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OUTFITTING—21, LEADENHALL STREET, E.C. CYCLING SHOW ROOMS—54, LIME STREET, E.C. WEST end branch. CyCLINC AND ATHLETIC—2, 2a, & 4, PRAED STREET, EDGWARE ROAD, LONDON, W. PRICE LISTS POST FREE ON APPLICATION, Of Outfits for Australia, New Zealand, India, China, Japan, Africa, Canada, etc., etc. Saloon and Steerage Passengers' Bedding, Luggage, etc., cleared and shipped. Outfits provided for every grade in the Royal and Merchant Services, Military and Civil Services, Apprentices, etc., etc. GOVS Premises are five minutes' walk from the Bank of England, and three minutes from Fenchurch Street Station. Customers arriving in London would do well to take a cab direct to Leadenhall Street, where their luggage can be left, and arrangements made for shipment. LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA FROM THE LIBRARY BEQUEATHED BY GOVERNOR HOLLIDAY 1 I I\ BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE TO NEW ZEALAND. EDITED BY E. ERNEST BILBROUGH, (Author of " 'Twixt France and Spain," ILLUSTRATED From Photographs by Messrs. Burton Bros., Dunedin; Mr. Josiah Martin, Auckland; and the Author; with Maps supplied by the Government Survey Department p{, ^ew, Zealaadj Jks.-&.?,. • • J#• - • •.• • • • •e a •/ • , J * • • j.>- • • • • * AUCKLAND, NEjtf'ZEA LA*b. \ . • J •• J' H. BRETT, FORT an!j /StiORTLAND\sXk*4lJTS. LONDON OFFICE: 147, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, E.C. TO BE OBTAINED AT THOS. COOK AND SON-S AGENCIES; AND AT THE OFFICES of the Union S.S. Company, New Zealand and Australia. 189O. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. A \ \ PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY H. BRETT, FORT AND SHORTLAND STREETS, AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND. KING TAWHIAO. V CONTENTS Preface page 11 Introduction—Plan of the Book—The Wonderland of New Zealand —The best way to travel through New Zealand ... pages 14—16 PART I. A BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH OF NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER I. Captain Tasman — Murderer's Bay — Captain Cook — Poverty Bay— Cook's Strait—Doubtless Bay—De Surville—Ngakinui—Marion du Fresne — Lieutenant Crozet —Vancouver — Admiral d'Entre- casteaux—Whalers—Phormium tenax—Intercourse with Sydney —" Boyd" Massacre — Te Pahi — Maori Traditions — Hawaiki — Ngahue—Cannibalism—Labour—Morals—Pomare—Heke—Manners and Customs — Tribes — Chiefs — Tapu — Tattooing — Barbarous Traffic—Language — Belief—Sports—War-Pahs—Republicanism- Sweetness and Light—Decline of the Maori pages 17—34 CHAPTER II. Revd. S. Marsden—Ruatara— Battle of Creeds—Hongi—Rauparaha— New Zealand Company — Kororareka — Mr. Busby — Baron de Thierry—Edward Gibbon Wakefield—Francis Baring—the "Tory" —Colonel Wakefield—Wellington founded—Captain Hobson— Treaty of Waitangi—Missionary influence—Birth of interlr- bian jealousy—Settlements — The game of Euchre — Akaroa— Wairau massacre — Gov. Fitzroy—Hone Heke—The Flagstaff — Gov. Grey—Taupo Landslip—Earthquake—Canterbury Associa- tion—Progress pages 25—32 CHAPTER III. Constitution Act—The "King of the Cannibal Islands"—Colonel Wynyard and Gov. Browne—New Provinces—Potatau, King of New Zealand—The King Maker—Waitara block—Native War— Waireke Pa captured—Sir George Grey supersedes Gov. Browne —Gabriel's Gully—Koheroa—Rangiriri Pa—Ngaruawahia occupied —Gate Pa disaster—Hauhauism—Te Ua—Moutoa Island—Hauhau^ defeated—Rev. C. S. Volkner massacred—Te Kooti—General Chute—Sir George Bowen—Col. McDonnell resigns—Col. Whit- more— Te Kooti escapes — Poverty Bay massacre — Sir Julius Vogel's scheme — Provinces Abolished — Te Whiti—Sir Wm. Jervois—N. Z. Shipping Co.—Bryce v. Rusden—Tarawera Eruption —Thos. Cook and Son—Lord Onslow appointed Governor—The International Exhibition at Dunedin—Scenic attractions pages 33—42 6 brett's handy guide PART II. A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE BEAUTIES OF THE COLONY. NORTH ISLAND. AUCKLAND. WAIWERA, WAITAKEREI FALLS, «tc. Harbour Comparisons—Mt. Eden—The View—Hockstetter's Obser- vations—Rangitoto—North Shore—Firth of Thames—Manukal- Heads—Lake Takapuna—"Three Kings"—Titirangi—Waitakerei Falls—Nihotopu Falls—Stud Farm—Howick—Ostrich Farm pages 43—49 HOKIANGA, KAWAKAWA, MONGONUI, WHANGAREI, WHANGAROA. Charming trip — Cradle of N. Z. History — Onehunga — Omapere— Hokianga — Pakanae — Onoke—Rawene—Herd's Point—Kohukohu— Maungunga—Horekb—Waihou River—Kawakawa—Nga Roku—Opua —Russell — Waitangi — Treaty House — Motorua — Whangaroa— Mongonui— Whangarei Heads — Parua Bay — Whangarei Falls— Abbey — Caves — Wairua Falls — Paroti — Kamo — Hikuranga — "Glorat" pages 49—56 TE AROHA, OKOROIRE, THAMES. Thames River—Hauraki Gulf— Morrinsville—Te Aroha—Waihou — Waiorongomai — Okoroire — Baths — Sport — Thames District- Mines—Giant Kauri Tree—Kauaeranga Creek—" Booms"—Tararu Creek—Tauranga pages 56—62 NORTH ISLAND WONDERLAND. The extinct Terraces—Routes thither—Ohinemutu—Sights—Haka— Baths—Sanatorium Grounds—Whakarewarewa Baths—Pareheru— Maunga Kakaramea — Bungalow — Waiotapu Valley wonders — Mokoia Island and Tikitere—Wairoa—Whakarewarewa—Battle feasts—Sodom and Gomorrah pages 62—71 TAUPO AND WAIRAKEI. Taipo — Tokaanu — Ruapehu—Ngauruhoe—Tongariro—Orakei—Korako —Tauhara— Rotokawa—Karapiti—Taupo—Joshua's Spa—Wairakei— Champagnu Pool—Great Wairakei Blue Lake—The Twins—Huka Falls—Terraces of the old River—Hot water Fern ... pages 71—78 WANGANUI RIVER AND KING COUNTRY. Ruapehu — Navigation — Upokongaro — Kaiwaiki — Athens — Moutoa Island — Corinth —Taumaranui—Te Awamutu—Te Kuiti—Field's Track—Wanganui—Fine country pages 78—80 TO NEW ZEALAND. 7 WELLINGTON. PONEKE—A COMPACT CITY—CHIEF SIGHTS—GOVERNMENT HOUSE—GOVERN- MENT buildings—View from Domain — Lower Hutt — McNab's Garden—Yachting—Rimutaka railway—Manawatu—Shooting and Fishing pages 80—85 SOUTH ISLAND. THE NORTHERN SOUNDS. Queen Charlotte Sound — Picton — Blenheim — Wairau massacre— Pelorus Sound—Picton—Comparisons of its beauty—A health resort—Excursions—Shakespeare Bay—Havelock—Mr. Redwood —Nelson—"Sleepy Hollow"—Excursions round Nelson—French Pass—Buller Gorge pages 87—91 CHRISTCHURCH. Its characteristics — Canterbury plains — Cathedral Gardens — Sefton Moorhouse—Lyttelton—The Heads—Otira Gorge—Akaroa s —Sumner—Lincoln pages 91—94 MOUNT COOK AND ITS GLACIERS. Aorangi—Mt. Sefton—Tasman glacier—The Hermitage—Ascent of Mt. Cook—Mt. Sealey—Moraine and Ice Caves—Beautiful effects —Governor's camp—A "bird" conversazione—Giant Ranunculus- Mountaineering opportunities—Swiss village pages 95—101 DUNEDIN. The best built town—Enterprising citizens—Port Chalmers—Agri- cultural county—Thrift—West Coast Sounds Excursion — St, Clair—St. Kilda—Nichols Creek—Taieri Beach—Union s.s. Co.— Colonial Bank—Jubilee International Exhibition ... pages 101—104 SOUTHERN LAKES. New routes—Lakes Wakatipu, Manapouri and Te Anau—Lakes North and South Mavora—Lakes Monowai and Hauroto, Poteriteri, Hakapoua and Lake Innes—Camping out—Comparisons—Detailed description—Mosquitos and Sand flies—Maori remnants—Possi- bilities—Hon. James Inglis: "A Wakatipu sunrise "—Lake of Geneva in comparison — Queenstown—Eichardt's Hotel—Green- stone River—Kinlock — Glenorchy — Terraces — Sheelite mine— Small excursions—Mt. Earnslaw—Alpine plants—the through trip—Lake Wanaka—Crown Range—Pembroke—" the Lady's Lake "— Makarora and Otatenui valleys—Guardian Peaks—Weka Island— Hawea neck—Mt. Aspiring —Symon's Crags—Glendhu Bay—Titan's Circus—Lake Hawea—Deer Stalking—Mt. Grandview—Goldmining v. farming—Lake Ohau—fine scenery—Morven Hills Station— Lake Pukaki—Lake Tekapo —Suspension Bridge ... pages 104—128 8 brett's handy guide WEST COAST SOUNDS. Dame Nature as a prodigal—Beauty unimproved—Preservation Inlet —Long sound—Characteristics—Comparison with Norway Fiords —Chief charms—" Sport "—Cook's discovery—Union s.s. Co.'s Pic- nic—Fish—George Sound—Lake Mary—Gertrude Falls—Lincoln Bay—Milford Sound—Heights—The Glacier Plough—The " Lion" — Stirling and Bo wen Falls — Arthur and Cleddax rivers — Sutherland Falls pages 128—132 PART II. (b). PRINCIPAL COACH ROUTES IN NEW ZEALAND. NORTH ISLAND. PAGES 1. Horeke to Kawakawa and Whangarei 184 2. Devonport to Waiwera and Warkworth 184 8. Oxford to Rotorua 185 4. Tauranga to Ohinemutu 185 5. Tauranga to Opotiki 136 6. Morrinsville to Te Aroha 186 7. Thames to Tauranga and Te Aroha 136 a Rotorua to Taupo 187 9. Lichfield to Taupo ... ... 188 10. Taupo to Napier 188 11. Woodville to Palmerston, via Manawatu Gorge 189 12. Woodville to Eketahuna, via Forty mile Bush 140 SOUTH ISLAND. 1. Blenheim to Nelson 141 2. Nelson to Grevmouth and Westport, via The Buller Gorge 141 8. Springfield to Kumara and Hokitika, via The Otira Gorge 142 4. CULVERDEN TO HANMER SPRINGS 144 S. Little River to Akaroa 144 6. Fairlie Creek to Aorangi (Mt. Cook) 144 7. Palmerston to Naseby and Clyde 146 8. Lawrence to Pembroke, via Cromwell 146 9. Pembroke to Queenstown 147 10. Cromwell to Queenstown 148 11. Lumsden to Lakes Manapouri and Te Anal 148 TO NEW ZEALAND. PART III. A Directory of all the Cities, Towns, and Townships, Villages, and Scenic resorts in the Colony, with their Hotels, Clubs, Objects of Interest, Churches, Schools, and Excursions Starting there- from. Also Ports of call en route to New Zealand pages 149—tZ3 PART IV. An Alphabetical Directory of the Health resorts of New Zealand, including special articles written for this volume on Rotorua, Whakarewarewa and Te Aroha, by Dr. T. Hope Lewis, M.R.C.S.Ehg., formerly resident Physician at the Government Sanatorium, Rotorua pages 237—256 PART V. SKELETON ROUTES TO AND IN NEW ZEALAND, TABLES OF DISTANCES AND TOWNS. England to New Zealand—America to New Zealand—Skeleton Routes in New Zealand—Table of Distances by Sea—Table of Distances by Road and Rail—Circular Tours with Cost—Tours from New Zealand Ports pages 257—2S0 PART VI. GENERAL INFORMATION. Nature of Country—Position—Area—Population—Physical Features —Names of Counties—Urban and Rural population—Boroughs— General areas—Land tenure—Conditions of purchase—Acreage under cultivation—mlmng—thermal springs—various Baths— Meteorology—Postal information—Money orders — Telegraphic information—vegetation—minerals—pastoral pursuits—wool— Frozen meat—Animal life—Climate—Temperaturk—Comparison of Climate—Rainfall—Principal Ferns of New Zealand—Coach Time- table—Union s.s. Co.'s Summer Time-table pages 281—31 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. No. Names. Page I. King Tawhiao Frontispiece {From photo by Josiah Martin, Auckland.) ii. Monument, ok Maori Tomb 21 in. Auckland Wharf 42 (From photo by Burton Bros., Dunedin.) iv. Mount Eden, an Extinct Volcano 44 v. Albert Park 45 (From photo by Burton Bros., Dunedin.) vi. Mount Albert, an Extinct Volcano 47 vii. The North Shore, Auckland 48 viii. Waitangi Falls, Bay of Islands 51 x. Whangaroa Harbour, Auckland 53 x. Bay of Islands 55 xi. Maori (Taipara's Meeting House) 57 xn. Kauri Tree 60 xni. Timber Clearing in Thames District 61 xiv. Ohinemutu 68 xv. Pink and White Terraces 65 xvi. Tiki Tere Mud Springs 66 xvii. Bathing in Hot Lakes 68 xviii. Camping Out, Lake Tarawera 70 xix. Source Upper Waikato River 72 XX. TONGARIRO AND NGAURUHOE 78 xxi. Crow's Nest (Hot Lakes) 74 xxii. River Waikato, from Lake Taupo 75 xxiii. River Waikato, Hot Lake District 76 xxiv. Wanganui (Town and Bridge) 79 xxv. Wellington City 81 {From photo by Burton Bros., Dunedin.) xxvi. Evening at Wellington 88 xxvu. Parihaka (Native Settlement) 84 xxvm. Mount Egmont 85 xxix. Napier City 86 (From photo by Burton Bros., Dunedin.) brett's handy guide. ii No. Name. Page xxx. Queen Charlotte Sound 88 XXXI. PlCTON ... ... 89 xxxii. Port Lyttelton 92 xxxiii. The Kaikouras 98 xxxiv. Christchurch Cathedral 94 xxxv. The Great Tasman Glacier 96 xxxvi. Mount Cook, Eastern Face 98 xxxvii. Waimakiriri Glacier 99 xxxviii. City of Dunedin _ _ 100 xxxix. City of Dunedin, North US xl. Presbyterian Church, Dunedin 103 xli. View from Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu 106 xlii. Queenstown 110 xliii. Kingston Ill xliv. Head of Lake Wakatipu 118 xlv. View from "The Saddle," Queenstown 115 xlvi. River Rees and Forbes Mounts 116 xlvii. Mount Earnslaw 118 xlviii. Diamond Lake' 119 xlix. The Dart Glacier 120 l. New Zealand Station Homes 124 (From photos by the Author.) Mr. Kitchener's "Waihemo Grange," Dunback, Mr. John Reid's "Elderslie," near Oamaru. Mr. Symon's Makarora, "Park Station," Head of Lake Wanaka. li. Entrance to Milford Sound 129 lii. Stirling Falls, Milford Sound ... ... 181 liii. Lake Takapuna, Auckland 153 liv. The Canterbury Plains 158 MAPS. i. Map of the North Island, showing Railways, \ Coach Routes, &c J _ . . _ n r Frontispieces. ii. „ „ South Island, showing Railways, Coach Routes, &c j in. „ „ Central Thermal Springs Country (Hot Lakes) Facing page 64 iv. „ „ Mt, Cook (Aorangi), its Glaciers and Lakes ,, 96 v. „ ,, Interior Cold Lakes of Otago ,, 112 vi. „ „ Western Lakes and Sounds (Middle Island) „ 128 vii. ,, „ Eastern Glaciers of Mount Cook ... „ 96 vin. „ ,, Tasman Glacier Following page 96 ix. „ „ Plan of Glaciers, &c, round the Her- mitage, Mount Cook „ „ 96 » PREFACE. SO many books appear annually and so few live out the year that it has become customary for an author to find an excuse for pre- suming to swell their numbers. Were such an excuse necessary in this case, the fact that much of the matter in the excellent Handbook to New Zealand published some years ago by the Union Steamship Company "Maoriland" — is now out of date — and that there is no likelihood of its being reprinted, would be amply sufficient. There has been a distinct demand for a genuine guide book, and although this work makes no claim to possess the literary merit of "Maoriland," it aims at being as handy and complete a vade-mecum as possible for the gradually increasing number of travellers to New Zealand. Its preparation has involved a great amount of travel, reference and research, and travellers and capitalists will readily recog- nise the progress the Colony is making from the fact that whole sheets written only a few months ago, have had to be re-written owing to the increased facilities of communication, additional railways opened, new scenic beauties discovered,—the Sutherland Falls, for example,—and other important changes that have taken place. For a volume to be a genuinely handy Guide, it should be of a size con- venient for carrying about, and be constructed on such a plan that reference can be made to any part of it with ease. As I have seen this work growing larger and larger with material that it seemed desirable to include in a " Complete Guide to New Zealand," I have had fears that the size would be greater than many people would deem handy, but I hope that it will be allowed that my claim to have it con- sidered a "Handy Guide" in its handiness for reference as well as in the general utility of its information is a reasonable one. At this period of the Colony's history and in view of the celebra- tion of New Zealand's Jubilee by the International Exhibition at Dunedin, it seemed fitting to make this volume something more than a guide for scenic purposes only. Such I have aimed at making it primarily, but there will also be found among its pages special information of interest to the agriculturalist, the mineralogist, the brett's handy guide. 13 settler, and the seeker after health. The parts, chapters, and sections are so arranged, that by aid of the Index any information can be at once found: the index itself being as complete as it was possible to make it. Although the volume has not been prepared at the instigation, or in the interest of any firm or company, I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to the Union Steamship Company—whose excellent inter- colonial and coastal services have done so much towards developing the Colony—for many courtesies and facilities; as well as to the Ministers for Public Works, Lands, and other Departments, Mr. Mc Kerrow,—when Surveyor-General,—Mr. Maxwell and the Railway Department, and many other officials and individuals, including coach proprietors, the Lake Wakatipu s.s. Co., the owner of the launch on Lake Wanaka, Mr. Frank Miles, etc., etc.,—who have granted facilities, supplied material, or otherwise aided me in the work. I have also to thank Messrs. Burton Brothers of Dunedin,. Mr. Finch of Queenstown, and Mr. Josiah Martin of Auckland, for various photograhs used, in addition to my own, for the purposes of illustration: and Mr. T. F. Cheeseman of the Auckland Institute, for information regarding the ferns of the Colony. All the best publica- tions on New Zealand have been consulted, and I have availed myself of the latest information obtainable, besides traversing the Colony from one end to the other to write of the scenery and routes from actual observation. As already stated these descriptions will be found lacking in literary excellence, but apart from other possible reasons this had to be sacrificed to utility, as well as to a desire to leave plenty of scope for travellers to make descriptions of their own, rather than to have it anticipated for them by elaborate word pictures. On the other hand it has been my endeavour to leave no place of any importance unmentioned, and if omissions have occurred they will be rectified as soon as possible. As regards the scenery of New Zealand, I make bold to say,—after visiting many lands and seeing many of the finest natural beauties the world has to show,—that there is no country which possesses the wonderful variety of scenery that New Zealand can boast of. Switzerland may excel in more beautiful combinations of Alpine scenery and higher Alps, Italy in more dainty Lakes, the Yellowstone Park may eclipse the Thermal Springs District for its Geysers, and Norway may grudgingly take the second place for its Fiords. But when we consider the fine river , and coast scenery in the North Island round Hokianga, Russell, and Whangaroa; the wonders of the Hot Lake district round Rotorua and Taupo; the splendid gorge scenery of the coach rides from Nelson to 14 brett's handy guide. Westport and Greymouth, and from Hokitika or Kumara to Spring- field; the Hanmer Hot Springs, and the charms of Akaroa; the grand summits in the Southern Alps, and the glaciers of Aorangi (Mount Cook); the wealth of beauty possessed by the various Southern Lakes; and, lastly, the unique majesty and natural loveliness of the West Coast Sounds,—I say when we consider that all these exist in a country about the size of England and Wales, it must be conceded that New Zealand is indeed "that other Eden demi-paradise." And when in addition to its natural beauties, its fine climate, its splendid agricultural and pastoral lands, its array of minerals, its grand forests and its extensive harbours are taken into account, the inhabi- tants may well be pardoned if with a touch of natural and excusable pride they have called it " the Sanatorium of Australasia," and "the Wonderland of the South Pacific." E. E. B. Auckland, 1889. INTRODUCTION. HE plan that has been adopted in the compilation of this "Handy L Guide" will, we trust, prove so simple to our readers that a few remarks on the general method of the work should be all that is necessary to render reference an easy matter. The plan on a smaller scale was originally adopted by the Author in the Appendix to his book on the 'Pyrenees, and was approved of by the Press for its general utility. The present volume is divided into Six Parts. The First Part deals with New Zealand historically from the earliest times up to the present. The Second Part with the scenic beauties, wonders (and coach routes) of the colony. The Third Part forms a complete directory of all the important places in the two Islands (with mention of Stewart Island), the objects of interest, excursions, etc., in their vicinity; together with the ports of call in Australia and Tasmania for vessels bringing passengers to New Zealand. The Fourth Part contains an Alphabetical list of the Health Resorts of New Zealand, with an article specially written for this volume by Dr. T. Hope Lewis, M.R.C.S. Eng. The Fifth Part gives the Skeleton Routes to and in the Colony, Tables of Distances by Land and Sea, and various Tours throughout the Colony with cost of same at the time of writing. On referring to the Map, a traveller can compare at a glance the route he wishes to take, with the skeleton route for each particular portion of his contemplated journey, and by referring to the tours also, he can see exactly how he will travel and how the connections are made. The Sixth Part contains a large amount of general information, much of which has been courteously supplied by the Government, or compiled from their official handbooks; there are also time tables of the coaches and Union Steamship Company, and a list of the principal ferns found in the Colony. It will be noticed that in the General Index the Part is given opposite each word as well as the page so that the reader will know at once in what connection the word occurs. Having thus explained the plan of the volume, there are only two other points we would now dwell on. The first is, the destruction of the Pink and White Terraces, by the Eruption of Tarawera in June, 1886; the second is, the best method to adopt in order to see the various scenic centres of the Colony to the best advantage. The terraces were unquestionably the " Wonders of New Zealand" • " 'Twixt France and Spain": London, Sampson Low & Co., 1883. i6 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. and were unique. But great as their loss is, there are still so many sights to be seen in the Hot Lake district, so many wonders, as well as smaller terrace formations, that with the interest attaching to the scenes of the disaster, the traveller could hardly ask for more. So that though anyone who saw "the terraces" might think the district but little worth visiting now that they are gone; this is far from being the general opinion, and of the large numbers of tourists who have visited the district since the Eruption, we have not heard of a single case where disappointment was expressed. And when in addition to the weird region all the other beauties of the colony are considered, the cry "there is nothing to see now," is a libel indeed. The second point—with which we now conclude—is the advisability of commencing the tour of New Zealand from the North. We cannot understand why people have been frequently recommended to land at the South and work up, for in that way the scenery impresses one far less and the trip is far less enjoyable. We would recommend travellers to come from Sydney to Auckland, returning to Melbourne vid Bluff. On reference to the Tours arranged by Thomas Cook & Son in Part V. it will be seen how trips can be fitted in with the round tickets by the Union Company's vessels as a basis, and how the complete tours or partial tours of New Zealand can be made. By beginning the trip in the North, you pass from the wonders, around which the landscape is fre- quently but of minor interest, into scenery that increases in grandeur till the trip culminates with the splendid majesty of the West Coast Sounds. If you land at the Bluff, however, and commence with " the Sounds," each scenic centre visited afterwards palls just in the same proportion as when seen in the opposite order it gradually leads to a climax. We therefore would impress upon all travellers anxious to see the Colony at its best to begin their trip from Auckland, visiting the historic ground and beautiful river and coast scenery of Hokianga, Russell, Whangaroa, and Whangarei first, and then to continue their journey, seeing the sights in the order mentioned in the Preface, always of course if practicable concluding with the trip to the West Coast Sounds, and proceeding afterwards to Hobart (if Tasmania has yet to be seen), and thence to Melbourne. It is with no other feeling than the strong conviction that the route from North to South will do most good, most justice to the colony, and give most pleasure to the traveller, that we have adopted this order throughout the work and arranged our descriptions accordingly: and we do so with the firmer conviction from having tried both routes ourselves. B RETT'S HANDY GUIDE TO NEW ZEALAND. . PART I. CHAPTER I. Captain Tasman—Murderers' Bay—Captain Cook—Poverty Bay—Cook's Strait- Doubtless Bay—Du Survillc Ngakinui—Marion du Fresne—Lieutenant Crozet— Vancouver—Admiral D'Kntrecasteaux—Whalers—Phormium tenax—Intercourse with Sydney—" Boyd" Massacre—Te Pahi—Maori Traditions—Hawaiki— Ngahue—Cannibalism—Labour—Morals—Pomare Heke—Manners and Customs —Tribes — Chiefs —Tapu—Tattooing —Barbarous Traffic — Language—Belief— Sports—War—Pas-Kepublicanism—Sweetness and Light—Decline of the Maori. STAATEN Land, the name by which New Zealand was first known, proclaims at once to which nation the honour of its discovery is due. Captain Tasman, in command of the "Heemskirk" and "Zeehaan," anchored in Cook Strait on the 18th December, 1642, and immediately made the acquaintance of the Maoris, the only inhabitants of the islands at that time. Mistrust, however, was evinced on either side, and one of the Zeehaan's boats having been attacked by the occupants of canoes which came from the shore (four of the crew being killed), Captain Tasman, disappointed and disgusted that he could neither get provisions nor hospitality, called the place "Murderers' Bay," and sailed northwards, naming Cape Maria Van Diemen—its extreme western extremity—after the Governor of Batavia's daughter, his heart's idol, and some small islands, " The Three Kings." Having made another unsuccessful attempt to get supplies, he sailed away without setting foot on New Zealand soil, summing up the natives as bloodthirsty and hostile. Whether the character the Maoris thus earned for themselves became known to other explorers, and deterred them from venturing into New Zealand waters, is not explained, but B i8 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE for 127 years Tasman's example, so far as history discloses, was un- followed till 1769, when, after having visited Tahiti to observe the Transit of Venus, Captain Cook sailed south in the "Endeavour" in search of " pastures new," and cast anchor in October of the same year in " Poverty Bay," a spot whose title may have been befitting at that time owing to the barren result of his attempted trading with the natives, but which to-day is a cruel misnomer. Although to Tasman belongs the praise of having sighted New Zealand, it is to Cook that the real honour of having discovered and explored the islands belongs. He paid five visits between 1769 and 1777, circumnavigated the main islands on his first visit, and spent several months surveying the coast line. Having discovered Cook's Strait, he hoisted the Union Jack on the summit of a small hill over- looking Queen Charlotte Sound on January 30th, 1770, and called the Sound after the Queen. He then took formal possession of the country—which he discovered to consist of ten islands, instead of being part of a large continent as previously surmised—in the name of King George the Third. He studied the country and the natives, and published his impressions regarding them, and conferred a lasting benefit by leaving pigs, potatoes, and garden seeds as memorials of his visit. Before his final departure in 1777, the French had twice effected a landing, and held intercourse with the natives; in fact, as Cook was leaving Doubtless Bay (Rangungu), Bay of Islands, on his first voyage, De Surville, in the "St. Jean Baptiste," was approaching Mongonui. Having expected an "Eldorado" in the Southern Seas, with gold lying piled up ready for loading, or something similar, he sailed away disgusted, carrying off the Chief Ngakinui, who died broken-hearted a few years later. Marion du Fresne was the next to arrive in 1772. He was in command of the "Marquis de Castries" and the " Mascarin," and landed at the Bay of Islands to refit; the " Mascarin," in charge of Lieutenant Crozet, having lost her masts. For over a month the Frenchmen were treated in a friendly manner by the Maoris; at the end of this period, however, some of the sacred places, the tapu spots of the tribe were, probably without intention, desecrated by a party of the French: this resulted in an attack, in which twenty-nine of the foreigners, including their leader, were killed and eaten. Crozet, and sixty-four of his men, who were up the Kawakawa River at the time, narrowly escaped destruction also, but being forewarned of the medi- tated attack, he succeeded in saving his party, and avenging their slain comrades. For fully eighteen years after these episodes, and at least eleven after Cook's last visit, no explorer visited New Zealand. Vancouver was the next to arrive in 1791: then Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, in 1793, but both mistrusted the natives to such a degree, that the latter would not allow his men to land, and the former merely visited Dusky Bay and Chatham Islands, leaving no records of his voyage, except naming "The Snares." By this time, however, New Zealand was becoming known. Com- merce, which recognises no sentimental obstacles, and which is as willing to trade with cannibals as with Christians, began to gain a TO NEW ZEALAND. 19 foothold. Whalers seeing that the coasts of New Zealand were the favourite haunts of the mighty mammal, established whaling stations, while individuals on the look out for anything they could turn a penny at, eyed with interest the splendid phormium tenax, the graceful native flax, and made friends with the Maoris, in order to institute a regular trade in this article. A very fortunate matter for New Zealand had happened a few years previously, which we have to thank the cannibal propensities of the Maoris for. The Colony of New South Wales had been established in 1787, and in the following year our kindly ancestors bethought them of favouring New Zealand in a similar manner to Australia, by sending over a human cargo, selected by the best judges, and establishing a penal settlement. The well known man-eating tastes of the Maori suggested a possible total settlement, however, and the idea Intercourse with Sydney was opened up in 1792: sailors on whaling ships took Maori wives, and settled on the land; natives occasionally developed a taste for the sea, and became known for their bravery and aptness in learning; and between 1805 and 1809, three Maoris visited England. Events such as these were naturally of service to the country, and following on one another did much to spread a better feeling with regard to the natives. But the massacre of the crew of the "Boyd," in Whangaroa Harbour, in November, 1809, had a most adverse effect, and caused the abandonment of a project by the New South Wales and New Zealand Company, which would have helped forward colonisation. Thanks, however, to the efforts of the Rev. S. Marsden and the co-operation of Te Pahi,—a noble old Maori chief, who was killed by his countrymen for protecting the survivors in the "Boyd " tragedy,—the cause of colonisation and Christianity triumphed, and in 1814 the first sermon was preached on New Zealand soil. Before proceeding to mention the events which crowded them- selves into the history of New Zealand from 1814,—the year when Europeans may be said to have first attempted to establish Anglo- Saxon civilisation in the islands—to the present time, we deem it fitting to devote a little space to the Maoris, their habits, character, and proclivities; not only on account of the part they play in the history of the Colony; but also because it will throw light on most of the important events which have taken place since Tasman dis- covered these fertile shores and left them in dismay. The traditions of the Maoris themselves prove that they were not originally natives of New Zealand, though the actual land of their birth is shrouded in mystery. Testimony, generally, points to the island Hawaiki—which is considered to have been Hawaii or one of THE MAORIS. 20 brett's handy guide the Navigator Islands—as the place from which some fifteen canoes started on a voyage—owing to internal troubles, or a desire for seeking "pastures new." They were under the command of a chief called Ngahue, and brought with them rats, plants, dogs, and certain birds. Tradition is again weak regarding the time of their landing and their numbers, but it may be accepted as probable that it was some time during the 15th century, and that four or five hundred persons made the somewhat perilous voyage. Their numbers were, however, considerable when Captain Cook visited the islands, and though only a rough guess could be made, the estimate was set down at about 90,000, or about double the present native population of the Colony. Although Captain Cook rightly dubbed the Maoris as savages, there were some noble traits in their characters, in spite of the undoubted fact that they were cannibals. It has been asserted that this practice was introduced, and was not an original propensity; and again, that in many cases they only ate human flesh because other food was scarce. Tradition seems to point to the correctness of the former assertion, but considering that the country was overrun with rats, that they appreciated the flesh of dogs which was plentiful, that they had quantities of fish, shellfish, and birds, the latter is probably incorrect. Besides, it is generally under- stood that cannibalism was chiefly connected with the feasting on the bodies of enemies slain in battle, and was prompted by feelings of hatred, with the kindred sentiment of satisfied vengeance. For thus they not only had the satisfaction of slaying their adversaries, but of subjecting them to the ignominy of being eaten. Notwithstanding their cannibalism, the Maoris, before the evils which accompany civilisation set the seal on their decay, were a fine race. They were not skilled in mechanical arts. They could weave coarse cloth out of the fibres of the native flax, polish and work greenstone,—an enormous labour,—carve in a rough fashion, make canoes, battle axes and other warlike weapons, construct fishing nets, and fashion in a rude way several ornaments, mostly for their persons, but also for their whares and canoes. Their men were and are large-boned, and generally of good height and well developed. They have a more dragging gait than Europeans, owing to the greater length of body and consequent shortness of limb, but they are naturally agile, and can bear fatigue well. A few of the higher caste women are fairly pretty, but as a rule the type is not equal to that of the men; this may be possibly accounted for from the fact that the women mostly supply the place of beasts of burden, doing all the hard work, which also makes them age early. The general colour of the race is a rich burnt sienna; their intellect is fairly quick, though not deep, and their morals very similar to those of the Japanese. Changes are of course taking place, but formerly female virtue was not looked for till after marriage, and even that ceremony had little control over the men. The turning of a wife out of doors was the same as a "decree absolute," and polygamy was not un- common. Wives often changed husbands, and temporary unions were frequent; in fact Pomare Heke, in the good old days of whaling, when on an average two ships visited the Bay of Islands weekly, bad a very large band of slave girls in his tribe, whose chief duties were to keep house for " Jack ashore." TO NEW ZEALAND. 21 The manners and customs of the Maori were in many ways singular, and the constitution of the tribes and the system of govern- ing of a decidedly interesting nature. There is something amusing too in the fact, that from the original four or five hundred immigrants, no less than eighteen nations have sprung; these nations being sub- divided into tribes, and the tribes into "hapus," or lodges. The Monument, or Maori Tomb. highest in authority was the chief of the nation, ruling over possibly forty or fifty tribes ; then came the chief of each tribe, and then the lesser chiefs. The tribes consisted, speaking generally, of three classes; the chiefs, the great mass of the people, and the slaves. The prin- cipal chief governed in much the same fashion as a modern monarch. 22 brett's handy guide He had more power in general matters, but in all great events could not act without the assent of the people. Primogeniture was a recognised law in the chiefly succession, with a due regard to expediency. Thus a chief, who it was deemed advisable to remove from the post of honour, did not lose all his power, he was still the ruler in certain matters. Although the head chief had power in ecclesiastical matters, the power of their priesthood was considerable, as well as that of the " Magi," who performed similar functions. The "tapu " was part and parcel of the Maori mode of government, and In it was really comprised the chief power possessed by the chiefs and priests. The mere fact that casting the spell of " tapu" would denote anything sacred—not to be touched, hardly to be looked at—from the bodies of the chiefs and priest down to a crop of sweet potatoes, shows conclusively how the rulers, spiritual and temporal, had their hands strengthened by its influence, more especially since it was only the person who pronounced the " tapu" who could remove it. It was the means which many an imposture, fraud, and cruelty was successfully carried out, but it also helped to establish some sort of order, and for that reason alone, was pro- bably on the whole far more useful than vicious. The priests had special functions, and as in former days with our own and other nations, were the scholars of the tribe. They are said to have been skilled in ventriloquism, and to have made use of it for the better handling of the laity, and the unpleasant business of tattoo- ing was solely entrusted to their care. All the men were tattooed, more or less, elaborately on their faces and bodies; the women on their eye- brows, lips, and chins. The chiefs indulged in special patterns, and were to be distinguished by the more complex arrangement on the upper part of the cheeks. The disfiguration was supposed to over- whelm enemies with dread, to mark rank, and to preserve the face from showing the " whips and scorns of time." One of the customs springing from this practice was to preserve by a curious process of smoke-drying the heads of enemies killed in battle. A regular demand set in, at a later period, for these curious specimens for museums and private collections, until the Maori, unable to supply the trade legitimately, followed the example of Birmingham and manufactured specimens. This, however, became a serious matter, since it entailed the tattooing and subsequent killing of slaves, who hitherto had led a fairly easy existence, and the New South Wales Government, with which New Zealand trade was mainly connected at that time, had to pass a strong measure to put down the barbarous traffic. The Maori language consists of fourteen letters, viz., a, e, i, o, u, H, K, M, N, P, R, T, W, Ng. Every letter in a word is pro- nounced, every syllable ends with a vowel, and with the exception of Ng, which is regarded as one letter,—two consonants are never used together. It is a fairly copious language of a material nature, as is to be expected for a savage nation. Public speaking is quite an art with the Maoris, and the influence of a chief greatly depends on his oratorical powers. The natives possess a good deal of lyrical poetry, but no epic. Their word painting is at times really vivid, and some of their love ditties, laments, and war poems are of decided merit. The style more nearly resembles the Latin than the English, though they are not 23 very particular how they split up a word, and carry part of it over to the next line, provided that by beheading it they fill the space to get the metre right. They have always believed in a future state, although till the missionaries arrived they did not recognise an Omnipotent God. They believed that the heavens and earth were originally pinned together, and were torn asunder by their descendants: they likewise had a leaning to sorcery, and rather peculiar ideas of their positions in the chambers of the " world to come." They were not without many pleasures and sports; although not till quite recently football players, they had the " haka," a combination of dancing and singing, which usually began becomingly, and ended the reverse ; pole-jumping, at which they were experts; horse-racing, and a number of otners, not unlike our own games, with the gilt off. They lived chiefly in raupo (reed) huts, in which they packed pretty closely at night, exclud- ing any possible draught, so that a cucumber-frame was a cool chamber in comparison. Their store-houses were mostly erected on piles, and on their meeting houses (runanga) a great deal of time and trouble was lavished in the way of carvings, etc. The Maoris were naturally a warlike race. Some authorities contend that they were not fond of war, others that they only entered upon it after due consideration, fully recognising the unpleasantnesses entailed by defeat. But viewing the point by the light of history it certainly seems as though in many cases they fought like the French, for the glory of it; especially when fortune seemed likely to favour the aggressors. Before they learnt the use of fire-arms, and civilised modes of warfare, they had a peculiar code of honour, which embraced the giving of notice of an intended attack, much the same as one club challenges another at football, or a body of German students intimate the desire to gash the faces of a rival corps. They were incited to battle by the warlike speeches of the chiefs, and the excitement of the war dance, and fought in serried ranks. They were well versed in the principles of fortification, and their "pahs" were arranged with a shrewdness anything but savage; these same "pahs," when con- structed to withstand the attacks of our soldiers, were protected by rifle-pits, ditches, stockades, and not infrequently partially surrounded with swamp or scrub, by which, if necessary, a retreat could be easily and safely effected. And what with their pahs, their bravery, and their ability to take hints, our men discovered very early in the wars, that they had an enemy in the Maori they could neither afford to look down upon nor give chances to. In the matter of land and other property, the Maori was far more of a Republican than our American cousin. They had no wealthy citizens : no destitute paupers : no defaulting aldermen, and no Tweed kings. Conquest gave a complete title to the land, but as the land was held in common by the individuals forming the different tribes, no sale or barter of any part of it could be concluded without the full consent of all concerned. This plan had its evil as well as its good side in spite of its being Republican, and a very large amount of trouble has resulted, especially of late years—sales of native lands to Europeans being in many cases precluded on account of some individual objection to "fall in " with the majority. 24 brett's handy guide to new Zealand. It may be contended, however, tbat the plan worked excellently among themselves, as also that of holding all "moveable goods and chattels" in common, and that the fact that it didn't give satisfaction in regulating transactions with Europeans is only one among many evidences of the harmful effects of civilisation. Whether this con- tention is sound or not, there can be no question that up to this time civilisation has not improved the Maori. "Sweetness and light" do not seem to have followed in the wake of colonisation, but as is customary with savage races, they have learnt all the evils of the civilised, without acquiring their virtues at the same time. The Maori of to-day, who has come in contact with Europeans, rarely tattoos. That is one wise thing he has learnt, but he is a practised deceiver in "fabricating" ancient curios: a hard cunning hand in striking a bargain : an ardent smoker, and, in many cases, drinker: is lazy and extortionate when circumstances allow, and as obstinate as a mule. Whether the rapid decrease of the native population will be arrested, and the Maori race survive, is a question that has exercised many minds: the probability is that the race is doomed, however. As they are tending at present, with the help of " fire-water," with the lack of inducement to improve themselves, with the diseases that seem always to accompany civilisation, and with ready minds to acquire all that we can teach them belonging to the " seamy side" of life, there is but little room to lament such a probability. And yet it is a pity, for if we could influence them for good, and leave them otherwise with their ancient dignity and many of their ancient customs without encouraging them—as, alas! too frequently has been the case—to become bad editions of ourselves, we might do much to preserve a people, not only historically and innately interesting, but worthy of regard for their fine manly bearing and their many excellent characteristics. CHAPTER II. The Missionaries—Rev. S. Marsden—Ruatara—Battle of Creeds—Hongi—Raupa- raha—New Zealand Company—Kororareka—Mr. Busby—Baron de Thierry— Edward Gibbon Wakefield—Francis Baring—the "Tory "—Colonel Wakefield— "Wellington" Founded—Capt. Hobson—Treaty of Waitangi—Missionary In- fluence—Birth of Interurbian Jealousy—Settlements—The Game of Euchre— Akaroa—Wairau Massacre—Governor Fitzroy—Hone Heke—The Flagstaff— Governor Grey—Taupo Landslip—Earthquake—Canterbury Association— Progress. MUCH has been written of the faults and failings of the early missionaries, and of the harm they did the cause of Christianity thereby. There is no dcubt truth in many of the charges brought against them in later years, but the majority of those who first at- tempted to carry the religion of the Cross over to New Zealand were brave upright men, who faced possible, ay, probable death without flinching for their faith's sake. Foremost among these zealous workers was the Rev. S. Marsden, and the success he achieved was in no small measure owing to the practical Christianity which he had exhibited in 1809. Ruatara, a chief's son, was returning from a visit to England, as one of the crew of the vessel, when he was taken ill. Mr. Marsden nursed rum so considerately that when the young man left the vessel and returned to his own people he took the first opportunity of showing his gratitude by befriending the earliest missionaries from the time they landed in New Zealand. As mentioned in the previous chapter, Mr. Marsden landed in the Bay of Islands in 1814. Five years later he made a survey of the northern portion of the North Island in company with several Maori chiefs. For eight years the Episcopalian was the only creed preached to the natives, and a good many converts were made; in 1822 the Wesleyans began their missions at Whangaroa, and sixteen years later the Roman Catholics at Hokianga. The introduction of these different religions had a very damaging effect on the cause of Chris- tianity. It has been previously mentioned that the Maori intellect is fairly quick though not deep. It was quite sharp enough to grasp the religious situation, and no more striking proof of the advantages of a Universal Creed were ever demonstrated than by the attitude of the Maori when he found the representative of these three Churches severally insisting on the advantages of their respective system as a means for attaining Everlasting Life. The Maori very sensibly remarked, " If the enlightened Pakehas cannot agree among themselves which is the best way to go to Heaven, and the proper religion and creed to adopt, how can a poor Maori be expected to know which to choose." And thus large numbers turned their backs on the various propaganda and remained Pagans, while others in many cases adopted one or other of the Creeds purely from the knowledge of the worldly 26 brett's handy guide benefits it would confer upon them*—and there are others besides Maoris who do it still. About the time when the first sermon was preached in New Zealand, a powerful chief named Hongi went to England, where he was loaded with presents, supplied himself with firearms, and returned to settle a little "family affair" he had with the natives in the Kaipara district. Rauparaha, a powerful chief, retreated before him, but as soon as the chance occurred bought weapons on his own account, and whereas Hongi ravaged the Thames, Waipa, and Waikato districts, the latter laid waste the East and West Coasts, establishing a reputation for himself which he made use of later, to the dismay of the early colonists. Hongi died of a wound in 1827. Two years previous to his death the " New Zealand Company" was formed in London. It was composed of several influential men, with Lord Durham at the head. The first colonists, under its auspices, arrived in the Hauraki Gulf in the " Rosanna," with Captain James Herd (after whom Herd's Point, Hokianga, is called) in com- mand, in 1826, proceeding next to the Bay of Islands. Unfortunately, the natives happened to be at war at the time, so that the in- tending colonists, alarmed at their possible fate, desired to be taken home again, only four, Messrs. Nimmo, Gillis, Nesbet, and McLean, remaining. The "Rosanna" returned as far as Sydney, where her "stores," etc., were sold, and then continued her voyage to England: and thus failed the first attempt at colonisation on a large scale. The Company lost about /20.000 in the venture, and without much desire to repeat the experiment, wound up. In spite of this failure, however, the settlement did progress, if slowly, and several small settlements gradually came into being between 1827 and 183(1, along the coast. In 1832, there were about a hundred white people at Kororareka (Russell)—the most important settlement—and in 1836 over thirty large whaling vessels were in the Bay of Islands at one time. Three years previous to this apparently prosperous state of things, Mr. James Busby, at the instance of Lord Ripon, arrived at Waitangi, Bay of Islands, as British President. The appointment was made owing to thirteen native chiefs applying for British protection in 1831, on learning that the governor of New South Wales, who succeeded Governor Macquarie, had declared that New Zealand was not one of the N.S.W. depen- dencies, nor within the dominions of King George III. It can hardly be said to have been a great success. One of the first acts of the new President was to suggest the adoption of a national flag, to enable vessels built in New Zealand to have freedom of trade with British Ports, and this was approved of. A little later a French Baron, de Thierry by name, having nominally purchased a large tract of land, declared himself a Sovereign Prince of New Zealand, whereupon Mr. Busby developed the idea of a national government to be presided over by himself. From this sprang the "United Tribes of New Zealand," some thirty chiefs declaring their inde- pendence, and joining it. In a very short space of time the flag and * Vide Preface, by the Earl of Pembroke, to "Old New Zealand," by a Pakeha-Maori. TO NEW ZEALAND. 27 "the tribes " bade farewell to public life, and but little was heard of either afterwards. In 1837, Captain Hobson was sent from Sydney to protect British interests, and report on the condition of the country. The same year saw the translation of the Bible into Maori com- pleted. It also dawned on a very bad state of things at Kororareka. Much the same as in the early days of the Bahamas, this pretty little town was a perfect paradise for outlaws, loafers, law-breakers, and rogues generally. Mr. Busby had but little power, and con- sequently lawlessness was paramount, and those who were naturally of a law-abiding nature suffered. But the same spirit which has been seen so often in America, when law has proved powerless, was awakened then, and in 1838, the Kororareka Association was formed, and its members constituting themselves into a sort of Police Force, and Magistrates Bench combined, took the law into their own hands, not without success. It must not be imagined that during these years the failure of the "Rosanna " colonising scheme had caused New Zealand to be entirely forgotten at home. Besides, the influential men who had already interested themselves in the new country for various reasons, Edward Gibbon Wakefield being a man with a hobby which he thought might be worked out successfully in the infant Colony, determined to make a bold bid for support for his scheme, and although the results were not such as he had looked forward to, there can be no question, despite much that has been alleged to the contrary, that to Edward Gibbon Wakefield New Zealand owes its systematic colonisation. He was a remarkable man, though he not infrequently did very foolish things, the colonisation of New Zealand was probably the out- come of one of these. He ran off—it was understood—to France with a ward in Chancery, was caught and committed to prison; while there he had plenty of time for thought. The subject of colonisation was before the public at the time ; he studied it carefully, and formulated his book, "The Art of Colonisation." As soon as he was let out of prison, desirous of giving practical shape to the schemes propounded in his book, he interviewed the Government. They, like many Governments as well as private individuals before and since, looked at him with distrust, suspected insanity because he had an idea that was new to them, and gave him the cold shoulder. With perseverance he gained an interview with the Duke of Wellington, initiated him into the niceties of his " self-government," not to say Republican scheme, and converted him. Briefly stated, Wakefield's system of colonisation was the establishment of settlements under a form of self-government, in which the grades of English society would remain as then in existence in England. The land was to be the property of the capitalist and employer, the cultivation of it to belong to the working man, and such provisions and regulations enforced as would almost preclude the latter from becoming his own landlord. After his success with the Duke of Wellington, Wakefield was anxious to pay him a compliment, and to that end endeavoured to have the capital of South Australia, which was then being colonised, called after the great warrior. Finding that the people had set their affections on Adelaide, the name of the Queen Dowager, he wisely withdrew his suggestion, but determined that the next Colony he had 28 bkett's handy' guide any hand in forming should accept his nomination. Thus when, after the collapse of the New Zealand Association, with Mr. Francis Baring at its head, in 1837, the same gentleman obtained leave to bring in a bill in the following year, Wakefield quietly but persistently pushed forward his cause; and again, when, owing to the failure of the bill, the New Zealand Land Company was formed, in 1839, under much the same auspices, but on so-called different lines, he secretly negotiated the purchase and fitting out of the ship "Tory," in which his brother, Colonel Wakefield, and an approved staff shortly sailed for the land of promise, there to buy territory, and make arrangements for the coming of the colonists. He never lost sight of his intended compliment to his soldier hero, and thus the first settlement at Port Nicholson was called Wellington. The voyage out lasted ninety-six days. Immediately on his arrival, the Colonel took formal possession of Port Nicholson in the name of the Company, and shortly afterwards reported the purchase of land very nearly equal in size to Ireland, and land to which he had as much equitable claim as many other landlords in that country and others. In the following January, the first batch of emigrants arrived in the " Aurora." A year later about 1,200 emigrants had landed under the Company's auspices. In 1838, it had been proposed to appoint a British Consul to reside in New Zealand. The following year certain parts of New Zealand were added to New South Wales as a dependency of that Colony, and Captain Hobson was appointed to proceed thither as British Consul with the title of Lieutenant-Governor. Captain Hobson arrived early in 1840, and almost immediately concluded the celebrated "Treaty of Waitangi" with the natives. The following is a resume of its chief provisions :— PREAMBLE. The Queen of England, wishing to protect her Maori subjects and preserve their rights, learning that many of her white subjects had settled in New Zealand, and that more would soon follow, and being desirous of preventing any troubles from arising between the two races, had despatched Captain Wm. Hobson, R.N., to be Governor over all parts of New Zealand then or thereafter ceded to her. And in order to give effect to the same, the following Articles of Agreement were proposed :— I. The Maori chiefs to cede to the Queen for ever the right of Government over the whole country. II. The Queen to confirm to the Maoris their full rights over all their properties, but they to cede to the Queen the right to purchase such land as they were willing to sell at a price agreed upon between them and an officer of Her Majesty. III. In consideration of the above the Queen to protect all her Maori subjects and grant them the same rights and privileges as if they were Englishmen. Owing to mission influence—the Bishop of Australia having commended the scheme of submission to the Rev. H. Williams, at that time the most powerful of the missionaries in New Zealand—the treaty was largely adopted, in spite of the fact that by its adoption the Church and Wesleyan Societies lost much of the power that it had cost zg them, about a quarter of a million sterling, to acquire. On the 21st of May, such had been the success of the treaty, the Queen's sovereignty was proclaimed over the North Island by virtue of it, and over the South and Stewart's Island by virtue of discovery. About the same time the New Zealand Land Company attempted to put Wakefield's Republican scheme into operation, with the Colonel as president. As soon as Capt. Hobson heard of the proceedings he despatched Lieut. Shortland, R.N., with a small force of Regulars and Police to proclaim the Company's action illegal, calling upon all persons to withdraw therefrom, and submit as loyal subjects to the Queen's constituted authorities. The settlers denied any disloyal intent, declared that it was purely a provisional affair, and they gladly welcomed the advent of the Governor. They went so far as to prepare a congratulatory address, which the Colonel himself presented to the Governor at the Bay of Islands, but repented of their action in the following year, when after careful consideration Capt. Hobson selected Auckland and not Wellington as the site for the Capital of New Zealand. The jealousy which was thereupon aroused still continues, although Auckland has for some time ceased to be the residence of the Governor of the Colony. That same year New Zealand was cut adrift from N.S.W., granted a Charter, and Captain Hobson was gazetted as full Governor. By this time colonisation was established on a recognised basis, and new settlements were formed. The following is the order in which they took place :— 1. Kororareka (or Russell), Bay of Islands, in 1827, with a white population of about 100 in 1836. 2. Wellington, established by the New Zealand Land Company in 1839-40. 8. Akaroa, settled by French emigrants, arriving in th'e"Comte de Paris," 1839-40. 4. Auckland, established by Governor Hobson, in 1840-41, as the capital of the Colony. 5. New Plymouth, founded by the New Zealand Company in 1841. 6. Nelson, founded by the same Company in 1841, and named as a suitable compliment to England's great naval hero, since Wellington had been called after its great military commander. 7. Otago (Capital Dunedin), established by a Scotch Company in 1848, but really the outcome of Edward Gibbon Wake- field's persuasive powers, being worked in connection with the New Zealand Land Company, with a view to estab- lishing a colony of worshippers of the Free Church of Scotland, on a completely clannish principle. 8. Canterbury (chief town, Christchurch), established in 1850, on a similar basis to that of Otago, for the benefit of the High Church section of the Church of England. These two settlements reflect great credit on the astuteness of Edward Wakefield, to whom solely was the founding of the latter, and mainly of the former, due. Godley, his agent, TO NEW ZEALAND. 31 leniently towards the chiefs, they immediately became more over- bearing than ever; not unnaturally, according to their lights, imagining that the fact of not avenging the death of Captain Wakefield's party was not an act of leniency but of cowardice. The next act of the Governor had also a bad effect on the natives. This was the disallowing of the rights of the New Zealand Company to the land about New Plymouth, which, to the extent of 60,000 acres in that district, or 282,000 acres in all, Mr. Spain, a Commissioner sent from England, declared them entitled to. The Governor declared that the Company was only entitled to 3,500 acres round New Plymouth; and thus, while the settlers' limits were narrowed, the Maoris began to comprehend their powers, so that the Governor's action with regard to the Wairau massacre and the allotment of land in the New Plymouth district, scattered the seeds of the war which broke out there some years afterwards. The Colony generally was now in a most depressed state. Fears of a general rising of the Maoris were entertained; the expenditure of the Government largely exceeded receipts; and the pressure was telling severely on everyone. In 1844 occurred the second collision with the natives. The trade of Kororareka had been steadily declining, owing to the imposition of customs' dues and port charges, which kept the whaling ships away. Tobacco and blankets were becoming scarce, and the Maoris, seeking vainly for a better reason, attributed it to the maintenance of European authority, of which the flag and flagstaff were the outward and visible signs; consequently Hone Heke (son-in-law of Hongi) cut it down and burnt it. The Governor finding that his would-be propitiatory measures in the South had had no effect on the northern natives, sent to Sydney for troops. The chiefs thereupon promised to keep the peace, and the flagstaff was re-erected. It was very soon cut down again, however, and in March, 1845, was thrice re-erected and as many times disposed of, the last time being also the signal for the burning of Kororareka. Prompt action then became imperative. More troops were sent for, unsuccessful attacks were made on the Okaihau and Ohaewai Pahs, and Governor Fitzroy was recalled. In November of that year, Captain Grey was appointed Governor. Shortly afterwards Ruapekapeka Pah was captured, and the followers of Hone Heke and Kawiti dispersed; whereupon the chiefs sur- rendered, and were pardoned. As soon as this matter was settled, Governor Grey had to turn his attention southwards. Rangihaeata, secretly aided by Rauparaha (who pretended outwardly to be friendly to the Europeans), began to harass the settlers in the Wellington district. Captain Grey decided on a bold step. He had the latter quietly captured and conveyed on board a British vessel. When the Maoris heard of it they became disconcerted, dreading the powers of a man who could capture Rauparaha without a blow. Their discomfiture was made more complete by the news of a terrible landslip at Taupo, by which the chief Te Heu Heu and fifty-four of his followers were buried beneath tons of earth. But even this did not altogether restrain their warlike ardour, for about the same time in the following year (1847), as four military settlements were being established in the vicinity of Auckland, fresh fighting began at Wanganui. The town was well fortified, however, and after two months of unsuccessful 32 Brett's handy guide to new Zealand. fighting, the Maoris grew tired, and hostilities were discontinued; though it was not until February, 1848, that peace was ratified formally. In October of this same year—notable for the recommencement of the immigration flow by the advent of the * Free Kirk settlers—a violent earthquake shock occurred in the vicinity of Cook Strait, and Wellington suffered terribly. Houses, churches, and shops were ruthlessly wrecked; men fell on their knees in the streets who had never prayed since childhood; and funds for the rebuilding of the churches were forthcoming in a manner that our clergy of to-day, even aided by bazaars and fancy fairs, look in vain for. In 1850, the Canterbury Association purchased some two million acres from the New Zealand Company, and were granted a ten years' charter by the English Government. The same year saw the downfall of the parent company, owing to its failure to repay a loan of ^236,000 lent by the Government; and although the young association managed to induce some 2,600 immigrants to settle in Canterbury, and founded Christchurch and Lyttleton, they followed suit two years later. Luckily, this did not kill progress. The settlements still went ahead, and those in Otago flourished likewise, each retaining its distinctive character, which both in a great measure preserve even to this day. The early settlers in these provinces were fortunate. They made their homes on good land, and were altogether free from the scares of war and petty native quarrels which the inhabitants of the other island had to contend with, and while there can be no question that the promising condition of the land, especially in Otago, is in a great measure due to a thrift and carefulness not practised by many who settled northwards, yet it must be borne in mind that the Maori wars kept the north island in a moit unsettled state for at least eighteen years, and impeded progress most effectually at a time when the inhabitants of the southern provinces were pursuing their labours undisturbed. Therefore, while in no way detracting from the merits of the work done by the pioneers in the south, the difficulties the northerners had to contend with were, as will be seen from the next chapter, of the most harassing kind, and such as undoubtedly rendered enterprise of any kind not only a difficult, but even a dangerous experiment individually or collectively. * Vide "Early New Zealand," H. Brett, 1HH9. CHAPTER III. Constitution Act — The King of the Cannibal Islands — Colonel Wynyard and Governor Browne—New Provinces—Potatau, King of New Zealand—The King- Maker—Waitara block—Native war—Waireka Pah captured—Sir George Grey supersedes Governor Browne — Gabriel's Gully — Koheroa — Rangiriri Pah— Ngaruawahia occupied—Gate Pah disaster—Hauhauism—Te Ua—Mutoa Island —Hauhaus defeated—Rev. C. S. Volkner massacred—Te Kooti—General Chute —Sir George Bowen — Col. McDonnell resigns — Col. Whitmore—Te Kooti escapes — Poverty Bay massacre — Sir Julius Vogel's scheme — Provinces abolished—Te Whiti—Sir Wm. Jervois—New Zealand Shipping Co. goes into steam — Bryce v. Rusden—Tarawera Eruption — Thos. Cook & Son—Lord Onslow appointed Governor — International Exhibition at Dunedin — Scenic attractions. THE year 1853 may be looked upon as marking the dawn of a new era in the history of the Colony. The Constitution Act, modelled by Sir George Grey (Knighted for his services in 1848), and passed in England during the previous twelve months, came into operation in this year, and with it the Colony seemed to make a fresh start and a prosperous one. By this Act the Colony was divided into six provinces, each with a Provincial Council and Superintendent. A General Assembly, meeting at Auckland, and consisting of a Legisla- tive Council, whose members were nominated by the Crown for life, and a House of Representatives, elected by the people, Sir George Grey being Governor, with plenary power. The dignity of Representative Government—which the country has since paid pretty heavily for—was the chief factor in making the year so noteworthy in the annals of New Zealand, but it was also dis- tinguished from other years by the favourable comparisons it brought forth, and which proved conclusively that the different settlements were really well established, and progressing rapidly. In 1845 the white population numbered 12,774; in 1853 it totalled 30,678; the revenue in 1845 was £12,899, in 1853 it had increased to £147,820; and by the census taken two years later, when the provinces had been accurately denned, showed :— Auckland 10,853 New Plymouth .. ;. .. 1,985 Wellington 7,000 Nelson 5,148 Canterbury 3,895 Otago 2,391 or a total European population of 31,272, in addition to which the natives mustered some 56,000 strong. On the last day of the year Sir George Grey left the Colony, and on his arrival in England was made a D.C.L. by the University of Oxford, well-deserved cheers being giyfp. for the " King of the Cannibal Islands," for he had done much to promote the welfare of the Colony C 34 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE and its people by his tact and his administrative ability. Colonel Wynyard held office as administrator for about twenty months, during which time peace and prosperity prevailed. Governor Browne arrived in the autumn of 1855. In 1856 the revenue had increased to £185,000. In 1858 power was granted to districts to split off from the " parental six "; and although this had a decidedly weakening effect on the older provinces, four new ones came into existence by degrees in conse- quence, viz., Hawke's Bay, Marlborough, Southland, and Westland. Although responsible Government, foreshadowed in the Act of 1852, came into operation in 1855, native affairs were not then included in ministerial responsibility. The Governor had special control of all matters affecting the natives, including law making and land purchase, but, unfortunately, Governor Browne does not seem to have been the man to use his powers aright. The position was a difficult one. Natives are proverbially difficult to deal with, and especially so when their laws and customs, handed down through centuries, are as opposite as the poles from the laws and customs of the governing power. Now Governor Browne was anxious to instil modern English ideas into the Maoris, and when they showed hesitation to accept them, was more inclined to cram them down their throats than to doctor up the nauseous compound into the shape of a pill, and by sugaring it and using persuasive language the while, induce them to take it down kindly. For some time past the native chiefs had been grieving over the loss of their dignity, the loss of their power; and, like the Israelites of old, they wanted a king of their own. In 1857 a large meeting was held on the banks of the Waikato River, and they decided to have their king, and Te Whero Whero, under the style of " Potatau king of New Zealand," was elected, the flag granted to the natives by William III. being run up as a symbol of his sovereignty. In this ceremony William Thompson, thereafter known as the king-maker, a very intelligent chief, was the moving spirit. When the Governor first heard of the king movement, he was inclined to take drastic measures to put it down. A year later he con- sidered that by treating it with indifference it would die a natural death; later still he regarded the movement as nothing less than treason. All this time, however, the natives had been gradually acquiring fire- arms; Sir George Grey's wise act regulating the sale thereof having been repealed by Governor Browne, a circumstance the Maoris had duly taken note of and profited by. They were consequently beginning to regain confidence in their own powers, and were preparing to assert their rights in earnest. The season, from a peace stand-point, was therefore exceedingly inopportune for forcing on them any unpalatable measures; yet this is just what the Governor did. He announced at New Plymouth, in 1859, that henceforward he would treat with individuals in purchasing native lands. Nothing more out of harmony with Maori sentiments and * traditions could have been thought of. It was tantamount to a declaration of war; and the declaration of war soon followed. The Waitara natives under Wiremu Kingi (William King) formed themselves into an anti-selling league, and when a native named Te Ira offered the Governor a block of 600 acres of land at C * Vide Chap. I., and "Early History of New Zealand." TO NEW ZEALAND. 35 Waitara, they opposed the sale. The Governor declared after investigation that the title given by Te Ira was good and sufficient, and a payment on account was made. King said that as chief he had power to forbid the transfer; that part of the land in the block belonged to him, and that consequently he would allow no further proceedings to be taken, nor any survey to be made. Despite the Governor's anticipations to the contrary he remained firm, and when the surveyor pegged out the land in February, 1860, he sent women to pull up the pegs. He was given a day to apologise and to promise better behaviour for the future. He declined, stating that though he wished to avoid fighting, he would not permit the survey. The declaration of war quickly followed; martial law was proclaimed on the 22nd February, and the country settlers, panic stricken, crowded into New Plymouth. And thus began the native war which continued in various parts of the North Island till 1871, interfering with colonisation and any kind of progress, and spreading ruin and desolation broadcast. It was a war that brought little satisfaction to either side, and assumed proportions never dreamt of when it com- menced. Our soldiers learnt much of how brave the Maoris could be thereby; but although many courageous things were likewise done by our men, they were heavily handicapped from the outset in having to fight a bold and sagacious enemy in a country of which they knew nothing, covered with impenetrable forests, or forests whose paths were known only to their enemies—a country in fact where one native might harass a whole company, and where a handful frequently did. Had our troops been able to come to a pitched battle, matters might have turned out differently, and the war ended sooner, for every success gained by one tribe naturally inspired and stimulated another to show fight likewise, until the whole country was alive with malcon- tents like sand-flies in a swamp. It is not our purpose to dwell at any length on this war, for not only has its history been already written more than once by abler pens, but it would form matter for a larger volume than it is intended this should be. We shall content ourselves therefore, and no doubt better please our readers, by simply mentioning as briefly as possible the chief incidents of the war, and the events which followed the close of it up till the present time, which lies more within our province, seeing that it is the New Zealand of to-day, her scenery, and means of tourist travel, with which we have mainly set ourselves to deal. The following are the most noteworthy events in New Zealand history from 1860 to 1889 :— 1860. —Waireka Pah stormed by British soldiers, and carried. Owing to delay in continuing the war, several members of the Waikato tribe of natives followed the lead of the Taranaki Maoris, and joined Kingi. Puketakanere Pah was assailed by our troops under Major Nelson, resulting in a forced retreat with heavy British loss. - In November, the Waikato natives attacked Mohoetahi Hill, but were repulsed with slaughter. 1861. —Sir George Grey superseded Governor Browne in September, being looked upon at home as the man for the work. By a new scheme for dividing the country into twelve native 36 districts, with native control, but with an English Commis- sioner at the head of each, he sought to appease the natives. The Waikato natives, doubting his sincerity, held aloof, and anxiously awaited his views regarding the king movement. Extensive gold fields discovered at Gabriel's Gully in Otago. A great rush from Australia and all parts of the world thither. The Arrow and Shotover Rivers, Butcher's Gully, and Dunstan are among some of the spots where big , finds were made. 1863. —The Governor declared himself as not in favour of the king movement, but to pacify the king, Maoris decided to aban- don the faulty claim to the 600 acres at Waitara. May.