one-half for expense of culti- vation, baling, and shipping, a very handsome profit can be made. Speaking of the importance of a complete system of irrigation, Mr. Browne says :—Irrigation is necessarily and inseparably associated with reclamation. It would be of comparatively little use to reclaim from overflow the swamp-lands of the Sacramento, or San Joaquin Valleys, without providing at the same time an eflicient system of canals and ditches for irrigating them during seasons of drought. The lowlands have the advantage in retaining their moisture to a later period in the sea- son than the uplands; but experience shows that their productiveness is materially affected by drought, and that no reclamation is perfect which does not include the means of irrigation. The. ramie plant, Urtica tenacissima, was first intro- duced into the United States by Mons. Ernest Godcaux, French Consul in New Orleans, 1867, and Benito Raezl, a Bohemian botanist, once a resident of Santa Comapan, in Mexico. Any idea of its successful cultivation seems, subsequently, to have been abandoned. The tissues CALIFORNIA. I77 called “Japan silk,” Canton goods, grass-cloth, nankin- linen, and many other varieties of goods, are generally made of ramie material, mixed with other fibre more or less. Almost all the dress goods-—mixed with brilliant materials and imitating silk fabrics—are made in part of ramie. Leeds and Bradford were the principal manu- facturing centres using this staple as a substitute for silk in many sorts of goods. It is a common error to consider ramie as a substitute for cotton. Ramie is a perennial plant and semi-aquatic, cultivated in China and - India; and the tule-lands of California are considered well-adapted for its cultivation. The problem of the successful cultivation of ramie consists in a cheap and rapid preparation of the fibre, and this problem Mr. Forbes of Atlanta, Georgia, thinks he has solved. By his process every fibre retains its original length, and the gum and rosin in the bark are dissolved cheaply and quickly. The specimens recently exhibited by Mr. Forbes are beautiful, very long and silky, and might pass anywhere for raw silk. There is already a market in this country for ramie, and experiments made in various parts of the south demonstrate that it can be successfully cultivated. Mr. Fremerey of Texas, in Manufacturer's Record, gives the following method of cultivating ramie. The seed should be first sown in a bed in March, where they will have to be treated with some care. When they are from 6 to 7 inches high, they are mature enough to be transplanted to the field. The ground for a ramie plantation should be ploughed to a depth of from eight to ten inches, and sub-soiled to afurther depth of from four to six inches, in order to allow the tap-roots to get a M 178 THE B/CIT/SH COI-0.\'IST. firm start. This work done, two furrows of six inches deep and two feet apart are ploughed,in which the slips are placed, at distances of one foot. They are planted so that only the leaves stand out. On each side of the rows, a foot of ground should be kept clear for the use of the plants. A space of one foot on each side of the bed is left for cultivating roads, and for irrigating pur- poses. The plants require no further tillage than light cultivating after each crop, and some weeding in the first year. No pains should be spared at the very start, as upon the first care the success of a plantation depends. Soon after transplanting the plants should be irrigated, for the purpose of setting the ground firmly round the roots. As soon as the plants have reached a length of 15 or 16 inches, one of the sprouts of each should be bent over in the centre of the bed, and covered with ground, leaving some three or four inches of the top free. These sprouts soon take root, and in a few months the whole patch is covered with luxuriantly growing plants. The sprouts not bent over have to be cut near the ground, for the better development of the roots. By the end of June, the stalks will have reached a height of three or four feet, when they should be cut, regardless of the value of the fibre. New sprouts will immediately make their appearance, eight or ten to each root, growing so fast as to be almost one inch long 24 hours, and furnish- ing, in six or eight weeks, the first fair crop of fibre stalks. The propagation of ramie is done not only by seed, but also by sprouts, cuttings, and roots. Not long after planting, suckers will appear in the roads. These should be cut after each crop, as the roads must be kept CA LIFOAAW/4. 179 free for irrigation and sweeping purposes. In the first year the ground should be kept free of weeds; after that the plant will perform this work itself, by suffocating them. In the Southern States ramie blooms during July and August, and seed ripens in September. Mr. Fremerey thus estimates the returns:—“An acre of land contains nearly 44,000 square feet, on which 20,000 ramie plants can be grown. On a two or three-year-old plantation, each root produces from 25 to 50, or even 60 or more stalks. I only admit 15 stems, growing to a length of six or seven feet. Sixty-five stalks of ribbons peeled dry, or green, will yield one pound of marketable ribbons (I only will admit 100 stems), at the rate of five cents per lb. I thus figure: 20,000 plants by 15 stalks equal 300,000 stalks; 100 stalks yielding one pound, this equals 3000 lbs. of ribbon; at five cents per lb., 150 dollars; four crops per year, equal 600 dollars gross returns per acre.” Mr. Fremerey counts in the expense of transportation to a decorticating machine at 16 dollars, and the cost of preparing four crops at 50 dollars. Mr. Walter Forbes has invented a chemical process, which, according to all appearances, is a complete success; and if it is simple, and cheap enough to be employed by the planters themselves, this expense must be carried largely to the profit side. Whether for nursery purposes or for cultivation, the land must be sufficiently elevated to receive the benefit of natural drainage; because the roots will not live long in a watery bottom. Land that is deep, rich, light, and moist sandy alluvia, is well-adapted for this purpose, The area of fertile lands in the magnificent Joaquin IS) THE [JR/T/SH COLONIST. . Valley, is nearly 7,000,000 acres. At the southern end of this valley, in Kern County, is situated the “ Miramonte Colony Association.” Kern County has an area of 8160 square miles, one-third of which is in the southern end of the Joaquin Valley, and the rest consists of portions of the Sierra and Coast Range Mountains, and part of the Mojave Desert. An extensive system of the Artesian wells is being inaugurated here for the purposes of irrigation. Some of these wells are said to be delivering from 500,000 to even 2,000,000 gallons a day. The lands of this “ Colony” are being offered at 600 dollars for 20 acres, including a perpetual water right for irriga- ting and domestic use, on the usual three-year-payment system, with six per cent. interest. The Southern Pacific passes through this country for 117 miles, and C. H. Street St Co., 4.-15 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, are the agents for this and the other colonies mentioned. It is not to be assumed that much, if any, of the land offered is of the fertile description of that in the choice valleys of California. Although much of the semi-desert lands may with irrigation be made productive, it requires something more than water to give good results, and the depth and nature of the soil must be critically examined before investing. Oranges, lemons, pears, peaches, apri- cots, nectarines, prunes, pomegranates, olives, figs, and grapes; also almonds, apples, and walnuts, are produced. The culture of raisin-grapes, white Adriatic figs, peaches, apricots, or Bartlet pears are recommended in this colony, as also vegetables and alfalfa. N o doubt, efforts will be-made to palm off comparatively worthless tracts of land ‘under the irrigation system. Inferior soil is dear at any price, inasmuch as the expenses of improvement CALIPORAWIA. 181 are equally as great, and the results will not be satis- factory. Mr. Ekin Smith, in a report to the California State Agricultural Society on the choice of lands for vineyards, says:—I purpose to confine myself to the consideration of vineyards for wine making, rather than for market- grapes, since the value of the latter for the market is governed more by size and appearance than by inherent qualities; and the very circumstances which produce size and appearance are often detrimental to the wine. Almost any locality in the interior of California can be made to produce fine market grapes. Not so for wine. First-class localities are comparatively scarce, and the area limited. Without doubt any vineyard can be im- proved by cultivation, but unless the physical aspect and chemical properties of the soil are favourable, a first- class wine cannot be produced. A soil rich in decom- posed organic matter will often produce grapes of a fine appearance, but the wine will have an earthy taste. This fact alone excludes almost all bottom lands from the list of good localities. Sands have not this objection, but are nearly destitute of mineral salts, and therefore cannot produce a high-flavoured wine. But the great- est of all evils is an undue quantity of potash, and this objection lies against nearly all lands not having sufficient drainage, and many hills, whose bed rock is composed largely of felspar. Common felspar contains from 12 to 15 per cent of potash, and enters into the composition of many of the rocks of our foothills. Granite, gneiss, and mica slate, contain about 40 per cent of felspar, which decomposes on exposure and sets free the potash. Where the hills are steep, and the drainage perfect, the 182 THE BAC/TVSA/ COLOA'/S7. evil is not so great, as the potash passes off in a soluble condition. Potash is an element of fertility, and grape vines absorb it largely, and thrive and produce abun- dantly with it in excess, but its effect upon the wine is pernicious. One of the prime essentials of good wine is tartar, and where potash is also present in solution, they readily combine and form a salt which is deposited on the sides of the cask. From this salt tartaric acid is made, instead of remaining in the wine, and we wait in vain for a fine flavour to be developed; it is neutralised by the potash. Lime is also an alkaloid, but having great affinity for carbon, is generally found as a carbonate; and while it is not desirable in excess, to make a still wine, is indispensable to make a first-class champagne, from the large amount of carbonic acid it affords. Soils having a substratum of magnesian lime- stone are not open to these objections, for although magnesia is an alkaloid, it is not soluble in water, and not known to enter into the composition of plants; but it is less fertile, and vines do not bear so abundantly. All lands having a subsoil of clay are objectionable; the roots will not penetrate it, and the vines are likely to suffer from drought, and it generally contains too much potash, as the clay is decomposed felspar. The richest lands in California, now all in a high state of cultivation, will be found in the regions of the old Missions established by the Catholic priests, ranging from the year 1769 to 1830. Each Mission was then a little principality, with its 100,000 acres, and perhaps 20,000 head of cattle. The tables of the padres were abundantly supplied with fruits, vegetables, and wines, and the stranger was entertained with unbounded hospitality. The old CA LZ/7OA.V.Z.A. 183 Missions are as follows: San Rafael and San Francisco; Solano, north of San Francisco Bay; Dolores, near San Francisco; Santa Clara and San José, near Pueblo San José; San Juan; Santa Cruz and Carmel, near Monterey; Soledad; San Antonio and San Miguel, in the valley of Salinas River; San Louis Obispo; La Purisima, Santa Yuez; Santa Barbara, and San Buenventura, near Santa Barbara ; San Gabriel and San Fernando, near Los Angelos; and San Louis Rey, San Juan, Capistrano, and San Diego, on the coast south of Los Angelos. The valley of San José in the Coast Range has the finest climate of any in California. It is 60 miles in length, and contains about 320,000 acres of splendid soil. From the summit of El Toro a magnificent view of the valley is obtained, and the ascent can be made on a sure-footed animal (about 45° acclivity). The valleys of Sonoma, Napa, Bodega and most of the Sacramento Valley, are equally favoured as to fertility, but those adjacent to the coast have by far the best climate; but it will require a considerable amount of capital to secure a farm in these favoured regions; from 500 to 1000 dols. per acre. After California was organised into a territory the wealth and power of these Missions excited the jealousy of the Government, and by a decree of the Supreme Government of Mexico in 1833, the Missions of Upper and Lower California were secularised and became public property. The following series of tables furnished by the United States Signal Corps exhibit the tempera- ture of the four citron belts of the Northern Hemi- sphere. 184 TA/E BAT/TASH COLOAV/ST. ITALIAN CITRUS BELT. Average Average Lowest Places. Yearly Temp. Winter Temp. Temp. Naples, ... • - 61.3 • - 48'5 •- - Rome, - - - - 60-7 - - 48.9 - - Florence, ... -- 58.8 • - 44-3 - - Pisa, • - - - - 60'4 • - 46.4 • - - Genoa, ... • - 60.4 - - - 44.9 • - - San Remo, - - - 60-1 • - 48.9 ... 23.0 Mentone, ... - 60.9 -- 49-0 ... 23.0 Nice, • - • • - 59.5 - 47.8 - - Cannes, ... • * * 59.5 • - 49.6 ... 20.0 SEMI-TROPIC FLORIDA. Jacksonville, • • • 69.5 • - 58.7 • - 19-0 Pensacola, - - - 68'4 • • - 55.7 - - 16:0 Sandford, - - - 71.0 - 58.0 ... 28.0 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CITRUS BELT. Poway, ... • - 50.3 •- 50.2 ... 21-0 Riverside, - 61:0 - - 50'4 ... 17:0 Los Angelos, - - - 60.5 - - - 50-0 ... 23:0 Santa Barbara, ... 61-1 - 54'0 ... 30.0 CITRUS BELT OF THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY. Sacramento, • - - 60-2 • * * 48:3 ... 18:0 Auburn, ... - - - 59.7 • • • 46.2 • - 18:0 Colfax, ... • • • 59.5 • - - 46.0 ... 18.0 Nicolaus, ... • - 62.0 - - - 50.9 - - - 18:0 Marysville, - - - 64'2 - - - 50-0 ... 18.0 Princeton, • • • 62.8 • - 48.2 • - 18:0 Oroville, ... • • • 64'9 • - 52-0 ... 20:0 Chico, • • • • * * 63-8 • • • 47.0 ... 18.0 Red Bluff, • * * 62.4 ... 46.8 ... 18.0 Redding, ... - - - 63-8 • • • 47.8 • - 18:0 Number of Orange Trees planted in Beetle County (and other - fruits), North California— Places. Oranges. Lemons. Olives. Oroville District, • * * 20,816 1,581 3,808 Palermo ,, - - - 40,348 5,124 13,646 CAL/AORAV/A. 185 Places. Oranges. Lemons. Thermalito District, ... 32,370 10 Wyandotte , • • - 815 57 Paradise 5 * - - - - - Olives. 5,181 7,800 5,600 94,349 6,772 Places. Figs. Nuts. Deciduous. Oroville District, 940 130 16,550 Palermo ,, 3,200 - 79,701 Thermalito ,, 961 859 5,843 Wyandotte ,, 3,105 302 13,697 Paradise , , - - - Rio Bonita , , - - 85,000 36,035 Grapes. 52,200 77,480 6,722 20,579 8,206 1,291 200,431 is 6,981 Shipments of Oranges from Southern California, on authority of Riverside Press, for 1888-89. San Bernadino County, - - - - - - 292,180 Los Angelos ?? - - - • * * 400,547 Orange * 9 • • • . . . . 92,896 Ventura 3 * - - - - - - 10,886 Total 796,409 Value to Growers, 1,373,716 dollars. ASSESSMENT SCHEDULE FOR 1889. boxes. No. of Acres of Grape-vines Planted. Places. Table. Wine. Raisins. Alameda, - - - 250 3,345 - Alpine, • • • – - - Amador, • • - 40 950 - Butte, - - - 506 111 295 Calaveras, ... 200 1,180 20 Colusa, • * * 531 21 - Contra Costa, 350 3,450 - Del Norte, ... - 6 - El Dorado, ... 300 1,485 - Fresno, - - - 183 3,800 12,182 Humbolt, • * * - - - - Juyo, • • • 16 25 - Kern, - - - - - - o - 3,595 990 912 1,400 552 3,800 : 6 1,785 16,165 41 100 186 ZA/E BAC/7/SA/ CO/CAV/S 7. No. of Acres of Grape-vines Planted. Places. Table. Wine. Raisins. Total. Lake, 450 950 - 1,400 Lassen, - - - - Los Angelos, - - - - Marin, - - - - Mariposa, - - - 64 Mendocino, - - - 200 Merced, 200 400 1,460 2,060 Modoc, - - - - Monterey, 500 - - 500 Napa, 265 13,630 - 13,895 Nevada, - - - 215 Placer, 1,814 380 484 2,678 Plumas, - - - - Sacramento, 1,525 5,138 225 6,888 San Bento, 17 133 - 150 San Bernadino, - - - 13,787 San Diego, 609 27 4,107 4,994 San Francisco, - - - - San Joaquin, ... 920 1,107 429 2,456 San Louis Obispo, 432 426 - 858 San Mateo, 80 700 - 780 Santa Barara, - - - 543 Santa Clara, - - - 11,375 Santa Cruz, 320 1,025 - 1,345 Shasta, 9 140 147 386 Sierra, - - - - Siskiyon, - -- - 4 Solano, - - - 2,160 Sonoma, 1,075 20,805 - 21,880 Stanislaus, - - - 550 Sutter, 94 51 504 649 Tehama, 427 2,145 - 2,572 Trinity, 200 - - - 200 Tulare, 4,350 2,495 - 6,845 Tuolumne, ... - - - 925 Ventura, - - - - - Yolo, 800 2,000 1,200 4,000 Yuba, - - - 215 Total 16,553 66,176 21,053 135,305 r88 THE BRITISH COLONIST. ULS. L‘T.\! Harrowing, four times, 1 00 Digging round Trees, 1 00 Pruning, 1 50 Total Second Year, 10 00 THIRD YEAR. Ploughing, Harrowing, Cultivating, &c., 8 O0 Digging round Trees, 1 50 Pruning, 2 00 Total Third Year, 11 50 FOURTH YEAR. Ploughing, Harrowing, Cultivating, Digging, &c., 9 50 Pruning, 2 25 Total Fourth Year, 11 75 FIFIH AND Srxrn YEARS. Cost will be the same, except a little more for Pruning, which will be 3 dols. ; or for the fifth year, 12 dols. 50 c. ; and sixth year, 12 dols. 50 c. Total cost, per acre, at six years old, 99 dols. 85 c. Numerous nursery catalogues this year place nearly all deciduous trees at 15 dols. per 100, and many as low as 100 dols. per 1000. There is ,a great difference in the cost of preparing lands. Heavy lands cost the most. Sandy loam much less. Profit is not generally so great, per acre, from a large orchard, as from a small one, proportionately. Some varieties come into bearing earlier than others, and at seven years will have produced more than those that mature slowly. This is notably true of peaches and apricots. Prunes come next in order of maturity, and cherries later. Apricots—Ten acres of apricots (Mr. Righter), at four CALIFORNIA. I89 . years old, yielded 75 dols. per acre. At five, six, and seven years old, including short crop, the average yield per year has been (for ten acres) 1,600 dols. Ten acres of apricots (Mr. Snyder), at five years old, yielded 800 dols. _ Prunes—Three acres, seven years old, gave 30 tons; sold for 1,200 dols. Mixed Orchard—Six acres (a variety), at five years old, yielded 700 dols. Ten acres of peaches, prunes, and apricots, four years old, yielded 150 dols. per acre.