—Ambush laid at Oakura and ten Europeans killed. June.—General Cameron attacked and carried a posi- tion on Katikara River, near New Plymouth. July.—The Governor issued a proclamation, calling all natives residing between Auckland and the Waikato frontier to swear allegiance to the Queen, and deliver up their arms, or retire beyond the frontier line. General Cameron carried the rifle pits at Koheroa. November. — Rangiriri Pah carried by General Cameron, who had now militia and volunteers—including the men enlisted in Australia—to the number of 10,000. December.—Ngaruawahia, the capital of the Waikato Maoris, occupied by our troops. 1864. —Orakau taken, and great bravery displayed by the natives. This was followed by the confiscation of 160,000 acres from the Waikato tribe. The Gate Pah disaster near Tauranga, and slaughter of the English. Owing to its structure, and the difficulties of the surrounding country, a handful of Maoris held it against some fifteen hundred of our troops, whose fire was more disastrous for their own comrades than for the brave little band inside the Pah. The Maoris were routed at Te Ranga, and hostilities on the East Coast put an end to. The Arawa tribe during this campaign were our allies, and did much excellent service. Hauhauism, originally a religion of a peaceful nature, started by a crazed individual named Te Ua, began to assume a dangerous form by the slaughter of seven men belonging to a British foraging party. This was owing to Te Ua's assertions that he had been visited by angels, who had told him that the extermination of the Europeans was at hand, but that all true believers (in the new faith) would be invulnerable. Because, although he personally seemed to look for the extermination being brought about by peaceful means, his warlike followers caccethes bellumferendi desired to test their invulnerability. They therefore began with the attack on the foraging party as a sort of experiment, and continued their hostilities until TO NEW ZEALAND. 37 unpleasantly convinced of the fallacy of the angelic asser- tions, or rather of their High Priest's interpretation of them. In May the Hauhaus tried their strength against a British entrenchment near New Plymouth, which resulted in the loss of sixty of their number, and must have been a severe trial to their faith : nevertheless it did not deter them from inviting the natives of the" Wanganui district to join them with the avowed intention of attacking Wanganui itself. Some of the tribes, although unfriendly to the British, objected to the violation of ancient customs by a marauding band passing through their midst without invitation or permission, and opposed their passage. A fight took place on Muloa (or Moutoa) Island (in the Wanganui River) between 100 warriors of the resident tribes and 130 Hauhaus. The former won the fight after a severe struggle, many of the incidents of which were of an highly exciting nature, adding greatly in historic interest to the beauties of this charming river, one of the most beautiful in New Zealand. After this unpleasant interfer- ence with their plans, the Hauhaus turned back eastwards, and while endeavouring to pass through Arawa territory, were again roughly handled, some fifty of their number being captured. In November the seat of government was changed from Auckland to Wellington. 1865. —In January, General Cameron objected to attack the Wereroa Pah, the enemy's strongest position, saying that his force of 2,000 men ought to be trebled for the task. Some 500 of the colonial and native troops, under the direction of Sir George Grey, however, carried the stronghold without the loss of a man, and relieved a number of military settlers in the Upper Wanganui district from Hauhau marauders. In March, Rev. C. S. Volkner murdered at Opotiki, and in July, Mr. Fulloon, the Government agent, and the crew of his cutter, massacred. A gold rush took place on the West Coast of South Island, and Hokitika came into existence; the Southern Alps likewise were scoured for gold, and many rich alluvial deposits found principally in the river beds. ThePuaPah, HungahungatoroaPah, and the Waerenga- a-Hika Pah, were captured by our troops, and some thousand hostile natives taken prisoners. This practically set the seal on East Coast Hauhauism. Among the prisoners captured in this campaign was the Chief Te Kooti, so celebrated later for his cruelty and rapacity. He, with some 186 others, was sent to the Chatham Islands, where it was thought they would be harmless. 1866. —General Chute succeeded General Cameron, took the field on the West Coast with about 1,300 troops, captured several Pahs, and marched overland to Taranaki,—a dreadful march. On his return, vid East Coast, he captured Te Ua, the Hauhau High Priest. 3* This practically concluded the operations of the Imperial troops Colonel McDonnell, wiih colonial troops, and the native contingent, adopting a similar method to that of General Chute scored several successes on the West Coast. Hawke's Bay threatened by Hauhaus, but a force of a hundred or so were utterly routed at Omaranui, near Napier, and the danger averted. Sir George Bowen was appointed to succeed Sir George Grey as Governor. lfsf.7—Messrs. Moore and Biggs murdered in the Opotiki district. An Act passed for the conversion of provincial into colonial securities.. 1868—Colonel Sir John began operations against the badgering natives of the Urewera country. Four Maori members took their seats in the House of Representatives, and financial matters pending with the Old Country were satisfactorily settled The West Coast Hauhaus, only partially discouraged by the successes scored by Colonel McDonnell, commenced to be troublesome again. At Turu Turu Mokau, in numbers of three natives to one European, they killed nine and wounded ten more of our men after a desperate fight. After this episode Colonel McDomell managed to turn the tables for a while, but owing to the inexperience of his men, and the difficulties of warfare in such a country, he had several reverses, and resigned towards the autumn of the year, being succeeded by Colonel Whitmore, who was, however, equally unfortunate. Then, as though our troubles were not sufficiently great, Te Kooti and other prisoners made their escape from the Chatham Islands. Called vpon to surrender, they refused ; being attacked they fought for their liberty, and after successfully resist- ing two attempts at capture, marched inland, and were soon joined by large numbers of natives. In November, occurred the Poverty Bay massacre by Te Kooti and his followers, the most frightful tragedy in the whole history of the war. Later, a party of friendly natives defeated this bloodthirsty monster at Te Karetu, but failed to capture him. 18G9.—Colonel Whitmore captured the stronghold of Xgatapa. In May, an expedition was undertaken against the Urewera natives: Colonel McDonnell took the Pourere Pah, near Lake Rotoaira, but still Te Kooti managed to avoid capture. 1S70.—Major Ropata organised a force, and assisted by Major Kemp (Te Kepa), scoured the Urewera country, nearly capturing Te Kooti. This Maori chief finally made good his escape, however, into the fastnesses of the Upper Warkato country, where he remained till amnestied in 1883. This was practically the closing event of the war. The same year saw the birth of Mr. (now Sir) Julius TO NEW ZEALAND. 39 Vogel's great borrowing scheme. Mr. (now Sir) William Fox had become Premier in June of the previous year, and Mr. Vogel, Colonial Treasurer. The country, owing to the drain on its resources by the war, was in need of some powerful scheme to lift it out of its depression, and Mr. Vogel was ready with something new and fascinating. His idea was to obtain, as a start, a loan of some six millions sterling, for the purposes of public works, defence, immi- gration, etc., etc. He believed that railways would not only open up the country and promote immigration, but that they would also facilitate dealings with the natives. His policy was received with great favour, and for seven years the administration of New Zealand affairs being in much the same hands, loans became the order of the day and year, the indebtedness of the Colony amounting from seven and three quarter millions in 1870, to twenty and three quarter millions in 1877. The scheme originally had many good points, but look- ing at it with the experience now gained by our heavy indebtedness, and the depressed state of the Colony in consequence, we are forced to decide that it was mis- chievous in many ways also. The public finding money so plentiful, speculated heavily in land; the whole country went up in a balloon, in fact, and a condition of inflation was produced, which inevitably ended in collapse when the borrowing ceased. But the recuperative power of New Zealand is enor- mous. There can be no question that it is by nature one of the most favoured on God's earth, and its productive- ness is already bringing it safely through its difficulties. For the tourist and the visitor, the Public Works policy has its bright side. The railways and the roads have opened up the country, and placed most of the beauties of this scenic wonderland within easy reach. For them, if for them only, there is little room for complaint, but on the whole these little loans have demoralised the public generally, and have led to extravagance, discontent, and taxes that can be ill afforded. 1872. —The New Zealand Shipping Company inaugurated. 1873. —Sir James Fergusson became Governor. 1876.—Another great change happened in the policy of the country during this year. The provinces were abolished, and the Government of the Colony permanently centred at Welling- ton. It was decided that eight little Parliaments, passing laws at the same time in a country with a population under half a million, was an absurdity. No doubt it was as matters were conducted, but it is a moot point whether provinces governed in a similar manner to the United States of America would not have worked far better than the present system. In that case each province might have chosen two representatives to sit at Wellington, which would have reduced Parliament to sixteen, and that with a 40 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Legislative Council of ten would have been ample to govern this considerably over-governed Colony, and the saving to the country would have been enormous. Perhaps New Zealand will yet adopt this scheme,—in any case it could hardly be worse than the present one. 1877.—Te Whiti, purporting to be a prophet, attracted a good many followers to his settlements of Parihaka. 1879. —Sir Hercules Robinson became Governor. 1880. —Sir Arthur Gordon became Governor. 1881. —Te Whiti, becoming more and more pleased with himself and his gradually increasing band, held monthly meetings, and being a fair speaker, impressed the people with his views regarding the wrongs of the Maoris, and accused the Government of trifling with their promises. A Commission was appointed to inquire into the charges he made, and if there was truth in them, to settle matters on a fair and rightful basis; the prophet, however, was not content with this. He encouraged trespassing on the settlers' farms, and ploughing up their lands; then gave shelter to a notorious criminal, and refused to give him up. A force of constabu- lary was despatched to capture the trespassing ploughman, but no real good was effected until a body of some 2,000 volunteers and armed constabulary surrounded the place, and quietly arrested Te Whiti, his chief Tohu, and the escaped criminal as well. The lesson was sufficient; the natives generally were glad to return peaceably home; Te Whiti and Tohu came in for feastings and an enviable amount of attention in the South, and were afterwards allowed to return with a warning. 1883. —Sir W. F. D. Jervois became Governor, the appointment causing genuine satisfaction, which has since deepened into a deep feeling of respect and regard. The New Zealand Shipping Company increased their capital and went into steam, shortening the time between New Zealand and the Old Country (direct) from an average of about ninety days down to forty-three. This same year saw the Waikato natives exhibiting a desire for intercourse. A general amnesty, which included the notorious Te Ko^ti, paved the way for more friendly 1884. relations, so that in the following year the king natives came to a satisfactory arrangement with the Government. 885.—The native minister received a Taiha (war sceptre) from Wahanui, an influential chief, as a token of peace and amity. 1886.—In March, Mr. Bryce gained bis libel action against Mr. Rusden for statements made in the latter's "History of New Zealand," and great satisfaction was expressed through- out the Colony. June 10th.—A terrible eruption occurred at Mount Tarawera, in the Hot Lake district, by which the beautiful terraces of Rotomahana were destroyed. From a tourist point of view, the loss of these marvellous natural beauties cannot be too greatly deplored, although the district is still TO NEW ZEALAND. 41 filled with wonders, among which are other terrace forma- tions, mud volcanoes, alum cliffs, boiling springs and pools, sulphur fumaroles, and lakes of wondrous shades and hues. 1887. —The last spike of the Wellington-Manawatu Private Railway was driven by the Company. The Atkinson Ministry came into power, and a policy of retrenchment was decided on. 1888. —Arrangements made for the extension of Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son's Tourist System to New Zealand, which, owing to the International Exhibition at Dunedin, and the scenic attractions of New Zealand, it is hoped will divert a large stream of tourist travel to the Colony. 1889. —The Earl of Onslow appointed Governor. With the advent of the iron horse, the general amnesty in 1883, and the satisfactory settlement with the king natives in 1884, the decrease of the Maori population and the increase of the European, the native question is never likely to be of serious importance again, and if the proposal to settle Tawhiao at Mangere, near Auckland, is satisfactorily concluded, even petty troubles ought soon to cease. We understand the Maoris better now, although we are very far from quite knowing them yet. They likewise have learnt something by the past, and are not likely to desire a repetition of the unpleasantnesses that occurred twenty years ago, even if their poverty does not suggest the advantages to be gained by a peaceful solution of any questions that may arise. For the tourists they are ever on the alert. They are fond of travellers generally,—there is an opportunity for palming off curios on them, and extract- ing a few shillings by way of tolls for seeing the sights on their land, etc. These last are, however, being properly regulated and recognised by the Government, and the repeal of the Thermal Springs Act, if it becomes law, will probably regulate the matter still further, since much of the land will likely enough be thenceforward owned by Europeans, since the Maori's exchequers are getting very low, and funds for tobacco and other comforts of civilisa- tion, such as beer and whisky, are urgently required. The country is now absolutely safe for travel or settling anywhere. The king country even, which was a sealed book till some four years ago, has been now surveyed for a trunk line of railway, and the natives have offered no opposition to travellers passing through their country for some time past. In the king country, however, travelling is rough, and hotels not to be found; in the Urewera country it is worse still. Everywhere else in New Zealand, however, travel can be enjoyed in a civilised way, and the hotels are on the whole comfortable and moderate in their charges, more so than in England, Scotland, or America. Probably no other country — certainly none we know of—has the varied attractions to offer the tourist that New Zealand possesses. 42 brett's handy guide. PART II. THE NORTH ISLAND. AUCKLAND, WAIWERA AND WAITAKEREI. J so Auckland—Corinth of the South Pacific—is pre-eminent in that respect in New Zealand, and although when compared with that of Sydney, the harbour of Auckland must take the second place, yet in the beauty of its approach to the city it is in no way inferior, nay, rather the more delicately picturesque of the two. And although in other respects it cannot vie with the scenery up the Parramatta, or the middle harbour, there are sea views all round Auckland such as no other town in New Zealand can lay claim to, notwithstanding the many solid claims to picturesque setting which Dunedin possesses, as well as those for the depth and capacity of its harbour advanced by Wellington. Major Dane, in his now celebrated lecture on " New Zealand, the Wonderland of Oceana," says that Australia will only have one great port, and that will be Sydney; New Zealand will have only one, and that will be Auckland ; and naval authorities generally seem to support that opinion. The statement as regards Sydney will meet with less contradiction than that about Auckland, and the latter can so far only be regarded as a prophecy. With its great natural beauty and safety, its greater freedom from storms, Auckland, with a canal uniting it to the Manukau, of sufficient depth for large vessels to pass through, would lie nearest to Sydney as to America; but Well- ington is nearer the centre of New Zealand, has a splendid harbour, and a safe one when once the razor-backed rocks at its entrance are passed, although there is no question that the gales which blow there are of a chronic and very powerful nature. The epithet of "Windy " Wellington, has, in fact, been justly earned. The harbours of Dunedin and Lyttelton, though good,—the former having been greatly improved artificially,—have not the natural facilities of their northern rivals, and as to the other little ports, each anxious to possess a breakwater, they will of course very shortly have to be contented with the railway communication, meant by nature to be sufficient for them, or else in a few instances possibly to become feeders to the one great port of the future, whether Auckland or Wellington. Apart from the beauties of the Auckland harbour, the view from Mount Eden is the chief attraction for visitors. Carriages can be taken beautiful harbour in Australia, 44 brett's handy guide to the summit, and 'busses pass the fort on one side and trains go near it on the other, but to any traveller on whom the " dolce far niente" influence of the atmosphere has not begun to tell, will find it a pleasant walk from the wharf, by Queen Street and Wellesley Street East, into Symond Street, thence by Mount Eden Road which runs round its base. The mount is the site of an old Maori Pah, as well as being an extinct volcano, its crater, a hollow inverted cone, remaining intact. The view from the summit is remarkably vast, and although it is mere exaggeration to compare it with that from the top of Snowdon, or to say—as has been said—that it is the finest in the world, it is unques- tionably in many respects unique. The whole of the surrounding land and water is spread out clearly below, the volcanic isthmus on which the city stands being visible in its entirety. Surrounding the mountain are many of the finest and best situated houses in Auckland, those at Mount Eden, an Extinct Volcano. the pretty suburb of Remuera, which lies nearer the harbour beyond Newmarket alone, being more imposing; near Remuera is Farnell, a populous suburb, and away to the westward the yet more populous suburbs of Ponsonby and Newton extend. There were sixty-three points of eruption noticed by Hockstetter, within a ten-mile circle of Auckland, the most notable being Rangitoto (Island) or Bloody Sky, Mount Eden, Mount Albert, and Mount Roskill. On a very clear day the lighthouse on Tiri Tiri can be seen, and beyond it northwards the Coromandel Ranges loom out, while between it and the city lie the islands known as Waiheke, Ponui, Motutapu and Rangitoto. Across the harbour is the North shore with Mount Victoria, and the North Head the Waitemata running inland from Lucas Creek. Birkenhead and Northcote lie visible on bluffs, surrounding that side of the harbour where the tide also ebbs and flows into Shoal Bay and Takapuna Bight, and sweeps against Kauri and Stokes Point. Eastward, between Waikeke and the mainland, lies BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. the mouth of the Firth of Thames, with Tamaki River and Hobson Bay, and to the south and west the Manukau Heads, Mangere, the Manukas Harbour, with the Waitakerei Ranges in full view. It is indeed a magnificent panorama. One of the pleasantest outings is by ferry boat to North Shore, then by carriage or on foot to Cheltenham Beach, and thence to Lake Takapuna, where a fine hotel has been built for the reception of visitors. Lake Takapuna will now become one of the favourite week- end resorts, as it is already a favourite place for villa residences and picnics. Another little trip for a ride or drive worth taking is to the Caves at " The Three Kings," three hills situated about five miles from the wharf. Maoris are supposed to have picniced there in the early days, since numerous bones remain, suggestive of cannibalistic ten- dencies. There is also a plea- sant drive to Titirangi, the nearest Kauri Forest to Auck- land (eleven miles). Of the longer excursions, the Waitakerei Ranges, the Nehotopu Falls, and Waiwera, are the most attractive. The Kawau, an island thirty miles from Auckland, and until quite recently the home of the veteran, Sir George Grey, K.C.B., whose name will be ever revered in Auckland, and respected wherever ability is appreciated, one of the earliest Governors of the Colony, and one who was most successful in his dealings with the natives, used to be a highly popular excursion for high days and holidays, but since Sir George Grey left and sold the island Mount Albert, Extinct Volcano. it is not visited as of yore, though a charming place for yachting and picnics. A similar character applies to the Island of Motuihi (the Quarantine Station), Motutapu, and Waiheke. In fact, in settled weather, the Auckland Harbour is the beau ideal of a yachting ground. St. Helier's Bay in one direc- tion, and River Head in the other, are favourite picnic spots also. Waiwera is the Cheltenham or Harrogate of Auckland; it can be reached from the city by steamer or coach, the respective distances being twenty and thirty miles. If agreeable, it is advisable to take the coach to Waiwera, and return by steamer. The little sanatorium is situated on the bank of the Waiwera river, on a tongue of land running into the sea. The hotel stands in well laid out grounds, with lawn tennis courts and a fountain. The mineral springs lie within a few feet of high-water mark, and there is a hot-water swimming bath and brett's handy guide TO NEW ZEALAND. 49 private baths for both sexes supplied from them. There are some caves about a mile to the southward of Waiwera, and the native village and German Settlement of Puhoi lie to the north. Matakana and Mahurangi Heads and River are other places of interest in the neighbourhood. The Waitakerei Ranges and Falls, and the Nihotopu Falls and Kauri Forest, both requiring a full day, are the favourite picnic excur- sions by land. The ranges lie some twenty miles distant, Titirangi, the most prominent peak, being only about eleven miles. From the ranges, where the carriage-road ends at present, to the falls is some distance, and horses should be taken. Going to Nihotopu, on the other hand, the carriage can be taken up to the Kauri Forest within a mile of the falls. The route to the ranges lies by way of Avondale, passing the Lunatic Asylum,—one of the finest institutions in the Colony, and one of the best managed,—New Lynn, and Waikomiti. There are splendid tree-ferns, twenty to thirty feet high, and the graceful Nikau palms flourish among the high trees and fine banks of ferns, mosses and grasses. This is certainly one of the best trips from Auckland on a fine day, and the Nihotopu Falls are also attractive and well worthy of a visit. Other of the favourite outings around Auckland are the Stud Farm at Sylvia Park, Howick, and the Ostrich Farm at Whitford Park, beyond Howick. Wednesday is the visiting day at the Stud Farm, and its distance from Auckland makes it a pleasant afternoon drive. Howick and the Ostrich Farm require a whole day, and a permit is required for the latter from Messrs. Nathan. THE NORTHERN TOUR. HOKIANGA, KAWAKAWA, RUSSELL, WHAN- GAROA, MONGONUI & WHANGAREI. Although probably the least known of all the scenic resorts of New Zealand, the scenery of this northern portion of the North Island stands unrivalled in the Colony, for the beautiful blending of effects, long vistas of river, fern-clad banks, and delicately-tinted slopes. And this region possesses an interest quite apart from that of its scenery. It is the cradle of New Zealand history. Blot out Hokianga, Herd's Point, Okaihau, Ruapekapeka, the Bay of Islands, Kororareka (Russell), Waitangi, Pahai, Te Puna, Kerikeri, and Moturoa, from the chronicles of New Zealand, and all the heroic deeds pf the early missionaries—and they were heroic; all the thrilling incidents of the early Maori wars, the treaty of Waitangi, which is still in force, the slaughter of the early French explorers,—all D 50 brett's handy guide disappear from the scene, and the why and wherefore of the present is buried irrecoverably in the past. On the other hand, to all students of history, to all who regret the decadence of the fine and manly Maori race, the northern portion of the North Island must ever be so full of genuine interest that, putting the scenery on one side altogether, they would say, "Let us begin at the beginning, let us start at the cradle and trace the Colony from its infancy," and by so doing they will learn much—notwithstanding what Mr. Rusden may think to the contrary—that was good, much that was noble, much that was un- selfish, among the many ignoble things that have been done by irresponsible persons—including runaway sailors—in the early days of New Zealand. Onehunga, on the Manukau Harbour, eight miles from Auckland, is the port whence the steamer is taken of an evening for Hokianga, and as a rule Mount Mongonui is sighted at daylight, and the picturesque expansive harbour of Hokianga reached before breakfast time. At Omapere, not far from the harbour's mouth, Mr. John Webster lives in a charming abode, surrounded by a fine garden and orchard, in which bananas and apples grow side by side, and other fruits in wild luxuriance. He and his old friend, Judge Manning (Pakeha-Maori), familiar to all who have read—and who has not—that capital book, " Old New Zealand," went hand-in-hand through many of the thrilling scenes of the " good old days," and it is to such men as they the New Zealand of to-day owes so much. When speaking of Hokianga it must be understood that it is done entirely in a collective sense. One might just as well try to put one's finger on any given spot in the world's metropolis, and say this is London, as to define exactly what is Hokianga. The harbour is fringed by low hills, thickly timbered, inclining towards each other from time to time, and which break up the inlet into links in a watery chain, each link being almost a lake of itself. And fine as is the appearance of the flanking heights of various forms, here rugged and sheer, there glistening with a silver stream or foaming waterfall, even this beauty is intensified by the know- ledge that every hill is the site of a Maori Pah, and forms a link in the chain of the Colony's early history. The fertile valley of Pakanae is not far from Omapere, thence the steam launch takes us up the harbour to Onoke, where Judge Manning first landed. The scenery is very fine in the vicinity; but on goes the launch, and we soon reach Rawena, formerly known as Herd's Point, which is the centre—the township in fact—of this Windermerian district. The view from the hill behind the township is peculiarly fine. From Rawena the launch steams through "The Narrow," a watery canon, where the banks rise in solemn sombre beauty, and brings us to Kohukohu (usually called Koku), where there is an hotel, sawmill, and on the brow of the hill, overlooking the village, Mr. Yarborough's residence. An Oxford oarsman, celebrated in the annals of his college, and an author, he awaits the time when "North-East New Zealand" shall be peopled with grateful thousands, and in a quiet way does all he can to promote the welfare of the district. The same spirit imbues Mr. Webster of Omapere, Mr. Moody of Moturoa, and Mr. Ford of Russell; and doubtless the day 52 brett's handy gcide will come, when the lazy inhabitants, and there are many content to eat what they can get, be it only their bananas, and sleep where they can, be it only under a tree-fern or on a doorstep, and who won't catch the fish which leap about round the wharves ready to be caught, because it is too much trouble,—we say the day will doubtless come, when this native blest land will turn out the loafers and wel- come the thrifty farmers, and then, but not till then, will North New Zealand become the fruitful Eden that it was made to be. From Kohukohu we steam up the Maungamuka River, and after traversing a spacious stretch of water, we pass into wooded gullies, and as the glistening surface wrinkles away astern, we turn and twist past pictures of river reaches, bush vistas, and limestone rocks, whence trickle the tiny streamlets under thick carpets of verdure into the water below. Maungungu, with its ancient cemetery, lies within easy ^ reach, but we pass on to Horeke, a coaling station, and the starting point of the coach to Kawakawa, at the point where the Waihou River joins the Maungamuka. After an interesting coach ride of forty miles past Okaihau (see Coach Routes), we reach Kawakawa, four miles from which is the native settlement of Waiomio, where the great Kawiti lived. He was allied with Heke in his successful attack on Russell (Kororareka), and in the construction and defence of those renowned Maori strong- holds, Ohaewai, Ruapekapeka, and Okaihau. The burial caves in the Waiomio Valley, which few white men have seen, are most curious lime- stone formations, some like battlemented turrets, others like ramparts, and others again of curious shapes suggestive of animals. In the celebrated cave of Nga Roku, splendid stalactites hang from the roof, unchipped, unbroken, and ungarnished with the names of seekers after cheap immortality. From Kawakawa we take the railway to Opua, and thence the steam launch "Ida" to Russell (Kororareka), the port and chief town of the Bay of Islands, situated in a bend of the bay, protected by a background of hills. Opposite to Russell is the still more historically important spot, Waitangi, where still stands the former British Residency, and where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. (See Part I., "A Brief Sketch of New Zealand History") The monument and treaty-house erected by the Maoris, just across the Waitangi River, commemorates these events. The Waitangi Falls, and the village of Pahia,—the site of one of the earliest mission churches,—are in the neighbourhood. Cape Wiwiki guards the northern entrance to the harbour, and then once inside it the capacious lagoons or inlets of Te Puna and Kerikeri open up. The village of Kerikeri—if such it can be called—lies at the end of the inlet of the same name, and is famous as the site of the first mission station of that fine old clerical pioneer, the Rev. S. Mardsen. The Kerikeri Falls are also in the neighbourhood. Motorua, a celebrated rendezvous for the looting piratical excursions of the Ngaputu tribe, and the massacre of Marion du Fresne and his sailors, stretches across the entrance, and guards—with a natural breakwater of some two miles in length—the inner harbour. On this island, broken by columns of basalt, glens and narrow gullies of quaint and picturesque beauty, Mr. Moody has built his residence. The southern extremity TO NEW ZEALAND. 53 54 brett's handy guide of the harbour is guarded by Cape Brett, a fine bold headland, from which a curiously arched rock juts into the frothing sea. Leaving Russell, the traveller should take the "Clansman" or other vessel further northward to Whangaroa and Mongonui, the beautiful scenery of the Whangaroa River—though somewhat resembling that at Hokianga—being particularly striking; in fact it is considered the most beautiful river scenery New Zealand has to show. After leaving Whangaroa, the vessel steams up to the old whaling town of Mongonui, and returns to Russell. In the usual course the steamer now heads direct for Auckland, but arrangements have been made to stop for a brief space at Whangarei, to land travellers wishing to see Whangarei and its neighbourhood, and those who decide to avail themselves of the opportunity will be well repaid. The entrance to Whangarei harbour through the heads is decidedly picturesque. The high crags look like battlements defending the town within, and there is a pleasant charm about the little homesteads lying beneath these great cliffs, and nestling on the shores of Parua Bay that dwells with one, as the little steam launch puffs away up the harbour, past Grahamstown, and stops at the railway wharf. From the wharf, a short railway ride brings the traveller to the town of Whangarei. Either the Commercial, the Settlers, or Mr. Hayes" Old Whangarei" Hotel, will doubtless supply his bodily wants, while he prepares to view the scenery and effects of interest. One pleasant day can be spent by driving out quietly in the morning for about a mile along the coach road, till the bridge over the Whangarei River is reached, where a narrow path leads into a fine gorge. From the end of this, a fine view of the Whangarei Fall, rushing over a dark basalt wall, can be obtained. Rest awhile or picnic here; then crossing the river above the old mill, and following the winding road through a charming little glen, then across the open country beyond for some two miles, and you will come to the residence of Mr. Clotworthy, within whose domain the Abbey Caves lie. Here torches or candles are necessary if you would thread the mazy fast- nesses of these stalactite caverns, whose weird, pinnacled, turreted, abbey-like portals stand before you. When within, the light of your torch will bring to your gaze shattered pendants, massive stalactites, smashed to make " a colonial Vandal's holiday," say a prayer for the Goths, who have thus ruthlessly destroyed some of Nature's most interesting work. The Wairua Falls, some 90 feet high by 380 feet wide, are, however, the "great lion" of the Whangarei, and are situated on the edge of the county, of•Whangarei, between the township and Dargaville. The scenery surrouridrng these fells is- very fine, and the fact of them being the finest cascades in "New" Zealand, of the Niagara pattern, makes them altogether well worthy of ths ricfe to Poroti. Pleasa'rft trips- ean" alsd 'be* made to-Kamo (see Coach Routes, and Directory)-; iotheWhariora Cascade-to the picturesque inlet of Ngunguru, a few miles to the-nerth of Bream Head ; to Maungatapere; to the Hikuranga Caves; to Dr. Clark's place " Glorat "; and several other spots too numerous to mention, but which combine to make Whangarei the interesting place it is. Catching the regular bi-weekly steamer, the traveller soon finds himself threading his way down to 56 bkett's handy guide. the coast and among the islands, in the picturesque harbour of Auck- land, and should arrive at the Queen Street Wharf thoroughly pleased with the beauty and interest ot North New Zealand, the cradle of the Colony's history. TE AROHA, OKOROIRE, AND THAMES. Te Aroha and Okoroire are justly celebrated for their medical springs, the Thames for its gold-fields, scenery, and giant Kauri trees, and a trip embracing the three is one of the pleasantest excur- sions from Auckland, especially when the train is taken for the first part of the journey, the return from Te Aroha being effected by boat down the Thames River and the Hauraki Gulf. Many tourists would probably prefer to visit Te Aroha and the Thames only on this trip, and take the Okoroire Springs on the way to Oxford and the Hot Lakes, if not they can take the train to Oxford from Auckland, drive thence to Okoroire and Te Aroha, and then take steamer back to Auckland; this is probably the most enjoyable way of all. TE AROHA. Te Aroha is distant from Auckland 115 miles by rail, and lies fourteen miles to the southward of Paeroa, a picturesque village some twenty-two miles south of the Thames. There are roads to the settlements of Waihou, Waitoa, and Morrinsville, and the gold-fields district of Waiorongomai is less than three miles away. The sights about the town, in addition to the Hot Springs, are the Mountain (Te Aroha—" the love ") and the Domain. There is a splendid view from a spur of the former overhanging the Baths. The whole of the Thames (Waihou) Valley is visible; the Pirongia Range, some fifty-five miles away to the left, the triple-crested Maungakaroa, and further west the view is bounded by Maungatautari's deep blue mountain. To the southward lie the great plains, across which Ruapehu's snowy crest is visible on a very clear day. The chief attraction to Te Aroha, however, is of course the baths, for which Dr. Wright claims even greater efficacy than those of Rotorua, calling the township, par excellence, the "Sanatorium of the Southern Hemisphere.! There is a bathing house, and several good hotels, with tennis court, etc., so that visitors have comforts at hand. No one can doubt, nevertheless, »."Te Aroha: Its Thermal Mineral Waters," by Dr. Alfred Wright. Te Aroha, 1E87. t Vide chapter in present volume on "Health Resorts of New Zealand," by Dr. T. Hope Lewis, M.R.C.S., Eng. _ brett's handy guide. 59 that for both Te Aroha and Rotorua there is a grand future when the great curative properties of the waters achieve the reputation they deserve, for as another medical man remarks, " Need I point further than to Harrogate, Buxton, Matlock, and Tunbridge Wells, in the Old Country, all possessing mineral springs, which do not boast a tithe of the advantages offered by these at Te Aroha, and in each instance the existence of these springs has metamorphosed little hamlets into large and prosperous towns, boasting their thousands of visitors and residents. OKOROIRE. Okoroire is yet in its infancy. Now that a suitable hotel has been erected there, with stable accommodation, it only requires a good road to possibly make it the "half-way home" between Auckland and Rotorua, as it would thus be possible to save about four miles of the journey. It lies about three miles from Oxford, and 131 from Auckland by rail, and the springs are situated in a pic- turesque bowl-shaped little dell, about two miles fr6m the Okoroire Railway Station. There are two baths, the upper and lower, both situated near the River Thames (Waihou), so that the bather can jump out of the hot spring, and take a plunge in the river if desired; there are also two natural hot-water falls, which can be taken as douche baths, or simply as an adjunct to the river bath. There is also good shooting as well as boating round about, and a beautiful waterfall of about fifty feet adds another attraction to the neighbourhood. THE THAMES DISTRICT. The townships of Grahamstown and Shortland, lying at the mouth of the Thames or Waihou River, form what is generally known as "the Thames." It is situated about fifty miles from Auckland, at the head of the Frith of Thames, the principal arm of the beautiful Hauraki Gulf, consequently the sail down the river from Te Aroha to the Thames, and thence up the gulf to Auckland, is, on a fine day, a peculiarly pleasant water excursion. The centre of attraction in the district is the gold-mining operations, which have been carried on to the disadvantage of the scenery, the river's banks being denuded of their glorious green mantle, and the river itself changed from a pure clear stream into a muddy flood, making its name a mockery. It was once a lovely river, and in parts is so still. There are frequently little incidents on the six or seven hours' trip, from Te Aroha to its mouth, not without their interest, especially if the river has, like the peripa- tetic "sun dinner," changed its bed during the previous night, and the 6o brett's handy guide vessel goes aground for a brief spell in consequence now and then, and requires a combined effort to get her off. There are several mines still working at the Thames. The once celebrated Prince Imperial and Caledonian still exist, but the Waiotahi, Albunia, and Cambria and Saxon, have of late been better Kauri Tree. properties to have shares in. There is a wide-spread impression gaining credence, that in any case the wealth of the district has been but very imperfectly tested, and that plenty of payable gold still exists and will be found when capital is obtained to work the ground properly. There are far too many individuals, however, in the country, who prefer to i BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. 65 probably before such unique and beautiful wonders can be seen again, but apart from all the splendid scenery in the South Island, beauties of mountain, lake, and fiord, the wonderland of the North Island still remains, and though shorn of one of its chief charms, it still possesses so maay others that there is little room for the'new comer to bemoan the terrible events of June, 1886. To the travellers who have seen the terraces, their loss would certainly greatly detract from the enjoyment of a second visit, but for one who never saw these lovely silica incrustations, there is so much to see still that he could hardly look for E 66 brett's handy guide more, while the evidences of the same eruption that annihilated the terraces, forms one of the most striking sights of the districts. There are three distinct ways of reaching Rotorua; * the most usual is that from Auckland to Oxford by train, thence by coach. Travellers preferring the water to the land come to Tauranga, thence by coach, and those again coming from the South Island generally choose the grand overland coach route from Napier vid Taupo. Rotorua takes its name from the lake on whose shore it lies, but the proper name of the township is Ohinemutu. It is by no means Tiki Teri Mud Springs. large or populous, and the houses are scattered. The Government Sanatorium (rebuilding), the Post and Telegraph Office, Palace Hotel, and Lake House,—the two chief hotels,—and a cluster of houses and stores form the township, with the addition of the Maori village situated on a tongue of land running into the lake. Ohinemutu is a scenic jewel well set, but with its steam jets and rumblings, is usually considered more weird than beautiful, It is the capital so to speak of the great New Zealand wonderland, embracing a large tract of country which includes Okoroire Springs, Te Aroha with its baths and springs, * Vide "Coach Routes," and " Skeleton Routes." TO NEW ZEALAND. 67 Lichfield, Tauranga, and White Island to the north, and to the south Lake Taupo and its district, including Orakeikorako, Wairakei, Taupo (with Joshua's Sanatorium), and Tokaaria. Between this region and the Yellowstone Park in America, and a wide tract of country in Niphon (the central Island of Japan), there are many points of resem- blance. The last named is most celebrated for its hot springs and baths, while the Yellowstone Park more nearly resembles the New Zealand Hot Lake district, although diverse and extensive as it is, it does not include so many wonders as its southern rival, and in no part has it such a nucleus of strangely interesting sights as around Rotorua or at Wairakei. The following are the sights about Ohinemutu, and the excursions usually made from it:—(1) Inspection of the Native Village; (2) The Sanatorium and Sulphur Point; (3) The various baths and the reserve; (4) Mokoia Island, Tikitere, and Whakarewarewa; (5) Waiotapu Valley; (6) Wairoa, Lake Tarawera, and Rotomahana; (7) The Lake trip, including Rotorua, Rotoiti, Rotoehu, and Rotorua. Unless the tourist is especially desirious of studying Maori life, manners, and customs, including the Haha or native dance,—more grotesque than refined,—an hour or so will suffice for the inspection of the native pah, which stands on the peninsula, and is comprised of several clusters of native (wharcs) huts, a rather fine meeting-house (Runanga),—with carved and painted front, and within it a statue of the Queen of England,—and a church. There are boiling pools in the village, where the potatoes, etc., are cooked ; and warm pools, where the children bathe and dive for coins. The steam from the boiling pools is directed into various holes, which act as ovens, and altogether obviate the necessity of fire. The Government Sanatorium is built some distance from the present township, near the Post-office. Around it lie the "various springs and baths, which have made the locality so famous, and which have been so ably described in Dr. Lewis's "Medical Guide to the Mineral Waters of Rotorua."+ The Sana- torium, lately destroyed by fire, is being rebuilt; it was constructed on the cottage system, one side being reserved for the fair sex, and the other for men. The terms are similar to those of a high class boarding house (say £2 per week), inclusive of medical attendance and baths; Dr. Ginders is the resident physician. The most important bath is "The Priest's Bath "; temperature of the spring, 98" to 106° Fahr. The water is acidic and aluminous. There is a large public bath and private baths supplied by this water, which is renowned for its tonic and alterative properties, acting as a stimulant to the liver. It is excellent for the skin, for certain female troubles, and for foul dyspepsia and sciatica, and in many of its properties resembles the waters at [Eaux Charides in the Basses Pyrenees. "Madame Rachel " is a bath, deriving its name from the wonder- fully softening effect it has on the skin. There are open and private baths filled with this water. It is useful in skin diseases, and cases of * Vide " Alphabetical Directory," and " Health Resorts." t "Medical Guide to the Mineral Waters of Rotorua," by Dr. T. Hope Lewis, M.R.C.S., L.S.A. Auckland: H. Brett. t Vide Eaux Charides in " 'Twixt France and Spain," by Ernest E. Bilbrough. London: Sampson Low and Co. 68 brett's handy guide rheumatism, gout, etc. The " Blue Bath," so-called from the colour of the water, is almost the same in its properties as Madame Rachel. It flows into a large swimming bath. It is employed as a change from other baths, being useful in the treatment of rheumatism, etc. Other springs in the grounds are Cameron's Bath, Coffee Pot, Pain Killer, and McHugh's Bath, all of which possess medical properties of a Bathing in the Hot Lakes. high order. There is a tennis court connected with the Sanatorium, kept green by the patent sprinklers made by Mr. Malfroy, for some years connected with the establishment. At present the baths of Rotorua are but little known. Some day the great South Pacific Health Resort will be frequented by thousands of sufferers, like the Pyrenees and the German Spas, in comparison, to which it will never take second place; many of the cures that have been effected there TO NEW ZEALAND. 69 have not only been wonderful but lasting,—terms not always synony- mous by any means in this connection. Sulphur Point is an odorous and decidedly dangerous locality to frequent without a guide on the shores of the lake in the Sanatorium Reserve. There are several baths round the Township of Rotorua, notably Clear Bath, and Muddy Bath at Lake House; Waikiti, connected with Mrs. Morrison's Hotel; the Palace Hotel Bath; the Lobster Bath; and others. At Whakarewarewa there is the Spout Bath, the Oil Bath, and the Alum Bath, and as there is an hotel close to this village now, where patients can comfortably stay, a course of these excellent waters can be taken under satisfactory conditions. There are also several springs and baths at Ariki Kapakapa, about one-and-a-half miles from Rotorua, and at Tikitere about ten miles away, the baths at this latter spot being especially serviceable in cases of chronic rheumatism,— unfortunately, however, the accommodation is only very rough. Among the excursions in and around Rotorua, the most interesting of all is that to Wai-o-tapu Valley, since in one day in that valley a sample of almost, if not quite, all the other sights of the wonder- land can be seen; it is the excursion therefore for the unfortu nate traveller who has only one day to spare. A very early start should be made, so that the twenty-mile drive may be broken on the road for the tourist to ascend the fern slopes of Pareheru, and see the district destroyed by the eruption, the view being the most comprehensive one. Leaving the Maunga Kakaramea, or Rainbow Hill, on the left, and Lake Ngarhewa on the right, the road enters the valley, and for the present ends—though it is hoped that it will be extended past Scott's Bungalow to the chief sights in the valley. At present, however, the rest of the trip, including all the sight scenery, has to be made on horseback or on foot. There are a great number of wonders to see, the green lakes, mud geysers, boiling pools, teapot mud cone, gaseous pools, sulphur fumaroles, decomposing earth slopes, multicoloured pools, soda water lake flowing over the new mauve terrace, primrose terrace, alum cliffs, and the great mud cone, the most important in the district. The green lakes are as green as grass, a most wonderful hue, the large mud volcano is a great sight, as also the alum cliffs, and small primrose terrace. There are several deposits of different coloured earths, especially on Kakaramea, and bottles can be filled with samples of these inlayers, presenting a very gay appear- ance. No travellers should venture over this district without a guide who knows the country well. It is a most interesting trip, though only thoroughly to be recommended to people with easy consciences. Were a very narrow-minded parson to take up his abode there, and sermonise to tourists, he would not find a lack of similes to enforce his probable view of the future that awaits the wicked—he would be able to find at least a dozen different" horrors " there. If time allows, Whakarewarewa can be visited on the return, or can form part of the following trip. Mokoia Island and Tikitere make a pleasant day's outing. Sail from Ohinemutu to the island,—seeing there Hinemoa's Bath, the Skeleton in the Grove, and the Coronation Stone,—thence sail across to Te Ngae, the old Mission Station, and drive to Tikitere; see its great seething mud cauldrons, walk over to Lake Rotoiti, and drive back vid the BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE cemetery; see Bainbridge's Monument, and thence by way of Sodom and Gomorrah—two terrible desolate spots—to Rotorua. To Wairoa, before the eruption, there was an excellent coach road. The mud scattered over the country by that catastrophe, however, being impervious to rain, caused the water to collect in the various cuttings, and completely washed away the road, so that the ten-mile trip has Camping Out on Lake Tarawera. now to be performed on horseback. It is quite possible by starting at daybreak to go to Wairoa, thence be rowed across Lake Tarawera by a Maori crew to the mountain, climb the summit, seeing the craters and the whole scene of the eruption, and back to Rotorua in one day; but it is pleasanter in summer to camp out at Wairoa for a night, if satis- factory terms and arrangements be made. By reading a description of Wairoa, Tarawera, and the terraces as they were,* the fearful * " A Weird Region," by Thomson W. Leys. H. Brett, Auckland. TO NEW ZEALAND. 71 "abomination of desolation " which now exists can be the more fully realised. Whaharewarewa lies about two and a half miles from the present town- ship of Ohinemutu. It is one of the most interesting places to see, notably on account of its| great geyser, Waikiti, which spouts from twenty to forty feet. Its fine cone forms the summit of a very fair white terrace, as seen from below, giving probably the best idea in the district what the white terrace was. The native village, the children diving in the pools, sulphur fumaroles, boiling mud pools, the inactive little geyser, where captured chiefs' brains were cooked for the great haugis or feasts, and at the other end of the village the spout bath and others, are among the many points of interest this place contains. Sodom and Gomorrah are not far distant, and the cemetery is near to them which contains the monuments to the Europeans who were killed in the eruption. Sodom is a decomposed mass of sul- phur tumuli, and diatomaceous earth. Gomorrah contains a black lake with similar sulphur piles to Sodom; both are places one is glad to leave behind. The Lake Trip.—For those who like camping out, and wild fowl shooting, this trip is a very enjoyable one. Special arrangements have to be made for it, and about four days allowed; it could be done in three, but five would be preferable. Numerous other little trips can be made in the neighbourhood and altogether from a fortnight to three weeks can be very pleasantly spent in the district, though the traveller pressed for time can see a great deal in a week. TAUPO AND WAIRAKEI. Taupo can be reached from the south by coach from Napier, from the north by coach from Rotorua or Lichfield. It lies on the shores of the lake of the same name—the largest in New Zea- land—twenty-four miles long, by an average of about fifteen miles in breadth. The views over the lake are most beautiful, especially the clear sunrises and sunsets, extending over Tokano (Tokaanu), the snow green Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe, the active volcano of New Zealand. There are now two launches on the lake which can be had for excursion purposes. The proprietor of the "Tauhara," of 30 tons burden, the only one recommended for extended trips, is willing to charter her for £5 per day. She will accommodate twenty- five persons, or ten if sleeping room is required. Tokano, about twenty-six miles across the lake, to go and return from which the launch takes fully eight hours, can be visited in one day if a very early start is made, but is best if a party can be found to take this vessel for three, or at least two days, visit the island and its caves, and see the fine scenery on the western shores, the caves and waterfalls there, and wake the powerful echoes under " Echo Bluff." There is good shooting on and about the lake in winter, and arrangements can be 72 brett's handy guide made for the same. Tokano (fifty miles by road) can also be reached on horseback, or by vehicle when the Tongariro or lower Waikato River is fordable, and the journey can be prolonged to 'Tongariro. Among Source of the Upper Waikato River at Lake Taupo. the other lengthy excursions from Taupo, must be mentioned Orakei Korako, as being especially interesting, though it is a trip that entails * Vide Taupo, "Alphabetical Directory." TO NEW ZEALAND. 73 a certain degree of either hard riding or rough quarters. The alum cave and bath there, and the terrace formation, are well worth seeing. The ascent of Tauhara (3,600 feet), which dominates the Taupo dis- trict, i; to ba recommended, the view being splendid from the summit. The sulphur holes round Rotokawa (Bitter Lake), eight miles to the north-east of Taupo, are also well worthy a visit, as ii also Karapiti, a large steam hole about ten miles away. The tourist will elect whether to stay in the township or at the "Spa," Mr. Joshua's Sanatorium, less than two miles away, at Glen Lofley. If he prefers a lake view he will stay in the former at the Lake Hotel, where he will be made comfortable; if he enjoys a novel and pleasantly-luxurious mode of living in the vicinity of the wonders of Taupo, with a grand swimming bath to disport himself in, he will choose the latter course. There he will sleep in a cottage on the Continental dependence principle, go to another cottage for his dinner, and another for his smoke, yet another for his bath, and yet another for the society of the ladies. Invalids of all kinds receive special TONGARIRO AND NGAURUHOE. attention at the " Spa," and there are four baths—alum, sulphur, oil bath, and swimming bath, while a fifth, of the Madame Rachel class, is being made. Within a pleasant morning stroll are all the sights of the locality. Down by the lovely Waikato River is the "Crow's Nest" Geyser, active from September to January, and one of the highest in New Zealand. Close by is the Witches' Cauldron and Satan's Glory, and a hundred yards away " Paddle-wheel Ben,"—from which a sound exactly like paddle-wheels issues,—and other weird sights. Seven miles away by a very fair road lies WAIRAKEI. This region is justly celebrated for the remarkable number of genuine natural wonders clustered together in a small space. There is accom- modation for a limited number at the Geyser Hotel on the property, TO NEW ZEALAND. 75 but new and larger buildings must be erected to cope with any regular tourist traffic. People passing through from Rotorua to Napier frequently stay a night or two there; others prefer to make the " Spa" their head-quarters, and drive over to see Wairakei. The vehicle can be taken within a few yards of the various objects of interest, which is a great convenience for ladies. River Waikato, from Lake Taupo. The finest sight at Wairakei is the first which tourists are generally shown by the guide, called " The Champagne Pool," but artists should take note that the place to see it from is across the river, and not from the spot where you visit it first. It is a fierce bubbling, boiling cauldron, picturesquely placed, and there are two small mud cauldrons or paint pots close by. Not far away is the " Small Wairakei " geyser, remark- able for the varied colouring of the ground and wells behind it; and 76 brett's handy guide River Waikato, Hot Lake District. TO NEW ZEALAND. 77 near this is the " Great Wairakei," the largest geyser in the district, playing every six minutes about ten to twenty-five feet about the cone with good volume, but with twenty to forty feet less range than the Crow's Nest at Taupo. The next sight is the donkey engine, and a "boiler " like "Satan's Glory." Thence the guide takes you across the river (Wairakei) and up the opposite bluff, whence you have a fine view of the Great Geyser, and look down into the petrifying water, with the Black Geyser playfully bubbling. Passing the delicately-tinted white and pink porridge pots, wonders of boiling mud (of which the white is eatable), you come to the beautiful blue lake,—really a most exquisite turquoise,—and next to this the " Prince of Wales' Feather " Geyser, playing every half-hour, with two weaker jets to herald the same. On one side of this is a "blackish boiler," and on the other, the most interesting geyser of all, "The Twins," which performs every four minutes. It is well to view it from below, because you can not only see it playing better thence, but you get an excellent view of the terrace formation, of which it is a part, and which with that at Whakarewarewa is now one of the best remaining examples. Some of the silica incrustation round "The Twins," is particularly delicate and graceful. Crossing the river again, the guide takes you to Terikiriki, a perpetually-fizzling boiler, thence to the big pool, where the steam action under ground makes a sound that is known as the steam hammer, though it is less noisy than it used to be. After these wonders have been fully enjoyed, the beautiful Huka Falls in the Waikato remain to be seen, and it is a part of the excursion which should never be omitted. They can also be reached on foot from the "Spa," but it is generally pleasanter to take them either going or returning from Wairakei, as the road passes beside the river in full sight of them. The river, confined in a narrow rocky channel just above, rushes forth in a great white mass, making the falls. The spray sprinkles the tree ferns that cluster below in a sheltered little nook, and grow luxuriantly. One individual with more enthusiasm than sense formerly advertised that these falls were un- surpassed even by Niagara. The statement is absolutely misleading; and it is absurd inflations of this kind which have disappointed travellers so much in many other countries, and which should be guarded against at all times, but especially with regard to a country like New Zealand, which possesses so much beautiful scenery—much of which, indeed, could hardly be over estimated. The Huka Falls are not over thirty feet in height, but they are unquestionably fine, and the shade of the snowy water falling into the dark bottle green of the flowing river is most artistically beautiful. There is a way down beside the fall, on the Wairakei side, for anyone who wants a spray bath, but it is not wise to take ladies down there. The view (after the little suspension bridge is crossed) from the seat on a little plateau above the river is peculiarly good, the terrace formations on what was doubtless the original river bank being especially regular and interesting. Taken as a whole, the trip to Taupo—particularly by the splendid coach ride from Napier, with a stay at the " Spa" and a day or two at Wairakei—is among the very best New Zealand has to offer; and although one may have an objection to being " always in hot water," 78 brett's handy guide still, when you gather the rare hot-water fern* (found at Wairakei and Orakei Korako), enjoy luxurious baths, and see such wonderful sights, and yet sleep in peace, safety, and comfort, one can stand the boiling pools with comparative composure, and even disassociate entirely from disagreeable anticipations the sulphurous odours which at times prevail. THE WANGANUI RIVER AND KING COUNTRY. One of the pleasantest camping-out excursions in the Colony is a week's "pull" up the Wanganui River, in a boat or Maori canoe. There are places all the way full of historic interest, and the river itself is exceedingly picturesque. From the Flagstaff Hill of Wanganui, looking across the river, rising above the many dusky interlocking summits, stands the peerless snow-crowned Queen Ruapehu (9,000 ft.). The river near the town is of good proportions and depth, and is navigable for vessels of light draught for something like a hundred and twenty miles, and about one hundred and forty- five for canoes. Between Wanganui and Aramoho is the regatta course, and seven miles up Upokongaro, or Kennedy's, a delightful little place to pull to, with a hotel, theatre, etc. Thence to Kaiwaiki (fourteen miles), the river winds a good deal, and the banks are well covered with wood. At Parekino and Athens (Atene), there are native settlements, and at London (Ranana), Major Kemp, one of the natives who rendered such signal service to our troops during the Maori war, has some 2,000 acres under cultivation, and a Council Chamber (whare-puni) of fine dimensions. Near there is the island of fMoutoa, so celebrated in the early days; below Ranana is Corinth (Koroniti), and above Jerusalem, or Hiroharama, and Pipiriki. Be- yond this last-named spot is the junction of Wanganui River with the Manganui-a-te-ao, a sweet thing in names. Ti Eke is next reached, and thence through beautiful scenery the river winds to Tawhata, and past Omaka Beach to Taumaranui, where the river trip ends. Lake Taupo is only about twenty-five miles distant, and from the hills above it, the Upper Wanganui and Mounts Ruapehu, Ngaurahoe and Tongariro can be seen. From Taumaranui overland to Te Awamutu, or Alexandra, is a famous saddle trip, for those fond of riding, while it has the merit of being but seldom done. The people of Waimiha are obliging and polite. Te Kuiti is celebrated as the scene of Te Mahuki's objection- able behaviour, and brings one to civilisation again, as the railway now starts from here; though, till lately, the trip had to be extended via Haerehuka to Kihikihi (with its three hotels), and thence to Te Awamutu, before the railway was reached. * Nephrolepis cordifolia. t Vide Part I., Chap. III. TO NEW ZEALAND. 79 8o BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. Ruapehu, Tokaanu, and Taupo can also be reached by Field's track from Wanganui, another very interesting ride; in fact, Wan- ganui, besides being a very pretty compact little place in itself, and the centre of splendid agricultural country, is the starting point for several important excursions, and is probably destined to be a more important place, both from a commercial and tourist point of view, at no very distant date. WELLINGTON, THE HUTT, AND RIMUTAKA RAILWAY. Although Government was originally administered from Auck- land, it was transferred thence to Wellington in 1864, and though the change seemed to have little effect on trade and population re- turns in the northern city, Wellington has benefitted greatly thereby, as its steady business and census increase shows. Nature never intended Port Nicholson (contracted to Poneke by the lazy Maori) to be any more of a town than Lyttelton; thus, Port Nicholson for the convenience of its citizens, should have remained the port, with the City of Wellington further inland, instead of becoming port and city in one, and thrusting its inhabitants up the steep hillsides and gullies to find a cranny sufficiently large to rest the foundations of a house on. But this does not detract from the picturesqueness of the city—far from it—and the fact that the guardian hills hem in the town in such a way as to prevent any spreading in that direction, has made the capital, or "the Empire City"—as its citizens delight to have it called—the most compact of all the large towns in New Zealand. As previously mentioned, Wellington possesses a splendid harbour, circular in form, and well protected on all sides, so that it has little to fear from a foreign foe, unless the armed cruisers could successfully shell the town from Cook's Strait. It has one of the finest wharfs in the colony, as well as the largest wooden building in existence— the Government Buildings. Government House is a fine building also, and the House of Parliament has a pleasant quaintness, especially when viewed from the street below, with its dainty willows and other trees. Some of the gullies and native bush to the rear of the City have been utilised to form a "domain," and one can ramble about there listening to the perpetual clatter of the "cigalas" (misspelt cigadas), quite unmindful of the near proximity of the clatter of trade waggons, and the hum of the thousand worshippers of mammon, busy in the streets below. The view from the hills in this domain, though by no means equal to that from the more lofty heights which close in the town, is very beautiful, embracing all the city from Newtown to Thorndon, extending to the Lower Hutt—where the river of that name enters the harbour—and completely over the harbour, with the quarantine island, and the heights commanding the grand watery expanse. The Lower Hutt, some nine miles from the city, is the favourite yachting ground, and McNab's Gardens are there situated. F THE SOUTH ISLAND. THE NORTHERN SOUNDS OF THE SOUTH ISLAND. Although rapid strides are now being made with a view to combine the West Coast Sounds, Southern Lakes, and Mount Cook region in one continuous trip, there is nevertheless considerable difficulty in reaching the West Coast Sounds except at the season when the Union S.S. Company run their special excursions thither; in fact, that is the only way these Sounds can be at all adequately seen for some time to come; consequently, it is only those tourists arriving in the Colony at the season when the excursions are made, who can include these " scenic southern solitudes " in their programme. To the rest, the Northern Sounds offer some compensation, though it must not be imagined that they approach those of the South West either in variety or beauty. They are like a few bars taken from a page of music,—they suggest what the rest could be like. They have another interest, however, above their charms of scenery. They are wrapped in a mantle of history. The most important of them,* Queen Charlotte Sound, saw the first unfurling of the British Flag, when Cook took possession of New Zealand, in the name of the king. Between Picton—lovely picturesque little Picton—which lies at the head of the Sound, and Blenheim, the fWairau Massacre took place; and at Nelson, which belongs to the Northern Sounds' trip, the New Zealand Company formed one of their earliest settlements. Near Nelson is theFrench Pass and D'Urville Island,both of historic interest; in fact, the whole of this portion of the Southern Island and Cook's Strait is wrapped up in the early records of New Zealand. At present there are no regular excursions in Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounds, but such a state of things is not likely to remain much longer, for both these Sounds with their arms and inlets are full of beauty, and offer attractions for a brief holiday cruise, which must make them popular so soon as the regular tourist travel sets towards New Zealand. At holiday seasons parties are organised, and a small launch or steamer chartered for this trip, starting generally from • Vide Part I. t Vide Brett's " Early History of New Zealand." 88 brett's handy guide Wellington or Picton; but by the regular steamers Pelorus Sound is left out in the cold, and Queen Charlotte's is only partly seen. There are several ways of making the trip. The most usual is from Welling- ton by the staunch little boats of the Union S.S. Company, across Cook's Strait and up Queen Charlotte's Sound to Picton, thence back along the Sound into the Straits again, and by the French Pass to TO NEW ZEALAND. 89 Nelson, and vice versa to Wellington; or from Nelson to Greymouth or Hokitika, the latter for the great coach ride through the Otira Gorge, and thence to Christchurch:—or again, from Nelson to New Plymouth and Auckland. Having come across from Christchurch to Hokitika, when the weather permits crossing the bar, steamer can be taken to Nelson, and the trip made thence: or when the coach road between Hokitika, Westport, Buller, Reefton, and Nelson is in suitable order, that can be chosen instead of the steamer, and some of the finest scenery in New Zealand seen on the way. Taken on the whole, however, the best way to make the most of the trip is to take steamer from Wellington to Picton, thence rail or carriage to Blenheim (seeing the Wairau Massacre Monument en route), Picton. thence by coach to Nelson, returning to Wellington via Picton. By this route a certain amount of time can be spent on the trip, and there is the possibility of seeing Queen Charlotte Sound under two different aspects. Few countries can boast of having such beautiful approaches to so many of their towns as New Zealand. From Port Chalmers to Dunedin makes a charming little steam; the entrance to Akaroa is very inviting; away to the north, Hokianga and Russell are two most daintily posed townships, and for a large town Auckland stands most attractively, the long entrance to the harbour having much in common with the entrance to that of Singapore, while the town, though lacking * _ go brett's handy guide that particular picturesqueness peculiar to eastern cities, gains all that it loses on that score from its more prominent position and construc- tion,—a very striking feature which Dunedin also excels in. Taking all these into consideration with their several beauties, and comparing them with the position of Picton, and the beauty of the approach thereto, either from land or sea, one must give the palm to Picton. A good trade may someday develop at this little port, but it is never likely to be a big town, a huge commercial centre. Such a fate would yield occasion for regret. It is essentially a health and holiday resort, a bower of beauty for the lover of nature, a peaceful retreat for the overworked "City man," and a paradise for yachtsmen. A cruise to Shakespeare's Bay, the Tory Channel, and round Pelorus Sound in summer, is as delightful as even imagination could picture; a ride over the ranges to Havelock, though long, is most enjoyable to those who love " bush" (forest) scenery ; and there are several smaller excursions round about in the vicinity, not forgetting the drive to the Massacre Monument already alluded to. Blenheim, the capital of Marlborough province, lies some twenty miles away, on the Opawa River, at the head of a small bay. Small steamers can get up to the town. It is a pretty place, but flat, and as a result of this latter characteristic, being in the middle of the water- shed, it is subject to floods more frequently than the inhabitants deem either necessary or pleasant. It is the centre of a very rich tract of country, so rich in fact that one can quite understand why the natives in the early days did not care to part with it for next to nothing. Not far from Blenheim, near the line, stands the house of Mr. Redwood,— a gentleman widely known throughout the district, and proudly designated " the father of the New Zealand Turf." Although by no means so beautifully " set " as Picton, Nelson, or "Sleepy Hollow,"—as it is commonly and not unwisely called—is a very finely-situated town. Its position and atmosphere, though sug- gestive of health, have a sort of undercurrent of peaceful dreaminess. There is a far-from-the-madding-crowd kind of feeling about the town, which pleases the newcomer tired of the " City's busy hum," and the average American would possibly vote it slow. After a man has resided there awhile, he views the busy bustling newcomer with quite as little approbation; and although careful to look after his orchard or his hop field, he looks upon early rising with aversion, eager com- petition with disdain, and the "auri sacra fames" with contempt. There are many pleasant excursions around Nelson, both by land and water, and it is a place that a week can be spent at almost any time, with pleasure. Its cathedral occupies a prominent position, and it possesses several particularly good schools. One of the most interest- ing parts of this Northern Sounds' trip is the steam through the "French Pass" by moonlight. The Pass is narrow, and the water rushes through at a great rate, and on one side the "cruel rocks" loom up with ominous distinctness. But the watchful eyes on the bridge know the twists and turns so well that they can go through in safety on the darkest night, so that the traveller can enjoy all the novelty of something akin to " rapid shooting," with but little of the risk. All the rest of the coast is interesting as well, and should some of the Maori boats push off with fish, etc., for the Wellington market, TO NEW ZEALAND. 91 another pleasant little diversion takes place, far more interesting by moonlight than under the mid-day sun. Taken as a whole, this trip is one that should not be omitted, although so far it has rarely been recommended: and when other arrangements are made so that Pelorus Sound can also be seen, we predict a popularity for the excursion, and the continuation thereof by coach through the magnifi- cent Buller Gorge and also the Otira Gorge beyond on to Christ- church, which may possibly astonish the inhabitants of peaceful Picton and dear old dreamy Nelson. CHRISTCHURCH. Like all the other principal towns in the Colony, Christchurch has its distinct characteristics. It is decidedly the most English with a rather Oxonian flavour, in spite of its river being called the Avon. It is quite unlike the other three cities, in being situated on a level plain, —the celebrated Canterbury plains,—and though losing much that would be picturesque about it on that account, it nevertheless gains by adapting itself more easily to the block and square system, with straight streets and crossroads of an innocent unbewildering nature. It is the " Cathedral City " of New Zealand, and founded by the High Church party of the Episcopalians, it still retains the odour of the Church about it, just as Dunedin preserves its odour of the Kirk. It is distinctly a pleasant town to visit, and with its University and Museum, its beautiful gardens and the daintily winding Avon, it seems to form a link with the Old Country, such as no other city or town in New Zealand can boast of. By its artesian well system the gardens of the wealthier residents are kept fresh and bright during the hottest summer, and the Canterbury plains can fairly lay claim to possessing their share of the summer heat. The avenue beside the gardens is a beautifully cool retreat, and the gardens themselves are a great credit to the town, being not only well kept, but tastefully laid out, and full of many choice flowers and shrubs. Xhe river, too, is a great source of pride, and although the poet is so far unborn, or at least unknown, who is to make the Avon of New Zealand famous as the river of his birthplace, yet for a quiet unpretending river it is at once so sinuous and so shady—not to speak of its speckled trout—that a row up or down it of a summer afternoon is really about the pleasantest occupa- tion that Christchurch can offer you. The Cathedral is a fine building, as is the Museum and several of the Colleges, Schools, Offices, Banks, and Hotels. Like Dunedin, it has a port of its own—Port Lyttelton—and the tunnel bored through the Port Hills to facilitate communication, at the instance and under the supervision of Sefton Moorhouse, has endeared that gentleman's name to the citizens of the Cathedral City, so great a boon has it proved to the Province. It was certainly a tremendous undertaking. 93 Port Lyttelton is situated in a semicircle of hills, and as far as its natural features are concerned is rather suggestive of Amoy. The breakwater is a tine bit of work, and has added to the safety of the harbour, which, however, will never entitle Lyttelton to rank as a first- class port. The entrance between the lofty bluffs, which form the Heads is imposing, but manifestly dangerous. The first view of the port itself is unquestionably pleasing. Christchurch is the starting point of the famed coach ride to Hokitika, through the Otira Gorge, train being taken as far as Spring- field, and the coach from thence. In smaller excursions, the City is not prolific. There is, however, the pleasant trip to Akaroa via Little The Kaikouras. River, returning vid Pigeon Bay, which is much patronised from Saturday to Monday in summer, and the shorter trip to Sumner, which forms, with New Brighton, a popular seaside resort near the City. There are other rides and drives about the neighbourhood, such as to the Agricultural College at Lincoln, but nothing of any special import- ance beyond those already mentioned. It is a very pleasant place to stay in autumn, and forms a nice change from Auckland. TO NEW ZEALAND. 95 MOUNT COOK AND ITS GLACIERS. Aorangi, better known as Mount Cook, has, till quite recently, raised his snowy crest to the heavens, and dominated over a region but rarely visited by man. He has ever been regarded with admiration, but that admiration has been inspired from a distance, and cannot compare with the sentiments engendered by a visit to his realms, now a comparatively easy task. To the traveller who is un- familiar with mountainous regions, the scenery around Aorangi will be pregnant with great surprises and delight, while even to those who are familiar with the Swiss Alps, the Pyrenees, or any of the still loftier ranges, Aorangi and Mount Sefton, and the glaciers that lie at their feet, will still prove more than worthy of a visit, partly owing to the fact that the Tasman Glacier—eighteen miles long by two in width—is larger than any in Europe, being more extensive than the largest in 'Switzerland, and is probably the largest existing outside of the Himalayas and Alaska. When a few wire-rope bridges have been erected, and some other improvements made, tourists will be enabled to visit this celebrated glacier from "the Hermitage," the cosy little hotel built in a central but protected position between Mount Sefton and Mount Cook. As it is, however, the Mueller Glacier is within easy access, and there is scenery and glacial work of sufficient interest to keep the traveller busy for a fortnight easily. It must be understood that for real glacial work, crossing the mer de glace of any of the glaciers, or ascending any of the lofty peaks, a complete equipment must be taken, and no one could attempt the ascent of either Mount Cook or Sefton, without calculating at present on an outlay of some- thing like /50, possibly more. They offer every attraction to the ambitious Alpine climber, for of neither has the summit yet been reached, although Mr. Green claims to have practically accomplished this feat as regards Mount Cook, in having arrived within some forty feet of the summit, which he states bad weather alone prevented him from f reaching. There are many excursions that can be made from the Hermitage, however, which, though free from the ambitious character of ascents only practicable to trained mountaineers, are nevertheless unique in New Zealand, and of great interest generally. Within an easy walk of the hotel, there are several small mounds and hills, from which fine views of the snow monarchs can be obtained, and from Mount Sealy (8,700 feet), or even from Mount Huddlestone, or other of its minor peaks, a most comprehensive and far-reaching panorama is unfolded to view. Half an hour brings the traveller to the terminal face of the Mueller Glacier, and although the moraine debris is a little rough, the work is quite within the capacity of ladies, provided they leave their fashionable * The great Aletsch glacier in the Alps is fifteen miles long; some of the Himalaya glaciers are very considerably larger, and the Muir glacier in Alaska is about fifty miles in length. t " The High Alps of New Zealand," by Rev. G. W. Green. London : Longmans & Co MAP VIII. PLAN OK GHnACIKMS &.C. ROUND THE HERMITAGE, MTCOOK. MAP IX. brett's handy guide. 97 "high heels" at home, and don good, serviceable boots. This little excursion is full of interest, and will convey from practical observation more information in glacial actions than volumes of theory, or even descriptions from the ablest pens. You can see the work going on. The great stones, piled one above the other, of a formation which tells at once they come from mountain tops: the great boulders tell their tale, and the masses of stone ground to pieces show the " strain they have had to bear." Then the Mueller River, bursting forth from below the solid ice, muddy and swift: the ice caves: the great walls of ice with the pinnacles of frozen snow: the hills, half of ice half of stone, which under the sun's rays become very dangerous neighbours: all these different objects of interest make this preliminary excursion an enjoyable one. To those who think with Ruskin, that " the slope of a great alp is the best image the world can give of Paradise," the walk up the White Horse Hill, close to the Hermitage, will be a great favourite. From the crest of this hill Mount Cook and Mount Sefton are in full view, and to watch the clouds " like the drifted wings of many companies of angels," playing round their noble summits, or the sunrise gilding them with the early morning glory, or the sunset flooding them with a blushing beauty more delicate than a girls', will be all sufficient enjoy- ment for many an hour. In fact the beauty of the sunlight and cloud effects are far beyond description. There are some short excursions and moderately easy climbs within reach of the Hermitage, in addition to the exploration of the Glaciers, and the giants to which they belong; Governor's Camp and Black Birch Creek is one of the former. The ascent of Huddlestone Peak in the Sealey Range, and Mount Sebastopool, are two of the latter. The General Manager of the " Hermitage " has studied the notes and habits of the birds in the vicinity to that degree, that he can collect a crowd of parrots round him at will, carry on a conversation with the bell-like makomako, or lure the timid weka from its retreat. The display of his powers in this direction forms quite a feature in a picnic to Governor's Camp. A most interesting outing, but one which entails some rough walking, is the trip to the fort of Mount Sefton via the Mako valley. There, ice cascades, mills (moulins), shafts, tables and hills can be seen, as well as the whole eastern base of the mountain itself. The return can be made across the Mueller Glacier, and over the Sealey Range. For botanists, the most delightful specimens of sub alpine and high alpine flora are awaiting them in the valley of the Upper Hooker, including the Grant ranunculus. The high alpine plants have been borne down on the face of past glaciers, and are nowhere else found at this altitude. Edeliveiss can be gathered up Birch-tree Creek. The bridging of the Hooker River will act as an " open sesame " to the greatest treasures of this region. A track can then be made up the Tasman Valley,—which Dr. Lendenfeld and his wife so pluckily explored five years ago,—and thence the ascent of Mount Cook or of any of the less lofty summits can be attempted. The Ball and Hochstetter Glaciers, in addition to the Great Tasman Glacier, can also be brought within reach of ordinarily stalwart travellers by the same means. In fact, the expenditure of a thousand G BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. 99 pounds judiciously in this region would have a most useful effect, and a great deal of necessary work could be done for that sum. The region wants developing. It is an idyllic spot for a Swiss village, and if the suggestion to establish one there is only fostered, and does not remain merely a suggestion, there can be no doubt that it would become one of the great mountaineering centres of the world. Waimakiriri Glacier, Christchurch and Hokitika Road. The " Alpine Club " want a new field, and here a magnificent one awaits them, with beauties and difficulties sufficient for the most enthu- siastic, the most daring, the most agile. And when it is considered that this village can be built in a smiling little sheltered plain, pro- tected completely from the avelanches which thunder down the white slopes by hills of moraine debris, there is every inducement for a few Swiss families and guides to face the ocean voyage. No IOO brett's handy guide TO NEW ZEALAND. IOI doubt the several goatherds could get employment on the stations for mountain work at wages which they will never earn among the hills of Savois, lovely as they are. Such a settlement, with a large comfort- able hotel (such as we have no doubt the present company would build if inducement offered), with billiard and drawing-rooms for possible wet days, would make this glorious Alpine region as great a favourite as Davos Platz or Chamounix, with greater natural attractions within easier reach than either. No one should leave New Zealand without DUNEDIN, PORT CHALMERS, NICHOL'S CREEK, TAIERI. If Wellington is the most compact, and Auckland the most picturesque, Dunedin is certainly the best built town of the Colony, while at the same time possessing strong claims to be con- sidered handsome and well set. It does not possess the natural harbour advantages of Auckland and Wellington, but within the last two years, Port Chalmers (some twelve miles distant from it), formerly its port and chief trading and shipping centre, has been more or less abandoned, and it is a point of which its citizens may well be proud. They have aided and improved nature to the extent of making a navigable channel to the city itself, with wharves suitable for the loading and discharging of even large steamers, such as the Union S.S. Company's " Hauroto." The city possesses many fine buildings, banks, insurance offices, high school, grammar school, and some of the best specimens of church architecture in the Colony. It is a city built among the hills, a little like Wellington, but with more room to spread, and companies have successfully introduced the system of cable tram- ways to aid in the population of the suburbs. It is the outlet for a grand agricultural country, and since all who are wise and know anything about' political economy naturally look to the land for the solidity and pros- perity of a nation or a country, Dunedin, with the grand hill-sides and plains of Otago at its back, should be certain of a great future. Its citizens, too, descended from thrifty Scotch families, who still preserve their national characteristics under rather more genial conditions and in a warmer though still rather fickle clime, lead a more careful economical existence than the inhabitants of the northern cities, and its farmers, imbued with a similar spirit, are likewise more successful and consequently more contented than those of the North Island, or even of its neighbouring province Canterbury, though of course it is well known that land in the South is less expensive to clear for cultiva- tion. It is the usual starting point for the excursion to the West Coast Sounds, and for people coming by steamer from Melbourne, is the favourite place for disembarkation, though "the Bluff" is largely patronised by those wishing to go direct to the Southern Lakes. 102 brett's handy guide Presbyterian Church, Dunedin. io4 brett's handy guide There are not many minor excursions round the city itself of much interest. The domain is prettily laid out, and there are some good walks on the hills behind the town. Its marine suburb, St. Clair, where the baths are situated, is just a pleasant distance from the city, and is a popular resort for children in the afternoons. St. Kilda, the site of the racecourse, lies close by. Nichol's Creek Waterfall, some six miles from the Post Office, up the Woodhaugh Valley, is situated in a pretty gully; and when there is a fair quantity of water, is a decidedly pretty fall or series of falls, and a good place for picnics; and the other longer trip by train to Henley, thence by the little steam launch to Taieri beach down the river Taieri, is really a very enjoyable way of spending a day, provided the party is a large one, and the picnic hamper well filled. Some parts of the river suggest, though only suggest, some of the milder and narrow portions of the Sounds, notably those parts adjacent to the Maori leap, where the beautiful "bush " has not been yet "improved away." Before the clearing of the forest began, and the gold mining mania turned the water into a yellow flood, a steam down the river was one of the loveliest excur- sions awaiting the traveller or holiday maker; and even yet, in spite of all attempts to despoil it of its charms, it has still a good deal to recommend it. The Head Office of the Union Company, whose efficient services have done so much to develope New Zealand, are in Dunedin. Many of the boats are of large tonnage, and the accommodation of the best, while the intercolonial and coastal traffic is managed with great ex- actitude. Among the many compliments that can be paid to Dunedin, must be mingled congratulations for being selected as the head-quarters of such an enterprising company. The Colonial Bank of New Zealand has its head-quarters there also, and' the International Ex- hibition to celebrate the Jubilee of the Colony, is being held there during 1889-90. THE SOUTHERN LAKES. Three or four years ago, anyone speaking of making a trip to the Southern Lakes, was understood to mean that he or she would visit Lake Wakatipu, spend some days at Queenstown, go up to Glenorchy and back, and possibly extend operations as far as Pembroke, with a glimpse at Lake Wanaka. Within the last two years a few travellers have included Lakes Manapouri and Te Anau in their tour, and this year a coach com- menced running between Lumsden and these Lakes. A steam launch has been placed on Te Anau, and a track cut from the head of this lake vid Sutherland Falls to Milford Sound; consequently these fine sheets of water must now be visited by any one professing to see the Southern lakes. In addition to these there are seven other lakes which belong to this group. Four of these, viz., Lakes North and South Mavora, Monowai and Hauroto, have been known and visited TO NEW ZEALAND. from time to time by members of the Government Survey Department and the holders of sheep runs, but the more southerly, viz., Lakes Poteriteri, Hakapoua, and the little Lake Innes, have only been very recently discovered, and though there are now cut and blazed tracks to Lakes Hauroto and Poteriteri from the Lillburn Valley and over rough and difficult country even as far as Long Sound, the ground is so marshy, and huts even so few and far between, that none but adventurous spirits would care to penetrate the region. In addition to these there are several smaller sheets of water, such as Lakes Howden, McKellar, Sylvan, Diamond, Luna, Adelaide, Wilson, mostly between Wakatipu and the Coast, as well as the larger Lake McKerrow (called after the Chief Commissioner of Railways, late Surveyor-General) on which Jamestown is situated. In the Mount Cook region, the principal lakes are Ohau, Pukaki and Tekapo, the two latter being included in the tourist route from Christchurch, while Lake Ohau will probably be included very shortly, since the bridging of the Ohau River, now contemplated, will link all these lakes in a through route. To the north-east of Lake Tekapo is another fair-sized lake, from which the Havelock river flows, as well as several smaller ones, viz., Tripp, Acland and Heron. Altogether, therefore, it will be seen, that even if New Zealand were threatened with drought, which is unlikely, there are abundant reservoirs whence water can be obtained, which, with the rivers flowing in all direc- tions, make it one of the best watered countries in the world: in fact Nature has done everything for it. LAKES MONOWAI, HAUROTO, POTERITERI, HAKAPOUA. The first three of these vary from sixteen to twenty-four miles in length, the last being about twelve. The breadth of all varies from about three-quarters to two miles. They are somewhat similar to Lakes Manapouri and Te Anau on a smaller scale, and lie in valleys guarded by lofty mountains, their shores being girt with forest. They are surrounded by country that has not yet been settled, and the nearest road, viz., that from Otautau to Blackmont, Raymond's Gap, Orawia, Otahu, and Grassy Creek, which follows the course of the Waiau River, is fully ten miles from Monowai, MANAPOURI AND TE ANAU. As already mentioned, these lakes are now accessible for tourists, though accommodation thereat is not yet of a high order. Still, with an accommodation house at Takatimos, a hut at Lake Manapouri, and an hotel being built at Te Anau, a limited number of tourists will io6 not fare badly, and the scenery is so grand, that with good weather the trip should be delightful. The train from Invercargill or Dunedin sets passengers down at Lumsden, where there is a very fair hotel. Thence the coach conveys them via Central Hill and Takatimos to Manapouri and Te Anau. At Takatimos, distant some ten miles from jManapouri, there is the inn previously mentioned, kept by Mr. R. Murrell, who will take charge of any tourists who may wish it, and provide them with boat, camp equipment, provisions, etc. He also owns a small house on the shores of Manapouri, where, if they prefer it to camping out, they can sleep at night. View from Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu. One writer (Mr. R. Waddell), who describes nature as only an enthusiast can, greatly regrets that neither Anthony Trollope nor Mr. Green (author of " The High Alps of New Zealand ") ever saw these two lakes. Trollope called Wakatipu "the most beautiful lake in New Zealand," and Mr. Green said, "the only lake which can surpass it is Lucerne," and Mr. Waddell says that had these two gentlemen visited Manapouri, the former "would have changed his mind," and the latter " would have been compelled to admit that if Lucerne excels, it excels not because of its own inherent charms, but because of the historic memories that are associated with it." Mr. Waddell is doubtless right, but is it not the historic memories and graceful habitations, the little towns and villages nestling in TO NEW ZEALAND. 107 the bays, the vineyards or grainfields clothing the lower slopes with or without the snow peaks above, that make one of the chief charms of all the Swiss and Italian Lakes, and in fact of lakes in general? Just as the Sounds seem at their best in their solitary grandeur, so lakes seem to be beautified and enriched by the presence of man, his habita- tions, and the result of his labours, and, therefore so soon as the shores of the New Zealand lakes become dotted over with such pretty little town- ships as Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu, so soon will they be able, even without the historic memories—which are nevertheless very potent in themselves—to challenge and possibly defy comparison. It seems to us, however, that although people look at once for a com- parison, these New Zealand lakes have such different elements in their composition, from a scenic point of view, that to compare any of them with those of other countries is an extremely difficult matter. Manapouri, with its Octopus like arms, overshadowed by grand terraced slopes enveloped in trees of many hues and varied foliage, only one poor half-mile along its eastern edge being naked, possesses a beauty of a very similar nature to that of the Sounds. And Te Anau, though slightly disappointing at first, by reason of the twenty-eight miles of flat low-lying land on its eastern shore, amply compensates in the other ten miles, which make up its extreme length ; and while condescending in no other part to have an open shore, its long tapering fiords, hemmed in with great tree-clad heights crowned with the virgin snow, present such a series of pictures as elevate the soul of the beholder into ecstasy, while equally with Manapouri baffling comparison. Were Queenstown situated at the head of Wakatipu (which we shall deal with later), the comparison Mr. Green makes between this lake and Lucerne would we fancy be improved, still more so if Queens- town remained where it is, and Glenorchy and Kinloch assumed the same proportions; but with the villages so small and far between, as at present on the Magasenda road, some such lake as that near Shima-no- Suwa, in the heart of Japan, would more fitly be compared with it, and especially to its lower arm, to which it bears a striking resem- blance. MANAPOURI. The following particulars regarding this beautiful lake will be of interest to all intending visitors:— The area of the lake is estimated at about fifty square miles, though so peculiar is its shape, and so twisted its various arms, bays, and coves, that accurate measurement is extremely difficult, and length and breadth undistinguishable. The lake is approached near ' Ken Hill," from which a grand view is obtained. On the north-east side lies Shallow Bay and Calm Bay, with Ben (?) Island near the mouth of Calm Bay. Inland, the Beehive and Cathedral Peaks lift their dusky slopes. On the south-east the Waiau River takes its rise at the head of a large bay, near the mouth of which stands Stony Peak io8 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Circle Cove lies within, with Surprise Cove near it. To the south lies Hope Arm—in which is Stockyard Cove—and South Arm, some six miles long, and chiefly celebrated for the "Stanhope Fall," dashing into it near its head. Between these two arms stands Cone Peak (4,875), and away seawards, Flat Mountain (5,711). For wild beauty, the West and North Arms bear off the palm; the latter is four miles long and the former about the same, though including the bend it ii over six. Northwards stand Leaning Peak—a grand pile of 5,000 feet, and Steep Peak (4,481). On either side of White Cove in West Arm are small lakes (Jack and Jill), to each of which a track leads through the bush ; and behind the larger of the two (Jill), which lies nearer to South Arm, frowns Precipice Peak (4,635). There are several good camping grounds to be found round about Manapouri, none better, however, than on Pomona Island, the largest in the lake; but on no account should tourists attempt to pass the night in West Arm near Spey River, for the sandflies there are worse than the Havana mosquitoes. The latter, it is said, go about at night in bands, one of which lifts up the mosquito curtain, while the other passes under to feast; but the former are so plentiful that they go about in armies, and with equal vehemence pursue their prey by day as by night. Some gentlemen from Dunedin on a holiday exploration tour had occasion to camp there while endeavouring to discover a track to Deep Cove, Hall's Arm, and they assert that the memory of it will last them for the remainder of their allotted spans. They managed, however, by following the Miea Bum—a tributary of Spey River—to get ten miles through the thick bush, and were only stopped by the high peaks which guard the great watery solitudes. In good weather, with the right kind of provisions, any moderately hardy explorer would doubtless reach Deep Cove, or some other portion of Smith Sound, without any very great difficulty, though the travelling would of necessity be slow and tedious. TE ANAU. This is the longest lake in the South Island. Its breadth varies from one to six miles, while its length, thirty-eight miles, falls short by fourteen of Wakatipu, although its peculiar formation makes its total area one hundred and thirty-two square miles, or nineteen miles in excess of its more lengthy rival. With its three great arms, called respectively North, Middle, and South Fiords, which vary from ten to eighteen miles in length, the lake looks like a great water alligator, with its curved tail dropping into Manapouri. The scenery round the fiords is impressively grand, analogous in design to much that is to be seen in the sounds. It has been less visited than Manapouri, and much of the country round it has never known the tread of human foot, unless the remnant of the Ngatimamoe tribe—who after the slaughter at Teihoka fled with their leader Te TO NEW ZEALAND. 109 Uira (the Lightning), bearing with them their "mere punamu" into the forest recesses on the West Coast*—have withdrawn within these mighty strongholds of nature, there to decline and die. Should this be so, and traces of their existence are said to have been seen in recent years, it adds an additional charm to these regions, which afford such ample scope to the restless spirits of any nation who wish for a new field for exploration and research. Here in the South-western portion of New Zealand they will find themselves as far from the beaten track as if civilisation and comforts were unknown in the islands, and man had never been there. Many fine peaks and mountain chains surround Te Anau. Its Southern shores are guarded by the Kepler Mountains, and notably Spire Peak (5,587); other Peaks are Mount Maury (5,030), Forward Peak (1,244), Mount Luxmore (4,563), and Jackson Peaks (4,738 and 4,236). The Murchison Mountains separate the South from the Middle Fiord, and from the Lake the chief peaks visible in this vicinity are Cone Peak (5,655) and Mount Lyall (6,037), with Mount Pisgah (5,345) towards the south-west head of Middle Fiord, at the mouth of which lies Jervois Island. The Stuart Mountains separate the Middle from the North Fiord, the chief heights between being Hook Peak (4,615), Turret Peak (4,315), Half-way Peaks (4,930), and Mount McDougall (5,667). The Franklin Mountains, with Mount Kane (5,740), divide the North Fiord from the northern end of the lake, above which Mount Anau (6,294) rears its crest; while along the eastern shore, which lies nearly due North and South, stand the Earl Shelmartie Peaks (5,933), Largus Peak (5,555), David Peaks (6,802), Mount Eglinton (6,069), Countess Peak (5,928), and Winton Peak (5,759), mostly at the northern end. A good road to, and a good hotel at each lake, now that there is a steam launch available for charter up and down Te Anau, would make these lakes a very popular summer resort; and it is to be hoped that if private enterprise will not step in to reap the harvest which must necessarily ensue, that the Government will take the matter in hand, so that these strongholds of beauty and grandeur may no longer be hidden from the eyes of the world. Much has already been done by the making of the track from Milford Sound, via the Sutherland Falls to the head of the lake, and with a good hotel at Milford, another at Te Anau, and a good coach road between the sound and the lake, it will not be long before travellers come to see sights, unique, among the world's many beauties. > * Vide Hochstetter's "New Zealand "; Maoriland, page 28; and Rev. J. W. Stack's paper on " The Traditional History of the South Island Maoris "; and Brett's "Early History of New Zealand." 1 » 114 BRETT'S HANDY GflDE. of Queenstown, a drapery of purest white has settled down on the mountains, with not a speck sullying its absolute purity." ZB«i This is only a description of one of many kinds of sunrises that may be seen on Wakatipu, and beautiful" as this must have been, we have seen sunsets at Glenorchy even more beautiful. Of the beauty of Wakatipu and its mountains, however, there can be no question, although their charms do not strike the eye always at once. In a much quoted passage, Captain Hutton while comparing this lake and its mountains with those of Switzerland, takes the opportunity to pay the former a compliment which will fill tourists, who have only seen the latter, with feelings of envy and longing. He says,* " In Switzer- land the lakes lie outside the principal mountain masses; but the lakes in the Southern Alps of Otago wind themselves closely round their bases, presenting scenery unsurpassed, probably, in the world— showing glorious views of snowy mountains to which Lucerne and Brienz cannot aspire." And yet, while appreciating the beauty of Wakatipu and its surroundings, we cannot favour the implied disparage- ment of the Swiss Lakes. The New Zealand lakes have many charms—wild romantic beauty, natural grandeur ; stern rugged peaks; snowy giants; rocky gorges with cataracts rushing through the tangled verdure and water of all shades and hues, but where can you find a picture to equal with a sunset seen from the slopes above Montreaux, with Vevey and its vine-clad slopes to the right, Chillon's Castle, the Rhine Valley, the Dent du Midi, and the Alps of Savois on the left, and the beautiful Lac Lemanat your feet, spreading away towards Geneva like a band of silver? The "Dent du Midi" echoes back "Where"; and yet there are many views round the southern lakes of New Zealand which are extremely beautiful or ruggedly grand, but with beauty and grandeur of a different kind. Perhaps the New Zealander, some centuries hence, setting astride the ruins of some old battlemented tower on the terraces near the Greenstone River, with the vineyards and fruit groves reaching to the water's edge, and the soft evening air laden with the perfume of orange blossom, his eyes resting on pleasant little villages nestling in the recesses of the mountains, or clustering round the shores of the lake, may be able to form the comparison, that a lack of historic memories, and a want of (he habitations of man and the result of his labour, renders at the present day, unfortunately, out of place. Lake Wakatipu is at all times interesting, and the number of excursions of the most varied kinds that can be enjoyed from either f Queenstown, f Glenorchy, or f Kinloch is almost unlimited, and a month's holiday can be spent all too quickly on its shores. From Kingston to Queenstown, a distance of about twenty-two miles, the Staircase Peaks, and the " Remarkables," or Hector Mountains, are the most noteworthy of the wild rugged monsters that guard the silent depths, and Queenstown itself is a bright, prettily situated little township, which one likes at first sight, and likes still better after a stay. It is a surprise in many ways; after steaming from Kingston under the shadow of the barren heights, to see this bright little * " Geology of Otago," by F. W. Hutton, F.G.S. Dunedin, 1875. I- Vide "Queenstown, Kinloch and Glenorchy," in Alphabetical Directory, Part III. u6 brett's handy guide town, which till the moment of rounding the point had been hidden from view, lying before you, and you are none the less pleased with the accommodation at your disposal. Few tourists expect to see such an hotel as "Eichardt's " up among the mountains, lit by the electric light, with good rooms and parlours, and an obliging hostess and manager, and situated almost at the water's edge, so as to command the best of views, and be handy for the steamer; but no doubt the fact that they find it there has a good deal to do with the length of time they manage to spend in Queenstown, choosing it as their head- quarters for the numerous excursions which can be made thence. An old-fashioned hotel, "The Harp of Erin," is also popular with old River Rees and Forbes Mounts, Lake Wakatipu. fashioned people, and is well-spoken of generally. But although Queenstown is a charming place to stay at, even in winter,—for it seldom rains there even in the coldest months,—the finest scenery is at the head of the lake, and therefore those travellers who can only spare a limited time to sight-seeing had better arrange to give Glenorchy or Kinloch or both a fair share of it. It is not till that im- posing Mount Nicholas,and that charmingpicnicingplace,"Bob'sCove," have been passed, and the three islands of the lake are slipping away behind you, that you are able to completely realize the beauty of the snowy summits that encircle the head of the lake against which Mount Alfred, with its dark slopes, stands out like some mighty pyramid; and the beauty of these great summits increases as you approach them. TO NEW ZEALAND. 117 Leaving on the left the Greenstone River, with the curious terrace for- mations in its vicinity, the steamer threads its way to the right. Referring to a visit to Lake Wakatipu, Miss C. M. Bleazard* of Auckland, to whom we are indebted for our sketches, says :—" This lake is in the form of a letter S, Kingston being situated at the southern end; Queenstown, the chief town, in the centre; and Kinloch at the head of the lake. Kingston is a very small place, being merely the railway terminus and starting point of the lake steamer. We were fortunate in having a lovely day for our trip, as this greatly enhanced the beauty of the grand scenery on either side of the lake. The colour of the mountains in this district is very noticeable. Even at a short distance the blue is intense, and when the deeper shadows contrast with the snow they appear almost black. After a three hours' steam, we reached Queenstown, most romantically situated, having a range of hills with Ben Lomond at the back, and looking out to the lake, where the majestic " Remarkables," 7,600 feet high, reflect their beauty in the bright mirror below them. From here we took a drive to Arrowtown through picturesque scenery, passing Frankton and Lake Hayes on our way, returning by another road to Queenstown, passing over the Shotover Bridge, said to be at the highest elevation of any bridge in New Zealand. We also made the ascent of Ben Lomond, which with the descent occupied a whole day, but we were well repaid for the trouble. After a long climb, we reached what is called "The Saddle," and the scene which opened out to our view was grand in the extreme. We looked on a perfect amphitheatre of hills with snowy ridges. Behind us lay the lake in placid beauty, while the "Remark- ables" and other imposing mountains seemed to be far below us. From the cone on the right hand of the " Saddle," a beautiful echo can be produced, which is repeated from peak to peak till it dies away in a soft note in the extreme distance. Early next morning we left in the steamer for the head of the lake, and it was again our good fortune to have a most beautiful day. Every new headland or peak, as it came into view, was duly admired, the banks in many places being brightened by the scarlet flowers of the iron tree, but when we at last came in full view of the head it was simply exquisite. In the back ground to the right towered Mount Earnslaw, 9,000 feet, one white mass, with its glacier crowned pinnacles dazzlingly bright in the sunshine; then Mount Alfred looking very dark against the snowy background of the Forbes Ranges with their perfect reflections; while the Humbolt and Crichton Ranges completed a magnificent sight never to be forgotten. We landed at Kinloch, consisting of a good hotel and a few bushmen's houses, and found the time pass so pleasantly that we stayed there four days. A tramway leads into the bush, where we frequently went to admire the Dart Glacier. On one of our visits, the snow being loosened by its melting, came down into the valley with a noise like thunder. The bush was very lovely, consisting chiefly of the red birch trees with their brilliant scarlet and russet leaves shining out against the blue distance and white sand. In fact the whole of the Wakatipu district (I cannot speak for the other lakes, not having feen them) seems specially suited to minister to one's appreciation of the beautiful. At every turn there is something to admire, with an ever- charming variety." Mount Earnslaw. 9,000 feet high. this view was taken from a height of about 4,000 feet. BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. Iig The " Mountaineer," belonging to the " Wakatipu S.S. Company," performs the greater part of the traffic on the lake. She is a comfort- able boat, with a cuisine that can make a lake trout tempting and a beef steak as acceptable as a purse of sovereigns to a hard-working curate. From Queenstown to Glenorchy is about thirty-three-and-a- half miles, and with stoppages takes four-and-a-half to five hours; while crossing the lake from Glenorchy to Kinloch takes about thirty minutes more. At the latter place, Bryant's Hotel will be found com- fortable and convenient for many excursions, such as Mount Boupland, Hathaway Peak, and Bryant Glacier, the Roubelum Valley, etc. Glenorchy is, however, the more popular place of the two, especially since the grand forest, which clothed the lower slopes of the Humboldt Range on the Kinloch side, was fired by some malicious individual a few years ago; and it is also more conveniently placed for the ascent of Mount Earnslaw, the giant of the neighbourhood. The hotel, called after this fine mountain, is kept by Mr. and Mrs. Birley, than whom a Diamond Lake. more obliging host and hostess it would be difficult to find; while Harry Birley, their son, is acknowledged by everyone as the best and most courteous guide in the whole region. The hotel is plainly furnished but comfortable, and the oldest established and most commodious. Mr. Daniels has recently built an attractive house not far from Mr. Birley's, and about equidistant from the Jetty; he has the reputation of keeping a first-class table, and looking after his guests well. A splendid specimen of the Terrace formation, noticeable more or less all up the lake, may be seen at Glenorchy, near which about seven of the various levels of the lake can be traced, plainly showing to what these terraces owe their origin. This, "the Bible Terrace," is a splen- did level buttress overlooking the lake,—an ideal place for the hotel of the future, with bowling-green and lawn-tennis courts. The Sheelite (tungstate of soda) Mine, on the side of Mount Judah, and the ascent of Mount Judah, are among the easy excursions on foot. The drive to brett's handy guide. 121 Paradise Duck Flat, and Mr. Mason's little farm near Diamond Lake, with a walk up the Dart Valley, is a pleasant excursion, as is also that up the Rees Valley; while Mount Alfred makes a fine trip on a clear day. Mount Earnslaw can be partially ascended in one day, that is so far as to get a sight of the glacier, but to reach any of the higher levels at least two days must be allowed. The summit has never been reached, owing to the perpendicular precipices that .would have to be scaled; perhaps some of the Alpine Club will manage it some day. Of longer excursions there are many, including trips of three or four days' duration, such as the ascent of Mount Anstead, the trip to Lake Harris, etc. The Lennox Falls should not be missed, though to visit them is a very long single day's trip, as ihey are the finest falls in the district. It is not too much to say that a month can be easily spent in this neighbourhood, seeing Nature's wonders; it is an ideal place for a holiday, and for the mountaineer there are almost an unlimited number of possible ascents. It should also be mentioned, that many rare Alpine plants grow in the neighbourhood, some twenty or more being found in the Humboldt range alone. NORTH AND SOUTH MAVORA. Although but little known, these lakes are among the most charming in New Zealand. They lie near the head waters of the Mararoa river, and are surrounded by fine birch forest and high mountains. When the direct road from Lake Manapouri vid the Mararoa river, these Mavora lakes, the Von River and Mount Nicholas to Lake Wakatipu, is constructed, and the bridge over the Ohau erected, and the road made from Milford Sound to Lake Te Anau, the whole of the lakes of any importance in the South Island will become links in a continuous chain, and the trip will probably be as popular as it will unquestionably be interesting and beautiful. LAKE WANAKA. Although greater ease of access has directed the chief flow of tourist travel towards Lake Wakatipu, and may continue to do so for some time, Lake Wanaka does not deserve to take second place on any other pretext, nor is it difficult to reach; and any tourist who omits it from his list of sights to see, omits one of the most charming of all the trips in the Cold Lake District. Two coach routes take the traveller thither, and both are interesting. The shorter (forty miles)—that from Queenstown vid Arrowtown and Cardrona, over the Crown Range, is of the most romantic description, and the view from the summit on a fine day baffles description; the longer (eighty-two 122 miles)—vid Arrowtown, the Kawarau Gorge, Roaring Meg, Desolation Gorge, and Cromwell, where the first day's coaching ends, thence vid Mount Pisa Cattle Station, Queensbury, the Luggate and Dreary Flat, is in parts quite romantic enough, and passes through some very interesting country, though on the whole of a rather wild barren nature. The traveller, if returning to Queenstown, can of course go one way and return the other, and by this means will see a small portion of the gold fields' district. If, however, it is his intention to proceed to Dunedin vid Lawrence, which is the trip most to be recom- mended, since it embraces almost the whole of the goldfields' district, he will have to elect which portion of the route he will omit, and this will probably be the part between Queenstown and Cromwell, as although exceedingly interesting, the one over the Crown Range is more so. Pembroke, the little township at the foot of the lake, has a comfortable hotel, kept by Mrs. Russell. It is old-fashioned but cosy, and the table is good; there is also a cottage in connection with it, which has a honeymoon reputation, and is airy and well appointed. Captain Hedditch owns the paddle steamer "Theodore," which runs on the lake; it is a good-sized boat, steaming about seven knots an hour, and can be hired by parties wishing to camp out or picnic on board, etc., at moderate rates. Lake Wanaka is considerably smaller than its better known rival, but its beauty is of a more mellow and captivating character. The stern grandeur of the mountains surrounding Lake Wakatipu give place to others of a more rounded, fertile nature, and the little bays which open up such as the lovely Glendhu Bay, tone down whatever rugged- ness the guardian summit possesses, making by the aid of a few cabbage palms most delightful pictures for the artist. Lake Wanaka is decidedly the "Lady's Lake." It is about thirty miles long by an average of three broad; its depth is about 1,085 feet, and its elevation above the sea 928 feet, or 142 feet below that of Lake Wakatipu. The geological formations throughout the district prove conclusively that Wanaka is only the remains of a very extensive lake formed by glacial action. It recedes perceptibly annually, and owes its retention to the Moraine accumulation, as is also the case with Wakatipu and Lake Hawea. Its surface area is estimated at between eighty-eight and ninety square miles. The steam up the lake and back usually takes two days. With fine weather a week would be all too little for seeing the beauties of this sheet of water, for Makarora Valley at the head of the lake, with its branch Otatenui or Wilkin Valley, is deserving of a few days, being full of beauties, in addition to the summits, several of which any one ac- customed to mountain climbing can safely attempt. So far, unfor- fortunately, unless the tourist happens to know one or other of the station owners at the head of the lake, he must arrange to camp out; rough it at the accommodation house, for which it is necessary to take provisions, or charter the steamer and arrange to sleep on board, there being room to accommodate about six persons, although with a suitable tent-awning rigged up, the vessel would accommodate more. Leaving Pembroke, the vessel steams past Plantation (or Eeley's) Island and makes for Crescent Island, above which stands the imposing Mount Alta, and the rest of the Buchanan Range. Across to the right, Candies TO NEW ZEALAND. 123 Peninsula juts out, and behind it an estuary runs up for about eight miles, with Stevenson's and another Island therein. In the vicinity of the peninsula, the lake overflows to form the Clutha River, one of the most important rivers in New Zealand. The general view up the lake shows, to the westward, the Hanis Range, with black and fox peaks, the Buchanan Range, Glendu Bay, Wallace Peninsula, and Crescent Island; to the eastward, Mount Grandview on the extreme right and Candies Peninsula. Passing between Wallace Peninsula and Crescent Island, and leaving Hurricane Bay, Matukituki Bay— from the head of which flows the Matukituki River; on the left, a more extensive view opens up, embracing Weka (or Pigeon) Island, the Minaret Peaks, the Turret Peaks, Mounts Albert and Gilbert, and a glimpse of the mountains up the Makarora Valley, to the westward and southward; and to the east and south-east, Mount Burke with Mount Gold behind it, the sentinels guarding the neck between Lakes Wanaka and Hawea, and the bold peaks of the McKerrow range. Weka Island is a charming spot for picnics, and its curious little lake up among the rocks near its summit is exceedingly interest- ing; quite romantic enough in fact to do without the little legends as to its size and depth, which are fired at the unsuspecting tourist. Under the shelter of the Minaret Peaks, and lying back from Snug Bay, a lovely spot, is the large sheep station known by the same name as the peaks; almost opposite, on the other side of the lake, is_ Drift- wood Bay, where the steamer stops to land passengers wishing to see the view from Hawea neck, a sight well worth the trouble of the climb. Leaving Driftwood Bay, with the Sentinel Peaks above, Mount Albert rears his snowy crest across the lake, and soon after, looking up the gorge, whence flows the Albert burn Creek, the spotless " Glacier Dome" Peak may be seen on a clear day. Then comes Mount Gilbert, and across on the right, the Cairn may be seen which marks the boundary between the Provinces of Canterbury and Otago, near a spot which would make a grand site for a " Boundary Hotel." Then while Craiglum Creek joins the lake on the left, Moffat's accommodation house shews on the right, and the steam up the lake is very soon over. Afterwards the Makarora river flows along a flat, covered with shingle in many parts, a fiat on which the grass is most luxuriant, and the flax and cabbage plants equally so. The view of Castor and Pollux up the Otetenui Valley is very beautiful, and round Makarora, about seven miles from the head of the lake, the scenery is delightful. Far up the Makarora Valley northwards is the snowy dome of Mount Alba, and to the east Mount St. Bernard, Symon's Crags, and other heights of the McKerrow Range lift their shaggy brows above the stately trees clustering at their feet. A climb of five thousand feet up towards Mount Bernard brings the tourist into full view of the spire of the Cathedral Mountain,—Mount Aspir- ing,—the Matterhorn of New Zealand, and although dwarfed by the surrounding smaller summits when seen from the level it is a very beautiful mountain, and the highest after Aorangi. A few years hence, when a good hotel has been built at the head of the lake, and another at Glendhu Bay, Lake Wanaka will be con- sidered a tourist's paradise; even now, however, it is quite acces- (M R S V M M S ) NEW ZEALAND STATION HOMES. BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. 125 sible enough, and sufficiently connected with comfort in the way of accommodation, etc., to be entitled to a far larger flow of tourist travel. After wanderings in many lands we hardly know of anything more beautiful than a sunset over Lake Wanaka; and a steam down the lake, between sunset and midnight, with a full moon, is one of the most exquisite excursions in New Zealand, or any country. The drive to Glenhu Bay, thence vid the "Titan's Circus " to Matukituki, past Mr. Campbell's hospitable homestead, discloses scenery that no traveller can refrain from feeling the better for having seen. This drive alone is worth a visit to Wanaka—the views of the bay, the cornfields, the vistas up the lake, the distant views of Mount Aspiring, the piled up rocks of the Titan's Circus (reminding one of the valley of " Ten Thousand Rocks," near Amoy), the twin falls near Mr. Campbell's, and the glimpses of snowy peaks, make such a combination, that even the tourist, fresh from the beauties of the Swiss and Italian Lakes, will discover (as we have already hinted) that he has by no means exhausted Nature's beauties in those countries, and that New Zealand has been endowed by the Omnipotent's Hand with a prodigality that is as inspiring as it is remarkable. LAKE HAWEA. Lake Hawea is a smaller and more compact lake than either Wakatipu or Wanaka, and for this latter reason appears at first sight larger than either, far more of its surface being included in the view usually obtained of it than can be in the others with their more grace- ful, winding ways. Its length has been variously estimated at fifteen and twenty miles, but is probably between these figures; its width is three miles on an average; its depth varies from about 900 feet to 1,285 feet, and its height above the sea is 1,062 feet. When the railway—projected on paper—to Gladstone—likewise a paper township—on the Hawea flats has become a positive fact, Lake Hawea will suddenly assume a position of importance. There is so little tourist traffic there now, that a hotel formerly built on the shores of the lake has been removed into the township some three miles away. There is a cutter on the lake which tourists can charter, and a pleasant day's picnic can be made to the lake and back from Pembroke, vid Albertown (four miles), across the * Clutha River, leaving the main road on the right, about two miles beyond the river, at a point where the forking of the roads is distinctly visible; then on for about three miles across the Hawea Bridge to the shores of the lake. As previously mentioned, a very pleasing view of Lake Hawea can be obtained from the neck which separates it from Lake Wanaka, but it is worthy of more attention than this. Its finest scenery is at its head near the Hunter River, which flows into the lake, and also on its eastern side. The view from the vicinity in which the Panama Hotel used to stand, through the opening * At this point the Hawea River and Clutha Rivers have flowed into one; further south the river, after being joined by the Kawarau, is known as the Molyneux. 126 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE of the Hunter Valley, is considered among the most beautiful in the Lake District, embracing numerous snowy summits, with their glaciers in various degrees of distance. At Long Valley Creek, on the western shore, there was a gold rush some years ago. The break at this creek, and again at Hawea Neck, wherein Lake Dainty lies, forms the chief contrast between the western and eastern shores. The latter is guarded by a giant wall of barren aspect, like " the Remarkables," which seem to rise almost precipitously out of the lake. Deer abound on the hills around this lake, and up the Makarora and other valleys, and although hitherto protected by the Government, a large number of the old bucks might be killed with advantage, as they gore the young stags terribly. The country is so wild and rough, however, that only experienced mountaineers and sportsmen should attempt the sport, though with a good-sized party and pack horses a week's deer stalking might be undoubtedly much enjoyed. There is a bridle track round Lake Hawea as round Lake Wanaka, but the tourist has to chance being put up at stations on the route or camping out, if he attempts what—with a few accommodation houses—would be a most romantic ride. As the coach leaves the Hawea Flats, and ascends the terrace about Hawea Township at the foot of Mount Grandview, a glimpse of the lake can be obtained, encircled with the grand ranges of mountains which stretch right away to the West Coast. From the summit of Grandview the scene is what its name indicates; the climb is well worth the labour to anyone fond of moderately difficult mountaineer- ing. The almost barren Hawea Flats, drained by the Hawea and Clutha Rivers, with the aid of careful irrigation, might be made into the most fertile of plains. This will no doubt be done some day; in the meantime Chinamen and others can carry the water for gold wash- ing purposes in narrow conduits, but for agricultural, who would consider it worth while? There are a good many men in New Zealand and elsewhere, who have yet to learn that reaping from the land the harvest they sowed, is more sensible, more successful on the whole, and better than Micawber like waiting for something to turn up in the shape of gold which they had no hand in planting there. When agriculture becomes the chief pursuit of the many, and gold digging or gold hunting is left to the few, when a competency from the land is considered better worth working for than a possible fortune in a gold mine, New Zealand will have the prosperity she looks in vain for at present. And at any rate, when Australia suffers from drought, New Zealand might virtually command the trade for supplying that huge Continent, which is never sure of its harvest, until it is actually garnered ; and we must look to farming, and not gold mining, to do this. LAKE OHAU. Lake Ohau, or Ben Ohau, forms one of a cluster of three—Pukaki and Tekapo being the others, and more properly at present belongs to the Mount Cook region than the Southern Lakes. In a few years, however, it is to be hoped that the road from Wanaka, vi.i the TO NEW ZEALAND. 127 Lindis Pas, to Ohau, will be so far improved by bridging the river Ohau, that Mount Cook can be reached in comfort and safety by this route, and a complete tour of the Southern Lakes made not only possible, for it is certainly that already, but inviting and customary. At present the coach ride of 138 miles, with limited accommodation on the road, and the passage of the river by the wire rope, hardly recom- mend the route to ordinary tourists. The lake itself is about twelve miles long by two and a half wide. Being partly surrounded by forest, a virtue which neither Tekapo or Pukaki can boast of, and with clearer water than either of them, owing mainly to the fact that it is only fed by small glaciers, it is the most charming of this northern group. Some of the scenery in the vicinity is very fine, notably up the River Dobson. The homestead of the sheep station, known as Morvern Hills, lies at the head of the Lake on a pretty spot, but unfortunately there is no accommodation house erected yet. The distance from this lake to the accommodation house at Lake Pukaki is about twenty miles. LAKE PUKAKI. Although the grand Alpine scenery beyond the head of this lake invests it with some importance, since from a distance the great giants seem to bathe their feet in its waters, Lake Pukaki is in itself a com- mon-place sheet of water., A slightly redeeming feature it does possess in the shape of an island, of some sixty acres, partly wooded, but even this does not materially beautify it. None of this group possess in themselves anything like the beauty of the Otago lakes, though the scenery in their vicinity—especially in the case of Pukaki— is of the finest. Lake Pukaki is about ten miles long by four wide, and is fed by the Tasman River, which forms a huge swamp at its head, in which wild swans, paradise ducks, bitterns, pukaki, and other wild fowl con- gregate. It is situated about thirty miles, by a very fair road, from Lake Tekapo, on the present direct road from Fairlee Creek to the Hermitage. The view from the accommodation house built on the shores close to its outlet, is, on a clear day, a splendid one. The Ben Ohau Range on the west, and Mary Range on the east, converge towards the Southern Alps, and in the centre Aorangi lifts his crest in unquestionable majesty. This lake, like both Tekapo and Ohau, is drained by a river bearing its name, crossed by means of a punt, and its waters join those of other lakes, and form the Waitaki, a fine swift- flowing river, about five times the size of Old Father Thames. LAKE TEKAPO. This lake is the most northerly of the principal South Island Lakes and completes the group. It lies within a foot or two of 2,470 feet above the level of the sea, being about half as long again as Pukaki, and one mile less in breadth. It is fed by the Godley Cass TO NEW ZEALAND. I2g Some 216 miles from Port Chalmers—eighty-four from the Bluff— the vessel bids adieu to the heaving waters of the South Pacific, speed- ing their foaming steeds towards the precipitous bluffs, and glides between the tree-covered heads of Preservation Inlet, and the first of the Sounds is reached. The rest in their order on the chart are:— Chalky or Dark Cloud Inlet, Dusky Sound, Breaksea Sound, Dagg's Sound, Doubtful Inlet, Thompson Sound, Nancy Sound, Charles Sound, Caswell Sound, George Sound, Blight Sound, and Milford Sound. The first glimpse of Preservation Inlet is an imposing one, and closer inspection only magni- fies, never mars that first favourable impression. Sombre in shadow, many-hued in sunlight, and solemnly beautiful always, stand the lofty summits, with their rich banks of foliage, broken only by an obtrusive boulder or a foaming cascade, reaching to the water's edge. Several islands stud the en- trance, and away to the left lies the snug anchor- age of Cuttle Cove; while the track to the head of the inlet, known as Long Sound, cannot be detected till the vessel swings and glides into the narrow channel, where the swell of the broad Pacific is power- less to mar its placitude. The steamer's siren- whistle wakes the echoes, and peak after peak responds, but at other times and seasons the shrill notes of the seagull, the coo of the pigeon, or the cry of the morepork, or other native birds, are the only sounds these waterways hear. Fleecy clouds gather over the brows of Treble Mount, on the left of Bald Peaks, Solitary Peak, Garnet Peak, and Rugged Mount on the right; and of Houseroof Hill and Cone Peak at the head of Long Sound, and chased by the sun rise to disclose the summit of the Cone decked in a mantle of snow. Words are powerless in the lips of an ordinary mortal to portray the beauties of the cascades, here traceable from the summit, there only visible, bursting in a grand I Entrance to Milford Sound, Mount Kimberley. 130 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE volume at the base, the bright refreshing verdure of the tree-ferns nestling in a sheltered corner, the islands and the slopes,—they are pictures limned by the Great Artist, and it is enough for us that we are permitted to gaze upon them and know that they are not merely visions of beauty granted to us for a few moments, but that they are ours to gaze at and enjoy for all time. The chief charm of these sounds lies in the absolute supre- macy of Nature within them. No patches of burnt bush (ie. forest) mark the march of progress, no chimneys nor driving wheels, the successful or unsuccessful burrowing for gold; a deserted marble quarry in Caswell Sound, and solitary habitations in Dusky and Mil- ford, are the only evidences of the invasion by men of these charming fiords, "where every prospect pleases," and "beauty unadorned's adorned the most." Comparisons have been made between these sounds and the Norway fiords, and usually much to the detraction of the latter; but it seems unreasonable to us to draw any such comparisions. The Norway fiords are justly renowned for their grand craggy headlands, belted with forests of dark pines, with here and there small fishing villages nestling in the bays and coves. But in the New Zealand Sounds, craggy heights—save in Milford—are the exceptions. The slopes are clothed in a garment of green, neither all dark nor all light, but very varied, with here and there little breaks and patches of tree-fern; and the whole idea conveyed is one of glorious softness, the harmony of Nature, rather than its boldness and ruggedness as suggested by the fiords of Norway. The internal aspect of the wooded slopes is more widely different still; instead of the barren carpet under the Norwegian pines, there is the grand luxuriance characteristic of all New Zealand bush. Not only do the kahikatea and rimu (white and red pines of New Zealand), the totara, the rewarewa—so-called— honeysuckle, the black birches (ie., beeches, correctly speaking), lofty tree-ferns, and the red clusters of the climbing rata, beautify the upper surface, but below them "supple jack," "bush lawyers," smaller tree-ferns, mosses, lichens, flowering shrubs, titrees, make a lively but impenetrable tangle of the most lavish description. When the sunlight pierces this wealth of verdure, at the edge of some noisy stream or foaming cascade, Nature has nothing finer of a similar kind to show the traveller anywhere, and the wonderful tameness of the birds, notably the native robin, the weka (or Maori hen), the South Island wattled crow, the tui (or parson bird), and a bird like the English red start, is a charming feature of these peaceful solitudes. Paradise ducks, pigeons, brown parrots, paroquets, cormorants and oyster catchers, are fairly numerous there also, and kakapos (green parrots) and kiwis may be met with occasionally. It is a thousand pities, however, that any shooting should be permitted there, except for scientific purposes, for not even the veriest tyro can find any sport in it. Although discovered by Cook in his voyage of 1773, he only gave a name to one sound out of the "thirteen (viz. Dusky Sound), and that a * For details regarding each and all of these Sounds, refer to Alphabetical Directory, Part III., under heading " West Coast Sounds." TO NEW ZEALAND. 131 1 very misleading one. Having, unlike his illustrious namesake of later years, no eye to the tourist business, he made no endeavours to trumpet their marvellous beauty to the world, and consequently it was not till 1792, or sixteen years after, when the whole region was surveyed by H.M.S. "Acheron," that these lovely harbours were visited by any aggregate number of human beings, unless perchance some vessel engaged in the whaling or sealing trade through stress of weather had found temporary shelter in one or other of them. Since the year when excursion trips were first organised by the Union Steamship Company, there has been a steadily increas- ing desire on the part of tourists to see the beauties of the Sounds, and in a few years it will be considered one of the trips no tourist can afford to miss. The excursions are carried out in the most admirable manner, and every opportunify afforded in the ten days for seeing the most noteworthy of the Sounds and their surroundings. There is a certain similarity of design apparent in all, but as it is extremely rare for one to see any two under the same atmospheric conditions, the result is far from monotonous, and while Milford Sound may be said to be the most majestic, and George and Thompson Sounds the most deli- cately beautiful,—full of soft lights and inviting coves,—Preservation Inlet cannot be surpassed for boat- ing excursions, Dusky Sound for vastness and grandeur, Wet Jacket Arm for peacefulness and multitude of cascades after rain, and Hall's Arm for a grand telescopic vista of heights, especially if the sky be over- cast. It is the effects of light and shade, cloud,rain,and sunshine, that make these Sounds so especially beautiful, and however pleasant constant, sunshine may be for excur- sions as a rule, it would certainly mar many of the finest effects that these fiords usually present. Wet Jacket Arm in tears, George Sound in sunshine, and Milford Sound in cloud, interspersed with breaks through which the light floods from time to time, are respectively seen at their best. They might rightly be called the Artist's Paradise, were it not that the naturalist, botanist, sculler, fern collector, and everybody else, would claim it as his paradise too. Fish abound, notably the blue cod, groper, trumpeter, maori, trevalli, and moki, and, of course, the shark; they may all be caught in the easiest manner. Stirling Falls, Milford Sound. 132 brett's handy guide As our object in this volume is to indicate what to see and how to see it rather than attempt to describe—a futile task—all the beauties and wonders that strike the eye so constantly, when travelling in New Zealand, and nowhere more than in these Sounds, we shall conclude our present mention by an allusion to some of the chief points connected with George and Milford Sounds, leaving the reader to go to the objects themselves, and there make his own description. Were it only possible to see one Sound, we should choose George, were it possible to see two only then George and Milford; just as probably the yachtsman going to Norway would choose Hardanger and Sogue, because they present contrasts, and in a way embrace the general scenery of the whole. George's Sound is " a thing of beauty" and " a joy for ever," its loveliness increases the more you see of it. U'is full of snug coves, of rounded summits, its charms are matronly and yet as piquant and dainty as a maiden's blush. What could be more delicate and pleasing than Lake Mary? What more grandly beautiful than the Gertrude Falls ?• What more calm and solemn than Lincoln Bay—a very counterpart of the great President? And what more worthy guardians of such a sound than the Regatta Peaks, Mount Edgar, and the many other noble heights, mostly bonneted with timber, that rise up on every side? And what a contrast is Milford Sound. Fierce craggy headlands guard its threshold, and its inner realms. What sport the glaciers must have had amongst those rocky fastnesses in the ages gone by, to plough out their way to the sea through such fields; and what wonders they have left behind, that great precipitous monster towering a mile above the entrance to Milford Sound, hides over another mile of sheer rock beneath the darkling water. Look at " The Lion," the great spur of Mount Kimberley too, the ever beautiful Mitre Peak, the Lawrenny Peaks, the Giant Tutoko, and Sheerdoun Hill. Near a turn in the channel, not far from the entrance to the Sound, the Stirling Falls bound down the face of the cliffs 400 feet in an unbroken fall; but you cannot judge of their proportions, everything around is so immense. Harrison Cove, with Mount Pembroke raising his snowy crest above the heights at its head, is another fine sight, and there are many up the valleys of the Arthur and Cleddan rivers, Lake Ada up the latter being one. There is nothing finer, however, than the Bowen Falls after a few days' rain. To see the water dash into the upper basin, and rise fifty feet in the air before condescending to turn its attention to the lower regions, and completing 540 .feet in its descent, is a picture that fully supports the grandeur of the mountains, and though of necessity dwarfed by its surroundings, they make a charming setting, and com- plete a most majestic scene. The discovery of the " Sutherland Falls," 1,904 feet, adds yet another wonder to the many possessed by these Sounds, New Zealand's unique scenic Paradise. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE PRINCIPAL COACH ROUTES IN NEW ZEALAND. PART II. (b). NORTH ISLAND. PAGE I. HOREKE TO KAWAKAWA AND WHANGAREI 184 II. DEVONPORT TO WAIWERA AND WARKWORTH ..184 III. OXFORD TO ROTORUA 185 IV. TAURANGA TO OHINEMUTU 185 V. TAURANGA TO OPOTIKI 186 VI. MORRINSVILLE TO TE AROHA 186 VII. THAMES TO TAURANGA AND TE AROHA 186 VIII. ROTORUA TO TAUPO 187 IX. LICHFIELD TO TAUPO 188 X. TAUPO TO NAPIER 188 XI. WOODVILLE TO PALMERSTON vii MANAWATU GORGE .. 189 XII. WOODVILLE TO EKETAHUNA vid FORTY-MILE BUSH .. 140 SOUTH ISLAND. I. BLENHEIM TO NELSON 141 II. NELSON TO GREYMOUTH & WESTPORT vid THE BULLER GORGE 141 III. SPRINGFIELD TO KUMARA AND HOKITIKA vid THE OTIRA GORGE 142 IV. CULVERDEN TO HANMER SPRINGS 144 V. LITTLE RIVER TO AKAROA 144 VI. FAIRLIE CREEK TO AORANGI (MT. COOK) 144 VII. PALMERSTON TO NASEBY AND CLYDE 146 VIII. LAWRENCE TO PEMBROKE via CROMWELL 146 IX. PEMBROKE TO QUEENSTOWN 147 X. CROMWELL TO QUEENSTOWN 148 XI. LUMSDEN TO LAKES MANAPOURI AND TE ANAU .. ..148 134 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE COACH ROUTES. NORTH ISLAND. FROM HOREKE TO KAWAKAWA AND WHANGEREI.—This is an interesting drive, and forms the connecting link between Russell (Bay of Islands) on the north-east coast of the North Island, and Hokianga on the north-west. Mr. Bindon's coach starts from his hotel at Horeke, and follows the road through the Utikura Valley, in which there are many pretty glimpses, climbing up the long steep hillside to- wards the Great North Road. As the grade becomes easier, and travel- ling consequently pleasanter, the coach traverses deeply historic ground. The homesteads of the Canadian settlers are passed at Okaihau, and then next the spot where the terribly bloody encounter took place; then in turn Lake Omapere, and the old Mission Station of Waimate are left behind, and Ohaewai, famous for the battle fought there at the time of Heke's war. After a brief halt the coach speeds onward, past the fertile holdings at Pakaraka, and dips down into Kawakawa, where Swifts' Hotel is ready for the traveller after his forty-mile journey. For those who desire to continue farther across country, Bindon Brothers perform a regular coach service to Whangarei, a distance of thirty-six miles. The drive is not devoid of interest, and at no distant date, when tourist traffic in that locality is great enough to warrant expenditure or improvement, the road will doubtless be improved. At present, however, it is more used by settlers than by tourists. The road passes Kamo, known for its collieries and soda springs, on the way to Whangarei, and once arrived at the latter, there are numerous attractions in the way of caves, waterfalls, and fine forest scenery. The Great Wairua Fall is especially celebrated, though possibly its title, the " Niagara of New Zealand," renders it open to hostile criticism; it is unquestionably a fine fall. AUCKLAND (DEVONPORT) TO WAIWERA.—Arrived at Devon- port by the ferry steamer, the new route lies vid Lake Takapuna, Okura Creek, the Wade, and Orewa. Seven years ago the road was a much longer one, passing through Lucas, Creek, Dairy Flat, and Puhoi. People wishing to see Puhoi, the German settlement, now go thither from Waiwera, a very pleasant four-mile drive, or they can take a boat up the Puhoi river. Although the scenery at times between Lake Takapuna and the Wade is not very interesting, and the land mostly given up to the gumdiggers at present, yet there are several very fine seascapes, and the sea view is, on a clear day, very extensive. From the time that horses are changed, however, the scenery improves, and after a splendid canter along the smooth Orewa beach—near which Mr. Grut has a good accommodation house, the road ascends and enters the bush, the glimpses of sea and forest being especially fine. The coach then winds down the hill into Waiwera, which is reached TO NEW ZEALAND. 135 after a pleasant four-and-a-half hours' drive, and of this charming tourist and health resort, facing the ocean and guarded by beautifully wooded slopes, it is difficult to say too much. We think that travellers who patronise Mr. Butler's coach in one direction, and the steamer direct from or to Auckland in the other, will be best pleased. It varies the trip, and presents it under two different phases, both very charming in their way. OXFORD TO ROTORUA.—To tourists in general this is their first coach ride in New Zealand. A few short years ago the route lay from Cambridge to Rotorua, or from Tauranga thither through the fine Oropi bush, but now the iron steed, in his progressive but unsenti- mental march, brings Oxford nearer to the centre of the Hot Lake District, and from thence the coaches now take the road. A few years more and the coaches will, like "Jo" move on, and the iron horse, much to the injury of his internal organs (owing to the sulphur), will bear the tourist right up to Ohinemutu itself. Shortly after leaving Oxford, the Orakei, Waihou and Waimakariri Rivers are crossed, and the road begins to ascend. After a while, if the weather is clear, the grand snow queen, "Ruapehu," comes into view on the right, and the road winds up the sides of fern slopes, fine vistas of hills in an amphitheatre in the direction of Ruapehu, disclosing themselves the while. Down below on the left there lies a deep grand gorge, full of pines, birches, and rewarewa trees, and the long leaves of the last-named glint in the early sunshine, and make the way more beautiful. The road now enters the Oxford bush,—the forest it should be called,—and Carter's stables are passed. Robertson's stables, some seventeen miles from Rotorua, next come into view, and the fine tree-ferns rise above the undergrowth in the clearings, waving their crested plumes upwards towards the giant pines, hung here and there with the serpentine rata—the octupus of the New Zealand bush, which with phoenix-like tendencies, flourishes on the ashes of the stalwart forest tree, whose life it crushes out. Its flower is scarlet, and at certain seasons it sets the forest ablaze with splendour. Grand Todea superba ferns—the glory of enthusiastic collectors, flourish in the bush, and other kinds, including lomaria, too numerous to mention. Emerging from the cool moist atmosphere of the woods, startling the splendid pigeons—when the berries are ripe—and the pheasants, the road passes in the midst of several strange hummocks or volcanic cones, and descending theTe Aroha Ranges, Lake Rotorua, with Mokoia Island in the centre, comes into view, and shortly after- wards the steam rising in numerous little jets and clouds proclaims that Ohinemutu is close by, and the end of the journey reached. TAURANGA TO OHINEMUTU.