—(L. L. Natinger.) Larger returns are well authenticated: 600 dols. per acre from prunes; 1,200 dols. per acre from cherries ; and 500 and 700 dols. from peaches; but the Report classes them as exceptional. - It is the opinion of the San José Board of Trade, submitting this Report, that the State cannot produce more fruit than will find ready markets; provided the cost of transportation does not enhance the price to the consumer, so as to prohibit its use to a large majority of people. The Report of the Los Angelos Chamber of Commerce says, “that orange trees (budded) bear, with proper care, in four years, and yield 100 dols. per acre on the fourth year.” Discarding phenomenal returns, it is safe to say that from 500 to 800 dols. per acre are realised, under favourable conditions ; and from orchards in full-bearing, under favourable circumstances, from 1000 dols. to 1,500 dols. have been realised. The profits of deciduous orchards should yield, with intelligent management, 100 dols. per acre. The Report states that they can grow fruit against the world; but the profits depend on the I90 THE BRITISH COLOJVIST. rates charged for shipment. The Report further states that a large amount of land awaits purchasers at fair prices. At the World’s Fair in New Orleans, in 1886, the Riverside Fruit Company, it is stated, took first premium for the best collection, not less than twenty varieties from any State or foreign country. (It is to be noted that California oranges come in after the “Florida crop” is over, and there were probably no others to compete with.) Of the 1,000,000 trees returned by county assessors in 1866, as planted in the State, 95 per cent. were accredited to three counties—Los Angelos, San Bernadine, and San Diego. The range for the production of a fine quality of oranges in California is limited to the coast region, and the rich alluvial, or other soils, not parched by the dry, hot winds of the interior. The orange flourishes best in a warm, rich soil, composed of sand and loam, or sand and clay, not too dry, and sheltered from chilly and “ parching” winds; and it will thrive in any country with a mean annual temperature of 62° to 84°. The locality, favourable for its growth, depends fully as much on the soil and situation, as upon latitude; and if the temperature be sufliciently high for maturing the flavour, the fruit is delicious in proportion to the uniform salubrity of the air, and those high tempera- tures which often force a large expansion of fruit, deteriorate its quality. “It is remarkable how much cold and snow the common oranges and lemons will bear at Rome, provided they are planted in a sheltered situation, not much exposed to the sun.” (Dr. Seckler.) The Riverside District in the San Bernadine Valley is subjected to a temperature of 110° in the summer, and in CALIFORNIA. 1 19: the country (except where irrigated) everything is parched with the beat. A fine.flavoured orange is not likely to be produced here, or in other similar places. In comparing the quality of the oranges produced on the Island of St. Michael’s, in the Azores; and of Bahia, in Brazil, or some of the other West India Islands, with those of Malta, lying near the arid and sultry coast of Africa, it is to be noted that the former is always exposed to the equalizing breezes wafted across the Atlantic, while the latter is subject to more changes of season, and a higher range of temperature. At St. Augustine, Florida, a person who was the owner of a hundred standard trees, could safely rely on a yearly income of 2,000 dols., sometimes 3,000 dols. There were gathered from a single tree 6,500 oranges, but ordinary trees produce about 2000. At St. Augustine, the orange is of a superior quality, owing to some peculiar influence of soil and climate. The mean annual temperature of that place is from 72° to 73°. The extreme heats, from June to September, are usually as high as 92°; but they have been known to have reached 97°. The extremes of cold generally range from 38° to 40, but is sometimes as low as 30°. On the 9th of February, 1835, the temperature fell, it is said, to 10° or 15°, and nearly all the orange trees were cut off by frost. On the morning of the 9th January, 176-5, the thermometer stood at 26 at St. Augustine, and the ground was frozen to the depth of an inch on the banks of the St. John. BROWNE—TREES OF AMERICA. The cost of producing wines. Mr. Haraszthy, of California, estimates as follows: The average production I92 THE BRITISH C0/. O.V[ST. . through the State is about three tons per acre, which when made into wine, and kept till one year old, will yield an average of about 400 gallons. The cost of cultivation varies in different localities from 10 to 14 dols. per acre, which does not include the expense of fertilisers, or insecticides. The cost of gather- ing the grapes, and delivering them to the winery is estimated at two dols. per ton, or an average based on the above-mentioned yield, of 6 dols. per acre. The cost of crushing the grapes, and making them into wine, is about two cents a gallon, or eight dollars for an acre. This does not include the storage and handling after the wine is fermented and drawn into casks, nor of insurance, nor interest on the investment in vines, permanent improvements and casks. This shows a cost of 28 dols. for the production of 400 gallons, “average of the State,” on one acre, or seven cents per gallon. It would seem that wine-growing in California should be profitable, after adding most liberally to the cost for items not embraced above. Mr. Haraszthy gives a table of prices realised upon wines shipped from 1875 to 1857. This table shows an average of 55'7 cents per gallon, the highest being 62 cents, in 1876, and the lowest 45 cents, in 1887. “Unfortunately, our wine interests are so controlled by middlemen that the pro- ducer does not get his share of the profits; but time and better organisation among growers will remedy this.” Hr. Haraszthy has omitted the commission of the for- warding agent, and the expense of transporting the wine to the commission merchant, as well as the other items in the expense of producing wine. It is doubtful if the producer nets over 25 cents a gallon under the most I94 TA/E BA’/T/SAT COLO.VA.S.T. IMPORTED CHAMPAGNE. Dols. Jules Mumm & Co., Grand Sec, per case, qts, ... 29.00 Cliquot, yellow and white label 25 ,, ... 29.00 DOMESTIC CHAMPAGNE. Imperial, per case, qts., ... • - • - - - - 6:00 33 with “imported capsules” per case, qts. - • - - - - • * * 7:00 Wines of Rev. S. Parisis, New Mexico. By the barrel, per gal. - • * * • - - 1-40 Wines of John Moran, Los Angelos, Cal. By the barrel, per gal. • - • - - - - • - 0.95 Mr. Ross Browne remarks that he has seen wine re- tailing in San Francisco at 1 dollar 50 cents a bottle, while it sold at Los Angelos for 40 cents a gallon, or eight cents a bottle; grapes sold at eight and ten cents a pound, while the producer got only 75 cents a hundred; and fruit thrown into the Bay of San Francisco, because the fruit dealers could not sell it fast enough at five cents a pound, while the fruit growers would be glad to sell it at 30 dollars a ton. Boxes of choice fruit can be pur- chased of the jobbing dealers at San Francisco for two to two and a half cents per lb. What does the producer get now, not over one cent probably, and this fruit (grapes) is retailed to the consumers in the Eastern States at 20 to 25 cents per lb., the freight being about one and a half cents per lb. No people on the face of the earth submit to systematic robbery with such patience as the American farmers do. It seems well- nigh impossible to form any proper combination amongst them for their own protection, they are so disunited by party political strife, and every advantage is taken by I96 THE BIPITISH COLONIST. . Forsyth, 20 lb. boxes, 2 dollars 75 cents. Mr. C. H. Street 86 Co. give a market value in San Francisco of 2 dollars per box for what they call the ordinary commercial raisins, leaving only 75 cents per box for freight and commissions before sold in New York. California prunes, best, are 13 cents, and best French, 15% cents per lb. So far, California dried fruits are not equal in quality to imported fruits ; the seeds are too large and the skins too thick, and they lack the flavour. Probably a much larger profit can be made on the domestic fruits by the dealers, but considerable improvement must take place in the quality of the former before they can sup- plant imported fruits. The shipments of green fruit from California to States east of the Rocky Mountains for 1887 were: . Net weight exclusive of package, 11,363,020 lbs. Gross receipts, 675,864‘40 dols. Freight paid, 283'033'80 dols. Cartage, 6‘002'40 ,, Commissions. 67‘254‘40 ,, Gross Charges, 356'289'85 ,, Total net returns, 3l9'574'85 dols. This shows a net average of 2'8 cents per lb. by the producer, less the expenses of cultivation, etc., etc. It must be noted that only the best quality of green fruits can be exported from California, and it is doubtful if a sale can be made at all of a considerable part of the production, as any but the best would not pay for the freight and commissions. The quality of California fruit.-—All the green fruit CA LIRORAWIA. 197 shipped east is picked before ripe, and for that reason alone is of inferior flavour. Under the most favourable circumstances the fruit of California is inferior in flavour to that grown in the eastern States. The peaches and pears of Delaware and New Jersey especially are of much superior quality in a favourable season. The vegetables grown in California, while of immense size, and of particularly fine appearance, are very inferior in flavour to those of the eastern and northern States. Meat also is of inferior flavour, and vegetables, fruits, and meat in Oregon, and Washington, are of superior quality to those produced in California. Both in Oregon and California there is a quantity of ordinary fruit, every year, that is not saleable. Nurserymen supply inferior trees, and fruit culture is engaged in by persons who do not understand it. There always will be a demand for a superior quality of fruit, and fruit culturists should spare no pains, or expense, in starting an orchard on proper principles, and with the best varieties of fruit. The labour question is one of much importance in the fruit regions of California. The “Chinese Exclusion Act” will deprive the fruit growers of the cheap and efficient labour of the Chinamen, on which they have so far been principally dependent. The immense area of 20,519,920 acres in Southern California is considered adapted for cotton. It requires little moisture, and is well adapted for irrigation. The growing season is long, dry and warm, and the gathering may extend to January. The expense of cultivating is not greater than that of corn, except picking. The yield in the State has averaged # of a bale per acre. There are thousands of acres of land on the Lower Sacramento suitable for the I98 TIIE BRITISH COLONIST. production of rice, but without cheap labour these crops are not likely to be much engaged in. Dr. Gustav Eisen of Delano gives the following estimate of the cost and profits of figs. Cost of trees at the start, 15 dols. per acre, with expenses of cultivation about the same as given for other fruit. asrrnarz or RETURNS raon 10 ACRES or FIGS. - T rees set out at one.year.old. nors. At the end of first season, 10 acres, 700 trees, - 000 00 ,, second season, ,, ,, 10 lbs. each, at 2% cents, - - - - 175 00 ,, third season, ,, ,, 50 lbs. each, at 2.1; cents, - - - - 875 00 ,, fourth season, ,, ,, 100 lbs. each, at 2% cents, 70,000 lbs., - - 1,750 00 Total 2,800 00 At the end of the sixth season, 700 trees give 400 lbs. each, 280,000 lbs., at cents, equal 7,000 This is a very encouraging statement, but so far California figs are not in the market to any extent, and are not quoted at all. In the crystallised form, a few are sold at about 7 cents per lb. in 5 lb. cart0ns—in eastern markets. Supposing a settler commences with 20 acres of fruit land, it will require, at least, an ex- penditure of 4000 dols. in four years, including expenses of building small cottage, and all other items, to take him safely to the end of this term, when he begins to get an adequate return from his fruit, and henceforth he may, under favourable circumstances, get a net return of from 10 to 15 per cent. on his invested capital. This will, however, depend upon his judgment in the management of CALIFORNI/I. 199 his orchard. In all cases where a man has no practical knowledge of fruit culture, he should place his money in a “Savings Bank” on interest, and work on some good fruit farm, managed by an experienced and intelligent man, for one year. He can in the meantime select, or even invest in, a suitable piece of land for his own place. By adopting this plan he will avoid the very serious mistakes he is otherwise likely to make. Descending from the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the first view of the Sacramento Valley is very impressive, but the grandest view of all is to be obtained from the summit of the Butte Mountain in the country between Cosumne and Mokelumne, whose ram- parts of red volcanic rock tower 1000 feet. Its ascent is toilsome, but not very difiicult, at an angle of 45°. Situated about half-way between the plain and the dividing ridge of the Sierra Xevada, its summit affords a view of the whole country. The mountains within ten miles usually have snow on their crests, and the Sierra Nevada range is only 30 miles distant. At the base of the Butte the old mining gulches lie. On the west, the horizon is bounded by the Coast Range, Monte Diablo in the centre, and Suisun Bay making a gap in the chain. Between this blue wall and the rough region at the base, lie the great plains of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, 50 miles in breadth, and visible for more than 100 miles. The city of Sacramento is charmingly laid out, the streets running at right angles with avenues of oak and sycamore, affording much needed shade, for this is a veritable furnace in summer; the thermometer has even reached 120°, and ague, bilious fever, and dysentery prevail, and mosquitos never- die (hardly 200 T/IE /J‘/\'l T1511 C 0L ONIST. ever). From Sacramento the view on all sides is over a level plain, intersected with groves of timber, and bounded on the east and west by the distant ranges of the Coast and Sierra Nevada Mountains. The brilliantly illuminated streets of Sacramento at night and the soft, cool atmosphere are very fascinating to the traveller who arrives at that time, but after a little experience of the heat of the ensuing day, he will probably wish to move on to the sea coast. In the early days of Sacramento the perils of traversing the streets by night are thus described. “ Each man wore boots reaching to the knees —or higher, if he could get them—with trousers tucked inside; but there were pitfalls into which, had he fallen, even these would have availed him little. In the more frequented streets, where drinking and gambling had full swing, there was a partial light, streaming out through doors and crimson window-curtains, to guide his steps. Sometimes a platform of plank received his feet; sometimes he skipped from one loose barrel-stave to another, laid with convex side upward; and some- times deceived by a scanty piece of scantling, he walked off its farther end into a puddle of liquid mud. Now floundering in the stiff mire of the mid-street, he plunged down into a gully, and was ‘brought up’ by a pool of water; now venturing near the houses, a scaffold-pole or stray beam dealt him an unexpected blow. If he wandered into the outskirts of the town, where the tent-city of the emigrants was built, his fate was still worse. The briery thickets of the original forest had not been cleared away, and the stumps, trunks and branches of felled trees were distributed over the soil with delightful uncertainty. If he escaped these, the CALIFORNIA. 20! lariats of picketed mules spread their toils for his feet, threatening entanglement and a kick from one of the vicious animals; tent-ropes and pins took him across the shins, and the horned heads of cattle, left where they were slaughtered, lay ready to gore him at every step. In the main streets the revelry of miners and gamblers continued far into the night by the light of candles at four dollars a pound; the discordant sounds of brass bands and innumerable ‘musical’ instruments, added to the oaths, wrangling, and pistol shots of drunken revellers, made night hideous.” The Sacramento (lower) varies from 200 to 300 yards in width, and after rain, when everything is green, the banks are very pretty. Benicia, at the mouth of the Sacramento, 33 miles by rail and 50 by sea from San Francisco, is a very pretty place. The country gradually slopes back from the water, and the Napa and Sonoma Valleys back of it form one of the most fertile agricultural districts in California. The Sierra Nevada Range, in Southern California, is composed of a number of parallel minor ranges. The higher elevations are mostly bare and rocky, but the summits are more or less covered with pine and Alpine oak. Moisture is more abundant, and streams more copious in the higher elevations; but the wider coast valleys are, during the greater portion of the year, desti- tute of running water; the supply from occasional springs being evaporated in the very dry atmosphere. The altitude of the summit ridges varies from 3,000 to 5,000 feet. There is a scanty growth of pines and other cmziferw. Descending from the summit, small, luxuri- antly-grassed valleys, fringed with scattered pine and 202 THE BRITISII C0l.02VIST. oak groves, and watered by small streams, which are occupied by settlers, are passed. A descent to a lower level brings you into wider basin-shaped valleys, bounded on all sides by rocky ridge=. The streams spread out into sedgy marshes, and the pine growth is replaced by lowland .oak and nnderbrush. In the summer season you wind down broad valleys with the dry, pebbly beds of winter streams; herbage is dry and wiry, and water confined to a few willow-shaded marshes, or isolated springs. Along the foothills in this region large colonies of bees are kept, and immense quantities of honey are sent east from California. Continuing west, by a series of undulations and abrupt descents, you pass, almost im- perceptibly, the various ranges, till the smooth, brown outline of the Coast Range is reached. There is a heavy grade here for a short distance and then a rapid descent is made to San Diego. In a distance of 26 miles, after leaving the summit, a descent is made into the celebrated San Bernadino Valley, 50 miles long and 30 wide. It is fertilised by numerous streams, rising in the surrounding mountain ranges. Extending nearly due west to Los Angelos, this is the most fruitful region of Southern California, and very high prices were asked for fruit lands and established orchards during the “ boom ’'’ fever, the last attack of which was so severe. On the western slope of the Sierras the various streams are remarkable more for their number than magnitude. Their sources are near the summit, their volume being dependent on local rains and melted snows; they are at their height towards the end of the rainy season. As the dry season advances they decrease in volume rapidly, till in July, at their mouths, they become absorbed in their porous, CALIFORNIA. 