—There are two routes between these places, viz., via the Oropi Bush, and via Te Puke. The former is the shorter and most interesting from a scenic standpoint, the latter used to be smoother, and passes through finer country from an agri- cultural point of view. Tourists usually prefer the former for its scenery, and also because its length is forty miles as against fifty-two. Times have changed, too, since the completion of the railway to Ox- ford, so that there is no longer the bustle in Tauranga over the arrival of tourists that there used to be, nor the number of coach pro- 1 136 brett's handy guide prietors running vehicles on the road, ready to take any route tourists might choose to pay for. The mail coach twice a week takes nearly all the passengers that go that way, and chooses the shorter route, which is much improved of late; while the other, since the eruption, is not in that state of repair—between Tikiteri and Rotorua for instance— that would lead to its being readily selected. Its direction, however after leaving Tauranga, over the Hairini Bridge, is parallel to the coast line as far as Te Puke, at which place it cuts the Rotorua— Maketu road. Proceeding by this road, which follows the Kaituna River to Lake Rotoiti, you reach Tikitere, and make the best of a rough road to the old Mission Station of Te Ngae, proceeding thence to Rotorua. By the other, and now the only general route, the Gate Pah is passed some three miles from Tauranga, thence turning to the left it winds between fern slopes, whence the traveller looks down to the Waimapu river, or glides beside it. On the right, the spot may be seen where the battle of Te Ranga was fought, and we took vengeance on the Ngaterangi natives for the slaughter of the Gate Pah. For thirteen miles the road is excellent, after this it gradually rises, and there are fine views of valleys, plains, and hills, many of the last-named having been "pahs" of importance before rifles were known to the Maoris. Oropi reached, the coach enters the Bush (eighteen miles), and the drive through it, if at times monotonous, is on the whole very pleasant. The beautiful tree-ferns, the tall rimus, and the scarlet rata, the fine beeches (misnamed birches), the undergrowth thick and luxuriant, and the smaller ferns and plants fringing the road, combine to make pictures of forest scenery that to any lover of nature must be pleasant indeed; and especially is this so at the Mangarewa Gorge, up which there is a choice vista that will linger in the memory. The descent to the ravine made, and the little bridge crossed, a long hill has to be climbed, thence slightly descending the village of Ohinemutu is visible some ten miles away, with the steam rising in puffs from the hot springs dotted all over the region, and another hour's smart driving brings the traveller to the outskirts of this popular resort, and a little later to Rotorua (or Ohinemutu) itself. TAURANGA TO OPOTIKI.—Though hardly to be called a tourist route, a buggy now runs weekly during the mail service between Tauranga, Matata, Tepuke, and Opotiki. Part of the route lies along the coast and part inland. It passes through good country for pheasant shooting, and will probably develop further if the route from Opotiki to Gisborne was utilized. MORR1NSVILLE TO TE AROHA.—There is a coach running between these points, a distance of some twelve miles, which starts after the arrival of the train at Morrinsville, but it is not much patro- nised by travellers, nor is the route particularly interesting, so that in most cases travellers will be content with the train. For those who prefer driving, however, they will find the conveyance good and the road very fair. THAMES TO TAURANGA AND TE AROHA.—Since the issue of the combination coach, rail, and steamer tickets, the journey by steamer from Auckland to Thames, thence by coach to Te Aroha, and back to Auckland by rail, has become popular. Formerly the route TO NEW ZEALAND. 137 from Thames to Tauranga was the better known, but the coach dis- continued running owing to the state of the roads. They have a common route as far as Paeroa, but fork there, one road going south- wards to Te Aroha, the other eastwards to Katikati,—fifty-two miles from the Thames,—and continuing thence southwards to Tauranga. The first stage from the Thames is Paeroa (twenty-two miles), and the chief interest of the drive is the historic ground through which the route passes. The road is level, and the surrounding country fertile. Beyond Kaueranga the coach passes a steep terrace on the left. In the early days this was a strongly fortified pah of the Ngatimaru, the most powerful tribe of the district. In 1821, the Ngapuhi, headed by Hongi, came that way, but finding it so strongly fortified, Hongi resorted to treachery under the guise of friendship. After spending a day in friendly intercourse, he attacked the pah at night, and slew hundreds of the Ngatimaru, Rauroha, the head chief, being among the slain. A great feast of human flesh was held to celebrate the victory. Six miles from Totara the soda springs of Puriri are situated, the water of which is now bottled and sold commercially. Paeroa has but little to attract, and with the exception of some fine bush scenery at Owharoa, there is nothing of much interest till the settlements are reached. Crossing the wretched Waihi flat, a pleasant spin through the Hikurangi Gorge brings the traveller to Mr. Vesey Stewart's settlement, a little beyond which is Katikati, a pleasant little village in the centre of fertile fields. The drive thence to Tauranga is along an excellent road, and if the country is not particularly interesting, the excellence of the road makes up for it. From Paeroa to Te Aroha is only a short spin, in fact, the shortness of the route, when compared to that to Tauranga, may partly explain why it is more popular. ROTORUA TO TAUPO.—Like many another place of great interest, Taupo cannot boast of much beauty beyond its immediate surroundings. It is a place that should never be omitted from the tourist's programme, for in addition to the wonders of Wairakei, there is Tokaanu to be seen, the smoking mountain Ngauruhoe and the snow mountain Ruapehu to be ascended, as well as the island on the lake and the wonders of West Bay for which Captain Fernie's launch can be chartered—yet for all its attractions travellers must not look for a fine coach ride either between Rotorua and Taupo, Lichfield and Taupo, orTaupo to Rangitaiki. From Rangitaiki, vid Tarawera to Napier, is par- ticularly fine, especially between Tarawera and Pohui. The road from Rotorua to the village of the "sounding footsteps," as the long Maori name is said to be translated, generally known as Taupo, is on the whole decidedly good, and the fifty-six miles can be done in good time. There are two interesting points in the drive, the first is the grand battlemented crest of Horphoro with the Hinemoa rock standing out from it—though the latter is not distinguishable till you leave the grand old height behind you—and Ateamuri (twenty-five miles), the pretty little spot where the coach changes horses and the traveller takes lunch. The curious hill, Pohutaroa, which overlooks Ateamuri, is said to have been a regular tower of refuge to the Maoris of the neighbourhood. When attacked by east coast natives, they climbed this hill and hurled down stones on their enemies as they attempted to ascend; since the path was only wide enough for climbing Indian file, they 138 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE made speedy work of their besiegers, who usually decamped discouraged. There is good pheasant shooting about this locality and all the way to Rotorua. From Ateamuri to Taupo the road does not disclose views of much interest until nearing Taupo, when on a clear day the com- bination of lake, river and mountains, makes a superb picture. There is the fine calm sheet of water,—though it looks angry at times,—the Waikato River stealing away towards the beautiful Huka Falls and Wairakei, the smoking Mountain Ngaurahoe, the flat Tongariro, and the peerless Ruapehu,—the ice queen of New Zealand,—altogether a picture of great and gratifying beauty. LICHFIELD TO TAUPO.—There is a weekly coach running on this route, which is convenient for travellers overland who have seen the Hot Lakes, and wish to spend a day in Taupo before the coach leaves for Napier. The road, like that from Rotorua to Taupo, is not particularly interesting. Leaving Lichfield, it crosses the Ngutuwera Stream, and passes between the Whakatutu (1,315 feet) and Motukakapo (1,379 feet) Hills, and later, between the Uraura (1,737 feet) and Whakamaru (2,608 feet) Ranges, joining the route from Rotorua, a short distance above Ateamure (or Atiamuri), whence it is the same as described under " Rotorua to Taupo." TAUPO TO NAPIER.—If the route from Taupo to Rangitaiki is not entrancing, it passes through country that has helped to make history, and at the Opipi Bush, some ten miles from Taupo, a force of young fellows, enrolled as volunteers, were massacred during the Maori War. Near this same spot, some 500 soldiers were encamped at one time, and they had their enjoyments as well as their hard fighting. They actually had a £100 cup and £30 hurdle race over country which even now looks of the most breakneck character, but possibly this has retrograded since the soldiers left. The Pangaroa Plains may make excellent hunting grounds for wild horses, but the little luncheon house at Rangitaiki (twenty-two miles) is usually eagerly looked for long before it can be seen, and is left behind reluctantly. The pumice and lava country reaches to Runanga (ten miles), after which the travelling becomes much pleasanter, some very fine forest cuttings being traversed, and the road winding up and down heights, dis- closing varied views. The scene near the "Nunnery," so-called from the fact that the Maoris kept several English women captives there for a short space, is a charming one, and a short time after leaving this behind, the coach spins gracefully into Tarawera (forty-four miles), a charmingly-situated little place with a comfortable inn to rest at. An early start is made next morning, and crossing the Waipunga Creek the coach climbs the long slopes of Turanga-Kuma, gradually rising above the clouds hanging over the valley—up steep slopes and round sharp corners till the summit is reached, as old Sol wakes up the whole ocean of hill tops with his golden glory. It is a splendid sight; the summit is said to be 3,500 feet above the sea, but be this so or not, it is worth coming a long way to see this view. Thence the road passes the Maori Village of Te Harata, and after ascending and decending, winding round hillsides, and climbing up picturesque slopes, brings the traveller to Mohaka (fifteen miles), where there is a comfortable inn close to the river, from which the TO NEW ZEALAND. 139 place takes its name. Crossing the river a long steep slope has to be ascended, and the climb up the Titiokura Ranges begins. In parts of this road skilful driving is necessary, and the grading might be improved with advantage; but the grandeur of the road is un- questionable. The view from the summit, which embraces to Napier, fifteen miles away, is really a very fine one, and on the gradual, but by no means continuous decent to Pohui (twenty- four miles), where horses are changed,there are many exceedingly pretty bits. From Pohui the horses have to tackle the Kaiwaka Range, with the up and down grade continuing all the time, rising till they gain the apex, and glide down the steep track to the Kaiwaka Creek. The scencery now becomes strange but interesting; the creek is crossed twenty-four times, and the river Esk (into which the creek flows), twenty-three times in addition, though most travellers give up the counting after twenty has been recorded, and try to think of some- thing else. The country looks very fertile as Petane (forty-four miles) comes into view, and in this case appearance is not deceptive. In spring-time this part of the country looks charmingly fresh, and the crops, which are harvested, are usually excellent. From Petane the coach follows the natural road, on the narrow isthmus running out towards Napier, and then winding round Shakespeare's Cliff pulls up at one of the good hotels, and the traveller is in Napier. FROM WOODVILLE TO PALMERSTON, through the Manawatu Gorge.—Although another two years will see the rail- way completed through the Manawatu Gorge, and Wellington joined to Napier by links of iron, so that the once celebrated coach ride through the gorge will become a thing of the past, it is nevertheless to- day one of the most interesting of the trips by coach, having the great merit of being just long enough—a feature which but few of the coach rides in New Zealand possess. The road itself is narrow and looks down on the swift flowing river below: only one side is now clothed with the magnificent verdure peculiar to the New Zealand forests, and this consequently detracts somewhat from the former beauty of this part of the drive (three miles). But we cannot have progress in the shape of quick communication and yet le,ave Nature alone, especially when it comes to laying a railway along the steep slope of a rocky gorge, and beauty has had to suffer, sacrificed to speed and commercial requirements. The ride altogether is about seventeen miles, three from Woodville to the Gorge, three miles through the Gorge itself, and eleven miles thence to Palmerston north. The first part is interesting, as shewing the progress of a genuine bush settlement. And although the wags say that it rains 370 days in the year in Woodville, the butter, milk, and produce that comes from there proclaims the wonderful richness of the soil, and the wise choice of those pioneers who have felled the forest to build their homes. The Gorge itself is in many parts exceedingly pre- possessing—it has varied charms and many delightful vistas. The part of the road between the Gorge and Palmerston has nothing par- ticularly striking about it except that it passes over a very fine old bridge, and skirts the village of Akhurst, built on property belonging to the Duke of Manchester. Palmerston North is a neat clean little township, and now one of the chief stations on the railway from BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Wellington, Wanganui, and New Plymouth; but when the branch to Woodville is constructed, and it becomes the junction for Napier and Wanganui, its importance will naturally increase, for as it is surrounded by such rich country that sixteen tons of potatoes have been grown to the acre in one field there, it should become in a few years one of the most important inland towns in the North Island. WOODVILLE TO EKETAHUNA.—With fine weather this drive through the forty-mile bush must be numbered among the very pleasantest in the North island; pleasant being the correct term, for the scenery is of a graceful order, having nothing of the sublime but much of the beautiful, the ferns and forest glades at various points being really splendid. Bush clearing for settlement is steadily pro- gressing, however, as also the railway works, so that a few years more will see the end of coach travel in this part of New Zealand. The coach route was first reduced from seventy miles to forty-one, and now to twenty-nine, so that it means but a few years before its days are num- bered. Crossing the Maungatua river, traversing the splendid Ngawaparu bridge over the Manawatu river, and later the Maungatenuku river, the coach passes a fine avenue of pines, and makes for Pahiatua (thirteen to fourteen miles) a bush township, with hotel of same name, and a fine wide street. Horses are changed at the outskirts, and soon after the Maori village of Tutaekaru is passed through, after which there are long stretches of straight road, overshadowed by splendid rimus, kahikateas, tawas, and other forest lords, many entwined by the all-encircling ratas, rewarewa, and other trees; also the graceful tree-ferns and banks of other varieties, add their charm to the route. At Eketahuna (twenty-nine miles), the stoppage is made in time for lunch, and the train taken, thence over the celebrated Rimutaka rail- way, where the grade is in parts one in fifteen, to the Empire City, and this is a railway ride that should not be missed. SOUTH ISLAND. Although we frequently talk very loudly about fiat justicia, we find justice is frequently a very scarce commodity; possibly that is why so much is made of it, like strawberries in winter at five shillings each, prized because they are expensive and rare. Well, justice has not had much to do with the descriptions of the coach routes in New Zealand; in fact to glance at most books that have been written on the subject, one would imagine that the route through the Otira Gorge was the only road worth travelling over in New Zealand. It has been extolled without stint. Has not Archibald Forbes said, that compared with this road "those in the Alps, the Carpathians, the Balkans, or the Himalayas are tame and prosaic "? And it is doubtless true. It is a most beautiful road, but had this famous war correspondent continued his coaching tour, by way of the Buller and Reefton, to Nelson, and thence, via Havelock to Picton, we fancy he TO NEW ZEALAND. 141 would have had still more to say, but his praise would have been more "drawn out," and in common justice he would have said that it was difficult to decide which gorge was the finer, the Otira or the Buller. We have heard some people say that the former was more beautiful, others have affirmed that the latter was much the grandest, but all agree that this through trip is a splendid one, and we do not doubt that the day is not far distant when people coming to see New Zealand (and not merely to get a glimpse at it and be off) will make a special point of taking this grand overland ride. As a through journey we recommend the start being made at Picton, working down to Christchurch rather than the other way about, and will con- sequently mention the route as far as Greymouth in that sequence, though since it is popular at present to go to Hokitika from Christ- church, we will describe the route thither, with Springfield as the starting point, and it will therefore be merely a matter of transposition for those who desire to start from Kumara or Hokitika instead. BLENHEIM TO NELSON.—This fine ride is done in one day, twice a week, a distance of seventy odd miles. The traveller reaches the lovely little seaport of Picton by Union Company's steamer from Wellington, and proceeds by train to Blenheim. The coach route lies through the charming Rai Valley to Havelock, situated at the head of Pelorus Sound, one of the least known and most charming of the New Zealand sounds, and one well worthy of a visit—in fact, these northern sounds well repay a visit, they are so full of graceful beauty though lacking the altitude of the.jnountains, guarding their southern rivals, together with that supreme grandeur which makes the southern soli- tudes, as an eminent naval officer remarked, "incomparably superior and grander to anything of a like nature in the world." From Have- lock the road lies through some remarkably fine forest and hill scenery into Nelson. In fact, for a little holiday, Wellington people could hardly have a finer trip than by taking one of the steamers of the Union Company—they go everywhere, and are always on hand when wanted. At Picton, take the train up to Blenheim, thence by coach to Nelson, returning from Nelson vid the French Pass and Picton back to the capital. NELSON TO GREYMOUTH (vid Longford, Reefton and Kumara).—Though the direct route from Nelson to Greymouth, (thence to Kumara or Hokitika to catch the coach for Springfield) is a fine one, there are several bits of scenery on the side-roads which almost outrival any other, notably between Inangahua Junction and Westport. The railway now runs as far as Belgrove, but passengers usually take the coach from Nelson itself, and passing Belgrove begin the climb up Spooner's Range, from the summit of which a fine view of Blind Bay, Waimea Plains and D'Urville's Island, can be obtained. There is nothing of particular interest thenceforward till the " Hope Saddle" is reached; but once at the highest point of this, there sud- denly greets the eyes a landscape of great beauty. The best view is from the "Trig " Station, 2,100 feet above the sea. Looking E.S.E. Gordon's Nob (5,400 feet) stands prominently forward, to the right are the Red Hills, dividing the Moluetta and Waiau valleys, and further in the same direction are Mount Travers (6,900 feet), and 142 brett's handy guide nearer Mount St. Arnand (5,500 feet), and still further Mount Franklyn (7,900 feet), and many snow-crowned summits ; while southwards Mount Una, Mount Murchison, and Mount Owen soar up above lesser but the same name, which is especially pretty near its junction with the Buller, whence the finest of the scenery as seen from the coach begins. The spot where the Rotoroa (not to be confounded with Rotorua) joins the Buller, is one of the wildest gems of river scenery that one could hope for. Lake Rotorua whence this river flows, is a charming sheet of water, which will become a favourite resort of the future probably. It is difficult when wanting to be brief to select what to mention where there is so much compelling admiration. The Buller is always fine. Granity Creek is very interesting; near the Owen is another fine vista, and again at the junction of the Mangles River with the Buller there is another romantic bit. Longford is the halting place for the first night. On again next day, with a smile at the" Giant in slumber," as he appears carved out from the range of hills, lying at the head of the Manuia river, and then for fifteen miles the road leads through this splendid gorge to the Lyell, thence to Inangahua Junction, where the road forks, one branch following the Buller Gorge, past the famous Hawk's Craig on to Westport, the other continuing to Reefton, where a halt is made for the second night. For those people who are in- terested in mining, there is time the following day to take a look at the mines or other objects of interest round Reefton. Starting again the next morning the route lies through more fine scenery, which space prevents us from describing, and the coach arrives in the afternoon at Greymouth, which, like Westport, is an important coal port on the West Coast. Thence to Kumaru the train can be taken or the coach; and either the 'bus or the coach to Hokitika, from either of which places the coach can be taken through the Otira Gorge to Springfield. THROUGH THE OTIRA GORGE.—This far-famed coach drive is usually commenced from Springfield, as the scenery is said to be more impressive, seen when going westward. Perhaps it may be so, it is unquestionably fine, however, which ever way it is seen, and although having to be brief, we will now make mention of the chief charms of the route from SPRINGFIELD TO KUMARA AND HOKITIKA.—For some ten miles the road is slighly uphill and rather interesting, till the bottom of Ponter's Pass is reached. This pass, two miles long, is made up, and round the side of a bleak rugged hill, till it reaches at last a saddle of the range 3,000 feet high some miles to the left of Mount Torlesse, round three sides of which the traveller goes the first day. From the top of the pass, a nice little descent is made to Lake Lyndon, and a mile further, the first changing place is reached at fifteen miles. The road is now hemmed in by hills, varying from 3,000 to 6,000 feet, and passes through country more grand than pretty, generally in sight of wonderful rocks, piled one on the other, like walls of a ruined castle (and similarly to those in the valley of the 10,000 rocks near Amoy, China), after which the Castle Hill Station is named. A grand sight here is the magnificent birch forest, covering a large portion of the hills behind the homestead. Close to the station a stoppage of TO NEW ZEALAND. 143 a few minutes is made at Cloudesley's Accommodation House, so noted for its scones, which are referred to in most books on New Zealand. The second and last changing place for the day is Craigie Burn (twenty-eight miles). The road now passes one or two very pretty lakes, and after a long easy descent through the Grassmere Estate the Cass is reached. Only a minute rest, and then after a short run the Waimakariri River is reached, and shortly afterwards the Bealey, when the first day's journey ends, eighty miles from Christchurch. A day or two can be well spent here in visiting the Rolleston Glacier, noted for its exceeding beauty, or in collecting ferns, etc. The situation is peculiarly adapted for a stopping place, the hotel being built on a wooded knoll jutting out into the river, which runs closely round it. Next morning an early breakfast is partaken of, and a start made at five o'clock, and here it might be well to mention that all along this route the most complete arrangements are made for the comfort of travellers, hot meals being always ready at these places where the coach stays long enough to allow of their being eaten. Directly after leaving the Bealey, the Waimakariri is crossed by a long winding ford, and the road now runs up the Bealey River or valley, sometimes in the river bed and sometimes through the bush, which covers to the snow line, the mountains now rising almost sheer above for thousands of feet. After a mile or two the road turns sharply to the left, up a branch of the same river, towards Arthur's Pass, the bottom of which is reached shortly after passing the Devil's Punch Bowl, a very fine waterfall. The road up Arthur's Pass is very steep and grand, cut in places out of the bed of the stream up which it winds. Close to the top, magnificent daisies and the beautiful mountain lily grow in profusion, and as the ascent is made on foot an opportunity is, of course, given to gather them. The walk is most welcome, as at this hour, and in such close proximity to the snow it is anything but hot. The Rolleston Glacier can now be seen away to the left. For some little distance the road is comparatively level, till, shortly after passing the dividing post of the Canterbury and Westland Provinces, the top of the Otira Gorge is reached. The descent is very fine. In the first place it is down an immense moraine, which appears to have filled up what was at one time a valley, and then down the original hillside above the Otira River. A decidedly sensational zig-zag, which allows of an occasional view of the continuation of the road almost immedi- ately beneath, forms the first part of the road, while the last part is still steep but straighter, running over two sombre-looking bridges, sometimes past, and sometimes under a waterfall, known as the Bridal Veil, and round some perpendicular cliffs, giving a series of ever- changing views to which the peculiarly coloured snow water adds a decided charm. The Otira Hotel, fifteen miles from Bealey, is close to the bottom of the gorge, and a second breakfast can be appreciated there. From here to Kumara,—thirty-seven miles,—the road passes through scenery best described as a series of river beds and magnificent avenues, while words fail to describe the beauty of the bush. Jackson's Accommodation House is reached at fifteen miles from Otira. Mr. Jack- son is a genial Scotchman, and his house is a favourite stopping place for people wishing to break the journey; very good shooting is obtainable, and sight-seers have the lovely Lake Brunner, while as a place for 144 brett's handy guide collecting ferns of all varieties the vicinity is unrivalled. Another change of horses at Taipo (Maori for devil), and then Kumara is reached about three o'clock. The sight from Dilman's Town, on the outskirts of Kumara, is a peculiar one. The road is on a high elevation, and away to the right is the Teremakau River, a fine body of water, first blue and then yellow, with sluicings from the numerous sluice boxes and sludge channels that lie between the road and the river. The whole flat, some acres in extent, is simply a network of these channels and boxes, and has a striking appearance to a newcomer. Greymouth passengers leave the coach here, and can continue their journey either by the tramway, fourteen miles, or by hiring vehicles and driving round the road twenty miles; either way the jouney is a pretty one. Tram fare, 7s. The road from Kumara to Hokitika lies through deserted gold workings and towns, all having a most desolate appearance, which is, however, lessened in the case of the former, by the wonderful growth of ferns, which seem to flourish everywhere on this coast, owing no doubt to the exceptionally heavy rain fall. From Bealey to Hokitika the distance is seventy miles, making in all from Christchurch 150. CULVERDEN TO HANMER SPRINGS.—Although only a short coach ride, and one but little used by tourists, the ride from Culverden to Hanmer Springs is a pleasant one, and will doubtless be well patronised by residents before long. LITTLE RIVER TO AKAROA. —. Akaroa makes a splendid summer resort for the Christchurch people, and those who are wise will take their passage in one of the Union S.S. Company's boats to Akaroa, returning by the coach to Little River, or vice versa. The coach ride takes them through scenery of great beauty, in fact it is decidedly one of the best short coach drives in the colony. Akaroa itself, too, is a most picturesquely situated little town, and one to which every tourist with leisure should pay a visit. FAIRLIE CREEK TO AORANGI (Mount Cook).—Arrived at Fairlie Creek from Timaru overnight, passengers are ready for an early start from the " Gladstone Grand" Hotel. The drive is not par- ticularly interesting at first. Crossing the Opahi River, the Ashwick flat lies on the right, and the Orari Gorge and station likewise. A six miles' spin brings the coach to Silverstream, and a few miles further to the head waters of the Opahi and entrance of Burke's Pass. This river is rather a treacherous one, and breakwaters have been made of stones, fastened in gunny bags, to prevent it from washing away its banks. Seeing the trees in the " road board reserves " and the bare slopes above, makes one think how a few trees on the hills would add to the beauty of the pass,—and many other passes,—then a few cottages come into view, and a mile more (about fourteen miles from Fairlie Creek) brings the coach to the Burke's Pass Hotel, where the horses take a refresher, and the travellers finding the example infectious, generally follow suit. Leaving Burke's Pass Hotel, the summit of the Pass, about 2,500 feet above the sea level, it is soon reached. It was doubt- less formerly one of the overflows of the lake, once filling the basin of which the Great Mackenzie Plain, now opening to the view, and TO NEW ZEALAND. 145 which still retains traces on its surface of glacial formation, must have bee,n the bed. After a drive of about thirteen miles, the traveller is rewarded with a fine view of Lake Tekapo, with the surrounding hills reflected on its'surface. Crossing a handsome bridge, spanning the Tekapo River, at the outflow of the lake, the Tekapo Hotel is reached, and horses changed. From Tekapo, the journey now continues to Lake Pukaki, a distance of thirty miles. After proceeding some six miles, a branch road is passed on the right, leading to Braemar Station, and thence across the Tasman River to Mount Cook, which was the route taken by Mr. Green; but being a glacial river, the Tasman is generally too swollen to cross during the summer months. The way now lies past Balmoral Station, descending gradually to Irishman Creek, where one of the first views of Mount Cook itself can be obtained; thence, after crossing the Maryburn, a short rise is made. Leaving Simons' Pass, where an extensive view over the northern part of Otago can be had, the road winds round through old moraine accumulation to Dover's Pass, where Lake Pukaki comes into view, with Mount Cook apparently rising from its farther end; a truly grand view of lake and alpine scenery. Skirting the shores of the lake on one of the old terraces the road gradually descends towards the decent little accommodation house on the banks of the Pukaki River, commanding the ferry, which is worked by a wire rope, and is capable of transporting heavy waggons and teams from shore to shore. An early start should be made next morning, the distance from the ferry to the Mount Cook Hermitage being about thirty-eight miles over a roughish road. A picnic luncheon has to be made en route, entailing a short stoppage, but with an early start the Hermitage can be com- fortably reached in time for dinner. Soon after crossing the ferry, the road bears to the right, and the lake is lost sight of. Ben Ohau and Rhoborough Down's Stations come into view, and are passed on the left. Gaining the summit of the downs, the lake again comes in sight, and after zig-zagging down nearly to its margin, the road skirts it for about five miles till the boundary of the Glentanner Run is reached. Shortly afterwards, the old station, situated at the head of the lake, thirteen miles from the ferry, is passed, and the whole valley of the Tasman lies in view. Thence the road is over a series of low downs to avoid the swamps of the Tasman, and mountain after mountain comes successively into sight. Passing the present Glentanner Homestead, twelve miles from the head of the lake, the first view is obtained of the great Tasman Glacier, and after winding over more downs, and Hear- ing Birch Hill, seven miles farther on, its extent can be more adequately realised, apparently filling up the whole end of the valley; while its surface presents a greyish hue from the mass of moraine debris borne down by it, and deposited at its terminal face, from which the several streams issue that form the Tasman River. Above all this the Ball and Hochstetter Glaciers lie white and glistening, and the other immense fields of ice surrounding Mounts Cook, Tasman, and Haidinger. Descending from the downs, the road traverses some flats to Birch Hill Station, six miles from the Hermitage, which, however, does not come into view until some few miles farther on, when the valley of the Hooker debouches to the left of the spur of Mount Cook. The Hermitage can then be seen, nestling under the bush-covered K 148 and country. Descending the range again Arrowtown is reached, and the route thence to Queenstown vid Lake Hayes is the same as that from Cromwell to Queenstown, which may be called the direct route. CROMWELL TO QUEENSTOWN. — There are some fine glimpses along the gorges on this route, but it is on the whole barren and wild. Mount Desolation and Desolation Gorge being rightly named. "Roaming Meg" and the natural bridge are interesting, and "Gentle Annie " will be pointed out; the traveller should also learn the yarn of the pig that ate one hundred and thirty ounces of gold, if the driver is in the humour. Mount Difficulty being left behind, the coach crosses the Kawarau River, and horses are changed at Johnson's Hotel. Thence spinning over the Victoria Bridge, and winding round the lower spin of the Ben Nevis range, the Kawarau Bridge, beneath which the river boils, is crossed, and the junction of the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers is reached. The route thence lies through wildly barren scenery to Arrowtown. Here horses are again changed, and the pleasantest part of the drive commences. Lake Hayes, soon reached, is a favourite with tourists visiting Queenstown, and it is certainly prettily situated. The Shotover has now to be crossed,—that river once so diligently worked for gold, and from which immense quantities were taken,—and the Frankton Falls murmur softly on our left as our coachman touches up his steeds, and they, speeding along the white Frankton road, in full view of the " Remarkables," Mounts Cecil and Walter, and other peaks, bring us into Queenstown, the Lucerne of New Zealand, yet in no way would we compare them, except as their position suggests. They have each their charms, and history envelopes the old world town in its folds. Queenstown has its history in the future, but it nestles amid scenery that no one can find much fault with, though thousands have enjoyed. This little town has also a fine winter climate, so that it is bound to be not only a summer but also a winter resort. FROM LUMSDEN TO LAKES MANAPOURI AND TEANAU.— Though not a particularly interesting drive in itself this trip is much to be recommended to all tourists who have time to see two of the most beautiful of New Zealand lakes. The details of the route will be found in Part III. See " Lumsden." The distance from Lumsden to Taki- timos, where there is a comfortable accommodation house, is forty miles, Centre Hill (eighteen miles) being passed on the way. From Takitimos to Lake Manapouri is about nine miles, and to Te Anau about ten miles. Brodrick, who owns the steam launch on the latter, is putting up an accommodation house, and Murrell has a boat on Manapouri. The trip is daily becoming a greater favourite. PART III. A Directory of all the Cities, Towns, Townships, Villages and Scenic Resorts in the Colony, with Hotels, Clubs, Objects of Interest, Churches, Schools, and Excursions starting therefrom. SPECIAL NOTICE. Abbreviations used in this Part. The following abbreviations are used throughout this part:—P-o, Post Office. T-o, Telegraph Office. Tel.-o, Telephone Office. M-o, Money Order Office. S-b, Savings' Bank. For population of the various places, see Appendix. For fuller details of Excursions, etc., see Part II. t All Hotels marked thus are on Thomas Cook and Son's List. ADDISON'S FLAT (Buller County, Nelson Province).—A small alluvial mining township, between Westport and Charleston, eight miles north of the former. It is proposed to make this township the terminus of the Westport and Ngakawau Railway. There are exten- sive coal works in the neighbourhood. Inns: Shamrock, Royal Churches: Episcopal, Catholic. Public School. AHAURA (Grey County, Nelson Province), P-o; M-o; T-o; S-b.—A post town, twenty-two miles north-east from Greymouth. Hotels : Gilmer Brothers. Church : Roman Catholic. Public School. AKAROA (Akaroa County, Canterbury Province), P-o; M-o; T-o; Tel-o; S-b.—A township situated in Banks' Peninsula, on the eastern shore of the beautiful Bay of Pakariki, about six miles from the Heads. The Bay forms one of the best of New Zealand's many fine anchorages. Founded August 10th, 1840 (vide Brief Historical Sketch) Akaroa is a favourite watering place for the inhabitants of Christ- church, from which city it is about thirty-eight miles distant in a south-eastern direction, and with which it is connected by coach and steam, and will soon be by railway. There is also communication by brett's handy guide coach with the Little River Railway Station. Originally Akaroa was almost exclusively settled by the French, who cultivated the vine and planted fine orchards, but the district is now best known for its dairy farming. Many of its original settlers left for the Marquesas upon those islands being taken possession of by France. Hotels: Criterion, Wagstaff's, Bruce's. Newspaper: Aharoa Mail. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Congregational, Roman Catholic. Several Schools, Hospital, Institute. Oddfellows' Hall, Farmers' Club, Boating and Football, and other Social Clubs, and a Musical Society. ALEXANDRA (WaipaCounty, Auckland Province), P-o;M-o; T-o; S-b.—A post town, 105 miles south of Auckland City, at the farthest navigable point of the Waipa River and at the base of Mount Pirongia. Connected with the Te Awamutu Station on the Waikato line. A small steamer runs thence to Ngaruawahia and back for trading purposes. Inns: two. Churches: two. Public School. ALEXANDRIA or MANUHERIKIA (Vincent County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A municipal town, some 110 miles north-west of Dunedin, at the juncture of the Manuherikia and Clutha Rivers, and centre of the once celebrated quartz mines of Butcher's Gully and the Umbrella Ranges. There are good coal pits in the vicinity, and the Clutha River is dredged for gold by specially constructed dredges. Communication with Dunedin by coach and rail, vid Lawrence. A suspension bridge over the Clutha connects the two sides of the river. Hotels: Criterion, Caledonian, Bendigo. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Town Hall, and Library. AMBERLEY (Ashley County, Canterbury Province), P-o; M-o ; T-o ; S-b.—A post town, thirty-four miles north of Christchurch, on the Christchurch and Amberley line, situated on the North Kowai River. The railway extends beyond Amberley to Culverden, the present terminus for the Hanmer Plains. Hotels: Railway, Crown. Churches : Episcopal, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Library. Oddfellows' Hall. Hunt, Football, Racing, Steeple Chase, and Farmers' Clubs. Bank: New Zealand. AORANGI.—"The Cloud Piercer," commonly called Mount Cook. The highest mountain in New Zealand, being 12,349 feet above the sea level. Aorangi forms part of the chain of the Southern Alps. Its summit has never yet been reached, but Mr. Green claims to have attained to within about forty feet of it. Aorangi is a most beautiful mountain, and the excursions in its vicinity are numerous (vide Mount Cook and its glaciers, and " Hermitage "). The Hooker and Tasman Valley Reserve includes Aorangi, and the Watershed of Sefton. This magnificent scenery is thus public property. AOTEA (Raglan County, Auckland Province), P-o.—A small bar-harbour twenty miles south of Auckland City on the west coast. The surrounding district has the same name, and nearly the whole of it is included in what is called the King Country. The land is rich and produces a large number of cattle and pigs, and much wheat and maize. Population: white, 110, several of whom are homestead settlers, and Maori, 300. TO NEW ZEALAND. ARATAPU (Hobson County, Auckland Province), P-o; M-o; T-o; S-b.—A small town 112 miles north of Auckland City, on the banks of the Wairoa River. Sprang into being in consequence of the Union Sash and Door Company starting their works there. Limestone and Potter's Clay in the neighbourhood. Communication by steamer with Helensville bi-weekly. A fine wharf has been built, and there is an Episcopal Church, Public Hall, and Library. ARROWTOWN (Lake County, Otago Province), P-o; To; M o; S-b.—A municipality 172 miles north-west of Dunedin, and nine miles from Queenstown, on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. Situated close to the Arrow and Shotover Rivers, and the centre of famous gold diggings known by the names of those rivers, from which a very large quantity of gold was formerly obtained. Communication with Dunedin by coach (H. Craig & Co.'s) to the Lawrence Rail- way Station. Communication with Invercargill by same Company's coach to Queenstown, thence by steamer to Kingston, and from Kingston by rail. Communication with Pembroke (Lake Wanaka) by coach vid Cromwell, or over the Crown Range vid Cardrona. Fine crops are grown in the district, and there are three flour mills in the vicinity of Arrowtown. Hotel: Royal Oak. Newspaper: The Lake County News. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic. Public School and District Hospital. ASHBURTON (Ashburton County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o ; S-b.—A post town fifty-three miles from Christchurch on the north bank of the Ashburton River, and on the railway between Christchurch and Timaru; the centre of a very fertile and extensive agricultural district on the Canterbury Plains. Hotels: Central, Ash- burton, Somerset, Butler's, Commercial, Royal. Newspaper: Waimate Times. Banks: Union, Australasian, New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Primitive Methodist. Public School; several Private Schools. Town Hall, Odd- fellows', Templars' and Masonic Halls, County Hospital, Agricultural Implement and other Factories, Racing and other Clubs, and a Caledonian Society. AUCKLAND (Eden County,Auckland Province).—Thechiefcity in the Auckland Province, and the largest city in New Zealand, situated on the shores of the Waitemata, a lovely sheet of water branching from the Hauraki Gulf. Auckland lies about forty miles from Cape Colville, the Eastern Cape at the entrance of the gulf. It is a large and well- built city, full of mills and factories of various kinds, with an extensive commerce, and in constant communication with the rest of New Zealand, with the Australian Colonies, and with the different Archi- pelagos and islands in the Eastern and Western Pacific. The San Francisco Mail Steamers call at Auckland on their way to and from Sydney. The gulf abounds in islands of various sizes, and is unsur- passed in attractiveness and facilities for boating, fishing, or yachting excursions. A railway connects Auckland with Onehunga, the port on the Manukau Harbour, only seven miles'distant, thus giving Auckland easy access to the west coast, and saving a sea journey of 250 miles round the North Cape. The suburbs of Auckland are very beautiful, and carriage roads intersect them in every direction. One of these roads BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE leads to St. John's College, with the associations with Bishops Selwyn and Patterson; and an extremely pretty little old wooden Church, with its memorial brasses and windows, render very interesting. The landscape around Auckland is dotted with volcanic cones, from the top of which very extensive views may be obtained. One of these cones, Mount Eden (644 feet high), about two miles from the post office, is provided with a carriage road to the summit, and the crater is not only large but perfect in shape and in splendid preservation; the view from the summit is considered unique. The Domain or Public Park is very extensive, abuts on to the city, and is full of romantic walks and charming views. The Albert Park is a well-kept public garden in the centre of the city, and the Western Park is in the centre of the populous ward of Ponsonby. The Railway Station is close to the Queen Street Wharf, at the foot of the principal street. From it the trains run south to the Waikato and north to Helensville, whence communication is kept up by steamers on the Wairoa and other rivers. The shores of the Waitemata and of the Hauraki Gulf abound in safe harbours, and few of the islands dotting its surface are without good anchorage. The extinct volcanic mountain of Rangitoto (920 feet high) is a striking object in the scenery, and rises from the sea at the entrance of the harbour proper about five miles from the city. Few places can offer greater attraction in boating, driving or riding, than Auckland, on her low and varied hills running along the winding shores of the broad Waitemata. Opposite to the city is the suburb of Devonport, much prized as a summer resort; and four miles from Devonport lies the deep quiet fresh water lake of Takapuna, separated from the ocean and its magnificent beach by only a narrow circle of land. Lake Takapuna has long been a favourite resort, and its charming building sites are being fast covered with country and suburban dwellings. The hotel is beautifully situated on the shores of the lake, and one of the largest and best in the Auckland district. Beyond Takapuna, on the shores of the Waitemata, are the rising suburb of Northcote, and the adjacent settle- ment of Birkenhead. At the latter of these the Colonial Sugar Com- pany have a very extensive refinery, and the hills are thickly dotted with the cottages of their workpeople. Auckland has two excellent Clubs,—the Northern and the Auck- land,—and possesses the largest Graving Dock in Australasia, "the Calliope," in which vessels of the largest tonnage can be safely accommodated. Hotels are too numerous to be all mentioned. Among them are the Prince Arthur, Star, Grand, Albert, Imperial. Auckland is the headquarters of the Bank of New Zealand, the New Zealand Insurance Company, the New Zealand Accident Insurance Company, New Zealand Foreign Meat and Storage Company, Limited, and the South British Insurance Company. Newspapers: the Auckland Star (daily), New Zealand Herald (daily), Weekly News, New Zealand Farmer, Observer, Family Friend, Leader, Church Gazette. Banks: New Zealand, Union, Colonial, New South Wales, Australasia, National, Auckland Savings' Bank, and Post Office Savings' Bank. Churches: Several Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Union, and Baptist, Hebrew Synagogue and two Pro-Cathedrals, St. Paul's for the English Episcopal, and St. Patrick's for the Roman Catholic. The Salvation 154 brett's handy guide Army has a large Barracks in Auckland. The Public Buildings are numerous and good, and consist of Public and Private Schools, Supreme Court, Post Office, Town Hall, Art Gallery, Public Library, Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, and many others. Theatres: Opera House, City Hall. There is a very good and interesting Museum. Sir George Grey has given his splendid collection of curious, rare books, etc., to the City of Auckland, and these may be seen daily at the Art Gallery and Free Library. There are also many fine buildings, including Banks, Insurance Companies, and other Offices, Factories, and Flour Mills. Thomas Cook & Son's chief office for New Zealand is in Auckland, and all the important Steamship Companies have offices or agencies there. Excursions.—The excursions from Auckland are numerous. (See also " Auckland," in Part II.) Waitaktrei Falls.—Eighteen miles by waggonette or buggy, 30s.; horses to foot of falls, 5s. each. A grand trip for a whole day. Nihotopu Falls. — To Kelly's, waggonette or buggy, 30s.; to Worsley's, £2; this latter is within a mile of the falls, and the fine Kauri forest is close at hand. A very fine whole day's trip. Whitford Park Ostrich Farm.—About twenty miles. Waggonette or buggy, £2. There are now about eighty birds on the farm. Permit required. Sylvia Park Stud Farm.—A pleasant afternoon's drive. Waggonette or buggy, £1. Permit required. Wednesday, visiting day. Mount Eden.—The "Lion" of Auckland. Beautiful view from summit. Landau for two hours, 10s.; hansom cab, 8s. Coaches run to base of Mount Eden hourly. Devonport and Cheltenham Beach.—By ferry steamer (6d. return), across the harbour. Lake Tahapuna.—By ferry to north shore, thence 'bus, 1s. 6d. return ; buggy, 10s. Waiwera.—By steamer, thirty-five miles, return fare, 12s.; coach, from Devonport, 17s. 6d. AVONDALE (Auckland Province), Plo; T-o.—A railway station and suburb, eight miles from Auckland. The Lunatic Asylum stands near there. BALCA1RN (Ashley County, Canterbury Province).—A post town thirty miles north of Christchurch, situated on the South Kowai River, and at a railway station on the Amberley line. The district is well cultivated, with fine mountain scenery to the north and west. The township has a Boarding House, Episcopal Church, and Public School. BALCLUTHA (Clutha County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Fifty-eight miles and a half south west of Dunedin, and connected with it by railway ; the town lies in a bend of the Clutha River, which is crossed by two good bridges, one in the town, the other a railway bridge about half a mile lower down. Balclutha is under Municipal Government, and lies in the centre of a very fertile district; brown coal or lignite is abundant in the neighbourhood. Hotels: Crown, Criterion. Newspaper: Clutha Leader. Banks : New Zealand, National, Colonial. Churches: Episcopal, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, TO NEW ZEALAND. 155 and a Roman Catholic Service held in the Court House. Public School, Library, Masonic, and other lodges. Various Societies, and a Lawn Tennis Club. Excursions.—None strictly so-called, but a coach leaves for Catlin's River, a "bush" sawmill settlement thirty miles' distant, every Tuesday and Friday, returning Wednesdays and Saturdays. BANNOCKBURN (Vincent County, Otago Province).—A mining town, having a telephone office, situated at the foot of the Carrick Ranges, four miles from Cromwell, and 156 north-west of Dunedin. Surrounding district, pastoral and mineral; good brown coal, gold, antimony and other minerals. Inns: Bannockburn, Reefer's Arms, Peaksville. Churches: Presbyterians hold regular service in the School House, and Episcopalians and Roman Catholics occasional services in the same building. There is a Public School and Reading Room in the Township. BAY OF ISLANDS.—See Russell. BLACK S.—See Ophir. BLUFF.—See Campbelltown. BELGROVE (Waimea County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A railway station on the Nelson and Belgrove line, about twenty-three miles from Nelson, on the direct coach route to Reefton. BENDIGO (Vincent County, Otago Province).—About twenty miles north-east from Cromwell, and 153 north-west from Dunedin. A mining town in a district in which many of the claims are now deserted. Hotels: Lindis Pass, Grand View. Church: Wesleyan. Public School. BLENHEIM, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief city of the Marl- borough Province and district, twenty miles south of the chief seaport of Picton, and connected with it by railway. Blenheim is situated on the Wairau Plains, the scene of the well-known massacre in June, 1843. The district is agricultural and pastoral, and the finest on the shores of Cook s Strait. The town has a Municipal Government. Steamer connection with Wellington weekly direct, and bi-weekly vid Picton. Hotel: Criterion. Newspapers: Marlborough Press, Marlborough Times. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, N.S. Wales, National. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan; the Salvation Army has a large Barracks. Public and Private Schools. Hospital and several Public Buildings. Oddfellows' and other Halls, which serve as Assembly Rooms. Thomas Cook & Son have an Agency here (Messrs. E. Mead & Co.), and the U.S.S. Co. likewise. Excursions.—Massacre Hill. Can be seen from the railway between Picton and Blenheim. Forms a pleasant afternoon drive from either place. BLUESKIN (Waikouaiti County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated seventeen miles by railway north-east of Dunedin, on the Waitati River. There is some very fine scenery in the neighbourhood. The Blueskin Cliffs have been a source of great trouble to the engineers of the railway, but the ride in the train is 156 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE most interesting. Hotels: Blueskin, Saratoga. Churches: Presby- terian and Wesleyan. Public School. BULLER GORGE.—Divides with the Otira the honours of being the finest gorges in New Zealand open to traffic. In the direct coach route, Nelson to Westport and Greymouth (vide Part IIb. Coach Routes). BULLS (Rangitikei County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated on the Rangitikei River, forty miles from Wanganui, and 129 north-east of Wellington, with which it is connec- ted by rail and by coach vid Foxton. Greatford (four miles' distant) is the nearest railway station. Bulls is the centre of a fine agricultural and pastoral district, and is named after the first settler, who opened a store in the district. Hotel: Rangitikei. Banks: New Zealand, N.S. Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic. Public School. Public Hall, fitted up as a Theatre, and several Public Buildings. The District Racecourse is close to the town. BURNHAM (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o.—Eighteen miles from Christchurch, on the railway line, and the site of a large Industrial School. There is also an Episcopal Church. CAMBRIDGE (Waikato County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the east bank of the Waikato River, and at the head of the navigable portion, 101 miles south-east of Auckland, and connected with that city by rail, originally a military settlement. It is the centre of a fine agricultural district. Cambridge has several breweries and flour mills, and a butter and cheese factory. There is also a racecourse near the town. Hotel: National. Newspaper: Waihato News. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial. Churches: Episcopal, Baptist, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic. The Episcopal Church has a peal of eight bells. Public School, Hall, Reading Room and Library. The town suffered severely from fire in 1889. CAMPBELLTOWN (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o ; T-o ; M-o; S-b.—Situated in the Bluff Harbour, seventeen miles by rail from Invercargill, the first and last port of call for the steamers from Melbourne, connected by rail vid Invercargill with Kingston (Lake Wakatipu), and with Dunedin, from the latter of which Campbelltown is distant about 150 miles. Large quantities of grain are shipped, and extensive frozen meat works are in operation at Camp- belltown, which is also a favourite summer resort for people from the country and from Invercargill. Hotels: Eagle, Golden Age, Albion Club. Church: Primitive Methodist. Public School. Reading Room. CAMPBELLTOWN (Manawatu County .Wellington Province), T-o; M-o; S-b.—This is a special settlement in Manawatu, on the Orona Downs, about 108 miles from Wellington. A bush township, containing about a hundred families. It has a Public School, and there is a daily mail from Wellington. CARLYLE.—See Patea. 157 CARTERTON (Wairarapa, West County, Wellington Pro- vince), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the railway from Wellington to Masterton, about sixty-two miles from Wellington, surrounded by a fine extensive district. The town itself consists of houses, each with its own garden, which gives it a bright and pleasant look. The Jockey Club for the district meets here, and the Racecourse is within two miles of the town. There are also several saw mills and a dairy factory. Inns: Marquis of Normanby, Elliott, Royal Oak, White Hart. Newspaper: Wairarapa Observer. Bank: Bank of New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Library and Reading Room, Lyceum Hall, and other Public Buildings. CASTLE POINT (Wairarapa, East County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situate on the coast, 108 miles north-north-east of Wellington, and forty miles from the Masterton Railway Station. Steamers from Napier and Wellington call once a week each way, and there is coach communication with Masterton, from which thriving township it makes an exceeding fine excursion. Hotel. Club. CHARLESTON (Buller County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A mining town eighteen miles south-west of West- port, connected by coach with that town twice a week. Inns: Criterion, Melbourne, European, and others. Newspaper: Charleston Herald. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopal, Methodist, Roman Catholic. Public School. Masonic, Oddfellows', and other Lodges. Library and Reading Room, and Public Hospital. CHEDDAR.—See Doyleston. CHEVIOT (Cheviot County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated seventy miles from Christchurch, with which it has a weekly mail communication vid Amberly. CHRISTCHURCH, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The capital city of the Provincial District of Canterbury, situate in the plains on the banks of the River Avon, and about eight miles from Port Lyttelton, with which it is connected by railway. There is a tunnel through the hills more than a mile and a half long on this line, which the citizens owe to the energy and perseverance of Sefton Moorhouse,—after whom Mount Sefton and the Moorhouse Range were called,—a former Superintendent of the Province. Christchurch is the centre of the splendid district of the Canterbury Plains, and has large manufacturing industries, especially in connection with the wool, stock, cereals, and agricultural products of the plains, and of the hills and mountains by which they are bounded. It is the centre also of the Railway System of the Middle Island, and is connected by a good carriage road with the gold fields of Hokitika and the west coast, by way of the grand Otira Gorge. Tourists fond of coaching can prolong their drive to Nelson, through the Buller Gorge, if anything grander still. Christ- church has many fine public and private buildings and beautiful gardens. The first portion of the Cathedral, planned originally on a very ambitious scale, has been used for service for some time. The old Provincial Council Hall, though small, is considered one of 159 the most perfect and beautiful buildings of its kind in the Colony. The suburbs are numerous and populous, and comprise Addington, Linwood, Phillipstown, Richmond, St. Albans, Papanui, and Woolston, as well as Sydenham and others, described herein as separate towns, owing to their having their own Municipal Government, though practically part and parcel of the Cathedral City. In Sydenham alone the population exceeds 10,000, and within an eight- mile radius of the city the population approaches 60,000, but that of Christchurch, within its own borough boundaries, is not 20,000. Hagley Park (400 acres) bounds the city on the west, and the Government Domain comprises about seventy acres, with a fine Botanic Garden. The River Avon, flowing through the gardens and domain, is well stocked with trout, and is a delightful little stream for boating on in a quiet way. Many of its reaches afford dainty views—charming little vistas. The city possesses numerous large open squares, and there are parks in the suburbs. Christchurch has a valuable Museum, and many other excellent Public Institutions, especially Hospitals, Asylums, and others established for benevolent purposes. Christchurch is the head- quarters of the New Zealand Shipping Company. Hotels: Coker's Family Hotel, Warner's Commercial and Metropolitan Temperance. Newspapers: The Press, Lyttlelton Times, Star, Telegraph, Canterbury Times, Weekly Press, New Zealand Methodist, Church News. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, New South Wales, Union, Australasia. Churches: Episcopal, Baptist, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Congre- gational, Wesleyan, United Methodist, Primitive Methodist, Bible Christian, Hebrew Synagogue; Salvation Army Barracks. Public Schools and Private Schools, Agricultural College, Theatres, Public Library, Masonic and other Halls, numerous Social and Athletic Clubs, an excellent Museum, and many other Public Institutions. Clubs : Christchurch,Canterbury, both residential. Thomas Cook & Son have an agency in the city (Messrs. Heywood & Co.); also all the chief Steamship Companies. Excursions.—The walks and drives about the city are numerous (See Christchurch, in Part II ), the Botanical Garden and Museum within half-a-mile make a pleasant stroll. Lincoln Agricultural College.—Thirteen miles by train. Sumner and New Brighton.—The former is reached by tram, the latter by coach. They are both sea-side resorts, and at the former Morton's is a capital hotel. Kaiapoi—One hour by train, was a flourishing town before the railway was made, now all the trade flows to the Cathedral City. Aharoa.—A very pretty place, and one that figures in the history of New Zealand (vide Akaroa). It can be reached by three routes; by the U.S.S. Co.'s steamers, which call at regular intervals; by steamer from Lyttelton to Pigeon's Bay, thence over the hills to Akaroa; or by train to Little River and coach thence. The River Avon affords pleasant boating and trout fishing. Hanmer Hot Springs.—By rail to Culverden, thence by coach. Two or three days should be allowed, as it takes a day to go, and another to return. An interesting excursion. i6o BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE CLARKEVILLE.—A railway station on the Dunedin and Inver- cargill line, thirty-eight miles from Dunedin, and two miles from Milton. The line to Lawrence branches off at this point. This line is a most curious one; its course is so sinuous that one can hardly pass from one side of the carriage to the other quick enough to watch the sweep of the curves. Most of the country people and children riding on it for the first time quarrel with their last meal. It passes within full view of what were formerly the richest diggings in Otago. CLINTON (Clutha County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o ; M-o; S-b.—Situated on the railway line between Dunedin and Invercargill, about seventy-four miles from the former, in the centre of a fine agricul- tural and grazing district. There are refreshment rooms at the station. Inns : Royal Mail, Railway, Commercial, Prince of Wales. Newspaper: Popotunotu Chronicle. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian. Public School, Public Library and Reading Room. Caledonian Society, and various Social and Athletic Unions. CLIVE (Hawke's Bay County, Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o.—A pleasant little town in a thriving district, on the southern bank of the Ngararuru River, about six miles from Napier, and connected by a Suspension Bridge with the Railway Station of Farndon, on the northern side. Clive has several wool-washing, boiling down, and other factories, as well as a brewery and steam flour mill. It has also a Public School, a Church (Episcopal), and a Public Hall. CLYDE (Vincent County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Formerly known as Dunstan, 126 miles north-west of Dune- din, with which it is connected by rail and coach; the rail extends to Palmerston, and coach is taken thence. Clyde stands on the left bank of the Clutha River. The country around is devoted partly to mining, and partly to pastoral pursuits, with limited agricultural operations, but celebrated for its fruit-growing capabilities. Inns: Dunstan, Port Philip, Junction, Hartley Arms, Vincent County, and others. Newspaper: Dunstan Times. Churches: Episcopalian, Pres- byterian. Public School, Library, Hospital, and Town Hall. CLYDE.—See Wairoa. COALGATE (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o.—Thirty-eight miles south-west of Christchurch. A rail- way station on the Darfield and White Cliffs line. It has one Inn and a daily Mail. COLLINGWOOD (Collingwood County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Stands at the mouth of the River Aurere, sixty-five miles north-west of Nelson City, with which there is communication by coasting steamer and sailing vessels. The productions of the district are chiefly coal and gold, but it is believed to be rich in other minerals. Inns: Commercial, Miner's Arms. Church: Episcopal. Has a Public School. COROMANDEL (Coromandel County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A mining township in the centre of a picturesque mining district at Coromandel Harbour, in the Hauraki TO NEW ZEALAND. 161 Gulf. Coromandel, part of which was formerly called Kapanga, is about forty miles from Auckland across the gulf, and communication is maintained by steamers, running regularly. The district is extensive and hilly, and abounds in fine scenery. Gold mining is actively prosecuted on a considerable scale, and Coromandel is also connected with a valuable timber country.. Hotels and Inns: Boyd's Com- mercial, Kapanga, Wharf, Bridge, Golconda, Star and Garter, Royal Mail. Newspaper: Coromandel News. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public School, Library, and Reading Room. Oddfellows' and other Societies and Hall. Coromandel forms a pleasant excursion from Auckland, whence its ranges are visible on a clear day, closing in the splendid picture of the harbour and its surroundings, which in its way is unique. CRAIG1EBURN (Rodney County, Auckland Province).—Lies thirty-five miles north of Auckland, on the Mahurangi River. The district is celebrated for its hydraulic lime, in making which several kilns and a good deal of machinery are employed. The river is navigable for fifteen miles for small craft, and above this portion there are several waterfalls available :for power. There is one Inn, a Public School, and a Presbyterian Church. CRIFFEL (Otago Province).—An alluvial goldfield town on the top of the Pisa Range, 4,000 feet above the sea, between the Cardrona River and the Luggate Creek, about ten miles from Pembroke (Lake Wanaka), and thirty-six from Cromwell. There is an Inn (Maid- ment's) at Criffel. CROFTON (Rangitikei County, Wellington Province).—A small post town on the road between Marton and Bulls in the Rangitikei District, two-and-a-half miles from Marton, thirty-six, from Wanganui, and 138 from Wellington. It is a temperance township, and has a Wesleyan Church. CROFTON (Wellington Province).—A railway station three miles north of Wellington, on the Wellington Manawatu Company's line. CROMWELL (Vincent County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief town of the Kawarau district, 140 miles north- west of Dunedin, with which it is connected by coach and rail vid Lawrence in one direction and vid Queenstown in the other. It is also connected with Lake Wanaka (Pembroke) by coach. Cromwell lies at the junction of the Kawarau and the Clutha Rivers, and is the centre of a valuable and extensive quartz-mining district. The little town may be said to be built on gold, and there is a good deal of dredging for gold carried on in the bed of the Clutha. Coal mines are largely worked in the neighbourhood, for the extraction of the lignite or brown coal so abundant in Otago. Hotels: Mountey's, Junction, and Commercial. Newspaper: Cromwell Argus. Banks: New Zealand Colonial, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, .Wesleyan, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Library, Hospital, and other Institutions. L l62 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE CULVERDEN (Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b. —A railway station, sixty-nine miles from Christchurch, on the route to the Hanmer Hot Springs. Hotel: Culverden. CUST (Ashley County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o.— A railway station on the Rangiora and Oxford line, thirty-three miles north-west of Christchurch. Cust has an Inn (Ramsey's!, a Public School, a Library and Reading Room. DANNEVIRKE (Waipawa County, Hawke's Bay Province), T-o; Tel-o; M-o; S.b.—Situated on the railway line from Napier to Wellington, eighty-five miles from Napier, and one mile from Taho- raite. This is a Danish settlement in the heart of the seventy mile bush, brick and tile works and sawmills in the neighbourhood. There are two Inns, the Railway and the Dannevirke, also a Public School. DARGAVILLE (Hobson County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated on the North Wairoa River, in the centre of a valuable timber country, Kauri being abundant up the river and on the hills. The Kaihu Valley Railway is now nearly finished. This will connect with the Kaihu, and its splendid forests and fine land. Steamers run regularly from Dargaville to Helensville; thence there is rail communication with Auckland. Hotels: Northern Wairoa, Kaihu. Newspaper: North Wairoa Gazette. Bank: New Zealand. Church: Episcopalian. Public School, Reading Room and Library, Court House, Public Hall and Racecourse. DEVON PORT.—Is a pretty marine suburb on the Waitemata, just opposite to Auckland. A favourite summer resort, about two miles north-east of Auckland, and in constant and close communica- tion with that city by fine swift ferry steamers, belonging to the Devonport Ferry Company. Ship-building is carried on at Devon- port, and the Calliope Dock, the largest dry dock in Australasia, is close to its boundary. The hills are strongly fortified to protect the channel which runs past them to Auckland Harbour; on one, the North Head, Fort Cautley is erected; on another, Mount Victoria, is the signal station. Hotels: Masonic, Flagstaff; and many excellent Boarding Houses. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public School, Reading Room and Library, Public Hall, and several Clubs and other Social Institutions. Excursions.—To Lake Takapuna; to Waiwera, Warkworth (vide Coach Routes, Part Hb), and across the harbour to Rangitoto, or " Bloody Sky," an extinct volcano. DOYLESTON (or CHEDDAR) (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; Tel-o.—Situate in a fine district, twenty-six miles south of Christchurch, and on the railway line from Christchurch to Dunedin. It possesses an Inn (James). Also a Public School, and Oddfellows' and other Lodges. DREYERTON.—See Opaki. DRURY (Manukau County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A small township on the railway line, Auckland to Waikato, twenty-two miles from Auckland. It was a centre of operations during the earlier portion of the war in 1865 with the i63 Maoris of Waikato. Its coal mines were worked some years ago, but have since been abandoned. Hotel: The Farmers'. Churches: Episcopalian, Catholic, Presbyterian. Public School. DUNEDIN (the Capital of the Otago Province), P-o; T-o: M-o; S-b.—Dunedin is, in respect to buildings, the finest city in New Zealand. The situation is very beautiful, at the head of a deep inlet with lofty hills on either side, and abounding in the most striking views and lovely scenery. Dunedin ranks first in commercial import- ance in the Colony, having at its back a magnifient agricultural, pastoral and mining country, with extensive woollen, iron, earthen- ware, leather, and other factories. By continued dredging the channel, between Port Chalmers at the one end, and Dunedin, seven miles away, at the other, has been so widened and deepened that large steamers now go straight to the Dunedin wharf. The Benevolent Institutions of the city are numerous. Its Hospital and Public Lunatic Asylum are among the best in the Colony, and it has the advantage of a Private Lunatic Asylum (Ashburn Hall), where patients are provided with accommodation suitable to their habits and tastes, a distinction which in the crowded Public Asylums is impossible. Around Dunedin runs the Town Belt, a beautifully wooded park which embraces the Botanical Gardens. The suburbs are numerous and excellently situated, and the city is well supplied with clear fresh water from a stream in the neighbouring hills. Some of the suburbs on the loftier hills are connected with the city by Cable Tramways. The railway connects Dunedin with its seaport (Port Chalmers), and runs north to Christchurch, south to Invercargill, and west to Law- rence, from which last-named place it is connected by coach with the Cold Lakes and other parts of the interior. Mail steamers run weekly to Melbourne, and at short intervals to the other ports of the Colony. Dunedin is the head-quarters of the Union Steam Shipping Company, to whom with their splendid fleet of coasting and ocean-going steamers, which were first started in that city, New Zealand owes much of its progress and attractiveness to travellers. The ocean beach and other pleasant resorts offer numerous attractions, and are much frequented by the citizens. There are two excellent clubs in Dunedin. Hotels: a great number, among which are the Grand Hotel, Wain's, City, Occidental, Prince of Wales, Imperial, Criterion, Universal, Sussex, etc. Newspapers: Otago Daily Times, Evening Star, Evening Herald, Otago Witness, New Zealand Tablet, Illustrated News, Temperance Herald, Churchman, Presbyterian. Banks: Colonial, Union, New Zealand, National, New South Wales, Australasia. Churches: Episcopal, Pres- byterian, Wesleyan, Primitive Methodist, Baptist, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Hebrew Synagogue, Salvation Army. Several Public and Private Schools. The Otago University. Public Library and Reading Rooms. Museum. Two Theatres. Lyceum and other Halls. Masonic and other Lodges. Caledonian Society, and Social and Athletic Clubs of every description. Clubs: Dunedin, a residential Club; Southern, non-resident. Thomas Cook & Son have an Agency in the city (Mr. Keith Ramsay, agent). The London Shipping Company have also an Agency here; also in all the chief towns. Excursions.—To Portobello.—A pleasant steam in the harbour. Steamers ply at regular intervals at low rates. TO NEW ZEALAND. 165 FEILDING (Manawatu County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—An agricultural township, fifty-one miles south-east from Wanganui, and thirty-five miles from Foxton, on the Wellington- Manawatu line of railway. Feilding was founded in connection with the Manchester settlement, the property of the Emigrant and Colonists' Aid Corporation of London, who bought 106,000 acres in 1872, and sent out emigrants soon after. The district is agricultural and grazing, and abounds with fine totara and other timber. Hotels: Denbigh, Empire, Feilding. Newspaper: Feilding Star. Banks : New Zealand, Australasia. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Primitive Methodist, Christian Brethren. Public School; fine Theatrical Hall, and various Lodges and Societies. FOXTON (Manawatu County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A thriving little town on the right bank of the Manawatu, seventy-five miles north-east from Wellington, on the Government line of railway. The Manawatu being navigable for small vessels for fifty miles from its mouth. Foxton has also com- munication with Wellington by steamer. The connection by rail is a short branch line to Longburn, which is the junction of the Govern- ment line from New Plymouth, with the line of the Wellington and Manawatu Company. Another short line, now being constructed, through the Manawatu Gorge will connect the west coast lines at Woodville with those running down the east coast from Napier to Wellington. Hotels: Foxton, Manawatu, Family. Newspaper: Manawatu Herald. Banks: New Zealand, Australasia. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Primitive Methodist. Public School, Reading Room, Hall, and various Lodges and Societies. GERALDINE (Geraldine County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is a small town on the Waihi River, eighty- six miles south-west of Christchurch, and within four miles of the Orari Station on the line to Dunedin. The surrounding district is very fertile and productive. Hotels: Geraldine, Crown, Bush's. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Primitive Methodist, Wesleyan. Public and Private School, Library Hall; various Lodges and Societies. GISBORNE (Cook County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated at the mouth of the River Turanganui, 250 miles south-east of Auckland,and about eighty miles north-east from Napier, on the shores of Poverty Bay, close to the spot where Cook first landed in New Zealand, in 1776, and within ten or twelves miles of Matawhero, the scene of the horrible massacre of Europeans and friendly natives by Te Kooti, on the night of the 9th November, 1868. Gisborne is the port for a very fine and extensive agricultural and grazing country, but the harbour is not safe in all weathers. The lofty mountains around have so far prevented any access from other places by land, and efforts to improve the harbour by a breakwater are now being made. The natives own large blocks of land in this district, which has pre- vented it from making the progress that with its resources it would otherwise have done. The name, Poverty Bay, was given by Captain Cook, owing to an unfortunate misunderstanding with the natives, which i66 brett's handy guide ended in one of their number being shot, and their consequently refusing to send supplies for his vessels. He was forced, therefore, to leave for the next bay, where he found the Maoris much more pleasant, and obtaining the supplies he wanted, he called that place Bay of Plenty. There is a very good private club in Gisborne, and the buildings in the town are large and well-built. Hotels: Masonic, Argyle, Albion, and others. Newspapers: Herald, Standard. Banks: New Zealand, Union, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Congregational. Public School, Library and Reading Room, Hospital, Public Hall ; various Lodges and other Societies. Club: Gisborne. GLENORCHY (Lake County, Otago Province), P-o.—A small government township, consisting of three hotels at the head of Lake Wakatipu, 134 miles north from Invercargill, thirty-three from Queenstown, fifty-two from Kingston, and about 229 north-west of Dunedin. Communication with Queenstown, tri-weekly, by the Lake Wakatipu S.S. Company's steamers, and by bridle track (thirty-eight miles). Fare to or from Queenstown, 10s., saloon; steerage, 7s. 6d.; return, 15s.; steerage, lis. Hotel : J. K. Birley's "Mount Earnslaw Hotel," is the oldest established, the largest, and the best provided with buggies, horses, and boats; while Harry Birley is undoubtedly the best guide in the district. Tourists receive every attention at Mr. and Mrs. Birley's hands, and will enjoy the homely comfort of the hotel. Charges, 10s. per day, or £2 2s. to £3 3s. per week. Lawn tennis ; splendid view of the lake and heights. (N.B.— Special terms for parties of four or more.) Daniel's Hotel is a new well-found house, patronised by newly-married couples, etc., etc. Mr. Daniel will be found very obliging, and anxious to assist tourists in every way, and his house all that can be desired. Terms about the same. Fine view. Lawn tennis. Wilson's Hotel stands some distance back from the lake. Glenorchy is a great centre for excursions, and tourists will do well to allow themselves at least a fortnight in this charming spot. Excursions.—The Sheelite Mine.—Up the slopes of Mount Judah, four miles each way. Buggy or horse can be taken all the way. Time, one-and-a-quarter hours in ascending, rather less returning. An interesting trip. Diamond Lake and Paradise Flat.—Distance, ourteen miles, vid the Rees Gorge, and across Rees River. Time, two-and-three-quarter hours each way. Two-horse buggy for two people, 25s.; £2 for five. Mount Earnslaw (Glaciers only).—Drive from hotel as above across Rees River to the large paddock extending to Diamond Lake; follow tussock spur north-east, rising to ridge about 2,800 feet. There is a good sheep track along the ridge for three miles, although large rocks obstruct the part in one or two places. Keeping always to summit of ridge, travelling is easy until you reach the great rocky mass. Cross same on left, over shingle, and pick your way down to the glacier. Near this rocky mass there is a descent inwards by a tussock spur to Earnslaw Creek, where the ice from glacier is piled 200 feet high. Time, drive, one-and-a-half hours; climb to ridge, two-and-a- half hours (there are two springs half-way, making a good place to lunch); from ridge to glacier, two-and-a-half hours. Saddle horses, 168 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Queenstown. By bridle track following the edge of the lake, dangerous in parts and hardly to be recommended. Lake Harris and Ocean Peak vid, Routeburn Gorge and Lake Harris Falls. Buggy to Routeburn Station (nine miles); saddle-horses to Lake Harris Hut (nine miles); campfornight. Next day on foot to Ocean Peak (six miles), from which a view extends to the sea, as well as to Lake Harris, Lake Howden, and Lake Gun. Total, twenty-four miles, two days' trip. Lake Harris Falls, distance eighteen miles. A trip thither can be made in one day. The lake is said to be one of the highest in the world. Horses, buggy, and guide as before. Te Anau and Manapouri (vide Kinloch, page 180). Lake Luna. Horses can be taken along the Queenstown bridle track and up spurs of the Richardson Range to the Razor Back (sixteen miles), thence a two-mile walk brings the traveller to the lake, which is about 3,000 feet above the sea, three miles long, and three-quarters wide. Time, six hours each way. A good trip. Horses, &c., as before. Kinloch.—Thrice weekly by the Lake Wakatipu Steamship Co.'s boats; otherwise by boat (two-and-a-half miles); or buggy in winter- time (four miles), when the rivers are low. Time, half-hour by boat; one hour by buggy. Stone Peak (7,222).—Horses can be taken to saddle of Mount Tudah (six miles), thence two miles on foot. A stiff climb. Track can be described at hotel. Horses as before. Mount Alfred (4,412).—Horses can be taken to summit; or buggy to Paradise Duck Flat; and then on foot, ascending northern slope and descending southern. View from summit is very extensive, and includes Lake Wakatipu, Sylvan, Diamond, and Reed. A grand vista up the Routeburn and Beanburn Valleys; and the Earnslaw, Forbes, Kosmos, Humbolt, and Richardson Ranges. Distance, thirteen miles; time, six hours each way. Charges as before; an easy and good trip. Martin's Bay vid Routeburn and Lake Harris.—Camp first night at foot of Saddle, in Hollyford Valley; camp second night at Pyke's Creek, or head of Lake McKerrow. On third day reach Martin's Bay. A good week's trip altogether. Horses can be taken as far as Lake Harris Hut, at foot of falls; on foot afterwards. Distance about eighty miles each way. A very fine trip, though rarely attempted. Camp requisites can be had at Birley's Hotel. Men to carry camp furniture, ios. each per day. For a party of four two men required. Horses, each, £2 5s. for the trip; left at Natural Paddock to await return. Guide as before. Expenses for a party of four may be set down at /30, including provisions. Mount Boupland and Hathaway Peak and Glacier (vide Kinloch). Sport.—Plenty of fine rabbit shooting. Wild duck on Diamond and Reed Lakes. Fishing in the same with artificial minnow for lake trout, which in Lake Wakatipu have been netted up to twenty-nine lbs. weight; perch run to two and a half lbs.; and native eels to seventy lbs. Gold in very small particles can be washed for and obtained about a mile from Birley's Hotel in Buckleiburn Creek. - 170 bkett's handy guide GREYMOUTH (Grey County, Westland Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—Situate on the southern bank of the Grey River on the West Coast of the South Island, twenty miles north of Hokitika, and 190 miles south-west from Nelson. Like all ports on the west coast it possesses a bar-harbour, which is very good when inside the bar, and the district abounds in very fine coal, in gold, and in other minerals. The Midland Railway, which has been lately begun, will connect it with Nelson and Christchurch, but meantime it is connected with by both coach roads and by steamer. Coach roads also con- nect Greymouth with Reefton and other mining towns in the interior, and with Hokitika. The Harbour works, being also constructed, have deepened the channel through the bar, and the export of coal is in- creasing rapidly. The town is very pretty, but the lower part is liable to be flooded by the Grey River. Greymouth is the port and centre for the neighbouring extensive district, which is generally mountainous but abounding in mineral wealth yet to be developed. The soil in the valley is of very fine quality. Hotels: Gilmer's, Albion, and several Inns. Newspapers: Daily Argus, Evening Star, Weekly Argus. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Library and Reading Room, Hospital, Public Hall, Lodge Buildings, and many others. GREYTON (Wairarapa West County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Fifty-eight miles north-north-east from Wellington, on the Waiohine River, and connected by a short branch with the Wellington-Napier Railway. It is the centre of a large pastoral district, and with good agricultural land in the vicinity. The town stands on the old coach road to Masterton from Wellington, on the sides of which road it is built. There are several saw mills, coach builders, and similar factories. Inns: Greytown, Rising Sun, Foresters' Arms. Newspaper: Wairarapa Standard. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Public Library and Hall, Hospital, Foresters' and other Lodges, Working Men's Club, etc. HALCOMBE (Manawatu County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—119 miles north-east of Wellington, and forty-three miles south-east of Wanganui, with both of which it is connected by rail. The district around (part of the Manchester block) is agricultural, and has several saw mills. Hotel: Halcombe. Bank: New Zealand. Churches : Wesleyan, Roman Catholic. Public School and other buildings. HAMILTON (Waikato County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated eighty-six miles south of Auckland on the Auckland-Waikato Railway, and on the banks of the Waikato. The township stands on high ground, and is extremely picturesque. It is the chief town of the Waikato district, in communication by rail with Cambridge, Te Aroha and the intervening towns, as well as with the King Country. It is built on both banks of the river, which are con- nected by a well-built bridge. It is an excellent place to stop at to break the journey to the Hot Lakes. The town possesses a brewery, cheese and butter factory, soap factory, brick and pottery, and other indus- TO NEW ZEALAND. from which its summit can be gained in a few minutes. From it can be seen the changes in the glacier (Mueller), which take place almost daily. The visitor can see the whole face of Mount Sefton (part of Moorhouse Range), from which avalanches are constantly falling, and he can also see Aorangi with the Hooker Glacier at its base winding down the valley towards him. The Mueller Glacier has moved about 400 feet in the last two years. To the Terminal Face (Mueller Glacier) River and he Caves.— Follow the track at the rear of the Hermitage to the terminal moraine, whence a view of the Mueller River and terminal face can be obtained. Thence the traveller looks down on the roaring torrent of the Hooker River, and descending to its conflux with the Mueller, can follow the latter to its source, ie., to the spot whence it rushes from under the ice. The caves are in the vicinity of this spot, and there, too, can be seen the serac ice within the terminal face. The finest caves and ice buttresses and pinnacles are farther on, over the moraine debris or round the boulder-strewn shore of the Hooker River. This trip is short but interesting, the walking rough, and requiring good boots. It is necessary to be careful not to shout about the ice caves, and it is essential to look out for falling stones when entering a cave, or when passing at the foot of a pile of moraine matter. The terminal face is covered with huge blocks of stone brought from the highest ranges. Time for this excursion, two to four hours, according to circumstances. The Ascent of Sealy Range.—Walk straight from the Hermitage to the shingle slope (couloir) some three hundred yards away to the north-east. Ascend till reaching the grass slopes and tarns above the bush line; thence it is an easy climb to the ridge. The gradient to Huddleston Peak, the highest on this side of the range, is likewise easy, but the highest of all, Sealy Peak (8,700 feet), requires a very long day—in fact the start should be effected at about 4 a.m. to do it properly ; the view thence, however, well repays the labour. Even from Huddleston Peak the view is very com- prehensive, and includes the whole of the Moorhouse Range, Mounts Sefton, Cook, and Stokes, the Hooker and Mueller Glaciers, Tasman Valley, Mackenzie Plains, and many peaks that are unnamed. Time, four hours for an average climber. Distance, about five miles each way. Can be done on foot without a guide, and is a much-recom- mended climb. The ascent of Sebastopool (about 4,000 feet).—Start from Governor's Camp on the north slope of Sealy Range, gradually rising till the high bluffs of Sebastopool—enclosing several fine mountain tarns —are gained. From the summit, there is a fine view of the terminal face of the Tasman Glacier, and up the Murchison Valley to Mount Darwin. Time, two-and-a-half hours for ascent. Distance, one-and- a-half miles to Governor's Camp, and one-and-a-half miles to summit. To the Black Birch Creek.—Vid Governor's Camp to the Gorge of Black Birch Creek, where edelweiss grows. Higher up an avalanche deposit and waterfall may be seen, the mountains rising almost perpendicularly overhead. Time to the head of the Gorge and back three hours. A most romantic excursion. If the Manager of the Hermitage will hold converse with the parrots (Kakas) in the 174 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE black birch woods, the Governor's Camp, the travellers will see a curious sight. To the foot of Mount Sefton.—Leave the Hermitage, travelling due west to the foot of the Sealy Range, then strike to the right up the lateral moraine into Mako Valley, until reaching Kea Point,whence the Southern lateral moraine of the Mueller Glacier starts. From Kea Point strike across the glacier over moraine debris to the ice cascade of Mount Sefton. A little below this stands Point Nicolo, whence the northern lateral moraine of this glacier commences. The traveller will pass en route the crevassed and broken ice mills (moulins) and surface streams running over the clear ice and emptying themselves into the appa- rently bottomless ice shafts. From the base of Mount Sefton, ice tables and hills can frequently be seen, and many an avalanche comes thundering down. The view thence includes all the eastern base of this great " White Lady," in its beauty and in the formation of its in- dented summits not unlike Ixtacihuatl, the " White Lady " of Mexico. An extended walk can be made round Mueller Glacier and back by the Sealy Range, or again by striking down the northern lateral moraine, from which also a capital and comprehensive view can be obtained. Northwards you glance up the Hooker, south-west up the Mueller, and south-east to the Tasman Valley, and also see the glacier overhanging from the very face of Mount Sefton. This glacier can be visited another day. Time, six hours (practicable for ladies). Distance only five miles, but walking over the moraine debris, heavy and slow. To the Hooker Glacier and base of Mount Cook.—Crossing Mueller Glacier, make for a low saddle (col) in the northern moraine, then strike into the valley of the Upper Hooker full of a large number of sub-alpine and high alpine plants, including the Giant Ranunculus. These high alpine specimens have been transported from loftier regions, according to Captain Hutton, on the surface of old glaciers, for nowhere else are they to be found at the same altitude. Travel three-fourths of a mile up this valley, and the Hooker Glacier'is reached with Mount Cook looming above. Time, three hours each way. An extended excursion can be made by good walkers, to the face of the pinnacles on Mount Cook. This requires twelve hours there and back, so that an early start must be made. HELENSVILLE (Waitemata County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situate on the eastern shore of the Kaipara River and distant thirty-eight miles north-west of Auckland. Com- munication by rail with Auckland, and by steamer up the Kaipara, Wairoa, Otamatea, and other of the rivers in the western portion of the Peninsula north of Auckland. The district abounds in timber, and there are extensive saw mills. The rivers on the west coast contain immense quantities of mullet, and the canning of fish as well as fruit is carried on at Helensville. Hotels: Kaipara, Terminus, Helens- ville. Churches: Episcopal, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School. Oddfellows' and Foresters' Halls. Public Library, etc. HERBERT.—See Otepopo. HOKIANGA (Hokianga County, Auckland Province), P-o; • T-o; M-o; S-b.—There are several small settlements on this great TO NEW ZEALAND. 175 inlet of the sea; the bar at the mouth of which can be crossed, and the Hokianga navigated for many miles by vessels of 1,000 tons. The old native town of Rawene is now known as Herd's Point, where there are two inns. Higher up the river there is Horeke, an old timber-exporting settlement, at which the first shipyards in New Zealand were established. This settlement is a post town, connected by a coach road with Kawakawa at the Bay of Islands, and has an hotel (Bindon's), but a very small European population. The Hokianga district was at one time one of the largest kauri pine districts in the Colony, but its most accessible forests have long been worked out. Running into the Hokianga are several beautiful and fertile valleys, well watered and gradually becoming settled. The climate is most favourable to fruit growing, to which the new settlers are. largely devoting their attention. Small deposits of quicksilver, nearly pure, have been found in the district. There are public schools in the different settlements, and a library in connection with each as a rule. There is communication by steamer with Onehunga, also by coach across country to Kawakawa and Russell, thence by steamer to Auckland, or via, Kawakawa and Whangarei by coach, thence to Auckland by steamer. HOKITIKA (Westland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief town on the west coast of the south island, twenty-two miles south of Greymouth, and 154 miles west of Christchurch, connected with Christchurch, by coach and rail. The coach route, passing through the Otira Gorge over the Southern Alps, through scenery of the grandest description, to Springfield, from thence the railway is taken to Christchurch. The district around is almost exclusively devoted to gold-mining. In 1866, it yielded nearly one and-a-hatf million pounds' worth of gold, but has since fallen gradually to less than two hundred thousand pounds per annum. There are three breweries, tanneries, saw mills and other factories. Hotels: The Empire, Com- mercial, etc., and several Inns. Newspapers: Daily West Coast Times, Evening Guardian, Weekly Leader. Banks: New Zealand, Union, New South Wales, National. Churches: Episcopal, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, Hebrew Synagogue. Public and Private Schools. Theatre, Hall, Library, Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, Literary Society, and many others, as well as Masonic, Oddfellows', Foresters', and other Lodges. Excursions.—Some days can be well spent in visiting Mahinapua and Kanieri Lakes, and Ross, a flourishing mining township in the south. Lake Kanieri (seventeen miles by road) is a most lovely body of water, equal (in the opinion of some world-wide travellers) in beauty to any lake in the world. The hills round it, of which there are several ranges, rising higher and higher as they recede from the lake, are completely bush clad down to the water's edge, the rata even in places growing in the water. Leaving the lake out of the question, the drive is a most enjoyable one, being through very fine bush ; ferns abound, particularly the moss fern (Todea Superba) and the kidney fern. Lake Mahinapua, which, however, resembles an immense swamp more than a lake lying as it does among the bush with no high ground round or near it, should certainly be visited, if only on account of the trip up the lovely river leading to it. It is only six 176 brett's handy guide miles from town, and is reached by boat up the river of the same name which drains it. The river runs through a fine forest, the trees almost meeting overhead in places, while toi toi, flax, ferns, and fern- trees grow right down to the water's edge in places in a most charming way. If the day is calm and fine very grand reflections are to be seen in the river. In visiting Ross, it is possible either to drive all the way, or to take the steamer across Mahinapua Lake and drive the rest of the way. A very fine view of Mount Cook, seventy miles away, is obtainable from Hokitika, and another across the sea, from the tramway between Kumara and Greymouth. Greymouth.—In order to reach Greymouth, steps must be retraced to Kumara, and either of the routes already mentioned taken from there. Jf the tramway is chosen the traveller will probably ex- perience a new sensation, in crossing the Teremakau River in a cage, over a wire cable. Brunner.—Seven miles from Greymouth, is the Newcastle of New Zealand, extensive coal workings being carried on by the Brunner Coal Pit, Heath, and Westport Companies. Western Glaciers of Mount Cork (vid Ross, twenty miles, and Okarito, sixty miles), vide Ross. HOWICK (Auckland Province), P-o; Tel-o.—A small well- situated suburb, fifteen miles from Auckland, reached by 'bus. One of the pensioners settlements, and a favourite picnic resort. At Whitford Park, six miles beyond Howick, is Messrs. L. D. Nathan's ostrich farm. HUNTLEY (Waikato County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A town on the Waikato-Auckland Railway line, situated on the River Waikato, sixty-five miles from Auckland. The Taupiri and Waikato Coal Mines, close to Huntley, are in full work, and send large quantities of coal by rail to Auckland. The coal is light but bituminous, and very good for household purposes, and is also used for the Government railways. There is an Hotel, a Public School and Library, at Huntley. HURUNUI (Ashley County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o.—A railway station on the line from Christchurch to Blenheim, fifty-two miles north of Christchurch, on the banks of the Hurunui River, the boundary between Canterbury and Nelson. It possesses an Hotel and a Public School. HUTT, Lower (Hutt County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is situated on the Hutt River, eight miles north- east from Wellington, and the centre of the fine Hutt Valley. The Hutt may be regarded as a suburb of Wellington, with which it is connected by coach road and by rail. Many of the Wellington mer- chants live at the Hutt, which is a pleasant rural township with very fine gardens. Hotels: Railway, Cadby's Family, Fraser's. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public and Private Schools. Public Hall and various Social Institutions. 178 brett's handy guide Hollyford River, in the heart of a densely timbered district. The difficulty of access by land, and the rare visits by sea, have kept this district back very materially. The postal name of the town is still Martin's Bay. JOHNSONVILLE, P-o; T o; M-o; S-b—A suburb of Welling- ton, six miles west on the rail to Taranaki. Has an hotel (Taylor's), an Episcopal Church, Wesleyan Church, and a Public School. KAIAPOI (Ashley County), Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o '- M-o; S-b.—Situated on the Waimakariri River, fourteen miles north of Christchurch, with which it is connected by railway. The river is navigable for small steamers to the centre of the town. The district is a flourishing one, but the township is chiefly celebrated for its woollen factory, the fame of which is known far beyond New Zealand Kaiapoi has a bacon and ham-curing establishment, saw mills, brewery, agricultural implement factory, and several others. The woollen factory, when in full work, employs 600 hands. Hotels: Kaiapoi, Middleton, Mandeville, Pier, Kaikanui. Bank : New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, Library and Reading Room, Oddfellows' and other Lodges, Working Men's Club, and several Societies, KAIKORA (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— Thirty-five miles from Napier, on the railway line and coach road. Has an hotel (the Railway), a Presbyterian Church, and occasional services are held in the School-room by clergymen of other churches; also a Public School and a Library in connection with it. KAIKOURA (Marlborough Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— About 10f) miles north-east of Christchurch, and 100 south of Blenheim, situated on the shores of Ingle's Bay, on the north side of the Kaikoura Peninsula. Regular communication by steamer with Wellington and with Lyttelton. The town is the shipping port for a fine agricultural and pastoral country, and has a brewery, flour mill, and two saw-mills. Inns:. Club, Pier, Adelphi, Commercial. News- paper: Kaikoura Star. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episco- palian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian. Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, Library and Reading Room, Good Templar's Hall, and various Lodges and Societies. KAIPARA (Auckland Province).—A large arm of the sea on West Coast of North Island. Vessels of large tonnage can enter the harbour at high water. A lighthouse has been erected at the heads. The main outlet for all the Kauri timber from Helensville, Northern Wairoa, and other districts. KAITANG ATA (Bruce County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situate fifty-five miles south-west from Dunedin, on a branch of the Clutha River, about eight miles from its mouth. Vessels of seventy to eighty tons can cross the bar and go to Kaitangata. A branch line from Stirling, about five miles long, also connects this township with the line to Dunedin. Coal mines are worked in the district, and yield good returns. The land is of a rich nature for agricultural purposes, and very picturesque. Hotels: Bridge, Club. Church: Presbyterian. TO NEW ZEALAND. 179 "Church of Christ " preachers hold services in the Public Hall. Public School, Hall, Masonic and other Lodges, Public Library, etc. Excursion to Kaitangata Lakes on which there is black swan and wild-duck shooting. KAKANUI (Waitaki County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Seventy-four miles north of Dunedin, fourteen miles from Oamaru, two miles from the Totara Station, and five miles from Maheno on the Dunedin Railway. The harbour at the mouth of the river admits vessels of considerable size, and has large meat-freezing and fellmongery works, etc. Hotels: Royal, Criterion. Churches: Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public School, Library and Reading Room. KAMO (Whangarei County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Six miles from Whangarei, with which it is connected by rail, and thence by steamer with Auckland. Situated in a coal-mining district, of which it forms the centre. There is excellent agricultural land in the neighbourhood, and some effervescent mineral springs. Hotels: Kamo, Exchange. Church: Wesleyan. Public School and other buildings. Excursions can be made from Kamo, as from Whangerei to Rowdy Town, a gumdigger's camp, the Wairua Falls, the Abbey Stalactite Caves, etc. KAPANGA.—See Coromandel. KARITANE (Waikouaiti County, Otago Province).—A small harbour connected with Waikouaiti, accessible for small vessels, and chiefly inhabited by Maoris. There is a Public School in which only English is spoken. KATIKATI (Cook County, Auckland Province).—A special agricultural settlement between the Thames and Tauranga, of which the centre is Waterford. There is' a large quantity of land under cultivation in the district, which is connected by coach with Tauranga on the one hand, and Grahamstown and Te Aroha also by coach on the other. Waterford has an hotel, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b; an Epis- copal Church, and there are several Public Schools in the district. KAUKAPAKAPA (Waitemata County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o.—About six miles from Helensville, the centre of a pretty agricultural settlement, with the Kaukapakapa River running through it. Fruit is largely grown there and in the district. Several mills have been erected for treating the New Zealand flax (phormium tenax). It has also a Public School and a Wesleyan Church. The railway is now extended to this place. KAWAKAWA (Bay of Islands County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The centre of a coal-mining district at the Bay of Islands on the Kawakawa River, about fourteen miles from Russell, with which it is connected by railway to the opposite side of the harbour at Opua, and thence four miles down the harbour by water. The coal mines in the district are extensive and the coal is of good quality. At the end of the railway there is a good wharf, accessible to large steamers. Hotel: Swift's. i8o BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE KAWARAU (Vincent County, Otago Province), P-o.—Lies about three miles from Cromwell, in the deep picturesque gorge of the River Kawarau, which presents in its course scenes of a grim grandeur. The coach route from Queenstown traverses the Kawarau Gorge, and continues thence to Lawrence through the heart of the gold-fields district. There is a coal mine in the vicinity of Kawarau, which also possesses four Inns and a Public School. KELSO (Tuapeka County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Ninety-eight miles west from Dunedin, and seventy-two miles from Invercargill. Has extensive flour mills, fellmongery establishment, etc. Connected by rail with Invercargill, and with Dunedin by a branch line to Waipahi. Hotels: Railway, Royal. Bank: New Zealand. KIHIKIHI (Waipa County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—106 miles from Auckland, and three miles from Te Awamutu Railway Station on the Auckland-Waikato line. A fine agricultural district, with good coach roads throughout, and very picturesque. The township lies close to the Aukati (or boundary) of the "King" Country, to which the defeated Maoris retired and shut themselves up for so many years after the Waikato War in 1864. The celebrated Maori Chief, Rewi, now resides at Kihikihi. Hotels: Alpha, Kihikihi. Churches: Three. Public School, Public Hall, and other buildings. KINGSTON (Lake County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A small township of a few houses, and terminus of the railway from Invercargill, to and from which there is one train thrice weekly. Fares, first class, 18s. 2d.; and second class, 12s. Id. It lies at the south end of Lake Wakatipu, in Lake County, Otago Province, eighty- seven miles north of Invercargill, and 254 from Dunedin, with which it is also connected by rail, either vid Invercargill or vid Lumsden and Gore. It stands on moraine accumulation, which at its highest point is 270 feet above the level of the lake. It is the starting point for the excellent steamers of the Lake Wakatipu S.S. Company, which run up the lake to Queenstown, Glenorchy, and Kinloch, and travellers will find very fair accommodation for the night at Lake Wakatipu Hotel. The country south of Kingston is agricultural and grazing. . Steamer fares on Lake Wakatipu: Kingston to Queenstown, saloon, 7s. 6d.; steerage, 5s. ; return, 15s. and 10s. Queenstown to Glenorchy or Kinloch, saloon, 10s.; steerage, 7s. 6d.; return, 15s. and lis. Distances, Kingston to Queenstown, twenty-five miles, steaming time, two-and-a-quarter hours; Queenstown to head of lake, thirty-three miles, steaming time, three hours. Excellent meals are served on board, 2s. 6d. each, and a steamer can be chartered (any day except Sunday) on application to Captain Wing, Queenstown, the courteous managing director, who will also furnish time tables and all other informaton. KINLOCH (Lake County, Otago Province), P-o.—A small Government township at the head of Lake Wakatipu, and on the opposite side from Glenorchy, 134 miles north of Invercargill, fifty- two from Kingston, and about 229 north-west of Dunedin. It consists TO NEW ZEALAND. of a small school and the Glacier Hotel, kept by Mr. Bryant. It stands on the shores of the lake, at the verge of what was formerly a grand stretch of forest, but which was lately maliciously burnt, greatly to the disgust of tourists and settlers. It is eminently a tourist head- quarters, and a week at least should be allowed for excursions thence. Hotel: Glacier, 10s. per day; moderately comfortable. Fine Tennis Court. Excursions.—Mount Boupland (8,102 feet) descending by Hathaway Glacier.—A climb of five miles on foot; through the forest two-and-a-half miles, and two-and-a-half on the Mica-shist. A stiffbut safe climb, giving a splendid view, embracing the mountains surrounding Te Anau Lake, Mount Creighton, and " the Remarkables "; also the ranges guarding Milford Sound. Four hours ascending, three descending; guide, £1. Edelweiss, ranunculus, and other alpine flowers, can be found on this mountain. Routeburn and Lake Harris (as described from Glenorchy). Martin's Bay.—(1) As described from Glenorchy; (2) vid Greenstone Saddle. Ride five miles down lake, and then up Greenstone River for another twelve miles. Camp at Greenstone Saddle. Next day follow down the Hollyford Valley to foot of Lake Harris Saddle and camp again, rest of route being as before mentioned. A longer route than the other, being about 100 miles. Horses can be taken to Greenstone Saddle (seventeen miles). A good week's journey there and back; prices as before. Here Lake.—This trip is usually done by boat, but horses can also be taken. Distance, eight miles from Kinloch down the lake, then three miles inland. Boat and man, £1. Horses as before. Can be done from Glenorchy. Te Anau and Manapouri— Vid Greenstone and Burwood Station. Distance about seventy miles. Horses can be taken all the way, and two days each way should be allowed for the trip. Can be done from Glenorchy. Sylvan Lake.—Can be done on horseback, by way of Maori Hillocks (vide Glenorchy, page 166). Several excursions mentioned under Glenorchy could be done from Kinloch, but we imagine the tourist will prefer to make the longer stay at Glenorchy and do them from thence. Sport, good rabbit shooting; Kaka parrots and paroquets in the forest. Ducks on Diamond and Reed Lakes, fishing there likewise. KOPUA (Waipawa County, Hawke's Bay Province).—A railway station sixty-three miles south-west of Napier, with several saw-mills in the neighbourhood. The land in the district is chiefly owned by Maoris. KUMARA (Westland County, Westland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o ; S-b.—Nineteen miles from Hokitika and fourteen from Grey- mouth, on the main road between these two places, and the centre of a gold-mining district. The town is built on a terrace about a mile from the south bank of the Teremakau River. Communication by coach with Christchurch, and by tramway with Greymouth and Hokitika. Dillmans is only about a mile from Kumara, and connected with it by a good dray road. Hotels: Stewart's, Kumara, Crown, 182 Empire, Buck's Head, Queen's, and others. Newspaper: Kumara Times. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales. Churches: Episco- palian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Hall, Library, Theatre, Hospital, and various Lodges. LAKE BRUNNER (Westland County, Westland Province).— A post town thirty-nine miles from Hokitika, on the road to Christ- church, six or seven miles from Lake Brunner, and with only small scattered quartz reefs worked in the neighbourhood. Lake Brunner is a fine sheet of water, popular for excursions. LAKE HAWEA (Lake County, Otago Province).— See Pembroke, page 201, and Part II ., page 147. LAKES, HOT (Auckland Province).—See Kotorua, page 208, and Part II., page 62. LAKES MANAPOURI, TE ANAU, HAUROTO, POTENTEN, HAKAPOUA (Lake and Fiord Counties. Otago Province).—See Lumsden, page 183, and Part II., page 148. LAKES PUKAKI, TEKAPO, OHAU.—See Part II., pages 127l8. LAKES ROTORUA, ROTOITI, ROTOMAHANA, TARAWERA. —See Rotorua, page 208, and Part II., page 62. LAKE TAUPO (Auckland Prpvince).— See Taupo, page 212, and Part II., page 71. LAKE TAKAPUNA (Auckland Province).—See Auckland, page 151, and Part II., page 45. LAKE WANAKA (Lake County, Otago Province).—One of the loveliest of New Zealand lakes.—See Pembroke, page 201, and for description, Part II , page 147. LAKE WAKATIPU (Lake County, Otago Province).—The best known of all the New Zealand lakes, possessing great attractions for the tourist. It is easy of access and surrounded by fine scenery.— See Queenstown, page 204, and for description, Part II., page 111. LAKE WAIRARAPA (Wairarapa County, Wellington Pro- vince).—On the Wairarapa Plains, near Wellington. LAWRENCE (Tuapeka County, Otago Province), P-o ; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A township about sixty miles from Dunedin, formed originally in connection with the rich alluvial gold-fields of Gabriel's Gully (or Tuapeka), and is still the centre of a large and rich field, worked chiefly by sluicing. There are several quartz reefs also being opened, andtbe district is becoming well settled by agriculturists and graziers. Coal is abundant, and copper, antimony, cinnabar, and other minerals are found. It is connected with the Dunedin-Invercargill Railway by a branch from Milton and Clarkesville. Hotels: Craig's, Commercial, Railway, etc. Newspaper: Tuapeha Times. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Public Library, Town Hall, Hospital. Masonic and various others Lodges and Societies. TO NEW ZEALAND. 183 LEESTON (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated twenty-seven miles from Christchurch, on the Southbridge Railway, in a fine agricultural district. Hotel: Springs'. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public Schools, Public Hall, and Library. Ellesmere Jockey Club. Agricultural Society, etc. LIVINGSTONE (Otago Province).—A post town on the River Marawheiiua, about twelve miles from its junction with the Waitaki. Connected by the Duntroon branch (twenty-eight miles) with the rail- way station at Oamaru, on the main line Christchurch to Dunedin. It lies about a thousand feet above the sea level, in a district at present pastoral, with a little gold mining by hydraulic sluicing. There are two Inns, the Royal and the Victoria, also a Public School, in which services are held by a Presbyterian clergyman resident in the district. LUMSDEN (also called ELBON), (Southland County, Otago Province), Railway; P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A small township fifty miles north-west of Invercargill, and thirty-seven miles south-west of Kingston, on the railway line between the two. It stands on the Oreti River, and is the junction where the Gore (for Dunedin) and Invercargill trains branch. There is daily communication with Kings- ton and Invercargill, and tri-weekly with Gore and Dunedin (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday), on which days there is also an extra train from Invercargill, and on the alternate days an extra train to Kingston. Fares: to and from Invercargill, 1st, 10s. 5d.; 2nd, 7s.; return, 1st, 13s. 7d.; 2nd, 10s. 2d.; to and from Kingston, 1st, 7s. lid.; 2nd, 5s. 4d.; return, 1st, 10s. 4d.; 2nd, 6s. lid.; to and from Gore, 1st, 7s. 9d.; 2nd, 5s. 2d.; return, 1st, 10s. Id. ; 2nd, 6s. 9d.; to and from Dunedin, 1st, 28s. 7d.; 2nd, 19s. Id.; return, 1st, 37s. 2d.; 2nd, 24s. 9d. The Elbow Hotel is comfortable, with good beds, clean, and food fair. The Railway Hotel ranks second; there are also a few good shops and stores, a School, Court-house, and Hall for entertainments. Excursions.—This is the starting point for the coach to Lakes Manapouri and Te Anau. Route.—Along the Oreti River to Centre Hjll, eighteen miles (Inn, C. Bench, proprietor), thence through the Gorge, and by the Mararoa River, which has to be crossed, once to Takitimos, thirty-six miles (Inn, R. Murrell, proprietor), thence to Manapouri, forty-six miles. When riding, seven miles up the Waiau Valley brings the tourist to Te Anau; but when driving it is better to go round by Takitimos (crossing the river again) and Lynwood Downs (sixty-two miles). This is a splendid trip if the weather is only good, and the tourist does not rnind roughing it a little; but in order to avoid any dissatisfaction or unpleasantness afterwards, he should make a definite arrangement at Takitimos for use of boat, man's time per day on Lake Manapouri, and for tent, blankets, etc., if he means to camp out. Charges.—Hotels, 8s. to 10s.; buggies, 25s. per day, with 10s. per day extra (if settled beforehand) for man's keep and horse feed; £1 per day for two men's time, and use of boat on Manapouri, £1 10s., single. Fare by coach, £2 10s., return. The tourist can take his own provisions and camp equipment if desired, buying the same at Dunedin or Invercargill, or he can hire all he 184 brett's handy guide requires from Mr. Murrell at Takitimos, who owns the boat on Manapouri. There is a steam launch on Lake Te Anau, and Mr. Henry is the guide, who owns a boat on the lake, and he is generally to be heard of at the Downs Station. Mr. Bastian also owns a boat. The following particulars for the route vid Waiau Valley, from Manapouri to Te Anau, will be necessary, unless the rider has a guide:—Leave View Hill behind, and strike off into the plain, keeping about half-a-mile distant from the bush on the left. Midway across plain turn sharply to left, and keep on till reaching a deserted station and wool-shed, then strike off along the path which skirts the Waiau River, till arriving at the end of three miles, at the ruins of some rabbiters' huts. Passing through a wire fence ride straight ahead, crossing a dry river-bed, and keep on till reaching a swamp; keep this on right hand till past it, then notice a small opening in the low ridges of tussock grass a little to the right. Ride through this and keep a straight course until emerging within view of Te Anau Lake. To Lake Wahatipit vid the Mararoa River, South Mavora Lake, and the Von River (about fifty-six miles). This charming trip can only at present be made on foot or on horse-back. Several bridle tracks lead a short distance over the country; but the only good route is for the traveller to return to Takitimos (where he can ascend Excelsior Peak if he wishes), and take the path going by Burwood, along the banks of the Mararoa River till he reaches Mr. Hodge's Station, situated near the South Mavora Lake; from thence he journeys on (generally the second day) till he reaches the northern arm of the Von River, and pursuing this he comes to Fern Hill Station, near Mount Nicholas, on the borders of the lake where the steamer between Queenstown and Glenorchy usually calls bi-weekly. Fine as this trip is it is too rough at present to be recom- mended to any one not accustomed to pretty rough riding or walking. LYELL (Buller County, Westland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situate at the junction of the Buller and Lyell Creek, thirty- eight miles from Westport, in the centre of a mining and agricultural district. Communication by coach, eighty miles, to the Foxhill Station on the Nelson Railway; thence, twenty-one miles, to Nelson. Hotels: Junction, Commercial, Empire, Welcome, Criterion. News- paper: Lyell Times. Bank: National. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic. Public School, etc. LYTTELTON (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief seaport of Canterbury, separated from Christchurch by a range of lofty hills, now pierced by the railway tunnel, which thus connects Ly ttelton with the whole of the province and island. The port is situated at the western end of Banks' Peninsula, where it abuts on the main land, and lying at the foot of lofty hills is an excellent one. The harbour is picturesque and broken up into numerous bays. The port lies about five miles from the heads. It is a busy shipping place for great quantities of wool, wheat, and other produce of the plains and hills of Canterbury. A graving dock with well-fitted machinery shop and ample wharf accommodation are provided. Ships drawing twenty-five feet of water can lie alongside brett's handy guide MANGAPAI (Whangarei County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the east coast of the peninsula, 121 miles north of Auckland City, and thirteen-and-a-half miles from Whangarei. It lies in the midst of a fine fruit-growing and picturesque district, and possesses a good many small settlers. Regular communication by steam with Auckland, and also by road. It has three Churches, Public and Private Schools. MANGAWHARE (or HOBSON). (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—118 miles north-north-west of Auckland, and a mile south of Dargaville on the opposite side of the Kaihu Creek. Large quantities of Kauri gum are gathered in the district. It possesses a branch of the Bank of New Zealand, and a good Inn. MARTIN'S BAY (Otago Province).—An open roadstead on the west coast of the South Island, having a regular mail every two months from Hokitika, and by every steamer passing it from the Bluff (Camp- belltown). The Hollyford River leads from the roadstead to Lake McKerrow, on which the settlement of Jamestown was planted. The post office is a little distance from the mouth of the Hollyford. The roadstead has deep water close up to the landing, and is sheltered from all but westerly winds, which, however, blow sometimes with great violence. There is good land on the river. The country is hilly, and gold has been found as well as indications of coal, but the district is at present much isolated, lacking a good road to connect it with Glenorchy on Lake Wakatipu. The whole of the south-west coast of the South Island suffers from the same isolation as regards development, though there can be no question that two much opening up will mar the virgin beauty of the forest scenery. A few tourists and others have reached Martin's Bay from Glenorchy and Kinloch, but it is a hazardous and expensive trip. (See Glenorchy, page 166.) MARTON (Rangitikei County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the Wanganui and Foxton Railway, 133 miles from Wellington, with which it is in daily communication, and thirty- three miles south-east from Wanganui. The district is fertile and thriving, and the town itself very pretty. Hotels : White Hart, Marton, Club, Railway, Temperance. Newspaper: Rangitikei Advocate. Banks: New Zealand, Australasia. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Lutheran. Public and Private Schools, Oddfellows' Hall, Temperance Hall, and several Societies. MASTERTON (Wairarapa County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the main road, Wellington to Napier, situ- ated in a large plain, seventy-one miles north-east of Wellington, and connected with it by railway. Kurupuni is a suburb of Masterton, and has also a railway station (flag). Masterton is the chief town in the Wairarapa, has a meat preserving establishment, fellmongery, flour mills, and timber factories and similar industries. The public park is thirty acres, and there are a jockey club, a coursing club, and numerous societies and lodges. Also breeding ponds for trout, salmon, and other imported fish. Hotels: Occidental, Club, Empire, and others. News- papers: Wairarapa Guardian, Daily and Weekly Evening Star. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales, Australasia. Churches: Episcopalian, TO NEW ZEALAND. Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools. Foresters' Hall, Temperance Hall, Theatre, Hospital. Library and Reading Room, etc. Excursions.—To Castle Point by coach, celebrated for its lime- stone caves and beach. MATAURA (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o ; T-o; M-o ; S-b.—Thirty-three miles from Invercargill, on railway line to Kingston. The town is on the Mataura River, and near the falls, which provide power for a large paper mill, flour mills, etc. Steam is also used in the mills, and two coal pits are being worked in the neighbourhood. Inns: Mataura, Bridge. Newspaper: Southern Free Press. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian. Wesleyan services are held by visiting clergymen. Public School. MAURICEVILLE (Wairarapa County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Thirteen miles- from Masterton, and eighty- three miles from Wellington, with which it is connected by the railway. Population of the district immediately around is chiefly Scandinavian, who formed a special settlement. There are an Hotel, a Church, and a Public School in the town. MEANEE (Hawke's Bay Province).—A post town on the Tutaekuri River, five miles from Napier, with which it is connected by coach. It has an Hotel, a Public School, Private School, and Roman Catholic Church, and makes a pleasant drive from Napier. MERCER (Waikato County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Forty-three miles south of Auckland, at the point where the railway first strikes the Waikato River. There are two saw-mills, flax mills, and coal mines near the town. The district is in the neighbourhood of many of the stirring scenes of the Waikato War. The town was then known as Point Russell, but was re-named after Captain Mercer, R.A., who fell in the attack on the Rangiriri Pah. A favourite resort for wild duck shooting, and also well known for its whitebait. There are two Hotels: Point Russell and Railway; an English Church, and a Public School. The town has gone back since the extension of the railway, which superseded the former traffic up the river.- About Easter time annually it is the scene of some Maori sports, canoe races, etc., organised by Mr. Porter, of the Point Russell Hotel. METHVEN (Ashburton County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A railway station on the Rakaia and Ashburton Forks line, fifty-seven miles south-west of Christchurch. Has two Hotels and a Boarding House, a Public School, Public Library, etc. MILTON (or TOKOMAIRIRO), (Bruce County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A clean pleasant little place thirty- six miles south-west of Dunedin, on the Tokomairiro Plains, and on the railway line Dunedin to Invercargill. There are several coal mines and extensive lime kilns in the vicinity. The town has large pottery works, oatmeal and flour mills, cheese, and several other factories. Hotels: Commercial, White Horse, Milton, Royal. News- paper: Bruce Herald. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: i88 brett's handy guide Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, Library and Reading Room, etc. MOKIHINUI (Buller County, Nelson Province).—Situated twenty-five miles north of Westport, and the centre of scattered gold- diggings on the Mokihinui River. It stands in very rough country, and though formerly populous has now but few inhabitants, the alluvial gold having been worked out, and no good reefs yet discovered. MONGONUI (or MAUNGONUI), (Mongonul County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situate in the Northern Peninsula, 184 miles from Auckland; is a good harbour on an arm of Doubtless Bay, one of the first places visited by Europeans, and in which Cook, on his first visit to it, only anticipated the French ship of De Surville by eight days. The land in the neighbourhood is poor, but several fine valleys (the Oruru, Victoria, etc ) lie inland between it and the Hokianga. Communication by steamer with Auckland. There is a capital Hotel (Mongonui), a Church (Episcopalian), Public School, etc. It lies in the regular route of the Northern S.S. boats on the east coast, north of Auckland, and can be combined in the northern tour. Auckland back to Auckland vid Hokianga, Horeke, Kawakawa, Opua, Russell, and Whangaroa. Excursion.—Nice drive to Oruru, five miles. MORRINSVILLE (Piako County. Auckland Province), P-o; Tel-o.—108 miles south-east of Auckland, on the line Hamilton to Te Aroha, and the point of junction for the railway to Te Aroha and Rotorua, which latter portion is only partly completed. It has two Hotels, Workshops, etc. MOSGIEL (Taieri County, Otago Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—Situate on the Silverstream, ten miles south of Dunedin, with which it is connected by rail. The district around is one of the most fertile in New Zealand, but the town is chiefly noted for its fine woollen factory and the splendid quality of the factories' work which took first prize at the Melbourne Exhibition. Hotels: Railway, Vanini's, Com- mercial. Newspaper: Taieri Advocate. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Library, etc. MOTUEKA (Waimea County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the banks of the Motueka, thirty-six miles north-west from Nelson by land, and only fourteen miles by sea. Communication with Nelson by coach vid Richmond, and by steamer direct. Country in the neighbourhood level, fertile, and well cultivated. Hotels: Motueka, Swan, Sportman's Arms. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan. Public School, Public Library, Orphan Asylum, etc. MOUNT ALBERT (Auckland Province).—Seven miles from the City of Auckland, on the Helensville Railway, and is practically a suburb, some parts of it being only three miles in a direct line from the City. The soil is volcanic and fertile, but in some parts stoney. Mount Albert, from which the township is named, is an old volcanic cone. Has Episcopalian and Wesleyan Churches, a Public School, and Public Hall. TO NEW ZEALAND. l8g MOUNT EDEN.—See Auckland. MOUNT BENGER.—See Teviot. MOUNT CRIFFEL.—See Criffel. MOUNT IDA.—See Naseby. MOUNT ROSKELL.—A suburb of Auckland, taking its name, like Mount Albert, from a volcanic cone. There is a good view from the summit, but not equal to that from Mount Eden. MOUNT COOK.—The highest mountain in New Zealand (vide Aorangi, Hermitage, and Southern Alps). Excursions.—Very numerous. The principal ones are set forth under " Hermitage," which see. NAPIER (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief city of the provincial district, built on a high peninsula, originally known as Scinde Island, jutting into an open roadstead, into which a breakwater is now being run out from one of the points. It was called after Sir Edward Hawke by Cook, who sighted it October 12th, 1769. The anchorage is good and the roadstead sheltered from all but easterly gales. The town is built on a succession of rounded hills and in the intervening valley. Its shipping centres at the point of the peninsula known as the Spit and formerly called Port Ahuriri. Inside the Spit there is a fine basin for vessels of moderate size, formed in the estuary of the Rivers Esk and Tutaekuri, to which access is obtained by a channel enclosed within a long groyne running into the bay. The estuary is known, from its shape, as the Iron Pot. Napier is connected with Wellington by rail to Woodville, ninety-seven miles, thence south by coach, forty-one miles, to the Mangamahoe Station. Thence again by rail on the Eastern line, over the Remutaka, eighty- five miles, to Wellington; or from Woodville by coach through the grand scenery of the Manawatu Gorge to Palmerston, and thence by the Manawatu Company's Western line to Wellington. The district of Hawke's Bay is largely of a limestone formation, and one of the best agricultural and pastoral countries in New Zealand. There are many extensive meat-preserving and other factories in connection with these industries, but Napier itself is the commercial centre, and has few factories of any consequence in the town. It is a Diocesan city, the residence of the Bishop of Waiupu, and has many fine buildings and private residences; also an excellent Club. Hotels: Masonic, Criterion, Clarendon, and others. Newspapers: Hawke's Bay Herald, Telegraph, Courier, News, Monthly Church Herald, and the Trade Printing Journal, "Typo." Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, Union, New South Wales, Australasia. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Free Methodist, Presbyterian. Public and Private Schools, Library, Philosophical Institute. Clubs: Hawke's Bay, Clarendon, both resident. Public Hall, various Lodges and Societies, Hospital, Theatre, Museum, Hawke's Bay Club. Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son have an agent there (Mr. Montague Lascelles), also the Union S.S. Company. Excursions.—Surrounded by some of the finest country in the North Island, Napier is more of a genuine show place for its flocks, wool and produce generally, than for its scenery. There are, brett"s handy guide however, several pleasant walks or drives round about, such as to the Botanical Gardens, the summit of Scinde Island, on which the chief residences are built, and along the Shakespeare road. Petane.—Seven miles northwards, makes a pleasant outing. Taradale.—An excursion can be made thither, and a good idea gained of the quality of the land in this province. Cape Kidnappers.—Seven miles to the southward, celebrated as com- memorating the theft of the Tahitian boy, Taiyota, by Maoris; is often visited on horseback. In the Wairoa district, situated in Hawke's Bay Province, there are several attractions for tourists. NASEBY (Maniototo County,Otago Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—Formerly known as Mount Ida and Hogburn, after the names of the mountain and stream in its neighbourhood respectively. Situated eighty-nine miles north-west of Dunedin, connected by coach with the Dunback Station (thirty-nine miles), and thence fifty miles by rail vid Palmerston to Dunedin in one direction; and by coach with Cromwell, Queenstown, or Lawrence in the other. Coal is found in small quantity in the district, which is mining and pastoral. Mount Ida is 5,000 feet high. Hotels: Royal, Victoria, Empire, Criterion. Newspaper: Mount Ida Chronicle. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Hall, Library, Hospital, Masonic Hall, etc. NELSON (Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief city of the Province, lying at the head of the picturesque harbour of Blind Bay, surrounded by lofty hills, with a small stream (the Matai) running through the town. The district is extensive and chiefly pastoral, but there are several agricultural settlements around Nelson, which is also known for the splendid hops and fruit grown in the district. The Bishop of Nelson has his residence in the city, and the suburb of Richmond (about eight miles to the south-west) is very pretty, pleasantly situated and populous. There are two breweries and jam factories, also leather, soap, and other industrial works. Hotels: Masonic, Trafalgar, Commercial, and others. Newspapers: Colonist, Evening Mail, Weekly News. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, Union, New South Wales. Churches. Public and Private Schools, College, Theatre, Public Hall, Hospital, Museum, Library, Lunatic Asylum, Roman Catholic Orphanage, Masonic Hall, and various Lodges and Societies. Club: Nelson, non-resident. Excursions.—There are numerous pleasant excursions round Nelson, consisting of rambles, walks, drives, and rides. The Rocks make a pleasant stroll. Follow the Haven road, past the Marine Baths, Naval Brigade Head-quarters and Pilot Station, to mouth of harbour. The Botanical Hill or Zigzag.—A hill to the east of the city, 470 feet in height,—above the Botanical Reserve; view from it includes the Kaka Hill (1,472 feet), Maungatapu Range (4,000 feet), Jenkin's Hill (2,539 feet), Eclipse Hill (1,200 feet), Fringed Hill (2,580 feet), and the Port Hills (490 feet). Port Hills.—There are two ways of reaching these, the shorter route, taking about an hour there and back, is met Washington Valley, and keeping to the west of the hill so as to reach the TO NEW ZEALAND. igi flagstaff; the other way, taking two-and-a-half hours, is vid Wash- ington Valley, and then to the left, keeping along the back of the ridge, and there are splended views along it,—southwards to Mount Owen and Murchison, south-west to the Mount Arthur Range, and west to Mount Arthur itself, and many others. Descend either to the Bishopdale main road, or Stoke. Bishopdale Hills.—Time, three hours, vid the Waimea road. Reservoir.—A good walk or drive vid Nile Street and Brook Street Valley. Maitai River.—Time, from one-and-three-quarter hours to ten or twelve. There is a carriage road for three miles, and bridle track about nine miles, afterwards it is a matter of guesswork. Beckman's Gully is a famous spot for fern collectors. Clifton Terrace and Whahapuaha.—Nine miles each way, on a good level road. A pleasant walk at full tide. The Lighthouse.—Get a boat from the Pilot Station, and sail over; a good view of Nelson can be obtained thence. The following make pleasant driving excursions :— Richmond.— Vid Stoke, sixteen miles each way. Wairoa Gorge.—Vid Spring Grove, then to the left; sixteen-and-a- half miles each way. The Three Bridges and Appleby.—Fifteen-and-a-half miles each way. Machay's Bluff.—Nine miles each way. Spooner's Range.—Time about eight hours ; some ten miles beyond Belgrove. German Village, Moutere Hills, and back, thirty-two miles. A capital day's outing. Poor Man's Valley (twelve miles), Happy Valley (nineteen miles), Rae Road (to the summit of the Saddle, nineteen miles), Beckman's Gully (ten miles), Aniseed Valley (eighteen miles), make capital riding excursions, and are popular. NEWMARKET (Eden County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A suburb of Auckland, two miles from the post office, on the old South Road, and a station on the Auckland-Waikato Railway. Newmarket is built at the foot of Mount Eden, between Epsom and Remuera. The Government railway shops are built close to the station. Has a Mayor and Council, and although in itself mainly consisting of shops, the country in the neighbourhood is very beautiful and fertile. Several roads branch from the township. The Auckland Savings' Bank has a branch, and there are several factories and excellent large breweries in the vicinity. Hotels: Captain Cook, Jubilee, Newmarket, Junction. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public and Private Schools, Hall, Reading Room, etc. NEW PLYMOUTH (Taranaki Province),P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.— The chief city of the province and the scene of our greatest difficulties with the Maoris for a long period in the early days, but now populous and the centre of a beautiful fertile and well-cultivated district; con- nected with Auckland by steamer direct to Onehunga, or by rail to the Waitara, and thence by steamer to the same place; connected with Wellington by rail or steamer. The roadstead is open, and a break- water has been for some time in course of construction. Taranaki 192 brett's handy guide has been the scene of many severe fights between Maori tribes in the olden days, and between Maori and Pakeha in more modern times. The district is agricultural, dairying, and grazing, and there are several flour mills, cheese factories, and other factories directly connected with agricultural and pastoral industries. To the north the railway extends to Waitara, to the south it extends along the west coast to the end of the Government line at Longburn, and connects thereat with the Manawatu Company's line to Wellington. The line through the Manawatu Gorge, when completed, will connect New Plymouth with the Government East Coast line from Napier to Wellington. At present this portion is done by coach, seventeen miles. Hotels: White Hart, Criterion. Newspapers: Taranaki Herald, News, Budget. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopal, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Primitive Metho- dists, Baptists. Public and Private Schools, Hospitals, Public Hall, Library, Freemason's Hall, Lodges of various kinds, and other Societies. Excursions.—Mount Egmont.—There are three routes used by tourists in the ascents of Mount Egmont. That most patronised on account of its facilities is from New Plymouth by way of the Egmont Road. Travelling from the town by the Junction Road, the first nine miles is a good gravelled road, the next five and three quarter miles up the Egmont Road is formed, and fit for buggy traffic, this reaches to within six miles of the summit. From this point there is a good horse-track up a gradual and easy incline for three-and-a-half miles to a small clearing in the scrub, known as the camping ground, 3,250 feet above sea level. This can comfortably be reached in five hours from New Plymouth. It is usual to start about noon, so as to reach the camping ground in time to make things snug for the night, and then to commence the ascent of the cone, which takes from three to four hours, early the next morning, returning to New Plymouth or Inglewood, as the case may be, the same day. Another route is from New Plymouth by way of the Manaorei Road. This is a pleasant journey for those who can afford the time, and do not mind a little hard travelling. It takes four days to do it properly. There are numerous points of interest, and fine views to be obtained, as the foot-track passes over the Pouakai Ranges, 4,000 feet above the sea. "Bell's Falls," a fine waterfall a short distance from the track, should be visited. The undertaking is far more arduous than the Egmont route, as so much more has to be travelled on foot over a rough track with swags, whereas by the latter the horses take the loads. The third route is from Manaia on the Waimate Plains, nine miles distant from the railway line at Hawera. From the former place a buggy road is .available for twelve miles; from that point there is a horse-track for eight miles to the camping ground at the foot of the cone, near a picturesque waterfall on the Kapuni, known as "Dawson's Fall." The journey to this place can be done in four hours, and the summit reached in another five or six hours. Overland to Auckland.—The overland journey to Auckland is an enjoyable one. The best way is to ride to Mokau the first day, engage a canoe with natives, and take two days' journey up the river as far as Totoro; from here by a ride of six hours through open country, Te TO NEW ZEALAND. Kuiti is reached, whence the train can be taken to Auckland. The canoe travelling can be avoided by taking the native horse-track up the Mohakatino; but it is such a rough one that none but natives with native horses ever attempt it. The rivers are bridged as far as Pukearuhe, after that they are all fordable. NEWTON.—A popular suburb of Auckland, about two miles from the post office. It possesses a Mayor and Council. NGAPARA (Waitaki County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Seventeen miles from Oamaru, and connected with it by a branch railway. Coal pits are worked in the neighbourhood. There are two Inns, a Public School and Library. Services are held by visiting clergymen of various Churches. NGARUAWAHIA (Waipa County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated at the confluence of the Waikato and Waipa Rivers. It was the residence of the first Maori King, and was taken during the war of 1864. It has since been the centre of steam traffic on the rivers in connection with the settlements then made in the Waikato and on the Waipa. The first king, "Potatau," was buried here. The extension of the railway deprived Ngaruawahia of much of its trade. From the vicinity of the coal mines it was officially called Newcastle, but the Maori name is still used. The distance from Auckland by rail is seventy-four miles. This place was evacuated by the Maoris in December, 1864, after their defeat at Rangiriri, and immediately occupied by General Cameron as his head- quarters for further operations. The country above Ngaruawahia, spreading out in fan shape between the Waipa and Waikato, is known as the Delta. Hotels: Delta, Waipa. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public School and Library. NGAURUAHOE (7,376 feet).—The third highest mountain in the North Island, known as the "Smoking Mountain." It is often called Tongariro in error, the mountain of that name being flat and much lower, adjoining it and quite free from volcanic activity. NORMANBY (Taranaki Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— A town on the railway line from New Plymouth to Wellington, forty- five miles from New Plymouth, in a fine fertile district. Has two Inns, a Public School, and a branch of the Bank of New Zealand. NORSEWOOD (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; Tel-o—Sixty- four miles from Napier, five miles from the railway station at Kopua, and four miles from the station at Ormondville, on the line Napier to Wellington. The coach road to Wellington runs through Norsewood, on each side of which it was built. The settlement is Norwegian, and the district heavily timbered. Small farms and saw-mills are its character- istics, and fungus is gathered for export to China. There are Lutheran and Wesleyan Churches, a Public School, Reading Room, Library, Rechabite and Good Templar Lodges, etc. It was almost totally destroyed by fire in 1888, and public subscriptions were solicited for the relief of the settlers, and heartily responded to. N 194 bkett's handy guide OAMARU (Waitaki County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The next town in importance to Dunedin in the Otago Province, and distant from Dunedin seventy-eight miles on the line to Christchurch. The harbour is sheltered by a breakwater. The district is one of the finest in the Colony, its formation being chiefly limestone. The land is of first-rate agricultural and pastoral quality. The town is built of the beautiful white limestone for which Oamaru is well known, and which is a favourite building material throughout the Colony. It is a shipping port of considerable importance, and is pro- vided with every facility for loading and unloading. The meat-freezing works are extensive, and the grain stores, many fitted with American elevators, are on a large scale. The Oamaru wheat generally com- mands top market prices, and there are several flour mills and breweries, a fine woollen factory, fellmongeries, and other industries. Branch railway lines run up the valley of the Waiareka to Waiareka Junction, when one branch extends past Elderslie to Ngapara, and the other up the valley of the Waitaki to Hakateramea. Hotels: Star and Garter, Queen's, White Hart, and others. Newspapers: Evening Mail, North Otago Times. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, Union, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Congre- gational, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Primitive Methodists. Public and Private Schools, Library, Town Hall, Benevolent Institution, Hospital, Masonic Hall, numerous Lodges and Societies. There are some very fine estates in the neighbourhood of Oamaru, notably those of Mr. John Reid's "Elderslie," on the branch line to Ngapara, Mr. Menlove's "Windsor Park," and Mr. Olliver's. Mr. Reid's is the show-place of the district. He has 40,000 acres freehold, with 7,000 under the plough, and averages about 1,000 bales of wool from his sheep annually. Mr. Menlove has 14,000 acres under cultivation, and Mr. Olliver about 4,500. The land will average forty-three bushels of wheat to the acre. The land is wonderfully rich. OCEAN BEACH (Southland County, Otago Province). —A railway station and seaside resort, sixteen miles from Invercar- gill. OHAEWAI (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b—A native village on the coach road about half-way between Russell and Hokianga, 115 miles from Auckland by land, and 146 by sea, and the centre of a fine volcanic district largely owned, and occupied by the Maoris. It is celebrated as the scene of a fierce struggle with the Maoris in 1845, when a hundred of our soldiers were killed or wounded, in an attack made upon the Ohaewai Pah during Heke's War (see Part I., and Coach Routes, Part II.). There are two inns (European) for visitors to the Hot Springs in the district, which has many other attractions. The Maoris chiefly depend on the Kauri gum, collected in the district or near it. They do but little in the way of cultivation, living mainly on the "glorious" past; they have, however, a goodly number of horses and cattle. There are a Public School (Maori) and a Maori Church (Episcopalian) at Ohaewai. In the churchyard is a monument gracefully erected by the Maoris in honour of our troops who fell in the attack on their pah in 1845. TO NEW ZEALAND. 