103 . sandy beds. Some few streams, which have their sources in the higher mountains, with a more equal sup- ply of water, are excepted. The point at which the water ceases to flow in these streams is variable, and greatly influenced by the excessive evaporating power of the hot, dry atmosphere. During the night they flow farther down their channels, also more so in cloudy than clear weather; but in their beds water can usually be found a short distance below the surface. The descent of these streams in the rainy season may either be by a gradual process of saturation of their sandy beds, or it may be sudden. ‘ After a stormy night, the San Diego River suddenly made its appearance in the form of a foaming body of water, moving steadily onward, and filling its banks to their brim. The st-reams of the whole of Southern and Lower California, with few exceptions, have the peculi- arity of retiring into their sandy beds for the summer. There are, occasionally, springs in the lowest portions of valleys which furnish water for a limited area, and the mission of the very fertile San Louis Rey depended upon these for their fertility. The San Bernadine Mountains, which give the name to the valley mentioned, has the highest peak in California, 6,000 feet, and is about 40 miles from the ocean. Farther north, the space between the mountains and the coast becomes wider, sometimes reaching SO miles. The most important of the inferior ridges extends from Mount San Bernadino to the south side of the entrance of the Bay of San Francisco; there called the San Bruno Mountains. Be- tween this and the coast is the Santa Barbara Range, terminating at the Cape of Pines, on the south-west side 204 THE BRITISH COL0IVISTZ . of the Bay of Monterey. Bordering on the Bay of San Francisco is the Bolbona Ridge. The principal harbours of California are‘ the Bay of San Francisco, one of the finest in the world, Monterey, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, and San Diego—Santa Barbara is a very pretty place, 528 miles from San Francisco and 110 miles north of Los Angelos. The harbour of Santa Barbara is exposed to the violence of south-westerly storms. San Pedro is sheltered from the north-west, but open to the south- westerly storms. Twenty-five miles inland is the city of Los Angelos, and 126 miles to the south, by the Southern California line, is San Diego. The Bay of San Diego runs \.10 miles eastwardly into the country, and is separ- ated from the ocean by a flat, sandy island, on which is situated the “Coronado Hotel,” a large structure cover- ing some acres of ground, and one of the noted winter resorts of the Pacific Coast. By means of water con- ducted in pipes across the harbour, irrigation is supplied, and grass and shrubs cultivated. There are a number of pretty private residences, and it is a very pleasant resort for the residents of San Diego during the summer. The Coronado beach is in front of the hotel. There is nearly always a heavy surf, except early in the morning in summer, and during the south-westers it is very rough. It is always cool on this beach, and people who can afford it leave the inland valleys and spend the summer here, and at other resorts north. San Diego is pleasantly situated, and there are lots of hotels, but the fare is very bad, especially in summer, when mutton and beef are sup- plied from ill-nourished animals, the meat being very tough and insipid. Vegetables are, also, almost tasteless, and fish of poor flavour, and everything is badly cooked. CALIFORXVL4. 205 . The hotel-keepers have reaped a rich harvest here of late years, especially during the “boom-fever.” They seem to think that “climate” and “fruit” should satisfy their guests, and even the latter is of poor quality. The whole surrounding country consists of barren sand-hills, except here and there a fruit-farm, which is so covered with dust that it is diflicult to ascertain, without going very close, what is growing on it. Not a blade of green grass is to be seen, except in gardens constantly irrigated. Everything growing is covered with dust; the roads are covered with it ankle-deep ; and fleas abound, and their attentions to visitors are unremitting. There is little, if any, malaria of the ague-producing type at San Diego, and it is a pleasanter climate than Los Angelos in every way. As soon as the sun sets, it is cool, and a heavy dew falls, and there is danger of getting chilled. Even during the day, when the sun is very hot, it is dangerous to stand long at the corner of a street or in a draught anywhere, so cooling is the breeze. The influence of the climate is slightly relaxing, and persons unacclimatised will find even a moderate amount of exertion attended by a sense of fatigue. The water at San Diego was very bad, but improvement has been effected in this respect. The principal business of San Diego and Los Angelos has been hotel-keeping and real-estate gambling, but the collapse of the “boom” has made business exceedingly dull. Their principal imports are: lumber, provisions of all kinds, coal, clothing, furniture, hardware, “innocent cap- italists,” invalids, and drinking water. Her productions are, principally, sand, fleas, and real-estate sharks. Her exports are literary productions, containing thrilling 2O6 THE BA/T/SA/ COLO.V/ST. accounts of the climate, and the future, and the ease with which a man can make a small fortune on 10 acres of desert land, with a little water; which “old residents smile at.” “They have wealth in their ‘climate, and ‘harbour, alone.” People, however, usually require something besides climate to live on. “Where are the splendid pasture lands spoken of as good for sheep?” Experience teaches that sand and cacti do not make good mutton, and the carcasses of sheep ex- hibited in the butchers' shops at San Diego would do for Chinese lanthorns. The soil bakes so hard, that a crow- bar and a bucket of water is required to make a hole in it. Reverting to the Valley of San Bernadino, that is an oasis in the desert, but it is very hot and dusty most of the year. In a pamphlet issued by the “International Company,” it is stated, that the “average" value of culti- vated fruit land in this valley is 1000 dollars per acre, and that it pays 30 per cent on that valuation. At the time this pamphlet was issued, the Californian epidemic of “boom-fever” was at its height, and some allowance must be made for the “composers.” Persons desiring to invest in fruit farms in this valley will find opportunities at from 300 dollars to 500 dollars per acre. The best way is to get acquainted, quietly, with an old settler, and not let it be known you want to invest. When a man is making “30 per cent, profit" he wont sell; but you will not be troubled with many such cases. Even during the “boom” some fairly good fruit orchards were sold at much less than 500 dollars per acre, but you must deal with the owner, and not have anything to do with an agent, who, with the eye of a hawk, will “spot” you, on arrival. Spend a few weeks, or months if necessary, driving about 208 THE BRITISH COLOIVIST. would, otherwise, soon wither on exposure to the sun. The second year it is able to take care of itself, and the fourth year it arrives at full bearing. The roots then ramify so widely and reach to such a depth, that it is able to bid defiance to drought. It does not begin to fail in productiveness in less than five years. When this occurs it may often be restored to its original vitality by ploughing and thoroughlypulverising the surface; the por- tion of the roots remaining below the reach of the plough willput forth fresh shoots,and the field soon againbe cover- ed with it. “ When this grass is generally cultivated in the warmer climates, the northern and more temperate regions of this continent will lose their reputed superiority in stock raising.” The freshet out away the bank of acreek, exposing a section of an alfalfa-field. The roots of the plant had penetrated to a depth of from 12 to 20 feet; and were exposed by the washing away of the bank from the surface to the water-line. The diameter of the root at the crown, at the surface, varies fronf an eighth to half an inch. They taper gradually to the lower end, from which a cluster of roots or feeders put out. In the section exposed the roots were close together, but entirely disconnected, each one growing straight through the soil to the water, and producing on the surface a luxuriant branch of alfalfa ; which keeps green the year round. A farmer near San J osé sowed three and a half acres with ‘alfalfa, in February; and in September it was producing feed enough to sustain six milch-cows. Up to that time it had been cut twice. He thinks that ten cows may be supported when the grass has been fully established. A man who has noted the cultivation of this plant in Cali- fornia, for twenty years, has in no instance seen it succeed CALIFORNIA. =09 without irrigation, except on alluvial soils on the mar- gins of rivers, or low flats. The conditions of successful cultivation are, a friable, mellow, moist soil, easily pene- trated by the long tap roots, which should find‘a per- manent supply of water at a depth of not more than six to eight, and not less than three feet. The land should be thoroughly ploughed, and the surface crust well pulver- ised, and about 15 lbs. of seed sown per acre, and brushed in, but not covered too deep The sowing should bejust before a rainfall. An observer in the State of Alabama says, that although on clean land it does very well sown broadcast, experience demonstrates that under all cir- cumstances it does a great deal better in drills. Until two years old it is rather a slow grower, and needs the assistance of occasional cultivation to bring it forward successfully in its contest with crab-grass and dry weather. When sown in drills, from 18 inches to two feet apart, this can easily be done. It will not require reseeding for several years, perhaps five or six. Alfalfa is successfully cultivated in Oregon and Nevada; also it grows on Vancouver Island, B.C.; in one instance ob- served. It is, therefore, certain that it will stand a con- siderable amount of frost, when properly established. It is noted in .\'evada that the soil and climate seem to be well adapted to the plant. The subsoil is well drained, and every acre of sage-brush land that can be irrigated, after the alfalfa has become established, say two, or three years old, will produce from two to four times as much hay as the best bottom lands. A soil which seems to be destitute of vegetable matter will, when sown with alfalfa, in a few years be converted into at rich, black loam, filled ' with vegetable mould. The soil on land in which grain O 2lO THE BRITISH COLONIST. is sown, is sometimes blown away to the depth to which it is ploughed, while the land which is laid down to alfalfa is constantly catching and retaining it. In one instance a piece of land which was once rough, and rocky, was sown with alfalfa; now, the rough places are smooth, and the rocks are covered up with a fine, black loam. There is a constantly increasing demand for beef and other meats in the country; year by year the area of open pasture lands, affording suflicient feed, has decreased throughout the West, and with a constantly increasing population, and a diminished supply of stock, there is always certainty of a good profit and a “ home ” market for beef and other meat ; and the man who can produce this, under favourable circumstances, will make a larger profit on his investment, taking one year with another, than the majority of the fruit growers in California. There is little, if any, profit in marketing green fruit. The transcontinental freight charges are low enough, owing to close competition, but the local rates are very high; for instance, the charges on 100 lbs. of fruit for 50 or 100 miles would be as great as for that weight from San Francisco to New York, or other large cities in the east. On fruit consigned to eastern markets, there is first the cost of boxing and transfer to the forwarding agent who takes his commission. In the eastern cities, on its arrival, it is sold by auction, and after the freight and commission is paid there is often very little left for the producer; and on the slightest appearance of damage the fruit will be sold at a mere nominal price, although afterwards sold to the consumer at a very good profit to the fruit buyers, amongst whom there is a very good understanding. The cultivation of the olive.--Mr. CALIFORNIA. an Elwood Cooper, California, “ State Horticultural Society,” —considered the most successful olive-grower in the State, says: “I have, growing on my place, olive-trees in the black adobe, in deep bottom-land, in sandy-land, made from the wash of the mountains, in stony hillsides, and adobe hillsides, and in table-land, where the subsoil is probably twenty feet deep, dark clay; and so far as I have known,there is no difference in the bearing of these trees, or in the oil made.” Mr. Donders, of San Francisco, says: “Irrigation is always dangerous to the olive. The plant is sometimes benefited by it, but the quality and fineness of the fruit, never. Fifteen inches of rain, distributed inthc course of the year, is enough for the olive ; particularly when it commences to fruit.” The climate of Southern and, particularly, of Lower California appears suited to the growth of the olive, except that the rainfall is rather insufficient. “ Bose,” a high authority, says that every species of soil, provided it is not marshy, is suitable for the olive, but in fertile land it is often rather productive of wood, and that the best sort of soil is on dry, sandy hills, with a gravelly subsoil. At Cumberland Island, Georgia (State)—some olive trees were once subjected to a temperature of 19° F. without being injured, so it is evident they will stand a good deal of frost occasionally—much more than the orange. In moist, rich land it produces abundance of foliage, without fruit. In the propagation of the olive, raising by seed is only resorted to in order to produce new varieties, or as stocks for grafting, as the fruit from seedlings, although yielding a fruit of a more ‘delicate and higher flavour, is, usually, very small. Grafting improves the quality of fruit, but it is not so generally 212 THE BRITISH COLON/ST. resorted to as propagation by suckers, and cuttings. The last is the most practised. Limbs from an inch to an inch and a half in diameter are cut into lengths of from 12 to 15 inches. Trenches 5 feet apart and 6 to 8 inches deep being prepared, the cuttings are placed in them about 18 inches apart and in an oblique position, so that when the earth is filled in, from one to two inches will remain above the ground. On the exposed end a little gardener’ s cement should be smeared to exclude the water, and over the whole some moss or loose sand is drawn for some time, to diminish the evaporation. In dry weather the cuttings should be occasionally watered, until they have taken root. Until the third year nothing more is required than to cultivate among the young plants, and to train them to a single stem. When three years old, the young trees should be planted out in the usual way, at distances of 30 to 48 feet. In “ Languedoc ” 25 trees to the acre is the rule, where other crops are cultivated between the trees; but, otherwise, 50 trees to an acre. The holes should be made large and deep, and should be dug several months before the trees are put out. The subsequent cultivation consists in removing the suckers, trimming out the dead wood, in manuring moderately once in three or four years, digging round the roots annually, and in ploughing once a year the intervals, unless other crops are cultivated between. Much difi'er- ence of opinion exists, in France, on the subject of pruning; but unless it is deemed desirable to keep the trees low, for the facility of gathering the fruit, or to diminish the risk of their being blown down by high winds, all that appears to be necessary is to remove the decayed wood, and to keep the head of the tree moder- CALIFORNIA. 213 ately open, for the free admission of light and heat. On the coast, where violent gales occur, low trimming would be best, and the same evil will probably lead to the practice of grafting on seedling stocks, the tap root of which will insure the stability of the future tree. For cuttings, in their soils, the roots will be too superficial for safety. The manufacture of the oil is extremely simple, re- quiring no very complicated or expensive machinery. A revolving crusher for reducing the olives to a paste, and a lever, or screw-press, for the pressing of the oil from the pulp and stones; the latter being crushed separately, when divided from the pulp; bags of coarse cloth, or hair, tocontain the pulp, and vessels for receiv- ing the oil from the presses, and for separating it from the mucilage. As soon as the olives are ripe, which is indicated by their becoming of a dark colour, and soft, they are gathered by hand, and spread out over floors to the depth of a few inches. In this situation they remain three days, being daily turned, and the decayed berries carefully picked out. They are then placed in a triturat- ing machine, until the pulp is reduced to a paste, and is detached from the stones. The stones having been re- moved, the pulp is then put into coarse and strong bags, and placed under the press, which should be worked very slowly at first. From the press the oil, mixed with mucilage, runs into vessels half filled with water. After standing from 12 to 24 hours, to give time for the mucilage to separate from the oil, the latter is decanted into other vessels, and remains undisturbed for about 20 days. It is then ready to be decanted again, and finally put into the barrels in which it is to 2l4 THE BRITISH COLONIST. remain. During this period, nearly all the mucilage will have been precipitated, but the oil is still likely to be “ troubled ” until it has been exposed to the cold. The oil from this expression is of the first quality. The pulp, or cake, remaining in the bags after the first pressure, is then broken up, moistened with warm water, returned to the bags, and again pressed. The oil from it is nearly equal to the first, and may be mixed with it. The stones having been reduced to a paste by grinding, are pressed in the same way, and yield an inferior oil, of a harsh taste, and running rapidly into a state of ran- cidity. The quantity of oil which may be extracted from a given weight of the fruit is stated by M. Sieuve, “N ouveau Cours d’Agriculture,” as follows : 100 lbs. of sound olives gave 76% lbs. of pulp, and 22 lbs. of stones. The 76} lbs. of pulp, when pressed, yielded 21} lbs. of limpid oil of first quality. The stones having been ground, gave 6 lbs. 14: ozs. of kernel, and 14 lbs. 4 ozs. of woody fibre. The kernel and woody fibre gave 5:} lbs. of inferior oil. Together making 27 lbs. of oil from 100 lbs. of olives. The refuse of the manufacture forms a valuable manure. When the fruit is not sufficiently ripe, the fresh oil has a bitterish taste, and when too ripe it is fatty. The finest quality of oil is prepared in Provence. This is a virgin oil, expressed with great care, from the ripe fruit, immediately after being gathered, and before the slightest fermentation has taken place. Olives intended for pre- servation are gathered before they are ripe, and de- prived of some of their bitterness by soaking for eight or ten hours in a lye composed of one part of quick- CALIFORNIA. 2:5 lime to six parts of wood-ashes in water. They are then bottled in a brine of common salt and water, to which is usually added some aromatic flavour. The product of oil varies very much with the size of the trees, the character of the soil, and the fruitfulness of the season. In France they have large trees that are known to yield 40 to 60 lbs., or from 5.1; to 8} gallons of oil, when they give a crop, which is once in two years, and sometimes once in three. Small trees yield from 6 to 12 lbs. each. The mean produce of a tree in France is assumed to be 10 lbs. (1; gallons), and in Italy 15 lbs. (13% gallons) (United States measure). The produce of an orchard of 200 trees in Tuscany, for four years, was as follows: 615 gallons, 61 gallons, 164 gallons, 512 gallons respectively—total, 1352 gallons. In Italy single trees in a productive season have been known to yield 41 gallons (exceptional). The wholesale price of the finest im- ported olive oil in brls.,50 gallons (New York), is 2 dols.per gallon. For the south of France the mean annual yield ofa tree at full bearing is 1 gallon or 50 gallons for an acre, worth about 75 cents a gallon. Mr. Cooper of California, “ Report on Fruit Industry,” Board of Trade, makes the following startling statements: “ The only test I have made as to the quantities borne by an orchard—that is, taking all the trees—showed 122 lbs. of olives through- out the orchard—large trees and small ‘seven-years-old from the cuttings.”’ The best result in making oil has been 12.1; lbs. in one large bottle ; the poorest result was 10§ lbs. We have for the tree seven-years-old at least ten bottles of oil; and those bottles will sell readily anywhere and 216 THE BRITISH COLON/ST. . everywhere at a dollar a-piece; he further says—“ I was compelled to put up the price to two dollars—24.- dols. a casc—to keep my customers from quarrelling about it; and I am sorry to say they quarrelled about it just the same. As soon as I have enough, I shall put it back to 12 dols. a case. One dollar for a large bottle of oil is profit enough for an olive orchard.” " The number of trees is not stated, and it is badly expressed, and, seemingly, an effort to “boom” the olive industry in California. Mr. Arthur Young, speaking of olives in the south of France, and advocating their cultivation in the Southern States, says—“ It is presumed that the best mode of promoting the general introduction of the olive into this country will be to recommend the mixed cultivation. As the olive only begins to bear about the f6'llth’y€(L'T', and does not arrive at its full production before the 20th to the 30th year, few persons would consent to expend so much labour before reaping any reward. But under the mixed system, nearly the full amount of the usual crops is made, and the manuring and cultivating of the grain crops will be sufiicient for the olive trees, and the labour of planting the young trees is almost the only extra work they will require until they commence bearing.” The only crop which will grow in Southern and Lower California, without irrigation, is maize-—when planted on moist alluvium—which would not do for olives; and irrigation is injurious to them. With every respect for the great resources of this fine State,there is not sufiicient evidence to show that such phenomenal results are obtained, or that such profits are made by the fruit CALIFORNIA. 217 . culturist, as are suggested by Californians, whose eager- ness to colonise uncultivated lands, perhaps, leads them into involuntary exaggeration. During the late boom in Southern California an eastern man went out there for the purpose of residing and purchasinga fruit-farm. He was supplied with a very warm letter of introduction to a real-estate agent there by a mutual friend. Mr. A , after a short stay in the district, found a piece of property he took a fancy to, and adjourned to Mr. B——’s ofiice to ask his advice as to that and other investments he had in view. “ Well,” said his friend, Mr. B ', “the fact is, you ought not to trust what I say. I mean this —I have been so long in this ‘booming business,’ and my interests are so tied up in it, that I am not a safe adviser; but I’ll tell you what _l’ll do; I' will introduce you to Judge C——; he is the man to advise you.” It is worth y of note that the production of olive oil, in Italy, annually, is 70,000,000 gallons, valued at about 100,000,000 dols., considerably more than the value of the wheat exports of the United States for 1886. It is reported that labourers and mechanics are fully equal to the demands, but during the fruit-picking season . . _ and in harvest-time there is a rush for cheap labour which is then difiicult to obtain. The cost of fencing in California is an important item. A rabbit proof fence must be used, costing about 1 dol 40 cents per rod. Rabbits are very troublesome in Southern and Lower California. In the former the people became exasperated and effected a great slaughter in the follow- ing manner. A funnel-shaped enclosure of wire-fencing was made including seven miles of wire-netting. Hundreds of people turned out, and a large scope of country was 218 THE BRITISH COLON/ST. beat, and the rabbits driven into the enclosure. Seven thousand rabbits were killed in one drive, but they are so numerous that this will not suffice to relieve the country of the nuisance. LOWER CALIFORNIA. CONTENTS. GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE, 219–Bay of La Paz, 219–Ballenas, 220–San Sebastian Viscaino, 220–San Lazaro Mountains, 220–Cacachilas Mountains, 220–City of La Paz, 220–Valleys in San Lazaro, 220– Sierra de la Victoria, 220–Table Mountains, 221–Loreto, 221– Altitude of Mountains, 221—Stock Range, 222—Drought, 222– Grasses, 222–High Meza Lands, 222—Country between Rosario and San Diego, 222—San Andres Valley, 222–Rivers, 222—Cereals without Irrigation (growth of), 223–Plain between Todos Santos and Purissima, 223–Land South of Loreto, 223—Valleys of San Bruno and San Juan, 223—Valleys of Todos Santos, 223–Vine- yards, 223–Products of the country, 223–Fertility of the soil, 224 —Mineral resources, 22.4—Country on Magdalena Bay, 224–Cli- mate, 224–Hot Winds, 225–Malaria, 225–Effects of the Climate, 225—Rainfall, 225–Fleas, 226–Dangers of Bathing, 226–Price of Supplies, 226–Fish, 227—The old Missions, 227—Shooting, 227— Reptiles, 227—Timber, 227. THE peninsula of Lower California extends from the 23rd to near the 32nd degree of north latitude, about 775 miles in a direct line, and varies in width from 35 to 70 miles. The coast, irregular in outline, is a succes- sion of bays, harbours, and roadsteads. Most of these are shallow and exposed. Magdalena, about fifty miles in length and several wide, is the best. It is about 100 miles from Cape San Lucas, on the Pacific side. Nearly opposite to this bay is the harbour of La Paz, which is a fine bay and well protected from all winds, except the terrible hurricanes that blow in September and October. Eight or nine miles down the bay from the town is a 220 THE BRITISH COLONIST. . small harbour, sheltered on all sides, called Pichilingue. Half-way up the coast are two large bays—Ballenas, opening towards the south.west; and San Sebastian Viscaino, opening towards the north-west. Into the former empties the San Ignacio Lagoon, and into the latter Scammou’s Lagoon. These lagoons are two land- locked bays, with comparatively narrow entrances frequented by small vessels, but the channels are reported deep. The Port of San Quintin, lat. 33° 23', is said to afford a secure anchorage for a number of vessels. The Bay of San José, near Cape San Lucas, is a mere road- stead affording no protection from south-east gales. The portion of the country lying south of La Paz is the roughest and most picturesque, having the highest and most rugged mountains, and the deepest valleys. The San Lazaro chain starts as low hills near Cape San Lucas, runs north-east to the peak of San Lazaro, perhaps 5000 feet high, falls near Triunfo to about 1000 feet, and continuing north-east again, rises in the high and frown- ing masses of the Cacachilas, forming an imposing back- ground to the beautiful town of La P-az, as viewed from the bay. Small spurs run out from the San Lazaro chain down to the west coast, while eastwards, spurs and nearly parallel chains fill in the whole area to the eastern coast. Beautiful valleys lie amongst these mountains. The valley of San J osé del Cabo runs north- east of the high mountains, about 20 miles in length, in a high state of cultivation. Other valleys, smaller in size, but similar in most respects, occur; scattered here and there, and even on the summit of the high spur known as the Sierra de la Victoria is said to be a long chain of little valleys, with very rich soil, fine grass, LO WEA CAL/KORAV/A. 221 plenty of pure spring water, and bordered by groves and forests of oak and pine. North of this granite mass, and extending with sometrifling breaks to Santa Gertrudis, or San Borja, lies a belt of table mountains of sandstone. These almost everywhere commence on the west coast as broad plains, rising towards the north-east so gradually that, were it not for their being cut by innumerable canons which show their steadily increasing height, one might still believe himself to be but a few feet above the ocean. The regular elevation of the tables continues to within a few miles of the gulf, where a sudden descent cuts them off, with a face so precipitous that, except in a very few places, it is impossible to find a pass to reach the coast. Seen from the west side, the mountains look like a sea of flat tables, barren, and covered with loose stones; while from the eastern face they are steep, rugged, and so serrated as to lose entirely their tabular form. On this side, and adjoining the coast, are some good little valleys. South of Loreto for, perhaps, 20 miles, is a tract of level land bordering the coast, and in some places 2 miles wide; most of it covered with fertile soil. The spur which starts from San Borja as a chain of partially isolated hills, becomes more marked near the coast, and after passing San Andres, it assumes very respectable proportions, growing higher and larger, entirely occupying half the width of the peninsula, and connecting with the Coast Ranges of Upper California. East of this, and north of Santa Maria, the country is chiefly sandy desert with a few fertile spots. The greatest height of the mountains is estimated at 5000 feet; many of them are mere piles of broken rocks, while others are covered with grass, shrubbery, and small trees. 222 THE BRITISH COLOIVIST. A large portion of the country is rough, mountainous, dry, and desolate, and covered with cactus. As a stock country it has been very much over-estimated. The thorny nature of the undergrowth heavily discounts sheep raising, for wool purposes, and the country is subject to long continued droughts; sometimes for two or three years in succession. Bunch-grass grows in many places, and north of San Borja alfalfa, burr, and other clovers are found. Several plants of the acacia family withstand the drought, and on these the animals feed when the grass disappears. The principal of these are the mezquite and lipua—mules, horses and cattle feed on these and thrive, when there is not a blade of grass in sight. The high meza lands above the summit of the Gigantea, and between Gertrudis and San Borja, owing to constant fogs, are said to be never effected by drought; and cattle flourish. Between Rosario and San Diego, the country consists of a series of valleys, pretty well watered. In the San Andres valley, and the ad- joining plains of Santa Anna, is a good grazing region. There is a lake of brackish water, half a mile long, never dry, which animals drink freely. While the water in the ponds is nearly all of this nature, that of wells sunk -is, as a rule, fairly good. There are no streams worthy of being called rivers in the country; they are only a few feet in width, except some in the north, ad- joining Southern California. In the valleys of San J ose' del Cabo, Todos Santos, Cornondo, Purissima, San Ignacio, San Rosario, San Ramon, Guadalupe, and Fia Juana are permanent streams. The San Ramon and Rio Fia Juana have as much water as the Los Angelos River. Most of these streams sink on reaching the plains, and a system LOIVEA CALA-OAAW/A. 223 of carefully prepared ditches will be required to make the water available for irrigating purposes. There are many smaller streams than those mentioned, flowing perennially in the canons. At certain places cereals grow without irrigation, but it is in consequence of the soil being constantly moistened from a storage under- neath. In such places large crops are raised, and are spoken of by persons interested in attracting settlers, in a manner that tends to induce the belief that it is owing to a sufficient rainfall. On the west side, adjoining the Pacific, is a plain extending from near Todos Santos, to the mouth of the Arroyo of Purissima, about 175 miles in length, with an average width of 10 miles. About half of this is covered with good soil, but there is no water. South of Loreto, for twenty miles, there is a tract of level land along the coast, most of it fertile soil. Farther north, at San Bruno, San Juan, and south of Moleje, are broad valleys from nine to thirty square miles in area, of good land. In many canons off the plain of Todos Santos are fertile patches of soil. Nearly all the most favoured valleys and lands are owned by private parties and speculators, who ask high prices; or are already in cultivation. On suitable soil, when irrigated, enormous crops can be raised. Vineyards are every- where, and the grapes and wine are of superior quality. Tobacco, cotton, and sugar cane are extensively culti- vated, especially in the south. Several species of palms are natives, and the date grows wild. Plantains and bananas, figs, oranges, olives, lemons, limes, pomegranates, peaches, and in the northern parts, apples and potatoes, which, however, are of poor flavour, grow abundantly. Wheat, barley, maize and oats are cultivated in the north; 224 7A/E BA’/T/SA CO/O.MAST. also tobacco and alfalfa would yield enormously with irrigation, and afford abundant feed for stock. The difficulty will be to find sufficient water to irrigate the meza lands that are suitable for cultivation. So pro- ductive is the soil, under irrigation, that a few acres would support a family, provided a market could be depended upon. The mineral resources of the country, so far, have not proved remunerative. Lumber is brought from the North Pacific Coast and sold at a very high price. Coal has been reported in places where it did not exist. It may have been confounded with asphaltum. Gold, silver, and copper have been worked in various parts. Gypsum, in its crystallised form of selenite, occurs in many places. Salt is abundant, especially at San Quentin, Ojo de Liebre and Carmin Island, in the Gulf. The expenses of collecting, shipping and duties, however, have deterred people from working it. On the west coast, bordering the northern part of the Bay of Magda- lena, and the long arm which extends northward, are extensive plains nearly level, rising insensibly to the east, and, in great part, covered with rich soil. These plains, almost destitute throughout of the scattered stones on the surface which render so much land on the penin- sula valueless, are covered with a dense vegetation, prin- cipally a large species of cactus, but there is no water on the surface. The climate of Lower California is so mild that cultivated plants of both tropical and temperate countries grow side by side. The winter temperature averages from 60° to 70°. The maximum summer tem- perature will range from 85° to 110°. On the coast it is always cool after about 8 a.m., when the breeze com- mences, but back in the valleys it is very warm; and LOFVER CALIFORNIA. 225 when occasionally a hot easterly wind reaches any locality, it is positively welting in its effects. On the eastern coast, along the Gulf of California, the climate is unfit for any but the inhabitants of tropical countries. Up in the high lands and mountains, the climate will, of course, be more bracing, but the general tendency of the whole climate, no matter how agreeable it may appear for a short period, is towards relaxation and indolence. The British, or North American settler, will soon find he is more inclined to swing in a hammock, smoke, and eat fruit, and see others work for him, if he can get them, than to exert himself. In the valleys, where the richest soil prevails, it is very malarious, producing ague and a chronic bilious condition. Muscular exertion will be found fatiguing, and gradually a chronic state of indol- ence will supervene, which may very materially affect his financial prospects. Professor Agassis is reported as saying, touching the climate, that it was one of the favoured spots on earth. The International Company quoted this state- ment, and was unwilling to allow the thermometer to range beyond prescribed limits; but it does all thevsame, and the impression made by the climate on persons who travel about for a comparatively short period, -is very different from that made on a permanent resident. There is very little difference in the climate at San Diego and the northern portion of the peninsula of Lower California. At San Diego, in the city, on the lst October, the ther- mometer reached 100° in the shade; and back in the valleys it was reported as high as 110°. The average rainfall is from nine to ten inches during winter; there is none during summer. The whole country, as in 1) ALO/WEA CALIPORAV/.4. 227 whole coast of the peninsula abounds with fish. There are seals and whales; and the pearl fishery on the Gulf of California is valuable. In the time of the Missions, when very small portions of the soil were cultivated, the four districts of San José, San Antonio, and Todos Santos contained a population of 35,000. There can be no doubt the resources of a portion of this peninsula are equally as great as those of Southern California, and under efficient management, the country is capable of supporting a considerable population; but at present the great expense of necessary supplies would consume a large portion of the settler's capital at starting, and until the country is opened by railroads there will be no market facilities. The shooting in the country consists of quail in im- mense numbers, but very small in size; ducks on the lagoons, which are, however, fishy in flavour; and a few deer. In the sea the “bass” is said to abound, and would afford excellent sport. Rattle-snakes, scorpions, and centipedes abound. The timber in the country is scarce and small, except in the neighbourhood of streams; it is, however, durable, and said to be good for shipbuilding. There are some fine live oaks in places, the wood of which is very hard and heavy. NEW MEXICO. CONTENTS. AREA and resources, 228—The Rio Grande Valley, 228–Mesilla Valley, 229–Vineyards in Mesilla Valley, 230—Resources of Rio Grande Valley at Albuquerque, 230–Yield of Crops near Albuquerque, and Market Prices, 232–Cost of Fencing, Capital Required, 233–Area of the Maxwell Grant Company, 233–Cost of Labour, 234–Appear- ance of the Country, 234–Stock Range, 234–Las Vegas, 234– Climate, 235—Meteorological Record, 235–Irrigation, 236–Crops Raised by Irrigation, 238—Indications for Irrigation, 240-Rules for Irrigation, 241–San Luis Valley, 241–Valley of the Taos, 242 —Sierra Blanca Range, 242–San Juan Valley, 242—Sierra Mojada, 243—Maxwell Land Company in Colorado, 243–Price of Land in Colorado Valleys, 243–Fine Scenery, 244–Effects of the Climate, 244–Rattlesnakes,244–Cacti, 245–Railway Routes, 245–Shooting and Game, 245–The Sierra Madre Mountains, 245–Shooting and Fishing in Sangre de Cristo Range, 246–Purchasing Supplies, 246 —Rates of Interest, 246—The Angora Goat, 247–Description of the Inhabitants, 249–The Cowboy, 250. THIS territory has an area of 122,444 square miles. Mining and stock raising are the chief resources, the area of land suitable for cultivation being extremely limited, and confined to the valley of the Rio Grande Canadian River and their tributaries, principally. What can be accomplished on other areas by means of irrigation, supplied by Artesian wells, remains to be demonstrated in the future. From the town of San Elceario in Texas, 25 miles below El Paso, Texas, to the south boundary of the “Jornada"—a distance of S5 miles—the valley of IVE IV JIEXICO. 