195 OHAUPO (WaipaCounty, Auckland Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—Seven miles beyond Hamilton on the Auckland-Waikato line, and about the same distance from Cambridge. Has central stock-yards, in which the sales are held for the surrounding district. There are two Churches, Episcopalian and Roman Catholic, and a Public School. OHINEMUTU (Tauranga County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—This township, called Rotorua in the Postal Directory, is built on the shores of the Lake Rotorua, within easy reach of all the natural wonders of the Rotorua and adjoining lakes, which are fully described elsewhere. A large and handsome Maori Runanga (or meeting) House, with all the characteristic and grotesque carvings, is one of the attractions of Ohinemutu. Bath houses connected with the various sulphur and mineral springs, and a fine roomy Hospital or Sanatorium, have been put up by Government. Every arrangement is made for the comfort and convenience of invalids or visitors. There is communication by rail from Auckland as far as Oxford, thence by coach road running partly through the primeval forest to Ohinemutu, also by steamer to Tauranga, and thence back forty miles by a coach road, which passes through the " Oropi bush," and some picturesque mountain scenery. There is a considerable number of natives in the neighbourhood, and a Government School, which is largely attended by their children. Ohinemutu has three hotels, the Palace, of which Joseph Macrae, the hero of the eruption, is the proprietor; Lake House overlooking the lake, kept by Mrs. Graham; and Mrs. Morrison's snug little Rotorua Hotel. Brent's Temperance Boarding House is in the Government township of Rotorua, and is convenient for people taking the sanatorium baths. Excursions.—There are several excursions in the vicinity, which will be found discribed among the scenic resorts of the North Island under Rotorua (see Part II.). The most important are the following :— Wai-o-tapu Valley, about twenty miles from Ohinemutu. One whole day required. Drive to Bungalow (ascending slopes of Pareheru en route to see the view over the district, destroyed by the eruption of Tarawera, June, 1886); take guide (imperative) and horses down the valley; see boiling pools, mud pools, volcanoes, teapots, green, blue and multi-coloured miniature lakes, the multi-coloured hill, Maunga- kakaramea, sulphur fumaroles, alum cliffs, incipient terraces, etc., etc. A highly interesting trip. Tarawera Lake and Mountain vid Wairoa, about ten miles by land to Wairoa, then by boat across Lake Tarawera. One long whole day required if Tarawera is to be ascended, and the craters seen. Although Nature is fast covering up her work of desolation, Wairoa presents still a picture of absolute destruction. What was formerly a fine coach road, is now, in many parts, a deep water channel, and the ten- mile ride each way is over rough ground, perfectly safe but uneven. The sites of the village of Arike, and the pink and white terraces, are pointed out by the guide (who must be taken to control Maori crew). The ascent of Tarawera well repays the toil. The view is fine, and the actual craters which did the mischief can be inspected. An excursion of appalling interest. ig6 brett's handy guide The Lakes Trip.—Can be done in three days, but is better done in five. It includes Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, and Rotoma. Camping out requisites, provisions, boats, etc., for a party of four, costs about £1 each per day. Good shooting. Mokoia Island.—A pleasant sail when the wind is moderate. The island lies in the centre of Lake Rotorua. See Hinemoa's bath, the tapu skeleton in the Tawa tree, the coronation stone. In Maori legend, Hinemoa, swimming from Owhata near the old mission station of Te Ngae, landed on the island to meet her lover. It has also been the scene of some of Hongi's slaughterous and cannibalistic achievements. Ordinary time from three-quarters to an hour each way. Te Ngae, Tikitere and Whaharewarewa.—It is best, instead of making this a separate trip, to have vehicle sent round to Te Ngae and sail thither from Mokoia Island, a pleasant half hour's spell. From Te Ngae the vehicle is taken to Tikitere, celebrated for its wonderful boiling pools (excellent for chronic rheumatism), whence a short walk leads to Lake Rotoiti. On the homeward drive Whakarewarewa is visited. There are fine new baths here and a comfortable hotel, a Maori village, boiling springs, terrace formations and geysers. This makes a pleasantly diversified trip. Sodom, Gomorrah, Bainbridge's Grave, Sulphur Point, and other minor excursions, can be made in half a day, or can be visited when returning from Whakarewarewa. The Sanatorium, now being rebuilt after the late fire, is a highly useful institution, and should attract invalids from far and near. OHIWA (Auckland Province).—A small settlement on the Ohiwa side of the Opotiki Harbour, with broad entrance and well sheltered. Accessible for vessels drawing eighteen feet, and of much greater depth inside the bar. Ohiwa is -203 miles by sea from Auck- land, and lies between Whakatane and Opotiki, on the East Coast of the North Island. OMAHA (Auckland Province).—A post town fifty-eight miles north of the City of Auckland, with which it is connected by steamer. Has a Public School, and is the centre of a farming and fruit-growing district. ONEHUNGA (Eden County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b —Originally a settlement of the New Zealand Fencibles, a body of military pensioners located in early times at different posi- tions round Auckland for its protection from Maori attack. Onehunga was the most important of these settlements; it is situate on the shores of the Manukau Harbour, and connected with Auckland by rail and road, and seven miles distant therefrom across the narrow isthmus from which extends the long peninsula (140 miles) from Auckland to the North Cape. The road from Auckland to Onehunga is through one of the prettiest districts in the Colony, and omnibuses run constantly. Ironworks have been established at Onehunga to deal with the rich iron sands on the beaches in the Manukau Harbour, and it possesses also a fine woollen factory, saw-mills, tannery, and iron foundries. The water supply is excellent, and access to coal easy. Factories are likely to increase. The town, from the nature of the original settlement, covers an extensive area, each pensioner 198 brett's handy guide ORMONDVILLE (Waipawa County, Hawke's Bay Province), P-o ; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Sixty-five miles from Napier on the railway to Wellington, in the Seventy-mile Bush. The River Mangarangiora flows near the town, and the River Manawatu within two miles. The country is somewhat rough and broken, but there are several saw-mills at work, and agriculture is carried on to 'a certain extent. Founded only in 1877. It has an Inn. Churches: Episcopal, United Methodist, Free Church, Roman Catholic. Public School, Oddfellows' and other Lodges. OTAHUHU (Manukau County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Originally a pensioner settlement on the Main South road, and the centre of a fine agricultural district, nine miles from Auckland, with which it is now connected by railway. A pretty town- ship, lying amid very picturesque scenery, and situated on the narrowest part of the Auckland Isthmus, which is here little more than half a mile wide. In olden times Otahuhu was a portage, across which the Ngapuhi natives from the Bay of Islands dragged their canoes into the Manukau, and thence up that harbour to the Awaroa River, where another short portage gave access to the Waikato River, and enabled them to invade that district. It possesses extensive meat- freezing works, soap and candle, implement, and other factories, fell- mongery and tannery, artificial manure works, etc., in the town or vicinity. Sylvia Park, the well-known farm of the New Zealand Stud Company, where so many of Old Musket's progeny were bred, is close to the township. Hotels: Criterion, Star, Temperance. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Baptist. Salvation Army Barracks, Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, Library and Reading Room, Temperance Hall, various Lodges. OTAKI (Manawatu County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The oldest mission station in the southern part of the North Island, and formerly known for the beauty of the church built by the Maoris for the use of the mission. It is situated one mile north of the Otaki River, and forty-seven miles north of Wellington, with which it is connected by the railway line of the Manawatu Company. Hotels: Ferry, Telegraph. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic. Public School and Mission Schools, Public Hall, etc. OTAUTAU (Wallace County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Thirty miles north-west of Invercargill and connected with it by railway (Riverton-Nightcaps Branch). Hotels: Otautau, Com- mercial, Railway, Crown. Public School, Public Hall, etc. OTEPOPO (or HERBERT),(Waitaki County,Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Sixty-five mles by rail from Dunedin, on the line to Christchurch, and one-and-a-half miles from the Otepopo River. Coal is found in the district, and the Otago Slate Quarries lie about ten miles distant from it. Hotels: Royal, Railway, Imperial. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian. Public School, Library and Reading Room, etc. OTIRA GORGE —One of the finest gorges in New Zealand. On the coach route, Springfield to Hokitika, and Kumara (vide Part IIb., Coach Routes). Hotel: Otira. TO NEW ZEALAND. I99 OUTRAM (Taieri County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Twenty miles south-west of Dunedin, and connected with it by branch line of railway from Mosgiel. Very fine farming district, bordered by hills, some of them 3,000 feet high. Hotels: Outram, West Taieri, Terminus, etc. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Presbyterian, Episcopalian. Public School, Library, etc. OXFORD (Ashley County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the River Eyre, in an agricultural and timber district, forty-two miles north-west of Christchurch, on the branch line from Kaiapoi. Hotels: Commercial, Terminus, Oxford, and others. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopal, United Methodist, Presbyterian, and Roman Catholic; visiting clergymen hold their services in the Town Hall. Public and Private Schools. Town Hall, Oddfellows' Hall, Library, Horticulturists' and other Societies. PAHAUTANUI (Hutt County, Wellington Province).—Lies nineteen miles and-a-half from Wellington, with communication by coast, or by way of Porirua on the Wellington Manawatu Railway line near Porirua Bay, where Rauparaha was seized in 1846, and at the foot of a cliff on which at that time stood the pah of Rauparaha's celebrated fighting ally Rangihaeata, the chief actor in the Wairau massacre. Rangihaeata was driven from this pah into the mountains in the native war of that year. Pahautanui has now a Public School, a Church, and an Inn. PAHIATUA (Wairarapa County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is situated north-east of Wellington, 114 miles, between Woodville and Eketahuna, on the main road to Mangamatire and Masterton, in the midst of a fine forest and agricultural country. The railway from Wellington extends as far as Eketahuna. Pahiatua is a new township with a Temperance Hotel, Public School, and Church. Has also a newspaper, The Pahiatua Star. PALMERSTON (Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— Forty-one miles north from Dunedin on the railway line to Oamaru, at the junction of the main north and Dunstan coach roads at the opening of the Shag Valley. The coal mines at Shag Point are only six miles distant from Palmerston, and the valley contains a large extent of fertile country. Hotels: Empire, Palmerston, Waverley, Royal. Newspaper: Palmerston and Waikouaiti Times. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public Schools, Library, Town Hall, Masonic Club, Race Club, various Lodges, etc. PALMERSTON, NORTH (Manawatu County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—101 miles north from Wellington, on the railway to New Plymouth, within eight miles of the Manawatu Gorge, and surrounded by a fine timber country with very rich soil. A well laid out town, with broad streets and a fine square in its centre; saw-mills, sash and door factory, etc., etc. Hotels: Commercial, Club, Royal, Princess, Clarendon. Newspapers: Manawatu Times, Standard. Banks: New Zealand, Union, Australasia. Churches: 200 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Lutheran. Public Schools, Masonic Hall, Theatre, Racecourse, etc., etc. PANMURE (Auckland Province), P-o; Tel-o—Is situate nine miles from Auckland City, on the west bank of the Tamaki River, and was originally one of the pensioner settlements. It has a large tannery. Communication by rail to Ellerslie Station, five miles; also by omni- bus from Auckland. Hotel: Duke of Edinburgh. An Episcopalian and a Roman Catholic Church. Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, etc. PAPAKURA (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A railway station, twenty miles from Auckland (about fifteen in a direct line). It has two hotels, and a few stores. There is good shoot- ing in the Hunui Ranges near the village, and some fine scenery, also trees, ferns, etc. PARNELL (Auckland Province), P-o; Tel-o.—A suburb of Auckland City, adjoining it on the eastern side, and in constant com- munication therewith by omnibus. Parnell is bordered by the Domain - at the back, and the Waitemata Harbour in front, with several pretty bays at the foot of the hill, and slopes on which it is built. It is one of the oldest suburbs, being contemporary with the City. It is full of memories of Bishop Selwyn, Bishop Patteson, Sir William Martin, and other early New Zealand notabilities. It still remains the residence of the Bishop of Auckland, and has a large and excellent Maori School. This was founded by Bishop Selwyn, and conducted for several years by his coadjutor, Bishop Patteson, as a Melanesian as well as Maori school, before the transfer of the Melanesian Mission to Norfolk Island. Churches of all denominations are to be found there, including the Pro-Cathedral, St. Mary's, a Town Hall, Bishop's Library (founded by Bishop Selwyn), and a Roman Catholic Convent, a fine Orphanage under the supervision of the Church of England, and other Benevolent Institutions. There are many good private residences, commanding views of great extent and beauty. Parnell, though a suburb of Auck- land, has its own Municipal Government. PATEA (or CARLYLE) (Patea County, Taranaki Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Situated in the centre of a fine and fertile district, sixty-six miles to the south-east of New Plymouth by railway. Situated on the northern bank of the Patea River, navigable for good- sized steamers to within a mile of the town. Hotels: Albion, Central, Masonic, Patea. Newspaper: Patea Mail. Banks: New Zealand, Australasia, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public and Private School, Hospital, Library, Market House, etc. PATERSON'S INLET (Stewart's Island).—On the south side of Foveaux Strait, about twenty miles from the Bluff, Campbelltown, with which there is weekly mail communication. Population chiefly Maori and half castes, engaged in oyster taking, fishing, and sealing. There are several excellent harbours in the inlet, and tin has lately been discovered in Stewart's Island, which is also well clothed with forest trees, giving an excellent class of timber which was formerly used 202 brett's handy guide Driftwood Bay.—Opposite Snug Bay, about three-and-a-half hours from Pembroke. Disembark and climb up the neck for the view of Lake Hawea. From Prospect Rocks both lakes can be seen. Excursions —(2) By water and land :— Maharora Valley.—A fertile valley at the head of the lake, distant from Pembroke thirty-five miles by steamer, but more by land as the bridle track winds considerably. Otetenui or Wilkin Valley.—To head of lake, thence on horse- back or on foot up the Makarora Valley for four miles, turning to the left up the Wilkin Valley, closed in by Castor and Pollua Peaks. A grand scenic display. Mount St. Bernard.— To Makarora as before described, and six miles up the valley to Mr. Symon's Station. Then ascend spur of the McKerrow Range at the rear of farm buildings, and pass by the foot of Symon's Crags to summit, a seven hours' climb. Symon's Crags and view of Mount Aspiring.—Follow directions as for Mount St. Bernard, and when about 5,500 feet up, the snowy cone of Mount Aspiring (9,940) will come into sight, being in full view as you reach the saddle. From the foot of crags to the summit entails some scrambling, but it is not difficult. Mount Alba.—This beautiful peak does not appear to have tempted many mountaineers to the climb, accommodation being but scanty in the vicinity; but it would well repay the exertion. The route lies up the Makarora Valley, some twelve miles past the township, to a station building, where the tourist would stop the night, and start for the summit in the morning. Take plenty of provisions, as they may be scarce on the road. Hawea Neck and Prospect Rocks.—By steamer to Driftwood Bay as previously mentioned, then mount the fern slope by the zigzag path. After about a quarter of a mile you reach a gate with a small swamp on the left, going round the swamp you can follow a track along the right bank of Waterloo Gully, which will bring you into view of Lake Hawea. To get a view of both lakes simultaneously it is advisable to go through the gate above mentioned, and keep to the left along a more beaten track, passing a second swamp, and just when coming within view of a third, leave the beaten track and strike straight up the hill to the top of Prospect Rocks, whence a splendid view including both lakes can be obtained. By following the beaten track which continues round the base of the spur, you reach Lake Dainty and Lake Wanaka. This is a much recommended trip, and occupies from one to two hours, according to which route is taken. The two latter are decidedly longer than the former; but the view from Prospect Rocks amply repays the tourist for the additional time and exertion. PENROSE (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o—Only six miles from Auckland and a railway station on the line to Waikato and junction for the line to Onehunga. There is a large wool scouring establishment in the neighbourhood, and the Stud Company's farm of Sylvia Park, with its splendid breed of racehorses and thoroughbred stock is within easy reach. It was the site of a large camp during the Waikato War, and part of a well-known farm. The volcanic portion, 204 brett's handy guide PORT ALBERT (Rodney County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Lies about sixty miles from Auckland on the Oruawharo branch of the Great Wairoa (north) river. It is a special settlement of Nonconformists, who took up the adjacent country. The district was long kept back owing to the difficulty of communica- tion, but is now connected by road with Mahurangi Harbour in the Hauraki Gulf on the east, and with Auckland on the east by steamer on the Wairoa and Kaipara to Helensville, thence by rail. There are no licensed hotels in the district, since it is under the ban or banner of the Good Templars, but there is a Temperance Accommo- dation House, also a Public School, Public Hall and Library, and various Societies. The district is especially noted for its fruit. PORT AHURIRI (see Napier).—The Maori name for " The Spit," or that portion of Napier devoted to shipping. PORT CHALMERS (Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— The seaport of Dunedin, connected with it by railway along the shores of the harbour, and by a capital coach road of seven miles, which passes through very beautiful scenery on the hill between it and Dunedin. The channel between Port Chalmers and Dunedin has been dredged at great expense, and large steamers, which formerly discharged at Port Chalmers, now go to the Dunedin wharves. The railway pier is 1,000 feet long. It was once thought that Port Chalmers would be a great shipping port even for the largest vessels, and it is supplied with every facility for the speedy loading and unloading of the same, but it has gradually receded in importance since the harbour was dredged up to Dunedin. It has a fine graving dock, the first opened in New Zealand, and a floating dock 172 feet long and forty-two broad. Hotels: Provincial, Marine, Commercial, Port Chalmers, and others. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National. Churches: Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan, Congregational, Plymouth Brethren, Salvation Army. Public School, Library, Institute, Sailor's Rest, Public Hall, Foresters' Hall, Masonic, Oddfellows', and other Lodges and various Societies. Excursions.—Several by water, including Portobello. PUKEKOHE (Manukau County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A small township thirty miles south from Auckland, on the railway line to Waikato, in a fairly good district, with a large cheese and bacon factory adjacent to the township. It has two Hotels, four Churches, Public School, Library, etc. PUKETAPU (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; Tel-o.—A post town twelve miles west from Napier by coach road, and four miles from Taradale. Situate on the left bank of the Tutaekuri, and has an Hotel, Public School, and Library. Episcopalian Services are held periodi- cally in the School by visiting clergymen. QUEENSTOWN (Lake County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is a pretty agricultural and mining township, situated on the eastern shores of Lake Wakatipu on a small bay 196 miles north- west of Dunedin, 110 miles north of Invercargill, and twenty-five miles from Kingston at the foot of the lake. Communication with Inver- cargill and Bluff, thrice weekly, by the Lake Wakatipu S.S. Company's 206 brett's handy guide visit. A drive to the Saddle (nine miles) can be done in a day easily, but to the Skippers or the Reefs two days are necessary. Plain accom- modation can be had at Otago Hotel. Horses, £\ for the trip; single buggy, £1 10s.; double buggy, £3; with driver £3 10. After Ben Kawarau Falls.—Four-and-a-half miles along Frankton Road, near the Kawarau (sheep) Station. Single buggy, 10s.; double, £1. Shotover Gorge and River.—Four miles, one-and-a-half hour's walk; buggy can be taken. The road leads all the way through a wild mountain gorge, and gives a good idea of the general scenery around the lake. Lake Hayes.—The tourist can either take the Miller's Flat Road through Arrowtown, and return by the Frankton, or vice versa, twelve miles each way good road. Single buggy, 15s.; double buggy, 30s.; or 35s. with driver; saddle horse, 10s. A fine echo can be obtained near the old brewery on the Miller's Flat Road, and in a cave about one-and-a-quarter miles from Queenstown, a shepherd is stated "to have found the fleshy remains of a moa with feathers adhering." Frankton vide Kawarau Falls (Inn: Antrim Arms). Moke Creek and Lake vid Moke Valley.—From Arthur's Point a good bridle track leads all the way, coming out at Seven Miles Creek, whence the return can be made along the lake. Fine scenery; horse, 10s. Ascent of" the Remarhables."—Drive or ride to Kawarau Station, then commence ascent at the lower spur. The trip takes a whole day, and requires an early start and some exertion, but is well worthy of it. The double cone (7,688 feet) has not been reached, but the single cone, rather lower and less precipitous, frequently. Horse for the day, 10s.; single buggy, 10s., or double buggy, £1. RAGLAN (Raglan County, Auckland Province),P-o; T-o;M-o; S-b.—On the south shore of Whaingaroa Harbour on the west coast of the Auckland Province. By coach to Hamilton, and thence by rail to Auckland. The harbour of Whaingaroa is about twenty miles north of Kawhia, and fourteen north of Aotea, and accessible to vessels of con- siderable size. The district is largely limestone, but hilly and broken, and when opened up will no doubt be valuable. There are mineral springs (vide Whaingaroa, Part IV., and excellent timber in the country adjacent to the harbour, from which a steamer runs weekly to Onehunga. It has two Churches (Episcopalian and Wesleyan) and a Public School, with a considerable Maori population. RAKAIA.—See South Rakaia. RANGIORA (Ashley County. Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Twenty miles north-west from Cbristchurch, with which it is connected by rail. It is in the centre of the fine farming district of North Canterbury, and possesses extensive flour mills, breweries, etc. Hotels: Junction, Red Lion, Plough, Club. News- paper: Rangiora Standard. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, Union. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Baptist, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Salvation Army, Primitive Methodist. Public and Private Schools, Library, Hall, Masonic and other Lodges, Racing and other Clubs, various Societies, etc. TO NEW ZEALAND. 207 REEFTON (Inangahua County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Lies forty-eight miles north-east from Greymouth, and the centre of an extensive auriferous and mining district. Connected with Greymouth by coach road; also with Westport forty-six miles north, and Hokitika seventy-seven miles south. Greymouth, however, is its seaport. The line, Greymouth to Nelson (part of the Midland Railway), will run through Reefton. There is also a coach from Reefton to Nelson as well as to Belgrove, and thence by rail to Nelson. Hotels: Stevenson's, Dawson's, Melbourne Club, Exchange, and others. Newspapers: Herald, Times. Banks:-New Zealand, National. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist. Public School, Hospital, Library, Town Hall, Jockey Club, Masonic and other Lodges, various Clubs and Societies. Excursions.—Reefton is an interesting centre, and as the travellers by the direct coach to Greymouth or Hokitika have to stay a day there, it can be profitably spent in visiting some of the celebrated mines in the vicinity. RICCARTON (Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— A township immediately adjacent to Christchurch, was originally oc- cupied as a farm by Lieutenant Dean, R.N., who bought it from the Maoris, and settled upon it before the foundation of the Canterbury settlement. Recently cut up into sections and sold, and has now several flour mills, timber yard, and railway station, a Presbyterian Church, Public School, etc. On the north it adjoins Tendleton, a similar township with a Public School, Episcopalian Church, etc. RICHMOND.—See Nelson. RIVERSDALE (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A township fifty-seven miles north-east from Inver- cargill, on the Waimea Plains Railway, and connected also by it with Dunedin. Has two Inns, Public School, Library, etc. Services held periodically by a visiting Presbyterian clergyman. RIVERTON (Wallace County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A very pretty town at the mouth of Jacob's River, twenty-six miles west of Invercargill with which it is con- nected by railway; also connected by steamer with Invercar- gill and Dunedin. Has saw-mills, flour mills, and an extensive fishing industry. Shipbuilding is carried on, and auriferous reefs are worked in the district. The old native name of Jacob's River was Aparima. There are some fine caves at some distance. Hotels: Aparima, Commercial, Globe, Shamrock, etc. Of these the Aparima is recommended to tourists, the Globe to families, and the Commercial and Shamrock to business men. Newspaper: Western Star. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Presby- terian, Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Hall, Library, and various Lodges and Societies. Excursions.—Limestone Caves.—Prominent amongst these is that to the limestone cavern at Waiau, distant about thirty miles from Riverton, which can be reached by taking the train to Otautau and driving or riding along a good dray road thence to Waiau. The caves cover a considerable extent of ground, having numerous 208 brett's handy guide passages, some of which are nearly a mile in length. In the main cave the scene is brilliant in the extreme, the hundreds of stalactites suspended from the roof glisten brilliantly. There is another place near Riverton well worth a visit, viz., Lake George, a pretty little sheet of water surrounded by bush, about two miles in length and half-a-mile in breath. It is destined in future years to form a favourite convincing ground for aquatic events. It is situated about eight miles from Riverton, and can be reached within three quarters of a mile by rail to Colae Bay, the remainder of the journey being along a good corduroy bridle track. The Pourapourakino River, a tributary of the Aparima on the estuary of which the town is situated, is navigable for small boats for about twelve miles up, and is a favourite resort for picnic parties. The lovely delicate foliage of the native bush, which clothes the banks, gives an excellent idea of the beauty of a New Zealand forest and river scene, and as the stream nar- rows the branches of the trees from either bank embrace and inter- twine overhead, and form a natural avenue with a placid waterway underneath for several miles. In early summer especially, when the bright scarlet rata flowers, and the beautiful white clematis are in full bloom, and intermingle with the nikau palm and umbrella fern, the display is most luxuriantly rich. ROSS (Westland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is a min- ing township, about twenty miles south from Hokitika, and the centre of a rich auriferous district in which the workings are very extensive. The yields have from time to time been great, but the sinking in some parts is deep and impeded by water. Hotels: Empire, Junction, Club, National, Albion, Criterion, and many others. Newspaper: The Ross Advocate. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Hospital, Theatre, Library, Good Templar, Oddfellows', and other Lodges, Clubs and Societies. Excursions—Coach to Hokitika (twenty miles). Western Glaciers of Mount Cook.—Forty miles on horseback to Okarito, thence for twelve miles up the Waiau Valley beside the river of same name, fed by the Franz Joseph Glacier, and the glacier itself is reached, 705 feet above sea level. The scenery is very fine, and there are accommodation houses all along the route. ROTORUA — See Ohinemutu. ROXBURGH.—See Teviot. RUAPEHU (8,878 feet).—" The Snow Queen" the highest moun- tain in the North Island, and a most beautiful one. About twenty-five miles from Taumawanui, and 139 or 140 miles up the Wanganui River. RUSSELL (Bay of Islands County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b —The oldest town in New Zealand, 130 miles north of Auckland on the shores of the splendid Bay of Islands. Has been a resort for whalers from the earliest days of whalefishing in the South Pacific as far back as the last decade of the eighteenth century. It is surrounded with historical associations and places. The first mission station was planted at the Bay of Islands in 1814, and the 2IO BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Royal. Newspaper: Ellesmcre Guardian. Banks: New Zealand, Union. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Presby- terian. Public School, Town Hall, Library, Farmers' Club, etc. SOUTHBROOK (Canterbury Province), P-o.—Nineteen miles north of Christchurch on the railway line. Hotel, Public School, Library, etc. SOUTHERN ALPS —The chief mountain chain in New Zealand, extending a distance of nearly 200 miles from north to south through the South Island. For half this distance, from the Rangitata River to the Waitaki, the chain is unbroken, and none of the summits and but few passes are free from perpetual snow. Aorangi or Mount Cook (12,349 feet) is its highest peak, and among the other giants of the chain are Hochstetter Dome (11,500 feet). Mount Tasman (11,475 feet), Mount Sefton (10,959 feet), La Perouse (10,359 feet), Mount Hardinger (10,021 feet), Mount De la Beche (10,021 feet), Glacier Peak (10,107 feet), Minaret Peaks (10,058 feet), Mount Aspiring (9,960 feet), Mount Earnslaw (9,165 feet), besides numerous others over 8,000 feet. SOUTH RAKAIA (Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Eighty-six miles south-west of Christchurch, on the railway line to Timaru. Situate on the banks of the Rakaia River and with a very fertile district around. Hotels: Rakaia, Railway. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian. Public School, Library, Town Hall, etc. SPRINGFIELD (Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— The present terminus of the railway from Christchurch across the South Island, and distant from the Cathedral City about forty-four miles. It is also the starting point for Cassidy, Bourne & Co.'s coaches through the Otira Gorge to Kumara and Hokitika. Hotel: Springfield. Excursion.—Ascent of Mount Torlesse.—For this capital trip the party should leave at 6.45 a.m., and arrive at the camp 8 45, com- mencing the ascent thence. The time taken to reach the summit will be about four hours and a quarter. The grandeur of the view obtained of the plains below, dotted with the different villages, is exceedingly fine, and more than repays the tourist for the time and labour expended in the ascent. The track is very rough in parts, but if more time is taken, so as to choose direction, the distance could be shortened, and a better route mapped out. If this was done tourists could easily do the trip between the arrival of the train at Springfield on Saturday evening and departure on Monday morning, with such advantages as offer in summer from January to March, the mountain range being nearly clear of snow, and warm fine weather; holiday makers have a grand oppor- tunity to make the ascent, but condition for a little hard travelling is essential. Ladies have started for the summit, and one at least is said to have reached it. STAFFORD (Westland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Eight- and-a-half miles from Hokitika, and connected with it by daily coach. Has four Inns. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, TO NEW ZEALAND. 211 Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public School, Library, Hospital, Oddfellows' and other Lodges, etc. STEWART ISLAND (Otago Province).—The third island of the group known as New Zealand, and a county of the Otago Province. Its area is 1,300 square miles, or 459,162 acres. It is separated from the South Island by Foveaux Strait, of which the width is about fifteen miles. There are several fine harbours on its east and south-east shores. It is mountainous on the whole and thickly wooded, much of the timber being valuable. It is especially celebrated for its oyster;;, and latterly for the tin discoveries that have been made there, though gold and other minerals have long been known to exist. There are saw-mills on the island, and several sheep runs. STIRLING (Otago Province), P-o; T-o ; M-o; S-b.—Situated on the north bank of the Matau branch of the Clutha River, fifty miles south-west from Dunedin, on the line to Invercargill. Has two Hotels, a Presbyterian Church, Public School, Library, Agricultural Society, etc. SWITZERS (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Seventy-three miles from Invercargill on the Wakaia River, and formerly known for the rich alluvial diggings in its neigh- bourhood. Has three Inns. Bank: National. Presbyterian Church, Public School, Library, etc. SYDENHAM (Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— A suburban extension of Christchurch City to the southward, but under its own Corporate Government. Has steam saw-mills, pottery, agricul- tural implement factory, brewery, etc. Four Hotels, Public and Private Schools, Town Hall, Lodges, and various Societies. SUMNER (vide Christchurch). TAKAKA (Collingwood County, Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A small township fifty-three miles from Nelson. Has a branch of the Bank of New Zealand. TAKAPAU (WaipawaCounty, Hawke's Bay), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A grazing, timber, and flax district. Situated on the Ruataniwha Plains, fifty-seven miles from Napier, on the railway line to Wellington. Has an Hotel, Public School, and Public Library, and is periodically visited by Episcopalian and Presbyterian clergymen. TAKAPUNA (Auckland Province). — Hotel. (Vide Auckland, Part II., and Devonport, Part III.) TAPANUI (Tuapeka County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the Pomahaka River, ninety-eight miles south from Dunedin, and connected with it and Invercargill by rail. A township in a fine agricultural and timber district. Hotels: Commercial, Farmers' Club, Prince of Wales. Newspaper: Tapanui Courier. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Presbyterian, Episcopal, Wesleyan. Public and Private Schools, Public Hall, Library, Lodges, and various Societies. 212 brett's handy guide TARADALE (Hawke s Bay County), P-o; Tel-o—A post town five miles from Napier by coach road. Has two Inns, Town Hall, Public Library, two Churches, Public and Private Schools, etc. TARAWERA (Wairoa County, Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A postal town on the direct coach route, Taupo to Napier, fifty miles north-west of the latter, on the Waipunga Creek. The scenery on the drive between Tarawera and Napier is very fine, notably the views from the Tauranga, Kuma, and Titiokura summits. Hotel: Brill's. District School. TAUPO (Thermal Springs District, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A township on the shores of Lake Taupo, 175 miles from Auckland, in a southerley direction vid Lichfield, the shortest route, though generally reached vid Oxford and Rotorua, so as to see the Hot Lakes on the way. Train to catch Lichfield coach leaves Auckland Mondays at 9.35 a.m., reaching Lichfield about 3 p.m., whence the coach starts Tuesday at 7 a.m., leaving Taupo the follow- ing day at the same hour for the train which returns to Auckland on Thursdays. Hotels: in Taupo, Lake Hotel; two miles from Taupo, Joshua's Spa, living in cottages in Continental style; seven miles from Taupo, Geyser Hotel, Wairakei, close to the geysers and other sights of the valley. Public School. Taupo is the centre for numerous excursions. In winter there is capital shooting about the lake— pheasants, ducks, and pigeons. There are two launches on the lake; Sproule's, a small one of about three tons, and Fernie's, a thirty tonner, the latter capable for going out in any weather. The view across the lake on a fine day is glorious, it includes Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro. The Principal Excursions are:—Tokaanu, about twenty-six miles across Lake Taupo, four hours by Fernie's launch; or by buggy round the lake five to six hours. Although yet in a primitive state, there are geysers and mineral springs at Tokaanu, and it is the starting point for the ascents of Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu (vide Wanganui). Small launch (three tons) to Tokaanu, costs 15s. each, every Thursday, and the large launch (thirty tons) can be chartered for £5 per day, or £1 per head per day if less than six in party. Buggies cost £3 per day, and horse feed, 8s 6d. per day. Sights round Lake Taupo, etc.—At least two days required with the large launch. There is fine scenery on western side—high land pro- jecting over lake, fine waterfalls, caves and echoes, good shooting in the valleys running down to lake; Fairfax Island in centre of the lake should be visited. There are caves on it with Maori remains, and a huge rata tree forming arch over entrance. (N.B. Tents and cooking utensils can be supplied by Fernie.) Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe can be ascended, and return made to Tokaanu in four days; moderate climbing. R. B. Maunsell is the chief guide in the district, and Thomas Cook and Son now make arrange- ments for these trips. Wairakei.—Seven miles from Taupo, vid the Huka Falls (see Wairakei, Part II.), buggies there and back, 10s. each person; guide ee to see the sights, geysers, etc., 5s. each. Objects of interest include Karapiti, the Great Wairakei and Little Wairakei Geysers, the Twins, TO NEW ZEALAND. 213 Prince of Wales' Feathers, Blue Lake, Paint Pots, and the lovely Champagne Pool. The rare hotwater {ern.(nej>hrolepis cordifolia) grows in this glen. Rotohawa.—A " Bitter Lake," about one mile in diameter, with sulphur holes and fine crystals of same round the banks—reach by buggy from Taupo; about nine miles on horseback: a weird place. Price of a buggy same as for Wairakei. Tauhara (3,600 feet).—A fine mountain and an easy climb—an ex- tinct volcano. Horses can be taken part of the way, and there is a splendid view from the summit. Oraheikorako (see Health Resorts, Part IV.).—A very long day from Taupo of twenty-two miles each way, but by bivouacking with the natives for one night and returning following day, the trip is made easier. Sights: Alum Cave, Alum Spring, Terraces and Terrace Formations, well worth seeing. Horses, 10s. each per day. Buggy can be taken twelve miles along the main road, price £2 for one or four persons. Glen Loffley, in which Joshua's Spa is situated, is celebrated for its mineral baths, and numerous natural wonders lying between it and the Waikato River, the most noteworthy being on the river's banks. These are the " Crow's Nest Geyser," which at a certain season throws a jet of spray ninety feet in an oblique direction over the river, the "Witches Cauldron," similar to the Champagne Pool at Wairakei, "Satan's Glory," and the "Little Crow's Nest." Away from the river a short distance, are" Paddle-Wheel Ben," emitting steam with a noise like paddle-wheels, and sundry other sights of lesser importance. In the grounds of the Spa are a fine hot swimming bath, and baths efficacious in the treatment of various complaints. It is altogether a unique spot to stay in. Huha Falls are usually visited en route to Wairakei or when com- ing thence into Taupo. They are formed by the Waikato River rushing through a narrow rocky channel, from which the waters burst in a most sweeping but beautiful volume. Fine ferns grow around them, and the New Zealand orchid (carina autumnalis) may be found. At one time the Waikato River must have been an enormous body of water, and though a fine river still can be only a trickle in comparison to what it was formerly. TAURANGA (Tauranga County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A charming township and watering place, on the shores of the harbour of same name, in the Bay of Plenty, 130 miles south-east from Auckland. The harbour is extensive and safe. Tauranga used to be a thriving township, and passengers to the Hot Lakes, before the railway was built to Oxford, used generally to spend a few days there en route; now the majority of tourists go via the Waikato and Oxford, and trade in Tauranga has decreased. The surrounding district is historically celebrated for various incidents in the Maori War. The Gate Pah and Te Ranga Pah are both within a few miles of the town, where, in 1864, disastrous fighting took place. Mr. Vesey Stewart has a special settlement of some 26,000 acres at Katikati, and the estimated annual value of rateable property in the borough of Tauranga is £15,044. Steamer communication with Auckland bi-weekly. Hotels: Tauranga, Star, Commercial. News- 214 brett's handy guide paper: Bay of Plenty Times. Banks: New Zealand, National. Churches: Episcopalian, Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, and Roman Catholic. There are several insurance agencies, two Public Halls, soda water factory, fish-curing establishment, biscuit factory, flour mill, sub- stantial wharves and goods' sheds, as well as two Public Schools, District Court House, Barracks, etc. Excursions.—To Matutu and Makeiu by coach, buggy, or boat. Good shooting in the neighbourhood. Buggy runs weekly to Te Puke vid Matata, and thence to Opotiki; N.S.S. Company's steamers connect between Tauranga, Opotiki, and Whakatane. Hot Lakes (vide Coach Routes, Part lib.).—A whole day's coach journey. Te Aroha, Katihati, and Thames (vide Coach Routes, Part lib.).— Thames to Tauranga. TE AROHA (Piako County, Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A rising township, thirty-six miles from Grahamstown, which may be reached from it by river or road. Communication with Tauranga by road, and with Auckland by railway. Tourists to the Hot Lakes can break their journey here if desired. It lies in a mining and agricultural district, with fine hot springs in the township, which is built at the foot of the beautiful Te Aroha Mountain. (See Health Resorts.) Hotels: Club, Hot Springs, and others; also several good Boarding Houses. Newspaper: Te Aroha News. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan. Public School, Hall, Reading Room, etc. Excursions.—To Waiorongomai to see the mines, boating on the Waihou River, etc. TE AUTE (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o.—Twenty-nine miles south-west from Napier on the railway line to Woodville. It is the seat of a Maori Training School under the Church of England, and a fine pastoral district. TE AWAMUTU (Waipa County, Auckland Prov.), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Twelve miles south of Hamilton, on the Auckland- Waikato Railway. In a fine agricultural district; has a cheese and bacon factory, brewery, etc. It possesses two Hotels, Branch of New Zealand Bank. Churches: Episcopal, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public School, Town Hall, etc. TE KUITI (Auckland Province).—Railway now extended there. Hotel, and an excursion to Te Anaatu Cave in the neighbourhood of Te Kumi. TEMUKA (Geraldine County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A township eighty-eight miles south from Christ- church, on the railway to Timaru. It has a brewery, butter and cheese factory, fellmongery, paper-mill, etc. The district is fertile and ex- tensive. Hotels: Crown, Arrowhenua, Royal, Temuka, Temperance. Newspaper: Temuha Leader. Banks: New Zealand, New South Wales. Churches: five. Public and Private Schools, Library and Reading Room, Lodges and Societies of several kinds, etc. TO NEW ZEALAND. 215 TEMPLETON (Selwyn County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o.—A post town nine miles from Christchurch, on the railway line to Dunedin. Has large grain stores and chicory works. Hotels, two. TENUI (Wairarapa County, Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A post town thirty miles from Masterton towards Castle Point, and ninety-five miles from Wellington, with a mail twice a week partly by road and partly by horse-track. Has an Hotel and Public School. TERAWHITI (Wellington Province).—About eighteen miles west from Wellington. Auriferous reefs have been discovered, but so far not successfully worked. TEVIOT(orROXBURGH),(TuapekaCounty,Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On the Clutha River, near the Mount Benger Range, and about forty miles north of Lawrence with which it is con- nected by coach. A pastoral country, celebrated for its excellent fruit, and an extensive mining district. Hotels: Heron's Commercial, and others. Newspaper: Mount Benger Mail. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public School, Library and Reading Room, etc. THAMES.—See Grahamstown. THORIJIBURY (Wallace County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A station twenty miles north-west from Invercargill, on the railway to Riverton, and situate at the junction of five roads. A market town for sales of live stock. Hasan agricultural implement factory. Inns, two, Railway Refreshment Room. Episcopalian Church, Public School, Hall, etc. TIMARU (Qeraldine County, Canterbury Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—The chief town in South Canterbury, and connected with Christchurch and Dunedin by rail and steamer. It lies about 100 miles from Christchurch, and 131 miles from Dunedin, and is the junction for Fairlie Creek, the present terminus of the railway in the direction of Mount Cook. The district is of the best agricultural and pastoral character, and the harbour is,now sheltered by a breakwater, with every facility for loading large vessels. It possesses flour mills, meat preserving factories, agricultural implement works, a fine woollen factory, and similar industries, on an extensive scale. Hotels: Grosvenor, Ship, Royal, Club, Clarendon, Queen's, Shamrock, Melville, Timaru, Commercial, Old Bank, Hibernian. Newspapers: Timaru Herald, South Canterbury Times. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, National, Union, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Wesleyan, Primitive Methodist, Baptist, Hebrew. Public and Private Schools. Theatre, Town Hall, Hospital, Oddfellows' Hall, Foresters' Hall, Garrison Hall, and others. Various Lodges and Societies. TINKERS' (or Tl N KER'S G ULLY), (Otago Province).—A mining district situated at the foot of the Dunstan Range, eight miles from Blacks or Ophir. Has an Inn and a Public School. TOKOMAIRIRO.—See Milton. 217 fertile and well settled, and its agricultural produce large. It has one or two good Inns. Newspaper: Waimate Times. Banks: New South Wales, Union. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Roman Catholic, Methodist ; also a large Salvation Army Barracks. Public and Private Schools, Library and Reading Room, Hospital, Masonic, Foresters' and other Halls and Lodges, Racing Club, Agricultural and Pastoral Society, etc. There are also a pack of harriers maintained by the district, and two good parks close to the town. WAIORONGOMAI (Auckland Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—A mining township, 129 miles from Auckland, and within a walk of Te Aroha, from which place it is frequently visited by people interested in mining. WAIPAWA (Hawkes Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— Thirty-nine miles south-west of Napier, on the railway line to Wellington, and on the northern bank of the Waipawa River. A fine pastoral and agricultual district. Hotels: Empire, Waipawa, Imperial, Settlers. Newspaper: Waipawa Mail. Banks : Australasia, New Zealand. Churches: Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Methodist. Public and Private Schools, Reading Room, Masonic, Oddfellows' and Rechabite Halls and other Lodges. WAIPU (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b—Twelve miles from Whangarei Heads, and about ninety-two miles north of Auckland. Originally a settlement of Nova Scotians. There are some remarkable limestone caves a few miles from the township. Has a Presbyterian Church, Public School, Hotel, etc. WAIPUKURAU (Hawke's Bay Province).—One of the prettiest and best laid out country towns in the Colony, forty-four miles from Napier and five from Waipawa, situated on the Waipukurau River, and on the Napier-Woodville Railway, in the heart of a very fine district. This township was part of the estate of the Hon. H. R. Russell, and laid out by him under long leases, equal to freeholds, but enabling him to make conditions as to the business to be carried on, and the arrangement of buildings, streets, etc. The town has always preserved the characteristics associated with it from its foundation. Only one hotel was allowed (Gow's), and an admirable country hotel it is, one of the best old-fashioned houses in New Zealand to-day. The New Zealand and Union Banks have branches there, and it possesses a Public School, Library, and excellent Hospital. WAIRAKEI (Thermal Springs District).—Hotel: Geyser. (Vide Taupoand Wairakei, Part II., and Taupo, Part III.) WAIROA (Hawkes Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— Seventy miles by land, north of Napier, and forty by sea, but the River Wairoa, on which it stands, is only navigable for small vessels. The district around is hilly and broken, and generally only used for grazing; good hops have been grown there however. Hotels: Clyde, Riverside, Wairoa. Newspaper: Wairoa Guardian. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Public Library, etc. 2l8 brett's handy guide Excursions.—There are in the Wairoa District natural wonders and scenic attractions of a high order. There is the fine forest-girt sheet of water, Waikaremoana, a star-shaped lake sixteen miles long and eight miles broad, which is said to surpass, in bold scenery and picturesque beauty, Taupo, Rotorua, Tarawera, or any other lake in the North Island. Then there is also the grand Te Reinga Falls of the Wairoa River, where the whole body of water thunders down in a cataract sixty or seventy feet high, making with its surroundings a most striking spectacle. , Again, the Whakapunaki Range contains wonderful limestone caves and subterranean watercourses. Altogether there is much to attract tourists to this district if it were only better known. WAIROA (Auckland Province).—Formerly a village near the foot of Lake Tarawera, ten miles from Rotorua, and the terminus of the coach road from Oxford in that direction, and the starting point of the trip in Maori canoes across Lake Tarawera to the famous Pink and White Terraces. Kate and Sophia, the guides, lived in their whares there, and Joseph McRae kept a capital hotel, "The Rotomahana." It was totally destroyed by the eruption of Mount Tarawera in June, 1886, in which altogether nearly 120 lives were lost. McRae saved several lives by his coolness and bravery, though young Bainbridge, a tourist staying at the hotel, was killed by the verandah falling on him. Sophia saved a good many in her whare. The old mission church and mill,—in fact all the buildings were destroyed. The coach road has been washed away since, owing to the impermeable volcanic mud throwing the rain out of its former channels; so that Wairoa is at present reached on horseback. The trip across the lake still possesses an intense interest, but it is one of a totally different character from formerly. WAIROA SOUTH (Auckland Province).—A small but fertile district, twenty-eight miles from Auckland by the railway to Papakura, and thence about ten miles by road. The township is on the Wairoa South River, which runs into the Hauraki Gulf. It is in regular com- munication also by steamer with Auckland. It has an Hotel and a Public School. WAITAHUNA (Taupeka County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—On line Dunedin to Lawrence, fifty-two miles from Dunedin. A mining district, which formerly produced a large quantity of gold; it is now partly agricultural. There is an Hotel there. Bank: Branch of Bank, New Zealand. Public School, Presbyterian Church, Library, various Lodges, and a Farmers' Club. WAITAKI NORTH (Otago Province).—A railway station on the Waitaki River, the boundary between Canterbury and Otago provinces, 138 miles from Christchurch, and on the railway line between that place and Dunedin. It has an Hotel and a Public School. WAITAKI SOUTH (Otago Province).—A railway station 139 miles south of Christchurch. WAITARA (Taranaki Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b—About eleven miles from New Plymouth, and on the River Waitara, having TO NEW ZEALAND. regular communication by steamer with Onehunga (for Auckland), and by rail with New Plymouth. The Waitara is historically remarkable as the site of Wi Kingi's Pah, and the spot in which the purchase of 600 acres was made from Teira in 1859, which led to the long, costly, and devastating Maori War. The Bank of New Zealand has a branch there. Churches: Episcopalian and Wesleyan. There are three Hotels. Large quantities of live stock are sent from the district to the Auckland market. WAITOTARA (Wellington Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.— Twenty-six miles from Wanganui, on the River Waitotara, and on the railway line to New Plymouth and Wellington. It is situated in a deep valley, whence the railway commences climbing the hills at a steep gradient. It has two Hotels and a Public School. WAIUKU (Auckland Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b.—Situated in the Manukau Harbour on an arm of the salt water, and connected with Auckland by steamer from Onehunga, or by coach road from Drury and Pukekohe. Distant from Onehunga about thirty miles, and from Auckland thirty-eight miles. The district is dairying and fruit-growing. There are Presbyterian, Episcopalian, and Anglican Churches. An Hotel, Public School, Public Hall, etc. Henry Parker keeps good vehicles and horses for the use of tourists; and the Waikato Heads, a coming summer resort for Auckland families, can be reached from there via, the Otawa Creek, or by the sand-hills. WAIWERA (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—In the Hauraki Gulf, thirty-five miles north of Auckland, and on the right bank of the Waiwera River where it enters the gulf. There is a good coach road overland, and regular communication by steamer. The Hot Springs of Waiwera have long been celebrated and are resorted to by large numbers of people. There is a fine Hotel, and in the adjacent valley of the Puhoi River, a special settlement of Bohemians who have thriven well. The Puhoi River is worth visiting when at Waiwera. (See Auckland, Part II.). WAKEFIELD (Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A railway station on the Nelson-Belgrove Railway, seventeen miles from Nelson. Has a branch of the Bank, New Zealand. WALLINGFORD (Hawke's Bay Province).—Sixty-five miles from Napier, and nineteen from Waipukurau Railway Station, with which it is connected by road. Also about nine miles frrim Porangahau. Has a Roman Catholic Church, a School, two Hotels, etc. WALLSEND (Grey County, Westland Province).—A railway station on the Greymouth and Brunner line, seven miles from Greymouth. A coal-mining district with four Hotels, Public School, etc. WANGANUI (Wellington Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b — On the north bank of the Wanganui River about four miles from the heads. Communication by steamer with Wellington and other ports and by rail with Wellington and New Plymouth. Has steam saw-mills, woodenware factories, foundries, flour mills, breweries, fellmongeries, etc. The surrounding district is very fertile and well settled. The TO NEW ZEALAND. 221 August, 1888, and gave some of the members and others a description of the battle, and the meaning of the famous Ake, Ake, Ake. From Kihikihi there are good carriage roads to Alexandra or to Te Awamutu. at which latter place, or Te Kuiti, you regain the railway. This is the last stage from the King Country, and ends a trip, that with plenty of time and inclination cannot fail to be most enjoyable. To Ruapehu Ngauruhoe, and Taupo (by Field and Marshall's track).—A most interesting trip, and likely to be the customary route in future for west coast travellers, as the Napier-Tarawera-Taupo route will be for tourists coming along the east coast. Go from Wanganui to Upokongaro, thence by the Mangawhero Valley, passing within view of the "Three Graces" (three pretty little lakes) to the place where the track leaves the river at Te Parapara. Four miles away are the great " Mangawhero Falls," but the country between them and the road is too rough to invite travellers to turn aside. The track leads next past Te Koro and over the range into the Wangaehu Valley with its fine scenery, thence to Kerioi on the Tokiahuru River, where the Murimotu Racecourse lies. From Kerioi the track rounds the eastern base of Ruapehu, at the bottom of which, apparently from the bosom of a great black rock, flow the Waikato and Wangaehu Rivers. Behind Ruapehu, the Snow Queen (8,878 feet), stands Ngauruhoe, or the Smoking Mountain (7,376 feet). From abreast of Ngauruhoe the first view of Lake Taupo is obtained, though Roto Aira (little lake) lying to the south-west should be inspected before reaching its larger brother. Roto Aira is most picturesquely placed, with the Maori village of Poutu close by. From Poutu it is only a short ride to Lake Taupo and Tokaanu, now becoming a tourist resort of interest. Thos. Cook & Son have made arrangements with Maunsell, the guide for the district, who resides at Tokaanu, and a telegram a fortnight in advance will always secure his services. From Tokaanu to Tapuaeharuru (or Taupo) township is the last stage, and with it ends a trip to be recommended to all who are fond of riding and fine scenery. WARKWORTH (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.— Thirty-five miles north from the City of Auckland, at the head of the tidal waters of the Mahurangi River in the Hauraki Gulf. Com- munication by steamer or road with Auckland. A fine fruit district, and produces a well-known hydraulic lime. It has an Hotel and Boarding House. Churches: Episcopalian, Wesleyan, Presbyterian. Public Hall, Public School, etc. WATERFORD.—See Katikati. WAVERLEY (Taranaki Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b — Thirty-six miles from Wanganui, on the railway line to New Ply- mouth, surrounded by agricultural and grazing country. Hotels: Commercial, Wairoa, Waverley. Banks: New Zealand, Australasia. Public School, Hall, etc. WHAKAREWAREWA (Thermal Springs District).—Hotel: Geyser. (Vide Rotorua, Part III., and North Island Wonderland, Part II.) 222 brett's handy guide WELLINGTON.—The capital of the Colony and seat of Govern- ment, situated on the shores of Port Nicholson, in a fine deep land-locked harbour in Cook's Straight. Wellington is the centre of ocean and coastal steam traffic, and its wharves supply every facility for loading and unloading the largest ships. There is deep water close to the shore. The town runs along the foot, and on the sides of lofty hills to the Te Aro Flat, where there is a considerable quantity of level land. The other end of the town, where the Parliament House and public buildings are situated, is known as Thorndon, and the harbour opposite as Lambton Harbour. Wellington was the first settlement made in New Zealand by the New Zealand Company, and was the centre of its subsequent operations. The seat of Government was removed to it from Auckland in 1864. Wellington is also the commercial centre of a very fine province, and of the settlements on the other side of Cook's Strait, and is in railway communication with the west coast to New Plymouth, and with the east coast, with the exception of a short break at the Manawatu Gorge and River, which is nearly completed to Napier. The Parliament House, Government House, and Public Offices, are the largest of their kind in the Colony. The Wellington Club is also a fine building. The Museum is one of the best, and the Hospital and Lunatic Asylum are also commodious. It has two large meat-freezing establishments, iron foundries and other factories, and the woollen factory already mentioned at Petone. From the nature of the country the suburbs of Wellington are small but very prettily situated in the valleys among the surrounding hills. The gardens at "the Hutt" are also very attractive for picnics, etc. A patent slip at Evans' Bay can accommodate vessels up to 2,000 tons There is a capital racecourse, and an excellent cricket ground. The domain or public park, though hilly, is very beautiful in its scenery, and offers fine specimens of the native New Zealand bush on its hillsides, and lovely fern tree gullies. The town has an inexhaustible supply of the best fresh water from the Wainui-o-mata River about sixteen miles' distant. Wellington is the residence of the Roman Catholic Archbishop, Redwood, and of Bishop Hadfield, of the Church of England. Hotels: Occidental, Empire, Royal Oak, Club, Albert, Oxford, Gilmer's, and others. Newspapers: Evening Post, Times, Evening Presfi, New Zealand Mail, Church Chronicle. Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, Union, Australasia, New South Wales. Clubs: Wellington and Central, non-resident. Churches: Church of England and Roman Catholic Cathedrals and Churches, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Primitive Methodist, Congregational, Church of Christ, Plymouth Brethren, Hebrew, Salvation Army. Public and Private Schools, Town Hall. Masonic, Oddfellows', and other Halls and Lodges. Athenaeum. Theatres: Royal, Opera House. Racecourse at Island Bay and at the Hutt. Thomas Cook and Son have an Agency in the City (Mr. Charles St. Barbe, agent), and the Union Steamship Company, and all the other important Steamship Com- panies, Offices or Agencies likewise. Excursions.—There are a few pleasant excursions in or about Wellington. Mount Victoria makes a pleasant walk, and a fine view can be obtained thence of the City and surroundings. TO NEW ZEALAND. 223 Island Bay.—Rather less than a mile from the terminus of the tram line. McNab's Gardens at the Hutt (nine miles) have already been men- tioned; the train is usually taken thither. They are very attractive. The Racecourse is near to them. Wellington Terrace, and the Hills behind the Town.—Ascending from the terrace by the road now made right up the hills, a splendid view canbe obtained of the whole city lying below, and of the harbour. The Botanical Gardens are well worthy a visit. They lie behind the town, and there are very fine views from the highest hills that form part of them. The Rimutaha Railway.—If this has not been the route by which the traveller arrived at Wellington, he should certainly ride out in the train as far as Cross Creek and back to see this great engineering feat. Oae foot in fifteen is a steep grade even in this age of wonders. The Wellington-Manawatu Railway Company's Line. — It is well worth while taking a trip on this railway to Paikakariki (or further) and back. WEST COAST SOUNDS.—These beautiful fiords, thirteen in number, lie on the south-west coast of the South Island, between the parallels of 44° and 46° south latitude. Their size and characteristics vary greatly, and taken as a group they are unique. The following are the most noteworthy, particulars concerning each given in the order of their geographical position beginning from the most southerly. Preservation Inlet.—216 miles from Port Chalmers; 224 miles to Cuttle Cove anchorage; Cuttle Cove to head of Long Sound, sixteen miles; length of Long Sound, fourteen miles. Notice Needle Peak (4,100 feet), Forgotten Peak, 3,682; to the westward Treble Mountain, with its three-peaked summits, each over 3,000 feet, highest 3,380. Eastward, Overseen Peak, 3,550; Bald Peaks, 3,378 feet; Solitary Peak, 3,265 feet; Garnett Peak and Rugged Mount, 4,335 feet; also Shark's Tooth Rock, Anvil Rock (near Marble Slip), Battlement Cliff, all near Sandy Point; Cove Peak, 4,800 feet, and House Roof Hill at head of Long Sound. Excursions to Revolver Bay, with Sinclair Fall. Excursions to Craig's (Sandy) Point into the bush up Dane River. Excursions to Paradise Island. Chalky or Dark Cloud Inlet.—Principal Arms, Cunaris Sound and Edwardson Sound. Not at present visited by the excursion vessels. Chalky Inlet, called after the island in its mouth, is divided from Preservation Inlet by a tongue of land. Cunaris Sound is five miles long, Edwardson six miles. Notice Easter Passage, Sugarloaf Rock, Pinnacle Rock, Stripe Head, and Breaker Point. Cray fish plentiful, likewise blue cod, trumpeters and gropers. Dusky Sound abounds with coves, viz., Shelter, Cascade, Goose, Cormorant, Duck, and Supper Coves. Cuttle Cove to Dusky Sound by coast twenty-eight miles; length of Dusky Sound, twenty-two miles. A bold imposing sound, very different from Preservation Inlet— sterile and bare in many parts, with huge crags covered in patches with bush without any of the heavier timber. Grand peaks to be seen here. Notice to right, Mount Evans, 4,120 feet; left, Mount Pinder, 4,000 feet; right again, Mount Evans, 4,120 feet; Mount Sparman, 3,298 feet; Mount Bradshaw, 3,300 feet; the Stopper, 3,650 feet. 224 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Miners have made their abode here. Of the islands, Anchor Island, 1,360 feet, which lies immediately within the entrance, is the most conspicuous, but notice also Indian Island (one-and-a-half miles long), Long Island (seven miles), and Cooper Island (three-and-a-half miles). Cook discovered spinach in this sound. Breaksea Sound.—Dusky and Breaksea Sounds are connected by Bowen Channel and Acheron Passage, called after H.M.S. " Acheron," in which lies the snug anchorage, Wet Jacket Arm, eighteen miles distant from the head of Dusky Sound. This arm is a most beautiful one, the cascades after rain being almost numberless; its length is six miles. The great navigator, Vancouver, is said to have sought shelter in his ship " Discovery " in Acheron Passage, and there is also a story of a wreck having taken place off Resolution Island. Wet Jacket Arm to mouth of Breaksea Sound, thirteen-and-a-half miles. Principal Arms: Broughton and Vancouver Arms. The vessel usually passes through this sound without slowing down at all. Though beautiful of necessity, it has no striking features when compared with the rest. Dagg's Sound.—A small sound seldom visited, situated some thirteen miles up the coast from Breaksea. Doubtful Sound.—Principal Arms: Smith Sound, Crooked Sound, and Hall's Arm. Breaksea to Doubtful by coast, nineteen miles; Doubtful to Hall's Arm, sixteen-and-a-half miles. A misnamed, but very charming sound in all its features, while Hall's Arm, and especially the head of it, is as beautiful and majestic as any; there is a soft suggestion of the English lakes about it—on a grander scale—which adds to its charm. Notice Hare's Ears Rocks and Febrero Point, also Secretary Island—all at entrance of Doubtful Sound, likewise Mount Grosnoz (4,360 feet) and Banza Island; and Solitary Cone (about 4,000 feet) from Smith's Sound. Rolla Island, covered with the beautiful red rata, in Hall's Arm, and the graceful Elizabeth Islet. Parties of explorers are trying from time to time to reach Hall's Arm from Lake Manapouri; it will probably be done shortly as the distance is only about fifteen miles but through the densest of New Zealand forest. Thompson Sound.—Principal Arms: Bradshaw Sound and Gaer Arm. Hall's Arm to mouth of Thompson's Sound, twenty-one miles. This sound has been described as an arm of Doubtful, which necessi- tates Bradshaw Sound and Gaer Arm belonging to Doubtful likewise. This is manifestly a mistake, and arose doubtless from the fact that the vessel usually proceeds from Doubtful past Deas Cove vid Thompson's Sound on its way to Caswell, instead of going out to sea. Notice the view at junction of Doubtful, Smith's, Bradshaw's, and Thompson's Sounds; also Forden and Glengarry Peaks up Bradshaw, Crayfish Heights (2,930 feet) in Thompson's on right, and Mount Napier (2,320 feet) on left. A fine sound, with many interesting peaks, yields fine shadows in the sunlight. Nancy Sound.—A small sound a few miles above Thompson Sound, rarely visited. Saddle Back Peak (4,250 feet) at head. Charles Sound.—Principal Arm: Emilius Arm. Another of the smaller sounds, lying a few miles above Nancy, and sharing its fate. Fleetwood Peak (4,190 feet) at head. TO NEW ZEALAND. 225 Caswell Sound.—There are no arms in this sound—only coves; Grove Creek anchorage at head. Thompson to Caswell by coast twelve-and-a-quarter miles. Length of Caswell Sound nine-and-three- quarter miles. The entrance to this sound is fine, but seems impossible owing to the surf, which completely hides the safe water till the vessel is quite close. Notice the marble quarry, now abandoned, with its "houses to let," Command Peak (4,650 feet), also Mount Paulina (4,250feet) to the right, Mount Tanilba (420feet), and Mount Alexander (3,850 feet) on left. Fleetwood Peak (4,190 feet) on right, and Mary Peaks (5,500 feet) at head of sound. George Sound.—No arms of importance, only coves anchorage near Waterfall Creek. Caswell to George Sound by coast, fourteen miles, length of George Sound, twelve miles. The most charming sound of all, of a round soft enticing beauty, and the general favourite. The chief attractions are the beautiful Gertrude Falls (200 feet) and Lake Mary. The vessel anchors at the foot of the creek leading to the former, which are fed by Lake Mary. The best way to get to the lake, for those who like a smart climb, is to follow the right bank of the fall to its head, then round the shores of the lake by a track through the bush and down by the old watercourse; but those who prefer the easier track, can go by the old watercourse (which runs up some fifty yards to the right of the fall by Tarawera landing), ascending and descending, but it makes the longer route of the two, one hour being sufficient for the excursion the other way. It is a most delightful little excursion, some of the views on the lake up the fall and in the old watercourse being exceedingly dainty ones. There are a large number of ducks on Lake Mary, and pigeons and kakas in the bush. Fish, too, are numerous throughout the sound, and landing places may be found on several points. It is an idyllic spot for a regatta, and the "Tarawera " organises one there annually. Regatta Peak (5,000 feet) and Mount Edgar (6,000 feet) are the chief peaks in the vicinity of this sound, and Lincoln Bay opposite Waterfall Creek, though nearer the entrance to the sound, is a beautiful little spot for going ashore. Bligh Sound.—One of the smaller sounds rarely visited, but celebrated as the scene of the accident to Her Majesty's Ship " Clio," when Sir George Bowen, then Governor of New Zealand, was making a summer trip round the sounds with Commodore Sterling. The "Clio" was severely damaged by a sunken rock and had to run ashore for safety, but the party was rescued from what might soon have become a precarious position by Dr. Hector—who was also on board—making the difficult circuit by way of Martin's Bay to Jamestown and Queens- town, and telegraphing for assistance. Since that time Bligh Sound has been more or less completely left out in the cold. Bare Cove (3,230 feet), Rugged Peak (3,530 feet), and Mount Longsight (4,600 feet), are the lofty janiters of Bligh Sound. Milford Sound.—No arms of any importance. Harrison Cove, with Mount Pembroke (6,710 feet) at its head, is the most prominent inden- tation. George to Milford Sound by coast, twenty-four miles; length of Milford Sound, nine-and-a-half miles. This for rugged, solemn grandeur, is the finest sound of all, and is accordingly peculiarly ill-named. Pluto Sound, Imperial Sound, or, as Mr. Hingston suggests, "Rocky Sound," would be far more appropriate. Its entrance is the 226 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE most majestic, the most awe-inspiring ; and the great towering walls of rock which guard the narrow channel through which the ship passes are, with the exception of Aorangi, the highest on the coast. The great perpendicular rock on the left, near the entrance, is over a mile high above water, and lies over a mile below, no soundings having been obtainable at that depth. The heights on both sides are so stupendous that it is difficult to recognise how lofty they really are. The Lion Coiichant, the terminal spur of Mount Kimberley (2,500 feet), is a sheer rock of imposing aspect; the Nitre Peak (5,560feet), usual cloud-kissed, is one of the chief glories of the sound; but Laurenny Peaks (5,500 feet) are nearly as high. Tutoko (9,042 feet) is a giant. Sheerdown Hill, at the head of the sound, rises perpendicularly for 4,000 feet; and the Barren Ranges which adjoin it are 5,125 feet high. The Sterling Falls though dwarfed by the everlasting summits, are fine, but Bowen Falls (540 feet) after a few days' rain are magnificent. The way the water shoots out of the upper basin into the air to fall sheerdown some hundred feet is magnificent. There is an excursion which can be made in this sound to Lake Ada (3,500 feet above the sea) up the Cleddan River, but it requires two days (though only some four miles as the crow flies) owing to the difficulty of bush travelling. No tourist should go without a guide, and without materials for camping out for two nights at least. D. Sutherland, the mining prospector, who has founded the so-called "City of Milford," knows the route well. Leaving this sound the vessel usually returns to Port Chalmers, vid the Bluff. Distances: from Milford Sound to the Bluff, 217 miles ; from the Bluff to Port Chalmers, 132 miles." Sandflies.—There are no mosquitos in the sounds, but the sand- flies swarm in most of them, and are as much to be guarded against as their better-known cousins. All travellers are strongly recommended to take circular veils, good gloves, india-rubber bands to keepdown;the coat cuffs, and a bottle of concentrated lotion of equal parts acetic and carbolic acid (to be diluted to one quarter the strength at the time of using, one-sixth for ladies). Ammonia applied to the bite at once is also good, arid arnica may be used very diluted on the hands. Men have frequently looked upon these precautions with disgust as quite unnecessary, and have repented voluminously later. The sting feels like a prick at first and then there is no more pain for about three days. The spot punctured then begins to swell, and the irritation sometimes lasts for days, especially if there are several near the same spot. A good veil completely covering the head like a bee dress, and good gloves, totally prevent any serious unpleasantness, and happily it is only the shores of the sounds that are infested with them, and even there only in places, and very few come off to the ship, so that these precautions are only necessary when going on shore. WESTPORT (Nelson Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—A town on the Buller River, the entrance to which is being much im- proved. It is about forty miles north-east of Greymouth, and the centre of an extensive country of the finest coal as well as scattered aurifer- ous districts. Communication by land with Nelson and Greymouth, Special Note for Tourists.—The best months for the Sounds for fine weather are said to be from March to July, and often August and September. TO NEW ZEALAND. 227 and by sea with Wellington and all parts of the country. Will be connected with the projected Midland Railway when that is made, and by it with the general railway system of the South Island. Hotels: Empire, Gilmer's. Newspaper: Evening Star (daily), Buller News (daily), Times (bi-weekly), Advertiser, Buller Miner (both weekly). Banks: New Zealand, Colonial, New South Wales. Churches: Episcopal, Catholic, Presbyterian, United Free Methodist. Public and Private Schools, Literary Institute, Hospital, etc. WHAKATANE (Auckland Province), P-o; T o; M-o; S-b — Situated in the Bay of Plenty, at the foot of a range of hills rising close to the sea. The village was destroyed and the district overrun by Te Kooti in one of his raids in 1869. Grows fine crops of maize, but the land is still largely owned and occupied by the Maoris. Connected by sea with neighbouring ports, and with Auckland. Has a Public School and Library, a flour mill, etc. WHANGAREI (Auckland Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—An important township on the River Hoteo, fifteen miles from Wangarei Heads, and about eighty miles from Auckland, with which it is con- nected by steamer and by road. Is a very fine fruit district, and its limestone caves are among the natural curiosities of New Zealand. Coal and lime abundant in the district. Hotels : Commercial.Wangarei, Settlers'. Newspaper: Northern Advocate. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Wesleyan. Public School, Library, Good Templars' Hall, etc. Excursions.—There are several in the neighbourhood. Ready Tower on the gum fields. Wairua Falls, in the Wairoa River, very fine. Abbey Caves.—Fine limestone caves, with stalactite and stalag- mites. Kamo (six miles).—Soda springs, etc. (For further particulars, see Whangarei, Part II.) Fine boating excursions in the harbour, and round the heads. WHANGAREI HEADS (Auckland Province.)—Seventy miles north of Auckland, and fifteen from the Whangarei township, and situated on the east coast of the Great Northern Peninsula. A fine harbour, and a port of entry. According to Maori legend, the chief Manaia, his wife and two children, were turned into stone, and are now represented by the fantastic peaks on the hills near the entrance to the harbour. Has a Public School. WHANGAROA (Auckland Province), P-o; To; M-o; S-b — On one of the fine harbours on the west coast of the Northern Peninsula, with extensive saw-mills, and fine kauri forests in its vicinity. Was the scene of the massacre of the " Boyd's" passengers and crew in 1809, and the first place visited in New Zealand by the Rev. Samuel Marsden when he came in the brig " Active," in 1814, to establish the Church of England Mission in the country. H.M. Storeship "Dromedary" loaded spars at the bay in 1820, as related by Major Cruise, in command of the troops on board. In 1824, the Rev. Samuel Leigh established the first Wesleyan Mission in the Kaeo Valley near Whangaroa, which was destroyed, and the missionaries obliged to 228 brett's handy guide. leave, in the war between Hongi and some of the Whangaroa tribes in 1828. Full details are given in Brett's "Early History of New Zealand." Has two Churches. Hotel: Whangaroa. Public School. Excursions.—There are pleasant boating excursions about "the Heads," which are two miles' distant from thetownship, and exceedingly picturesque. There are caves in some of the cliffs, with tapu Maori skeletons, etc. Note the profiles of the Duke of Wellington and Duke of Edinburgh, which seem as though sculptured; also Peach Island, the scene of the massacre carried out by Hongi. WINTON (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Nineteen miles north-west of Invercargill, and connected with it by railway. Has four saw-mills, is a limestone country, and has fine forests. Hotels: Caledonian, Railway, Commercial, Winton. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: Episcopalian, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic. Public School, Hall, Library, Oddfellows' Hall, etc. WOODEND (Canterbury Province).—Sixteen miles from Christchurch in North Canterbury. It has an Inn, Public School, Library, Hall, etc. WOODEND (Southland Province).—A station six miles from Invercargill, on the Invercargill Bluff Railway. WOODLANDS (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Twelve miles from Invercargill, on the railway to Dunedin. It has meat-preserving works, saw-mills, dairy, factory. Hotels: Railway, Woodlands. WOODSTOCK (Westland Province).—About five miles from Hokitika Town, and on the banks of the Hokitika River. Has two Hotels, a Public School, and Presbyterian Church. WOODVILLE (Hawke's Bay Province), P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b — A small bush township ninety-five miles from Napier, and present ter- minus of the railway line to Wellington, from the capital of the Hawke's Bay Province. It is situated in the Seventy-Mile Bush, and at the junction of the Manawatu, Napier and Wairarapa Roads. The rail- way over the Rimutaka vid Masterton and Wangamahoe, as well as that through the Manawatu Gorge, will junction at Woodville. It has several saw-mills, a cheese and butter factory, and grows good hops and tobacco. It is the starting point for coaches to Palmerston and Eketahuna, the nearest stations on the railway lines to Wellington. Hotels: Masonic, Club. Newspaper: Woodville Examiner. Bank: New Zealand. Churches: United Methodist, Episcopalian, and Primitive Methodist. Services are also held periodically. Public School, Library, Public Hall, Oddfellows' and other Lodges, etc. WYNDHAM (Southland County, Otago Province), P-o ; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Twenty-seven miles from Invercargill, and connected with the railway from Invercargill to Dunedin. Coal pits are opened in the vicinity. Has a dairy, factory, an Hotel, Assembly Room, Presbyterian Church, District School, etc. Services are also held periodically by Episcopalian and Roman Catholic clergymen. PART III. (b.) PORTS OF CALL. ALBANY, ADELAIDE, MELBOURNE, HOBART, SYDNEY, BRISBANE. ALBANY, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—Is situated on the north shore of Princess Royal Harbour, between Mount Clarence on the east, and Mount Melville on the west, 216 miles south-east of Perth, the capital of West Australia, with which city it communicates by means of a main road made for the conveyance of mails, and for passenger traffic. Albany is the principal town of the Plantaganet County, and a port of call of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers carrying the Australian mails; the harbour is one of the finest on the Australian coast, and well protected from winds. The town is small and the buildings of no magnitude, the most important of them are public offices. Hotels: Weld Arms, London, and Freemasons. News- paper: Albany Mail. Banks: Branches of the National and Union Banks. Churches: Episcopal (St. John's), Wesleyan, and Roman Catholic, with a new Roman Catholic Convent, School and Chapel. Institutes: Mechanic's. Schools: Two Government, and assisted. Population, 1,024 in 1881. ADELAIDE, P-o; T-o; M-o: S-b.—The capital of South Australia, and the seat of Government, is an episcopal city on the River Torrens, about six miles east from St. Vincent Gulf, Port Adelaide being the shipping port. The city was founded in the year 1837 by Colonel Light, who named it after the Queen of William IV. The discovery of gold in Victoria somewhat retarded its growth for a time, owing to the exodus of a large proportion of its population, but with the abatement of the gold fever, the city gradually resumed a prosperous aspect, and has since continued to progress and extension. The city is nearly in the form of a square, with its streets at right angles, many of them planted with trees, and consists of two portions, North and South Adelaide, the latter being the business, and the former the residential portion. These are divided by the River Torrens, which is crossed by five massive iron bridges. Formerly 230 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE this river was a source of annoyance to the inhabitants, being only a huge channel with nothing more than a small stream in its bed at the best of times; but since the construction of a dam, it has transformed the appearance of the landscape, and now at various points of the city glimpses of a magnificent sheet of water are to be had, upon which steam launches and boats of every description are afloat; it extends for a distance of two miles. Its banks have been formed into promenade walks, and near King William Street a splendid rotunda has been placed, whence the military bands discourse good music at suitable times. Adelaide is pleasantly situated on a large plain, the Mount Lofty range of mountains, at from four to eight miles' distance, walling it in on the eastern and southern sides. The City is under Municipal Government, which it adopted in 1840. King William Street is a fine broad thoroughfare, running north and south, and contains the principal buildings. The public buildings are numerous, and comprise Parliament Houses, Government House, the Town Hall, with a fine organ, and a lofty tower (the Albert, 145 feet high), in which is a peal of eight bells; the Grand Hall is a fine apartment, 108 feet long by 68 feet broad and 44 feet high, with seats for 1,500 persons; the new Post and Telegraph Office, a very fine structure ot white freestone; the Victoria Tower, 156 feet in height; the Government Offices, the Supreme, Local, and Police Court Houses, the Houses of Legislature, the South Australian Institute. A new Institute was erected in 1879, which included a library, museum and art gallery. Hospital, St. Barnabas Episcopalian Theological College, etc., etc. The Botanic Gardens, which are beautifully laid out, occupy an area of about forty acres. In the grounds, besides fern-houses, shade-houses, and the Victorio Regia house, there is a large and handsome palm-house of glass and iron There are also Zoological Gardens, and many other objects of interest. Clubs: Adelaide, Port Adelaide, Bankers, Der Deutsche, Austral, Officers, Bohemian, and Savage. Hotels: South Australian Club, York, Globe, Clarence, Criterion, and numerous others. Newspapers: South Australian Register, Advertiser, Evening Journal, Express and Telegraph, Telegraph News, Weekly Observer, S.A. Chronicle, Christian Colonist, Lantern, Australian Shetcher, and numerous others, weekly and monthly. Banks: Bank of South Australia, Austra- lasia, Union Bank of Australia, National Bank of Australasia, Bank of New Zealand, Commercial, Adelaide, New South Wales, Chartered, etc., etc. Churches: St. Peter's Cathedral, Holy Trinity, Christ Church, St. Luke's, St. Paul's, St. John's, St. Francis, Xavier Cathedral (Roman Catholic), St. Patrick's, St. Lawrence, five Wesleyan, three Congregational, and three Presbyterian Chapels, etc. Population about 130,000. MELBOURNE, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—So named after Lord Melbourne, Premier of Great Britain at the time it was founded; is the metropolis and seat of Government of the Colony of Victoria, and is situated on the north bank of the River Yarra-Yarra. In 1836 the present site of Melbourne was known as Beargrass, and comprised about a dozen wooden buildings and huts; while at the present day, it abounds in fine edifices, which, though of recent and rapid construc- tion, are built to last. The blue stone, of which most of the large buildings are constructed, is of an almost imperishable nature. The TO NEW ZEALAND. 231 Government buildings excel those of any other city of the same size in any part of the world, although some of them—the Parliament Houses for instance—are yet unfinished. The port of Melbourne is at Sandridge (now called Port Melbourne), about two-and-a-half miles distant, situated on Hobson's Bay, and connected with the metropolis by road and railway; Hobson's Bay has accommodation for 800 vessels, and has good anchorage. Port Philip Bay extends over 800 square miles; there is also access for steamers, and vessels of large size to the heart of the city, by means of the River Yarra-Yarra, which is navigable to Melbourne. There is a good dry dock, which will admit ships of large tonnage, and a wet dock of large area is proposed with which the railway from Spencer Street is to be connected. A new channel has been cut, which shortens the distance from the mouth of the Yarra to Melbourne by over a mile. This and other works for the improvement of the river have been executed at a cost of about £1,250,000. The principal streets in Melbourne proper are one mile in length, and run at right angles to each other, and are named after Australian notables—Flinders, Collins, Bourke, Lonsdale, and Latrobe, running nearly east and west ; and the cross streets, called Spencer, King William, Queen Elizabeth, Swanston, Russell, Exhibition, and Spring, nearly north and south. In Spring Street there is a colossal group of statuary, in commemoration of the explorers, Bourke and Wills. The Yarra is spanned by several handsome bridges of both wood and iron; one of the finest is Princes Bridge, constructed at a cost of £140,000, and is a worthy approach from the southern suburbs to the city. The markets are the Eastern, more generally known as'' Paddy's'' market, rebuilt at a cost of £77,223, and now lighted by electricity at night, the Western, Victoria, the Fish, and the Hay Market. The charitable institutions are numerous; some of the principal arc—The Hospital, having 400 beds, the Benevolent Asylum for the aged and infirm, Orphan Asylum, Blind Asylum, Immigrant's Home, Alfred Hospital, Children's Hospital, and others. There are several parks and reserves for the recreation of the inhabitants; Studley, Royal (with a good Zoological collection), and Falkner Parks, and Fitzroy (area seventy acres), Carlton, the Botanical Gardens (area 100 acres), the Treasury and the Flagstaff Gardens being the principal. The northern portion of the Carlton Gardens was utilised for the purposes of the Centennial International Exhibi- tion, which was opened on August 1st, 1888; the main building and annexed cover an area of thirty-two acres. The Melbourne Race- course, with a handsome grand stand, situated at Flemington, and the Melbourne Cricket and Football ground, also possessing ah elegant and roomy stand and fine brick pavilion, are nowhere surpassed. On the cup and other principal race days, the racecourse at Flemington is thronged by a concourse of people almost rivalling that on the Epsom Downs. Much of the credit of the excellence of management at, and popularity of the Victoria Racing Club's meetings, is due to Mr. Byron Moore, the well-known secretary. Melbourne was incorporated on August 12th, 1842, and erected into an Episcopal See on August 3rd, 1849, the present bishop being the Right Rev. Field Flowers Goe. The Roman Catholic Archbishop is the Most Rev. Dr. Carr. Clubs: Australian, Melbourne, Athenaeum, all residential; Bohemian and TO NEW ZEALAND. 233 the hands of a Melbourne Syndicate, who propose constructing the lines. The streets are wide, well laid out, and intersect each other at right angles, the principal being Elizabeth, Liverpool, Collins, Macquarie and Murray. There are numerous public buildings, of which Government House (a handsome castellated pile of white freestone), the Government Offices, the Houses of Parliament (with Library of about 9,000 volumes, and specifica- tions of patents from the year 1500), the Town Hall, and the Museum are the largest. There are six Public Schools, besides numerous private ones. The charitable institutions, too, are numerous, and comprise a general Hospital, the new Town Pauper Establish- ment, averaging over 600 inmates, a Hospital for the Insane, etc., etc. The city is delightfully situated, and some grand views of land and sea are to be had. From Mount Nelson, the look-out station, one of the finest marine views may be obtained; while from Mount Wellington a still more comprehensive land and seascape repays the exertion of climbing to the summit. There are five flour mills, six jam factories, numerous tanneries, two woollen factories, a brewery, and a large iron foundry, "Derwent Iron Works," where iron ship, railway works, etc., are successfully carried on. The city is under Municipal Government, incorporated December 22,1857, the Corpora- tion consisting of a mayor and nine aldermen. There are three markets, including the wholesale fish market in Dunn Street; also spacious baths, including hot saltwater baths, with private accommo- dation for ladies and gentlemen. The Derwent is celebrated for its annual regatta, which attracts visitors from all the Colonies. Clubs: Tasmanian (resident), Hobart (non-resident). Hotels: Orient, Club, Carlton, Criterion, Ship, and several good Boarding Houses. News- papers: The Mercury and the Tasmanian News (daily), the Tasmanian Mail (weekly), besides several monthlies. Banks : Commercial Bank of Tasmania, Bank of Australasia, Union Bank of Australia, Victorian Free- hold Bank. Public Buildings : Town Hall (Library and Reading Rooms free), Museum (free), Government House, Government Buildings, Parliament Houses, Hospital, Sailors' Home. Places of Amusement: Theatre Royal, Town Hall, Exhibition Building, Mechanics' Institute. Spacious swimming baths at the Domain. Churches: St. David's Cathedral, St. Mary's Cathedral, St. Andrews Church, Memorial Church, and several Chapels, etc. Population, 28,900. Excursions are numerous all over the Colony, and people will do well to allow at least three weeks for seeing Tasmania. Through passengers by steamer having only a few hours to spend on shore, should visit the Botanical Gardens (one-and-a-half miles) on the banks of the Derwent, through the Domain (1,000 acres), and past Government House; those driving may return vid New Town (four miles). Very pleasant drives may be taken to the Fern Tree Bower (six miles) on the road to Mount Wellington (4.1(16 feet), or by the Brown's River Road (ten miles), through the suburb of Sandy Bay, and by the western shore of the Derwent. Those wishing a climb will be well rewarded by a view from the summit of Mount Nelson (1,191 feet); 'bus to Sandy Bay (three miles) every hour (fare 6d ). Tourists re- maining a few days at Hobart will have ample opportunity for enjoying themselves. A pleasant excursion is to New Norfolk (twenty-one miles) 234 brett's handy guide by rail and coach (fare 4s. single, 7s. return), or by steamer (fare 4s. single, 6s. return), thence to the Salmon Ponds and Hop Gardens (good salmon and trout fishing—license 10s ). From New Norfolk the tourist can proceed by coach to Hamilton and the Ouse Bridge (thirty-four miles, fare 9s ), through the valley of the Derwent. From Hamilton to Bothwell (eighteen miles) there is no public conveyance, but vehicles can be hired at either place. These townships being in the neighbourhood of the Lake Country, arrangements can be made by those who are prepared to undergo the fatigue of camping out, to visit the lakes where plenty of good fishing and shooting (duck, swan, and kangaroo) are to be had. To Huon and Channel Ports by coach or steamer will be found a very pleasant trip; coach starts from Hobart daily at 9 a.m. for Victoria (twenty-three miles, fare 7s.), thence to Franklin, Shipwright's Point, and Geers Town (fare 9s.). This is the great fruit-growing and jam-making district, and a visit should be made to some of the large orchards. The return journey may be made by steamer to Hobart vid several intermediate ports. Tasman's Peninsula is well worth a visit on account of its wonderful sights—the Blow Hole, Tasman's Arch, the Tessellated Pavement, and Eagle Hawk's Neck, a narrow strip of land joining the peninsula to the mainland, and which was guarded in the old convict times by ferocious dogs. The extensive range of prisons at Carnarvon ought also to be seen; this whole district of Port Arthur is intimately associated with the convict times, when Tasmania was known as Van Dieman's Land. Steamers run twice a week to and from Hobart (fares, single 7s., return 12s.). SYDNEY, P-o; T-o; M-o; S-b.—This is the capital and seat of the Government of the Colony of New South Wales, and is the oldest city in Australia. Its harbour is one of the natural beauties of the world; in extent it is unsurpassed, in its surroundings it is unrivalled, and its indescribable loveliness compels the admiration of all who behold it. Time can be well spent in visiting the various places of interest in the city, but the tourist will probably derive most pleasure from exploring the numerous coves, bays, and indentations of the beautiful harbour. St. Leonard's (or North Shore), from which the fortifications are reached, Manly Beach (the Brighton of Sydney), Mossman's Bay, Balmoral, Clontarf (where the life of the Duke of Edinburgh was attempted in 1868), Pearl Bay, etc., all claim attention and admiration. A very interesting drive is to the pretty village of Botany (eight miles), famous as being the place at which Captain Cook landed from the "Endeavour," on 28th April, 1770, and so named from the wealth of flora there. There are many delightful excursions out of Sydney to tempt the tourist, detailed descriptions of which can be obtained by applying to Thomas Cook and Son's Tourist Agency, corner of Hunter and George Streets. The principal places of interest are the Observatory (open to the public on Mondays, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.), Museum (open daily, 12 noon to 5 p.m.), Art Gallery (open every afternoon, Sundays included), Mint (admission by order from Master), Free Public Library, School of Arts, University, Techno- logical Museum (free), Zoological Gardens, etc. Places of Amusement: Theatre Royal, Gaiety Theatre, Opera House, Academy of Music. Clubs: Australian, Reform, Union, Sydney, New South Wales, and the Athenaeum. Hotels: There are a great number, among which the 236 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. the Victoria, with swing openings to allow of the passage of ships, connects North and South Brisbane, and was opened with some cere- mony by the Marquis of Normanby, on June 15th, 1874. There is frequent communication with Sydney by steamers and rail direct daily. The Botanical Gardens are laid out with great taste; they abound with tropical and sub-tropical trees, shrubs, and plants, and may be considered one of the principal " Lions" of Brisbane. The Queen's Park is a portion of the Botanical Gardens, and is used as a cricket and football ground. Other lungs of the city are Victoria and Bowen Parks; at the latter place the annual exhibitions of the Queensland National Association are held. A central market has been erected in Roma Street, nearly opposite the site chosen for the new Town Hall, and is connected with the railway. At One Tree Hill, now known by the distinguished name of Mount Coot-tha, a large area has been reserved as a public park, and is now being im- proved, and from its summit a magnificent view can be obtained. The Cemetery at Toowong, about two miles from the Post Office, is picturesquely laid out; nearly in the centre of the ground is a dome-shaped hill, the top of which is surmounted by a monument to Governor Blackall. The remains of the late Governor, Sir A. Musgrave, are entombed here. Clubs: Queensland Club. Hotels: Metropolitan, Queen's, Royal, Lennon's, Belle Vue, Imperial, Grand, and the Excelsior. News- papers: The Brisbane Courier, the Evening Observer, and the Telegraph, issued daily; besides several weeklies and monthlies, including the Boomerang. Banks: The Union, Commercial, Bank of New South Wales, Australian Joint Stock, Australian Mutual Provident, New Zealand, Colonial Mutual, Queensland National, and the London Chartered. Places of Amusement: Her Majesty's Opera House (one of the finest theatres in Australia) and the Gaiety Theatre. Population in 1886 (within five miles' radius), 73,649. 240 brett's handy guide 2 to 6 and 9 are all similar, being strongly impregnated with chlorine, which is likewise present in large quantities in the other three. No 1 also contains a fair amount of iron, and a large quantity of soda; also carbonic acid and sulphuric acid in considerable proportions, and a small amount of potash. No. 7 contains less soda, about the same amount of potash, double the quantity of sulphuric acid, but less soda and carbonic acid. No. 8 contains an appreciable amount of lime, also carbonic and sulphuric acid, much less iron, and about the same pro- portions of soda and chlorine. Cases of asthma (during the autumn months), rheumatism, gout, sciatica, skin diseases, psoriasis (autumn months), chest complaints, and insomnia have been among others successfully treated there. The Hermitage is a neat little hotel, built under the frown of Mounts Cook and Sefton, reached by coach from Fairlie Creek. The air is of the bracing nature usual in mountainous regions. THE HUTT (Wellington Province) is to Wellingtpn, from which it is eight miles' distant in a north-easterly direction, what Devon- port is to Auckland. The climate is mild and equable, less windy than the Empire City. KAMO (Auckland Province).—A small township four miles from Whangarei, and about eighty miles north of Auckland. Beyond the township are several mineral springs, mostly chalybeate in their nature, but several are also effervescent. So far the water, efferves- cent water, though possessing valuable properties, does not keep well bottled. It is pleasant to drink. Connection with Auckland by steamer to Whangarei, thence train. MASTERTON (Wellington Province) lies seventy-one miles north-east from Wellington by the Wellington- Mangamative Railway, then by coach forty miles. As a health resort it is chiefly celebrated for its cold springs, of which there are at least five recognised for their medicinal properties; they are Pahua, Akiteo, A and B, Burton's Spring, and Wallingford. Pahua is a saline spring, and contains over one-and-a-half grains free iodine to the gallon, as well as iodine in combination, and over 120 grains chloride of calcium, with phosphates and bicarbonates. Akiteo (A) is strongly saline, with strong impregnation of bromides; iodine is also present in some quantity. Akiteo (B) is strongly recom- mended for its tonic properties, being a pleasantly aerated spring, with strong impregnation of iron and sulphur. Mr. Bruck compares it " to the acidulated ferruginous waters of Recoaro (Vicenza Province, Lombardy) and Pyrmont (Waldeck, Germany). Burton's Spring and Wallingford are both cold saline.springs of lesser importance; the former is said to contain traces of arsenic. MOTUEKA(Nelson Province).—Isa small well-situated township some sixteen miles north-west of Nelson, the chief town of the province, but with a different climate. It is chiefly known for the dry- ness of its climate at all seasons of the year. The winters are occasionally cold but bracing, and in summer there is an elasticity about the air which makes it a very useful result in chest affections of certain kinds. It is backed by high mountains, in which are caves 242 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE the springs, as these waters are not good for all complaints, though highly beneficial in many.) ONETAPU (Auckland Province) is one of the most powerful springs in New Zealand. It issues from the base of Mount Ruapehu, at the source of the Whangaehu and Waikato rivers, and impregnates the river to that extent with sulphates of alumina and iron that for over sixty miles fish will not live in it. It can be reached from Wanganui by bridle track vid Kerioi; from Napier vid Taupo and Tokaanu; and from Auckland vid Rotorua or Lichfield and Taupo. ORAKEIKORAKO (Auckland Province) is a place of great interest, though but little known. There is a Maori settlement there, and it can be reached either from Rotorua, from which it is thirty miles south, or from Taupo from which it lies rather over twenty miles north, on the left bank of the splendid Waikato River. The spring of the same name is a geyser with waters strongly acid. The alum spring lies at the bottom of a deep hole (or cave) some thirty-five to forty feet deep. The Maoris are firm believers of the efficacy of both these springs in various complaints. PORUA BAY (Auckland Province).—A small but pretty bay in the Whangarei Harbour, about seventy-four miles north of Auckland, popular as a quiet summer resort for children. The climate and bathing are good. PEMBROKE (Otago Province).—At thefoot of Lake Wanaka, lies in some of the finest scenery of New Zealand. Glendhu Bay, on the western shores, some twelve miles distant, will some day be among the chief summer and winter resorts in the South Island. The climate is mild and pleasant, and generally fine and brisk in winter. Mrs. Russell's Hotel is comfortable, and the views up the lake, on which there is a capital steamer, are superb. PURIRI (Auckland Province) lies near the Waihou River, nine miles south-east of Grahamstown, the chief township in the Thames mining district. The water is well known in New Zealand, having been bottled for some time. It is cold, effervescent, largely impregnated with alkalies, and much recommended in cases of urinary and kidney troubles as well in dyspepsia. It is believed to be allied to some of the better known American springs of this type, and Dr. Bruck gives it as approaching very closely to Fachingen (Germany) waters. Q.UEENSTOWN (Otago Province) is the Lucerne of New Zealand, lying 1,070 feet above sea level in a bend on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, some 196 miles north-west of Dunedin, and 110 north-west of Invercargill. It occupies a most picturesque position in the midst of very fine scenery; its winter climate is especially celebrated, though at all seasons one usually enjoys fine weather there; the mean annual temperature is about 51° Fahr. with moderate rainfall. Most comfortable quarters can be obtained there, and it is no doubt destined, like Glendhu Bay or Lake Wanaka, to be a very popular resort some day; at present it is chiefly visited by tourists during the summer months. It forms a fine change from the seaside, and is especially recommended in lung troubles, and diseases of the digestive organs and nerves. TO NEW ZEALAND. 243 RIVERTON (Southland County, Otago Province). — A pleasant like town, some twenty-six miles west of Invercargill by rail, in a grand agricultural district. The mean annual temperature is about 1° Fahr. below that of Queenstown. The sea bathing is fairly good, and the climate good. It is becoming more and more favourable as a summer resort for the residents of Invercargill, from which it is reached by train. ROTORUA (Auckland Province).—On the southern shores of Lake Rotorua, near the ancient Maori village of Ohinemutu, and the celebrated Whakarewarewa, about 173 miles south-east of Auckland by rail and coach vid Oxford or Cambridge, on the direct coach route to Napier. For complete description of its waters, etc., see Dr. Lewis, on page 247, at the end of this part. ST. KILDA (Otago Province).—A marine suburb of Dunedin, reached by tramway, possessing a splendid stretch of beach with "surf" bathing. The sea-baths are, however, safer, especially for ladies, than bathing from the beach. SOMNER (Canterbury Province) is the favourite seaside resort for Christchurch people, especially for those who cannot manage the distance of Akaroa. Sumner is only eight miles from the Cathedral City, and is reached by train and 'bus. Moa remains have been found in a cave near the township. It makes an excellent resort from Saturday to Monday, and has at least one really good hotel. SUMNER LAKE (Canterbury Province) lies sixty miles north- west of the Cathedral City. There are some springs of a very faintly saline nature within a few miles of the lake, but they are unimportant. TARAWERA (Hawke's Bay Province) is a pretty little village on the direct route between Taupo and Napier, about fifty miles south- east of the former, and about the same distance north-west of the latter. It lies on the Waipunga Creek, at the foot of the splendid slopes of Tauranga Kuma. It possesses a cold spring, strongly im- pregnated with soda, potash, and sulphuric acid, and is said to be beneficial in the treatment of chest, throat, and lung troubles. TAUPO (Auckland Province), otherwise known by the with- difficulty-pronounceable name of Tapuaeharuru, lies about 100 miles north-west of Napier, and some 223 south-east of Auckland, at the point where the noble Waikato flows from the north-eastern end of Lake Taupo. Its altitude is 1,500 feet above sea level. It is one of the richest of all the places in the Thermal district in springs, although the actual number of the springs is not known. Within the space of a mile round Joshua's Spa (two miles from Taupo) there are about twenty, and sources of totally different characters flow into the same channel that passes through the Sana- torium Grounds. Some of these, notably the Cold Stream, McPher- saline, contain but a very feeble amount of mineral matter to the gallon in comparison to others, none of them having more than seventeen grains; but there are sulphurous and other springs within a few yards of those of the "Oil Bath" and "Madame Rachel" son's Spring, and the Warm Sj alkaline; and the Kokowai Spring, 244 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE (see Rotorua, page 67) nature, the latter with arsenical traces. There are several springs known as Otumahika, one of an alkaline nature, and at least three of a sulphurous character, with a good deal of silica present. It would be a good thing if the various springs of the district had more distinctive names. There are two A C Baths at Waipahihi, both of a saline nature; another of an alkaline nature, containing a quantity of silicic acid, is known as the Ti-tree Spring; and there is also a saline stream. There are two Rotohawa springs, one with water of a dark colour, the other of a yellowish hue, and both are acid to the taste. The Parkes Spring^is slightly effervescent and cold, of an alkaline nature. The Crow's Nest and Ruahine Spring in the same locality are both of a saline nature; while the waters of McMurray's Bath and Waipahahi Spring, which sum up the notable springs of the district, are both of a sulphurous character. Joshua's Spa, conducted on Continental style, is the most suitable residence for patients taking the waters and baths. TE AROHA (Auckland Province).—Can be reached from Auckland direct by rail vid Morrinsville, distance about 126 miles in a south-westerly direction, or by steamer to Thames, thence by coach or river steamer, thirty-six miles. For further particulars, vide Dr. Lewis's Medical Notes. TIKITERE.—A group of acidic and hepatic springs, some ten- and-a-half miles to the eastward of Rotorua. There are several boiling springs, and a hot waterfall. Accommodation can be had in a raupo whare (hut) kept by McRory. Milk and meat can be procured at the only farm in the neighbourhood, which, fortunately, is not far away. TIMARU (Canterbury Province) is a pleasant little town, some 100 miles south-west of Christchurch by rail, and 130 miles north of Dunedin. It has a very fine climate, invigorating and cool. Like Oamaru it makes a pleasant change in summer from the North Island towns. TE KOOTI (or KUTE), or the "Great Spring," is a muddy brown colour, and contains a large amount of sulphuretted hydrogen. It is very valuable for chronic rheumatism, both articular and muscular, as well as sciatica, and certain skin diseases. TE MIMI is the hot waterfall. It is the overflow of several springs near Rotoiti Lake, and is similar to the "Great Spring," but less concentrated. Its temperature is less, varying from 90° to 112°, while the Great Spring varies from 100° to 212° Fahr. WAIKOUAITI (orHAWKSBURY), (Otago Province).—Apleasant little watering place, about thirty-two miles north of Dunedin by rail, on the east coast of the South Island, not far from Moeraki, known for its curious boulder formations, which are found in the cliffs fringing the coast, and which lie along the shore. WAIRAKEI (Auckland Province).—A spot greatly celebrated for its geysers and hot springs, situated eight miles from Taupo, near the Waikato River. There are probably more wonders in a hundred TO NEW ZEALAND. 245 yards of gully at Waitakerei than many similar sized pieces of territory in New Zealand; among others, there are two important springs for sanitary purposes: Te Huhahuka, of which the waters are strongly impregnated with sulphur; Piroirori, or white water, of an alkaline nature. The whole region, however, is full of various springs, and people staying at the Homestead, or Geyser Hotel as it is more pretentiously called, can take the waters. Baths (open air) have been constructed for this purpose. WAIUKU (Auckland Province).—A small fruit-growing and dairy farming township on the southern shores of the Manukau Harbour, some thirty-two miles from Onehunga by steamer. It lies in pleasant scenery, and is known for its mild and healthy climate. There is also connection with Auckland by rail to Pukekohe, thence boat. WAIWERA (Auckland Province).—A pleasant watering place some twenty-four miles to the north of Auckland. Communication with Auckland almost daily by rail and coach. The German village settle- ment of Puhoi is within a pleasant drive, and likewise Orewa, well- known for its fine beach. Mahurangi Heads are celebrated for their scenery, and the creek at Waiwera itself is pretty and good for boating and bathing purposes. There are three kinds of bathing possible at Waiwera, that mentioned above in the river, secondly in the sea, and thirdly in the Hot Springs. The water of these springs has been highly recommended for internal use in cases of rheumatism and dyspepsia, having a mild antilithic action. They are of a saline and alkaline nature, but somewhat feebly so, chloride and bicarbonate of soda being the chief ingredients. WHAINGAROA (Auckland Province).—A small township on the Whaingaroa Harbour, not far from the temperance settlement of Raglan, and about 100 miles in a south-westerly direction from Auck- land. The climate is mild and equable. There are several hot springs strongly impregnated with sulphur in high repute among the Maoris a few miles distant from the most inland point of the harbour, but so far but little has been done to develop them; in fact the whole province is so rich in these hot springs, that unless some great cure is effected, or some special virtue reported, the springs in outlying localities receive but scant notice. Their number in fact is bewildering, and just as in the Pyrenees, one finds such a number of baths in all the spas, that one hardly knows which to try here in New Zealand. One finds so many places that could be turned into spas with a little capital, that one hardly dares to venture with any for fear some better springs may be found close by and the venture hid in loss. It is actually distrust- ing financial " hot water." WHANGAROA (Auckland Province).—A township and port on the beautiful Whangaroa River, some 169 miles north of Auckland, and forty-one miles north of Russell. It has a pleasant climate all the year round, and lies in the garden district of the North Island, the fruit- grower's paradise. * Vide " 'Twixt France and Spain," or " A Spring in the Pyrenees," by the same author. London: 1883. Sampson Law, Marston and Co. 246 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE WHANGAPE (Auckland Province).—A small township in the southern Waikato, about 220 miles south from Auckland, possessing a hot alkaline spring, similar to that of Puriri. It is reached either from Auckland or Tauranga. WHANGAREI (Auckland Province).—A well-situated township, some seventy-five miles north of Auckland, with which it is connected by steamer (bi-weekly). There are some fine falls and limestone caves (the Abbey Caves) in the vicinity, and near Kamo (vide page 240) are several coal iron springs, both still and effervescent. It is the centre of a fine fruit-growing country, and has a good climate, though rather warm in summer. WHANGAREI HEADS (Auckland Province).—A fine bracing locality at the entrance to the harbour of Whangarei, where there are a few houses open to receive visitors. It is an exceedingly popular place with visitors fond of fresh air and sea bathing. The living is plain but good, and the climate capital. WHITE ISLAND lies sixty miles east of Tauranga, in the Bay of Plenty. It is a cone shape island, the remains of a huge volcano now extinct. The crater is about half-a-mile wide, with steep sides varying from about 400 feet to 800 feet in height, and contains a lake of mineral water into which various geysers and boiling springs pour their waters. These waters are strongly acid to the taste, and deposit sulphate of lime, the vapour condensing into deposits of pure sulphur. The waters are of very great strength, and one contains over 1,800 solid grains of mineral matter to the pint; another, suitable for medical purposes, contains about twenty-six grains to the pint. The temperature of both reach to boiling point, or very near it. WICKLIFFE BAY (Otago Province) is a little place at Cape Saunders, some twelve miles north-east of Dunedin. It possesses a spring of a saline character, impregnated with sulphuric and carbonic acids, chlorides, and alkalis. TO NEW ZEALAND. 247 MEDICAL NOTES ON THE THERMAL SPRINGS OF ROTORUA, WHAKARE- WAREWA, AND TE AROHA. BY Dr. T. HOPE LEWIS, M.R.C.S., Eng. ROTORUA DISTRICT (including Ohinemutu).—The mineral waters of this Thermal District are classified as follows:—1. Saline; 2. Alkaline Silicious; 3. Hepatic or Sulphurous; 4. Acidic. An extended analysis of a type of each class is given with the therapeutic notes. The Hot Springs of Rotorua and district have now been known long enough to form some definite idea of their medicinal value, and having had three years' residential experience of them, and four years' subsequent study in Auckland of cases specially treated by courses of bathing at Rotorua, I will sketch in as condensed a form as possible the therapeutic uses of the various types of waters. Therapeutic Notes. 1. Saline.—Hinema.ru. Character of water, saline with silicates. Reaction, alkaline. Analysis—Grains per Gallon. Chloride of sodium 93-46 ,, potassium 4-69 ,, lithium Traces Sulphate of soda 2 76 Mono-silicate of soda 6'41 Silicate of lime 2-89 ,, magnesia 1'02 Iron and aluminium oxides 2-10 Silica 8-29 12162 Temperature, 98° to 118° Fahr. This yellowish water, which issues from under a large boulder of silicious rock near the edge of the lake, has proved of some value in chronic eczema and rheumatism. It would be useful, if obtained pure and then filtered, in dyspepsia, and in that state of the system known as " passing gravel." 248 brett's handy guide 2. Alkaline Silicious.—Whangapipiro, commonly known as Madame Rachel's Bath; saline water with silicates. Reaction, alkaline. Analysis—Grains per Gallon. Chloride of sodium 69'4S „ potassium 8-41 lithium Traces Sulphate of soda H'80 Silicate of soda 18-21 '„ lime 424 „ magnesia l~dQ Iron and alumina oxides 2 41 Silica 5-S7 110-46 Carbonic acid gas 8-79 This is the commonest type of mineral water at Rotorua, and examples of it are found in "Rachel," "The Blue Bath," "Lake House Clear Bath," " Morrison's Bath," " Scott's Bath," "Tapui te Koutu." The diseases which have received most benefit from these waters are psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, gout, and uterine complaints. It is essentially a soothing and emollient water, rendering the skin soft and smooth. Taken alone these baths are enervating in distinct contrast to the acidic waters, which are bracing to the system, and irritating to the skin. The alkaline-silicious waters are suited for internal adminis- tration in moderation, and are mildly aperient and diuretic. The silicates have the power of eliminating aric acid from the system, thus proving useful in gout. This is by far the most luxurious water that Rotorua can offer to the tourist, and when taken as a bath for pleasure should invariably be followed by a cold shower or pail douche. The marvellous curative property of this water in cases of inveterate psoriasis has been well proved. Cases that have resisted all treatment by drugs have been completely cured by these waters, but necessarily the course must be a prolonged one. 3. Hepatic or Sulphurous.—Te Kauwhanga, the Painkiller, saline and hepatic. Analysis—Grains per Gallon. Chloride of sodium 46-42 ,, potassium 1-71 ,, calcium 2-66 ,, magnesium l-47 „ iron and aluminium 4'22 Sulphate of soda 29'14 Hydrochloric acid 6'84 Silica 1802 110-48 Sulphuretted hydrogen 4-84 The prominent character of these waters is the presence of sulphuretted hydrogen and sulphurous acid, and the class is represented by " Cameron's Bath," " Painkiller," and " Coffee Pot." They are specially useful in the treatment of chronic rheumatism and parasitic diseases of the skin, and are not fitted for internal administration. These waters are very strong, and a considerable TO NEW ZEALAND. 249 quantity of gas is usually present near the surface of the springs. Caution must be used in bathing as fainting has been induced by the gas whilst bathing. 4. Acidic.—Te Pupunitanga, commonly known as the Priest's Bath; aluminous and strongly acid. Reaction acid. Analysis—Grains per Gallon. Sulphate of soda 19 24 „ potash Traces „ lime 7'41 „ magnesia 3-03 alumina 21-67 iron 1-24 Sulphuric acid 2212 Hydrochloric acid 365 Silica 18-41 * 96-77 Sulphuretted hydrogen '2-98 Carbonic acid gas 2'16 In these waters there is an excess of acids, such as hydrochloric and sulphuric acids. This class is represented by the now world-famous "Priest's Bath," "Ariki kapa kapa," "A"and"B," commonly known as " Jack's Bath," and " Waihunuhunukuri B," the muddy bath at Lake House. The diseases most benefitted by this water are gout, rheumatism, parasitic diseases of the skin, obesity, congestion of the liver, sciatica, piles, certain uterine diseases, debility from climatic influences, and under proper medical guidance, convalescence from almost any acute diseases. There are also many complaints which cannot be tabulated here, which are materially benefitted by a course of this water com- bined with medical treatment. It is not too much to say that the Priest's Bath is one of the most valuable springs in the world. The water is a most powerful skin irritant, and should be avoided in skin affections of an irritable nature, such as eczema. Some persons can take, the Priest's Bath with impunity, - but I must record my opinion that this water, more than any other, requires skilled medical advice before indulging in a course of bathing if desired to produce a beneficial effect. A well-directed course of bathing in this spring improves the whole of the digestive and assimilative system. It is a decided tonic, and of the greatest value in bracing up a constitution that has been overworked and overstrained by the breakneck pace at which some ppople live nowa- days. It would be impossible to give advice as to the bath routine in cases of disease in such a short sketch as this: but a few words to the hale and hearty tourist, and to the valetudinarian may prove service- able. Do not take a hot bath before breakfast, unless you wish to feel languid for the remainder of the day; before going to bed is the best time for a hot bath. Do not bathe in every spring you see. Try a "Priest's Bath" for inquisitiveness sake; but for pleasure take "Rachel," or the "Blue Bath." Travellers who have anything like a weak chest, should never take a hot bath, but only a tepid one. Bleeding from the lungs has often been induced by taking a hot bath. The word hot is used in contradistinction to warm and tepid. Head- ache and fainting are often induced by too much active muscular 252 brett's handy guide Turikore, or the " Spout Bath."—This bath is the only specimen of the chlorinated waters of which I have had any experience, and is one of the most valuable baths in the district. Turikore may be described as a warm waterfall, which is formed by the admixture of hot water from a number of boiling springs of constant activity and a stream of cold water from another source. These waters blending are conducted in a rude channel to the edge of a large warm pool, which has a communication with the Puarenga River (cold), so that in this manner one can first indulge in the hot douche, then swim across the warm pool into the cold river beyond.* This bath has had the reputation amongst the Maoris of curing certain skin diseases, and my experience has proved this to be a fact. The value of the hot douche (which is used so extensively on the continent, especially at Aix-les-Bains, where it forms one of the principal modes of treatment) is very great, and here one has supplied by nature and so little aided by art a most perfect douche, and, I may say, massage combined. Dr. Vintras, in his most valuable book entitled "Mineral Waters of France," at page 25, says: "The use of douches depends much more on the indication to be fulfilled than on the quality of water used, and the percussion and temperature have a much more important action than the constituents of the mineral water." Douches may be used in two forms, local and general. As a specimen of the local action of a douche may be mentioned the treatment of lumbago, which is commonly a form of muscular rheumatism. The heat and percussion of the douche acting on the muscles of the loins generally results in a cure, even after the case has become very obstinate. Some very bad cases of lumbago, which were contracted in damp mining localities, have been treated with most satisfactory results at Turikore. Local palsy of one or more muscles, such as occurs sometimes after an injury, has been much benefitted by a course of this douche. This bath is adapted for chronic rheumatism in almost all its forms. Care must be taken that the douche be not employed recklessly, as it is a very powerful remedy. The only drawback to this bath is the want of power in regulating its temperature. This is, however, only a matter of time; for when occasion warrants it, art can overcome that difficuly very easily. I am glad to say that the Maoris at this place take great interest in the patients who rent their whares and live amongst them for the benefit of the baths. They are most facile in the handling of cripples, and can be engaged in such cases to be always in attendance during the bath. Korotiotio, or the "Oil Bath."—This is a strong boiling spring, having a temperature of 214° Fahr., surrounded by silicious rock, on which are beautiful sulphur incrustations; the spring supplies two or three pools in which bathing can be performed. The water is distinctly alkaline or slightly caustic, which is pro- bably the reason for its being termed an oil bath. It is particularly adapted for the treatment of cutaneous diseases, and is distinctly * This should never be attempted alone, even by the most robust, as active exercise in hot water is most exhausting, and fainting is easily induced. It is always best to take a Maori with you if you are desirous of indulging in this pleasant though somewhat hazardous pastime. Anyone at all weakly should never go out of his depth in hot water. 254 brett's handy guide MEDICAL NOTES ON THE THERMAL SPRINGS OF TE AROHA. The springs of Te Aroha are gaseous sodio-bicarbonated, and resemble those of Vichy on the banks of the Allier, France, which is one of the most important Thermal Stations in that country. There are at Te Aroha eighteen springs of which fifteen are thermal, and with the exception of Nos. 16 and 17 are alkaline in re-action, and containing carbonate of soda in considerable quantities. Carbonic acid gas is constantly escaping from the springs in large quantities. The following analysis of the waters was made by Mr. J. A. Pond, Colonial Analyst. The temperatures ranged from 105" Fahr. to 119° Fahr. Analysis. No. 1 No. 2 Drinking Bath. Bath. Spring. Sulphate of lime 2989 2228 2-989 Sulphate of magnesia •878 -886 -602 Sulphate of potash 10 298 9800 10-794 Sulphate of soda 27546 28 056 25-438 Chloride of sodium 78514 72 072 77-748 Bicarbonate of soda 728-787 698-518 682123 Carbonate of ammonia ... 8-556 112 -980 Carbonate of iron 042 068 -042 Carbonate of lithia (heavy traces) Phosphate of soda 2 063 2-208 1-696 Phosphate of alumina 143 -023 -476 Silica 8-568 8-778 8-778 Sulphuretted hydrogen .. traces traces traces Total solid matter 857-829 822-184 811-702 Results expressed in grains per gallon. These waters are fitted both for internal and external use. The Domain Board, in which the Hot Springs Reserve is vested, has furnished excellent bathing accommodation in the time, and with the funds at its disposal, and the charges for baths are very moderate, as follows:—Nos. 1, 4, 5, 6, fourpence; No. 2, sixpence. Private baths, No. 3, one shilling, by taking one dozen tickets this rate is reduced by one-half. The baths are open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. in summer, and from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. in winter, the hotel accommodation is very good and contiguous to the Domain. The waters which have been rendered available for bathing in are so nearly alike in composition though not in tempera- ture, that it will be convenient to discuss their therapeutic value as a whole, reserving the question of heat to the end of the description. The diseases treated at Te Aroha are numerous, and are either chronic or the result of delayed convalescence. TO NEW ZEALAND. 255 A flections of the digestive organs.—The waters have proved efficacious in dyspepsia with acidity, foul eructations and flatulence, chronic gas- tritis, dysentery and long-standing diarrhoea, with the localised con- gestions which so often accompany them. The treatment consists in the internal administration of Nos. 8 or 15 according to circumstances, and bathing in Nos. 1, 2, 4, 5, or 6 regulated also to the particular case. Liver complaints with or without calculus.—These waters render the bile more fluid, and stimulate the liver cells exciting the circulation in the capillaries to greater activity. They are tonic and resolvent. It has been proved experimentally that the formation of gall stones results from a want of alkalinity in the bile, and these waters should act well by supplying to it the alkaline matter in which it is deficient. Gravel and the uric acid diathesis.—The waters are pre-eminently fitted for the treatment of this most common affection. Benefit is ex- perienced after a few doses of the water. The uric acid combines with the soda to form urate of soda, which salt passes away freely in the urine. This condition is frequently associated with rheumatism and some forms of gout, and the waters act beneficially in both com- plaints. Gout.—These waters are only suited for gouty subjects to use between the attacks. Used when gout is in even a subacute form, they only aggravate the disease, and great caution must be employed in their external as well as internal use in this disease. Medical advice is necessary. Rheumatism.—Some cases of this common complaint receive benefit from the waters, others do not. In delayed convalescence from acute rheumatism the waters act well and rapidly under proper guidance. In chronic rheumatism and the complaint known as "rheumatic gout" there is great variation in the curative power of the waters, and it is in the haphazard selection of cases for treatment at Thermal Springs that injury is done to the good name of a sana- torium, and disappointment is caused to the patients. Many cases that have come under my notice that have been strongly recommended by well meaning friends, are totally unfitted for treatment by thermal springs, and much time and money might have been saved by simply consulting a medical man before going to Te Aroha, not to mention the disappointment at no good result after perhaps a two months' residence at the locality. Uterine Affections.—Certain uterine troubles are much benefitted by the use of these waters, but of necessity the exact application must be left to the directions of a competent medical man. Shin Diseases are often materially helped towards cure by com- bining a course of these waters with treatment by medicine. Some excellent results in psoriasis and eczema by the combined treatment have been noted. During the last four years, I have had the opportunity of sending a large number of patients to Te Aroha, and I have adopted the plan of treatment recommended by Drs. Vintras and Leon Blanc, and would here acknowledge to the former the help I have received from his works in formulating the list of diseases that are capable of relief by the judicious use of the Te Aroha Springs. There are a number of other affections which can be benefitted by these waters, such as 256 brett's handy guide. delayed convalescence from typhoid and other fevers, old joint sprains, chronic ulcers, and certain bladder tronbles. The baths are taJsen at temperatures varying from 82° Fahr. to 112° Fahr. I mnst here note that No. 2 Bath, which has a temperature of 112° Fahr., should be used with the greatest caution, and only under medical advice. It is absolutely injurious to many. The best temperatures for an ordinary- hot bath is about 102J Fahr. When it is advised to take a bath of high temperature, such as 104- to 106- Fahr., the duration of the bathing must be short, say five to ten minutes; when at a temperature of 100' to 101° Fahr. one may stay in thirty to forty minutes. Various "doses" of bathing are suited to the therapeutic effect that it is desired to gain in different complaints. The baths are taken one, two, or three times a day, according to circumstances. Nos. 8 and 15 are respectively aperient-diuretic and astringent in character, and the dose of the former should be limited to six or seven tumblers a day, in most cases less. It is needless to remark that diet forms an important element in the course of treatment, and it is with much pleasure that I can personally testify to the excellent and varied tables that are kept by the hotels, at what I have but little doubt will, ere long, become one of the most pleasant Health Resorts in this favoured district of a favoured country. TO NEW ZEALAND. 259 SKELETON ROUTES IN NEW ZEALAND. The change in the external communication and the development of the Colony, which have naturally been largely dependent the one on the other, have brought about great changes in the internal communica- tion as well. There are now 1,762 miles of railway in the Colony open for traffic, and numerous good roads joining the towns unconnected by rail, while the splendid service of coastal and intercolonial steamers maintained by the Union S.S. Company, makes communication between the various ports exceedingly easy and frequent. These steamers, as already mentioned under routes to New Zealand, run regularly from Melbourne to Bluff, weekly in fact, thence vid Port Chalmers, Lyttelton, Wellington, Napier and Gisborne, to Auckland, and thence to Sydney. Then return from Sydney vid Auckland, and the other ports to Bluff, and thence to Melbourne fortnightly from April to December, and generally weekly from December to March. Other steamers of the same fleet leave Wellington for Melbourne vid Southern ports, at intervals; and others again leave Sydney for Wellington, and proceed vid southern ports to Melbourne. In addition to these the smaller vessels of the fleet keep up constant communication on both east and west coasts with the various ports. There is a weekly service, Auckland vid east coast to Gisborne, Napier, Wellington, for cargo purposes, and steamers bi-weekly from Onehunga (Auckland's harbour on the west coast, seven miles distant from the city) to New Plymouth, Wellington, and Nelson. Tri-weekly between Wellington and Lyttelton; weekly from Wellington to Hokitika, and ports on west coast of South Island ; bi-weekly Wellington to Picton, also weekly Wellington to Blenheim. A general weekly service joins Wellington with Lyttelton, Timaru, Oamaru, and Dunedin, and additional vessels run from Grey- mouth to Dunedin vid Timaru and Oamaru, and the steamers for Sydney, after leaving Auckland, call at Russell. The other northern ports are served by the Northern S.S. Company. Boats leave Auckland bi-weekly for Tauranga, likewise for Whangarei and Waipu; weekly for Opotiki and Whakatane, as also for Russell, Whangaroa, and Mongonui; and on the west coast from Manukau (Onehunga) to Hokianga, and from the same port twice weekly to New Plymouth, and Waitara or Wanganui. In addition to these, several firms have small vessels engaged in coastal trade, mostly colliers; so that it will be seen that the Colony is well served with steamer communication. Wellington can be reached from Auckland in twenty-eight hours; Lyttelton in two-and-a-half days; Dunedin in three-and-a-half days; and the Bluff in four-and-a-half days, supposing that every connection fits in; but from Auckland to the Bluff in six days, is an average time to allow. 26o BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE THE NORTH ISLAND. 1. —Auckland to Russell direct. 2. —Auckland to Russell vid Hokianga, Rawene, Horeke, Kawakawa, and Opua. 3. —Auckland to Whangarei direct. 4. —Auckland to Whangarei as per route 2 to Russell, thence to Whangarei (special trip). 5. —Auckland to Whangarei as per route 2 to Kawakawa, thence coach vid Kamo. 6. —A uckland to Whangaroa and Mongonui direct vid Russell. 7. —Auckland to Whangaroa and Mongonui as per route 2 to Russell, thence steamer. 8. —Auckland to Wellington (overland) vid Oxford, Rotorua, Taupo, Tarawera, Napier, Woodville, Manawatu Gorge, Palmerston, and Parkakariki. 9. —Auckland to Wellington (overland) vid Lichfield, Taupo, and thence as per route 8 10. —Auckland to Wellington (overland) vid Cambridge, Rotorua, Taupo, and thence as per route 8. 11. —Auckland to Wellington (overland) as per routes 8, 9, or 10, to Woodville, thence vid Forty-Mile Bush, Mangamahoe, Masterton, and Rimutaka Railway. 12. —Auckland to Wellington vid Thames, Te Aroha, Morrinsville, Oxford or Lichfield to Taupo, and thence as per routes 8, 9, 10, or 11. 13. —Auckland to Wellington vid Tauranga, Rotorua and Taupo, thence as per routes 8, 9, 10, or 11. 14. —Auckland to Wellington by steamer vid Gisborne and Napier. 15. —Auckland to Wellington by rail to Onehunga, steamer to New Plymouth, thence rail vid Palmerston. 16. —Auckland to Wellington as per route 15 to New Plymouth, thence by sea. For amplifications vide Tours. SOUTH ISLAND. 17. — Wellington to Picton direct. 18. —Wellington to Blenheim direct. 19. —Wellington to Blenheim vid Picton, rail thence. 20. — Wellington to Nelson vid Picton. 21. — Wellington to Nelson vid Picton, rail to Blenheim, thence coach vid Havelock. 22. —Wellington to Christchurch direct by sea to Lyttelton, thence rail. 23. —Wellington to Christchurch by routes 18, 20 or 21, to Nelson, thence coach vid Inangahua Junction, and Reefton to Greymouth, coach or tram to Kumara, thence coach to Springfield vid Otira Gorge, train from thence. 24. —Wellington to Christchurch vid Foxhill, Motueka Valley, Rain- bow Flat, Tarndale, Jollies Pass, Hanmer Plains, on horseback, thence by coach to Christchurch. TO NEW ZEALAND. 26l 25. —Wellington to Christchurch, as per route 24 to Hanmer Plains, thence vid Waiau, Hurunui, Waipara Creek, and Kaiapoi. 26. —Wellington to Hokitika by steamer vid Nelson and Greymouth. 27. —Nelson to Westport, as per route 23 vid Lyell to Inangahua Junction, thence vid Blackwater, Hawke's Craig and Ohika. 28. —Nelson to Westport by steamer direct. 29. —Nelson to Hokitiha, as per 23 to Greymouth, thence by coach or 'bus to Hokitika. 30. —Hokitiha to Christchurch vid Kumara, Springfield, and Otira Gorge. 31. — Christchurch to Dunedin direct by steamer vid Port Chalmers. 32. —Christchurch to Dunedin direct by rail vid Ashburton, Timaru, Oamaru, Palmerston, and Blueskin Cliffs. 33. —Dunedin to Bluff direct by steamer. 34. —Dunedin to Bluff direct by rail vid Milton, Balclutha, and Invercargill. 35. —Dunedin to Invercargill vid Gore and Lumsden. 36. —Dunedin to Invercargill vid Lawrence, Cromwell, Pembroke, Crown Range, Queenstown, steamer to Kingston, rail thence vid Lumsden. 37. —Christchurch to Invercargill vid Timaru, Fairlie Creek, Tekapo, Pukaki (for Mount Cook), Ohau, Amarama, Pembroke, and thence as per 34. N.B.—The Ohau River requires bridging to make this route satisfactory. 38. —Christchurch to Milford Sound, as per route 35 to Pembroke, thence vid Crown Range and Arrowtown to Queenstown, thence steamer to Kingston, rail to Lumsden, coach to Lake Te Anau, steamer to head of lake, thence on foot vid Sutherland Falls (1,904 feet) to Milford Sound. 39. —Christchurch to George Sound, as per route 36 to Lake Te Anau, thence to head of North-west Arm, thence to George Sound. 40. —Christchurch to Doubtful Sound, as per route 36 to Lumsden, thence by coach vid Centre Hill to Lake Manipouri, thence to head of lake and overland to Hall's Arm. N.B.—No. 36 is a possible route at present ; when the Ohau is bridged, and the track from head of Lake Te Anau to Milford widened it will be simple. Nos. 37 and 38 are not yet practicable, but there are hopes of their being so at an early date. CROSS ROUTES (NORTH ISLAND). 41. —Wanganui to Taupo vid Kerioi and Tokaanu (vide Wanganui, Part III). 42. —Wanganui to Auckland by canoe trip, Wanganui River to Taumaranui, thence on horseback to Te Kuiti, thence rail. SOUTH ISLAND. 43.—Palmerston to Cromwell, rail to Dunback, thence coach vid Naseby. 262 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE TABLE OF DISTANCES BY SEA. NORTH ISLAND. Mongonui Whangaroa Russell Russell Russell Marsden Point Whangarei Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland ... Gisborne ... Napier Wellington Wellington New Plymouth Onehunga Onehunga Onehunga Onehunga Onehunga Onehunga Rawene Helensville Onehunga Tauranga Thames (bv Waihou River) Taupo (by Lake) Russell Auckland Auckland Auckland Auckland Tauranga Gisborne Napier Wellington Wellington Onehunga Russell (Bay of Islands).. Russell (Bay of Islands).. Opua (Bay of Islands) .. Marsden Point Auckland Whangarei Auckland Kawau Waiwera Coromandel Thames Great Barrier Marsden Point Tauranga Opotiki Gisborne Napier Wellington Wanganui New Plymouth Onehunga Raglan Kawhia Helensville Dargavilie Mangawhare Rawene (Herd s Point) ... Horeke Dargavilie Whangape White Island Te Aroha Tokaanu Auckland Greymouth (t ) Tauranga Gisborne lb) Wellington (6) Gisborne Napier Wellington Lyttelton Port Chalmers (b) Taranaki 57 41 4 81 130 I8 90 33 30 42 48 57 78 133 205 290 90 250 120 200 160 75 90 100 110 110 165 6 75 160 60 50 26 128 699 183 301 564 206 175 332 185 (a) Vid French Pass. (6) Direct. (c) Vid North Cape. TO NEW ZEALAND. 263 Table of Distances by Sea.—Continued. FROM TO MILES. Taranaki Nelson 148 Taranaki Wellington (6) 172 Manakau Hokianga 147 Hokianga Horeke 24 Auckland Rawene 177 Russell Whangaroa 36 Whangaroa Mongonui 18 Auckland Whangarei 96 Russell Whangarei 82 Auckland Thames 88 SOUTH ISLAND. Lyttelton Lyttelton Port Chalmers Nelson Picton Nelson Nelson Westport Greymouth ... Nelson Akaroa Port Chalmers (b). Bluff Picton (a) ... Wellington ... Wellington (6) Westport Greymouth Hokitika Greymouth (6) (a) Vid French Pass. (6) Direct. (c) Vid North Cape. TABLE OF DISTANCES BY ROAD AND RAIL. NORTH ISLAND. For other Distances by Road and Rail, see Part III Kawakawa Kawakawa Whangarei Whangarei Maungaturoto Warkworth Warkworth Waiwera Waikomiti Railway Station Auckland Waikomiti Railway Station Horeke Whangarei Maungaturoto - - Head of navigation on Wairua River, about 2 miles below Wairua Falls Warkworth Port Albert Waiwera Devonport (North Shore) Nihoiupu Falls Waikomiti Railway Station Karakara Falls 266 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Table of Distances by Road and Rail.—Continued. MILES. Invercargill to One Tree Point ... 54 „ „ Woodlands ... Hi ,, „ Dacre ... 141 ,, „ Edendale ... 23i ,, „ Mataura ... 38 „ „ Otaraia (Accommodation House) ... 45 „ „ Kuriwao ... 58 ,, ,, Clinton (vid Main South Road) ... 61 ,, ,, Waiwera ... 68 ,, ,, Kahiku Bridges ... 78 „ Balclutha ... 82 „ „ Charlton ... 87 „ Gore ... 41 ,, „ Mandeville ... 52 ,, Riversdale ... 59 „ „ Waikaia ... 74 „ ,, Waikaia Siding ... 44 ,, „ Pukerau ... 51 ,, „ Arthurton ... 54 Waipahi Township ... 58 ,, Clinton (vid Pukerau and Waipahi) ... 69 Edendale to Wyndham Township 4 „ „ Pine Bush (Hotel and Post and Telegraph Office) ... 17 „ „ Footrose ... 26 ,, „ Mokoreta Township ... 16 „ „ Clinton (vid Mokoreta) ... 89 „ Waiarikiki Mimihau Junction ... 18* ,, „ Otaraia (Accomodation House) ... 21 „ „ Pukerau ... 294 Balclutha to Kaitangata 8 „ „ Puerua (Hotel and Post Office) 9 Romahapa ... 12 „ „ Owake ... 28 „ „ Catlin's River at Big Mill ... 24 „ „ Port Molyneux ... 15 ,, „ Nugget's Light House ... 23 Gore to Waikaia Township ... 16 28 „ „ Kelso ,, ,, Tapanui 82 Waipahi to Tapanui ... 14 „ „ Kelso ... 17 Fortrose to Waipapa Lighthouse ... 10 „ „ Otara Township ... 7J „ ,, Waipapa Creek (Gold Workings) ... 11 „ ,, Haldanes River (Estuary) ... 15 „ ,, Waikawa Township (vid Beach) ... 22 „ „ Tokanui Township 64 „ „ Junction of Catlin's Track 18| „ „ Tautuku River and Bay 85s „ ,, Taukupu River and Bay ... 40 „ Catlin's River (at Big Mill) ... 58 „ „ Owake Township ... 54 „ „ Niagara Township ... 21 ,, „ Waikawa Township (via Tokanui) ... 28* „ „ Waituna Lagoon (outlet) ... 10J „ ,, Bushy Point (Gold Workings) ... 14 ,, ,, Campbell Town (Bluff Harbour) ... 22 -,, Invercargill (vid Blufl) ... 89 „ Invercargill (vid Edendale) ... 494 TO NEW ZEALAND. 267 TABLE OF DISTANCES BETWEEN CERTAIN WELL-KNOWN CENTRES. Dunback Railway Station (50 miles to Dunedin) to the undermentioned places. Waihemo Hotel and Post Office.. Pigroot „ „ Kyeburn „ „ Naseby Township „ Hill's Creek „ St. Bathans „ Cambrian „ Beck's Hotel and Post Office ... Black's, or Ophir Township Clyde Township Dunback towards Naseby, vid Macraes. Macraes Township Hyde „ Kyeburn Hotel and Post Office ... Naseby Township I Miles. Naseby to— Hamilton Township Hyde, via Hamilton Township Gimmerburn School and Post Office Serpentine Diggings Naseby vid Hyde and Strath Taieri to Dunedin. Hyde Township Middlemareh Township Clark's Hotel and Post Office ... Outram Railway Station Dunedin Naseby to— Kyeburn Diggings Hotel and Post Office Livingstone Township Otekaike Railway Station -2i) si 42 60) 68 j TA 80] 88; 108 Remarks. Horse Bridge across Kye- [burn. Horse Bridge across Manu- berikia River. Good ford. Bridge across Manuherikia River. , Bridge across Taieri River, three miles from Hyde. Good ford on Taieri River. Bridge available six miles higher up river. B o C < ta a o j O 10 «/• Bridle track from Kyeburn. 268 brett's handy guide Table of Distances.—Continued. In the following table B denotes Bridle tracks „ „ C ,, Coach roads „ ,, D Dray roads on which there is no Coach running. Direction of Road. Queenstown to Glenorchy .'. „ „ (Steamer) Glenorchy to Diamond Lake „ Lennox Falls Queenstown to Fernhill (Steamer) „ Greenstone „ ,, Kinloch Fernhill to Manapouri Lake Mossburn Railway Station to Manapouri Lake Greenstone to Martin's Bay Kinloch to Routesburn Valley „ Lake Harris Queenstown to Moke Lake Queenstown to Moonlight Creek Queenstown to Arthur's Point „ Maori Point „ Skipper's Point „ Skipper's Reefs Queenstown to Branches Queenstown vid Arthur's Point to Arrowtown Queenstown to Frankton ,, Lake Hayes „ Arrowtown Arrowtown to Macetown „ Reefs Arrowtown vid Motatapu to Pembroke Queenstown to Cardrona „ Pembroke Pembroke to Matukituki Pembroke to Newcastle Hawea Lake „ Head of Wanaka Lake „ „ ,, (Steamer) Queenstown to Gibbston... „ Victoria Bridge „ Cromwell Cromwell to Bannockburn ,, Nevis... Cromwell to Lowburn „ Luggate „ Newcastle ,, Pembroke Cromwell to Clyde ,, Alexandra Cromwell to Bendigo „ Lindis River „ Sandy Point „ Hawea Flat Newcastle ... Queenstown to Kingston „ „ (Steamer) Kingston to Garston (rail) „ Nokomai Nevis {via Garston) Miles. B 85 D 29 10 B 16 12 24 30 B 68 D 37 B 64 B 10 B 18 B 8 B 10 D 4 B 15 B 19 B 24 B 28 D 11 C 4 C 8 c 11 D 8 D 12 B 36 c 25 c 41 D 9 C 4 D 10 B 38 30 C 16 21 36 D 7 D 22 C 8 C 25 C 82 C 36 c 18 c 20 c 10 c 14 c 22 c 81 c 36 B 27 D 22 18 B 25 B 40 TO NEW ZEALAND. 269 Table of Distances.—Continued. FROM TE ANAU TO MILFORD SOUND. Te Anau to Sutherland Falls 14 miles I Foot track Sutherland Falls to Milford Sound Anchorage 8 „ by land J only. r, ,, „ 6 ,, by water 28 miles. Nelson to Christchurch, vid Wairau Gorge. Foxhill - Motueka Valley, Accommodation House Junction of Road to Westland Fop House Rainbow Flat, Accommodation House ... Farndale Junction Guide and Acheron Junction Acheron and Clarence Jollies' Pass Hanmer Plains, Accommodation House... Waiau Bridge Hurunui, Hasties' Accommodation House Waiotahi River Weka Pass Hotel Waipara Creek Saltwater Creek Kaiapoi Christchurch Nelson to Reefton, via Lyell. Belgrove Motueka Bridge Motupiko Valley, Fogden's Accommodation House Hope Saddle, Edgar's Accommodation House... Hope Accommodation House Owen River Longford Fern Flat Lyell * Inangahua Junction Landing Larry's Creek ... Reefton I From place to place. 12 19 3 20 7 15 11 10 8 8 17 5 15 9 11 10 7 9 12 9 i.s 7 17 9 4 H Nelson to Westport {see above *). Inangahua Junction Berlin's Accommodation House Blackwater Hawk's Craig ... Ohika Nine Mile Ferry Westport 270 brett's handy guide TOURS IN NEW ZEALAND. (Originally compiled for " Cook's Australasian Gazette," published by Thomas Cook and Son.) GRAND CIRCULAR NEW ZEALAND TOUR—A. U.S.S. Co.; Sydney to Melbourne, excursion round ticket vid Auck- land; rail, Auckland to Oxford; coach, Oxford to Rotorua; coach, Rotorua to Taupo; coach, Taupo to Napier ; rail, Napier to Woodville; coach, Woodville to Mangamahoe; rail, Mangamahoe to Wellington; U.S.S. Co., Wellington to Picton and Nelson; coach, Nelson to Grey- mouth; * tram, Greymouth to Kumara; coach, Kumara to Springfield (Otira Gorge); rail, Springfield to Christchurch; rail, Christchurch to Fairlie Creek; coach, Fairlie Creek to Mount Cook and return; rail, Fairlie Creek to Dunedin; rail, Dunedin to Lawrence; coach, Lawrence to Wanaka vid Cromwell; coach, Wanaka to Queenstown vid Crown Range; steamer f Queenstown to Head of Lake and return; steamer Queenstown to Kingston; rail, Kingston to Lumsden; rail, J Lumsden to Bluff; U.S.S. Co., Bluff to Melbourne £50 5 0 * Traveller finds his own way between Greymouth and Kumara, ticket 7s. f Between the months of December and March (46 5 0 J Coach now running to Lakes Manapouri and Te Anau. Fare, Lumsden to Te Anau and back .. .. 