229 . the Rio Grande is from two to five miles wide, perfectly level, the river passing through it with many sinuosities. The soil is sandy alluvium, chiefly composed of dis- integrated material, and, although of no great depth, is very fertile, when irrigated; its fertility being main- tained by sedimentary deposits from the river. Shallow ploughing is necessary, or too much sand is turned up. Seven miles below the Jornada is the town of Dona Ana, the oldest in New Mexico. Five miles above El Paso the Rio Grande commences to make its way through the chain of mountains which intersect its course, and to a point in the neighbourhood of Molino it is bordered closely, on both sides, by a range of high and rugged mountains. At Frontera the range on the west side subsides into the vast level table-lands, which extend with little interrup- tion many miles to the westward; but on the east side the mountains gradually recede from the river, becoming more rugged and lofty, until they unite on the Jornada del Muerto with the continuous ridges of the Rocky Mountains. The river cuts through them, between Frontera and Molino, by a succession of rapids, and this pass was named by the Spaniards, on its discovery, “ El Paso.” Opposite Dona Ana is the Mesilla Valley, ten miles in length along the river, and from one to three miles in width. Fort Fillmore is, also, opposite, and some fifteen miles below Dona Ana. The valleys of the Mesilla and the Rio Grande, within the limits described, comprise the richest agricultural land in New Mexico. The products are wheat, maize, barley, beans, alfalfa, and all kinds of vegetables and fruits. Alfalfa will produce three or four cuttings each year, and five tons to the acre is an average NEW MEXICO. 23: for 30 to 60 dols. per acre; and unbroken land from 10 to 25 dols. per acre. The variety of grapes now in use in New Mexico is the “ Mission" grape, which makes very good wine; it is, however, rather too sweet for the table. The better varieties of grapes for wine-making have only been tried in an experimental way, but suffi- ciently to show that they can be grown successfully. The owner of a vineyard near Albuquerque states, that a fair yield from a good vineyard is about two gallons to a vine. With vines eight feet apart each way, there would be six hundred and eighty to an acre, which should yield at least 1000 gallons of wine. The selling price of wine at Albuquerque is from 25 to 40 dols. per barrel of -L0 gallons, according to quality. Allowing half the proceeds for cultivation and making, this would show a very handsome profit, and leave a good margin for deficiencies. The city of Albuquerque on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad, is well situated, and hav- ing a population of 8000. The city is supplied with gas, electric lights, water works and street railway. The population in Bernalillo County, of which this is the capital, has increased from 7,591 in 1870 to about 25,000 in 1889. The cost of living is rather high. Furniture and all manufactured goods are brought from the east, and lumber is very expensive, as high as 70 or 80 dollars per 1,000 feet, and houses are, therefore, expensive to build, and correspondingly high in rent. On the farms the adobe house is generally used. This is built of mud and straw, dried in the sun, forming the universal style of dwelling the Mexicans and Indians inhabit. The following average yields of some of the staple crops near Albuquerque are recorded :— A/;ElV MEXICO. 233 . the exactions of commission agents. A large quantity of cereal and vegetable products, as well as butter, cheese, poultry, and hay, is imported every year to meet the demands. Fencing is an important item in the establishment of a farm. Wire and boards must be used, and all material imported from the east. To fence in 10 acres will re- quire 160 rods of fence, and for 20 acres, 240 rods; which, at 1 dol. 50 c. per rod, will amount to 240 dols. and 300 dols. respectively. A man with a capital of 4,000 to 5,000 dollars (£800 to £1,000) could make a good start ; and a skilled horticulturist, with much less, by working for other people, would do well. The Maxwell Land Grant Company, Raton, New ‘Mexico, have an area of 1,750,000 acres in New Mexico and Colorado, upon which an extensive system of irriga- tion is preparing. Their land in New Mexico is, princi- pally, situated on the tributaries of the Canadian River,' many of which will afford irrigation. The company offer these lands at 10 to 15 dols. per acre, with the use of water—M. P. Pels, general manager, Raton, New Mexico. At the town of Trinidad, on the Colorado border of this grant, there are sawmills and a body of many thousands of acres of pine timber. A small pro- portion of this area is suitable for cultivation, and is to be found along the valleys of the principal tributaries: such as the Cimarron, Vermejo, Canadian, Rayado, &c. The fertility of some of this land is shown in the pro- ductions on a small scale. A cabbage weighed 4-5 lbs.; and a pumpkin on the Vermejo weighed _50 lbs. Irish potatoes are said to yield well on the mountain regions, 200 bushels to the acre of good quality. On the Rio 114 7111'; BR/7'/SH cox o.r/57'. . Grande they do not succeed in the Albuquerque district, and south of that. Indian and Mexican labourers work for 1 dol. per day, boarding themselves. In passing through New Mexico on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé route, the country is exceedingly barren and sterile in appearance, the sage brush and coarse grass growing in tufts, and the whole surface of the country is gravelly and rocky, and water is very scarce in most places. Little beyond this can be seen from the train. It is only on the Rio Grande the voyageur will see signs of cultivation. Immense herds of cattle and sheep are grazed, but are mostly off the line of railway, in the valleys and foothills of the mountains, and near watering-places. Stock-running has been overdone, as usual, and the pasturage has been eaten out in many districts. It is said one person owned 70,000 sheep in the Albuquerque district. The course of the railroad is a succession of grades, alternately rising and descending mountains of from 5 to 7,000 feet in altitude, which are covered with pine. Beautiful views are obtained of the highest peaks of the distant ranges. Between the mountain elevations, the railroad traverses immense plains covered with sage brush and cacti. These are useless except for grazing, the cattle eating the small variety of sage brush, which, however, imparts a peculiar flavour to the meat. East and a little north of Albuquerque, 132 miles on the railway, is Las Vegas, a beautiful district in the mountains. A fine hotel, admirably situated, is a great resort for invalids. The arrangements for the comfort of the guests are excellent, and there are many attractions in the neighbourhood; fine views and some trout fishing. The climate of New A'A' | V A/EX/CO. 235 Mexico is excellent, and particularly healing for pulmon- ary and catarrhal affections, in common with Colorado. It is an extremely dry climate, very little rain falling, and in some parts none at all, for, perhaps, two years; but sometimes there are very sudden and heavy falls of rain in the mountains (cloud-bursts), which send a deluge down the water-courses, and wash away everything in its way. In many parts traces of these deluges can be seen, where for months, and years, not a drop of running water is ever seen. In some seasons the rains are frequent and heavy in the El Paso district, and some of the adóbe houses have even been washed down. The follow- ing abstract of meteorological records are from the United States Signal Officer's “Reports.” Towards the western boundary of New Mexico the rainfall is less and more uncertain. - ABSTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL RECORDS. Mean Mean Dew. Highest Lowest Rain. Station. ". meter Ther. F., Point. Temp. Temp. Inches. Jan. San Elceario 26:20 463 31-0 | 67.0 47-0 0-004 Feb. do, 26°354 46.29' 39.19 ... ... 0-795 | Mar. do. |###0 JIT 479 810 295 0.015 April do. 26-295 67.0 45.2 87.5 40.5 0.092 May | Frontera 26:146 76.4 42-0 | 95.0 50.5 0.013 June do. £175 Sö's 36.6 | 103.0 , 59.0 0-010 July do. #1: 85.9 41.2 99.0 710 1,537 Aug. do. 26.206 84.1 ! 42-1 - - - • * * - - - Sept. do. 26:2:4 79.13, 57.89 92.0 650 1,052 Oct. do. 26:# 67.6 42.1 87.0 47-0 0-013. Nov. do. 26.233 50.8 36.6 | 73.0 25.0 0.211 Dec. do. 26'317 45.5 37.7 | 63-0 || 27:0 Dec. Near junction of Gila and | Colorado rivers 29.979 59.8 ... 72-0 || 48.5 | | 0 Feb. do. 29.937 Cso ... 820 530 236 THE BRITISH COLONIST. The elevation of San Elceario is 3,607 feet. Frontera 3,796 feet, and the junction of Colorado and Gila Rivers, 275 feet. The season in which the foregoing observations were made was a very dry one. It is nearly always bright and clear in this climate, especially in the more northern portion, and in the Albuquerque district. Even when the thermometer is in the nineties, the heat is never oppressive, so dry and pure is the atmosphere. In higher altitudes the nights are often frosty in summer, and rheumatic affections are prevalent. Innronrox. In New Mexico, where irrigation has been practised over one hundred years, and where considerable uneven land has been cultivated, terraces or benches have been constructed. It seems, however, that in course of time the best of the soil of the upper terraces is washed to the lower ones; hence much of such land has become poor. Mr. Hunt, near Denver, Colorado, gives his ex- perience with irrigation, and on land of this description, as follows :— “ My land being uneven, I experienced more difiiculty than those having even ground, and for this reason was compelled to divide it into small beds or lands, of 15 to 25 feet, with back furrowing to form a levee, from three to five furrows down hill, and finished up with shovel and line; and, when completely and deeply ploughed, dragging -.1, heavy stick of square timber, laterally, from end to end of each bed, until all the little elevations were dragged into depressions. I then harrowed it thoroughly, applied plenty of seed, and put AVE IV MEXICO. 237 a heavy roller over it. The most favourable time to seed is when the early spring rains are likely to fall; natural irrigation being far preferable for starting the seed. A top of dressing of fine, well-rotted manure is of the greatest advantage in preventing the earth from cracking after frequent flooding. In case the land descends in two or more directions, as is often the case, I divide these long beds into others of convenient size, each having a different level, and each provided with a bank or level, on the lower side, of sufficient height and strength to admit of flooding to the depth of two inches. If the descent is not too rapid, it is much better to level each bed so that the water can stand of a uniform depth all over it; but when this levelling will cut away too much of the surface soil, let the level be high enough to ‘back water” over the upper side. My main ditch is arranged to throw its entire contents with the biggest of these beds, through a sluice-box with a gate. A few minutes serve to fill this; while the surplus water is discharged into the next lower bed, through a box con- structed as follows:—Take three pieces of inch board, 12 to 18 inches wide, and two or three feet long, nailed together like three sides of a box; braced across the open or top side. In this box I fasten a stationary gate, coming within three inches of the top. The box I pack in the levee so firmly, that there will be no leakage around it, and of such height, that when the water has entirely covered the upper bed, the surplus will escape over this half-open sluice, falling in the box, before striking the ground; by which the force of the current is broken, and the water is thus prevented from tearing up the soil. By the same process a long succession of 2 38 THE BRITISH COLOXIST. . beds can be thoroughly and quickly watered, without labour and waste; and, also, be made to do service, while the owner is sleeping, and in case of rain, none is lost When the last bed begins to fill, I shut the main gate, and leave each of the series to soak away gradually. However, if the succession of beds is too long, the first gets too much water, and the last scarcely enough; therefore, it is desirable to have a sluice-box for each bed, independent of the rest, connecting directly with the ditch. The larger the bed, the better, for less land is occupied by the levees, and it is easier to work the land, and gather the crops. If possible, employ an engineer to determine and mark the level for beds and levees; for much time and expense will be saved by it. Clover once up and set, is safe from everything except drought ; and until it has grown enough to shade the grass some- what, great care must be taken to prevent its being burned by the sun and wind. After this, the water does the rest. My first successful experiment was with a small piece of land about one-eighth of an acre, sown half with red clover, and half with lucern. This piece supplied almost the entire summer feed for two cows, during three summers; being cut three or four times each season. In August, I sowed half an acre of red clover mixed with white. This came up and nearly covered the ground before winter set in. In the spring it began to grow nearly a month earlier than the common weeds, which had threatened to choke it ; and, at last, it smothered every weed and spear of wild grass which started amongst it. During the winter, while the ground was frozen,I had a fine quantity of manure scattered over it, causing a perceptible increase in its thrift. I A/E IV AZE.YZ.CO. 233 cut the third crop, September 15th, when it stood 12 to 15 inches high. From these crops I fed, from May to July 15th, two cows and an average of four horses, and since the last date, five cows, eight sheep, and four horses. The entire space occupied by the clover will barely measure two acres. No place in Colorado could be more unpromising than the very spot on which I made this year three crops of clover. The soil was be- low the average in quality, but was flooded ten or twelve times, and aided by a top spreading of manure. This system of irrigation must be too expensive for large areas, but I have taken from it this year more oats from one acre, thus treated, than from four acres irrigated in the ordinary manner.” In New Mexico, on level land, flooding is practised. The cost of irrigating canals will vary from one to three dollars an acre, and the cost of water supplied will range from 1 dol. 25 c. to 2 dols per acre. The following notes are from a farmer of ten years' experience:—In laying off ditches to irrigate a farm, we first make mains from the public, or company ditch, and in making them we keep on the highest land, paying no attention to section or other lines. Having our mains on the highest lands, we can easily irrigate each way from them. The mains being made, we laid off the field into lands or divisions, varying in width from one to twenty rods. The divisions are always by small ditches, which are made by running a furrow both ways, and following with a wooden scraper made like an A. If our lands or divisions were dry for a long time, we generally preferred to divide them by running another main through. Small grain is irrigated by flooding. Supposing your field ready—the main and AWE IV MEX/CO. 24I the water to touch the tree. Seeds should always be well rolled with a heavy roller or they will not come up. Sod land takes a great deal more water the first year. Water penetrates moist much more readily than dry soil, the particles of water having an affinity for each other. Mexican soil is usually of a black colour. Another authority objects to flooding on soil on which water is likely to stand, and he is in favour of making the ground as level as possible, and using a machine which causes the water to run in little channels—seem- ingly a good method. He gives the following directions: —1st, Plough deep, where soil admits of it; 2nd, Avoid “dead furrows” as much as possible; 3rd, Endeavour-to make your land level, and keep it so; 4th, Pulverise the soil thoroughly; 5th, Sow pure seed; 6th, Run your head ditches on a grade of not more than half-an-inch per rod, and five to twenty rods apart; 7th, Run the harrow in the direction you wish to irrigate; 8th, When the grain is up and well rooted, and the ground moist (not wet), roll at right angles with your head ditches; 9th, Commence irrigating before the crop begins to suffer from drought, and do not cease because there is a slight rainfall. The expenditure and trouble attending irriga- tion is a great objection to the average settler, but it has been demonstrated by experience that, by this means, crops are always certain, and the increased production will pay for the trouble, and it will be more extensively resorted to, even when the rainfall is in some seasons sufficient. One of the most extensive and beautiful valleys of New Mexico is that of the San Luis, extending into Colorado, hemmed in on either side by high mountains, Q 242 THE BRITISH COLONIST. and traversed by the Rio Grande del Norte and its mountain tributaries, skirted with bushes and a little timber. The Trenchara River, which comes in from the mountains to the east, is joined a few miles to the west by the Sangre de Cristo, and then flows on to the Rio Grande. A low stony mountain range, extending across the valley of the Rio Grande, separates the valley of San Luis from that of Taos. The Rio Grande passes through this range in a most formidable canon. There are forests of pines, and the views of the valleys, near and distant mountains, are very beautiful. The valley of the Taos is large, and extensively culti- vated. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountains, the Rio Grande both entering and leaving it by a gigantic canon. The mountain streams are large and favourably situated for irrigation, and the water of the river is also used. Through both these valleys, extending a distance of nearly 100 miles from the Sangre de Cristo range, there is little grass, the natural vegetation consisting of artemisia, and a variety of cacti, chiefly the prickly pear. The pines of the mountains extend well down to the plains. In the high, small valleys of the mountains the grass is luxuriant, and flowers beautiful, till trampled down by stock. Here showers are of daily occurrence at seasons, but in the broad valleys nothing can be raised without irrigation, as little rain falls. The Sierra Blanca range, of the Rocky Mountain sys- tem, extends nearly north and south to the east of the San Luis Valley, which is from 40 to 70 miles in width, and about 100 in length. The upper portion of the San Luis Valley, known as the Valley of San Juan, is rich NEW MEXICO. 