2 10 0 Total £52 15 0 Between the months of December and March £48 15 0 Bluff to Sounds and return (U.S.S. Co.'s Excursion in January) £12 extra. SIDE TRIPS—EXTRA. From Christchurch—Coach and Rail. If for Hanmer Plains, three months' tickets; Christchurch to Culverden; Culverden to Hanmer Plains return; Culverden to Christchurch .. .. .. ..£210 Or Excursion for one month .. .. .. £1 10 0 From Hot Lakes—Buggy. Taupo to Wairakei, one person, including guide to the sights .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 15 0 If more than one, each .. .. .. .. £0 15 0 * Rotorua to Wai-o-tapu, and return next day .. .. 1 10 0 Full Board, lodging, guide, etc., one day .. .. .. 0 12 6 Rotorua to Tikitere, return, guide and toll fees included .. 0 17 0 Rotorua to Whakarewarewa, including toll and guide, each 0 7 6 £6 13 0 * Rotorua to Wai-o-tapu, returning same day, with guide fees, toll, and lunch .. .. .. .. .. 176 TO NEW ZEALAND. 27I From Queenstown— Buggy. Queenstown to Kawarau Rapids and return, each person .. 0 7 6 Queenstown to the Suspension Bridge (vid the Kawarau Falls, returning vid Arrowtown), each person .. 0 10 0 Saddle horse, Queenstown, for ascent Ben Lomond and return, each .. .. .. .. .. .. 0 10 0 Steamer. From Taupo, steamer to Tokaanu and West Bay and back, per day, for one or five ; two days required for trip £5 0 0 Six or seven, each per day .. .. .. .. .. 100 Carriage. Auckland up Mount Eden and back, landau .. .. .. 0 10 0 Auckland to Waitakerei and back, waggonette .. .. 1 10 0 Auckland to Takapuna and back, buggy and ferry .. 0 15 6 Luncheon at hotel, each .. .. 026 SPECIAL SIDE TRIPS. From Rotorua to Wairoa, horse only Rotorua to Wairoa, horse and guide, each Rotorua to Rotomohana and Tarawera vid Wairoa, guide and boat, five or more, each Horses extra, each One person ' .. .. .. £2 0 0 Two persons .. .. .. .. 3 10 0 Three persons .. ..400 Four persons .. .. .. .. 4 10 0 Horses extra, each .. .. .. .. 0 10 0 Ascent of Ngauruhoe (The Smoking Mountain), Ruapehu (The Snow Mountain). Time required, three or four days from Tokaanu. Steamer to Tokaanu and back to Taupo, for one or party up to five— One day £5 0 0 Two days 8 10 0 Three days 12 0 0 For party of six, seven, or upward, per head per day 100 Going one day, and returning after the mountain trips; for not less than five, each .. .. .. .. .. .. 200 Meal on steamer, each .. .. .. .. 0 2 0 From Tokaanu up the mountains, including provision, tents, guiding, and supplying saddle and pack horses (in fact every necessary for camping out)— For party of four and over, per head per day, each £15 0 For party under four, per head per day, each .. 1 10 0 For horses only, per day, each 0 10 0 For guide only, per day, for the party .. .. 10 0 For side trips from Glenorchy (Lake Wakatipu) and Pembroke (Lake Wanaka, see Tour 28). 0 10 0 10 0 10 0 0 10 0 brett's handy guide CIRCULAR TOUR.—B. Melbourne to Sydney, round ticket, excursion; and rest of Tour same as A, but vice versd .. .. .. .. .. £50 5 0 Between months of December and March 46 5 0 CIRCULAR TOUR.—C. U.S.S. Co. excursion, Melbourne to Auckland vid Bluff, and return to Melbourne; rail to Lumsden, and Lumsden to Kingston; steamer, Kingston to Lake Head and return to Queenstown; coach, Queenstown to Wanaka vid Cardrona; coach, Wanaka to Lawrence; rail, Lawrence to Dunedin; rail, Dunedin to Fairlie Creek; coach, Fairlie Creek to Mount Cook return; rail, Fairlie Creek to Christ- church; rail, Christchurch to Springfield; coach, Springfield to Kumara; tram, Kumara to Greymouth; coach, Greymouth to Nelson; U.S.S. Co. from Nelson vid Picton to Wellington, Wellington to Napier; coach, Napier to Taupo; coach, Taupo to Rotorua; coach, * Rotorua to Tauranga; steamer, Tauranga to Auckland; rail, U.S.S. Co., and coach, Auckland to New Plymouth, New Plymouth to Wellington (including Auckland to Onehunga, New Plymouth to Palmerston, Palmerston to Woodville, Woodville to Mangamahoe, Mangamahoe to Wellington vid Rimutaka); U.S.S. Co., Wellington to Invercargill .. .. .. .. .. .. .. /55 0 6 Between months of December and March .. .. .. 50 10 6 * If from Rotorua to Oxford, Oxford to Auckland .. 54 15 6 CIRCULAR TOUR.—D. Sydney to Hot Lakes and Taupo and Return, 22 to 25 Days. Route: U.S.S. Co.'s return excursion ticket, Sydney to Auck- land and back vid Wellington; train,* Auckland to Oxford; coach, f Oxford to Rotorua; coach, f Rotorua to Taupo; coach, f Taupo to Napier; U.S.S. Co.'s ticket, ** Napier to Wellington; U.S.S. Co.'s ticket, Wellington to Sydney £26 5 0 Between the months of December and March .. .. 21 5 0 * If from Auckland to Rotorua vid Tauranga .. .. 26 10 0 t Side trips in Auckland, Rotorua, and Taupo, as per Tour A. ** Napier to Wellington vid Woodville, Manawatu Gorge, and Palmerston, extra .. .. .. .. .. .. /2 0 0 Napier to Wellington vid Woodville, Forty-Mile Bush, and Rimutaka, extra .. .. £2 6 6 TOUR—E. (During Summer Months Only.) Melbourne to Sounds Excursion and Back. Melbourne to Bluff, Sounds Excursion, and back to Mel- bourne .. .. .. .. .. .. ..2500 TOUR.—F. Melbourne to Cold Lakes and Return. U.S.S. Co., Melbourne to Bluff and return, excursion; rail Bluff to Lumsden ; rail * * Lumsden to Kings'on; steamer Kingston to head of lake and return; coach, Queenstown to Wanaka and return to Queens- town; rail Kingston to Bluff .. £21 9 0 Between months of December and March .. .. .. 18 6 6 TO NEW ZEALAND. 277 TOUR—No. 11. Wellington to Bluff (vid Chrjstchurch and Cold Lakes.) U.S.S. Co., Wellington to Nelson; coach, Nelson to Grey- mouth; tram, Greymouth to Kumara; coach, Kumara to Springfield; rail, Springfield to Christchurch ;• rail, Christchurch to Dunedin; rail, Dunedin to Kingston (vid Waimea); steamer, Kingston to head of lake (vid yueenstown) and return to Kingston; rail, Kingston to Bluff; rail, Kingston to Invercargill; rail, Invercargill to Bluff.— Special Fare £15 10 0 Between months of December and March .. .. .. 15 7 6 TOUR—No. 12. Wellington to Christchurch (vid Hokitika and Otira Gorge). (The Harbours on the West Coast being all bar-harbours, there is risk of delay in these trips—No. 12, 13, 14.) Steamer, Wellington to Hokitika; coach, Hokitika to Springfield; rail, Springfield to Christchurch.—Special Fare .. ..£880 Price for New Zealand Tourists, 3s. 3d. extra. TOUR—No 13. Wellington to Christchurch (vid Westport and Otira Gorge). Steamer, Wellington to Westport; coach, Westport to Grey- mouth; tram, Greymouth to Kumara; coach, Kumara to Springfield; rail, Springfield to Christchurch.—Special Fare .. .. £9 15 0 Price to residents of New Zealand, 3s. 3d. extra. TOUR-No. 14. Wellington to Christchurch (vid Greymouth and Otira Gorge). Steamer, Wellington to Greymouth; Greymouth to Kumara and Springfield; Springfield to Christchurch.—Special Fare ..£850 Price to New Zealand residents, 3s. 3d. extra. CIRCULAR TOUR.—No. 15. Wellington to Cold Lakes and Return. U.S.S. Co., Wellington to Lyttelton; rail, Lyttleton to Fairlie Creek; coach, Fairlie Creek to Mount Cook and return; rail, Fairlie Creek to Dunedin; rail, Dunedin to Kingston (lid Waimera); steamer, Kingston to head of lake and return; rail, Kingston to Bluff; Bluff to Wellington.—£11 8s. 6d. By taking excursion ticket Wellington to Bluff and back (during summer months) .. .. .. £16 18 0 TOUR—No. 16. Wellington to Bluff, Coach and Rail. Wellington, Nelson, Reefton, Greymouth, Kumara, Bealey, Spring- field, Christchurch (see No. 11), £9 5s.; Christchurch, Timaru, Fairlie Creek, Mount Cook, Dunedin, Wakatipu, Invercargill, Bluff (see No. 15), less 41s. Wellington to Christchurch, £10 6s.—Special Fare £19 11 0 280 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. * Up Mount Bonpland (8,102 feet), returning by Bryant Glacier; by boat to Kinloch, thence up the Mountain—guide's fee, £1 (Harry Birley, guide). To Mount Earnslaw Glaciers, and within 500 feet of summit (9,165 feet) ; by buggy to Rees Gorge at above prices; horses thence at 10s. per day; guide's fees, £1 per day for the party. The trip takes two-and-a-half days, but to the glaciers and back one day. * Travellers staying at Glacier Hotel, Kinloch, ascend from there. J From Pembroke (Lake Wanaka). To head of lake and return next day, 30s. (by S.S. Theodore); charter per day to Weka or Pigeon Island and surroundings, £8; charter per day to head of lake or otherwise, £12; short steam on Lake after arrival of coach, 10s. each for not less than three. To Glendhu Bay and Titan's Circus—Single buggy, 15s.; double buggy, with driver, 30s.; horses per day, each, 7s. 6d. TOUR—No. 29. Lyttelton to Cold Lakes and Return. Rail, Lyttelton to Dunedin; rail, Dunedin to Lawrence; coach, Lawrence to Pembroke (Lake Wanaka); coach, Pembroke to Queens- town (vid Cardrona); steamer, Queenstown to head of Lake Wakatipu and return; steamer, Queenstown to Kingston; rail, Kingston to Lumsden; coach, Lumsden to Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri and return; rail, Lumsden to Port Chalmers; U.S.S. Co., Port Chalmers to Lyttelton £Xi 1 6 If from Lyttelton back to Lyttelton, by rail each way .. 14 5 6 If from Lyttelton back to Lyttelton, U.S.S. Co., each way 12 17 6 If from Christchurch back to Christchurch, rail each way.. 14 3 6 TOUR—No. 30. Lyttelton to Mount Cook and Return. Rail, Lyttelton to Fairlie Creek; coach, Fairlie Creek to Mount Cook and return; coach, Fairlie Creek to Lyttelton (tickets available three months) .. .. .. .. .. .. ..£610 If from Christchurch to Christchurch.. .. .. 5 19 0 Or Excursion ticket for one month, from Christchurch and back—First class 4 15 0 N.B.—Excursion fares are available three months, and are only issued during December, January, February, and March. N.B.—Special Notice.—It must be understood that these fares and prices are always subject to variation. At time of compilation they are correct, and the changes are unlikely to affect prices except in an unimportant degree. PART V T. GENERAL INFORMATION. Nature or Country—Position—Area—Population —Physical Features- Names of Counties — Urban and Rural Population — Boroughs — General Areas —Land Tenure —Conditions of Purchase—Acreage under Cultivation — Mining — Thermal Springs —Various Baths- Meteorology — Postal Information — Money Orders — Telegraphic Information — Vegetation — Minerals — Pastoral Pursuits — Wool — Frozen Meat—Animal Life—Climate—Temperature—Comparison of Climate—Rainfall— Principal Firms of New Zealand—Coach Time Table—Union S.S. Co.'s Summer Time Table. NATURE OF COUNTRY. THE discovery and first peopling of New Zealand is, traditionally, owing to the Maori race. However that may be, the country was first made known to the Europeans by Tasman, the Dutch navi- gator, in 1642. Captain Cook, the great English navigator, was the first European, in 1769, known to land in New Zealand. An account of the natives, and of the circumstances which led to the colonisation of New Zealand, has been shortly given in Part I. It is sufficient here to state that the country became a British colony in 1840. POSITION.—New Zealand comprises two large islands, the North Island, and the South Island, and a small island called Stewart Island, at the southern extremity. The Chatham Islands, and the Auckland Islands, are islets within the boundaries of the Colony. The main group, consisting of North, South, and Stewart Islands, extend in latitude from 34° 25' to 47° 17' south, and in longitude between 160° 26' and 178° 36' east, being the nearest antipodes to the British Isles. The Chatham Islands lie between the parallels of 43° 25' and 44° 20' south, and between the meridians of 176° 10' and 177° 15' west, about 365 miles eastward of Cape Palliser, Cook Strait, New Zealand. The Auckland Islands, which are uninhabited, are to the southward of New Zealand, between the parallels of 50° 30' and 51° south, and between the meridians of 165° 55' and 166° 15' east. 282 brett's handy guide AREA.—The area of New Zealand is about 100,000 square miles, or 64,000,000 acres; about one-sixth less than that of Great Britain and Ireland. The area of the North Island is about 44,000 square miles, or 28,000,000 acres. The South Island has an area of about 55,000 square miles, or 36,000,000 acres; and Stewart Island, some- what less than 1,000 square miles, or 640,000 acres. The extent of the coast line, taken altogether, is nearly 3,000 miles. There are numerous fine harbours in the three islands. Cook Strait divides the North and South Islands; and Foveaux Strait divides the South and Stewart Islands. Both straits are easily navigable. The North Island was, up to the year 1876, divided into four provinces: Auck- land, Taranaki, Hawke's Bay, and Wellington. The South (or Middle Island, as it is now generally called) was divided into five provinces: Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury, Otago, and Westland. These provinces were in 1876 divided into sixty-three counties, thirty- two in the North Island, and thirty-one in the South Island, and pro- vincial Government ceased to exist. NAMES OF COUNTIES. In the North Island, Mongonui. Wangarei. Waitemata. Coromandel. Waikato. Kawhia. Tauranga. Wairoa. West Taupo. Manawatu. Wairarapa West. Hokianga. Hobson. Eden. Thames. Waipa. Taranaki. Whakatane. Hawke's Bay. East Taupo. Waipawa. Wairarapa East. Bay of Islands. Rodney. Manakau. Piako. Raglan. Patea. Cook. Wanganui. Rangitikei. Hutt. In the South Island. Sounds. Waimea. Inangahau. Grey. Akaroa. Waimate. Waikouaiti. Lake. Bruce. Southland. Stewart Island. Marlborough. Collingwood. Amuri. Ashley. Ashburton. Westland. Maniototo. Peninsular. Clutha. Wallace. Kaikoura. Buller. Cheviot. Selwyn. Geraldine. Waitaki. Vincent. Taieri. Tuapeka. Fiord. TO NEW ZEALAND. 283 POPULATION.—The last census of New Zealand was taken on 3rd of April, 1881, with the following result:— Total persons (exclusive of Aborigines and Chinese), 489,933; of these the males numbered 269,605, and the females 220,328. At the same date the Maoris numbered 44,097, being 24,368 males, and 19,729 females; and the Chinese, 5,033, of whom sixteen were females. At the 30th June, 1884, the population of the Colony was estimated at 552,507 persons, exclusive of Maoris and Chinese. PHYSICAL FEATURES.—New Zealand is very mountainous, but it also has extensive plains, which in the North Island lie on the western side of the mountain range; and in the South Island chiefly lie on the eastern side of the mountain range. The mountains in the interior of the North Island are mostly covered with thick forest, while those in the South Island are mostly open and well grassed and used for pasture. The height of the ranges in the North Island varies from 1,500 to 6,000 feet, excepting a few volcanic mountains, viz., Ton- gariro, 6,500 feet, occasionally active; Raupehu, 9,100 feet; and Mount Egmont, 8,300 feet. The two latter are extinct volcanoes reaching above the limit of perpetual snow. Mount Egmont is surrounded by an extensive and fertile country. The most remarkable natural feature of the North Island is the district of hot springs around the lakes of Rotorua and Rotomahana. (A descriptive account of this district has been given in Part I., under the heading of the legislation, which had taken place with the object of securing the district for settlement and other beneficial purposes.) The Southern Alps are a chain of high mountain peaks running along the west coast throughout the entire length of the South Island. Mount Cook, the highest peak, has a height of 12,349 feet. Magnificent glaciers stream down its sides to the low elevation, on the west coast, of 700 feet above the sea level. Numerous sounds, or fiords penetrate the south-western coast from the sea; they are long, narrow, and of great depth; and they are surrounded by snow-capped mountains rising precipitously to five and ten thousand feet. The scenery is sublime. Stewart Island is about 120 miles in circumference; it is mountainous and well wooded; there are several excellent harbours on its eastern side. New Zealand abounds in rivers and streams. The mountains and broken country are generally clothed with fine timber, and the lowlands are commonly covered with grass or fern. The Surveyor-General reports that there were in February, 1883, thirty-four million acres of Crown land in New Zealand still remaining for disposal. Of these, he states, fifteen millions are open grass or fern country; ten millions forests, and nine millions of barren mountain-tops, lakes, and worthless country. Out of the total area of New Zealand—sixty-four million acres—he adds that fourteen millions have been sold or disposed of in reserves for educational and other public purposes; and sixteen millions belong to the Aborigines, or to the Europeans who have purchased land from them. 284 brett's handy guide POPULATION, URBAN .AND RURAL. Of the population at the time of the census, 327,328 lived in the counties or rural districts, in which are included all towns that are not constituted as boroughs; 245,612, or 42 "> per cent, lived in boroughs; 816 lived in the adjacent islands, or in the Chatham Islands; and 4,726 were on board ship. In the latter are included the crews of all sea-going vessels in port at the time, except the crews of three German warships then in Auckland Harbour. The number of boroughs in 1886 was 74. Of these :— 1 had a population exceeding .. .. .. 30,000 1 „ „ „ 25,000 1 ,, „ „ 20,000 1 „ „ „ 15 000 5 „ ,. between 5,000 and 10.000 20 „ „ „ 2,000 „ 5,000 21 „ „ „ 1,000 „ 2,000 15 „ „ „ 500 „ 1,000 9 ,, „ under 500 The principal boroughs were :— In 1881. In 1888. Auckland, with a population of .. 16,664 88,161 Wellington „ .... 20,568 25,945 Christchurch ,, .. .. 15,218 15,265 Dunedin „ .... 24,872 23,243 The increase in Auckland is partly due to the extension, since 1881, of the borough boundaries so as to include some populous parts of the suburbs. The alteration of these boundaries added a population of over 9,400 persons to the borough, consequently the comparison between the two years should be—1881, 26,083; 1886, 33,161; in order to properly compare the growth of Auckland with that of the other boroughs. After allowing for that addition, the increase of Auckland has been greatest, having been at the rate of 27 per cent. Wellington followed next, with an increase at the rate of 26 per cent., while Christchurch was almost stationary, and Dunedin retrograded. The decrease in Dunedin must not be considered as indicative of a general reduction of population in the locality, for its importance as a centre of population cannot well be considered without taking account of the suburban boroughs which practically form extensions of Dunedin, although under different names and having separate local administrations. The population of Auckland and suburbs amounted to 57,048 in 1886, against an aggregate borough and suburban popula- tion of 30,952 in 1881. The growth of population has caused a larger area to be included in the suburbs in 1886 than was included in 1381. The population of the following boroughs and read districts has been given as suburban to Auckland in 1886 :— Boroughs. Population, 1886. Newmarket 1 1,842 Newton 1,888 Parnell 4,672 TO NEW ZEALAND. 285 Road Districts. Boroughs. Arch Hill Birkenhead Devonport Eden Terrace Epsom Mount Albert Mount Eden Mount Roskill Northcote One Tree Hill Point Chevalier Remuera Total suburbs Auckland Borough Population, 1886. 1,627 668 2,650 1,587 618 1,425 3,144 485 848 772 519 1,802 Borough and suburbs The suburbs of Wellington may be deemed to include :— The Kilbirnie Road District Wadestown The Town District of Kaiwarawara Total suburbs Wellington Borough Borough and suburbs. 1,117 296 475 1.888 25,945 27,888 The suburbs of Christchurch comprise the following :— on Road District; Borough of Sydenham Borough of St. Albans Town District of Linwood Town District of Woolston Wards 1, 2, 3, and part of 4, Ave Ashbourne Ward, North Opawa Ward, Opawa Ward, part of Avon Ward, part of St. Martin's Ward,and part of Hillsborough Ward, Heathcote Road District; and the Spreydon Road District... Total suburbs Christchurch Borough Borough and suburbs 9,46.5 4,925 4,051 925 10,057 29,428 15,265 44,688 The following boroughs have been considered to be the suburbs of Dunedin :-- Caversham Maori Hill Mornington North East Valley Rosslyn South Dunedin St. Kilda West Harbour Total suburbs Dunedin Borough Borough and suburbs 45,518 286 brett's handy guide Of the sixty-five boroughs in existence in 1881, forty-six showed an increase of population in 1886, and nineteen a decrease. The fol- lowing were the boroughs in which there was an increase of population between 1881 and 1886 :— Population. 1881. 1886. Increase. Auckland * 16,664 ... 33,161 * Parnell 3,529 4,672 1,148 Onehunga 2,217 2,866 649 Gisborne 1,787 2,194 457 Wanganui ..." 4,646 4,901 255 Marton 662 908 246 Palmerston North 1,366 2,606 1,240 Wellington ... 20,568 ... 25,945 5,882 Masterton 2,241 3,160 919 Greytown 1,078 1,105 27 Napier... 5,756 7,680 1,924 Blenheim 2,107 3,094 987 Nelson... 6,764 7,815 551 Westport 1,018 1,859 846 Greymouth 2,544 8,188 589 Hokitika 2,600 2,687 87 Ashburton 1,526 1,769 243 Kaiapoi 1,221 1,514 298 Akaroa 611 662 51 Christchurch 15,218 ... 15,265 52 Sydenham 8,460 9,465 1,005 Rangiora 1,445 1,579 184 Hampden 827 882 5 West Hawkesbury 415 764 849 Port Chalmers 2,181 2,235 54 Rosslyn 2,875 8,609 784 Caversham 3,989 4,448 459 Mornington 2,886 8,834 448 Maori Hill 1,186 1,888 252 St. Kilda 778 1,078 305 South Dunedin 2,796 8,902 1,106 North-east Valley 2,754 8,221 467 West Harbour 1,218 1,295 82 Green Island 462 636 174 Balclutha 820 888 68 Lawrence 1,009 1,084 75 Roxburgh 277 828 51 Cromwell 429 504 75 Arrowtown 418 440 22 Invercargill ... 4,596 5,212 616 Invercargill North... 670 785 115 Invercargill East 785 814 29 Invercargill South 923 1,440 517 Campbelltown 851 503 152 Gladstone 268 824 56 Winton 230 290 60 The following are the boroughs in which there was a decrease of population between 1881 and 1886:— POPULATION. 1881. 1886. Decrease. Thames * 4,863 ... 4.444 ... 419 Hamilton 1.861 ... 1,201 ... 160 New Plymouth 3,310 ... 8,093 ... 217 Picton 834 ... 783 ... 101 * Or, comparing the numbers within the area of the borough as now constituted, 881, 26,083; 1886, 33,161; increase, 7,078. 288 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE Herbert 250 Herd's Point 121 Hinds 104 Howick 295 Hulltown 20 Hurunui 32 Hyde 88 Kaikoura (Kaik. Co.) 392 Kaikora (North) 544 Kakanui 178 Kakaramea 111 Kanieri 192 Kapiti 76 Karaka 151 Kawakawa 875 Kelso 150 Kennedy's 58 Kingston 49 Kurow ... 91 Leeston 488 Limehills 158 Lincoln... 286 Livingstone ... 188 Long Bush 59 Lumsden 350 Lyell 178 Macetown 101 Macrae's 152 Maheno 186 Makarewa 294 Maketu 78 Makikihi 157 Mansford 420 Manutahi 78 Maori Creek 54 Marlborough 88 Marsden 27 Martinborough 178 Maungatua 490 Melton West 100 Mercer 212 Merchiston 86 Mokihinui 18 Mongonui 198 Morrinsville 115 Mossburn 108 Murchison 51 Newbury 9 Newcastle 51 Ngapara 126 Notown 78 Oamaru South 828 Oban (Stewart Island) 84 Oban (Peninsula Co.) 17 Ohoka 878 Okarito 51 Ophir 212 Oraka 110 Orniond 246 Oruna 80 Otahuhu 971 Oxford (Ashley Co.)... 496 Oxford (Piako Co.) ... 48 Paeroa 199 Pahiatua 307 Paihi 26 Panmure 842 Parawai ... 526 Patutahi ... 218 Peebles 17 Pembroke ... 165 Pleasant Point ... 490 Pokeno ... 400 Pounamu 79 Pukekohe ... 920 Pukerau ... 180 Raglan 56 Rakaia ... 890 Redwood 59 Reefton ... 1,102 Reidston 84 Renwick ... 258 Reynoldstown 38 Richmond ... 509 Rimu ... 144 Roseland ... 158 Rotherham ... 128 Rotorua ... 170 Russell ... 256 Sanson ... 200 Seatown 51 Sefton ... 276 Selwyn 72 Shaftesbury ... 184 Sheil Hill 97 Stafford ... 199 St. Andrew's ... 122 St. Bathan's ... 196 Tapu 89 Taradale ... 414 Taylorville ... 605 Te Aroha ... 692 Thornbury ... 110 Tikorangi 21 Tokatoka 80 Tologa Bay 82 Taukau ... 104 Waianiwa ... 127 Waiau ... ... 185 Waihola ... 245 Waikaka 48 Waikaia ... 210 Waikari ... 196 Waimangaroa ... 395 Waimatuku 16 Waiorongomai ... 284 Waipahi 77 Waipori 80 Waitakerei 86 Waitekauri 52 Waitotara 90 Wallacetown ... 116 Warrington 21 Waterford 57 Waverley 56 Weston... ... 126 Whakatane 80 Winchester 82 Windsor 88 Winton East 97 Woodend ... 507 Woodtield 75 Woodside 44 TO NEW ZEALAND. 289 Most of these towns and town districts might be more properly described as villages, the population being classed rather as rural than urban. The majority, however—if not all—of the towns and many of the town districts have been laid off for future occupation by a more truly towtfig^Upfation, and doubtless, with the growth of population, many will increase considerably in importance, although the tendency of railway communication is rather to increase the population of the larger centres, but to decrease the commercial and business importance of smaller towns, and thus retard their growth. Even the population of all the boroughs cannot fairly be classed as urban, for in many cases the size of the borough is very great compared with the population, a large number of the inhabitants being engaged in rural mining pursuits. The following list contains some illustrations in which the area is disproportionately large for the population compared with the smaller areas and larger populations of other more populous boroughs also mentioned. AREA (ACRES). POPULATION Auckland . ... 1,718 33,161 Parnell 480 4,672 Thames 4,863 4,444 Patea 2,438 788 Feilding 3,500 1,297 Wellington 1,100 25,945 Masterton 4,811 8,160 Greytown 8,907 1,105 Napier ... 879 7,680 Ross 4,196 1,054 Christchurch 1,062 15,265 Sydenham 1,100 9,465 Oamaru 1,111 5,830 Dunedin 1,400 23,248 8,221 North-east Valley 3,980 Maori Hill 3,700 1,888 Dunedin South 418 3,902 Invercargill South 4,000 1,440 T 292 brett's handy guide The leases of pastoral land, either as small runs or runs, are put up to auction at upset rentals of from ljd. per acre to 1s. or more, accord- ing to value, and after being once offered by auction without sale, they may be open for application at the upset rent. CONDITIONS OF PURCHASE. If for cash immediate payment of one-fifth and the remaining four- fifths within thirty days after the time of sale. There are no further obligations on the purchaser. If on deferred payments, the price is paid in twenty-eight equal instalments, payable one each on the first of January and July of each year for the fourteen years. There are also conditions of residence and improvements. Residence on the land by the purchaser must begin within six months of issue of licence and continue for six years, but under certain conditions this can be shortened, and in the case of land wholly or mostly covered with forest may be dispensed with altogether. IMPROVEMENTS. Rural: First-Class.—If open land, must bring into cultivation not less than one-twentieth the first year, one-tenth the second year, and within four years must have cultivated one-fifth, and within six years, in addition to the cultivation of one-fifth, have effected permanent improvements to the value of £1 per acre, or the whole of the improve- ments may be effected at any time and the title obtained. The term "substantial improvements of a permanent character" means and includes expiration from swamps, clearing of bush or scrub, cultivation, planting with trees or live hedges.the laying out and cultivation of gardens, fencing, draining, making roads, sinking wells or watertanks, constructing water-races, or in any way improving the character or fer- tility of the soil, or the erection of any building. This definition of the term improvements applies to all classes of land where improvements are required by the Crown as part of the contract. "Cultivation" means the clearing of land for cropping, or clearing and laying down with artificial grasses. Rural: Second-class.—Must effect substantial im- provements to the value equal to ten per cent, of the value of the land within one year from the date of the licence, another ten per cent, within the second year, and a third ten per cent, before the end of the sixth year; if on perpetual lease, as already stated, the rent is five per cent, on the purchase money. The conditions of residence and im- provements are in all respects the same as are required on deferred payments. This system offers peculiar advantages to the settler of limited means, as it allows the whole of the purchase money to remain at interest at five per cent., and leaves his capital free to improve the land. No person on any of these conditions of purchase can acquire in the whole a greater area than 2,640 acres in all. Further informa- tion regarding the Crown lands, and the blocks open at the time for sale or selection, will be found in the Crown Lands Guide, copies of which can be obtained from the Agent-General of New Zealand, at 7, Westminster Chambers, Victoria Street, London. (Signed) G. F. RICHARDSON, Minister of Lands. 296 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE METEOROLOGICAL Comparative Table of Climate, as observed at the STATIONS. Atmospheric Pressure. (Reduced and corrected.) Temperature from Self-registering Instruments. 3 a Temperature of Air in Shade. Solar Radiation. v - SQ Terrestrial Radiation. Wellington Lincoln (Canterbury). Dunedin In. 30046 30 0.H0 29931 80-590 29-230 July I July 8 I 19 In. I In. 1-360 80-650 29-250 July Sept. 3 5 30-579 April 27 30-765 April 27 30-567 April 15 Fah. 596 28-909 1 1-670 Sept.I 4 29 098 I 1-672 Sept. 28-595 Feb. 5 52-9 Fah. Fah 81-5 850 Jan. Aug 17 18 88-5 220 Jan. Aug 12, 13 28 Fah 46-5 Fah. Fall. 12-6 1470 Feb. 28 146-5 Jan. 11,29 Fah. 121-5 83 0 I 31 0 52-0 Jan. , Aug. 26 I 25 92 0 ' 25 0 F"eb. Junel 1 , 18 1 92 0 30 0 Jan. Junel 5 July 2" Aug 24 67 II 62 11 150-0 Dec. 18 17-8 I 162-0 Feb. 15-5 1 147 0 i Jan. 20 1140 1 23 0 12-5 Aug.I 25 116-6 1 200 June 100-4 Meteorological Office, Colonial Museum, Wellington, N.Z. * Eleven months only TO NEW ZEALAND. 297 TABLE. Meteorological Stations in New Zealand, during 1887. Computed from Observations. Rain. Wind. ^loud Mean. numbkk of Days. iour for Mean Temperature of Dew-point for Year. Satura- h Rain i in any id Date. Number of days it blew from , £ any point. Morning Observations. x ; in any d Date. Mean Elastic Force of Var. Year. u Number of Days on whic fell in the Year. Maximum Rainfall recordei 24 Hours during Year' ar Mean Velocity in Miles in 2. for Year. Maximum Velocity in Miles 24 hours during Year' an > Total Rainfall for Year. ../. -J K 0 = Clear Sky. 10 = Overcast. .5 — K Earthquakes. a II Xc a-S u O Thunder. S.W. N.W. Calm. (0 Snow. Hail. rt N.E. S.E. £ ai ~ O Fog. In. Fah. s In. Dys In. S5 a t/j •418 527 78 37 710 181 1-870 June 19 35 88 12 19 68 88 38 27 0 112 788 April 29 6-4 19 7 0 1 II 0 -814 45-4 78 53-550 148 2-440 June 71 :il 15 85 78 77 6 10 44 5-7 8 5 1 1 1 fj 8 -847 48-3 79 56969 188 2-350 Oct. 11 25 28 9 97 28 21 5 182 80 228 750 Dec. 26 41 72 9 4 9 9 11 -293 48-9 78 3 - 90 149 2-319 29 lilt 8 9 10 126 6 20 58 254 720 July 20 6-2 2:1 9 9 9 18 0 Jul! 20 -286 43'i 78 89-144 174 2760 June 16 9 93 13 28 16 99 38 18 61 182 570 May 10 5-5 17 2 6 9 7 0 James Hector, Inspector. 2g8 brett's handy guide N.Z. POSTAL INFORMATION. RATES OF POSTAGE. Prepayment of Postage can only be effected by means of Postage Stamps. Letters. Packets. Parcels. PLACES. Not exceeding ^ oz. Every additional £ oz. Not exceeding loz. Not exceeding 2 ozs. Every additional 2 ozs. Not exceeding 1 lb. Every additional lib. Newspapers. Hansard. Each Each New Zealand: Town Let- s.d. s.d. s.d s.d s.d. s.d s.d. d. d. ters, viz., letters for delivery from the Post * t Office at which posted.. 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 7 0 3 1 Free New Zealand: Letters for delivery from any other Post Office than that at t which posted 0 2 0 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 7 0 3 i Free Australian Colonies, Fiji, Samoa, and South Sea Islands 0 2 0 2 0 1 0 2 0 2 l 1 United Kingdom via San Francisco 0 0 0 6 0 1 0 i 0 2 l 1 United Kingdom via direct packets 0 6 0 6 0 1 0 2 0 2 l 1 United Kingdom via Brin- disi or Naples 1 0 1 0 0 3 0 3 0 8 2 United States of America, Honolulu, Canada, etc. . 0 G 0 G 0 1 0 2 0 2 1 1 * Packets exceeding 12 ounces in weight may be sent under the parcels rates. f If enclosed in the authorised wrapper TO NEW ZEALAND. 2gg MONEY ORDERS. Money Orders are issued at the places indicated in the ABC Guide, between the hours of 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., except on Saturdays, when the offices are not closed before 5 p.m. The Money Order Office at Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin, and Wellington, close at 2 p.m. on Saturdays. By Post. For Sums. Not exceeding £1 From £1 to £2 .. 2 „ 8 .. 3 „ 4 .. 4 ,, 5 . 5 „ 6 . 6 „ 7 . 7 ,, 8 . 8 „ 9 . 9 ,, 10 . For Money Orders Payable in New Zealand. United Kingdom. United States and Canada. Australia and Tasmania. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. 0 6 1 0 1 6 1 0 0 6 1 0 1 6 1 0 0 6 2 0 2 6 1 0 0 6 2 0 2 6 1 0 0 6 3 0 3 6 1 0 1 0 3 0 3 6 2 0 1 0 4 0 4 6 2 0 1 0 4 0 4 6 2 0 1 0 5 0 5 6 2 0 1 0 5 0 5 6 2 0 By Telegraph. For every £1 or fraction of £1, 4d. and a telegraph fee of 1s. for each order. POSTAL NOTES. Postal Notes for fixed sums from 1s. up to £1 are now issued and paid at all Money Order Offices in New Zealand. The following are the amounts for which Postal Notes are issued, together with the poundage payable in respect of each Note :— Amount of Note. Poundage. Amount of Note. Poundage. s. d. d. s. d. d. 10 J 10 0 3 16 4 12 6 8 2 6 l 15 0 8 5 0 14 17 6 8 7 6 2 20 0 8 Broken amounts may be made up by the use of postage stamps, not exceeding 5d. in value, affixed to the back of any one Postal Note. 300 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE INLAND PARCELS POST. REGULATIONS. Posting and Labelling.—In order that a parcel may go by Parcels Post, it must be handed in at a Post Office counter or delivery window, and the postage due prepaid. The words " Parcels Post" should be written on the parcel, or on the label to be obtained from the Post Office for affixing to the parcel. Rates of Postage and Weight.—The rates of postage for a parcel are:— s, d. Not exceeding 1 lb. in weight 0 7 Exceeding 1 lb. but not exceeding 2 lbs. 0 10 2 lbs. 3 lbs. 11 3 lbs. 4 lbs. 14 4 lbs. 5 lbs. 17 5 lbs. 6 lbs. 1 10 6 lbs. 7 lbs. 2 1 7 lbs. 8 lbs. 2 4 8 lbs. 9 lbs. 2 7 9 lbs. 10 lbs. 2 10 10 lbs. 11 lbs. 3 1 No parcel exceeding 11 lbs. in weight, or the dimensions hereafter specified, will be accepted; and unpaid or insufficiently prepaid parcels will be refused. Size.—The dimensions allowed for a parcel are :—Greatest length, 3 ft. 6 in. ; greatest length and girth combined, 6 ft. For example: A parcel measuring 3 ft. 6 in. in length, may measure as much as 2 ft. 6 in. in girth. A shorter parcel may be thicker; thus, if it measure only 3 ft. in length, it may be 3 ft. in girth round its thickest part. The weights and dimensions given above apply only to parcels for places served by railway, coach, or steamboat. For Places not Served by Railway, Coach, or Steamer.— To all places not served by railway, coach, or steamer, only parcels not exceeding 5 lbs. in weight, and not measuring more than 2 ft. in length, or 1 ft. in breadth or depth, may be accepted, and provided they are not of such a fragile nature as to prevent their being sent with safety in the ordinary mail bag. Must be Prepaid.—The full postage must be prepaid by ordi- nary postage stamps, which must be affixed by the sender or the person handing in the parcel. TARIFF RATES IN NEW ZEALAND. Ordinary Telegrams, From any station to any station :— For the first ten words For every additional word Address and signature free up to 10 words, the above rates. s. d. 10 0 1 On Sundays, double TO NEW ZEALAND. 301 Postage stamps are to be used for payment, and when the rates are prepaid the sender should affix the stamps on the right hand top corner of the message form in the space provided for the stamps. Telegraph forms and envelopes, having the words (printed in red) "Telegram transmission to the Officers in charge of Telegraph Station ," can be procured at Post Offices in towns where there is no Telegraph Station. Urgent Telegrams. Telegrams marked Urgent are received at any Telegraph Office and transmitted in the order of their priority with other messages of the like code. Urgent Telegrams take precedence of all ordinary messages. The fee for an Urgent Telegram is double that for an Ordinary Telegram. All Ordinary Telegrams lodged at any Telegraph Station after 8 p.m. are treated as Urgent, and charged for accordingly. Urgent Telegrams lodged on Sunday are charged four rates. When the sender of an Urgent Telegram desires to pay for an Urgent Reply, the words Urgent, reply-paid Urgent must be inserted in the instructions. When the reply required is not to be Urgent the instruction should be Urgent, reply-paid only. « Delayed Telegrams. Delayed Telegrams are received at and forwarded from any Telegraph Office in the Colony, final delivery to the address given being effected by post. When re-addressed the usual inland postage to be charged. Delayed Telegrams are not received on Sunday. These telegrams will continue to be subject to delays whenever the wires are occupied with ordinary and other messages which have a prior right to transmission. After receipt at the Telegraph Offices to which they are addressed, every Delayed Telegram will immediately be posted, and then delivered either over the public counter, through private boxes, or by first delivery by letter-carrier. Senders of Delayed Telegrams are requested to give as full address as possible. Delayed Telegrams cannot be made "reply-paid," but may be made " repetition-paid." Tariff.—Delayed Telegrams for delivery within the Colony, with the word " delayed " inserted under the head of " instructions," will be sent at the following rates, which in all cases must be prepaid :— s. d. For the first ten words, exclusive of address and signature, up to ten words .. .. 0 6 For every additional word .. .. .. 0 0J If any sum payable shall include the fraction of a penny, then one penny shall be payable in lieu of such fraction. TO NEW ZEALAND. 305 OATS. The aggregate produce of the Colony during the year ended February, 1888, was 10,512,119 bushels. The estimated average yield of other produce for the same year, 1888, for the whole Colony was,— Oats .. .. .. 3124 bushels per acre. Barley 2726 Potatoes .. .. .. 5 45 ,, ,, MINERALS. Gold.—The value of gold exported during the year ended 31st March, 1888, was .. .. £762,877 The total value of gold exported to 31st March, 1888, was 44,251,612 During the year ended 31st March, 1888, there were 11,720 men employed in gold-mining in the Colony. Coal —The output of coal in 1878 was .. .. 162,218 tons. During the year ended 31st December, 1887, the quantity of coal raised in New Zealand was 558,620 tons. The approximate total output of coal in New Zealand, up to the 31st December, 1888, was 4,618,937 tons. The imports of coal into New Zealand were— In 1878 174,148 tons. For the year ended the 31st December, 1887 107,230 tons. And during the same year 44,129 tons were exported. During the year ended 31st December, 1887, there were 126 work- ing coal-mines in the colony, employing 1,499 men. PASTORAL PURSUITS. The mildness of the winter season (which does not require that any special provision for the keep of stock during that period should be made), the general suitability of the country for graz- ing purposes, and the production of a superior class of wool, caused the attention of the first settlers to be much given to pastoral pursuits, so that at a very early date all grass lands were taken up as sheep or cattle runs. The success attending the pursuit enabled the run-holders to a large extent to purchase the freehold of their runs, or the best portions of them; and by the improvements in fencing and sowing vith English grasses, which U 3o6 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE thrive remarkably well in the Colony, the bearing capabilities of the land were increased many-fold. While in the North Island there are considerable tracts of grazing ground with natural herbage, a large extent of the country consists of hill land of varying quality, covered with forest, or bush as it is called in the Colony. This land, after the bush has been cut down and set fire to, if grass seed be sown upon the ashes, is converted in a few weeks into good grazing land. Much forest has already been destroyed in this manner, and the land supports large flocks and herds; and the same system will doubtless be extensively followed, as a large portion of country that would be so used is no^ available for agricultural pursuits. In the South Island the bush is chiefly confined to the western slopes of the dividing range; the open hills, plains, and downs to the east of the range being available for grazing purposes. The extent to which pastoral pursuits have been followed may be estimated by the quantity of stock in the Colony in 1886 (when the census was last taken). The numbers of the undermentioned kinds were as follows:— Horses 187,382 Cattle 853,358 Sheep (on 31st May, 1888) .. .. 15,040,000 These numbers do not include the animals in the possession of aborigi- nal natives, no estimate of which can be given; while, however, possessing a considerable number of horses, they own but small numbers of sheep and cattle. WOOL. Wool is, undoubtedly, the most important production of New Zealand, its value in export approaching nearly treble that of gold. Wool is divided into two classes, combing wool and clothing wool; from which are produced the two leading kinds of manufacture in the cloth trade—viz., worsted and woollen goods. The first comprises the long-stapled wools of the Lincoln, Leicester, Cotswold, and Romney Marsh breeds of English sheep. They are required for worsted goods, and, when combed, for bombazines, camlet, etc. This is a class of wool for the production of which the soil and climate of New Zealand are very suitable. The long-woolled sheep of Great Britain improve by the change ; the length of the wool is increased, and all its valuable properties preserved, owing doubtless to the genial climate and absence of exposure to the extremes of an English temperature. The Leicester breed has received great attention in New Zealand, and is the favourite with the Auckland sheep-farmers. The Cotswold is a wool very similar to the Leicester, but of a somewhat deeper and harsher character, and lacks the '' lustre'' so much in demand for certain classes of manufactured goods. The Cotswold appears quite as much in favour with the New Zealand breeder as the Leicester, and probably its habits and character are more generally TO NEW ZEALAND. 307 adapted to the climate of the South Island and the mountain pastures of the Colony than any other long-woolled sheep. The Cotswold bears exposure better than the Lincoln or Leicester, will live and thrive on poor land, and come to more weight of carcass than any other breed. The value of this breed as a cross with either Leicester or short- woolled sheep cannot be too much spoken of, and the favour in which crosses with the Cotswold are held is a sufficient proof of their excellence. The Romney Marsh partakes in a measure of the qualities of the Leicester and Lincoln, being a soft, rich, and good handling wool, rather finer in quality than the Leicester, and having the glossy or "lustre" appearance of the Lincoln. Wool of this description is much in demand for certain fabrics, and is much sought in the French markets. The Cheviot is a wool that has grown into considerable popularity of late years, and is largely used in the worsted manufacture. It is a small fine-haired wool, of medium length and moderate weight of fleece. The second kind or clothing wool comprises the short-stapled wool grown by the Southdown and Shropshire Down breeds of English sheep, and the Merino (Spanish) sheep, from which are manufactured woollen goods, including broadcloths and fancy kinds. The Southdown is a short-stapled fine-haired close-growing wool, used chiefly for clothing purposes. The value of this breed to New Zealand sheep-farmers consists mainly in the improvements which crossing with it imparts to the carcass. Some breeders have crossed the Southdown with the Merino, and with cross-bred Romney Marsh and Merino. The Shropshire Down is a breed which is growing every year into more importance. It produces a wool longer in the staple and more lustrous than any other Down breeds. It has been cultivated in New Zealand to a small extent only. The Merino is the most valuable and important breed cultivated in New Zealand, and of sheep of this class the flocks of the Colony are chiefly composed; they are of the Australian Merino variety, improved through the importation of pure Saxon Merino rams from Germany. The excellence of the Merino consists in the unexampled fineness and felting property of its wool, which in fineness and the number of serrations and curves exceeds that of any other sheep in the world. Fine Saxon Merino wool has 2,720 serrations to an inch, Merino wool 2,400, Southdown wool 2,000, and Leicester 1,850. These figures represent the felting properties of the various wools. The Merinos adapt themselves to and thrive in every change of climate, and, with common care, retain all their fineness of wool as well under a burning tropical sun as in cold mountain regions. In New Zealand the length of staple and weight of fleeces have been increased, without any deterioration in the quality of the wool. Hitherto the weaving industry in New Zealand has been confined to tweeds, plaiding, and blankets, and various woollen underclothing, but recently the manufacture of worsted has been entered upon. The value of wool exported in 1887 amounted to £3,321,074. 3" goods, £579.S59. Up to 31st March, 1888, the General Government had expended on railway construction, and had incurred liabilities for same purpose amounting in all to ^14,728,282. There are also in addition to the Government lines several private railways as follows :— Kaitangata Rail and Coal Company—Kaitangata to Stirling, length four miles. Shag Point Railway Company—Junction to Shag Point, four miles. Wairio to Nightcaps coal mine, two miles. Wellington- Manawatu Railway, eighty-four miles. THE PRINCIPAL FERNS OF NEW ZEALAND. Maiden-hair genus (Adiantum) includes a considerable number of handsome species easily cultivated, and most of them confined to North Island. Adiantum vEthiopicum is the one most generally seen in cultivation, and very closely resembles the well-known English species frequently grown in hanging baskets. Other important ones are: A. affine; A. diaphanum; A. formosum; A. fulvum; A. hispidulum. Chiefly in North Island, but partly in north of South Island also. Shield Fern genus (Aspidium) contains eight species, the most abundant of which are A. aculeatum, capense, richardii, generally found in forest districts throughout both islands. The Spleenwort genus (Aspleneum) contains nine species; the one most generally seen is A. bulbiferum, which is remarkable for the young ferns growing from small bulbs on the edges of the fronds. Other well-known species are: A. obtusatum, common on sea-shore all round New Zealand; A. flaccidum, often seen pendant from branches of forest trees. Of tree ferns there are four genera: Cyathea, which includes the silver tree fern, black tree fern, and two others not so commonly seen; Dicksonia, which has three species, the commonest being the well-known weke paunga, plentiful all through the islands, and the fine Dicksonia Antartica, which has the most massive trunk of all our tree ferns ; two other genera, Hemitelia and Alsophila, each have one species, and are confined to hilly or mountainous districts. The Umbrella Ferns genus (Gleichenia) have five species; one is confined to neighbourhood of Hot Springs, G. dichotoma; another, G. flabilata, is confined to extreme north of North Island. The other three are widely disturbed throughout the Colony; one of them, G. dicarpa, being found everywhere in open gullies in clay soil. The Filmy Fern genus (Hymenophyllum) contains nineteen species, some of them being perhaps the most beautiful in New Zealand. They are usually found on trees in the recesses of the forest, smaller kinds often clothing the trunks of the large tree ferns from base to summit. Although found generally throughout the Colony, in no parts are they so abundant as in west coast of South Island. Those most worthy of notice are H. dilatatum, pulcherrimum, demmissum, and scabrum. 314 BRETT'S HANDY GUIDE. Leave Tarawera, Fridays, at 6.30 a.m.; arrive Napier, Fridays, at 5 p.m. Leave Napier for Taupo, Mondays, at 6.30 a.m.; arrive Tarawera, Mondays, at 5 p.m.; arrive Taupo, Tuesdays, at 5 p.m. Leave Taupo for Rotorua, Thursdays, at 6.30 a.m.; arrive Rotorua, Thursdays, about 5 p.m. Leave Rotorua for Taupo, Wednesdays, at 6.30 a.m.; arrive Taupo, Wednesdays,.about 5 p.m. PETERS & SONS —Napier to Woodville, train, at 7.20ia.m., arriving 1.45 p.m. Leave Woodville for Palmerston North, daily, at 2.30 p.m.; arrive Palmerston, daily, at 4.45 p.m.; Palmerston to Well, train at 5.15 p.m.; Well, to Palmerston North, train arrives at 11.45 a.m. Leave Palmerston North for Woodville, daily, at 12 noon; arrive Woodville, daily, at 2 p.m.; Woodville to Napier, train at 2.40 p.m. MACARAS'.—Wellington to Eketahuna, train, daily, at 7.15 a.m. Leave Eketahuna for Woodville, coach, daily, at 1.45 p.m.; arrive Woodville, daily, at 6 p.m.; Woodville to Napier, train, 6.40 a.m. and 2.40 p.m.; arrive 1.17 and 8.45 p.m.; Napier to Woodville, train, at 7.20 a.m. and 3 p.m. Leave Woodville for Eketahuna, daily, at 8.30 a.m.; arrive Eketahuna, daily, at 1 p.m.; Eketahuna to Welling- ton, train, at 2 p.m. HALL'S.—(Wellington to Nelson, steamer, Mondays and Thurs- days.)*—Leave Nelson for Reefton, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; arrive Reefton, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Leave Reefton for Greymouth, Saturdays and Mondays; arrive Greymouth, Saturdays and Mondays. Leave Greymouth for Reefton, Thursdays and Mondays or Tuesdays. Leave Reefton for Nelson, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; arrive Nelson, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. (Steamers leave Nelson for Wellington, Tuesdays and Thursdays.) NEWMAN & CO.'S—Leave Blenheim for Havelock and Nelson, Mondays and Fridays, at 6.45 a.m.; arrive Nelson (seventy-four miles), Mondays and Fridays, at 6 p.m. Leave Nelson for Havelock and Blenheim, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 7 a.m.; arrive Blenheim, Tuesday and Saturdays, at 6 p.m. Leave Blenheim for Havelock only, Wednesdays, at 1 p.m. Leave Havelock for Blenheim, Thursdays, at 9 a.m. COOPER'S.—(Christchurch to Culverden, train, daily, at 7.35 a.m.; arrive 12.35 p.m.)—Leave Culverden for Hanmer Plains, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 1 p.m.; arrive Hanmer Plains, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 4 p.m. Leave Hanmer Plains for Culverden, Tuesdays and Thursdays, at 9.15 a.m.; arrive Culverden, Tuesdays and Thurs- days, about 12.30 p.m. (Culverden to Christchurch, train, daily, at 2 30 p.m.; arrive 7.20 p.m.) CASSIDY, BINNIE & CO.'S (COBB & CO.'S).—(Christchurch to Springfield, by train, 7.20 a.m.; arriving at 11.5 a.m.)—Leave Springfield for Hokitika, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 12 noon; arrive Bealey, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 7.30 p.m. Leave Bealey, Wednesdays and Saturdays, at 5 a.m.; arrive Otira Hotel, Wednesdays and Satur- days, at 8 a.m.; Jackson's Hotel, at 10 a.m.; Taupo, at 11.30 a.m.; * Not to be depended upon for catching or awaiting coach. TO NEW ZEALAND. Kumara, at 2.30p.m.; Hokitika, at 5 p.m. Leave Hokitika and Kumara for Springfield, Tuesdays and Fridays. •MOUNT COOK COACHING CO.'S—(Leave Timaru to Fairlie Creek, train, daily, at 4 p.m.; arriving at 6.45 p.m.)—Leave Fairlie Creek for Hermitage, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 8 a.m.; arrive Pukaki (vid Tekapo), Tuesdays and Fridays, at 5.30 p.m. Leave Pukaki, Wednesdays and Saturdays, at 8 a.m.; arrive Hermitage, Wednesdays and Saturdays, at 4 p.m. Leave Hermitage for Fairlie Creek, Mondays and Thursdays, at 8 a.m.; arrive Pukaki, Mondays and Thursdays, at 4 p.m. Leave Pukaki, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 7.30 a.m.; arrive Fairlie Creek (vid Tekapo), Tuesdays and Fridays, at G p.m. * Bi-weekly service, as above, during summer months only. H. CRAIG 8c CO*. S —Palmerston and Clyde (vid Waihemo and Naseby).—Leave Palmerston for Naseby, Mondays and Fridays, at 10.45 a.m. ; arrive Naseby, Mondays and Fridays, at 7 p.m. Leave Naseby for Clyde, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 0.30 a.m.; arrive Clyde, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 6.30 p.m. Leave Clyde for Naseby, Mondays and Fridays, at 6 a.m.; arrive Naseby, Mondays and Fridays, at 6 p.m. Leave Naseby for Palmerston, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 7 a.m.; arrive Palmerston, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 3.30 p.m. Palmerston and Naseby (vid Macraes and Hyde).—Leave Palmerston for Naseby, Wednesdays, at 10.45 a.m.; arrive Naseby, Wednesdays, at 8 p.m. Leave Naseby for Palmerston, Thursdays, at 7 a.m. ; arrive Palmerston, Thursdays, at 4.30 p.m. Lawrence, Cromwell, and Queenstown.—Leave Lawrence for Roxsburg, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 1 p.m.; arrive Roxsburg, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 7 p.m. Leave Roxsburg for Queenstown, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 5 a.m.; arrive Cromwell (stay half-an- hour), Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 12 noon; arrive Queens- town, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 7 p.m. Leave Queenstown for Roxsburg, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 5 a.m.; arrive Cromwell (stay half-an-hour), Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 12 noon; arrive Roxsburg, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 7.30 p.m. Leave Roxsburg for Lawrence, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 8 a.m.; arrive Lawrence, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 1.45 p.m. Queenstown and Pem- broke (Wanaka).—Leave Queenstown for Pembroke, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 9 a.m.; arrive Pembroke, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 5 p.m. Leave Pembroke for Queenstown, Mondays and Thursdays, at 9 a.m.; arrive Queenstown, Mondays and Thursdays, at 5 p.m. Crom- well and Pembroke (Wanaka).—Leave Cromwell for Pembroke, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 12.30 p.m.; arrive Pembroke, Tuesdays and Saturdays, at 7 p.m. Leave Pembroke for Cromwell, Mondays and Thursdays, at 4 a.m. and 10 a.m.; arrive Cromwell, Mondays and Thursdays, at 11.45 a.m. and 5 p.m. WILLIAM PATTERSON'S —Leave Lumsden for Te Anau on Wednesdays, at 5.30 a.m.; arrive Mossburn, Wednesdays, at 7.20 a.m.; arrive Te Anau (sixty miles), Wednesdays, at 7.30 p.m. Leave Te Anau for Lumsden, Mondays, at 5.30 a.m.; arrive Lumsden, Mondays, at 7.30 p.m. UNION STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S ITINERARY. SUMMER SERVICES. I'M Pi" pu^i •jSBii reloads ::::::: ::c eg :::::::: fee/) wwsi ... ... Fri." Satur. Sun. Sun. Mon. Tues. We'd. •n-BJiniiEiv Tues. \V« d. Thur. Thur. Fri. Fri. Satur. ... •[EUIOIODJ9JUI Thur. Tues. Thur. Fri. Satur. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed.1 Thur. Fri. Tues. 1 Thur. Sydney to Mel- bourne' and New Zealand Coastal. Napikr Gkkvmouth . Wellington Wellington IfYTTELTON .. Akaroa Bluff Hobart* Melbourne . Sydney Russell Auckland Auckland GlSBORNE Manukau Takanaki Oamarut Nelson PlCTON TlMARU DUNEDIN DUNEDIN -pu^i ->pny puB uoj -uospM pUB UOlpllX'T -lBIUO[O0i3JUI - ° 3 = . 3 jl c C £ : 2 3 C O 3 t H = i I S :-g ,5,5-s£5 ft 1- CD — : 3 h Ui H n uirri t H a!? '£ft - 3 utSP 3 H 2 2 . . * I' SI: - z z z 0 I i goo ;=;3 7, y- - in addition to above there is a regular weekly service from Dunedin to Grey- mouth, vid Oamaru,-Timaru, Lyttelton, Wellington, Nelson, and vice versd; while there is almost daily communication between Wellington and West Coast ports, and a reeular service four times a week between Wellington and Blenheim. There are also fortnightly services from Dunedin to Sydney, vid Oainaru or Timaru, Lyttelton, Wellington, and Cook Strait, returning vid Wellington and Lyt- telton; a monthly service between Auckland and Fiji, and between Melbourne and Fiji; latter occasionally calling at Lord Howe, Norfolk Islands, and New Hebrides; while one of the Company's steamers plies regularly between various islands of the Fiji group and Tonga. INDEX. A PAGK Abolition of Provincial Districts [Chapter mil-] Part I. 89 Abbey Caves, Whangarei, Descriptive Part II. 54 Acreage under Cultivation in New Zealand Part VI. 298 Addison's Flat P*KT III. 149 Adelaide (Ports of Call) Part III. 229 Ahaura Part h1- 149 Akaroa (Prov. Canterbury), Saved from French [Chapter ii.] Part I. 30 Akaroa (Prov. Canterbury), Settlement of ... [Chapter ii.I Part 1. 29 Akaroa (Prov. Canterbury) Part III. 149 Akaroa (Prov. Canterbury), Health Resort Part IV. 239 Albany (Ports of Call) Part III. 229 Alexandra ... Part III. 150 Alexandria (or Manuherikia) Part III. 150 Allegiance to Queen demanded [Chapter iii.] Part I. 36 Amberley (Prov. Canterbury) Part III. 150 Amberley (Prov. Canterbury), Health Resort Part IV. 289 Aorangi (or Mount Cook) Part III. 150 Aotea Part III. 150 Area of New Zealand Part VI. 291 Aratapu Part III. 151 Arawa Tribe, our Allies [Chapter iii.] Part I. 36 Arrowtown Part III. 151 Art of Colonisation [Chapter ii.] Part I. 27 Arikikapakapa Hot Springs. Medical Notes Part IV. 258 Ashburton Part III. 151 Atkinson in Power [Chapter iii.] Part I. 41 Auckland, Settlement of [Chapter ii.] Part I. 29 Auckland, Descriptive Part II. 43 Auckland Part III. 151 Auckland as Health Resort Part IV. 289 Avondale (Auckland Province) Part III. 154 B Balcairn Part III. 154 Balclutha Part III. 154 Bannockburn Part III. 155 Baring, Francis • [Chapter ii.] Part I. 28 Bay of Islands Part III. 155 Belgrove Part III. 155 Bendigo Part III. 155 Blacks Part III. 155 Blenheim, Descriptive Part II. 90 TO NEW ZEALAND. PAGE Normanby Part III. 198 Norsewood Part III. 198 Northern Sounds of New Zealand, Descriptive Part II. 87 o Oakura Ambuscade [Chapter iii.l Part I. 36 Oamaru Part III. 194 Oamaru, Health Resort Part IV. 241 Ohaewai, (or Ohaeawai) Part III. 194 Ohaewai (or Ohaeawai), Health Resort Part IV. 241 Ohaupo Part III. 195 Ohinemutu (or Rotorua) Part II. 62 Ohinemutu (or Rotorua) Part III. 195 Ohinemutu, Health Resort Part IV. 241 Ohiwa Part III. 196 Okoroire, Descriptive Part II. 59 Omaha PartIII. 196 Onehunga PartIII. 196 Onetapu (Prov. Auckland), Health Resort Part IV. 242 Onslow, Earl of, appointed Governor [Chapter iii.] Part I. 41 Opaki PartIII. 197 Opawa Part III. 197 Ophir PartIII. 197 Opotiki Part III. 197 Opunaki PartIII. 197 Orakei Korako (Prov. Auckland), Health Resort Part IV. 242 Orakau taken [Chapter iii.] Part I. 36 Orepuki PartIII. 197 Ormondville PartIII. 198 Otago, Settlement of [Chapter ii.] Part I. 29 Otahuhu PartIII. 198 Otaki PartIII. 198 Otautau Part III. 198 Otepopo (or Herbert) Part III. 198 Otira Gorge PartIII. 198 Outran Part III. 199 Oxford PartIII. 199 P Pahautanui PartIII. 199 Pahi, Te [Chapter i.] Part I. 18 Pahiatua Part II. (b.) 140 Pahiatua PartIII. 199 Palmerston North Part II. (b.) 189 Palmerston North Part III. 199 Palmerston South Part III. 199 Panmure PartIII. 200 Papakura PartIII. 200 Parnell ... PartIII. 200 326 brett's HANDY GUIDE PAGE Parua Bay (Prov. Auckland) Health Resort ... Part IV. 242 Parcels Post, Inland, Rates of Part VI. 80S Patea Part III. 200 Paterson's Inlet Part III. 200 Pembroke Part III. 201 Pembroke, Health Resort Part. IV. 242 Penrose Part III. 202 Petane Part III. 20B Petone Part III. 203 Picton, Descriptive Part II. 90 Picton Part III. 208 Ponsonby Part III. 203 Population Part VI. 284 Porangahau Part III. 208 Port Albert Part III. 204 Port Ahuriri Part III. 204 Port Chalmers Part III. 204 Port Nicholson, Settlement of [Chapter ii.] Part I. 28 Postal and Money Order Information Part VI. 398 Pourere Pah taken by McDonnell [Chapter iii.] Part I. 38 Poverty Bay [Chapter L] Part I. 18 Poverty Bay Massacre [Chapter iii.] Part I. 88 Power to Create New Provinces [Chapter iii.] Part I. 34 Pua Pah Captured [Chapter iii.] Part I. 87 Pukekohe Part III. 204 Puketakanere Pah, Forced Retreat of Major Nelson [Chapter iii.] Part I. 85 Puketapu Part III. 204 Puriri (Prov. Auckland), Health Resort Part IV. 242 Q Queen Charlotte Sound [Chapter i.] Part I. 18 Queen's Sovereignty Proclaimed [Chapter ii.] Part I. 29 Queenstown Part III. 204 Queenstown, Health Resort Part IV. 242 R Raglan Part III. 206 Rait, Table of Distances by Part V. 268 Railways Part VI. 810 Rangihaeata, The Chief [Chapter ii.] Part I. 81 Rakaia Part III. 206 Rangiora Part III. 206 Rangiriri Pah Captured [Chapter iii.] Part I. 36 Reefton Part III. 207 Riccarton Part III. 207 Richmond ... ... ... Part III. 207 Riverton Part III. 207 Riverton, Health Resort Part IV. 248 Riversdale Part III. 207 327 PAGE Road, Table of Distances by Part V 268 Robinson, Sir Hercules, appointed Governor [Chapter iii.] Part I. 41) Ropata, Major (Chapter iii. I Part I. 88 "Rosanna," Ship IChapterii.] Part I. 27 Ross Part III. 208 Rotorua, Thermal Springs District Part II. 62 Rotorua Part III. 20H Rotorua, Health Resort Part IV. 248 Rotorua, Medical Notes on Hot Springs Part IV. 247 Ruapehu Part II. (b.) 188 Ruapehu Part III. 208 Ruaparaha IChapterii.] Part I. 26 Ruaparaha, His Capture IChapterii.] Part I. 81 Ruapekapeka Pah, Capture of [Chapter ii.l Part I. 81 Ruatara [Chapter ii.] Part I. 25 Rusden, Historian, Damages recovered by Mr. Bryce [Chapter iii.] Part I. 40 Russell, Descriptive Part II. 4il Russell Part III. 208 s Saint Bathan's Part II. (b.) 146 Saint Bathan's Part III. 209 Sanson Part III. 209 Sea, Table of Distances by Part V. 262 Separation, Charter Granted New Zealand ... [Chapter ii-J Part I. 29 Sefton Part III. 209 Settlements of Otago and Canterbury. Distinctive Features IChapterii.] Part 1. 32 Shortland Part III. 209 Shortland, Lieut., R.N (Chapter ii.] Part I. 29 Skeleton Routes to New Zealand Part V. 257 Skeleton Routes in New Zealand Part V. 259 Sodom and Gomorrah, Descriptive Part II. 71 Southbridge Part III. 209 Southbrook ' Part III. 210 Southern Alps Part III. 210 Southern Lakes of New Zealand Part II. 104 South Rakaia Part III. 210 Southland, Settlers of (Chapter ii.] Part I. 80 Springfield Part II. (b.) 142 Springfield Part III. 210 Staaten Land [Chapter i.] Part I. 17 Stafford Part III. 210 Statistics Part VI. 284 Stewart Island Part III. 211 Stirling Part III. 211 "St. Jean Baptiste," Ship I Chapter i.] Part I. 18 St. John, Colonel, Operates against Uriweras [Chapter iii.] Part I. 38 TO NEW ZEALAND. 329 PAGK Thames Part III. 215 Thermal Springs, Government Information ... Part VI. Thornbury ... Part III. 215 Tikitere, Descriptive Part II. Tikitere, Health Resort Part VI. 24-1 Timaru (Prov. Canterbury) Part III. 215 Timaru (Prov. Canterbury), Health Resort ... Part IV. 244 Time Tables, Coaches Part VI. 818 Timii Part III. 215 Tinkers Part III. 215 Tohu, The Chief [Chapter iii.] Part I. 1(1 Tokomairiro (See Milton) Part III. 215 Tongariro Part III. 211: "Tory," Ship [Chapter ii.] Part I. 28 Tours in New Zealand (Cook's) Part V. 270 Tuamarina Part III. 21 (i Tuapeka Part III. 211 Turakina Part III. 216 u Union Steamship Company Introduction. Union Steamship Company's Time Table ... Part VI. 816 V Vegetation Part VI. ;m Vogel, Sir Julius, His Scheme [Chapter iii.] Part I. Volkner, Rev. C. S., Murdered at Opotiki ... [Chapter iii. I Part I. m w Waerenga-a-Hika Pah Captured [Chapter iii.J Part I. 87 Wahanui, Chief, presents Taihu (War Sceptre) in Token of Peace [Chapter iii.] Part I. 40 Waiau Part III. 210 Waihola (or Waihora) Part III. •21c Waikaia Part III. 21(1 Waikoaiti Part III. 216 Waimate Part III. 216 Waipawa Part III. 217 Waipu Part III. 217 Waipukurau Part III. -217 Wairakei, Descriptive Part II. 78 Wairakei, Health Resort Part IV. 244 Wairau Massacre [Chapter ii.] Part I. 80 Wairau Massacre Part II. 87 Waiorongomai Part III. 217 Waireka Pah, Carried by Storm, 1860 [Chapter iii.] Part I. 85 Wairoa (Hawke's Bay) Part III. 217 BRIEF MEDICAL NOTES FOR TRAVELLERS. The following notes are those given by a physician to a private patient about to travel extensively through various climes both tropical and northern, and in countries where no medical aid could be called. It is an old adage that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. This is not the case with those who are travelling and have some know- ledge of medicine, provided their knowledge is exercised with common sense. It is better to know that the application of mud will relieve the sting of an insect or a bee than not to know it. It is better to know that smoking stramonium leaves will relieve asthma, that Quinine will relieve ague, that Hazeline willstophsemorrhage, that Antipyrin will allay headache and neural- gia, and that Opium will relieve pain, than not to know these facts. It is to the injudicious administration of methods that the adage quoted applies.* Asthma.—A Vaporole of Chloroform will render the breathing easy with remarkable rapidity in cases of Asthma, but the relief will seldom be permanent. Sometimes a Trinitrine Tabloid will remove the difficult breathing. Inhaling the smoke from a burning piece of blotting paper which had been saturated in a strong solution of Nitre and dried is an effective measure. So is smoking Stramonium leaves. Chilblains.—Washing the feet every day and changing the socks every twenty-four hours, with frequent applications of Hazehne-Lanoline Ointment, or if on the hands Eucalyptia well rubbed in several times daily will usually suffice to prevent the trouble. Constipation.—This may be due to a deficiency of the normal secretions or to loss of tone in the muscular wall and intestines, or to both causes combined. In the former case it is evi- dent that some agent is required which increases the secretion, and it is equally apparent that in the latter case something is required to act * For the convenience of travellers the drugs mentioned in these short notes are compressed in the portable form known as "Tabloids," which are smaller and more easily swallowed than pills. When intended for local effect, as on the mouth or throat, they are compressed hard and dissolve slowly, while those for internal use disintegrate, dissolve and act nearly as promptly as a solution. The Tabloids of Quinine, for instance, dissolve in one or two minutes. upon the muscular coat of the bowel. Cascara Sagrada Tabloids affect both the secretions and the muscular walls, increasing the natural action without producing any evil after-effects. In chronic constipation it has frequently been found that the dose of the Cascara might be greatly reduced, and perfect health regained. Rhubarb and Magnesia Tabloids (from four to six) accentuate the normal functions of the bowel. The Vegetable Laxative Tabloids act upon the entire alimentary track and are free from mercurials. In the constipation of bilious or malarious subjects the Compound Cathartic Tabloids (two or three) are best. Coughs and Colds.—One of the most frequent affections from which travellers suffer is a cold. Varying climates, draughts, damp beds, and a changing diet contribute to its pro- duction. Many a cold, if treated properly, can be aborted as it is coming on. A good plan is to take two 5 grain Dover Powder " Tabloids," three 2 grain Soluble Quinine "Tabloids," and go to bed, taking care to be well covered. Profuse perspiration ensues, the mucuous membranes of the head, throat, and bronchi are dried, and if the person is careful, next day the cold may dis- appear. When it has settled upon the system the best plan is to remain in equable tempera- ture. When the cough is a dry one a two-minim Paregoric " Tabloid," taken every two or three hours, will tend to make it easier, while a few drops of Syrup of Ipecac, will loosen it. Steam inhalations are also most valuable at this stage. When the cough becomes loose, expectoration wHl be yellow, and then Chloride of Ammonium "Tabloids" (5 grains) will be of greatest ser- vice in helping to throw off the expectoration. We may say that for sore throat, quinsy, colds in the head and laryngitis, no one drug is so generally useful as Chlorate of Potash in Tabloids. The Voice Tabloids contain Chlorate of Potash, Borax and Cocaine, the action of the Cocaine being anodyne. We may add that the adminis- tration of the Dover Powder and Quinine as recommended above has been reported to have aborted pneumonia. In inflammation of the lungs, large flax seed poultices will give great comfort, and the administration of two grains of Quinine three times a day will be seen to be a sensible measure. Extreme care must be- taken not to get chilled. After the third or fourth day administration of stimulants is advisable. Pleurisy generally comes on with a stitch in the side and a dry cough, with some fever. The administration of three (5 grains) Antipyrin Tabloids will relieve the pain and reduce the Brief Medical Notes for Travellers—continued. be mentioned here that much more Opium can be taken with safety in inflammation of the bowels than would be possible under any other circumstances whatever. The food should be restricted—the milk, predigested with Fairchild's Peptonising Powders, may contain very little brandy. If there is considerable flatulence and eructations—and there is always more or less swelling of the abdomen in inflammation of the bowels—a sixth of a grain Tabloid of Calomel every'3o minutes for a few times will be indi- cated. As the pulse grows small and the vomit- ing of stercoraceous matters occur, it may be known that the end is drawing nigh. Few patients recover who have reached this point. The incident of costiveness need occasion no undue apprehension, as it will be safer to let the bowels alone for 10, 12, or even 14 days than attempt to move them. Kidneys, The.—From cold, excessive indulgence in alcoholic beverages, from turpen- tine, cantharides, nitre, etc., congestion of the kidneys is produced. The pain may be severe, but can be relieved by an eighth of a grain Tabloid of Morphine. Hot poultices should be applied over the loins. Mustard poultices over the kidneys are useful. The bowels should be freely acted upon, though it is usually advisable to administer Saline Cathartics, as they may in- crease the work the kidneys have to do. Castor Oil is safe and good. Laxative Tabloids are also suitable. Liver.—Congestion of the liver is not rare, especially in hot climates. It is well when it comes on to apply flannels wrung out of hot water, over the liver, and to administer five grains of Calomel, followed in about six hours by a couple of tablespoonfuls of Rochelle salts in a glass of warm water. If the patient has been given considerable mercury already, and is of a somewhat nervous type, a quarter grain Podo- phyllin Tabloid may be administered twice a day for two or three days. Gentle purgatives are best, and small doses of Calomel often work admirably. From the absence of bile the excreta are white, and under such circumstances the Chloride of Ammonium Tabloids, two or three a day, may restore the natural colour. Pain.—Pain atone time or another is the lot of probably everyone, and how to relieve pain is useful knowledge. So highly was opium prized aforetime for pain, that it was called " the gift of the gods "; but opium has its drawbacks, and only under exceptional circumstances should it be used by anyone but a doctor. Anti- pyrin, however, is most efficient in the relief of pain, and is infinitely safer than opium. It does not usually leave any unpleasant after-effects Moreover it is adapted to classes of cases in which opium would be positively harmful. In headache there is probably nothing like it. In rheumatism, as we have pointed out, it is most useful. In the most agonising forms of biliary and renal colic it is safe as well as effectual. In spasmodic conditions, like whooping cough, and in pleurisy, it has often acted well. It has con- trolled haemorrhage when iron had proved use- less. It is said to have aborted inflammation of the lungs, and is as powerful a febrifuge as we osslss. It has stopped sea-sickness. The dose of Antipyrin is from one to three (5 grains) Tabloids. Poisoning1.—In cases of poisoning a good rule is to give an emetic, except where substan- ces like corrosive acids have been taken, in which case an emetic would be useless. A tea- spoonful of mustard in a glass of warm water is a good emetic; 30 grains Sulphate of Zinc, 20 grains Sulphate of Copper, or four (5 grains) Ipecac. Tabloids (crushed in water), or a tenth of a grain Apomorphine Tabloid is a good emetic, and will clear the stomach. If then there is con- siderable depression, stimulants should be given. If the heart is weak the patient should be kept quiet. If opium has been given, the patient under no conditions whatever should be allowed to sleep; keep him awake at all hazards. Small doses of Belladonna in Opium poisoning help to save life. So does strong coffee, the cold douche, artificial respiration, etc. Rheumatism. — Among the fevers to which the traveller is liable is Rheumatic Fever. Six (5 grains) Soda Salicylate Tabloids in the course of twenty-four hours, will ordinarily break up the fever in about three days, but there is a great tendency to relapses. The patient should remain in bed, the whole body enveloped in either a flannel or Lawton's Absorbent Cotton. The danger in rheumatism is from getting chilled, constant chilling tending to produce disease of the heart. The greatest remedy in both acute and chronic rheumatism is Antipyrin. It relieves the pain, lowers the fever, and im- proves the condition generally. From three to six (5 grains) Tabloids may be required in twenty-four hours. Scurvy.—This is a disease which arises mainly from eating salt meat, and from an in- sufficiency of fruit. Milk, fresh meat and fruits are the cure. Skin Troubles.—Nettle rash, sunburns, shingles and irritating eruptions are the lot of many who indulge in fish, strawberries, etc. Half a teaspoonful of Cream of Tartar in a glass of water will act on the kidneys, and give the skin a chance to cure itself. A beautiful emollient application for the skin is Hazeline Ointment or Toilet Lanoline. Every traveller would do well to have some with him. Sleeplessness.—In sleeplessness from Malaria, Quinine is the thing; from congestion and over-excitement, two to four Bromide of Potassium Tabloids arc indicated ; from pain, a grain of Opium will answer. In nervous weak- ness, mental trouble, etc., five to ten (5 grains) Sulphonal Tabloids work like a charm. In the sleeplessness of mental disease 1/80 grain Tab- loid of Hyoscyamin will quiet the brain and induce sleep. Chloral in 10 grain doses is a splendid hypnotic for many nervous cases, but it should be administered with care, lest the choral habit be developed. Snake Bite.—Tie a bandage very tightly round the limb above the part bitten. Incise the bite and apply a Tabloid of Permanganate of Potash to the part. This will burn out and destroy the tissues bitten. Injections of Am- pATES OF: PASSAGE MONEY1 I - ;V i i..:' BY ALL ROUTES TO t » /( V AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND. fa ASH BY k So' HuetraUan & IFlew Zealanb Bgents, Licensed Passage Brokers & Shipping & Insurance Agents, 26 LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON, PASSAGES BOOKED TO ALL PARTS of the WORLD by all Lines of Steam and Sailing Vessels from London, Southampton, Liverpool or Glasgow. Rates of Passage Money to India, China, Japan,'and any other part of the World, may be ascertained on application to W^. Ashby & Co. , Consignments Received and Indents executed on the most favourable terms. 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