245 Valley. There are several varieties of these, and various other snakes. The ground is so thickly covered with cacti in some places that it is diflicult to move without coming in contact with their thorns, and travelling is very tiresome, especially in the south-west. The Denver, Texas and Fort Worth Railway runs through the north-east corner of New Mexico and then on to Denver. At Cuchara Junction a line leads west into the Maxwell Grant country, and at Pueblo lines diverge to all parts of Colorado. From Lamy Junction on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fé Line, there is a branch to Santa Fé and Espinola (New Mexico), and a branch from that point north to Denver. The whole country is now intersected with railroads. There is still some fair shooting to be obtained in the various mountain districts in New Mexico, but taking pack horses and going into the remote valleys of the ranges, bears, panthers, deer, antelope, and grouse, and wild turkeys are to be found. So much skin and pot-hunting is done, however, that the game is very scarce in most places. In the Sierra Madre Mountains, seemingly a part of the Rocky Moun- tains divided by the Rio Bravo, S0lIr6 good shooting may be obtained. In a journey of a day or two from Fort Wingate, sport may be had, but that portion of the Sierra Madre which extends into Chihuahua and Sonora and west and south of Monterey in Mexico will afford by far the__ best sport. These mountains are not a con- tinuous chain with those of the same name in New Mexico and are sometimes called the San Luis Moun- tains. They rise abruptly from the plain about three leagues north of the parallel 31°20, and as they run south assume the most formidable appearance of a 246 THE BRITISH COLOIVIST. range on that parallel, west of the Rio Grande. They are called in Sonora and part of Chihuahua, the Sierra Madre, but do not entirely fill the conditions implied by that term, for the waters flowing from their base towards the Pacific Ocean often take their rise to the east of these mountains, and flow through chasms impassable for men, falling down the western slope in rapid descent, producing magnificent cascades. Through their whole extent, as far south as the parallel of Mazatlan, these mountains are said to be impassable for waggons. In the Sangre de Cristo range on the west of the “ Maxwell Land Grant” some shooting can be had. Game was abundant there, and trout were numerous in the streams. North-west of this range in the Elk Mountains is a good hunting country. Trout fishing also is to be had in the Sangre de Cristo. These mountains are subject to heavy falls of snow, and fishing is best in June and July after most of the snow-water has run off. Those who desire to settle in New Mexico or in the El Paso district, after selecting a place, purchase their sup- plies at some of the large cities east. The rates from Indianapolis, St. Louis and Chicago are about 3 dols. 50 c. per 100 pounds, or 296 dollars for a car-load of 10 tons or more. Supplies of every kind can be put on, and the Atchison and Topeka Company will grant favourable rates for passage and freight to a settler, on application to its agent. Real estate agents in New Mexico advertise for money to invest at 10 and 12 per cent. interest. It is not easy to get a safe mortgage anywhere in the country at such a rate, and it will be well to remember that these agents usually get a handsome commission from both borrower and lender, and are not over particular about NEW ./IIE X1 C0. 247 . the safety of the security, if they can get the money in- vested and secure their commissions. Considerable attention has been given of late years to the breeding of the Angora goat. Pure-bred Angoras are imported and crossed with the native goats, of which numbers are kept in New Mexico. At about the second or third cross the mohair begins to be valuable. There are herds of some thousands of the graded goats in Cali- fornia and New Mexico, and small herds of a few hundreds distributed through Oregon, and some in Washington. The climates of New Mexico, Texas, Arizona and California, are specially adapted to the pro- duction of a good quality of mohair, but the goats seem to thrive in Oregon, Colorado, Idaho and Washington. In New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and parts of Colorado, in rocky canons, where, on account of the difiiculty of getting at water, sheep cannot be kept, herds of goats do well, as they can range in places inaccessible for sheep and cattle, and where watering-stations, in a semi-desert region, are few and far between. The occupation of one would give an extensive range, without fear of encroach- ment by other herds. The goats are not interfered with by wolves, but the kids must be watched ; and panthers, occasionally, are destructive to the herd. There is a good deal of trouble connected with the breeding of the goats. The kids must be picketed with ropes and their mothers brought to them twice a day. The herd must be sheared twice a year, and supplied regularly with salt. Mexican herders must be employed, as they are used to the solitary life, which would be intolerable to most white men. One Mexican can take charge of 1,000 goats, or even more, except at kidding time, when an 248 TAJE BA/TMSA COLOAV/ST. assistant is required, and at shearing, when a party of shearers is employed. The clip of mohair from a first- cross would be only about 13 pounds, coarse, and worth only 6 or 10 cents per pound. Graded goats can be purchased at Socorro, New Mexico, at four to six dollars each, and thorough-bred he-goats 50 dollars each. The clip of mohair from a well-graded herd will be from four to six pounds, worth from 35 to 45 cents per pound, and the kids worth two dollars each : the annual increase being at least 90 per cent of the she-goats. In Mexico and New Mexico the flesh of the kids is much used for food, and is very good, but amongst Americans there is much senseless prejudice against it. It would be better to commence with a well-graded herd, as the mohair would then have a good market value to commence with, and most of the he-kids could be kept for the mohair. The cost of a Mexican herder would be about 30 dollars per month; the shearings about 10 cents per head. The cost of ropes and salt would not be much; and when a herd is well established and graded there should be a profit of at least 20 per cent on the invest- ment; allowing for contingencies. Although the finest quality of mohair requires a dry, warm climate for its production, a very good price has been obtained for clip- pings from the Oregon Coast, on which there is so much rain. The demand for mohair is increasing in North America, as the following figures will show: CONSUMPTION IN THE UNITED STATES. 1888. 1889. Foreign, • * * • * * 1,482,238 lbs. 1,720,432 lbs. Domestic, ... • • * 621,858 , , 685,106 , , NEW MEXICO. 249 The prices of domestic mohair are as follows :- Fine Combing, domestic, 45 to 50 cents. Fine Medium ,, 40 to 45 ,, Medium ,, 35 to 40 ,, Coarse ,, 30 to 35 ,, Carding ,, 14 to 16 ,, Burry ,, 10 to 15 ,, The imports of mohair in England, for 1888 and 1889, were 20,000,000 lbs. and 17,300,000 lbs. respectively, and the highest average price in England for 1889 was 19d. per lb., and 50 cents per lb. in New York. The total production of mohair in the United States is little over one-third of the amount used, and the quality of the best domestic mohair is said to be fully equal to the imported. At present home producers are protected by the duty on imported mohair ; but, in all probability, the duty on raw materials will be entirely removed, and then it will be doubtful how successfully the American mohair can compete with the imported in price. Of the importations in 1889 in England, 9,000,000 lbs. were from the Cape, and 8,300,000 lbs. from Turkey. The inhabitants of New Mexico consist of cowboys, miners, Mexicans, half-breeds, and Indians. The mer- chants are principally Americans, and most of the stock- owners, miners, and many of the cowboys. There is no danger to be apprehended from the Indians in the way of an outbreak, as they are under control of the United States troops. In the neighbourhood of mining camps, and at places where cowboys congregate, there is a very turbulent, rowdy element. Of late years a number of respectable young _men have taken to the business of cow-punching, as it is facetiously 250 THE BA/T/SA COLON/ST called, and it is to be hoped, but hardly to be expected, that a little leaven will leaven the whole body of cow- boys, for they are, as a rule, a blasphemous set of ruffians, and when under the influence of whisky generally want to shoot some one, and often do it. The towns along the line of the Atchison and Topeka Line in Arizona are much frequented by cowboys, and manslaughter and murder is of frequent occurrence. Some years ago, at Abilene, in Kansas, the town was set in an uproar by cowboys arriving from Texas with herds of cattle. They “ran" the town, to the terror of the inhabitants, who at length appointed a very resolute man as city marshal. Shortly after his appointment a drunken cowboy was observed going along the street, occasionally firing his revolver, and shouting that he was just off the trail from Texas. Just as he was about to pass the town prison, the marshal had got within reach, and, seizing him by the collar, bumped him into it, saying: “Here is the end of your trail, my friend.” In a very short time the mar- shal restored order in the town. TEXAS. CONTENTS. NoRTH-WEST of Texas, 251—Valley of Red River, 252—Soil, 252–Val- ley of the Trinity, 254–Country on Headwaters of the Trinity, 254 —WildTurkeys, 255—The Cross-Timbers, 255—The Wichita Rivers, 256—Resources, 256—Valley of Brazos, 256–Indian Depredations, 257—Wild Hogs, 257–Indians and Texans, 257—Character of the Texans, 258–Martial Law, 259–Indian Raids, 259—An Indian Massacre, 260–Capture of the Kioway Chiefs at Fort Sill, 260– Settlements on the Brazos, 261—The Clear Fork, 261–Game, 261 —Colorado River, 262—Mezquite, 262—Soil in Valley of Colorado, 262—The Llano Estacado, 263—Mezquite and Grama Grass, 263– Mirage on the Llano, 263–Crossing the Desert, 264— Lost on the “Jornada del Muerto,” 264—Valley of the Pecos, 264—Valley of the Delaware Creek, 265–Its Climate, 265–Apache Indians, 266– Drought, 266—Mountain Ranges, 266–Game, 266–Varieties of Fish, 266–Reptiles, 267—Treatment of Snake Bites, 267—Mode of Repelling Snakes, 268–The Pilot Snake, 268–Insect Pests, 268– Climate, 268–Errors of Diet, 269–Shooting in Indian Territory, 270—Indian Tribes, 270–White Renegades, 270–Comanche In- dians, 27 l—Their Horsemanship, 271—A Queer Costume, 272–Rio San Pedro, 272–Eagle Pass, 272–Rio Grande Valley, 273–Tribu- taries of the San Pedro, 273—Fertility of Soil, 273–Distances, 273 —Organ Mountains, 273—Hueco Mountains, 273–Guadalupe Mountains, 274—Altitudes, 274–Sierra de Los Alamos, 274–Geolo- gical Features, 274—Scenery, 274—Dust, 274 –Indian Raids, 275– The Filibuster, 275—No Man's Land, 276—The Cattle Range, 277 – Cattle Thieving, 277—The Cattle Barons, 277–Proposed Restric- tion of Free Range, 278. By far the most attractive portion of this immense State for the settler, is the north-west. The four great rivers o Texas—the Red River, Trinity, Brazos, and the Colo- IEXAS. 2 5 3 . and south of Preston the prairie and brush lands not in the immediate valley of the river have a black, waxy soil, very diflicult of cultivation, as it bakes and cracks; and, in wet weather, its tenacity is so great that it has to be cut out from between the spokes of the wheels of waggons, and travelling on the roads is terribly fatigu- ing. The general features of the valley and adjacent prairie lands to the Arkansas boundary on the Texan side of the river, are, as regards the latter, prairie and brush land, having a curious corrugated surface called hog.wallow, and consisting for the most part of the tenacious black soil before described; and, with respect to the former, a continuation of the rich alluvium of the’ valley proper. The roads through this section of the country are horrible, in winter especially, consisting of a succession of the pits, or hog-wallow formation de- scribed, which is most tiresome to man and beast. Pro- ceeding west from Preston, the character of the country changes. The “hog-wallow” formation is thankfully left behind; and the black waxy soil of the prairie and brush lands is replaced by a black, sandy loam, of great fertility, and admirably adapted to withstand drought. Cotton, corn, sorghum (a sugar-cane), sweet potatoes, and oats, are the chief crops raised. Next to the strictly alluvial soil of the river valley this is the richest and best soil to cultivate. The country is adapted to the cultivation of some kinds of grapes and fruits, such as melons, plums, peaches, and the small varieties of berries. On the rolling prairie lands south of the river and be- yond its timber line, is principally a brown clay loam, which produces well, if sufficient rain, but does not stand protracted drought. In the valleys of the various tribu- 254 THE BRITISH COL ONIST. . taries of the great rivers, there is the black alluvium on the banks, a black sandy loam, and a calcareous sandy loam on the flat prairies; the latter soil, however, re- quires more rain. Hot dry summers occur, which cause a failure of crops on all soils but the black, sandy loam and the alluvial; the ground literally bakes and cracks, forming deep fissures in many places. Dennison, in Grayson County, is the principal city in this portion of the Red River Valley. The settlement of the surrounding rich country has been very rapid and extensive of late years, and there is no chance of securing any cheap land of good quality. The valley of the Trinity, between the waters of the ‘Brazos and Red River, is about 117 miles in width, anl contains about equal proportions of prairie and timberel lands on its upper waters and tributaries; but a con- siderably larger portion lower down. It is a gently rolling country of prairie and oak openings, presenting a beautiful appearance; groves of oak timber are so arranged that each elevated summit affords beautiful landscapes of groves, parks and forests, with intervening plains of luxuriant grass. This whole region is inter- sected by numerous clear streams, tributaries of the upper waters of the Trinity, and numbers of springs of pure water. The soil is a brown, sandy loam of rich quality, and the whole country was covered with luxuri- ant grass, in some places growing three or four feet high. The region described is bounded on the north by the Little Wichita River, on the east by the Clear Fork and its tributaries, and on the west by the West Fork of the Trinity River. For the sportsman it was a paradise. Almost every grove of timber in the parks contained a 256 THE BRITISH COLONIST. . The first of these, the “Lower Cross Timbers,” is about 15 miles through, east and west, and commences 20 miles west of Red River at Preston; and the second, 8 miles across, is 40 miles farther to the west. The principal timber in these belts are the post oak, black-jack, ash, hackherry, pecan, &c. The three main forks of the Trinity are, the Clear Fork, the Elm Fork, and the West Fork. On the latter there is some very rough mountainous country; but north of this belt, intersected by its numerous tribu- taries, is the fine, rolling, park-like country before de- scribed, extending north to the tributaries of the Red River. North and west of the Little Wichita, and on the Big Wichita the country changes to a broken mez- quite and buffalo grass region, and except in the valleys of these streams and tributaries the soil is too dry in character for cultivation. This is a splendid stock country and especially good for sheep in many places, free from the thorny mezqnite bush, which tears the wool. A branch of the Missouri, Kansas, and Texas Railway extends to Henrietta on the Little Wichita, from which all parts of the region described can readily be reached. It is, however, already over-run with stock, and the fine pasturage eaten out in most places. Alfalfa would do well and other grasses also, if properly started, and this is one of the healthiest and pleasantest sections of the State for settlers. Maize and all cereals, and fruits of many varieties will flourish, and by going a few days’ journey some sport can still be had. Separated from the head waters of the Trinity by a dividing ridge, is the valley of the Brazos, extending 150 miles westward to the summit between its waters and those of the Rio Colorado. It is very similar in character TEX.-IS. 257 and natural features to the valley of the Trinity, but rather more heavily timbered to a point near the head of the Clear Fork. Fort Beluap, on the left bank of the main river, is 170 miles from Preston. The river opposite the Fort is 738 feet in width, with a gravelly bed, and with a depth of only a few inches in dry summers. The water is brackish and unfit for use, but stock drink it freely. East and west the country is gently rolling, dipping with a gradual slope of about 50 feet to the immediate bottom lands along the river. Bituminous coal of a good quality is found along the bluffs of the main stream. Pure water in abundance is found in the numerous tributaries which intersect its valley at inter- vals of a mile or two, and many springs are found throughout the country. In former times many terrible Indian outrages occurred throughout the district known as the Cross Timbers. Families were butchered with great atrocity, and stock driven off, and those settlers who escaped fled from .the frontier, leaving their hogs, which soon became wild, and roamed in bands in the forests, never foraging until dusk, or during the night, and afibrding good sport, as well as good meat, to the hunter, for their diet of grass, acorns, and the pecan nut gave a very delicate flavour to the meat. A most bitter hatred has always existed between the Texans and the Indian tribes; and acts of unprovoked hostility on the part of the former, were followed by terrible rcprisals. Indian marauding parties would range down as far as Fort Worth, and lower still on the western settlements, carrying off horses, destroying whole families, and sometimes taking away women and children ; and by rapid night marches, retreating in safety to their R 258 THE BRITISH COLON./ST. . domain on the head waters of the Red River. Many of the Texans were little better than the Indians. Feuds, marked by great atrocities, such as surrounding the house of some person regarded as an enemy, setting fire to it, and shooting its inmates as they escaped, have not in- frequently occurred; and cold-blooded murders of their neighbours were of 'common—and still are of not infrequent occurrence. All this country is now thickly settled, and Indian raids a thing of the past. The country has filled up with law-abiding eastern people, who have established law and order in the country; but occasion- ally the vindictive, bloodthirsty character of the Texan manifests itself in the perpetration of some atrocious crime on anyone who offends him. Many years ago, malefactors in the Eastern States, who, by their deeds, _made the country “too hot” for them, departed for Texas, and the letters G.T.T. would be marked on the doors of their houses. The descendants of these cut- throats are still to be found in the country, and resort to the old trade when they dare. After the war, the military government of the State was a great blessing to its peaceable inhabitants. An amusing incident occurred at a small town on the Trinity in 1870; Capt. ——, with a company of United States cavalry, being in charge of the district. The captain was sitting in the back part of a store, when a Texan rutfi-an, with two revolvers and a knife in his boot, having hitched his horse to a post, walked into the store. His first act—with a Texas howl—was to sweep off a lot of glasses and other articles on the counter, The store-keeper remonstrated, but the Texan, with vile language, told him he did what he d— pleased wherever TE.Y.A.S. - 259 he went. While this scene was being enacted, Capt. ——, who at once understood the case, had stepped out at the back of the store, and, fortunately, saw his sergeant, who was sent for a file of men to cut off the retreat of the desperado. Returning to the assistance of the unfortun- ate store-keeper, the captain suddenly presented himself to the astonished ruffian, covering him with his revolver. “Up with your hands.” The Texan saw the captain meant “mischief,” and complied, and at this time the sergeant and file appeared. “Now, my friend,” said the captain, “you will find that I am the only one who does as he d– pleases here; pay for the damage you have done, and then we will see what we can do for you in the “cooler’” (prison). The prisoner was disarmed and marched off. When the management of the Indians was handed over to the “Indian Bureau," the military was not per- mitted to pursue parties of marauders into the Indian Territory—bounded on the south by Red River, and ex- tending to about 100° of longitude, into what is called the “Pan Handle" of Texas. The officers of the Indian Department were jealous of any interference on the part of the military, and finding a most lucrative employment in handling the large appropriations made for this Indian Department, discredited the reports of the frequent raids made into Texas by the Indians, who, taking advantage of the situation, and being able by a forced march by night to escape across the boundary into the safety of their Re- servation, terribly harassed the unfortunate settlers on the frontier. At this time an exciting incident occurred. General ——, on a round of “inspection ” of the frontier military posts, arrived at Fort Richardson, on the West 7.E.X.A.S. 261 for them. Satank, who rejoiced in a most villainous countenance, strenuously objected to return to Texas, and commenced chanting his “death-song.” He had managed to secrete a knife under his blanket, and, with this, suddenly made a furious attack on his guards, and was at once shot and thrown out of the waggon. The two remaining chiefs were safely lodged in the cells at Fort Richardson, where, after remaining some time, they were handed over to the “State,” and were imprisoned, but eventually liberated. They ought to have been executed, but it seems that a fear of the terrible reprisals of the Indians, on the frontier settlements, had their chiefs been known to have been killed, induced this un- deserved clemency. The valley of the Brazos is well settled, also the Clear Fork—which has good water. The country drained by the Brazos and its tributaries is more uneven in its sur- face, and more densely timbered than the Trinity, to the east, or Colorado, to the west. Going west from the Clear Fork, oak and ash timber becomes much scarcer, until at the last tributary—the Double Mountain Fork— it is lost entirely. The Clear Fork is a running stream of 20 yards in width, with a narrow valley heavily timbered with pecan, elm, and other trees. Here was established years ago Fort Griffin, and at that time it was a magnificent stock country; mezquite grass, form- ing an elastic sward yielding to the feet like a rich Brussels carpet, covered the valleys and prairies ad- jacent, and horses would refuse all grain. The country abounded with game, and also innumer- able wolves, in attendance on the buffalo; bands of which wintered here. This whole country, however, TE.X.A.S. - 203 planking. The Llano Estacado is a high, nearly level, table land; elevated, at its highest line, about 4,700 feet above the level of the sea, and about 500 feet above the headwaters of the Colorado of Texas. It is 200 miles in width at its widest point, and extends from the vicinity of the 30th to near the 35th parallel of latitude. It is 125 miles from the head of the Colorado to the valley of the Pecos, and is destitute of timber and water on its surface. Beds of dark-red sand, and patches of hard, pebbly ground with a thin layer of decomposed gypsum, alternate. For about 30 miles east of the Pecos the surface of the ground is hard, and covered with grama- grass—“Festuca Macrostachya.” Beyond this there are patches of coarse bunch grass here and there. These grasses—the mezquite and the grama—of which there are several varieties—are most nutritious, and they can be propagated from seed, and in places supplied with necessary water might again be rendered valuable for stock. The name “Staked Plain” is derived from some Mexicans, who marked out a course over it, where there was some water at certain times of the year, in ponds: hence the name El Llano Estacado. During the middle of the day in summer, when the earth and adjacen strata of the air become heated by the almost vertical rays of the sun, an incessant tremulous motion in the lower strata of the atmosphere may be observed. This is mirage which so deluded the French army in Egypt, and is seen in perfection on the “Llano." Objects are magnified to an extraordinary size. A raven looks like a man walking, and an antelope like a man on horseback. The eye may be gladdened by the appearance of a beautiful lake, with green and shadygroves on the opposite 264 THE BRITISH COLONIST. bank. So perfect is the illusion that he urges his horse forward, thinking it strange he does not reach the oasis. At one time he thinks he is getting close, but soon it appears as far as ever. Cattle and horses are never at fault in detecting the presence of water. In passing large herds of cattle across the “ Llano,” a start was made on a moonlight night, after watering the stock, and filling up barrels for the use of the party. Halts were made during the day, and forced marches by night. A,t length—miles off, the jaded and suffering beasts, which, with parched tongues, could scarcely stagger along, would detect their approach to water. Nothing can, then, stop them, and a mad rush is made, and woe betides the man who gets in their way. The water reached, they plunge in and drink till almost bursting. Mules can endure thirst much longer than horses or cattle. Some years ago a party of United States cavalry were subjected to fearful suffering (on the Jornada del Muerto, in Mexico), going for some weeks without water; having to kill their animals and drink their blood. Their guide having lost his way, they wandered about and could not find water. All the horses died of thirst, but none of the mules, and when rescued many of the men had died horrible deaths. The valley of the Pecos is from two to four miles wide at the 32nd parallel, and is’ bounded on the east by the Llano Estacado,and on the west by table-lands gently sloping into it. The bottom lands are level and fertile, and the river running generally in a south-east direction, traverses it in numerous sinuosities. For about thirty miles,—and fifteen below the 32nd parallel,—therc are numbers of rapids; in many places with a fall of two or three feet The whole valley of 266 TH [5 [>‘A'1T1Sf{ COLONIST. ravines and gorges along the east face of the mountains, and on the ridges to the south, dwarf cedar. From the valley of the Pecos west, about 128 miles, are elevated table-lands, too dry for cultivation, but at one time affording magnificent pasturage _: with plenty of water in places, supplied by springs. This country was, not so many years ago, in undisputed possession of the Apache Indians, who ravaged the settlements in all directions, and drove off the cattle, but notwithstanding the danger, and constant enormous losses of stock, herds were driven there to replace those lost, only to share the same fate. The construction of the railways, and the consequent exodus of the Indians, led to the rapid settlement of the country, and enormous flocks of sheep and cattle so ate out the grass, that during years of exceptional drought, great damage was done to the ranges. The three ranges of the Guadalupe, the Hueco, and Organ Mountains, occupy the summits of these table- lands, and contain universal deposits of precious metals. On the west side of the Organ Mountains, which bound the valley of the Rio Grande, valuable silver and lead mines exist. Abundance of game existed in this fine country, deer, antelope, and wild turkeys farther south in the mountains, and along the heavily-timbered river- bottoms; also innumerable quail, and good duck shooting is to be had on the ponds, along rivers and creeks; but so much hunting has been carried on, that it is impossible to designate any particular portion of the country where sport could now be enjoyed. The Red River contains cat-fish, very good fish for the table. In the clear water tributaries of the Trinity and Brazos, on their upper waters, in the deep, rocky pools, 268 THE BRITISIJ C OLONIS T. a small hard rubber syringe. When bitten, put on a ligature between the wound and the heart, close above the former; a cord or a handkerchief loosely tied round the limb, and twisted with a stick, tightly, will answer well. Suck the wound well, which, if there are no abrasions on the lips, can be done with impunity. Then inject ammonia into the wound, and drink a quantity of alcohol, in any form. In camping out, if the hair lazos used by the Mexicans are laid round the tent or couch, snakes will not pass them; the hair causing intense irritation to their skins. One of the largest snakes of North America, the “Pituophis,” closely allied to the Heterodon, commonly called Bull, Pine, and Pilot, is found in this State. They grow ten or twelve feet in length, but are not poisonous, being of the constrictor variety, living on rabbits, and other small animals ; and are not numerous. Ants, mosquitoes, and other pests abound in the lowlands; and in some parts of the timbered country north of the Red River, which is, how- ever, in the Indian Reservation, there is a small tick which is a terrible scourge, invading the person in swarms. The climate in summer in the central portion of the State is very warm, and in places sheltered by timber sometimes very hot, and during the prevalence of a drought the thermometer will range considerably over 100° at times; but with cool nights the heat is not exhausting. All along the Red River and its tribu- taries, and those of the Trinity and the Brazos, except- ing the head waters and on the low prairies, intermittent and bilious fevers prevail, which in the vicinity of marshes or stagnant water are very severe, and occur 270 - THE BA’AT/SAT COLOAV/ST. people, to a great extent, live on maize flour bread, and bacon, with a great deal of fat—a diet more suitable to the Arctic regions than this latitude, in which wheat- flour, acid fruits, and fresh meat should constitute their food. Another injurious habit is that of drinking quan- tities of coffee, three times a day usually. In the country on the head-waters of the Trinity and throughout the “Cross Timbers” very heavy dews occur, saturating everything exposed. The whole country is now well settled, and there is no trouble from Indians, and law and order prevail to a great extent. Shooting and hunting in the Indian Territory, on the border of Texas, is now prohibited under a penalty of 500 dollars. Of the many tribes of lndians who used to frequent Northern Texas, the Wichitas, Wacos, Kechies, Quapasos, Chicka- saws, and Choctaws, have long occupied the Indian Re- servation. Some of the other tribes are extinct, and they were all held in contempt by the Comanches and Kioways to the west. They are civilised Indians now, and, in many cases, have acquired the vices of the white men in addition to their own. There are, however, many of them who are partially educated, and have made a good deal of money by farming and stock raising. Some of the half-breed girls are exceedingly pretty, and white men marry them to obtain privileges in the territory. Many of the Indians are superior to the whites amongst them, who are outcasts from society in the States. It would be difficult to find a greater set of scoundrels than the white renegades of the Indian Territory, who, driven by their crimes to seek refuge there, were often the instigators of “Indian" outrages, and there can be no doubt that many of the marauding expeditions into TEXAS. 27 3 . desirable portions of the Rio Grande Valley, both on the Mexican and the Texas side. On the latter, between Eagle Pass and the mouth of the San Pedro, the tribu- taries Las Moras, Piedras, Pintas, Locate, and San Felipe flowing into the Rio Grande are all clear, beautiful streams. There is an extensive area of land in this region within water level, which can be readily irrigated, and all sub-tropical fruits and cereals can be raised on the bottom land, and the surrounding uplands are excellent pasture lands. The roads are good, having a naturally good foundation, and the climate is salubrious. The distance from New Orleans, via Southern Pacific Line to San Antonio, is 577 miles; San Antonio to San Pedro (Devil’s River), 185 miles ; Devil’s River to Spot- ford Junction, 52 miles; Spof‘l'ord Junction to Fort Duncan (Eagle’s Pass), 35 miles; from Fort Duncan to the mouth of the Rio Grande is 49565 miles by river; Fort Duncan to mouth of Rio Pedro, 7112 miles; Rio Pedro to Rio Pecos, 4148 miles; mouth of the Rio Pecos to El Paso, 694 miles, by the river. The distance from New Orleans to El Paso by Southern Pacific, via San Antonio, is 1,209 miles. The country between the Rio Grande and the Pecos is intersected by three ranges of mountains, nearly parallel, with a general direction north and south. The first of these, the Organ Mountains, commences on the east side of the Rio Grande, one mile north of El Paso, and extends northward along the east side of the “Jornada del Muerto,” until it unites with the immense ranges of the Rocky Mountains extending to the north. Next to the eastward are the Hueco Mountains, 24 miles from the Rio Grande; this ridge unites itself with the Sacramento and White Mountains, 5 TEXAS. 175 . The settlement and development of the resources of this country, embracing the whole of the Rio Grande border, was retarded for years by the ravages of the Indians, and the constant feuds arising between the Americans and Mexicans. The predatory incursions of the Comanches and Kioways, accompanied by renegade Mexican half-breeds, in which large droves of cattle and horses were driven off, and the inhabitants murdered, were of frequent occurrence. In addition to this, the raids made by filibustering Americans kept the border in a constant state of warfare. The Texans never forgot the inhuman treatment received from the Mexicans, during their war with the latter, and lost no opportunity of retaliating. The following circumstance, which is well vouched for, will show the daring and reckless character of some of the Americans engaged in these raids. One mild summer’s ‘evening a party of Americans, among them a retired oificer of the filibusters, were enjoying the twilight on the bank of the Rio Grande, opposite a point where was usually posted a picket-guard, de- tached from a Mexican military station four miles distant. The guard of ten men were seen to approach the jacal, dismount, tie their horses, and stretch themselves on their blankets; some to sleep, others to smoke, but none particularly to watch. The conversation of the first- named party was rather of a jocose character, directed at the expense of the young American filibuster, who had joined in the Caravajal revolution, which had just been ended with such signal advantage to the regular Mexican ' troops. A little nettled, probably, at what had passed, he otfered a wager of 100 dollars that he would cross in a boat and take the guard single-handed. His wager 276 THE BRITISH COLONIST. . not being accepted, he offered to bet “ drinks for the party.” Some person, not dreaming he was in earnest, indiscreetly took the bet. The absence of _'the filibuster was scarcely noticed, and the conversation about other subjects had continued for nearly an hour, when it was interrupted by the sharp reports of a revolver, and a yell, which reverberated from shore to shore, giving the impression of many voices. These were quickly followed by the rolling of a platoon of musketry; and then all was silent. “Could that be S——?” asked one. “Impossible,” was the reply. “ It wouldbe just like him,” said a third. Shortly after, a boat containing two or three men was seen to dart across the rapid current, from the shadow of the high bluff on the American side. As it approached the opposite side, its occupants, not wishing to violate the usages of the guard, called out in Spanish they were “friends,” going over to see what was the matter, “Matter! Hell!” answered a voice in English. “Come here and help me to drive these mustangs in the river.” They found the guard dispersed, and S——with one arm shattered by a musket-ball; with the other he was try- ing to lead all the ten horses to the river-shore. There is a strip of public land, between the lines of Colorado and Kansas on the north, and Texas on the south, called “No Man’s Land.” It contains an area of 4,000,000 acres, and is watered by a tributary of the Canadian River, and contains some rich soil. There is a population of about ten thousand, consisting of cowboys, and out- laws who recognise allegiance 1.to no law, and find it a sanctuary. There is now a bill before the Senate to provide a Government for this community, much to the TEXAS. 277 disgust of the population, whose business of cattle thiev- ing, etc., will be much interrupted. .\luch of this region has been used as a cattle range. In former years, on the range in Texas, cattle stealing was common, and a rapid method of increasing a herd. Much of the herd- ing was done on shares, the cowboys getting a percent- age of the increase, for taking care of the herd. These calves they branded with their own marks ; establishing, and recording a “brand.” This formed the neucleus of a large herd, for, strange to say, the man who owned 20 cows could often find 25 or 30 calves belonging to them, which he proceeded to mark. The calves are at first marked on the ears, by slits, or notches cut out, and it was quite an art to obliterate another man’s marks, and put in his own. One stock owner caused consterna- tion by cutting off both ears as his mark, so that it was useless for others to put in fancy notches on one or the other ear, as both the marks and the ears were found re- moved. ' The privilege of ranging cattle, free of cost, over all open Government lands in the United States has been enjoyed for years by the cattle barons, as they are called. The Government has permitted this for years, without directly authorising the practice. The actual settler, a man with very small capital, has found it diflicult, in most cases, to range his small herd with any success in competition with the immense herds of cattle barons, who have hitherto had suflicient influence to prevent any hostile legislation. Having nothing to pay for the animals’ food, they have been able to make fortunes, and at the same time so to crowd the eastern markets with an inferior grade of beef, as to keep prices down to a NORTH CAROLINA. CONTENTS. PROSPERITY in the South, 279—The Negro, 280–Lawlessness and Dis- regard of Life in Kentucky, 281–Good Feeling towards English- men, 282–Cumberland Gap Mining Company, 282—Climate, 283 —Description of North Carolina, 284–Inland Navigation, 285– Water Powers, 286–Seaports, 286–Marl, Iron-ore, Coal, Lime- stone, Building-Stone, 287—Area of Timber, 287—General Descrip- tion of Soil, 288–Soil on the Mountains, 288–Description and Re- sources of Counties in the Transmountain Region, 289—Mitchell County,289—Yancy County, 290–Madison County, 291–Buncombe County, 292—Henderson County, 293–Transylvania, 294–Hay- wood County, 294–Jackson County, 295–Macon County, 296– Cherokee County, 297–Swain County, 297–Alleghany County, 298 —Ashe County, 298–Watanga County, 299–Clay County, 299– Graham County, 300–Rutherford County, 300–The Tryon Moun- tain, 300–Cleveland County, 301–M'Dowell County, 301—Rice Producing Counties, 302–Cotton Producing Counties, 302–Tobacco Producing Counties, 303–Cultivation of Tobacco and its Profits, 303—The Tobacco Worm, 304—Climate of North Carolina, 305– Character of the Mountaineers, 307–lawlessness on the Borders of West Virginia and Kentucky, 308 – The Hatfield. M'Coy Feud, 308–Comparison with the Cumberland Mountain Region, Kentucky, 310–Illicit Distillation, 310–The “Revenue Officer,” 310–Prices of lands, 311—Swamp-lands, 311—Marl, 31 l–Profits of Rice Culture, 312–Exhausted Farms and Low Average Produc- tions, 313–Cultivation of Grasses, 313–Grapes, 313–Wine-mak- ing, 314–Profits and Method of Making Vineyards, 316–Cultiva- tion of Fruits, 316—Vegetable, 317–Shooting, 317—Fishing, 318 Islands on the Coast, 318–Sea Fisheries, 319–The Red-Perch and the Bream, 319. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SOUTH, THE increased values of productions in the South, of late years, is remarkable. The “Manufacturer's Record ” 232 THE BRITISH COLONIST. and so serious has this evil become, that it is now pro- bable that the sentiment of the people will lead to the adoption of some strenuous repressive measures. “The Louisville Courier-Journal,” commenting on this subject, remarks: “Just now we are trying to discover a remedy for the reckless disregard of life that characterises the whole State of Kentucky. But the reckless disregard of the provisions of the city charter at home are just as worthy of consideration. We complain because the feuds in the mountains deter capitalists from investing in Kentucky; but the lawlessness of municipal oflicers, which has become common in Louisville, is just as injuri- ous to the welfare of the city.” Lawlessness and_' corruptibility, more or less, will be found in most cities in the United States, and no‘pre- judice should be formed against any of the Southern States in this respect. Southerners are hot-blooded and quick to resent an affront, and too fond of taking the law in their own hands, but they are generous and hospitable, and are not prejudiced against Englishmen, and those who are not fanatical champions of the negro will find their social relations agreeable. A place which is destined to be an important manu- facturing centre, is Middlesborough, in Bell County, Kentucky. This newly-established town is situated in the Cumberland Gap at the junction of the States of Kentucky, Tennessee and West Virginia, in a beautiful valley four miles in length, by three-and-a-half in width. This valley is level and contains about 6000 acres of fertile soil, and is surrounded by mountains, covered with valuable timber, and rich in coal deposits. The Cumberland Gap Association, composed of English and NORTH CAROLINA. THIS State lies between the parallels 3~i° and '36°'30', north latitude, and between 75°30’ and 8=L°'30', west longitude. The State is 503} miles in length from east to west, with a coast line of 314 miles. The Western Division, which has by far the healthiest climate, is mountainous, and consists of about one-fifth the area of the State— 10,000 square miles. It consists of a narrow ridge of mountains, and a plateau, in breadth some 20 to 50 miles, with a length of 200 miles; and ranging north- east and south- west, between the parallel ranges of the Blue Ridge and the Smoky Mountains. This plateau is the most elevated region of the United States east of the Mississippi. Some of the mountains have an elevation of over 6,000 feet. l\Iitchell’s Peak, on the Black, is 6,700 feet; and Chugman’s, on the Smoky Range, 6,600. The plateau is sub-divided into minor plateaux or basins, surrounded by mountains. The Blue Ridge, which bounds this plateau on the east, with an average eleva- tion of 3,000 feet, separates it from the middle region of the State, which may also be described as a low plateau, whose western side, at the foot of the Blue Ridge, has an elevation of from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, and is intersected by many spurs of that chain, 2,000 and 3,000 feet high, and many of them 20 or 30 miles long, and as high as the Blue Ridge. This region slopes gradually towards NOR T/I C.4l\’0LIN‘-I. 287 . northern line, derives a large portion of its business from this State. Marl is found only in the eastern section, but is abundant in some twenty-five counties; occurring in extensive beds, and easily accessible. Iron-ore of every variety is distributed over a wide area from the head of navigation on the Roanoke, being found in workable quantities in about thirty counties. The coal is bituminous. There are two beds, one on Deep River in Chatham County, the other on Dan River (upper waters of the Roanoke) in Rockingham and Stokes Counties. The thickness of the working seams ranges from three to seven and one-half feet. Limestone exists, but is not abundant. Building-stone, granite, marble, and black, white, red, mottled, brown, and grey sandstone, abound everywhere. Timber-—The United States census tables for 1870, give an area of 40,000 square miles of the 50,000 square miles of its territory, as still covered with forest. Among the most distinctive, abundant, and valuable species, are the pines, oaks, hickories, cypress, and juniper. Pines are the pre- dominant growth of the eastern section. There are eight species in the State, the most important being the long-leaf, the yellow, and the white. The long-leaf pine is found only in the eastern or sea-coast region; the yellow-pine abounds throughout the State; the white- pine is limited to the higher mountain regions . Of hickory there are seven species, and it is much used for firewood as well as for waggons and tool handles. Walnut (“black”) is most abundant in the middle of the State. Cypress abounds in the swamps and low- lands, forming the almost exclusive growth of several 292 THE BRITISH COLONIST. of the plateau. It is bounded northward by the Smoky Mountains, and its surface is very rugged and broken, being not only surrounded by massive chains of moun- tains, but crossed and cut up by heavy spurs of those principal chains. Its forests, soil, and agricultural productions are like those of preceding counties, except that yellow tobacco leaf is its ‘most important crop, nearly reaching 1,000,000 lbs. The population is 12,810 : white, 12,351, coloured, 4-59. Its area is 457 square miles—including 157,618 acres of woodland. Cultivated lands, 57,490 acres, or 19'66 per cent. of area. There are 1,626 acres in tobacco, giving an average of about 624 lbs. per acre (which is a low one).—Buncombe County occupies the middle portion of the French Broad Valley. Its eastern border lies upon the summits of the Blue Ridge and Black Mountains, and its western upon the summits of the cross-chain called the Newfound Mountains. The valley of the French Broad here is a wide, open basin, with considerable tracts of undulating and hilly land, and moderately mountainous tracts; while along its margin, on every side, are heavy moun- tain spurs. The average elevation of the French Broad plateau is about 2,500 feet. Agricultural products the same as other counties. Population 21,909; white, 18,422; coloured, 3,-L87. Area, 614 square miles. Wood- land, 226,454 acres. Cultivated lands, 1975 per cent. Ashville, the capital, built on the side of a mountain, and containing, perhaps, half the population of the county, is a fashionable resort during the summer for people from various portions of the'States, and especially the south portion of North, and that of South Carolina. Many of the southern planters and merchants have built NORTH CAROL/IVA. 293 . their summer residences in this, and Henderson, the adjoining county ; and there is good society for eligible persons with proper introductions. Ashville is the centre of two lines of railroads, the “Western North Carolina” and the “Ashville and Spartanburgh,” the former of which extends to Salsbury Junction on the “Piedmont Air Line,” by which line Ashville can be reached from New York in 24 hours ; '2.-irt Baltimore and Washington. Owing to the lack of a proper system of sewerage, typhoid fever has prevailed to a considerable extent, and the water is not good. Every effort has been made to suppress these facts- There is one large good hotel, the “ Battery Park.” Henderson County adjoins Buncombe on the south, and its topographical features are very similar to those of the latter, except that there are broader areas of comparatively level and undulating lands. There is a considerable area of bottom and swamp lands; that on the French Broad River being extensive and fertile, but subject to overflow. The soil is considered less fertile, on the whole, being a light-grey, gravelly loam, very thin in many places. There is a mixed growth of small timber, consisting of oak, pine, hemlock, and chestnut. Hendersonville, the capital, about 22 miles from Ash- ville, on the “ Ashvill'e and Spartanburgh Railway,” is very prettily situated. Ashville, although inferior in some respects as a sauatory, has monopolised the busi- ness of catering for summer tourists in the district, and Hendersonville is a dull place, composed of small, frame (wooden) houses; it is a mere village, but situated in a pretty country, at a little less altitude than Ashville. South of Hendersonville a few miles is the settlement 298 THE BA’/T/SAT COZOAWKS 7. even to the highest summits of the Smoky Mountains. These summits furnish good natural pasturage. A rail- road has been graded through its middle section, and will soon develop an extensive lumber business. Popula- tion, 3,784—white, 3,234; coloured, 550. Area, 445 square miles; woodland, 107,825; cultivated land, 13,828 acres; (486 per cent of its area). Total property value, 503,222 dols. State taxes, 115.86 dols.; county taxes, 4,666.29 dols.; school taxes, 1,291.65 dols. Stock— horses, 548; mules, 199; cattle, 3,210; hogs, 4,375; sheep, 3,192. Alleghany County is situated on the Virginia border and is bounded southward by the curves of the Blue Ridge. In its middle section is a parallel and higher chain. Its entire surface is drained northward into the New and Kanawha Rivers; this, with Ashe and Watanga Counties, constituting the New River basin; the only part of the State drained by the Ohio. It lies on the north-eastern end of the long, narrow, elevated trans- montane plateau, and has an average elevation of not less than 2,800 feet. Its forests are of oak, chestnut, and pine. Its soils are common grey and yellow upland loams. Along the banks of the New River and its principal tributaries, especially Little River, are con- siderable tracts of bottom lands. Its agriculture is divided between grain, grasses, and cattle-raising. Its population is 5,486—white, 4,967; coloured, 519. Area, 276 square miles; woodland, 74,859 acres. Cultivated land, 46,198 acres (26:15 per cent). Cattle, 4,822; sheep, 5,067. Ashe County lies in the north-western corner of the State, adjoining the States of Virginia and Tennessee; its south-eastern edge resting upon the summits of the Nor TH CAROLINA. 303 . Lenoir, Richmond, Robeson, Sampson, Wayne, Tyrrell, Martin, Mecklenburgh, More, Nask, Northampton, Pitt, Richmond, Rowan, Wake, Warren, and Wil- son. The number of acres in rice is 10,846 and the production is 5,609,191 lbs., or 517% lbs. per acre. . The area in cotton is 893,153 acres, and the produce 389,598 bales, an average of ‘43 of a bale per acre. The chief tobacco-producing counties are Rockingham, with 4,341,250 lbs., and Caswell, Granville, and Person, with from 3 to 4,000,000 lbs. Other principal counties are Alamance, Davidson, Davie, Forsyth, Iredel, Madi- son, Orange, Stokes, Surrey, Warren, etc. Area in tobacco, 57,208 acres; production, 26,986,213 lbs. ; average per acre, 417-17 lbs. The successful cultivation of tobacco requires a rich and deep soil, with the addition of an abundant supply of fertilisers. The following notes on the culture of tobacco are from one of the most successful and ex- perienced agriculturists in the States. The most valu- able grade of tobacco now grown in the United States, is produced in a portion of the Susquehanna Valley, in Pennsylvania, in Connecticut and Kentucky. Havana seed is used; the tobacco being darker and stronger than the light-coloured leaf of North Carolina, which, however, is much milder and pleasanter for smoking tobacco. The land on which the Havana seed-tobacco is grown in Pennsylvania is valued at 200 dollars per acre, at least, and in some places as high as 300 to 350 dollars per acre. The crop on ten acres gave a gross return of 240 dols. per acre, yielding 1500 lbs. of tobacco, which is at the rate of about 15 ccntsper lb. 304 7 HE ASA'/T/SAT COLO.VA.S 7. The expenses of cultivation, together with an allow- ance of 40 dollars per acre for manure, amounts to one- half of the gross returns, or 120 dollars per acre. As- suming the land to be worth 200 dollars per acre, interest at the rate of six per cent must be deducted from this annount, leaving a net profit of 108 dollars per acre. The average price of this grade of tobacco is from 13 to 16 cents per lb.; cured in the leaf. Tobacco, grown from the ordinary native seed, yields sometimes 2000 lbs. to the acre, but the average price is only eight cents per lb. The successful curing of tobacco requires great experience, as the crop can be easily damaged by over- heating in the drying-house. The plants are raised on a piece of rich, virgin, sandy loam, and, when a few inches high, set out in the field, and if the ground is not sufficiently moist, the plants must be watered at setting out. The great enemy of the plant is the tobacco hawk- moth, or horn-blower of Maryland, Macrosila (Sphinx) Carolina, Linn, which is a large moth, the caterpillar of which, commonly known as the tobacco-worm, is very destructive to the leaf of the tobacco-plant when the worm is young, by eating holes in the leaves, thus spoil- ing them for use as wrappers for cigars, and, when old, by devouring the whole of the leaf. The egg is de- posited singly on the leaf of the tobacco plant, and the young worm when hatched, by the heat of the sun, commences to eat holes in the leaf, and sheds its skin several times before attaining its full size; it then goes into the earth, and the pupa is formed in a subterranean cell, the late broods remaining as pupae all the winter, and coming out as the perfect fly the following spring. The insect appears from June and July until late in the 306 Z'HE ASA'/T/SAT COLOAW/ST. tropical on the coast to the temperate in the mountainous region. The annual mean temperature for the State is 59° Fahr. Mean for summer, 75°, winter, 43°; annual rainfall, 45 inches. The temperature for Ashville, eleva- tion about 2,200 ft., is given for the transmontane region as follows:—mean annual, 54°; summer, 71°; winter, 38°. The maximum temperatures recorded for July and August, on one day in each month only, were 87° and 85° respectively; but there are days on which it will reach 90° and even more. The heat varies with the altitude. On the high lands in Yancy County it is too damp and cold to raise maize, and considerably cooler than at Ashville. At an altitude of 1000 feet and under, the thermometer will occasionally mark 100° or over, especially when a thunderstorm is impending. There is a great deal of rain in the mountain region, during the spring and summer months, as follows:–March, 4:55 inches; April, 2.80 inches; May, 6'70 inches; June, 470 inches; July, 640 inches. The humidity of the atmo- sphere and the sultry weather preceding frequent thunder- storms renders the climate somewhat relaxing, at any but the higher altitudes—from 3,500 to 5,000 feet; and in the small valleys and basins in this region, sheltered as they are from a full current of air, the heat is quite oppressive at times. It must be remembered that it does not require a high temperature to produce this effect, and 85° (in the shade) will cause much more discomfort than 100° in Minnesota, Manitoba, or California. People coming from the sweltering regions of the South, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia and New York, the two latter especially, are charmed with Ashville; the nights are cool and pleasant as a rule, and after living in an oven it is a 312 7A/A /'A'/T/S// COZOA/AS 7. use of marl, will give satisfactory returns for capital in- vested. Rice is a profitable crop, when cultivated under favourable circumstances. Brunswick, the chief rice- producing county, gives a crop of 1,163,852 lbs., for 10,846 acres; or about 781:33 lbs. per acre, which, at 3 cents per lb., would give 23'44 dols per acre; and, deducting 8 dols per acre for the cost of cultivating and cleaning, we have a net profit of 1562 dols, per acre, not includ- ing the value of the straw, which is worth, at least, 10 to 15 dols per ton. Very much larger crops have been produced: 1,282.50 lbs. per acre, and a net return of 90 dols, per acre, at Mobile, Alabama, is recorded. North Carolina rice is the finest in the market. Rice planters usually retire from the very malarious influence of the rice lands while the crops are maturing: the cultivation must be attended to by negroes. A very successful method of cultivation is described by a planter in South Carolina as follows:—A plot of land, little over two-fifths of an acre, was planted with golden rice. The ground was thoroughly ploughed, cross-ploughed, and harrowed: rows eighteen inches apart were then laid out, with a bull-tongued plough, and seventeen quarts of seed used, covering and pressing down with a hoe, and with the feet tracking on the seed. In the middle of May the crop was hoed once, and the grass removed by hand; and then water was turned on and kept flowing through the rows until July 1st. Water was then turned off, land hoed, and then water turned on again, and kept running through the rows until the rice began to turn, when it was gradually drawn off. The crop was care- fully thrashed, cleaned, and measured, and the enor- mous yield of 56.50 bushels (of 45 lbs.) in the hull, AVOATH CAA'O/.../M.A. 313 was obtained, being at the rate of 13675 bushels per acre. Most of the upland farms in the State are in a more or less exhausted condition, and this prevails, to a con- siderable extent, throughout the lowlands. Cotton and tobacco are very exhausting crops, and require the liberal use of fertilizers; which has been too much neglected. There is abundance of marl, a most excellent fertilizer; and it has been found that the mixture of about three per cent of it with good stable manure, distributed be- tween the layers, increases its fertility 10 per cent. The liberal use of marl on depleted land, followed by seeding with clover, is one of the best and cheapest ways of restoring its fertility. The average production of cereals is an exceedingly low one; thus, that of corn (maize) is 12:15 bushels per acre; wheat, only 5 bushels per acre; and oats, 766 bushels per acre. Cotton, tobacco, rice, and maize are the only crops which offer a chance of re- muneration; at this rate, the three former require very rich, and naturally good soil, and the latter, the free use of fertilizers. On the uplands and throughout the mountainous regions, clovers, especially white, cocksfoot and other grasses will flourish, and the raising and feed- ing of stock will be a profitable industry. Grapes do well, and if cultivated to a limited extent, in the vicinity of new and increasing market facilities, will be profitable, and if a market can be obtained, wine making will also pay. The following varieties of grapes do well:—Con- cord, Catawba, Isabella, and Scuppernongs; the latter, only for wine making. Immense crops can be raised, but there would not be a market for the fresh fruit probably. The Concord grape, the hardiest variety, will bear enor- 320 7THE BA’/T/SAT COLOAW/S 7. St. John's River, Florida. Lord Cornwallis is said to have admired this fish so much that he considered South Carolina worth capturing for that fish alone. This fish is very shy, and the finest of tackle is required for its capture, which it resists desperately to the last. lt is a bottom feeding fish, and is excellent for the table, it is said. October is the best month for fishing. THE END. Cowan & Co, Limited, Printers, Perth. . . ‘. '5.‘ . | ...; _'§.nQ, ~S“OT/. . 31951 POO156 90 N W M F 0 9 R E N N U ll l 1 |~ l.~ ~lllllllilllll-lllllll lllll llllllllllllllll1llll . . ._ - _ . . . - Q \ . . 4 .... -.s .: ~ .. ..\- . ._._. \. -.su .- .. s .. 1 :4 .. v P ..-..._.. .. x»....> \.. \.~. ...... ...~.-.. .1-1.. _-.._ ‘Q.~~Q. -._~ - : u..‘. . s _Q.~. ., . .L. ..‘-0 Yo\ ... .,. ‘ \....... . ..; .. . . ;. A s .v. . . ... ‘B-. ..C .. u>‘--.> n ~ . Q; . ,. . . >0 . ...» ..,.> .,. _ . ‘. -. 10 -. ~.. ~... . 1&.. .1. \. ... .~ . . .~.. . . .~\‘.-.. ._-. 4.. s ~. .... . , . \l _.~.: .... 9: -L. . 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